The Changing Colour of CHANEL's Lipstick Ranges from 1960 to 2015

1Hélène de Clermont- Gallerande The changing colour of CHANEL’s helene.declermontgallerande@ chanel-corp.com lipstick ranges from 1960 to 2015 [corresponding author] 1Nicolas Rolland nicolas.rolland@chanel-corp. com ABSTRACT 1Patrick Doucet We compiled the history of CHANEL’s range of lipsticks between 1960 and 2015 by patrick.doucet@chanel-corp. com studying the colour charts carefully kept in the company’s archives. The chosen colour 1Julie Deydier space is NCS System as the representation of hue, blackness and chromaticness [email protected] 2Anne Varichon are easy to communicate to non-colour experts. The number of shades increased anne.varichon@culturecouleur. steadily between 1960 and 2005, rising from 12 shades in 1960 to 55 shades in com 2005. From the colour point of view, there is a predominance of orangey tones. 2Barbara Blin-Barrois [email protected] Reds were always present. Bluish reds were in constant decline compared with other shades: fewer in number, with a shorter life on the markets and more unstable 1 CHANEL Parfums Beauté, 8 rue du Cheval Blanc CS40045, in Chanel’s offer. In terms of clarity, dark shades ranging to nearly black are in the 93694 Pantin Cedex FRANCE great majority. As regards chromaticness, there is continuity in the saturated shades, 2 Culture Couleur SAS, 600 bureaux du Jas, 84000 especially the reds. Lastly, the shades are fashioned with a high degree of subtlety Roussillon France as they are often very close to one another in the colorimetric space. At CHANEL, the delicacy of the shades is due to their colorimetric fashioning with all the subtlety typical of the brand

KEYWORDS Lipsticks, evolution, colour, colour charts, CHANEL, hue, NCS

Received 28 June 2017; Revised 27 August 2018; Accepted 27 August 2018

CITATION: de Clermont-Gallerande H., Rolland N., Doucet P., Deydier J., Varichon A. and Blin-Barrois B. (2018) ‘The changing colour of CHANEL’s lipstick ranges from 1960 to 2015’, Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science Journal, 10, pp. 21-29, DOI: 10.23738/ccsj.i102018.03

Hélène de Clermont-Gallerande is Make-Up Research Laboratory Manager in CHANEL. PhD in Organic Chemistry, she has an experience of more than 25 years in Make-up and colour formulation in cosmetic field and is inventor of more than 10 cosmetics patents. She is teaching cosmetic formulation at Bordeaux’s University and published a collaborative book on Sensorial cosmetic raw materials. She managed the color analysis for this study. Nicolas Rolland is colorist in Chanel Colour Development laboratory for 5 years. Previously, he worked in l’Oreal, also as colorist. He has an expertise in color data management and achieved the measures of colour-charts for this study. After History of Art studies, Julie Deydier worked in Manufacture de Sèvres (china), Musée Galliéra (Paris City Fashion Museum), and joined CHANEL Heritage Department in 2003. She has been working more precisely on Fragrance and Beauty heritage for 11 years, developing a specialised knowkledge on luxury fragrance, makeup and skincare. Particularly interested in colour and its use in beauty, she added her expertise on CHANEL cosmetics in this study. Patrick Doucet is the CHANEL Fragrance and Beauty Heritage Manager since 25 years and an expert about the Gabrielle Chanel and the brand CHANEL history. His vision is that the Heritage must be a major contributor, in all its significant aspects, to the knowledge and the general development of the brand Anne Varichon, Anthropologist in Color Materials, Processes and Thinking, PhD in Applied Arts, expert in color charts. She publishes her researches in numerous publications (in particular “Colors”). She teaches in universities and fine art schools and is in charge of museographical or research programs (notably with CNRS). She comanages Culture Couleur, a specialized agency in color-related phenomena, supporting companies and institutions on projects and cooperating in research or training activities. Barbara Blin-Barrois, is an expert of systemic approaches and interdisciplinary methods, graduated in Political Sciences. She is cofoundator of ôkhra, a cultural colour cooperative in Provence. She organized for 20 years CNRS scientific schools about Colour Materials and color cultural programs. Barbara has developed specific pedagogical and mediation tools, favorizing multi-disciplinary stakeholders cooperation. She comanages Culture Couleur, a color research and learning agency.

Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science | 10 | 2018 ISSN 2384-9568 22 DOI: 10.23738/ccsj.i102018.03 de Clermont-Gallerande H., Rolland N., Doucet P., Deydier J., Varichon A. and Blin-Barrois B.

1. INTRODUCTION and the lipsticks, meaning that a scientific study could be conducted without bias. The purpose of this study is to show how the It should be noted that the high quality of the colour of CHANEL Lipsticks has changed paper used to make the colour charts of luxury over the past 55 years. Since 1992 make-up companies and appropriate archiving conditions products sold by the company have been kept, mean that the documents can be kept for as have the colour charts, which represent all a very long time, and therefore that colour the available colour ranges in the form of a measurements made several years after printing catalogue (Varichon, 2011). These have been can be used. At CHANEL all the documents are archived since 1930, which is why the decision stored in darkness, in rooms kept at a constant was taken to work only on colour charts since temperature of 19°C with 60 % relative humidity the range of colours is complete, while in the (hygrometry). They are handled only with gloves oldest ranges some lipstick colours are missing. (Colour chart from 1960 - 1963 - 1970 - 1972 To reveal trends, the colour charts used are at - 1980 - 1985 - 1990 - 1995 - 2000 - 2005 5-year intervals, unless the colour chart of the - 2010. CHANEL own property). The colour desired year is missing. The selected years for samples of the colour charts are made through the study are 1960, 1963, 1970, 1972, 1980, paint deposition by a serigraphy process. 1985, 1990, 1995, 2000, 2005, 2010 and 2015. The NCS® system was chosen for the measurement of colour charts. The NCS® 2. MATERIALS AND METHOD Colour Scan colorimeter was used to measure the 379 reference shades on the colour charts. The correspondence of the colours between a Duplicate NCS® references (or references with lipstick and its graphical representation in the 3 or more identical references) were eliminated colour chart was validated by measurement using the NCS® Atlas (by eye, D65 light, X-Rite comparison using an X-Rite VS450 contactless box) except where no NCS® coordinate allowed spectrophotometer in the CIEL*a*b* colour a distinction to be made between colours (NCS space, in order not to damage the documents, Color Atlas, 3rd edition, 1996; NCS Color Album, some of which are old, and unique items in 2nd edition, 1995). Data was entered in the NCS CHANEL’s heritage collections. There were few Navigator® application and displayed in the 3D differences between the different colour charts space (ncscolor.com).

Figure 1 - Comparison between colour charts and lipsticks .

Hydrabase 1972 Superhydrabase 1985

Figure 2 - The studied colour charts store in Patrimony Department from CHANEL. Ranked from top to bottom: 1960, 1963, 1970, 1972, 1980, 1985, 1990, 1995, 2000, 2005, 2010, 2015. .

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Each colour chart measured is characterized additional pearlised shades appeared in 1963. (hue, blackness, chromaticness). A comparative These were all light and desaturated colours. analysis between the different years is made This is explained by the launch of mica-titanium (Perec, 2003). This made it possible to determine white pearls in 1959 by the Merck™ company. changes in colour ranges over the years, forming The saturated reds are retained and Scintillant a colour time line specific to CHANEL. is launched. This Rouge-Orangé (orangey-red) lipstick would be renamed Sari Doré in 1972 3. RESULTS and still features in the Rouge Coco 2015 lipstick range. In 1970, golden and pale beiges The first period identified within the scope of the predominated, reflecting the androgynous study was from 1960 to 1970. It is distinctive for style first adopted by Twiggy, but also a desire the presence of a low blackness level and clear by the CHANEL company to be creative and shades, high chromaticness or, the opposite, innovative in the colours it offered (Delay, 1973). high desaturation of shades, the creation of 3 In this same year, 2 other classic shades were classical colours for Chanel and the beginning created: Téhéran, is still offered today after 52 of chromatic explorations (Galante, 1972). From years in the Rouge Coco range under the same 1960, there were 12 lip colours, only light shades. name (Mollard-Desfour, 2001; 2002), and Saturated clear reds were already present. 12 Bombay that would last until 1990. Interestingly,

Figure 3 - The chosen colour space is NCS System. The 3D representation of hue, blackness and chromaticness are easy to communicate to non- colour experts

Figure 4 - First period is from 1960 to 1970: Low blackness level, creation of 3 classical shades for CHANEL and beginning of chromatic explorations.

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Jackie Kennedy’s visit to India in 1962 would under its permanent name. The predominance influence the names given to CHANEL products, of orangey reds was affirmed to the point that names such as Bombay, Sari Doré, Delhi, Ispahan. only one bluish-red was offered in the range The second period is from 1972 to 1980. It is of 1972. In 1980, the range offered 30 shades characterized by the introduction of very dark and saw the inclusion of an increased number shades, not only breaking away from medium of browns. These browns continued the changes light shades, but also establishing CHANEL’s begun in 1972 by reducing the differences colour basics for its lipsticks. The range was between the colours. The shades were very still in beige tones but had darkened towards closely packed in the colorimetric space, which browns. In 1980, Fauve was the precursor of created an increasingly subtle differentiation the red-blacks dear to CHANEL. Few very bright between them. The shades rooted in the brand’s colours except a few bright reds survived from DNA appeared: Printemps Doré, now Marie, earlier years. The Sari Doré colour, still present Prunelle now called Cécile, Pivoine which has in CHANEL’s range today, made its appearance become Arthur, Feu which is Gabrielle and Bois

Figure 5 - Second period is from 1972 to 1980: Introduction of very dark shades and establishment of CHANEL’s colour basics for its lipsticks.

Figure 6 - Third period is from 1985 to 1995: Presence of bluish reds and of very similar tones

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Doré which is now Misia. Although the range is shades are very similar as a group but look darker, a few saturated reds persist. Despite the different when applied because of a more or less death of Gabrielle CHANEL in 1971, CHANEL’s marked transparent effect or a pearly sheen. colour positioning continued to be rolled out: the The fourth and last period is from 2000 to predominance of orangey-reds, deep shades, 2015. It is characterized by very deep shades, the close similarity of subtly different shades in a marked low chromaticness as a result of order to differentiate the range and the presence nudging the center of the colorimetric space, of saturated reds. particularly in 2000, an over-representation of A third period covers the years between 1985 and orangey-reds and the similarity of the shades 1995. It is distinctive not only for the presence of offered. In 2000, deep shades were offered bluish reds – a very temporary phase at CHANEL with two very dark shades included in the range: – but also for the constancy of an offer of darker Brun Sortilège and the iconic Rouge Noir. This time and darker shades and very similar tones. In Sari Doré was still the only light and saturated 1985, the colour range was very balanced: the colour. The number of shades and their close range offered 30 shades, 10 of which were juxtaposition made it hard to discriminate to still orangey tones divided between light and such levels of desaturation. In 2005, CHANEL dark shades although the very desaturated offered 55 shades in order to meet the needs browns of 1980 had disappeared. Bluish colours of worldwide business. This range was made reappeared in light or dark shades and a group lighter by the return of low chromaticness light of highly saturated reds remained. In 1990, the shades, designed for the Asian market, even colour chart presented 35 bright colours. The though dark shades continued to predominate bluish shades were light or dark and sometimes (Varichon, 2011). In 2010, the range refocused highly saturated. The range of reds expanded on 37 shades but discarded all bluish shades to the point that the shades overlap in the with the exception of Rose Comète. The colorimetric space. The orangey shades were exclusion under cosmetics regulations of Red more individualised and brighter than before. In 19 and Red 9 in the 1990s, both natural fuchsia 1995, CHANEL offered 42 shades of lipstick that pink pigments, explains the difficulties of explored dark tones. formulating bluish shades of lipstick. It retained The very light shades vanished. Only 6 light a predominance of dark and desaturated shades and with high chromaticness colours, including going to almost black. High chromaticness Sari Doré, maintained brightness. Through an shades, with the exception of Sari Doré, were innovative blend of black and red, CHANEL’s discontinued. This decade showcased the “Near- Vernis Rouge Noir was created for the Autumn- blacks” with measurements that fell very low on Winter 1994 catwalk show. A lipstick of the the clarity axis and very high desaturation levels same colour was launched in 1996. During this (Morand, 1976). The shades overlapped in the NCS colorimetric space, which shows that the Figure 7 - Fourth and last period is decade, the similarity of the shades created from 2000 to 2015: Confirmation translated into the existence of a number of different shades were worked to the limits of the of very dark shades and low duplicates: several lipsticks register on exactly ability to distinguish one from the other. chromaticness, predominancy of the same NCS reference. This means that the In 2015, the range comprises 28 shades orangey-red and very similar tones

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Figure 8 - Colour Time Line for the distinctive for their variety and brightness. to emerge from this study: Orangey Red Lipsticks. The vertical Colours are deployed in the colorimetric space, axis represents the years studied. The reconnecting with the individualised tones that horizontal axis represents the NCS Predominance and constancy of the orangey references ranked from the lower to had been eliminated since the 1970s. The range colours. These are present as beiges and the higher blackness. Each coloured has rediscovered a balance not only between browns, but also as vivid tones. The most rectangle is the representation of a orangey, red and bluish shades, but between emblematic are Sari Doré, reference NCS 2070- lipstick mentioned on a colour chart. light and dark shades too. Y90R which has been present since 1972 with 10 occurrences and Téhéran under NCS 4. DISCUSSION reference 2050-Y90R present since 1963, or 52 years and 11 occurrences at the time of the Hue: study. If one has to identify the signature lipstick B shades specific to CHANEL, this is what appears The saturation of the reds. There are fewer of

NCS S 0570-Y80R 0570-Y90R 0580-Y80R 1050-Y80R 1060-Y90R 1070-Y80R 1070-Y90R 1080-Y90R 1085-Y80R 1085-Y90R 1515-Y90R 1580-Y80R 1580-Y90R 2020-Y90R 2030-Y60R 2030-Y90R 2040-Y50R 2040-Y80R 2040-Y90R 2050-Y80R 2050-Y90R 2060-Y80R 2060-Y90R 2070-Y80R 2070-Y90R 2075-Y60R 2570-Y80R 2570-Y90R 3020-Y80R 3030-Y70R 3030-Y80R 3030-Y90R 3040-Y80R 3040-Y90R 3050-Y80R 3050-Y90R 3060-Y80R 3060-Y90R 3560-Y70R 3560-Y80R 3560-Y90R 4020-Y90R 4030-Y80R 4030-Y90R 4040-Y60R 4040-Y80R 4040-Y90R 4050-Y90R 4550-Y80R 4550-Y90R 5020-Y90R 5030-Y80R 5030-Y90R 5040-Y80R 5040-Y90R 5540-Y90R 6020-Y90R 6030-Y80R 6030-Y90R 7020-Y80R 7020-Y90R

2 015 2 015 410 Catherine 414 Sari Doré 416 Coco 412 Téhéran 440 Arthur 418 Misia 444 Gabrielle 400 Louise 402 Adrienne 404 Julia 406 Antoinette 408 Jeanne

2 010 28 Byzantin 2 010 76 Sari Doré 35 Chintz 56 Téhéran 4 Cashmere 19 Gabrielle 6 Égérie 17 Orchidée 3 Secret 15 Ruban Rose 8 La Pausa 31 Cambon 24 Bel Respiro 25 Vendôme 2 Perlé 34 Satin 14 Muse 10 Camélia 36 Lune Rousse 1 Beige Félin 33 Bois des Iles 32 Sycomore 27 Talisman 21 Rivoli 26 Venise 30 Baroque 29 Ballet Russe

2005 67 Beige Mythique 36 Lune Rousse #53 Mirobolant 2005 76 Sari Doré 17 Lys 68 Captif 51 Iris 72 Jaïpur Coral 56 Téhéran 3 Cashmere 69 Tango 90 Pirate 27 Baby Gold 80 Osaka Peach 77 Crinoline 42 Miami Peach 25 Energie 79 Rose Paradise 45 Aventure Temptress 50 Félin 83 Hanoï Pink 58 Tokyo Beige 41 Sahara Beige 71 Shantung 6 Orient Russet Moon Swing 84 Moiré 70 Barcelona Red 28 Pulsion 54 Toscane Bronze

70 Rouge Coromandel 2000 76 Sari Doré 1 Sorbet Orange 81 Rouge Péché 56 Téhéran 52 Craquant 22 Rouge Star 98 Sensible 12 Satellite 49 Délice 99 Ellipse 93 Métal Roux 45 Aventure 67 Beige Mythique 50 Félin 62 Fatal 95 Magnétique 14 Brun Insolent 36 Lune Rousse 26 Brun Glacé 97 Rouge Ténèbre 84 Beige de Chanel 39 Ambre d‘Or 89 Odyssée 21 Brun Sortilège 2000

70 Rouge 19 95 Coromandel 19 95 76 Sari Doré 20 Rouge Podium 66 Rouge de Nuit 56 Téhéran 60 Rouge Evasion 22 Rouge Star 42 Rouge Coralline 65 Éclair Rouge 45 Aventure 50 Félin 62 Fatal 14 Brun Insolent 36 Lune Rousse 39 Ambre d‘Or

1990 20 Rouge Podium 70 Rouge 1990 76 Sari Doré 34 Rouge de Minuit 33 Rouge Fou Rire Coromandel 67 Bombay 56 Téhéran #29 Brasier d‘Or 75 Pivoine 52 Cayenne 22 Rouge Star 14 Brun Insolent 36 Lune Rousse

1985 70 Rouge 52 Cayenne 1985 76 Sari Doré 53 Garance Coromandel 67 Bombay 56 Téhéran 75 Pivoine 54 Rouge Impatient 68 Aurore 9 Brun Marine 62 Cuivre

198 0 198 0 76 Sari Doré 53 Garance 35 Rouge de CHANEL 64 Bombay 56 Téhéran 39 Rose Flamboyant 7 Gorge de Pigeon 75 Pivoine 52 Cayenne 19 Feu 25 Été Doré 88 Miel 32 Sable Rose 62 Cuivre 73 Braise Doré 45 Piment 84 Grenade 74 Ceylan 51 Brun Flamboyant 34 Sable Roux

1972 1972 76 Sari Doré 23 Pourpre 64 Bombay 56 Téhéran 83 Cristal de Roche 75 Pivoine 15 Orange 24 Bois Doré 78 Mysore Doré 25 Été Doré 88 Miel 81 Atoll 87 Airelle 82 Lagon 74 Ceylan 18 Acajou 1970 1970 10 Jeunesse 72 Sari 67 Baalbeck 68 Mysore 42 Rose Tropique 64 Bombay 66 Lhassa 56 Téhéran 2 Bois de rose 70 Manille 5 Été

19 63 19 63 27 Saumon 14 Étincelant 57 Madalay 43 Scintillant 59 Colombo 56 Téhéran 2 Bois de Rose 20 Radieux 29 Vison

1960 1960

9 Saumon 11 Étincelant 8 Garance 5 Radieux 1 Vison

2 015 2 015 410 Catherine 414 Sari Doré 416 Coco 412 Téhéran 440 Arthur 418 Misia 444 Gabrielle 400 Louise 402 Adrienne 404 Julia 406 Antoinette 408 Jeanne

1985 70 Rouge 52 Cayenne 1985 76 Sari Doré 53 Garance Coromandel 67 Bombay 56 Téhéran 75 Pivoine 54 Rouge Impatient 68 Aurore 9 Brun Marine 62 Cuivre

19 63 19 63 27 Saumon 14 Étincelant 57 Madalay 43 Scintillant 59 Colombo 56 Téhéran 2 Bois de Rose 20 Radieux 29 Vison

1960 1960

9 Saumon 11 Étincelant 8 Garance 5 Radieux 1 Vison

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these than there are orangey colours, but their CHANEL’s customers. Figure 9 - Colour Time Line for the saturation makes them stand out. Reds such Blue and Red Lipsticks. The vertical as Rouge Noir, with 3 occurrences, reference The discretion of blue tones. No signature axis represents the years studied. The horizontal axis represents the NCS NCS 7020-R, are all intense, and have become specific to CHANEL emerges. Only one shade references ranked from the lower to iconic. One can also mention Paris, reference representative of this tonality appears twice the higher blackness. Each coloured NCS 2570-R, and Marie, reference NCS 3560- in the ranges: Bruyère in 1972, as well as Rose rectangle is the representation of a R, both repeated in 8 occurrences. The reds Comète in 2010. Amongst the longest lasting lipstick mentioned on a colour chart have exceptional longevity at CHANEL: a red blues, reference NCS 2060-R10B is repeated shade remains on the market for 19 years on on 6 occasions and reference 2070-R10B is average. So there is little novelty but real fidelity repeated on 8 occasions. over time, which shows that the true reds suit

NCS S 1040-R10B 1040-R20B 1050-R10B 1060-R10B 1060-R20B 1070-R10B 1070-R20B 1575-R10B 2040-R10B 2040-R20B 2050-R10B 2050-R20B 2060-R10B 2060-R20B 2065-R20B 2070-R10B 3040-R10B 3040-R20B 3050-R10B 3060-R10B 3060-R20B 4020-R10B 4030-R20B 4050-R10B 4050-R20B 5020-R20B 5040-R10B 6020-R10B 6030-R20B 7020-R20B 0550-R 0560-R 0565-R 1060-R 1070-R 1080-R 1580-R 2040-R 2050-R 2060-R 2070-R 2570-R 3020-R 3030-R 3040-R 3050-R 3060-R 3560-R 4030-R 4040-R 4050-R 5030-R 5040-R 6030-R 7020-R

2 015 2 015 422 Olga 424 Édith 420 Vera 448 Élise 426 Roussy 450 Ina 452 Émilienne 454 Jean 456 Erik 442 Dimitri 432 Cécile 428 Légende 430 Marie 446 Étienne 434 Mademoiselle 438 Suzanne

2 010 2 010 20 Rose Comète 37 Rose Dentelle 22 Paris 13 Gardénia 11 Légende 23 Rouge Orage 16 Taffetas Rose 9 Organdi Rose 5 Mademoiselle 18 Rouge Noir

2005 47 Escapade 23 Rouge Orage 2005 66 Vanity 4 Azaléa 7 Bengale 57 Pimpant 13 Rosalilas 40 Pink Ballerina 44 Paris Pink 32 Vibrant 11 Sirène 73 Violette 34 Sirocco 55 Envoûtant Berry 19 Rouge N°19 29 Fuschine 762 Image Rose 94 Aurora 48 English Rose 78 Shanghaï Red 65 Fire 64 Rose Baby Désert Rose Rosestone 2 India 60 New York Red 49 Venice Violine 18 Rouge Noir Vamp

40 Pourpre 2000 57 Pimpant 61 Rose de Glace 17 Intensité Rose 10 Malice 41 Précieux 33 Polaire 82 Topaze 86 Boréal 47 Escapade 23 Rouge Orage 59 Canicule 20 Sidéral 53 Mirobolant 88 Calypso 18 Rouge Noir 2000 34 Sirocco 55 Evoûtant #9 Rouge N°19 96 Rouge Argent 37 Morocco

38 Rouge Flamboyant #17 Intensité Rose 3 Or Rouge 2 Rouge Marquise 19 95 55 Envoûtant 12 Rouge Dragon 78 Provocation 47 Escapade 23 Rouge Orage 64 Écrin Rouge 40 Pourpre 19 95 16 Rose Escale 48 Rose de CHANEL 13 Rose Fou 91 Rose Éclat 61 Rose de Glace 30 Rose Frisson 31 Faille Rose 46 Rose d‘Or 41 Précieux 35 Accent 92 Rose Passion 72 Rouge Imaginaire 44 Rose Frêle 6 Rouge Satin 79 Insolite 19 Rouge N°19

13 Rose Fou 86 Flamme Bleue 27 Praline 38 Rouge 1990 16 Rose Escale 48 Rose de Chanel 1990 57 Bengale 91 Rose Éclat 68 Aurore 30 Rose Fission 31 Faille Rose 6 Rouge Satin 90 Ouragan Bleu 19 Rouge N°19 37 Rose Caprice 92 Rose Passion 99 Rose Cuivré 8 Griotte 12 Rouge Dragon Flamboyant 32 Rouge Imprévu 23 Rouge Orage 2 Rouge Marquise

1985 37 Rose Caprice 77 Rouge Comédie 89 Ouragan Rouge 99 Rose Cuivré 83 Brun Coromandel 38 Rouge 1985 27 Praline Rose 8 Griotte 1 Vénitien Flamboyant 48 Rose de CHANEL 57 Bengale 91 Rose Éclat 7 Rose Marine 59 Bruyère 86 Flamme Bleue 71 Laque Rouge 87 Flamme Rose 92 Rose Passion 26 Rouge Magique 98 Rose Brûlant

198 0 38 Rouge 198 0 13 Midi 02 Rouge en Diable 77 Manille Doré 27 Praline 8 Griotte Flamboyant 01 Terre Cuite 61 Fuchsia 43 Carmin 55 Fauve

1972 1972 17 Bruyère 13 Midi 77 Manille Doré 16 Sangria 26 Printemps Doré 89 Prunelle 1970 1970 22 Rose Aurore 19 Flamme 73 Taloda 46 Fuchsia 4 Printemps 13 Midi 60 Delhi

19 63 42 Rose Tropique 19 63 22 Rose Aurore 55 Ispahan 19 Flamme 1 Rose Tendre 9 Rose Mousseline 63 Lahore 58 Bénarès 62 Ankara 30 Primerose 13 Midi 12 Éclatant 31 Rue Cambon 60 Delhi 61 Karachi

1960 1960 2 Rose Aurore 12 Flamme 4 Rose Tendre 10 Midi 6 Éclatant 7 Rue Cambon 3 Rose Mousseline

2 015 2 015 422 Olga 424 Édith 420 Vera 448 Élise 426 Roussy 450 Ina 452 Émilienne 454 Jean 456 Erik 442 Dimitri 432 Cécile 428 Légende 430 Marie 446 Étienne 434 Mademoiselle 438 Suzanne

2 010 2 010 20 Rose Comète 37 Rose Dentelle 22 Paris 13 Gardénia 11 Légende 23 Rouge Orage 16 Taffetas Rose 9 Organdi Rose 5 Mademoiselle 18 Rouge Noir

198 0 38 Rouge 198 0 13 Midi 02 Rouge en Diable 77 Manille Doré 27 Praline 8 Griotte Flamboyant 01 Terre Cuite 61 Fuchsia 43 Carmin 55 Fauve

1972 1972 17 Bruyère 13 Midi 77 Manille Doré 16 Sangria 26 Printemps Doré 89 Prunelle 1970 1970 22 Rose Aurore 19 Flamme 73 Taloda 46 Fuchsia 4 Printemps 13 Midi 60 Delhi

19 63 42 Rose Tropique 19 63 22 Rose Aurore 55 Ispahan 19 Flamme 1 Rose Tendre 9 Rose Mousseline 63 Lahore 58 Bénarès 62 Ankara 30 Primerose 13 Midi 12 Éclatant 31 Rue Cambon 60 Delhi 61 Karachi

1960 1960 2 Rose Aurore 12 Flamme 4 Rose Tendre 10 Midi 6 Éclatant 7 Rue Cambon 3 Rose Mousseline

Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science | 10 | 2018 | 21 - 29 ISSN 2384-9568 28 DOI: 10.23738/ccsj.i102018.03 de Clermont-Gallerande H., Rolland N., Doucet P., Deydier J., Varichon A. and Blin-Barrois B.

Blackness: hue, there is a predominance of orangey-red Dark colours are in the majority, and include tones, a saturation of the reds and a shyness near-blacks. Except for the years 1960, 1963 of blue tones. For the blackness, there is a huge and 1970, when the ranges only had light colours, majority of dark colours, including near-blacks. from 1972 most colours have been dark. Dark For the chromaticness, there is a constancy of does not mean dull: Rouge Noir is dark and very saturated colours. There is a huge increase of the vivid. The years 1995, 2000, 2005 and 2010, in numbers of shades proposed to the customers particular, developed dark tonalities. Since 2000 starting from 12 shades in 1960 and growing up the dark colours have been very close to black to 55 shades in 2005. And as already mentioned, in the chromatic space. There is only one colour the colours are very close one from each other with this degree of black in the 2015 range, but in the colorimetric space and can be near similar more than 3/4 of the range was in this category excepted a pearlescent or satiny effect. at the apogee of the “near-blacks”. FUNDING Chromaticness: Vividness is confirmed unambiguously. All This research did not receive any specific grant the ranges contain many saturated colours, from funding agencies in the public, commercial, whichever year is considered, and whatever or not-for-profit sector. the brightness or tonality of the lipsticks. The 2 most restrained ranges are 2005 and 2010, years marked by dark colours. Conversely, 1995, CONFLICT OF INTEREST which was also very dark, was full of contrasts, as it is one of the most vivid ranges. The 3 The authors declare that there is no conflict of highest chromaticness ranges are 1980, 1990, interest with other people or organizations. and 1995, within which the most intense colours are Garance, Rouge de Minuit and Rouge Podium, BIBLIOGRAPHY respectively. From 1960 CHANEL sold 12 lipsticks, quite Colour chart from 1980. CHANEL own property a broad choice compared to other cosmetic brands at the time. The colour offer exploded in Colour chart from 1985. CHANEL own property the following years, reaching 55 shades in 2005. Colour chart from 1990. CHANEL own property CHANEL has always explored chromatic areas, first by offering low chromaticness Beiges from Colour chart from 1995. CHANEL own property 1970 the near-blacks from 1980. Bright reds Colour chart from 2000. CHANEL own property have been a constant in the brand’s offer. Finally, 3 documents that summarize all hues Colour chart from 2005. CHANEL own property present in the ranges were created. They are called Colour Time Lines. One is dedicated to Colour chart from 2010. CHANEL own property Orangey Red lipsticks and the header is yellow. Colour chart from 2015. CHANEL own property The second one is dedicated to Blue lipsticks and the third to Red lipsticks. In this publication, Delay C. (1983) CHANEL solitaire. Paris: éd. Gallimard, p. Blue and Red lipsticks all come together. The 192 band that underlines the Colour Time Line is blue Galante P. (1972) Les Années CHANEL. Paris: éd. Paris- for the bluish lipsticks and red for the red ones. Match/Mercure de France, p.50 If all the ranges under study are considered, it can be seen that colour differences between the Mollard-Desfour A. (2001) Dictionnaire des mots et expressions de couleur : Le Rouge, Editions CNRS different lipsticks have reduced since 1980. The colours have become closer to one another in the Mollard -Desfour A. (2002), Dictionnaire des mots et colorimetric space, making it ever more difficult expressions de couleur : Le Rose, Editions CNRS to distinguish one colour from another. The Morand P. (1976) L’Allure de CHANEL. Paris: éd. Hermann, number of colours and their close juxtaposition rééd. 1996, ill. Karl Lagerfeld, pp 55-57. sometimes makes it difficult to discriminate between them. NCS Color Atlas, 3rd edition, 1996

NCS Color Album, 2nd edition, 1995 5. CONCLUSIONS NCScolor.com Through the analysis of the in-house colour charts, the history of CHANEL lipstick colour Perec G. (2003) Penser/Classer, Editions du Seuil from 1960 to 2015 was written. The main Varichon A. (2011) « Noir et blanc dans les nuanciers : lines that CHANEL is drawing that are its own couple fertile ou célibataires endurcis? », Proceedings characteristics are the one following: For the of Spring School from - C2RMF - UPMC - MNHN - CF, La

ISSN 2384-9568 Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science | 10 | 2018 | 21 - 29 The changing colour of CHANEL’s lipstick ranges from 1960 to 2015 29

couleur des matériaux, Roussillon, mars, pp 115-118

Varichon A. (2011) Couleur et nuancier, territoires et fonctions, analyse poïétique de l’échantillonnage de la couleur par les manufactures, l’industrie et le commerce (mi-XIXème à nos jours), thèse de doctorat en arts appliqués NNT: 2011TOU20129

Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science | 10 | 2018 | 21 - 29 ISSN 2384-9568