1030 Climb Trees for Rigging

Unit 1030 Title Climb Trees for Rigging Document type Learning resource

In consultation with industry subject matter experts, the BC Forest Safety Council (BCFSC) facilitated the production of this material. Funding was provided by the Government of Canada, the Province of British Columbia, and industry in-kind contributions. Printed copies are considered uncontrolled and may be outdated. Current versions are available from the BCFSC. Refer to https://www.bcforestsafe.org/node/2823 for more information. Feedback is welcome and may be sent to [email protected].

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Table of Contents Unit Introduction ...... 8 Why it’s important for you to learn this unit ...... 8 Are you ready to take this unit? ...... 8 Does this unit apply to you? ...... 8 Section 1030-01: Elevated Support ...... 9 Key Point 1.1: Benefits of Using an Elevated Support ...... 10 Key Point 1.2: Types of Elevated Support ...... 11 Single tree support...... 11 Two blocks on the same side ...... 11 Two blocks opposite ...... 11 Double tree support ...... 12 Leaning tree support ...... 13 Key Point 1.3: Forces on Support Tree ...... 15 Buckle guys ...... 16 Failure zone of rigged trees ...... 17 Additional notes on force on support trees ...... 18 Types of Elevated Support and Forces—Self-Quiz ...... 20 Types of Elevated Support and Forces—Quiz Answers ...... 21 Section 1030-02: Guylines ...... 22 Key Point 2.1: Guyline Requirements for Intermediate Support ...... 23 General backspar guyline information ...... 23 Guyline requirements – skyline systems ...... 23 Single support system ...... 23 Double tree support system ...... 24 Guylines for Intermediate Support—Self-Quiz ...... 26 Guylines for Intermediate Support—Quiz Answers ...... 28 Guyline systems – grapple yarder backspars ...... 29 Grapple backspar setups ...... 29 Backspar 1...... 29 Backspar 2...... 31 Lift tree ...... 32 Tightening sequence ...... 34 Key Point 2.2: Guyline Requirements for Tail Hold ...... 35 Guylines and Backspars—Self-Quiz ...... 36 Guylines and Backspars—Quiz Answers ...... 38 Section 1030-03: Planning ...... 39 Key Point 3.1: Planning Requirements before Climbing a Tree for Rigging ..... 40 Planning the back end ...... 40 Tree selection ...... 41 Suitable anchors ...... 41 lng_1030.docx Page 3 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

Planning Requirements before Climbing a Tree for Rigging—Self-Quiz ...... 43 Planning Requirements before Climbing a Tree for Rigging—Quiz Answers ... 44 Key Point 3.2 Equipment Requirements to Climb a Tree for Rigging ...... 45 Equipment Requirements to Climb a Tree for Rigging—Self-Quiz ...... 53 Equipment Requirements to Climb a Tree for Rigging—Quiz Answers ...... 54 Section 1030-04: Prepare to Climb ...... 55 What you will learn in this section...... 55 Key Point 4.1: Inspect Equipment ...... 56 Climbing inspection checklist ...... 56 Two types of spurs...... 56 Linesman spurs ...... 56 Bark spurs ...... 57 Inspect Equipment—Self-Quiz ...... 58 Inspect Equipment—Quiz Answers ...... 59 Key Point 4.2: Prepare the Chainsaw ...... 60 Components of a chainsaw ...... 60 Chainsaw Components—Self-Quiz ...... 61 Chainsaw Components: Quiz Answers ...... 63 Chainsaw maintenance ...... 64 Chainsaw safety guidelines ...... 64 Tools and materials needed ...... 65 Chainsaw maintenance checklist ...... 67 Chainsaw Maintenance—Self-Quiz ...... 69 Chainsaw Maintenance—Quiz Answers...... 71 Key Point 4.3: Attach Climbing Spurs to Legs ...... 72 Attaching Spurs—Self-Quiz ...... 75 Attaching Spurs—Quiz Answers ...... 76 Section 1030-05: Climb Trees for Rigging ...... 77 What you will learn in this section...... 77 Key Point 5.1: Climb Trees in Accordance with Best Practices ...... 78 Before you climb – preparation and inspections ...... 78 Put on climbing harness ...... 79 Climbing a tree ...... 80 Additional safety precautions for climbing ...... 81 Climbing the tree – from the ground to prepping to attach a rope block ...... 81 Climbing the tree – attaching rope block (running lines) ...... 82 Climbing down the tree ...... 84 Alternate method ...... 85 Climb Trees in Accordance with Best Practices—Self-Quiz ...... 86 Climb Trees in Accordance with Best Practices—Quiz Answers ...... 87 Key Point 5.2: General Safety Guidelines for Working in a Tree ...... 88 lng_1030.docx Page 4 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

Climbing gear inspection checklist ...... 88 General Safety Guidelines for Working in a Tree—Self Quiz ...... 90 General Safety Guidelines for Working in a Tree—Quiz Answers ...... 91 Key Point 5.3: General Chainsaw Guidelines when Working in a Tree ...... 92 General Chainsaw Guidelines when Working in a Tree—Self-Quiz ...... 93 General Chainsaw Guidelines when Working in a Tree—Quiz Answers ...... 94 Section 1030-06: Topping Trees...... 95 What you will learn in this section...... 95 Key Point 6.1: Why it is Necessary to Top a Support Tree ...... 96 Why it is Necessary to Top a Support Tree—Self-Quiz ...... 97 Why it is Necessary to Top a Support Tree—Quiz Answers ...... 98 Key Point 6.2: General Guidelines for Topping Trees ...... 99 General Guidelines for Topping Trees—Self-Quiz ...... 100 General Guidelines for Topping Trees—Quiz Answers...... 101 Key Point 6.3: Top Trees in Accordance with Best Practices ...... 102 Before cutting ...... 102 Cutting...... 102 As the top is falling...... 104 Top Trees in Accordance with Best Practices—Self-Quiz...... 106 Top Trees in Accordance with Best Practices—Quiz Answers ...... 107 Section 1030-07: Tailholds ...... 108 Key Point 7.1: Locate Anchors for Tailhold...... 109 Tailholds...... 109 Ground conditions ...... 110 Trees to use for tailholds ...... 110 Placement of support trees, tailtrees and tailholds ...... 111 Locate Anchors for Tailhold—Self-Quiz ...... 113 Locate Anchors for Tailhold—Quiz Answers ...... 114 Key Point 7.2: Equipment Required for Tailhold ...... 115 Tail and corner blocks...... 115 16” block with 1” line...... 116 Strap sizes for rigging at ground level (inches) ...... 117 Maintain proper line angles on shackles ...... 117 Carrying blocks ...... 118 Equipment Required for Tailhold—Self-Quiz ...... 119 Tailhold Equipment—Quiz Answers ...... 120 Key Point 7.3: Rig a Tailhold...... 121 Strap sizes for rigginghung up trees (inches) ...... 122 Required guyline size for tailtrees ...... 123 Failure zone of rigged trees ...... 125 Rig a Tailhold—Self-Quiz ...... 127 lng_1030.docx Page 5 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

Rig a Tailhold—Quiz Answers ...... 128 Section 1030-08: Intermediate Support Trees ...... 129 Key Point 8.1: Equipment Required for Intermediate Support Trees ...... 130 Pass block ...... 130 Pass strap...... 130 Lightweight pass rope ...... 130 Intermediate support jack ...... 130 Intermediate support line ...... 130 Support line blocks ...... 130 Two guylines...... 130 Sundries ...... 130 Key Point 8.2: Locate Anchors for Intermediate Support Trees ...... 131 Ground conditions...... 131 Trees to use for tailholds ...... 131 Tailholds...... 131 Placement of support trees, tailtrees and tailholds ...... 132 Key Point 8.3: Rig a Single Intermediate Support ...... 134 Single tree support...... 134 Two blocks on the same side ...... 134 Two blocks opposite ...... 134 Rigging a single tree ...... 135 Intermediate Support and Tailholds—Self-Quiz ...... 137 Intermediate Support and Tailholds—Quiz Answers ...... 138 Key Point 8.4: Prepare the Support Line Block Stops and Blocks ...... 139 Tail and corner blocks...... 139 16” block with 1” line...... 139 Strap sizes for rigging at ground level (inches) ...... 140 Support Line Block Stops and Blocks—Self-Quiz ...... 142 Support Line Block Stops and Blocks—Quiz Answers ...... 143 Key Point 8.5: Hang the Support Line Block...... 144 Hanging the support line block ...... 144 Key Point 8.6: Hang Guylines ...... 145 General backspar guyline information ...... 145 Guyline requirements—skyline systems ...... 145 Single support system ...... 145 Double tree support system ...... 145 Plan view ...... 147 Blocks and Guylines—Self-Quiz ...... 148 Blocks and Guylines—Quiz Answers ...... 149 Key Point 8.7: Support Jack and Raising Skyline ...... 150 Rigging the support jack and raising the skyline ...... 150 lng_1030.docx Page 6 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

Jacks—Self-Quiz...... 152 Jacks—Quiz Answers ...... 153

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Unit Introduction What you will learn in this unit By the end of this unit, you will be able to demonstrate your knowledge in and ability of: • Elevated support • Guylines • Planning related to rigging trees • Preparing to climb • Climb trees for rigging • Topping trees • Tail holds • Intermediate support trees Why it’s important for you to learn this unit It is always the responsibility of any person using these materials to inform him/herself about the Occupational Health and Safety Regulations related to the work being conducted. A full list of OHSR related to this unit can be found in the relevant package. Are you ready to take this unit? There are no prerequisites for this unit. Does this unit apply to you? This unit applies to you if you are in: • Any forest harvesting occupation

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Section 1030-01: Elevated Support What you will learn in this section By the end of this section, you will be able to demonstrate your knowledge of the following key points: 1.1 Benefits of using an elevated support 1.2 Types of elevated support 1.3 Forces on support tree

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Key Point 1.1: Benefits of Using an Elevated Support Using a backspar (a tree rigged up at the back end of a work area or timber line to support a skyline or to hold a haulback up in a running skyline configuration with a grapple yarder) presents many benefits, both to the working environment, as well as to the other equipment used. The following are some of the benefits: • Keeps the carriage in the air and off the ground. This creates increased lift deflection which can be useful when terrain limits skyline deflection • Reduces the payload on the skyline • Allows turns to run over a blind ridge • Increases haul distances • Keeps equipment and lines off the ground, which reduces the wear on them and potential damage that can result from being run over by people and machines • Allows the grapple to swing further back when using a grapple yarder • Reduces the chance of choking of cables • Reduces damage to trees and other surrounding environment (by keeping cables off the ground). It also reduces the number of logs that are broken or damaged • Reduces the strain and threat of injury for workers Note: Using elevated supports from trees depends on the staff on site. Hook tenders who are not trained or experienced will not be expected to climb trees. These decisions will be made during your planning meeting.

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Key Point 1.2: Types of Elevated Support The types of elevated support include the following: • Single tree support • Double tree support • Leaning tree support Single tree support This is the most common in British Columbia and simplest to set up. Methods of setting up single tree support Two blocks on the same side Advantages include: • Only need one anchor or tail hold (if not using skyline) • Less equipment needed • Less work to set up • Can jump to back end adjust and move anchors more easily Disadvantages include: • Can’t walk the machine very far (only until the line touches the tree) Two blocks opposite Advantages include: • Two tail holds mean less force on tree • Lines spread to sides which adds support like running guylines or tension spread between two Disadvantages include: • More work to set up • Limited ability to walk • One block is further and one closer to line

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Double tree support

Intermediate support – double tree Advantages include: • Provides more capacity • Allows more space for a turn to pass unobstructed • Load is imposed equally on each tree • Provides lift when there is little or no deflection

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Disadvantages include: • Takes more time to set up and to find two trees that are appropriate • Line angles need to be just right so that loading is imposed equally • Little room for the turn of logs to pass the base of the tree

Overhead view of a double tree intermediate supports. Shows guyline anchors positioned to counteract the yarding force applied to the jack in the direction of the turn Leaning tree support The leaning tree support is not very commonly used because if a single tree does not allow enough clearance for the carriage to pass by the jack, or for a turn of logs to pass by the base of the tree, a leaning tree can be created by putting an undercut in the side of the tree where the lean is intended. Advantages include: • Allows the skyline to hang clear of the base of the tree Disadvantages include: • More complicated to set up lng_1030.docx Page 13 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

• Frequently falls down (especially when lines are removed) • Hard to climb

Intermediate support tree - leaning

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Key Point 1.3: Forces on Support Tree Rigged support trees create an additional hazard for the rigging crew. Workers must get clear of rigged trees before lines are tensioned such as: • During outhaul and inhaul • Any time logs are moved or suspended • Any tightening of the running lines occurs Before rigging a tree, determine the forces exerted on the tree. Set the rigging no higher than needed. More leverage is imposed on the tree at higher levels and will require added support. It is seldom necessary to rig higher than 45 feet. Setting a higher skyline anchor will make a flatter angle to the support tree and reduce stress on the tree.

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CAUTION! The rigging crew must be in the clear before lines are tensioned. A safe distance is at least one a half tree lengths from the base of the tree.

Buckle guys Consider using buckle guys in a rigged tree when rigging produces a buckling force in the tree. Buckling forces are typically caused by extreme rigging height, undersized trees, or extreme side loading. Buckle guys are typically rigged at two-thirds the height of top guylines.

(A) Uphill yarding

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(B) Downhill yarding The relative angles of the skyline and tailhold on each side of the tailtree affects the direction of force. In the diagram above, A shows how in uphill yarding (flatter angle on skyline), the direction of force is toward the yarder. B shows how in downhill yarding (flatter angle on tailhold) the direction of force is away from the yarder. Failure zone of rigged trees A competent person must instruct the crew on the boundaries of the failure zone for rigged trees and the direction of failure under different conditions. The force on a rigged tree is generally toward the yarder during inhaul, but the force can also be back, depending on line angles, and possibly to the side, due to lateral forces. The direction of force will reverse during outhaul according to the position of the carriage and the pull on the jackline. Failure in a rigged tree can also involve the top snapping or the tree buckling below the point of attachment, which can send chunks flying anywhere.

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A skyline by a block in an elevated support tree exerts different loads on the rigging and the tree in proportion to the interior angle of the skyline in the block. A sharper angle on the line running through the block will create more force on the strap holding the block. Use extra caution whenever lateral pull creates a sharp angle on a skyline in elevated rigging. Consider additional guylines and buckle guys, a larger strap, or reduced payload.

CAUTION! Have a qualified person determine the failure zone of rigged trees, and notify the crew of this area and where it is safe to stand. Workers must stay clear of a potential failure zone of a rigged tree or other danger tree. Stay clear of the tree, and also clear of other trees, logs, lines, or other materials that could be struck and set in motion. Use extra caution when working in standing timber, where hang-ups are more common and forces exerted on rigged trees are more unpredictable.

Additional notes on force on support trees • Forces call pull down a support tree at any time, skyline or not • Side blocking forces (from the side) are also a danger to be aware of • Forces depend on the slope, the pull on the turn, as well as the forces on the carriage to pull the logs • Take time to evaluate the situation- set your angles appropriately, and reinforce areas that are weaker (such as the high side), to reduce side force on trees • Run the carriage ahead to lessen the angle and reduce force lng_1030.docx Page 18 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

Now try the quiz on the next page.

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Types of Elevated Support and Forces—Self-Quiz

1. Which of the following is a true statement about a single tree support with two blocks on the same side?  You can walk the machine a long way  You need only a single anchor or tail hold  You need two anchors or tail holds  It takes a lot of skill to set up

2. Which if the following is a true statement about double tree supports?  Loading can be distributed more on a stronger tree  Is very quick to set up  Adds lift when there is a lack of deflection  Line angles can be set up quickly if you have strong trees

3. The higher the rigging in a tree, the more leverage there is.  True  False

4. How high are buckle guys rigged, as compared to top guylines?  One third the height  The same height  One half the height  Two thirds the height

Now check your answers on the next page.

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Types of Elevated Support and Forces—Quiz Answers

1. Which of the following is a true statement about a single tree support with two blocks on the same side? Answer: You need only a single anchor or tail hold

2. Which if the following is a true statement about double tree supports? Answer: Adds lift when there is a lack of deflection

3. The higher the rigging in a tree, the more leverage there is. Answer: True

4. How high are buckle guys rigged, as compared to top guylines? Answer: Two thirds the height

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Section 1030-02: Guylines What you will learn in this section By the end of this section, you will be able to demonstrate your knowledge of the following key points: 2.1 Guyline requirements for intermediate support 2.2 Guyline requirements for tail hold

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Key Point 2.1: Guyline Requirements for Intermediate Support General backspar guyline information • When a backspar is required, guylines must be used if the company dictates it • Proper rigging practices for guylines also apply to backspars. A come-along may be used to tighten a backspar guyline. Use a minimum of three spikes to secure the last wrap • Three line clamps can be used in place of spiking the line to the stump • A guyline secured to a stump must be wrapped at least 2½ times. The top wrap must be secured with three spikes. The number and position of spikes should be adequate to ensure that the guyline will handle the imposed stresses • Guylines must be rigged above all other rigging in the tree (unless they are buckle guys). They must also be of sufficient size and length • Railway spikes should only be used with large lines and large stumps Note: 2.5 cm (1 in.) of slack in the guyline on the stump gives 30 cm (1 ft.) of slack in the belly of the guyline. Guyline requirements – skyline systems Single support system

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Double tree support system 1 • For skylines 1 ⁄8 inches and smaller, no guylines are required. Jack support lines provide support, as shown in the illustrations on the next page 1 • For skylines larger than 1 ⁄8 inches, the supports must be guyed as shown in the illustration below • Double-tree support systems must be rigged with a single- 1 strap jack line ⁄8 inch larger than the dropline

The two intermediate support trees must be rigged so vertical loading is distributed equally on both trees. Deflection in the jackline must be within a specific range corresponding to the distance between the two trees. Minimum: D = 1/4 L Maximum: D = 1/2 L Make the angle of the jackline from the block down to the jack (A) the same as the angle on the guyline down to the anchor (B). This will direct force downward. A greater angle on one side will force the tree to lean to one side and increase the risk of failure.

CAUTION! Guyline anchors for support trees must be located within specific guy zones to offset the load, just as guyline anchors for the yarder tower. Pay close attention to anchor position and line angles.

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Plan view

Double tree support system with additional guylines On a steep profile break, the jack will be forced uphill by the yarding force. Guylines will need to be positioned accordingly to support the backspar. Now try the quiz on the next page.

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Guylines for Intermediate Support—Self-Quiz

5. What may be used to tighten the backspar guy line?  Line clamps  At least two railway spikes  3-5 railway spikes  A come-along

6. How many times must a guy line attached to a stump be wrapped (at a minimum), and how many spikes must be used?  2.5 and 3  2 and 3  1.5 and 4  2.5 and 2

7. When using a single support system with large skylines, what is the minimum amount of back or support guys that must be used on the low side of the tree?  5  4  3  2

8. In a two-tree support system, which size of skyline does not require any guy lines at all?  1¼ inches and smaller

1  1 ⁄8 inches and smaller  All types of skylines

1  Larger than 1 ⁄8 inches

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Now check your answers on the next page.

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Guylines for Intermediate Support—Quiz Answers

1. What may be used to tighten the backspar guy line? Answer: A come-along

2. How many times must a guy line attached to a stump be wrapped (at a minimum), and how many spikes must be used? Answer: 2.5 and 3

3. When using a single support system with large skylines, what is the minimum amount of back or support guys that must be used on the low side of the tree? Answer: 3

4. In a two-tree support system, which size of skyline does not require any guy lines at all? 1 Answer: 1 ⁄8 inches and smaller

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Guyline systems – grapple yarder backspars Backspars used for grapple yarders require a sound tree supported with guylines and good anchors. Backspars are not normally subject to heavy stresses if properly positioned tailholds are used.

CAUTION! When a grapple yarder is operating, workers must not be within a tree length of a backspar that is not guyed or that is guyed but not topped.

Important factors in rigging backspars include the following: • Use only sound, sturdy, and well-rooted trees • Rig trees no higher than necessary to provide the required lift Grapple backspar setups The following are the ways to setup grapple backspars: • Backspar 1 • Backspar 2 • Lift tree Backspar 1 This rigging arrangement has proved to be the most practical and will exert the least stress on the backspar.

Running lines do not rub tree Workers using this method must consider the following: • With high-speed grapple yarders, use at least two guylines • When only two guylines are used to equally support the backspar from the sides, the haulback tailhold block anchor location is most important • Both blocks on the backspar may be hung in the conventional manner with both eyes of the strap in the shackle or gooseneck lng_1030.docx Page 29 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

• Large straps choked with guyline sleeve shackles may be used to hang the blocks • Choker straps must be of sufficient size to support the blocks • The guylines have to be positioned depending on the forces exerted on the tree • To lessen the load on the backspar and to provide equal loading on both sides, ensure that both the road line and back line block tailholds are placed well back • Straps for the backspar blocks must be choked in opposite directions to prevent twisting the tree under heavy loads • To put equal strain on each anchor, both road line and back line anchor stumps must be the same distance from the backspar • Straps must be checked thoroughly before each use • The guylines have to be positioned depending on the forces exerted on the tree

Typical downhill yarding – guylines in front of tree

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Typical uphill yarding – guylines behind tree Backspar 2 This system uses one block at the top and one block at the bottom of the tree. The rigging arrangement places full loading on the guylines. The advantage of this type of backspar is ease of road changes. Workers using this method must consider the following: • The top block is exposed to the greatest stress and must be hung with a suitably sized strap. Use a shackle to hang the block in the strap to prevent the block from twisting and burning the line on the shell of the block • Two guylines must be used and located directly behind the backspar with the spread between the anchors no greater than 60° • The guyline must be rigged from opposite sides with as little bight as possible in the shackle • The guylines must be equal to or of greater strength than the yarding lines • The shackle pins are inserted from the bottom and secured with an appropriately sized Molly Hogan • The bottom block is usually hung in both eyes of the strap and set in a suitable notch. A longer, heavier strap choked with a guyline sleeve shackle may be used to allow the block to lift for clearing rocks and similar obstacles

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Two block and two guylines Lift tree Another method of obtaining lift is to hang a block in the bight of the haulback a short distance up the tree.

CAUTION! When the tree is not topped or guylines are not used, workers must remain at least one tree length from the backspar when logs are yarded.

• The block used to support the haulback must be hung from both eyes of the strap • A choker strap may be used. It should be choked with only a small bight in the strap • Guylines need not be used if the haulback block anchor is located back far enough or high enough to prevent excess forward pull • If the haulback block anchor cannot be located directly behind the backspar, this arrangement must not be used • While logs are yarded from the base of the tree or when guylines are not used, workers must be more than one tree length from the lift tree

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One lift block – standing tree tied back The following diagrams show acceptable guyline and skyline placement patterns.

Acceptable guyline and skyline placement patterns Cable clips are acceptable for securing lines. The line must have at least one full wrap on the stump. Ensure that the required number of clips are properly installed and torqued.

Backspar with cable clips

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Tightening sequence When yarding downhill from a backspar, the two front guylines must be tightened first. When yarding uphill, the two back guylines must be tightened first. Guylines should be tensioned to support the backspar adequately, and positioned so that the inside angle is less than 45 degrees to the horizontal. When this cannot be done, additional guyline support is required.

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Key Point 2.2: Guyline Requirements for Tail Hold Crews must use extra care when selecting tailholds in winter. Remember the following guidelines: • When using stumps, shovel out to the base of the stump to determine its stability • If tailhold stability is questionable and no alternative stumps are available, use tiebacks to prevent the stump from being pulled out • Choose sound, sturdy trees for tailholds when stumps are not available • Tie back all standing trees used as tailholds • Check for danger trees and overhead hazards, heavy clumps of snow on branches, and broken tops or branches • Do not use danger trees for tailholds

CAUTION! If the backspar is above the yarder on an upward slope (with tailhold behind), the tailhold may be at risk to fall backwards when the turn moves up the hill.

Always make sure when rigging up tail holds and backspar trees to examine: • The slope • The line • The haulback • Where the tail hold is • No side binds • If two haulback blocks are used, make sure the angle is the same between the two blocks. This will divided the forces on each tailhold equally • Any standing trees used as a tailhold must be tied back with a twister for safety Now try the quiz on the next page.

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Guylines and Backspars— Self-Quiz

1. Where should the guy lines be when you are yarding on a downhill slope?  Behind the tree  As close to the tree as possible  In front of the tree  As far from the tree as possible

2. What can be done to reduce the load on the backspar and help it to be loaded equally?  Use large straps  Use two guy lines  Choke your straps in the same directions  Place the block tail holds as far away as you can

3. The biggest advantage of using a 2 backspar system is that places full loading on the guy lines.  True  False

4. In what situation will a lift tree system not be used?  When a tree has not been topped  When there isn’t a haulback anchor behind the backspar  When guy lines are not being used  When there is too much excess forward pull

5. When yarding uphill, what guy lines must be tightened first?  Back  Front  Closest to the ground  Farthest from the ground lng_1030.docx Page 36 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

6. What should be used as extra support for tail holds attached to stumps in winter weather?  Sound, sturdy trees  A CAT  Tiebacks  Branches close by

Now check your answers on the next page.

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Guylines and Backspars— Quiz Answers

1. Where should the guy lines be when you are yarding on a downhill slope? Answer: In front of the tree

2. What can be done to reduce the load on the backspar and help it to be loaded equally? Answer: Place the block tail holds as far away as you can

3. The biggest advantage of using a 2 backspar system is that places full loading on the guy lines. Answer: False

4. In what situation will a lift tree system not be used? Answer: When there isn’t a haulback anchor behind the backspar

5. When yarding uphill, what guy lines must be tightened first? Answer: Back

6. What should be used as extra support for tail holds attached to stumps in winter weather? Answer: Tiebacks

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Section 1030-03: Planning What you will learn in this section By the end of this section, you will be able to demonstrate your knowledge of the following key points: 3.1 Planning requirements before climbing a tree for rigging 3.2 Equipment requirements to climb a tree for rigging

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Key Point 3.1: Planning Requirements before Climbing a Tree for Rigging The most important thing to consider when planning to climb a tree is to make sure there is enough distance to allow for anchor points around the tree. This depends on the landscape you are working in, the kind of tree (old growth vs. new growth), stump, etc. Check with the engineer to confirm it is safe and that you know the climbing methods and have the available tools to do so.

CAUTION! Climbing support trees near to road and running guylines across a road is dangerous and should be avoided when possible.

Planning the back end Planning the back end setting is as important to safety and productivity as the quality and location of the haul road. Here are some tips for planning: • Planners must consider the various ways in which the back end can be rigged, examine the feasibility of rigging backspars, and the necessity to stump-rig. Each setting will be different. The goal is to maintain deflection and reduce road change time • If standing trees are to be used as backspars or if a lift tree is required, the falling crew must be notified so that they can adjust their falling plan accordingly. Trees should be selected and marked ahead of time to ensure that they are not felled and that no timber is felled behind them if they are located on the back line • If a standing tree used as a backspar is located in the middle of a setting in which half of the logs will be yarded either way, it may be necessary to top the tree to prevent it from being blown down. The tree must be topped or appropriate work procedures provided if workers are going to be within reach of such a backspar or lift tree when the lines are moving during yarding operations • If the tree isn’t topped and guyed, then workers are prohibited from being within one tree length when the lines are under load. The crew must have the necessary job skills to safely rig the tree. If those skills are not available in the lng_1030.docx Page 40 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

crew, the use of a standing tree as a backspar must not be considered • If a standing tree is to be used as an anchor, that tree must be secured to other trees or other anchors by a twister Tree selection Support trees must be carefully inspected for defects. They should be: • Firmly rooted • Sound • Straight • Green • Of sufficient diameter to withstand the stresses likely to be imposed on them Support trees should be topped. In situations where it is hazardous to top them, they may be used untopped, provided safe written work procedures are made available to workers. Such work procedures must ensure that workers are kept out of the area made hazardous by the untopped tree during the yarding process. Suitable anchors Many factors affect the suitability of a stump to withstand the stresses placed on it during yarding. Each species of tree has a different root system. Factors that affect the root system include: • Soil type • Moisture • Density • Slope change Predicting the holding power of a stump is difficult. Therefore, all stumps used as anchors must be inspected daily. A rule of thumb is to make a stump’s holding power proportional to the square of the diameter. For example, an 80 cm (32 in.) stump is four times stronger than a 40 cm (16 in.) stump. The holding power of a stump: • Increases with soil depth • Increases with soil density • Is greater on an uphill pull • Decreases as soil moisture increases In the event that a single stump is not adequate, multiple stumps must be tied together and used. This could be a two-stump configuration where a bridle block is used, or it could be several stumps tied together.

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Bridle block

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Planning Requirements before Climbing a Tree for Rigging— Self-Quiz

1. Running guy lines across a road is frequently unavoidable, and is common practice.  True  False

2. How often must stumps which are used as anchors be checked for strength?  Twice a day  Once a week  After it rains  Once a day

3. The strength of a stump used as an anchor lessens as soil moisture increases.  True  False

Now check your answers on the next page.

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Planning Requirements before Climbing a Tree for Rigging— Quiz Answers

1. Running guy lines across a road is frequently unavoidable, and is common practice. Answer: False

2. How often must stumps which are used as anchors be checked for strength? Answer: Once a day

3. The strength of a stump used as an anchor lessens as soil moisture increases. Answer: True

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Key Point 3.2 Equipment Requirements to Climb a Tree for Rigging This key point lists climbing equipment used to climb a tree for rigging.

PPE Reminder Two sets of climbing gear need to be on hand at all times, including a belt and spurs. This is to make sure a second set is available if a climber needs to be rescued.

Axe • With hole drilled in end of handle, usually a smaller double- bladed axe or a single-bladed axe used to knock off limbs and pound in the falling wedge when topping; anything used up a tree when rigging a backspar has a hole in it or a Molly attached to it so a rope can be tied to it to pull it up the tree to the rigger or to hang it on the riggers belt

Block • A pulley for line to go through; a metal case, enclosing one or more sheaves, provided with a hook, swivel, or gooseneck for attachment to an object and used to change the wire rope‘s direction Block straps • A short length of wire rope with an eye in each end used to hang a block Chainsaw • A gas-operated power saw

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Saw and rope Climbing equipment • Irons with sharp spurs, strapped to the legs at the ankle and below the knee, and a heavy, leather safety belt with a wire- cored manila rope • Used by riggers to climb trees in order to top and rig them • The buckle sections are reinforced with a nylon backing Climbing harness • A true climbing harness goes around the waist and around the upper part of both thighs of the wearer. Usually has attachment points on the front, some have shoulder straps and are considered a full body harness, they have attachments on the chest, hips and middle of the back, typically used for rescue • A riggers belt is also sometimes called a climbing harness, but it only encircles the waist with attachment points on both hips and no thigh straps Both these climbing harness can be worn together to allow the rigger the mobility and ruggedness of the climbing belt and have the safety of the climbing harness for rescue or rappelling down the tree (less work and quicker).

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Belt Come-a-long • A lever and ratchet device used to tighten guy-lines to the anchor stumps and hold tension while the line clamps are attached Climbing irons • Also known as leg irons or spurs • The part of the climbing rigging that attaches to the climber’s legs with a strap around the ankle and another around the cup on the front of the shin and around the climber’s upper calf • Leg irons have a steel band that connects the cup apparatus to the spur, this is the portion that the climber stands on when wearing the spurs

Spurs

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Belt and spurs Climbing rope • A climbing rope is a hemp rope with a wire core, spliced eye at one end and a taped clean end at the other • Usually 25’ to 30’ long, threaded through the attachment point on one hip of the climbing (riggers) belt until the splice is secure in the ring and then threaded through the ring at the back of the belt and looped back through it again, then lastly threaded through the last ring and around the tree and tied with a “cat’s paw” into its own eye

Cat’s paw First aid kit • A bag or case containing basic medical supplies that are designed to be used on someone who is injured or who suddenly becomes ill Gas and oil for saw • Both saws need fuel and oil to operate so a small container with a week’s worth of fuel and chain oil is part of the equipment needed Guyline • A wire rope from a yarding spar fastened to an anchor • Used to raise or secure the spar in a vertical position lng_1030.docx Page 48 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

Hammer • With large rigging for sky-lines, a hammer is sometimes needed to pound in the pins on the tree blocks and tree jacks and get things to fit together • Usually a 4lb. soft hammer with a shortened handle that has a hole drilled through it to attach a rope or Molly Hogan for pulling up the tree or attaching to the riggers belt • A hammer is also used to hammer in the spikes that hold the tree plates to the backspar tree Haulback blocks • One or two 14” – 16” sheaves Haulback straps • One or two cable with eyes at both ends equal to the size of the haulback approximately 26 to 28 feet long • Used to attach haulback blocks to anchors (stumps) Molly’s extras • Every pin requires a molly to hold it in position so it doesn’t fall out • Four blocks is 8 pins. Murphy’s law says at least one will be dropped or lost so have extras. Pass chain • A small chain which is used to pull or hold a rope PPE • Personal Protection Equipment Power saw • Bigger and more powerful than the topping saw • Used to brush-out anchors or notch stump anchors Pulling rope • Rope used to pull equipment up the backspar tree to the rigger • Runs through the rope block, usually 100’ long • If rigging higher than 45 to 50’ the rope will need to be longer Radio

• For safety reasons, radio communication is a must • UHF if it is a grapple yarder radio to communicate with the operator • VHF usually on the company frequency for check-ins or calling for first aid Rescue equipment bag

• A separate equipment bag depending on the plan and needs • The rescue equipment might be different, but it should all be in one bag and readily available to the people climbing the backspars Rigging hammer

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• Same as a hammer but a rigging hammer has a flat faced head on one side and a long, tapered point on the other similar to a welder’s chipping hammer • Used to insert into pin holes to line up the holes for the pin to be inserted Rope block • Small block with a 3 to 4” sheave attached to rope strap for the pulling rope to run through • Allows a person on the ground to pull blocks and other equipment up the backspar tree to the rigger

Rope block and strap Rope clamps • Also known as wire or cable clamps or line clamps • They are “U” shaped with a saddle that is bolted onto the “U” • Used to hold the tail of a guy-line to the guy-line at the stump anchor of a backspar’s guy-line Rope straps • Rope with eyes at both ends, same size as pulling rope, 10 to 15 feet long, usually ½” to ¾” in diameter • Used to attach rope block to the backspar tree Safety chain • Some company safe work procedures require a safety chain to be wrapped around the backspar below the falling cut and around the base of the top just above the falling cut. This is to prevent slabbing or splitting of the trunk or top when topping is taking place Safety plan for rescue climber • All companies that have climbers and riggers working for them should have an adequate rescue plan in place and practice rescuing a climber Strawline • Light-weight line used to layout or shift working ropes • Can be spooled on the strawline drum or be as separate coils (usually 80 m) for carrying lng_1030.docx Page 50 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

Sack for rigging pieces • A sack for little bits, pieces, and tools • If they are in a sack or a bag they are easier to move and harder to lose Support jack • A jack used to on skyline rig-ups to support the skyline in a tree Three line clamps per guyline • See “rope clamps” • Three are required at any anchor as per WorkSafeBC regulations Tools for saw Repairs and adjustments need to be made to keep the saws running at their best. Some tools that may be needed include: • Bar wrench • File • Plug wrench • Adjustment screwdriver Tree blocks • 12” diameter sheaves Tree plates and spikes • A steel plate with a hook at the bottom, spiked to a standing tree anchor or wooden spar at the point where guylines and straps are hung • Designed to prevent ropes cutting into the wood or moving up or down the tree Tree straps • Length appropriate and molly’s built in the eyes • Cable with an eye on one end and a knob and a choker bell on the other • The knob end is thrown around the backspar tree and attached to the choker bell with the eye end attached to the tree block’s gooseneck • Usually between 12’ and 15’ long depending on diameter of backspar where it is being rigged (roughly 3.5 times the diameter at point of rigging plus a couple of feet) • Some might have a Molly Hogan built into the eye to hold the rope block if the rigger doesn’t use a rope strap

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Topping chainsaw • A small light short barred chain saw for limbing the backspar on the way up and cutting the top of it when starting rigging, attached to the climber’s belt with a rope through the rear- most part of the handle • Use an axe as much as you can, as they are lighter and start easier Twisters • Lengths of straw-line (an extension) used to tie back or twist back an anchor to another anchor for increased strength Twister sticks • Stout, strong, green limbs or saplings 2” to 4” in diameter and 3’ to 5’ long • Inserted into the twister lines between the 2 anchors and twisted until tight then locked off to the side Two climbers • A back-up climber needs to be available in case the one up the tree needs assistance Two guylines • Usually the minimum number required is two for stability of the backspar • Normally 100’ long and ¾” in diameter; hung on the backspar above the straps for the blocks and attached to stumps at the other end for anchors. • Easiest to use with a knob and bell on one end (end that is attached to backspar) and a taped end at the other so it doesn’t unravel • Some are used with eyes and shackles at the backspar end

Wedges or falling wedge • Plastic 6” long, 1/8” at the small end and 1” at the big end and about 3” wide • Inserted into the back cut when falling a tree or a top of a tree so the portion to be felled doesn’t sit back and it goes in the intended direction • Also used to help “push” a tree or a top in a direction away from the natural lean Wrench • One would be used to tighten or loosen the cable clamps • Usually a combination spanner at one end box end at the other Bag for climbing gear • Used to protect climbing gear from wet weather • The leather climbing harness or belt and the leg irons shouldn’t be exposed to the wet weather as it makes them rust and get moldy. However, the hemp rope is easier to use if it’s wet (it stiffens up and is easier to throw around the tree)

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Equipment Requirements to Climb a Tree for Rigging— Self-Quiz

1. True or false It is essential to have two sets of climbing gear available at all times when someone is climbing a tree in case the climber needs to be rescued.

Now check your answers on the next page.

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Equipment Requirements to Climb a Tree for Rigging— Quiz Answers

1. True or false It is essential to have two sets of climbing gear available at all times when someone is climbing a tree in case the climber needs to be rescued. Answer: True

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Section 1030-04: Prepare to Climb What you will learn in this section By the end of this section, you will be able to demonstrate your knowledge of and ability to perform the following key points: 4.1 Inspect equipment 4.2 Prepare the chainsaw 4.3 Attach climbing spurs to legs

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Key Point 4.1: Inspect Equipment All climbing equipment must be inspected regularly, and defective equipment must be removed from service. Where there is a hazard of the climbing rope being severed, the climbing rope must be wire rope or a heavy rope with a wire core construction.

PPE Reminder Workers using climbing equipment must be properly trained in the use of the equipment. When a worker is up a tree, another complete set of climbing equipment and another trained worker must be on-site and capable of rescue.

CAUTION! When climbing trees for rigging, it is extremely important to inspect your equipment properly before you start climbing. This could prevent serious injury to you and others around you.

Climbing inspection checklist Use this checklist before climbing a tree:  Check that belts are in functional condition.  Check that there is a buckle.  Check that rope isn’t missing any strands and isn’t frayed in any way.  Check that rope has a wire core.  Check that spurs are sharp, and are the correct type. Two types of spurs The two types are: a linesman spur and a bark spur. Linesman spurs • Used by telephone companies to climb poles • About 1” to 1.5” long

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CAUTION! Do not use a linesman spur for climbing trees.

Linesman spur Bark spurs • Used for climbing trees • About 3” longer or more • Used in yarding operations

Bark spur Now try the quiz on the next page.

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Inspect Equipment—Self-Quiz

1. What kind of rope is strongest for climbing?  Heavy rope  Rope that has been inspected  Wire core rope  Lighter, more flexible rope

2. Why are bark spurs much better for climbing trees than linesman spurs?  They are longer  They are more durable  They are sharper  They are shorter

Now check your answers on the next page.

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Inspect Equipment—Quiz Answers

1. What kind of rope is strongest for climbing? Answer: Wire core rope

2. Why are bark spurs much better for climbing trees than linesman spurs? Answer: They are longer

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Key Point 4.2: Prepare the Chainsaw You need to be able to demonstrate your knowledge and ability to prepare the chainsaw. Note: Cold start, refueling, mix ratios for the fuel, warm-up periods and any adjustments are all “as per manufacturers specifications”, as they differ from site to site and model to model. Components of a chainsaw You need to be able to demonstrate your knowledge of the components of a chainsaw in accordance with the manufacturer’s specifications. Review the components in the photos below and ensure you can name each one. These components are common to all chainsaws. The location of some components may be different on the saws you will be using.

4. Chain brake 5. Handlebar

6. Sparkplug 7. Air filter

2. Guide bar 1. Bar tip 3. Muffler 8. Throttle lock

12. Oil tank & cap 9. Fuel tank & 11. Recoil spring 10. Pull Cord cap

13. Decompression switch

18. Dogs 15. Choke 14. On/off switch

17. Bar nut

16. Chain sight lines 19. Chain catcher

When you think you can name all the components without help from these photos, try the quiz on the next page.

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Chainsaw Components—Self- Quiz Write the number of the component next to the component name in the list on the next page.

4 5

6 7 2 1

3 8

12 9 11 10

18 15 14

16 19

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Component Number Chain brake Pull cord Spark plug Bar tip On/Off switch Recoil spring Chain catcher Muffler Bar nut Dogs Guide bar Handle bar Chain sight lines Choke Air filter Fuel tank and cap Decompression switch Oil tank and cap Throttle lock

Now check your answers on the next page.

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Chainsaw Components: Quiz Answers

Component Number Chain brake 4 Pull cord 10 Spark plug 6 Bar tip 1 On/Off switch 14 Recoil spring 11 Chain catcher 19 Muffler 3 Bar nut 17 Dogs 18 Guide bar 2 Handle bar 5 Chain sight lines 16 Choke 15 Air filter 7 Fuel tank and cap 9 Decompression switch 13 Oil tank and cap 12 Throttle lock 8

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Chainsaw maintenance Remember these important chainsaw maintenance rules: • Chainsaws must be serviced and maintained by qualified workers • Broken or missing clutch or muffler guards must be replaced • Chain brakes are required for all chainsaws • Factory-installed chain brakes must not be removed • Oil and fuel mixtures must meet manufacturer’s specifications • The saw chain should be properly tensioned and maintained

Chainsaw safety guidelines • Remember that kickbacks happen in a fraction of a second. Faster than human reaction • Both hands must be on the saw at all times • Stand to one side and not directly behind the chain • Watch for side bind Know where the bar tip is at all times. Avoid touching the top half of the tip to anything to prevent a kickback • Always use a stable stance with the feet wide apart, except when it may not be possible such as when in a tree lng_1030.docx Page 64 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

• Always buck from the uphill side, except when not at all possible such as when in a tree Tools and materials needed This section covers with the tools and materials you need to keep your chainsaw in good operating condition.

CAUTION! Always follow manufacturer’s instructions for the proper maintenance and handling of your particular make and model of chainsaw.

Important tools and materials you need to keep handy for maintenance of your chainsaw include the following: • Round chain file with handle to match your chain • Flat raker file with handle • Flat file for guide bar maintenance with handle • Small screwdriver for carburetor adjustments • Screw wrenches (i.e., allen wrenches) • T-wrench to fit spark plug and guide bar nut (the other end is usually a screwdriver) • Depth gauge for raker adjustments • Tool bag on a belt to carry the above tools • Chainsaw fuel mixture in a CSA- or CUL-approved container with proper WHMIS labeling • Chain oil appropriate for the season • Funnel with strainer for refueling • Grease gun compatible with your guide bar • Chain bar cover • Manufacturer’s instruction manual for the make and model of chainsaw You should also keep spare parts readily available. These include the following items: • Spare chains • Air filter • Starter rope • Oiler worm gear • Clutch segments • Sprockets • Brake handles • Spark plugs

A professional is well equipped with spare parts, even a spare chainsaw!

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PPE Reminder If doing maintenance in a shop where the risk of eye injury is increased due to use of air and power tools, compressed air or drilling, make sure to wear appropriate eyewear such as safety glasses or goggles.

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Chainsaw maintenance checklist Here is a useful list of daily, weekly, and monthly steps to maintain your chainsaw. Daily  Clean dirt, oil, and wood chip accumulations from the engine and starter housing  Inspect air cleaner for damage, debris, or icing. Clean or replace, as required  Check throttle lock-out, on/off switch and choke control for easy operation  Check all screws, nuts, and mountings. Tighten, as required  Inspect starter cord for wear and tear. Replace, if required  Run engine and adjust carburetor as required for smooth operation  Engage chain brake. Note ease of brake handle movement. Clean brake band  Clean out guide bar groove. Inspect rails for wear, and file any burrs on rails. Check for adequate oiler operation. Check guide bar alignment and replace, if required. Rotate bar before re-installing  Clean out sprocket tip grease fitting and grease sprocket. Check sprocket for easy rotation. If not rotating easily, replace tip  Inspect chain for kinks, twists cracks, and wear. Replace, if necessary  Sharpen cutter links and adjust rakers

Weekly  Clean debris from cooling fins on engine cylinder and cylinder head  Clean carburetor body and air box  Inspect muffler and spark arrestor screen. Clean or replace, as required  Inspect spark plug for condition and gap. Clean and re-set gap, or replace if needed  Clean starter recoil assembly and inspect for cracks. Inspect starter cord for wear and check knots at both ends  Inspect guide bar for damage and wear. File any burrs. Replace, if damaged  Grease needle bearings in clutch drum. Replace bearings if side movement is excessive lng_1030.docx Page 67 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

Monthly  Replace fuel filter  Inspect electrical wires for integrity  Inspect clutch and drive sprocket mechanism for wear. Replace springs, if broken  Clean drum and clutch shoe surfaces  Flush fuel and oil tanks  Inspect chain brake band for wear and replace, if necessary

Now try the quiz on the next page.

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Chainsaw Maintenance—Self- Quiz

1. Chain brakes must not be removed under any circumstances.  True  False

2. Where must a worker position himself in order to be safe around a chainsaw?  Directly behind the saw  With the saw below the waist  With the saw above the waist  To the side of the saw

3. In your bag of tools that you will have with you when climbing a tree, what is the small screwdriver for?

 Installing the chain bar cover  Adjusting the carburetor  To fix the guide bar  Adjusting the raker

4. What inspections or maintenance of your chainsaw need to be done monthly?  Grease needle bearings  Inspect electrical wires  Grease sprocket  Inspect spark plug

Now check your answers on the next page.

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Chainsaw Maintenance—Quiz Answers

1. Chain brakes must not be removed under any circumstances. Answer: True

2. Where must a worker position himself in order to be safe around a chainsaw? Answer: To the side of the saw

3. In your bag of tools that you will have with you when climbing a tree, what is the small screwdriver for? Answer: Adjusting the carburetor

4. What inspections or maintenance of your chainsaw need to be done monthly? Answer: Inspect electrical wires

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Key Point 4.3: Attach Climbing Spurs to Legs To attach climbing spurs to legs correctly, complete the following steps: Note: You may need to remove both instep corks out of your boots before attaching spurs.

5. Put your boots on. 6. Position the spurs on the inner part of your foot, not the outer. 7. Position the cups to the front of your leg, not the back. 8. Adjust the cups so that they are just below the knee. 9. Tighten the straps around the first ankle (tight). 10. Tighten the first cup strap on the same leg as 5 (not tight). 11. Repeat 5 and 6 for the other leg. 12. Tighten cup straps until they are comfortable, but not too tight. The following pictures show correct and incorrect methods for attaching climbing spurs.

The cup is set correctly on the front of the leg, but is too short. It needs to be positioned just below the knee, and is too low here. The spur itself is correctly positioned here

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There is a caulk missing here. Both instep caulks will need to be removed before climbing

The position of the cups is correct for both. The spur strap on the left however is too low and needs to be more at the ankle. The one at right is correct

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The cup here is on the back of the leg. It should be on the front

This is correct. Now try the quiz on the next page.

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Attaching Spurs—Self-Quiz

1. The spurs need to be set up on the outer part of your foot.  True  False

2. Instep corks must be removed before attaching spurs.  True  False

3. What is not set up correctly in the following photo?

 The spur is not in the correct place  The cup should be turned to the left more  The cup is too low  The cup strap is not tight enough

Now check your answers on the next page.

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Attaching Spurs—Quiz Answers

1. The spurs need to be set up on the outer part of your foot. Answer: False

2. Instep corks must be removed before attaching spurs. Answer: False

3. What is not set up correctly in the following photo? Answer: The cup is too low

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Section 1030-05: Climb Trees for Rigging What you will learn in this section By the end of this section, you will be able to demonstrate your knowledge and ability for the following key points: 5.1 Climb trees in accordance with best practices 5.2 General safety guidelines for working in a tree 5.3 General chainsaw guidelines when working a tree

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Key Point 5.1: Climb Trees in Accordance with Best Practices

You can’t just read a paper and watch a video to learn how to climb and rig a tree. A future climber or rigger should be a ground man for a rigger for a few tries and get used to climbing first. The biggest obstacle is the fear of falling. Once you realize that you will only slip so far down the tree and that you can’t fall to the ground, then it becomes easier and your confidence will build. This whole job is simply that…confidence in your ability to do it.

CAUTION! If you don’t feel comfortable or have not been trained, do not put on climbing gear and attempt to rig or top a tree. This could be extremely dangerous to not only for you, but to everyone around you.

Before you climb – preparation and inspections Remember the following preparation and inspection guidelines before climbing a tree. Have a clear head and be “in the game.” Being angry or frustrated up the tree could bring a bad outcome. lng_1030.docx Page 78 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

Make sure you have ALL your equipment and that they’re all in good shape. Note: For a list of climbing equipment required, refer to 1030-03. Pick a sound tree, one with no defects or hazards in the branches. Pick your tailholds and walk to them. Check sightlines around the tree you’ve picked and ask yourself the following questions: • Will your plan work? • How far can the machine move? • Are there any side binds that need to be cleared? Ensure your rough estimates for yarding angles and guyline placement will work. Make sure to have a back-up plan. Move all your gear: • Tree rigging to the base of the tree • Tailhold rigging to the tailholds • Safety gear to a clear zone • Guyline rigging close to where the guyline anchors will be Open up the climbing rigging bag and inspect the climbing rigging and make sure of the following: • Belts and buckles in place and working • Climbing rope has no scars or strands missing • Climbing rope threaded through the belt how you want it. It can be left or right handed • Loops for hanging rigging in good shape • Leg irons adjusted to correct length • Spurs sharp and not damaged. Remove caulks from instep of both boots if needed Put on climbing harness A climbing harness provides both pelvic and upper body support. It may be a one-piece, full-body harness, or any two-piece design that meets industry standards. Climbing and life-support lines must be easily identifiable. All lines and webbing used for life support must have a minimum breaking strength of 5,400 pounds and be used only for climbing. When a cutting tool is used in a tree, the climbing rope (lanyard) must be a high-quality steel safety chain of 3/16-inch size or larger, or a wire-core rope. A very important tip to remember is to stretch, limber up and to hydrate. To put on climbing harness, complete the following steps:

1. Step into leg irons. Make sure the spurs are to the inside. 2. Do up the buckle around ankle first and make sure it’s tight, with cups in the front. 3. Do up the cup strap. Make sure it’s snug and not tight. 4. Repeat for the other leg. Note: See 1030-04 for more on spurs. lng_1030.docx Page 79 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

5. Put on rescue harness (if required): • Put on climbing belt and adjust low on hips. • Do up both buckles and ensure eye on climbing rope is on correct side for you.

6. Put on PPE, gloves and hard hat with hearing protection and visor. 7. Tie the pull rope to belt. An optional step is to attach a snatch block and rope strap on your belt. It saves a step or two up the tree. Some people also attach the axe or the saw now to the belt as well with a short rope about 5’ long. Climbing a tree Tree climbers generally use a three-point climbing system. That means three points of contact must be firmly in place on a secure surface before moving to another point. Along with hands and feet, other points on the body, such as a hooked knee, can be considered a point of contact if it can support the full body weight. In turn, the places of support must be secure. Avoid unsound branches or stubs as a contact point. A lanyard around the tree secured to the safety harness or climbing belt on both ends counts as two points of contact.

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CAUTION! While climbing operations are active, coworkers on the ground must stay clear of potential falling objects. If coworkers must work directly below a climber, the climber must stop any activity where objects could be dropped or dislodged. The climber must give warning whenever any material is in danger of dropping or is being dropped deliberately. Unsecured equipment, rigging, or material must not be left in the tree.

Additional safety precautions for climbing Yarding activity must cease within reach of a tree or guylines of a tree where a climber is working. Machinery may operate in reach of the climber to hoist rigging into the tree, in which case, a spotter is mandatory. Use extra caution. • The machine operator and the spotter must give the task their undivided attention • Nearby noisy equipment, such as power saws, tractors, or logging machines must be shut down if the noise interferes with signal communications with the climber • Lines attached to a tree in which a climber is working must not be moved except on a signal from the climber Climbing the tree – from the ground to prepping to attach a rope block To climb a tree to attach a rope block, complete the following steps:

1. Throw the rope around the tree while standing on the uphill side. 2. Tie off to the eye with a cat’s paw knot with the tail hanging straight down. 3. Adjust the rope to shoulder height so you can put your palm flat on the tree and keep your body straight and rope is tight against belt. Note: Right-handed climbers are known to lead with their right. Left- handed climbers are the opposite. Pull slack around the tree and twist body to the right holding slack, flick and throw slack around the tree like your trying to flick the garden hose over a lawn chair. Hold slack as it comes around the tree with left hand. Rope should be up above shoulder height.

4. Reach forward and grab rope just beside tree. 5. Pull up with arms, with both hands on the rope as you step into tree with right (or left) foot. Keep feet shoulder width apart, weight on spurs. Note: Don’t twist toes or heel into tree until you want to release. Step into tree to drive in spurs, don’t jam them in.

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6. Continue pulling up with arms as you step into tree with left foot placing it above level of right foot (or opposite for those who go left first). 7. Continue stepping up until rope is level with waist line. 8. Pull slack around tree to right (or left) side as you lean in slightly. 9. Throw slack around as before with flick and throw method. 10. Take two or three more steps. Note: By now you will need to adjust slack in climbing rope. Because tree is a long cone about every 6 to 10 feet of climbing the rope will become too long. Tightening the rope as you climb ensures that you won’t slide to the bottom of tree if you slip. It also allows you to rest your arms by leaning back into the rope.

11. Adjust (pick up) slack in climbing rope by pulling slack towards the cat’s paw knot from around the tree. Twist your body into the slack and ensure your feet are spiked in securely. Note: You can hold the rope from around the tree with your right hand (again left if left-handed, half on the rope the other half on the leading edge of the eye).

12. Push the slack though the knot with the left or right hand. Lean back into the knot to tighten. 13. Continue climbing and tightening rope until you reach an obstruction or branch. Note: If you come to a branch, you can cut the branches with a small power saw or an axe. You can have ground person attach a small power saw or an axe to the pull rope and pull it up to yourself.

14. Continue up the tree until you reach the spot where the blocks will hang. Make a mental note of spot. 15. Keep going up the tree a few more steps. • This is where the tree plates would be attached to the tree if you’re using them.

16. Notch and flatten two opposite sides of the tree with power saw. Note: Tree plates should be used on skyline trees to help spread the load and not pinch the top of the tree off.

17. Go to a point above all the guyline placement points and cut top off the tree if required. Note: There will be a separate procedure written for that.

18. Tighten into the tree to be able to work. Place one foot slightly higher than the other. Climbing the tree – attaching rope block (running lines) To climb a tree to attach a rope block for running lines, complete the following steps: lng_1030.docx Page 82 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

1. Attach rope block and snatch block to tree as close to top as possible or above guyline placement points if tree is not going to be topped. 2. Thread bight of pulling line through snatch block. • Keep holding on to end from belt. • Undo end from belt and pull down bringing rope up from the ground through the snatch block. • Continue until both ends of the rope are on the ground. • Keep all rigging and ropes outside of the climbing rope. If using tree plates • Have ground person attach first tree plate to one end of pull rope with a bowline knot leaving a 2‘ tail. • Have ground person attach hammer and spikes in a bag to the tail of the bowline knot. • Have ground person pull up tree plate to you. • Place in position and hold the plate while you undo the knot. • Remove spikes and hammer. • Hammer spikes through tree plate to the tree. • Repeat for second tree plate. • Continue to hanging guylines. If not using tree plates • Have ground person attach first guyline to rope with a prussic knot with appropriate tail on guyline. Note: The appropriate length of tail is the circumference of the tree at guyline anchor point plus a foot or two. Depending on guy-line style, if it has a choker bell and knob make sure choker bell is between prussic knot and knob at end of line, if it has an eye ensure shackle accompanies guy-line up the tree where you can retrieve it.

3. Ground person pulls guyline up to you and stops and holds it where you need it. 4. Guylines are attached in opposite directions to prevent top of back spar from twisting off. 5. One guyline gets thrown right handed (right around tree to left) the next left handed (left around tree to right). 6. Throw guyline around tree, catch the end all while ground person is holding weight of guyline and you are keeping your hips pushed back against the climbing rope. 7. Attach guyline to tree, ensuring it is sitting in spot on tree plate (if used) or on tree. 8. Have ground person slowly let go of the weight and slack guyline into tree. Note: While you are undoing, and holding rope, the ground person can pull guyline away from tree in intended general direction of where it will be placed. Make sure there is enough room to hang other guy-line and haulback blocks.

9. Repeat for second and subsequent guylines if necessary.

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10. Eensure all guy-lines that are on opposite sides of the tree are wrapped in opposite directions. Don’t over wrap guy-lines on the tree. Keep them separated around the tree. 11. Climb down a few steps (to make room to throw tree straps around tree) under guylines on road line block side of tree. 12. Send pulling rope down to ground person. Get the ground person to attach the tree strap eye to gooseneck of the first block. Have the ground person attach the pulling rope to the molly in the eye of the tree strap with a bowline knot. 13. Have the ground person to pull on rope to lift block and strap up to you. Assist with pulling if you are able. Have the ground person stop pulling and hold at appropriate height. 14. Throw knob end around tree. Catch and hook into choker bell (as high above your rope as you can). 15. Have ground person slowly let the weight of block and strap come into tree. 16. Ensure block and strap are hanging correctly. 17. Climb up as far as you can under first block and go to haulback side of tree. 18. Instruct ground person to attach second block and strap. Have the ground person pull it up to you and hold it at the appropriate height. 19. Throw the strap around tree in opposite direction of first strap. Catch the knob and attach it to the choker bell. 20. Have the ground person release weight of block and strap into tree, and ensure it is hanging properly. Adjust if necessary. 21. Climb down to level of blocks and pull pulling rope clear of snatch block, holding onto the rope. Don’t let it go. 22. Thread one end of pulling rope through haulback side block and send it to the ground. 23. Have ground person attach rope to free end of straw-line and pull slowly through the haulback block in the tree. Guide rope and strawline through block. 24. When the eye of the strawline goes through the block, hold strawline at eye, undo rope, and attach to belt. Continue hand-feeding strawline to the ground. 25. Have ground person to tie off both ends of straw-line that are through the block to prevent them from running freely back through block. 26. Repeat for road-line side block. 27. Ensure everything is straight with no wraps in lines. Double-check placement of guyline anchors and adjust if necessary. Climbing down the tree To climb down a tree, complete the following steps:

1. Start by climbing down adding slack to climbing rope as you descend. 2. Holding rope between eye and tree with right hand and feeding about a foot of slack through knot with left hand. 3. Pull tight and continue descending, adjusting slack as needed. 4. At the bottom of the tree, step onto the ground. 5. Undo rope around the tree. lng_1030.docx Page 84 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

6. Undo climbing belt and undo spurs. Roll them up into a package and pack into the clear towards next tree to climb. 7. Notch, hang and tighten guylines with come-a-long and small pass chain. Attach three wire clamps per guyline with saddle of clamp on the live side of the line. 8. Hang back end blocks and twisters if needed. 9. String all strawline and attach the ends together. Use black tape around knots and hooks to ensure they don’t catch anything going through tree blocks. 10. Make road change onto tree and ensure haulback eye passes safely through all the tree blocks. Alternate method You can climb up the tree with the snatch block and pulling rope. You then get the first two guylines and the first tree strap pulled up to you. You can do this by running the pulling rope over your climbing rope to run the blocks up you. Hang the snatch block in the molly built into the eye of the first tree strap. The ground person ties the pulling rope to the side of the shell on the block. The gooseneck is left open and the climber guides the open gooseneck into the eye of the strap. You then have to lift a portion of the blocks weight to close the gooseneck and do up the pin. This method can cause the straps to loosen and fall on you as there might not be sufficient weight on them to keep them attached while you wrestle the gooseneck into the eye and close it. Now try the quiz on the next page.

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Climb Trees in Accordance with Best Practices—Self-Quiz

1. Where should the climbing belt sit on your body?  At your waist line  Low on your hips  High on your hips  At your belly button height

2. Climbers typically have two points of contact with a secure surface on the tree before moving to another point.  True  False

3. Who is the person who directs all activity and work around the tree when there is a climber in it?

 The spotter  The machine operator  The site engineer  The climber

4. Why are guy lines attached in opposite directions around the tree?  It is easier to tension them up  It helps them to be overlapping around the tree  It stops the top of the backspar from twisting off  It makes it easier to attach them to the tree plate

Now check your answers on the next page.

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Climb Trees in Accordance with Best Practices—Quiz Answers

1. Where should the climbing belt sit on your body? Answer: Low on your hips

2. Climbers typically have two points of contact with a secure surface on the tree before moving to another point. Answer: False

3. Who is the person who directs all activity and work around the tree when there is a climber in it? Answer: The climber

4. Why are guy lines attached in opposite directions around the tree? Answer: It stops the top of the backspar from twisting off

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Key Point 5.2: General Safety Guidelines for Working in a Tree Remember these safety tips before and when climbing a tree: • Have a clear head and be “in the game.” Being angry or frustrated up the tree could bring a bad outcome • Make sure you have all your equipment and make sure they are all in good shape • Inspect your equipment before every time you climb • Pick a sound tree. Makes sure it has no defects or hazards in the branches • Check sightlines around the tree you picked. Ask yourself, will your plan work? How far can the machine move? Are there any side binds that need to be cleared? • Ensure your rough estimates for yarding angles and guyline placement will work. Have back-up plan • Make sure the eye of your rope is on your right side if you’re right handed • Combine use of harness and belt. It could prevent you from flipping • Never grab at the tree to stabilize yourself. Push away from the tree with your fist or the back of your hand, not with your palm • If you are in bushy trees, use two ropes to be safe • NEVER free-hand in a conifer • As you lean out, keep the rope between your shoulders and your waist • When you lean in, reduce slack. Too much slack is dangerous • Keep everything above your waist. If a line gets below your waist, stay still • If you are the climber, you should be the one controlling the line, not someone down below Climbing gear inspection checklist Use the following checklist to inspect your climbing gear.  Belts and buckles in place and working  Climbing rope has no scars or strands missing  Climbing rope threaded through the belt how you want it left- handed or right-handed)

 Loops for hanging rigging in good shape lng_1030.docx Page 88 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

 Leg irons adjusted to correct length  Spurs sharp and not damaged  Remove caulks from instep of both boots if needed Now try the quiz on the next page.

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General Safety Guidelines for Working in a Tree—Self Quiz

1. True or false Picking a sound tree means sure it has no defects or hazards in the branches.  True  False

2. True or false If you are the climber, you should be the one controlling the line, not someone down below.  True  False

Now check your answers on the next page.

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General Safety Guidelines for Working in a Tree—Quiz Answers

1. True or false Picking a sound tree means sure it has no defects or hazards in the branches. Answer: True

2. True or false If you are the climber, you should be the one controlling the line, not someone down below. Answer: True

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Key Point 5.3: General Chainsaw Guidelines when Working in a Tree Manual tree fallers know that most incidents happen within 10 feet of the stump when a tree is being felled. That is why they use escape trails and move quickly away from the tree when it starts falling. When topping a tree, the climber doesn’t have that option so instead the climber must move to the back-side of the falling and duck down to use the remaining tree as cover. Now try the quiz on the next page.

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General Chainsaw Guidelines when Working in a Tree— Self-Quiz

1. True of false Manual tree fallers know that most incidents happen within 10 feet of the stump when a tree is being felled.

 True  False

2. True or false When topping a tree, the climber doesn’t have that option, so instead, the climber must move to the back-side of the falling and duck down to use the remaining tree as cover.

 True  False

Now check your answers on the next page.

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General Chainsaw Guidelines when Working in a Tree— Quiz Answers

1. True of false Manual tree fallers know that most incidents happen within 10 feet of the stump when a tree is being felled. Answers: True

2. True or false When topping a tree, the climber doesn’t have that option, so instead, the climber must move to the back-side of the falling and duck down to use the remaining tree as cover. Answers: True

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Section 1030-06: Topping Trees What you will learn in this section By the end of this section, you will be able to demonstrate your knowledge and ability in the following key points: 6.1 Why it is necessary to top a support tree 6.2 General guidelines for topping trees 6.3 Top trees in accordance with best practices

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Key Point 6.1: Why it is Necessary to Top a Support Tree When a tree has straps, blocks and steel lines attached to it, it tends to move around a lot from the weight. Tall, thin trees can also move at the top a lot as a result of wind. Topping a tree helps to lessen the force on the tree. Although a shorter tree will result in a smaller danger zone, the forces exerted on it while yarding are still lessened by topping it. By reducing the height of the backspar, the other trees around can provide a type of protection for it against the wind.

Now try the quiz on the next page.

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Why it is Necessary to Top a Support Tree—Self-Quiz

1. Topping a tree makes the tree shorter, which creates a smaller area where incidents can occur.  True  False

2. By reducing the height of the backspar, the other trees around can provide a type of protection for it against the ______.  Wind  Snow  Rain  Sleet

Now check your answers on the next page.

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Why it is Necessary to Top a Support Tree—Quiz Answers

1. Topping a tree makes the tree shorter, which creates a smaller area where incidents can occur. Answer: True

2. By reducing the height of the backspar, the other trees around can provide a type of protection for it against the ______. Answer: Wind

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Key Point 6.2: General Guidelines for Topping Trees General guidelines for topping trees include the following: • Have a plan and follow it • Keep calm. Don’t get mad if things don’t go as planned. Re- adjust the plan • Plan your moves. Don’t waste time and energy by struggling with a task, and trying to out-think it • Know your safe zones and how to get to them fast • Take a break if necessary to conserve energy and regroup your thoughts and plan Anyone attempting to top a tree needs to have a good understanding of the hazards of falling trees beforehand. Good risk analysis and a cost vs. benefit analysis as well are needed to determine if it is even necessary to top the tree. Follow company guidelines and procedures at all times when topping a tree. Now try the quiz on the next page.

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General Guidelines for Topping Trees—Self-Quiz

1. True or false You need to know your safe zones and how to get to them fast.  True  False

2. True or false Anyone attempting to top a tree needs to have a good understanding of the hazards of falling trees beforehand.  True  False

Now check your answers on the next page.

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General Guidelines for Topping Trees—Quiz Answers

1. True or false You need to know your safe zones and how to get to them fast. Answer: True

2. True or false Anyone attempting to top a tree needs to have a good understanding of the hazards of falling trees beforehand. Answer: True

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Key Point 6.3: Top Trees in Accordance with Best Practices Topping a tree safely involves steps before and during cutting it and as the top is falling. Before cutting Note: See 1030-05 for information on the climbing of a tree. To safely top a tree, complete the following steps before cutting:

1. Climb to the point where the tree is to be topped. 2. Shorten your rope around the tree, and plant one foot above the level of the other. 3. Pick the direction you want the top to fall and check that opening in timber is big enough to allow top to break free. 4. Carefully look for any branches from other trees that will hold the top from falling or ones that could create a hazard for the topper, striking them as it falls. 5. Clear all the branches from around your work area. Note: If possible, leave one branch stub on the back of the tree from where you will stand, and keep the climbing rope under it. This will ensure you don’t inadvertently flip your own rope over the top of the tree. Also, when the top breaks loose, it won’t get flipped off then as well.

6. Have ground person ensure that the chainsaw is full of gas, sharp and warmed up. 7. Pull the chainsaw up to yourself and clip it onto your belt. • If you are right handed, you may want to attach it on that side, and left if you are left handed. Note: Some people will run a longer attachment line from the chainsaw and attach it to the loop on the rear of the belt. This allows the topper to work from both sides and keeps the saw out of the way when climbing.

8. Double-check that you are secure in the tree. Your climbing rope must be free to move around the tree and your spurs are firmly in the tree. 9. If you still have an axe with you, swing the sharp side of the head into the tree to secure it from flailing around as the top leaves the tree. Cutting To safely top a tree, complete the following steps while cutting: lng_1030.docx Page 102 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

1. Start the saw by holding against the tree in front of you or by drop starting beside you. 2. Make sure your climbing rope is in the clear of all cuts, and adjust if needed. 3. Ensure saw is warmed up and start the first falling cut by cutting the horizontal cut in the front of the tree. Note: It should only be 1/3 of tree diameter in depth and cut through from both sides. This is your “aiming” cut and will determine in which direction the top will fall. Ensure the direction is where you want the top to fall and adjust if needed.

CAUTION! Don’t drop the top on your equipment you will need to later rig the tree.

4. Stop cutting and remove bar from cut. Start second cut (bird’s mouth) below the first cut. Angle upwards to meet the first cut with no “Dutchman” (both first and second cut need to meet perfectly in cut).

CAUTION! A “Dutchman” will cause a barber chair or make the top hard to control as it falls causing it to move unexpectedly away from the intended falling direction. Company policy steps in here. Some require a safety chain to be wrapped around the bottom of the top, the top of the tree left after the cut or both. Follow company policy. These will stop the tree from splitting down the trunk as the top falls off and prevent the top from “barber chairing.” Note: Large tops might require the use of side notches. These are small bird’s mouth cuts only as deep as the sap wood on both sides of the cut done at 90 degrees to the first two cuts. They will reduce the chance of side slabs coming off the tree or top that can flick the topper off the top of the tree as the top breaks free from the trunk of the tree.

5. Start the third (back) cut ½” above the level of the first cut from the back of the tree. Ensure you have cut all the way around the back side of the tree from your position. Stay above the first cut slightly and don’t cut past the depth of the first cut. • Only cut deep enough to allow a wedge to be placed in the back cut behind the bar of the saw without touching the chain on the saw. Tap the wedge in with your axe then plant the axe back into the tree.

6. Stop for a few seconds and plan your move behind the top as it falls. Ensure you can pull your spurs clear if need to move quickly. lng_1030.docx Page 103 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

7. Continue with the back cut while tapping the wedge in behind the bar as you go. Do not cut the top off the tree! • Only cut in with the back cut until you have a hinge of ½” to 1” in width. As the top is falling To safely top a tree, complete the following steps as the top falls:

1. Watch the cut. Note: You might have to wait for the wind or pound the wedges more to start the falling process. If the top starts to go before you can place the wedge or starts to move at a rate faster than you thought, cut quickly to keep up with the falling top but again do not cut the top off.

2. Pull the saw free and lower it on its rope attached to your belt. 3. Quickly move a few steps sideways and down the tree a step (if possible) around the tree so the top is falling away from you. 4. Brace yourself by pushing away from the tree with both hands or grabbing both sides of your climbing rope between yourself and the tree. Bring both your hands towards the center while leaning back into the rope. 5. Duck down and keep your head below the top of the standing stem. Note: As the top falls, it will push the standing stem or trunk of the tree back 10 to 15 feet. That bend then releases, and the tree will wobble back and forth until it calms down. It will take 3 or 4 good wiggles then get better. Hang on tight.

CAUTION! Be aware of other trees around you, as they can shed branches at you or the top can hang up in the other trees. If the hung-up top doesn’t have enough forward momentum to break through obstructions, it will stop the fall of the top and can cause the top to spit off the back of the standing stem or roll off one side or the other of the standing stem.

6. Continue on to rigging the tree. The Topping a Tree video shows a tree being topped. Note the comments below from an expert about potential ways it could have been done better.

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Two things wrong with this picture: 1. The topper didn’t get behind the top when it went over. It’s the safest spot to swing behind the top. The topper should have quickly moved 90 degrees to his left as the top started to fall, and pushed at the tree (not the top) with his hands to stabilize himself. By staying where he was to fall the tree, the topper is trying to hold himself on the tree as it is wildly bucking from left to right as the top falls off the 60-foot high stump. 2. The topper is holding the rope away from the tree in the foreground. That rope is tied to the topper’s belt. If something goes wrong and the tree top goes over backwards, the guy on the ground is in a hazardous spot. The top will grab the rope and pull down on the topper’s belt. Now try the quiz on the next page.

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Top Trees in Accordance with Best Practices—Self-Quiz

1. Why is it useful to keep a branch stub on the back of a tree when topping it?  It prevents your rope from flipping over the top  It helps the top to break off properly  It marks the point where you can guide the top to fall  You can hang your tool bag over it

2. Where does your first horizontal cut need to be on the tree?  The right side of the tree  The left side of the tree  The back side of the tree  The front side of the tree

3. How much higher does the 3rd cut need to be than the 1st cut?

 1 inch  1/2 of an inch  2 inches  3/4 of an inch

Now check your answers on the next page.

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Top Trees in Accordance with Best Practices—Quiz Answers

1. Why is it useful to keep a branch stub on the back of a tree when topping it? Answer: It prevents your rope from flipping over the top

2. Where does your first horizontal cut need to be on the tree? Answer: The front side of the tree

3. How much higher does the 3rd cut need to be than the 1st cut? Answer: ½ of an inch

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Section 1030-07: Tailholds What you will learn in this section By the end of this section, you will be able to demonstrate your knowledge and ability in the following key points: 7.1 Locate anchors for tailhold 7.2 Equipment required for tailhold 7.3 Rig a tailhold

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Key Point 7.1: Locate Anchors for Tailhold You need to be able to demonstrate your ability to locate anchors for tailhold. If a tail line is twisted back, it will require a tailhold. Tailholds Suitable anchors are chosen by the same principles as the guyline anchors. If the capacity of a stump is questionable, tie it back. Notch the tailhold and haulback stumps in the same way as the guyline anchors. Double-wrapping a stump to avoid notching is prohibited.

The best tailhold is one where the line is clear of obstacles and stumps share the load All lines must run clear of obstructions to avoid burning the line and any potential side bind. Remove any major obstacles in the bight of the line and clear an area around the anchor stumps. In haulback systems, a second stump anchor for a corner block works best to keep the lines from burning and the chokers free. A corner block on about the same line as the tailblock will help share the load and increase the payload capacity. Note: The stumps aren’t usually as indicated in the picture, all by themselves on a grassy slope. The hooker will have to be able to hunt around to find the suitable tailhold and sometimes second choice (such as a smaller stump that needs to be tied back) is the better stump because it is in lead.

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Ground conditions Solid ground or gravel is ideal. Clay or marsh type landscapes are not ideal. Trees to use for tailholds The following are trees best used for tailholds, in order of “best to worst” in terms of strength: 1. Fir 2. Spruce 3. Hemlock 4. Yellow cedar 5. Red cedar

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Placement of support trees, tailtrees and tailholds

Placement of support trees, tail trees, and tailholds Tailtrees will probably require at least two guylines and usually all four, to support the combination of forces on the tailtree during logging. The zone for the skyline anchor is within 8 degrees on either side of the yarding line. The guy zones for the tailtree are 35 degrees to 55 degrees offset from the yarding line. The two rear guylines usually take most of the load. Adjust guy zones according to the anchor offset, the position, and strength of other guyline anchors, and lateral forces exerted on the skyline. Remember: lng_1030.docx Page 111 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

• Guys zones for four tailtree anchors must be 35 degrees to 55 degrees to offset the yarding line • Skyline anchor zone must offset no more than 8 degrees from the yarding line

Now try the quiz on the next page.

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Locate Anchors for Tailhold— Self-Quiz

1. Clay type soil conditions are the best for a tailhold anchor.  True  False

2. What is the maximum distance a tailtree should be from a skyline?

 3 to 10 feet  20 to 25 feet  3 to 5 feet  30 to 35 feet

3. Which guylines usually take most of the load in a tailhold setup?  Rear  Front  Side  All are equal

Now check your answers on the next page.

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Locate Anchors for Tailhold— Quiz Answers

1. Clay type soil conditions are the best for a tailhold anchor. Answer: False

2. What is the maximum distance a tailtree should be from a skyline? Answer: 3 to 5 feet

3. Which guylines usually take most of the load in a tailhold setup? Answer: Rear

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Key Point 7.2: Equipment Required for Tailhold The equipment required for tailholds differ depending on the landscape and company policy. Common equipment for tailholds includes the following: • Blocks • Straps • Shackles • Straw line • Pins (with Mollys) Note: If you are running a skyline, you will require all of the above as well as a skyline jack. They are holding much more weight, so bigger equipment and more tiebacks and twisters are necessary. Tail and corner blocks Blocks are commonly used on yarding lines to turn the direction of the line and distribute stress on anchors and attachments. Considerations must be made to not overload the corner or tailblock attachments or anchors. Tailblocks are less strained when the load is shared by a corner block. Use blocks appropriate for the job with sheaves large enough for the wire rope used. The line attachment for a block is stronger when hung in both eyes of a strap. Always hang straps in lead with the load. Never choke a stump with a strap by threading one eye through the other (except for haywires or other light loads) or the line could cut through itself and fail.

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Example of a 16” block with a 1” line

16” block with 1” line Sheave groove must be the correct diameter to minimize line wear. Measure the line and sheave diameters to be sure. In addition, observe the following precautions: • Except for rig-up blocks, blocks must be fitted with a line guard between the gooseneck and the sheave to prevent fouling • The block sheave and shell must be tightly fit to prevent lines from jumping the sheave • Lubricate the blocks at regular intervals • Load-bearing blocks must only be used with lines for which they are constructed. See table below for strap sizes • Straps must be long enough to allow the block to align with the angle of the haulback. This will increase the load capacity and prevent the line from burning on the shell of the block • Use proper pins, equipped with mollies, cotter keys, or other effective means to secure the pins • Insert the yoke pin of the haulback block so the head faces toward the rigging. This ensures that the rigging, if it reaches the block, cannot force out the pin and cause the system to fail • Check the blocks during use to be sure they stay in alignment with the load.

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Strap sizes for rigging at ground level (inches)

Skyline or running Block hung in both Block hung in line eyes single eye 5/16 1/4 1/2 3/8 1/4 9/16 7/16 5/16 5/8 1/2 3/8 3/4 9/16 7/16 7/8 5/8 5/8 1 3/4 3/4 1-1/8 7/8 7/8 1-1/4 1 1 1-3/8 1-1/8 1 not permitted 1-1/4 1 not permitted 1-3/8 1 not permitted 1-1/2 1-1/8 not permitted 1-5/8 1-1/4 not permitted

Use both eyes of the strap to hang blocks

Never choke a stump with the eye of a strap Maintain proper line angles on shackles When wrapping a strap with two eyes around an anchor for a corner or tail block, the attached shackle to secure the line must be far enough from the anchor to make an angle of the two lines from the lng_1030.docx Page 117 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

bell of the shackle less than 90 degrees. Wider angles increase loading on the stump. Line angle must be no greater than 90 degrees. Ensure a safe angle where the strap eyes meet at the shackle.

Carrying blocks Blocks are heavy and awkward, and carrying them in the brush can be hazardous. Some companies have a policy to only pack a block with the gooseneck closed. When carrying a block, remember the following to avoid back injury: • Lift the block from a stable stance with knees bent • Pick up the block by the gooseneck, not the sheave, and swing it onto your back, high between the shoulder blades Note: This position allows the block to be held in place with one hand, leaving the other hand free to keep balance while walking. • Keep mollies away from your neck or face to avoid cuts • If you trip while carrying the block, throw it clear Note: Do not, however, intentionally throw blocks down bluffs. Damage may occur to the block that is hard to see.

Correct way to carry a block while walking Now try the quiz on the next page. lng_1030.docx Page 118 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

Equipment Required for Tailhold—Self-Quiz

1. What is the maximum angle of the two lines from the bell of the shackle when run around an anchor?  45 degrees  60 degrees  75 degrees  90 degrees

2. Choking a stump with the eye of a strap is permitted in certain circumstances.  True  False

3. If you are using tailholds in a skyline setup, what two things are additionally needed to compensate for the extra weight?  Cotter keys  Mollys  Twisters  Tiebacks 4. It is permitted to pick up a block using the sheave.  True  False

Now check your answers on the next page.

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Tailhold Equipment—Quiz Answers

1. What is the maximum angle of the two lines from the bell of the shackle when run around an anchor? Answer: 90 degrees

2. Choking a stump with the eye of a strap is permitted in certain circumstances. Answer: False

3. If you are using tailholds in a skyline setup, what two things are additionally needed to compensate for the extra weight? Answer: Twisters, Tiebacks

4. It is permitted to pick up a block using the sheave. Answer: False

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Key Point 7.3: Rig a Tailhold There are many ways to rig a tailtree. Usually a strap can be wrapped directly on the tree with short limbs holding it from sliding down the tree. A tree plate or barking may be necessary where the rigging is hung if there is potential for the strap to slide down the tree or cut through the tree and weaken the support. An example is when steep forces are exerted on the tree or in the spring when sap can make the bark slippery. The three typical methods to hang a strap are as follows: • Use a strap with two eyes, wrap the tree fully, and hang the block in both eyes • Use a choker as a strap. Usually this will need to be a rather large choker. Choke the tree and hang the block in the eye of the choker • Use two chokers of equal length, wrap in a swede-type configuration, and hang the block in both eyes. This is the most common because the line size can be smaller, creating less weight for the tree climber Additional factors in rigging a tailtree include the following main points: • Keep straps as short as possible • The skyline must run freely in the sheave. Align the sheave with the position of the skyline anchor so the skyline does not bind. With a wooden- filled shoe, binding is not such a critical factor as long as the tree is sturdy and well guyed • Hang the block below the point where the guylines are attached to reduce stress on the tree. In some rig-ups, a small pass block is hung above the point of attachment, but this is typically used only to allow workers on the ground to pull rigging up to the tree climber • The tree climber will need to remove branches from the tree as he climbs, either with a saw or axe. At the point of attachment, leave “coat hanger” branches sticking out approximately six inches to help hang the rigging and prevent the rigging from stripping down the tree • Check the tree rigging every day before use along with all other anchors and blocks

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Front view: A tree shoe with an aluminum or hardwood lining to support a standing skyline

Rear view: (A) The shackle or tree shoe is held by a strap, supported by a second strap choked around the tree above the guylines. (B) A tree plate supports the straps held in place by spikes and a notch in the tree. Many different methods are possible for rigging tailtrees Strap sizes for rigginghung up trees (inches)

Skyline or Block hung in both Block hung in running line eyes single eye 5/16 1/4 5/16 3/8 1/4 3/8 7/16 5/16 3/8 1/2 5/16 3/8 5/8 3/8 9/16 lng_1030.docx Page 122 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

3/4 1/2 3/4 7/8 9/16 3/4 1 5/8 7/8 1-1/8 3/4 1 1-1/4 3/4 1-1/8 1-3/8 7/8 not permitted 1-1/2 1 not permitted 1-5/8 1 not permitted 2 1-1/8 not permitted The table shows strap sizes based on a fairly flat angel of the line going through the block hung in the tree. If the line creates a purchase on the block, then the strap needs to be upsized accordingly. Required guyline size for tailtrees

Line size Guyline size 5/8 and less 3/8 Between 5/8 and 1 1/2 1 5/8

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Straps for separate lines can be hung together as long as they do not rub against each other. They should be choked in opposite directions. Minimize the bight in the strap.

Make sure the head of the choker or shackle pin faces against the tree to avoid the connection coming loose. If logs are to be pulled from behind the tree, use four guylines. In a running skyline operation with both lines hung in a tailtree, use four guylines. If it becomes necessary to de-rig some of these guylines to facilitate the yarding process, make sure to account for the loss of stability. Never consider the skyline as a guyline. Guylines should be positioned in appropriate guyline zones. If no stump anchor is available in a recommended guy zone, two guylines on either side of the guy zone can be rigged to oppose the load. Follow standard procedures to secure guyline anchors and use tiebacks and multiple anchors as necessary. Make sure the angles of the guylines as well as the skyline at the tailhold are no greater than 50 degrees from the horizontal. Consider using buckle guys in a rigged tree when rigging produces a buckling force in the tree. Buckling forces are typically caused by extreme rigging height, undersized trees, or extreme side loading. Buckle guys are typically rigged at two-thirds the height of top guylines. When placing guylines, pay special attention to the direction of force, which differs according to the relative angles of the skyline and tailhold on each side of the tailtree. The block strap will hang in the direction of force. In most situations, the force is toward the yarder, requiring guylines on the back side. However, when the angle of the skyline is narrower in front of the tailtree, as in downhill logging, the force will be backward and will require guylines in front (see diagram below). The diagram shows how the relative angles of the skyline and tailhold on each side of the tailtree affects the direction of force. With (A) uphill yarding (flatter angle on skyline), the direction of force is toward

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the yarder. In (B) downhill yading (flatter angle on tailhold), the direction of force is away from the yarder.

Failure zone of rigged trees Note: This information is also available in 1030-01. Rigged support trees create an additional hazard for the rigging crew. Workers must get clear of rigged trees before lines are tensioned such as: • During outhaul and inhaul • Any time logs are moved or suspended • When any tightening of the running lines occur Minor movement of the rigging to set chokers does not require getting clear. A competent person must instruct the crew on the boundaries of the failure zone for rigged trees and the direction of failure under different conditions. The force on a rigged tree is generally toward the yarder during inhaul, but the force can also be back, depending on line angles and possibly to the side, due to lateral forces. The direction of force will reverse during outhaul according to the position of the carriage and the pull on the jackline.

CAUTION! Failure in a rigged tree can also involve the top snapping or the tree buckling below the point of attachment, which can send chunks flying anywhere. lng_1030.docx Page 125 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

Have a qualified person determine the failure zone of rigged trees and notify the crew of this area and where it is safe to stand. Workers must stay clear of a potential failure zone of a rigged tree or other danger tree. Stay clear of the tree and other trees, logs, lines, or other materials that could be struck and set in motion. Use extra caution when working in standing timber where hang-ups are more common and forces exerted on rigged trees are more unpredictable.

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Rig a Tailhold—Self-Quiz

1. What is the most common way to hang a strap when rigging a tailtree?  Use two chokers, wrapped together  Use a choker as a strap, hanging the block in the eye of the choker

 Choose a strap with two eyes, hanging the block in both  Choose a strap that can be attached easily to a tree plate

2. Why are coat hanger branches left on a tree and other branches removed when rigging a tailtree?  They help the climber to get down  They help to hang a pass block  They help to hang the rigging  They help to attach a tree shoe

3. If it is not possible to rig a tailhold in the 8 degree limit, what needs to be done for safety?  A tailhold as far to the side must be selected  More guylines must be used  A second strap must be used  A tree plate must be held in by spikes

4. A block strap must always be hung in the direction of force.

 True  False

Now check your answers on the next page.

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Rig a Tailhold—Quiz Answers

1. What is the most common way to hang a strap when rigging a tailtree? Answer: Use two chokers, wrapped together

2. Why are coat hanger branches left on a tree and other branches removed when rigging a tailtree? Answer: They help to hang the rigging

3. If it is not possible to rig a tailhold in the 8-degree limit, what needs to be done for safety? Answer: More guylines must be used

4. A block strap must always be hung in the direction of force. Answer: True

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Section 1030-08: Intermediate Support Trees What you will learn in this section By the end of this section, you will be able to demonstrate your knowledge and ability in the following key points: 8.1 Equipment required for intermediate support trees 8.2 Locate anchors for intermediate support trees 8.3 Rig a single intermediate support 8.4 Prepare the support line block stops and blocks 8.5 Hang the support line block 8.6 Hang guylines 8.7 Support jack and raising the skyline

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Key Point 8.1: Equipment Required for Intermediate Support Trees This key point covers the equipment required for intermediate support trees. Below are definitions you will find helpful: Pass block • A light block at the top of a spar tree (wooden) used to pull rigging up the tree Pass strap • A strap with lightweight construction used with the pass rope to position the rigging up tree Lightweight pass rope • Generally a 13 mm natural fibre Intermediate support jack • A hanger device used to support a skyline Intermediate support line • Same strength as the guylines • A ferrule at one end and an eye at the other • Long enough to run from the ground, up the tree to support the line block, and back to the ground Support line blocks • Must be strong enough to support skyline, jack, carriage and drag during operation • Strap for intermediate support line block • A short piece of wire rope with an eye in each end, used to hold blocks to stumps or anchors Two guylines • Long enough for the 45-degree angle between the anchor and tree • Are fitted with terminals suited to type of anchor used Sundries • Soft wire or twine • Bulldog clamps or dog spikes to secure guyline to the anchor • Note that three bulldog clamps are needed per guyline lng_1030.docx Page 130 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

Key Point 8.2: Locate Anchors for Intermediate Support Trees Note: Content of this key point also appears in 1030-07. Ground conditions Solid ground or gravel is ideal. Clay or marsh type landscapes are not ideal. Trees to use for tailholds The following are trees best used for tailholds, in order of “best to worst” in terms of strength: 1. Fir 2. Spruce 3. Hemlock 4. Yellow cedar 5. Red cedar Note: This content also appears in 1026-04. Tailholds Suitable anchors are chosen by the same principles as the guyline anchors. If the capacity of a stump is questionable, tie it back. Notch the tailhold and haulback stumps in the same way as the guyline anchors. Double-wrapping a stump to avoid notching is prohibited.

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The best tailhold is one where the line is clear of obstacles and stumps share the load An expert explains that in the picture below, the stumps are not usually as shown, all by themselves on a grassy slope. The hooker will have to be able to hunt around to find the suitable tailhold and sometimes second choice, that is, a smaller stump. It needs to be tied back and is the better stump because it is in lead. Placement of support trees, tailtrees and tailholds

Placement of support trees, tail trees, and tailholds lng_1030.docx Page 132 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

Tailtrees will probably require at least two guylines and usually all four, to support the combination of forces on the tailtree during logging. The zone for the skyline anchor is within 8 degrees on either side of the yarding line. The guy zones for the tailtree are 35 degrees to 55 degrees offset from the yarding line. The two rear guylines usually take most of the load. Adjust guy zones according to the anchor offset, the position, and strength of other guyline anchors, and lateral forces exerted on the skyline. Remember: • Guys zones for four tailtree anchors must be 35 degrees to 55 degrees to offset the yarding line • Skyline anchor zone must offset no more than 8 degrees from the yarding line

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Key Point 8.3: Rig a Single Intermediate Support Note: This content is also in 1030-01. Single tree support A single tree support is the most common in British Columbia and simplest to set up. The two methods for using single tree support are: • Two blocks on the same side • Two blocks opposite Two blocks on the same side Advantages • Only need one anchor/tail hold (if not using skyline), less equipment needed, less work to set up, can jump to back end adjust and move anchors more easily Disadvantages • Can’t walk the machine very far (only until the line touches the tree) Two blocks opposite Advantages • Two tailholds means less force on tree, lines spread to sides. It adds support with the effect like running guylines or tension spread between two Disadvantages • More work to set up, limited ability to walk, and one block is further and one closer to line

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Rigging a single tree The single tree support is the simplest to set up. A jackline is rigged in the support tree, with the jack either hanging free on the line, or anchored at an angle to hold the jack away from the tree. For skylines larger than one inch in diameter, two guylines must be rigged. If under one inch, one guyline can be used directly opposite the jackline. If the tree moves more than one time its diameter at the point of attachment, then a second guyline should be rigged 45 degrees downhill. If the tree shows no movement, no guylines may be required. On very small trees, where two guylines opposite the jackline are not adequate, use a third guyline in the direction of the jackline. If the tree still moves, use buckle guys, typically rigged at two-thirds the height of normal guylines.

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Intermediate support tree - vertical Now try the quiz on the next page.

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Intermediate Support and Tailholds—Self-Quiz

1. Intermediate support lines should be equal in strength to the guylines  True  False

2. What should we do if the stump we are using as a tail hold doesn’t seem strong?  Double wrap it  Add extra spikes to it  Tie it back  Use a thicker line to attach it

3. What is the maximum angle that a tail hold should be away from the skyline?  10 degrees  8 degrees  7 degrees  5 degrees

4. What situation requires two guy lines at a minimum rigged to a single support tree?  Skyline of 1/2 inch in diameter  Skyline of 3/4 of an inch in diameter  Skyline of 5/8 of an inch in diameter  Skyline of 1 inch in diameter

Now check your answers on the next page.

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Intermediate Support and Tailholds—Quiz Answers

1. Intermediate support lines should be equal in strength to the guylines. Answer: True

2. What should we do if the stump we are using as a tail hold doesn’t seem strong? Answer: Tie it back

3. What is the maximum angle that a tail hold should be away from the skyline? Answer: 8 degrees

4. What situation requires two guy lines at a minimum rigged to a single support tree? Answer: Skyline of 1 inch in diameter

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Key Point 8.4: Prepare the Support Line Block Stops and Blocks Tail and corner blocks Blocks are commonly used on yarding lines to turn the direction of the line and distribute stress on anchors and attachments. Remember the following when using block: • Considerations must be made to not overload corner or tailblock attachments or anchors • Tailblocks are less strained when the load is shared by a corner block • Use blocks appropriate for the job with sheaves large enough for the wire rope used • The line attachment for a block is stronger when hung in both eyes of a strap • Always hang straps in lead with the load • Never choke a stump with a strap by threading one eye through the other (except for haywires or other light loads) as the line could cut through itself and fail 16” block with 1” line Sheave groove must be the correct diameter to minimize line wear. Measure the line and sheave diameters to be sure.

Example of a 16” block with a 1” line In addition, observe the following precautions: • Except for rig-up blocks, blocks must be fitted with a line guard between the gooseneck and the sheave to prevent fouling • The block sheave and shell must be tightly fit to prevent lines from jumping the sheave • Lubricate the blocks at regular intervals lng_1030.docx Page 139 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

• Load-bearing blocks must only be used with lines for which they are constructed. (See table below for strap sizes.) • Straps must be long enough to allow the block to align with the angle of the haulback. This will increase the load capacity and prevent the line from burning on the shell of the block • Use proper pins, equipped with mollies, cotter keys, or other effective means to secure the pins • Insert the yoke pin of the haulback block so the head faces toward the rigging. This ensures that the rigging, if it reaches the block, cannot force out the pin and cause the system to fail • Check the blocks during use to be sure they stay in alignment with the load Strap sizes for rigging at ground level (inches)

Skyline or running Block hung in both Block hung in single line eyes eye 5/16 1/4 1/2 3/8 1/4 9/16 7/16 5/16 5/8 1/2 3/8 3/4 9/16 7/16 7/8 5/8 5/8 1 3/4 3/4 1-1/8 7/8 7/8 1-1/4 1 1 1-3/8 1-1/8 1 not permitted 1-1/4 1 not permitted 1-3/8 1 not permitted 1-1/2 1-1/8 not permitted 1-5/8 1-1/4 not permitted

Use both eyes of the strap to hang blocks

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Never choke a stump with the eye of a strap Now try the quiz on the next page.

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Support Line Block Stops and Blocks—Self-Quiz

1. Choking a stump with the eye of a strap is permitted in certain circumstances.  True  False

2. If my skyline is one half inch, how big must the block be when hung on a single eye?  Half an inch  Five eighths of an inch  Three quarters of an inch  One inch

3. It is permitted to pick up a block using the sheave.

 True  False

4. A one and a half inch skyline can be rigged to a block hung in both eyes.  True  False

Now check your answers on the next page.

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Support Line Block Stops and Blocks—Quiz Answers

1. Choking a stump with the eye of a strap is permitted in certain circumstances. Answer: False

2. If my skyline is one half inch, how big must the block be when hung on a single eye? Answer: Three quarters of an inch

3. It is permitted to pick up a block using the sheave. Answer: False

4. A one and a half inch skyline can be rigged to a block hung in both eyes. Answer: True

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Key Point 8.5: Hang the Support Line Block Note: Refer to 1030-08.4 for content on this. Hanging the support line block To hang a support block, complete the following steps:

1. Ask the ground person to raise the support line block to the desired position. 2. Hook the block yoke into the eye or eyes of the block strap or straps. 3. Remove the yoke pin from the open side. 4. Ask the ground person to raise the block using the pass rope, so that the yoke closes. 5. Refit the pin. 6. Ask the ground person to lower the block on pass rope until the strap supports the blocks weight. 7. Untie the pass rope and feed slack down to the ground person. 8. Put a grommet or locking pin through the yoke pin.

The support line block correctly hung

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Key Point 8.6: Hang Guylines General backspar guyline information • When a backspar is required, guylines must be used if company dictates. Proper rigging practices for guylines also apply to backspars. A come-along may be used to tighten a backspar guyline. Use a minimum of three spikes to secure the last wrap • Three line clamps can be used in place of spiking the line to the stump • A guyline secured to a stump must be wrapped at least 2½ times. The top wrap must be secured with three spikes. The number and position of spikes should be adequate to ensure that the guyline will handle the imposed stresses • Guylines must be rigged above all other rigging in the tree (unless they are buckle guys). They must also be of sufficient size and length • Railway spikes should only be used with large lines and large stumps Note: 2.5 cm (1 in.) of slack in the guyline on the stump gives 30 cm (1 ft.) of slack in the belly of the guyline. Guyline requirements—skyline systems Single support system

1 For skylines 1 ⁄8 inches in diameter or smaller, a minimum of two back or support guys and one snap guy on the low side is required. 1 For skylines larger than 1 ⁄8 inches in diameter, a minimum of three back or support guys and two snap guys on the low side of the tree is required. The guys must be: • Anchored so that the load is shared equally by all guys other than the snap guys • Securely attached to the top of the tree • Securely attached to sound anchors in a manner consistent with good rigging practices Double tree support system 1 • For skylines 1 ⁄8 inches and smaller, no guylines are required. Jack support lines provide support, as shown in the illustrations on the next page 1 • For skylines larger than 1 ⁄8 inches, the supports must be guyed as shown in the illustration below • Double-tree support systems must be rigged with a single- 1 strap jack line ⁄8 inch larger than the dropline lng_1030.docx Page 145 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

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Plan view

Double-tree support system with additional guylines On a steep profile break, the jack will be forced uphill by the yarding force. Guylines will need to be positioned accordingly to support the backspar. Now try the quiz on the next page.

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Blocks and Guylines—Self- Quiz

1. What is the last step in hanging the support line block?  Threading a lock pin through the yoke pin  Untying the pass rope  Feeding the slack down to the ground person  Hanging on the line to check its strength

2. What is the minimum amount of times that a guy line must be wrapped around a stump?  2 times  2 1/2 times  3 times  3 1/2 times

3. How big should the single strap jack line be compared to the dropline in a double tree support system?  1/4 inch larger  1/4 inch smaller  1/8 inch larger  1/8 inch smaller

4. The angle of the jackline from the block to the jack should be the same as the angle of the guy line to the anchor.

 True  False

Now check your answers on the next page.

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Blocks and Guylines—Quiz Answers

1. What is the last step in hanging the support line block? Answer: Threading a lock pin through the yoke pin

2. What is the minimum amount of times that a guy line must be wrapped around a stump? Answer: 2 ½ times

3. How big should the single strap jack line be compared to the dropline in a double tree support system? Answer: 1/8 inch larger

4. The angle of the jackline from the block to the jack should be the same as the angle of the guy line to the anchor. Answer: True

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Key Point 8.7: Support Jack and Raising Skyline Rigging the support jack and raising the skyline To rig the support jack and raise the skyline, complete the following steps:

1. Thread the eye of support line through the sheave in the support jack. 2. Attach the pass rope to the support line, and use the pass rope to pull the support line through support line block. 3. Attach the support line eye to the jack. 4. Lay the skyline out between the trees, and under the support line. 5. Position the skyline in the shoe of the jack. 6. Pull the support jack and skyline up to the desired position in the tree (use mechanical assistance, or additional personnel, etc.).

Intermediate support jack

Skyline in support jack, support line about to be tensioned and tied to stump lng_1030.docx Page 150 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

7. Use soft wire or twine to retain the skyline in the shoe while it is raised. The wire or twine will not interfere with operation of the system, as the carriage will cut it as it passes over.

8. Attach the support line to the anchor as if it were a guyline to complete the single tree support.

Completed single tree intermediate support

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Jacks—Self-Quiz

1. What is used to pull the support line through the support line block when rigging a support jack?  The pass rope  The skyline  A strap  An additional support line

2. Mechanical assistance can be used to pull the skyline and support jack into the correct position in the tree.  True  False

3. Leaving the wire you use to retain the skyline in the shoe may damage the carriage as it passes over it.  True  False

Now check your answers on the next page.

lng_1030.docx Page 152 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018

Jacks—Quiz Answers

1. What is used to pull the support line through the support line block when rigging a support jack? Answer: The pass rope

2. Mechanical assistance can be used to pull the skyline and support jack into the correct position in the tree. Answer: True

3. Leaving the wire you use to retain the skyline in the shoe may damage the carriage as it passes over it. Answer: False

lng_1030.docx Page 153 of 153 Date: March 24, 2018