Malaga G. Ingles

The Court Of Miracles “Almanzor deployed his great political and military skill in service to Córdoba. His excellent administration and sense of justice allowed al- Andalus to enjoy an extended period of peace and prosperity .” (Chronicle of his times) ÁLAGA A region replete with history since the dawn of time; surprising M and unparalleled geography of awesome beauty; generous rivers and bountiful coasts sheltered by protective mountains of remote rock, regular refuge of proud birds and mythological giants. IBRALFARO In the words of many and the hearts of all, Málaga the loveliest would G be christened the “Coast of Miracles”. For it is a never-ending miracle of And Its Parador fertile soils, rivers and seas, generous providers of rich harvests of fish and plants, of fruits and fecundity. Málaga has seen the incursions of the most cultured and valiant Mediterranean peoples, fierce conquerors sowing new ideas and unquestionable cultures. The Phoenicians came from Tyre to found Malaca during the 11th century B.C., setting up foundries to smelt the metals then so abundant in these lands. Some attribute her name to Malache, a goddess worshiped by those industrious visitors. Some say it comes from the Phoenician expression Malach. They applied the necessary techniques and processes in order to preserve and season with marinades and salting the abundant harvest afforded by the sea and coast. An amazing and rewarding surprise came with the sojourn of the cultured Greek invaders, avid traders, yet generous missionaries of ideas and culture, habits and customs, and systems of social organization. The Greek colonists founded Gibralfaro Castle, which has now been converted into the home of this magnificent Parador. Gibralfaro owes its name to its lighthouse, that extremely useful nocturnal guide for the ships which already frequented these waters, while during the day it would serve as protection against the considerable numbers of pirates. However, when Tyre fell to the Babylonians, the MÁLAGA GIBRALFARO AND ITS PARADOR 1 Phoenician settlement was abandoned. It was not long before another After the break-up of the Caliphate of Córdoba, the kingdom of Málaga aggressive neighbor appeared on the scene. The Málaga of Carthage was was founded under the control of the emirs, and was known as an Earthly expanded to its fullest, and a man-made port constructed to improve Paradise. The ambitious revolts and struggles of the taifas (petty trade. kingdoms) would end up destroying the Muslim empire. The Roman legions also sought to establish themselves in the town, Málaga suffered exceptional violence during the clash in the Axarquía although Phoenician customs and habits would not be abandoned for quite region. At the time, she was a solidly fortified town, her thick walls dotted some time. Irate Rome, arrogant and elegant rival of Carthage, would with 74 towers. Together with the walls of Gibralfaro and the Alcazaba, succeed, not without bitterly fought battles, in driving the enemies out, they totaled the 200 so celebrated by Arab poets. The driving force of the thus allowing them to parade their standards, which would, in the end, Christian armies was definitive, with the presence of the Catholic King, overwhelm virtually the entirely peninsula. determined to destroy one of the last remaining Saracen strongholds. Many were the failed attempts at conquest made by the Christian armies. Even The Roman host would commit the outrages and excesses common in the attack by the fearsome Hernán Pérez del Pulgar was vigorously parried strong and haughty invaders: they enslaved the neighboring peoples, by the governor of the Muslim town, Hamet el Cegrí. sacked and plundered, taking away the precious booty of war. However, Rome was intelligent enough to respect the government of Málaga, which In the end, the inhabitants, besieged by hunger and thirst, were forced was granted the privileged status of “confederate city”, a fact attested to to submit. Valiant Hamet could not witness the handing over of the city. by Pliny himself. The city retained its own laws, freedom and He locked himself inside Gibralfaro Castle, but the surrender was independence, and already a fait accompli. On 18 August 1487 the armies of Ferdinand and even had the privilege Isabel took the town, following three long months of siege. Following the of naming her own conquest, what remained of now Christian Málaga was rebuilt. The magistrates. Her trade former Alcaicería (silk market) was turned into houses, with an area set enjoyed famed aside for the Moorish quarter, according to an agreement which allowed prosperity, exporting converts to remain in the city. minerals, wine, oil and almonds to Rome. During the mid-16th century, Málaga would experience extraordinary Local salted fish and growth. Modest workshops, taverns and shops began to be set up, and pickles were highly there was a resurgence of trade. The salted fish business was booming. appreciated by the The port was expanded, churches and convents multiplied, together with Empire. lovely avenues like Caleta del Marqués. In the mid-19th Later, during the 18th century, poorer quarters would spring up. Land century two bronze reclaimed from the sea was exploited. Atarazanas Tower was pulled down. tablets were discovered Work on the cathedral accelerated considerably. in a place known as Los Tejares. On them were During the reigns of Felipe V de Borbón through Carlos IV, the city inscribed the municipal laws of Salpensa and Malaca, then Municipio Flavio played an active role in defending Spain against the troops of Napoleon Malacitano. It was the emperor Titus himself who granted these municipal I. She would be the second city to rise up against the French, following privileges. Seville. The governor, Teodoro Reding, joined the army of General Castaños. The French remained in the city until 1812. The evangelical doctrine was brought to Málaga by St. James the Greater during the reign of Emperor Claudius. The city would also witness Parador De Gibralfaro and suffer the martyrdoms of Paula and Cyriacus during the rule of Malaca Is Gibralfaro Diocletian. The decline of the empire brought with it barbarian invasions: Swabians, Vandals and Alans arrived on the peninsula in the early years of the 5th century. Numerous towns were overcome and sacked, including T he fortress/palace of Gibralfaro is founded and confounded in Málaga, although she would quickly rebuild. the furthest reaches of history. There are reasonable indications that its construction coincided with the presence of Phoenicians and The Visigoth monarchy held power for two hundred years, until the end Greeks in these environs. However, it would have to await the coming of of the 8th century, at the death of King Rodrigo. He was defeated in the the Arabs to consolidate its majestic and impregnable power. Battle of the Guadalete River by the armies of Tarifa and Muza, not before stopping over in Málaga to occupy the city and port. Abdalajis Valley, Gibralfaro was erected on a large site encircled by two types of towered seven leagues from the city, recalls the name of the first Arab conqueror. walls, well provided with battlements and sheer deep moats impossible to ford. It had two bastions, two hexagons, two squares and two circles. There The long Arab presence would bring to the Iberian Peninsula far greater were four jealously protected access gates and a path protected by two wide glory than pain. The occupation would not be either as fierce or bloody as it walls which extended down to the Alcazaba. has been depicted. Rather than wars, these were conquering adventures which favored tolerant relations between the different peoples. The frontiers One of the four gates, Oriente Tower, was in the largest bastion, and was were porous and permissive, in terms of culture as well as religion. Habits probably the main entrance to this magnificent fortress. The castle’s interior and customs were for the most part shared. The invaders instituted was provided with several cisterns and a generous well of enormous width significant progress in agriculture and irrigation, perfecting water wheels and bottomless depths. At the end of the 9th century, during the reign of and channels. They cultivated the arts and letters, and developed astronomy, Abderramán I, a significant portion of the fortress was remodeled. which was virtually unknown at the time. MÁLAGA GIBRALFARO AND ITS PARADOR 2 Juan de Ovando Santarén, 17th-century Málaga poet, wrote of it thus: “...The Alcazaba sits atop the mountain as if on a throne, and Allah has placed it in lofty spot; its walls and grounds are two; its beacon rises up “...Of towers ten, sublime nobility, from the blessed mount; its towers are close together; its stairs are high three rings of walls away from the crown and the walls well defended...” removed from combat at the weakest point...”. It originally had two gates, 110 main towers, thirty of which were Secular walls of pain and glory, idyllic legendary gardens of excellently built and incomparably magnificent. There was an enviable conspiracies and love affairs. Beyond the main door there is an open area garden which led onto the baths and mosque. And of course it also known as the “prisoners’ yard” (corral de los cautivos), with traces of the enjoyed the deterring protection of the fortress of Gibralfaro. Remains of various caves and dungeons which offered mandatory accommodation to Roman buildings and pottery have been recovered from under its Christian captives. foundations. The walls of this exceptional Parador/palace/fortress have been Following restoration, the palace stands as a unique symbol of Moorish transformed into an amazing balcony with pleasing views of the Málaga Málaga, both sybarite and warrior, faithful, infidel and capable of arrogant coastline from Torremolinos to the La Cala.

Load more