© Lonely Planet Publications 118 www.lonelyplanet.com NORTH •• North Goa 119 North Goa

s North Goa t a h G n e r SANGUEM

t Bondir W e s Codal North Goa has the most developed, dynamic and diverse coastline of the state. Candolim K A R N A T A K A

and Calangute, by far the most tourist-populated beaches, are lined with hundreds of beach Golauli

shacks, hotels and restaurants. Further north, and Vagator km Beaches are home to 010 0 miles 6

hippies and the curious folk who wander through to meet them and to dip their toe into Cotorem the melting pot of subcultures and alternative lifestyles that have permeated here. North

of the are the quieter beaches of Morjim, Asvem and Mandrem, which are Valpoi taking their time to develop individual character. Further north still is Arambol, which in recent years has provided respite for party people seeking refuge from the more saturated Nanus Fort SATARI

southern beaches. Anjunem Gontel The high point of the week is Wednesday, where tourists, local foreigners and traders Bamboi Onda

from all over the country converge on the atmospheric Anjuna flea market. Saturday night Porlem is also a big event; the night bazaars of Baga and Arpora attract everyone, making for an

eclectic and therefore quintessentially Goan experience. GOA NORTH Sanquelim

Head away from the hype to the less discovered inland areas of , , er M A H A R A S H T R A v Ri PONDA Bicholim and Satari, and you will find villages, farmland and a scattering of temples that ovi

have retained their authenticity despite all the morphing and mayhem of the coastal areas. Mand NORTH GOA

Whether explored on a motorcycle or just enjoyed from the beach, this region of Goa must Mayem Lake Bicholim be experienced. BICHOLIM Temple Naroa Fort Alorna Saptakoteshwara Old Goa Anconem Karmali (Old Goa) Train Station Thivim Divar

Island

TISWADI

iver Train Station R ( Road) (18km) 4A

y To Margao a r Island

Chorao e

lw Fort v

ai i

Corjuem a

R R s u

17

p Dr Salim Ali a

Bird Sanctuary

Aldona M Chapora

an y HIGHLIGHTS Colvale nk a Panaji

o Moira

K Pomburpao B Pernem

(Panjim) o

Britona a

Train Station g Porvorim

17 Shop at Anjuna flea market (p141 ) till the u Betim

Miramar m

Dargalim or Fort

sun goes down, then head to a happening Reis

Magos M

beach shack Naibaga Arambol Mapusa Grab a cliffside guesthouse with a balcony r Bay Nerul

ive Pernem Aguada Saligao BARDEZ overhanging the ocean at Arambol ( p153) R Coco Beach Miramar Beach Arpora

Vagator Parcem Sample local cuisine and purchase items Siolim Arpora PERNEM

Cabo Raj Niwas from all over at the Saturday night Baga Fort

l Candolim Chapora

Anjuna o

Baga 17 Calangute markets ( p129 ) of Arpora and Baga h Asvem Chopdem

Mandrem Terek

Spend a night on the town with kids from Anjuna Sinquerim Beach Davanvado Baga Beach Candolim Beach Arambol Vagator Morjim Britain and Bombay in Baga ( p134 ) Calangute Beach Chapora Anjuna Beach Sea

Immerse yourself in the surreal world of Morjim Beach Vagator Beach Beach Arabian Asvem Beach Goan parties (p148 ) in Anjuna or Vagator Mandrem Beach Fort To Arambol NORTH GOA Beach Terekhol (580km) Mumbai Querim Querim NORTH GOA A classic Portuguese A classicPortuguese Magos Reis AGUADAPANAJI TOFORT 120 nearby beaches and affords agreatnearby beaches and affords view Nerul & Coco Beach isalotquieter thanotherCoco Beach dedicated toStJerome, distance tothechurchdistance andfort. Magos junctionandthenwalkthe short either direction youcan beletoffattheReis socomingfrom orCalangute, Candolim local boysacting the partsof the Magi. of thethree kingsisrecreated withyoung ourful viceroys. ReisMagos isthesceneof acol- thetombsofcolourful andcontains three The interior of thechurch isimpressively the façade.influence, andacrowntopsoff at thefootof thesteps showsignsof Hindu side thechurch, thelionsportrayedinrelief fromthemaindoors. Out- steps upfromtheroadandfineviewsof the ofsignificant seat learning. later added, andover theyears itbecamea was Aseminary shortly after thefortitself. above it.Thefirst church wasbuiltin1555, by theimposingblackbastionsthat loom ress wallsismadeallthemore attractive coming uphere fortheexcellentviews. not opentothepublic,butit’sstillworth andconvertedby themilitary intoajail.It’s abandoned andwaseventually importance, in 1813theReisMagos fortgraduallylost by theFrench. After theBritishwithdrawal Aguada inanticipationof apossibleattack the Britishrequisitioned bothitandFort occupied byaforeign armyin1799when of beingcaptured never bytheenemy,itwas and Aguada forts,wasoccupied. dez, withtheexceptionof theReisMagos (1737–39), duringwhich thewholeof Bar- the desperate defence againsttheMarathas trol. Itwasrebuilt in1703,timetoassist of theriver con- cameunderPortuguese fort wasbuiltin1551after thenorthbank narrowest partof theMandovi River. The fort occupies,asitoffers protection atthe preciate of the importance thesite thatthis toap- way tothebeaches. It’snotdifficult lage of ReisMagos worthyof astoponthe Buses run regularly between Betim and runregularly Betim Buses between Only thechurch remains, withitssteep The littlechurch belowthefort- standing ReisMagosAlthough hadthedistinction NORTH GOA Aguada ••Panaji NORTH toFort festival on6January, when thestory fort and

make thesmallvil- Reis Magos Church Magos Reis , 3-/4-person tentinclbreakfast Rs795/1190/1385/1580) 4-person tentinclfullboardRs1300/2200/2900/3600,1-/2-/ another placenearby. maybeabletosuggest a roomhere, staff and turnsoutgoodfood.Ifyoucan’tfind andfishingbert’s alsoorganises trips boat storage spaceandhot-water bathrooms.Al- a great Roomshave placetostay. lotsof prices keep it a tad exclusive.prices keep itatad thehigh national vibetothisplace,though Thereis litatnight. isayoungandinter- vided bytheDanishchef, andthebonfire pointyoucanget.secluded Meals are pro- of thebeach, which sisting of tents on the farend iglooesque Danish-runcampcon- a newlyestablished bastion that stands on the hilltop, although onthe hilltop, although bastion thatstands the French. cupied the fortin1799to protect Goafrom for‘water’). TheBritish oc- is Portuguese also ledthefortto benamedAguada ( watering point forships;portant thespring which meantthatthe fortbecameanim- water fromnaturalsprings onthehillside, ofadvantages thesite wastheabundanceof theheadland. Oneofcutting off thegreat shore toformamoat,entirely atCandolim the river wasonceconnected withthesea- work wascommencedin1612. of bytheDutch, amongothers, attacks and ing thefortcamefromincreasing threat north andsouth.Themotivationfor build- withuninterruptedwatch thesunset, views taken byforce. Thisisavery popularspotto ition, confirmedbythefactthatitwas never (Map p122 ) occupies amagnificentpos- mouth of theMandovi River, Fort Aguada ontheheadlandoverlookingStanding the Aguada Fort ( in therange of accommodationavailable. livelihood. commotion hadanegative impact ontheir an endtothemafter complainingthatthe here; local fishermensuccessfullybrought is thefactthatthere are nowater sports to therelative quietnessof CocoBeach (Panjim). Onethingthathas contributed across thewater toMiramarandPanaji % Behind Nerulchurch, Behind Today themain point of interest isthe The fortcovers theentire headland,and Odyssey Albert’s In recent years, there anincrease hasbeen 9890694138/58; www.goabeachcamp.com;1-/2-/3-/ ( % 0832-2401518; rRs500) is probablythemost www.lonelyplanet.com Bai Tereza BeachCamp àgua is is

h letting anyoneuptothetop. nately, atthetimeof research theyweren’t Immaculate ConceptioninPanaji. Unfortu- moved totheChurch of of the OurLady of StAugustineinOldGoabefore itwas thegreatonce housed bellfromtheChurch middle of thefort,wasbuiltin1864and took thethreat of alongsiege. thearchitectsindicate justhowseriously huge echoing These water chambers tanks. courtyard of thefortare theunderground on thehilltopcanbevisited. Inthemain prison,buttheoldbastion thestate house below thebastiononwaterfront now is onlyafractionof thefort.Thebuildings rounded bydefences, yourealise thatthis when compared withtheoverall area sur- www.lonelyplanet.com about 500moffshore. to take responsibility forlornly for, hassat cess, For thepast coupleof years the Taj Holiday Village andAguada Hermitage. of dominated bythefive-star sand curve isasmall SinquerimBeach peak season. cheap roomshere, especiallyoutsidethe travellers can stillfindsomerelatively independenttour companies, although almost entirely thedomain of the package- beach the immediately belowFort Aguada, are now Sinquerim, and Beach Candolim % CANDOLIM &SINQUERIM pretty not allowedinside. that starts justpastMarbellathat starts guesthouse. there’s 2kmwalkingtrailtothefort asteep best doneintheearlymorning.Otherwise land. Bybicyclethere’s initialclimb, asteep with goodviewsalongthetopof thehead- headland. It’sanenjoyable motorcycleride, andloopsuparoundthe Sinquerim Beach eastfrom4km windingroadthatheads bike along the ormotorcycle take ataxi of Westerners, mostlyon drugcharges. road is ofthe patronsaint sailors. was builtin1643tohonourStLawrence, pies amagnificentviewpoint.TheChurch Nearby, the The A shortwaytotheeast To get toFortAguada youcanridea South of thechurch andattheendof the 4-5.30pm) 0832 /pop8600 agrounded tanker that no-one wants Church ofStLawrence old lighthouse Aguada Jail Aguada canalsobevisited; camerasare new lighthouse , which houses anumber , which houses , which inthe stands of thebastionis , which alsooccu-

(adult/child Rs5/3; River Prin- Vagator toomuch of ascene. toobusyandAnjuna and gute andBaga well asthefew travellers whofindCalan- oldercrowd, as tends toattractaslightly little quieter, withfewer beach shacks,and of runningnorthtoCalangute. It’sa sand Goa andorganised tours. travel agency outof specialisinginflights wide range of carvings andsouvenirs.wide range of carvings provides a touristinformationandsells main road,itchanges moneyatgoodrates, elephants);onthe of because itscarved Complex (often calledtheElephantShop placeisArchana multipurpose A useful travellers cheques of Bank attheState India. have ATMs, andyoucanchange cashand (nearDonaAlcinoResorts) and UTIBank credit cards.HFDC(nearAcronArcade) change moneyandget cashadvanceson andtraveloffices agencies where youcan the village. John’s BoatTours BOAT TRIPS Activities ( to make phonecallsorread email. hotels, traveltaurants, agencies andplaces the north,islinedwithsouvenir shops,res- in thesouthandStAnthony’sChapel Sinquerim between The maindrag,roughly &Information Orientation Tee s a is There DIVING booking agents aroundtown. and snorkelling trips.There are numerous tions (Rs850).John’s also arranges fishing (Rs995)andspiceplanta- branching outwith 4WD tours covering Keralan (Rs4000).John’s houseboat isnow no pay’.There are alsoovernight tripsona trips operate witha policy of ‘nodolphins, backwater mangroves (Rs995).Itsdolphin atourthrough (Rs 395),andalsodoes and boatridestotheAnjunaflea market It hasdolphin-watching trips(Rs795) that ithasmilked forallitsworthsince. plug aBBC andthrough a decentservice, has earneditsgoodreputation byproviding 9pm) % NORTH GOA •• Candolim & Sinquerim GOA ••Candolim&Sinquerim NORTH Candolim Beach is a clean, straight stretch isaclean,straight Beach Candolim There are numerouscurrency exchanges The postoffice isnearthenorth endof 2277007; www.com2goa.com) operating out of where Candolim, you Goa Dive Center Goa Dive

( % 2497450, 9822386050,5620190)

( % isareputable 9822157094; Davidair h 121 4-

NORTH GOA NORTH ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ

NORTH GOA Goa Dive Center in Calangute ( inCalangute Goa Dive Center p128 ). ling trips.Formore informationvisitthe certified courses. Italsoorganises snorkel- can signupforadvancedorbeginner PADI- 122 ( resorts. Afew choices are that you’re at oneof not staying the nearby each other; make sure youletthem know sport operators who openlycompete with There areBeach. acollectionof adventure- and theTaj Holiday Village onSinquerim ride isinfrontof Resort FortAguada Beach glide, jet-ski,dolphin-watch orbanana-boat- WATER SPORTS The placetogoif youare lookingtopara- with Indiantourists, and Hi-Tide, which also Candolim % 4 1 3 2 Beach CANDOLIM &SINQUERIM A RBIN 2479749) NORTH GOA ••Candolim&Sinquerim NORTH S EA 18 17 26 37 Football 44 , Thunderwave, which ispopular AC Field 29 2 41 Shacks Beach 20 Sinquerim 40 To CuckooZenGarden(200m); After Seven(500m);Prem'sBar 22 Beach St Anthony'sChapel(1km); 15 24 & Restaurant(700m); 14 Calangute (1.5km) 35 Market 25 Shacks Beach 31 11 16 4 13 23 19 33 3 32 27 1 28 10 6 Cnoi & Sinquerim & Candolim 36 Aguada 38 34 Fort Aaron Adventures Aaron To ReisMagos(6km); 5 21 39 12 9 42 Panaji (11km) Betim (8km); 30 8 B To Panaji (12km) 7 43 SLEEPING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION INFORMATION UTI BankATM...... State BankofIndia...... Post Office...... HFDC 24HourATM...... Davidair...... Archana Complex...... Per Avel...... Moonlight Bar&Restaurant..... Marbella...... Manuel GuestHouse...... Holiday BeachResort...... (see26) Fort AguadaBeachResort...... English Rose...... (see15) D’Mello’s...... Diorio’s GuestHouse...... Casa SeaShell...... Ave Maria...... (see41) Altrude Villa...... Alexandra TouristCentre...... Aguada Hermitage...... (see19) Thunderwave...... Old Lighhouse...... New Lighthouse...... Jonh's BoatTours...... Goa DiveCentre...... Fort Aguada...... Aguada Jail...... Aaron Adventures...... (see13) rooms. The house andits owners haverooms. Thehouse real the beach, such as the quietbackstreets. options.Look inareaspleasant awayfrom budget traveller inmind,there are afew have really doesn’t the Candolim Though BUDGET Sleeping for.the tourgoes depending onwhat’s includedandhowlong Rs 250and450foradolphin-watching trip, andbetween jet ski,Rs1000forparasailing you canexpecttopayaroundRs 800 fora on Wednesday(Rs350).Pricesfluctuate but returndoes tripstotheAnjunafleamarket Rs 500) Villa Ludovici Tourist Home Tourist Ludovici Villa This isalovely family home withfive 17 17 16 16 15 15 14 14 13 13 12 12 11 11 10 10 23 23 22 22 21 20 20 19 19 18 18 1 1 9 9 8 8 7 7 6 6 5 5 4 4 3 3 226226 1A2 A1 B2 B3 A1 B4 A1 B4 A1 A1 B2 A2 A2 A3 B4 A4 B2 B3 B4 B4 B2 B2 A2 B2 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING DRINKING EATING EATING Tourist TaxiStand...... Sinquerim BusStop...... Acron Arcade...... (see33) Havana...... Peacock Pub...... Teama...... Stone House...... Santa Lucia...... Oriental ThaiRestaurant...... Octopus Gardens...... Inferno...... Himalya Bar&Restaurant...... Cinnabar...... Chocolatti...... Xavier BeachResort...... Villa LudoviciTouristHome...... Tropicano BeachResort...... Thomson Villa...... (see15) Taj HolidayVillage...... Summer VilleBeachResort...... Silver SandsHolidayVillage..... Sea ShellInn...... Pretty PetalGuestHouse...... TRANSPORT TRANSPORT SHOPPING SHOPPING 0.3miles 500m 0 0 www.lonelyplanet.com A RBIN S EA

( % D 2479684; d 41 41 40 40 39 39 38 38 37 37 36 36 35 35 34 34 33 33 32 32 31 31 30 30 29 29 28 28 27 27 25 25 24 24 44 44 43 43 42 42 A2 A1 A2 B3 B3 A2 A2 B3 B3 A2 B3 A2 B3 B2 B2 A2 B3 A1 B3 B3 .com; rRs500) .prettypetalsgoa.com/accom.htm; s/d fromRs500/700) looking the well-maintained gardens. looking thewell-maintained have hotwater andprivate balconiesover- family.Rooms ing andisrunbyahospitable Villa come backyearafter year. perience. Someguestsget they soattached character, which makes foralovely Goanex- www.lonelyplanet.com doing the same. doing thesame. months beworth inadvance, anditmight range traveller. Repeatvisitors often book Sinquerim area isdedicated tothemid- Most of theaccommodationinCandolim- MIDRANGE the more toyou. hospitable theonethatfeels around Rs400.Choose both have roomscompetitively pricedat ant garden. ones, which are wrappedaroundapleas- Flossy Vaz. Her roomsare thedownstairs This spotisrunbythevery hospitable fortable and secure.fortable the gates andthe placefeels entirely com- friendly. There guard posted on isasecurity women who runtheplace are wonderfully are cleanand neat,andthe spectacularly an unpaved road.Itsgroundsandrooms Pretty Petal isabeaconof cleanlinessdown Discounts flowfreely forlong-stayers. a friendlyfamily.Roomsare goodvalue. is anotherdecentoption,andit’s runby Manuel GuestHouse Manuel Tropicano Beach Resort Tropicano BeachResort Pretty Petal GuestHouse Pretty Dioros GuestHouse The will beabletoassistyou. beaches anddon’tassumethatalifeguard jackets. note Alsotake ofwarningsignsat on aboat,checkthatthere are adequate life perienced swimmers. Ifyou’re headingout manyex- have killed but strongundertows vulnerablewho can’tswimare particularly operate. Then it’sbacktobusiness. Those a respectful few days where boatsdon’t so commonthatlittleisdoneotherthan Arabian Sea. capsizingboatsare Infact, as 50touristsdieevery yearinthelovely The beachmightlookcalmbutasmany WARNING

( % Altrude Villa 2489297) Thisisinastrikingwhite build- sitopposite each other,and

( ( % %

( % 2489703) 3090713; diorosgoa@yahoo ( 2489729; rRs300) %

( % 2489732; dRs500) and 2489184; www Thomson Thomson This

without ACRs1200/1000; 2489250; dwith/withoutACRs1320/880; a resort isastretch. a resort have asmallpatio. Despitetheswimming pool,callingthis andbathroom.Some even clean rooms,eachwith a fridge dRs700; beachresortgoa.com; fast Rs850) [email protected]; Candolim-Aguaga Rd;rinclbreak- [email protected]; s/dRs900/1200) [email protected]; one that’s comfortable. one that’scomfortable. like concrete cellssomake sure youchoose rooms (particularlythesingles)canfeel abit makes of gooduse thegrounds.Someof the feel. There restaurant, isapleasant which asidestreetplace off hasanairybeachside s swimming pool. It sometimes feels a tad deserted. swimming pool.Itsometimes feels ataddeserted. are wellsuited toidling. cost Rs600.There are variousareas that whenthey sonable valueoutsideseason, nothing flashbutare andrea- cosyenough arecolours, friendly. Roomsare andstaff accommodate 21rooms,are painted happy option. Theexterior of thebuildings,which Sea ShellInn Sea where new-style people set up for weeks. where upfor weeks. new-style people set breakfast Rs950) Holiday BeachResort SandsHolidayVillage Silver Marbella TOP END downstairs andobligingstaff. range optionwithapopularrestaurant road,thisisagoodmid- Beach Candolim prime locationinthethickof thingson Rs 1600-2850) for theatmosphere thanthefood. Shell Innthatisvery more popularatnight, There isarestaurant atthefrontof theSea charmingly outof placeinthisbuilt-uparea. thatdisplaysanold-stylecharm house andis whitethe outside. Theformerisapleasant Summer Ville BeachResort Summer Ville ming pools: resorts, perhapsonaccountof theirswim- (with varyingdegrees of justification)tobe Shell hotels, andthe .summervillebeachresort.com; dRs900-1800; .summervillebeachresort.com; spotless rooms within comfortable reach ofthebeach. spotless roomswithincomfortable NORTH GOA •• Candolim & Sinquerim GOA ••Candolim&Sinquerim NORTH Per Avel Alexandra Tourist Centre Centre Alexandra Tourist A coupleof long-running optionsare the Xavier’s Beach Resort Xavier’s Some otheroptions,which allclaim ) Arangeofroomsand cottages, withanenticing , anunattractive concrete blockfrom

( % ( % Marbella is anold-style place

( , the best of the affiliated Sea , thebestof Sea theaffiliated % 2479551; [email protected]; d 2479551; [email protected]; 2479074; www.peravelgoa.com; dwith/ 2276131; Candolim-Aguada Rd; d incl 2276131; Candolim-Aguada Rd;dincl ( a % Casa Sea Shell Sea Casa ) ( A pleasant midrange Apleasant s 2489088; www.holiday ( % ( % % ( This very pleasant Thisvery pleasant ) Basic,adequately % 2479489; xavierbeach 2479075; www 2489744; rRs1500; 2489097, 2489230, a

( % s ) Witha 2479879; 2479879; ) Clean

123 NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA oo.com; HNo1/274B, Chapel Lane;mains Rs400; [email protected]; dRs10,000-45,000; in theswimmingpool. strategically placed,andthere isasmallbar chairs andumbrella-bedecked are tables Beach whilestillbeingusable. maintained cottages andthegroundsare immaculately Roomsare establishments. star individual buildings thatcomewithmanymultiple- option withouttheonerousblock-style ities andlocation. Resortisagoodchoice foritsfacil- Beach stretching infinitely north,theFortAguada that overlooks along stretch of beach five-star Taj Hotel, withafoyerandpool tions thatare worthsplashing outon. your eyesopenandfollownose. real Goancuisinewithreal ,keep alone venture into. Ifyou’re upforsome thatforeignerstaurants rarely notice,let restaurants, there are stillsome quiet res- pointwithtourist-orientedtual saturation party goingon. competition onthestreets unlessthere isa the beach shackstend togive waytotheir opposite thepostoffice.though, Atnight road, attheendof Beach Candolim Beach of good selection beach shacksonCandolim dishesandcolddrinks. There’s a seafood theobligatoryWestern breakfasts, serving Down onthebeach are dozensof shacks Eating rooms deliver thecolonialfantasy. theground-floor even though garden suite istheprimechoice,The penthouse somewithmorethough luxurythanothers. six rooms.Allroomsare fullyequipped, fully restored villawithonly Portuguese Hidden downaquietlane,it’sbeauti- 124 passing on thestreet. you canfeel ifyou’re the romanceeven just is sosuperbthat the lighting the evenings, is dwarfed by thebanyantree nexttoit.In wrapped around the smallbuilding,which mosphere issimply gorgeous; are tables Thai restaurant are notcheap, buttheat- Village; mainsRs150-460) .com; rRs8500-24000; Taj HolidayVillage Banyan Tree Banyan Tree There are acoupleof top-endeatingop- isatvir-Despite thefactthatCandolim BeachResort Aguada Fort After Seven After NORTH GOA ••Candolim&Sinquerim NORTH

( % ( % 2297957; aftersevenrestaurant@yah 276201-10, ext 582;Taj276201-10, ext Holiday s

Meals atthis elegant ( % ) Thisisafive-star 5645858; www.tajhotels

( % 5645858; reser h s from ) A mains Rs25-150; Rs 150) .com; such askingprawns(aroundRs850). dishes decadentseafood change!) serves to openanhourearlierjustifythename had (which hasconsequently After Seven stretched toCandolim, itslegaltentacles mains Rs80-140) there’s live music. isveryerite house atmospheric.Sometimes outthefrontofand thesetting thesolidlat- jazzandblues, Music isalwayswell-chosen dishes thrown in. orpasta dom Chinese (fromRs 300)withran- steaks andseafood 7pm) it up arungon thestyle ladder. toboost it’s litupin awaythat seems night make itfeel aworld awayfromthe road. At under umbrellas inagreen patch of garden up to. Theatmosphere lends itclass;tables place hasagreat breakfast menutowake vegetarian optionsdon’tskimponflavour. grilled steaks, lobster andtiger prawns.The specials such naan(flatbread), asstuffed therething toworkthrough; are clay-oven restaurant. Themenuisquite astressful carries theblazingmealacrossopen-air becue menuattractsattention asawaiter casional sizzlerthatisordered fromthebar- The décorhasaflametheme,andtheoc- fires (punvery upatnight much intended). cake (Rs60). if you’re feeling outlandish,tryapieceof fin theovens happentobaking(Rs25)or, isfreetables whatever orderyourself muf- away treats, butifoneof thefew garden home-made chocolates) are take- pleasant aged goodies(cakes, biscuitsand,of course, call toconfirm). 2pm and5pm(Rs1200including dinner; Wednesdaybetween every cooking classes has wonderfulThaidishes.Italso hasThai carpark,theOriental Beach to Candolim leaders inAsian authenticity. Gardenisoneof Candolim’s Cuckoo Zen food,clean and fresh andChinese anese chef, Taiwanese andTaiwanese, staff, Jap- Rs 40-200; Stone House Inferno Oriental Thai Restaurant Thai Oriental Prem’s Bar&Restaurant Prem’s Cuckoo Zen Garden Zen Cuckoo Chocolatti Known as After Eight untilNestlé KnownasAfter Eight h The foodhere isgreat: lotsof grilled 7-11pm)

h ( %

noon-2pm &from6pmSun-Fri) Notaspricey itlooks,this 9822140130; mainsRs50-180) ( h WithitsTaiwanese- Japanese % ( % Mon-Sat) 2479340; [email protected]; 2470090; Fort Aguada Rd;mains 2470090; Fort

( % www.lonelyplanet.com Thefreshly pack- 2489570; www.cuckoozen

( ( % % 5616773; 3951086; 3092809; mains Inferno Next excellent service. interruption toyournewspaperperusalwillbethe canechairs. Theonly outdoor seatingincomfortable midnight) Apopularspotforitsreal coffee andextensive Himalya Bar & Restaurant Bar&Restaurant Himalya Garden Octopus English fare. It’sdownthelanefromTeama. English Rose you backRs200. veal’willset thrownin.A‘Zurich-style style concoctions h www.lonelyplanet.com ( of under theweight competition. the pubsthatwere intownhave down closed drinkingvenues,ling aslate-night mostof of thefactthat restaurants are nowdoub- drinking venue withfoodonthe side. Inlight open late andbecomespredominantly a stays restaurantAlmost every inCandolim Drinking Cinnabar Santa Lucia carpark. Beach Candolim he street andwatch passers-by. It’snearthe bytheside ofthing todoisgrabatable t ant rooftop eating area, the butatnight back feel of abeach shack.There’s apleas- This isaproperrestaurant withthelaid- Rs 80. parts. Vegetarian fried Vegetarian fried parts. budgetplacestoeatinthese is oneofthemostlow-key Tibetan restaurant (formerlyHueLan’sTibetan Kitchen) English pub’. prietors, theJohnsons, tobe‘Goa’sonly real House. oppositetheStone and-steak house’withattentiveservice, % Teama Still inthegameis Other optionsworthmentioning: of the less fortunate wereof the lessfortunate executed in Panaji andtheir headsmounted on stakes. army officers, were arrested. The luckyoneswere sentenced while15 tothegalleys ordeported, discovered authorities. Atotalof47conspirators, including 17 priestsandseven by thePortuguese officers andothers joined thecause. at thehomeof Pinto familyinCandolim. Graduallythe numberofconspiratorsgrew asarmy Unsuccessful intheir attempts toremove theinjustice,they returned plotting toGoaandstarted atLisbon. Conto andJoseAntonio Gonsalves, topleadtheir case inthecourt travelled toPortugal they were notallowed tooccupythehighestclericalpositions. Twoofthem,Caetano Francisco founders oftheconspiracy were mostlychurchmen, angryattheracialdiscrimination thatmeant In 1787,Candolim wasthesceneoffirstserious attempt The tooverthrow thePortuguese. THE PINTO REVOLT from 6.30pm) Primarily Italian,withsome‘European’ from 6.30pm)Primarily 323090217) The planswere near enoughtocompletion foradate tohave beenfixed whenthe plotwas (

% ( % ( (mainsRs40-100)Laid-backcrowdand % 5643671; AcronArcade; , which isclaimedbyitspro- 2489774; 5625870;www.teamagoa.com) (mainsRs70-200)Apleasant‘seafood- 9822104134; mainsRs130-240; momos (Tibetan dumplings)cost (Tibetan (mains Rs50-80)Thissmall h Peacock Pub 8am-

lers.com; Shop 5-6 Magnum Resorts, Candolim) Resorts, lers.com; Shop5-6Magnum 283 Fort Aguada Rd) 283 Fort and cakes. where youcanindulge inoverpriced coffee art andotherstores aswellaCinnabar, a Sankars bookshop,clothing,jewellery, The buses stopattheT-junctionThe buses atthe orMapusaquerim andCalangute (Rs12). There are Sin- frequent between buses &Around There Getting of shoppingarcadesinthearea. inthenumber Recent years have arise seen boutique furniture andhomeware shops. find heading towardsthefortyou’lleven Aguada Rdthere are plentyof shops; jewellery andothertrinkets. AlongFort clothes,wall-to-wall touristshops selling road)there are Beach ticularly Candolim Along theroadsleadingtobeach (par- Shopping the busystreets ortheclubsof Calangute. the crowdsmove awayfromthebeach to shacks winddownwhenitgets darkand the pumping music.Atothertimesthough, get intopartymodewithdancefloors and Around thefestive thebeach shacks season, Entertainment gets high praise fromreturngets praise high customers. h customers. outnumber alive thanothers; attimesstaff are Somenights various themenights. more than restaurant feel. There is live musicand the gardengive more off of alounge-bar restaurant. Thechairs scattered around NORTH GOA •• Candolim & Sinquerim GOA ••Candolim&Sinquerim NORTH Ashoka Jewellers Ashoka Acron Arcade Havana from 7pm)

( isarecently openedLatino %

( 3952973; [email protected]; % Thisshoppingarcadehas ( 5643671; www.acronarcade.com; % 2489996; www.ashokajewel Thisstore

125 NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA the landscapemore interesting. end,thebeach isalesscrowded and Baga Upatthenorthern bars need. you’llever trinketsand allthetouts,taxis, andbeach restaurants inGoa,glitzyshoppingmalls, is arange of someof places tostay, thebest no denyingthere’s plentygoingon.There roasting touristsandmeandering cows. isdotted with sunbeds,spit- itself Beach a break Calangute toBaga. fromCalangute stretchingand guesthouses almostwithout nut palms,isnowamassof concrete hotels of coco- dunesamonga sea land andsand overcrowded stripof mayheminthestate. least, isthemostoverhyped, overpriced, at season answer toIbizaand,inthehigh ing package-tourist market. ThisisIndia’s ing theepicentre of Goa’srapidlyexpand- of mostpopularbeach inthestate, becom- gute managed andretain toevolve thetitle on toAnjunaandfurtherafield,butCalan- travellers inthe1960sbefore settled moving of wasthefirst sand beach where overland cynical backpacker’s hell.Thisbroadstretch % This isthepackage tourist’sheaven andthe CALANGUTE &BAGA on theroadtoAguada Hermitage. and there’s renting anotherstall outbikes Airport costsRs540. toDabolimof pricesfortrips.Ataxi ‘set’ near Silver SandsHolidayVillage, hasalist 10 to15minutes. every as itpasses to Panaji toflagdownabus it’seasyenough andNerul.Ifyou’re headed utes) via Betim also afew fromPanaji buses (Rs7,20min- southern endof themainroad.There are as central Calangute to the north and even tothe north andeven as central Calangute to findyou. and where locals are genuinely surprised where itfeels more like Indiathan theUK, side streets you’llfind awholeotherworld– not allabouttourists; ifyoulookharddown is isthatCalangute to allthisdevelopment feel further fromthebeach. Theadvantage sprawl, andonthe mainroadsyoucouldn’t The actualtown of isurban Calangute Orientation 126 So, whydopeoplekeep coming?There’s The village, marsh- oncenestledbetween You canhire stand bicyclesnearthetaxi stand, touristtaxi Beach The Candolim South Calangute isn’t yet as developed isn’tyet asdeveloped South Calangute 0832 /pop15,800 NORTH GOA ••Calangute&Baga NORTH books doontheinside. Chapel; thisplacelooksglitzierontheoutsidethanits bookstore.com; new book section with a strong focus on Indian writers. withastrongfocusonIndianwriters. new booksection ofsecond-handbooks,andagood an interesting selection whilebrowsingthroughapileofbooks. There is courtyard andsnacksthatyoucanenjoyintheenclosed basic drinks bookshop caféofftheroadtowardsCandolim.Itserves Vaddo,Gaura Calangute; travellers cheques. international cards. terraceinGoa. from arooftop aboutemailing itaniceplacetoemailyourfriends makes terrace are onlyfivecomputersbutthepleasantrooftop atthisInternetcafé.There whileyousurf food anddrinks UTI Bank ATM Bank ofIndia State ICICI Bank ATM Bank ATMCenturion of a reputable travel agency.services theforeign-exchangeuse andcredit-card It’salsoconvenient andBaga. Calangute to There are plentyof exchange inboth offices MONEY Mubli may findaccessforRs40or50. shop arounddownthealleyways andyou tourists youget, thecheaper rates become; Rs 60perhour. Thefurtherawayfromthe ous Internet cafésinthearea were charging At thetimeof research, manyof thenumer- ACCESSINTERNET Books Rama Oxford Bookstore Literati BOOKSHOPS Information orbyfoot. on wheels take particularcare whether you’re crossing accidentsso It’s anotoriousplacefortraffic river isaptlydubbedthe‘bombshelter’. or shoppingarcade. developers lookingtocraminanotherhotel snapped upMonopoly-stylebyproperty daysisbeing anyspacethese time though; toitssouth.Give it once-quiet Candolim Located attheroundabout. are randombutconsistently high. and farbetween.Prices orderbeyondthat.Literary gemsare few in noparticular some I French and ofEnglish,German, here. Ithasa collection The covered bridge Baga thatcrosses talian, Dutch,Swedish,Spanishand Japanesetitles– (perhrRs60; ( % 2277740; [email protected]; E/1282, 2277740; [email protected]; ( h % ( h ( h 10am-7pm) JustatStAnthony’s 2279544) Youcanbuyandtradebooks ( h 24hr) Near the market; accepts 24hr) Near themarket; % (Calangute) Willchangecashand 24hr) Near the market. 24hr) Nearthe market. (Calangute-Anjuna Rd) (Calangute-Anjuna h 9am tilllate)Youcanorderbasic 09326060647; www.oxford 10am-7pm Thu-Tue) Alovely www.lonelyplanet.com ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ www.lonelyplanet.com

4 6 1 3 2 5 CALANGUTE &BAGA Footpath

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S EA Anjuna 42 43 AC 85 58 Shacks Beach 27 Shacks 47 Beach 376 73 16 52 77 Calangute 50 35 aagt & Baga & Calangute 22 South 37 40 14 Shacks 8 Beach 51

Beach Shacks Beach 83 Golden 61 41 4 86

Rd 55 25 30 84 82 71 49 65 39 34 67 75

Calangute Baga Holiday St Holiday 32 59 64 68 33 81 69 Covered Bridge Church 26 6 63 79 23 38 31

54 28 Rd Tito's 80 24 Church 45 72 29 57 B 48 46 78 56 10 17 62 19 66 70 18

2 Baga Calangute–Baga Rd Calangute–Baga To MaizonsLakeview 5 & SunVillage(50m); St Anthony’s Matrix (200m); Chapel Anjuna (4km) 15 53 Panaji via Betim(15km) 44 To After Seven(500m); 7 River 36 3 Casa Leyla...... Casa Esmeralda...... Casa Baga...... (see81) Bernard's Place...... Arabian Retreat...... Angelo's Inn...... (see40) Angelina BeachResort...... Angela GuestHouse...... Ancora BeachResort...... Alidia BeachCottages...... Ale Pa's...... Pousada Tauma...... Bazaar...... Mackie’s SaturdayNite Infanteria PastryShop...... Handicrafts Market...... Goa DiveCenter...... Boats toAnjunaMarket...... Centre...... Ayurvedic NaturalHealth Atlantis Watersports...... UTI BankATM...... Thomas Cook...... State BankofIndia...... Rama Bookshop...... Post Office...... Paulo Tours&Travels...... Oxford Bookstore...... Mubli...... MGM InternationalTravels...... Literati...... ICICI BankATM...... (see13) Day TripperTours&Travel...... Corner Bookstore...... Centurion BankATM...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION 11 Market Temple Sangolda &Saudades(5.5km); Calangute-Anjuna Rd 13 12 87 74 1 60 20 NORTH GOA ••Calangute&Baga NORTH To Saligao(5km); 21 9 Panaji (15km) To Mapusa 30 29 28 27 EATING 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 (10km) 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0.3miles 500m 0 0 Bazaar (2.5km);Anjuna(5km) C5 A4 B6 B2 B5 B6 B6 B2 C5 B4 B4 B3 B2 A2 B2 A3 C5 C6 B5 B5 B3 B3 A6 B3 B5 B3 B2 A5 C4 C1 Nilaya Hermitage(2km); To ClubCubana(2km); Ingo's SaturdayNite TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Restaurant...... OPM LoungeBar& Kamasutra...... (see 71) Indian Impact...... (see 29) Waves Restaurant...... (see82) Tibetan Kitchen...... Sublime...... Souza Lobo...... Roma Restaurant...... On theRocks...... Midaas Touch...... Little Italy...... Lila Café...... La Fenice...... (see64) Kamasutra...... J&A's...... Italic...... Emma's Kitchen...... Electric Cats...... Electric Cats...... Drop Anchor...... Coffee Garden...... Casandre...... Casa Portuguesa...... Cafe Anand...... (see13) Britto’s...... Anand...... 39 Steps...... White House...... Villa FatimaBeachResort...... Villa Bomfim...... Vila Goesa...... Varma BeachResort...... Stay LongerGuestHouse...... O'Camarao BeachResort.....(see40) NV GuestHouse...... Restaurant...... Nani’s Bar&Rani’s Melissa GuestHouse...... Kerkar Retreat...... (see82) Johnny’s Hotel...... Joanita GuestHouse...... Jay's Place...... Hotel Riverside...... Hotel LindaGoa...... Hotel Hacienda...... Hotel GoldenEye...... Hotel GoanHeritage...... Hotel Conria...... Hotel Clisher...... Hotel BaiaDoSol...... Hallmark Guesthouse...... GTDC CalanguteResidency... Garden CourtResort...... Gabriel’s GuestHouse...... Divine GuestHouse...... Colonia SantaMaria...... Coco Banana...... Cavala SeasideResort...... Main BusStand...... Bus Stand...... Utopia...... Tito’s...... Mambo's...... Kerkar ArtComplex...... Congo Lounge...... Club Goa...... (see 65) D 53 42 64 49 35 79 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 70 69 68 67 66 65 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 52 51 50 48 47 46 45 44 43 41 40 39 38 37 36 34 33 32 31 87 86 85 84 83 82 81 80

127 B4 A6 B6 A5 A1 A1 B4 B3 A6 B1 B3 B3 A6 B4 A4 B1 B2 A4 B4 A6 B1 B3 B4 B2 B4 B1 A4 A6 B3 C5 A6 B1 B2 B1 B2 B6 B4 B2 B2 B4 B2 B2 C5 B3 A6 B2 B3 B3 B4 C5 B4 A6 B2 B2 B6 B2 B2 NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA within Goaandinterstate,aswellflights. road, thisisagoodtravelagencyspecialisingintrips OnthemainCalangute–Candolim .daytrippergoa.com) Art Complex Art isthe A real insouthCalangute asset ART GALLERIES rongs, massages andear-cleaning services. sa- sunglasses, stop peopleselling doesn’t lice often make ashowof patrolling,butthat stricted fromworkingonthebeach andpo- a charge of aroundRs50.Vendors are re- ifit’s busythere’sat theirshack,although beds forfree ifyou’re eatingordrinking theirsun Most beach shackswillletyouuse beds andumbrellas onthiscrowdedstrip. the beach, andthere’s noshortage of sun islazingon The mainactivityinCalangute BEACHES Sights &Activities Travels MGM International Day Tripper TRAVEL AGENCIES GTDC Residency TOURIST INFORMATION can bemadequicklyandeasily. whereand Baga international phonecalls There are manyplacesinbothCalangute TELEPHONE 128 the term is often synonymous with‘shop’. forexhibitions. café isused Sometimes theexquisite space around the that looks more like and gallery. amuseum building converted intoadecadentshop at pening (opposite ). Retreat ( p132 ) andthere are afew roomsatKerkar Wavesalso hasthefantastic Rest-aurant music performance (Rs600).Thecomplex 6.45pm and8.30pm,isaclassicaldance and tural space. Every between Tuesdaynight, cul- nook andcranny,butisalsoawell-used Kerkar, workisdisplayedinevery whose Good for booking long-distancebuses. Good forbooking MGM isthemostestablishedtravelagencyinCalangute. area, .mgmtravel.com) Neartheroundaboutinmarket .com) help out with specific queries or with booking GTDCtours. orwithbooking help outwithspecificqueries canusually Corporation(GTDC), Development the GoaTourist officeassuch,butthestaffatthishotel( tourist p131 ), runby There are afew ‘galleries’ around town, but If you’re interested what’shap- inart,see NORTH GOA ••Calangute&Baga NORTH . Itisprimarilythegalleryof Subodh Sangolda

Tours & Travel Tours &Travel ( % ( % 2276017, 2276509;www.subodhkerkar 2276109; Calangute) There is no 2276109; Calangute)There isno ( p135 old ), aspectacular ( ( % % 2276726; www 2276249; www Kerkar www.daytrippergoa.com) Beach tothefleamarket. Beach (Rs 50oneway),ferrying peoplefromBaga trip aroundtheheadlandtoAnjuna Beach outrigger boatsregularlyised make the (Rs 1000includingmaskandfins). nign sportsperson there isalsosnorkelling time andanoceandive. Forthe more be- (Rs 2700),which includepooltime,class on Tito’s Rd.Itrunsbeginners’ courses tiswatersports.com) .healthandayurveda.com) to the sand. to thesand. ators usuallyhangaroundthesteps leading Calan they’llfindyou.Oper-gute Beach; discount isnotanenormouschallenge. other things.You’llfindthatnegotiatinga water-skiing (Rs700per10minutes), among (Rs 1300),windsurfing400perhour)and 157094; www.goadivecenter.com; Tito’s Rd) treatment is the exclusive It alsoruns yogaclasses. and canarrange pick-upfromyourhotel. you get agamutof tosample treatments, has concocted a2½-hour programmewhere 5.30pm, Monday toSaturday.TheANHC runs free guided tours 10.30amand between health.Thecentre at explainingAyurvedic are extremelystaff andare hospitable good land. Don’tbeshy aboutdroppingin;the ( ural HealthCentre isthe its range of services Askto start. around. impossibletoknowwhereand it’snigh-on treatment centres andaround, inBaga There isanextraordinaryrange of Ayurvedic YOGA &AYURVEDA ( operators, canbearranged water-sports through Beach dolphinsorouttoCoco Boat tripstosee BOAT TRIPS is Oneexample that operateBeach. atBaga There are numerouswater-sport businesses WATER SPORTS which has accommodation andtreatment % % On market day(Wednesday),motor- ofThe mainoffice tofindanoperatoron It’s notdifficult A more upmarket option for Ayurvedic A more upmarket optionforAyurvedic One that has been recommendedOne thathasbeen for Atlantis Watersports Atlantis 2279061; www.pousada-tauma.com; r€215-330; 2479780) Day Tripper inSinquerim. , which offers parasailing

(ANHC; , set on1.4hectares of, set or

Tours &Travel

Goa Dive Center Center Goa Dive ( % % www.lonelyplanet.com 2409275, 2409036;www 9890047272; www.atlan John’s BoatTours Pousada Tauma Ayurvedic Nat- Ayurvedic

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natively, headforJohnny’s Hotel stumbleacrosssomething.Alter-might a noticeboardoutthefrontwhere you up by restaurants around the area, socome at the heartof are things. Food stalls set with liveganised, music andfire-twirling and Anjuna, isspaciousand very well or- reiki courses. which has yogaontherooftop andruns www.lonelyplanet.com Sat Nov-Mar) clothing stalls. usual collectionof handicraft,jewellery and asitisonthe and entertainment food stalls Theemphasis isasmuchthe evening. on andthey’rehard sell held inthecoolof They’re much smaller,there’s notas much from thehypeof theAnjunafleamarket. areathe Baga thatmake change apleasant There are markets twoSaturdaynight in MARKETS Pastry Shop crowded look forsigns.Theever treatments; askaroundor and Ayurvedic places offer yogacourses, reiki, massage pool. rooms are arounditssecluded set packages. Itsexcellent,individually styled Bazaar Ingo’s SaturdayNite As withotherbeach townsinGoa,many excess ofany may express ofeach,butusually onetypepredominates. variousaspects Ifthere isdeficiencyor are knownasthe isderived from With itsrootsinSanskrit,thewordAyurveda AYURVEDA three balance orequilibrium.Fundamental philosophyisthebeliefthatweallpossess toAyurvedic to itsdocumentation. in theVedas some2000yearsago,butitisreputed tohave forcenturiesprior beenpractised is theknowledgeorscienceoflife. medicinewere The principlesofAyurvedic firstdocumented increase in or checkoutwww.ayur.com. want tolearnmore, pickupacopyof diet,exercisesinvolve anAyurvedic andarangeoftreatments aswellregular massages. Ifyou require rathermore dedication–usuallya15-dayorlongercommitment,whichwillgenerally by asteam bath.This isarelaxing waytopassanhour,butgaininganylong-term benefitsmay massages are availableallover Goaandinvolve amassagewithwarmmedicated oil,followed internal purificationisfarlesspopularwithtouriststhantheoilmassage component!Ayurvedic be purifiedthroughtheeliminationoftoxins orally,nasallyandanally.Curiously, Ayurvedic cipally throughtwomethods: and lubrication;adeficiencyhere couldproducepainfullimbsandinfluenza-typeillness. Ayurveda seestheworldashavinganintrinsicorder.Ayurveda fromthis,alossof Illnessisadeparture Ayurvedic treatmentAyurvedic aimstorestore thebalanceof doshas at Baga Arpora, halfwaybetween

( % pitta (humours): dosha, 2277421; UntaWado,Calangute) mayleadtofever, inflammationandinfection. tridoshas, diseasecanresult –anexcessof vata anddiseaseistheresult ofimbalanceamongthem.Eachindividual

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( p131), Ayurveda: Life,Health &Longevity has pitta (internal purification)andmassage. The bodycan (fire); and Sat Nov-Mar) plex and Waves theretreat Restaurant, is an r Rs2000) headland toAnjuna Beach. keep goingforabout 30minutes around the bridge oralongthe beach atlowtide,and River,cross theBaga either viathecovered If you’re feeling energetic, agoodwalkisto WALKING congestion itcauses. traffic totheyouthofit poses thearea andthe who are concernedabouttheculturalthreat source of contention amongmanylocals popularwithvisitors, but isa immensely jewellery andothermiscellany. Ingo’s is enormous amountof clothes,handicrafts, There are outdoorbars, andyoucanfindan with anemptystomach lots. andsample Kerkar Retreat Retreat Kerkar SOUTH CALANGUTE Sleeping Baga. from as Ingo’s.It’swithinwalkingdistance affair. here Theentertainment isnotasedgy ers parted company),isasmallerGoan-run marketurday night (before thetwoorganis- vata Bazaar SaturdayNite Mackie’s kapha mayresult indizzinessanddebility;an NORTH GOA ••Calangute&Baga NORTH doshas, Attached to the Kerkar Attached Art Com- , intheoriginallocationof theSat- ayu (water and earth). Togetherthese (water andearth). Kapha

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129 NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA goa.com; dRs500-1500) Hotel GoldenEye Hotel able roomsandabusylittlerestaurant. Justifiably popularwithwell-maintainedgrounds, comfort- House White a .com; dwith/withoutACRs900/800,bothinclbreakfast; have bathroomfacilities. stove andbasiccookingfacilities.Roomsall the three-storey withafridge, guesthouse, a it. There isakitchenette floorof onevery afterthought totheart–andricher for 130 Coco Banana CENTRAL CALANGUTE hotmail.co.uk; rRs2000) and fridge. and twoentrances.Every roomhasaTV usually large, sittingareas withtwoseparate of Lulu the cat. thetombstone tiles and even ues, mosaic infriendly gardensdecorated withstat- set 10 years ago. Rooms are cottage style and in some ways asliceof Goa thewayitwas Marina is and Walter Lobo,CocoBanana Run byacharismatic Swiss-Goan couple, fortunate tohave enough those there. stayed across theroad. for theirgueststohave accesstothepool away. Theowners of Jay’s have arranged suites. Thebeach isafour-minute walk have adjoiningbathrooms,others have en with shinyimmaculate floors. Somerooms late. Thefive roomsare spaciousandairy, both thebuildingandgroundsare immacu- Holiday St,Jay’s outbecause Placestands already oneof thenicest)onthisstripof Rs 2000-2500; goldeneye.com; dwith/withoutACRs750/1000, rdeluxe GoanHeritage Hotel good forbeach access: either side. it tucked downalanewithbusystreets on 12 roomswithprivate facilities.You’llfind dishes outvery niceGoancuisine. It has Gabriel isitsgardenrestaurant, which Rs 800) Rs 2450/2875; Vaddo; Gaura .goanheritage.com; dstandard/deluxe actually have towalkonsandgethere. actually fenced-off poolandplayequipment. Jay’s Place Gabriel GuestHouse Gabriel Arabian Retreat Other smartchoices thatare particularly ) NORTH GOA ••Calangute&Baga NORTH Roomsatthisgreat-value gem are un- Themainfeature of low-key, lovely a as (

( ( % % % ) Prime choiceforbeachproximity;you ) Prime ( 2277938; fax2277356;rRs1200) 2276478, 2279068;www.cocobanana 2277074, 9890539130;jaysplacegoa@ %

( % ) A family-friendly resort witha resort ) Afamily-friendly Thisisafavourite among ( % One of thenewest (and 2277308, 2277309;info@hotel 2279053; arabianretreat@yahoo

( % 2276761-4, 2276253;www 2279486; fax2276509;r rediffmail.com; rRs800-1000) Ale Pa’s rooms andgreat food. gutebeach.com; dfromRs800; It’s at the busyroundabout. Rs 800) Apleasant oldplacerun byavery pleasantfamily. sancharnet.in; UmtaVaddo; rstandardRs300-350, larger Angelo’s Inn from thebeach. a relaxed quietgarden.It’sonly 100morso resortfortable withlow-key roomsaround beach, thebestof thebunch isthiscom- dation inthewarren of the lanesjustoff Garden Court Resort Court Garden Guesthouse International Conria Hotel Rs 350) agoa.com; steRs1500) friendly budget option,ifthere’s aroomavailable. friendly walktothebeach. locatedashort are perfectly maintained rooms,each withabathroomandhotwater, from mainroadsandbusybeaches. grounds,which aresecluded asafe distance Travellers withchildren mayappreciate the balconies overlooking the poolare thebest. poolandgardens. Roomswith maintained away fromthehullabaloo. Ithasanicely gute, Varma Resortisaniceplace Beach road paralleltothemaininCalan- Clisher is theperfect placetobelazy. open upontoacommunalbalcony,which are available forlonger Therooms stays. value given theyhave hotwater. Discounts home. Thespacious,secure roomsare good Almeida hasthree roomsabove thefamily area, andthetop-storey unithasabalcony. bathroom,bedroomandloungeseparate orbeach aftersleep 10pm’.Unitshave a shutup!Quietgoto ing ‘Touristsplease emblazoned onthewallwithamuralread- offrustrations atthedemise histownare a shortwalkfromthebeach. Itsowner’s apartments are hiddenamongotherhouses twoself-contained own company.These you’re lookingtoenjoythebeach andyour low-key beach-shack restaurant attached. low-key this bigwhitebuilding have abathroom.There’s alsoa andgoodbeachview.Roomsin Rs 250-350).Goodprice Other optionsworthgivingago: Casa Leyla Casa The cheaper spotare optionsinthesame O’Camarao BeachResort O’Camarao Varma BeachResort Almeida Villa Agoodoptionforlong-term stayers, ( ( % % 2276873; rRs700) ( 2276701, 2277479;rRs600)The12well- (

% % ( %

2497261, 98050761480; rRs350)A ( 2282505; rRs300-600) % 2276478, 2279068;www.cocobanan Anothergreat choice if ( % 279358; [email protected];r

2276054; mata_goa@ ( ( www.lonelyplanet.com Oftheaccommo- % %

, which hasafew ( as % 9822689484; r 2276077; www.calan 2276229; camarao@ ) Along the and Hotel Hotel out ACRs1500/800; ersidebaga.com; rRs1300; Midrange goatelcom.com; rRs650) 1st-/2nd-/3rd-flrRs400/500/600) [email protected]; you’re aTito’s junkie. budgetrooms. Goodlocation if 17 cleanbutoverpriced the worldof yogaandreiki. forgetting initiated yourself good base into ontherooftopclasses It’sa intheevening. you buckets onrequest. There are also yoga is nohotwater butJohnny andcowillbring that’spopularwithbackpackers.stay There Johnny’s isasociableandgenuine place to kept proudlytidyby the friendlystaff. to theplace. Thegroundsandtheroomare mosquito netsandthere isageneral airyfeel cony thatsurroundsthebuilding,bedshave their price. Allroomshave access tothebal- and roomsare enormouslyspaciousfor loud area. Thebuildingisshaded by trees, aged tocreate aquietplaceinanotherwise mark isagreat-value choice thathasman- Hallmark Guesthouse Budget CALANGUTE TOBAGA www.lonelyplanet.com Hotel Riverside Hotel Ancora BeachResort establishment withsixbasicrooms. Angela GuestHouse Stay LongerGuestHouse bathroom. roomhasasmallveranda front. Each and and somemarginally larger onesoutthe donca hasfourbasicroomsouttheback Men-laneway off themainroad,Joanita censoredotherwise totourists.Downasmall ofhospitality areal Goanfamily inanarea Here’s anopportunitytoexperiencethe delightful. ther. abalconyroomisperfectly Atnight, Hibiscus restaurant isn’tabadfeature ei- balconies overlooking The northBaga. the river, Hotel Riverside hasrooms with a balcony. are basic, butclean andspacious. Most have area inthecourtyard. Rooms themselves a large building.There eating isa pleasant cheresque stairs, makes itawarmplace for design of thebuilding,withwandering Es- Joanita GuestHouse Johnny’s Hotel Other basicplacestohangyourhat: Hotel Hacienda Hotel

( % a ( ( % (Rs 200-400) A true backpackers’ (Rs 200-400)Atruebackpackers’ 22773377, 2276186;www.hotelriv ( % )

% The slightly interesting Theslightly ( 2277348, 2276511;rwith/with- % a

2277458, 2094795;johnnys ( ( 2276096, 2279787;ancora@ % % 2275030; rRs500) ) Nicelylocated on 2277166; rRs300-350) 2276969; rRs600)Has Hall-

s arnet.in; 40/7SauntoVaddo, Baga;dinclbreakfast Rs6000; Top End over Christmas. seekers zone.RoomsfillupwithIndianparty the party place,butgreat ifyouwanttobein favourite everyone’s rRs600-900)Not [email protected]; priced rooms. The Indian Impact restaurant isattached. rooms. TheIndianImpact priced .com.co.in; rwith/withoutACRs950/750; restaurant-pub that serves sugary sherbet drinks. sugarysherbet drinks. restaurant-pub thatserves .com; dRs1500)Goodmidrangeoptionwithapopular and thestonefloors addclass. and fittingshave imported fromBali, been to batheunderthesunandstars. Furniture pool, where open-airbathroomsallowyou inthefourroomsaround the ing asthose notnearlyasthrill- though elegant affairs, Thewhite porcelainbathroomsareSea. tive mosquitonets,andfacetheArabian building have four-poster bedsanddecora- loads of charm. The11roomsinthemain gardens and a restaurant onsite. rooms scattered haspleasant through Goesa it’s own gardenpathleading toit.Vila area 200mor sobackfromthe beach, with Casa Baga Casa Angelina BeachResort Bernard’s Place to payRs4500 5500over Christmas. You’dhaveing inseafood. tobecommitted tionary. There isanice restaurant specialis- scheme makes theplacelooklike confec- four fresh buildings.The interesting colour pool,hasroomsin with atrippymosaic tion witheasybeach access. placed ifyouwanttobeintheheartof ac- of them,buttheGTDCResidencyiswell Casa Esmeralda Casa lowing shoulddothetrick: fim.com; rRs1950-2450; Colonia Santa MariaColonia Santa afresh feeling. roomsgiveand theneatcomfortable near itislovely. Thewhitewashed buildings ocean viewfromthepool,buteating area anunpretentiousto maintain air. There isno is anupmarket thatmanages establishment .com; rRs1670-2700) Rs 800/500; .com; CobraVaddo, BagaBeach;dRs2750; GTDC Residency GTDC Residency Colonia SantaMaria Vila Goesa Vila If you can’t find a place to stay, thefol- If youcan’tfindaplacetostay, Villa Bomfim Villa ) Abrand-newworld-classhotel with NORTH GOA ••Calangute&Baga NORTH

a ( %

) It’sgetting astired astherest ( 2276957, 22892903/31;casabaga@sanch ( %

( ( % % % Vila Goesa is set in aquiet isset VilaGoesa

2277535, 2281120;www.vilagoesa 2276712; bernardsplace@hotmail 2277194; san_enterprise@yahoo ( 2279384, 2281069;www.villabom % s ( % ( 2276109; dwith/withoutAC ) % This pleasant place, Thispleasant 2279145, 2279268; 2276107; www.csmgoa a as ) Well- )

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131 NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA Vaddo; rwithACRs1500,without800-1000; www.villafatima.com; BagaRd,CalanguteBaga,Saunta mail.com; r/steRs800/2500) .com; rRs2500; .net.in; s/dRs700/1200) your closest friends. your closest host40ofbalcony thatcouldcomfortably arooftoptop of acast-ironspiralstaircase, The suite hasanoceanviewand,at the open-airrestaurant.cluding thepleasant amid theroomsforenjoyingadrink,in- ager’s backyard.There are areas several to it,youhave theman- towalkthrough Toget farawayfromeverything. pleasantly place that’sintheheartof butfeels Baga .cavala.com; swithoutACRs600,d850-2000; Cavala Seaside Resort Seaside Cavala BAGA 132 Divine GuestHouse NORTH OF BAGARIVER cated close to theactionatBritto’s. cated close Aquamarine, onthe premises. It’snicelylo- over River. the Baga There’s alsoarestaurant, are overpriced, buttheyhave view apleasant the pool. ifyoucangetant enough oneoverlooking in afairlycharacterless building,butpleas- vibe. has somemidrange roomswithabudget is apopularbackpacker choice,it though inthesuburbs. This at yourfriends’house back –thesortof toswimin poolyouused courtyard, andasmallcleanpool outthe den. There inthe isabasicbarandpooltable ofstatues crocodilesandturtlesinthegar- with An unabashedlyquietplacetostay, keep comingback. down attherestaurant isonereason people vary instyleandcharacter. Theatmosphere the roomswere builtatdifferent timesthey lic, which hasalaid-back partyvibe. As Repub- Banana across theroadatCavala’s tiles, andthere are poolandsuite rooms corridorsLong high have black-and-white growing over butthewindows. everything English manor–stylebrick,withgreenery rave aboutit.Theoutsideof theresort is This isaprimechoice, andrepeat visitors [email protected]; rRs2500) [email protected]; Hotel LindaGoa Hotel Villa FatimaVilla Beach Resort Hotel BaiaDoSol Hotel Alidia BeachCottages NORTH GOA ••Calangute&Baga NORTH s )

Fairly characterless rooms

(

( % ( % % This righteously named This righteously

( 5623550; divinehome@satyam % 2276066; www.hotellindagoa

2276084, restaurant 3375482; 2276084, restaurant 3375482; Alidia is a pleasant Alidiaisapleasant ( % This place’s rooms Thisplace’srooms 2276090, 2277587;www

( % 2276835; alidia@rediff 2277418, 2497103; as as ) )

mains Rs160-220) with themorning paper. Theatmosphere is breakfast downbest (Rs 130), which goes offers even ian establishment afullEnglish thenticity onoffer here. Ital- Thisadaptable theau- olive andshowcase oilsandsalamis, Rs 170)are madewith imported cheeses, ato (Rs110to170). Fresh (around pastas offers real espresso (Rs30) andgenuine gel- takes ingredients Coffee Garden seriously, .com; rRs1500; h (it’s the same priceastherooms). (it’s thesame bargain ifyoucanget itforalong-term stay cottage thatisa rooms andaself-contained balcony forlongbreakfasts. There are 16 andguestsenjoylingering onthe the house, ceilingslend characterfamily. Thehigh to river, thisisasoulfulplacerunbyfriendly of Goanlandscape. divine balconiesoverlooking alovely patch the hustleandbustleof Roomshave Baga. Waves Restaurant Restaurant Waves SOUTH CALANGUTE Eating courtyard eatingarea. there’srightness, ahomelyairandnice advising goodbehaviour. Despite itsup- you turnisanotherpassagefromthebible isveryguesthouse proper;everywhere which has somebasicrooms. would betoheadthisnearbyguesthouse, planB you can’tget intoNani&Rani’s, % r Rs8000) of traditionalfare. cuisine’; dishes are creative interpretations ‘art the restaurant asserving describesitself prawn curry(Rs150)bothexemplify why mushroom crepe (Rs180)andtheGoan are afew paintbrushes.Thespinach and ettes andintheglass holdingtheserviettes thecoastersdetail: are ceramicpaint pal- tion of creativity withartisticattention to artist SubodhKerkar, Waves isacelebra- the river. kept buildings.There’s poolnear apleasant situated resort of 140roomsinafew well- polish, Maizonsout thesame isanicely Melissa GuestHouse Melissa Maizons Lakeview Lakeview Maizons Nani &Rani’s Sun Village Coffee Garden Coffee Garden 2276313, 2277014;rRs450) 9am-midnight) Atasteful top-endchoice awayfrom s

( % Thebrainchild of resident An Italian cafeteria AnItalian that )

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Near SunVillage butwith- 52279409; www.desouzahotels.com; 52279409; www.desouzahotels.com; % ( (Nani’s Bar & Rani’s Restaurant; (Nani’s Bar&Rani’s % 9890200840; mainsRs 90-180; ( 2276017; Kerkar Art Complex; Art 2276017; Kerkar

% ( % www.lonelyplanet.com Attheendof the 2279389; www.maizons 2279583; rRs800) If mains Rs90-340; is basked inorangecandlelightandclassicalmusic. is basked and justaroundthecornerfromLittleItaly,thisplace key cultural difference interms of beer. totheEnglishmanwhodiscusses opposed the more discerningEnglishtraveller –as for Rs250)suggest that Emmacaters for andvegetables withgarlicpotatoes served casserole (including beef-and-red-wine full English breakfasts andtraditionalmains onaterrace.but elegantaffair Tablecloths, English patrons,Emma’sisaminimalist of geared Englishestablishments towards rough-and-ready stripof road. on anotherwise an oddlyplacedGoan oasis turbed bytheurban busynessaround.Itis unper- building,seems colonial Portuguese elegant restaurant, ontheveranda set of a .com; mainsaroundRs150; .com; mainsRs80-250) research a swimming pool was under construction here. research aswimmingpoolwasunderconstruction foodgetsmixed reviews.entirely Atthetimeof vegetarian A grand,ifslightlytacky,buildingjustoffHoliday St.The 136/1 Guaravaddo,SouthCalangute;mainsRs 150-350) classy – and pricey. classy –and pricey. creasing popularity hasmadeit increasingly the option of dining on thebeach. Itsin- have andyoueven faces thesea, It pleasantly onthebeacha leader andgets goodreports. attentive people. Fenice upstairs inLa bythesame is served balcony orsimmerinthegarden.Dinner out:youcanplay chesswell thought onthe www.lonelyplanet.com Casandre CENTRAL CALANGUTE Roma Restaurant Little Italy chefsItalian are vyingforyourpatronage: here, inallitsoversized glory. Goa, thismothershipof primarycolours is mystery of theadvertisements allover the Worth mentioningifonlytoexplainthe place popular withmeaty English tourists. .com; mainsRs150-250) It’s opposite Hotel GoldenEye. shack foodtoforeign anddomestictourists. beach- fast, lunch anddinner,serves to eatnearthebeach. It’sopenforbreak- Nirvana Souza Lobo Rock Café Emma’s Kitchen Emma’s Kitchen Two Italian restaurantsTwo Italian withbonafide Midaas Touch Midaas

(Golden BeachRd;mainsRs100-150)

( (mains Rs40-150) %

(Steak House;mains Rs80-250)

h 3953597; www.littleitaly-india.com; ( % ( ( 8.30am-3pm, 6.30-11pm)More low- SouzaLobo issomething of % ( % % 2766463, 281234;www.souzalobo Thelatest onthelist 9822950869, 9226415992; 2282808/9; www.midaastouch 9890392073; emmajgoa@yahoo Thisisaniceplace h 11.30am-midnight) Ameaty This 10.30pm) muesli with yoghurt and nuts (Rs 60). muesli withyoghurt try thewholesome pastry temptations, sweet ing something lighterthan thefreshly made bakery.in theon-site German Ifyou’re want- ing tothem all.Deliciouspastries are baked and purple cushionsarewhite curtains invit- and foreign touristsrub shoulders here; the ant placestowhile awaytime. Localhippies River,the Baga thisisoneof themostpleas- [email protected]; mainsRs80-150; [email protected]; Lila Café BAGA Anand artery, get thesurfandturf(Rs250). (Rs220).Ifyoureallysalad wanttopackan and peppersteak and withjacket potatoes food such (Rs130to160) asjacket potatoes fumes.There oftraffic isaselection hearty It’s inanoddlocation,heavily in doused fresh water. people whocreate it.Saladsare washedin earthy andzestyastheatmosphere andthe avocado-stuffed prawns(Rs140)are as that’s eclecticandreasonably priced;the atmosphere onoffer, thisplacehasamenu take agreat dealof prideinthefoodand outdoors. when thechefs cookupastorminthegreat eating area comestolife onbalmynights ered a RoyalFoodsspeciality.Theoutdoor thing withchicken initcouldbeconsid- Infactalmostany- at anamazingspeed. chickentasty biryani(Rs35)ischurned out food hasanimpressively the turnover: high blended before youreyes,andtheother chicken dishes.Thefresh juices(Rs30) are ofand aselection andvarious sandwiches barbecue,ajuicebar, bakery, aLebanese and farmore interesting food.There isa joint, butamore interesting atmosphere andcleanliness ofthe efficiency afast-food This popularplaceisafoodcourtthathas Café Anand Café try thefollowing: lentil-flour pancake) andsomechai. lentil-flour pancake) out authenticIndianstaples;dropinforadosa (paper-thin churns attheroundabout.This localfavourite good prices that is always brimming withpatrons. that isalwaysbrimming barbershop attheroundabout,thisisapopular localchoice Rs 60-150; Tibetan Kitchen Royal Foods If youwantsomerespite fromthecrowds, (mains Rs15-35; NORTH GOA ••Calangute&Baga NORTH Runbyafunkybunch of guyswho

h ( ( % % 9am-6pm) 2279843; www.lilacafegoa.com; mains 2279616; mainsRs15-40)Behindthe (mains Rs30-100; ( % h Sittingonthebanks of 2275744, 9326137750;chung 6am-11pm) Goodfoodand h h 9am-1pm &5- 7.30am-10pm) 133

NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA Rd; mainsrRs40-120) Calangute. naan. There’sthe cheese anotherbranch in youhave,whatever else make sure youtry touch. Thesizzlers are recommended, and facing downintotherestaurant are anice being uppity.Thebarchairs onthestreet pared andtheatmosphere islovely without multicuisine menuisextremely wellpre- of budgets onthe andtastes. Anyselection 134 Casa Portuguesa Casa Kamasutra the extensive upRs750. winelistgoright beans ontoast(Rs60).Bottlesof wineon chocolate (Rs60)orperhaps baked mousse ings atoddhours byalpine willbesatisfied to freshly baked pastriesandcakes. Crav- of options,from Goancurriesandpasta that itsmenucovers thewholespectrum lively reputation andpartlyduetothefact day. Britto’spopularityispartlyduetoits the thewaythrough andbusyright season, to3amduringpeak of through dawnright institutionthat’sopenfrom thecrack Baga ter costs Rs 895; entertainment nightsare hitandmiss. ter costsRs895;entertainment J&A’sgets mixed reviews. Theseafoodplat- and upmarket elegant sideoftheBagaRiver, Rs 265-895)Onthenorth J&A’s around –isClubGoa. harem. Onitsroof –andsometimesall and isdecorated inthestyleof anArabian placeforsomeauthenticfood, a pleasant more permanentshack-style restaurants. It’s laterite atmosphere isalso,well,sublime. there are Thecandlelit won’t disappoint. are slim forvegetarians, butthefew choices various influencestothemenu.Pickings andbringshis in theUSAandGermany, exotic cuisines;itsIndianchef hasworked Europeanandmoreteam, Sublimefuses its name. Runbyacreative Indian-English sideofBaga thebridge, Sublimelives upto mains Rs60-200; a better placetotry pleasant garden alongsideanoldcolonial villacouldn’tbe h lounge. It sometimes turns into more of a party after 9pm. after lounge. Itsometimesturns intomore ofaparty inadimlylit tikka lustylobster andtantric has disheslike itselfasexyplace tobe;it istryingtomake Kamasutra Goan dessert made fromegg yolkand coconut). Goan dessert Electric Cats Electric Sublime Drop Anchor Other optionsworthtryinginthe area: Britto’s Britto’s 7-11pm Tue-Sun) Thefood getsmixed but the reviews NORTH GOA ••Calangute&Baga NORTH ( % 9823139488; H No 560; Baga River; mains 9823139488; HNo560;BagaRiver;

( ( % ( % %

h 2277331; BagaBeach;mainsRs50-200) ( ( 9890517969, 980517565, 980141879; % 3953610; mainsRs200-295) ( % bebinca % from 6pm)Asthename implies, 9371005456) A goodchoice forarange 3958156; SantaVada BagaBeach 2277024; mains Rs60-200; (richly layered pancake-like layered pancake-like (richly This isoneof the Onthe A place foradrink. and more like alounge bar,thisisapleasant for somewhere that’slesslike anightclub classic), willsetyoubackRs195. The classicspaghettibolognaise(whichis,admittedly, chain Italianrestaurant. Cleanandclassy,butnotcheap. pens ornotcanbehitandmiss. atmosphere out;whetherithap- foranight spirits Rs40; spirits to them. single menpay upto Rs800to gainaccess ets; single womenstillpay nothing,but entryprice skyrock- ing theparty season it boasts an‘Ibiza-stylediscotheque’. Dur- until around2am. Inadditiontoitsfood, and really cranks upafter that,sometimes in Goa’.Tito’s gets goingatdinnertime tourists, Tito’s issynonymouswith‘party centre of nightlife inCalangute. ForIndian there are tostay Tito’s andClub Cubana. The clubsthathave proven thattheyare changes, bumpsandgrindsitswayalong. leaflets thrustatyouasthescene chops, you’ll barely beable tomove forallthe during season what’s happeningthough; ishitandmiss. It’seasytofindout night or fallingbythewayside. Andagoodparty kids ontheblockeitherrisingto acclaim fall inandoutof favour, withthenewer The scenechanges clubs quicklythough: more byplayingmusiceven passes loudly. advertising theparties,andcompetition truckstrawlthestreetsparties. Atnight, the tochase and DelhipourintoCalangute festive youngpeoplefromMumbai season, days.Aroundthe forclubbers these a base areaThe Calangute-Baga issomethingof Entertainment Indian Impact Drinking Italic 39 Steps after 9pmorso. from afamilyrestaurant toalounge bar sometimes successfulinitsbidtochange woman/man/couple Rs free/300/500) recommended. At entrance to Colonia Santa Maria. recommended. AtentrancetoColoniaSantaMaria. andthesteaks havebeen fromthisoldfavourite, expect withalltheflavouryou (Rs130)ispacked chicken tandoori ofIndianfood.The back atmosphere andgoodselection OPM LoungeBarandRestaurant OPM Kamasutra Kamasutra Tito’s ( %

(mains Rs 50-180) Recommended foritslaid- (mainsRs50-180)Recommended 2277672; mainsRs80-240)Arecently opened ( % h 2279895, 2275028;www.titosgoa.com;

(cocktails Rs80-140) till late) ( % 2277194) Has uptheperfect set www.lonelyplanet.com Ifyou’re looking Thisistheepi-

This placeis

(beers Rs60, the cover change canbearoundRs1500. goingonbelow.Atpeakseason, the noise to impervious a goldenBuddha,seemingly beach. Thewholeplaceispresided over by chairs are scattered allthewaydownto afew toBali times;woodenloungehas been Holiday St.Onesuspectsthatitsdesigner is almostattheendof imaginatively named h holiday giveaways. a carnivalof international DJs,dancers and party gets goingat8pmandkeeps goingin thefestivethumping vibe. the Over season, toTito’s,and attached Mambo’s hasaless View Resort) St; www.lonelyplanet.com .clubcubana.net; woman/manRs500/650; drinks. drinks. enter free. Theentryfees includeunlimited women ispopularbecause Wednesday night ming pool.Every hasadifferent night theme. tiered balconies,lounge chairs andaswim- the sky’.Thelayoutisquite decadent,with and henceisreferred in toasthe‘nightclub atthetopof nightclub multilevel AporaHill, if notallof Goa. Club Cubanaisanopen-air This isthemosthappeningplacein thearea, craziness. gree of classoften missing fromtheTito’s ade- tomaintain has madeacleareffort A strongrivaltoTito’s, CongoLounge tricky to find, particularly at night). tricky tofind, particularly atnight). Westend can organise pick-up (itcan be gimmick, referring asajungleparty. to itself itsremotethis club uses destination asits theradar bythelikesoff of ClubCubana, Further outof townandsomewhat bumped Tito’s. tion of itsalready neighbour, established tell whether itcanwithstand thecompeti- backfromtheroad. Time set taurant will area atthefrontandafullyfledged res- This isarestaurant-nightclub withalounge theground. off working hardtoget itself the timeof research, OntheRockswas water’ It’sopposite nightclub. SunVillage. Matrix, asan‘under- which advertises itself is andCalangute to Baga Cubana butcloser h Mambo’s On theRocks Congo Lounge Matrix Utopia Club Cubana Club Westend 10pm-4am) from 9pm)

( ( Notnearlyaspopular asClub % %

Closer towardsthebeach Closer ( % 9890291417, 9850963929; Maizons Lake Lake 9890291417, 9850963929; Maizons In south Calangute, thisplace InsouthCalangute, 2282904; www.utopia.goa.com; Holiday

(Eiverra; ( ( %

% 2279895; admissionfromRs200; ( % 3954400, 3954411,2277878) 9823232910, 9823539000;www 2276957, 40/7SauntoVaddo) % 5629141; h h 9.30pm-5am) from 9.30pm) At

Deus Chapelinthe townof Sangolda. enjoy acupof coffee. It’sopposite Mae de a more picturesque andinspiring placeto andthere isfor sale, couldn’tbe you see inland tothetown of Sangolda. Everything but alsoforthearchitecture andthedrive not onlyfortheresplendent items onsale, old colonialbuilding,thisisworth thetrip make inan isatripout to Sangolda. Set the greatest shoppingexcursions youcan Sangolda-Saligao; can peruse atrelativecan peruse leisure. prisingly hassle-free placestovisit,andyou market markets These inBaga. canbesur- and anotherhandicrafts central Calangute, thechurchbetween andtheroundaboutin kets. There’s aTibetan handicraftsmarket road, mostlywithwares laidoutonblan- makeshift markets alongCalangute–Baga ing prices. the Anjunafleamarket, soit’sworthcompar- at sortofyou’llsee This isallthesame stuff andminiature paintings. bronzes, carvings reproduction Tibetan crafts, andRajasthani papier-mâché boxes, aswellgenuine and to buy–Kashmiri carpets,embroideriesand ist boom.There range isafantastic of things Kashmiri traders eager tocashinonthetour- have andBaga swampedby Calangute been that willcatch theeyeof mostforeign visitors. and arts-and-craftemporiums. jewellery shops,boutiquefashionstores market. Alsohere are upmarket goldand justsouthof road toCandolim, Calangute’s Gucci andNike have sprouted upalongthe Benetton, Levi’s, shops such asLacoste, the shoppingcapital. Flashy Western-brand of hasgrowntobecome Goa,Calangute asthetouristcapital In linewithitsstatus Shopping Calangute, although a few although goonto Baga. Calangute, or endat themarket start in Most buses &Away There Getting ethnic artefacts’ andisalsoworth avisit. in ‘colonialfurniturebour specialises and in three minutes. toteach youmagic and theownerpromises allsortsofIt sells tricks,propsandillusions, young atheart)thisisanabsorbing place. Saudades Magic Shop Magic There are twopermanentbutrather it’sprobablyHowever, thesmall-timestalls Sangolda NORTH GOA ••Calangute&Baga NORTH

(Sangolda-Saligao) (

% h (Baga Rd) 2409310; [email protected]; 10.15am-7pm Mon-Sat) Forkids(andthe Sangolda’sneigh- Oneof

135 NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA Rd) taxis. The sandy area Thesandy taxis. leadingtothecovered area, which gets congested and withbuses roadandnearthemarket Calangute–Baga road nearBritto’s. congregate taxis Baga, towardstheendof the the market area where hangout.Upin taxis neartheroundaboutorat tral Calangute, around nearthesteps tothebeach incen- to payRs250adayaroundChristmas.Ask you manage toget oneforRs150.Expect ormore,a week you’re though doingwellif a dayforHondaKineticifyouhire itfor reasonable price. TrytopayaroundRs100 youshouldbeabletobargain a peak season, andif you’rein Calangute, here outsidethe Motorcycle andmopedhire iseasytoarrange Around Getting orClubCubana.Saturday Nite Bazaar Taxis charge aroundRs200togoIngo’s Rs100. taxi toMapusaa motorcycletaxi costsRs50,a There are frequent toMapusa buses (Rs7); Rs 150to200andtakes about30minutes. costs will costaroundRs150,andataxi An autorickshaw fromPanaji toCalangute (Rs 10,40minutes, 10to15minutes). every inPanajiamba busstation whenthey’re full leaveBuses fromtheKad- forCalangute 136 able inCalangute. Mumbai andBangalore; pick-upisavail- toHampi,main operatorforprivate buses Take particular care ridingonthe Paulo Tours&Travels toAnjunawillcostaroundRs200. A taxi has a small office nearthebeach. hasasmalloffice Itisthe 2256479; www.goacom.com/goafoundation; G/8 St Britto’s Apt,Feira2256479; www.goacom.com/goafoundation; G/8StBritto’s Alta) make enquiries atthe make how you can minimiseyour contribution tothem orhowtobecome avolunteer. Youcanalso This istheplacetogoifyou’re wanting tofindoutmore aboutGoa’s environmental problems, that affect thestate. eral NGOsbasedhere thatare chippingawayattheeconomic,socialand environmentalissues Mapusa isagoodbaseifyou’re after informationaboutthewiderissuesofGoa;there are sev- INVOLVED:GETTING GOA’S SERIOUS SIDE Rd) Centre hasan interesting ofresources collection that you canasktoaccess. that travellers provide feedback onconsumerissues thataffect them. The Goa DescResource ment. Their latest isGoaCan, project aconsumer-rights initiative forwhichtheyare requesting lobby groupthatworks onhuman-rightsissuesincluding women’srightsandtourismdevelop- NORTH GOA ••Mapusa NORTH For more information aboutthe workof ElShaddai inhelping Goa’s children, see p138 . The Goa’s leading conservation andenvironmentgroup, theprolific Goa’s leadingconservation , whichstocks manyGoaFoundation publications. Goa DescResource Centre

( Other India Bookstore % 2281274; GoldenBeach

( % 0832-2252660; www.goadesc.org; 11 Liberty Apt,Feira0832-2252660; www.goadesc.org; Alta) 11Liberty ( % 2263306; www.otherindiabookstore.com; Mapusa Clinic Mapusa 2263306; www.otherindiabookstore.com; of ambulances. Rd; to Mapusa Residency. Residency. to Mapusa door more technical slantthantheGTDC;immediatelynext Gardens. Municipal Mapusa Residency Mapusa Clinic Mapusa ICICI BankATM ofTourism Directorate BankATMCorporate Bank ofIndiaATM aroundtown. phone offices fromanyofbe sent thenumerousprivate Phone callscanbemadeandfaxes can Information ing in,beattentive toone-waystreets. where togoonfoot.Ifyou’re youneed driv- jump offthebusandget pretty much any- foryouto errands. It’salsosmallenough forsuppliesand beaches andagoodbase do, butit’sanicebustlingbreak fromthe north Goa. There’s or notmuch tosee ( Mapusa % MAPUSA for signs. shops assuch, justaskaroundandlook per day)inthemarket area –there are no inexperienced riders cometogrief. isanotherplacewherebridge atBaga many this GTDC-runhotel( opposite information. ) fortourist police station off the Mapusa–Anjuna road. police stationofftheMapusa–Anjuna to Pink Pantha. Bicycles canalsobehired (aroundRs40 h 0832 /pop40,100 24hr) Awell-runmedicalfacilitywithasmallfleet , map is accessedfromMapusa ClinicRd. ( ( % h -sa) isthelargest-sa) townin ( ( 2263343, 2263346; Mapusa Clinic 2263343, 2263346;Mapusa Goa Foundation h 24hr) Downthelaneopposite % ( h ( 24hr) At the north endofthe 24hr) Atthenorth 2262794, 2262694)Headto % 24hr) Immediately next door 24hr) Immediatelynext www.lonelyplanet.com 2262390) Foraslightly ( % is alocal 0832- credit-card cashadvances. This busyagentisreliable forcurrency exchangeand social andenvironmentalissuesinGoa. iswell-organisedandthere isastrongfocuson collection including manypublicationsoftheGoaFoundation.The ofnonfiction, ithasasolidcollection bookshop inMapusa, ClinicRd)Hailedasthebest diabookstore.com; Mapusa checks. Other India Bookstore IndiaBookstore Other www.lonelyplanet.com since, Founded in1594andrebuilt times several Sights &Activities cafés; downalaneoppositethepolicestation. Web Crawler BankofIndia State Pink Pantha Travels number of worshippers began togather replaced by asilver idoland anincreasing stood here. InApril 1843,thepicture was of Hanuman atthefireworks shop that once placed apicture devotees Rama Portuguese, After destroyed bythe temples hadbeen key god Hanuman was covertly worshipped. built inthe1840s atasite where themon- in Goa. and Christianitycoexist best examplesof thewayinwhich Hinduism by bothHindusand Christians–oneof the church’s annualfeast dayiscelebrated here sacred. Thusonthe16thdayafter the Easter, ple, which theHinducommunitystillholds onthesite ofPortuguese anoldHindutem- than foritsarchitecture. Itwasbuiltbythe ome’s) isfamousmore foritsannualfestival Chapora (9km) To Anjuna(7km); Fort Aguada(12km) To Calangute(7km); 1 2 MAPUSA ὈὈ ὈὈ The smallbutattractive 5 17 To Panaji(13km) 19 Church ofOurLadyMiracles 12

National Hwy 17 (NH17) 6 A (per hr Rs 20) One of several cheapInternet (perhrRs20)Oneofseveral 10 24 Municipal Gardens 13 25 Willexchangecashandtravellers ( 14

21 Coscar Corner Coscar % ὈὈ ( 1 18 % 20 23 11 250352, 252816;fax263180) 2263306; www.otherin 9 Maruti temple Maruti 2 16 22

To ElShaddai(1km);

Train Station(12km) Thivim (MapusaRd) Feira BC

Bai (StJer-

xa Mapusa of OurLady

of Miracles R To Church d 8 15 was was (300m) 4 7 3 Maruti Temple...... Web Crawler...... State BankofIndia...... Police Station...... Pink PanthaTravels...... Other IndiaBookstore...... Mapusa Clinic...... Main PostOffice...... ICICI Bank(ATM)...... Goa Foundation...... Goa DescResourceCentre... Directorate ofTourism.....(see17) Corporate BankATM...... Bank ofIndiaATM...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION a [email protected]; dwith/withoutAC Rs850/590; the followingoptionsshould dothetrick. are respite intransitorneed fromthecoast, towns there’s littlereason butifyou tostay, the better choices onoffer atnearbybeach nonearethough particularlyspecial.Given There inMapusa, are placestostay several Sleeping of thetemple are theworkof local artisans. atthedoorway place. Theintricate carvings the shop,andtemple wasbuiltin its Mapusa gathered fundstoacquire enough here. Eventually, thebusinesscommunityof souvenirs andtextiles. produce, andyoucanalsofind antiques, for clothingand you’ll findlocalshaggling different vibetothe Anjunamarket; here over Goa(andinterstate) with anentirely that attractsvendors andshoppers from all gets goingonFriday.It’saraucousaffair location goes. livescertainly uptothattitleasfarits onbeingthe besthotel intown.Ititself the quaintattitude of aplacethat prides cilities befittinga midrange hotel, butwith without AC Rs 750/540,ste1050; is agood option. this thepeak season, accommodation. Over functional mouldyouexpect fromGTDC indifferent and roomsare inthebland but Hotel Satyaheera Hotel The Mapusa Residency Residency Mapusa ) Hotel Satyaheera has therange Hotel Satyaheera of fa- Mapusa

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% ( % Taxi &AutorickshawStand.. Kadamba BusStand...... Market...... Pub...... Bertsy Bar&Restaurant..... Tequila Restaurant...... (see16) Hotel Vrundavan...... Hotel Ruchira...... (see14) Heera Snacks&IceCream.. Golden Oven...... Mapusa Residency...... Hotel Vilena...... Hotel Suhas...... Hotel Satyaheera...... DRINKING EATING TRANSPORT SHOPPING SLEEPING

2262849, 2262949,2263379; ( 2262794, 2262694;dwith/ h 200m 0.1miles 0 0 8am-6.30pm) a D ) Service is Service really 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 25 24 23 22

137 A2 A1 A2 A2 A2 B1 B1 A1 A2 A2 A2 B2 NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA room Rs99/150) near theMunicipalGardens. in townforabreak fromthebeaches. It’s which makes change forapleasant ifyou’re be theonlynon-Indianinrestaurant, authentically localpeople. Youjustmight great placewithauthenticallylocalfoodand you’re waiting for a bus. Bertsy’s isarela-you’re waitingforabus.Bertsy’s for aquietdrinkandsomeprivacy while atmosphere. butaworldawayin throw fromthestation Located attheroundabout,it’sastone’s or icecream sort of inapleasant garden. tr Rs650) .in; Feira BaixaRd;dwith/withoutbathroomRs500/400, a pasta andwatch thebusystreeta pasta below. with abalconywhere or youcanenjoyabeer dusk. Thingsgetbus stands. going ataround phere, headforthearea aroundtheprivate For cheap street eatsandrich street atmos- Eating &Drinking Rd. Baixa but it’sasbudget astheycome. Feira It’soff 138 traveller friendly. endearing marriedcouplewhoare very midnight) Mon-Sat) Hotel Vilena Hotel Heera Snacks&IceCream Pub Bertsy Bar&Restaurant Bertsy Hotel Vrundavan Hotel Hotel Suhas Hotel of India’ssocialproblems. While you’re lounging aroundonGoa’sbeaches,it’seasyto forget thatthestate shares most HOMES FORKIDS support, contact ElShaddai’s head officein Mapusa,opposite contact thefootball grounds.support, are nightshelters inPanaji andMargao. There isalsoahouse inCalangute calledLittleAcorns. homes in Assagao andSaligao. Houseis a homeforgirls. Rainbow Asha Deepand Stepping Stones in Mapusa,Margao andVasco da Gama. tional TrainingCollege wasopenedinNovember 2005.ElShaddaialsohasfeeding programmes day care unitsandanonformalschool vocationaltrainingcollege. The Vidya Voca- Niketan ofvisitorstoGoa,ithasestablished five children’sthe support homes,three night shelters and by thechildpoverty duringatriptoGoa in1996.Withlocalcommunityhelp andwas shocked contribution tothatend. to getGoa’shomelesschildren offthestreets andintoschools,hasmadeanenormous NORTH GOA ••Mapusa NORTH El Shaddai If youare interested offer orwould like involunteering sponsorship yourtime tomeetthekids, HouseandVictory House areYou canvisitthehomes andmeetthechildren. boys’ Shekinah El Shaddaiwasfounded byAnitaEdgarandMatthewKurian. AnitaisanEnglishwomanwho

ThisisasmallAustrian-runplace ( Agoodbudget optionrunbyan % A decentplaceforaquickdrink 2262657; mainsRs30-130; Abitgrimyanddisorganised,

( ( % %

( % 2263115, 2256649;vito@sancharnet

2263115; dmRs70,s/dwithbath- ( % 0832-2266520, 5613286/7;www.childrescue.net; El ShaddaiHouse,Duler,Mapusa) 2253879; mainsRs10-30)

( h ( h 9am-11pm) 8am-noon &4pm- h 10am-9pm Perfect Perfect A of thebusstand. respitewhich isacivilised fromthechaos and shinycomfort,duckintothisbakery, shaw Rs 70 and a taxi around Rs100. shaw Rs70andataxi gute shouldcostaroundRs50,anautorick- dolim andArambol(Rs12,20minutes). gotoChapora,Can- 20 minutes). Otherbuses gute (Rs7,20minutes) andAnjuna(Rs7, leave forPanaji (Rs7,25minutes), Calan- (Rs57,five hours). Belgaum toPune(Rs54,15hours) and run buses Rs 500/700,12hours). There are alsostate- and Bangalore (normal/air-conditioned air-conditioned Rs300/700, 14hours) toMumbai (no forbuses bus station rmal/ operators tickets selling neartheKadamba northern beaches of Goa. There are private Mapusa isthejumping-off pointforthe &Away There Getting fine dining. Mapusa locals(butfew others) consider For aclassierfeed gotoRuchira, which for thered-brick entrance. surprisingly wholesomeontheinside. Look looktooinvitingbutit’s tinted doordoesn’t chance toget awayfrom the cityfumes.Its tively spaciousholeinthewallthatoffers a serving GoanandotherIndiandishes. serving Vilena) A motorcycle taxi toAnjuna orCalan- A motorcycletaxi Every 20to30minutes localexpress buses Golden Oven Tequila Restaurant Hotel Ruchira Hotel Thisisalow-key rooftop restaurant

(

h ( % 9am-6.30pm) 2263869; 5th fl, Hotel Satyaheera) 2263869; 5thfl,HotelSatyaheera)

( % www.lonelyplanet.com 2263115, 2256649;Hotel Forsomeclean works costs aroundRs80. thetrains;anautorickshawminutes) meet forMapusa Localbuses (Rs5,25 Railway. is thenearest ontheKonkan trainstation collection of new books next totheInternetcafé. ofnewbooksnext collection a smallsecond-handbookshop downstairs,andupstairsa from thevillage, it’srarely crowded. Goa, andsinceit’snoteasilyaccessible least isoneof the mostalluringinnorth the area’s reputation fortranceparties. pean ravers oncharter alldrawnby flights, andEuro- just releasedservice frommilitary whoarepartygoers, amixof macho Israelis London. They’ve joinedbyhard-core been health-food emporiainSanFranciscoand wandered farfromtheorganic confinesof ers anditinerantexpatriates whohave search- gentle seers, lunatics,artists,artisans, of defiantex-hippies,overlanders, monks, charm. Anjunahas retainedCalangute, someof its tle of Goa’sfavourite ‘hippybeach’. Unlike flea market, Anjuna haslongheldtheman- Famous GoaforitsWednesday throughout % ANJUNA www.lonelyplanet.com worth goingto asmaller town where they Internet for anextended period, itmaybe to Rs50 for anhour. the touse Ifyouneed Most Internet caféscharge Rs40 between ACCESSINTERNET GuestHouse Manali orhotels.taurants scattered around;mostare attached tores- There are bookshops varioussecond-hand BOOKSHOPS Information end of thebeach. to thesouth,which alsomarksthesouthern the fleamarket area, acouple of kilometres venience stores andsometravel agents; and lage, where con- you’llfindthepostoffice, down tothebeach; thebackpartof thevil- wherecrossroads andbusstand paths lead There are three distinctareas: themain the landbehindbeach isstillfarmland. Anjuna isquite spread outandmuch of Orientation Thivim, about12kmnortheastof town, The beach itself –atthesouthernend The beach itself There’s aweirdandwonderfulcollection 0832 ( % 2274421, 2273477)There’s hr Rs 50) Next toParadisehr Rs50)Next GuestHouse. 2274347, [email protected]; Internetaccessper to access your property. to accessyourproperty. cheaper. Here, youhavetopayRs170anytime you want ity foryourvaluables,butthesafe atyourhotelwillbe There’s alsoa‘safeVisa andMasterCard. custody’facil- 9.30am-noonSat)Givescashadvanceson Mon-Wed &Fri, recharge yourphonecard. good Internetspeed(perhrRs40).Alsoadecentplaceto [email protected]) Acoupleofcomputerswith the mostcomputers. Rs 40; wireless Internetfacilityforlaptopusers. post office. this hotelhasfacilitiesbutwillchargefortheservice. Anjuna BeachRd)Ifyouneedtogetcashoutof amachine, Rs 40) Connexions Travels including thefollowing: confirmed andchange foreign currency, make onwardtravel bookings,get flights There are numeroustravel agencies thatcan TRAVEL AGENCIES to theAnjunapostoffice. You canhave poste restante yourmailsent POST Anjuna Villa Bank ofBaroda est are inMapusa orCalangute. longer thanbanks. andMasterCard.Visa Mostare alsoopen ellers cheques, andgive cashadvanceson Travel agencies willchange cashandtrav- MONEY Travels Nikhil Nehal Travels GuestHouse Manali Bakery German Connexions Travel road ends. lowing, trythearea atthecoastwhere the charge halftheprice. Apartfromthefol- drugs (although it doesn’t have it doesn’t a monopoly drugs (although Anjuna iswell known asaplace toprocure Dangers &Annoyances Speedy Travels MGM Travels Kwick Travels House. [email protected]) Next Guest There are noATMs inAnjuna;theclos-

h The most pristine Internetcafé,andtheonewith The mostpristine 9am-9pm) Internetaccess. ( ( % ( ( ( % % % ( % (AnjunaBeachRd; ( % h 2273443, www.anjunavilla.com; 2274317) Onthemainroad. ( 2273477) At the Manali GuestHouse. 2273477) AttheManali 2273288, 2273309,2273475; 2274508; Internetaccessperhr NORTH GOA ••Anjuna NORTH ( % 2273208; Mazal Vaddo) tothe 2273208; Mazal Next % 8.30am-11pm) Hasnowsetupa ( % 2274347, 2274439;fax 2274437, 2274439; 2274421, 2273477;perhr h 9.30am-2.30pm

139 NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA on market dayandpartynights. Anjuna; theftcan beaproblem, especially to carryoutchecks onforeigners. known hasbeen police Anti-NarcoticsCell here, butparticipate atyourperil–the freely available days,canstill befound these notso though on them).Illicitsubstances, 140 ‘scene’ itself. since there’s except the nothing to see day there’s no real reason todaytriphere don’t beat youthere. Apartfrom market go tothe occasionalparty –ifthepolice over a few and drinks,watch thesunset people Anjuna isaplace tohangout,meet Activities 4 1 3 2 ANJUNA Take great care of in yourpossessions NORTH GOA ••Anjuna NORTH Paradise...... House...... Baba...... Curlies...... Bank ofBaroda...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION White Negro...... Sunset Bar&GuestHouse.. San Francisco's...... Peace Land...... Mary's HolidayHome...... Manali GuestHouse...... Laguna Anjuna...... Casa deCapitaoGuest Healing HereandNow...... Speedy Travels...... Connexions Travels...... (see19) Anjuna BeachResort...... Nikhil Travels...... Nehal Travels...... MGM Travels...... Manali GuestHouse...... (see15) German Bakery...... (see32) Villa Anjuna...... Victor GuestHouse...... Red CabInn...... Poonam GuestHouse...... Palacete Rodrigues...... Martha’s BreakfastHome.. Dom JoaoResorts...... Coutino’s Nest...... Post Office...... A RBIN S EA AC 40 25 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 3 43 B1 B2 A1 B3 B2 B1 B1 C1 C1 D2 B1 C2 B1 C1 C1 C1 B2 B1 B1 C3 B4 D2 D1 C2 B1 B1 D1 27 37 17 44 23 26 Beach Food Anjuna 10 St Anthony’sChapel 21 Shacks 11 31 Oxford Arcade Junction 42 41 Starco 28 24 B 9

34 22 38

36

Market

7

llo V e M e D Flea a dd o 47 15 46 2 To Vagator(3km); Chapora (4km) 14 33 tion Yoga Magic ( p142 lea ( p142 ). Upmarket accommodation op- onsiteyou can stay atHotel Bougainvil- inthe yogaculture, yourself to immerse for thelatest information. Ifyoureally want class, orRs3000 for 10.Checkthewebsite ners. Itcostsaround Rs400forasingle Fridays there are forbegin- specialclasses At 9.30amonMondays, Wednesdaysand dayexcept Sunday. onevery for alllevels, the world.There are suitable 8amclasses, styles andattractsteachers fromaround tre offers inthefullrange of classes yoga place toattend regular Thecen- sessions. massage. Centre Centre 20 19 39 Mar ket Rd Te xrml popular extremely The

8 Anjuna Beach Anjuna

( 35 % 13 29 32 48 16 0.5miles 0 01 km 9370568639; www.yogagoa.com) 4 30

Rd 12 45 Kwick Travels...... (see15) Enfield Mechanic...... Bus Stand...... Bus Stand...... Bus Stand...... TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT Sunset Bar&GuestHouse....(see24) Shore Bar...... Munches...... (see 36) Looda's ...... DRINKING Shiva Café...... Sea QueenRestaurant&Bar.. Munches...... Mango ShadeRestaurant...... Lourenco's PizzaHut...... Joe Banana...... Dhum Biryani&Kebabs...... Casa Nostra...... Blue Tao...... Basilico...... EATING Motorbike Mechanic...... Paradiso...... Zoori's...... Xavier’s...... German Bakery...... 5 6 1 To Vagator Purple ValleyYogaCentre(750m); www.lonelyplanet.com (4km) ) To HotelBougainvillea(750m); offers yoga and Oxford Stores Purple Valley Yoga Yoga Magic(1.5km); D Tamarind (2.5km); isagreat Mapusa (7km) To Baga Stores Orchads Church 18 (3km) 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 C2 B2 B1 C1 B1 B1 B3 B3 A1 C3 B1 B1 B1 C3 B3 C3 C3 B1 C1 C1 B1 hereandnow.com; St Michael’s Vaddo)hereandnow.com; StMichael’s beach. worth thevery easywalkupthere fromthe the topof andwell thishillisspectacular, the viewof thecoastfromcross at dem glidescostRs1300. Tan-Either way,Curliesistheplacetostart. north inVagator, dependingonthewind. just behindCurliesorsometimesfurther fromthetopofjumps usuallystart thehill gate toescapetheirEuropeanwinters. The ful collectionof adrenaline junkiescongre- (behind thefleamarket), where acolour- Curlies ( p144 ) onsouthernAnjunaBeach athy andfootreflexology. ments, such ascoloniccleansing,naturop- It alsooffers otherhealing treat- several forchildrenclasses andpregnant women). lots of different (including yogaclasses Xavier’s restaurant, isapeacefulplacewith bathroom Rs100-200) www.lonelyplanet.com thing abudget hotel shouldbe;roomsare GuestHouse Manali BUDGET Sleeping Healing Here &Now Healing Here Even if you’re notplanningongliding, If youare interested in paragliding, goto ‘ Anjuna BeachinGoaisananthropologist’s dream,’ saidGitaMehtainthe book THE ANJUNAMARKET EXPERIENCE or some live music atLooda’s ( p144 ). attheShore4pm); the latter Bar( isgood ifyouplantostay onforthesunset andparty p144 ) enjoy the show. you’re notinterested under atree withabeeror cappuccinoand inshopping,getcomfortable hammocks, henna or spices;it’sallhere. This isthebestplacetobrowse forsouvenirs or, if hasnow developed(piercing, tattoosand haircuts),butthemarket intoasouvenir bazaar. alittlemoneyorjusthangout. Westerners up onthegossip,make stilltradegoodsandservices chips are nottheonly ingredients) anditsoonbecamethe highlightoftheweek,placetocatch andmoreless ofafleamarket ofablackmarket. of bottlesScotch,Marlborocigarettes devicesindicated orelectronic that thiswasbecoming paradise. down, mostlywhenthenumber From timetotheauthoritiesclosedmarket dents whoneededtosellafew belongings sotheycouldaffordsomemore timeatthisseaside on motorcycles,busesandboats. touristsandtravellersbusinesspeople, Western fromaroundtheworldpourintoAnjuna package Gujarati tribalwomen,blissed-out21st-century hippies,Indiantourists,miri traders,colourful that’s astruetodaywhenshewrote itbackinthestillpsychedelic1970s. The best time to visit is early morning (it starts around 8am)orlate afternoonThe besttime tovisitisearly morning(itstarts (from about Whatever youneed,fromapaperback toasecond-handEnfieldmotorcycle, rave clothing, tosellhereWestern residents (theystilldotoday, andchocolate andcookies cakes wouldmake The had humblebeginnings, market andwasoriginally bylong-term started Western resi- foreveryoneThe isamajorattraction Wednesdayflea market visitingGoa. Tibetan andKash- This guesthouse isevery- Thisguesthouse

( % ( 2274421, 2273477;dwithout % 32273487; www.healing , tucked behind 500) homely asthenameimplies. [email protected]; HNo907,MonteiroVaddo) As H No 893/1 De Mello Vaddo;H No893/1DeMello r/steRs500/600) .com; St Michael’s Vaddo;.com; StMichael’s rRs350-400) gives it a secluded though centralfeel. gives though itasecluded red, anditslocationjustbackfromtheroad The atmosphere ischarming, peacefuland in anattempt tocreate sky. night astarry ontheceiling and ithasstuddedbluelights one andonlyhoneymoonsuite isabargain, couple. The runbyadelightful efficiently upstairs –clean,basic,home. restaurant, anInternet caféand bookshop ice, backpackers hangingaroundthesmall torcycles torent, amoneyexchange serv- basic no-fuss budget jobs, there are mo- a bathroom;somehave afridge. the lovely Janet. Roomshave hotwater and fullofhouse catsiskept neatandorderlyby Martha’s Breakfast Home Breakfast Martha’s There’s alsoatinyrestaurant. mon spacewithwell-placedhammocks. maculate, andopenoutontoanicecom- away fromthemainroad.Roomsare im- Peace Land Red Cab Inn Cab Red Other homelyandeconomicplaces: Paradise Thisisareal find:achilled-out place

( %

( ( % % 2274347, 2274439;janet965@hotmail NORTH GOA ••Anjuna NORTH 2273700, 9822685255;s/dRs300/ 274427; [email protected]; ( % Karma Cola, Karma 2273365, 2274194; Thisquirky This is and

141 NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA sancharnet.in; rRs600-800) beach parties happen. beach parties youintheknowif beach access. It’swellplacedtokeep and Bar hasbasicroomsinagoodlocationforbothmarket without bathroomRs500/250)Downonthebeach,Sunset Rs 700) d withACRs1050; Vaddo; Mazal rodrigues.com; s/dwithoutACRs850/950, Palacete Rodrigues Palacete MIDRANGE Baba Sunset Bar&GuestHouse Coutinho’s Nest 142 fax 2274370; Gaunwadi; rRs1200-2700; fax 2274370;Gaunwadi; which seem overpriced.which seem of villafeel thanthe onesouttheback, etc. Roomsaround thepoolhave farmore ities withregard toInternet, safe lockers but cleanpool.There are alsogoodfacil- facilities such asa24-hourcaféandsmall juna iswelllocated andwellendowed with famous, butworldsawayinatmosphere. thatmakes totheeverything is close Anjuna dividual styleandelementsof quirkiness.It mansion,each withits ownin- Portuguese There are 15roomsinthis200-year-old are sure tosecure aplaceinyourmemory. who runsitextend awarmwelcomeand Palacete Rodriguesandthefriendlyfamily andabric-a-bracheritage museum store, ing balconies. furnished apartmentswithsmalland invit- behind thechurch, which hasvery nicely located just GuestHouse, DeCapitao Casa stay, anditcanbesociable. stay, whole, this isasafe andfriendly placeto that don’t are of devoid character. Onthe water andprivate balconiesare lovely; those Yoga Centre. It shares agardenwiththePurpleValley the placeisfullof character andcharacters. on itsveranda. There’s and apooltable than 200years old,hasalovely restaurant colonialbuilding,which ismorepleasant Perched Victor has the ontop of thecliff, of facilitiesinafamilyhome. goa.com/Coutinhosnest; rRs150-400)Roomswitharange 800) Onlythelargerroomshavehotwater. Anjuna BeachRd;dRs750-1000; Anjuna Beach Resort Anjuna BeachResort Bougainvillea Hotel Villa Anjuna Villa Victor Guest House Victor Guest House DeCapitao Casa NORTH GOA ••Anjuna NORTH ( % Long-term stayers shouldconsider 2273847; rsmallRs350-400,larger700- ( ( % a %

( % 2274386, 2273389;www.travelin ) 2273443, www.anjunavilla.com; Somewhere a between

( 273358, 250291;www.palacete Roomsthathave hot ( (Grandpa’s Inn; % % ( % 2274499, 227443;fabjoe@ 9822176982; rRs 1000) is 2273917; rwith/

( % ) VillaAn- % 2273832; apt s 2273270; ) This

a smallpool. aloungearea andabalcony.There isalso have afridge, rooms built higherthantwostoreys. Apartment-style dRs600-1200; yahoo.co.in; lodge/ste £179/199/219) Rs 1400-2200; their ownverandaare thebest. Thosewith roomsforarangeofprices. option withseveral dfromRs600)Agoodcentralbudget [email protected]; 5500; 274132; www.lagunaanjuna.com; 1-/2-bedroomsteRs 3600/ There are alsoa few restaurants overlooking trated along the strip near theflea market. There isahandful of beach shacks concen- Eating Yoga Magic TOP END Dom JoaoResorts Poonam Guesthouse good value.Thegardenrestaurant getsgoodreviews. andhotwaterare neat,tidyand Standard roomswithTV Negro White view southdownthecoast. ones togofor;theypreside over anendless best viewsaround.Rooms1and2are the not permitted to stay here.not permitted tostay room.Children aged under12arenal TV butthere isacommu- Rooms have no TV, overlooking thepool.There’s alsominigolf. therooms aretaining of Tuscan-style stone old colonialbuilding, butthebuildingcon- The restaurant ontheveranda isset of an Tamarind has22roomsin alovely setting. of Anjunaonthe Mapusa–Anjuna Rd,the hit themarkforboutiquestyle. of pool.Therooms allvary,butsomereally classic colonialandafittingplacefor agame inthedimmainbuilding,which taurant is reasonably sizedpool.There isashadyres- beach lounges andhammocks,there’s a greenthe dense gardensare scattered with how thepoolpansout. a healthymeal.Everyone iswaitingtosee then headtothelaid-back restaurant for do yogainthemorningontheirverandas, hot-water showers andecotoilets.Guests styletentsRajasthani withprivate open-air tryside. Accommodationisinspacious the middleof thesprawlingGoancoun- ence isonoffer atYogaMagic, located in Other popularoptions: Tamarind Laguna Anjuna s ) Laguna Anjuna has a nice set up; up; Anjunahasaniceset Laguna

( ( s ( % % % ) 2273326; rbasic/standardRs300/500) 5623796; www.yogamagic.net; tent/ A coupleof kilometres out 2274319; www.thetamarind.com; r2274319; www.thetamarind.com; ( ( % ( % Atrulyspecialexperi- % 2274325; donjoaoanjuna@ s 2274305, 2273248,227413, 2274394, 2273194;poon www.lonelyplanet.com ) TheonlyplaceinAnjuna 652, StAnthonyPraise;mainsRs40-160) so important whenthere’sso important aview like this. a range of coffee –butreally thefood isn’t and nonvegetarian breakfasts (Rs140)and (Rs 165),aswellgoodvegetarian (Rs130) andMexicantas fare tochicken schnitzel There’s aneclecticmixof food,frompas- and lounge chairs overlooking theocean. eatery, withcushionsing atthiscliffside Anjuna. There are of multiplelevels seat- homesick Aussies. beans, Colgate toothpaste andVegemite for to international importslike Heinz baked The latter fromfresh haseverything bread and atOxford Arcade,nearthejunction. Stores, opposite each otherinthevillage, for groceriesatOxford Stores andOrchard den inthevillage. Thelocalforeigners shop The more interesting placestoeatare hid- the beach andsomeliningthemainroad. www.lonelyplanet.com 4pm) one. This is ofnames, tryingtoridethecoat-tails this Bakery’Goa incorporate intotheir ‘German And there’s real coffee. allover Restaurants breezetry thefresh (Rs30). andmintysea down withaconcoctionfromthejuicebar– too. Whatever youorderhastobewashed (Rs90)isawholesome indulgencepolitana Na- Thespaghetti basis thatit’sfruitbased. decadent friedapplepancake (Rs45)onthe good, andyoucanjustifyindulginginthe up withfriends.Themenuisconsistently pick acushionandspendhours catching ambient musicfillstheair. Localexpats Goa. Tripped-out trees formthewallsand stir inyourmemorylongafter you’ve left Recollections of Bakery will theGerman old school and get aburger (Rs40). or cappuccino (Rs25).Ifyou’re indecisive, go and washitdown withathickTurkish coffee proportion toitsflavour; one orderasecond apple-cinnamon pancake (Rs30)is notin to theclientele. Unfortunately the sizeof the catering combination tomato-and-cucumber (Rs25)isaquickandfresh The Israelisalad peoplehangoutherefoods, though allday. as value. There’s real inbreakfast expertise cheap placetoeat,withasmuch character of theleaders in thehealthy-lifestyle cul- yahoo.com; mainsRs 80-130; yahoo.com; Mango Shade Restaurant ShadeRestaurant Mango German Bakery German Blue Tao Zoori’s Thisisalaid-back andextremely ( % ( % the 2273476; [email protected]; HNo 2273476; [email protected]; 2273977, 9850419782; martaceriani@ German Bakery. German (mainsRs40-130; h (mains Rs15-50; 8.30am-11pm) h Amust-doin 8.30am-11pm) h One 8am-

bit lightonthespicebutoffers agoodrange. onthe1stfloor,mostlyIndianmenuisa intersection meal; Rs50);pumpkin vegetable thali(traditionalall-you-can-eat for itscleanfresh foodandlowprices.The spot isafavourite amonglocalforeigners tors and locals alike. Turnstors andlocalsalike. outfantasticallytasty kebabs. Palace, AnjunaBeachRd;mainsRs 50-150)Lovedbyvisi- nicely located behind thefleamarket area. creative distinctlyGoanstyle. though Itis lobster andwhatever fish isavailable in food restaurant intown.Itprepares prawns, of hasthestatus place comfortably bestsea- place towatchtheseaandhaveIndianorItalian food. Nostra Casa It serves wood-fire pizzas. It serves daysgivenitslocation. onmarket lunch venue,particularly pasta. opposite BlueTao, pizzaand this Italianrestaurant serves mains Rs25-110) snacks, orwhenthemunchieshit. Dhum Biryani & Kebabs Dhum Biryani&Kebabs Shiva Café San Francisco’s Basilico Pizza Hut Lourenco’s Munches with exoticjuicedrinksahealthytwist. areembellished pasta available here, along and vegetarian. treats Rare such aspesto- dishes,allofand Italian which are organic The menuisacreative collectionof Indian natural productsandhasalovely courtyard. ture of Anjuna,Blue Tao arange sells of where atthiscorner; tryMunches ( above ). at it,you’ll beabletoprocure some- abeer isdead; ifyou’reelse intent onkeeping on a flicker of goingwheneverything apulse Junction alsomanagesThe Starco tokeep &Entertainment Drinking ters of dirt downinto aseries stall-lined Villa Anjuna. isnextto Queen movies Sea night. every buttherestaurantis spectacular, playstwo Indian andIsraelifoodhere, noneof which restaurant withanicelyenclosedeatingarea. restaurant. Ask for directions. are allgood.It’sdiagonallybehind Xavier’s fritter; Rs10)andblueberryjuice(Rs50) Other established eateriesOther established inthearea: Joe Banana Anjuna Beach Rdhits the coast andpe- Anjuna Beach Xavier’s Sea Queen Restaurant &Bar QueenRestaurant Sea ( % (mainsRs25-80; (

% (mainsRs80-150; (mains Rs80-350; 2273721; mainsRs80-130)AnItalian ( 2270586; mainsRs60-100)Atthe There isarange of Italian, (dishes Rs10-80; % NORTH GOA ••Anjuna NORTH 5611264; pasta Rs 80) A friendly 5611264; pastaRs80)Afriendly (pizzaRs100-140)Apopular h ( % 24hr) Popularforjuiceor h 9326124699; Biryani bhajia h h 7-11pm) Diagonally

from 7pm) (Anjuna BeachRd; 8am-6pm) (pumpkin This This

143 NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA then switch drinks’ list after sunset. then switch drinks’listafter sunset. making orders fromthevariedmenu,and you’ll find:somewhere youcanspenda day job tobeanexampleof thekindsof places agoodenough does Bar the beach. Sunset strip of restaurants andwatering holesalong guish orsingleoutoptionsalongthedense able nights inGoa.able nights Looda’s canbeoneof yourmostmemor- lar backdropof at theocean.Agoodnight down, live bandsplayagainstthespectacu- go onWednesday;whenthemarket winds the timeof research thiswastheplaceto der towardsthebeach foradrink. aswearyshoppersWednesday nights wan- nearby restaurants dogoodbusinesson ket days,partyinvites are handedout.The and where thenext party willbe. Onmar- a goodsourceof informationastowhen ers aroundoffering ganjaandpills; they’re paths. You’llbeapproached here byhang- 144 Mapusa to Anjuna (Rs7). Theypark at There are houror sofrom every buses &Away There Getting Day Express. displaced chai market, aCoffee and even Paradiso boasts claysculptures, asurreally home legless –andsometimes shoeless. peoplestumbling the morningyou willsee hours Inthewee ofstarted untilmidnight. really get itdoesn’t is alwayson,though in Anjunaisatransient onebutParadiso or justobserve. chilling outisanexperiencetotake partin late about are anearthyblendof folk;their fromliveseach onecanonlyspecu- season people whoare magneticallydrawn back and therest of theworld.Thecollectionof Curlies actually thedividinglinebetween Curliesandtheresttween of Anjunaare happening. Onesuspectsthatthe rocks be- nothingmuch though isactually on even tobegoing where somethingalwaysseems where and does, no-onefitsbuteveryone late) music, atmosphere menus. andseafood rants thatcompete forthecrowdswith now isjustoneof manybeachside restau- tobethecentreThis used of action,but Curlies Curlies Shore Bar Shore Looda’s Paradiso Sunset Bar Curliesisoneof specialplaces those NORTH GOA ••Vagator NORTH &Chapora

(South AnjunaBeach;mainsRs40-100;

(Anjuna flea market; mainsRs40-100) (Anjuna fleamarket;

(

(Anjuna Beach; ( % % 9326100013) 2273917) It’s difficult todistin- It’sdifficult h Thepartyscene till late on market days) till lateonmarket h At till money exchange. On Chapora’s narrow but many shops andtravel agencies offer The nearest banks are inAnjunaorMapusa, Information are someregular partyvenues here. where actionhappens;there thenight-time theharbour andSiolim.Vagatorbetween is main street andastring of village homes Chapora, which islittle more thananarrow laid-back Anjuna–particularly thaneven remain amenableand it’smuch more it’s notatouristghetto. Thelocalpeople butterm basis duringthewinter season, postcards. which featurestor Beach, inposters and intotherocksatLittleVaga-face carved Little Vagator andOzran.There isaShiva three mainbeaches: Vagator (thelargest), are flooded withinterlopers. There are parts of thebeach tothebusstop closest north Goa,soforafew hours each daythe and isamajor stoponthebustours of popular withday-trippers fromCalangute tor isnotaparticularlycrowdedbeach, it’s side of Vaga- thisrockyoutcrop.Although covesline, secluded dominate thenorthern found onmostof coast- Goa’sdeveloped from therampartsof thefortare superb. fort.The views topped byanoldPortuguese of Chaporais dominated byarockyhill coconut palms,andthelittlefishing village ited area nestlesunderacanopyof dense infamous partyscene. Much of theinhab- it’s theplacetobeifyou’reGoa’s seeking esting partsof northGoa’scoastlineand % This isoneof themostrugged andinter- VAGATOR &CHAPORA Anjuna crowd. tending tothescooters often bythe used a normalmotorcyclemechanic, thelatter tersection. There’s anEnfieldmechanic and scooters andmotorcycleseasilyatthisin- Junction,andyoucanalsohireStarco of Bank Baroda. or furthereastalongtheroadjustbefore the Mapusa-bound Junction, busattheStarco up toArambol.Youcanalsohaildowna tinue ontoVagator andChapora;somego the endof the roadtobeach andcon- Many Westerners here stay ona long- thanthelong, openstretchRather of sand Plenty of gatheratthe motorcycle taxis 0832 www.lonelyplanet.com foreign exchange andInternet access. Cafe. exchange, plus Internetandphone calls;oppositePrimrose www.lonelyplanet.com Soniya Travels Bookshop Rainbow chapel. andhasan Internetcafé.It’snearthe and trainticketing, Noble NestTravels Narayan BookStall Jyoti’s Cybercafe Iway Internet Bethany Inn a store forprovisions. booths, and aswelltwosmallbookstalls main street there are STD/ISD several book purchaseandexchange. bend intheroad. Ozran Beach 4 1 3 2 VAGATOR &CHAPORA ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ ARABIAN SEA Vagator Beach Little Vagator Beach Spaghetti Beach AC (Vagator; perhrRs40) (Vagator; (perhrRs40)Tucked inthetightlybacked Valley ( Disco 30 % 6 (per hrRs50)Formerly Eddie’s. ( 2273344) Transport bookings, bookings, 2273344) Transport ( % ( % % 17 2274335) Plane,bus,boat 9326137063) Smallstall for 273715) Bookshop and 5 Chapora Vagator 32 Fort 22 1 11 aao & Chapora & Vagator 15 16 14

Chapora River 13 10 23 B 19 35 Harbour 18 24 9 27 Chapora 31 ...... Soniya Travels...... Rainbow Bookshop...... Narayan BookStall...... Jyoti’s Cybercafe...... (see32) Iway Internet...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION 20 8 25 3 2 29 33 4 28 26 by force, Chapora fell twice. The first time, Aguada. Whereas Aguada taken wasnever only five years after work beganonFort territory, wasconstructed inabout1617 – fort, on the very northern edge of the new mid-16th andearly 17thcenturies.Chapora of the building aseries between the localchieftains inthearea itself. north, Maratha horsemen fromtheeast and enemies–theMuslims fromthe by several for manyyears. The landswere threatened territory continuedtobeamajor headache of in1543,thesecurity the the Portuguese (district) cededto taluka Bardez Though CHAPORA FORT Sights &Activities Church 12 As aresult, about set thePortuguese Temple To Anjuna NORTH GOA ••VagatorNORTH &Chapora 21 (2km) To Siolim(6km); Arambol (13km) 34 7 To Mapusa To Petrol 16 5 4 3 2 (300m) (10km) Station 4A4 B4 A2 B2 B4 B2 0.3miles 500m 0 0 Mapusa BusStand...... Bus Stand...... Bus Stand...... TRANSPORT Tin Bar&Restaurant...... Paulo’s AntiqueBar...... Nine Bar...... Hill Top...... ENTERTAINMENT Welcome...... (see 31) Primrose Cafe...... DRINKING Yak Restaurant...... (see26) Sunrise Restaurant...... Scarlet ColdDrinks...... Robert's Place...... Mango Tree...... Leena's Place...... Le Bluebird...... Jai Ganesh...... (see26) Green Shadow...... Bean MeUp...... (see7) Baba...... EATING Sunita...... (see 17) Salt NPepper...... Noble Nest...... Moonlight...... Leoney Resort...... Jolly Roma...... Jolly Lester...... Jackie’s DayniteGuestHouse... Helinda Bar&Restaurant...... Dolrina GuestHouse...... Casa deOlga...... Boon's Ark...... Bethany Inn...... Bean MeUp...... Alcove Resort...... SLEEPING D 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 22 13 27 26 25 24 23 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 12 11 10 9 8 7

145

B3 B4 B3 C2 B3 B3 B2 C2 B2 B4 B2 A3 B4 B3 B3 C2 B3 B2 B3 B3 C4 B3 C3 B3 B3 B2 A3 B4 C4 NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA rediffmail.com; rwith/without ACRs2000/2500; Bean Me Up Bean Me VAGATOR Sleeping Bakery inAnjuna. Me Upandoutthebackof theGerman treatments available atBean the Ayurvedic Ask aroundforrecommendations, ortry the area, to recommend itisdifficult one. Mefered atBean Up( below ). Anjuna ( p140 ), there are yogacourses of- In additiontothevery popularcourses in Keep youreyeoutforvariousyogaclasses. YOGA &AYURVEDA directlyseafood fromtheboats. for photographs andyoucanbuyfish mouth of theChaporaRiver isagoodspot hauled ineach The morningandevening. ing boatsbobidlyandtheday’scatch is area of pungent smells where colourfulfish- lage bringsyoutothesmallharbour, an Taking theroadtonorthwestof thevil- CHAPORA HARBOUR the 1890s. abandonedin and thefortwaseventually hands thesignificanceof Chaporafaded, ofern taluka Pernem cameinto Portuguese the Marathas in1739.Butwhenthenorth- in timesof trouble. Thefortfell againto the river banktoenableresupply orescape and from thebastiondowntoseashore adding features such astunnelsthatled Hindu leaderSambhaji in1684. to surrender totheMaratha forcesof the fired, of whenthecaptain thefortdecided it wasreportedly taken withoutashotbeing 146 1639/2 DeulVaddo; dwith/withoutbathroom Rs550/350) the occasional live music event. restaurant here isvery popular andhosts gent feeling. Allof them are winners. The over big beds)togive indul- themaslightly hangings anddecorative mosquitonets elements of style(like coordinated wall- with tiledhot-water bathrooms have small ner. Every room isimmaculate, andthose corner andanadult-oriented chill-out cor- courtyard restaurant, withatoy-filled kid’s ary goodvalue. Roomsare aroundthe set This isavery specialplaceof extraordin- There centres are in somanyAyurvedic rebuiltThe Portuguese thefortin1717, Alcove Resort Alcove NORTH GOA ••Vagator NORTH &Chapora

( %

( % 2273479; [email protected]; HNo 2274491, 2273349; alcove2002@ as )

d fromRs450) [email protected]; dRs300-600) Staffare pay Rs200perdaytouse. clear swimmingpool,which outsiders can cure smallhotel; roomsare arounda set resort.com; d/steRs1500/2900; resort.com; TV. There’s alsoarestaurant here.TV. .com; rRs500) Roomsare goodvaluewith hotwaterand Jackie’s Daynite Guest House Daynite Jackie’s Salt NPepper Villa Garden 2274470, 2274471;dRs2500; the live music. winds down,crowdsoften comehere for want togobedearly;whenNineBar thepool.Itwon’tsuit ifyou Rs 100touse offers over Nonguestscanpay theocean. of which istheviewrestaurant terrace tion andfacilities,isAlcove, thehighlight inVagator,nicer placestostay foritsloca- For locationandfacilities,thisisoneof the of akitchen. out theback;they’llhave short everything cottages (aroundRs1800)were beingbuilt on thepremises. Atthetimeof research, there is atravel agency andInternet café of theroomsare basicbutadequate, and ment nexttoChinaTownrestaurant. Most day toatthiswell-kitted-out establish- Dolrina GuestHouse Dolrina area: well run. r with/withoutACRs1000/1500; and café out the back. and caféouttheback. Vagator, Bardez;Rs270/500) Simpleroomswithagarden HNo536/1,PO hotmail.com, [email protected]; Lester and apool. havebut itdoes nicepalm-shadedgrounds rooms andgroundshere are lookingstale, warmth, asdothesmallverandas. which have nonperpendicularwalls,lends Thedesignofto everything. therooms, grounds onaquietbackstreet but isclose Romma have air-con. out complexwithrestaurant. More expensivedeluxe rooms Rs 600,deluxe Rs1000-1500; rRs1000) /boonsark.html; Sterling Vagator BeachResort Sterling Boon’s Ark Leoney Resort Leoney Resort Places thatare popularintheVagator Other goodchoices includethe Bethany Inn (

% (d Rs800) 2273620, 2274897;www.hoteljollygoa.com; ( % Roomrates canchange from ( %

, bothof which are cleanand 5629454; Vagator BeachSt;rstandard ( ( % ( % 2273596; www.saltnpeppervagator % ( % 2273731; www.bethanyinn.com; 2274045; www.goasearch.com 2273634, 2274914;www.leoney Thisplacehaspeaceful a 2274896, 2958170;dolrina@ www.lonelyplanet.com s ) Very inaspaced- private s a ( % ) The overpriced ) ) Very nice,se- and 2274320, 2273018; ( % Jolly Jolly 2273276, 9am) bathroom Rs150,dwith300-700) doubles. inVagator. roomsneartheaction Rs 300)No-frills Rs 150) facilities anddurationof stay. and kitchenette facilities.Pricesdependon have theirownbalcony,hot-water showers shared bathroomsare spotless.Somerooms The roomsare allextremely the clean;even the very cordialOlgaandherhusband. isalovelyCustom House, choice runby de Olga,nearChaporaJetty andnext to something to dowith mangos, looksmore positive, and theroof, furnished to looklike bar facing intotherestaurant isan aesthetic Thewooden screened night. at 7.30pmevery most guestsare long-term stayers. dation atChapora;mostof itisbudget and There’s notmuch varietyintheaccommo- CHAPORA House Siddeshwar Rest Moonlight Sunita also asmallrestaurant andshopforbasicprovisions. sometimes apathetic,butit’sanicequietplace. There is www.lonelyplanet.com eous party. andhosts theoccasionalspontan- nights Up alsoorganises variousculturalmusical Me nets. Bean parachutes andleaf-filled and miscellaneous fare underheaving juiceconcoctionswraps, pizzas,pastas, yard restaurant offers healthyandhearty 11pm Sun-Fri) 1639/2 Deulvaddo;mainsRs100-200; Up Bean Me VAGATOR Eating &Drinking (r withoutbathroomRs150) rooms, and quiet placeforadrinkbuthassome basic there’s a garden area to chill out in and it’s near the action. there’s agardenarea tochilloutinandit’sneartheaction. Rs 300)QuintessentiallyVagator. Roomsare nofrills, attached restaurant.attached the olderonesare cheaper. There’s alsoan which have cleantiledbathrooms,though feel. Ask forone of newerrooms, these built lovely newroomsthatstillhave afresh without bathroomRs400/150) Helinda Bar&Restaurant Casa deOlga Casa Mango Tree Tree Mango Other basicoptionsinclude Thebig drawcardhere isthe movie , which alsohasbasicrooms. ( % ( 2273690; [email protected]; d % Thispopularvegetarian court-

( Baba % ( 2273690; [email protected]; d % ( 2273479; [email protected]; HNo %

3094464; mainsRs50-150; ( % 2274355; Chapora;dwithout ( 2273213; dwithoutbathroom , which isprimarilya % 2273963; dRs300)Basic In 2004,Helinda ( % h 2274345; rwith/ noon-4pm &7- Noble’s Nest h

Casa from from

h tarian dishesonoffer.tarian here, andthere’s of agoodselection vege- area. Francophilescanenjoyimported wine finedininginagreatthat does outdoor ated andunusuallyclassyFrench restaurant great viewof thepassingparadeof people. ita prices. It’slocationonthecorneraffords andreasonable tion, withgenerous servings are watched by)passers-by. to smoke anddrinkwhileyouwatch (and Yak, thisfruitjuicecentre is apopularplace English breakfast (Rs80). a drinkandchat. Ithasagood-value veg This isaniceplacetositintheshadefor stopsandanotherstarts. establishment totell wherefact it’ssometimesdifficult one out;in foranythingtostand it’s difficult Chapora are packed sotightly intogether Given thattherestaurants andbars of CHAPORA an unforgivably longtimetoarrive. size,anditcansometimes take the serving andMexicanItalian foodisoverpriced given TheIndian,Thai,Chinese, like sac. anegg (Rs 15). with bigblocks offruit salads ice cream Popular for coldbeverages andenormous Italian. Italian. Mexican Indian,Chinese, and that serves main street, Green Shadow isaquietplace everything and is open for insane hours. andisopenforinsane everything abitof crowd,Roberts Cafe serves rose Trying tocater forandcashinonthePrim- are sometimesindifferent. suspects.Thefood isfinebutthestaff nese food inamongthe usualIndianandChi- tree andadistinctive temple, Yak hasIsraeli the smallintersection marked byabanyan keep itsclass. themaindraghelpsit backoff being set the more in Chapora; polishedplacestoeat Bakery’. Thisisoneofligatory ‘German dian andWestern offerings, plusanob- In- popular restaurant withThai, Chinese, Robert’s Place Robert’s Leena’s Place Scarlet Cold Drinks Welcome Restaurant Sunrise Le Bluebird Yak Restaurant Jai Ganesh Jai Ganesh Green Shadow Green 9.30am-2pm &7-11pm) NORTH GOA ••VagatorNORTH &Chapora

(mains Rs25-100) (juices Rs15-30) (juices

( ( (mains Rs40-120)

% (mains Rs30-80) ( % % (mainsRs30-100; 2273695; mainsRs100-300;

2274392; 2274170; mainsRs30-90) Thisisanoddlysitu- (drinks & desserts Rs15-25) &desserts (drinks Anothergoodop- Right nextdoor to Right h Leena’s isa Leena’s Just off theJust off 8.30am-4.30am) h from 7am) 147 On

NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA 148 a sign that a party ison–orthatsomeone a signthatparty south.Groupsofraversthe problemsthatwere is headingoffontheirbikes quashedfurther taxidrivers.by in-the-know Localsinthisarea are increasingly agitated abouthavingacquired The sceneseemstohave moved toArambol,often and peopleare atthelake, ferried toparties Vagator). However, given savvy, theseoften thatthepoliceare don’tgetupandrunning. party Bamboo Forest site (behind themarket inAnjuna),andDisco Valley andSpaghettiBeach(in have placearoundAnjuna andVagator,Open-air rave generallytaken parties atplacessuchas Where toParty experience’. there ‘…toupliftpeople’sconsciousnessthroughthetrance-dance culture isnotnoise pollution,butacosmicexperiencethat,accordingtoDJGoaGil,isparty enjoyed therestoration ofthequieter daysofold.Forthemore though,their hard-core partiers as self-indulgentWesterners gyratinginadruggedstupor toanincomprehensible beathave these days,butontheotherhandlocalswhooncehadtoputupwithwhat theyperceived Visitors whohave heardthenotoriousstoriesofwildnightsinGoaare generallydisappointed and remote locationsoftheraves stillmanagestosometimesfoillawenforcers. more itistobeshutdownbefore likely iteven begins. Butbaksheesh stilltalks,andtherandom the banonloudmusicafter 10pm.The better organised is,the (andmore publicised)aparty behind thescenes(see p220 ). Ontopofthisisthesuddendiligencepoliceinenforcing butthehardhandoflawhasmeantthatthesehave speed, ketamine) beenpushedfurther nowadays are notapatchonwhattheywere. The syntheticdrugsare stillhere (ecstasy, acid, the increasing commercialisationofthescene,andgeneralconsensusseemstobethatparties lifeened thefuture veterans inGoa. ofparty Todayyou’llheartheparty complainingabout ernment’s acknowledgmentoftheeconomicpotential inappropriatingthescenehave threat- The late ’90sandearly2000sheraldedabigchange;controversy over drugsandthestate gov- Changing Times substances, sothatecstasyseemedthedrugofchoiceover ganja. thatreplaced theminthe’90s.with thetranceparties This eraalsohailedthearrivalofsynthetic andfull-moonraves innocentaffairscompared ofthe1970sand’80sseemlike the beachparties The traditioncontinuedwhenthe‘GoaFreaks’ beachesinthe1960s. arrived But onthenorthern anddancinglastedcolony becamenotoriousasanimmoraloutpostwhere tilldawn. drinking Goa hasalongandvibranthistoryofhosting were here, WhenthePortuguese parties. the PARTY’S AGOA? Cubana inArpora have lead tomore andmore venues ofthisilkpopping upalongthecoast. south.The Club growingpopularity ofthebig commercialoperators like club operators further foiled, but whentheygetoff thegroundresult canbeanight to reminisce about. Tophasn’tyetmanagedtogettoo cosywiththelawmeansthatitsplans areHill frequently that itcomestoadead stopat10pm.Anotherpopularvenue Top( isHill opposite ). The that fact for Vagator’s NineBar( opposite every), whichis allowedtohave nightonthecondition parties hasalsodonewonders being commercialised. Growingfrustrationatfruitlesssearches forparties toaCoffee next paint andachaimarket DayExpress –starkly symbolicofthewayscene is mainstream operators. Paradiso ( p144 ) inAnjunatriestorecreate thescenewithpsychedelic past dawn. locals anglingforbusiness–‘taxi?’,‘chai?’, ‘cigarettes?’ It’saheadymixthatcontinuesonwell radioactiveing tothebeatandglowinglike waste, touristsjoiningintheGoaexperience and efforts. law-enforcement New Year hitandmiss; localauthoritieseitherturnablindeyeoruptheir periodis particularly alarms orlast-minute cancellationswillresult inalotof aimlesssearching. The Christmasand NORTH GOA aGoa? ••Party’s NORTH But parties are hereBut parties tostay,albeitasaltered incarnationsoftheirmore soulfulancestors. The difficulties facedbytheGoa trancescenehave totheadvantage ofmainstream worked The hasbeenfilledbythemore gapleftbythereceding aboveboard ‘true’tranceparties Parties that dogetthegreen lightare anoddmixofravers inpsychedelicclubwearsway- thinks they know where a party is on. Often, false ison. Often, theyknowwhere aparty www.lonelyplanet.com .com) its own. Hill Topthrows parties on spe- 10pm musicrestrictions tocreate action of edge of itflouts the the action,butbynight the nextpartyis. knowswheremings, hopingsomeoneelse 10pm whenpeoplewanderabout like lem- to gatherataround5pmandit’sall over at music playstoapacked floor. Crowdsstart point of partyingwhere tranceandhouse Little Vagator Itisstillthe central Beach. atthisopen-airplace overlookingstarts outinVagator night standard usually Primrose Cafe andHillTop. Cafe Primrose driverstorcycle taxi or ask atplaceslike tolocalmo- out what’sgoingonbytalking andup,upawaytheygo.light Find before theybegin,others get thegreen partiesareThough sometimesshutdown reason, theyare rarely overtly advertised. further andintothejungle. Forthis days,partiesaredown these beingpushed diligent questtoshutthissortof activity gator Beach. area inadeserted ocean southof LittleVa- isaflatarea overlookingOzram Beach) the (alsocalled Beach whileSpaghetti Beach, area of beach atthesouthernendof Vagator DiscoValley Beach. Spaghetti isanopen organised atplaceslike DiscoValley and impromptu rave partiesare occasionally bars, established scene –alongwithseveral past. andwatchto drinkbeer peopleparade way of nightlife, butit’safascinatingplace haveChapora village doesn’t much inthe Entertainment www.lonelyplanet.com midnight) on thisfascinatingstreet. patch of socialnessthathasprideof place music. here foraquieter drinkand occasionallive delically painted trees. on restrictions) underacanopyof psyche- ally continuestill 2amor3am(depending themusicusu- next partyisat.AtPrimrose of Vagator village, thisisoften where the Paulo’s AntiqueBar Primrose Cafe Cafe Primrose ie Bar Nine givenHowever, thatthepoliceare ona Vagator isthecentre of north Goa’sparty Hill Top Hill Alcove Byday this isapeaceful placeonthe Some Nine Bar patronsoverflow SomeNineBar

(Little Vagator Rs20-80; Beach;drinks

( % (Sunset Point,LittleVagator Beach) 2273025, 2273665; hilltop104@hotmail ( % 2273210) (drinks Rs20-40) (drinks Towardstheback A tiny h till A just peacefulpockets of coastline. small andexclusive scene,whileothers are Arambol isblooming; somebeaches have a present, thearea Chaporaand between can, toadmire theviewoneitherside. At carefully, foramoment,ifyou butpause enormous Siolim–Chopdembridge. Drive once wasaferry an crossing,nowstands north of theChapora River. Where there beachesing theirwaytotheoncedeserted andpeopleare development although find- and lesstouristythecountryside becomes, The furtheryouget fromPanaji thequieter TO ARAMBOL CHAPORA via Siolim. Tree. alsocontinueuptoArambol Buses also leave fromtheintersection nearMango Travels inChaporavillage. toMapusa Buses totheroadjunctionnearSoniya is close out theday,someviaAnjuna. Thebus stop and Vagator fromMapusa (Rs10)through- Fairly frequent runtobothChapora buses &Around There Getting in theair. cians. There isthedistinctsmellof ganja fledged concertsof localandvisitingmusi- cial occasionsandoccasionallyhostsfully you the slow wayup to Arambol. This isthe coast road, which takesMorjim. there, take the first leftatthesignpost to that takes you across toChopdem. From thevillageroad through leadstothe bridge south bankof theChaporaRiver. Themain Mapusa, make forSiolim, thevillage onthe here make cyclingarelative pain. more andthe steep hillsaround difficult the mainstreet inChapora. Bicyclehire is gator (trythecarpark)oranywhere along motorcycle hire downnearthebeach atVa- getmight blocked in).Youcanaskabout to leave oryou earlydon’tparktooclose isphenomenal(ifyouplan ing theevening dur- Cafe orPrimrose outside NineBar machines, andthenumberofthese bikes hills are alive constantly withthebuzzof rent amotorcycleorscooter –theVagator spread here outandmostpeoplestaying late) and isarelaxed placetoplaypool. Tin TinBeach, occasionallyhaslive music Heading northfromAnjuna, Chaporaor Vagator andChaporavillages are quite Tin Tin Bar &Restaurant OnthemainroaddowntoVagator NORTH GOA ••ChaporatoArambol NORTH

(mains Rs40-110; h 149

till NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA Heritage Pacific Award, Church. over thelast few years as thebeach has rare olive ridley turtles ( opposite ). isaprotected areaend of Beach for Morjim headland andChaporaFort. Thesouthern by palms.There are good views southtothe mouth andbacked asmuch bypinetrees as strip of headingnorth fromtheriver sand dem. Theclean, quiet beach isanexposed Chapora River, 4.5kmsouthwestof Chop- beaches. receives atrickleof day-trippers fromother of choice forRussiansonholiday,andonly plicable reason, isthedestination Morjim Welcome toRussia Town.Forsomeinex- % Morjim Rs3000/3750; superior ( there isanothersmall that willimpress. OnWednesdaymornings women opentheshellsof ataspeed mussels the ChaporaRiver, where youcanwatch where forrent. signsoffer houses authenticslicesofthrough village living, to doit.Almostanysidestreet leadsyou place be a sensible period inGoa,thismight looking torent foranextended ahouse Ifyou’re placeinitsownright. pleasant Arambol, butitisactuallyaparticularly it asamere Anjuna and fulcrumbetween Siolim isoverlooked bytravellers, who use % Siolim 150 online silentauction. trybiddinginthe to stay, If youcan’tafford and isonlyopentogueststheir friends. white pillars aroundthecentralcourtyard area. The restaurant amongproud isset admired fromthebreezy open-airsitting canbe prominent poolnexttothehouse and individualclass,thesimple but roomshaveclusivity. Theseven elegant the artificialitythatoften comeswithex- near StAnthonyChurch. which isfullof home-grown produce;it’s Rs 20) arnet.in; ShopEW6,StAnthonyCommunityCentre; perhr % A finalistin2001fortheUnescoWorld Accommodation options have increased isatinyvillage atthemouth ofMorjim the There’s anatmospheric Computer Shop Computer 0832 0832 NORTH GOA ••ChaporatoArambol NORTH 2272138; www.siolimhouse.com; Wadi;dstandard/ isagoodInternet cafénearStAnthony

s ( % ) isexclusive without 9822485672; nrohan@sanch market

market market ( h Siolim House 7.30-10am) along , Rs 300-500) Guest House massage. such as beachside restaurant andservices road fromthebeach, butthere’s alovely for beach-hut life. Thehutsare acrossthe Russian) wanting to stay here.Russian) wantingtostay and there’s noshortage of people(mostly Having that the facilitiesare said adequate it sitsneararatherfilthypatch of beach. picturesque asbeachside livingshould be: for Rs250. rooms inamore basicbuildingouttheback huts, restaurant. Guest House 100m back. easily accessible sincethe road isonlyabout backed of stands by sparse palmtrees. It’s now they’re allover theplace! built here byaBritishcarpenter in1996– one of Goa’sfirst bamboobeach huts was to donothingmore than relax. that It’ssaid sprung uphere, attracting visitors looking of palm-thatch andbamboohutshave heard of bytravellers untilrecently, groups determined idlers. virtuallyun- Although stretch of beach thatattracts onlythemost Asvem isalong,flatandhassle-free Beach % Beach Asvem .com; huts/roomsinclbreakfast Rs450/600) ing Internet accessandcurrency exchange. junction here, Amigosisasmallshop offer- signposted turn-off tothebeach. Atthe (passing Milagres Church), thenleftatthe the roadtoAsvem andMandrem Beach thevillage,back through turningnorthon ple of kilometres alongthebeach ordrive here. Toget here youcaneitherwalkacou- of thebeach; there are alsobeach shacks andhutsatthenorthernend guesthouses butthebestoptionishandfulofnight, in village homesforaroundRs 150 per grown inpopularity.Roomscanberented will alsoprovide breakfast upon request. very optionrun byafamilywho hospitable As rooms, wellasitsstandard Goan Café Camp 69 Camp For those thatpreferFor those actualroomsto The rooms at brand-new The beach issmall and picturesque, Shanti 0832 Britto’s Guesthouse Britto’s

( isacharming Russian-runchoice %

(

( % % (

% 9881289334; [email protected];huts (Lobos; 985024201; [email protected]; 985024201; [email protected]; 2244632; rRs500) 2244458; hutsRs250) %

( www.lonelyplanet.com % 2244394; www.goaplaces 2244245; rRs250) hasmore-basic White FeatherWhite has alovely isnotas Julian’s isa the road from thebeach. Further down the but hasrooms in a building across lar affair the day. restaurant that’sconducive infor to settling front hutsRs300/500/1000) Francais forthatmatter)(and tostay is tically gives itshutsaway. what thegoingrate forbeach hutsis,prac- (Rs 75). breakfastsand agoodrestaurant set selling drip-dry thanunravel acrocodile! we’drather folded intoanimals–though forexample,towelsareinto smalldetails; theyhavejustifiably proudof theeffort put view of thecoast.Thefamilywhorunsitare rooftop area fromwhere youcanenjoythe a balconyaroundtheentire building,anda fridge andsomebasickitchenware. There’s andsittingarea,sleeping roomshave a change. Superblyarranged withaseparate www.lonelyplanet.com r Rs2000) Sea options withanice pieceof beach. wards Mandrem are anothercoupleof good neighbours are. thatits it’snotthecheaptwo, though affair a perfect place towhileawayanhouror Gopal. Withflowing white décor,thisis Rs 150) The nicestplacetoeatalongthe beach Nearby Gopal Further downthe beach andheadingto- between fullmoonandnewnights. even ifthey’re released intothesea. maynotsurvive, ists shouldbediscouraged,sinceenvironmentalistsbelieve thesebabyturtles (at thesouthendofMorjimBeach),whichhasbeenestablishedforthisvery purpose. who onceprofited fromsellingtheeggsare nowpaidtoprotect themattheTurtle Sanctuary programme. Locals conservation aturtle topatrolthebeachandstart of theForest Department those thatmanagedtohatch. posed athreat; eggswere andpollutionthreatened of trampledatrave parties thesurvival foritsmeatandshell.Increasedout ofthewater tourisminthearea itwasusuallykilled also wasfound foracoupleofrupeeseach.Ifturtle up theeggsandsellingtheminmarkets numbersbegantodwindledangerouslybecauseofpoaching–localswere diggingthe turtle where theyfirsthatched–even after 15yearsoutatsea. Oneofthosebeaches isMorjim,but have in-builthomingdevicethatenablesthemto return aremarkable turtles tonestatthebeach Goan beacheshave provided nestingplacesforolive ridley for manyyears. Theseturtles giant TURTLE BEACHES

( % The turtle nesting season is from October to March, and the turtles usuallycomeashore only toMarch,andtheturtles nestingseasonisfromOctober The turtle toshowtour- andputtingtheminbuckets uprecentlyThe hatchedturtles ofpicking practice In 1996theGoaFoundation,onurging ofalocalresident, stepped inandenlisted thehelp , which obviously hasn’t been told, which obviouslyhasn’tbeen are overpriced, butthiswillperhaps

9850686134; hutsRs300) ( ( Paradise % % Change YourMind 9822121712; mainsRs40-160) 2244431; [email protected]; huts/r/beach-

( % 2247832; rRs 350) hasarange of rooms has a pleasant hasapleasant

( % Le Restaurant Le Restaurant 5613716; huts isasimi- , nextto Arabian €15-33) 400) find somethingthere. areain theJunasawaddo of Mandrem and dation optionistoheadtowardsthe beach huts andrestaurants. The otheraccommo- drem of beach hasaseries typicalbeach r Man- facingthe ArabianSea. estaurants along thebeach, allwithsemi-open-air There are groups of several bamboohuts accommodation amongthecoconut groves. area withabroadbeach andsomegood the village. Mandrem isanotherpeaceful accommodation isakilometre orso past village. Thebeach andthemajority of the for Mandrem forMandrem orright Beach, Continuing north,turnleftattheT-junction Mandrem is beach, headingtowardsthetownof Asvem, River Cat Villa Cat River which has standard beachwhich hasstandard huts. backs onto theriver. circular balconies, andtheentire property in. Roomsopen upontotheenormous day discover anewnookorcrannytoread air. foramonthandevery Youcould stay balconies, shading mattresses intheopen the roof andpalmtrees its growingthrough looking to stay longer,looking tostay the facilities inthe all have bathrooms andbalconies. Forthose Salvador Dali would highly approveSalvador Daliwouldhighly of Little Nest Antonio’s Paradise isanabsolute bargain. Brand-new rooms NORTH GOA ••ChaporatoArambol NORTH , withitshammocks hangingfrom

(

% ( % 2247413, 9422394809; d/aptRs250/ 2247928; www.villarivercat.com; d

( % 9822100964; hutsRs500) 151

, NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA massage centre.massage laid-back vibe. There isalsoaAyurvedic tages are allreasonably kept, andthere isa Mandrem isthevery prominent rooms toaccommodate guests. the timeof research were buildingmore The D’Souzafamilyare andat hospitable, rant situatedbendintheroad. inapleasant ports of onquiet areas attacks of thebeach. Women shouldbe cautious;wehave hadre- adventure-sports and musicsceneshere. chill outforawhile. There are burgeoning and itgenerally attracts travellers lookingto than anythingsouth of Vagator though, be crowded.Arambol isstillalotquieter beach andtheroadleadingdowntoitcan the season them,andinthehigh to service facilities andaccommodationhas appeared ful, rockybays.Amushrooming industryof and theprominentheadlandwith beauti- for years, attracted bytheremote location discovered.truly been beaches, Arambol ( itisoneofAlthough Goa’smore far-flung Harmal) haswell and % ARAMBOL tages Rs600) ( value. short walkisworththefantastic While there’s nobeach viewtospeakof, the apartments willenable self-sufficiency. 152 there’s a church, school and afew shops, at the backpart of Arambol village, where from MapusaBuses stopon themainroad Orientation Long Resort Villa,you’llfind leads toRiver Cat times mustered onthedancefloor. restaurant, andapartyatmosphere issome- andhotwater.with TV There’s alsoadecent andarebamboo hutsfacethesea fitted out market feel –andit’sdoingagoodjob. Some ant strolltothebeach. happily situated inaquietarea withapleas- Rooms are unimaginative butare clean and rediffmail.com; rRs400) .com; dRs800) .com; hutsfromRs1000) % Near Dunes, Among thecluster of beach hutsin Travellers have driftinguphere been D’Souza Residency Before theroadnarrowstopaththat Before 0832 NORTH GOA ••Arambol NORTH 2247219, 2247071;www.dunesgoa.com; huts&cot- . Thethatched hutsandstonecot- ( inabrand-newwhite building. % Riva 2247931; ambrose_pinto@rediffmail hasanicesunken restau- istryingforamore up-

( % ( % 2247088; enquiry@rivaresorts 2247483; albert_d16@ Sing A- Dunes

hotmail.com; Dando Wada) based here. Surf Club Surf them, head totheSurfShack infrontof the paragliders andkite-surfers around.Tofind polluters,noise butthere are enthusiastic of locals,there are nojetskisorother such in Arambol. Much totheenormous delight times happen. brackish. Thisis where rave partiessome- the sourceof thespring,water isquite and,awayfromby theencroaching sea it’sfastbeing swallowed upin, although pool water hour). along thebeach toMandrem (about one You canalsowalksouth Querim Beach. minutes you’llcometothenear-deserted the headlandandkeep walkingforabout45 tive bays.Atlowtide,ifyoucontinuepast over theheadlandare more several attrac- The main beach isgoodforswimming,but Activities Tara Travels Travels Sanket option where youcanalsostockuponmusic. St AnthonyCybercafé the Netinair-conditionedcomfort. ontheblock, where youcansurf purple)newkid to-miss JBL Enterprises Travels Ganga Divya Travels Delight CyberCafé Cyberzone Blue Fin Communications Arambol PoliceOutpost travel agents. Internet accessiswidelyavailable, often in Information theoptions. lead through low thepathalongcoastandyouwillbe that suitsinArambol.Justcontinuetofol- restaurant orhoteleasy findingaseaside narrow roadleadingdowntothebeach. It’s canbefoundonthebusy, but mostservices on theroadrunningparalleltobeach, stores, travel agencies andInternet places is about500mfurtheron.There are afew 1.5km downtothevillage, andthebeach but nobank.Fromhere, asideroadleads Beach, close to Mandrem, close Beach, which also There’s ahealthyadventure-sports scene Behind the second bayisasmall thesecond Behind ( (perhrRs40) % that’s pleasant tosplashabout that’spleasant ( % ( 2292484, 9850554006; flyinfishbarbados@ % (569B Khalchawada) (663/3Khalchawada) ( % 2417617) 2242297; perhrRs40) (per hrRs40) 3953640) Awell-dressed (inhard- (Playlist;perhrRs40)Aninland ( % at South Arambol (perhrRs40) www.lonelyplanet.com 2242914) Thepoliceare fresh- is (Rs 9500). Surf Goaruns10-hourkite-surfing courses Shack. As well asrenting equipment,Kite them downinperson theSurf through Youcanusually hunt fan fromGermany. www.lonelyplanet.com centre.com; ArambolBeach) hire. has surfboardsandboogieboards for is aregistered business run byUwe treatment. courses combining yogawith Ayurvedic and special shorthatha yoga devotees three-week courses formore experienced on Friday. There are alsointensive two- to the centre onTuesday at2pm.Courses start and registration mustbedone inperson at more daysyoudotheless youpay.Booking experienced students costRs1800,butthe Arora. Five-day courses fornewandmore- teacher,and isrunbythe same Sharat of theiyengaryogaschool inDharamsala, ber tomid-March. Thisisthewinter centre courses inhathayogafrommid-Novem- [email protected]; equipmenthire perdayRs800) [email protected]; 1 3 2 ARAMBOL 21 ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ On the sand dunesofOn thesand Arambol Beach Himalayan Iyengar Yoga Centre IyengarYogaCentre Himalayan Beach (2km) To Querim Himalayan IyengarYogaCentre... Tara Travels...... Sanket Travels...... St AnthonyCybercafe...... Post Office...... Police Outpost...... Playlist...... (see 8) B2 JBL Enterprises...... Ganga Travels...... Divya Travels...... Delight CyberCafe...... (see4) Cyberzone...... Blue FinCommunications...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION 27 Kite Surf Goa Surf Kite 14 17 AC 26 Temple 29 1 28 25 16 ( % , which runsfive-day 9822867570, 9850475241; Shacks Beach 10 11 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B3 B2 B2 C3 D3 B3 B2 B2 B2 A2 18 19 3 13

Loeki Café...... Little Tibet...... Fellini...... Eyes oftheBuddha...... Double Dutch...... Blue SeaHorse...... Welcome Inn...... Sunny GuestHouse...... Residensea...... Om Ganesh...... Famafu BeachResort...... Ave Maria...... ry...... C3 Priya...... EATING SLEEPING 31 5 (www.hiyoga 22 B 9 4

and Ste- 2 24 30 10 23 Arambol Shacks Beach

6 11 20 8 you’ll find in these parts. you’ll findin these resentative of thetype of accommodation simple, lockable bamboo huts thatare rep- of isacollection of the beach, Residensea up fast. as youcanbewithout getting wet.Theyfill ated cornerroomsare tothebeach asclose side of thepath,butmore happily situ- popular choice. Ithasoptions oneither lar vein toSunny, OmGaneshisanother range travellers. still exclusively onbudget focused andmid- managed toavoid andis bigdevelopment it’s surprisingthattheaccommodation has overlooking stretch thispleasant of beach, traordinary locationperched ontherocks north endof themainbeach. Given theex- roomsorhutsat the the formof cliffside Accommodation inArambolismostly in Sleeping frills but the necessary cliffside location. cliffside frills butthenecessary ambol accommodation:nounnecessary This isagoodexampleof theclassicAr-

Residensea Sunny GuestHouse Om Ganesh 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 B2 B2 B3 A2 C2 B3 B2 A2 A2 A3 B2 C3 15 u tp...... D2 Bus Stop...... Pirate Cabin...... 21 Coconuts...... (see31) White Pyramid...... (see11) Welcome Inn...... (see18) The Place...... Smile ofBuddha...... Rice Bowl...... Outback Bar&Restaurant...... Om Ganesh...... (see14) Oasis ontheRocks...... Mango Tree...... TRANSPORT DRINKING

( 0 0 % (huts Rs350) NORTH GOA ••Arambol NORTH 12 2297675; rRs400-600) Convent School St Anthony’s Our Ladyof Vailangkani Chapel Church &

( % Atthe north end To Mandrem(4km) 2297675; rRs400-600) Market D 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 Inasimi- B3 B2 A2 A2 A2 A3 A2 32 0.3 miles 7 To Terekhol 500 m To Pernem (11km) (20km) 153

NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA Arambol BeachRd;rRs400) doubles. smallbutcleanWelcome Innhasseven on theroadleadingtowardsbeach, depending on who else hascheckeddepending onwhoelse in. feel. Itcanbeanintimately sociableplace bour, butitssizejustaddstothecosyfamily what’s onoffer atitsmore outlandish neigh- premises androomshere are smallerthan treatments. information about variouscourses and noticeboardattheentrance,with useful goodfood’.There’s avery lousy service, too hard;itssignreads ‘Nothing allowed, are alwayssmiling. and are cleanandgoodvalue,thestaff gets goodreviews. Rooms have hotwater three-storey concrete-block hotel, butit to thebeach, Famafu isanuncharact eristic north endof thebeach. places thatwraparoundtherocks atthe of endlessselection eating is aseemingly on atmosphere onquality.There andhigh flash inthearea; restaurants remain thick ambol. Sofar,there’s nothingtooshiny and There’s aniceassortmentof eateries inAr- Eating &Drinking 154 & dinner) rooftop restaurant. coconut palms.There’s alsoavery pleasant beach butisnicelysituated inaquietarea of a child-care centre. Ave Maria isoff the to miss;it’sinalarge buildingpainted like Rs 350/250) Ave Maria Ave Maria Famafu BeachResort Welcome Inn Double Dutch Priya THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE ner Rs5500/12,000) TiracolFort Heritage Hotel yours and,sometimes, yours alone. that swing outtotheocean. Ifyoucan,stayin Wednesday.Querim Beachacrossthe river is umbrellas, roundedstonewalls, airybathrooms withopenshowers andwood-framed windows can bespotted. There isanintentionally Mediterranean feel tothedécor, complete withwhite over themeetingpoint of theArabianSeaandTerekhol River, where anoccasional dolphin what feels the entire like state. The seven rooms (namedforthedaysofweek) preside south overyou’re pointofGoa,looking sittingatthe rooftoprestaurant atthenorthernmost one ofthenicestplaces tostayintheentire as state; atleast that’swhatyou’llbethinking Tiracolcouldn’t possiblyask foramore than theFort tasteful effort HeritageHotel. It is,infact, NORTH GOA ••Arambol NORTH

( This isagreat try placethatdoesn’t % This comfortable optionishard This comfortable 2292661; dwith/withoutRs200/150) ( % (mains Rs30-120; ( % 2242974; dwith/withoutbathroom If a historical monument like a fort hastobeconverted intoahotel then you afort If ahistoricalmonument like 2242510; dRs350-400) On the road leading Ontheroadleading

( % 2242516; HNo470 ( h % breakfast, lunch 0832-227631, 9226360618; [email protected];r/steinclbreakfast &din- Also The (Rs 40)are areal winner. is very, very Theveg tasty. hakkanoodles out ontherockswithvery cheap food,that butsmalleatingareais apleasant perched through thewarrenthrough of pathwaystofindit. riously. Followthered-and-white arrows punch (Rs40)isthebestinworld,se- heart of Bulgaria asitsounds,andthefruit is aboutasfarawayfromGoaandintothe Veal withvegetables (Rs155) androsemary underthetreeslight hasa lovely atmosphere. restaurant withorange cushionsandcandle- dential area TheBulgarian duringseason. upinthemiddle ofoption thatsets aresi- are held onSundayandThursday. and isagoodspotfordrink.Jam sessions andEuropeandishes Goan,Chinese serves unassuming placewithalaid-back vibe. It a popular hang-out for Israelis. a popularhang-outforIsraelis. conspiratorial airinamongthepastries. It’s bakerylit German andhotel withacuriously during season. during season. menu andarranges theoccasional party hasapredominantly Horse seafood Blue Sea Located where thebeach, theroadmeets from sushi toroastvegetables. a cushion underatree. Themenuranges the perfect placetowhileawayhours on dunesoverlookingsand thebeach, thisis ontheNext totheIyengarYogaCentre and pasta, as well as satisfying focaccias. aswellsatisfying and pasta, There isagoodrange of pizzas,calzones ian food,thisisArambol’stoprestaurant. White Pyramid White Fellini Om Ganesh Blue Sea Horse Blue Sea Loeki Café Café Loeki Welcome Inn Place

(mains Rs60-160) (mains Rs60-150)

(mains Rs25-100) ( ( % % ( (mains Rs40-130; % 2242510; mainsRs20-80) 2297657; mainsRs40-100) 9823883510; mainsRs40-300) Serving fantastic Ital- fantastic Serving This isaninteresting www.lonelyplanet.com Thisisavery h from 9am) A dimly Adimly This

place, where cushionsandChineselanternssetthemood. Mango Tree Mango aresea thefollowing: oroverlookingdotted alongthecliffside the extensive menu.Popularspotforbreakfast. extensive Arambol’s 200, localbeerRs20) [email protected]; DandoWada) an eyeonposters advertising live music. Goan spiritalive orshootitinthefoot.Keep live partscaneitherkeep the musicinthese the crowdandyourperspective, of anight music ‘scene’but,dependingontheline-up, and wide. aboutany It’shardtogeneralise ambol, which attractsmusiciansfrom far son, there isahealthymusicsceneinAr- In additiontothe parties duringpeaksea- Entertainment Oasis ontheRocks seafood specialities. Outback Bar&Restaurant Eyes oftheBuddha Chinese andGoancuisine. Smile ofBuddha Little Tibet miles downthebeach. Japanese andTibetan menuwithaviewstretching for Bowl Rice www.lonelyplanet.com Morjim. Morjim. take the backroad pastMandrembuses and north to Terekhol and Pernem, anda few couple ofdem, every alsohead hours. Buses (Rs 12,1½ hours), via Siolim andChop- There are fromMapusa buses toArambol &Away There Getting (mains Rs40-250) can catch aquietflick at21Coconuts. still (there really is norhyme orreason) you eously turnstopartying. Andonothernights thedrinkingjustspontan- On othernights, ficult togive credit toanyoneestablishment. sometimes tosuch thatit’sdif- goodeffect the coastof northGoainvitingthemasses, low key. Candlescreate romanceatnight. low key. road meets thebeach,road meets andwhere onSundayand Thursday.jam sessions largely town. onwho’sfloatingthrough music, withtheline-upof depending talent andliveFridays thisplacehasfilmnights Among theendlesschoice of restaurants Surf Club Surf Parties are sometimesorganised where the Loeki Café Loeki momo ( % (mains Rs 40-80) A low-key placethatmeets (mains Rs40-80)Alow-key (mains Rs 40-90) Self-proclaimed chill-out (mainsRs40-90)Self-proclaimed

( (Arambol BeachRd; % needs. 982248032; mainsRs40-90)Chinese, meets meets (mainsRs30-140)Israeli,Indian, . Pamphlets willflutter down 2292484, 9850554006;flyinfishbarba- (mainsRs60-250)Welllocatedand (mains Rs30-120)Standard 21 Coconuts (mainsRs30-80)Boasts OnTuesdaysand h 8am tilllate)

Pirate Cabin Pirate (mains Rs40- Has Has

journey. port, prepaid costRs682forthe65km taxis Mapusa orAnjuna). FromDabolim Air- totravela taxi here (aroundRs 350 from catch toArambol. ataxi Againtown itself. youcanget here off and isPernem,Railway about2kmfromthe The nearest ontheKonkan trainstation orautorickshawfromthere.a localbus,taxi you canasktobeletoff atPernem andtake around Rs200aday. aHondaKineticcosts season In thehigh the mainnorthernentrancetobeach. Anjuna fleamarket (onewayRs75). a small Portuguese a smallPortuguese the river of name. Itskey thesame feature is Terekhol ( At thenorthernmostpointof Goais ), onthenorthbank of Fort Terekhol here fortheday. Terekhol, andwalking,cyclingormotoring tors are inArambolor better staying off available behindthebeach shacksbutvisi- River. There are somevery basicrooms side alongthesouthbankof theTerekhol theexceptionallyprettythrough country- bay,or byroad headland fromthesecond via anarrowpaththatleadsaroundthe shacks. QuerimisaccessiblefromArambol River of liesthealmostuntouched sand plusacoupleof beachQuerim Beach, North of Arambolandsouthof theTerekhol Beach Querim OFARAMBOL NORTH Heritage Hotel ( opposite ). walls andisnowanupmarket hotel, the has atinywhitewashed chapel withinits within thefort,was added. takes upalmostallof theavailable space The fortwasrebuilt andthechurch, which viceroy, DomPedro deAlmeida, in 1746. wadi, thefortwas finallycaptured bythe later, when thefirst Goan-born governor, ish demanded thatit behanded over, and versy. Intheearly 19thcentury theBrit- it tobe involved in considerable contro- side of thenaturalborder (theriver) led You couldget agrouptogether andhire If you’re comingbybusfromMumbai, Motorcycles canbehired fromtoutsat There are Wednesdaytothe boatsevery Originally builtby therajas of Sawant- The factthatthe f NORTH GOA •• North ofArambol GOA ••North NORTH fort ort wasonthewrong

( h 11am-5pm) , which

155 NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA (NH) 17, between Panaji(NH) 17,between andMapusa. This eastof sights NationalHighway several fewer visitors. However, has taluka Bardez parts of receives andconsequently thestate, offer thetouristthancentralorsouth Away fromthecoast,northGoahasless to INLAND BARDEZ ( is theprudentlynamed views over thecountryside. uptoprovide paddies andrises sensational villages through andrice Arambol passes torcycle. Thewinding11kmroadfrom eral demonstrators were killedhere. demonstrations,andsev- anti-Portuguese the northernborderwasatcentre of years before Independence,thewhole of porters tookover thefort.Finally, inthe PeresBernado daSilva,wasousted, hissup- 156 bikes sometimescostRs4andcars Rs10. 10pm. As usualpeoplecancrossforfree but 6.15amand 30 minutesevery orsobetween friendly family. of roomsjustbelowthefort.It’srunbya % Amid thefew budget optionsinTerekhol The fortmakes agoodoutingonmo- Ferries fromQuerimtoTerekhol leave Another 4km north ofPomburpaoyoureach thelargeAnother 4kmnorth villageof ALDONA &CORJUEMFORTDETOUR: married thecaptain ofthe guard. that hersecret wasdiscovered. This didnotputanend tohermilitary career, however –she man, eventually finding herselfhere asasoldier. It was notuntilshe captured andstripped to have woman who travelled beenUrsula eLancastre, theworlddisguised asa aPortuguese tobeoverrunsoldiers halfexpecting issaid atanymoment.Oneofthe defenders of thefort as asolitaryoutpost inthejunglenearlythree centuries ago,filledwithhomesickPortuguese beau geste Corjuem Islandwas built. on influence extended eastwards, andthesmallfort Around 1705,however, the Portuguese above the ferry thatusedtostandhere. pointinAldonabetraystheancient linesofthefortress influence,andthe darkredthe MapusaRiver laterite formedtheboundaryofPortuguese wall abandoned him againsthismischief. the leaderwasledout,herecognised thestatueofStThomas astheboywhohadcautioned toring.started Fleeinginapanic,someofthethieves drowned,whileotherswere captured. As them nottocarryouttheircrime. As theywere attempting toremove valuables,thechurchbells as agroupofthieves crossedtheriver intoAldona,they were metbyayoungboywhowarned There isalegendabout thetreasure thatonceadorned thechurch’sstatues. Ononeoccasion, ferrynow defunct crossing. The churchwasbuiltin1596andhasbeen renovated inrecent years. Thomas NORTH GOA ••InlandBardez NORTH 0832-227670; rRs300) Squat and thick walled, standing alone on a small hillock, the fort hasanironicelementof Squat andthickwalled, standingaloneonasmallhillock, thefort From Aldonayoucancrossthedisturbingly modernnewbridgeacrosstheriver tovisitthe on the banks of the Mapusa River is a grand sight, particularly whenviewedfromthe onthebanksofMapusaRiver isagrandsight,particularly aboutit.Although there’s not awholelottoseehere, it’seasy toimagine thisplace Corjuem Fort , which hasacouple Hygienic Restaurant Hygienic on theothersideof Corjuem Island.Untiltheearly18thcentury,

Spanish saint. After onehair-raisingSpanish saint. v oyage the other. on on onesideandtheRibandarCauseway ers, acrosstoChoraoIsland lookingstraight junction of theMandovi andMapusa Riv- of France),occupiesafinelocationonthe de Penha deFranca The parishchurch at Britona, % &Pomburpao Britona to thecoast. either headingbacktoPanaji orcontinuing Fort before turningwesttoMapusa and ing theroadnorthtoAldona,visitCorjuem first village youcometoisBritona. Follow- northeast fromtheMandovi Bridge, the turn westtowardsMapusa Heading itself. the northbankof theMapusa River, then to followthebackroadsfromPanaji along Panaji, Mapusa oranyof thebeach resorts. motorcycle, orwithacaranddriver from The bestwaytoexplore thisarea isbyhired ant daytripifyouhave yourowntransport. churches andtemples, andmakes apleas- is apeacefularea of ruralvillages, farmland, Nossa Senhora dePenha Senhora Nossa deFrance wasa The mostconvenient andscenicroute is 0832 Aldona (Our Lady of theRock (OurLady . The www.lonelyplanet.com Church ofSt Nossa Senhora Nossa Senhora www.lonelyplanet.com a main town in a taxi isprobably the most a main town inataxi but given thatit’s ontheNH17, a trip from the restto atrip through of inland Bardez, Mapusa orPanaji. It canalsobeanadd-on isan easytripfrom either Porvorim % Porvorim and reredos. foritsbeautifulinteriorGod) isalsonotable deDeus Mae Senhora of Pomburpao , where thechurch of Konkani) onmostdays. (in the morningandholdsoneservice scenes onit.Thechurch isbestvisited in inGoanchurches)the altar withpainted simple reredos (ornamented screen behind vaulteddecorated, ceilinganda withahigh India. thevoyage to of whohadsurvived those farers, and thusshewasfavoured bymany hora, shecametobeassociated withsea- Sen- byappealingtoNossa death certain in which thesailors saved themselves from Aguada BARDEZ &BICHOLIM Magos ὄ ὄ About 5kmnorthof Britonaisthevillage The interior of thechurch isbeautifully Bay Reis Fort Mapusa 0832 Magos Guirim Reis of Miracles Church of Our Lady Crossing Ferry Bardez &Bicholim (Panjim) Porvorim Panaji Bastora Betim Paliem 17 Lady oftheImmaculate (Our Lady Motherof (OurLady Britona Church ofOur BARDEZ Conception Moira Nossa Senhora de Penha Mandovi Church of Bridge Franca Pomburpao Nossa Senhora Mae deDeus

Mapusa River Church of Spring Bird Sanctuary Dr SalimAli Aldona Ribandar Crossings Ferry Nossa TISWADI Corjuem Island Chorao Corjuem Corjuem Island 4A Fort Our Ladyof Compassion Church of Piedade miss it. junction andturnleftatthefork.You can’t it, take theBritona RdfromO’Coqueiro architecture.Indian andPortuguese Tofind daCunha,showstheGoanfusion ofGerard building, theworkof renowned architect Island, thenhead to the bridge onthe east the small island of Pomburpao to Chorao Bicholim. head east toMayem thennorth to Lake, ing byferry againtoNaroa. Fromhere ing tothenorth of theisland andcross- crossing byferry toDivar Island,continu- loop byridingfrom Panaji toOldGoa, and Bicholim withascenicbine Bardez you wanttoexplore the Goancountryside. good placetoheadonahired motorcycleif To theeastof Bardez, Bicholim is taluka BICHOLIM h ( isthemuseum visit Porvorim wayofsensible getting here. Thereason to % Another optionistotake theferry from With yourowntransport youcancom- 10am-8pm) 2410711; Torda, Salvador do Mundo; admission Rs25; 2410711; Torda,SalvadordoMundo; Crossing Island Divar Ferry Naroa Old Goa Crossing Train Station . This unmistakable triangular . Thisunmistakable Ferry (Old Goa) Karmali NORTH GOA ••Bicholim NORTH Saptakoteshwara Mayem Lake Temple Bicholim

4km 2miles 0 0

BICHOLIM Mandovi River Mandovi Houses ofGoa Banasterim 157

NORTH GOA NORTH NORTH GOA personally to bless them. The incarnation Shivapleased somuch that hecame toearth millionyears, afeatpenance for seven that Great Sages), (Seven Saptarishis performed tion of Shiva. AccordingtoHindu legend, the mopeds andthe occasional tourbus. is undisturbedby anythingapartfromafew row emeraldgreen valley,thelittlehamlet ural surroundings. Tucked awayin anar- and isbeautifully complemented byitsnat- village of Naroa. istiny Thetemple itself is the Saptakoteshwara Temple, nearthe intheareaAmong themostfamoussights TempleSaptakoteshwara Temple.Resort) andSaptakoteshwara to bothMayem (Mayem Lake GTDC Lake ections occasionally,butthere are somesigns Bicholim area. of theisland,which willtake you tothe 158 The deityworshipped here isanincarna- life, decent pomfret ing inonhiscrimes. paid US$15millionforabookandmovie deal.Andnowtheproprietors ofO’Coquieroare cash- tourist. gust 2004,Sobhrajwasarrested againinaNepalesecasinoforthe1975murderofanAmerican toThailand.he hadallowedhimselftobecaughtescapeextradition him inO’CoqueiroandsentbacktoTihar Prisonforanother10years. Sobhraj later claimed out. drugged theprisonguardsandwalked by befriendingandmanipulatingprisonguardsfellow prisoners. In1986 hethrew aparty, he bidedhistimeinDelhi’sgruellingTihar Prison,where heleadarelatively life comfortable count ofmanslaughter, andwasjailedforonly12years. of French touristsinDelhi1977.Amazingly,hewascharged justwiththatoffence andone lice Organization (Interpol) foryears. Hefinallycameunstuckafter attempting todrugagroup toeludepoliceandtheInternational CriminalPo- under enoughdisguisesandstolenpassports around Asia familyoffollowersandtravelling pullingoffvariousscams,establishingacultlike would befounddruggedanddisfigured. charm foreign touristswithhischarisma,butonebytheywoulddisappear,andtheirbodies facing arrest formurderingtravellers inThailand, Nepal,Afghanistan andIndia. Sobhrajwould serial killer. Inthemid-1970s,thisVietnamese-Indian-French manwasAsia’s mostwanted man, taurant reopened tounveil alife-sized statute ofCharlesSobhrajtocommemorate theevent. most famouscaptures (oratleastrecaptures), andafter aRs5millionrenovation in2005theres- O’Coqueiro CRIME PAYS AT O’COQUEIRO NORTH GOA ••Bicholim NORTH Australian writer Nevillewrote Richard livingoffhisnotoriety; hewasreportedly During histimeinFrance,Sobhrajmadeafortune In 1997hewasfreed fromprisonandfledtoFrance,afree manattheageof52.ButinAu- Not longafter, Sobhrajwasspotted by apolicemaninGoa,where authorities swoopedon With a20-yearwarrantforhisarrest deathpenalty), outstandinginThailand (and acertain After beingbrieflyjailedinBombay1973over abungled jewellerytheft,Sobhrajflitted Sobhraj (alsoknownas‘theSerpent’)wasanotoriouscon man, thief,murderer andsuspected Bottom Line ( % You may need toaskfordir-You mayneed , wasreleased in2002. recheiado 2417806) , a well-known Goan restaurant in Alto Porvorim, boastsmore, awell-knownGoanrestaurant thanjusta inAltoPorvorim, (fishstuffed withred masalafilling).ItwasthesceneofoneIndia’s The LifeandCrimesofCharlesSobhraj. From theferry point atNaroa (from Divar the temple mayrequire some askingaround. today. stands leading to thesmallbutsolid structure that to itthatthetemple wasreconstructed, come here toworship, andpersonally saw that thegreat Hindu leader Shivaji to used in asimpletemple on thisnewsite. Itissaid raculously discovered again,itwasplaced lost.Mi- away andsubsequently smuggled the spot itwas desecrated the Portuguese in agreat temple onDivarIsland,butwhen the Muslims,itwasrecovered andplaced Having buried toavoid been theravages of siderable adventures before arrivinghere. now resides inthistemple underwent con- deity of thegreat Kadamba dynasty. teshwara, which wastobecomethefavoured that heappeared inatthetimewasSaptako- If you’ve gotyourown transport,finding The lingam(phallicsymbolof Shiva) that www.lonelyplanet.com A filmabouthis out ACRs700/550; tourists; itreally isaquietretreat. to Mayem istoescapebeaches Lake and stop forlunch here. Thekey reason togo picnic spot;tours runbytheGTDCalso that’s popularamongIndianfamiliesasa aji, Mayem sortof isapleasant place Lake ofEast Naroaandabout 35kmfromPan- Lake Mayem it. you’ll knowthetemple whenyousee temple, anddon’tget distracted bydecoys– archaeology arrowsuntilyouarrive atthe down thislane. Followthered andgreen mac lane. Thetemple isonyourleft,1.5km 2km before downasmalltar- forkingright Island), followtheroadforapproximately www.lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’ the above -‘Do theright theterms andconditions onoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,or resell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inother words,please don’t uploadthischapter toapeer-to-peer In return, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseit forpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse, accesstothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake GTDC establishment inthestate.GTDC establishment Itsrooms Mayem Lake View Lake Mayem a

) ( isprobablythenicest % 0832-2362144; dwith/with- come to. be onyourown,thisisreally theplaceto perched attheriver’s edge. Ifyouwantto are extremely goodvalue,particularlythose Rs 80/120per30minutes/one hour. an area where youcanhire paddleboatsfor GTDC ontheothersideof theriver, and for littlereward ifyou’re onabicycle. ing onamotorcycle,butbitof alonghaul about 3kmtothelake. Thisisagoodout- across tothemainland,andthenheadeast Chorao orDivarIsland,thenanotherferry scenic route istotake theferry toeither Coming fromPanaji, thequickest andmost the smallvalleyandlake comeasarelief. late and sunbaked countryside,after which and Bicholim, somedeso- Theroadcrosses There’s alsoarestaurant runbythe You canget here fromMapusa viaThivim NORTH GOA ••Bicholim NORTH © LonelyPlanetPublications

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