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Borneo: Sabah Storm’s Stork (Craig Robson) BORNEO: SABAH 12 – 26 OCTOBER 2019 LEADER CRAIG ROBSON It was back to basics in 2019, with this two-week tour focussing on the Malaysian province of Sabah. Luck was on our side I think, as we succeeded in seeing an excellent range of specialities and endemics. At Kina- balu Park, we found the crucial trio of Whitehead’s Trogon, Whitehead’s Broadbill and Whitehead’s Spider- hunter, as well as the much-wanted Fruithunter - which made an exceptional showing this year -, and Moun- tain Blackeye. At Sepilok and Gomantong we added Bat Hawk and Black-crowned Pitta, while the Kina- batangan River brought us the likes of Storm’s Stork, Bornean Ground Cuckoo, Wrinkled Hornbill, and Hooded Pitta. Our final destination at the luxurious Borneo Rainforest Lodge, in Danum Valley Conservation Area, produced the bird of the tour - Bornean Bristlehead - as well as ‘Bornean’ Crested Fireback, Barred 1 BirdQuest Tour Report: Borneo: Sabah www.birdquest-tours.com Eagle-Owl, Large, Gould’s and Sunda Frogmouths, Blue-headed and Bornean Banded Pittas, and Bornean and Black-throated Wren-Babblers. Mammals featured prominently too with several Bornean Orangutans, hundreds of Proboscis Monkeys, and several fantastic Horsfield’s Tarsiers to name but a few. There was also a wide range of other interesting wildlife, from reptiles like Bornean Keeled Pit Viper, to spectacular butterflies like Rajah Brooke’s Birdwing. Having all met up at the airport in Kota Kinabalu, around midday, we headed off birding for the rest of the day. First up was Lok Kawi Beach, where we observed a range of shorebirds, including a dapper pair of Malaysian Plovers, and common migrant species such as Terek Sandpiper and Grey-tailed Tattler. Moving on, we explored some marshes and ricefields near Papar. Here we found a nice range of wetland species, including Wandering Whistling Duck, White-browed Crake, Long-toed Stint and Striated Grassbird. Back in KK, after dinner at our hotel, we paid a visit to Taman Tun Fuad Stephen. Light rain somewhat hampered our night-birding, but we did get some views of a Sunda Scops Owl, though rather obscured. Whitehead’s Broadbill (Dave Williamson) The next morning, with an early start, we headed inland to the Crocker Range. After our picnic breakfast at the Rafflesia Reserve, we began to see some of the specialities of the Bornean highlands, like Mountain and Bornean Barbets, Long-tailed Broadbill, Black-and-crimson Oriole, Bornean Treepie, Sunda and Chestnut- hooded Laughingthrushes, Bornean, Cinereous and Ochraceous (or Chestnut-vented) Bulbuls, Grey- chinned (or Grey-throated) Minivet, Bornean Leafbird, Yellow-breasted Warbler, Grey-throated (or Montane) Babbler, Chestnut-crested Yuhina, Black-capped White-eye, and Temminck’s Sunbird. A little further along the road we found a couple of cryptic Pygmy White-eyes, and had some great views of Golden-whiskered Barbet. A flighty Whitehead’s Spiderhunter was seen all too briefly, but more were to follow! We continued 2 BirdQuest Tour Report: Borneo: Sabah www.birdquest-tours.com the drive to our accommodation at Kundasang, where we spent five-nights in the daunting shadow of Mt. Kinabalu. One of the many Fruithunters that were on show this year (Dave Williamson) Over the following four full days, we explored various elevations and trails at Kinabalu Park. Quite a lot of time was lost to rain this year, but mostly in the afternoons, so thankfully it didn’t seem to cost us many target birds. At the highest drivable point, around Timpohon Gate, we found a range of goodies this year, including a small flock of lovely Fruithunters, incredible close-ups of a singing Bornean Stubtail, a couple of pairs of Mountain Blackeyes foraging through some smaller tree tops, and our second Whitehead’s Spiderhunter of the tour. Along the various forest trails on the way down to the headquarters buildings we found several fan- tastic Whitehead’s Broadbills along with more Fruithunters, and had our only sighting of Crimson-headed Partridge. Bornean Shortwings (now usually split from White-browed) showed well on a number of occa- sions, and we saw two different pairs of diminutive Bornean Forktails. One productive stretch of road held a large mixed-species feeding flock, which included Checker-throated Woodpecker, Bornean Spangled Drongo (a split from Hair-crested), Bornean Whistler, Bare-headed Laughingthrush amongst the commoner Sunda and Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrushes, gaudy Bornean Green Magpies, and even one or two tag- 3 BirdQuest Tour Report: Borneo: Sabah www.birdquest-tours.com along Whitehead’s Broadbills. Early mornings were also productive in this area, with close-ups of rather con- fiding Eyebrowed Jungle Flycatchers, and even a Brown Wood Owl during one early morning stint. A Pair of Everett’s Thrushes that were flushed by our vehicles were unfortunately only seen well by the leader. We spent a long time tracking down the lovely Whitehead’s Trogon, eventually getting some very nice prolonged views of a pair along the Liwagu River Trail. Nearby, we had some amazingly tame Mountain Wren- Babblers, and one of the tours most interesting mammals, in the form of a Bornean Water Shrew swimming in a tiny trail-side stream. A smaller trail closer to the headquarters brought our only views of Red-breasted Partridge. On one morning, by the Liwagu Restaurant, we had absolutely superb close-up views of White- head’s Spiderhunter. During a side-trip to Mesilau, on a rainy afternoon, we managed to locate the local form of Flavescent Bulbul, which is usually now split as Pale-faced Bulbul. On another afternoon, after a tip-off, we twitched a huge flowering Rafflesia at Poring - a very memorable experience. Whitehead’s Spiderhunter (Craig Robson) Leaving Kinabalu behind, we drove to Sepilok, for a very comfortable overnight stay at a well-situated resort. Although famous for its Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, Sepilok also has a good-sized patch of well pro- tected lowland tropical forest. In the afternoon we visited the well-known canopy walkway. Bornean Bristle- head’s are often seen here but we drew a blank on this occasion. However, we did get good views of an Umber Flycatcher (a proposed split from Brown-streaked), as well as Black Hornbill and a range of other species. Two Bornean Orangutans were seen going to roost nearby, perhaps recently released from rehabili- tation. As nightfall approached we embarked on a well-guided night walk through the forest, during which highlights included face-to-face views of a roosting Rufous-backed (or Oriental Dwarf) Kingfisher, Small- toothed (or Bornean Striped) Palm Civet, three species of flying squirrel, and Bornean Keeled Pit Viper. Up at dawn we tried the canopy walkway again, before taking some trails through the forest. Our best birds were Diard’s Trogon, Red-bearded Bee-eater, a singing Black-crowned Pitta, and Long-billed Spiderhunter. 4 BirdQuest Tour Report: Borneo: Sabah www.birdquest-tours.com After lunch we drove to Gomantong Cave, and quickly made our way to the main cavern where Mossy- and Black-nest Swiftlets were both seen on their tell-tale nests - though in very small numbers. Back outside, at dusk, the first Wrinkle-lipped Free-tailed Bats began to emerge, and we enjoyed entertaining views of at least four Bat Hawks. It was then just a short drive and a five-minute boat ride to our riverside lodge near Bilit. Roosting Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher (Dave Williamson) We had two days and an early morning to explore the forested stretch of the Kinabatangan River between Bilit and Sukau, as well as its major tributaries. Almost all of our birding was done in a pretty relaxed fashion from our boat. Perhaps our number one target, was the rare and retiring Bornean Ground Cuckoo. They were rather quiet during this visit but on one early morning, two birds called to each other from opposite banks of the Sungei Tenegang, and we succeeded in seeing one of them reasonably well, although rather too briefly. Nightbirds were also high on the agenda and required a couple of predawn starts under the cover of darkness. Two different Buffy Fish Owls were easily seen, while we failed to connect with an erratically calling Large Frogmouth on multiple occasions! Other avian highlights were Chestnut-necklaced Partridge, a couple of neat Storm’s Storks, Jerdon’s Baza - which is quite common here -, Grey-headed and Lesser Fish Eagles, Little Green Pigeon, Wrinkled Hornbill, White-bellied Woodpecker, our only White-fronted Falconet of the tour, many Long-tailed Parakeets, two Hooded Pittas, a couple of wintering Crow-billed Drongos, and Malaysian Blue Flycatcher. This was also a fantastic place for mammals. The narrower tributaries brought the best views of the wonderful Proboscis Monkeys, and we also found lots of Silvered Langurs, and a su- perb mature male Bornean Orangutan. It was then time to cross the river to our waiting bus and commence the journey to Lahad Datu, before being transported to the legendary Borneo Rainforest Lodge. Before long, we were travelling through an increas- ingly wild jungle landscape. At BRL, we were lucky enough to be joined by Azmil, one of the most experi- enced and capable guides there. 5 BirdQuest Tour Report: Borneo: Sabah www.birdquest-tours.com We had the best part of four days at this superb birding hotspot, exploring the entrance road, canopy walk- way area, and various well-known side trails. Our foremost target bird was of course Bornean Bristlehead. Being in its own family, it is always a big draw for birders visiting Borneo. Fortunately, Azmil made it his mis- sion to find this bird for us and, with the use of one of the new lodge buggies, succeeded in tracking down a small group for us on our last full day.
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