<<

HoROLOGICAL TIMES July 1999

American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute MOVEMENT SALE!

Low prices on the popular calibers from the •• originator of quartz movement replacements. • + MODEL ~ IZEI FEATURES SALE PRICE MODEL SIZE/ FEATURES SALE PRICE Akita 8JX, (6DB, 5FB) 631• X 8, SIS $5 .95 Hattori PC11 5'h X 6'1,, SIS $5 .95 ETA 801 .004 5'1, x 6'1,, Reg 6.95 Hattori PC21 631• X 8, SIS 4.95 ETA 803.114 8'1,L, Cal 7.95 Hattori VF01 631• X 8, 515 5.50 ETA 805.114 11 'hl, SIS, Cal (3 or 6 o') 6.95 Hattori VX10/VX11 S'h x 6'1•, Reg or Sl5 7.50 3 ETA 901.005 5'h x 6'1•, Reg, (metal plates) 7.50 Hattori Y121 6 1• X 8, 515 4.95 ETA 902.005 6'1•x 8, Reg 4.50 Hattori YL60 4 X 6L 12.95 ETA956.114 7'1•L, SIS, Cal (3 or 6) 10.50 (replaces 1NOO & Y150) ISA 369 6'1· X 8, 51S 5.50 Hattori VX43 11'h L, 51S, Day-Date 9.95 (replaces 7N43 & 8123) ISA 1198112 11'/zl, Sl5 5.50 Harley 315 11'hl, Sl5, Cal 6.95 ISA 1198132 11'/zl, Sl5, Cal 5.95 Harley 751/753 5'h x 631,, Reg or SIS 7.95

• • Dumont #3C Tweezer FREE with purchase of any 12 movements. (An $11.95 Value!)

II Butterfly" l A-T POCKET BUCKLES SPRING BARS DISP AY NEw N~'ltl DOME

Ladies (#325L) $795 ~ #82.2001 $3495 Mens (#325M) 12 or more at $895 Only 1.0mm thick! These new stainless steel spring bars are the $535 thinnest available and feature each These modern 'deployment' very short ends. Ultra thin and type buckles are very single shoulder type make these popular on many . invaluable replacements for Features a dark teakwood base Stainless steel. band and folding clasps on bet­ with a high-gloss finish. Glass ter watches. Kit contains 60 dome measures 3" x 4-1/4" . Compare f

William J. Ewbank: Executive Director COLUMNS James E. Lubic, CMW: Education & Technical Director Technically Watches, By Archie B. Perkins 18 Nancy L. Wellmann: General Manager Thomas J. Pack: Finance Director The Winding and Setting Mechanisms (Continued), Part 14 Stewart Lesemann: Assistant Instructor A Practical Course in Clock Repair, By John P. Kenyon 22 Sharon McManus: Membership Coordinator Mary Beth Huff: Shipping Coordinator Movement Disassembly and Examination Anthony W. DePrato: Audiovisual Manager Repeater, Petite and Grande Sonnerie , By Leo A. Jaroslaw Kelley Knight: Education Coordinator 28 Stacey Hauck: Receptionist/Secretary Seth Thomas Hall Clock, Part 45

HOROLOGICAL TIMES ADVISORY COMMITTEE As a Clockmaker Turns, By J.M. Huckabee 32 Ron DeCorte, CMW: Chairman The Magic Center Finder, Part 2 Roy Hovey Stanley McMahan Robert Ockenden, CMC AWl OFFICERS DEPARTMENTS David A. Christianson, CMW, CMEW: President Ron DeCorte, CMW: First Vice President President's Message, By David A. Christianson 2 Robert D. Porter, CMW: Second Vice President Fred S. Burckhardt, FAWI: Secretary Executive Director's Message, By William J. Ewbank 2 Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI: Treasurer Questions & Answers 4 AWl DIRECTORS Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW Ask Huck, By J.M. Huckabee 6 Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC Rock Quarry, By Fred S. Burckhardt Charles Cleves 12 Wes Door, CMW Bulletin Board 21 Henry Frystak, CMW Tamara Houk Book Reviews, By Robert D. Porter 27 Jack Kurdzionak William 0. Smith, Jr., CMW, CMC, FAWI AWl Material Search 31 Milton C. Stevens, FAWI Sue Ann Wysong, CMEW AWl New Members 37

Dennis J. Warner: Affiliate Chapter Director From the Workshop, By Jack Kurdzionak 42 Kenneth J. Pell: Research & Education Council Director Charles Cleves: Immediate Past President Classified Advertising 44

FELLOWS American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Advertisers' Index 48 Robert F. Bishop J. M. Huckabee James H. Broughton Gerald G. Jaeger Fred S. Burckhardt Robert A. Nelson George Daniels *Hamilton E. Pease *Henry B. Fried Archie B. Perkins SPECIAL INTEREST Josephine F. Hagans William 0. Smith, Jr. Voting Results 26 *Orville R. Hagans Milton C. Stevens Ewell D. Hartman *Marvin E. Whitney 1999 Proposed Amendments to the AWl Constitution Harold J. Herman 'Deceased

Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written per-mission from the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute. Copyright ©1999 by the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute.

HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696. COVER Subscription price for the public is $45.00 per year ($4.50 per copy) in the United States and $50 00 per year ($5.50 per copy outside the U.S), members subscription This month's cover features a is $14.63 which is included with annual dues of $45 00. Periodicals postage paid at Hamson, OH 45030 and additional entries. POSTMASTER: Send address changes caricature of Fred S. Burckhardt, to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, 701 Enterprise Drive, Hamson, OH 45030-1696 the 1999 recipient of "Fellow AWl" President's Message David A. Christianson Twice a year your Board of Directors gathers to conduct the business of A WI at the mid­ year meeting in January and at the annual meeting in June. In January of this year it was a real pleasure to preside over a Board that was excited about the future of A WI and the direction we are taking. A new culture of operation is developing within our Board based on collaboration, cohe­ siveness, and trust. Two very important points came out of the meeting that are responsible for this new culture of operation: 1. The understanding that the Board of Directors controls the Institute and the direction that it takes, with the staff (headed by the Executive Director) providing administrative services for the Board. The Board, however, receives its power from the membership, and its own direction from the various committees of A WI. These committees are made up of members of A WI. What this boils down to is: the members are the heart and soul of AWl, and these committees are our source of ideas and direction. There is good reason why the "President's Message" over the past year has concentrated on the functions of the various committees. These committees are the strength of A WI. Without strong committees, A WI has no future. 2. The AWl Mission Statement that the Board of Directors adopted in January states that the American Watchmak­ ers-Clockmakers Institute is the premier international organization dedicated to preserving and promoting the highest stan­ dards of workmanship in the horological crafts. It is the role of A WI to set the standard of excellence in both the instruction and practice of quality horological repair and restoration work worldwide. All of our committees are working toward these ends; it is the first time we have had a clear understanding of who we are and where we're going. As we go along you'll be able to see some very clear and tangible results. I hope you were moved to be a part of one of these committees. If you weren't, you'll have the opportunity again. The key to the future of AWl is in its members. We're striving to be a member-driven organization where the members will have every opportunity to make A WI into the organization that we all want it to be.

Executive Director's Message William J. Ewbank One of my personal heroes was Ulysses S. Grant. I first came to appreciate the man in my extensive readings about the American Civil War. General Grant is most famous for his exploits as a soldier. Few people are aware that his autobiography is considered one of the great works of Ameri­ can literature. Grant wrote the book in a desperate race against time. The last chapter of the book was finished in a painful scrawl just hours before the General succumbed to a long, painful battle with throat cancer. I am saddened to report that another gallant old soldier has gone to his reward. Colonel Roy Hovey, ret. AWl's lathe 1 course instructor for many years, lost his battle with cancer Tuesday, June l5 h. Like General Grant, Roy's last weeks were spent assembling a legacy. The complete Roy Hovey lathe courses, including all equipment, parts, tools, course materials and the intellectual property created by Roy to support the program, have been transferred to the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute for a very fair settlement value. The Roy Hovey lathe program will continue to benefit A WI and its members for many years to come. Roy Hovey was the first A WI instructor and member that I met. When I received a tour of the facilities on my first day at work in the summer of 1996, Roy happened to be teaching his introductory 12-day lathe course to Academy and Project Extend students. With a twinkle in his eye, my tour guide Jim Lubic left me in Roy's care for an introduction to the lathe course. That was my first exposure to Roy's passion for his course and meticulous detail. An hour of lathe course outlines later, I was slumped in a comer muttering, "No mas! No mas!" Roy extended the same meticulous and painstaking care to the expense vouchers submitted for his travel and teaching costs. I once joked with Roy that I stopped reading them and had been reimbursing him by weight. Although we occasionally had disagreements about business, Roy and I developed a mutual respect and admiration. It is truly a sad duty to report to you the loss of a valued A WI member and friend. Roy's work in the lathe program, a major contribution to the craft of , will live on. For the man himself, I would paraphrase an old movie line: "We ask the Lord in heaven to take to his keeping the soul of our friend and comrade, Roy Hovey. But Lord, we advise that you not take him lightly."

2 Horological Times • July 1999 Wind-Up for Savings! Watch Winders from McCaw Keeps automatic or kinetic watches completely wound. Mounted on base for stability. Eliminates having to reset time, date, and other functions. AC motor (except on Double Winder). Enables lubricating oils to spread evenly for optimum Great for resale to your customers as well. watch operation. Made in Germany. Stainless steel, spring-loaded holder securely holds any Come with one year warranty. automatic watch.

Single Winder Double Winder Four-Head Winder Watch rotates once per minute. Watch rotates clockwise once per Automatically reverses direction. Easily switches from clockwise to minute, stops for three minutes, then Watch rotates clockwise five counter-clockwise. rotates again in the same direction. times per minute, stops for three No. 599.100 Easily switches from clockwise to minutes, then rotates counter­ (Suggested retail $130.00) counter-clockwise. Operates on two clockwise. Automatic, electronic, D-Cell batteries (up to six months) rotation controller simulates wrist or on AC adapter (supplied). action for up to four watches. No. 599.102 Provides I, I 00 rotations daily, in (Suggested retail $299.00) both directions. Watches will not be affected by addition or removal of other watches. Die-cast zinc case and matte black finish. No. 599.1041 (Suggested retail $399.00)

ORDER TODAY! IN STOCK AND READY TO SHIP! Now order via e-mail at [email protected] Be sure to look for our monthly flyer, packed full of savings! 1722 Madison Avenue Toledo, Ohio 43624 Phone:419-243-3720 Wm. S.• McCaw Company 800-472-0200 800-537-0343 WHOLESALE JEWELRY Fax: 419-243-0321 Since 1913 800-245-6481 Questions & Answers

Question the gear train can increase substan­ Answer My repair job has been com­ tially even though it may run easily By your very complete de­ plete (on a pinwheel regulator) but once it is started. Remember that in scription. you have a genuine Ameri­ there is no power on the escape wheel the time train of a clock, the gear train can Waltham 6-size watch, Model regardless of the weight. The endshake stops during the traverse of the escape­ 1890. The unusual name on the dial is is sufficient, I hope, along with the ment and the time train has to restart actually the French spelling of American. meshing of the teeth and the weight is after each "beat." At the time that your watch eight pounds at the present time. Addi­ The normal weight for a pin was made, a jeweler, a wholesaler, or a tional weight does not affect it either wheel regulator is in the 4- to 6-pound distributor could purchase Waltham way. range. The weight on a recent repair movements with factory dials or with The hands are apparently cor­ clock measured just over 5 pounds. The custom-made dials that had their own rect, however, the minute hand fits very 8-pound weight is excessive. names, logos, or anything else printed close to the hour pipe but not touching. David J Carlson, on them. The center post-escape wheel, hour A WI Technical Staff Member Waltham watches were mar­ pipe have been taken down numerous keted worldwide. We don't know if this times, and there appears to be no burrs, was a factory dial or one produced for after dressing them with a stone, but, I Question a watch distributor, but apparently your continue to get no power. The narrow What do I have? It is a 6-size watch was intended for the French­ suspension springs have been replaced Waltham that has, on the dial, speaking trade. on the top block of the . Still Americaine Waltham. Never heard of David A. Christianson, no power to the escape wheel. it. The back has Safety barrel and Technical Editor Howard W Wiseman, American Waltham Watch Co. words. 0 Norfolk, Virginia On the back there is a round pattern that seems to be gold plated. My watch Answer book does not have this information. It From your letter the summary does show the pattern as an 1890 of the problem is "My repair job is model. The serial number is 8716508. complete but there is no power to the Victor C. Broski, escape wheel regardless ofthe weight." Whittier, California Time train problems can be analyzed as loss of power in the gear train or failure of the to deliver sufficient impulse power to the pendulum and sometimes a combina­ tion of both. From your letter, you have done a good job of eliminating normal friction loss problems in the gear train. You don't list the details of your repair but if you had to bush any of the pivot holes, I would be very suspicious that one or more bushings were not on cen­ ter. If the depthing of a gear is incor­ Model 1890, 6 size rect, the power (torque) required to start

4 Horological Times • July 1999 New Items from Borel New sizes added to Borel Series SR Sapphire crystals NEW Plastic Crystal Scratch Remover Now give your customer the best in scratch resis­ tance, a sapphire crystal. Remains scratch free sever­ al times longer than standard mineral. Five new sizes added (215, 220, 225, 230, 235). Best quality. Round shape only. Order #SR & mm size. polyWatch® is a new, special-purpose polishing paste Sizes 160, 165, 168, 170, 175, 178 that can remove scratches from plastic crystals quickly .8 mm thickness. $ 10.00 ea. and cheaply, making them shine like new. Simply 180 -210, 211 - 214, 216- 219, 222, 228, 261-264, 266-269. apply a small amount of polyWatch® to the watch crys­ tal. Use a soft cloth & rub the scratched area for 2-3 .8 thickness. $ 12.00 mm ea. minutes. Each tube contains enough polish for 10-12 215,220,225,230,235,240,245,250,255,260,265,270- applications. Suggested retail is $ 8.25 ea. 310 every tenth mm, 315, & 320. .9 mm thickness. $ 13.00 ea. PS47001 polyWatch® $ 4.95

Gucci Screw Removing Tool Micro Capillary Oiler Set

This is the ideal instrument to oil train wheels pivots I This new Swiss made Gucci Screw Removing Tool in precision watch repair. These oilers allow the cor- is perfect for removing bracelet screws from Gucci rect amount of oil to be placed just where it's sup­ and other high fashion watches. Blades are posed to be. Set of 2 oilers, with tips having .004 recessed in high-impact nylon, so that they cannot and .005 inch hole sizes. We recommend the use of scratch. The body of this unit is made of Keltec II, Moebius synthetic oil reference OL216. Made in the glass-filled nylon, and comes with two extra blades. USA exclusively for Borel. You will never have to struggle again trying to remove a Gucci screw. OL375B $ 16.95

H0119.00 Screw Removing Tool $28.25 Hypo type applicator to insert oil into OL375B oilers. OL42.110 $1.75

Jules Borel & Co. Order Desk 800-776-6858 1110 Grand Boulevard Order FAX 800-776-6862 Kansas City, MO 64106-2348 Local 816-421-6110 Ask Huck

J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FAWI, FBHI Hand Held Cutting Tools for the Bits and Holder for the Lathe Watchmakers' Lathe Slide Rest

Question Question What shape, size, and how many grav­ What size tool bits will I need with a ers are needed for clock work? How are they new lathe slide rest? What shape is best, and sharpened? how are they sharpened?

Answer Answer Unlike bits in a slide rest, you need This is a pretty big subject. You will fewer shapes when using handheld tools. The need at least six tools. These are left-hand turn­ reason is that the tool can be immediately ing, right-hand turning, round nose, cut-off or changed to many different positions. This is also parting, 60° point, and an internal boring tool. an advantage because as the edge dulls, you can Then you will add variations of these shapes. use another portion of the cutting edge. Really About 10-20 cutting edges represent a pretty the handheld tool is faster for finishing work than good group. is the slide-held bit. My tool bits range from 3/32"-W' square; I use bits 3/32" square in W' x 4" cylin­ a cats and dogs group that has evolved over many drical handles, with bit overhang of about 1~". years. However, my choice is a bit that is 1/s'' I have about twenty in number and they all feel squared and 2" or 2W' inches long. This can be alike. ground on each end for double duty; just a con­ Sharpen the bits to various diamond venience and cost-effective situation. shapes and a few with a radius tip. This will take I've never purchased preground bits. care of almost all external turning. They must be ground frequently, so why pay a I grind my tools on a soft-backed disc premium for the first sharpening? It's probably about 25/s'' in diameter. The abrasive is 3M Tri­ most economical to purchase tool bits from a M-Ite in a grit range of 200-400. machine tool supplier. Unground bits in my pre­ The reason for a large number of tools ferred size may cost $2-$4 each (1990). is that I do not need to stop a job to sharpen a Your tool post is an important item. Be new edge. sure the post can accommodate the bits. Bits My experience shows that larger turn­ should fit so the range of height adjustment is ing is best done with the bit presented as in the about I/I6'' above and below the lathe spindle machine tool industry. This is very different center height. from the classic instruction on watchmaker's Not all slide rests are the same height, lathe work. and the same is true for watchmakers' lathe When removing larger amounts of ma­ spindles. The tool holder may require some terial the tool must be frequently sharpened. This modification if your equipment is from a mixed is not very time efficient if sharpening is by hand, source. Even so, this does not affect the ulti­ on an oilstone. mate function of the tools. As you expand your lathe work, you will You will need a bench grinder, with find that a variety of special bit shapes will be about 150-grit wheel as a tool sharpener. needed. Most will be obvious at the time of need. 0

6 Horological Times • July 1999 Stainless Steel Double Flange Spring Bars

100 piece assortments;

Regular 1.80 mm #SB031 $19.95 Thin 1.50 mm #SB029 $19.95 Extra-Thin 1.3 0 mm #SB027 $19.95 Gaskets for as little as 10¢

1000 piece combination assortment including both 0-Ring and Flat gaskets. The most complete assortment on the market. #WM50.999 $99.00 ~0 ~ ~0 Gaber & Company Pittsburgh, PA 800-792-2820 Fred S. Burckhardt Honored as a Fellow of the AWl

At the 1999 annual meeting of the American all aspects of the jewelry store and its craftsmen. It can Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute, Frederick Schmidt truthfully be said that Fred's humorous writings have added Burckhardt was named a "Fellow of the AWL" This high­ another dimension to our magazine; many of our mem­ est honor is conferred on individuals who have enriched bers say that "Rock Quarry" is the first column they read the field of horology by outstanding and meritorious con­ each month. tributions, on a national or international level. "Shop Management" is the title of Fred's lectures Fred has served AWl as an elected member of the that teach the practical business knowledge needed by ho­ Board of Directors continuously since 1982, excepting only rologists and jewelers to be successful. They are an im­ the years that he was constitutionally ineligible. He served portant part of our Bench Courses and our AWl Project as AWI President from 1984 to 1986, and as Secretary Extend. The lectures are based on his many years of expe­ most of the years since 1990. Fred is serving as Chairman rience as a craftsman, a shop manager, and a store owner. of the ELM Trust and has served as the chairman of the Fred has served our industry in many capacities in Nominations for Board Committee and the Publicity and addition to his affiliation with the A WI. He has written Public Relations Committee for many years. He also served articles for the Independent Jeweler and the Southern Jew­ as chairman of the Membership Committee, and as a mem­ eler. He has lectured at Texas Christian University and ber of countless other AWI committees. served in an advisory capacity for the Paris Junior Col­ "Rock Quarry," Fred's column in the Horological lege. He has served Texas Watchmakers Association as Times, was introduced in the January 1979 issue and con­ Secretary-Treasurer and as President. He has also been tinues to be an important part of our magazine. While it the President of the Forth Worth Watchmakers & Jewel­ initially was subtitled "Basic Gemology for the Repair ers Guild as well as a director of the Texas Jewelers Shop," it soon became a column that satirically covered Association.

8 Horological Times • July 1999 Fred's technical background is extensive. He be­ in the U.S. Air Force. Near the end ofhis military service, gan working in the jewelry field when he graduated from he met Edith Gable; he made the best decision of his life high school. He graduated as a Senior Watchmaker from when he asked her to marry him less than five months the Philadelphia College of Horology in 1955. He com­ later. Fred and Edith have three wonderful children: Linda pleted diamond and colored-stone courses with the (Chrysler), Frederick, Jr. (deceased, 1990), and Jonathan. Gemological Institute of America and became a "Regis­ They now have four grandchildren and one great-grand­ tered Jeweler" with the American Gem Society. He learned child. In 1991 he semiretired and continues to work three engraving at S. Kind & Sons in Philadelphia. days a week at "Jewelers on the Boulevard," owned by In 1963 Fred opened his own trade shop in Fort their children. He maintains his skills as a watchmaker Worth, Texas and in 1971 became the store manager for and clockmaker. Deeds Jewelers,carrying this responsibility for nearly Fred S. Burckhardt has accomplished much. He twenty years. In 1988 he opened his own store in Fort has responsibly and capably filled the roles as husband, Worth named "Fred's Watch & Jewelry Shop," which he father, grandfather, great-grandfather, watchmaker, transferred to his daughter, Linda, and her husband, Den­ clockmaker, jewelry repairman, engraver, appraiser, sales­ nis, in 1991. person, store manager, speaker, writer, association officer, 1 Fred was born on January 25 h, 1929 in Philadel­ committee chairman, and as a special and valuable friend phia, Pennsylvania, the youngest of ten children. His to many of us. God Bless you, Fred, for all you've done German-born father died when Fred was only nine years and for who you are today. old. Following high school graduation, he spent four years Ewell D. Hartman

Harry Eckroth and Fred S. Burckhardt managed Deed's Jewelers.

July 1999 • Horological Times 9 1947: Fred is hard at work in a jewelry store.

Fred graduated from Northeast High School in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.

Fred at the 1992 mid-year meeting of the AWl Board of Directors.

Fred Burckhardt and the late Buddy Fred Burckhardt speaking at the Texas Legislature in the Carpenter hit the dance floor during the early 1970s concerning licensing law. 1995 Banquet and Awards Ceremony.

10 Horological Times • July 1999 Save$$on- Brands

LIMITED TIME OFFER- VALID JULY 1 THROUGH SEPTEMBER 30, 1999 Clock PrepCiean Buy a Quantrex Cleaning Buffing Compound 90 Ultrasonic Solution Remover Cleaning Concentrate Concentrate System

Buy 3 Gallons Buy 3 Gallons Get a 32 Ounce Get the Get the UllraDose® 4th Gallon 4th Gallon Jewelry FREE! FREE! Cleaning Product Code134 Product Code 078 Powder Ultrasonic Cleaning With Corrosion inhibitor for FREE! Solution for Clock parts plating and finishing $14 Retail Value

water based makes operations Quantrex 90 Product Code 11606 parts shine Ultradose Jewelry Cleaner Product Code 080 Call your L&R Dealer today for complete details

L&R Manufacturing Company 577 Elm Street, Kearny, PO Box 607, NJ 07032-0607 USA 201-991-5330 FAX: 201-991-5870 E-mail: [email protected] Rock Quarry Watchmakers .... a Vanishing Breed

The following is a reprint from 'The Rock Quarry" column in Horological Times, April 1982. Fred S. Burckhardt, FA WI

Some people say that by the year 2000, "Okay, put my name down, but if it there will be very few watchmakers left practic­ takes that long just to find out what's wrong, ing their profession. This may be true. As for how long will it take to get it repaired?" he asks. myself, I don't plan to go anywhere. Those of "Sorry," she says. "We don't give prom­ us who are left should have it made. Let's look ise dates, and we do require payment in full be­ forward into the year 2000 and imagine what it fore the work is started." will be like for those watchmakers who will be "What ifl decide not to have it repaired the last of a vanishing breed. after it is checked?" he asks. We are now in the year 2000, in a very "Then, you'll only have to pay a slight atypical jewelry store-one of the few that has service charge of$50 for the estimate," she says. a watchmaker. As a customer walks into the "Fifty dollars for an estimate," he says. store, he is greeted by one of the sales "That's almost as much as I paid for the watch personnel. .. 15 years ago!" "Good morning. May I help you?" she "Please, you're raising your voice again. asks. I hope he didn't hear you," she says as she looks "Yes, I would like to have the watch­ toward the shop. maker check my watch. It's been stopping," he Just then, the door of the shop opens and answers. the sound of heraldic trumpets fills the air. Sud­ "Do you have an appointment?" the denly, there appears in the doorway a figure clerk asks. clothed in pure white with each hand resting on "Appointment? No," the customer an­ a satin pillow held by two young apprentices. It swers. "I didn't know I had to have one." is an awesome sight to behold. "I'm sorry, but you can't just walk in The figure speaks, "Someone shouted and expect our watchmaker to check your watch as I was about to straighten a hairspring on an without an appointment," she says. "Let me look antique watch. The noise caused me to slip. Now and see when the next available time will be. it's ruined." How about two weeks from today at 10:37?" The customer, overcome with rever­ she asks. ence, drops to his knees and says, "Oh, Great "Two weeks!" the customer exclaims. Keeper of Time, forgive me for raising my "Do you mean to tell me it will be two weeks voice." before he can check my watch?" The great white figure says, "I simply "Shhh, please keep your voice down," cannot work under these conditions," and pro­ says the clerk. "He might hear you and get up­ ceeds to walk out of the store. set. Then he may not even want to look at your The clerk chides the man, "Now look watch." what you have done. He probably won't be back "Well I think I'll go somewhere else," for several days. I hope he doesn't go to his villa he says. on the coast, or it will be longer than that before The clerk says, "We have the only he gets back." watchmaker in this area. The nearest one is over "Why does he get so upset?" the man 300 miles away, and he's booked up until next asks. year. I'll put your name on the list but please "You just don't know about the hard life don't be late or you'll interfere with his 10:45 he has had," the clerk says. He's been repairing coffee break and that will ruin his whole day." watches for many years and at one time had a

12 Horological Times • July 1999 very good business. In 1978, he lost everything. He said something one time about buying too many LEDs and couldn't get rid of them." "What's an LED?" the man asks. "It was some kind of timepiece they had back then," she says. "I never heard of it," he says. "I don't think they were around too long," she answers. "I see. Well maybe I'd better consider a new watch instead of having this repaired. It may be a long time be­ Watch Winders fore he can get to it. Let me look at some while I am here." Made in Germany, these winders are the most affordable on the The clerk says, "Over here we have a new line of market today. All come with a one year warranty. 599.100 599.102 599.1041 watches that are very inexpensive. The concept is, when it stops running, just throw it away and buy a new one." "That sounds like a real winner," says the man. "Whoever thought of that had a great idea. If someone had thought of it a long time ago, we wouldn't need any watch­ makers now." As they are looking at the watches, a middle-aged woman walks into the store. The clerk tells the man to take his time looking at the watches, and she goes to help the woman. When she gets over to the repair counter, the Single Winder #599.1 00 woman hands her a repair claim check yellowed with age. Rotates the watch once every minute. Motor is mounted on an She tells the clerk she would like to pick up her watch. acrylic stand. Rotation can be switch from clockwise to counter­ clockwise by pulling out and pushing in the electric plug. Unit is After spending several minutes looking for it, the clerk A/C powered only. asks the woman what was being done to it. The woman Suggested Retail $130.00 tells her it had to be cleaned and several parts replaced. Your Cost $12.50 each, [$&5.25 for 3 or morel The clerk goes into the shop and after several more minutes she returns and says, "I'm sorry, but your watch isn't ready yet. The watchmaker is still waiting for a part." Double Winder #599.1 02 "But I left it back in 1982," says the woman. Winder can be run on 2-D-Cell batteries for up to 6 months or an a "Sometimes it takes a while to get the material he supplied A/C adapter. Rotates once every minute, then pauses for 3 minutes before continuing the rotation clockwise, & can be reversed needs," says the clerk. by a flip of the switch located on the underside of the winder. "Would you please ask the watchmaker to try to Suggested Retail $299.00 get it finished?" pleads the woman. "It was a present for Your Cost $124.99 each, [$112.49 for 3 or moral my 21'1 birthday, and I only wore it for a year." "I'll mention it to him when he returns," says the clerk. "But, please don't rush him. These things take time 4-Head Winder #599.1 041 you know." This unit reverses itself automatically. It rotates clockwise 5 times The woman leaves, and the clerk returns to the per minute, rests for three minutes, then reverses itself to counter­ clockwise. Rotation is controlled by an automatic electronic man. He selects a watch, pays for it and leaves. controller with built in random check generator. Case is die cast zinc In less than an hour, the man returns with his new with extra long A/C cord. watch. "This thing quit running," he says. Suggested Retail $399.00 "Sorry," says the clerk. "Our watchmaker doesn't Your Cost $199.50 each, [$119.55 3 or morel work on these watches, so you'll have to return it to the factory." "Are you kidding? It's a brand new watch," he says. "Too bad," says the clerk. "If you read the guar­ antee, you'll see that we're not responsible for them. They have to be returned to the factory for servicing. You'll have to send it yourself. Anyway, it was so inexpensive, why not throw it away and buy a new one?" 0

July 1999 • Horological Times 13 A Gear Cutter Centering Device for the Watchmakers' Lathe

Part 2 ©1999 (All rights reserved by the author)

Robert D. Porter, CMW

One of the most important requirements Figure 4 shows the setup for cutting a for making watch and clock wheels and pinions watch gear. An old Bulova Accutron™ micro­ is to be able to precisely center the gear cutter scope has been mounted on a post and riser with the vertical centerline of the lathe spindle. block, giving us a magnified view of the cutter Figures 2 and 3 picture a useful device that makes and the point of the centering device somewhat this job easier. The device is keyed in place with as illustrated in Figure 5. We can check the two locator buttons that are a very close sliding runout and wobble of the gear cutter by rotating fit to the slot in the lathe bed. the milling spindle by hand. Even though we can center the gear cut­ Figure 6 is a sketch of the gear cutter ter with the lathe center, the milling attachment centering device. The base of the prototype was may not track exactly vertical as it is raised to made of }3/g" diameter aluminum. The pointer cutting position, with the result that we can end is a straight piece of3!I6'' (.1875") diameter drill up with leaning or off-center teeth on the wheel rod, 5" long, with a 60 degree point turned and or pinion we are cutting. The centering device polished on one end. The locator buttons are helps to reduce this error to a minimum. made of steel, and are attached to the base as

Figure 3.

Figure 2. Figure 4.

14 Horological Times • July 1999 Do your business and the environment a favor by saying 'Goodbye' to all those expensive, disposable air cans. Get your Zantech compressor system TODAY! Zantech's compressor system has a unique dual trigger action that is capable of spraying dry filtered air, as well as PlastiCLEAN™ Solvent. Safely dissolve dry oils and other contaminants (without disassembly of the gear train), all with the ease of a foot-switch activated system that is quiet enough for a retail environment. The cost of cleaning one movement with the Zantech compressor system averages only 10 cents per movement! Each Kit includes: 1 - Dual-Action Spray Gun 1 - Qt. PlastiCLEANTM solvent 1 - 2 oz and 3/4 oz Jar with cover 1 - Pair Movement Grippers 1 -Airbrush Holder 1 - Compressor Air-Hose 1 - In-line Moisture Filter 1 -1/4" Female Pipe Thread Fitting Discover the Zantech Compressor System to save time AND money.

Don't blow dirt all over. .. Suck it up! Precision vacuum systems have been used in quality watch production factories for many years. Now, Zantech's vacuum system offers the same capabilities at less than half the expense. We combined a quiet and compact compressor, a vacuum with soft bristles, and a handy foot switch to give you a safe and efficient way to remove dust and debris from delicate electronic circuit boards and components. Perfect for black dials. Kit Includes: foot switch-operated; quiet vacuum pump; finger-tip control stylus with soft white vacuum brush; and a flexible hose with in­ line filter.

ORDERS ONLY (800) 441-7569 • PHONE (309) 692-8326 • FAX (309) 692-8375 • E-MAIL ORDERS: [email protected] Figure 5.

Figure 7.

shown in Figure 7. The elon­ gated slot in one side of the base 13/a" DIA. allows us to precisely center the point ofthe device with the lathe DRILL #15 (.180") center (Figure 3) before locking AND REAM .1875" the buttons in position. The slot­ ted side should always be posi­ tioned toward the tailstock end of the lathe. We will show the ma­ chining method used to make sure the base and pointer are as square as we can make them in Part 3. 0 t 7/a"

T MAKE TWO STEEL ALIGNMENT BUTTONS, 3/a" LONG. DIAMETER TO BE A CLOSE SLIDING FIT TO LATHE BED SLOT. DRILL #43 (.089") & TAP 4-40. 2 REQUIRED.

Figure 6.

16 Horological Times • July 1999 European Qyality at an Mfordable Price AWl BERGEON Fiscal Year End STAKING TOOL with Base AWI' s fiscal year end is June 30, No.5285D 1999. Those parties who have pro­ vided goods and services to A WI up to and including June 30, 1999 must submit those claims or invoices to A WI no later than July 31, 1999. This includes chapter and individual ex­ Die-cast alloy frame with matte chromed finish. Uses pense reimbursement claims. 4.7mm punches. Knurled nut enables adjustment of side Claims or invoices received af­ shake. All punches and stakes are numbered and assembled in a corresponding numbered gilded plate. ter that date will be subject to addi­ A special tool for removing punches from plate included. tional review by our accounting firm. Add base rising tool, allowing the use of punches as They are also subject to not being stakes. Kit includes full range of 100 punches and 20 paid by AWL stakes in wooden case. Thank you in advance for your For distributors in your area or for more information please contact us at: consideration and attention to this ~\\lET il.f matter. Phone: 800-998-4467 (:; @ ~111 Fax: 800-758-4467 ~~___... http://www.grobetusa.com e-mail: bestfit@atl. bellsouth.net Carlstadt, NJ 07072

TIME FOR ACCURACY I "- WITSE:HI 's waterproof tester '-/ -the ALC 2000 Tested in Europe and found to be the most accurate! • user-friendly fully automatic measurement programs • flexible- tests vacuum and pressure vacuum (up to -0.8 bar) and pressure (up to 10 bar), separately or combined • programmable 10 customer specific test programs • multi-lingual 9language choices: Eng., Fr., Ger., It., Sp., and the 4 Scandinavian languages • practical automatic locking and release of the pressure chamber • fast automatic or manual from 10 to 300 sec. • future-orientated assured by a 16-bit processor • able to print results WITS CHI printer (Citizen) or printer with serial interface I -" Witschi Electronics USA, Inc. 303 Broad Street • Palmyra, NJ 08065 WITS CHI Tel .: 609-829-1179 • Fax: 609-829-2266 "-./.'swJ BASEDFIRM Tel.: 1-800-882-7977 (U.S., Can. & Mexico only) www.witschiusa .com • e-mail: [email protected]

July 1999 • Horological Times 17 Technically Watches

Pocket Watches and Their Maintenance Part 14 The Winding and Setting Mechanisms (Continued)

Archie B. Perkins, ©1999 (All rights reserved by the author) CMW, FAWI, FNAWCC, FBHI The South Bend Negative Winding and stem. The winding pinion fits on a shoulder of Setting Mechanism the winding arbor sleeve. The clutch pinion has Negative winding and setting mecha­ a square hole that fits the square of the winding nisms are basically the same in most respects arbor. The clutch pinion is free to move back but designed differently by each watch company. and forth on the winding arbor square when the Although there are different designs, they all mechanism is shifted from winding to setting achieve the same goals in shifting the mecha­ positions. nism from winding to setting position and vice The clutch pinion has ratchet teeth on versa. Note: Negative type mechanisms require one end to engage with the ratchet teeth of the that the winding stem be held in the pendant of winding pinion when the mechanism is in the the watch case by a sleeve so the stem can be winding position. The other end of the clutch moved in and out to shift the mechanism. The pinion has conventional type teeth that engage stem and sleeve are considered watch case with the teeth of the minute wheel for setting materials. the watch when the mechanism is in the setting Figure I shows the negative winding position. and setting mechanism that was made by the The clutch pinion's position on the South Bend Watch Company. This illustration winding arbor is controlled by the clutch lever. shows the mechanism from the dial side of the When the watch movement is removed from its watch movement. This winding and setting case, the mechanism will automatically shift into mechanism has a winding arbor sleeve which the setting position. In this position, the watch has a square hole that fits the square ofthe wind­ will stop after a short time. To time the watch ing arbor as well as the square of the winding out of its case, the mechanism must be shifted into the winding position. A switch cam is used __ ------r-----r ------by South Bend to shift the clutch into the wind­ , I ing position. This is shown in Views "a" and I I-WINDING ARBOR I SLEEVE "b," Figure 1. View "a" shows the action of the ---,-':::~ switch cam when the clutch pinion is shifted into the winding position with the use of the cam. The switch cam is a plug that fits into a hole in the barrel bridge as shown in View "b," Figure 1. The switch cam is held in its hole by a spring called the switch spring. The plug has an off-set pin in its lower end that shifts the setting lever so it causes the clutch pinion to engage the teeth of the winding pinion when the switch cam is turned in the direction of the arrow with a screwdriver. The clutch pinion will be held in the winding position until the switch cam is turned in the reverse direction to shift the clutch into the setting position. Figure 2 shows the winding and setting mechanism from the inside of the lower plate. Figure I. The mechanism is in the setting position. The

18 Horological Times • July 1999 clutch lever and the setting lever are held together by a the following manner. The winding stem is first pushed wire clutch lever spring. Each lever is held onto a shoul­ inward to the winding position. When this is done, the der on the lower plate by a screw. One end of the setting winding arbor is pushed inward which moves the end of lever works against the end of the pilot of the winding the setting lever downward in the direction of the arrow. arbor. The other end of the setting lever is shaped similar This causes the heel end of the lever to move in the direc­ to the club tooth of an escape wheel. The heel at the end tion of the arrow. When this occurs, the action of the clutch of the setting lever works against an angular surface on lever spring causes the tail of the clutch lever to follow the the tail of the clutch lever. The other end of the clutch setting lever. The other end of the clutch lever that is en­ lever works in a groove in the clutch pinion. gaged in the clutch pinion slot pushes the clutch pinion The operation of this winding and setting mecha­ upward to engage the teeth of the winding pinion which nism is as follows. When the winding stem is pulled out­ places the mechanism into the winding position. The ar­ ward to a setting position, the pressure of the winding stem rows show the direction of motion of the parts in the mecha­ against the square end of the winding arbor is lessened nism when the winding stem is pushed inward. somewhat. The winding arbor moves upward from the pres­ sure of the setting lever against the pilot end of the wind­ The Positive Type Winding and Setting Mechanism ing arbor. This pressure is caused by the pressure of the The positive type winding and setting mechanism clutch lever spring on the end of the setting lever. When is one that uses a winding stem or arbor which is part of the setting lever changes position, the heel at the end of the movement and is held in the movement by a set lever the setting lever acting on the tail of the clutch lever causes and its screw. The arbor or stem can be removed from the the other end of the clutch lever to shift the clutch pinion movement by loosening the set lever screw. The screw from a winding position to a setting position. See arrows has a smaller head than the bridge screws and is located which show the direction of the motion of each lever, in­ near where the winding stem enters the movement. The cluding the winding arbor and clutch pinion, when the stem winding crown screws onto the threaded end of the wind­ is pulled outward. ing stem or arbor. Figure 3 shows the South Bend winding and set­ Figure 4 shows an Elgin positive type winding and ting mechanism in a winding position. The mechanism is setting mechanism. This illustration is of the dial side of shifted from the setting position to the winding position in the movement. This winding and setting mechanism is Summer Soecial trom -WINDING STEM BATT· · Nle AMERICA'S # 1 WATCH BATTERY DISTRIBUTOR The BATT-TRQNIC'Watch Battery Professional Starter Kit 225 Silver Oxide Batteries 40 Most Popular Sizes Accounts for 97% of all sales! Suggested ONLY Retail $1,350 $11999 The BAn·TRQNic· 3 Volt Lithium 57 Lithium Batteries 14 Most Popular Sizes ONLY Suggested Retail $342 $3599 5o/o OFF When You Purchase BOTH Battery Cabinet Systems Professional Starter Kit & Lithium Battery System

Toll Free Phone: 1-800-431-2828 Phone: 1-914-359-8858 Toll Free Fax: 1-888-BATT-FAX Fax: 1-914-359-3436 Ask for our 1999 Catalog! ~~ ==lm Member Jewelers Board of Trade Figure 2.

July 1999 • Horological Times 19 shown in a winding position. The mechanism is covered pos1hon. This spring arm has two notches where it works with a minute wheel clamp which is usually called a set­ against the set lever pin. The outer notch is for the wind­ ting bridge by Swiss companies. This bridge holds down ing position and the inner notch is for the setting position. the clutch lever and its spring as well as the minute wheel When the winding arbor is pulled outward for set­ and any setting wheels. The bridge usually has a spring ting the watch, the arm of the setting lever goes up an arm that works against a pin on the tail of the setting lever incline plane on the clutch lever which shifts the clutch that holds the setting lever in the winding or setting lever and clutch pinion downward into the setting posi­ tion. When the pin on the setting lever reaches the second notch in the setting spring, the arm on the setting lever will be on a plateau on the clutch lever. The mechanism will then be locked into the setting position with the clutch teeth engaged in the minute wheel teeth. (See Figure 5 for this position.) Figure 5 shows the Elgin winding and setting mechanism in the setting position with the clutch teeth engaged with the minute wheel teeth. The arm of the set­ ting lever is positioned on the plateau of the clutch lever and the pin on the setting lever is in the second notch of the setting spring. When the winding arbor is being pushed inward for winding the watch, the pin on the setting lever goes immediately from the second notch in the setting spring to the first notch. This releases the clutch lever allowing the clutch lever to move upward so the clutch teeth can en­ gage the teeth on the winding pinion. The action of the clutch lever spring against the clutch lever causes the clutch lever to shift the clutch pinion into connection with the winding pinion. (See Figure 4 for this position.) "Pocket Watches and Their Maintenance" will Figure 3. continue. 0

Figure 4. Figure 5.

20 Horological Times • July 1999 BULLETIN BOARD We Offer More Choices to

NEW REQUESTS Watchmakers That Take Pride in Their Work... Barr Anniversary Clock Berti! Wikstrom, Needham, MA, is seeking instructions for a Beveled-Edge Mineral Glass Crystals! Barr Anniversary Clock. The clock is battery operated and was made in Westport, New York.

RESPONSES

No responses were received at press time.

ITEMS STILL NEEDED

Fulton Crystal Company BMG .80mm (12.0-40.0mm) $8.00doz Richard N. Hopson, Pflugerville, TX, is seeking a Fulton Crys­ tal Company catalog which identifies these crystals. RMG l.OOmm (19.0-36.0mm) $8.00doz BMG/T 1.20mm (15.0-3l.Omm) $15.00 doz Business Software Cal Sanford, Abilene, TX, is looking for information on busi­ SMG l.SOmm (16.0-33.0mm) $25.00 doz ness software used in the everyday clock shop, especially in the areas of take-in procedure and repair records. XB 2.00mm (17.5-36.0mm) $25.00 doz

Vibrograf Gradoscope GD 47 SOB 2.50mm (18.0-32.0mm) $25.00 doz Steven J. Ksen, Reseda, CA, is seeking the owner's manual for 3.00mm (26.0-33.0mm) $25.00 doz a Vibrograf Gradoscope GD 4 7. XHB MCT Slightly Domed (26.0-33.0mm) $25.00 doz C&E Marshall Hans Eckert, Orange, CA, is seeking conversion charts for AP Marshall stems. He is also looking for charts for the C&E Including the full line of G & S and Stella. Marshall 10-drawer cabinet. Call for your G & S and BB Perfit reference books.

Heath, Hicks & Perkins Barometer Lewis Kranick, Plymouth, WI, is seeking information on a Heath, Ultraviolet Curing Crystal Cement Hicks & Perkins Barometer. It is English-made, circa early to mid-1900. CE395T Everyday Low Price $2.7 5

Glass Crystals Clark S. Donley, Richmond, VA, is seeking information on the process of making glass crystals from scratch.

Swartchild Co. Material Cabinets John Baxter, Columbus, OH, is seeking copies of cards to iden­ G-S Hypo-Tube Cement tify the contents of Swartchild Co. material cabinets. Some have cards to identifY the contents. The assortments for which he needs CE411 Everyday Low Price $3.50 cards are: I. Assortment #498882 Stems, Swiss 2. Assortment #449901 OE Stems, Set Bridges, Setting Levers Swiss TWIN CITY SUPPLY 3. Assortment #499041Fancy and Antique Pocket Crowns Minneapolis, MN 55426-2823 4. Assortment #499041 Ladies Bracelet and Gents Strap (612) 545-2725 USA: 800-328-6009 Crowns FAX: (612) 545-4715 FAX: 800-328-6001 5. Assortment #498458 Hands 0

July 1999 • Horological Times 21 A Practical Course in Clock Repair Movement Disassembly and Examination

John P. Kenyon, CMC

Prior to dismantling a spring-driven It is composed of a metal insert fitted into a plas­ clock movement the power in the tic handle and a double-end key designed to slide must be immobilized. are ex­ into the insert, where it is held in place by a ten­ tremely powerful and it is essential that a safe sion spring. The double-end keys are available method be used to relieve the power. The aid of in all standard sizes. Another type of let-down an experienced clockmaker should be solicited key is illustrated in Figure 3B. It is made up of a the first time power is released from a main­ hardwood handle in which a steel or brass key spring. shaft has been permanently inserted. It is avail­ An open mainspring (Figure IE) is im­ able in all sizes in either double or single end. mobilized by letting it down into a restraining The third type, the slotted bench key, is shown clamp (Figure 2) with a let-down key. Three in Figure 3C. This one consists of a wooden or types of let-down keys are illustrated in Figure plastic handle into which a brass or steel slotted 3. The most common one is shown in Figure 3A. shaft has been permanently fixed. A clock key

Figure 1. 30-Hour Clock Movement

22 Horological Times • July 1999 Figure 2. Mainspring Clamps Slot for B C Key A is inserted into the slot and used to let down the main­ spring. Figure 3. Let-Down Keys To release mainspring power, you will need an extra hand to hold the movement firmly to the bench. If not available, the movement can be clamped to the bench or held in a vice. It must be held secure so that both hands 2. Place the let-down key over the winding arbor to the are free to maneuver the let down in the following steps: full depth and turn it just far enough in the wind direction to release the tension between the click ratchet arm and 1. If the mainspring is unwound, carefully wind it enough the ratchet gear tooth (Figure 4A). so that a mainspring clamp will fit over it. If the main­ spring is broken there may be some power left in it, so a 3. While holding it in this position, use a small screw­ special clamp (i.e. a screw type automobile radiator hose driver or an awl to raise the ratchet far enough to clear the clamp) will have to be used to restrain it. gear tooth (Figure 4B).

'S 404 WEST 7TH STREET #408 WATCH MATERIAL SUPPLIES Be TOOLS (213) 892-8033 LOS ANGELES, CA 900 14 FAX: (2 1 3) 892-8035

GENUINE MOVEMENTS 1E20B $41.95 ea. 5T32B $59.95 ea. 7T34B $61.95 ea. 1F20A $25.95 ea. 5T52B $63.95 ea. 7T36B $79.9~ ea. lNOOA $25.00 ea. 5Y22A $75.00 ea ..* 7T42B $62.95 ea. lNOlA $25.00 ea. 5Y23A $75.00 ea . • 7T52B $62.95 ea. 1400A $49.95 ea.* 5Y30A $75.00 ea. * BM15A $52.95 ea.* " \\ (SUB Y432B) $27.50 ea~* 5Y31A $75.00 ea. • BM25B $56.95 ea.* 2E20B $34.95 ea. 5Y32A $75.00 ea. • BM32A $56.95 ea.* 2KOOA $45.00 ea. * 5Y39A $75.00 ea. " BM35A $52.95 ea.* 2K01A $45.00 ea.• 5Y94A $25.00 ea .. *' BY21A $37.95 ea .. • 2P20A $56.95 ea. * 5Y95A $25.00 ea.* H601B $69.95 ea. 2Y00A $56.95 ea. * 6F25A $59.95 ea. • HBOlB $44.95 ea. 2Y01A $56.95 ea.* 6M25A $69.95 ea. * 3Y02A $37.95 ea.• 7F3BA $79.95 ea. * GENUINE PULSAR MOV'TS 3Y03A $37.95 ea.• 7M22A $75.00 ea.• V400 $12.95 ea. 3Y09A $37.95 ea. • 7NOOA $25.00 ea. * V401 $12.95 ea. 4K22A $45.95 ea.* 7N01A $25.00 ea. * V500 $9.95 ea. 4NOOD $25.00 ea. 7N22A $25.00 ea.• V501 $9.95 ea. 4N01D $25.00 ea. 7N29A $25.00 ea.• V515 $9.95 ea. 5E20A $45.95 ea.* 7N42A $25.00 ea. • V810 $9.95 ea. 5E29A $37.95 ea.* 7N82A $25.00 ea.• V8ll $9.95 ea. 5H23A $59.95 ea .. * 7T32B $59.95 ea. Yl21E $3.95 ea. * WHILE SUPPLY LASTS!

July 1999 Horological Times 23 Click Spring

Ratchet e Arm

Ratchet:/ Gear Tooth A B ' "' Mainspring Figure 4. Click Assembly

Figure 5. Immobilized Mainspring 4. Carefully release enough pressure from the let-down key handle so that it will tum very slowly in your grip. 6. Now the mainspring is immobilized (Figure 5). It can Allow it to unwind enough to harness the mainspring power be checked by testing for freedom in the train. inside the clamp. An extra hand is helpful to align the clamp to the center of the mainspring, while holding the Use of a clock key or a hand vise for a let-down ratchet arm back and controlling the grip on the let-down tool is very unwise and should be avoided, even if you key handle. plan to release the power one ratchet tooth at a time. This method is likely to result in an accident; also, letting the 5. When the power is completely restrained by the clamp, arbor spin down on its own, (not in your grip), should be move the screwdriver (or awl) enough to allow the ratchet avoided. The sudden discharge of power is certain to re­ to slide back into place on a tooth of the ratchet gear. sult in damage to the ratchet assembly and other parts. After the mainspring power is safely harnessed, remove the taper pin that runs through the hole in the sus­ pension block (Figure lK) to hold suspension spring/pen­ dulum rod (L) in position. Next, remove the suspension spring/pendulum rod from the slot. Arm Carefully lift the end of verge bridge (M) at the verge post and tum it on the plate far enough to clear the post and verge (H). It will be noticed that this bridge is made from spring steel and is extended through a hole in Prying Edge the front plate. Spring action holds it taut while resting in position on the verge post. Now the verge can be lifted \ from the post. \ Remove escape arbor pivot support bridge (N) by \ removing the machine screw that holds it over a position j pin that is set into the front plate. Now, the escape wheel ~ arbor can be removed from the movement. In many Ameri­ ~ can movements, this bridge is not removable and the es­ Figure 6. Prying Levers cape wheel arbor must be removed after the plates are opened. The next step is to remove the taper pin and washer ends formed as shown in the illustration and tempered to from minute wheel post (0). The hour wheel (with the "blue." To use, insert the curved edges under opposite hour pipe attached) can now be removed from the center sides of the cannon pinion and apply even pressure until arbor and the minute wheel/pinion can be removed from the pinion slides off. Screwdrivers should never be used minute wheel post. The cannon pinion (P) which is tightly for this purpose. The cannon pinion also can be removed fitted on the center arbor can be removed with a set of after the movement is dismantled, by resting the back of prying levers (Figure 6). This tool can be made from two the front plate on a slotted or drilled bench block and driv­ pieces of lf4-inch tool steel about 4 inches long with the ing out the pinion with a hollow punch. Next, the movement should be placed on a move­ Test for freedom in the train by installing the ment holder to elevate it enough so that protruding parts wheels (arbors) in their respective locations between the will clear the bench top. Remove the four nuts (or pins) plates. Leave out the mainspring and verge. Apply slight from the pillar posts at the comers of the front plate and pressure to the first wheel and see if the train will spin to a lift off the plate. Carefully study the location of the wheels gentle stop. If not, check for endshake at each pivot. and arbors and make a sketch for further reference. Re­ Endshake is the up and down play of an arbor between the move the wheel/arbors from the back plate. Some of the plates. An arbor with no endshake will cause the train to more common problems to look for are: stop. It is difficult to define the proper amount of endshake. It is learned through experience. a. Click ratchet assembly for wear. While the arbors are in position, hold the escape b. Mainspring for deterioration wheel rigid and tum the first wheel back and forth and (using a mainspring winder). observe the pivot holes. When turning in the forward di­ c. Wheels for bent or broken teeth. rection, pivot hole wear will be at right angles to the line d. Pinions for dirt, wear, and damage. of force; in other words, a loose pivot will move toward e. Escapement for wear and pits. the direction of wear. Make a note oflocations that appear f. Pivots for wear and other damage. to have excess motion. g. Pivot holes for wear. After the movement is thoroughly examined, nec­ h. Pillar threads or taper pin holes for damage. essary repairs should be made and then all the parts cleaned. 1. Winding arbor for wear. 0 J. All previous repairs.

Voting Results 1999 Proposed Amendments to the AWl Constitution

The 1999 Proposed Amendments to the AWl Constitution were approved. Voting results are as follows:

For Against Total Percentage

Change "non profit" to "not for profit" 1140 51 1191 96%

Remove "Committee" from "James M. Dodson Perpetuation Fund Committee" 1136 48 1184 96%

Amend Article Ill, section 1 1126 52 1178 96%

Amend Article Ill, section 2 1113 61 1174 94%

Amend Article VI, section 1 1098 76 1174 94%

Amend Article VIII, section 4 1111 64 1175 95%

Amend Article XVIII, section 11 1115 59 1174 95%

Amend Article XIX, section 1 1103 67 1170 94%

Amend Article XXIV, section 3 1102 70 1172 94%

Amend Article XXIV, section 3(b) 1095 77 1172 93%

Amend Article XXIV, section 3(c) 1096 77 1173 93%

Amend Article XXIV, section 5(a) 1092 79 1171 93%

26 Horological Times . July 1999 Book Review

Armband Chronographen by Wolfgang Salm, published Rolex 2421 Uhren by Kesaharu Imai, published by Callwey by Battenburg Verlag, Augsburg 1998, German text. Verlag, Munchen, German text. The first 15 pages of this 336-page, 8" x 10Yz", "Rolex" is a magic watchword that is synonymous high-quality hard cover book include an introduction to with quality and success. This book offers a pictorial over­ chronographs, a description of nine chronograph move­ view of many of the products the Rolex Company has pro­ ments, a comparison between chronograph and chronom­ duced over the years. The first eight pages of this 144- eter watches, an explanation of watch terminology, and page, 8 'i4" x 11 Yz", hard cover book includes a history of literature sources for further reading. The remainder of the Rolex company, an introduction, and a table of the book is divided into two main parts. contents. Part 1, Chronographs A- Z, consists of287 pages Pages 9 through 142 feature full color photographs featuring 1,971 full color photos of the dial side of me­ in stamp album format of the dial side of a multitude of chanical and quartz chronograph wrist watches. A short Rolex watches. Included are such models as Oyster, Bubble description of the watch, the movement caliber, the year Back, Submariner, Explorer, GMT Master, Chronograph, of introduction (when known), and auction prices in Ger­ Oyster Perpetual, Air King, and Prince. A selection of man marks accompany each near full size picture. pocket watches and ladies wrist watches is also shown. A This book is a photographic art gallery of chrono­ few lines of technical specifications, and European price graph watches marketed by such well-known companies information accompany each picture. as , Blancpain, Breitling, Bulova, Citi­ This high-quality picture book should be useful zen, Eberhard, Gallet, Girard Perregaux, Hamilton, Heuer, to anyone who wishes to collect or restore Rolex watches. IWC, Jaeger Le Coultre, Longines, Minerva, Movado, The pictures provide useful information about the case, Omega, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Seiko, Tissot, Ulysse dial, style of hands, and crown. A German/English dictio­ Nardin, Universal Geneve, Vacheron & Constantine, nary or computer program will help with the text Wakmann, Zenith, etc., as well as a multitude ofless well­ translation. known brands. Reviewed by Robert D. Porter Part 2, beginning on page 296, consists of a long Chairman, Technical Book Review Committee list of brand names, model, caliber, year of introduction, 0 and other pertinent information. Armband Chronographen should be useful to any­ one who collects or restores chronograph wrist watches because the excellent pictures in this book provide impor­ tant information about the case, dial, style of hands, and crown. A German/English dictionary or computer program will help with the text translation. Reviewed by Robert D. Porter Chairman, Technical Book Review Committee

New Price Guide for 2421 ROLEX Watches New Price Guide for 4000 Wrist Chronometers all color US$120.00 incl. airmail EURO 110.- visa/mastercard all serial numbers $80.00 post paid 2000 colorfotos visa/mastercard 4000 "estimated prices" wholesale discounts 4000 "hammer prices" at auction

e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] fax: 01139 0184 48 72 92 fax: 01139 0184 48 72 92 tel: 01139 0184 48 40 48 tel: 01139 0184 48 40 48 ingeborg grundmann ingeborg grundmann also available similar price guides for I.W.C.- ROLEX PATEK PHILIPPE I OMEGA I TAG I HEUER wrist watches

July 1999 • Horological Times 27 Repeater, Petite and Grande Sonnerie Clocks

Seth Thomas Hall Clock, Part 45

Leo A. Jaroslaw ©1999 (All rights reserved by the author)

Introduction The clock we will be discussing in this part is a Seth Thomas Westminster Chime Hall Clock. It warrants discussion in this series due to a very different design of the chime and strike controls. Although much of the details are common, the place­ ment is unusual. With the exception of the star cam and the chime lift lever, all the controls are between the plates. The movement of this particular clock is a ST 74G. According to Tran Duly's original Seth Thomas book there are several variations of the #7 4 movement. Mounting of the movement could be on a seat board or a bracket. The pendulum could be mounted on a bracket or on a stud on the rear plate. Some had a second hand, others did not. Some had a moon dial.

The ST 74G Movement- Figures Figure 45.1. Seth Thomas Hall Clock 45.1, 45.2, and 45.3.

The 74G movement we will be discuss­ ing is mounted on a seatboard. The pendulum is Chime Control Description - Figures on a stud on the back plate. There is a moon dial 45.5 and 45.6 and a second hand. The time train is standard except for the The star cam, cannon pinion and minute Graham deadbeat escapement and the maintain­ pipe are an assembly (12) mounted on the cen­ ing power. Lantern type pinions are used ter arbor in front of the front plate. It makes one throughout the movement. This is somewhat rotation clockwise (CW) per hour. The hook ex­ unusual for a clock of this quality. Otherwise, tension on the lower end of the chime lift lever the quality is very good overall. The time train (1 0) rides on and is actuated by the leaves of the will not be discussed in any detail. star cam. The upper end of the chime lift lever Figure 45.4 shows an overview of the is attached to, and actuates the lower chime con­ placement of the chime and strike controls. How trol arbor (7). The chime lift lever spring (11) is different this layout is compared to what we compressed against the lift lever to assure posi­ usually see! tive contact with the star cam.

28 Horological Times • July 1999 Figure 45.2. ST 74G Movement (front view) Figure 45.4. ST 74G Movement (overview- Chime & Strike Controls) Microstamp Custom Steel Stamps For Watches, Clocks and Collectables! Personalize your work with a custom Westminster Chime stamp by Microstamp Corporation Loaos & Trademarks on 4 Bells Strike send us your design for a quote! on Gong

(Trace Mark®stamp shown,.25mm characters!) Free Brochure Available! Tel.(626)793-9489 (800)243-3543 Fax.(626)793-9491 2770 E. WALNUT ST. PASADENA, CA.91107-3754 Figure 45.3. ST 74G Movement http:f/www.microstampusa.com e-mail: microstamp®earthlink.net

.July 1999 • Horological Times 29 Schematic - not scale or relative position 1 o Note: 2nd and 3rd wheels left off for clarity

8

19 1 Rear Plate 9 Unlock Lift Lever 17 Warning Pin 2 Chime Correction Lever 10 Chime Lift Lever 18 Third Arbor 3 Chime Correction Link 11 Chime Lift Lever Spring 19 Chime Lock Plate 4 Chime Correction Arbor 12 Star Cam 20 Second Arbor 5 Chime Correction Cam 13 Upper Chime Control Arbor 21 Chime Count Plate 6 Chime Correction Arm 14 Chime Count Lever 22 Strike Lift Cam 7 Lower Chime Control Arbor 15 Chime Lock Lever 23 Strike Lift Lever 8 Chime Warning Detent 16 Warning (4th ) Wheel Figure 45.5. Chime Control Components

The lower chime control arbor (7) has three arms (19). The chime warning detent finger rides close to the or levers, which rotate with it. When actuated by the chime 4th wheel (warning) in the path of the warning pin (17). lift lever (10) it rotates counterclockwise (CCW). These The chime on this movement is not self-correct­ three are: the unlock lift lever (9), the chime warning de­ ing. Manual controls are provided. The chime correction tent (8) and the chime correction arm (6). controls consist of the chime correction lever (2) mounted The upper chime control arbor (13) rotates CCW. on the left side of the front plate. It is pivoted approxi­ It has two levers attached to it. The chime lock lever ( 15) mately at the center. The left end extends past the move­ and the chime count lever(14). In the lock mode, the chime ment and is bent in an "L" shape about 3" out from the lock lever hook rests in the slot of the chime lock plate pivot. The bend is back towards the rear of the movement

30 Horological Times • July 1999 Figure 45.6. Star Cam, AWl Material Search Cannon Pinion, Minute Pipe Assembly EDITOR'S NOTE: This column is designed to work in conjunction with the A WI Movement Bank. If you can supply any of the items listed here, please send de­ tails to the Material Search Network. Do not send the items to A WI. Members requesting these items will be advised of their availability and will contact you directly.

1V4 LeCoultre 493 balance complete

1VS Plan Watch Co. (22ligne, cylinder escapement, (a full photo will be included in Part 46). The right side of key wind) serial #1054569, balance complete the lever is also about 3" and ends in a slot. or complete movement The chime correction link (3) upper end is attached to the chime correction arbor (4), which extends through 1V8 Longines 17-90ABC ratchet wheel, #415/? the front plate. The lower end of the link has a pin, which rides in the slot of the chime correction lever (2). A cam, If you can supply any of these items, please contact: which I call the chime correction cam ( 5), is at the other AWl Material Search Network, American Watchmak­ end of the chime correction arbor close to the rear plate ers-Clockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Har­ (1 ). This cam when rotated CW makes contact with and rison, OH 45030; Phone: (513) 367-9800, Fax: (513) rotates the chime correction arm (6) CCW. 367-1414 or E-mail: [email protected]. 0 0

AVtomat!c infrasonic watch cleaner. Ultrasonic watch cleaner. Automatic and programmable. Affordably priced, dependable to Economical to operate. Vibrasonic watch cleaner. operate,solidly built, Perfect for the small shop. . Deluxe- top of the line. For more intormation~or VIBROGRAF U.S.A. CORP. the name of your local 504 Cherry Lane, Floral Park, NY 11001 distributor contact: Tel: (516) 437-8700 Fax: (516) 437-8708

July 1999 • Horological Times 31 As a Clockmaker Turns

The Magic Center Finder, Part 2

J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FAWI, FBHI

Background Part 1 of this subject related the ftmc­ tional details of The Magic Center Finder. This tool is a device designed for the clockmaker to aid his lathe work. The original intent was to speed up and improve the quality or repivoting arbors of mid-size clocks. The device was so successful that it has found wide usage in my shop. It can locate a true center in five seconds "with your eyes closed." In that no other known technique or tool can make that claim, it was named "The Magic Center Finder." This article deals with the construction process and is broken down into sixteen photo­ Figure 13. Turn a truncated cone on a piece of 3/16" graphic steps with related captions. brass rod. This will become the bell. As you study this material, it will be helpful to have the previous article at hand (May 1999 Horological Times, p. 36).

Construction Figures 13-16 begin the process of mak­ ing the bell. We need a precision hole about %" long. That is an impractical depth to drill straight. Therefore it is drilled from each end. It is then reamed to a very close fit to our center-drill di­ ameter. The material for that drill-reamer is spring steel wire of 0.047" diameter. The bit of Figure 15 is 0.043" diameter. This means our reamer will up-size the hole by 0.004". Ream­ ing also straightens the two drillings where they meet midway. Figure 14. Locate and test a true center. A magic Figure 16 shows the bell-material cut­ center finder is used here. off operation. Cut your bell (or bells) after drill­ ing and before the material is released in the collet. it heat during grinding. If so, your center bit will Included angle of the bell is in the order not cut. The material used in the tool shown has of75°-90°, and a visual estimate of the value is a diameter of 0.047", which is suitable on jobs satisfactory. However, the center hole must be of mid-sized clocks. You may wish to make tools in the bell center. larger or smaller. Spring wire can be found in most hobby Making the reamer: length should fit stores. It's hard and tough. Be careful not to let your hand. Examine the illustrations in Part 1,

32 Horological Times • July 1999 Figure 15. Drill about 3Js" deep. This is a #5 7 bit with Figure 17. Without removal from the lathe, cut the bell. a diameter of0.043". The hole will be reamed to about An included angle of about 75 ° is suitable. 0.047".

Figure 16. Cut off about -Y4" long, truncate the end, Figure 18. Cut a piece of spring steel wire about 2" and drill to complete a full-length hole. long. This will become the reamer and the final center drill. Cut with a stone and motor tool.

11 11 . .. a semi-automatic pantograph mineral THE KRONOGLASS watch crystal grinding machine FEATURES: Four (4) diamond grinding wheels Water pan with pump Plus all equipment necessary to reproduce at least 60 finished crystals With this machine you can reproduce flat or concave mineral watch crystals with a bevel for watches of any shape. The American Perfit Crystal Corp. is the exclusive distributor for this machine, considered the finest of its kind available. Replacement parts are readily available! NOW IN STOCK-- NEWLY IMPROVED! Contact your watch material supplier today.

AMERICAN PERFIT CRYSTAL CORP. 520 8TH AVENUE NEW YORK, NY 10018

' July 1999 • Horological Times 33 Figure 19. Grind the spring wire to a screwdriver-like Figure 21. Chuck true and grind a conical tip ofabout tip, then sharpen as a spade drill. Lube and use as a 70° included angle. Be careful not to heat the fine tip. reamer to open the hole. This will become your center drill.

Figure 20. The spring wire reamer is now a very close Figure 22. Hold in a vise and seat your wood button fit to the hole in your bell piece. knob. This is fixed to the reamer end ofthe spring wire.

and in this article. Several tools were involved in the illus­ the knob in place. The "reamer spade drill" is now inside trations, but a piece about 2" long fits my hand best. Cut the knob. the material with a thin stone. It's too hard for other tools. Mark the under edge of your knob in three equal Grind one tip to look like a blunt screwdriver, and sharpen places. I used a collet to locate my marks. Figures 22 and as a spade drill bit. Use lots of oil, clean the hole frequently 23 show the knob detail. and ream the entire length from one end. The hole will be The knob markers are the guide to grinding the almost skin-tight on your reamer. three bit-tip facets. Study Figures 24 and 25 for the grind­ Chuck the opposite end of the reamer and grind a ing method. Bring the tool tip to a fine point with three conical tip to an included angle of about 60°-80°, an eye­ equal facets. ball judgment ofthat angle is OK. Review Figure 21. Don't The grinder of Figures 21 and 25 is for photo­ bum the tip. Your reamer will slip through the bell piece graphic illustration. The one used is very similar to the with a little resistance. Compare to Figures 20 and 21. photographs. There are a half-dozen plies of poster card Now fix your knob in place. This one is a wood stock on a mandrel. The abrasive material is a 3M Com­ button from a craft store. Predrill the wood about 'ii of the pany product called Tri-M-Ite Wetordry 400 Grit. That knob length, slightly smaller than your reamer. I used the grit is too fine to show up in the photographs. However, same bit that drilled the bell piece. Hold in a vise and tap the disc and mandrel were used. The object of the card

34 Horological Times • July 1999 Figure 23. Hold in a collet and mark the under head Figure 25. The bell is used to hold your spring wire area at each slit in the lathe collet. This will be your touch down. Touch very lightly and move to the next grinding guide. pair ofmarkers.

Figure 24. With one eye closed, hold the knob so that Figure 26. When the three tip facets are equal, and the two underhead markers are equally in view. Then tip is to a paint, your work will look like this. lightly touch down on your grinding disc.

stock backing is that it is a no-bounce operation. This was held in the lathe collet and driven at lathe maximum speed. The disc is 2W' in diameter. Grind near the disc edge for higher speed. Touch down was no more than one second HERMLE - KIENINGER - URGOS per facet. In fact, it is prudent to do a little practice on a MOVEMENTS FROM scrap piece before you grind the "real thing." ~uttcrn)ort[) C£(ocf{5, 3nc. Testing • largest distributor of Hermie movements Your tool should look similar to Figure 26, and fit • distributor of Kieninger movements and parts your hand similar to Figure 27. Note that the second fin­ • exclusive distributor of Urgos movements • over 109 models in stock--largest selection in the U.S. ger holds the knob near your hand palm. Now you can slide the bell along the drill shank. You may need to ad­ PHONENOICE ORDERS 1-800-258-5418 just the drill length. If so, remove the knob and shorten the TOLL FREE FAX 1-888-399-8463 1715 Pearlview Ct. • Muscatine, lA 52761 drill or make a new one. E-mail: [email protected] Chuck a piece of brass rod in the lathe, face the Same day shipping, 2-year warranty end and chamfer the edge. With a drop of oil in the bell, Call for free price list

July 1999 • Horological Times 35 Figure 2 7. Chuck a piece of brass, face, and chamfer Figure 28. Retract the bell and feel the bit resting in the end. Place a drop ofoil in the bell. Press the bell in the brass work piece. No vibration indicates a perfect place and lightly press the knob. center location.

seat the bell on your work piece and lightly press the knob. Conclusion Retract the bell and feel the bit tip in your running work The result is so easy to obtain that I call this "The piece. If off center, you can feel the error. If so, try again. Magic Center Finder." But in the real world, there is noth­ After a little practice you will be able to locate center even ing magic going on. It's just a very fine tool that is easy to in a workpiece with a conical point! Feel the job as in build. I hope you like it. 0 Figure 28.

Join the Great AWl Famous Writers' Contest

Did you know that Horological Times is always looking for good new writing talent? The magazine's purpose is not only to provide a first-class technical journal to our members, but also to recruit and provide the opportunity for new talent to make its debut before a professional readership. If you have the urge to share your hard-earned knowledge with a continent full of your colleagues, the pages of Horological Times are the place for you to be.

Horological Times will pay the author up to $200 for each original technical article that is accepted for publication. Articles are selected by the HT editorial staff and the HT Advisory Committee. Amount of the author's honorarium will depend on length, technical content and illustrations provided. The chromoline artwork for items selected for HT covers will also be framed for the contributing author.

Now for the big news! Next year's magazine survey will include a nomination question for the best new article of 1999. The winning writer will be eligible for a cash award of$500. The runner-up will receive $200.

Don't miss out on this opportunity. Get to work NOW!

36 Horological Times • July 1999 FLORIDA NEW YORK Brito, Saul-West Palm Beach, FL* Perlman, Richard B.-Bronxville, NY Kong, Kenneth-Orlando, FL* OHIO AWv' -1 GEORGIA Heck, Robert-Akron, OH* Jackson, Harold-Camilla, GA Peirce, Albert E., IV-West Chester, OH* Sponsor: James Bishop-Cairo, GA Pierce, C. David-Danville, OH

New Members ILLINOIS OKLAHOMA Ortega, Rodolfo G.-Chicago, IL Suderman, Erik A.-Okmulgee, OK

IOWA OREGON ALABAMA Sorokowski, Stan Jr.-Sioux, lA Didier, Daniel T.-Seal Rock, OR Barton, Eric C.-Birmingham, AL Sponsor: Gene Bertram-St. Louis, MO Zamora, Betty J.-Newport, OR* Sponsor: Gene Bologna-Surprise, AZ. MARYLAND SOUTH CAROLINA ALASKA Reilly, John-Monkton, MD Tra, Son A.-Greenville, SC De La Rosa, Rafael M.-Anchorage, AK* MICHIGAN TEXAS ARIZONA Conti, Giorgio-Southfield, Ml King, Kim-Austin, TX Hay, Robert M.-Sun City, AZ.* DeGraw, Henry P.-Belleville, Ml VIRGINIA CALIFORNIA NEVADA Ibanez, Robert-Winchester, VA* Campbell, William G.-Tracy, CA* Brooks, Vern-Sparks, NV Kavoukian, Varouj-La Canada Flintridge, CA Diehl, Bill-Carson City, NV* WASHINGTON Marton, Eric..,-San Francisco, CA Delong, Kathryn-Port Hadlock, WA Skladany, James D.-San Bernardino, CA NEW HAMPSHIRE Smith, Gregory-Yorba Linda, CA Macredie, John J.-Merrimack, NH

CONNECTICUT NEW JERSEY * AWl welcomes back these individuals lngvertsen, Peter N.-Unionville, CT Parsons, Lindsey-Spring Lake, NJ who have chosen to reinstate their Roberts, Kenneth J.-Terryville, CT Pedzy, Edward A.-Norwood, NJ* membership.

Moven~en~ Holder Ca!ie Tube Wrench Premium all-aluminum adjustable forR L X movement holder with nylon pegs. Insert both 5.3mm & 6.0mm tubes. Compare at twice the price! ...... Unique Design MH59292 ...... • . ..$9.50 ...... Hand Cut Steel .... Will Not Mar

Hun~ing Ca!ie C042468 . .. 0 •••••••$37.50 Pocke~ Watth Crown!i Your Coll'lplete 24 pcs.Yellow.Tap #10 (.90 mm). Material House MCR99018 .•...... $40.00

Trea!iure DDRII!!i Plastic !ieiko Pul!iar Foldover Light Walnut Base Plastic Dome

Cla!ip A!i!iDr~n~en~ CV25001 .. . 0 •• 0 0 • •• 0 •• 0 0 0 .$4.45 Dark Walnut Base Plastic Dome one each in yellow and white of sizes 5, 6, 7, 8, I 0 and 15mm; I 0 men's 5/8" buckle spring ~~~~~~~m~=~~~~~~ CV25002 ...... o o .$4.45 bars; 6 each yellow and white safety chains. In Light Base Glass Dome plastic compartment box. Ship wt. I lb. CV25005 ...... o •• • $8.00 FIC2000 •...... $39.95 Dark Base Glass Dome CV25004 ...... o o • o • o o • • •• • $8.00

July 1999 • Horological Times 37 Working with Bushings

David J. Carlson

Bushing is a procedure used to restore the origi­ 10%, particularly for gears near the great wheel. nal dimensions of a hole in the plate of a clock or watch In extreme cases the arbor will have to be that has been distorted by wear from a pivot. The wear can repivoted. be caused by loss of lubrication, a hostile environment, the pivot material or faulty plating and previous repair his­ Choice of Bushings tory. For example, a normal pivot hole is shown in Figure There are two main sources of bushing systems, 1 lA where the pivot is surrounded by a thin film of oil. In KWM and Bergeon . My preference for new work is the Figure lB, loss oflubrication has caused the pivot to grind KWM system although both bushing systems are kept in out a section of the wall of the pivot hole. Figure lC is the stock. Figure 2 is a cross section of a bushing together resultant elongated pivot hole that must be restored through with the range of sizes manufactured by KWM. Where the bushing process. The lack of oil and the snug fit raise necessary, custom bushings can be made2 but for the most the friction of the pivot to the point were the movement part the convenience and time saving of the commercial stops. bushing is the choice of most shops. The commercial

PIVOT "K" ~FORCE Hmm =1.0, 1.4, 1.7, 1.8, 2.7, 3.0, 4.0 Dmm =1.2, 1.8, 2.7, 3.5, 4.7, 5.9, 8.7 A. OILED PIVOT B. DRY PIVOT C. ELONGATED NO WEAR CAUSING WEAR PIVOT HOLE Bmm =53 sizes: 0.07 · 6.55

+INDICATES PIVOT CENTER

Figure 1. Pivot Hole Wear

Identifying the Need for a Bushing Figure 2. KWM Bushing Series After a clock movement is removed from its case, the need for bushings can be determined:

o With the power let down, "rock" the great wheel and look between the plates for a back-and-forth movement of the arbors in the gear train. No. Wmm o Look for a build-up of black residue on or be­ I low a pivot hole. The black residue is caused by 1.18 fine metal particles indicating pivot and pivot hole II 1.78 wear. III 2.68 IV 3.48 o After cleaning, check the plates a second time. Especially in the case of a very dirty movement, IVa 4.66 the need for a bushing can be obscured. When in v 5.85 doubt, try one or more of the gears in place to VI 8.64 check for problems.

o A defective pivot. Pivots should be inspected for damage. In many cases the damage can be removed by reducing the pivot size on a lathe. The reduction in pivot size should be limited to Figure 3. KWM D-Drill Series

38 Horological Times • July 1999 bushings are identified as friction bushings because the hole for them is made slightly undersized so that friction holds the bushing in place when it is forcibly pressed into the hole. The commercial drill for drilling the bushing hole is called a D-drill because of its shape. A D-drill is shown in Figure 3 together with a listing of the drills in the KWM senes.

Steps in Bushing a Worn Pivot Hole 1. Select the Bushing: Measure the pivot thick­ ness and the thickness of the plates in millimeters. The required bushing can be identified from a look-up table in a materials catalog or a KWM bushing template as shown in Figure 4. The template has bushings mounted around the edge to facilitate testing the sideshake. It is convenient Figure 4. Bushing Template and Look-Up Table in the shop to keep a supply of bushings on hand. KWM offers two multi-compartment boxes shown in Figure 5. The boxes are referred to as an "Initial Set" and a with the original pivot hole. The crosshatch portion shows "Supplementary Set." Smaller sets are available to cover the metal removed by filing. American Kitchen clocks, etc. Bronze bushings are also B. Smooth the hole with a reamer. In Figure 5B available in the KWM and Bergeon systems. There is some the back-filed pivot hole is reamed with a cutting broach wear advantage for great wheel and second wheel to form a smooth circular hole. If the hole is not circular bushing. and smooth, the D-drill in the next step will bounce around 2. Prepare the Worn Pivot Hole: resulting in an oversized hole that will not provide the nec­ A. Back-file. In Figure 6A the elongated pivot essary interference fit with the bushing. hole is filed starting at the opposite side of the hole from C. Drill the hole. The look-up table or template the wear point. The goal is to file a circular hole on center from Figure 4 will identify the D-drill number that is

CHRONOGRAPH DIALS

One dozen assorted wrist watch chronograph dials for mechanical and quartz SKIN DIVER AND CHRONOGRAPH SWEEP movements. Different SECOND HANDS sizes, styles, and colors 24 assorted sweep second hands for modern skin make up the 12 assorted diver and chronograph watches. Various styles, dials. Only $8.95 per colors, and post lengths. Most have the fancy ....______,assortment! luminous dot on the hand. Only $6.95 per 03-4068 ...... $8.95 asst. assortment! Ol-8028A ...... $6.95 asst. ~ 7n1*1'\"~ S. tLaRose,'\l'nc. LUMINOUS Worldwide '2JialribulorJ lo :.Jiorofof} ialJ HOUR AND '/ MINUTE 3223 Yanceyville St. • P.O.Box 21208 HANDS Greensboro, N.C. 27420 USA Direct from a watch hand factory! 100 assorted Tech, pricing, & acconnt info: (336) 621-1936 luminous and painted hour and minute hands in all Orders only 1-888-752-7673 the modern styles and sizes for mechanical and Local Fax: (336) 621-0706 quartz wrist watches. Assorted colors, styles, and Toll Free Fax: 1-800-537-4513 sizes - may even include a few sweep hands! E-Mail: [email protected] Home Page: http://www.slarose.com Ol-8028B ...... $5.95 asst.

July 1999 • Horological Times 39 bushing projects is: • Small quantity of round needle files to back file pivot holes. • Drill Press: To drill bushing holes and act as a ram to insert bushings. • D-drill set: A D-drill set is available from mate rial houses. The set includes D-drills I-V, a cham­ fering bit, and a handle for drilling by hand. D­ drills IVa & VI are available on special order. The D-drills may be used in the drill press or the hand holder. • Set of cutting broaches to ream the hole and pivot cutting broaches to adjust sideshake. • Dial caliper or micrometer calibrated in millime ters to measure pivot size and plate thickness. • KWM Bushing Template: (optional) Somewhat pricey but a great convenience for testing fit and the engraved bushing chart. Figure 5. KWM Bushing Kits • Tools for Seating the Bushing: The drill press in addition to drilling the bushing holes can serve as a ram for seating bushings. Use a plain steel rod or punch in the chuck and a suitable anvil to back up the plate. Another time saving tool for seating bushings within 2" of the edge of the plate can be made from the double-action pliers that are part of the older watch crystal mounting sets. The pli­ 00 ers are typically 8" long. New anvils are made for A. Backfile B. Ream C. Drill the pliers as shown in Figure 7. The shape of the lower anvil (stump) is very useful when bushing around the half cock support for the escape wheel Figure 6. Preparing the Worn Pivot Hole for Bushing in early American Clocks. The pliers save the set up time required for the drill press. required for the bushing selected in Step 1. When drilling the hole, a drop of oil or tapping fluid will assure a clean hole. The plate should be well supported but not be Commercial Bushing Tools clamped. The D-drill will seek its center of the reamed The "do it all" commercial bushing tool is essen­ hole made in Step 2B. After drilling, the hole should be tially a hand-operated screw press with a clamping device lightly swaged to remove the sharp edges. for the plate. In critical bushing situations there is a good 3. Press the selected bushing into place. Starting chance for error in locating the pivot hole center, clamp­ at the inside of the plate with the oil sink towards the plate, ing the plate, and the run-out of the vertical screw. For press the bushing in place. Make sure the bushing is flush less than the cost of one of these tools, the above set of with the inside of the plate. If the bushing is not flush with tools including a good bench model drill press can be the plate, it can reduce the endshake and bind the arbor purchased. and make the movement assembly difficult because of interference. 4. Check the pivot/arbor in the new bushing. It should be vertical and have a cone shaped sideshake of about 5 to 10 degrees. If necessary, lightly ream and smooth the pivot hole to obtain the necessary fit. This step must be done carefully otherwise it can result in a jammed gear that will require takedown of the movement to correct.

Shop Tooling for Bushing Projects The proper tools make a job quicker, easier, and therefore more profitable. A suggested list of tools for Figure 7. A Bushing Seating Tool

40 Horological Times • July 1999 Other Bushing Situations

Spring Barrels An often-overlooked bushing problem is the spring barrel. Both the cover and the barrel itself may require bushing to prevent an interference with the second wheel that will result in severe power loss. Commercial bush­ ings can work but oftentimes it is necessary to make your AWl ··-~-· own. For centering accuracy, I prefer to cut the bushing -· hole in the barrel and the barrel cover on a lathe. In the absence of a suitable lathe, a good job can be done by carefully back filing and reaming to accept the new bushing. Battery Number System Great Wheels/Spring Drive The high pressure of the spring together with poor Booklet lubrication can severely damage the great wheel bushing. $5.00 each In some cases commercial bushings can be used; in others they will have to be made on the lathe.

Ball Bearing Bushings Ball bearing bushings can be used in cases where Battery Number System even bronze bushings are marginal. For example, the sec­ ond wheel in the time train of an Urgos movement had Cabinet Labels worn the pivot hole to the extent where it jammed the great $3.50 per set wheel. The pivot material was suspect. The second wheel pivot was easily fitted to a I/s" x 3/s" ball bearing race which was installed as the bushing. Available from: Comments American Your comments or questions are welcome. Con­ tact me through A WI. Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute 701 Enterprise Dr. Harrison, OH 45030 Endnotes Phone (513) 367-9800 1. "American Bushings" available through most mate­ Fax (513) 367-1414 rial dealers is a second source for both manufacturers. E-mail: [email protected] 2. J.M. Huckabee, Horological Times, November 1998, pp. 42-44. 0

TORSION BEAT CALIBRATOR TORSION BEAT CALIBRATOR TORSION BEAT CALIBRATOR TORSION BEAT CALIBRATOR

T T 0 0 R THE TORSION BEAT CALIBRATOR R s s I FREE INFORMATIONAL FLIER - SEND S.A.S.E. I 0 0 N N The Torsion Beat Calibrator is designed to give "BEAT" B B E control by moving the fork about a thousandth of an inch E A A T or less if needed. This takes the mystery out of finding the T c "BEAT." c A A L To order the Torsion Beat Calibrator send check or money L I I B order for $5.50 plus $1.50 shipping & handling. B R Suspension R A Payable to: Lubertus H. Hayenga Co. A T Spring Clamp T 0 Jaw P.O. Box 7443 0 R Fremont, CA 94537-7443 R

TORSION BEAT CALIBRATOR TORSION BEAT CALIBRATOR TORSION BEAT CALIBRATOR TORSION BEAT CALIBRATOR

July 1999 • Horological Times 41 From the Workshop

Jack Kurdzionak

A Little More Light Shed on Insulators did not provide enough leverage to allow her to Thanks to Rene Rondeau, noted author easily wind the clock. The problem was further and Hamilton watch expert, who supplied some complicated by the time arbor winding in the additional information about insulating the opposite direction from the strike and chime Hamilton 505 negative battery connector, and trains. In desperation she managed to wind the cautions watchmakers servicing these watches clock by turning the key with an adjustable cres­ about an ill-fitting battery. His letter to us states: cent wrench. This was a long, difficult, and risky "I noted your discussion of Hamilton process for her. If the wrench slipped from the 505 battery replacements in the April issue. It is key she was liable to cause damage to the clock definitely a good idea to shield the negative pole or even injure herself. Gene was challenged to to prevent any possible shorting of the battery. make a key that was easy for her to wind and The binder reinforcements you mention work safe to use. fine, as does simple scotch tape. After a bit of thought, he was inspired "However, there is one extremely im­ by seeing a five-inch ratchet wrench in his tool portant point that bears mentioning in this re­ box. The ratchet wrench could provide the gard: watchmakers should never use Energizer leverage necessary to wind the clock. It was (previously Eveready) 301 batteries in the reversible so that it could wind the arbors in Hamilton 505. The 301 is the correct original either direction. All that had to be done was to battery number for this watch; however, about couple the ratchet wrench to a winding key. The nine years ago Eveready changed the profile of solution was found, ready made, in a set of let their 301, with the result that the new battery down keys. This set is commonly found in many does not fit correctly into the recess. The thicker clock supply houses and it consists of double rim of this changed battery results in extreme ended keys with a hexagonal center. LaRose pressure being exerted on the battery clamp, fre­ shows the set as #061014 in their catalog. All quently causing it to break. that was necessary was to select the proper let ''I'm finding increasing numbers ofthese down key that fit the arbors of the chime clock watches crossing my bench with broken or dam­ and attach a deep, six-point, 11-mm socket on aged clamps, and unfortunately this is a difficult the ratchet. The key fits perfectly in the deep part to find today. socket. The assembly of the ratchet and key as "You can use 301 (or equivalent desig­ pictured in the photo is self explanatory. The nation SR43SW) batteries from any other manu­ woman is now able to easily and safely wind facturer without problems (e.g. Renata, Max ell, her clock thanks to Gene. Panasonic, Sony), however the Energizer 301 is sure to cause problems and must be avoided!"

A Better Crank No this was not written by Henry Ford but was suggested by Gene Bertram of Missouri. An elderly customer suffering from arthritic hands asked Gene to devise a method to make winding her Westminster chime clock a bit easier. The standard key supplied with the clock

42 Horological Times • July 1999 What the Owner Sees necessary to get them clean. Most of these clean very well We have had to return our late model sport utility during a brief stay in the tank while the ultrasonic is turned vehicle to the dealership for warranty service a few times on. Some others such as expansion bracelets can be so during the past two years. The repairs and adjustments they dirty that they may require an overnight stay in the tank have made under the warranty service are not visible to just to soften all of the dirt trapped in the links. the eye as they were made somewhere deep in the innards After cleaning and rinsing with warm water, the of the car. However, we do see the clean car they return to cases and bracelets are dried with hot air from a hair dryer. us each time the car is left for service. (They provide a This method of cleaning cases works very well with watch free car wash.) I really don't know what service they per­ cases and bracelets made from karat gold, stainless steel, form under the hood of the car, but I do see the clean paint sterling silver, gold filled, gold plate, micron plate, and on the outside. It signifies that they did something. This is titanium. a good example for watchmakers. The owner of a watch is Cases decorated with paint should not be cleaned a bit like the owner of a car. He really only sees the out­ by this method as well as cases with crystals that have side and does not understand what was done on the inside. painted surfaces or masked edges. Painted cases and crys­ A clean case and bracelet show that something was done. tals might be cautiously and quickly cleaned with soap Every watch that comes through our shop for re­ and water only. With these there is always some risk in pair gets its case and bracelet cleaned. For this we use the cleaning as the paint and trim may wash away. Finally, be old ultrasonic clock cleaning tank. This tank, no longer very cautious with die cast cases found on many low cost used for clock repair, is filled with a water-based clock watches, both pocket and wrist models, that are made from cleaner such as made by L&R Company. It makes an ex­ molded zinc alloys. These cases should only be cleaned cellent cleaner for watch cases and bracelets especially with soap and water. Any cleaner that is stronger than soap after they have been polished with jewelers rouge. The seems to cause damage to the case and its plating. cases and bracelets are placed in a stainless wire mesh Jack Kurdzionak basket in the tank and allowed to soak for as long as 0

~ 706 S. Hill St., #580 Tel: (213) 622-1687 Los Angeles, CA 90014 SMITH SUPPLY HOUSE Fax: (213) 488-0922 LOS ANGELES Watch Materials, Supplies & Tools Watch Battery Distributor MAINSPRING WINDERS TO FIT ON LADY'S ROLEX CAL. 2030/2035 2130/2135 MAN'S ROLEX CAL. 3035/3135 $49.75 EACH

SMITH SUPPLY HOUSE IS NOT AFFILIATED WITH OR SPONSORED BY ROLEX WATCH U.S.A. THE ROLEX WARRANTY DOES NOT APPLY TO GENERIC REPLACEMENT PARTS SUPLIED BY SMITH SUPPLY HOUSE.

YOUR SUPPLIER OF SPARE PARTS FOR ALL BRANDS OF MECHANICAL AND QUARTZ WATCHES, CLOCKS AND ALARMS - CALL TOLL FREE (800) 23-SMITH

July 1999 • Horological Times 43 ATMOS BY JAEGER-LECOULTRE Classified Larry Blanchard Overhauled with a !fine

ARTICLES FOR SALE YOUR RELIABLE CLOCK Send $3.00 for our new ;\IOVBIE:\T & PARTS clock supply catalog! SOURCE SINCE 1981 • Timesavera Call fur a Catalng Today! Box 12700 22~65Sali Ranl'h l'l,ll .l. li ll ( 00) _ Scottsdale, AZ 854!67 SHERLINE PRODUCTS1 0-15% OFF 'orha Lind.-.C\ 1J2NN 7 8 824 0900 602-483-3711 Free catalogs on request. Antique , Ltd . P.O. Box 201,Loretto, MN 55357 (612) 479-1935 E-mail:[email protected] CLOCK REPAIR EQUIPMENT MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed low­ Tools, cleaner, dryer, timer, misc. parts, books. est prices--as low as $2.30. Two-year guaran­ SASE please. Will not ship. D. Marco, 4605 tee. Large selection of hands and numerals. Free Robbins St. , San Diego, CA 92122. delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221 . HALL AII36W.R. Smith and John Wilding clockmaking CLOCK SHOP, 1512 Central Ave., Charlotte, NC workshop manuals available from : W.R. Smith, 28205. 7936 Camberley Drive, Powell, TN 37849-3744. STUCK FOR A MOVEMENT? Phone (423) 947-9671. Send SASE for price Jist. or a watch part? Call Don Kraker's Watch E-mail: [email protected] Movements. (559) 229-8423 or write 4325 No. 5th St., Fresno, CA 93726.

Watchmakers tools, equipment, material, and BUSINESS FOR SALE supplies, mostly used. Sold by free list, available HAMILTON MILITARY MATERIAL. Many parts from Dashto, Tom Mister, 2557 Sandpiper Rd ., available for 992B, 4992B, M23, M22 deck watch, M21 marine chronometer, brass hard­ Virginia Beach, VA 23456; Phone (757) 426- Virginia Beach jewelry store in well-located 1155, Fax (757) 426-3133; e-mail: ware for boxes. Robert Ravel Co., Box 32, Devon, PA 19333. Phone (610) 644-4272. shopping center, with busy repair department, [email protected]. View all lists at http:// turn-key operation. (757) 479-9692. www.erols.com/dashto/

Boley lathe with collet-holding tailstock and 50 shiny collets and motor, $600.00; Boley lathe with collet-holding tailstock, $300.00; Boley NEW CLOCKS & MUSIC BOXES three-jaw, $175.00; Baley-Leinen 2-way com­ SITUATIONS WANTED Ridgeway, Hentschel, Van Dommelen and pound, $350.00; Baley-Leinen face plate, Farmington wall and shelf clocks. Choice of $125.00; steady rest for Boley, $75.00; Boley Hermie 9-tube movements in 11 ofthe Hentschel mill attachment, $500.00 ; Boley wheel cutter models. Plus we have the MEGA radio-controlled attachment w/extra mill head, $600.00; Levin Certified Clockmaker, College Graduate. Trained clocks by Junghans. We also feature the Reuge mill attachment, $750.00 ; large index plate, clocks and watches. 12 years experience on a and Porter music boxes. Best prices anywhere, $400.00; small index plate, $1 00.00; Lorch coun­ wide range of antique and new timepieces call us before you buy. Mel Taylor, A Time to tershaft, $100.00; bezel chuck, $125.00; four­ seeks position. Reply to Box SW499, c/o Horo­ Remember, PO Box 1007, Nashville, IN 47448. jaw chuck, $200.00; Vibrograf B200A, $600.00. logical Times, 701 Enterprise Dr., Harrison, OH 812-988-8463 or toll free 800-267-7756. Everything near perfect except bezel chuck. 45030. E-mail: [email protected] Ken (248) 399-3067. Web site www.atimetoremember.net HELP WANTED MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed low­ est prices--as low as $2.30. Two-year guaran­ NOW AVAILABLE tee. Large selection of hands and numerals. Free Discontinued SEIKO & LASSALE WATCHMAKER- Experienced in the sevice of delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. HALL & Cases, Bands Straps mechanical and quartz timepieces, including CLOCK SHOP, 1512 Central Ave., Charlotte, NC Rolex and high quality watches. Central Califor­ 28205. This is an inventory of complete salesmen's samples. We have over 15,000 cases/ nia location. Good working conditions, benefits, bands in stock for immediate delivery. Crys­ and paid vacations. Please send resume to: tals, dials, hands and crowns are available. Borelli Jewelers, 2051 Pacific Ave. , Stockton, Two 2-hour videos for the hobbyist: "Wheel Renew that old SEIKO or LASSALE CA 95204-5389. Cutting, Pinion Making & Depthing" and "Graver customer's watch for a fraction of the cost Making & Hand Turning"- $60 postpaid each. By of normal parts purchase. We have many W.R. Smith, 7936 Camberley Drive, Powell , TN parts that the major distributor can't supply. 37849-3744. Phone (423) 947-9671 . E-mail: All parts are from U.S.A . authorized WATCHMAKER- Experienced in repairing all [email protected] models. types of mechanical and quartz watches. Pleas­ ant working conditions, benefits, paid vaca­ Call RON CANDA tions. Call Mr. Baker at 1-888-795-7081 or send 1-877-226-3259 resume to: The Watch Shop, 643 Fourth Ave., Louisville, KY 40202. A complete selection of This is a FREE call!!! spare parts for the Golden Hour Clock Have caseback, dial, or band numbers The Golden Hour Clock Co. ready and I will let you know cost and 7745 East Redfield Road #500 availability. Scottsdale, AZ 85260 602-483-3711 CALL NOW

July 1999 Horological Times 45 HELP WANTED IT'S TIME TO SELL -A WATCH Watchmak TOP PRICES PAID! ROlEX • PATEk PHILI PPI Movado Group, Inc., a prestigious V CHERON & CO STA I manufacturer and distributor of AUDEMARS PIGUET BREITLING • CARTIER luxury Swiss timepieces such as & OTHERS Coach, Corum, Concord, Movado Wf1en you're ready to ell and ESQ, currently has excellent Call Toll Free opportunities available for 1-800-842-8625 ers in the following locations: Alwa, prompl pa ment/ • Miami, Florida • Los Angeles, California • New York Metropolitan area Qualified individuals will possess 2 + years experi­ ence with quartz watches. Previous experience with high-grade mechanical and/or complicated, multi-function movements is a plus. We offer a competitive salary, and a comprehens benefits package. For confidential consideration, Top Midwest buyer of old movements, cases, please send resume to: Human Resources Dept. crystals, dials, etc. is also buying running wrist WM, Movado Group Inc., 125 Chubb Avenue, and pocket watches, by the piece or collection. Lyndhurst, NJ 07071; Fax (201) 460-4543. I'll travel or pay shipping. Cash settlement. Call Equal Opportunity Employer MJF/D/V Mike Bailey at (847) 741-1289 or write to P.O. Box 531, Elgin, IL 60121.

MOVADO ANYTHING ILLINOIS. Movado Group, Inc. Want to buy Illinois wristwatches, dials, move­ ments and cases (complete or parts) in any condition. Please call 800-421-1968, x5520, Fax 949-725-9787 or mail to Fred Friedberg , c/ oTAMS, P.O. Box2068, Tustin, CA92681-2068 or e-mail at [email protected]. We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any WANTED TO BUY amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill , sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King St., WANTED Buying pocket watches, cases and parts. Need Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Established Am. msp. & staff sets- crystals. Bob Niemeyer, 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073. 19844 S. SR 116, Spencerville, OH 45887; Gold-Filled Scrap Phone (419) 647-4818. Gold - Silver - Platinum WANTED: Paying high prices for chronograph and high grade watches, movements, dials, Pocket & Wristwatches ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS cases, & parts. Dean Samelle, 25 W. Beverley Batteries Call us before you sell your parts, tools, St., Staunton, VA 24401, phone & fax (540) and watches. We have helped over 70 885-6064. Diamonds watchmakes in the last two years to dis­ pose of their accumulations. When you're Estate Jewelry really ready to sell, we're ready to buy! Watch Repair Shop Phone (727) 327-3306. Ask for Jeff or Nancy. WATCH MATERIAL Jewelry Repair Shop DISTRIBUTORS Please call us if you are interested TOP BUYERS OF WATCHMAKERS TOOLS, MA­ GF SPECIALTIES, Ltd. TERIALS, EQUIPMENT, ETC. Wetravelforprompt in selling your business. settlement. Retirements and estate specialists. All replies confidential. P.O. Box 17216 Please call Tom Mister at (757) 426-1155, Fax Contact Pat Cassedy Milwaukee, WI 53217 (757) 426-3133; e-mail: [email protected]. Cas-Ker Co. (513) 241-7073 View all lists at http://www.erols.com/dashto/ lrv Bard • 800-351-6926

46 Horological Times July 1999 WANTED • Gold-Filled Scrap $5.50 per oz. • GFWatch Bands $6.00.$18.00 lb. BOOKS • Batteries Silver .9 x SPOT

• Gold • 14k, 18k, etc. Up to 98% Call Toll Free 1-800-426-2344 203-372-0481 FOR SALE SPECIALTV METALS REFINING COMPANY, INC. 1915 Black Rock Turnpike Fairfield, CT 06430

Ron Fried, President The Top 300 Trade Secrets of a "/look forward to giving Members: you honest and Better Business Bureau reliable service " Jewelers Board of Trade Our 169th Consecutive Ad Master Clockmaker

By J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FAWI

The material in this 111-page book covers essentially all of the more difficult tasks encountered in the restoration of older American clocks. Each step is given in such detail that journeymen and students alike can enrich their skills as "with the master's touch". Most of this work can be readily adapted to other clocks encountered in the craft of clock restoration. Over 300 Photographs! Proceeds donated to AWl's Student Loan Fund. $26.95 New - Used - Vintage Rolex Specialist sales/service Diamond dials/ bezels Twenty-First Century Need info on a watch? Watchmaking call us! 4, 5·283·, 930 By William 0. Smith, Jr., CMW, CMC, FAWI

Let'e~9Mel~ Smith has developed a method that will enable the watchmaker to successfully make many ofthe replacement parts required to restore fine watches in the 21st century. Using this method and very few inexpensive tools, the watchmaker will become proficient at custom making mostflat metal parts required to complete TIMEPIECES & .JEWELRY a restoration. The purpose of this book is to cover in detail the methods the 210 Post St. 712 • San Francisco, CA • 94108 author has developed during a lifetime at the bench, methods which are the !lot on olftnal Rolex Jeweler quickest, easiest and least expensive way of making high-grade parts for obsolete mechanical watches. Those who become involved in the process will find it to be fascinating, enjoyable and financially rewarding. The author's skill as a craftsman, teacher and author, along with excellent photography and line drawings, combine to make the development of the skills required to make these parts from raw material a challenging yet realistic goal to attain. The TO PLACE A reader will truly develop what the author refers to as "The Joy of Making Parts with Ease". CLASSIFIED AD $45.00

Phone: 513-367-9800 ORDER FROM American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Fax: 513-367-1414 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030 Email: [email protected] Phone (513) 367-9800 Fax (513) 367-1414 E-mail: [email protected]

July 1999 • Horological Times 47 --<>---t-0 Advertisers' AWl EDUCATION Index Bench Courses American Perfit Crystal Corp ...... 33 To register for Bench Courses, please mail, phone, fax or e-mail your registration and payment information to: American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030. Phone (513)367-9800, Fax (513) 367-1414, E-mail: [email protected] PLEASE NOTE: Registrations are limited and will be selected by the earliest Batt-Tronic ...... 19 date received. Please include a check or your Visa or Mastercard number, card expiration date, signature and phone number. All registration fee checks and charges are processed immediately upon receipt. DEADLINE FOR REGISTRA­ TION IS 30 DAYS BEFORE THE SCHEDULED DATE OF THE COURSE. • Indicates Bench Courses held in conjunction Borel &Co ., Jules ...... 5 with a convention .

DATE CLASS INSTRUCTOR LOCATION FEE Butterworth Clocks, Inc ...... 35 JULY 1999 • 25 Swiss Auto Quartz Tamara Houk Columbus, OH $65.00 Cas-Ker Co ...... inside back cover SEPTEMBER 1999 25-26 Clock Jerry Faier Baltimore, MD $130.00 OCTOBER 1999 Energizer ...... 24, 25 23-24 Swiss Auto Quartz Tamara Houk Springfield, NJ $130.00 NOVEMBER 1999 6-7 Clock Escapements Jenry Faier Dallas , TX $130.00 Esslinger &Co ...... inside front cover Project Extend Courses Fargotstein's ...... 37 Gaber & Company ...... 7 AWl's continuing education program offers one-week and two-week classes in various phases of watch & clock repair techniques. Work alongside recognized leaders in the field of horology. See how they handle the everyday situations we all encounter. All Project Extend classes are held in AWl's training rooms in Harrison, Ohio. Call or write for information Grobet USA-Vigor ...... 17 and details for the classes that interest you! DEADLINE FOR REGISTRATION IS 30 DAYS BEFORE THE SCHEDULED DATE OF THE CLASS. To register for these courses, please mail, phone, fax or e-mail your registration and payment information to: American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030. Phone Grund mann, lngeborg ...... 27 (513) 367-9800, Fax (513) 367-1414, E-mail: [email protected]. Please include a check or your Visa or Mastercard number, card expiration date, signature and phone number. All registration fee checks and charges are processed imme­ diately upon receipt. Guenther's ...... 23

Academy of Watchmaking Lubertus H. Hayenga Co ...... 41 INSTRUCTORS: James E. Lubic, CMW & Stewart Lesemann L & R Manufacturing ...... 11

DATE CLASS & FEE DATE CLASS & FEE S. LaRose, Inc ...... 39 JULY 1999 OCTOBER 1999 12-16 Basic Horology (Sawing & Filing) 11-15 Staffing, Truing & Poising $250.00 $250.00 Livesay's, Inc ...... 13 19-23 Basic Horology (Horological Theory) 25-29 Hairspring Vibrating & Timing Adjustments $250.00 $250.00 26-30 Machine Shop Practices Maxell Corp...... back cover $250.00 NOVEMBER 1999 1-5 Automatic Mechanisms AUGUST 1999 $250.00 McCaw Co., William S...... 3 2-6 Introduction to Watchmakers Lathe & 15-19 Calendar Mechanisms Cross Slide Practices $250.00 $250.00 9-13 Cases, Bands, Crystals & Case Repair 29-Dec. 3 21st Century Watchmaking Microstamp Corp ...... 29 $250.00 $250.00 1&-20 Introduction to Watch Repair $250.00 Smith Supply House ...... 43 23-8ept. 3 1G-Day Lathe Program $680.00 Jewelry School Twin City Supply ...... 21 SEPTEMBER 1999 7-10 Mainsprings & Barrels DATE CLASS Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp ...... 31 $250.00 INSTRUCTOR FEE 13-17 Time Train, Dial Train and Friction Jeweling $250.00 AUGUST 1999 Witschi Electronics USA Ltd ...... 17 2G-24 Drawing the Lever Escapement 16-20 Course I - Introduction to Jewelry Repair $250.00 David Christianson $595.00 27-0ct. 1 Adjusting the Lever Escapement TO BE ANNOUNCED Zantech ...... 15 $250.00 Course II - Anvanced Jewelry Repair Tim Schlotter $595.00

48 Horological Times July 1999 It's Here! Our New Case Parts Catalog 2000 our New case Parts Reference contains over 68,000 listings for Bulova, Citizen, and Hattori case numbers. That's 19,000 more than our last printing. The catalog lists case number with corresponding crystal, crown and stem in 295 pages. An invaluable tool for any watchmaker. 5 95 case Parts catalog 2000 ...... 14 A cas-l

Domed Mineral Thick Regular Waterproof Glass Crystals Mineral Glass Mineral Glass Crowns Crystals Crystals

Assortment CKXD-24 Assortment TK-29 includes Assortment CKX-100 Assortment CK-91 contains includes 1 each of 24 domed 29 popular sizes: 18.0- 32.0 includes 100 flat round 1 each yellow and white crystals sizes 18.0 to 31.5 in 1/2 sizes, 1.80-2.00mm crystals 1.00mm thick in the crowns, 36 numbers, 72 pes. including 1/2 sizes. thick. most popular sizes, 14.0 - total. Two Micron Premium 95 CKXD-24 ...... $4995 TK-29 ...... $4995 ~~~~1oo ...... SSS ~~~:~...... $3995 Refills ...... $3.00ea 3@ $2.50 Refills ...... $5.50ea Refills ...... $1.25ea Refills ...... $5.55/3 $15.00/12 call 1•800•487•0408 Fax 1-800-487-5848 Cincinnati Call513/241-7073 Fax 513/241-5848 as· 0. - 2121 SPRING GROVE AVE PO BOX 14069 CINCINNATI OH 45250-0069 THOSE WHO PUT

THEIR NAME

ON THE OUTSIDE,

PREFER 0 u R NAME

ON THE INsIDE.

QuALITY. INNOVATION. LONGEVITY. maxell THE WORLD LEADER IN MICRO BATTERY TECHNOLOGY