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BRAND-NAME RATING

BRAND-NAME RATING

Finding the Best Sliced BY JAYNE HURLEY & BONNIE LIEBMAN

f you’ve spent time in the bread aisle lately, you may be confused. Even we’re confused, and we’ve been reading labels since was building “strong bodies 12 ways.”

Breads used to be “whole ” or “white.” Now they can be made with “whole white wheat.” IThey used to be 100% whole wheat or not. Now you have to divine whether “88% of the recom- mended daily whole ” and “3 grams of fiber” beat “22 grams of whole ” and “40% fiber.”

Wouldn’t it be great if every bread’s label disclosed what percent of its was ? (That’s just what Sara Lee has decided to do with its Soft & Smooth Made With Whole Grain ...after we threatened to sue. Turns out the bread is just 30 percent whole grain.)

No matter how you slice it, buying bread is tricky business.

Information compiled by Danielle Hazard.

Whole Grain Gimmicks albino variety of wheat called “white with some whole wheat,” rather than the red wheat grains along with While the and Drug Administra- that’s used to make most and far more refined tion has no clear rules that determine other grain . The only breads we grains. (Companies which breads can be labeled “whole found with whole-grain white flour often put “made grain,” the following claims usually ap- as the first ingredient—Arnold’s with” in tiny type, pear on whole-grain breads: or Brownberry’s line of hoping no one will ■■ 100% Whole Grain or 100% Whole Grain Country notice.) One excep- Whole Wheat. Unless the White—had refined tion: Weight Watchers manufacturer is lying, the bread white flour (from red Multi-Grain made Whole-grain lines by contains no refined white flour wheat) as the second. with Whole Grains Pepperidge Farm, is 100% whole grain. (which is typically called “en- In fact, most “whole Oroweat, Natural riched ,” “unbleached grain white” breads , and Home Pride ■■ Good Source of wheat flour,” or just “wheat flour”). contain no white contain no refined flour. Whole Grain. To the wheat; they’re a mix , the claim ■■ Whole Grain. Most contain little or of whole and refined no refined white flour. (If some ap- means at least 8 grams of whole grain. flour from red wheat. pears far down on the ingredients Grains make up about 60 percent of the Some (like Pepperidge list, near the or , don’t Whole Grain White weight of bread, so a typical Farm Farmhouse Whole worry.) We found a few exceptions, doesn’t mean all 42-gram slice whole grain. Grain White) have though. Arnold (or Brownberry) contains about more whole wheat has a line of Whole Grains bread. 24 grams of grain. than refined flour, while others (like Some are all whole grain, but some have If 8 of them are Oroweat Whole Grain Country refined white flour as the second ingredi- whole, the bread is White) have more refined than ent (whole-grain flour is first). only one-third whole whole wheat flour. grain. (The govern- The following four claims appear on ■■ 12 Grain or Multigrain. The ment has asked breads that may or may not be 100% number of grains is irrelevant. You to stop using whole grain: could have 100 grains. If they’re “Good Source” claims, SteadyLens (top), Nick Waring (all others). SteadyLens (top), Nick Waring ■■ Whole Grain White. When it comes not whole, who cares? but didn’t insist that to “whole grain white” breads, any- Some Arnold (Brownberry) they do.) ■■ Made with Whole Grain. The Whole Grains breads (like

Photos: © thing goes. Some are made from an claim almost always means made this one) are only part > > > > > whole grain.

NUTRITIONNUTRITION ACTIONACTION HEALTHLETTERHEALTHLETTER ■ ■ SEPTEMBERSEPTEMBER 20082008 13 Bread & Breakfast Double Good? Looking for something sweet for “Double the amount of fiber than tradi- breakfast? Pepperidge Farm Whole tional 100% whole wheat breads,” says Grain Swirl Cinnamon or Cin- the label of Roman All Natural namon with Raisins bread beats Double Fiber bread. a , Danish, or Roman Meal gets its extra fiber from hands down. added . But most double fiber So does Pepperidge Farm’s breads add inulin, soy fiber, fiber, line of Breakfast Bread made cellulose, and other isolated fibers. with Whole Grains, Real Fruit All but inulin should help keep One of the only 100% & Yogurt. But the bread is only you regular (though not as well as Its extra fiber comes whole-grain raisin about half whole grain. And ev- wheat bran). But so far, there’s no from isolated fibers, breads. ery slice contains less yogurt than evidence that any isolated fibers are not bran. you’d get in a sixth of a teaspoon of yogurt. (It’s “a good linked to a lower risk of heart dis- source of calcium” only because Pepperidge Farm adds it.) ease and diabetes, like the intact fibers in whole grains are. As for fruit, the Blueberry & Grains variety has no Just make sure that your double fiber bread is whole more than one or two blueberries per slice. The Apple & grain, and that it’s free of the questionable artificial sweet- Grains and Raisin & Grains have slightly more fruit, but ener acesulfame-potassium. Double fibers typically have not much. 5 to 6 grams of fiber per slice.

Stake Your Claim ■■ Light. Light breads are lower in calo- ries (they have about 50 per slice) than Here’s a rundown of some of the many “Reduced most other breads (about 100 per slice). claims that are causing label clutter on sodium” may be And nowadays you can find whole-grain bread packages. the most versions. Just be prepared to squeeze your ■■ Omega-3s. “DHA helps support heart, important filling onto a smaller, airier slice. brain & eye health,” says Oroweat Whole of its eight claims. ■■ Double protein. “12 g of protein in Grain 9 Grain bread. There’s decent evi- 2 slices,” says the Brownberry (or Arnold) dence that DHA (docosahexaenoic acid), Whole Grains Double Protein package. one of the key fish oils, may protect your The extra protein (mostly from wheat glu- heart, though it’s far too early to know ■■ Reduced sodium. It’s one of eight ten and rice) can move you a little closer if it can help preserve your memory or claims on the label of Oroweat Whole to your daily goal—protein (in grams) vision. Every slice of Oroweat has about Grain Active Health bread, but it’s one of equal to about half your weight (in as much DHA (18 milligrams) as half a the most important. A single slice of most pounds), or around 60 grams of protein a teaspoon of salmon. breads contains no more than 250 mg day for someone who weighs 125 pounds. At least Oroweat adds DHA. Some of sodium, but because we eat so much Shopping tip: many breads that make breads that contain flax get all of their bread, the milligrams add up. Admira- no protein claim have 10 to 12 grams of omega-3s from the ALA (alpha-linolenic bly, Active Health cuts the sodium down protein in two slices. acid) that’s found naturally in flaxseed. to 140 mg per slice. Natural Ovens Bakery, ■■ Calcium & D. “Calcium for There’s little evidence that ALA can pro- a Midwest , goes further. Its breads stronger bones and teeth,” says Earth- tect your heart like DHA does. range from 100 to 130 mg per slice. Bravo! Grains Double Fiber bread. “ ■■ Heart healthy. A claim like “heart ■■ Prebiotic. “For Digestive Health,” says to help maximize the absorption of cal- healthy” means nothing because it Oroweat’s Active Health label. Why be cium into the body.” True enough. needs little or no evidence (since it precise when you don’t have to? In fact, Just keep in mind that some calcium- doesn’t mention a disease). In contrast, inulin, the isolated fiber that Oroweat adds fortified breads have as much as 100 “may reduce the risk of heart disease” to Active Health, may spur the bifidobacte- or 150 milligrams per slice. That’s fine requires approval from the Food and ria in your gut to grow. But there’s no evi- if you’re a woman, but there’s some Drug Administration. dence that more bifido makes you healthier. evidence that men who consume more So far, the FDA has approved a heart ■■ No high fructose corn syrup. HFCS isn’t than 1,500 mg of calcium a day have a disease claim for breads that are at least good for you, but it’s no worse than ordi- higher risk of prostate cancer. 51 percent whole grain. But it also allows nary or other refined sweeteners. And As for vitamin D, the 30 to 80 IU in a heart disease claim on almost any food breads don’t have much of either. You’re each slice of bread with added D can that is low in saturated and cholesterol worse off with poorly tested acesulfame-po- nudge you toward the daily target recom- (and not high in sodium). And that claim tassium, an artificial sweetener that’s added mended by most researchers (1,000 IU). can appear on nearly all breads. to some breads (like Oroweat Active Health).

14 NUTRITION ACTION HEALTHLETTER ■ SEPTEMBER 2008 )

BRAND-NAME RATING

milligrams ( Calories Sodium Fiber (grams) ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm 100% Natural Sprouted Wheat 100 180 3 Good in Bread ✔✔ Roman Meal Roman Whole Grain 100 180 3 We only looked at whole-grain breads (or breads with a trivial ✔✔ Roman Meal Golden Flax & 110 180 3 amount of refined white flour) that are sold nationally or are pro- ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm Whole Grain 15 Grain 120 180 3 duced by major regional bakers. We didn’t look at store brands ✔✔ Roman Meal All Natural Honey Wheatberry 100 180 2 or breads sold in health food stores. Best Bites ( ✔✔ ) contain ✔✔ Arnold or Brownberry Whole Grains Double Fiber 100% Whole Wheat 90 190 6 no more than 200 milligrams of sodium per slice. Honorable ✔✔ EarthGrains Double Fiber 1 110 190 5 Mentions ( ✔ ) can have up to 250 mg. We disqualified breads ✔✔ Oroweat Whole Grain 100% Whole Wheat 90 190 3 made with the poorly tested artificial sweetener acesulfame- ✔✔ Nature’s Own All Natural Honey Wheat potassium. Breads are ranked from least to most sodium, then made with Organic Flour 100 190 3 most to least fiber, then least to most calories. ✔✔ Arnold or Brownberry Whole Grains German Dark Wheat 110 190 3 ✔✔ Nature’s Own All Natural Honey 110 190 3 ✔✔ Bread (1 slice—about 1.5 oz., unless noted) Arnold or Brownberry Whole Grains 15 Grain 120 190 3 ✔✔ Sara Lee Heart Healthy Homestyle 100% Whole Wheat 100 190 2 Calories Sodium(milligrams) Fiber 150 mg of sodium or less (grams) ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm Whole Grain Golden Harvest Grains 110 200 4 ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm Stoneground 100% Whole Wheat (1 oz.) 70 90 2 ✔✔ Roman Meal 100% Whole Wheat 100 200 3 ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm Whole Grain 100% Whole Wheat 1 Small Slice (1 oz.) 70 100 2 ✔✔ Rubschlager -Ola Black Rye or Sunflower 110 200 3 ✔✔ Natural Ovens Bakery Whole Grain Naturals1 100 110 4 ✔✔ Sara Lee Hearty & Delicious Oat with 100% Whole Grain 120 200 3 ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm Whole Grain Small Slice (1 oz.) 70 120 2 ✔✔ Arnold or Brownberry Country Oatmeal 100 200 2 ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm Whole Grain 15 Grain Small Slice (1 oz.) 80 120 2 ✔✔ Roman Meal All Natural 100% Whole Grain 100 200 2 ✔✔ Natural Ovens Bakery Organic PLUS 100% Whole Wheat 120 130 4 More than 200 mg of sodium ✔✔ Sara Lee Heart Healthy Classic 100% Whole Wheat (1 oz.) 70 130 2 ✔ Pepperidge Farm 100% Natural German Dark Wheat 100 210 3 ✔✔ Sara Lee Soft & Smooth 100% Honey Wheat (1 oz.) 70 130 2 ✔ Arnold or Brownberry Whole Grains Double Protein ✔✔ Oroweat Master’s Best (1 oz.) 90 130 2 Hearty Multigrain 110 210 3 Oroweat Whole Grain Active Health# 90 140 5 ✔ Sara Lee Hearty & Delicious—100% Multi-Grain, 100% Whole Wheat, or 100% Whole Wheat with Honey 1 120 210 3 ✔✔ Arnold or Brownberry Stoneground 100% Whole Wheat (1 o z.) 70 140 2 ✔ Nature’s Own All Natural 12-Grain 90 220 3 ✔✔ Sara Lee Soft & Smooth 100% Whole Wheat (1 oz.) 70 140 2 ✔ Arnold or Brownberry Whole Grains 100% Whole Wheat 110 220 3 ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm Whole Grain Swirl 1 100 150 3 ✔ EarthGrains 100% Natural 7-Grain 120 220 3 ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm Farmhouse Soft 100% Whole Wheat 110 150 3 ✔ EarthGrains 100% Natural 100% Stone Ground ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm Whole Grain 100% Whole Wheat 110 150 3 Whole Wheat 120 220 3 ✔✔ Home Pride Whole Grains Honey Whole Wheat (1 oz.) 80 150 2 ✔ EarthGrains 100% Natural Wheat Berry with Honey 120 220 3 ✔✔ Wonder 100% Whole Grain (1 oz.) 80 150 2 ✔ Baker’s Inn 9 Grain or 100% Whole Wheat 1 110 220 2 160-200 mg of sodium ✔ Roman Meal All Natural Superseed 110 230 3 Oroweat Double Fiber # 70 160 6 ✔ Nature’s Own All Natural—100% Whole Wheat 1 ✔✔ Arnold or Brownberry Natural Flax & Fiber (1 oz.) 80 160 4 or 100% Whole Wheat made with Organic Flour 100 240 3 ✔✔ Arnold or Brownberry Natural 100% Whole Wheat (1 oz.) 90 160 3 ✔ Baker’s Inn Honey Whole Wheat 100 250 3 ✔✔ Oroweat Whole Grain 9 Grain 90 160 3 Light or Low Calorie (1 slice—about ¾ oz., unless noted) ✔✔ Oroweat Whole Grain & Flax 100 160 3 ✔✔ Natural Ovens Bakery Weight Sense Right Wheat 50 70 3 ✔✔ Roman Meal All Natural Muesli 110 160 2 ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm Very Thin Soft 100% Whole Wheat (½ oz.) 40 80 1 ✔✔ Home Pride Whole Grains 100% Whole Wheat (1 oz.) 80 160 1 ✔✔ Weight Watchers 100% Whole Wheat 50 90 3 ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm Whole Grain Double Fiber Weight Watchers Multi-Grain made with Whole Grains# 50 90 2 Soft 100% Whole Wheat 100 170 6 ✔✔ Arnold or Brownberry Bakery Light 100% Whole Wheat 40 100 3 ✔✔ Oroweat Whole Grain Honey Fiber 80 170 4 ✔✔ Nature’s Own 100% Whole Grain Wheat Sugar Free 50 110 2 ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm 100% Natural Honey Flax 100 170 3 ✔✔ Sara Lee 45 Calories & Delightful—100% Multi-Grain ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm Whole Grain Oatmeal 110 170 3 or 100% Whole Wheat with Honey 1 50 110 2 ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm Whole Grain Soft Honey Oat 110 170 3 ✔✔ Oroweat Light 100% Whole Wheat 40 120 4 ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm Whole Grain Soft Honey Whole Wheat 110 170 3 ✔✔ Nature’s Own 100% Whole Wheat (1 oz.) 50 120 2 ✔✔ Wonder Stoneground 100% Whole Wheat (1 oz.) 80 170 2 ✔✔ Nature’s Own Wheat ‘n Fiber (1 oz.) 60 150 2 ✔✔ Roman Meal All Natural Multi-Whole Grain 100 170 2 ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm Carb Style 1 60 160 3 ✔✔ Roman Meal All Natural Whole Grain Sweet Crunch 100 170 2 ✔✔ Best Bite. ✔ Honorable Mention. 1Average. ✔✔ Roman Meal All Natural Double Fiber 100 180 5 #Contains acesulfame-potassium. ✔✔ Oroweat Whole Grain & Oat with Corowise 90 180 3 ✔✔ Oroweat Country 100% Whole Wheat 100 180 3 Daily Limits (for a 2,000-calorie diet): Fiber: at least 25 grams. Sodium: 1,500 milligrams. ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm 100% Natural 9 Grain 100 180 3 Source: company information. The use of information from this article for com- ✔✔ Pepperidge Farm 100% Natural 100% Whole Wheat 100 180 3 mercial purposes is strictly prohibited without written permission from CSPI.

NUTRITION ACTION HEALTHLETTER ■ SEPTEMBER 2008 15