NORTH GOA •• North Goa 119 North Goa
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NORTH GOA North Goa North Goa 118 © LonelyPlanetPublications be experienced. ofGoamust onamotorcycleorjustenjoyedfromthebeach, thisregion Whether explored allthemorphingandmayhemofcoastalareas. theirauthenticitydespite retained have that oftemples Bicholim andSatari,youwillfindvillages,farmlandascattering Goanexperience. quintessentially eclectic andtherefore making thenightbazaarsofBagaandArporaattract everyone, foran is alsoabigevent; ontheatmosphericAnjunafleamarket. Saturdaynight thecountryconverge from allover southern beaches. forparty saturated peopleseeking fromthemore respite yearshasprovided refuge recent north stillisArambol,whichin Further taking individual character. theirtimetodevelop whichare andMandrem, beachesofMorjim,Asvem thequieter are of theChaporaRiver North here. permeated thathave lifestyles andalternative the meltingpotofsubcultures hippies andthecuriousfolkwhowanderthroughtomeetthem todiptheirtoeinto hometo Beachesare north, AnjunaandVagator Further andrestaurants. shacks, hotels ofbeach linedwithhundreds beaches,are byfarthemosttourist-populated and Calangute, Candolim coastlineofthestate. North dynamicanddiverse Goa has themostdeveloped, HIGHLIGHTS Head away from the hype to the less discovered inland areas of Bardez, Pernem, ofBardez,Pernem, inlandareas Head awayfromthehypetolessdiscovered andtraders tourists,localforeigners highpointoftheweekisWednesday,where The Goan parties Goan world of Immerse yourself inthesurreal Britain and Bombayin Spend anightonthe townwithkids from markets Indiaatthe from allover Sample localcuisine andpurchaseitems theocean at overhanging guesthousewitha balcony Grab acliffside Shop at beach shack sun goesdown,thenheadtoahappening Anjuna fleamarket ( p129) of Arpora and Baga ( p148 ) inAnjuna orVagator p148 ( Baga Saturday night Saturday night Arambol ( p134) ( p141 ) till the ) tillthe p141 ( ( p153 ) p153 ( Anjuna Arambol Vagator Baga Arpora www.lonelyplanet.com 010 km NORTH GOA 0 6 miles To Mumbai (580km) 17 M A H A R A S H T R A Terekhol l Anconem o North Goa Fort h Rive r Naibaga Terek Pernem Train Station Querim Pernem K Alorna o Querim nk Fort K A R N A T A K A Beach an PERNEM iver Arambol R Beach Arambol Davanvado Rai Parcem Dargalim lw Mandrem ay Mandrem Chapora Beach Thivim (Mapusa Road) W Chopdem Colvale Train Station Asvem e Asvem Beach Golauli Siolim s Morjim Anjunem t Morjim Beach BICHOLIM e Chapora r Chapora Fort Corjuem n BARDEZ Gontel Codal Vagator Moira Fort G Vagator Beach Mapusa Bicholim h Aldona Porlem a Anjuna t Anjuna Beach Arpora SATARI s r Rive Saptakoteshwara Baga Temple Sanquelim NORTH ••North GOA Goa Pomburpao Mayem Lake Baga Beach Chorao Porvorim Naroa Onda Island Bondir Calangute Calangute Beach Saligao Britona usa Map Valpoi Candolim 17 Divar Island Mand Candolim Beach Dr Salim Ali Reis Betim Bird Sanctuary ovi Nanus Fort Magos R Sinquerim Beach Old Goa iv Nerul er Reis 4A Fort Aguada Magos Panaji Karmali Coco Beach Fort (Panjim) Aguada (Old Goa) Arabian Train Station Sea Bay Miramar Cotorem Miramar Beach Cabo Raj Niwas TISWADI SANGUEM PONDA 119 To Margao 17 Bamboi Mormugao Bay (18km) NORTH GOA NORTH 120 NORTH GOA •• Panaji to Fort Aguada www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com NORTH GOA •• Candolim & Sinquerim 121 PANAJI TO FORT AGUADA across the water to Miramar and Panaji when compared with the overall area sur- Candolim Beach is a clean, straight stretch Reis Magos (Panjim). One thing that has contributed rounded by defences, you realise that this of sand running north to Calangute. It’s a A classic Portuguese fort and Reis Magos Church, to the relative quietness of Coco Beach is only a fraction of the fort. The buildings little quieter, with fewer beach shacks, and dedicated to St Jerome, make the small vil- is the fact that there are no water sports below the bastion on the waterfront now tends to attract a slightly older crowd, as lage of Reis Magos worthy of a stop on the here; local fishermen successfully brought house the state prison, but the old bastion well as the few travellers who find Calan- way to the beaches. It’s not difficult to ap- an end to them after complaining that the on the hilltop can be visited. In the main gute and Baga too busy and Anjuna and preciate the importance of the site that this commotion had a negative impact on their courtyard of the fort are the underground Vagator too much of a scene. fort occupies, as it offers protection at the livelihood. water tanks. These huge echoing chambers narrowest part of the Mandovi River. The In recent years, there has been an increase indicate just how seriously the architects Orientation & Information fort was built in 1551 after the north bank in the range of accommodation available. took the threat of a long siege. The main drag, roughly between Sinquerim of the river came under Portuguese con- Albert’s Odyssey (%0832-2401518; r Rs 500) is The old lighthouse, which stands in the in the south and St Anthony’s Chapel in trol. It was rebuilt in 1703, in time to assist a great place to stay. Rooms have lots of middle of the fort, was built in 1864 and the north, is lined with souvenir shops, res- the desperate defence against the Marathas storage space and hot-water bathrooms. Al- once housed the great bell from the Church taurants, hotels, travel agencies and places (1737–39), during which the whole of Bar- bert’s also organises boat and fishing trips of St Augustine in Old Goa before it was to make phone calls or read email. Davidair dez, with the exception of the Reis Magos and turns out good food. If you can’t find moved to the Church of Our Lady of the (%2277007; www.com2goa.com) is a reputable and Aguada forts, was occupied. a room here, staff may be able to suggest Immaculate Conception in Panaji. Unfortu- travel agency specialising in flights out of Although Reis Magos had the distinction another place nearby. nately, at the time of research they weren’t Goa and organised tours. of never being captured by the enemy, it was Behind Nerul church, Bai Tereza Beach Camp letting anyone up to the top. There are numerous currency exchanges occupied by a foreign army in 1799 when (%9890694138/58; www.goabeachcamp.com; 1-/2-/3-/ Nearby, the new lighthouse (adult/child Rs 5/3; offices and travel agencies where you can the British requisitioned both it and Fort 4-person tent incl full board Rs 1300/2200/2900/3600, 1-/2-/ h4-5.30pm) can also be visited; cameras are change money and get cash advances on Aguada in anticipation of a possible attack 3-/4-person tent incl breakfast Rs 795/1190/1385/1580) is not allowed inside. credit cards. HFDC (near Acron Arcade) by the French. After the British withdrawal a newly established Danish-run camp con- A short way to the east of the bastion is the and UTI Bank (near Dona Alcino Resorts) in 1813 the Reis Magos fort gradually lost sisting of iglooesque tents on the far end pretty Church of St Lawrence, which also occu- have ATMs, and you can change cash and importance, and was eventually abandoned of the beach, which is probably the most pies a magnificent viewpoint. The Church travellers cheques at the State Bank of India. NORTH GOA by the military and converted into a jail. It’s secluded point you can get. Meals are pro- was built in 1643 to honour St Lawrence, A useful multipurpose place is Archana not open to the public, but it’s still worth vided by the Danish chef, and the bonfire the patron saint of sailors. Complex (often called the Elephant Shop coming up here for the excellent views. is lit at night. There is a young and inter- South of the church and at the end of the because of its carved elephants); on the The little church standing below the fort- national vibe to this place, though the high road is Aguada Jail, which houses a number main road, it changes money at good rates, NORTH GOA ress walls is made all the more attractive prices keep it a tad exclusive. of Westerners, mostly on drug charges. provides tourist information and sells a by the imposing black bastions that loom To get to Fort Aguada you can ride a wide range of carvings and souvenirs. above it. The first church was built in 1555, Fort Aguada bike or motorcycle or take a taxi along the The post office is near the north end of shortly after the fort itself. A seminary was Standing on the headland overlooking the 4km winding road that heads east from the village. later added, and over the years it became a mouth of the Mandovi River, Fort Aguada Sinquerim Beach and loops up around the significant seat of learning. (Map p122 ) occupies a magnificent pos- headland. It’s an enjoyable motorcycle ride, Activities Only the church remains, with its steep ition, confirmed by the fact that it was never with good views along the top of the head- BOAT TRIPS steps up from the road and fine views of the taken by force. This is a very popular spot to land. By bicycle there’s a steep initial climb, John’s Boat Tours (%2497450, 9822386050, 5620190) Mandovi River from the main doors. Out- watch the sunset, with uninterrupted views best done in the early morning. Otherwise has earned its good reputation by providing side the church, the lions portrayed in relief north and south. The motivation for build- there’s a steep 2km walking trail to the fort a decent service, and through a BBC plug at the foot of the steps show signs of Hindu ing the fort came from the increasing threat that starts just past Marbella guesthouse. that it has milked for all its worth since. influence, and a crown tops off the façade. of attacks by the Dutch, among others, and It has dolphin-watching trips (Rs 795) The interior of the church is impressively work was commenced in 1612. CANDOLIM & SINQUERIM and boat rides to the Anjuna flea market colourful and contains the tombs of three The fort covers the entire headland, and %0832 / pop 8600 (Rs 395), and also does a tour through viceroys.