The Court Of Miracles

“Almanzor deployed his great political and military skill in service to Córdoba. His excellent administration and sense of justice allowed al- Andalus to enjoy an extended period of peace and prosperity .”

(Chronicle of his times)

ÁLAGA A region replete with history since the dawn of time; surprising M and unparalleled geography of awesome beauty; generous rivers and bountiful coasts sheltered by protective mountains of remote rock, regular refuge of proud birds and mythological giants.

IBRALFARO In the words of many and the hearts of all, Málaga the loveliest would G be christened the “Coast of Miracles”. For it is a never-ending miracle of And Its Parador fertile soils, rivers and seas, generous providers of rich harvests of fish and plants, of fruits and fecundity. Málaga has seen the incursions of the most cultured and valiant Mediterranean peoples, fierce conquerors sowing new ideas and unquestionable cultures. The Phoenicians came from Tyre to found Malaca during the 11th century B.C., setting up foundries to smelt the metals then so abundant in these lands. Some attribute her name to Malache, a goddess worshiped by those industrious visitors. Some say it comes from the Phoenician expression Malach. They applied the necessary techniques and processes in order to preserve and season with marinades and salting the abundant harvest afforded by the sea and coast.

An amazing and rewarding surprise came with the sojourn of the cultured Greek invaders, avid traders, yet generous missionaries of ideas

and culture, habits and customs, and systems of social organization. The Greek colonists founded Gibralfaro , which has now been converted into the home of this magnificent Parador.

Gibralfaro owes its name to its lighthouse, that extremely useful nocturnal guide for the ships which already frequented these waters, while during the day it would serve as protection against the considerable numbers of pirates. However, when Tyre fell to the Babylonians, the

MÁLAGA GIBRALFARO AND ITS PARADOR 1 Phoenician settlement was abandoned. It was not long before another After the break-up of the Caliphate of Córdoba, the kingdom of Málaga aggressive neighbor appeared on the scene. The Málaga of Carthage was was founded under the control of the emirs, and was known as an Earthly expanded to its fullest, and a man-made port constructed to improve Paradise. The ambitious revolts and struggles of the taifas (petty trade. kingdoms) would end up destroying the Muslim empire.

The Roman legions also sought to establish themselves in the town, Málaga suffered exceptional violence during the clash in the Axarquía although Phoenician customs and habits would not be abandoned for quite region. At the time, she was a solidly fortified town, her thick walls dotted some time. Irate Rome, arrogant and elegant rival of Carthage, would with 74 towers. Together with the walls of Gibralfaro and the Alcazaba, succeed, not without bitterly fought battles, in driving the enemies out, they totaled the 200 so celebrated by Arab poets. The driving force of the thus allowing them to parade their standards, which would, in the end, Christian armies was definitive, with the presence of the Catholic King, overwhelm virtually the entirely peninsula. determined to destroy one of the last remaining Saracen strongholds. Many were the failed attempts at conquest made by the Christian armies. Even The Roman host would commit the outrages and excesses common in the attack by the fearsome Hernán Pérez del Pulgar was vigorously parried strong and haughty invaders: they enslaved the neighboring peoples, by the governor of the Muslim town, Hamet el Cegrí. sacked and plundered, taking away the precious booty of war. However, Rome was intelligent enough to respect the government of Málaga, which In the end, the inhabitants, besieged by hunger and thirst, were forced was granted the privileged status of “confederate city”, a fact attested to to submit. Valiant Hamet could not witness the handing over of the city. by Pliny himself. The city retained its own laws, freedom and He locked himself inside Gibralfaro Castle, but the surrender was independence, and already a fait accompli. On 18 August 1487 the armies of Ferdinand and even had the privilege Isabel took the town, following three long months of . Following the of naming her own conquest, what remained of now Christian Málaga was rebuilt. The magistrates. Her trade former Alcaicería (silk market) was turned into houses, with an area set enjoyed famed aside for the Moorish quarter, according to an agreement which allowed prosperity, exporting converts to remain in the city. minerals, wine, oil and almonds to Rome. During the mid-16th century, Málaga would experience extraordinary Local salted fish and growth. Modest workshops, taverns and shops began to be set up, and pickles were highly there was a resurgence of trade. The salted fish business was booming. appreciated by the The port was expanded, churches and convents multiplied, together with Empire. lovely avenues like Caleta del Marqués.

In the mid-19th Later, during the 18th century, poorer quarters would spring up. Land century two bronze reclaimed from the sea was exploited. Atarazanas Tower was pulled down. tablets were discovered Work on the cathedral accelerated considerably. in a place known as Los Tejares. On them were During the reigns of Felipe V de Borbón through Carlos IV, the city inscribed the municipal laws of Salpensa and Malaca, then Municipio Flavio played an active role in defending against the troops of Napoleon Malacitano. It was the emperor Titus himself who granted these municipal I. She would be the second city to rise up against the French, following privileges. Seville. The governor, Teodoro Reding, joined the army of General Castaños. The French remained in the city until 1812. The evangelical doctrine was brought to Málaga by St. James the Greater during the reign of Emperor Claudius. The city would also witness Parador De Gibralfaro and suffer the martyrdoms of Paula and Cyriacus during the rule of Malaca Is Gibralfaro Diocletian. The decline of the empire brought with it barbarian invasions: Swabians, Vandals and Alans arrived on the peninsula in the early years of the 5th century. Numerous towns were overcome and sacked, including T he fortress/palace of Gibralfaro is founded and confounded in Málaga, although she would quickly rebuild. the furthest reaches of history. There are reasonable indications that its construction coincided with the presence of Phoenicians and The Visigoth monarchy held power for two hundred years, until the end Greeks in these environs. However, it would have to await the coming of of the 8th century, at the death of King Rodrigo. He was defeated in the the to consolidate its majestic and impregnable power. Battle of the Guadalete River by the armies of Tarifa and Muza, not before stopping over in Málaga to occupy the city and port. Abdalajis Valley, Gibralfaro was erected on a large site encircled by two types of towered seven leagues from the city, recalls the name of the first Arab conqueror. walls, well provided with and sheer deep impossible to ford. It had two , two hexagons, two squares and two circles. There The long Arab presence would bring to the Iberian Peninsula far greater were four jealously protected access gates and a path protected by two wide glory than pain. The occupation would not be either as fierce or bloody as it walls which extended down to the Alcazaba. has been depicted. Rather than wars, these were conquering adventures which favored tolerant relations between the different peoples. The frontiers One of the four gates, Oriente Tower, was in the largest , and was were porous and permissive, in terms of culture as well as religion. Habits probably the main entrance to this magnificent fortress. The castle’s interior and customs were for the most part shared. The invaders instituted was provided with several cisterns and a generous well of enormous width significant progress in agriculture and irrigation, perfecting water wheels and bottomless depths. At the end of the 9th century, during the reign of and channels. They cultivated the arts and letters, and developed astronomy, Abderramán I, a significant portion of the fortress was remodeled. which was virtually unknown at the time. MÁLAGA GIBRALFARO AND ITS PARADOR 2 Juan de Ovando Santarén, 17th-century Málaga poet, wrote of it thus: “...The Alcazaba sits atop the mountain as if on a throne, and Allah has placed it in lofty spot; its walls and grounds are two; its beacon rises up “...Of towers ten, sublime nobility, from the blessed mount; its towers are close together; its stairs are high three rings of walls away from the crown and the walls well defended...” removed from combat at the weakest point...”. It originally had two gates, 110 main towers, thirty of which were Secular walls of pain and glory, idyllic legendary gardens of excellently built and incomparably magnificent. There was an enviable conspiracies and love affairs. Beyond the main door there is an open area garden which led onto the baths and . And of course it also known as the “prisoners’ yard” (corral de los cautivos), with traces of the enjoyed the deterring protection of the fortress of Gibralfaro. Remains of various caves and dungeons which offered mandatory accommodation to Roman buildings and pottery have been recovered from under its Christian captives. foundations.

The walls of this exceptional Parador/palace/fortress have been Following restoration, the palace stands as a unique symbol of Moorish transformed into an amazing balcony with pleasing views of the Málaga Málaga, both sybarite and warrior, faithful, infidel and capable of arrogant coastline from Torremolinos to the La Cala. humility. What remains of the palace dates from the 11th century and the Nazarid reconstruction. Still standing is the balcony of an early patio, The former arsenal (atarazana) boasts a unique and magnificent reached through three horseshoe arches adorned with a foliage design. The beauty, and was perhaps the most noble building in Muslim Málaga, a balcony enjoys truly lovely views of the sea and city. These great ruins can statement to which its can testify. It will have been the work of boast of being the best example of the of Al-Andalus prior to Abderramán III. the Almohads, and served as a precedent, the model and origin of Nazarid . The great carved marble gate has been preserved, topped by a slightly pointed , perhaps indicating a vocation for or Model Archeological foreshadowing of the Gothic style. A lovely inset line of stone follows the curve of the horseshoe. Museum

The tympanum features an enigmatic shell which has given rise to a multitude of legends. On both sides of the arch there is an inscription, A doptive child following the reconstruction of the Alcazaba, the perhaps intended to warn the Christian adversary: Archeological Museum has successfully sought to collect the most useful pieces and remains, exceptional witnesses which in and of “Le Galib Ila Allah”, “There is no victor but Allah”. themselves constitute a chair for the study of the city’s development: habits and customs for survival, well-being, myths and rituals; idols and gods; The Alcazaba: arts and artisanship of the sediment and sorrows seeded by successive waves of invaders. The Pre-history Gallery is a deliciously detailed sample Luxury And Lechery of those first forced and stumbling steps of the earliest inhabitants. It contains unique pieces from the pre-Roman period. Of special note is a lovely marble Hellenistic head from the 3rd century B.C., which it seems T he Alcazaba, or castle , was erected atop a promontory, certain shows the features of Epicurus. There are Greek vases and coins, within the populated area, adjoining the coast, and only Egyptian and Punic pieces and a variety of pottery shards. dominated by the castle/palace of Gibralfaro, today’s Parador. In the early 14th century, Ibn el Jatib described it thus:

MÁLAGA GIBRALFARO AND ITS PARADOR 3 In the Roman Gallery the display includes valuable marble statues; requested permission to live in the tower until the end of his days, and so Carthaginian and Roman pottery; steles; clay, stone, bronze, terracotta he did. If the pious visitor has time enough, we recommend a satisfying and glass objects; and coins, among other things. There is an exceptional visit to some of the many chapels. collection of gravestones and what is left of the traces of the passing of Churches Devotions And Christians, Visigoths, Muslims and Mozarabs in the Epigrafía Gallery. The Granada Rooms display sublime pieces of Islamic pottery, found at several Prayer Books excavations.

The Alcazaba’s gardens are dotted with larger pieces: the Iberian figure T he image of Santa María de la Victoria, patron of the city, was a of a boar, inscriptions, amphorae, vases, marble pieces and bones. present given to the Catholic Monarchs at the behest of Maximilian, Archduke of Austria. Chronicles tell of legends that this same image appeared to King Fernando in dreams, holding the palm of victory in her right hand. The dream proved to be a premonitory revelation: the siege of the city gathered strength and after a few days Muslim Málaga was turned over to the Christian armies.

“...The monarchs with whom he came, after defeating the Moor, by virtue of his merits, recognizing his nobility spoils gave to him.”

Santiago Church was founded by the Catholic Monarchs and completed in the mid- 16th century. It boasts a slender Mudejar tower, topped by a Renaissance . The interior of the temple is surrounded by devout chapels. Atop the high altar shines a large 18th- century altarpiece.

Also worthy of a visit are at least some of the many churches: Los Mártires, San Juan, San Pablo, among others. The Cathedral: Burning Brilliance Beaux Arts Museum And Picasso Museum

A heroic and mystical temple is this basilica of imponderable M álaga’s fine arts museum is amongst the most valuable and slenderness. It was erected near the site occupied by the already complete. We need do little more than name a few of the ancient mosque, consecrated for Catholic worship following the noteworthy artists to assert its value and prestige: Zurbaran, Ribera, Reconquest, and christened Santa María de la Encarnación. It was Murillo, Luis Morales el Divino, Francisco de Herrera el Viejo, Luca conceived as a cathedral with Greco-Roman features, and the Giordano, and Alonso Cano. embellishments of the Corinthian order. Construction was begun during the most outstanding period of the Renaissance. However, the process was After a lengthy arduous yet ardent process plagued by failures, the a prolonged one – and not without uncertainty – as was normal for the longed-for museum was born in 2003, housed in Buenavista Palace, a monumental structures built between the second half of the 17th century 16th-century Renaissance building in an area once occupied by the Jewish and the early 18th. The mystic yearnings of Málaga were so ancient that quarter. It was a long journey, filled with obstacles due to the artistic it was a Catholic and Episcopal city from the earliest dawn of genius’s declared Communist ideology. Finally, thanks to the determined Christianity. decision of the autonomous government of Andalusia and largesse of Christine and Bernard Ruiz Picasso, with the donation of a goodly number The presence of the best architect of Toledo was requested, and he of pieces, the museum now holds the position it always sought. bestowed his approval upon the plans drawn by the prestigious Diego de Siloe. Nevertheless, it was necessary to halt construction due to The rooms are many and varied: screening room, spacious auditorium insufficient resources. The three doors of the main façade lead to an and a huge book store with publications on the artist’s work. The library extremely broad marble staircase. A tower of self-assured grandeur rises and document center, devoted exclusively to research, occupy three stories. one hundred meters on the façade. The painting collection is hung on the two floors of the main building, You would do well to make a leisurely and rewarding visit to the in a group of a dozen galleries. In total, some two hundred and fifty works building, such is its interior richness. Of particular interest is the choir, have been gathered here: paintings, drawings, pottery and sculptures. With with carved stalls in American woods such as mahogany and cedar, the the exception of Paris, this is the most important Picasso museum in the work of Pedro de Mena, Alonso Cano and others. The two organs of world in terms of the number of works, and the one which most envious musicality are the work of the master organ maker of Cuenca Cathedral, Julián de la Orden. So proud was the bell-maker that he MÁLAGA GIBRALFARO AND ITS PARADOR 4 extensively and best shows the different periods and artistic but never the same. The area abounds with its own products from the sea preoccupations which made up his difficult career. and coast. Fritura Malagueña, a mixed fish fry, allows for a surprising number of varieties. You will find Anchovies, Fried or With Vinegar, In a certain fashion, the exhibition follows the path of Picasso’s life, Clams and Cazón en Adobo (dogfish which has been marinated, from his first juvenile dabbling, childlike even to the end of his life in floured and fried). There are a variety of Seafood Soups, including 1973. Malagueña, prepared using some of these fish and just the right amount of dry sherry. The works which may be admired by visitors are as numerous as they are valuable: Girl and Her Doll and Woman with Mantilla, both from the The region’s garden produce is also generous and varied, and always late 19th century; Mother and Child (1922) with classical elements; and just right. There are Figs, Pears, Almonds and relatively exotic fruits the masterful Head of Man, from 1972. You will also find Olga Kokhlova such as Custard Apples and Avocados. These make way for cold dishes with Mantilla, from 1917; Woman in an Armchair, from 1946; Still Life such as Gazpacho, or better said, Gazpachos, each with its own origins. with Guitar on a Circular Table, from 1922; and Still Life with Skull, Porra Antequerana is perhaps the most hearty variation. The delicious from 1947. and always surprising Ajoblanco comes alone, provided that it does not lack the necessary almonds or contain too much vinegar. There is also The museum also organizes periodic workshops for aspiring child Avocado Gazpacho. From the farmyard come excellent quality meats: artists, lectures on the life and figure of Picasso, temporary exhibitions Pork, Chicken and Rabbit, as well as Kid and Quail.

The wines come from the best vineyards on the peninsula, made using Muscatel and Pedro Ximénez grapes. There are also delicacies to take home with you: Cured Ham, Green Goat’s Milk Cheese, Cold Meats and Sausages from the mountains, Fig Cake, Almonds, olives, Dried Peaches or Apricots, Quince Paste, Honey, and much more.

Routes Through Enchanted Mysteries

I n these unique lands, travelers will no doubt enjoy visiting exceptional witnesses to the passing of invaders and tolerant attitudes, heroic gestures and cultures which were sometimes contradictory, yet frequently symbiotic. They suffer yet enjoy art, religion, music and literature, customs and habits of wise porosity and symbiosis.

Haughty And Humble Monasteries

This curious getaway crosses Cadiz and Málaga, descending towards Gibraltar, just where the battle of the straits was fought. and more. The Picasso Museum is required viewing and a rewarding Olvera is white and medieval. At the highest point the church and what obligation. remains of the castle still stand. Close to Alcalá del Valle there are the ruins of what was a 15th-century Franciscan convent. All-powerful Ronda Of Fish has successfully preserved sufficient portions of its walls. Gaucín, Castellar and Jimena rise like crests atop their respective hills. Nearby And Other Delicacies stand the remains of Almoraima Convent, from the 16th century. In Tarifa, opposite Africa, is the 11th-century castle of Guzmán el Bueno. It still seeks to recite the tale of legendary heroics, a defense of the town at the cost of his I t is well known that the majority of local tables and pots son’s life. disseminate, distribute and divide stews and dishes which are alike, or at least similar, although difficult to equal. These waters offer an Gothic, yet Mudejar abundant variety of species: Hake, Sardines, Whitebait, Clams, Red Mullet, Gurnard, King Prawns, Sole, and above all, fresh In addition to the Mudejar monuments which travelers will already have Anchovies. discovered, the mountains of Ronda invite you to visit the Gothic parish churches of Cartama, Ardales, El Burgo and Parauta, or the hospitals You will find no restaurant whose stars allow it to renounce the of San Juan de Dios and Bazan in Marbella, and San Andrés in Coín. presence of the Anchovy, or open-air bar where it will not be found. Custom is in fact the rule: “First anchovies, then whatever else is Along the road to the Axarquía region, there is an important group of required.” Mudejar churches: Almanchar, El Bosque, Cutar, Comares and Benamargosa. Vélez-Málaga is the epicenter of this route. Must-sees In any event, travelers will be sated and satisfied anywhere in these include Santa María Church and the Mudejar elements still found at surprising lands. You will note that the names of dishes will often be 5 common or coincide: these are similar variants, with a common essence, MÁLAGA GIBRALFARO AND ITS PARADOR Santa Clara y Santa María Convent. Invented Romanticism

Late Renaissance It is said the romanticism chose Andalusia and reinvented it. There is any variety of reasons: multicolored landscapes, hidden and surprising The long Muslim presence, which lasted until the 15th century, the paths, her mysterious ruins, the Arab lines of her cities and villages. These influence of its architecture and the assuredness of the Mudejar master were more than enough to quench the thirst for adventure of those builders checked the coming of classicism. Even so, there are still sufficient adventurous travelers from the most eminent lands of Europe. In Málaga sites of interest: the collegiate church of Santa María la Mayor in the orphans of her small English colony missed the scent of the almond , and Málaga Cathedral, the result of a fruitful collaboration tree and honeysuckle, and the singsong voice of her speech and thoughts: between the illustrious architects Egas and Pedro López, although it would Marbella, Caleburra Point, Estepona and other eternally cheerful be Siloé who would put the finishing touches on the work. places.

The Baroque: sublime religiosity The Adventure of the Discovery

This Baroque stands out for the great variety of materials used: stone, The town of Trastierra was the birthplace of Beatriz de Arana, a lady brick, plaster and whitewashed masonry. Together with the buildings in who was more than just close to the Admiral, and mother of Hernando the capital, already well-known to visitors, there are other noteworthy Colón, erudite biographer of his illustrious father. In times of poverty, she examples throughout the province. In Churriana (Finca del Retiro) lies lived in the capital, perhaps to escape her moments of glory and pain, of the most ostentatious private garden in Andalusia. Heading towards the which there were not a few. These included San Agustín Convent and the mountains, in Cartama you can visit Remedios Chapel, and in Coín, the mosque/cathedral, apparently, the building most admired by the Admiral. parish church and shrine of La Fuensanta. And it is here in fact that the Inca Garcilaso was laid to rest, symbol of the blending of American and Spanish cultures. Ronda, in addition to its religious architecture, with many churches and convents, boasts important civil structures, including the New Bridge To the south of Málaga we come to the mouth of the Guadalhorce (Puente Nuevo) and Bullring (Plaza de Toros), the House of the Moorish River, a rest spot for tourists hungering for the sun, and way station for King (Casa del Rey Moro) and the palace of the Marquis of Salvatierra. migratory birds. This area grows sugar cane and other tropical fruits. The Antequera is a city of Baroque convents, with numerous examples: excursion seems made to order for ecologists and naturalists, offering an Carmen, Loreto, San José and Belén, and brick towers such as those at easy opportunity to observe numerous flocks of water birds. Fuente de San Sebastián Collegiate Church or San Agustín. Piedra is the largest remaining lagoon in the Andalusian wetlands. Its salt water is crucial for nesting Flamingos. It is also visited by the Gull- In Archidona, key sites include the eight-sided square, Pósito Billed tern and Cinnamon Teal. (granary) and several churches. Vélez-Málaga is another important Baroque location, whose churches include that of the Discalced Carmelites Also interesting is the wetland area of Campillo. The route ends at (Carmelitas Descalzas), San Francisco and others. Medina Lagoon, the summer nesting grounds of the White-Headed Duck, Camaleón and Red-Knobbed Coot. In winter there appear great flocks of birds.

Parador de Málaga Gibralfaro

Castillo de Gibralfaro, s/n. 29016 Málaga Tel.: 95 222 19 02 - Fax: 95 222 19 04 e-mail: [email protected] Central Reservation Office Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid (España) Tel.: 902 547 979 - Fax: 902 525 432 www.parador.es / e-mail: [email protected] wap.parador.es/wap/

Textos: Juan G. D’Atri y Miguel García Sánchez Dibujos: Fernando Aznar

MÁLAGA GIBRALFARO AND ITS PARADOR 6