“Wild” Blackberries Blackberries for the Home Garden Rubus laciniatus Rubus ursinus ‘Evergreen’ Dr. Bernadine Strik, Professor of Horticulture The only true PNW native Introduced in 1800’s Extension Berry Crops Specialist Oregon State University
Rubus armeniacus ‘Himalaya’ Introduced in 1800’s
Male plant female plant
Aggregate fruit of many Terminology: Fruiting Lateral drupelets calyx Marion during harvest
drupelet Drupelet: Section of a berry Each has a seed The receptacle is part of the “berry” fruit we eat
Primocanes Floricanes First year Second year Sliced blackberry fruit Always vegetative Always fruiting Floricanes at budbreak
Blackberries Three types of blackberries:
Erect e.g. ‘Ouachita’
Marion Trailing e.g. ‘Marion’ ‘Boysen’ ’
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/ Semi-erect Ouachita e.g. ‘Triple Crown’ Triple Crown
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 1 Trailing Blackberries Planting Establishment: Trailing Blackberries • Cultivars include – Marion, Obsidian, Black Diamond, Columbia Star – Hybrids: Boysen, Logan • Fruit tend to be oblong, have relatively small seeds, and have a highly aromatic, good flavor • Fruit from late June through August, depending on cultivar
Trailing blackberry Trailing Blackberries Primocanes are not tipped/pruned in summer
Every-year production: Floricanes trained on wires
Plant 3.5 to 5 ft apart At harvest time Rows 10 ft apart Install trellis in planting year (wires at 6 ft & 4.5 ft) Train primocanes as they grow Hoop for training new primocanes
Trailing blackberries Trailing blackberries During harvest (generally July) After fruit harvest is done (mid- late August)
Cut dying floricanes and remove from the trellis wires
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 2 Trailing blackberries Trailing Blackberries Training primocanes
Dying floricane, after pruning out Divide primocanes into two bundles
Train half one way on trellis and the other in the opposite direction
Primocanes ready for training
Train in: • August or • February (colder regions)
Trailing Blackberries Trailing Blackberries Training primocanes Training primocanes
Loop bundles August trained around the two upper training wires
Before training in Feb.
OR
Trailing Blackberries Re-growth should be tucked by late winter Trailing blackberries August-trained:
Late winter
Early spring Photo taken in October
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 3 Erect Blackberries Erect blackberries . Floricane and primocane- 2 to 3’ in the row with 10’ between rows fruiting types . Relatively large seeds . Less aromatic than trailing types . Ripen July – late August for floricane fruiting types & Sept.-Nov. for primocane-fruiting types
Erect blackberry ‘Ouachita’ erect blackberry primocane after summer tipping
. Tip primocanes in summer to about 3’-4’ high . Do this several times to catch all in the field . This encourages branching
Erect blackberry Primocane-fruiting erect blackberry
. Can use a simple trellis . Prune in winter, when dormant to shorten the branches Can double-crop (primocane + floricane) or single-crop (just primocane) Dormant primocanes after pruning
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 4 Pruning Tip (at 3 ft)
Tip primocane • Remove 4 to 12 inches of the cane tip • If tip of cane shows 3 ft tall flower buds it is too late to tip
June 3
Tip (at 3 ft)
Tipped primocane
New primocanes emerging from roots
June 3 June 7
Pruning Pruning Fruit produced on branches Fruit produced on branches Branches growing Branches longer Branches flowering
• Will fruit at tip Primocane development (how much • Branches will grow depends on region) June 17 July 27 July 27
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 5 Pruning Pruning – plants go dormant Fruit produced on branches
Autumn/Winter • Cold temperatures stop fruiting and branch tips die
August 30
Fruiting season cut short by weather Pruning for two crops in many temperate or continental climates
Prepare for floricane crop • Prune to remove dead portions of canes
End of October
Floricane crop Semi-erect Blackberries . Primarily for fresh market . Mainly ‘Chester Thornless’ and ‘Triple Crown’ (best flavor!) . Relatively large seeds . Less aromatic than trailing types Floricane crop . Ripen early August-Oct. • Fruit produced on laterals that emerge from portion of healthy buds remaining
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 6 Semi-erect blackberries 6’ x 10 to 12’ spacing Semi-erect blackberry
Primocanes summer tipped to about 5 - 6’ Branches may be further pruned in winter Dead floricanes are removed
Primocanes have strong apical dominance and Floricane at bud break benefit from tipping.
Branches are more Tip primocanes to ~ 5’ productive
Established blackberry Publication: o Fertilize with about 2 to 2.5 oz N/plant in spring o Divide into thirds (early April; late May; late June) o For example: 4 to 5 oz of 16-16-16 per application per plant
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/
‘Marion’ also known as “marionberry” Cultivars: Black Diamond (thornless) Trailing types Marion (thorny; previous slide)
Obsidian
Logan Boysen (Hybrids) Columbia Star (thornless)
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 7 Cultivars (all regions): Winter Cold Injury Ouachita (erect; thornless) Triple Crown (semi-erect; thornless) Poor bud break due to cold damage
Cane damage & poor bud break in trailing blackberry
Primary bud killed by cold Sliced cane showing damage to bud base.
PrimeArk®-45 (erect; primocane fruiter)
Cane Diseases Heat/u.v. Damage . Cane & leaf spot (Septoria) . Purple blotch Sunburn to semi-erect blackberry Heat damage to a trailing type
Botrytis Cane & Leaf Rust Cane & leaf rust (Khuneola sp.) . Remove and burn infected floricanes right after harvest . Apply dormant copper sprays
. Disease is promoted by a warm, moist environment . Maintain an open canopy . Avoid overhead irrigation and late watering
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 8 Downy mildew Red Berry Mite . Systemic – known to affect ‘Kotata’ & ‘Boysen’ . No home products registered that are effective . Practice good weed control • Use dormant oil and lime sulfur Dried fruit often split sprays in dormant season
Section of berry affected by mites
Mite is only 1/50” long
Receptacle
Drupelet Lesions on leaves follow veins
Leaves are chlorotic Leaf Roller Larvae Herbicide Damage and strap-like Phytotoxicity from Round-Up R
Watch for leaf rolling and kill larvae before enter fruit
larva
Orange Tortrix adult
Spotted Wing Drosophila Crown Borer Actual size Drosophila suzukii 2-3 mm
. Two-year life cycle . Adult lays eggs on leaves . Larvae burrow into crown and into new primocanes Female with serrated ovipositor . Canes collapse Male with spotted wings . Only home control is rouging out infected plants From OSU Extension Publication, EM8991
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 9 Spotted Wing Drosophila Brown Marmorated Stink Bug Crown Gall (BMSB) . Bacterium in plant . No control other than AND soil exclusion nets . Cultivar differences in susceptibility . No control . Disinfect pruners to avoid spread
Courtesy, WSU BMSB on late-fruiting blackberry
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 10 http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/ Blueberries for the Home Garden Free Resources Dr. Bernadine Strik, Professor of Horticulture Extension Berry Crops Specialist Oregon State University
Pruning Video
What do plants need? Site - Full sun is important Blueberry plants with only a few hours of sun do not Full sun grow well Acid soil (pH 4.5 to 5.5) Good organic matter in soil Good drainage
Strawberry inter-planted Photos: Neil Bell, OSU
Symptoms of soil pH being too high Blueberry plants are well-suited to containers
“lime induced iron deficiency”
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 1 Blueberry plants are well-suited to containers Blueberry plants are well-suited to containers
Relatively shallow root system Plant growing in a 5 gallon container
Site – Think about pH Before Planting: . Test soil – 6 months prior to planting (previous fall typically) Test for soil pH and nutrient levels . In the fall, incorporate any materials needed to achieve target pH of about 5.5 prior to planting . In spring, incorporate Douglas fir bark mulch or sawdust (~ 4 inches deep tilled in) . Form or build raised beds, if possible
Ripening dates in Western Oregon Publication:
Bluetta Various cultivars Duke “Blueberry Cultivars for the Pacific Earliblue are grown to extend Northland Northwest” Bluegold Spartan the fruiting season Draper Reka from late June to Bluejay Toro early Sept. in Olympia Berkeley northern highbush Bluecrop Northern Rubel highbush Jersey and Aug.- Oct. Nelson 1613-A in rabbiteye Legacy Liberty Brigitta Blue Darrow Chandler Ozarkblue Elliott Aurora Maru Rahi Ochlockonee Rabbiteye Tifblue Powderblue http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/
13-Jun 23-Jun 3-Jul 13-Jul 23-Jul 2-Aug 12-Aug 22-Aug 1-Sep 11-Sep 21-Sep
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 2 Cultivars Jersey Cultivars Northern Highbush – all areas Highbush – Willamette Valley and coast only
Spartan
Chandler Legacy Mini Blues
Bluecrop Liberty Darrow
Cultivars Cultivars Rabbiteye – Willamette Valley only Half-high – All regions Ochlockonee . Many cultivars . Very cold hardy . Compact growth habit (1 to 4 ft tall) . Don’t need much pruning . Nice ornamentals . Yields range from 1 to 7 lb/bush
Pick 2 for cross Pink Lemonade pollination Powder Blue
Pick 2 for cross pollination North Country
Nursery plants Planting –rough up roots, if needed:
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 3 Planting – set at same depth as nursery pot: Planting – “Don’ts” . Do NOT leave fruit buds on at planting . Do NOT leave too much fruit on young plants (in second year) Producing fruit in the first and second growing season (if plants are not vigorous enough) reduces plant growth
Plant allowed to produce fruit in first year; also poor plant “form”
‘Bluecrop’. Left: Plant allowed to produce fruit in year 1 and 2; Right: plant pruned to produce no fruit in year 1 and 2
Pruning to limit fruiting on young plants Pruning at planting – prior to first growing season
• Be able to identify flower buds • On most nursery plants, remove the flower buds
Before pruning After pruning
Pruning a new plant for no fruit Pruning at planting (preceding first season) (Pruning at bloom) Legacy
Before pruning After pruning Before After
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 4 Pruning “larger” sized nursery plants Pruning – impact on growth . Prune plants to shape & remove MOST of fruit buds or flowers
After pruning New “larger” plant: before pruning
Chandler New whip from basal bud Vigorous growth from pruned wood
Plant growth, first year Wood age Plant with good growth Plants in second year - in planting year irrigation Promote good growth: • Irrigate well • Remove weeds • Fertilize well
Two-year-old cane with nice laterals for next Pruned bush showing season’s crop Whips complement of old from plant and new canes base
Mature plants with weed mat – drip irrigation underneath Planting year – drip irrigation lines
New shoots
Whip 1-year cane – growing season 2-year cane (fruiting)
End of Year 1 During Year 2 End of Year 2
2-year cane – 3-year cane – 3-year cane growing season growing season For good fruit production need a “balanced plant” with good pruning and fertilization for fruit During Year 3 End of Year 3 During Year 4 production & growth
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 5 What 1-year-old wood (laterals) are most productive?
Better lateral to keep
Pruners pointing to poor lateral. Should be removed
Too many buds left previous winter (too much fruit; too little growth)
“Twiggy” growth 9 • 1-year-old short, “twiggy” laterals at red arrows. These will not produce good fruit 8 quality 7 • How old is this cane? 6 • Why was growth so poor this past year on this 3-year-old cane? 5 • Too many laterals were left 3 4 when pruning last winter 1
2 2
3
1
‘Duke’ going into fourth growing season (year 4) ‘Duke’ going into fourth growing season (year 4)
After pruning crew done, but needs a bit more pruning
Too many laterals on this lower section of the cane and in upper mid-left
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 6 ‘Duke’ going into fourth growing season (year 4) ‘Duke’ going into fourth growing season (year 4)
With some additional pruning, bush is Laterals that are too better shifted toward short left in this encouraging more section. One cut vegetative growth would remove this
Renovation of poorly maintained/pruned bushes Blueberry plants are well-suited to containers
New whips grow
Plant growing in a 5 gallon container Poor growth
Cut to above crown height in winter
Partial crop year later
Growing in raised beds or containers: Potting media: . An appropriate potting medium (“soil”) in container or bed . Blueberries require a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 . A well-sized container (16 inch diam. x 12 inch deep – 12 . Potting soil/compost not ideal for berries gallons or larger) or 2 ft-deep raised bed . Poor drainage (and porosity) . Not long-lived in a container . Ensure good downward drainage below raised bed so it . May not be at correct pH for ideal growth (e.g. yard doesn’t behave like a “bath tub” compost and manure have pH 7 – 8) . Locate in a sunny location . Ideal mix has bark, peat, and perlite – proportions vary . Good irrigation/watering to get ideal pH and drainage for berry crop being grown . Good fertilization . Good pruning/training
Neil Bell, OSU
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 7 Potting media: Irrigation: • Monitor pots carefully to avoid under- or over-irrigating • Just irrigate to the point of water draining out bottom • Pot must dry out some between waterings • Use hand or drip systems
Blueberry: • 50% bark • 40% peat moss • 10% perlite (pumice)
http://www.dripworks.com/product/Q_MRS/sprayers
Irrigation: Irrigation: ‘Spartan’ blueberry sensitive to over-watering ‘Spartan’ blueberry response after reducing irrigation frequency
Irrigation was reduced to 4 days per week (despite growth) at 3 quarts/pot
July 27 – plant recovered Irrigation was every other May 2 - symptoms day at 3 quarts/pot
Irrigation: Fertilization – what types of fertilizers are best? Water and salt stress . Blueberry plants only take up the ammonium form of + nitrogen (N) – NH4 . Use inorganic fertilizers with the NH4 type of N – ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) or urea (46-0-0) . Many organic fertilizer options – they differ in N content . Fish (e.g. 4-1-1); feather meal (e.g. 13-0-0); blood meal (e.g. 13-0-0); soybean or cotton seed meal (e.g. 7-1-2); coffee grounds (e.g. 2-0-0) . bone meal (e.g. 0-12-0) note no N . Composts when used as a light mulch . Do not use fresh manures; use composted manures . Yard debris compost has a high pH (7-8) but is good nutrient source (e.g. 1-24-6) & good source of organic matter
Too little water
Too much fertilizer and too little water
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 8 Fertilization – With fresh sawdust in the row Fertilization Product to apply PER SEASON (with fresh sawdust applied in the CURRENT season) . Rate of nitrogen (N) fertilizer to apply increases with plant age and whether a fresh sawdust mulch has been added Soybean meal (7-1-2) . Fertilizer needs to be divided throughout spring period for Rate of total N Diluted fish {cottonseed best growth per plant per Ammonium solution (1:10; Feather meal meal is Planting age season sulfate (21-0-0) Fish (4-1-1) fish:water) (13-0-0) similar} . For inorganic fertilizer products: (oz/plant) (ounces/plant) (lb/plant) (cups/plant) (lb/plant) (lb/plant) Start at early bloom Finish in June/July 1 (planting year) 0.7 3.5 1.1 1.8 0.4 0.7 2 1.0 4.9 1.6 2.6 0.5 0.9 3 1.2 5.6 1.8 2.9 0.6 1.0 4 1.2 5.9 2.0 3.1 0.6 1.1 5 1.4 6.6 2.2 3.5 0.7 1.2 6 1.5 7.3 2.4 3.9 0.7 1.4 7 1.8 8.7 2.9 4.6 0.9 1.6 8+ 2.1 9.8 3.2 5.1 1.0 1.8 1. Distribute all fertilizer in over as much of the root area as possible (circular area from crown to drip line edge) 2. Divide feather, soy, and cotton seed meal products into two applications (half in late March and the other half in mid May) 3. Divide fish & water solution into 7 equal applications starting at bloom (about the first week of April through the end of June -- every 2 weeks) 4. Note: one gallon of fish weighs about 10 pounds
Fertilization: Fertilization: Many sources of fertilizer work Calculating amount of fertilizer to apply – look at the label!
Conventional: Organic:
Slow release over 14% N (8.2% NH -N) 4 months (goal to 4 fertilize once)
Water-soluble, immediately available (fertilize frequently)
24% N (most NH4-N)
Fertilization: Fertilization: • Label gives %N in product; no directions on how much to apply for berries on this product label • 0.4 ounces ÷ 0.082 = 5 oz. product • Calculate based on N recommendation in berry publications • Approximately equal to ½ cup • 4 month release so apply all at once • For example: First year blueberry plant and work into soil a bit requires 0.4 ounces of ammonium N • Water in (total)
• Total amount of product to apply =
(total N recommended ÷ % N-NH4 in product)
• 0.4 ounces ÷ 0.082 = 5 oz. product
14% N (8.2% NH4-N) 8.2% NH4-N = 8.2/100 = 0.082
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 9 Fertilization: Harvest . Fruit will increase in size by ~ 20% after they first turn blue Calculating amount of fertilizer to apply – look at the label! . Pick fruit about every 5 days • I apply 1 Tbsp product/ 1 gallon water and use 3 cups of . Fruit stores well in the fridge this per plant. This is 0.08 oz. product/application. I do this weekly (need about 21 applications to get N needed).
Expect 10 to 20 lb fruit/bush on mature highbush blueberry plants, depending on the cultivar
24% N (most NH4-N)
Common Problems in the Home Garden Reducing Soil pH AFTER planting: pH Problems In existing plantings where soil pH is too high: . Apply 3 ounces of elemental sulfur (S) per plant . Check pH one year later and if more is needed, apply no “lime induced iron deficiency” more than 3 oz/plant again Do this in autumn as the S needs to react with water to acidify the soil and this takes time
Symptoms of soil pH being too high
Weeds Weeds . Blueberry plants cannot . Mulches must be maintained to compete with weeds be effective . Remove by hand pulling or use mulches well
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 10 Bacterial Blight Mummy berry . Cultivars differ in sensitivity (Pseudomonas syringae) (Monilinia vaccinii-corymbosi) . Find and remove/burn mummies
. Very common . Controls not effective . Cultivars differ in sensitivity . Prune out affected shoots in late winter
Botrytis (gray mold) Anthracnose ripe rot (Botrytis cinerea) [Colletotrichum acutatum (sexual: Glomerella acutata)]
Alternaria fruit rot (Alternaria tenuissima) . Usually affects clusters . Prune well to an open canopy . Green fruit botrytis occurs . Avoid overhead irrigation sometimes . Prune well to an open canopy . Avoid overhead irrigation
Blueberry Shock Virus . Pollen borne Blueberry Shock Virus . Flowers blight . Infected plants do not repeat cycle every year Plant in “shock” year with no fruit; has . Plants appear to recover & good growth reach full yield
Leaf symptoms on shock infected plant in year 2
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 11 Spotted Wing Drosophila – SWD Birds . Birds will peck or take whole fruit (Drosophila suzukii) . Plots can be netted Presence of small white larvae . Scare devices have limited usefulness
www.spottedwing.com
Voles (also known as field mice) Native Blueberries (also called “huckleberries”)
Vaccinium parvifolium
Courtesy: WSU
. Populations fluctuate . Will eat roots on plants & have been shown to damage young plants . They “love” living under weed mat . Open up weed mat in winter to encourage depredation
V. ovatum “Evergreen huckleberry” Can be grown as a hedge
Vaccinium ovatum Native Blueberries (also called “huckleberries”)
Vaccinium membranaceum (big huckleberry) V. scoparium (grouseberry) V. cespitosum (dwarf huckleberry) V. occidentale (western bog blueberry)
All native to NE Oregon
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 12 Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 13 Growing Table Grapes in the Home Garden What can you grow? Dr. Bernadine Strik, Professor of Horticulture Extension Berry Crops Professor There are basically three types of table grapes:
American cultivars (Vitis labrusca)
European cultivars (Vitis vinifera)
Hybrid cultivars (parentage includes American & European)
American types (Vitis labrusca) European types (Vitis vinifera) Native to Eastern USA Native to southeastern Europe Fruit have stronger, characteristic “foxy flavor” Most common type for wine and commercial table grapes Berries usually have a slip skin (skin separates from pulp) Fruit have milder flavor Plants are generally vigorous Berries on table grapes may have “crispy” texture Most resistant to disease and insects (e.g. phylloxera) Cultivars range in vigor Important cultivars: ‘Concord’ and ‘Niagara’ juice grapes Least resistant to disease and insects
Flame Seedless
Hybrid types American types (Vitis labrusca) or hybrids Characteristics range, depending on cultivar
Jupiter Price Concord
Swenson Red
Reliance Canadice Vanessa
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 1 o Full sun American types (Vitis labrusca) or hybrids o Well-drained soil o Wide tolerance for soil pH New York Muscat o Space o Avoid “frost pockets”
Venus Niagara
Lakemont Remaily Seedless Interlaken Courtesy: Neil Bell, OSU Extension
Pruning/training options Growth stages (dates for Willamette Valley)
Dormant (Nov.-Mar.) Budbreak (early April) Shoot growth
Ready for harvest (early Sept.-mid Oct.)
Bloom Veraison (early June) (color change) mid-August
At planting Single downward canopy, pruning example . Prune to 2 buds . Select one shoot to become trunk, remove all others
Courtesy: Patty Skinkis, OSU Extension
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 2 . Train shoot/trunk as it After pruning in first winter grows .Top at wire or arc along wire Trunk did not make the 6 ft depending on training system wire or vine vigor
Establishing the vine “framework” (year 2)
• Pick shoots in proper locations
• Remove all un-wanted shoots
• When dormant, shorten each of the canes to limit fruit production
Before pruning in first After pruning & tying winter
Concentrating growth (suckering) First cropping year (year 3 or 4)
Remove shoots along trunk, keeping ones in proper locations
Fruiting zone
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 3 Cane Pruning
Shoot
Cane left at Trunk pruning last winter P. Skinkis
Cane Pruning, example Cane Pruning – what not to do Two-cane vertical system By mistake, all one-year-old wood was removed leaving only two-year old wood. There will be no fruit this year!
Select 2 new 2-year-old wood 1-year-old canes close to trunk Before Pruning
After pruning After pruning
Mature Vines (Year 4 or 5): Spur pruning Spur Pruning
Some table grapes are not suited to spur pruning as the basal buds are not fertile Spur
Cordon
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 4 Spur Pruning – what not to do Training to an arbor Distribute fruiting canes along trunk so that shoots fill arbor. Cane prune
Vine trunk Arbor
Geneva Double Curtain (GDC)
“T” trellis at 6-6.5’ high with wire on each side of “T” and a center training wire Arms
Top view: wire arms
Multiple trunks not necessary wire Fruiting canes
Geneva Double Curtain (GDC) Establishing a GDC
Before pruning
It is important to make the shoots hang down in 2 “curtains” and keep the center open for good light exposure
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 5 Trellising
Train on a fence?
Establishing a GDC
After pruning
Anchors
Head training (no trellis needed) Additional spring & summer pruning for good quality
Compound bud
Longnitudinal section
Up to 3 shoots/node Shoot thinning:
Done in spring to bring crop down to target level and maintain a good canopy
1o shoot most fruitful 2o shoot less fruitful (~50% in V. labrusca 3o shoot un-fruitful Remove all but most fruitful shoot/node
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 6 Shoot thinning Remove all but most Suckering fruitful shoot/node Remove suckers at base & head of vine through season
Done in spring to bring crop down to target level and maintain a good canopy
Leaf removal: Leaf removal:
Proper stage of development for Leaves removed in fruiting zone on east side of row leaf removal just after fruit set to improve cluster exposure
Do not over crop vines! Harvest Vines that are not pruned hard enough will have poor fruit set, fruit color/quality and late fruit maturation • Is fruit mature? Poor set – seedless cultivar Poor set – seeded cultivar
• Grapes do not further ripen after harvest
• Taste the fruit Good set
• Sweetness increases, acidity decreases and flavor improves to a point as grapes mature
• Improper cultivar or under-pruned vine may ripen fruit too late
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 7 Common problems Fruit rot (Botrytis)
Powdery Mildew A wet weather disease
Disease can affect leaves too
Grape erineum mite Colonies of mites live in “blisters” 2,4-D herbicide damage
. Damage due to herbicide drift
. Do not spray any products containing 2,4-D near grapes. They are very sensitive
. Will reduce current season crop and may reduce Top of leaf next year’s crop Dormant oil & sulfur sprays Bottom of leaf usually control this pest
Bees Birds Netting is an effective way to protect against Honey bees less bird damage of problem than yellow jackets
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 8 Healthy cambium Sunburn of Clusters
Early sunburn Damaged cane Usually caused by Late sunburn clusters suddenly Partial winter damage becoming exposed to Winter cold injury sun due to loss (or Symptoms removal) of leaves during hot weather Damaged compound bud
Full winter damage Healthy bud European grapes most susceptible
For European grapes in Eastern Oregon Resources: “Growing Table Grapes”, by B. Strik, OSU Extension Service
This and other OSU Extension publications at: http://catalogue.extension.oregonstate.edu
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 9 Miscellaneous Berry Crops Planting Requirements: Dr. Bernadine Strik, Professor of Horticulture Extension Berry Crops Specialist . Full sun and good soil . Incorporate compost/organic matter . These berries grow well on a soil pH of 5.8 – 6.5 . Make raised beds to improve drainage in kiwifruit
. Plant in spring . Buy nice, disease-free plants (usually in 1 gal. pots) . Plant NO deeper than the original potting mix . Do not add fertilizer to the planting hole . Control weeds . Irrigate well
Ornamental kiwi vines in the landscape Kiwi Vines Actinidia kolomikta
Actinidia polygama Male vine
Male vine
Female vine
Female vine
Dinkos.com.au
Odysseyperennials.com Actinidia purpurea
Types of kiwifruit in the PNW • “Fuzzy” kiwifruit (Actinidia deliciosa) large fruit; skin not “edible”; not cold hardy enough for cold regions • “Arctic” kiwifruit (A. kolomikta) small fruit with edible skin; cold hardy; vines need shade; nice ornamental (bitter fruit) • “Hardy” or “Baby” kiwifruit (A. arguta) small fruit with edible skin; cold hardy; fruit will vine ripen; great flavor
Vigorous, deciduous, perennial vine Climbing
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 1 “Fuzzy” Kiwifruit: “Hardy” Kiwifruit: • This species (A. arguta) is Hayward hardy to -10 to -25o F Very late (doesn’t vine ripen) • very vigorous plants Large fruit Skin covered with brown “fuzz” Ananasnaya good, sweet flavor when ripened Early (Vine ripens in late Sept) Vine needs 225 to 240 frost-free days Small fruit Only hardy to 10o F; often see cold Excellent aromatic flavor damage in Willamette Valley Skin is smooth and edible; develops Ananasnaya a red blush in the sun
Issai Early Smaller fruit than Ananasnaya Excellent aromatic flavor All “fuzzy” kiwifruit vines need a male (A. deliciosa) Skin is smooth and edible Plants are self-fertile, but fruit benefit from cross pollination
Ken’s Red The Hardy Kiwifruit
Need male plant for fruit production on female
Unripe vine ripe
Vine ripe unripe A. purpurea
Year 1, training trunk
Year 2: training cordons
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 2 Pruning Vines • Prune female vines in the winter (Dec. - Feb.)
• Prune male vines lightly in winter and prune heavy in summer, after bloom (in mid-June)
Year 3 growing shoots off cordons
Pruning Vines (Starting: Year 3 or 4) The Hardy Kiwifruit Male vine after pruning in late June
3 to 4 year old vine before pruning
Pruning Vines Pruning Vines (Starting: Year 3 or 4)
Wood selection
This pruning is Cordon (one in each direction) recommended when there is a strong basal vegetative shoot Fruiting canes (15-20/cordon)
Diagram shows where fruit was produced last 3 to 4 year old vine after season pruning
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 3 Mature T-bar, spring
Flower buds
Fruiting cane
Harvest Mature yield has ranged from 60 to 130 lb/vine
• Kiwifruit do further ripen after harvest
• Color is not a good indication of maturity -- measure Brix if you can or judge by date
Harvest of Hardy Kiwifruit Harvest of “Fuzzy” Kiwifruit Vine ripe ‘Ananasnaya’ Can be harvested in early Sept. ‘Hayward’ does not vine ripen. at a Brix of 8-10. Harvest when fruit have black Seeds will be black seeds and are “ripe” enough to ripen off the vine. Typically after the first hard frost in the Willamette Valley. Fruit will tolerate light frost
‘Hayward’ If you don’t have a refractometer, pick fruit at “hard” green stage when about 5% of fruit are soft Immature fruit will have Physiologically or pick as vine brown seeds. This fruit will ripe ‘Ananasnaya’ ripen not ripen normally if picked
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 4 Storage of Kiwifruit Winter Cold Damage • “store” fruit on the vine as long ‘Hayward’ most sensitive as possible Protect vines by using trunk wraps • In hardy kiwifruit, soft, vine ripe in cold areas fruit will not store. Pick fruit for storing when physiologically mature and still hard and green
• Store fuzzy kiwifruit in a cold garage or fridge for about 1 month before trying to ripen; once softening starts ripen Winter cold damage batches at room temperature. Store all types in vented plastic to trunk of ‘Hayward’ bags as close to 32 ºF as possible
• Remove soft, ripe fruit for eating, or ripen at room temperature Young hardy kiwifruit vines can also benefit from • Fuzzy kiwifruit will keep for months, hardies for about 4 weeks having trunk wraps
Frost Damage
Frost damage in hardy kiwifruit Occurs in all types of kiwi at temperatures below 32 ºF Even though hardy kiwifruit have good cold tolerance, buds/shoots will break early in year. Frost damaged buds/ shoots produce no fruit.
The entire crop can be lost to frost
Overhead irrigation is used commercially Rowcovers might work in the home garden
Root rot Fruit Damage from rubbing
All are very sensitive to root rot
Plant on sites with good drainage
Use raised beds
Mature vines can die from root rot
Vines with root rot will show dead areas Fruit scarring can occur like this when the bark is scraped away on This is usually the result of the crown/trunk fruit rubbing together or against leaf stems
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 5 Sunburn damage to exposed fruit
‘Kens Red’ early October. Manage canopy to try to minimize fruit exposure
Currants & Gooseberries
Gooseberry
Currants
Ribes aureum Ribes sanguineum
Pruning Red currant wood in winter Spurs on two-year- old wood
Currants are thornless & Non-productive gooseberries are thorny one-year-old wood
• Red currants and gooseberries produce most fruit on spurs on two- and three-year-old wood Bushes grow 2-6’ tall • Keep 10-12 canes/bush (about a third each of strong one-, two-, and three-year-old wood)
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 6 Production Problems Aphids Currant borer
Adult is a moth Larvae tunnel in canes Infested canes wilt Red currants most susceptible
Remove infected canes and destroy
Bottom of leaf Top of leaf
Imported Currant Powdery mildew Worm (sawfly) Leaves and fruit infected Adult is a sawfly on susceptible cultivars Larvae feed on leaves defoliating canes Plant resistant cultivars Ensure good air circulation
Haskap Haskap Lonicera caerulea “honeyberry”, “edible honeysuckle”
• Well-adapted to all areas in Oregon • Best cultivars have been bred (selected here) by Dr. Maxine Thompson: Hoka; Kaido; Solo; Taka; Tana; Keiko; Kawai; Chito; Maxie • Starting to become available at US nurseries • Plants need irrigation but are broadly • Well-adapted to all areas in adapted to various soils Oregon • Native to Japan • Flowers are frost tolerant • Berries tart but flavorful • Great for processing
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 7 Lingonberry Vaccinium vitis-idaea Same family as blueberry Need acid, high organic matter soil Plants have rhizomes and can spread vegetatively
Native to the circumpolar boreal region.
A creeping, evergreen species
There are two bloom periods (spring and summer) and so ‘Red Pearl’ two crops/year. Plants grow about 1.5’ tall. ‘Koralle’
Need cross pollination for fruit production
Full sun, low pH, high organic matter
Low fertilization
Elderberry Amelanchier alnifolia “Service Berry” or “Saskatoons” Sambucus canadensis
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 8 Aronia melanocarpa the “chokeberry” Goji Berry (Wolf berry) Lycium barbarum
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 9 Raspberries for the Home Garden Dr. Bernadine Strik, Professor of Horticulture Extension Berry Crops Specialist Oregon State University
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/
Aggregate fruit of many drupelets Oregon Natives:
Rubus spectabilis calyx The “salmon berry”
receptacle drupelet
Rubus parviflorus Rubus leucodermis The “thimble berry” Native black raspberry
“blackcap”
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 1 Morphology Raspberry types
• Primocane: first year cane, often vegetative Red raspberries • Floricane: second year cane, always flowering/fruiting; Summer-bearing (June-July) • Canes are biennial (cane or cane portion dies after fruiting) Primocane-fruiting (“everbearing”) – (Aug-Oct) • Roots and crown (base of plant) are perennial Black raspberries Primocane Summer-bearing (June) winter Growing season Floricane May fruit at tip in Produces fruiting Purple raspberries Primocane-fruiting types laterals in spring Summer-bearing (June-July)
Primocanes grow
Floricanes die Fruiting
Planting, summer-bearing red raspberry First year summer-bearing raspberry planting o Fertilize with 0.5 to 1 oz N/plant divided into thirds (2 weeks after planting; 1 month later; 1 month later) o For example: 1 to 2 oz of 16-16-16 per Dormant canes planted on raised bed application per plant
o Plant 2 to 2.5 ft apart in the row
New primocane growth (on a raised bed) Winter after planting
Hedgerow (management/training system) Hill System in winter – see individual plants remove suckers between plants and in aisles . Individual plants not readily visible; have a “solid” hedge of canes . Maintain hedgerow to 0.5 to 1 ft wide
Hedgerow is too wide
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 2 Summer-bearing red raspberry Floricane Development Primocane & Floricane Development – Spring
Fruiting laterals growing on floricanes
New primocanes emerging from crown & roots Fruiting laterals on floricanes
Harvest….. Post- harvest….. August June-July
Summer-bearing red raspberry, after harvest, floricanes are dying and can be pruned out at this point (especially if disease present). Can also wait until fall
Prune out dead floricanes Dying floricanes Prune out dead or dying floricanes
Dying floricanes Primocanes
Primocane
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 3 Prune out dead or dying floricanes Primocanes remaining after pruning
Tuck between wires
Single dying floricane
Dead fruiting lateral Bundle of dying floricanes removed from 1 plant
• Primocanes remaining after “caning out” Trellis • Do not prune further until fall/winter
Typical trellis system has 1 or 2 top wire(s) and 2 lower wires (in some cases moveable) but there are many variations
Can compost prunings; commercial growers chop them between rows
Summer-bearing red raspberry
Primocanes just prior to training
. Remove weak, broken canes . Remove canes outside row or hill . Bundle canes . Train canes
Prune primocanes from December to March
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 4 Arc Cane system Bundle (topped) system
Top canes to about 6 ft
Canes are slightly topped and then are trained and tied to adjacent plant or tying wire This is done in late winter to minimize risk of cold injury
Summer-bearing red raspberry Primocanes just prior to training Primocanes topped and bundle trained
Established summer-bearing raspberry Summer-bearing raspberry o Fertilize with about 1 to 1.5 oz N/plant in spring Mid-spring growth o Divide into thirds (early April; late May; late June) o For example: 2 to 3 oz of 16-16-16 per application per plant
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 5 Summer-bearing raspberry Publication: Late spring growth
Do NOT tip the primocanes “Raspberry Cultivars for the Pacific Northwest”
Control any emerging primocanes between rows by tillage or growing a http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/ grass cover crop
Cultivars (W. Oregon): Cultivars (W. Oregon): Summer-bearers – Root Rot resistance/tolerance Summer-bearers – More susceptible to root rot Cascade Bounty Prelude Meeker Willamette
Squamish
Nourse Farms Pat Moore Tulameen
Cascade Harvest
Cascade Delight Cascade Dawn Chemainus Cascade Gold
Cultivars (E. Oregon): Primocane-fruiting raspberry (“everbearers”) Cold-hardy summer-bearers with good flavor
Prelude Boyne Killarney Canby Cascade Bounty
Killarney
Tip of primocane produces fruit in its first year Photos: courtesy Nourse Farms
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 6 Primocane-fruiting raspberry Primocane-fruiting raspberry . Plant 2ft apart in the row Tip portion of primocane . 8-10ft between rows will fruit in planting year
Fruiting season is approx.
early August to frost
Primocanes start growing in spring at a certain node number (age), they bloom
Primocanes emerge from crowns and root buds
Primocane-fruiting raspberry Primocane-fruiting raspberry
Un-pruned primocane- fruiting raspberry in spring In second year, base of floricane will fruit in early Showing dead tip and summer basal floricane
Part of primocane that fruited (tip) dies
Primocane-fruiting raspberry in spring – “double cropping”
Primocane-fruiting raspberry, January, Monmouth
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 7 Primocane-fruiting Raspberries For a fall (primocane) crop only
Leave about a 3-4” stubble
No cane in winter so recommended for very cold sites Primocane-fruiting Raspberries
For a fall (primocane) crop only Before pruning Primocanes grow in spring
Primocane-fruiting Raspberries For a fall (primocane) crop only – early Spring
. New primocanes grow in spring . Maintain row to 1 to 1.5ft wide
After pruning
Cultivars (all regions for primocane crop only) Note: in cold regions, double-cropping will require you plant a cold-hardy cultivar; Raspberries in containers see cultivar publication Amity Heritage
Caroline Fall Gold
Anne BrazelberriesTM Fall Creek Farm & Vintage Nursery Raspberry Shortcake
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 8 Nursery plants Planting Spread roots flat
Cover with soil Raintree Nursery April 15
Trim long roots
New primocanes grow from basal cane stub & roots Primocane-fruiting raspberry - growth
3.5 months after planting
June 7 Primocanes emerge from crowns and root buds
Primocane-fruiting raspberry Black Raspberries
Jewel (only cultivar recommended for good production & flavor)
Trial and photos: B. Strik Early August Late August
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 9 Purple Raspberries Black raspberry Brandywine Hybrids of red and black raspberry Planting year . Plant 3 ft in the row on raised beds or flat ground . Install trellis in planting year (T post at about 4 ft high) . Train canes onto wires for harvest the following year
Royalty
Black raspberry Black raspberry Winter
Black raspberry Early spring Black raspberry floricane in spring
Primocanes only emerge from crown
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 10 Black raspberry Black raspberry field Spring – prior to first harvest . Primocanes have strong apical dominance . Tip (remove about 6 inches) during the growing season to get branching
Floricanes
Primocane tipped (pruned during growing season)
Tip rooting (when branches touch soil in late fall)
Dying floricanes Arcing primocane branches (Aug.)
Black raspberry Remove dead floricanes Shown here in summer Black raspberry dead floricanes in winter before pruning
Single dying floricane
Dead fruiting lateral
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 11 Black raspberry Black raspberry Dormant before pruning Dormant after pruning
Shorten branches on primocanes to about 2 ft
Dormant primocanes after pruning
Poor Fruit Set – Black raspberry Raspberry Bushy Dwarf Virus RBDV . Blackcaps are sensitive to . Pollen borne poor fruit set (crumbly fruit) . ‘Meeker’ is very susceptible . Poor pollination in rain . No control for infected plants . Blackcaps are sensitive as bloom is early and flowers are held in a flat position
“Crumbly” fruit on susceptible cultivars; sometimes leaf symptoms on susceptible primocane-fruiting cultivars
Viruses and crumbly fruit – Black raspberry Phytophthora Root Rot Floricane symptoms at harvest red raspberry
Primocane collapse in blackcaps
Fruit from virus-infested plant
Fruit from healthy plant (same cultivar)
. Plant resistant cultivars . Plant in well-drained soil on raised beds
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 12 Verticillium Botrytis . Blackcaps are sensitive Botrytis on fruit and cane botrytis . Plants wilt and die in late summer
Photo: Pete Bristow
. Plant only certified plant material . Avoid sites that had other sensitive hosts (Solanaceous) . Remove and destroy infected plants. Do not . Disease is promoted by a warm, moist replant in these areas environment. Maintain an open canopy Note symptomatic . Avoid overhead irrigation and late watering rings
Yellow Rust Herbicide Damage
Phytotoxicity from Round-Up R
. Cultivate in late fall to bury/remove fallen leaves . Remove and burn infected floricanes Leaves are chlorotic right after harvest and strap-like . Do not tie up new canes until all leaves have fallen
Red raspberry
Heat/u.v. Damage Crown Borer
Red raspberries, in particular, are sensitive to damage from intense u.v. light Symptoms are white drupelets on the sun side of fruit . Two-year life cycle . Adult lays eggs on leaves . Larvae burrow into crown and into new primocanes . Canes collapse . Shading reduces problem . Only home control is . Symptoms don’t occur in all years rouging out infected plants
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 13 Spotted Wing Drosophila Spotted Wing Drosophila Actual size Drosophila suzukii 2-3 mm
Female with serrated ovipositor Male with spotted wings
From OSU Extension Publication, EM8991 Courtesy, WSU
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 14 Native strawberries Strawberries for the Home Garden Dr. Bernadine Strik, Professor of Horticulture Extension Berry Crops Specialist Oregon State University
Fragaria chiloensis Fragaria vesca (beach strawberry) (woods strawberry)
Fragaria virginiana (mountain strawberry)
Crown: short compressed There are 3 types of strawberries: Terminology: stem -- has a whorl of leaves and produces trusses and runners June-bearers: • Crop once/year (in June) • Produce many runners Truss
Runner Everbearers: Day-neutrals: • Produce fruit twice/yr Cap June & August Mother plant daughter • Better than ever-bearers • Produce few runners • Produce fruit continuously New strawberry planting “seeds” are called May through October achenes • Produce few runners
Cultivars: Puget Reliance Publication: June-bearers
“Strawberry Cultivars for Western Hood Oregon & Washington”
Benton http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/ Shuksan Totem
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 1 New cultivars to watch for: Sweet Bliss Cultivars (E. Oregon): June-bearers June-bearers Sweet Sunrise Fresh market cultivars adapted to zones 3-8 or 5-8, depending on cultivar:
‘Earliglow’ (early, small size, excellent flavor) ‘Annapolis’ (early, maintains size, good flavor) ‘Cavendish’ (very large, good flavor) ‘Honeoye’ (week later, large, good flavor) ‘Allstar’ (very large, excellent flavor) Charm Puget Crimson
Honeoye
Moore Annapolis Photos: courtesy Nourse Farms
Cultivars (E. Oregon): Day-neutral cultivars June-bearers Continuous ripening Albion (breaks in hot temperatures) ‘Darselect’ (large, excellent flavor) Seascape ‘Clancy’ (+5 days, large, dark red, good flavor) ‘Lateglow’ (+ 9 days, large, excellent flavor) ‘Jewel’ (+ 10 days, large, excellent flavor) ‘Ac Valley Sunset’ (+ ~ 10 days, good flavor)
Monterey
Clancy Jewel Ac Valley Sunset San Andreas Photos: courtesy Nourse Farms
Know the cultivar you are buying! Planting . Most plants are available in spring (order early from mail order catalogues) . Do not add fertilizer to the planting hole . Grow berries with similar needs in your yard plot or a larger raised bed
Fred Meyer, Bend, Oregon (March)
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 2 Plant type Plant in the spring
• Proper planting depth is very important Bare root (here in flats) • Make sure roots are not exposed and growing point is not buried In small pots • Check plants after watering them in
Proper planting depth
Planting – no need to trim roots unless very long: Planting – insert roots straight down into hole:
Planting – ensure proper depth: Planting – for potted plants; rough up roots:
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 3 Planting – remove flowers to improve growth: Growth: Just do once
April 7
Planting Systems in your yard: Planting Systems in yard – June-bearers Plants can be established on flat ground “Matted Row” (they runner a lot) but raised beds are recommended • 15” in the row; 3-4’ between rows • runners root • Rows will form a “mat”
A well-drained soil with a neutral pH, pest-free, sunny site is recommended Planting Year Mature matted row
Maintaining matted rows • Runners will grow to fill in aisles Planting Systems in yard – June-bearers • Rake early-formed runners into the “Matted Row” row • Till or hoe to maintain aisles To encourage growth & runnering • Irrigate well • Remove weeds • Fertilize frequently with small amounts of nitrogen fertilizer
Planting Year
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 4 Strawberry plantings Renovation – only done in June-bearers Done 2 weeks after last harvest Planting -- “year 1” “Tired” plants after • Mow plants just ABOVE crown No fruit except in harvest in July • Narrow rows (improved aisles) day-neutrals • Pull weeds; irrigate • This is time to fertilize mature “First fruiting season” -- “year 2” June-bearers
“Second fruiting season” -- “year 3”
“Third fruiting season” -- “year 4” Yield and fruit size decrease as plantings age Planting removed after harvest
Planting Systems in your yard Mature Hill Systems Grow day-neutrals in a “Hill System” • Do not renovate (mow) day-neutrals (continuous fruiting) • 12” in the row (single or staggered • May clean up some older leaves in winter, but not necessary double rows) • Remove runners before they get too large • Remove runners • Remove weeds or use plastic • Fertilize frequently
New hill system planting Mature hill system in winter Remove runners
Mature hill system
Growing in containers Potting media: . Requirements are for excellent drainage and a good soil porosity (air); potting soil or compost not ideal . If bringing in soil for a raised bed – be careful; may still need to amend with good organic matter . Can buy or make specialized medium . Ensure good downward drainage below raised bed so it doesn’t behave like a “bath tub” . Raised bed should be at least 1 ft deep . Containers can vary but use about 14 inch x 14 inch and 12 inch deep (for 4-5 plants) What I’ve used for strawberry: • 33% bark • 33% peat moss • 33% perlite (pumice)
Neil Bell, OSU
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 5 Producing in a container? Growth: Choose a day-neutral cultivar
April 7
Pruning runners: Pruning runners – continue to remove all season
June 3 July 5
Pruning runners – “daughter plants” will fruit even with no soil:
Aug. 10
July 27
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 6 Harvesting • Harvest for fresh with “caps” • Pick without caps for freezing/jam
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/
‘Albion’ from a container
Common Problems Cold damage Normal flowers Frost damage Crowns damaged in 10 to 20 ºF range depending on time of “winter”
Open flowers are damaged at 30 ºF Damaged/dead No fruit crown
Partial frost Rowcover for frost damage to protection Healthy flower www.commercialappeal.com crown Monkey face
In cold regions with little winter rain, straw may be Cold damage used for winter cold protection Poor pollination/fruit set
• Use 3-4 inches of “fluffy” straw to protect from winter injury • Place on after few hard frosts Caused by: • Remove just as spring growth starting • Cold weather • Rake into aisles • Wet weather
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 7 Fruit rot Insects feeding on developing achenes Botrytis (gray mold) • Very common problem • Aggravated by dense canopy and wet weather during bloom & spring N fertilization
Lygus bug
Anthracnose (leather rot) Boron deficiency may cause malformed fruit also • Humid, warm weather disease add boron to the soil in fall – rate based on B test • Aggravated by dense canopy
Root Rot Photos: OSU Plant clinic Powdery Mildew
Not considered an important problem in strawberry Black Root rot Red stele
• Plant disease-free stock • Avoid susceptible cultivars • Plant on well-drained sites • Use raised beds • Avoid over irrigating • Curling and “bronzing” of leaves usually not seen until late in season
• Symptoms sometimes on fruit
Root Weevils Slugs • Hand pick adults • Spray approved chemicals at night
Adults notch leaves
• chickens, ducks; hand pick slugs • remove any hiding places • stale beer traps • caution with slug baits (for pets)
larvae Larvae eat roots and crowns
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 8 Spotted Wing Drosophila (SWD) Ornamental strawberries
Mainly a problem in late-season fresh strawberry
ncsmallfruitsipm.blogspot.com
Pink Lipstick http://spottedwing.org/
Bernadine Strik, Professor, Oregon State University 9