Java and Bali, July 2013 + short notes on Rinjani Scops-owl on Lombok. Lieven De Temmerman, Belgium

Aknowledgements Hans Matheve for bird sounds, Geert Beckers and Kevin Lambeets for some extra information, Jan van der Laan for directions in his report on Rinjani Scops-owl and the people at Freddie’s Guesthouse for hospitality.

Introduction For most birdwatchers, Java and Bali are the very first destinations they visit in Indonesia. Sadly, these islands are heavily deforested, have almost no ground birds and not a lot of bigger bird species, and there are less species than on the other greater Sunda islands of Sumatra and Borneo. Nevertheless, travelling in Java and Bali is relatively easy, and the birding locations are well known and still very rewarding. I travelled from Yogjakarta, along Mt Bromo, Baluran and Mount Ijen to the well-known Bali Barat national park, and looked around Ubud and the Gili islands a little bit for birds while enjoying a nature-culture holiday with my girlfriend. After this, I spent some days of hardcore birdwatching on the slopes of Gunung Gede, West-Java.

Practicalities In order to cover all the endemic species of Java and Bali, one needs to visit several key birding sites in both countries. At minimum, one should visit the following sites (more information on the excellent Burung-Nusantara website:  Muara Angke, a marsh area in downtown Jakarta that offers the best chances for Sunda Coucal and a lot of other marsh/wader birds.  Gunung Halimun for Javan Hawk-eagle, White-bellied Fantail, Javan Leafbird, Brown-headed Barbet, but especially for White-breasted Babbler (which cannot be found in Carita anymore, and since it is a bird confined to lowlands, cannot be found on Gede). Carita would still be the best place to have a back-up location for Black- banded Barbet on the way to Sumatra, but an alternative is Mount Ijen (see below)  Gunung Gede is the main birding site for Javan Endemics. Almost all Javan forest endemic birds can be found, except for White-breasted Babbler, and White-Bellied Fantail is really hard. Also, the abovementioned species for Halimun can be found on Gede, but not that easy. Some birds are a must to see on Gede: Javan Scops-owl, Rufous-fronted Laughingthrush and Volcano Swiftlet. The last one can be found on other volcanoes, but that would be the only target there.  Mount Bromo occurs on many people's schedule, but it is not necessary to go there as Javan Bush-warbler can be most easily found on Mount Ijen, which is practically on the way between Baluran and Bali Barat. Moreover, Mount Ijen should always be the preferred choice as it offers maybe the best chance for White-bellied Fantail, Javan Hawk-eagle and it is the place to see the endemic White-faced Hill-partridge. The forest on Ijen is quite splendid as well.  Baluran, in the far east of Java, is the most convenient place to see Green Peafowl, Green Junglefowl, Grey-cheeked Tit-babbler and possibly Black-winged Starling, but many more good species occur, especially Javan Banded Pitta is fairly easy here. Alternatives for this site are e.g. Alas Purwo, which has probably also some more diversity and a ‘wilder‘ feeling. Check the reports from Yann Muzika.  Bali Barat is the flagship site for Bali Starling, which is now sadly extinct in the wild. You can still see birds flying around who look semi-wild, and an array of other interesting birds can be seen in the park, such as Beach Thick-knee, Black-winged Starling, and a little outside the park: Rufous-backed Dwarf-kingfisher, Fulvous- chested Jungle-flycatcher and others.  Bedugul botanical garden in the central mountains of Bali is said to be a very good place for Sunda Thrush, Javan Kingfisher and Dark-backed Imperial-pigeon, but I did not spend much time there and only saw the pigeons. More trip reports and info can be found on www.cloudbirders.com and the abovementioned burung-nusantara site, or by emailing me: yoemy at hotmail dot com

Birding sites

Borubudur (1 morning) This well-known archeological site can be reached by bus or private vehicle from Jogjakarta in about half an hour. Make sure to be here around 6AM to soak in the magical morning atmosphere on the temple, as it gets very crowded around 7AM with tour buses dropping loud masses of locals. Only little birding was done from the temple, but a walk in the area could provide many more species. Highlights: Black-naped Fruit-dove, Javan Mynah

Prambanan (1 afternoon) Prambanan temple, and especially the big temple and the one to the right, are known to be the easiest place in Java to see Java Sparrow. We easily saw more than 10 while admiring the temples. On the way out, one passes through some open savannah forest where you can see some more birds. Highlights: Java Sparrow, Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker, Sunda Woodpecker

Mount Bromo (1 day) Mount Bromo is a rather dry volcanoe with mostly low bushes in and around the crater. On the way to the viewpoint, one passes some scrub that is good for the bush-warblers. The top is good for the Island Thrush and the views. Highlights: Island Thrush, Oriental Pipit (in the crater). Sunda Bush-warbler and Javan (Russet) Bush-warbler were heard-only.

Baluran National Park (2 days) From the entrance of the park, one can take a motorcycle taxi to take you to the head quarter, and further to the beach. On the way to the head quarter, there is a flat ‘rainforest‘ part where Javan Banded Pittas thrive (there is a big sign indicating the location). Around the headquarters, some good open area birding can be done from a watchtower and around a little pool where Banteng sometimes drinks at night (not-so-wild Banteng can be seen here in the fenced area). Close to the beach, there is some more humid forest with taller trees (and best chance for Hornbills), but it soon gets very hot here. Highlights: Green Peafowl (near the headquarters and some flushed on the road in), Green Junglefowl (many flushed on the road in), Java Sparrow (one on the road in), Javan Banded Pitta (minimum 2 calling and one seen in the rainforest part on the way in), Small Blue Kingfisher (some near the beach). No Black-winged Starlings were seen.

Mount Ijen (1 morning) Mount Ijen is worth some birding time, as the trail leading up to the volcanoe can hold Horsfield’s Thrush, and the views from the crater edge are simply awesome. From the trail down along the road, the forest is in excellent condition and many of the Javan mountaineous endemics can be found. Highlights: Javan Bush-warbler (one behind the praying room at the trail head), Javan Hawk- eagle (one fly-by), White-bellied Fantail (in a flock), White-faced Partridge (a family group), Crescent-chested Babbler, White-flanked Sunbird (in flocks), Sunda Bulbul, Orange-spotted Bulbul.

Bali Barat NP (1 morning) Bali Barat was the last resort where one could see Bali Starling. But all the Starlings are now released birds. Still, the park around the breeding center remains the best place to see Black- winged Starling, released Bali Starlings and the nearby beach is a very reliable site for Beach Thick-knee. The mangrove holds Mangrove Whistler. The boat ride and the snorkeling on nearby Menjangan (we did the southern coral wall, pretty awesome) makes this a very nice day trip, even with a non-birding partner. An alternative site for Beach Thick-knee could be the Gilimanuk bay. The park HQ, where you can easily arrange a guide, are good for barbets. Highlights: Bali Starling, Black-winged Starling some way in the scrub, Beach Thick-knee.

Creek near Labuhan Lalang (some afternoon hours) This well-known site among birding guides is a reliable stake-out for Rufous-backed Dwarf- kingfisher and while the forest in Bali Barat is pretty dry, this forest is a lot wetter and holds different birds. The road between the jetty for Bali Barat and the creek has some dead treestumps that often hold Black-thighed Falconets. The trailhead can be found somewhere here, just at the bridge, opposite of some houses (where you can fill up the scooter). Highlights: Blue-eared Kingfisher and Rufous-backed Dwarf-kingfisher at the creek, 3 Black-thighed Falconets between the jetty and the creek. Fulvous-breasted Jungle-flycatcher was not found, and while the whole area should be good for Javan Banded Pitta, none were singing. Probably the best place to look for one should be around the Menjangan resort (where I heard a Dwarf KF as well).

Bedugul Botanical Garden (1 morning) This is probably the most convenient site to see some specific target species on Bali, that are otherwise hard to find on either Bali or Java, and it is the best site to add a new birding family on the list, as Indonesian Honey-eaters are very common. As Sunda Thrush is hard to get on Gunung Gede, any visitor of Java and Bali should try for this bird in the Bedugul Garden near dusk or dawn (from the compost heap near the entrance (coordinates approx.), or on the trail north of the left road coming from the entrance, also reported from more natural vegetation along the road starting here). While many report Javan Kingfisher, these are much easier in the rice field of southern Bali, and can even be seen from the bus anywhere in Bali. Highlights: Indonesian Honey-eater, Dark-backed Imperial-pigeon

Rice Fields around Ubud (1 hour) We did a day-trip to the famous Uluwatu temple from Ubud, and on the way there are some nice archetypical ricefields. Targets were Golden-headed Cisticola, White-headed Munia, Javan Kingfisher and Weavers. Highlights: Golden-headed Cisticola, Javan Kingfisher (no coordinates).

Gili Air (no real birding, 6 days) The Gili islands are more known for the parties than for the birds. Probably, Gili Trawangan can support a little more species as it is bigger and has a small, scrubby hilltop. Highlights: Sacred Kingfisher, Gray-tailed Tattler, Savannah Nightjar, all seen around here.

Lombok (around Senggigi)(one late afternoon) On a day trip from Gili air, some time and effort was invested in order to see the recently described Rinjani Scops-owl. For the logistics, we took a boat from Gili Air that landed here, rented a scooter somewhere here after a mototaxi ride, and drove along the inland road towards Mataram. We timed to be near the owl site around 6.30PM, and did some shopping in the touristy resort of Senggigi nearby (good shop here). I got at least 5+ singing owls along a stretch of dirt road where Jan van der Laan reported them. The owls were calling everywhere in good habitat, but in order to see one, I had to give up on trying to see the first two owls singing close to houses to south of the road, because of some very annoying dogs disturbing the birds. In the end (about 30 minutes after dusk), I connected with a more cooperative owl on the north side of the road. Highlights: Rinjani Scops-owl north of the dirt road.

Gunung Gede (4 days) This site does not need an introduction. I drew a map in the logbook at Freddie’s guesthouse with lots of details. I went up twice to the volcano as I had severe fog on the first day, and missed the swiftlets. The trekking should not be taken too lightly, you need a good physique to go up and down in one day (approx. 20kms). The whole trail is paved, but the uneven stones are hard for the ankles and knees. Getting there proved to be relatively easy. There are air con buses from the airport in Jakarta to Bogor, where has to go to the minibus station that is located here. Just tell the busdriver you have to get off for Gunung Gede here. Be warned that traffic can be awful, especially around Puncak pass. From the stop, you either walk up or (easier) take a small and very regular yellow minibus up to Freddie’s (coordinate approx). The entrance to the trail is here. If you are early (4-5AM) like me, nobody is there to pay the ticket to (you pay at the HQ here), but be warned that when you get lost, nobody will know you are in the park. Highlights: Chestnut-bellied Partridge (many groups), Spotted Kestrel (one near the waterfalls (which are impressive), Dusky Woodcock (several roding below the elephant shelter), Pink-headed Fruit-dove (one near the hot springs, one fly-by from the boardwalk), Yellow-throated Hanging-Parrot (around the botanical garden entrance), Javan Scops-owl (one very near the T-junction, a little up), Javan Owlet (several), Javan Frogmouth (several, lower parts), Salvadori’s Nightjar (some near the waterfalls, one seen in a clearing below the hot springs), Volcano Swiftlet (at least 6 from the top of the crater), Javan Trogon (one near a picnic point, halfway between the T-junction and the hot springs), Javan Kingfisher (a couple on the Blue lake), Flame-fronted Barbet (=Sumatran Barbet), Pygmy Tit (near the botanical gardens), Javan Tesia (several), Rufous-fronted Laughtingthrush (only one group halfway between the T-junction and the hot spring), Spotted Crocias (on the boardwalk near the waterfalls), White-bibbed Babbler, Crescent-chested Babbler (several flocks in the lower parts), Javan Whistling-thrush (several), Sunda Forktail (near the waterfalls), Sunda Robin (lower parts), Island Thrush (one seen very well near the top, more flushed), Javan Cochoa (one taped in above the T-junction, another one in a flock fairly low, even before the boardwalk), White-flanked Sunbird (several in flocks).

Bird list Only lifers are included, having birder in Borneo, India and China before, this may give an impression on specific targets. Some additional info about certain species is annotated in the list.

Chestnut-bellied Partridge Arborophila javanica Country endemic Gray-breasted Partridge Arborophila orientalis Vulnerable (VU) Country endemic Restricted range Split from Chestnut-bellied, also known as White-faced or Horsfield’s Partridge. Green Junglefowl Gallus varius Country endemic Green Peafowl Pavo muticus Endangered (EN) Very common in Baluran. Extirpated in a large part of its former range. Wilson's Storm-Petrel Oceanites oceanicus One on a Dolphin trip from Lovina Beach. Javan Pond-Heron Ardeola speciosa Javan Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus bartelsi Endangered (EN) Country endemic Restricted range Black-thighed Falconet Microhierax fringillarius Spotted Kestrel Falco moluccensis Near the far right waterfall (the third). Beach Thick-knee Esacus magnirostris Near-threatened (NT) Gray-tailed Tattler Tringa brevipes Dusky Woodcock Scolopax saturata Near-threatened (NT) Country endemic Hard to see through the canopy. Best tactics would be to camp at the Elephant shelter, but I did not encounter them there before dawn / after dusk. All were heard (and one silhouette seen) below the shelter before dawn. Small Buttonquail Turnix sylvaticus One flushed from the mototaxi on the entrance road into Baluran. Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana Island Collared-Dove Streptopelia bitorquata Ruddy Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia emiliana Orange-breasted Pigeon Treron bicinctus Gray-cheeked Pigeon Treron griseicauda Country endemic Pink-headed Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus porphyreus Country endemic Black-naped Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus melanospilus Dark-backed Imperial-Pigeon Ducula lacernulata Country endemic Yellow-throated Hanging-Parrot Loriculus pusillus Near-threatened (NT) Country endemic A small group of 6 near the Bedugul Botanical garden entrance Sunda Cuckoo Cuculus lepidus Javan Scops-Owl Otus angelinae Vulnerable (VU) Country endemic Restricted range Rinjani Scops-Owl Otus Jolandae Country endemic 1 seen on Lombok, south of Senggigi. Sunda Scops-Owl Otus lempiji Javan Owlet Glaucidium castanopterum Country endemic Javan Frogmouth Batrachostomus javensis Salvadori's Nightjar Caprimulgus pulchellus Near-threatened (NT) Country endemic One seen well in a clearing with some large logs near the trail, above the T-junction. Volcano Swiftlet Aerodramus vulcanorum Near-threatened (NT) Country endemic Restricted range Impressive bird, and too big for being given the name ‘swiftlet‘! Mossy-nest Swiftlet Aerodramus salangana Edible-nest Swiftlet Aerodramus fuciphagus Javan Trogon Harpactes reinwardtii Endangered (EN) Country endemic Restricted range Blue-eared Kingfisher Alcedo meninting Small Blue Kingfisher Alcedo coerulescens Country endemic Rufous-backed Kingfisher Ceyx rufidorsa Javan Kingfisher Halcyon cyanoventris Country endemic Sacred Kingfisher Todiramphus sanctus Brown-throated Barbet Megalaima corvina Country endemic One from the boardwalk in Gede in a Flock. Uncommon in Gede. Black-banded Barbet Megalaima javensis Near-threatened (NT) Country endemic Lower parts of Ijen. Flame-fronted Barbet Megalaima armillaris Country endemic One on Gede below the Elephant shelter. Indonesian Honeyeater Lichmera limbata Country endemic Javan Cuckoo-shrike Coracina javensis Lesser Cuckoo-shrike Coracina fimbriata Sunda Minivet Pericrocotus miniatus Country endemic Lower parts of Gede. Black-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus hirundinaceus Blyth's Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius aeralatus Trilling Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius aenobarbus Rufous-tailed Fantail Rhipidura phoenicura Country endemic White-bellied Fantail Rhipidura euryura Country endemic Racket-tailed Treepie Crypsirina temia In Bali Barat, same place as Black-winged Starling. Pygmy Tit Psaltria exilis Country endemic Hanging around where the trail (starting behind the HQ ticket office) meets the fence of the botanical garden (the former ‘best trail‘ for Sunda Thrush before they were all ending up on the bird market). Blue Nuthatch Sitta azurea Orange-spotted Bulbul Pycnonotus bimaculatus Country endemic Sunda Bulbul Ixos virescens Country endemic Javan Tesia Tesia superciliaris Country endemic Sunda Warbler Seicercus grammiceps Country endemic Javan Bush-Warbler Bradypterus montis Country endemic Olive-backed Tailorbird Orthotomus sepium On Lombok, near the beach of Senggigi. Bar-winged Prinia Prinia familiaris Country endemic Best views in Bali Barat, but pretty widespread and relatively easy on E-Java and Bali. Javan Gray-throated White-eye Lophozosterops javanicus Country endemic Yellow-bellied White-eye Zosterops chloris Country endemic Javan Fulvetta Alcippe pyrrhoptera Country endemic Rufous-fronted Laughingthrush Garrulax rufifrons Near-threatened (NT) Country endemic Spotted Crocias Crocias albonotatus Near-threatened (NT) Country endemic Seen from the boardwalk towards the waterfall, but more heard (not tape-responsive) Gray-cheeked Tit-Babbler Macronous flavicollis Country endemic On the trail to the right, just before the beach in Baluran. The first part of this trail has the best (moist) undergrowth. Latter parts + the trail to the left are much more dry. White-bibbed Babbler Stachyris thoracica Country endemic Some near the trail entrance to Ijen are above the stated altitudinal range. Crescent-chested Babbler Stachyris melanothorax Country endemic Chestnut-backed Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus montanus Heard on Ijen, seen at the Elephant shelter in a big flock at Gede. Pale Blue-Flycatcher Cyornis unicolor One on Ijen. Lesser Shortwing Brachypteryx leucophrys Javan Whistling-Thrush Myophonus glaucinus Country endemic Sunda Forktail Enicurus velatus Country endemic Very nervous, only bad flight views on several days near the waterfall at Gede. Sunda Robin Cinclidium diana Country endemic Island Thrush Turdus poliocephalus Javan Cochoa Cochoa azurea Vulnerable (VU) Country endemic Restricted range First taped in on Gede above the T-junction, later seen in flocks. Quite responsive and actively singing. Javan Myna Acridotheres javanicus Country endemic Black-winged Starling Acridotheres melanopterus Critically endangered (CR) Country endemic Windy circumstances made this a hard-to-get bird, as they were not on the top of the trees but somewhere in the foliage. Bali Myna Leucopsar rothschildi Critically endangered (CR) Country endemic Restricted range Blood-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum sanguinolentum Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker Dicaeum trochileum Country endemic White-flanked Sunbird Aethopyga eximia Country endemic Javan Munia Lonchura leucogastroides Java Sparrow Lonchura oryzivora Vulnerable (VU) Country endemic Easiest on Prambanan, but happy with a sighting in Baluran from the mototaxi on the entrance road.