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INSIDE — TIMELESS TRANQUILITY IN ’S + DISCOVERIES IN COLONIAL MEXICO

FEBRUARY 2020 SINCE 1979

Traveling the world in search of truly enchanting places

Infinity pool, Cugó Gran , Sant Climent

Exploring Unspoiled Menorca Boutique hotels, historic towns, turquoise bays, deserted beaches, distinctive cuisine

cattered across the Mediterranean, , the smallest island, attracts Connoisseurs of the Balearics insist 200 miles off the eastern coast of just a few knowledgeable travelers. Menorca has the best beaches, ranging SSpain, the four Balearic Islands — Now Menorca is shyly stepping into from sandy strands to intimate coves. , , Formentera and Menorca the spotlight. The quietest and most The 30-mile-long, 10-mile-wide island — possess very different personalities. authentically rural of the quartet, it is also a terrific destination for hikers Ibiza and Mallorca have been two of the has recently seen the opening of several and riders. The recently renovated Camí JAMES BEDFORD JAMES most popular vacation spots in Europe noteworthy hotels, along with a number de Cavalls, or Way of Horses, is a well- for decades. In contrast, tiny, wild of excellent restaurants. marked and -maintained 115-mile trail

Hideaway Report editors travel anonymously and pay full rate for all lodging, meals and related expenses. Since the launch of the Hideaway Report in 1979, featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. For comments and inquiries, please email [email protected]. Harbor of Ciutadella de Menorca, and Cala Macarelleta, one of Menorca’s prettiest beaches

that circles the island. Menorca is avidly an ideal place for a hotel project because Menorca Santa Ponsa on a golden Indian

equestrian, with several stables that hire it seemed so much like the Mediterranean summer afternoon. (The best seasons in EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY out the native black Menorquín horses. of half a century ago. Shopping for an Menorca are May-June and September- The island was declared a Biosphere existing structure to convert, they found October.) The handsome manor house Reserve by UNESCO in 1993, which themselves unable to decide between a was set on a hillside surrounded by lush partially explains why it’s so pristine. 17th-century manor house called Santa Moorish-style gardens with trickling Development is strictly controlled, and Ponsa and Torre Vella, a fortified farm fountains, orange trees, jasmine vines and S’Albufera des Grau Natural Park, which nearby. So they bought both properties, blazes of bougainvillea. It was imposing includes five small islands, is home to which opened last year as 21-room and but seemed welcoming at the same time. prolific birdlife. 17-room hotels, respectively. After cold drinks on the terrace, the The island’s history informs its After a 25-minute drive from the general manager gave us a tour of the distinctive personality. Coveting the airport in Mahón, we arrived at Fontenille property, which has a variety of room huge natural harbor in Mahón, the British occupied the island for much of the 18th century. They expanded the port there, built roads and reservoirs, developed SPAIN BARCELONA the island’s agriculture and left behind 0 40 MI

an enduring taste for gin, which is still 0 40 KM CALA MACARELLETA: MICHELE FALZONE / GETTY IMAGES made on the island at the Xoriguer distillery. The Georgian architecture of many houses in Mahón also bespeaks the former British presence. BALEARIC SEA MENORCA • • • • CIUTADELLA

Nowadays, Menorca is more acces- MAHÓN sible due to an increased number of flights from major cities like Paris and MALLORCA Rome, and the island has caught the PALMA attention of trendsetting young hoteliers VALENCIA such as Guillaume Foucher and Frédéric

Biousse, who first won a reputation with CIUTADELLA: MATTEO COLOMBO / GETTY IMAGES IBIZA MEDITERRANEAN their stunning Domaine de Fontenille in SEA Provence. The two Frenchmen fell in love FORMENTERA with the island and decided it would be

2 HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2020 types. Some accommodations are in the located a 10-minute drive to the south. Santa Ponsa and Torre Vella, the service original manor house; others are found This establishment has a very different was warm and friendly but often slow in adjacent outbuildings, including atmosphere, with a younger clientele that and sometimes imprecise. We trust that our Prestige Suite. This came with an is drawn to its minimalist décor, the work it will be better this summer, when the appealingly rustic décor that included of Miguel Jiménez Robertson, a designer staff have become more experienced. The stone floors and exposed wooden beams, well-known in Menorca for his stylish spa at Santa Ponsa will also open in 2020. plus a gray sofa, wicker wing chairs and renovations of old fincas (farmhouses). • • • • a built-in writing desk in a separate Even though the service was slow, living room. The spacious bath featured dinner on a balmy night in a courtyard We set off along country roads through handmade oyster-colored tiles, a soaking illuminated by candle lanterns was a timeless countryside interspersed with tub, a separate shower and a pair of sinks delightful experience. We enjoyed Jabugo pine forests and dotted with handsome set into a wooden counter. French doors ham and pimiento de Padrón (flash- stone farmhouses, many of which produce led to a small terrace. grilled green peppers from Galicia) to the orange-colored wheels of Mahón Having settled in, we explored the start, and then tucked into some delicious cow’s milk cheese, which is one of the grounds and took a dip in a plunge black rice with prawns and mussels, great cheeses of Spain. After a quick pool created from a former irrigation paired with a Chardonnay from Binifadet, swim in the turquoise waters of the reservoir. Afterward, sun loungers on Menorca’s largest winery. Platges de Cavalleria, one of the island’s grassy terraces invited us to spend a quiet The following morning, back at Santa best beaches, we drove out to the sturdy afternoon with a book. Most of the other Ponsa, we had a memorable alfresco white Far de Cavalleria, a lighthouse guests appeared to be 40-something breakfast that included sobrassada, built in 1857 on a craggy peninsula, the French, English and German couples. Menorca’s soft, paprika-seasoned northernmost point of the island, which HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY Since Santa Ponsa’s restaurant hadn’t sausage; local cheeses; and juice made affords spectacular views. We then opened yet — it will begin service this with fruit from the surrounding orchards, headed into the pleasure-boat-filled port summer — we went to dinner at the before heading off for a day’s exploration of Fornells, a place famous for its caldereta hotel’s sister property, Torre Vella, of Menorca’s wild northern coast. At both de llagosta, a rich tomato-brightened rock

“We had a memorable breakfast that included sobrassada, Menorca’s soft, paprika-seasoned sausage; local cheeses; and fruit from the surrounding orchards.

Details of our Prestige Suite, Fontenille Menorca Santa Ponsa, CALA MACARELLETA: MICHELE FALZONE / GETTY IMAGES CIUTADELLA: MATTEO COLOMBO / GETTY IMAGES

HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2020 3 HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY

Infinity pool, new outbuildings, and Pool Cottage, Torralbenc, Alaior

“We enjoyed a fine lunch at Es Cranc, a restaurant favored by the Spanish royal family when they put into Fornells on their yacht.

lobster stew made with locally caught town of Cala’n Porter, it was designed the styles of traditional Menorcan rural crustaceans. There, we enjoyed a fine by architect Antoni Esteva, who is well- architecture with low-key contemporary lunch at Es Cranc, a restaurant favored known as the creator of some of the chic. Our sitting area provided a pair of by the Spanish royal family when they most spectacular villas in the Balearic armchairs and an accent table situated put into Fornells on their yacht. Islands. His additions included several in front of French doors that led to a Later in the afternoon, we arrived at new subsidiary buildings, which house small private terrace. This overlooked the the casually elegant 27-room Torralbenc, the hotel’s spa and restaurant, as well as olive groves that produce the oil used in

which was opened in 2013 after the many of its rooms. Torralbenc’s exceptional restaurant. The PALACIO ENRIQUE COTTAGE: POOL renovation of a whitewashed 19th-century After a dour welcome from a wan young bath was well-lit and appointed with farmhouse. (The property is owned by the woman, we headed to our Superior room two vanities set into a wooden counter. Marugal group, founded by innovative in one of the new outbuildings. Spacious Though you can indulge in treatments Spanish hotelier Pablo Carrington, which and attractive, it came with exposed at the spa — which uses Natura Bissé and also owns Cap Rocat in Mallorca and wooden beams, a cathedral ceiling, SeaSkin products — take yoga classes, the URSO Hotel & Spa in Madrid.) Set straw area mats and a palette of sand and horseback ride through the olive groves or on a ridge, about 2 miles from the beach toast colors. Overall, the room reflected head off for a day at a nearby beach, many

4 HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2020 guests happily spend their time reading the island’s west coast built of honey- beamed ceiling was uninspiring. The and drowsing between dips in the large colored stone. Currently, the town is bed was comfortable enough, but the saltwater infinity pool. We opted to follow being roused from its torpor — which writing desk and side chairs were more their lead, since Torralbenc provides a set in after the British moved the island’s decorative than practical. And the bath blissful setting in which to relax and do capital to Mahón at the beginning of the came with a single vanity, plus a tub absolutely nothing whatsoever. 18th century — by an influx of young with a hand-held shower badly in need One of the most notable features of creative folk who appreciate its refined of updating. The recurring mystery of the hotel is its restaurant. The menu was architectural beauty. Ciutadella was our stay at Biniarroca was why so many conceived by Basque Michelin-starred the traditional seat of the Menorcan of the world’s travel publications continue chef Gorka Txapartegi and is executed by aristocracy, which explains the handsome to rate this property so highly. chef Luis Loza. Although not extensive, mansions that line its backstreets. Today, • • • • it successfully combines Menorcan it has some of the island’s best shops and culinary tradition with modern tastes and a constellation of excellent restaurants. The following day, we left without techniques. Dishes range from starters We opted for lunch at Mon Restaurant, regret and transferred to the 12-room like sobrassada-filled croquettes to mains a delightful place helmed by chef Felip Cugó Gran Menorca, 6 miles to the west. such as creamy rice with seafood and local Llufriu, who won a Michelin star in 2013 On arrival, the only sounds to be heard fish, crab stew with cauliflower cream, during a stint in Barcelona and who has were those of crickets whirring in the and roasted Menorcan red shrimp. The rediscovered the natural simplicity of afternoon heat and the wind threshing dessert not to miss is the light and slightly traditional Balearic cooking back on his the lavender bushes and olive trees that tangy cheesecake made with local Mahón native island. lined the pathway up to the handsome cheese. The wine list includes Torralbenc Later that afternoon, we drove east stone manor.

HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY wines produced on the estate, which to the 18-room Hotel Rural Biniarroca, After an exceptionally charming are justly regarded as some of the best located 2 miles south of Mahón. A welcome, we settled into our ground- in Menorca. renovated, bougainvillea-splashed floor Superior Room. Spacious and Our only reservation about this lovely 18th-century farmhouse with several light, this had a beamed ceiling, dark place was that the staff, while profes- outbuildings and two pools, Biniarroca parquet floors, wall-mounted nickel- sional, were occasionally rather haughty. was a prototype for the stylish, rustic- silver reading lamps, two upholstered Otherwise, Torralbenc is a fine base from chic lodgings that have lately become armchairs and a secretary desk. Overall, which to explore Menorca, as well as an a signature of Menorca. Although our the atmosphere seemed like that of a impressive destination hotel. welcome was warm, the property has, stylish guest room in a private house, alas, not aged well. The chilly lighting rather than that of a hotel. The bath was • • • • in our Superior room in the garden came fitted with travertine floors, quarry-tile From Torralbenc, we headed to from low-wattage energy-saving bulbs, walls, a double vanity and a large walk-in Ciutadella de Menorca, a small port on while the austere room beneath a low shower. Two pairs of French doors led

Our room at Hotel Rural Biniarroca, Sant Lluís POOL COTTAGE: ENRIQUE PALACIO ENRIQUE COTTAGE: POOL

HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2020 5 Exterior, and bedroom and terrace of our Superior Room, Cugó Gran Menorca, Sant Climent

to a private terrace with neatly trimmed pool surrounded by lawns, topiaries and stylish but friendly and peaceful hotel, box tree hedges and two loungers. daybeds screened with white muslin where it is easy to linger for several days Public rooms include a beautiful living curtains. doing nothing much aside from enjoying room with cushy sofas and chairs, books That evening, we enjoyed a delicious the pool, the spa and the views of the

in many languages and a Juliet balcony meal in the candlelit dining room, Mediterranean. It would be hard to ANDKA / GETTY IMAGES that offers views over the vineyards and including Cap Roig fish stew and a think of a better example of the gracious, olive groves of the 250-acre estate to the rabbit-and-prawn paella, with which low-key luxury accommodations that are distant Mediterranean. Outside, loungers we drank an excellent white wine from now making Menorca an increasingly line a terrace overlooking an infinity the estate. Cugó Gran Menorca is a popular but still secluded destination. H

FONTENILLE MENORCA SANTA PONSA 91A LIKE Stylish décor; beautiful Moorish gardens; the delicious breakfast. DISLIKE Though friendly, the service was often too casual and slow. GOOD TO KNOW Some rooms overlook the parking lot and should be avoided. Lowest Rate: Classic Room, $300; Editor’s Choice: Prestige Suite, $390. Carretera de Llucalari, Alaior. Tel. (34) 971-372-352. HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY

TORRALBENC 93A LIKE The balance between rural authenticity and creature comforts; the superlative restaurant. DISLIKE Aside from the charming team in the spa, the staff could be haughty and occasionally impatient. GOOD TO KNOW Even if you’re not staying at Torralbenc, the hotel’s restaurant is one of the best nights out in Menorca; nonresidents must book well in advance. Lowest Rate: Albenc Double Room, $270; Editor’s Choice: Sea View Room, $380. Carretera Maó, Cala’n Porter, Km. 10, Alaior. Tel. (34) 971-377-211.

HOTEL RURAL BINIARROCA 87 LIKE Friendly staff; lovely gardens. DISLIKE Our dated and poorly lit room. GOOD TO KNOW Guests must be older than age 16. Lowest Rate: Classic Room, $200; Editor’s Choice: Superior Room, $280. Camí Vell 57, Sant Lluís. Tel. (34) 971-150-059. Infinity pool, Cugó Gran Menorca CUGÓ GRAN MENORCA 92A LIKE The beautiful interiors; the remarkably friendly and efficient staff; the gorgeous swimming pool; the tranquil and secluded atmosphere. DISLIKE The Wi-Fi access is spotty at best. GOOD TO KNOW The nearest sandy beach, Cales Coves, is located 3 miles from the hotel. Lowest Rate: Superior Room, $340; Editor’s Choice: Deluxe Room, $410. Camí Sa Forana s/n, Sant Climent. Tel. (34) 971-157-447.

6 HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2020 Mahón: Menorca’s Charming Capital This 18th-century naval base now offers a peaceful atmosphere, handsome architecture and exceptional seafood

in a sauce of their own ink, and caldereta de llagosta, Menorca’s signature casserole of spiny lobster in a tomato broth. Moll de Llevant 267. Tel. (34) 971-369-909.

Where to Shop

The best souvenir of a trip to Menorca is a pair of avarcas, the traditional leather fishermen’s sandals. Sturdy and very comfort- able, they’re now made in a variety of colors and leathers, for both adults and children. In Mahón, S’Avarca de Menorca (Carrer de l’Àngel 4) and Avarcashop (Carrer de ses Moreres 47) both offer an extensive range. Costa de Ses Voltes and the Iglesia de Santa María, Mahón Where to Stay

erched on cliffs overlooking one of the world’s great natural Housed in an old monastery, There are no hotels in Mahón that harbors, the pretty little town of Mahón (population 30,000), Museu de Menorca, a small but are sufficiently luxurious to recom- Menorca’s capital, is becoming a stylish, arty place. A striking fascinating museum, displays P mend unreservedly to Hideaway new arts center by the famous Swiss gallery Hauser & Wirth is scheduled artifacts from Menorcan history, Report members, but the charm- to open in a former naval hospital on Isla del Rey later this year. With beginning with the Neolithic ing and very friendly 14-room its classical Georgian architecture — a legacy of the fact that the town settlers who arrived on the island Casa Ládico Boutique, set in a was occupied by the British for much of the 18th century — tidy Mahón ANDKA / GETTY IMAGES in 4000 B.C., plus a variety of beautifully restored 19th-century looks quite different from most Balearic towns. Spared by mass tourism, artworks depicting, or produced mansion, provides a comfortable it is an intimate and delightful place to discover on foot. on, the island. and convenient base. Rooms are individually decorated with styl- Where to Eat What to See Plaça del Carme, a lively square at ish wallpaper and handsome the heart of town, is the location of Overlooking the harbor, S a furniture. The best accommoda- To understand Mahón, you need the Claustre del Carme, a popular Taverna D’Es Port is a popular tions are located on the first floor, to view it from the sea and to food market, with many stalls tapas bar that serves delicious overlooking the garden, plunge discover its port. So begin your serving tapas and other dishes. steamed mussels, grilled baby pool and terrace at the rear of visit by descending the stone Other vendors sell clothes, jewelry squid, sautéed Menorcan prawns, the hotel. These quarters come staircase that leads from the upper and ceramics. sea anemone beignets and a with high beamed ceilings, large

HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY town to the waterfront and taking variety of croquettes filled with windows and original parquet a Yellow Catamarans tour of the Iglesia de Santa María, Mahón’s ham or chicken in a béchamel floors, and several of them of- harbor. On this hourlong trip, principal church, was built in 1748 sauce. Service is English-speaking fer baths with soaking tubs. All narrated in English, among other atop the foundations of chapels and friendly, and the wine list come with good lighting, walk-in languages, you view the naval built in the mid-14th century features some of Menorca’s rainfall showers and L’Occitane installations that the British built to celebrate the reconquest of better bottles. Moll de Llevant 139. toiletries. Café Ládico serves at this strategic crossroads of the Mahón from the . Its Catalan Tel. (34) 971-367-909. an outstanding breakfast buffet Mediterranean, catch a glimpse of gothic interior includes numerous with local hams, sausages and the Anglo-American cemetery — stained-glass windows, plus a Book a terrace table at Restaurante cheeses, as well as delicious en- Mahón was the winter quarters of Swiss-made organ brought to S’Espigó, overlooking the pleasure saïmadas (Balearic pastries); at the U.S. Mediterranean Squadron the city by the British admiral boat moorings, for an excellent lunchtime, salads, cured meats from 1815 until 1848 — and see Baron Collingwood. There are meal of fresh local seafood. The and tapas are available. The hotel the house where British Admiral organ recitals at 1 p.m. Monday menu varies according to the catch has a small spa suite with a sauna. Horatio Nelson stayed during his to Saturday from May through of the day but runs to dishes like Carrer d’Anuncivay 26. Tel. (34) numerous visits. September. grilled tuna with onions, cuttlefish 971-573-700.

HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2020 7 Favorite Restaurants and a Dramatic Cliffside Bar Sophisticated visitors and the island’s superb produce are now attracting many talented young chefs

into a caldereta de llagosta, the Cova d’en Xoroi restaurant’s signature dish. The less expensive seafood version of this stew, with mussels, langoustines, clams and fish, is also excellent. Carrer Escoles 31, Fornells. Tel. (34) 971-376-442.

Mon Restaurant At this art gallery-like restaurant with parquet floors, white walls and a big picture window overlooking a small garden, Menorca-born chef Felip Llufriu draws his inspiration from the dishes he ate as a child. Nowadays, he updates them with clever garnishes and impeccable technique learned when he worked at the Roca brothers’ acclaimed restaurant El Celler de Can Roca in Girona and then as chef at their restaurant in Barcelona. Made with mostly local ingredients, his food determined effort by the island’s government to preserve of the best seafood restaurants on is sincere, full of flavor and deeply traditional small-scale agriculture explains why the Menorcan the island, partly because it owns satisfying, including the dishes A larder is so rich with high-quality produce. In addition to citrus its own fishing boat. The menu COVA D’EN XOROI: MAITE SANTONJA / BIQUBICA we enjoyed at a recent lunch here: fruit and sun-ripened vegetables, the olive oil is excellent, as are the features simple but delicious cannelloni stuffed with creamed wines, while the Mahón cheese made from raw milk on island farms dishes like white beans with baby chicken and accompanied by a is prized all over Spain. Small fishing boats land their catch daily in clams, and grilled red mullet with garnish of lardo di Colonnata, Ciutadella and Mahón, which is why the seafood in many restaurants fried potatoes. Carretera Mahón 3, roast suckling pig with carrot is exceptional. Perhaps the island’s most famous dish is caldereta de Carrer de Fornells, Maó. Tel. (34) purée, and a superb plate of llagosta, rock lobster caught along the island’s craggy shoreline cooked 650-974-685. in a tomato-rich bouillon. Sobrassada, a soft pork sausage flavored cheeses from the Balearic Islands. with paprika, is another local favorite, but the Menorcan dish that has Club Náutico Binisafua Mon pours an excellent selection gone on to achieve international popularity is a condiment, mayonnaise, This casual sea shack-style of wines by the glass, and service which was purportedly invented here in 1756 to celebrate a French restaurant overlooking the is charming and polished. Passeig naval victory, and which was originally known as “Mahón-aise.” Today, Mediterranean in Sant Lluís is a Sant Nicolau 4, Ciutadella. Tel. (34) Menorca has a vibrant and imaginative restaurant scene, especially in local favorite for carefully prepared 971-381-718. charming Ciutadella. Catalan comfort-food dishes like roasted vegetables, deep- fried baby artichokes, steamed Ca Na Pilar Ca Na Pilar Restaurant ing restaurants on the island. The Restaurant mussels, grilled turbot, black rice Young chef Victor Lidón started menu changes with the seasons with shellfish and aioli, and paella. cooking in his family’s restaurant but runs to dishes like foie gras Reservations are essential. Passeig when he was 16, and then worked with a pumpkin tartlet, grilled de la Mar 29-31, Sant Lluís. Tel. (34) in Barcelona and London before catch-of-the-day fish with black 971-357-741. becoming head chef at three-star eggplant and a sauce vierge, and El Racó de Can Fabes (near Barce- coconut foam with curry ice cream. Es Cranc lona) under the direction of chef Avenida de la Mar 1, Es Migjorn Reservations are essential at this Santi Santamaría. When this leg- Gran. Tel. (34) 971-370-212. stylish and fashionable restaurant endary establishment closed, he in the pretty little port of Fornells. decided to return to Menorca. He Can Bernat des Grau Start with sautéed red Menorcan has since transformed his family’s In the countryside just outside prawns — they’re incredibly sweet tavern into one of the most charm- Mahón, this amiable tavern is one and succulent — and then tuck

8 HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2020 Tastes of Menorca

Rels Visiting the places where some of Menorca’s The name means “roots” in essential food products are made is a wonderful English, a reference to the fact that way to discover the island and to learn its history. its two chefs are Menorca natives It also offers a chance to shop for edible souvenirs. who returned home after cooking Cheese: Queso de Mahón at famous restaurants in Spain and Appreciated all over Spain, Mahón cheese is elsewhere. A menu of inventive made from unpasteurized local Holstein-Friesian contemporary Catalan cuisine is cow’s milk and has European D.O.P. (Protected served in an all-white dining room Designation of Origin) status, which mandates that and on a quiet terrace. Typical a food can be produced only in a specific location. dishes run to prawn-filled ravioli, One of the most beautiful farms, Subaida, an 865- oysters in lemon gel, cold beet- acre property with a herd of 100 cows, welcomes and-basil soup, roast suckling pig visitors on tours that end with a tasting. The and roasted dentex (a firm white farm’s daily output of 80 cheeses requires some fish) with grilled artichokes, and 660 gallons of milk, and the cheeses are aged to chicken-and-red-prawn terrine. four levels of maturity — five weeks, two to four Calle de Sant Isidre 33, Ciutadella. months, five to nine months and more than a year, Wine and cheese tasting at the end of a tour of Tel. (34) 971-480-516. Subaida, a beautiful dairy farm the last category having a rich, nutty flavor that’s

Smoix like a grassier version of Parmesan. Note: Shrink- wrapped Mahón cheeses can be brought home Located in a former jewelry without attracting hostile scrutiny from Customs. small parcel of land (number 12). The estate has a factory, this charming hotel- Carretera Alaior-Arenal d’en Castell, Alaior. Tel. (34) wine bar, plus a very good restaurant, and there is restaurant has an industrial-chic 971-379-086. also a shop. Carretera Sant Lluís-, Km. 0.5, décor with bare wooden tables Sant Lluís. Tel. (34) 971-150-715. and a very friendly staff. Chef COVA D’EN XOROI: MAITE SANTONJA / BIQUBICA Olive Oil: Pont Modorro Miquel Sánchez is one of the For four generations, the family of owner Juan Gin: Xoriguer Distillery island’s most inventive cooks Cerezo Mir has been tending the olive groves and Introduced to Menorca by the British when they and serves a market menu that making oil on this 70-acre farm outside Cap de occupied the island in 1708, gin was originally evolves according to the seasons. Favàritx, 11 miles northwest of Mahón. Its organic produced for soldiers billeted there but later Dishes like a succulent ragout of extra-virgin olive oil is made from five varieties of became a favorite with the locals. As local pork and lentils with shrimp olives. The Acebuche oil has a refreshingly green Menorcans developed a taste for in leek-and-lemon cream express yet buttery flavor, which is unique enough to the spirit, the recipe was tweaked to his rustic but debonair style. warrant finding space for a bottle in your suitcase. cater to their palates; vinous alcohol Closed Monday. Avenida Jaume It is perfect for salads and also for (made with grapes) replaced Conqueridor 38, Ciutadella. Tel. making fresh mayonnaise. Camí de sa grain alcohol, and flavors that (34) 971-382-808. Boal, Carretera Maó-Fornells, Km. 5.8, appealed to British troops — Mahón. Tel. (34) 971-938-333. orange, cumin, coriander and Cova d’en Xoroi cinnamon — were abandoned Menorca’s best bar has a dramatic Wine: Binifadet in favor of an exclusive use cliffside setting and is the most Menorca’s largest winery produces of juniper berries and local popular place on the island for 11 wines from Chardonnay, herbs. The Xoriguer distillery sundowners, since the views Merlot, Syrah and Muscat grapes. was founded by Miguel Pons over the Mediterranean are so These are grown on 30 acres Justo during the 1940s. spectacular. Book one of the VIP outside Sant Lluís, just south Distilled in 250-year-old terraces to be sure you’ll have a of Mahón, and their character wood-fired copper stills that perch on which to enjoy a pomada, comes from the limestone- are later cooled with seawater, Menorca’s signature cocktail rich soil. The white Merluzo is the gin is aged in wooden of locally distilled Xoriguer gin excellent with seafood, while the barrels before being bottled. and lemonade. (Note: Later in Espumoso Rosado, a sparkling The distillery, overlooking the evening, the bar becomes a rosé, is a great aperitif. Perhaps the port of Mahón, is open to nightclub.) Urbanización Cala en the most elegant wine is Tanca visitors. Tastings are offered, and a shop sells the Porter, Carrer de sa Cova 2, Alaior, 12, a well-structured Chardonnay gin in bottles of different sizes. Moll de Ponent 91, Tel. (34) 971-377-236. made with grapes from the same Maó. Tel. (34) 971-362-197.

HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2020 9 Rooftop pool, Azul Talavera Hotel, Puebla

A Return Visit to Colorful Colonial Mexico Contrasting new hotels in Puebla and San Miguel de Allende

hen I mentioned to an The other question I invariably receive famous, considering the charms of its acquaintance that I would about Mexico is “Is it safe?” Most drug pedestrian-friendly and well-preserved W be revisiting Mexico, he cartel-related murders in Mexico occur 16th-century center, a UNESCO World remarked, “Nice. Are you planning on in hot spots along the U.S. border, which Heritage site full of elaborate churches, leaving the resort?” I suppose many trav- is at least eight hours by car from the impressive museums and stylish bars. The

elers to the country do cloister themselves closest hotel we recommend. (It takes city has an unusually rich culinary heri- EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY nowadays, but while I enjoy occasional nearly as long to drive from New York to tage, which I relished in both traditional bouts of pure relaxation, walling myself Cleveland.) True, I’ve read recent reports and innovative restaurants. And — not off from a destination is not my style. of cartels extorting small businesses, least important — Puebla recently saw the On this trip, I intended to return to the even in some of Mexico’s safest cities. But openings of two enticing luxury hotels. colorful colonial cities, which offer an the average traveler is highly unlikely to The best of these was the 78-room entrancing combination of indigenous encounter problems. For an additional Rosewood Puebla, fronting a leafy square culture and European architecture. These sense of security, I recommend using close to the heart of the old center. I say are world-class destinations within easy a reputable ground operator to arrange “was” because after our stay, the hotel Sea of reach of the continental United States, for transfers and guiding. I’ve employed changed management companies and Cortez and, moreover, ones that offer excellent Journey Mexico several times, and the now calls itself the Azul Talavera Hotel. BAJA value for the money. company always provides top-quality It occupies several historic buildings, the CALIFORNIA

guides and drivers. best-preserved of which is the lavaderos, EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY This time, I returned to two cities I’d a vaulted 16th-century public laundry ZACATECAS GULF OF overlooked on my previous visit to colo- that now serves as an atmospheric event MEXICO CANCUN SAN MIGUEL nial Mexico: up-and-coming Puebla and space. But in many ways, the hotel felt PUERTO DE ALLENDE VALLARTA ever-popular San Miguel de15 Allende. The fresh and contemporary. YUCATAN MEXICO former, a city of about 1.5 millionRIVIERA people, A welcoming front desk clerk led us MORELIA CITY PENINSULA MAYA is well-known to residents of Mexico through the adjacent lobby-lounges,

CUERNAVACA PUEBLA City, an easy two-and-a-half-hour drive furnished with art book-lined shelves Caribbean away. Travelers from other countriesSea visit and comfortable seating groups, and up PACIFIC OCEAN in far fewer numbers, giving Puebla an to our spacious Premier King Room. Its 0 200 MI authentic, unspoiled atmosphere. I found exposed-stone walls, partially covered 0 200 KM it surprising that the city isn’t more by swaths of plaster bearing faded layers

10 HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2020 of paint, were obviously original, but the panoramic views. There is no changing hotel, but until we reevaluate the property black Talavera-tile floors were a new and room, sauna or steam room. But my treat- in its incarnation as the Azul Talavera, I striking addition. Off the entry hall was ment room proved to be quite comfort- cannot unreservedly endorse it. a room containing a large orchid-topped able, with its own shower and armchair. I • • • • work desk and an antiqued wall mirror. reserved a Talavera Massage, in which the It connected to the bedroom, furnished highly professional therapist employed The nearby Cartesiano hotel also with a sideboard inlaid with intricate Talavera ceramic pestles in the manner of combines modern and historic structures. marquetry, two beige linen armchairs hot stones. I arose from the table feeling Its 78 rooms occupy a new building as and a sofa in dusty pink, which matched relaxed and ready for dinner. well as a refurbished former tile factory accent pillows on the king-size bed. “Relaxed” would be the generous behind it. We opted for a King Size Our stylish bath had a freestanding descriptor for the service at the hotel’s Suite in the old factory, where no traffic tub of hammered copper, dual vanities set Pasquinel Bistrot, where it took ages to noise could penetrate. Our ground-floor in a white-marble counter and mirrors acquire a glass of water and an eternity accommodation facing one of the two framed in blue-and-white Talavera tiles. to place an order. The geologic pace was garden courtyards sacrificed privacy in The room overlooked the ocher Templo de especially irritating because the staff exchange for character. (Suites on the San Francisco, a pleasant view, but below seemed to outnumber the occupied tables. historic buildings’ second floors overlook it was a busy street clogged with honking However, once the food started arriving, exterior walkways; rooms in the new trucks during rush hour (fortunately not my mood improved. A well-balanced building are the most private.) when we were sleeping). Request a view appetizer of fresh sea bass tiradito al Although no bellman was in evidence of the quiet central garden courtyard or pastor came with spicy guajillo chile when we pulled up to the hotel, my first of the square in front of the hotel instead. salsa, sweet pineapple purée and crunchy impression of Cartesiano was otherwise Our favorite place to relax at the pickled onions. I also loved the confit of favorable. A friendly front desk clerk property was on the roof deck, which tender suckling pig with a sage and guava offered us water and chilled towels as afforded a splendid view of the sunset gastrique, though the accompanying fried we sat in the airy lobby, and then led us behind the domes and bell towers of kale turned from crunchy to unpleasantly along the path dividing the new building Puebla’s old center. On an especially chewy all too quickly. from the lobby-lounge and bar. We passed clear evening, we also spotted the cones Breakfasts on the restaurant’s patio a glass-walled library and descended a of distant volcanoes. The bar there offers were an unfailingly delightful way to sweep of a staircase to reach the rear highboy tables, plus cushioned sofas and start each morning. My favorite dish courtyard and our suite’s entrance. armchairs in which to enjoy an aperitif, was a pretty omelet studded with squash Unfortunately, the only furnishings HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY but the loungers lining the raised lap pool blossoms and filled with Atlixco cheese in the suite were a king bed, a long table have an even better view. and huitlacoche (corn fungus). I found holding the television and a dinette with On the same level is the spa, which has myself lingering over this last breakfast, two midcentury modern-style chairs. I only a small lobby-lounge and treatment delaying our checkout for as long as wish the interior designers had found rooms, as well as a fitness room with possible. I wish I could recommend this room for an armchair in which to relax.

Our Premier King Room, Azul Talavera Hotel, Puebla HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY

HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2020 11 Our King Size Suite, and rooftop pool, Cartesiano, Puebla

But I did like the bath, which doubled bit of Thai-style stretching. I didn’t always Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel (parish as a dressing room. It had ample closet understand what was happening, but I church), a surreal neo-gothic fantasy of space, dual vessel sinks, a large shower enjoyed the experience. pink sandstone. stall and Ortigia bath products, but no In spite of Cartesiano’s more extensive Artists still work in San Miguel de tub. I also regretted the lack of slippers. spa, I preferred our first hotel, which Allende, but it doesn’t feel bohemian. The hotel’s main restaurant had a had a warmer décor and better-designed In fact, the town is the most expensive lengthy menu of appealing local dishes, accommodations. I can only hope that of Mexico’s colonial cities. People dress some with traditional presentations its level of service will remain high now up, especially on the weekends, when and some more contemporary. At our that it is no longer a Rosewood. San Miguel draws visitors from Mexico dinner there, we shared an appetizer of a City, Querétaro and Guadalajara. Holiday • • • •

crêpe-like parcel filled with melted white weekends can be especially crowded, EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY cheese and huauzontle (green amaranth), The colonial city of San Miguel de making it wise to visit during the week, a mild local vegetable resembling soft, Allende is one of our perennial favorites when there isn’t as much competition conical broccoli. For my main course, I in central Mexico. Originally the site of for reservations in top restaurants. The opted for the seasonal mole de caderas, an indigenous village, San Miguel was wine country just outside San Miguel is a deeply flavored guajillo chile-infused founded by a Franciscan monk in 1542 and also quieter on weekdays. goat broth with on-the-bone goat and reestablished by Spanish colonists in 1555 We’ve long recommended two hotels green beans. À la carte breakfasts on the near two springs. The town flourished at in San Miguel de Allende, the Belmond restaurant’s terrace were also delicious, a major crossroads, as evidenced by the Casa de Sierra Nevada, composed of six and we sipped aperitifs each evening on immense palaces that stand in its center historic buildings in the center, and the the bar’s adjacent terrace. to this day. An influenza outbreak in the Rosewood San Miguel de Allende, a larger Aside from a small but diverting art early 20th century left the city in serious resort at the center’s edge. But since gallery and a quiet café, the hotel’s other decline, but its fortunes changed when our last visit, a number of hideaways main amenity is its large spa, which has artists established a school in a former have opened in renovated colonial-era separate steam rooms and experience convent. Expats restored crumbling buildings. I couldn’t resist a return trip, showers for men and women and a coed colonial houses, and San Miguel grew so I selected three of the most promising indoor pool and jetted tub. Here, too, into a major tourist (and retirement) new properties, all of which are within the price for a massage was too reason- destination, drawing visitors with its an easy walk of the Parroquia. able for me to resist. I booked a Baroque mild climate, well-preserved architec- The newest of them was The Essentia Massage, which, true to its name, proved ture, cobblestone streets, impressive Hotel, which had been open for just a rather complicated. It included two gallery scene, fine restaurants and vibrant few weeks at the time of our stay. The aromatherapy oils, Swedish massage, nightlife. Roof terraces around San Miguel nine-room hotel (more accommodations deep-tissue pressure around my upper afford memorable views of the skyline’s are in the works) occupies a fine, central back, some lomi lomi long strokes and a domes and bell towers, notably that of the location near the corner of Mesones and

12 HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2020 Relox, a block away from the main square. skin accompanied by chorizo-studded opens to a roof terrace with an attrac- The doorman spoke flawless English and succotash. The staff spoke excellent tive (unheated) checkerboard-tile pool. greeted us warmly. Communicating English, and our cheerful server had a There is no view, but eight wood-framed with the rest of the staff wasn’t always broad knowledge of wine. loungers plus rows of cushions along a set as easy, however. In contrast to the Problems mounted up, however: The of broad stone stairs provide agreeable doorman, some of the front desk clerks roof terrace was unfinished, and at the places in which to relax. knew only a few words of English, which time of our stay, the hotel offered no I had reserved a Luxury Suite, which, is a problem at a “luxury hotel” in a breakfast. We found delectable pastries like the rest of the hotel, felt comfort- destination popular with U.S. travelers. at Panio, a world-class bakery nearby, able and inviting. A brass coffee table, (Before leaving home, I’d sent an email and then raised our spirits further by numerous Edison bulbs and raw-wood to request restaurant reservations, and checking out. doors lent warmth to the space. The bath the concierge had replied, in all capital was especially attractive, with two square • • • • letters, that he was “AT MY SERVICE,” but onyx sinks, irregular white tiles cladding it required additional emails to prompt A much better option can be found the ample shower, local Ablu Botanica him to action.) nearby in the Dôce 18 Concept House, a bath products and a freestanding oval tub Our room key proved to be an ugly sort of upscale mall with a selection of in an air shaft open to the sky. I also liked fluorescent-green rubber bracelet, and fashion boutiques, gourmet shops, art the suite’s white linen sofa, contemporary it opened the door to a Junior Suite that galleries, a private tequila bar, a food hall art, gas fireplace, leather-strap luggage was nothing of the sort. There was space and a 10-room hotel. Parts of the building racks and sumptuously comfortable bed. for only one chair near the bed, making date from the 18th century, but much of The only problem was that the room’s it a deluxe room at best. I liked the its current appearance is the result of windows all faced air shafts. Light came Saltillo-tile floor and domed brick ceil- an expansion in 1943. L’Ôtel at Dôce 18 in through the one above the bath and a ings, as well as the jetted tub and separate Concept House occupies the newer upper second next to the desk. The suite had barrel-vaulted shower stall. But I didn’t floor of the building, and the three-year- plenty of natural light and fresh air, but appreciate the intense light emitted by the old hotel feels bright and fresh. Only the those requiring some sort of view should recessed bulbs in the bedroom’s ceiling. small lobby, with its partially exposed reserve the Master Suite or Owners Suite, Public areas at the hotel include an stone walls and old “Singer” logo above the latter with its own rooftop orchard. elegant wood-paneled lounge decorated a doorway, makes nods to the past. Overall, I enjoyed our stay immensely. with contemporary art and an excellent Much of the hotel surrounds an airy The staff always greeted us cheerfully and restaurant, Santiago & Macarena, where atrium above Dôce 18’s new restaurant, provided helpful service. The front desk HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY rough, exposed-stone walls contrast with Oli Tapas. L’Ôtel’s dedicated bar is a was happy to assist with mailing post- Louis XVI chairs. There, we enjoyed a mostly white lounge space with deeply cards — an unusual request nowadays — delicious dinner of rich mushroom pâté cushioned chairs and a baby grand piano. and the bartender always looked pleased topped with zippy whiskey-and-lemon There, we indulged in mezcal Negronis to see us. I also quite liked staying atop gelée, and fresh red snapper with crispy each evening before dinner. The bar the Concept House, where we had a fun

Our Luxury Suite, L’Ôtel at Dôce 18 Concept House, San Miguel de Allende

HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2020 13 Rooftop view from Fatima 7 restaurant, café, and bath of our Master Suite, Casa Blanca 7, San Miguel de Allende

tapas dinner and splurged on a private Upstairs, we found the new Fatima encompassing both the Parroquia and tequila tasting. 7 restaurant by acclaimed chef Donnie San Francisco’s looming tower. Masterton (formerly of the Restaurant Fatima 7 is a stylish addition to San • • • • in San Miguel), which serves delicious Miguel’s restaurant scene. But the hotel, With our faith in San Miguel’s boutique Moroccan cuisine. My “bisteeya,” a packet while comfortable and welcoming, does hotels restored, we checked into Casa of phyllo-like warqa dough filled with not qualify as a luxury property. The Blanca 7, a 10-room hotel facing the shredded chicken, saffron, raisins and Rosewood San Miguel de Allende and Templo de San Francisco and its tree-filled almonds, was better than the one I had Belmond Casa de Sierra Nevada remain square. This white house has a Moroccan the previous year in Marrakech, and a at the top of the pile, and L’Ôtel at Dôce theme, which works quite well with the side of beets with walnuts, mint, chile 18 Concept House is a stylish new addi- riad-like residential architecture of San flakes and yogurt was refreshing and tion that fashion-conscious travelers will Miguel. Open since mid-2017, Casa Blanca well-balanced. I also loved the view, want to consider. H

7 has guest rooms and lounges with tall EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY wood-beamed ceilings surrounding two courtyards, both centered on fountains. AZUL TALAVERA HOTEL 89 LIKE Our Premier King’s stylish and well-considered design; the always-welcoming staff; the roof deck’s Around the main courtyard we discovered memorable panoramic views. DISLIKE The slow service at dinner; the traffic noise that invades rooms the front desk, the Café Casa Blanca 7 (for facing Avenue 14 Oriente. GOOD TO KNOW Request an accommodation facing the rear garden courtyard or, as a second choice, a room at the front of the hotel. Lowest Rate: Deluxe Room, $330; Editor’s Choice: breakfast and lunch) and a bar-lounge Premier One Bedroom Suite, $660. Calle 10 Norte 1402, Colonia Barrio del Alto. Tel. (52) 222-122-2300. with leather sofas and a fireplace. These CARTESIANO 89 spaces are open to the public, but the rear LIKE The location on the edge of the old center; the restaurant’s appealing roof terrace; the historic courtyard, which provides access to the buildings’ atmospheric courtyards; the extensive spa; the price. DISLIKE Our suite’s lack of privacy, since it directly faced a courtyard and staircase. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel has a small art gallery along Calle guest rooms, requires a key. 3 Oriente with rotating shows. Lowest Rate: Standard Room, $260; Editor’s Choice: Deluxe King Size Suite, We received an upgrade from a Luxury $360. Calle 3 Oriente 610, Centro. Tel. (52) 222-478-6900.

Suite to a Master Suite, the hotel’s highest THE ESSENTIA HOTEL 86 accommodation category. Its bath was a LIKE The excellent restaurant; the wine cellar/private dining room. DISLIKE The lack of breakfast service; soaring space with a hammered-nickel the lack of turndown service. GOOD TO KNOW More rooms are planned for the front of the building; currently they all face an indoor-outdoor staircase at the rear. Lowest Rate: Junior Suite, $490; Editor’s tub backed by an exposed-stone wall, Choice: Standard Suite, $600. Calle Mesones 63, Centro. Tel. (52) 415-150-1255. flanked by cubic composite-quartz vani- L’ÔTEL AT DÔCE 18 CONCEPT HOUSE 91A ties. Ample light came from sconces, a LIKE The central location atop San Miguel’s largest concept store; our airy junior suite-like accommodation; chandelier and a skylight far above. But our outdoor tub. DISLIKE Our Luxury Suite had skylights, not actual windows; the hotel’s roof terrace had no view, and its swimming pool is unheated. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel has a four-room sister property the room itself could hardly be considered nearby with a more colorful décor; it, too, has a roof terrace but no pool. Lowest Rate: Traditional King, $450; a suite. It had room only for the king bed, Editor’s Choice: Master Suite, $810. Relox 18, Centro. Tel. (52) 415-154-7114.

a desk, a bench at the foot of the bed and CASA BLANCA 7 89 an ottoman. Privacy was lacking, since LIKE The welcoming staff; the fine rooftop restaurant and its fantastic views. DISLIKE The lack of turndown service; the lack of privacy; the noise from the restaurant in our room. GOOD TO KNOW The the only window faced the courtyard. And restaurant provides a stage for belly dancers on Wednesday evenings, starting at 7:30 p.m. Lowest Rate: turndown service failed to materialize. Deluxe Suite, $420; Editor’s Choice: Master Suite, $1,020. Juárez 7, Centro. Tel. (52) 415-688-1438.

14 HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2020 Top Puebla Restaurants

Our plates of suckling pig confit at Augurio and red snapper at Casa Barroca

he colorful city of Puebla of reposado tequila, Ancho Reyes smooth and complex. Pechuga unique mamey ice cream. Privada has a deep culinary Verde liqueur, Bitter Mexicano and mezcals (distilled a third time with 2 Oriente 1007, Centro Histórico. T heritage, with an array pipicha (a local herb) was a fine fruits, nuts, herbs and a poultry Tel. (52) 222-232-0032. of local recipes influenced by accompaniment. 9 Calle Oriente breast) are notoriously expensive, Ciudad Sagrada both indigenous traditions and 16, Centro Histórico. Tel. (52) 222- so don’t miss the chance to try In the ancient religious center of Spanish colonial cooking. Perhaps 290-2378. a reasonably priced glass of a Cholula, now essentially a suburb the most famous dish is mole notable example. 7 Oriente 205, of Puebla, Ciudad Sagrada is the poblano, a thick, dark, flavorful Casa Barroca Centro Histórico. Tel. (52) 222- sister restaurant of Casa Barroca, sauce that is made from upward Another of Puebla’s acclaimed 290-4767. also run by chef Hugo Minutti. of 30 ingredients, depending chefs, Hugo Minutti, draws Casareyna It’s an ideal choice for lunch after on whose grandmother’s recipe inspiration from French cuisine This restaurant in the hotel of the visiting the new Museo Regional you’re following. But mole but remains grounded in Poblano same name specializes in mole de Cholula and the nearby archae- poblano is just one of many moles traditions. Casa Barroca feels traditional, with wood-beamed poblano. According to my guide ological park, home to a massive

HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY EDITOR REPORT HIDEAWAY available on menus in Puebla, in Puebla, Casareyna serves the buried pyramid. I sipped a minted where the selections vary with ceilings, wrought-iron chandeliers best mole poblano in the city. I felt lemonade as we sat on the quiet the seasons. and white tablecloths. The service is highly attentive. After a large a little skeptical after we sat down, garden patio and scanned the Augurio amuse-bouche of pork chalupas, noting the tastevin around the upscale Poblano menu. To start, Chef Ángel Vázquez caused a I relished an appetizer of savory sommelier’s neck, a pretentious I chose a soup of poblano pepper splash in Puebla when he opened duck confit stuffed into a thin affectation. But the proof was in purée and corn cream, garnished the mole. I skipped the appetizers with fresh pepper slices, squash Intro, a gourmet restaurant serving blue-corn tortilla topped with and went right for it. The Abuela blossoms and a quail egg. A main international cuisine that remains spicy-sweet almond sauce and Angela Mole Poblano lived up to course of butter-sautéed red one of the city’s best. But I was quelites, a local green resembling its hype: Fragrant with chocolate snapper was small but satisfying, interested in his newer venture, thin chard. Also delicious was my and cinnamon, the sumptuous served with saffron rice, panela Augurio, which focuses on upscale main course of red snapper grilled sauce tasted deep and complex, cheese and spicy guajillo chile versions of local recipes. On the in a corn husk and topped with with a balance of sweet and spicy sauce. The restaurant is down ground floor of the Quinta Esencia pineapple adobo and purslane. flavors. It came lavished atop a an unpromising-looking street hotel, the stylish space — with The fish was such a star, the sides chicken breast, a perfectly neutral near a rail viaduct, but it’s only hefty woodblock tables and hot- of onion-garlic purée, refried mole-delivery vehicle. I chose the a short walk from the pyramid. pink accent walls — immediately beans and avocado cream seemed lemon and mint mousse from the Come after 1 p.m.; before then, impressed. I started with the fresh almost like afterthoughts. We comically oversize dessert menu. the menu is quite limited. 2 Oriente “Salpicón de Jamaica” salad, with finished with a satisfying dessert It was light and refreshing, but I 615, Centro, San Pedro Cholula. Tel. tomatoes, local white cheese, of blue-corn sponge cake soaked rather wish I’d opted for the more (52) 222-247-9425. crunchy pickled onion, creamy in eggnog and accompanied by avocado, aromatic oregano and Papantla vanilla ice cream. Rather spicy chipotle vinaigrette. Even than order wine, I opted to try better was my main of suckling some local mezcal with the meal, Visit HideawayReport.com to see our pig confit, with rich, tangy pipián neat. The Candinga Pechuga de 7 Favorite Restaurants in San Miguel de Allende. verde mole. An Augurio cocktail Guajolote con Mole Poblano was

HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2020 15 FIND MORE ON HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM

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Aqua Blu near Komodo Island, Indonesia

New & Noteworthy

Aqua Indonesia Debut yacht is equipped with sophisti- Johannesburg, which today The sophisticated boats of Aqua cated stabilizers and is certified looks after 16 protected areas Expeditions, which ply the waters to the highest levels of safety for in nine African countries. This of the Amazon and Mekong riv- ocean voyages. has attracted the attention of ITALY GUIDEBOOK: COMO CASTELLO DEL NERO / MARTIN MORELL ers, have long been applauded Robin Pope Safaris, an admirable by Hideaway Report members. On Safari in Malawi 35-year-old company based in They have now been joined by a Nowadays, many of the classic Zambia. It now manages the lux- very different vessel, Aqua Blu, safari areas — places like the urious eight-chalet Mkulumadzi a 198-foot yacht that cruises the Maasai Mara in Kenya and the lodge in the 270-square-mile vast Indonesian archipelago. On Serengeti in Tanzania — often Majete Wildlife Reserve, which HIDEAWAY REPORT HOTEL RATINGS seven- and 12-night itineraries, see excessive numbers of visi- contains the Big Five game ani- passengers visit the Maluku tors and vehicles. So people mals, including a population A99-100 — A truly great hotel, among the finest of its kind

Islands (formerly known as the who remember the wild and of black rhino. And in Liwonde AQUA BLU: AQUA EXPEDITIONS in the world Spice Islands) and the exquisite empty Africa of 40 years ago National Park, a four-hour drive A96-98 — An exceptional hotel of Raja Ampat Islands within the tend increasingly to range far- to the northeast, it operates great individuality and distinction famed Coral Triangle, the global ther afield. The country that is Kuthengo Camp, which com- A93-95 — An outstanding hotel center of marine diversity. The currently of particular interest prises just four spacious and of genuine sophistication yacht itself was launched in 1967 to safari aficionados is Malawi. comfortable tents. Malawi will A90-92 — A fine hotel with as the British survey ship HMS Once denuded of wildlife, its appeal to travelers for whom considerable charm about which Beagle. She was the ninth Royal reserves have been restored the feeling of being immersed we have minor reservations Navy vessel to be so named, in by African Parks, a remarkably in untrammeled wilderness is 89 & Below — A hotel that did not honor of the ship that carried effective nonprofit based in integral to the safari experience. meet the required standard Charles Darwin on his momen- Kuthengo Camp, Malawi Find all of our recommended tous five-year voyage around the hotels at HideawayReport.com. world. After 35 years’ service, she was decommissioned and Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published converted into a private yacht. monthly by Andrew Harper, LLC at 4214 Medical Following extensive refurbish- Parkway, Suite 200, Austin, Texas 78756. Periodicals

Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mail- KUTHENGO CAMP: ROBIN POPE SAFARIS / DANA ALLEN ment in 2019, the five-deck Aqua ing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes Blu now offers 15 individually to: Hideaway Report, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax designed, sea-facing suites in (512) 904-7350. MEMBER: If the Post Office alerts three categories, plus a Jacuzzi, us that your periodical publication is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a spa, gym and sundeck, as well corrected address within one year. Copyright 2020 as a dining room featuring the Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, gourmet cuisine for which Aqua reproduction or transmission by any means is prohib- boats are justly renowned. The ited without written permission from the publisher.

Full-service travel planning is available to members at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected].