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Marionberries Designer Hester Capriotti at Home Portrait HOME GARDEN TRAVEL AND LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE PortraitTM MAGAZINE ™ OF PORTLAND Volume 38 Volume PORTRAIT TM $ $ $ OF PORTLAND Steen dining cabinet, 2399; Corbett dining table, 2699; Lira chairs, 699 each. 380 Northwest 13th Avenue, Portland HOME GARDEN TRAVEL + LIFESTYLE HOME GARDEN TRAVEL roomandboard.com 94 NEW LOOKS FOR OREGON HARVEST YOUR HOME MARIONBERRIES DESIGNER HESTER CAPRIOTTI AT HOME MODERN BARN CONVERSION BY ARCHITECT JAMES DIXON WEEKEND TRAVEL PortraitMagazine.com WOODINVILLE WINE COUNTRY FRESH IDEAS FROM DISPLAY UNTIL 12/05/17 $5.95 US TOP ARCHITECTS+DESIGNERS 000 38PDX Cover James Dixon Kitchen.indd 1 9/8/17 11:39 AM Portrait HOME GARDEN TRAVEL AND LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE PortraitTM MAGAZINE ™ OF SEATTLE Volume 38 Volume PORTRAIT TM Steen dining cabinet, $2399; Corbett dining table, $2699; Lira chairs, $699 each. OF SEATTLE University Village 2675 NE University Village Street, Seattle HOME GARDEN TRAVEL + LIFESTYLE HOME GARDEN TRAVEL roomandboard.com SEATTLE’S HOT WATERFRONT MARKET BRUNNER ARCHITECTS’ HUNTS POINT BEAUTY Architect Steve Hoedemaker PortraitMagazine.com DESIGNS A LEGACY ISLAND HOME WEEKEND TRAVEL DISPLAY UNTIL 12/05/17 $5.95 US WOODINVILLE WINE COUNTRY 000 38SEA Cover Taylor Magnolia Kitchen.indd 1 9/8/17 11:51 AM Oregon Marionberry SUMMER LOVE written by MARGARETT WATERBURY OREGONIANS ARE NO STRANGERS TO BERRIES. Our state grows them all—blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, strawberries, tayberries, loganberries, cranberries, boysenberries, ollalieberries—a glittering rainbow of sweet, delicious sum- mertime treats. But there’s something special about the Marionberry, that long, dusky, extra-juicy blackberry that makes a brief, show-stopping appearance at grocery stores, farmer’s markets, roadside stands, and backyard bramble patches in midsummer. Marionberry’s history goes back to the middle of the 20th century, when a USDA plant breeder named George Waldo started to work with Oregon State University to develop a better, more productive blackberry variety for the Northwest. His work—like the work of berry breeders before and after him—hinged on the loganberry, a berry that had been produced when a horticulturalist and ama- teur backyard fruit breeder named James Harvey Logan somewhat inadvertently created a cross between two different cane berries: a blackberry (Rubus ursinus) and a raspberry (Rubus idaeus). PortraitMagazine.com 109 108113 38 lacerrie.indd 108 9/17/17 :37 AM 108113 38 lacerrie.indd 109 9/17/17 :37 AM recipeMarionberry by Exceutive Chef Annie Cuggino Crisp Q RESTAURAUNT & BAR www.q-portland.com photography by David Reamer The resulting berry was highly productive, with strong canes, a robust growth habit, and big, juicy berries—although sometimes, they could have a slightly bitter aftertaste. However, the discovery that blackber- ry/raspberry crosses were not only viable, but often an improvement over the original plants, ushered in a new era of breeding and experi- mentation, with projects popping up all over the country in an effort to breed new, regionally adapted berry varieties—including right here in Oregon. “At the time, the Northwest industry was new,” says Chad Finn, a USDA-ARS plant breeder specializing in small fruits. “Olalli- eberry was the standard California berry, but it never did as well up here. So what [George] was doing was developing more commercially MAKE 9 SERVINGS viable cultivars for the Northwest.” As part of that project, George crossed two existing berries: the Che- FRUIT FILLING halem blackberry (itself a cross George had previously made between 13 cups Marionberries the Santiam berry and the ubiquitous Himalayan blackberry, that 2 cups Sugar rugged, robust variety that fills ditches around the Northwest) and Pinch of salt ½ cup Lemon juice the Olallieberry, the loganberry/youngberry cross that had taken the Zest of 1 lemon California industry by storm. One line of plants that resulted from 3 Tbsp Flour that cross was vigorous, well adapted to Oregon’s climate, and produc- In a large bowl, toss all ingredients to- tive—and, most importantly, startlingly delicious. gether until berries are coated even- ly. Put berries in desired baking pan “The main thing about marionberries is the fruit quality,” says Chad. (suggested: 9x13) and smooth out “More specifically, it’s the flavor.” And it’s true. Marionberries aren’t SERVES 4 until level. particularly large compared to the zaftig boysenberry or the gargan- Buch e Salad recipe by Exceutive Chef Annie Cuggino CRISP TOPPING tuan loganberry, they’re practically petite. The bushes are thorny, the Q RESTAURAUNT & BAR www.q-portland.com 3 cups Flour berries are seedy, and the plants can be somewhat cold tender. But the 1½ cups Sugar eating experience of the marionberry is unmatched: the berries have photography by David Reamer 1 tbsp Baking powder a firm yet yielding texture, with an amazing wine-like flavor, good 3 Eggs sweetness, and bright (but not overpowering) acidity. No wonder the 4 ¼ inch slices of baguette 6 oz Currant vinegar 1 cup Butter, melted Oregon Raspberry & Blackberry Commission calls them the “Caber- 2 cups Marionberries 1 cup Red wine vinegar 1½ tsp Salt net of blackberries.” 6 cups mixed Salad greens ½ cup Hazelnut oil Pinch of cinnamon 6 oz Buche de Lucay cheese 2 cups blend oil (we make this using a Whisk together flour, sugar, baking Their great flavor and homegrown success story have helped marion- ½ cup Roasted Oregon hazelnuts 3:1 ratio of canola oil to extra virgin powder and salt very well in a medi- berries develop a cult following, especially here in Oregon. Perhaps (crushed) olive oil) 2 Tbsp freshly ground black pepper um sized bowl. Crack the three eggs that’s because we’re among the only people in the nation to experience Honey pepper vinaigrette directly into bowl and loosely mix Extra virgin olive oil Salt to taste the pleasure of eating marionberries fresh, since the fruits are too soft together until dough is crumbly. Do Salt and Pepper not overmix, it should be lumpy and to ship any significant distance. Perhaps it’s a kind of hometown pride, ASSEMBLE THE SALAD irregular. since marionberries, born and bred in state, belong to that exclusive MAKE THE CROSTINI Slice the Buche de Lucay into rounds TO BAKE native Oregonian club. They’re even named after Marion County in Place baguette slices on a sheet pan about ½ inch thick (or 3 oz). Cut each round crosswise to make half-circles. Add topping directly on top of ber- the Willamette Valley, where they were extensively tested. Or perhaps and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper. Bake until crispy and ries and spread evenly. Melt butter it’s simply because our marionberries are, without a doubt, the best, Put a small non-stick pan over medi- golden brown. and pour over the topping mixture, perfectly adapted to our mild winters and warm summers. “It’s one um-low heat. Brown cheese on both moistening as much of your flour as of those things, the best blackberry grower in Washington can’t do as sides. It will form a nice crust. possible. Sprinkle with a little bit of HONEY PEPPER VINAIGRETTE cinnamon. good a job as the best in Oregon,” says Chad. (makes more than you need, saves for In a large bowl, toss the salad greens, a couple weeks.) the berries, and the honey pepper vin- Bake at 325 for 50 - 60 minutes or un- No matter the reason, marionberries are now ubiquitous in Ore- til crisp is golden brown and cooked In a medium bowl combine: aigrette. Mix well. Distribute the salad through. Enjoy while hot with vanilla gon. Each year, we grow 26 million pounds of the dark, dusky fruit, ½ cup Honey onto plates, sprinkle with crushed roast- or buttermilk ice cream. 95% of which is frozen. Marionberries find their way into a huge ½ bunch Thyme leaves ed Oregon hazelnuts. Place one crostini on each salad and top with the cheese. PortraitMagazine.com 111 108113 38 lacerrie.indd 110 9/17/17 :37 AM 108113 38 lacerrie.indd 111 9/17/17 :37 AM CRISPY DUCK BREAST WITH OREGON MARIONBERRIES 4 boneless duck breasts (8 oz each) Crispy Duck Breast Buckwheat polenta Baby arugula with Oregon Marionberries Oregon marionberries Local honey Aged balsamic vinegar Brush the fish with a small amount of Olive oil, season with salt and pep- per and cook on the grill until fully cooked. Squeeze fresh lemon juice Photo by David Reamer on the fish. Place the fish in a serving dish and then top with the Olive ca- B.F.D. (recipe by Q Restaurant & Bar) per relish. Sprinkle Jacobsen Sea Salt on top and garnish with micro greens 1½ oz Rose City Vodka and sliced radishes. ¾ oz marionberry puree ½ oz mint simple syrup BUCKWHEAT POLENTA ½ oz lime juice 1 cup Cornmeal (fine) Cava (a dry, Spanish sparkling wine) ¼ cup Buckwheat flour Mint sprigs for garnish Collins glass ¼ cup Mascarpone Strainer 2 Tbsp Parmigiano reggiano 1 sprig Fresh sage In a cocktail shaker, pour in the Vod- range of dishes, from classic berry haunts like pies and jams to more ka, blackberry puree, simple syrup innovative applications like barbcue sauce, beers, ciders, and spirits. ½ tbsp Minced garlic and then lime juice. Fill your shaker ¼ cup Minced shallot tin with ice, give it a few good shakes They even represent us abroad, the horticultural equivalent of a cultural and then strain mixture into a Collins ambassador. Recently, chef Gregory Gourdet of Departure Lounge took Saute garlic and shallot in 2 tbsp but- glass. Fill your glass with ice and the ter. Add 4 cups of water and boil with top the cocktail off with Cava. Garnish a suitcase full of marionberry jam to Paris at the request of a French chef the sage. Whisk cornmeal into water with a beautiful sprig of mint, drink who wanted to taste something “uniquely Oregon.” and enjoy! in a steady stream.
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