WGC Newsletter #2 September 2000

The WHOLE GRAIN CONNECTION Aiming to enhance the desirability and availability of 100% whole grain breads, and other 100% whole grain products, preferably from organically and sustainably grown grains Newsletter number 2, September 2000 The Conclusion of the Summer builds one. Imagine the local industry and One observation stands out above all others employment that would result. Imagine the from this amazing summer of harvests, and joy from those in the cities eating all their that is that the most successful farms are the foods so directly and responsibly farm ones that somehow carry their product all produced. Carrying this to a logical the way to the customer. extension, the Farmers Market stands would The Farmers Markets and some kind of become none other than shopping stores, or customer subscription are the connections at least constantly stocked stands in a that are allowing this to be, and this is permanent, daily, covered Farmers Market. wonderful for crops of fresh vegetables, and fresh fruits. But the link that would allow an California Wheat Commission even steadier, direct flow between farmer and the Whole Grain Connection and customer, would be a good farm kitchen, form a link where many of these things could be The California Wheat Commission is a non- preserved for year round use or at least be profit trade organization for California wheat converted to a table ready form. This applies farmers. They have a staff of four under the to greens that are washed to near perfection directorship of Bonnie Fernandez, offices before leaving the farm, fruits made into all and a well equipped wheat testing laboratory kinds of preserves, concentrates and juices, in Woodland, all supported by a small nuts that are dried and packaged, milk that percentage from the first sale of each can be made into a cultured product, but member farmers’ wheat. For many years the especially it applies to wheat that could be export of wheat was the main marketing made into 100% whole wheat flour, breads, activity, but more recently there has been a pasta and other products. Actually a good trend to also sell California wheat in farm kitchen or a bakery, is none other than California and the Western States. The a food processing plant, certified by the California Wheat Commission works very health inspectors, and meeting our own high closely with the California wheat breeding ideals for cleanliness and efficiency. programs centered at UC Davis. As a result Milling clean wheat berries to 100% whole the wheat varieties chosen by the member grain flour is a simple one step process, with farmers are usually those developed through an electrically driven stone mill. Making UC Davis, under the leadership of Lee rustic hearthbreads requires a clay or brick Jackson, and by independent Seed oven that is best built right there in the companies who have associated themselves bakery. Firing that oven can be preferably with the UC Davis program. Each year there with farm wood and prunings, or by gas or by is a meeting of farmers, breeders, bakers and electricity. other users of California wheat and they The smallest farms are at a disadvantage in present to each other their opinions of the being able to provide a good kitchen, but current and new varieties of wheat that will what if two or three farmers build a good be available. This year for the first time, kitchen together, or a whole valley of farmers Whole Grain Connection, September 2000 page 1 Monica Spiller will be part of that group and cancer for example.This conclusion was she will evaluate their latest wheat varieties drawn, despite many earlier studies that for suitability for barm breads (naturally indicated that cereal fiber present in whole leavened whole wheat breads). In return grains in particular, does protect. But there is interest on their part, in the Whole consider this: How was it possible in Grain Connection work of selecting landrace America, for those nutritionists to assess the wheat varieties for organic farming, without real amount and kind of dietary fiber irrigation, in California. We have already contributed by breads, described by study gratefully experienced a bonus from subjects as whole wheat? And wouldn’t the participating in this program, and that was effect of purified wheat bran be quite help with our small scale harvesting from different from the dietary fiber complex Tom Kearney, the Yolo County Farm contributed by a 100% Whole Wheat bread? advisor, associated with the University of Fortunately, for anyone who normally eats California co-operative extension. only 100% Whole Wheat bread, and the 100% whole grain versions of all other grain Labelling whole wheat bread foods, some of the advantages are obvious on matters! a daily basis: no constipation, and provided Have you ever seen a bread labelled that we are exercising reasonably, no weight 100%Whole Wheat? If you have never seen gain problem. We are inclined to trust the this label on a bread, then you may never results from the many earlier studies, that have eaten a bread made entirely from whole whole grains do offer protection. But perhaps wheat, including all the germ and all the bran there is a qualifier, and that is that the whole together with the endosperm (white flour grains should be organic, or at least grown segment). Unless of course you make your and processed without pesticides. After all, it own 100% Whole Wheat bread. Even the is in the germ and bran that pesticides would few commercial bakers who make a truly accumulate! The ultimate bread label then whole wheat bread according to their would be 100% Whole Organic Wheat ingredient list do not seem to use this label. Bread. Others do not use the 100% Whole Wheat label because they are using gluten flour, Harvest Report which is really also a refined wheat flour. Yet Heirloom wheat varieties harvested with 100% Whole Wheat bread would be a choice antique combines, has been the theme of this bread, nutritionally far superior to any wheat year’s harvest. These old combines are much bread containing refined wheat flour, refined smaller than most modern combines and so gluten flour, or refined bran. Instead there is are appropriate for harvesting smaller areas of a selection of breads available in wheat. Small modern combines are available, Supermarkets that are labelled Whole Wheat, but they are an investment that we have not which only need to contain a small yet made. percentage of whole wheat flour to justify the On June 25, Maack Farm in Marin county label. was the first to harvest and brought in their But why does all this matter, after all if we half acre of Federation wheat with a John care enough we read the ingredient label and Deere / Chalmers All-Crop combine from decide whether or not this is the bread we the 1950’s. Alan Scott spotted the machine would like to eat, and if we are desperate in Sebastopol, and bought it there and then. enough we make our own bread. On the day of the harvest an old farm fire Recently however there have been two truck was set at the edge of the field and kept prestigious reports on cereal fiber, which of at the ready by Frank Maack, who was also course includes wheat bread fiber, and its chief mechanic, while nephew Charles effect on disease prevention. These recent Belford drove the tractor that hauled the reports have suggested that cereal fiber is combine round in a spiral towards the center worthless as a protection against colon of the field. It was a pretty smooth operation Whole Grain Connection, September 2000 page 2 except for one rather alarming glitch. After harvested enough for the townspeople too, the first time around the field, everyone but hardly enough for modern cities full of stopped for a breather and a necessary drink people. It was a wonderful experience to go of water, and then Alan discovered that the out into the field soon after dawn in crank handle for the combine motor was beautiful coolness, to see the wild turkeys missing - how would we ever find it amid all and pheasants strutting and flying away, to those piles of straw ? Fortunately Christian see the sun climb ever higher in the sky, and Connole, visiting from Australia, had the to stop working well before noon to avoid sharp eyes and good sense necessary to find the searing heat of mid-day. Water and it, within about fifteen minutes of the first watermelon refreshments were never so moments of quiet panic. welcome. During the early afternoon, lunch Next came news from the farm in Santa and a snooze under the shade of a huge old Clara county, which shall be nameless to oak tree down by the river, gave renewed protect the beleaguered owner. They have energy for an afternoon of threshing in the beautifully restored equipment from the shade of the barn, and a second round of 1950’s and much earlier, that promised an harvesting from late afternoon until sunset, easy and efficient harvest. Because of their and moonrise. Dinner was eaten out in the interest in wheat weaving they grew half an open by the light of a full moon. Seven acre of a black bearded durum wheat from wheat varieties were planted in about an acre: Italy, and especially to show off their Baart, Sonora, Mauri, Turkey, Tuscan, Hard threshing machine, they also grew half an Federation, and Wit Wilkoring..... Eventually acre of Pacific Bluestem. The first calamity the harvest was completed by Tom Kearney came when hired help plus disking machine, from the University of California Co- disked all the black bearded durum wheat operative Extension.

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