WINTER DEC–MAR 2018/19 No. 220

Free

WESTERN JAPAN’S PREMIER VISITOR’S GUIDE

Winter Delights Sake, skiing, spas and snowcrab Plus Inside… WHAT’S ON Explore Sights Food & Drink Discover EAT & DRINK A PERFECT LONG BEST SPOTS HOW SAKE IS KINOSAKI’S SEVEN SIGHTSEEING WEEKEND IN NARA FOR WINTER MAKING ITS HEALING SPRINGS SNOWSCAPES COMEBACK MAPS Discover Hiroshima’s Scenic Beauty

YOICHI SHIDAREZAKURA CHERRY BLOSSOM A stunning 12m tall weeping cherry sitting atop a small in Akiota-cho hillock is lit up during its brief, but spectacular spring bloom

OSORAKAN SNOW PARK Japan’s southernmost ski resort, offering long runs for all Breathtaking views, fabulous levels of skiers and snowboarders, as well as snow trekking and igloo building hiking, exciting snow sports and relaxing hot spring accommodation await

SANDANKYO GORGE A stunning 13km river gorge, awarded 3 stars by the French travel guide Blue Guide and selected as one of the top 100 scenic beauty spots in Japan

INI TANADA Picture-perfect terraced paddy fi elds, offering stunning photo opportunities year-round

Nukui Springs Hotel

Offers traditional outdoor hot spring baths overlooking Lake Ryuki in Kyoto Hiroshima’s Akiota-cho. Relax in comfortable western style or Japanese Himeji Okayama Osaka tatami mat rooms and enjoy our award-winning French dining. Akiota-cho Kobe Hiroshima Address: 4692-7, Kake, Akiotacho, Yamgatagun, Hiroshima 731-3501, Japan Tel: +81 (0)826-22-1200 Access: 1 hour by car from Hiroshima IC

RESERVATIONS www.nukui-sp.com CONTENTS 26 Winter Dec / Jan / Feb

10 30

Features KANSAI FINDER 08 23 32 Events & Festivals Kansai’s Snowy Vistas Nara’s Cocktail Kings Where to experience the best of the region’s RASTA MUSICK winter snowscapes. 36 Insider tips on Nara’s best cocktails from a 10 master mixologist. Sights & Attractions 24 38

Sake on the Rise What’s On Guide Art & Exhibitions JULIAN HOUSEMAN Discovering Sake Thinking outside the box is paying off for Sake Sensei visits the Kurakucho brewery this Osaka brewery. in Shiga. 40 16 26 Live Music 42 Hitting the Kansai Slopes Hot-spring Hopping RANDY POEHLMAN CELIA POLKINGHORNE Clubs & Nightlife Alpine skiing options right on our doorstep. Exploring Hyogo’s quaint onsen town of Kinosaki. 44 20 30 Food & Drink A Perfect Long Weekend in Nara 48 Business Talk Onsen, caves, shrines, temples, and of course, hungry deer. An interview with Koichi Kimura, founder of Getting Around / Maps global fashion brand MIKI House. ON THE COVER: KINOSAKI ONSEN, TOYOOKA TOURISM INNOVATION INNOVATION TOURISM TOYOOKA ONSEN, KINOSAKI COVER: THE ON INNOVATION TOURISM TOYOOKA KINOSAKI, AT ONSEN YANAGIYU 26 LEE; DANIEL KIMURA, KOICHI CEO HOUSE MIKI 30 TAPIA; ARTURO ROBERTO BREWERY, DAIMON 10 PAGE: THIS

AND MUCH MORE… CHECK OUT KANSAISCENE.COM  FOR MORE FEATURES AND KANSAI TRAVEL INFO Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 3

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

s we prepare for year- this season, we’ve outlined activi- ABOUT KANSAI SCENE end and New Year ties for a perfect long weekend KANSAI SCENE PROVIDES ENGLISH- celebrations, the time in the prefecture (p.20) as well as LANGUAGE ARTICLES, INFORMATION has come to pull on insider tips on where to get the AND LISTINGS FOR VISITORS AND A the winter woolies, head out- best cocktails in Nara City (p.23). RESIDENTS OF THE KANSAI AREA. doors, and get amongst all that Now is also sake-brewing time KANSAI SCENE IS PUBLISHED BY the chilly season in Kansai has throughout Kansai, and we have a MOJOWORKS KK, WITH SUPPORT FROM CELIA to offer. Whether it’s getting out special feature this issue on moves CB, LTD. POLKINGHORNE to Nakanoshima Island or Osaka a local Osaka brewery is making editor@ kansaiscene.com Publisher...... Daniel Lee Castle Park for winter illumina- to tap into new markets and boost Managing Editor...... Celia Polkinghorne tions (p.33), or really braving the the understanding and appeal of Editor...... Jason Haidar chill and heading to the moun- premium sake locally and inter- Art Director...... Daniel Lee tains for a spot of skiing (p.16) nationally (p.10). Stay up-to-date Production...... Mojoworks KK or a snowy hike to take in some throughout the season with a full Listings Contributors magnificent frozen snowscapes list of events and festivals on the Art...... Brooke Larsen Cinema...... Miyoko Morita (p.08), we’re certain we’ll have Kansai Finder page of our website, Events...... Tomoko Ishii something to pique your interest. and for weekly lists of what’s hap- Live Music...... Phillip Jackson Hot springs are a key part of my pening around the region, sign up Club...... Saiko Fujiwara winter regime, and this time we for our e-newsletters at kansais- take you to the charming onsen cene.com. Wishing you a merry ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES town of Kinosaki for a dip in its Christmas and a happy New Year CB, Ltd seven renowned bathhouses and from the KS team—we hope you Email...... [email protected] Tel...... 03-6260-9125 a taste of its famed crab cuisine have a wonderful start to 2019. (p.26). If you’re heading to Nara GENERAL ENQUIRIES General ...... [email protected] Editorial...... [email protected] NEW YEAR EXTRAVAGANZA Tel...... 06-6539-1717 COUNTING DOWN TO THE NEW Fax...... 06-7635-4791 YEAR WITH LIVE MUSIC AND Address...... Osaka-shi, Nishi-ku, FIREWORKS AT WAKAYAMA ...... Shinmachi 3-5-7, MARINA CITY ...... Eiko Bldg. 2F ...... Mojoworks KK Website...... kansaiscene.com

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Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 5 CALENDAR Seasonal Highlights

ABOVE: REENACTING THE HISTORICAL SAGA OF THE 47 RONIN AT THE AKO GISHIKI FESTIVAL IN HYOGO ABOVE: PARTICPANTS ATTEMPT TO LIFT ENORMOUS DEC 31 meters away in this Osaka MOCHI RICE Dec NEW YEAR’S Shinto ceremony. See The streets of Minami CAKES COUNTDOWN & p.32 for details. (south Osaka) come STARLIGHT ILLUSION alive as brightly DEC 14–25 decorated palanquins BELOW: 2019 UNTIL JAN 14 COLORFUL OSAKA HIKARI- called hoe-kago parade Wakayama MIRACLE ESCHER to Imamiya Ebisu PALANQUINS RENAISSANCE 2018 Celebrate New Year’s WORKS FROM THE Shrine. The parade ARE CARRIED Osaka starts at Soemon- AROUND OSAKA Eve and welcome 2019 ISRAEL MUSEUM Mesmerising with an exciting live cho and travels along IN THE HOE- projection-mapped music show and the Osaka Dotonbori, Ebisubashi, KAGO GYORETSU graphics, seasonal “Starlight Illusion” Dutch graphic Sennichimae-suji, and PARADE illuminations and fireworks display held artist Maurits Takashimaya on its way paper lanterns provide annually at Wakayama Cornelis Escher’s to the shrine. See p.32 a winter spectacle Marina City. See p.35 mathematically for details. in and around the for details. inspired works have Nakanoshima area. See wowed audiences p.33 for details. around the world for JAN 12 decades. Take this KATSUBE FIRE Jan chance to view some FESTIVAL DEC 14 150 of his works, Shiga 47 RONIN FESTIVAL including some of his JAN 2 earliest pieces and Young men dance Hyogo autographed drawings wildly around A colorful period NEW YEAR ARCHERY at the Abeno Harukas bonfires to pray costume parade that CEREMONY Art Museum. See p. 38 for good health at this marks the anniversary Osaka for details. 800-year-old festival of the now legendary held simultaneously 47 samurai heroes who Watch masters of kyudo at two shrines a took revenge on the (Japanese archery) JAN 10 15-minute walk from clad in colorful death of their lord in HOE-KAGO one other. See p.35 the Edo period. See p.15 traditional costumes, for details. for details. aim at a target 60 GYORETSU PARADE

6 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com TOP: NEW YEAR ARCHERY CEREMONY AT MOZU HACHIMANGU SHRINE IN OSAKA BOTTOM LEFT: THOUSANDS OF TORCH- BEARING MEN RUSH DOWN THE STEPS OF KAMIKURA SHRINE IN WAKAYAMA IN THIS FRANTIC CEREMONY BOTTOM RIGHT: KYOGEN PLAYS PERFORMED AS PART OF THIS SETSUBUN FESTIVAL TO WARD OFF CELESTIAL SPIRITS

UNTIL JAN 14 Hundreds of semi- DESIGN FOR A NEW FEB 6 THE ART OF naked male students WAY OF LIFE OTO MATSURI (FIRE PORTRAITURE scramble to get their FESTIVAL) LOOKING hands on religious Kyoto FOR MORE IN THE LOUVRE objects said to bring An exhibition of Wakayama COLLECTIONS good luck at this Viennese turn-of-the- Two thousand men run THINGS Osaka Buddhist event held at century graphic design, down the 538 stone TO DO? Shitennoji Temple. See including pieces by steps from the peak COMPLETE EVENT This exhibition p.18 for details. Gustav Klimt and Josef of Kamikura mountain features some 110 Hoffmann. See p.39 in this frantic torch LISTINGS CAN BE portraits borrowed for details. ceremony. See p.35 FOUND ONLINE AT from the Louvre JAN 26 for details. KANSAIFINDER. Museum collection, WAKAKUSA COM including 3,000-year- FEB 2 & 3 old masks excavated YAMAYAKI SETSUBUN MIBU FEB 23 from Ancient Egyptian Nara coffins, paintings KYOGEN GODAIRIKI-SAN and sculptures 33 hectares of (WEIGHT-LIFTING grassland on Mt. Kyoto representing ancient CONTEST) figures like Marie Wakakusa is turned Short non-verbal, but Antoinette, and into a sea of flames often comical kyogen Kyoto numerous other to herald the coming plays are performed As part of the masterpieces. See p.39 spring in this ancient to celebrate the Godairiki-San for details. Nara tradition. See p.33 traditional holiday ceremony, participants for details. of Setsubun, where attempt to please the ogres and demons are deity of the temple by JAN 14 chased away. See p.33 lifting a gigantic two- for details. DOYA DOYA – Feb layered kagami-mochi (rice cake). See p.33 for BUDDHIST GOOD details. LUCK CEREMONY UNTIL FEB 24 Osaka GRAPHICS IN VIENNA AROUND 1900 – NEW

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 7 DISCOVER 

So rare is it to get more than the Kansai’s Glistening accidental few snowflakes falling in Kansai’s larger cities that urban Snowy Scenes dwellers in these parts could be forgiven for forgetting what a snowflake looks like! Luckily, Five magnificent local snowscapes to pull your however, you don’t have to venture long johns on for this winter. far from Osaka, Kobe, or Kyoto to get a frosty fix this winter. Here are TEXT: KS five picturesque locations around the region that almost always get 1 a generous snowfall, particularly between New Year and spring.

MOUNT KONGO, OSAKA/NARA Situated on the border between Osaka and Nara, Kongosan is the dominant peak in the Kongo Katsuragi range, yet has one of the easier mountain-hiking courses in Kansai. At 1,125 meters—the highest point in Osaka Prefecture— Mount Kongo is one of the most popular places to take in snow views in the region, as well as far-reaching views across Osaka Prefecture. Unlike on many other Kansai mountains in winter, you won’t be alone on the slopes. Lines of people queue up on weekends for buses that drop hikers at the base of the mountain from which you make your way up the wooden steps to the temples and shrines at the top. The main draw is the juhyo— trees glazed with ice—as well as the few inches of snow that lingers on the peak throughout the winter. It is a good idea to bring some small snow spikes or four-point crampons in case the paths are icy and slippery, and if hiking conditions aren’t ideal on the day, you can always ascend the mountain by cable car. ACCESS: TAKE THE NANKAI KOYA LINE FROM NAMBA STATION TO KAWACHINAGANO STATION. FROM THERE, RIDE THE NANKAI BUS FOR ABOUT 35 MINUTES TO THE KONGO TOZAN GUCHI BUS STOP. PHOTO: MOUNT KONGO, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/PL3 KONGO, MOUNT PHOTO:

8 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com PHOTO: MOUNT BUNAGATAKE, NOBU / PIXTA temple cuisine). temple shojin ryori try to achance and life monk into aglimpse allowing overnight, stay to visitors to doors their approximately half of open which temples, 120 the of one in a stay with town fascinating this to trip aday Pair coating. white powdery a with captivating more the all Okunoin moody Kongobuji temple main sect’s Shingon The level. next the to factor mystery the takes mountains Kii the in up high Site Heritage World UNESCO and sanctuary Buddhist Shingon spiritual this at snowfall of anight But sky. the brush and up reach to appear that trees ancientand cedar towering tombstones epic of full graveyard never-ending seemingly its with isn’t enough Koyasan mystical of village temple the if As KOYASAN CABLE CAR. STATION WHERE YOU CHANGE TO THE NAMBA STATION TO GOKURAKUBASHI KOYATRAIN ON THE NANKAI LINE FROM ACCESS: MOUNT KOYA, WAKAYAMA 2 TAKE A LIMITED EXPRESS (traditional vegan vegan (traditional cemetery look cemetery and the the and landscaped gardens. landscaped snow-dusted by surrounded tubspiping-hot cypress-wood in bones chilled your soak and Onsen Kurama of springs) hot rotenburo steamy the for head exploring, of day brisk a of end the At Railway. Electric Eizan the on journey two-minute easy an is Kibune and Kurama between traveling reopens, it Until typhoon. aSeptember by caused damage of aresult as temporarily closed been has Kibune of village Mount Kurama over up paths snowy tranquil you trek can circumstances, Under normal photogenic views. dera Kurama- to staircase the lining lanterns red bright of rows with contrasts powder white pearly The winter. the in time a at weeks for it of smattering a with covered be to city the of north peaks for uncommon not is it and Kyoto, surround that mountains the on longer much lingers usually snow The frozen scenery. majestic its with winter the in alluring especially is Kurama trails, pilgrimage forested peaceful and sites holy of aplethora with location mountain serene Another KURAMA, KYOTO DEMACHIYANAGI STATION. ON THE EIZAN LINE FROM KYOTO’S TAKEACCESS: A TRAIN FOR 30 MINUTES temple for strikingly strikingly for temple 3 and down to the the to down and , but the trail trail the , but (open-air

snowcapped Hira range. Hira snowcapped of the scenic views sweeping offers Bomura to journey bus the peak, the to aclimb attempt you not or whether of Regardless climbers. adventure for options of avariety is there so mountain, the across directions other in off pulling paths several are there but up, went they way same the down come hikers most climbs, winter During top. the to haul afour-hour is it Bomura of village tiny the from approach steep a quite has slope 1,214-meter The climbers. experienced by attempted be only should and however, feat, mean no is snow the in mountain this up Trekking vistas. winter white for spot top Mountains Hira the in peak highest the is Biwa Lake of west the to Bunagatake Mount lofty The Japan. of Sea the from down drift that masses air cold of aresult as months winter the in snowfall with dumped are and peaks those scenery, mountain striking most and summits highest Kansai’s of some boasts Prefecture Shiga MOUNT BUNAGATAKE, SHIGA STATION AND BOMURA (KYOTO BUS 10). BETWEEN KYOTO’S DEMACHIYANAGI INFREQUENT BUSES RUN ACCESS: 4 | WINTER 2018/19|kansaiscene.com Kansai SceneWINTER | , from which which , from and another afternoon. the in 4:45 around at starts months winter in Sunset nightfall. early for plan and possible as day the in early as off • Set headlamp. or flashlight a and device, aGPS maps, detailed drink, ahot with athermos • Pack footwear. waterproof as as well durable thermals and beanies, scarves, gloves, including layers warm • Wear on. so and distances, times, route, including plans, your of someone • Inform Preparation Hiking Winter of Kyoto. of views panoramic in take and on relax to benches with area open an is there point, highest the to up Leading side. safe the on stay to allowed be should time more so difficult, more climbing winter make can ice and snow that awarning but hours, five to entire hike takes three around The trees. winter bare off falling snow of clumps and soles your beneath are iceheard crunching be to sounds only the landscape, snowy still, this On top. the at shrine asacred to slope steep the up way its snakes trail hiking approximately four-kilometer hamletsleepy of Kiyotaki the at Beginning foot. on meters 924 the climb to is there get to way only the and top, the to ride to ropeway no is there Hieizan, Unlike city. the flanking range mountain the of peak highest the Atago, Mount is City, Hiei Mount Shiga’s of west directly mountain, looming Another STATION TO THE VILLAGE OF KIYOTAKI.. TAKEACCESS: A BUS FROM KYOTO MOUNT ATAGO, KYOTO on the other side of Kyoto Kyoto of side other the on 5 , the , the 9 FEATURE

SakeTHE RETURN on the OFRise OSAKA’S DAIMON BREWERY

In an industry steeped in tradition, thinking outside the box is starting to pay off for this small local brewery.

TEXT: JULIAN HOUSEMAN

10 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com iven the ubiquity of sake (or marketing strategies, and engaging so- nihonshu as it also known) in cial-media profiles. Then there are those everyday Japan, one could be that are floundering with a customer G forgiven for thinking of sake base of aging drinkers, an outdated brewing as a thriving industry. How- website, and no idea how to attract new ever, the reality is not so simple. While customers. This reality is what sadly sees slumping sales of low-end table sake at least a couple of breweries go under (think the stuff in packs you see in the each year, which is why it is always supermarket) produced in high volume heartening to see a brewery turn it all is dragging overall numbers down, pre- around and come back from the brink. mium sake consumption is on the rise. Situated in a valley at the foot of the (Premium sake, in this case, being sake Ikoma mountain range in Katano City, that has met the industry criteria for the Osaka sits Daimon Brewery, established production process and the omission in 1826. This location offers access to of secondary ingredients, leaving the locally grown rice and soft, pristine basic ingredients of rice, water, yeast, water that flows from the surrounding koji mold and occasionally, additions of mountains; an ideal environment for distilled alcohol). Consumers, both local sake brewing. and abroad, are enthusiastically coming Yasutaka Daimon, the current and around to the complex and variant fla- sixth-generation president, is a suave vor profiles that premium sake offers. gent, spritely for his 70 years, and fluent This is both an exciting and confusing in English. As the oldest of four chil- time for Japan’s 1,300 or so breweries. dren, his future with the brewery was Some have embraced this new era by never in doubt but before committing to diving into the foreign market, sending the family business, he chose to spread

export volumes soaring over the last his wings with an extended ‘gap year’ TRADITIONAL ARCHITECTURE five to 10 years. Other breweries have traveling to 65 countries over six years LARGE GREEN MOROMI BREWING TANKS LINE successfully tapped into the local youth from 1969 to 1975. It was through these THE WALLS OF THE WOODEN-BEAMED FACTORY

PHOTOS: ROBERTO ARTURO TAPIA ARTURO ROBERTO PHOTOS: market with colorful rebranding, hip travels that Daimon learned English

ABOVE: DAIMON PRESIDENT YASUKATA DAIMON AND CEO, MARCUS CONSOLINI

LEFT: THE BEAUTIFUL STONE STEPS LEADING TO THE BREWERY ENTRANCE

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 11 FLAGSHIP SAKE THEIR PREMIUM DAIMON SERIES RANGE. THE NUMBERS INDICATE THE POLISHING RATIO.

(and some French) and developed his It was during this period of un- affinity for international culture. Upon certainty that Daimon had a chance his return to Osaka, Daimon joined the encounter with New Yorker Marcus brewery, working his way through vari- Consolini who was in Kyoto on a machiya ous administrative and sales roles before (traditional wooden Japanese house) studying the art of brewing. Daimon renovation project. Marcus’ career Brewery enjoyed relative success over background in finance and banking the following decades. In the nineties, along with his 25-year love affair with he began to concentrate on small-batch Japan’s culture, martial arts, and of production: artisanal sake rich in umami course—sake, proved to be the key to (savory taste) to complement the food bringing Daimon Brewery back to life. of Kansai. Later, he was one of the first In 2017, Daimon took a step that was breweries to take on a non-Japanese unprecedented in the sake industry—it brewer and also co-founded the Japan appointed a foreigner as the new CEO of Sake Export Association. Despite these Daimon Brewery. As CEO, Marcus’ sharp successes, Daimon Brewery was not business acumen and assertiveness jux- immune to the industry-wide issue of tapose nicely with Daimon’s laid-back, aging staff. With little interest from old-school approach. In the short time young prospective employees, Daimon since Marcus’ appointment, brewery himself stepped into the role of toji staff has increased from two to six, and HEAD BREWER (head brewer) around 2003. But after sev- a business staff of one has increased to THE HEAD BREWER (TOJI), RYOSUKE UEI, eral years, financial realities and staffing a multi-lingual, international business OVERSEES PRODUCTION. HERE SEEN issues weighed heavily to the point and sales staff of 10. Even Daimon’s PREPARING RICE FOR STEAMING. where he began to question the future sons, who were initially encouraged to of the brewery. look to other career paths, have joined the family business. Together, under this

12 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com TRADITIONAL INTERIORS THE MAIN DAIMON BREWERY BUILDING DATES BACK TO THE 19TH CENTURY BREWERY TOUR JOIN A TOUR WITH AN ENGLISH- SPEAKING GUIDE AND LEARN ABOUT THE SAKE BREWING PROCESS FIRSTHAND

new dynamic, Daimon and Marcus are ing the brewery directly. If you want to striving to re-establish Daimon Brewery settle in for a meal, the onsite brewery and their flagship label Rikyubai in the restaurant Mukune Tei was re-launched sake scene, first locally then globally. this year after a four-year hiatus. Offer- As part of their dedication to letting ing hearty, home-style cooking and a the world know about Osaka sake, cozy, Japanese homestead feel, Mukune Daimon Brewery is also offering the Tei is a comfortable spot for getting unique opportunity of brewing intern- acquainted with the Daimon Brewery ships. Living onsite at the brewery for ethos. Friday nights are sake nights with one week, an intern can gain hands-on a buffet dinner, all-you-can-drink sake, experience in every facet of sake brew- and occasional live music. Saturdays are ing, all explained in English. Anyone open for lunch and dinner and Sundays interested can contact the brewery lunch only. (If you’ve had your fill of directly for details. sake, head downstairs to Marcus’ private If you are eager to try the sake of Dai- whiskey room for some drams and a mon Brewery, go straight to the source cigar!). Keep an eye out in the New Year and join a brewery tour, happening when the restaurant will welcome some Thursday and Friday afternoons from international chefs for guest stints in 3pm for ¥1,500. During the tour, you can the kitchen. Following the success of see step-by-step how the sake is made their Fresh Pressed festival in November, with an English-speaking guide and do April will bring their next open-brewery some sake sampling at the end. Alterna- festival with lots of sake, music, food LABELING tive times may be arranged by contact- and good vibes. BOTTLES OF SAKE BEING LABELED BY HAND

Address: 13-12-1 Mori-Minami, Katano City, Osaka • Access: JR Gakkentoshi line, Kawachi- Find it… Iwafune Station, 7-min walk daimonbrewery.com

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 13 SAMPLE SAKES OR TAKE A SELF- GUIDED TOUR AT GEKKEIKAN IN FUSHIMI, KYOTO. Sake Sampling

If you’re exploring another part of Kansai and are eager to visit a sake brewery, here are some easily accessible options.

Kyoto

A wander around the sake town of Fushimi will bring you to sake behemoth Gekkeikan. Here you can see all manner of sake brewing artifacts with explanations in their Okura Sake Museum. Also, sample sake in their tasting room open from 9am–4:30pm weekdays and 11am–3pm on the second Saturday of each month. Self-guided tours offer a peek into the brewing process for ¥400 from 9am–3pm daily.

Address: 247 Minamihama-cho, Fushimi-ku, Kyoto City Access: Keihan Main Line, Chushojima Station, 5-min walk; Kintetsu Kyoto Line, Momoyama-Goryomae Station, 10-min walk gekkeikan-sake.com

Kobe

The Nada region in Kobe is the largest and arguably most famous sake-producing region in Japan. There are plenty of breweries offering tours in the area, but Kiku Masamune offers something a little different with its preference for utiliz- ing older production methods and maturing sake in cedar bar- rels. Check out the museum daily from 9:30am to 4:30pm, or book online for a free guided tour and tasting of their range. Available times and dates are on the website.

Address: 1-7-15 Mikagehonmachi, Higashinada Ward, Kobe Access: JR Minami Uozaki Station, 2-min walk; Hanshin Uozaki Station, 10-min walk www.kikumasamune.com

Wakayama

On the way out to picturesque Shirahama, Nakano BC in Kainan City offers an informative appointment-only tour of its facilities and immaculately maintained gardens. Here, you can also see the brewing process up close, try some of the sake in their range, and, if you are so inclined, purchase a few bottles to take home.

Address: 758-45 Fujishiro, Kainan, Wakayama Access: JR Kainan Station, 20-min walk www.nakano-group.co.jp/tour/index/en PHOTO: JJ O’DONOGHUE JJ PHOTO:

14 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com FESTIVALS The 47 Ronin Festival A Parade for Ako’s Samurai Heroes

Hyogo’s small town of Ako celebrates being home to one of Japan’s most Dec 14 famous historical stories. Ako Gishisai HYOGO

LOCATION: Ako Castle & Surroundings • DATE: Dec 14 • TIME: 10am–4pm • ADMISSION: Free ecember 14th marks the anniversary of the • ACCESS: JR Banshu-Ako Stn • 47 samurai heroes who took revenge in the city.ako.lg.jp/kensetsu/kankou/ most spectacular and unexpected fashion on akogishisai.html D the death of their lord in the Edo period. As the story goes, a group of samurai was left leaderless (becoming ronin) after their daimyo (feudal lord) Asano Naganori was compelled to commit seppuku (ritual Then, on the 14th day of the 12th month in 1703, suicide) for assaulting a court official named Kira Yoshi- Oishi and the other ronin attacked Kira’s mansion in naka, who had unfairly provoked him. Edo according to a carefully laid-out plan, killing Kira, Instead of avenging their master immediately after and finally avenging their master’s honor. In turn, his death, the ronin bode their time to ensure their at- they were themselves obliged to commit seppuku for tack would be successful. If they had attacked Kira right defying the shogunate’s authority by exacting revenge, after Asano’s death, the ronin would likely have suf- which had been prohibited. They all committed sep- fered defeat, as Kira was ready for a hit at that time. So, puku and died honorably on the same day. Oishi Yoshio, the leader of the samurai group, hatched This is a much-loved national legend and hordes of a plan to throw Kira off and trick him into letting his people flock to the hometown of these heroes—the guard down. small Seto seaside town of Ako in Hyogo Prefecture— His men dispersed and became tradesmen and monks during Ako Gishisai (the 47 ronin festival) held to pay while Oishi took up residence in Kyoto and began to tribute to the great achievement of the samurai group. frequent brothels and taverns as if nothing were further There is a grand parade featuring characters from this from his mind than revenge. Then, more than a year period in elegant costumes, and reenactments of com- later, when Oishi was sure that Kira was thoroughly off bat scenes from the day of the attack. The renowned his guard, he left Kyoto and the entire band of 47 ronin actor Hideki Takahashi will join this year’s parade to gathered at a secret meeting place in Edo to renew play Oishi. their oaths. PHOTO: CITY OF AKO CITY OF PHOTO:

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 15 EXPERIENCE

CarvingTHE KANSAI SLOPES Hit the slopes on a board or skis in Kansai’s snowiest alpine regions.

TEXT: RANDY POEHLMAN

okkaido’s powder snow is ing skiing and snowboarding conditions the cream of the crop when in the surrounding alpine areas. it comes to Japan’s plethora From Kyoto, the closest and most acces- H of winter sports destinations, sible skiing option is a rather small resort but if time or funds don’t permit a trip called Biwako Valley in Shiga Prefecture. to the nation’s northernmost island this On clear, sunny days, skiers are treated season, there is skiing right here on Kan- with views of the vast Lake Biwa which sai’s doorstep. lays at the base of the mountain range. While perhaps not quite on a par with There is a good mix of beginner-friendly the frozen, powder-laden landscapes of runs as well as some technical terrain fea- Nagano, Tohoku, and Hokkaido, Kansai turing moguls and a park with ramps and does have a wintery side. From mid- rails. There are a few forest runs that offer TOP: THE TOP OF THE MOGULS RUN AT BIWAKO December through to mid-March, some of tree-lined trails and limited tree skiing for VALLEY IN SHIGA, WITH the more rural and mountainous pockets those brave enough to carve into it. There LAKE BIWA VISIBLE of the region experience significant snow- is also a ski school attached to the resort BELOW. fall. One thing’s for sure, if it’s snowing in and it is easy to call ahead and book ABOVE: CUTTING FRESH the city, you can be sure there are amaz- classes. The adult daily lift ticket costs TRACKS AMONGST THE PHOTOS: RANDY POEHLMAN RANDY PHOTOS: TREES AT BIWAKO VALLEY.

16 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com SNOWBOARDERS WAITING TO TACKLE THE TERRAIN IN SHIGA.

SNOWBOARDING THE GROOMED TRAILS AT THE TOP OF MANBA IN HYOGO.

approximately ¥5,500. Depending on Also in northern Hyogo Prefecture weather conditions, the resort is expected is Hachi Kita Kogen in Kami city and to open mid-December. You can access the Hachi Kogen in Yabu city, both located resort via JR train from Kyoto Station. Get on opposite sides of Mt. Hachibuse. The off at Shiga Station and take a short shut- resort pair offers a joint lift ticket which tle bus to the base of the ski resort. After provides an excellent day’s skiing. These No gear? renting your gear, a large ropeway takes two ski resorts hail from the 1960s and No Worries! you up the mountain to the slopes. adult lift tickets are about ¥4,500. Hyogo Prefecture boasts some excellent Gifu, although not officially considered Another convenient skiing and snowboarding options. The a part of Kansai, but close enough to aspect of Japanese ski resorts commonly known as “Kannabe” easily access from Kyoto, also offers some culture is that at many in Toyooka are mostly dated but are the top winter sports destinations. Takasu resorts you can rent best option in the prefecture. Hotels, Snow Park located in central Gifu boasts all essential gear. Of houses, and restaurants surrounding the a stellar half pipe that is claimed to be the course, skis, boots, slopes appear to hail from the glory days best in Japan, but the only way to verify is poles, snowboards, of Japanese skiing during the bubble to head out to the mountain and try your helmets, and common economy of the late 1980s. Oku Kannabe, luck. Takasu also offers joint lift tickets rental items are Manba, and Up Kannabe are the three with Dynaland, and the two combined available, but many main resorts in the Kannabe highlands. afford approximately 43 kilometers of resorts also offer They offer joint lift tickets, so you can ski courses. Last year, they added a few tree rentals for ski pants, different resorts with a single day pass, runs to their trail map making this resort jackets, gloves, and providing lots of variety in runs. Kannabe a true gem. Train access to Takasu Snow other warm alpine wear. hosts a range of winter sporting activities Park is limited, and it is also recommend- Call ahead to make including snowshoeing, sledding, snowcat ed that you arrive with your own vehicle sure that your desired rides, and hot-air balloon rides. Oku Kan- or join a bus tour. Takasu adult daily lift equipment and sizes nabe also has floodlights and offers night tickets are around ¥5,000. are available. Ski and skiing. The best aspect of Kannabe is the Takasu Snow Park is also located close snowboard boots are limited crowds and wide-open slopes. to Shirakawa-go, a charming farm village usually available up Daily lift passes for adults in Kannabe cost most picturesque during the winter with to 30cm. around ¥4,500. snow caking the roofs of its distinctive Snow Japan is a Another superb element of Japanese ski A-framed houses. If you are going to ski at valuable resource culture is the widely available onsen (hot Takasu, plan an extra day in your itiner- when planning your springs) that are usually close to ski loca- ary to take in the surrounding towns. Japanese winter tions. Kannabe offers convenient access Takayama is another worthwhile town to sports adventures, to Kinosaki Onsen, regarded as one of check out and trying the beef sushi while featuring reviews, the best hot-spring centers in Japan (read there is a must. snow conditions, costs, all about it on page 26). The onsen town A little further afield in Fukui Prefec- and lots of up-to-date is about a 40-minute drive from the ski ture, Ski Jam—officially known asSki information on all resorts at Kannabe. The Kinosaki tourism Japan Katsuyama—is another popular aspects of snow holidays board recommends traveling in a private snowy destination for Kansai dwellers. It in Japan. vehicle because of the rural nature of the is especially popular with younger skiers SNOWJAPAN.COM area. Public transportation options are and snowboarders and seems to be most available but are rather limited. enjoyed by those in their teens and 20s. One-day adult lift tickets are ¥4,700.

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 17 FESTIVALS

Doya Doya BUDDHIST GOOD LUCK CEREMONY Celebrate the New Year at one of Osaka’s quirkiest festivals.

oya-doya” is a Japanese Shitennoji Temple was founded in Jan 14 onomatopoeia for the 593 by Prince Shotoku, who support- thundering sound ed the introduction of Buddhism to “D made by hundreds of Japan. He named the temple after the Doya Doya stamping feet, which can be heard Shitenno—the four heavenly kings of Festival when a crowd of people bursts into Buddhism who are said to guard the Rokuji Hall at Shitennoji Temple—one world against evil. Though this temple OSAKA of Japan’s oldest Buddhist temples— complex has a long history, most of LOCATION: Shitennoji Temple • DATE: Jan 14 • TIME: 2pm–3:30pm during January’s Doya Doya Festival. the buildings have been destroyed • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: In the course of this rowdy event, by fire and rebuilt several times, and Tanimachi line, Shitennoji-mae hundreds of semi-naked high-school several of the current buildings date Yuhigaoka Stn, 5-min walk • shitennoji.or.jp boys wearing only red or white fun- from the 1960s and 1970s. doshi (traditional loincloths) scramble After the excitement of Doya Doya, to get their hands on religious objects climb the five-story pagoda and take believed to bring good luck. The ac- in views of the area from the top. tion starts just after two o’clock when Then explore the Treasure House, talismans are cast from the beams which contains a number of national of Rokuji Hall and the priests of the treasures including swords said to temple throw cold water at the boys have belonged to Prince Shotoku. as they run. Afterward, stroll through Gokuraku- Doya Doya is performed as the jodo Garden, which was created in closing ceremony of an essential the early Edo Period and is based on ritual held to bring in the New Year, an idea of the Western Paradise of celebrating the end of a 14 day period Amida, with tranquil ponds, water- of worship. In the past, it was said falls, cherry trees, irises, and stone that hanging the charms caught at lanterns. Kame-no-ike pond in the this festival in your family’s rice fields main complex is beloved for its bask- would ward off pests and grant an ing turtles. abundant harvest.

18 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com EXPLORE A PERFECT LONG WEEKEND in Nara

How to see the best of the ancient city and surrounds in a few adventure-filled days. PHOTOS: DEER AT TODAIJI TEMPLE, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM TEMPLE, TODAIJI AT DEER PHOTOS:

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 19 BIG BUDDHA NO TRIP TO NARA COULD BE COMPLETE WITHOUT SEEING est known for old temples, boisterous deer, an expansive park, and a massive THE WORLD’S LARGEST BUDDHA STATUE AT TODAI-JI wooden temple with a giant bronze Buddha statue, Nara is one of Kansai’s TEMPLE IN THE GROUNDS most beloved day trips. But consider the prefecture’s serene gardens, forested OF NARA PARK B mountains, distinctive limestone caves, and tranquil hot-spring retreats, and suddenly you realize you need a weekend or more. If you find yourself headed there this season, follow our tips for a spectacular four-day jaunt in Nara Prefecture.

pagoda of Kofuku-ji temple, once the Day 1 family temple of the powerful Fujiwara aristocratic clan. Then stroll around the Watch the traditional art of willow-lined Sarusawa Pond. mochi-making Roam exquisite Japanese While walking from the JR train station gardens to Nara Park, drop into Nakatanidou Mochi Shop where staff members pride Stroll through a pond garden, a moss themselves on being the fastest mochi garden and a tea ceremony garden on pounders in town! Watch them make the grounds of Yoshiki-en, and at Isui- sticky rice cakes at lightning speed and en, see a prime example of shakkei—the sample the goods afterward. Japanese concept of borrowed scen- ery—with Mt. Wakakusa serving as the garden’s backdrop. Explore shrines and temples EXQUISITE GARDENS leading to Nara Park Browse Buddhist STROLL AROUND THE POND AT Stop off at the small, quaint Isagawa- decorative art YOSHIKI-EN GARDEN jinja—Nara’s oldest shrine (established in 593)—renowned for parents visiting See archaeological objects and Buddhist to pray for their children’s well-being. artworks at the Nara National Museum. Next, snap a photo with the five-storied

20 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com DEER SNACKS NARA PARK IS FAMOUS FOR ITS DOE-EYED DEER, WILLING YOU TO FEED THEM A PACKET OF THEIR FAVORITE SHIKA SENBEI CRACKERS

Picnic in Nara Park then visit Day 2 Shop for souvenirs in the big Buddha Naramachi Open a bento (lunch box) on the expan- Do a lap around Sagiike pond Hit the historic Edo-era streets of sive grounds of Nara Park. Watch out Naramachi, the towns former merchant for curious, hungry deer (and purchase Take in misty morning views of the hex- district, and roam past machiya (tradi- some deer crackers if you’re up for feed- agonal wooden structure of Ukimido tional wooden buildings) while shopping ing them). Then go to the famed Todai-ji Pavilion, which appears to float on top for local souvenirs like Narazuke pickle temple housing a 15-meter-high bronze of the water, on an early-morning stroll cookies, sweet ararezake liqueur, or high- Buddha statue known as Daibutsu—the around Sagaiike. quality Nara fude makeup brushes. world’s largest. Hike trails in the Kasugayama *Every February in the week running up to Valentine’s Day, the Nara National Museum, Todaiji Temple, and Forest Kasuga Shrine are lit up from 6pm to 9pm each night. Hike the 11.5km course winding through Mt. Kasuga Primeval Forest See a sunset from Todai-ji’s past maple trees and ancient cedars with vistas over Nara Park and the city. Nigatsu-do Hall Stop off at Kasuga-taisha, a shrine on Take in dusky orange hues then views the east side of Nara Park, which dates of Nara City’s glimmering nightscape back to 768 A.D., and is illuminated with from the lantern-lit platform of Nigatsu- more than 3,000 lanterns. do Hall. Eat persimmon-leaf sushi *Panoramic views can be seen from the top of MT. WAKAKUSA on the northern side of Nara Park; however, Try the famous pressed sushi wrapped in KAKINOHA ZUSHI the mountain is closed to climbers between December persimmon leaves made with preserved and March. But visitors to Nara on the fourth Saturday of fish called kakinoha-zushi at vendors like TRY THIS TRADITIONAL January can witness the WAKAKUSA YAMAYAKI, an annual Hirasou, one of the oldest persimmon- NARA DELICACY - festival during which the mountain is set on fire. PRESERVED FISH leaf sushi companies in Nara founded SUSHI WRAPPED IN A 150 years ago. PERSIMMON LEAF PHOTOS: BUDDHA AT TODAIJI TEMPLE, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/VANBEETS; YOSHIKI-EN GARDEN, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/ TUPUNGATO; DEER IN NARA PARK, PARK, NARA IN DEER TUPUNGATO; ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/ GARDEN, YOSHIKI-EN ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/VANBEETS; TEMPLE, TODAIJI AT BUDDHA PHOTOS: KAKINOHAZUSHI, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/C11YG ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/JUNCE; CRACKERS, DEER ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/YY306760;

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 21 LEFT: MT. YOSHINO OFFERS SCENIC TRAILS AND FANTASTIC VIEWS YEAR ROUND ABOVE: KORIYAMA CASTLE

Day 3 Day 4 Photograph the buildings and gardens of Koriyama Castle Climb Mount Yoshino Check out Dorogawa’s Snap pictures of the photogenic Bishamon Kuruwa before crossing a Hike scenic forested trails up Yoshinoy- limestone caves glass-bottomed walkway from which ama stopping at old temples, quaint Explore one of the cavernous lime- you can view the excavated remains of cafes, and quirky souvenir vendors along stone formations near Dorogawa, like the original Koriyama Castle. the way. Goyomatsu Limestone Cave, which is reached via a tiny monorail through Eat dinner at a Michelin-star Stay in a Ryokan with a hot the forest. soba restaurant spring Roam the grounds of Soba, or buckwheat noodles, may sound Experience traditional Japanese hospital- pretty standard, but restaurant Gen ity, accommodation, and kaiseki course Kashihara Shrine takes this classic Japanese dish to a meals while staying overnight at a Wander through the impressive grounds Michelin-star level. The zaru-soba, cold ryokan (inn) and soak in the indoor and of Kashihara-jingu dedicated to the first noodles dipped in a light soy sauce, is open-air hot-spring pools of Doroga- Emperor and the origin of civilization a favorite. wa Onsen. in Japan, situated in a preserved forest sanctuary at the base of Mount Unebi. Have a nightcap at a cocktail bar

Sip on fancy drinks at a specialty cocktail bar like Nara Lamp Bar (more details on p 23).

Nakatanidou Mochi Shop 29 Hashimotocho, Nara City; nakatanidou.jp/english • Isagawa Shrine 18 Honkomoricho, Nara City; isagawa-jinja.jp/en • Kofuku Find it… Temple 48 Noboriojicho, Nara City; visitnara.jp/venues/A00486 • Sarusawa Pond 49 Sarusawa, Ojicho, Nara; visitnara.jp/venues/A01559 • Yoshiki-en 60-1 Noboriojicho, Nara; visitnara.jp/venues/A00492 • Isui-en 74 Suimoncho, Nara; isuien.or.jp/en • Nara National Museum 50 Noboriojicho, Nara; narahaku.go.jp/english • Nara Park nara-park.com • Todai-ji 406-1 Zoshicho, Nara; todaiji.or.jp/english • Sagiike/Ukimido Pavilion 1194 Takabatakecho, Nara City; visitnara.jp/venues/A01113 • Mt. Kasuga Primeval Forest Nara Okuyama Driveway, Setarincho, Nara; nara-park.com/en/spot/mt-kasuga • Kasuga Shrine 160 Kasuganocho, Nara; nara-park.com/en/spot/kasugataisha • Hirasou 30-1 Imamikadocho, Nara City; hiraso.jp/lang/english.html • Naramachi Yamatokoriyama, Nara; visitnara.jp/destinations/area/naramachi • Mount Yoshino Yoshino District, Nara Prefecture; visitnara.jp/destinations/area/yoshino • Dorogawa Onsen 13-1 Dorogawa, Tenkawa-mura, Yoshino; visitnara.jp/destinations/area/dorogawa • Kashihara Shrine 934 Kumecho, Kashihara, Nara; kashiharajingu.or.jp • Koriyama Castle 2 Jonaicho, Yamatokoriyama City; japan.travel/en/spot/1000 • Gen 23-2 Fukuchiincho, Nara City; visitnara.jp/ venues/D00188 • Nara Lamp Bar 26 Tsunofuricho, Nara City; Facebook: LAMP BAR PHOTOS: MT. YOSHINO, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/MEIKYOU; KORIYAMA CASTLE, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/DANIELDEP CASTLE, KORIYAMA ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/MEIKYOU; YOSHINO, MT. PHOTOS:

22 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com KANSAI INSIDER Nara’s Cocktail

MICHITO KANEKO IS AN AWARD WINNING Kings MIXOLOGIST AND OWNER OF THE LAMP BAR IN NARA Insider tips from master mixologist Michito Kaneko on finding the best cocktails in Nara.

TEXT: RASTA MUSICK BELOW: ONE OF KANEKO’S SIGNATURE COCKTAILS ‘THE BEGINNING’

ara is probably best known for and martinis in particular. Old Time is its abundant deer and its giant located in Hotel Fujita, near Sanjo-dori. Buddha statue, but it also boasts In Nara Hotel’s The Bar, keep an eye out N some top spots for cocktails. for bartender Tsuyoshi Miyazaki. Kaneko Master bartender Michito Kaneko owns and met Miyazaki in 2010 when they worked runs Lamp Bar, which is a two-minute walk together at Nara Hotel. The two of them from Kintetsu Nara Station. He’s been work- became fast friends. Miyazaki specializes in ing in the field of mixology since the age of wine-flavored cocktails. He won Japan’s na- 20. In 2015, he beat more than 10,000 com- tional mixology competition in 2013 and is petitors from around the world to win the a master mixologist with many years’ expe- World Class competition, a bartending tour- rience. The bar is located on the first floor nament. Since then, he has traveled around of the main building of the Nara Hotel, near the world hosting mixology seminars. Kintetsu Nara Station. This hasn’t stopped him from refining The Sailing Bar is where you can find and improving his own techniques, though. bartender Takumi Watanabe, another friend The Lamp Bar has no menus. Many custom- of Kaneko. Both committed to honing their ers opt to order one of Kaneko’s specialties craft, the two have known each other since – such as Amber Time, Union, or Japanese Kaneko started bartending and have worked Sensory – or request to be surprised, and together many times in the past. Like the delighted, by the bartender’s choice of crea- others, Watanabe has a stellar reputation in tion. A heads up that no menu also means bartending. He was the 2010 first-place win- no prices, and all that creative class costs ner of Japan’s national bartending competi- some cash, so be prepared to spend at least tion. Kaneko suggests trying the Botanical ¥2,000 per drink. A generous host and a Garden, a martini special of Watanabe’s. man of many friends, Kaneko recommends The Sailing Bar is located 15 minutes from several other great bars in Nara. Sakurai Station. At Old Time, Yutaka Haba, described Whether you are planning a visit to Nara by Kaneko as a “legendary bartender,” has or are already there, take the time to treat been Kaneko’s mentor and guide since yourself to a beverage created and served Kaneko first started bartending. Haba is by award-winning bartenders who have well-known in the Nara bartending scene, devoted their lives to mastering the art and Kaneko recommends trying his gimlets of mixology. PHOTOS: ROBERTO ARTURO TAPIA ARTURO ROBERTO PHOTOS:

THE LAMP BAR INTERIOR

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 23 SAKE SENSEI’S

IN THE SECOND PART OF OUR EXPLORATION Brewery Adventures INTO THE WORLD OF SAKE, WE TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT THE BREWING PROCESS ITSELF—A LABOR-INTENSIVE 1 PROCESS REQUIRING KEEN ATTENTION TO DETAIL. SO, JUST HOW IS IT MADE? RICE POLISHED

POLISHING RICE WASHING & STEEPING SUPPORTED BY: 2 THE JAPAN SAKE SOCIETY 3

KOJI KOJI-KIN

5 4th Day WATER

3rd Day 1 4 st 1st Day Day Only No. 411 WATER MOROMI YEAST STEAMING 6 SHUBO 7 Finish!

SAKE KASU 酒

PRESSING FILTRATION PASTEURIZATION STORAGE BOTTLING

The Sake Brewing Process

1. POLISHING 3. MAKING KOJI 5. THE MASH—MOROMI separate the sake lees—the Premium rice, invariably the Some of the steamed rice is then The shubo is then moved to solids, or sake kasu—from the Yamada Nishiki variety, is first used to create koji—rice that larger tanks, and yet more rice, liquid. Before being pressed, polished incredibly slowly has been cultivated with special koji (from a different batch), and however, distilled alcohol may (sometimes for as long as mold spores called aspergillus brewing water are added in three be added to the moromi to 50–60 hours) in industrial milling oryzae. The koji is left to incubate successive stages over a four- draw more flavor and aroma machines to remove the husks, in temperature- and humidity- day period, a process known as compounds from the lees. The proteins, and other impurities controlled rooms (koji muro) sandan shikomi. Once completed, amount of distilled alcohol added that may adversely affect the from 36–72 hours in stacks the mash will be left to work its (if any at all) depends on the taste. The degree to which it of linen-covered trays. The magic. The koji will convert the type of sake being produced. is polished varies between koji is continuously monitored starch in the rice into glucose, Sake with no additional alcohol 30–60% of the kernel remaining, and mixed by hand at regular which the yeast will then use added is called junmai sake. The depending on the type of sake to intervals with clinical efficiency. to create alcohol and carbon sake lees make up about 25% be brewed. dioxide. The conversion of starch of the moromi and the excess to sugar and sugar to alcohol sake kasu is often used as a 4. PREPARING THE YEAST takes place in parallel, all in nutritional cooking ingredient, so nothing goes to waste. 2. WASHING, STEEPING AND STARTER—THE SHUBO the same tank. This is known as STEAMING “multiple parallel fermentation,” The finished koji, steamed rice, and is a process that is unique to The milled white rice is carefully and water are combined in small sake brewing. 7. FILTRATION AND washed by hand and allowed to vats, and liquid yeast is added. PASTEURIZATION steep before being steamed. The The temperature of this mini The sake is then filtered, amount of time it is left to soak mash is controlled by inserting 6. PRESSING up water depends on the extent metal vessels filled with either pasteurized, and placed in to which it has been polished in hot or cold water as required Once the moromi is completely cold storage where it matures the first step. Highly milled rice for optimum fermentation. The fermented, the resulting sake before being bottled. Sake that may only need a few minutes to shubo is left to bubble away for is still a viscous gloop of ricey is unpasteurized is known as steep, whereas less polished up to two weeks. goodness, rather than a fine namazake, and has a sparkling rice may require several hours clear liquid. In order to produce freshness requiring it to be or to be left overnight. It is all clear sake, it must be passed stored chilled. precisely measured. through an industrial press to ILLUSTRATION: TIM WILKINSON TIM ILLUSTRATION:

24 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com PHOTOS: DANIEL LEE M produces. Suchisherdedication is thequalityofsakeKirakucho she takesinhertradeisevident, as the drinktobeginners.Thepride published abookthatintroduces brews, andearlierthisyear, even makers toreleaselimited-edition collaborates withotheryoungsake conventions aroundtheworld,she new generation. dedicated topromotingsakea passionate andyouthfulmovement and, atjust28yearsold,ispartofa female sakebrewers inthecountry ther. Sheisoneofonlyahandful under thewatchfuleye ofherfa- Kirakucho Kirakucho As wellastraveling tosake other dishes. Western and carpaccio including well appetizers, with Highly aromatic and pairs (大吟醸) 1. Daiginjo Selection Sensei’s (brewery) inruralShiga, this 200-year-oldkura sake productionat ayuko Kitaoversees 喜楽長 2. Karakuchi Junmai Ginjo Ginjo Junmai Karakuchi 2. goes well with sashimi. sashimi. with well goes sake this koji, the from sweetness derived a with yet dry, and Sharp (辛口 純米吟醸)

she says. only begoodforKirakuchotoo,” “What isgoodfortheindustry, can who itisfor, andhow toenjoy it. public’s perceptionofwhatsakeis, sake generallycanhelpchangethe ing andawareness campaignsfor change, butthatefforts inmarket- that sakeitselfdoesn’tneedto ship productsherself.Shebelieves red-and-black labelsfortheirflag- ness, even designingthestriking dirty withallaspectsofthebusi- ing season. brewers duringthewinterbrew- dorms above themashtanksasher that sheeven sleepsinthesame kirakucho.jp Tel: 0748-22-2505 Shiga-ken, Higashiomi-shi,Ikeda-cho1129 Mayuko iskeentogetherhands KANSAI KURA CLOSEUP 3. Tokujun other bolder dishes. and foods izakaya with well pairs that sake A robust (特純) 4. Junmai Daiginjo Daiginjo Junmai 4. other red meat. and steak with well pairs that sake A premium (純米大吟醸) | WINTER 2018/19|kansaiscene.com Kansai SceneWINTER | FORGING A PATH FOR OTHERS TO FOLLOW. LINES UNDER THEIR OWN BRAND, THUS TO REASSESS AND BEGAN PRODUCING PREMIUM MARKET WANED, HOWEVER, THEY WERE FORCED STOCK FOR IN KYOTO. GEKKEIKAN AS THE SAKE THE LOCAL COMMUNITY—BREWING ITS BEST IT STARTED OUT JUST SELLING BASIC SAKE TO THE REGION. LIKE MANY SHIGA BREWERIES, LIGHT IN THE RENAISSANCE OF SAKE ACROSS SHIGA, KIRAKUCHO CONTINUES TO BE A LEADING ONE OF THE MOST WELL-KNOWN BREWERIES IN SENSEI SAYS 5. Junmai Daiginjo Itoushi stews. stews. and dishes sweeter offsets perfectly that dryness A delicate (愛おし) 25 DISCOVER

A HOTKinosaki SPRING A DAY

Discover healing thermal pools and exquisite snow-crab cuisine for the perfect cold-weather remedy.

TEXT: CELIA POLKINGHORNE

THE PHOTOGENIC, MOMOYAMA-STYLE ARCHITECTURE OF THE ICHINO-YU hey say an apple a day keeps the doctor There are now many hot springs dotted around BATH ECHOES THE away, but in Kinosaki, they substitute ap- this quaint canal village in Hyogo Prefecture lined GRANDEUR OF A ples for hot springs, boasting a restorative with cherry and willow trees and teeming with KABUKI THEATER T onsen for every day of the week. Like so traditional wooden ryokan (inns) with their own many beloved Japanese locales, there is a nostalgic private onsen. The most famous, however, are the origin myth attached to Kinosaki Onsen. As the seven public baths esteemed for their remedial legend goes, back in the Asuka period during the properties and promises of good fortune (bathing seventh century, an injured Oriental white stork in the healing Kouno-yu, for instance, is said to landed in the marshes of the area and healed bless your marriage with happiness and longevity). its wounds. Many years later, bathhouses were The water is rich in sodium, calcium, and chloride, constructed over these sites to make the curative a blend purportedly ideal for alleviating muscle waters accessible to people, and this is when the and joint aches, digestive disorders, and skin condi- oldest onsen in the town—Kouno-yu, or ‘stork tions. People have been coming in droves to bathe bath’—was built. in these cherished springs since the Buddhist priest

26 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com PHOTOS: © TOYOOKA TOURISM INNOVATION tranquil Japaneseonsentown to love aboutstaying ina en clogs). in geta(traditionalwood- bath whilegettingabout your way tothefamedstork it may takelongertomake on whereyoustay, however, 15-minute walk.Depending from thestation—abouta Kouno-yu beingthefurthest can bereachedonfoot,with one another, bathhouses few hundredmetersfrom the baseofMountDaishi,a Kinosaki OnsenStationand eighth-century Naraperiod. attention tothemduringthe Dochi Shoninfirstbrought One ofthelittlethings Spread outbetween and soakyourwearyfeet. out ofyourwoodenslippers streets whereyoucanslide foot spasonthelantern-lit step. Thereareeven public echoing click-clackwitheach clunky sandals,hearingthe while moseying alonginthe being forcedtoslow down something therapeuticabout historic Kinosaki,andthere’s becomes thenormwhilein streets inpajamassuddenly equivalent ofwalkingthe What wouldnormallybethe at innsandguesthouses. on getathatareprovided white tabisocks,andslip- a cottonyukata(bathrobe), esque narrow laneways in is meanderingthepictur- CHILDBIRTH. PROMOTE FERTILITY AND SAFE THIS ONE, YANAGI-YU, SAID TO TO TAKE A DIP IN, INCLUDING THERE ARE SEVEN PUBLIC BATHS ONSEN HOPPING most renowned hotsprings. and tryingoutthetown’s ing attheclassicarchitecture stroll), roamingaroundgaz- favor ofasotoyumeguri(bath skip theirryokan’sonsenin modation. Many guestseven provided by theiraccom- special passcalledayumepa free duringtheirstay witha seven publicbathhousesfor local inncanuseKinosaki’s In fact,anyone staying ata town asonegiantryokan. visitors tothinkoftheentire eat themonthespot. steamy water, boilthem,and (hot-spring eggs)inthe mesh bagofonsentamago If youfancy, youcandipa Kinosaki localsencourage | WINTER 2018/19|kansaiscene.com Kansai SceneWINTER |

considered unclean. unclean. considered is it as water the in fall doesn’t it sure make but nearby, it leave or do locals the like head your of top the on folded it place You can bath. the leaving when off drying for meant accommodation is your at given towel small • The bathing area. the entering before bandage or a plaster with tattoos any cover Japanese onsen, so in upon frowned often are • Tattoos hot-spring pool. a entering before facilities shower the using body your wash thoroughly to sure be and area, bathing the inside worn be should suits bathing or clothing • No funeral! a Japanese for dressed be you’ll else or it, underneath tucked side right the with outside the on is yukata your of side left the (Ensure accommodation. your by provided towel bath large and asmall bring and geta wooden and socks, tabi yukata, hopping, don your • onsen- While period. Nara the eighth-century during springs the to attention brought first who Shonin Dochi priest Buddhist the to thanks give to so do to customary was it past, the In bathing. before aprayer say to the temple Onsenji visiting • Consider Etiquette Onsen

27 Snow Crab Specialty

When layers of icy sleet or even mounds of pow- dery snow line Kinosaki’s canals, icicles freezing The Seven Public Baths to the twigs and branches of bare winter trees, you know you have arrived in the hot-spring Satono-yu, situated nearest to a kabuki theater and features an haven during the snow-crab season. Kinosaki the train station, is the largest outdoor cave bath. Private family of the town’s bathhouses with a baths can be reserved for ¥3,000 has a long, proud tradition of delectable crab huge variety of indoor and outdoor per 40 minutes. (kani) cuisine and winter in this town is bliss for baths as well as waterfalls, mist HOURS: 7am–11pm • CLOSED: Wed • Entry seafood lovers. rooms, and saunas. The male and (without yumepa): ¥600 female sides switch daily between Many of the ryokans offer exquisite kaiseki Japanese and Roman style. Goshono-yu (‘imperial palace (Japanese haute cuisine) multi-course crab meals, bath’) is one of Kinosaki’s bigger HOURS: 1pm–9pm • CLOSED: Mon • Entry which are works of edible art, but there are also (without yumepa): ¥800 bathhouses whose architecture was inspired by the Kyoto Imperial several top-notch seafood restaurants around the Jizo-yu is designed to resemble Palace. The bath areas and sauna town to choose from. Matsuba crab is the local a Japanese lantern and is named feature large windows that look out name for the male snow crab harvested from the after a Buddhist deity that onto waterfalls. Outdoor bathing watches over children. Its waters areas are made from natural Sea of Japan and its plump, sweet flesh is served are believed to bestow safety boulders with underwater seats to steamed, raw as sashimi, or even grilled at the and prosperity on families. This sit on and take in the lush scenery. table in front of you. Crab hot pot is a standard onsen features high ceilings and HOURS: 7am–11pm • CLOSED: 1st & 3rd as is crab sushi and tempura. The fullest flavors, a contemporary interior. Private Thursday of the month • Entry (without family baths can be booked for yumepa): ¥800 though, come from the kani miso delicacy—crab ¥3,000 per 40 minutes. innards pounded into a miso-like paste and often Mandara-yu is the only onsen HOURS: 7am–11pm • CLOSED: Fri • Entry served in the main body of the shell. (without yumepa): ¥600 situated away from the main road of Yunosato Dori. Often said to be For any non-seafood-lovers, Kinosaki has Yanagi-yu (‘willow bath’) is the most attractive of the public another prized local specialty in its Tajima beef. the town’s smallest public baths, Mandara-yu offers a very onsen with the hottest water serene hot-spring experience. The Kobe beef, considered the highest quality in the and is said to promote fertility waters of Mandara-yu are believed world—known for its tenderness, rich flavor, and safe childbirth. It is built to bring prosperity in business and high-density marbling—refers to cuts from from cypress wood and has a and agriculture. specially selected Tajima cattle. Choose from tasty traditional atmosphere. There is HOURS: 3pm–11pm • CLOSED: Wed • Entry a small ashiyu (foot bath) next to (without yumepa): ¥600 steak, curry, stew, and deep-fried cutlet sets, or its entrance. sukiyaki and shabu-shabu hot-pot courses. Local Kono-yu is situated near the HOURS: 3pm–11pm • CLOSED: Thu • Entry chefs will even wow vegetable lovers by working (without yumepa): ¥600 entrance to the ropeway that goes up Mount Daishi. It features an culinary magic with obscure roots and greens like Ichino-yu is the lucky bath outdoor bath with a view of the fox turnip, kogomi (fiddlehead ferns), and butter- thought to bring success in school surrounding forests and is said and safety while traveling. The to bring good luck for a long and bur. Vegetarians and vegans appreciate the fresh photogenic, Momoyama-style happy marriage. fruit-and-vegetable smoothies at Kinosaki Juice building echoes the grandeur of Saika and thoughtful plant-based meals at Cafe & Bar 3rd near the station.

Getting There You can travel to Kinosaki Onsen Station via limited-express JR trains from Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe, and Himeji. The Japan Rail Pass and Kansai Wide Rail Pass are valid on these routes. Visitors who do not stay overnight can purchase the yumepa ticket for ¥1,200, which provides unlimited admission to all seven public baths on one calendar day. The ticket can be purchased at any of the bathhouses. VISITKINOSAKI.COM PHOTOS: SNOW CRABS, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/AKKHARAT JARUSILAWONG; ALL OTHERS © TOYOOKA TOURISM INNOVATION TOURISM TOYOOKA © OTHERS ALL JARUSILAWONG; ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/AKKHARAT CRABS, SNOW PHOTOS:

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* Posting requires a user account. Posting basic ads is free. For featured (paid) listings, payment is accepted via Stripe, PayPal or bank transfer. BUSINESS TALK What the Kids are Wearing From milk deliveryman to CEO of an international kids’ clothing brand, Kansai native Koichi Kimura knows a thing or two about building a business from the ground up. Founder of MIKI House, a global fashion brand since 1971 with its origins in Kansai, Mr. Kimura sat down with us at his Yao headquarters to talk about how it all began.

INTERVIEW & TEXT: KS

30 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com MIKI House has grown into a global brand since you started it nearly half a century ago. Did you set out to achieve this, or has it hap- pened organically? There was never a plan per se. I have al- ways stuck to my core beliefs and played the cards I was dealt with. When I first started, out I simply wanted to support my family. It wasn’t about setting out to make a global operation at all. Things just took their natural course. A lot of the decisions I made along the way were often a matter of fortuitous timing, and perhaps a little bit of destiny.

What made you enter the business of kids’ fashion? When I began, my wife was pregnant and had gone off to live with her mother—as is the custom in Japan— “If I had walked away How has the online shopping boom leaving me with a lot of time on my affected your business? hands. Kids’ clothes were obviously after every knockback, Internet shopping is very convenient, of on my mind, but the quality of items none of this would have course. I think there is a place for both available was often poor, or unattractive. been possible.” online and traditional stores, however. Everything had to be bought in separate Most of our retail outlets are in the big stores. Shoe shops, swaddling shops, cities, so being able to reach customers I was refused countless times but kept outdoor-wear stores, etc. I saw a gap in via our online store is crucial, especially going back until they agreed. If I had the market for a range of baby and kids if you simply want to exchange an item walked away after every knockback, clothes that were totally coordinated. for one size smaller/larger, etc. We sell none of this would have been possible. A hat and a pair of shoes to go with our items online, but only domestically. I had confidence in my products, but it a dress for example—all matching or It is one of our growing departments. complementing each other. I bought was often the fact that I was from Osaka that proved hardest to overcome. “Oh, material and hired local housewives to Your headquarters are in Yao city, we only sell products from Tokyo…” was sew the patterns for me. In those days, in the southeast of Osaka prefec- what I heard a lot. Changing people’s every household had a sewing machine ture. Are there any local sights you opinions was hard at first. and often a highly skilled pair of hands would recommend? to operate them. The quality of their Yao? (laughs). Apart from our store By 1987, you had opened stores in samples was astounding. I knew I was downstairs, there isn’t a lot here. When Hong Kong, the U.S., and France. on to something. I built this building (at huge expense), What do you think is the appeal of and ordered the basement to be turned your products outside of Japan? Why do you think you have been so into a showroom/store, my staff thought The quality. It was always my mission to successful where others have failed? I was crazy. “No-one will come to Yao!” produce the finest quality items. That Probably because of my single-minded- they said. “Better to build a carpark for means our clothes are expensive, but I ness! I was delivering milk in the early the workers.” But I was adamant. We will not compromise on quality, ever. mornings to subsidize my new business had to have a flagship store, I believed. in the early days, getting up at 4:30 am Now we have MIKI House fans coming Which is your fastest-growing region to do my round and then back to work from all over the world to shop here. outside of Japan? on my clothing business during the day. There is a limited selection in the de- China is our biggest market right now, I traveled all over Japan, working my partment stores, of course, but here we along with Taiwan and Hong Kong. way up from Kyushu with my samples have the entire range. and knocking on the doors of prominent The birthrate in Japan is down to just clothing stores in each area I visited. 9 million from 25 million when we Once I had pinpointed the stores that started, compared to China where it is stocked only the best items, I wanted now a massive 180 million. That’s a lot of babies. PHOTOS: DANIEL LEE DANIEL PHOTOS: them to sell my clothes, no matter what.

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 31 Free ADMISSION: ADMISSION: Hankai Uemachi Uemachi Hankai JR Hanwa Line, Mozu , aim at a target 11am–Noon • ACCESS: ACCESS: ARASHIMAYAMA ARASHIMAYAMA (STREET HANATOUROU LIGHTING) TIME: Saga & Arashiyama • Dec 8–17 Explore the dimly lit atmospheric the in paths classical neighborhoods of Saga and Arashiyama. Togetsukyo Bridge, the ever popular tourist spot will be illuminated, diffusing light onto the kyudo 60 meters away in this The ceremony. Shinto event follows a traditional sequence from the archery school of Heki, featuresand participants, who are practicing kyudo masters from Osaka wearing Prefecture, vividly traditional colored Typically, costumes. ceremonies a use shinto 30-meter target range, event this which makes an especially good opportunity to watch Japanese archery. Kyoto 嵐山花灯路 • Stn, 10-min walk • mozu8.com Free • ADMISSION: ADMISSION: ADMISSION: 11am • 11am Osaka Subway WHITE HORSE CEREMONY HORSE WHITE OSAKA TIME: 白馬神事 7 Jan • Taisha Sumiyoshi Sumiyoshi to ceremony unique this In Shrine, a white horse adorned with celebratory gear is guided by priests while circuiting the four main areas of the the around galloping then grounds shrine shrine precinct. This ceremony is based on a ritual from the Heian period (794 to when1185) the imperial court believed one would receive good fortune if they saw a white horse in the beginning of the year. Line, Sumiyoshitoriimae Stn; Nankai Line, Sumiyoshi Sumiyoshi Line, Nankai Stn; Sumiyoshitoriimae Line, sumiyoshitaisha.net/en • walk 3-min Stn, Taisha – from the (traditional ACCESS: 2pm–3:30pm • NEW YEAR ARCHERY ARCHERY YEAR NEW CEREMONY TIME: 古式弓道射初式 Shrine Hachimangu Mozu • Jan 2 Watch the masters of Japanese archery, or 修正会結願法要（どやどや） Jan • Temple Shitennoji 14 fascinating this festivalIn Temple, Shitennoji at held hundreds of semi-naked studentsmale scramble to get their hands on religious objects said to bring good luck. This calledBuddhist is event Doya Doya sound made by hundreds of stamping feet – and is performed as the closing essential an ceremony of ritual held to bring in the New The Year. real action starts a little after 2pm when talismans are cast from the beams in the Rokujido Hall. At this point, young men wearing nothing but white loincloths, red headbands, and tabi Japanese socks) jostle with one another to catch lucky charms.the Free • Tanimachi Line, Shitennoji-mae Shitennoji-mae Line, Tanimachi Yuhigaoka Stn, 5-min walk • shitennoji.or.jp Free • applauding applauding theater make make theater ADMISSION: ADMISSION: , and puppets from Osaka Subway / Nankai / parade to Imamiya 10am • HOE-KAGO GYORETSU HOE-KAGO GYORETSU PARADE DOYA DOYA – BUDDHIST BUDDHIST – DOYA DOYA CEREMONY LUCK GOOD TIME: ACCESS: Ebisubashi-suji & & Ebisubashi-suji Surroundings, Osaka • Jan 10 The streets of Minami (south Osaka) come alive as brightly decorated palanquins called hoe- kago Ebisu Shrine. Join in on the fun as national celebrities, beautiful geisha the bunraku their way through the streets as the crowds cheer them on. The parade starts at Soemon- cho and travels along Ebisubashi, Dotonbori, Sennichimae-suji, and Takashimaya on its way to the shrine. With shrine bearers roaring and shouting to fire up the crowds and women in kimono festive and encouraging the spectacle, streets the take on an exciting, festive rivalsatmosphere that festivalany Japan. in 宝恵かご行列 Kintetsu Namba Stn • ebisubashi. or.jp ADMISSION:

Cultural 

Osaka Subway Tanimachi Subway Tanimachi Osaka 5pm–10pm • OSAKA CASTLE ILLUMINAGE TIME: ACCESS: Osaka Castle Park • Dec 1–Mar 3 Head to Nishinomaru the enjoy garden and grandiose view of Osaka Castle splashed with an array of colors and special effects during the projection-mapping 3D extravaganza that is the Osaka Castle Illuminage. Designed with a samurai- period there will theme, also be illuminations with a European townscape motif inspired by the influx of Western culture during the Meiji Restoration. At event, winter family this find traditional Japanese street performances, lightsaber sword plays, food stalls, and many attractions.other Tourists can receive a discounted entry fee of ¥1,000 by presenting a passport. valid Osaka 大 阪 城イルミナージュ ¥1,200 adults, concessions • Line, Tanimachi-4-Chome Stn, Stn, Tanimachi-4-Chome Line, illuminagegroup. • walk 10-min com/osaka2018-2019

| WINTERKansai Scene 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com On What’s

32 © SUMIYOSHI TAISHA SUMIYOSHI © What’s On Guide See Kansaifinder.com for more What’s On  Cultural

OSAKA OSAKA HIKARI-RENAISSANCE 2018 OSAKA光のルネサンス2018 Nakanoshima Island • Dec 14–25 Nakanoshima Island will be flooded with a sea of colorful lights in a spectacle that has been described as the greatest free light show in Kansai. Fantastic images will be projected onto the facade of Osaka City Central Public Hall. A romantic illuminated arcade known as “Nakanoshima Illumination Street” will be set up beside the city hall featuring a variety of brightly shining ornaments to set the holiday mood. Taiwanese lanterns from the city of Tainan will create an exotic atmosphere as they swing in the evening breeze. Street-food booths and mobile catering will provide a nice selection of tasty treats. Quality live music and street performances will add a festive touch to this festive event.

TIME: 5pm–10pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Keihan Line, Naniwabashi Stn • hikari-kyoen.com/renaissance © FESTIVAL OF THE LIGHTS IN OSAKA IN COMMITTEE LIGHTS EXECUTIVE THE OF FESTIVAL ©

backdrop of fall-leaf- and 11:30am on the day of Seven-leaf Rice Porridge, covered mountains. Don’t the festival. otherwise known as

forget to stroll through TIME: Noon • ADMISSION: ¥800 adults, Nanakusa-gayu is the scenic bamboo forest concessions • ACCESS: Daigo Subway traditionally eaten on this walkway between Nonomiya Stn, 10-min walk • daigoji.or.jp day to pray for good health. Shrine to Okouchi Sanso A simple rice porridge is Villa as thousands of SETSUBUN MIBU KYOGEN combined with a mixture bamboo trees create an of the leaves of seven ambient canopy. The main 壬 生 狂 言「 節 分 」公 開 plants, typically including walkways will feature Mibu Temple • Feb 2 & 3 turnip and radish, but can a flower arrangement Kyogen are short plays with be modified depending on promenade of carefully exaggerated movements the region and what is in crafted ikebana (flower that originated about season. This festival has arrangement) pieces. 700 years ago to spread taken place since the Edo TIME: 5pm–8:30pm • ADMISSION: Free Buddhist teachings to period at Gokounomiya Jinja, a shrine known for its • ACCESS: Hankyu line, Arashiyama a wide audience. Mibu © NARA TOURIST CITY ASSOCIATION Stn; Randen line, Arashiyama Stn • Kyogen, or Mibu Dainenju fresh-tasting water which is NARA hanatouro.jp/e/arashiyama Kyogen specifically, uses no used to make the porridge. Bowls of the healthy spoken dialogue during the BURNING MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL GODAIRIKI-SAN (WEIGHT- performance. To celebrate porridge can be purchased for ¥300. 若草山焼き LIFTING CONTEST) the traditional holiday of Setsubun, the Kyogen TIME: 9am (until porridge supply ends) Jan 26 • Mt. Wakakusa in Nara Park 五大力尊仁王会 餅上げ力 performance of the same • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Nara 奉納 Join this magnificent spectacle title will be performed live line, Momoyama Stn, 5-min walk • where 33 hectares of grassland Daigoji Temple • Feb 23 every hour on the hour. gokounomiya.kyoto.jp is turned into a sea of flames. As part of the Godairiki- Watch the comical act of Heralding the coming spring and San ceremony, participants a bright red ogre being attracting millions of people each attempt to please the deity chased away as handfuls year, this activity called Wakakusa of the temple by lifting of roasted soybeans are Hyogo Yamayaki can be traced back to the a gigantic two-layered thrown at him. 18th century, but its true origin is kagami-mochi (rice cake). TIME: 1pm–8pm • ADMISSION: Free unknown. Starting with a fireworks Male participants will • ACCESS: Hankyu line, Omiya Stn, 47 RONIN FESTIVAL display, the whole of Mt. Wakakusa carry 150kg and females 8-min walk • mibudera.com/eng/ 赤穂義士祭 gradually goes up in flames. Before 90kg on a large stage pages/plays.html the event, there will be a dance show, constructed in front of the Ako Castle & Surroundings a ceremony performed by the Nara main hall. As the crowds SEVEN-LEAF RICE • Dec 14 fire brigade, and more. cheer, each participant PORRIDGE FESTIVAL December 14th marks the TIME: 6pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR challenges the record of anniversary of 47 samurai 七 種 神 事（ 七 草 粥 ） / Kintetsu Nara Stn, bus to Daibutsuden holding the mochi as long as heroes who took revenge Kasugataisha-mae, 15-min walk • nara-park. possible. Those wishing to Gokounomiya Shrine • on the death of their lord com/yamayaki-en participate should register Jan 7 in the Edo period. This at the temple between 9am national legend is still

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 33 What’s On  Cultural

OSAKA TOKA EBISU FESTIVAL 十日戎 Imamiya Ebisu Shrine • Jan 9–11 The Toka Ebisu festival is held all around Kansai, but no place does it bigger and better than Imamiya Ebisu Shrine. Every year, more than one million people make the pilgrimage from all over Kansai and beyond to Imamiya Ebisu Shrine to pray for success in business to Ebisu, the patron god of business and fisheries. Those hoping for his blessing in the new year buy lucky bamboo branches adorned with various lucky items such as special coins, sea bream, and rice bales all decorated by lovely miko (shrine maidens) dressed in white kimono with ornate golden headdresses. The three-day ceremony starts on the 9th on the Eve of Ebisu and the main parade and other festivities take place on the 10th.

TIME: 9am–9pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Osaka Subway Sakaisuji Line, Ebisu-cho Stn, 5-min walk; Nankai Koya Line, Imamiya Ebisu Stn • imamiya-ebisu.jp © OSAKA CONVENTION & TOURISM BUREAU TOURISM & OSAKA© CONVENTION

much loved by Japanese Many families still perform shrine’s maidens offer the people – it is on TV, and in the traditional ceremony first dance. The celebration KYOTO films and plays even today. to scare away all the evil continues as traditional ARCHERY CEREMONY Visit the hometown of these spirits and bring good ceremonies take place heroes and see the festival fortune for the year to come. over the three-day period. 奉射祭 held to pay tribute to the Experience a traditional During this time, many food Fushimi Inari Shrine • Jan 12 great achievement of the Japanese bean-throwing stands are open and the During this Shinto ceremony, rituals samurai. Witness the grand ceremony at Ikuta-jinja. A main building’s 163 ceiling are performed to drive away evil parade reenacting combat Shinto ritual takes place at paintings are available for and welcome positive influences. scenes and featuring the main hall from 1:45pm public viewing. After a series of rituals are held in elegant costumes from and the bean-throwing TIME: Depends on event • ADMISSION: the main hall, the archery ceremony this period. The renowned starts at 2pm. Popular Free • ACCESS: JR Kobe Stn, 3-min takes place outside. A priest shoots a actor, Hideki Takahashi will celebrities perform the act walk • URL minatogawajinja.or.jp purified arrow in multiple directions. join the parade to reenact along with 150 other bean Subsequently, two other priests the leader of the clan along throwers. Stage shows shoot arrows aiming at a target with a variety of other will be put on beforehand mounted on a 15-meter mythical entertainment groups. On at noon. Nara dragon (commonly associated with the eve of the festival, the TIME: 1:45pm • ADMISSION: Free • evil) created by ropes. center of the town will be ACCESS: JR Sannomiya Stn, 10-min illuminated with candles walk • ikutajinja.or.jp TIME: 2pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Inari and lanterns. SEXY RICE-PLANTING Stn; Keihan Fushimi Inari Stn, 5-min walk • FESTIVAL inari.jp TIME: 10am–4pm • ADMISSION: Free NEW YEAR AT • ACCESS: JR Banshu-Ako Stn • MINATOGAWA SHRINE おんだ祭り city.ako.lg.jp/kensetsu/kankou/ 湊川神社（楠公さん） 初詣 Asukaniimasu Shrine • akogishisai.html Feb 4 Minatogawa Shrine • Jan SETSUBUN SAI – BEAN- 1–3 Onda Matsuri is famously known as the ‘sexy rice- THROWING CEREMONY Every year, more than planting festival’ because 節分祭 a million people visit the day marks the ‘first this shrine dedicated to Ikuta Shrine • Feb 3 sun’ indicating the arrival worshiping the spirit of a of spring, and fertility and February 3rd is Setsubun brave military commander harvest go hand-in-hand. which means “the day in hopes of good fortune On this day, people worship before the beginning of and positive prospects the gods so that they might spring.” It is also the lunar throughout the year. As the be blessed with a good rice new year’s eve when the clock strikes midnight and harvest. The ceremony bean-throwing ceremony the new year arrives, drums starts with a prayer takes place at temples are struck, the first prayers offering, which is followed and shrines across Japan. are conducted, and the by ‘marriage play’ between

34 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com See Kansaifinder.com for more What’s On  Cultural

SHIGA KATSUBE FIRE FESTIVAL 勝部の火まつり Katsube Shrine & Sumiyoshi Shrine • Jan 12 This festival, which has been running

for 800 years, stems from an episode BUREAU VISITORS BIWAKO PHOTO: during the Kamakura period when an emperor was cured of a disease after an evil mythical dragon was burned away. It is said that the dragon’s body remained in Katsube as its head flew to Fuke where Sumiyoshi Shrine is located. At both shrines, torches that resemble the dragon’s head or body SHIGA is burned as young men dance wildly GOKASHO HINA-NINGYO to pray for good health. Sumiyoshi Shrine and Katsube Shrine are about DOLLS a 15-minute walk from one other. 商家に伝わるひな人形めぐり TIME: 8pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Biwako Gokasho Omishonin- Line, Moriyama Stn, 10-min walk • biwako- Yashiki, Shiga • Feb 1– visitors.jp/event/detail/733 Mar 21 Hina Matsuri (Girls’ Day Festival) is one of the most important festivals in Japan. It is the day that families pray for the happiness and prosperity of their young daughters. Many families display a set of figurines called hina-ningyo for this day of celebration. a tengu (goblin) and a human will be staged near the Nara TIME: 7pm–12:40am • ADMISSION: Free • The picturesque town of woman. Two male actors; one National Museum until late. ACCESS: JR Kainan Stn, bus to Marina City Gokasho will have various • marinacity.com dolls on display at the dressed as a tengu and the TIME: Depends on event • ADMISSION: Free other as a woman, pretend to Ohmi merchants’ houses, • ACCESS: JR / Kintetsu Line, Nara Stn, OTO MATSURI (FIRE which are regularly be a married couple copulating. bus to Kasuga-taisha Omotesando • This part of the festival is very FESTIVAL) open to the public as kasugataisha.or.jp/onmatsuri museums. There, visitors graphic with various sexual お燈まつり positions enacted as well as will get the chance to plenty of spanking. A third Kamikura Shrine • Feb 6 admire beautiful dolls, person who is a masked priest Wakayama Two thousand men known as which have been passed gives them a helping hand in nobori-ko clad in all-white attire down through many getting the job done! will hold torches and run down generations displayed in the 538 stone steps from the historic houses. TIME: 2pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: NEW YEAR’S COUNTDOWN & Kintetsu Line, Kashiharajingu-mae Stn, peak of Kamikura mountain. TIME: 9:30am–4:30pm (Closed Feb bus to Asukadaibutsu-mae • asukamura. STARLIGHT ILLUSION 2019 These men have gone through 12 & Mar 11) • ADMISSION: ¥600 (for com/?p=11548 ニューイヤーズカウントダウン2019 a week-long purification period 3 houses) adults, concessions • where they eat only white ACCESS: JR Biwako Line, Notogawa Wakayama Marina City, ON-MATSURI colored foods such as tofu, Stn, bus to Plaza Sanpoyoshi-mae • Wakayama • Dec 31 rice and fish paste, and refrain higashiomi.net/notogawa/466.html おん祭 Celebrate New Year’s Eve and from interaction with women. Kasuga Shrine, Nara • Dec welcome 2019 with an exciting On the day of the ceremony, the 15–18 live music show and the shrine’s doors are closed at The On-Matsuri is a festival “Starlight Illusion” fireworks 7pm and the fire is distributed held at Wakamiya Shrine, display. This is one of the to the torches. As the gates which stands in the precincts largest New Year’s Eve events open at 8pm, the men rush of the Kasuga Taisha, one of in Kansai held annually at down the steps, creating a the oldest shrines in Japan. Wakayama Marina City. Enjoy fiery wave that resembles a Historic pageantry lasts for the gig with a star DJ from FM flying dragon. four days to celebrate the deity 802, a guest band, and local TIME: 8pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR of the shrine. On the 17th, musicians. At the end of the Nanki Line, Shingu Stn, 15-min walk • the grand parade—Owatari- show, a stunning display of kumanohayatama.jp shiki—featuring thousands fireworks spreading across of participants in traditional the sky above Port Europa will costumes starts at noon. In celebrate the clock ticking over the afternoon after the parade, into the new year. various performances with traditional music and dance

PHOTO: HIGASHI OMI TOURIST ASSOCIATION

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 35 Sights & Attractions

Nijo Castle KYOTO Built in 1603 as the Kyoto residence of Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Nijo castle is famous for its squeaky “nightingale” floorboards, designed to forewarn of intruders. The whitewashed outer walls and moat encompass several gardens and the beautifully preserved Ninomaru Palace, whose lavishly decorated rooms feature ornate woodwork and stunning wall paintings. 541 Nijojocho, Nakagyo Ward PHOTO: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/SEANPAVONEPHOTO PHOTO:

MUSEUM OF HOUSING AND ABENO HARUKAS UNIVERSAL STUDIOS JAPAN Osaka LIVING Japan’s tallest skyscraper Giant movie-themed amusement This museum depicts everyday at 300m in height, is home to park with thrills and spills for all an observatory, art museum ages, featuring characters from Museums Osaka life as it was in the past, complete with a life sized, and hotel as well as hundreds the Universal stable, including MUSEUMS & GALLERIES interactive recreation of an of shops. Harry Potter, Spiderman, and the Minions. This offbeat museum in Ikeda, Edo era neighborhood you TSUTENKAKU TOWER north of Osaka, pays tribute to can explore! 2 Chome-1-33 Sakurajima, Konohana Ward One of Osaka’s most iconic • usj.co.jp Momofuku Ando, the inventor of Kita Ward, Tenjinbashi, 6-4-20 • TEL: landmarks, presiding over the the instant noodle. Fun, hands- 06-6242-1170 Shinsekai area in Tennoji. There SPA WORLD on activities and, for only 300 are observation decks on the yen, you can design your own SUMIYOSHI SHRINE 4th and 5th floors, although at A giant hot spring theme park bespoke cup noodles (takes Osaka’s Sumiyoshi Grand Shrine just 103m high, is dwarfed by the with a huge choice of fanciful about 45 mins). is one of the oldest shrines nearby Abeno Harukas. baths and spas in which to soak, as well as a large fun pool on its 8-25 Masumi-cho, Ikeda-shi, Osaka • in Japan. Founded in the 3rd 1-18-6 Ebisu-higashi, Naniwa Ward cupnoodles-museum.jp century before Buddhism came upper floors. Open 24 hrs. to the country, it has a distinctive Attractions 3-4-24 Ebisu-higashi Naniwa-ku • TEL: OSAKA SCIENCE MUSEUM style of shrine architecture— 06-6631-0001 OSAKA AQUARIUM KAIYUKAN Hands-on exhibits introduce called Sumiyoshi-zukuri—that themes on space and energy is free of influence from One of the largest public SILVER BALL PLANET to all ages but the planetarium mainland Asia. aquariums in the world, with an Japan’s mecca for pinball is the main draw here. Note: 2-9-89 Sumiyoshi, Sumiyoshi-ku amazing collection of marine machines, housing over 100 The museum will be closed for life, including the popular whale machines dating from the 1970s refurbishment from Dec 18 (to Monuments and Landmarks shark tank and the mesmerising to the present day. jellyfish. Allow several hours. re-open in April 2019). OSAKA CASTLE Big Step 3F, Nishi-shinsaibashi 1-6-14 • 1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato-ku • TEL: 06- 4-2-1 Nakanoshima, Kita Ward • TEL: silverballplanet.jp If you visiting Osaka for the first 6576-5501 • kaiyukan.com 06-6444-5656 time, then you are duty bound to visit this 400-year-old castle LEGOLAND DISCOVERY THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF in the beautiful grounds of the ART, OSAKA extensive Osaka Castle Park. CENTER OSAKA Nara Housed beneath the Science The small museum inside offers A great place for the kids to Museum and instantly a great insight into its history. let off steam and explore the excellent LEGO activities, Museums recognisable with its futuristic UMEDA SKY BUILDING ground floor entrance, designed small rides and 4D cinema NARA NATIONAL MUSEUM by Argentinian architect César One of the city’s most that form this indoor LEGO recognizable landmarks, the playground. Inside the Tempozan Ranging over four buildings with Pelli, the NMAO features works wheelchair access, this museum from Cezanne and Picasso to Floating Garden Observatory Marketplace shopping center connecting its two towers offers next to the Osaka Aquarium. holds treasures from the Nara contemporary artists. period (710 to 784 AD), plus 360-degree panoramic views. 1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato-ku • TEL: 0800- 4-2-55 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku • TEL: 06- Buddhist and decorative art from 6447-4680 Kita-ku, Oyodonaka 1-1-88 100-5346 around Japan with explanations in English.

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NARA PREFECTURAL KASUGA-TAISHA SHRINE 527 Chayacho, Higashiyama-ku • TEL: of popular Japanese children’s 075-525-2473 MUSEUM OF ART An ancient shinto shrine, famous character Anpanman. Great for young kids. Nara’s main art museum has an for its stunning vermillion KYOTO RAILWAY MUSEUM extensive collection of Japanese colored columns, is approached 1-6-2 Higashikawasaki-cho, along an atmospheric forest This 30,000 square meter space Chuo-ku • Tel: 078-341-8855 art, with a focus on the Edo and features 53 engines, ranging Meiji eras. Exhibitions rotate path, lined with hundreds of stone lanterns. from the Japan’s oldest steam every two to three months and locomotive to more recent Monuments and Landmarks explanations of most pieces shinkansen models. Kids will go are in English. There is a good crazy for the train simulators HIMEJI CASTLE museum shop and regular free Kyoto and interactive dioramas. A must Perched upon a hill where its workshops and activities for for train buffs of all ages. towers can be seen for miles, families. Free for seniors and for this picturesque fortress is foreigners with ID. Kankijicho, Shimogyo-ku • kyotorailwaymuseum.jp nicknamed Shirasagi-jo (“White Monuments and Landmarks Museums Heron Castle”) because of its Attractions brilliant, white exterior and NARA PARK KYOTO MUSEUM OF MODERN unique tower structuring. GEAR A huge ancient park and the focal ART Himeji-shi, 68 Honmachi point for any visit to Nara. Droves A great collection of both A long-running non-verbal of wild deer will follow you Japanese and western modern theater show that continues Attractions around as you explore the park’s to delight all ages, that art, with some excellent NUNOBIKI HERB GARDENS & stunning temples, gardens and temporary exhibitions. Across mixes mime, dancing, magic, museums, hoping you may feed the road from the Kyoto juggling and contemporary ROPEWAY them special deer crackers. Municipal Museum of Art. special effects. Enjoy the stunning ropeway ride, TODAIJI Sakyo Ward, Okazaki Enshojicho, 26−1 • 1928 Blg. 3F, 56 Benkeiishi-cho, Nakagyo- before exploring the charming ku • TEL: 075-254-6520 TEL: 075-761-4111 strolling herb gardens and Todaiji Temple with its 15m high greenhouse exhibits at the top of Buddha is the most prestigious TOEI KYOTO STUDIO PARK Mt. Rokko, tha affords sweeping of Nara’s seven great temples KYOTO NATIONAL MUSEUM Lots of fun to be had at this old views across the city below. and draws a steady stream One of Japan’s oldest museums, Restaurant on-site. of visitors. housing a permanent collection Edo-themed movie park. With a of Japanese artefacts, treasures brilliant ninja show, fun staged Chuo-ku Kitanocho 1-4-3 • TEL: 078-271- and artworks. samurai fights and the chance 1160 to dress up as you wander the faux Edo-era streets, it’s a great afternoon out. 10 Uzumasa Higashihachiokacho, Ukyo-ku, Shiga Kyoto • toei-eigamura.com

The Museum of Oriental KYOTO AQUARIUM Museums A modern aquarium in Umekoji Ceramics, Osaka Park, with aquatic creatures MIHO MUSEUM presented across twelve A stunning museum, designed OSAKA different themed areas. Great by renowned architect I. M. Pei Regarded as one of the best collections of ceramics in the for a rainy-day activity or for and located far from the crowds world with over 7,000 items, this is a must-see museum families with young children. in the hills around Shigaraki, for ceramic enthusiasts. Located in leafy Nakanoshima, Also convenient for the requires a bit of a trek to reach, next to the iconic Central Public Hall, the permanent Railway Museum. but is absolutely worth it. Named collection features items from China and Korea as well as 35-1 Kankijicho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto • after Koyama Mihoko, one of the Japan. A special exhibition of ceramic ‘object portraits’ by kyoto-aquarium.com richest women in Japan and the photographer Eric Zetterquist runs from Dec 8 thru Feb 11. founder of the museum. The onsite tea room affords views of the rose garden and Shigaraki, Tashiro Momodani 300 • miho.jp serves refreshments using Royal Copenhagen porcelain. 1 Chome-1-26 Nakanoshima, Kita, Osaka • Tel: 06-6223-0055 Hyogo Monuments and Landmarks ENRYAKUJI Sitting atop Mt.Hiei and Museums accessible by cable car, the UNESCO World Heritage site KOBE FASHION MUSEUM Enryakuji, is the sacred home Japan’s first museum dedicated of the Tendai monks and is to the world of fashion, situated simply stunning during the fall on Rokko Island, housing a large leaves season. public library on its 3rd floor. HIKONE CASTLE 2-9-1 Koyochonaka, Higashinada Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-858-0050 One of the best preserved examples remaining in Japan, KOBE ANPANMAN this picturesque 400-year-old castle overlooks Lake Biwa in CHILDREN’S MUSEUM & MALL the small city of Hikone. Fun museum and play area in Kobe’s Harborland area, dedicated to the surreal world

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 37 What’s On  Art & Exhibitions T&C4302,1974. ALUMINUM, STAINLESS STEEL, BRASS, WIRE…ETC.10 CM26 X10 GALLERY TEZUKAYAMA OF COURTESY

Tension and Compression – Morio Shinoda Tezukayama Gallery, Osaka • Until Dec 15 Japanese sculptor Morio Shinoda, active on both the domestic and international art scene since the 1950s, creates abstract metal sculptures depicting women or structures suspended in air

WATERFALL, 1961. ALL M.C. ESCHER WORKS © THE M.C. ESCHER COMPANY, THE THE COMPANY, ESCHER M.C. THE © WORKS ESCHER M.C. ALL 1961. WATERFALL, WWW.MCESCHER.COM RESERVED. RIGHTS ALL NETHERLANDS. by wires. Throughout his career, Shinoda has presented a multitude of works under the theme of Tension & Compression, relishing the dynamic nature of contrasting elements. In the 1972 book, ‘Declaration of Pleasure’, Shinoda said, “My works are viable only in the active acquisition of pleasure, or in complete abstinence.” This exhibition consists of around 20 of Shinoda’s Miracle Escher works created throughout his career, beginning in the 1960s, allowing viewers an opportunity to witness the evolution of his style and manner of expression over the years. Works from the Morio Shinoda exhibition • OPEN: 12pm–7pm • CLOSED: Sun, Mon & holidays • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Namba Stn, Exit 26-C, Israel Museum 5-min walk • TEL: 06-6534-3993 • tezukayama-g.com/en Abeno Harukas Art Museum, Osaka • Until Jan 24

Christian Boltanski exhibition • OPEN: Dutch graphic artist Maurits Cornelis preservation of paintings Osaka 10am–5pm Tuesday-Sunday (until of Hideyoshi and other Escher’s mathematically inspired 8pm Fri & Sat), last entry 30mins important figures involved works have wowed audiences around before closing • ADMISSION: ¥900 • with the Toyotomi clan. ACCESS: Fukushima Stn, 10-min walk • the world for decades. During an age CHRISTIAN BOLTANSKI – These ephemeral portraits TEL: 06-6447-4680 • nmao.go.jp/en of revered historical figures where computers weren’t yet utilized LIFETIME remind us of the short but as a design tool, Escher created art NMAO – The National significant lives they led. featuring motifs like impossible Museum of Art, Osaka • Exhibition of Toyotomi Clan portraits • Until May 6 Kyoto objects, explorations of infinity, OPEN: 9:30am–10pm (hours may vary) While composed from • ADMISSION: ¥300 • ACCESS: Gion-Shijo reflection, symmetry, perspective, decades of artworks by Stn, 13-min walk • TEL: 075-561-1414 • truncated and stellated polyhedra, Christian Boltanski, one of PORTRAITS OF THE kodaiji.com/museum hyperbolic geometry, and tessella- France’s preeminent artists, TOYOTOMI CLAN AND ITS this exhibition functions as VASSALS tions. In this exhibition, held to com- an installation that can be memorate the 120th anniversary of viewed as one giant work Kodaiji Sho Museum, Kyoto Mie • Until May 6 the artist’s birth, the Abeno Harukas of art. Christian Boltanski is a multi-talented artist Léonard Tsuguharu Toyotomi Art Museum is showing some 150 renowned for his sculptures, Hideyoshi was once the KAWABATA YASUNARI works by Escher, including some of photographs, and films, but most powerful person in AND YOKOMITSU RIICHI his earliest pieces and autographed is most well-known for his Japan. In the 16th century, photography installations. he and his men unified the EXHIBITION drawings. Visitors can appreci- Since the late 1960s, he country after centuries of Mie Prefectural Art ate the immense value of precise has explored the themes of upheaval. Yet his family’s Museum, Mie • Until Dec 16 graphic representations that laid the memory and death, often reign was short-lived; after focusing on the Holocaust his death, his followers split Yasunari Kawabata and foundation for modern design trends in abstract but compelling into rival factions once more. Riichi Yokomitsu were two and techniques. ways. “Art-making is not Hideyoshi’s son was defeated writers active throughout about telling the truth,” he and his stronghold, Osaka Japan during the early 20th century. With a handful of Escher exhibition • OPEN: 10am–8pm (until 6pm Sat, said, “but making the truth Castle, was destroyed. felt.” This retrospective Through all this betrayal other young writers, the Sun & holidays) • ADMISSION: ¥1,500 • ACCESS: Short two men started a prewar walk from Tennoji Stn • TEL: 06-4399-9050 • escher.jp covers his contemporary, and chaos, Hideyoshi’s wife conceptual creations Nene managed to maintain Japanese literary group from the past 50 years the family legacy from called Shinkankakuha, and counting. her sanctuary at Kodaiji. which focused on exploring Among her deeds was the “new impressions” or “new

38 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com See Kansaifinder.com for more What’s On  Art & Exhibitions

Graphics in Vienna around 1900 – New Design for a New Way of Life MoMAK – The National Museum of Modern Art Kyoto • Until Feb 24

This expansive collection exemplifies Viennese fin de siècle (turn-of-the-century) graphic design. Between the initiation of the Vienna Secession movement in 1897 and the outbreak of World War I in 1914, Viennese artists like Gustav Klimt and Josef Hoffmann endeavored to create new forms of expression suitable for the modern age. The technological advances in printing plus the growing popularity of the magazine industry led to breakthroughs in art both aesthetically and philo- ベルトルト·レフラー（編） 『ディ·フレッヒェ（平面）－装 飾デザイン集 第Ⅱ巻』 1910/11年 京都国立 sophically. Also exhibited are plaster sculptures by 近代美術館 Richard Luksch and priceless furniture created by Adolf Loos. This incredible collection was donated by Hiraaki Akira, founder of an apparel company, アントワーヌ＝ジャン・グロ《アルコレ橋のボナパルト Need （1796年11月17日）》1796年 from his private collection in 2015. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (musée du Louvre) / Hervé Lewandowski /distributed by AMF-DNPartcom more Art? Graphic Design exhibition • OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (until 8pm Fri & Sat), last See complete listings online at entry 30mins before closing • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 • ACCESS: Higashiyama kansaifinder.com Stn, 10-min walk • TEL: 075-761-4111 • www.momak.go.jp The Art of Portraiture in the perceptions” in the writing Nara National Museum is This year marks the 100th Louvre Collections of Japanese literature. This displaying works related anniversary of the founding exhibition consists of works to and used during the On of the Kokuga Sosaku Kyokai Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts, related to this pioneering, Matsuri. These represent (National Painting Creation Osaka • Until Jan 14 anti-establishment the central Wakamiya deity, Association) in Kyoto. It was movement. the celebratory procession, first formed by five Japanese Portraits have been created Japanese literature exhibition • and festivities. In addition painters in 1918 and aimed throughout history as a way to OPEN: 9:30am–5pm • CLOSED: Mon • to works of art, cultural to give artists a forum for artifacts associated with free, uninhibited creation capture the essence of influen- ADMISSION: ¥1,000 • ACCESS: JR Tsu the Kasuga faith will be that would not be limited by tial people, commemorate their Stn, 10-min walk • TEL: 059-227-2100 • bunka.pref.mie.lg.jp/art-museum exhibited. Immerse yourself the constraints of existing existence, and demonstrate their in the four-day harvest trends, rules, and values. In power. This exhibition features festival’s almost 1,000-year this retrospective exhibition, history just in time for it to visitors are invited to view some 110 portraits borrowed Nara begin on December 15. around 90 works created from the Louvre Museum collec- On-Matsuri and the Sacred Art of by members of this artists’ association, including tion. Items on display include Kasuga • OPEN: 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun pieces that have been 3,000-year-old masks excavated ON-MATSURI AND THE • ADMISSION: ¥520 • ACCESS: Kintetsu Nara Stn, 15-min walk • TEL: 050- dubbed Important Cultural from Ancient Egyptian cof- SACRED ART OF KASUGA 5542-8600 • www.narahaku.go.jp Property by the Agency for fins, paintings and sculptures Nara National Museum, Cultural Affairs. Common Nara • Until Jan 20 motifs of these works representing ancient figures like include natural landscapes Marie Antoinette, and numerous The On Matsuri is a and women dressed in beloved annual festival Wakayama other masterpieces. traditional Japanese fashion held every December popular during the early at Kasuga Wakamiya 20th century. Portrait exhibition from the Louvre • Open: Shrine and surroundings THE KOKUGA SOSAKU National Painting Creation 9:30am–5pm (last entry 30 mins before in Nara. Renowned for KYOKAI: CELEBRATING closing) • Closed: Mon • Admission: ¥1,600 its traditional music and Association Retrospective • OPEN: • Access: Tennoji Stn, 5-min walk • Tel: 06- dance—which have been THE CENTENNIAL OF ITS 9:30am–5pm • CLOSED: Mon • 4301-7285 (Osaka City Call Center) • osaka- named Important Cultural BIRTH ADMISSION: ¥800 • ACCESS: JR art-museum.jp/en Properties—as well as an Wakayama Stn, bus to Kencho-mae The Museum of Modern Art, stop, 2-min walk • TEL: 073-436-8690 elaborate display of ancient Wakayama • Until Dec 16 costumes, the festival is a • momaw.jp/language/english grand visual spectacle. The

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 39 What’s On  Live Music

ROBERT GLASPER TRIO Jan 9 Three-time-Grammy-winning Earlier this year, Glasper teamed American singer, pianist, and up with other musical friends record producer Robert Glasper to put out the album R+R=NOW. brings his unique style of jazz hip- Glasper says this album tells hop to Japan, along with DJ Jahi “our story from our point of view. Sundance. Hailed as a pioneer Everybody’s sound is so different, in this jazz alternative genre, but we all come from the same the keyboardist has earned rave concrete garden. It’s a very reviews from the likes of Rolling honest, fluid sound that rings of Stone magazine: “Robert Glasper hip-hop, EDM, jazz, at times – hell heads down the fraught path of – reggae ... a bunch of cats that hip-hop jazz and gets it right… it respect each other so much that feels like a blueprint forward.” we always pass the ball.” Glasper is joined in his trio by US jazz hip-hop keyboardist • Billboard the highly sought after New Live OSAKA, Osaka • Jazz Hip-Hop • York bassist Vicente Archer, and 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥8,800/¥9,800 • TEL: US drummer Damian Reid, a 06-6342-7722 musician who it is claimed plays with a ‘controlled fury.’ DON BROCO Dec 18 British rock band Don Broco was DON BRACO JAKIGAN MEISTER formed in Bedford, England in Rock & Pop 2008 with Rob Damiani (lead vocals Dec 18 Dec 22 & 23 and electronics), Simon Delaney UK band with Coldrain and Japanese rock singer & (guitar), Tom Doyle (bass), and Matt Man With a Mission guitarist Donnelly (drums and vocals). Their KINOCO HOTEL Zepp Osaka Bayside, Osaka • Rock Muse, Osaka • Rock • 5:30pm Dec band’s debut album Priorities was Dec 8 & 9 • 6:30pm • ¥5,500/¥6,500 • TEL: 22; 4:30pm Dec 23 • ¥6,000 • TEL: released on 13 August 2012, though Japanese retro rock revival 03-3475-9999 06-6245-5389 it was another three years before the group-sounds quartet follow-up Automatic in 2015. Eager ALAN WALKER BLACK PINK fans waited a further three years to Shangri-La, Osaka • Group sounds • hear new material from their latest 7pm • ¥3,800 (2 nights ¥7,500) • TEL: Dec 19 Dec 24 offerings in the album Technology 06-6535-5569 Alan Olav Walker aka DJ Korean-pop girl vocal group released February 2018. Walkzz KING CRIMSON Kyocera Dome, Osaka • K-pop • Technology is a 16-track album, which Zepp Osaka Bayside, Osaka • Electro 4pm/6pm • ¥7,800 • TEL: 0570-200- features a track title ¥, and reached Dec 9 & 10 House • 7pm • ¥8,500/¥9,000 • TEL: 888 the top spot on the UK rock and metal Seminal 70’s prog-rock 0570-200-888 charts as well as number one on the pioneers BONNIE PINK UK general album charts. Grand Cube, Osaka • Prog rock • ZAZEN BOYS Dec 24 Not a straight-forward rock sound, TIME: TBA • ¥16,000/¥20,000 • TEL: Dec 20 Japanese-pop singer- Don Broco also has elements of 0570-200-888 Japanese indie-math-rock songwriter indie, pop, new wave, and metal, band which together blend for a very BULL ZEICHEN 88 Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Pop interesting musical experience. Club Quattro, Osaka • Indie rock • • 4:30pm/7:30pm • ¥8,000/¥13,000 • British rock band with Coldrain and Man with a Dec 10 7pm • ¥4,000/¥4,500 • TEL: 06-6341- TEL: 06-6342-7722 Japanese rock four-piece 3525 Mission • Zepp Osaka Bayside, Osaka • Rock • 6:30pm • ¥5,500/¥6,500 • TEL: 03-3475-9999 Muse, Osaka • Rock • 7pm • ¥4,500 • ARRESTED DEVELOPMENT TEL: 06-6245-5389 OBLIVION DUST Dec 28 Dec 22 Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka DRAGON ASH Reformed Japanese • Hip-Hop • 6:30pm/9:30pm • Dec 15 alternative-rock band ¥9,800/¥10,800 • TEL: 06-6342-7722 Japanese rap-rock group Club Quattro, Osaka • Rock • 6pm • since 1996 ¥5,940/¥6,480 • TEL: 0570-200-888 THE ALFEE Zepp Osaka Bayside, Osaka • Rap Dec 29 rock • 6:30pm • ¥6,000 • TEL: 06- MR. CHILDREN Japanese pop-rock trio 6882-1224 Dec 22 & 23 Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • Pop rock • Popular Japanese pop rock 5pm • ¥7,560 • TEL: 06-6341-3525 THE BACK HORN quartet formed 1989 Dec 15 Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • Pop rock • HOTEI Japanese rock band’s 20th- 5pm Dec 22; 4pm Dec 23 • ¥8,600 • Dec 29 & 30 anniversary tour TEL: 0570-200-888 Japanese singer & guitarist Namba Hatch, Osaka • Rock • 6pm • Orix Theater, Osaka • Rock • 5:30pm ¥4,200 • TEL: 06-6357-3666 Dec 29; 5pm Dec 30 • ¥8,000 • TEL: 0570-200-888

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KINOCO HOTEL Dec 8 & 9 Japanese female group-sounds they call a “biting punk sound and retro psychedelic-rock four piece addictive beat.” Kinoco Hotel play two nights At the beginning of this year, the at Osaka’s Shangri-La. The band put out a special live 2 CD energetic band played their first and DVD set celebrating their live show in Tokyo in 2007. Led 10-year anniversary. As part of by vocalist Marianne Shinonome the celebrations, they last year alongside guitarist Isabelle released an album of early songs Kamogawa, drummer Fabienne re-recorded (plus one new song). Inawashiro, and bassist Julietta The album is called Play Girl Kirishima, they released their Dai Makyo. major debut album in 2010 titled Marianne No Yuutsu (Marianne’s Japanese four-piece group-sounds rock Melancholy). Actively touring band • Shangri-La, Osaka • 7pm • ¥3,800; 2 and playing at festivals all over nights ¥7,800 • TEL: 06-6535-5569 Japan since then, the band uses 60’s-sounding fuzz guitar for what

PORNOGRAFFITTI Kyocera Dome, Osaka • Pop • SAORI YANO 4pm/6pm Jan 11 & 12; 4pm Jan 13 • Dec 30 & 31 ¥9,500 • TEL: 0570-033-366 Dec 28 Japanese rock duo from Japanese jazz saxophonist Onomichi formed 1994 THE MUGGLES Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • Jazz • Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • Rock pop • Every Fri & Sat 7:30pm/9pm • ¥5,600/¥6,000 • TEL: 7pm Dec 30; 10:30pm Dec 31 • ¥8,640 Mellow ballads, classic rock, 06-6342-5821 • TEL: 0570-200-888 and dynamic rock-n-roll from Osaka-based jamming ROBERT GLASPER TRIO KUMI ADACHI & band WITH DJ JAHI SUNDANCE SAKURAKO TAKASHIMA Woodstock Café, Ashiya • Group Jan 9 Jan 4 sounds • Admission Free (¥2,000 for 2 US Jazz hip-hop artist drinks + snack) • TEL: 079-734-1044 Japanese rock fusion Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • guitarist collaboration Jazz hip-hop • 6:30pm/9:30pm • KING CRIMSON Live Spot Rag, Kyoto • Rock Fusion ¥8,800/¥9,800 • TEL: 06-6342-7722 Dec 9 & 10 • 7:30pm • ¥3,840/¥4,800 • TEL: Jazz & Blues 075-241-2022 MAXIME COMBARIEU 2018 marks the 50th anniversary of one of the most influential bands to come out Jan 11 ORANGE RANGE of the UK. King Crimson is an English JOSHUA BREAKSTONE French jazz pianist progressive-rock band cited by both Jan 6 Dec 7 & Jan 4 Blue Note, Nara • Jazz • 6:30pm • contemporaries and recent artists as Japanese hip-hop-rock band having an impression on their music. US jazz guitarist and special ¥3,000 • TEL: 074-227-8230 Orix Theater, Osaka • Hip-hop rock • guests Although the band has undergone 5:30pm • ¥5,800 • TEL: 0570-200-888 numerous lineup changes over the last Bonds rosary, Kyoto • Jazz • 7:30pm • five decades, the group coming to Japan ROTTENGRAFFTY ¥1,400/¥2,900 • TEL: 075-285-2859 for an impressive 13-date tour features Jan 6 founding member Robert Fripp (guitar) NISHIZAKI KAYOKO plus early members Jakko Jakszyk Kyoto band’s 20th- Dec 13 (guitar) and Mel Collins (sax and flute). anniversary tour Japanese trumpeter’s Japanese audiences will also recognize Muse, Kyoto • Rock • 5:30pm • ¥3,610 Christmas special Tony Levin (bass and stick) and Pat • TEL: 075-223-0389 Mastelotto (percussion) who have toured Live Spot Rag, Kyoto • Jazz • 7:30pm Japan with their group The Stick Band PUFFY × ASAKO TOKI • ¥5,400 • TEL: 075-241-0446 (although, Levin originally joined King Crimson in the 1980s). Jan 11 T-SQUARE Fifty years ago, Jimi Hendrix reportedly Japanese pop duo x Dec 19–24 Japanese singer and called them the best band in the world. songwriter Japanese Jazz Fusion band Need Have they still got what it takes to hold formed 1978 that title? After a recent live show in Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Pop • Chicken George, Kobe • Fusion • 7pm the UK, a local media outlet confirmed: 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥6,800/¥7,800 • TEL: more live Dec 19–21; 5pm Dec 22–24 • ¥6,000 • “They absolutely remain at the top of 06-6342-7722 their game as prog royalty. Phenomenal.” TEL: 078-332-0146 music? ARASHI Seminal 70’s prog-rock pioneers • Grand Cube, See complete Osaka • Prog rock • TIME: TBA • ¥16,000/¥20,000 • Jan 11–13 listings online at TEL: 0570-200-888 Japanese pop vocal group kansaifinder.com

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 41 What’s On  Clubs & Nightlife

DEC 30 (SUN) NAMURA ZOSEN ATOCHI

2018 has been an amazing year for music in Osaka, and it’s time to gear up for the New Year countdown! Belgian producer Peter van Hoesen is returning to Osaka for the Star Festival 2018 happening the day before New Year’s Eve. One half of the duo Sendai, van Hoesen is known for his innovative approach to dance music. He’ll be spinning his unique style of techno with support from British producer Metrik. They’ll be joined by PETER VAN HOESEN Tokyo-indie pop group Yahyel, EYE of the legendary Osaka band The Boredoms, and Osaka native Aoki Takamasa, whose music was featured at Paris Fashion week in 2016. Get your tickets now for one of the hottest final club events of the year!

The Star Festival 2018 Closing (Techno/Electro) • ACTS: Peter Van Hoesen, Yahyel, Metrik, EYE, Aoki Takamasa + more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: ¥4,600/1D (ADV: ¥4,100/1D) • WHERE: Kitakagaya • TEL: 06-4702-7085 • namura.cc

METRIK

Mall Grab Japan Tour 2018 • DJs: Hiroshi Watanabe, Good- Kazuhiro Inoue + more • Open: ¥2,500/1D) • Where: Kyoto • Tel: December ‘Mall Grab × Tofubeats × Cool, Milk Bros, Cool Surf, Wise 11pm • Admission: ¥3,000/1D 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp Licaxxx’ (Electronic) + more • Open: 12am–8pm • (ADV: ¥2,500/1D) • Where: Kyoto • • DJs: Mall Grab, Tofubeats + Admission: ¥2,600/1D • Where: Tel: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp TRIANGLE more • Open: 11pm • Admission: Umeda • Tel: 06-6373-4919 • 15 (SAT) Tight 20th Anniversary Osaka 4 (TUE) ¥3,000/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi noon-cafe.com (Hip Hop/Abstract/Dub) • Tel: 06-6241-3822 • circus- BIG CAT CAFÉ ABSINTHE • Acts: Kuranaka aka 1945, Naga, osaka.com TROOP CAFE Quietstorm, Yas, Psycho Patch + Mura Masa Japan Tour 2018 Enor (House) Main of 20th Anniversary • DJs: Dimitri, Naoto, Masaaki, more • Open: 10pm • Admission: (Electronic) COMPUFUNK RECORDS feat. Satoshi Tomiie (House) ¥3,500/1D (ADV: ¥3,000/1D) • • Mura Masa + more • Open: Naoya + more • Open: 7pm–12am Untitled (Techno) • DJs: Satoshi Tomiie + more • • Admission: ¥1,000 • Where: Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06- 6:30pm • Admission: ¥7,000/1D • DJs: Ryosuke, Masanori Ikeda, Open: 11pm • Admission: Free • 6212-2264 • triangleosaka.com • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06- Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6534-6635 Dnt, Compufunk + more • Open: Where: Kobe • Tel: 078-321-3130 • cafeabsinthe.jp 6258-5008 • bigcat-live.com 10pm • Admission: ¥2,000/1D • • troopcafe.jp SOCRATES 7 (FRI) Where: Kitahama • Tel: 06-6314- CIRCUS Out of Base vol.17 (Psyche- 6541 • compufunk.com 9 (SUN) Lark feat. Gulp (Techno) delic Trance) ALZAR JOULE • DJs: Suzi, Hiroto, Maro, Deep DUBLIN GARDEN • DJs: Gulp, Spot, Yoske + more Ldg×Ring – Boshke Good Fellows (House/Techno) • Open: 11pm • Admission: Fryer + more • Open: 10:30pm • Beats×Ness Release Tour in Christmas DJ Party 2018 • DJs: Osawa Shinichi, Ikokai, ¥3,000/1D (W/Flyer: ¥2,000) • Admission: ¥2,500/1D • Where: Osaka – (Techno) (House/Techno) Hiloco, Analog4 + more • Open: Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06- Kyoto • Tel: 075-254-6210 • • DJs: Alex Tolstey, Master Out, • DJs: Noring, Ki6 a.k.a 3pm-9pm • Admission: ¥3,600 6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com sound-powder.com Ness, Tez, Yuta, Saki + more Yoshihiro Kimura, Naluu + /1D (ADV: ¥3,100/1D) • Where: • Open: 10pm • Admission: more • Open: 6pm–11:30pm • Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6214-1223 JOULE WORLD KYOTO ¥3,000/1D (W/Tourist Visa & Admission: ¥1,000/1D • Where: • club-joule.com Kitsune Bounenkai Night Passport: ¥700/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 6-6213-1122 • Tipsy-SM X’mas in Osaka! (Open Format) *Lesbians, Bi- (Disco) Shinsaibashi • Tel: 090-6960- irishpubdublinbay.com 14 (FRI) • DJs: Lindstorm, Shinya, Kazuya 8527 • alzar.jp sexuals, Heterosexuals’ Ladies CIRCUS Only Party Imoto, Nazanae + more • Open: EXODUS 9pm • Admission: ¥3,500/1D CIRCUS Hybrid Mind Japan Tour 2018 • DJs: TBA • Open: 11pm • Onosim 3rd Anniversary Blast Admission: ¥3,700/1D (ADV: (ADV: ¥3,000/1D) • Where: Kyoto • “Circus Loves Drum&Bass” in Lawrence “Illusions” Release “Natural Disaster” (Psychedelic ¥3,200/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi Tel: 075-213-4119 • world-kyoto. Tour in Osaka (Techno/House) Trance) Osaka (Drum&Bass) com • DJs: Hybrid Mind + more • Tel: 06-6214-1223 • club-joule. • DJs: Lawrence, Ono, Mitsuyas + • Live: Transient Disorder, com more • Open: 11pm • Admission: Spectra Sonics • DJs: Yuji, Yuki, • Open: 11pm • Admission: 16 (SUN) ¥3,100/1D (ADV: ¥2,600/1D) • ¥2,600/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi Shiva + more • Open: 10pm • METRO COMPUFUNK RECORDS • Tel: 06-6241-3822 • circus- Admission: ¥3,500 • Where: Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06- osaka.com Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6532-9385 6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com Bong Bros Records presents Compufunk Records feat. Fit • exodus728.com Born Free vol. 22(Alternative Siegel (Techno) 8 (SAT) METRO Hip Hop) • DJs: Fit Siegel, Mitsuki, Cota, • Acts: Backroom, Takatsuki Compufunk + more • Open: 6pm– CIRCUS NOON + CAFE Do it Jazz! 12th Anniversary Special (Jazz/Crossover) Posse, Bong Bros, Road to Load, 12am • Admission: ¥2,500/1D • Beautiful Universe #2 (House/ Gajiro, Dan + more • Open: 11pm Where: Kitahama • Tel: 06-6314- Techno) • Acts: Jaxx Madicine, Kyoto Jazzy Blue Tribe, Masaki Tamura, • Admission: ¥3,000/1D (ADV: 6541 • compufunk.com

42 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com See Kansaifinder.com for more What’s On  Clubs & Nightlife

17 (MON) • Where: Umeda • Tel: 06-6809-5895 • Admission: ¥3,500/1D (ADV: • clubpiccadilly.com ¥2,800/1D, Entry Before 11pm: METRO ¥3,000/1D) • Where: Kitahama • Tel: DEC 30 (SUN) 24 (MON/HOLIDAY) 06-6314-6541 • compufunk.com Sequence. (Electro/Techno/House) COMPUFUNK RECORDS • DJs: Shin, Sota, Yutaro, Shintaro JOULE MAHARAJA MINAMI Fujita + more • Open: 9:30am • Club Joule & ATG presents Lucas MIDI_sai is bringing it again this Admission: ¥2,000/1D • Where: Kyoto Maharaja All Mixxx Guest DJ John & Steve (Future House) year! DJ Stingray, AKA Drexciyan • Tel: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp • DJs: Lucas & Steve + more • Robinson (Disco/Techno/House) • DJs: John Robinson + more • Open: DJ Stingray, AKA Sherard Ingram 21 (FRI) Open: 2pm–9pm • Admission: ¥5,100/1D (ADV: ¥4,400/1D) • Where: 7pm–2am • Admission: Men: ¥4,000, will be donning the mask and Women: ¥3,000 • Where: Shinsaibashi METRO Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6214-1223 • tearing up the club with some of club-joule.com • Tel: 06-4704-8066 • maharaja-m.jp Connected Underground (Techno/ the best Detroit techno. Ingram is Tech House/Juke) TROOP CAFÉ • DJs: Fulltono, Compufunk, Ryoma NAMBA HATCH known for his dark style of Detroit Sasaki, Ouchi S, Koichi, Wataru A Hundred Birds Orchestra Lasting ‘10 Years’ Countdown Eve electro/techno and his work with Party (House/Techno) Horiuchi + more • Open: 10pm • “Dance Music meets Orchestral • DJs: Fumiya Tanaka, Masafumi Drexcia and Urban Tribe. The Admission: ¥2,200/1D • Where: Kyoto Unit on Christmas 2018” (Orches- • Tel: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp tra/House) Onishi, Soichi + more • Open: 10pm • American-born Beijing-based act • Live: A Hundred Birds Orchestra Admission: TBA • Where: Kobe • Tel: Osheyack will be performing his 22 (SAT) 078-321-3130 • troopcafe.jp feat.Ten, Sugami, Stella, Sweep & unique blend of industrial/techno/ JOULE MC Gebo, Yoku + more • Open: 8pm • Admission: ¥4,500/1D • Where: WORLD KYOTO gabber. They will be supported by Sushi presents AC Slater (Bass Namba • Tel: 06-4397-0572 • namba- World Peace Love #7 Showtek in some of Osaka’s finest. Ka4u—the House) hatch.com Kyoto (EDM) brain behind MIDI_sai—will be • DJs: AC Slater, Jaxx Da Fishworks, • DJs: Showtek + more • Open: Yashima, Idiot Yuuka, Edogaa + 28 (FRI) 10pm • Admission: ¥5,500/1D (ADV: joined by Portal, Distest, Shaka- more • Open: 10pm • Admission: CIRCUS ¥6,000/1D) • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075- itchi, and more. Compufunk ¥3,400/1D (ADV: ¥2,900/1D) • Where: 213-4119 • world-kyoto.com Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6214-1223 • 1 Night 1 DJ – DJ Nobu Open to records, one of the oldest record club-joule.com Last – (Techno) shops in Amemura, moved to • DJs: Nobu • Open: 11pm • Kitahama in 2017 and is the venue METRO Admission: ¥3,000/1D (ADV: January for this year’s party. MIDIsai has DJ Colaboy presents Homesick 38 ¥2,000/1D) • Where: Shinsaibashi • (Electro/House) Tel: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com become the premier underground • DJs: Yakenohara, Okadada, party, consistently bringing the TROOP CAFE 12 (SAT) Whasman, Nutman, Colaboy + more best local and international acts • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥3,800/1D Phc meets Tropicalis (Bass/ EXODUS (ADV: ¥3,300/1D) • Where: Kyoto • Tel: Techno/World) for their year-end parties. It’s guar- 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp • Acts: Prabumi, Kazuma, Halptribe, Trancist 7th Anniversary Party anteed to be a good time. Zumbo + more • Open: 11pm (Psychedelic Trance) • Live: Cylon • DJs: Hanabi + more NOON + CAFE • Admission: ¥2,500/1D (ADV: Midi_sai Year-end Special! feat. DJ Stingray ¥2,000/1D, Under23yrs: ¥1,500/1D) • • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥3,500 • Niagara (House/Techno) Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6532- & Osheyack (Techno/Breakcore/Rave) • ACTS: • DJs: Kza, Kota, Akihiro + more • Where: Kobe • Tel: 078-321-3130 • Stingray, Osheyack , Ka4u, Portal, Distest, troopcafe.jp 9385 • exodus728.com Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥2,500/1D • Shaka-ichi, Technoman + more • OPEN: 8pm Where: Umeda • Tel: 06-6373-4919 • 29 (SAT) • ADMISSION: ¥3,500/1D (ADV: ¥2,800/1D; Entry noon-cafe.com Before 11PM: ¥3,000/1D) • WHERE: Kitahama • TEL: CIRCUS 06-6314-6541 • compufunk.com 23 (SUN/ HOLIDAY) February Club Snoozer Osaka 2018 Closing CIRCUS Party! (Electro/Dance/House) • DJs: Soichiro Tanaka, Hisashi Fantastik (Hardstyle/Rave/Hard- 8 (FRI) tek) the Kid • Open: 11pm • Admission: • Acts: Morphonics, Caz, M.Minami, ¥3,100 /1D (ADV: ¥2,600) • Where: TRIANGLE Linda, Yuko Urameshi, Metronom, Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com Critical Sound Osaka supported Numb’n’Dub + more • Open: 11:30pm by Trippin Factory (Drum&Bass) • Admission: ¥2,500/1D • Where: WEST HARLEM • Acts: Kasra, 9Castle, Takaki, Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6241-3822 • Fuse, Giddlah Selecta, Shaka-ichi, circus-osaka.com Toshinose (House/Techno) Naga, Yanmah + more • Open: • Acts: Tanukeep & G, Toshiki, 10pm • Admission: ¥3,600/1D (ADV: OCTAVE Masahiko Takeda + more • Open: ¥2,600/1D, Foreigners: ¥1,600/1D) • Kikikaikai (House/Techno/Tribal) 10pm • Admission: ¥2,000/1D • Where: Shinsaibashi • Tel: 06-6212- • Acts: Kihira Naoki, Mdm Columbia, Where: Kyoto • Tel: 050-1016- 2264 • triangleosaka.com Daichi, Dsk, Tossy, Piper + more • 0099 • kyotosalsa.com facebook: Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥3,000/1D westharlem • Where: Kyoto • facebook.com/ 30 (SUN) octavekyoto COMPUFUNK RECORDS PICCADILLY Midi_sai Year-end Special! feat, Dropgun / Retro Vision Japan DJ Stingray & Osheyack (Techno/ Tour in Osaka (Future House) Breakcore/Rave) • DJs: Dropgun, Retro Vision + more • • Acts: Stingray, Osheyack , Open: 4pm–10pm • Admission: ¥4,500 Ka4u, Portal, Distest, Shaka-ichi, DJ STINGRAY Technoman + more • Open: 8pm

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 43 Food & Drink

Fylgdu Mér Osaka OSAKA ETHNIC This uber-stylish eatery gets its name from the Icelandic for “follow me.” Follow your taste buds here and enjoy beautifully arranged mediterranean and middle eastern dishes, and cold pressed juices. Their meze plate lunch with pita bread (¥1,800) is a delicious assortment of meze-style tapas, including falafel, kofta, avocado hummus, and a curry-infused soup. The interior is sleek and modern, with extremely low lighting. The minimalism continues on the outside too, so much so that you could easily walk past without noticing this culinary oasis. 1-13-17 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku • Tel. 06-4394-8715 • fylgdumer.jp/osaka

COCOWELL CAFE Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-15-10 • TEL: 06-6543- freshly baked by their sister shop Osaka 7071 JAPANESE Healthy, coconut-laced Westwood Bakers. lunch plates and desserts are SAUCE BOSS Nishishinsaibashi, 1-10-35 • TEL: 06-4963- the focus of this all-day dining 9840 SHINSAIBASHI eco-friendly cafe in Horie. AMERICAN Serving up mouth- watering chicken wings in a huge PAPRIKA SHOKUDO PIZZERIA DA TIGRE Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-13-21 • TEL: 06-6531- variety of flavors, with craft beer 5572 JAPANESE Vegetarian/vegan ITALIAN A down-to-earth pizzeria and original fresh fruit cocktails to wash them down. restaurant serving creative serving up a tasty range of BASE ISLAND KITCHEN meat-free dishes - so flavorsome authentic, sensibly priced Nishi-ku, Kitahorie, 1-5-13 • TEL: 06-7171- ETHNIC This tiny counter-only you could swear you were eating Napoli-style pizzas. Pizzas are 7938 meat sometimes! ordered via a ramen shop-style restaurant serves up an ticket machine. Sit at their eclectic mix of delicious tapas BISTRO D’ANJOU Shinmachi 1-9-9, Nishi-ku • TEL: 06-6599- u-shaped counter or takeaway. ranging from vegetarian and 9788 vegan dishes to Jamaican Jerk FRENCH Osaka’s oldest bistro, 1-18-13 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku • Tel. 06- Chicken! Open until 5pm daily. Anjou has been serving classic EL PANCHO 6535-8624 brasserie food to a loyal Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-16-27 following for 40 years. MEXICAN Serving up authentic KUUSHIN Mexican fare since 1978, El TABIJI KITCHEN B1F, 2-6-18, Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6211- Pancho offers great value combo CHINESE Choose from daily A or B 6085 ETHNIC Choose your dish by plates and a happy hour that set lunches or an evening course runs from 11:30am–5pm daily! of creative chinese cuisine its country of origin, in this AN NGON comfortable restaurant that Shinsaibashi Tower Bldg. 8F • TEL: 06- at one of the tastiest chinese ETHNIC An Ngon certainly lives restaurants in Osaka. serves up everything from 6241-0588 Vietnamese pho to English up to its name, meaning “it’s Nishi Ward, Shinmachi, 1−21−2 • Tel. 06- Shepherd’s Pie, depending on delicious” in Vietnamese. The ALI’S KITCHEN 6532-7729 the day of the week. cozy restaurant is adorned with traditional masks and other ETHNIC Halal-certified Pakistani TOKI NO HA Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-14-20 • TEL: 06-6567- Vietnamese decorations and and Arabic cuisine, with over 8403 boasts an extensive menu. 200 menu items, including their CHINESE Delicious bowls of popular goat brain masala and noodles and freshly steamed CRAFT BURGER 4-11-24 Minamisenba Chuo-ku • TEL: signature biryani dishes. dumplings are the main draw 06-6282-4567 at this chinese tea emporium AMERICAN Run by a friendly B1 1-10-12 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo-ku • TEL: run by the same owner/chef as Aussie expat and his wife, CAFE ABSINTHE 06-4708-5745 Kuushin. Craft Burger offers a delicious selection of burgers of which ETHNIC Stylish Mediterranean CHAI CHAI Nishi Ward, Shinmachi, 1−21−2 • Tel. 06- the patties, buns, and all their restaurant and bar serving 6532-6001 craft cocktails, and excellent ETHNIC Fantastically spicy sauces are handmade with the authentic Indian curries, served freshest ingredients. food, including hummus, falafel SNOW LION and babaganoush. with basmati rice and vegetable Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-6 • TEL: 06-6556-6682 side dishes, at this slightly ETHNIC The dazzling array of Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-2-27 • TEL: 06-6534- off-the-beaten-path curry shop golden Buddha statues, Buddhist BISTRO NEW ORLEANS 6635 in Kitahorie. thangka paintings and other Tibetan ornaments and artworks AMERICAN Authentic New Orleans- CRITTERS BURGER Nishi-ku Kitahorie 3-2-12 • TEL: 06-6532- style restaurant, serving up 1103 that pack this unique restaurant AMERICAN Seriously good makes it feel like you’re eating in Creole and Cajun dishes from its cosy Shinsaibashi location. burgers and a great selection a fine art gallery. of toppings at this chilled out Shinmachi 1-14-2 2F. Tel. 06-6585-9592. store in Amemura. Buns are

44 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com See Kansaifinder.com for more Food & Drink

SATURDAYS NYC THE BLARNEY STONE with five screens and a full food wonderful riverside location CAFES AND TEAROOMS Laid-back, BARS Irish pub in the heart of menu including its authentic in Kitahama, overlooking the spacious cafe cum boutique Shinsaibashi with live bands, homemade meat pies. Central Public Hall. with a large island counter to great food and international Chuo-ku Nishishinsaibashi 2-16-13 Hosen 2 Chome-1-16 Kitahama, Chuo Ward • TEL: recharge both your laptop and staff. Happy Hour until 8pm. Bldg. 1F • TEL: 06-6213-5153 06-6125-5740 your senses. Higashi-Shinsaibashi 2-5-27 Koda Bldg. 4-13-22 Minamisenba, Chuo-ku • TEL: B1F • TEL: 06-6468-2220 THE SUITE TENNOJI 06-4963-3711 WINE AND COCKTAILS Modeled after COCOMOMO&CO. HANA SAKE BAR a 1920s New York hotel suite, this TAVOLA 36 place is as suave as it gets and ETHNIC Wholesome fusion BARS With friendly English- cuisine in Tennoji serving up ITALIAN Occupying the 36th floor speaking staff on hand to guide the perfect spot for some post- dinner cocktails. Featuring live Mediterranean, Asian and British of the Swissôtel in Namba, this you, try a range of local sake favorites and tempting cakes and upscale restaurant serves an and other Japanese spirits at entertainment every weekend on its chandelier-lit stage area. desserts. Great for vegetarians, excellent buffet lunch and offers this casual bar in the heart vegans and families. some fantastic views over the of Shinsaibashi. Chuo Ward, Nishishinsaibashi, 2-18-18 • Abeno-ku, Matsuzakicho 3-6-2 • TEL: city day or night. TEL: 06-6282-7742 1-8-4, Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo-ku 06-6624-8323 5-1-60 Namba, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-6646- ZERRO 5125 SUSHI KAIBA LEZZET CRAFTBEER & FOOD BARS Popular Shinsaibashi bar JAPANESE Marrying a modern EXPERIENCE MURPHY’S IRISH PUB Japanese interior with authentic with live DJs every weekend and BARS Japan’s oldest Irish bar and nigiri-zushi, Kaiba sets the no cover charge. Great food, CRAFT BEER BARS A craft beer bar proud to provide the cheapest standard for casual sushi dining. cocktails and international beers with a great tap selection and full pint in Osaka, Guinness and Choose from set courses or a from 500 yen. extensive food menu, including Kilkenny direct from Ireland, and la carte. Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-suji 2-3-2 • TEL: weekly specials and full-plate 06-6211-0439 pasta dinners. No smoking. a comprehensive selection of Kitahorie 1-15-22 • TEL: 06-6532-2918 whiskeys and spirits. Abeno-ku, Matsuzaki-cho 2-3-21 • TEL: 06-7850-1412 Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-Suji 1-5-2 2F • TEL: COOLABAH UMEDA 06-6245-3757 SPORTS BARS An Australian/New BEER BELLY TIN’S HALL Zealand themed sports bar/cafe CRAFT BEER BARS Osaka’s local BARS A perennial favorite for award-winning brewery, many expats, serving good bar Minoh Beer, runs a brewpub in food and drinks. Look out for Higobashi. Serving seasonal happy hour from 6–9pm where a Farmstand brews as well as its regular beer and generously sized burger lineup on tap, including its combo is just 1,000yen. Free live HYOGO award winning stout and decent music on Saturday nights. bar food. JAPANESE Tennoji Ward, Minamikawahoricho, 10−3 • Nishi-ku, Tosabori 1-1-30 • TEL: 06-6441- TEL: 06-6773-5955 Farm-to-table is the concept at this Kitano-zaka cafe and 0717 market—the hub of local co-operative farming movement Eat DARUMA Local Kobe. Using only locally sourced ingredients, they serve PIERRE healthy and nutritious lunch sets (¥1,000), homemade cakes, JAPANESE No frills, kushikatsu and local dairy soft-serve ice cream. Sit outside if the weather FRENCH The InterContinental (deep-fried battered meat and allows, or inside at one of their shared-seating tables. Free- Osaka’s 21st floor Michelin- vegetables on sticks) dining range eggs, seasonal vegetables, and other local produce are starred restaurant features a in front of Tsutenkaku Tower. available at their small in-store farmers’ market. seasonal fine dining menu in Remember the golden rule when sophisticated surroundings. 1-7-15 Yamamoto-dori, Chuo Ward, Kobe • eatlocalkobe.org reaching for the sauce – no 3-60 Ofuka-cho, Kita-ku • TEL: 06-6374- double dipping! 5700 Osaka, Naniw-ku, Ebisucho-higashi 2-3-9 • TEL: 06-6645-7056 OUTBACK STEAKHOUSE AMERICAN Australian-themed ZUBORAYA steakhouse chain, serving up JAPANESE One of Shinsekai’s juicy steaks, ribs, and seafood. iconic restaurants. Look for Kita-ku, Dojima 1-6-20 • TEL: 06-6457-7121 the giant blowfish lantern that seems to be floating in midair. HARDROCK CAFE Whatever form of blowfish you AMERICAN International chain can imagine, Zuboraya has it at offering authentic American an affordable price. favorites – including its famous Naniwa-Ku, Ebisu-Higashi 2-5-5 • TEL: burgers and smokehouse 06-6633-5529 sandwiches – and live music on the weekends. AOI NAPOLI IN THE PARK 3-6-14 Minami-Hommachi, Chuo-ku • TEL: ITALIAN Airy two-storey trattoria 06-6120-5711 serving quality pizza and pasta, located in the recently renovated BROOKLYN ROASTING Tenshiba park area. Good choice COMPANY (KITAHAMA) for families with children. CAFES AND TEAROOMS Great coffee 5-55 Chausuyamacho, Tennoji-ku • TEL: and relaxing decor at this 06-6773-2225

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 45

See Kansaifinder.com for more Food & Drink

Spice Chamber KYOTO ETHNIC One of the plusses of dining at kappo (counter-style) curry restaurant Spice Chamber is that you can see your food prepared from start to finish taking in the delicious scents of various spices in anticipation of your feast. Try the New York chicken curry or the house special keema curry, a dry minced-meat-based South East Asian dish. Unlike Japanese- style curry, the keema at this narrow eatery has a kick to it. Topped with a pickled Japanese plum or other house-made special, the dishes are accompanied by tsukemono (pickles): carrots, daikon (radish), and cabbage, sweet and cool to relieve the fire of the curry, but only fleetingly. 1F Fukui Bldg., 502 Hakurakuten-cho, Muromachi-dori, Ayanokoji-sagaru, Shimogyo-ku • 075-342-3813

Shimogyo-ku Juzenjicho, 3 201 • TEL: KIYAMACHI SAKURAGAWA this small, cosy family-run Kyoto 075-352-6666 JAPANESE Japanese fine dining, restaurant in Motomachi. The lamb or chicken biryani comes MILTON’S KYOTO kaiseki style. Sit at the cypress wood counter and watch as highly recommended. BARS ROCK BAR ING Cosy hole-in-the-wall the chef prepares a meal of Chuo-ku, Motomachi-dori 3-11-10 • TEL: 8-seater bar run by English- exquisite dishes focused on the 078-332-1660 BAR A stalwart of the Kiyamachi speaking local artist, Milton. bar scene since 1998, this small freshest seasonal ingredients. A huge choice of liquors to Reservations required. TRITON CAFE but cosy rock’n’roll bar promises choose from, including a good good times, cheap beer and range of rums and whiskies. Nijokudaru-Kamikorikicho-491, CAFES & TEAROOMS Popular, stylish great music. Non smoking. Kiyamachi-dori, Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075- open-plan cafe on Kitano-zaka, 255-4477 serving up food all day, including 288-201 Minami Kuruyamacho, Nishi Nakagyo Ward, Yamazakicho 246 2F Kiyamachidori Takoyakushi-Agaru, bistro-style lunch plates and homemade desserts. Nakagyo-Ku • Tel: 075-255-5087 UMENOHANA KARASUMA 1-23-16 Nakayamatedori, Chuo-ku • TEL: NISHITOMIYA CROQUETTE JAPANESE Tofu in all its forms and Hyogo 078-251-1886 variations, coupled with seasonal SHOP vegetables and presented in THE ROCK JAPAN JAPANESE Gourmet croquettes a stunning fine dining setting. BOND paired with wine and tasty English menu available. SPORTS BARS Australian sports appetizers served in a cozy bar; ITALIAN A spacious, sleek open bar and grill, offering up popular Nakagyo Ward, Karasuma-Rokkaku, West plan interior serving up quality Aussie favorites including at wine barrels that double as 18 Bldg. B1F • TEL: 075-254-0566 tables or on stools at the counter. pasta dishes and trattoria-style kangaroo burgers and steak and mains just in front of the Mosque Guinness pies. These special fusion croquettes KATSUKURA SANJO are even available for takeout. in Kobe’s Kitano area. Their 2F, 3-5-6 Kanou-cho, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: JAPANESE Grind your own chocolate tart with mountain- 078-393-2111 Kyoto, Shimogyo Ward, Kawaramachi sesame seeds at this stylish sansho is a real treat. Matsubara Sagaru Uematsu-cho 735 • Tel: chain of tonkatsu (pork cutlet) 075-202-9837 Kobe, Chuo-ku, Yamate-dori 3-3-5 • 078- PIZZERIA AZZURRI restaurants. Great value set 252-0052 meals including all-you-can-eat ITALIAN Delicious authentic BEER KOMACHI Napoli-style pizzas and rice, miso soup and shredded LA TABLE DE YAMASAKI CRAFT BEER BARS A small izakaya- cabbage. The Sanjo branch is the antipasto, served from a small style dining bar with seven taps original store. FRENCH This delightful little location near Kitano. One of the of Japanese craft beer and a bistro just opened in the summer most popular pizzerias in Kobe, 16, Ishibashicho, Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075- and is already attracting a loyal so be sure to make a reservation, good sake menu to boot. Serves 212-3581 excellent food. following. Located down a small or arrive early. alley just off Tor Road, this Chuo Ward, Yamamotodori, 3-7-3 • TEL: 444 Hachikencho, Higashiyama Ward • TEL: KUSHIKURA stylish yet unpretentious little 078-241-6036 075-746-6152 JAPANESE Charcoal grilled bistro is a real gem, serving up chicken and seasonal vegetables authentic French fare, including KYOTO BEER LAB dishes served in a beautiful mouthwatering desserts. CRAFT BEER BARS A cosy brewpub 100-year-old traditional Kobe, Chuo-ku, Yamate-dori 2-14-2 • Need more dining run by Kyoto’s own ChaBeer kyo-machiya house. 078-335-7813 Brewing Company, offering some 584 Hiiragi-cho Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075- options? rather unusual beers, including 213-2211 INDUSRAY its American Hopped Green Tea See complete listings online at Pale Ale, infused with green tea ETHNIC Authentic southern-Indian grown in nearby Wazuka-cho. home-cooked food, served from kansaifinder.com

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 47 Maps & Info Welcome To Kansai

Getting Around Taxis The Kansai area covers the Fares start from ¥500. The prefectures of Osaka, Kyoto, drivers wearing white gloves Hyogo, Wakayama, Nara, Mie, and official hats tend to be the and Shiga. There is so much most courteous, but don’t expect to explore, so you’ll need to English to be widely understood. prioritize your time wisely. Its Have your destination name and main travel hubs are Osaka, address on hand in Japanese. Kyoto, and Kobe, all of which are well connected by high-speed Airport Transfers KYOTO rail networks, including the To/from downtown Osaka, the GET KANSAI SCENE shinkansen (bullet train). most convenient option is the Kansai Scene is available Hotels and Guesthouses On regular trains, you can travel Nankai Rapi:t Express service between Osaka and Kyoto in (KIX <> Namba 42mins) or a from the following major Royal Hotel, Royal Park about 45 mins, and between Limousine Bus. To/from Kyoto, outlets in the Kansai Hotel The Kyoto, Kyoto Kobe and Osaka in about 30 take the JR Airport Express region: Nikko Hotel mins. If you are here on holiday, HARUKA service (75 mins). pick up a convenient travel Tourist Information pass, such as the Kansai Thu ATMs and Credit Cards OSAKA Centers Pass (surutto.com) or Kansai If you’re using Visa, you will be One Pass (kansaionepass.com), able to withdraw cash at most Hotels and Guesthouses Kyoto Tourist Information to avoid having to negotiate bank or convenience-store ATMs. Center, Kansai Tourist the ticket machines. Use a Hyatt Regency, Nikko If you’re using Mastercard, your Information Center website such as HyperDia best bet for withdrawing money Hotel, St. Regis, Swissôtel (hyperdia.com) to check train is at 7-Eleven ATMs. Most other Nankai Osaka, Ritz Kyoto, Kyoto International times and platforms from your ATMs in Kansai do not accept Carlton, Hilton Osaka, Community House smartphone. Mastercard. It is not common Fraser Residence Nankai Shops Trains and Subways to make in-store payments using credit or visa-debit cards Osaka, InterContinental Junkudo Kyoto, Maruzen & There is an excellent rail in Japan, even for expensive Hotel Osaka network connecting all corners purchases. Many shops and Junkudo Kyoto Main Store, of Kansai. As well as JR (Japan restaurants do not offer this Tourist Information GEAR Rail), there are numerous private service, so be sure to carry Centers railway companies servicing the plenty of cash with you. area, including Keihan (Osaka/ Osaka Visitors Information KOBE Kyoto), Hankyu (Osaka/Kyoto), Wi-Fi Center (JR Osaka), Nankai (Osaka, Wakayama, Hotels and Guesthouses Getting connected in Kansai can Hankyu Tourist Center Koya), Hanshin (Osaka/Kobe), be tricky. Renting a smartphone Kobe Bay Sheraton, Kobe and Kintetsu (Osaka/Nara/Mie/ Umeda, Osaka Visitors or SIM card at the airport is the Portopia Hotel Nagoya). Each line operates safest option, to connect to the Information Center (JR several types of train. For the internet over a 3G or 4G network. Tourist Information fastest trains, look for the Namba), Kansai Tourist In Osaka, you can access the Centers Limited Express service trains. Osaka Free Wi-Fi service at Information Center (KIX), Be aware that Local trains stop train and subway stations, Kansai Tourist Information Kobe International at every station on the line, so stores and facilities throughout Center (Shinsaibashi), Community Center, Hyogo only take them if no other type the prefecture. of train stops at your station. Nankai Information Center International Plaza Subways operate in Osaka, Kobe, Accidents and (Namba) and Kyoto and are an extremely Shops efficient way to get around Emergencies Shops Junkudo Nishinomiya, the cities. Ambulance/Fire service: Tel. 119 Kinokuniya Bookstore Junkudo Sannomiya, Tip: Pick up a Railway Network Police: Tel. 110 map from a major station or Umeda, Kinokuniya Kinokuniya Kobe Tourist Information Center. Honmachi, Tower Records Buses Umeda, Junkudo Namba, Hard Rock Cafe For out-of-the-way locations, or in certain cities such as Kyoto, you may need to take a bus. A travel pass usually includes travel on municipal bus services.

48 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com See Kansaifinder.com for more Maps & Info

Loft OSAKA Umeda OSAKA A B C D Theater Maruzen & Umeda Junkudo Post Office InterContinental Osaka Loop Line Osaka Club Nakazaki-cho Hotel Hub Azul Club Noon Cine Libre Noon+Cafe Umeda Hankyu Kitano Umeda Sky New Hankyu Osaka Hotel Umeda Sta. Hosp. Building Grand Front German Osaka / Kinokuniya Kids Plaza Consulate Knowledge Osaka Capital H&M Miyakojima-dori 1 Westin 35F Hankyu OWL Osaka 1 Hotel Yodobashi Camera Tourist Toho umeda Center Annex Hotel TRAD Ogimachi Shangrila Osaka Umekita Hep 5 Kinki YWCA Park Plaza Umeda Hep Navio Hankyu Craft Beer Osaka Station Grand Bldg Toho Cinemas Base City Cinema Lucua Umeda Hankyu Higashidori Arcade Hankyu

Shin Midosuji JR Osaka Dept. Lucua 1100 Sonezaki Daimaru Higashi Umeda Police H.Q. The Symphony Hall Osaka Umeda Club Station City Quattro Hanshin Expressway (Moriguchi Route) Visitors’ Information Hotel Hanshin Center Granvia Dept. Hilton HanshinJunkudo Umeda Sta. Umeda Plaza West Burg7 6F Hotel Drop Inn Hilton The Blarney Kansai Osaka Hotel Stone Always Herbis Dai-4 Hearton Ent Tower Bldg. Osaka Dental Maru Records Clinic 2 Hotel Bldg. 3/4F 2 Nishiumeda TGI Fridays Hotel 3RD WORD Beer Monterey Dai-3 Outback 2F Bldg. Osaka Dai-1 Dai-2 Steakhouse Nishi Umeda Creamy Herbis Bldg. Bldg. Osaka Exeo The Ritz-Carlton Kita Shinchi 33F Osaka Tanimachi Line Captain Kangaroo Midosuji Line Route No.2 Mister Kelly’s FUKUSHIMAHotel KITA SHINCHI Fukushima Sta. Hanshin US Dojima Avanza Consulate Hotel Elsereine Osaka ACCJ Hanshin Main Line JR Tozai Line Ana Crowne NISHI TENMA Fukushima Sta. Yotsubashi Line Kansai DOJIMA Plaza Dojima Hanshin Expressw ay (Loop Route) NTT Hotel Shin-Fukushima Sta. Data Dojima River Nakanoshima Dori 3 Forum Oebashi 3 Conrad Bank of Library ABC Hall Watanabebashi Osaka Festival Japan City Hall Museum of Hall Oriental Ceramics Keihan-Nakanoshima Line Nakanoshima Festival Osaka City Tower West Public Hall Naniwabashi Dojima River Tosabori River Mitsui Garden GARB Weeks Hotel

The National Yodoyabashi Mitsui Brooklyn Roasting Museum of Art, APA Hotel Higobashi Sumitomo Company Kitahama Osaka Bank Tenmabashi Rihga Science Nakanoshima

Inn Kitahama NAKANOSHIMAMuseum Beer Belly KITAHAMA

Nakanoshima Sta.Rihga Royal Hotel APA Villa Nii Fine Arts Osaka International Hotel YMCA 4 Convention Center Daiwa Roynet 4 (Grand Cube Hotel Kitahama Osaka) Elmers Sumitomo Green Cafe Hosp. EDOBORI Yotsubashisuji Midosuji Maekawa Tosabori Dori Legal Group

Craft Beer il Bar Central TAKAMURA Base Garden Banco Wine & Coffee Roasters OSTEC Amidaikesuji Exibition Hall Sakaisuji Line

Naniwasuji

Utsubo Park Daiichi Group

Kitamido

5 Utsubo 5 Tennis Center APA Soai Hotel High Starbucks School The St. Regis, Hooters Honmachi Dori Osaka Osaka Starbucks

Honmachi Hard Rock Cafe Osaka Honmachi Chuo Odori Chuo Line Hanshin Expressway Honmachi Sakaisujihommachi A B C D

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 49 Maps & Info

A B C D Shinmachi Kita Park Namba Daiwa Roynet Shrine Hotel MoeJoe SHINMACHI Maharaja Minami Hearton Hotel Anngon MINAMI-SEMBA Life Big Beans 1 Supermarket bi-grace nail Arthur 1 Osaka Convention Murray Hearton Mizuho & Tourism Bureau Hotel

Hearton Shinsaibashi-suji (shopping arcade) Bank Hotel Via Inn Hotel Tokyu Nest Hotel Hands Saturdays NYC Yamaya Nishiohashi Nagahori dori Louis Vuitton GAP Shinsaibashi Nagahoribashi Nagahori Tsurumi-Ryokuchi line Toyoko Inn Ali’s Kitchen El Pancho KITA- Nishitetsu Inn 8F Uniqlo El SHINSAIBASHI Ark HORIE Zocalo Critters 5F Hotel Sauce Burger Boy Boss Daimaru Bistro Yotsubashi Via Inn Nikko FootRock 3F Dept. GS Travel New Saboten Hotel North &BEERS Orleans Craft EXODUS Osaka Hana Base Burger Hostel Banco OPA Daimaru

OSAKA Shinsaibashi Covent TABIJI Kitchen Cafe Hotel Garden Absinthe Vano Dept. Granknot Circus Mystays Coffee 2 Silver Ball 2F 2F 2 Planet Comfort Daimaru Murphy’s Minami Horie Big Step Hotel Cinem Dept. Police Park South The Blarney Triangle @rt Station MINAMI- Apple Suomachi-dori Stone B1F Triangle Store (Europe street) Hotel Bar Jaai HORIE Lions Rock Park JANUS Shimanouchi Chaolua Library The Suite Orange Street (shopping street) Tezukayama Joule HIGASHI- soma Cinquecento Gallery

Dormy Midosuji line 2F Inn Sun Hall SHINSAIBASHI Westwood Yotsubashi line Balabushka Dormy Bakers Ghost Vanity Ultralounge 4F Fujiya Inn Mustang Hotel Moonshine Zerro Slices Cross Ohno Memorial Moon Tower Hotel Hospital SOEMON-CHO Burlesque APA Naniwa-suji Kansai Tourist B1 B1 Vista Grande Kaneyoshi Coolabah Hotel Shinsaibashi-suji (shopping arcade) Osaka Information Center Pure ibis Styles Ryokan Sakaisuji line Dotonbori River Osaka L&L Don Quijote Osaka Don Quijote ROR Comedy Music Bar S.O.R.a Mexico Kinryu 3 Ramen 3 Namba Dotonbori Hotel New Japan Hatch Spa Plaza Osaka Shochikuza DOTONBORIHotel Sunroute ALZAR Kokopelli Osaka Namba Rooftop Hozenji National Bar OO Namba Hips Temple Osaka Floral Inn Bunraku Theater Tominaga Hospital Hotel Monterey Namba Namba Nipponbashi sta. Grasmere Sennichimae line Osaka Namba Sta. OCAT Junkudo BIC Camera

Casa Toho Cinemas Lapichu NAMBA Namba annex Namba Misono Singh’s JR Namba Sta. Toho Cinemas Oriental Building Kitchen Little Long Hotel Beach Namba Jazz Bar B-Roxy Visitors Namba Plaza 4 INARI Information Hotel 4 Hotel Center MUJI/LOFT Ichiei Takashimaya Tower Absinthe Dept. Store Records Solaar APA Hotel AEON Maruzen Swissôtel Kuromon MaxValu Nankai Market MOTO- Osaka NIPPON-

MACHI Fraser BASHI Residence Nankai Namba Station

McDonalds Sofmap Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium K2 record Naniwa Park Namba Pub Bar 30 PARKS NAMBA 2F 5 NAMBA 5 -NAKA Naniwa Sports PARKS Otaroad Center CINEMA Animate Nihonbashi Shop Naniwa Post Office Toys”R”Us

Yamada Jack & Queen Denki LABI1 Namba Naniwa Ward Office A B C D

50 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com See Kansaifinder.com for more Maps & Info Osaka Castle Osaka OSAKA A B C D

Keihan Mall Tozai Line Osaka Tenmangu

Mint Taiko-en Kyobashi Kyobashi Museum

Osakajo- kitazume AEON Kyobashi KYOBASHI

Osaka Business Park Hotel Monterey Museum of La Souer Osaka 1 Oriental Ceramics TENMA Shigino 1 Hotel New Otani Osaka Subway Tanimachi Line Keihan Main Line Izumi Hall Tenmabashi

Kitahama Osaka-jo Hall

Tenmabashi Osaka Prefectural Osaka-jo Koen Government Office Osaka Castle

MyDome Hanshin Expressway Expressway Hanshin Osaka Yamamoto Noh Theater The Lutheran Subway Sakaisuji Line Hotel Osaka Osaka Chamber of Castle Park Commerce and Industry APA Hotel Osaka Museum 2 NHK of History Subway Imazato Line 2 KKR Hotel Osaka Loop Line Osaka Hall Osaka Subway Chuo Line

Hanshin Expressway Higashi Osaka Route Morinomiya

Tanimachi 4-chome Morinomiya Q’s Mall BASE

Sakaisuji Honmachi TAMATSUKURI Osaka Jogakuin College A B C D OSAKA TennojiOSAKA A B C D Tennoji Zepp Ward Office Namba

Momodani

Yuhigaoka

Shitennoji-mae SHITENNOJI

Shitennoji

Ebisucho

Daikokucho Imamiya Honbo Hanshin Express Route 1 Ebisu Shrine 1 1 Shitennoji

Imamiyaebisu

EBISUNISHI Tsutenkaku Line Tanimachi

Osaka City Osaka Loop Line Osaka Museum Tennoji of Fine Arts Spa World Zoo Shin-Imamiya

Nankai Shin-Imamiya Dobutsuen-mae

Kansai MainTenshiba Line Tennoji Sta. Midosuji Line Tin’s Hall Tennoji Kansai Kyoiku Hanwa Line Teradacho Osaka Municipal Sta. University University Hospital Abeno Tennoji 2 MIO 2 ROCKTOWN Harukas Osaka-Abenobashi Imaike 4F

Haginochaya Abeno Yotsubashi Line Q’s Mall Hoop Kintetsu Minami-Osaka Line Nankai Main Line JR Kansai Main Line Sakaisuji Line Hanazonocho Language Abeno Sta. Lezzet School Koboreguchi Sta. Imfune CocoMomo&Co.

Hankai Tramway A B C D

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 51 Maps & Info Jingu-Marutamachi

Marutamachi

A B C D

to Heian Shrine Hostel Mundo Chiquito

Nijo Castle Imperal Palace Palace Imperal to Kyoto Kyoto to The Ritz-Carlton 1 1 Kyoto International Manga Museum Nijojo-Mae Nakamura Hotel Okura General Store Hearton Hotel Kyoto City Hall

Nijo Clamp Coffee Mikane-Jinja Sasara Shrine Tozai Subway Line Kyotoshiyakusho-mae Yoboji Temple

Higashiyama

The Museum of Kyoto Sanjokeihan Karasuma Oike

Sanjo KYOTO Central Rokkakudo Temple Loft

Shounji Round One Kyoto BAL Kyoto Prefectural Nyorinin Gion Shirakawa Police Station Hozoji Temple Honnoji Temple Marker Kyoto Art Center Nishiki Market to Maruyama Park 2 2 Village Kyoto Yasaka Shrine Omiya Karasuma Kawaramachi Shin-Omiya Mitsui Garden Hotel Shijo Kyoto-Daijingu Shrine Gion-Shijo Gion Corner Mibudera Temple Shoenji Temple Bukkoji Temple Kennin-ji Temple Hojo Hotel Nikko Amore Kiyamachi Princess Kyoto Hanano Yu Yasui Konpiragu Shrine

Kamogawa River

Kotoku Park Daisenji Higashiyama Ward Office Yumeyakata Gojo

Gojo Kyoto Gojo Hotel Shuhokaku 3 Tambaguchi 3 to Kiyomizu-dera Seikoro Ichihime-Jinja Shrine Otani Hombyo Cemetary

Sumiya Motenashi Museum Toyokuni-Jinja Shrine Nishi Shosei-en Garden Honganji Higashi Temple Honganji Four Seasons Temple Kyoto National Museum Hotel Kyoto

Shichijo

Yodobashi Camera Sanjusangendo Chisaku-in Temple Kyoto Kyoto Aquarium Hyatt Regency Railway Kyoto Tower Kyoto Museum 4 APA Hotel 4 Umekoji Park Rhiga Royal Hotel Kyoto Century Hotel Bic Camera Kyoto Station Hotel Granvia

Rokusonno-Jinja Shrine Imakumano-Jinja Shrine New Miyako Hotel El Inn Kyoto

Aeon Mall Hotel Keihan Kyoto Grande

Toji Tofukuji

Sakura Terrace

Oji

5 Kujo 5

Zuirinji Temple Kyoto Terrsa Tofukuji Temple

Kyoto Brewing Co. Komyoin A B C D

52 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com See Kansaifinder.com for more Maps & Info KYOTO North KYOTO A B C Renge-ji Temple D Entsu-ji Temple Grand Prince Kokusaikaikan Sta. Hotel Kyoto Eizan Dentetsu Line ICC Kyoto Miyake-Hachiman Sta. Kamigamo Shrine Ota Shrine

e

n

i

Jinko-in Temple L

a

m u Takaragaike Sta. s a Takaragaike Park r Josho-ji Temple a K K a y m a Sekizanzen-in Temple o w Yusen-ji g b a w u Saginomori Imperial Villa 1 Genko-an Temple a S Myoen-ji 1 R i ve r Rinkyuji Temple Matsugasaki Sta. Kitayama Dori S Kitayama Sta. tre et Saginomori Shrine Dori Street Shugaku-in Sta. Kitayama Kyoto Concert Hall Manshu-in Nakaragi Path Monzeki Temple Kyoto Botanical Kinugasa Imamiya Shrine Garden Joshu-ji Temple Imamiya Dori Street r e iv Shisen-do Enkou-ji Temple Kitaouji Sta. Kamogawa Park R o n Temple a Ichijo-ji Sta. Daitoku-ji Kita Oji Dori Street k a Koutou-in Temple T Hachidai-Jinja Shrine Konpuku-ji Temple Shimogamo Nishi Dori Hotel Avanshell Kyoto Kinkaku-ji Shimogamo-Jinja Senbon Dori Street Keihan Outou Line Chayama Sta. Kurama-guchi Sta. Kyoto University Kawai-Jinja of Art & Design Shrine Mototanaka Sta. 2 2 Hirano-Jinja Shrine Falafel Nishi Oji Dori Street Shokoku-ji Temple Garden

Kitano Tenmangu Demachiyanagi Sta. Shirakawa Dori Street

Imadegawa Sta. Guesthouse Hyakumanben Randen Railways Stay SAKURA Imadegawa Dori Street t KirinYa e Chion-ji Temple e Kitano Line Kyoto Nishijin River Kamogawa r t

S

i Higashiyama Jisho-ji Daishougun Hachi Shrine Kyoto r Kitano o (Ginkaku-ji)

D Brighton Hakubaicho Sta. Kyoto i Yoshida-jinja Shrine j

Hotel Imperial Palace O

i

Aisen-ji Temple h Hounen-in Temple

s Tetsugaku-no-michi a Horikawa Dori Street

g (Philosopher's Path) Anraku-ji, and Reikan-ji i

A B H C D KYOTO Sanjo KYOTO A B C D Hearton Hotel Hotel Sugicho Kyoto International Kyoto Hotel Okura Manga Musuem Comme Shimadai des Garcons Gallery Tozai Line Kyotoshiyakusho-mae Kyoto Yoboji Temple High School Hotel Hiragiya Gimmond Honnoji Cafe Kocsi Temple Kyoto City Tourism Association Visitor Information Smart Coffee Qu'il Fait Bon Hana Hotel 1 Oike Karasuma Royal Higashiyama 1 The Museum Starbucks Park HUB Sanjo Nakagyo of Kyoto Hotel Daishogun Ogawa Post Office Sanjo Shrine Sanjo-dori Coffee Inoda Coffee Movix Kitsune Hotel Rokkakudo Kyoto Loft Kyoto Monterey Temple Kyoto Kyoto Game UrBANGUILD Frank's Panic Pontocho Chop Shop Kaburenjo Seiganji Theater Temple Kyoto Municipal Papa Jon's Gender Equality Hozo Police Cafe Rokkaku Box Center Temple Kyoto Koiyama Misayama Sugi Drug BAL Pontocho Shinmonso Park Shinkyogoku Kiyamachi-dori Park Kyonoyado Tosa-Inari Shrine (Misaki-jinja) Hotel Ponto Kyoto Kaginei Art Center Tatsumi Nishiki-tenmangu Keihan Main Line Bridge Shrine Nishiki Market Shirakawa river Ippudo Super Hotel

Nishikikouji Pontocho Jam Owls Forest Ninja Kyoto H&M Hostel Gion Kaikan McDonald’s Kyoto Kawaramachi OPA 2 Daimaru Kyoto Kamogawa River Kyoto Modern Yasaka 2 Kyoto Muse Junkudo Zara Art Museum Shrine Shijo-dori Karasuma Kawaramachi Hankyu Kyoto Line VOU McDonald’s Takashimaya Marui Minamiza Theater Tokyu Art Gallery Kyoto Kanji Museum Cocon Hands Department Karasuma Store Eggs ‘n Things Kyoto Daijingu Gion-Shijo Shrine Hotel Sunline Karasuma Shijo Shoenji Temple Hanamikoji-dori Gion Corner Hotel

A B C D

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 53 Maps & Info

A B C D

Kitano Museum Kobe YWCA

Kitanoseiryu Shrine Hotel Piena Kobe 1 1 1F Bistrot Cafe KITANO-CHO De Paris Kitanosaka Hosp.

Migration Museum

Fudozaka Tor Road The Rock

Yamamoto-dori 2F Hunterzaka Pearl StreetKobe Sansei

KOBE Sannomiya Kobe Womens Hosp. Mosque Junior Kobe College Grocers

Suwayama Shiei Yamate subway line

Kobe Meister Park Kitanozaka Garden St. Michael’s Sun City International NHK The Harbour 7F Junkudo School Ikuta Police Tavern 7F 2 Station Ikuta jinja 2 Shinko Midnight OS Cinemas Kobe Yamate kansen Mint Kobe High School Halal Food Hotel Monte 5F Hermana Kobe Amalie Tower Tokyu Mickey’s Chicken JR Sannomiya REI Hotel Club Iznt Records 5F George 4F Hotel Tokyu Sannomiya APA Hotel Kobe Hotel Sannomiya Monterey Hands Elementary 4F Tor Road Sannomiya School Oriental SOGO Dept. Dental Varit the b kobe Sannomiya 5F Kinokuniya Port liner Clinic Don Sanchika und. Quijote Ali’s Daiwa Soraku Kitchen Kobe Kokusai Roynet Hotel Park Kaikan Troopcafe 3F San Marui 1F HSBC Village Plaza Vangard Route 2 Center Kobe Kokusai Center Plaza East Shochiku Plaza Isogami West Park Hyogo-ken Prefectural Hall Sannomiya Junkudo Sannomiya Kobe kosokutetsudo Cine Phoenix Hanadokeimae st. Palmore KRAC Hotel Hosp. Sunroute Guild Kowka Holiday Inn Express 4F Sopra 2F 3 Kobe Ikuta HanshinCandeo line Aoyama 3 Junior High Hotel Kobe Boeki center School Minato Kobe City Bank Kobe Hall Flower road Plaza JR Motomachi sta. Kyukyoryuchi Hotel Daimarumae Cine Libre Kobe Motomachi Kobe Doll 7F Museum Kobe Legal Mitsui Partners Daimaru Sumitomo Dept. Bank Hanakuma Higashiyuenchi NANKIN-MACHI Park Park Tokyu Oriental REI Hotel Raja Indian Hotel Restaurant Kobe Luminarie Municipal Museum

Subway Kaigan line

Hanakuma 4 4

JR Tokaido Main Line KIITO Minatomotomachi Cafe Fish!

Nishi-motomachi Hotel Okura Kobe SHINKO-CHO

Hotel La Suite Kobe Maritime Kobe Harborland Museum

Jumbo Ferry Terminal 5 Meriken park Kobe Minato 5 Onsen Ren

Arthur Murray Kobe CULMENI Harborland 3F Kobe Cruise umie umie Luminous Kobe 2 OS Cinema MOSAIC Harborland Kobe Meriken Park Oriental A B C D

54 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com See Kansaifinder.com for more Maps & Info NARA Overview NARA Kizu River Yamada Sta. K YAGYU AREA e Nishi-Kizu Sta. Kizu Sta. YAGYU AREA i Jubei’s cedar n a w a Bus Stop E xp re Ima-gawa ssw ay Stream Takanohara Sta. Ama-no-Ishitate KYOTO Shrine YAGYU-CHO The main house of Yagyu Ofuji’s Well Houtoku-ji Temple Narayama Sta. Mausoleums Heijo Sta. Masakizaka Kendo & Zen Dojyo NARA Ruin of Mausoleum Nara-Okuyama Driveway Enjo-ji Temple Yamato- Saidaiji Sta. Heijō Palace remains Yagyu Kaido Trail Yasaka Shrine Mt. Yoshino Nara Sta. Ruin of The House of Yagyu JR Nara Sta. Iris garden

Touge Chaya CENTRAL NARA Yuhi-kannon Jigoku-dani Sekkutsu-butsu Nakamura 6 Jizos Kubikiri Jizo Housou Jizo Asahi-kannon Kujo Sta. NARA Central NARA A B C D Chisoku-In Tengaimon Shosoin Main Warehouse gate of Todaiji

West Treasures East Treasures Ryu-shou-In HIGASHI Warehouse Warehouse SASABOKO-CHO

Imperial Household Agency 1 NISHI Shosoin Office 1 SASABOKO-CHO Saho River Todaiji Nigatsudo Ruin of Yakemon (Chumon) the gate of Todaiji Todai-ji Karakuni Shrine Todaiji Hokkedo (Sangatsudo) Nara Women’s (Tengu Shrine) University Hotel Tamar OSHIAGE-CHO Tamukeyama Hachimangu

Kagami-Ike Pond YURUGI-CHO Ruin of Saidaimon SUIMON-CHO SHUKUIN-CHO Guesthouse the gate of Todaiji Nara Backpackers Mt. Wakakusa Nara Prefectural Todaiji Museum Museum Isuien Neiraku NOBORIOJI-CHO Museum NARA PARK Nandaimon Gate of Todaiji Int’l Forum Oak Hostel Nara IRAKA Annex Matsunoya NAKASUJI-CHO Nara Prefectural Office Yoshiki-en

2 Kintetsu line Mont-bell Nara Pickle Shop Musashino 2 Nara Sta. Himuro Shrine Yume-Kaze Plaza Tourist Info Center Hall of Kofuku-ji Nara Kasugano “Chu-kon-do” Nara National Shops & Cafes Int’l Forum Museum Hoku’endo Kofuku-ji Mizuya Shrine “Tou-kon-do” Main Hall LBK Craft (2F) Kozen-in Nara National Museum New Wings LAMP BAR Five Storied Pagoda Hitokotonushi Shrine Nan’endo Kikusuiro Tourist Info Center The Fifty-Two Steps Edosan Inn Kasuga-taisha (luggage storage & delivery service) Tsubomiwa Shrine Sarusawa Yoshidaya Shikitei Pond Aoba Chaya Hotel Pagoda GANRININ-CHO Enso Bairin Tei Roku-en Wakamiya Shrine IKENO-CHO Ara Nara Hotel Pond Ukimido Pavilion

Kinryu Shrine

3 Yuga Shrine 3 Kii Shrine Meishou Kyu-Daijoin Teien Former Residnece of Gango-ji Naoya Shiga (novelist) Gokuraku-bo Hotel Wellness Asukaji Kuuki Cake Shop

Zutou Pyramid Yagyu Kaido Trail Kantoku Temple Jurin-in Temple Fukuu-in A B C D

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 55 Maps & Info

A B C D Dinosaur Museum KANSAI Katsuyama Fukui

To Nigata & Hokkaido Kyoto TOKYO FUKUI 1 1 Shiga Hyogo Mie Osaka Gujo Nara

Wakayama

Tsuruga

Mikata-goko Five Lakes Cycling Course Tottori Sand Dunes Maizuru Takahama Obama

KANSAI Overview Tottori Kinosaki GIFU

Mt. Hyonosen Maibara

Gifu Hashima 2 Lake 2 TOTTORI Biwa

Hikone-jo Castle Tamba KYOTO Enryaku-ji Oumihachiman Nagoya Temple Nagoya Sasayama HYOGO Mt. Hiei Kyoto Tokaido Shinkansen Otsu SHIGA Kyoto Koga Fushimi Inari Kinkaku-ji Uji Aioi Himeji Suzuka Circuit Himeji-jo Castle Arima Sanyo Shinkansen Iga Mt. Rokko Shin Osaka 3 Akoh Shin Kobe Tsu 3 Osaka-jo Castle Toudai-ji Temple Kobe Osaka Nishi Akashi Nara Akashi Ohashi Sakai Toba Aquarium

Shoudo Kansai Ise Island Awaji International Airport Ise Grand Shrine Angel Road OSAKA MIE

Awaji NARA Island Yoshino Naruto Ohashi Sumoto Wakayama Shionoha Odaigahara Naruto Naruto Uzushio (whirlpools) KAGAWA 4 Mt. Koya 4

Mt. Shakagatake Tokushima Mt. Obako

WAKAYAMA TOKUSHIMA Kumano Bridges Kumanohongu Shrine Hongu Ferries

Shingu Saba Kaido (Mackerel) Trail Tanabe Mt. Nachi Kumano Kodo Trail Shirahama

5 Nachi Falls 5 Nachikatsuura Ninja Village

Hot Springs Kushimoto Ski Spots

Beaches

A B C D

56 Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

A Cut Above the Rest Frank’s Chop Shop opens in Kyoto

arbershops in Japan tend to cater for an older clientele, offering a simple menu of cuts and shaves, in a no-frills environment, deco- rated with faded posters of 80’s hairstyles. A little intimidating for B first-timers to the say the least, and not exactly inspiring confidence you will get what you ask for, especially for non-Japanese speakers. If you are looking for a more contemporary cut, or a barber with some sharp tapering or fading skills, then your options are severely limited. Until now that

is, with the news that New York-based Frank’s Chop Shop is opening its doors FRANK’S CHOP SHOP

in Kyoto’s Nakagyo ward this December. OPEN: Everyday 10am–10pm (last appointment 9pm) With three branches already in Japan—in Fukuoka, Okinawa, and Kagoshi- CLOSED: New Year holidays ma—Frank’s Chop Shop combines the traditional American barbershop, TEL: 075-708-7992 ADDRESS: 106-2 Yaoya-cho (Rokkaku-dori), complete with vintage 1930’s leather chairs and checkerboard floor tiles, with Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto a classic rock and hip-hop vibe. Offering an array of contemporary gentlemen’s ACCESS: Hankyu Kyoto Line, Kawaramachi Stn, 8-min haircuts, including razor fades, buzz cuts, and styled scissor cuts, Frank’s Chop walk / Keihan Main Line, Sanjo Stn, 10-min walk Shop has a diverse and loyal fan base—from local hipsters to international Check the website for appointments. businessmen. With English-speaking barbers, contemporary styles, and a laid- frankschopshop.jp back vibe, you’ll wonder how you lived without them for so long. PHOTO: FRANK’S CHOP SHOP CHOP FRANK’S PHOTO:

Kansai Scene | WINTER 2018/19 | kansaiscene.com 57 scrop-coffee-roasters.com

As seen on TV Speciality Coffee for Discerning Tastes

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