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English Channel The Beat, Burberry’s COTY IN DEL DEAL/8 TOMMY’S SOHO HOME/17 latest women’s scent, Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • December 7, 2007 • $2.00 page 8. Beauty English Channel LONDON — Coco Chanel had deep links to London — both romantic and professional — so it was only natural that Karl Lagerfeld brought his road show to town, literally taking it over with Chanel-logoed cabs, two parties and a runway show for his métiers d’art collection of pre-fall ready-to-wear. Mixing Gallic chic with British punk, the show featured bags covered in Union Jacks, winklepicker shoes, tartan tulle dresses and Amy Winehouse-inspired hair. Here, a cream smock dress. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Fighting the Tide: Holiday Beauty Sales Off to Strong Start By Julie Naughton jitters. And somewhat surprisingly, 2 percent in October, a possible and Matthew W. Evans retailers say some of the biggest indication that fragrance will have a all it a color-me Christmas. gains are coming in color cosmetics, strong Yule. C While the jury has barely turning the conventional wisdom While December once was begun to deliberate, the prestige that holiday is all about fragrance chiefly devoted to fragrance sales, beauty business seems to be on its ear. However, NPD figures that trend is diminishing a bit, with dispelling pre-season holiday indicate that fragrance sales rose See Fragrance, Page 10 PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY the mystery of the sea The sea holds many secrets... anti-aging is one of them. Deep within the oceans of the world are some of the most powerful anti-oxidants and restorative minerals that can help reverse signs of aging. the science of skin La Prairie has developed an exclusive biotechnology that harnesses the natural power of these ocean botanicals on land, without compromising our fragile marine ecosystem. Our exclusive sea-born complex protects, fi rms and restores your skin’s youthful radiance. Like nothing on earth. céline cousteau Born explorer and traveling Cousteau “oceanaut,” this is a woman who truly understands the transformative powers of the sea. Committed spokeswoman for the environment, she works with Ocean Futures Society, a non-profi t organization dedicated to exploring the ocean, inspiring and educating people about ways they can help protect it. In Céline Cousteau, La Prairie has found a naturally perfect partnership to advance the science of sea-born skincare. Together, we can create a wider awareness about ocean sustainability. la prairie and céline cousteau introduce advanced marine biology cream 4 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 7, 2007 WWD.COM Steiner, Greiss Tapped at Rykiel By Robert Murphy plained. “We like to do things our own quirky way. We are one of the only remaining family-owned fash- PARIS — Sonia Rykiel has a new managing director, ion businesses in France. We are 100 percent auto- WWDFRIDAY Beauty a new creative director and revved-up ambitions to fi nanced and we are growing. Our story is unique.” build its business abroad, particularly in the U.S. Sources estimate Rykiel had sales of about 100 François Steiner, 44, former president of Kenzo, million euros, or $147 million at current exchange, FASHION has been appointed the house’s new managing di- last year with an increase in revenues of about 10 Bringing a blast of Gallic chic and punk energy to London, Karl Lagerfeld rector, while Gabrielle Greiss, 34, was promoted percent. The house operates 29 wholly owned bou- 6 staged a blockbuster show of luxury pre-fall ready-to-wear Thursday. to creative director of the fi rst fashion line. Greiss tiques and counts 26 franchised stores. has worked in the studio with house founder Sonia “Our main priority is to grow our business Rykiel for the last two years. in the United States,” said Nathalie Rykiel. GENERAL Steiner, who has also held management jobs at Bloomingdale’s and Intermix are among the While the jury has barely begun to deliberate, the prestige beauty Louis Vuitton and Thomas Pink, reports to Nathalie stores that carry the line in the U.S. It is also sold 1 business seems to be dispelling pre-season holiday jitters. Rykiel, Sonia Rykiel’s daughter the house’s presi- in Rykiel boutiques in Manhattan and Boston. Sonia Rykiel has a new managing director and creative director, and dent and artistic director. He started this fall, but it “We fell asleep in America,” admitted Rykiel. 4 revved-up ambitions to build its business abroad, particularly in the U.S. is only now that his position has been made offi cial. “It’s time for us to wake up.” “We want to build the future,” said Nathalie Rykiel. Nathalie Rykiel said Steiner is crafting a co- Burberry hopes to up the tempo at fragrance counters worldwide in The appointments come as Rykiel prepares to herent strategy for Rykiel in America. She said 8 March when it launches The Beat, its latest scent for women. celebrate its 40th anniversary next year. her daughter, Lola, 22, a trained classical dancer, Retailers are discovering it takes much time and effort to merchandise In January, the house will inaugurate the festivi- was assuming an ambassador role for the brand in 14 exclusive beauty products and take on the role of marketer. ties by unveiling a refurbished and expanded fl ag- New York, where she lives. ship boutique on the Boulevard Saint-Germain, in The changes were prompted after Nathalie Rykiel November same-store sales refl ected a strong start to the holiday the heart of the Left Bank shopping district. last year divorced her husband, Simon Burstein, who 16 season, with department stores posting the biggest gains. Nathalie Rykiel said the company would in- had doubled as house president. (Burstein’s family Classifi ed Advertisements............................................................19 troduce a special capsule collection of “collect- runs the Browns fashion stores in London.) able” pieces, as well as stage a blowout party on Greiss, who trained at Central Saint Martins in To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. the Boulevard Saint-Germain in May. The fete is London, is well-known in fashion circles here, having [email protected], using the individual’s name. scheduled for May 25, which will coincide with worked with Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, Martine Sitbon WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT Sonia Rykiel’s 78th birthday. “We wanted to do and Anna Molinari before joining Rykiel. Though her ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. something atypical — very Rykiel.” touch has been evident since she arrived two years VOLUME 194, NO. 121. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one Meantime, next October, a museum retrospec- ago, she now is expected to amplify her infl uence additional issue in January and December, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October and, November, and three additional issues in February, April, and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance tive of Rykiel’s four decades of style is planned for over Rykiel’s cheeky Left Bank style even more. Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by the fashion museum in the Louvre here. “It will Nathalie Rykiel said Greiss would take a bow Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive be the fi rst time we’ve done a museum show in on the podium — alongside her and her mother Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail France,” said Nathalie Rykiel, who added a docu- — after the upcoming fashion show in Paris. Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return mentary fi lm about the house as well as a literary But she was quick to emphasize her mother is undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: essay on her mother’s style are also in the works. not passing the baton. “Sonia comes to work every SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE “We want to show our individuality,” she ex- morning,” she said. “She is not retiring.” INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Victims in Omaha Shooting Chosen at Random Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA By Georgia Lee There is no industry standard more rigorous since the Sept.
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