An Expedition to the Lowlands d r a b b O

y t r a M

: o Special Report by Jon McCracken Photo Essay by Ron Ridout t o h P

e got the call late last winter. Don Sutherland, zoologist for the WOntario Ministry of Natural Resources' Natural Heritage Information Centre (OMNR-NHIC) was assembling a six-person crew of volunteers to spend two weeks this summer on the Hudson Bay lowlands, gathering information for the Breeding Bird Atlas. It was an exceptional opportunity, and Ron Ridout and I (both of Bird Studies Canada) jumped at the chance, as did Marty Obbard (OMNR's provincial bear biologist), Colin Jones (NHIC biologist), and Peter Burke (free-lance biologist and wildlife artist). Our destination was as far north as you can get in Ontario – the Pen Islands region, tucked into the province's extreme northwestern corner on Hudson Bay, right next to the border. The nearest community is Fort Severn, about 100 kilometres to the southeast. American Golden-Plover/Pluvier bronzé A large colony of about 8000 pairs of Snow Geese, and exceptional numbers of migrating Black Scoters, Hudsonian expertly plunked us down on a suitable Godwits, and Red Knots, help make the gravel ridge about 7 kilometres from the region a globally Important Bird Area. coast and about the same distance to the tree Relatively little is known about the region's line. Perfect! summer bird life, however, so our mission was to survey a land area that encompassed Home Sweet Home some 200 square kilometres. No problem. After months of careful planning, the We were greeted by sweeping, open team rendezvoused on 21 June in vistas filled with life and adventure as far as One of the very few Stilt Sandpiper nests ever documented in Ontario. Un des très rares nids de Bécasseau à échasses trouvé en Ontario. Peterborough, ON, before driving 9 hours the eye and imagination could see. Before north to Timmins. The next morning, we nightfall, we had established base camp on the area. Small pockets of stunted spruce loaded about 550 kilograms of gear into an one of the many long, narrow ridges that run trees, seldom standing more than 4 metres OMNR Twin Otter and flew north to through the coastal region. Only a metre or high, were scattered along the edges of the on the coast. From so high, these ancient beach ridges are firm ridges. Somewhat taller trees were there, we flew northwest to Peawanuck for and dry, and carpeted with a thin layer of concentrated along creek margins and back refuelling. Before long, we were over the lichens, moss, and rhododendron. More in the tree line. About 2 kilometres from Pen Islands region. Down below, Hudson expansive wet, sedge-grass meadows, camp, a massive boulder – a relic from the Bay was still almost completely frozen ponds, and small lakes lay between the last Ice Age – towered 4 metres high in the over. The pilot quickly sized things up and ridges. A few narrow creeks wound through otherwise featureless landscape.

4 BIRDWATCH CANADA E When we arrived, snowdrifts lay here powered a laptop computer and battery flannel shirt, thermal t-shirt, jeans, long and there in sheltered areas, and many of the charger. johns (sometimes two pairs), two pairs of R lakes were still partially ice covered. A shallow latrine was dug outside the socks, insulated hiking boots, and a toque. U

Likewise, plant life was very obviously perimeter and fitted with a bucket (and Humour also helps warm the spirit. There T weeks behind the normal seasonal seat!). A three-sided tarp wall provided was a lot of laughter in our camp. A

progression. In fact, it was not until towards privacy and acted as a welcome windbreak. In wide, open spaces like this, your E

the end of our stay that rhododendrons Owing to a fibre-rich diet, there was often a sense of perspective becomes distorted. F finally started to bloom, and shrubs began to morning line up for the facilities. Things were either much farther away leaf out. Summer was unusually late. Good food and lots of it are essential than they appeared, or vice versa. Mirages Our base camp was modest, but for field camp morale. Colin prepared were also common. From camp, small efficient and comfortable. A large, canvas exceptionally delicious and hearty dinners pressure ridges of ice out on Hudson Bay T “wall tent” (suspended from a wooden nightly over the propane camp stove. We ate often looked like huge, snow-swept frame that Marty expertly lashed together well and we ate lots. Drinking water was mountain ranges. R

with rope) served as the kitchen, dining fetched from a nearby shallow pond in At this latitude, the sun set at about O room, storage area, meeting room, and canvas bags, and then hand-pumped 11:30 p.m. and was up again before 4:30 office. We snored our nights away in through a ceramic filter to remove all a.m. An eerie twilight gave way to true P

personal pup tents. potential pathogens. None of us got sick. As darkness for only about an hour each E With the arrival of summer on the for bathing and shaving – forget about it! night. R

Field Work and Play L

From the moment we touched down, A we felt like modern day explorers. Fuelled I

by a constant stream of new discoveries C and situations, every day found us giddy E P S

Study Area

Manitoba Parasitic Jaeger/Labbe parasite Our meeting tent also served as kitchen, dining room, and office. La tente où l’on tenait nos réunions servait également de cuisine, de salle à manger et de bureau. with excitement. Weather, Weather Everywhere At night, we were lulled to sleep by mournful wails of Common Loons, pitiful Ontario On a few balmy days, the thermometer hit sighs of Pacific Loons, the pumping of the plus side of 20o C. However, distant bitterns, cackling parties of Snow temperatures all too often refused to budge Geese, hee-haw braying of Stilt Sandpipers, beyond single digit values, and usually yodelling Tundra Swans and Sandhill dipped below freezing at night. The Hudson Cranes, whoo-ooshing Wilson's Snipe, and Bay coast is a wind-swept region. Sustained ticking Yellow Rails. Rhythmic snoring gales (60-80 kph) routinely tested the sounds, which droned from all six tents, endurance of our tents and our stamina in rounded out the symphony. the field. On more than one occasion, we After enjoying a hearty breakfast each were, quite literally, very nearly blown morning, we donned heavy daypacks, broke away by the experience. On the upside, the into pairs, and scattered in different cold winds kept rumoured onslaughts of directions, aiming to cover as much territory Hudson Bay coast, we were keenly aware of biting insects to a bare minimum. as possible. A typical day's outing entailed the safety concerns posed by marauding Lacking any insulating layers of body hiking 10-20 kilometres, mostly slogging polar bears. To provide warning, a delicate fat, I often found myself fashionably through mucky expanses of shallow marsh, trip-wire was strung around the camp decked out in a Mustang survival suit over either in hip waders or rubber boots. Peter perimeter and hooked up to a loud alarm top a goose down parka, followed by a and Colin camped in the distant tree line one system. A small, gas-powered generator goose down vest, wind breaker, sweater, night to better document species that weren't

FALL 2004, NUMBER 29 5 otherwise present on the tundra. Otherwise, over the camp daily on foraging forays we normally returned to base camp each to the coast. A splendid adult Peregrine day. Falcon sailed low overhead one Safety was key. Personal GPS units afternoon. But the oddest bird of the trip allowed us to pin-point our locations to was the Mourning Dove that Don found within a few metres and efficiently navigate – hundreds of kilometres north of its to and fro. For personal protection against known breeding range. There were bears, one person in each crew lugged a some other oddball things, like a Yellow shotgun loaded with “cracker shells,” Warbler nest that was almost entirely which are fired into the air and explode made out of white ptarmigan feathers, loudly. Everyone also carried a variety of and a robin nest that didn't contain any other noisemakers. In the event of a truly mud. life-threatening encounter, 12-gauge slugs Presumably because they so could be brought into play. Miniature seldom encounter people, we were walkie-talkies, with an effective range of struck by the relative fearlessness of about 5 kilometres, allowed us to maintain many animals. Willow Ptarmigan were contact with one another in the field. A especially “tame.” The contents of one satellite phone provided scheduled daily Hudsonian Godwit's nest couldn't be communications with OMNR staff in Moosonee. By far the most common bird on the open tundra was Savannah Sparrow, which nested abundantly in the wet A glint of sunlight in her eye was all that alerted Jon McCracken to this nesting Hudsonian Godwit. meadows. Horned Lark Un reflet dans l’oeil de cette Barge hudsonienne a permis and Lapland and Smith's à Jon McCracken de la découvrir sur son nid. longspurs were also common in open areas. only a few towards the end of the Among the trees and expedition. shrubs, Common The region is also normally an Redpoll, White-crowned exceptional summering area for up to Sparrow, and American 200 polar bears, one of the highest Tree Sparrow were densities in the world. But because of common. Pine Grosbeak, the late break up of the ice pack, the White-winged Crossbill, bears very agreeably remained far out Ruby-crowned Kinglet, on Hudson Bay, happily hunting seals. Boreal Chickadee, Gray Hudsonian Godwit/Barge hudsonienne At this time of year, black bears with Jay, and a smattering of boreal warblers documented without very carefully lifting any sense would normally remain well back could be found farther back in the tree line. the female off her eggs. in the tree line, to avoid fatal conflicts with On the shorebird side, Dunlin, Least Attesting to the harsh living conditions their much larger, more powerful, and more Sandpiper, Stilt Sandpiper, and Wilson's that birds face in the north, the immense aggressive cousins. But this wasn't a normal Snipe seemed to be everywhere. American Snow Goose colony failed completely this year, and so a large male black bear took Golden-Plover, Whimbrel, and Hudsonian summer. Thousands of geese built nests and advantage of the situation, swaggering in Godwit were scattered here and there. In laid partial clutches, only to abandon them the vicinity of our camp for the duration. addition to lots of Canada Geese, Snow because of the wintry summer. Predators All muscle and fat, “Brutus” was in top- Geese, and Tundra Swans, ponds were and scavengers, which would normally notch condition. Like us, he found the occupied by good numbers of Green- have feasted on a rich harvest of goose eggs smells wafting from our cook tent winged Teal, Northern Pintail, Northern and goslings, were left with slim pickings. irresistible. After somehow tip-toeing over Shoveler, Long-tailed Duck, and Greater our elaborate alarm system one night and Scaup. A small colony of Common Eiders Other Brutes Big lumbering off with one of our precious food nested out on the Pen Islands themselves. chests, he became a routine nuisance and Small Definite highlights of our expedition thereafter. Luckily, we had decades of included Ontario's first documented Marty's bear experience to draw upon, and nestings for Hoary Redpoll, along with Among other things, the Pen Islands there were no more successful break-ins. some of the province's few nests ever region is noted for being the calving Still, we had to be on guard against Brutus recorded for Stilt Sandpiper, Hudsonian grounds for several thousand woodland day and night, which meant that someone Godwit, American Golden-Plover, Red- caribou. When summer temperatures always had to remain in camp to baby-sit the necked Phalarope, and Parasitic Jaeger. We climb, the herd normally treks out to the food. Hungry, bold, and determined, Brutus also added an exceptional number of nest coastal tundra in order to calve and enjoy had to be scared off at close quarters on more records for Dunlin, Least Sandpiper, and the cool winds that keep biting insect than a dozen occasions. Savannah Sparrow. populations down to a tolerable level. Arctic foxes were quite common, Though they probably don't nest in the However, this summer's unusual cold kept feasting on whatever bird nests that Brutus immediate region, several Bald Eagles flew most of the herd well inland, and we saw missed. Red foxes, skunks, voles, muskrats,

6 BIRDWATCH CANADA and snowshoe hares also shared the area. and confident that some of the mysteries of skies by noon. Marty radioed the pilot, who One day, a otter loped along the ridge the region had been unravelled. was standing by in Moosonee, to give him opposite the camp. On another, Don had the The Hudson Bay coast was socked in the thumb's up. We pulled camp in record supreme fortune to peak around the side of by heavy fog when we awoke on 7 July, our time and all too suddenly departed. the kitchen tent to see a wolverine sniffing scheduled date of departure. It looked like Although the prospect of a comfortable at our doorstep. On our flight back to we'd be stranded for a while. But the wind bed, hot shower, and a cold beer was more civilization, several pods of beluga whales shifted to the south, just a little, clearing the than a little appealing, an unmistakable elegantly cruised the bay in tight formation. sense of “home” had also taken root. It was sad to go. Many Thanks

This expedition, which was one of several to Ontario's north country this year, was an exceptional privilege. We owe a special thanks to the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and the Natural Heritage Information Centre for logistics and the loan of equipment. The Canadian Wildlife Service, Bird Studies Canada's James L. Baillie Memorial Fund, and the Ontario Trillium Foundation also provided valuable support. Detailed information on Arctic Foxes enjoyed many meals from ground nests. the Ontario Breeding Bird Atlas is available Les renards arctiques se nourrissent régulièrement d’oeufs qu’ils on the web at www.birdsontario.org. trouvent dans les nids d’oiseaux nichant au sol. Dunlin/Bécasseau variable

Pacific Loons/Plongeons du Pacifique

Smith's Longspurs were a common sight. Les Bruants de Smith étaient nombreux.

Parting Thoughts

Despite the exceptionally late summer, we recorded 96 species of birds (plus 1 hybrid). Following standard Atlas guidelines, breeding was “confirmed” for 30 species. We documented 109 nests of 29 species. Evidence for “probable” breeding was obtained for 27 species; and 32 more were documented as “possible” breeders (most of which undoubtedly nest in the region). Another 8 species were judged not to nest within the immediate study area. Over 250 field hours were logged, and we The Crew (from left to right): back row - Colin Jones, Peter Burke, Jon McCracken, Ron Ridout; front row - Don Sutherland and conducted over 100 point counts in order to Marty Obbard document species abundance across a range L’équipe (de gauche à droite) : derrière : Colin Jones, Peter Burke, Jon McCracken et Ron Ridout; devant : Don Sutherland et of sub-arctic habitats. We were “data rich” Marty Obbard.

FALL 2004, NUMBER 29 7 Expédition à l'intérieur des basses-terres de la baie d'Hudson

La nouvelle nous est parvenue l'hiver les Bruants lapon et de Smith. Durant notre dernier. M. Don Sutherland, zoologiste séjour, nous avons noté un grand nombre de pour le Centre d'information sur le Sizerins flammés, de Bruants à couronne patrimoine naturel (CIPN) du ministère blanche et de Bruants hudsoniens dans les des Richesses naturelles de l'Ontario secteurs boisés ou arbustifs. Quant au (MRNO), était à la recherche de Durbec des sapins, au Bec-croisé bifascié, bénévoles pour former une équipe de six au Roitelet à couronne rubis, à la Mésange à personnes qui aurait comme mission de tête brune, au Mésangeai du Canada et à un récolter des données à l'intérieur des petit nombre de parulines associées à la basses-terres de la baie d'Hudson pour le forêt boréale, ils ont été observés dans les compte de l'Atlas des oiseaux nicheurs milieux forestiers situés à l'intérieur des de l'Ontario. L'offre était trop belle pour terres. Du côté des oiseaux de rivage, nous la laisser filer : Ron Ridout et moi-même, avons remarqué que la Bécassine de Wilson tous deux à l'emploi d'Études d'Oiseaux ainsi que les Bécasseaux variable, Canada, avons sauté sur l'occasion. Ont minuscule et à échasses étaient présents fait de même, Marty Obbard, biologiste presque partout alors que le Pluvier bronzé, au MRNO, Colin Jones, biologiste au le Courlis corlieu et la Barge hudsonienne se CIPN, et Peter Burke, biologiste et retrouvaient ici et là. Nous avons également peintre naturaliste. La région des îles Pen, où se sont effectués les recensements au cours de deux semaines, se situe à l'extrémité nord-ouest de l'Ontario, tout à côté de la Le Lagopède des saules tolérait frontière avec le Manitoba; en fait, il facilement notre présence. Willow Ptarmigan were particularly n'existe aucun autre endroit situé plus au tolerant of our company. nord à l'intérieur la province. Même si la région a été désignée comme une Zone importante pour la conservation des oiseaux au niveau mondial, nous ne possédons encore que très peu de données sur la vie ornithologique qui s'y déroule au cours de l'été. Notre mission était de recenser les espèces qui se Jon et Marty devant un bloc erratique. Jon and Marty pose in front of a large glacial erratic. trouvaient dans un secteur qui couvrait près de 200 kilomètres carrés. Pas de relevé un grand nombre de Bernaches du hybride. Nous avons également problème! Canada, d'Oies des neiges et de Cygnes rapporté 109 nids, lesquels ont été notés Une fois à destination, nous avons siffleurs ainsi qu'un bon nombre de chez 29 espèces différentes. Selon le tout de suite eu l'impression d'être des Sarcelles d'hiver, de Canards pilets, de protocole utilisé pour l'atlas, la explorateurs de l'ère moderne. Chaque Canards souchets, d'Hareldes kakawis et nidification a été confirmée chez 30 jour nous apportait de nouvelles de Fuligules milouinans sur les étangs. espèces. Selon les indices, la découvertes et situations. Nous étions Une petite colonie d'Eider à duvet était nidification a été qualifiée de emplis d'excitation et fébriles de aussi présente sur les îles. «probable» chez 27 autres espèces et de connaître ce qui nous attendait. Le soir, La première mention de nidification «possible» chez 32 autres, la plupart nous nous endormions en nous laissant de Sizerin blanchâtre en Ontario ainsi que nichant sans contredit dans la région. bercer par la plainte mélancolique des la découverte d'un des rares nids de Enfin, 8 espèces ont été considérées Plongeons huards, en imaginant les Bécasseau à échasses, de Barge comme ne nichant pas à l'intérieur de parades aériennes effectuées par le hudsonienne, de Pluvier bronzé, de l'aire d'étude et dans la région Bécasseau à échasses et la Bécassine de Phalarope à bec étroit et de Labbe environnante. Nous avons consacré Wilson qui se déroulaient à côté et en parasite à avoir été rapportés dans la plus de 250 heures à l'étude et effectué devinant les allées et venues discrètes du province figurent parmi les moments des recensements à plus de 100 sites en Râle jaune. forts de notre séjour. Nos recensements vue de recueillir des données Les données amassées sur le terrain ont également permis d'ajouter un concernant l'abondance des espèces à révèlent que le Bruant des prés était de nombre exceptionnel de nids de l'intérieur d'habitats spécifiques à la loin l'espèce la plus commune à Bécasseau variable, de Bécasseau région subarctique. Nous avons l'intérieur de la toundra, ce dernier minuscule et de Bruant des prés aux accumulé un nombre impressionnant de nichant en grand nombre dans les prés données de l'atlas. données et sommes confiants qu'elles humides. Parmi les autres espèces Malgré le fait que l'été ait été très nous aideront à éclaircir certains communes en milieux ouverts, on tardif, nous avons réussi à recenser 96 mystères associés à cette région. retrouvait l'Alouette hausse-col ainsi que espèces d'oiseaux, sans compter un ur de

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