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This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. For non-personal use, please contact client relations at 1-866-831-4314 or email [email protected]. INSIDE — TIMELESS TRANQUILITY IN SPAIN’S BALEARIC ISLANDS + DISCOVERIES IN COLONIAL MEXICO FEBRUARY 2020 SINCE 1979 Traveling the world in search of truly enchanting places Infinity pool, Cugó Gran Menorca, Sant Climent Exploring Unspoiled Menorca Boutique hotels, historic towns, turquoise bays, deserted beaches, distinctive cuisine cattered across the Mediterranean, Formentera, the smallest island, attracts Connoisseurs of the Balearics insist 200 miles off the eastern coast of just a few knowledgeable travelers. Menorca has the best beaches, ranging SSpain, the four Balearic Islands — Now Menorca is shyly stepping into from sandy strands to intimate coves. Mallorca, Ibiza, Formentera and Menorca the spotlight. The quietest and most The 30-mile-long, 10-mile-wide island — possess very different personalities. authentically rural of the quartet, it is also a terrific destination for hikers Ibiza and Mallorca have been two of the has recently seen the opening of several and riders. The recently renovated Camí JAMES BEDFORD JAMES most popular vacation spots in Europe noteworthy hotels, along with a number de Cavalls, or Way of Horses, is a well- for decades. In contrast, tiny, wild of excellent restaurants. marked and -maintained 115-mile trail Hideaway Report editors travel anonymously and pay full rate for all lodging, meals and related expenses. Since the launch of the Hideaway Report in 1979, featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. For comments and inquiries, please email [email protected]. Harbor of Ciutadella de Menorca, and Cala Macarelleta, one of Menorca’s prettiest beaches that circles the island. Menorca is avidly an ideal place for a hotel project because Menorca Santa Ponsa on a golden Indian equestrian, with several stables that hire it seemed so much like the Mediterranean summer afternoon. (The best seasons in EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY out the native black Menorquín horses. of half a century ago. Shopping for an Menorca are May-June and September- The island was declared a Biosphere existing structure to convert, they found October.) The handsome manor house Reserve by UNESCO in 1993, which themselves unable to decide between a was set on a hillside surrounded by lush partially explains why it’s so pristine. 17th-century manor house called Santa Moorish-style gardens with trickling Development is strictly controlled, and Ponsa and Torre Vella, a fortified farm fountains, orange trees, jasmine vines and S’Albufera des Grau Natural Park, which nearby. So they bought both properties, blazes of bougainvillea. It was imposing includes five small islands, is home to which opened last year as 21-room and but seemed welcoming at the same time. prolific birdlife. 17-room hotels, respectively. After cold drinks on the terrace, the The island’s history informs its After a 25-minute drive from the general manager gave us a tour of the distinctive personality. Coveting the airport in Mahón, we arrived at Fontenille property, which has a variety of room huge natural harbor in Mahón, the British occupied the island for much of the 18th century. They expanded the port there, built roads and reservoirs, developed SPAIN BARCELONA the island’s agriculture and left behind 0 40 MI an enduring taste for gin, which is still 0 40 KM CALA MACARELLETA: MICHELE FALZONE / GETTY IMAGES made on the island at the Xoriguer distillery. The Georgian architecture of many houses in Mahón also bespeaks the former British presence. BALEARIC SEA MENORCA • • • • CIUTADELLA Nowadays, Menorca is more acces- MAHÓN sible due to an increased number of flights from major cities like Paris and MALLORCA Rome, and the island has caught the PALMA attention of trendsetting young hoteliers VALENCIA such as Guillaume Foucher and Frédéric Biousse, who first won a reputation with CIUTADELLA: MATTEO COLOMBO / GETTY IMAGES IBIZA MEDITERRANEAN their stunning Domaine de Fontenille in SEA Provence. The two Frenchmen fell in love FORMENTERA with the island and decided it would be 2 HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2020 types. Some accommodations are in the located a 10-minute drive to the south. Santa Ponsa and Torre Vella, the service original manor house; others are found This establishment has a very different was warm and friendly but often slow in adjacent outbuildings, including atmosphere, with a younger clientele that and sometimes imprecise. We trust that our Prestige Suite. This came with an is drawn to its minimalist décor, the work it will be better this summer, when the appealingly rustic décor that included of Miguel Jiménez Robertson, a designer staff have become more experienced. The stone floors and exposed wooden beams, well-known in Menorca for his stylish spa at Santa Ponsa will also open in 2020. plus a gray sofa, wicker wing chairs and renovations of old fincas (farmhouses). • • • • a built-in writing desk in a separate Even though the service was slow, living room. The spacious bath featured dinner on a balmy night in a courtyard We set off along country roads through handmade oyster-colored tiles, a soaking illuminated by candle lanterns was a timeless countryside interspersed with tub, a separate shower and a pair of sinks delightful experience. We enjoyed Jabugo pine forests and dotted with handsome set into a wooden counter. French doors ham and pimiento de Padrón (flash- stone farmhouses, many of which produce led to a small terrace. grilled green peppers from Galicia) to the orange-colored wheels of Mahón Having settled in, we explored the start, and then tucked into some delicious cow’s milk cheese, which is one of the grounds and took a dip in a plunge black rice with prawns and mussels, great cheeses of Spain. After a quick pool created from a former irrigation paired with a Chardonnay from Binifadet, swim in the turquoise waters of the reservoir. Afterward, sun loungers on Menorca’s largest winery. Platges de Cavalleria, one of the island’s grassy terraces invited us to spend a quiet The following morning, back at Santa best beaches, we drove out to the sturdy afternoon with a book. Most of the other Ponsa, we had a memorable alfresco white Far de Cavalleria, a lighthouse guests appeared to be 40-something breakfast that included sobrassada, built in 1857 on a craggy peninsula, the French, English and German couples. Menorca’s soft, paprika-seasoned northernmost point of the island, which HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY Since Santa Ponsa’s restaurant hadn’t sausage; local cheeses; and juice made affords spectacular views. We then opened yet — it will begin service this with fruit from the surrounding orchards, headed into the pleasure-boat-filled port summer — we went to dinner at the before heading off for a day’s exploration of Fornells, a place famous for its caldereta hotel’s sister property, Torre Vella, of Menorca’s wild northern coast. At both de llagosta, a rich tomato-brightened rock “We had a memorable breakfast that included sobrassada, Menorca’s soft, paprika-seasoned sausage; local cheeses; and fruit from the surrounding orchards. Details of our Prestige Suite, Fontenille Menorca Santa Ponsa, Alaior CALA MACARELLETA: MICHELE FALZONE / GETTY IMAGES CIUTADELLA: MATTEO COLOMBO / GETTY IMAGES HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2020 3 HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY Infinity pool, new outbuildings, and Pool Cottage, Torralbenc, Alaior “We enjoyed a fine lunch at Es Cranc, a restaurant favored by the Spanish royal family when they put into Fornells on their yacht. lobster stew made with locally caught town of Cala’n Porter, it was designed the styles of traditional Menorcan rural crustaceans. There, we enjoyed a fine by architect Antoni Esteva, who is well- architecture with low-key contemporary lunch at Es Cranc, a restaurant favored known as the creator of some of the chic. Our sitting area provided a pair of by the Spanish royal family when they most spectacular villas in the Balearic armchairs and an accent table situated put into Fornells on their yacht. Islands. His additions included several in front of French doors that led to a Later in the afternoon, we arrived at new subsidiary buildings, which house small private terrace. This overlooked the the casually elegant 27-room Torralbenc, the hotel’s spa and restaurant, as well as olive groves that produce the oil used in which was opened in 2013 after the many of its rooms. Torralbenc’s exceptional restaurant. The PALACIO ENRIQUE COTTAGE: POOL renovation of a whitewashed 19th-century After a dour welcome from a wan young bath was well-lit and appointed with farmhouse. (The property is owned by the woman, we headed to our Superior room two vanities set into a wooden counter. Marugal group, founded by innovative in one of the new outbuildings. Spacious Though you can indulge in treatments Spanish hotelier Pablo Carrington, which and attractive, it came with exposed at the spa — which uses Natura Bissé and also owns Cap Rocat in Mallorca and wooden beams, a cathedral ceiling, SeaSkin products — take yoga classes, the URSO Hotel & Spa in Madrid.) Set straw area mats and a palette of sand and horseback ride through the olive groves or on a ridge, about 2 miles from the beach toast colors. Overall, the room reflected head off for a day at a nearby beach, many 4 HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2020 guests happily spend their time reading the island’s west coast built of honey- beamed ceiling was uninspiring. The and drowsing between dips in the large colored stone. Currently, the town is bed was comfortable enough, but the saltwater infinity pool.

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