The Route of the Caliphate runs between Córdoba and GASTRONOMY The Route of the Caliphate along the N-432 and N-331 approximately 180 km (112 miles). On the way, it crosses the OLIVE OIL Guadalquivir valley, the sierras and It runs between the two most the fertile plains of Granada he olive tree and important towns of Hispano- olive oil –symbols of peace, prosperity Muslim history, Córdoba and T and knowledge – are Granada, including the frontier substantial elements of area of Jaén. Two great towns the people who live on and two great centuries. the shores of the Mediterranean, birthplace of civilizations that marked Córdoba's consequence was long periods of history. There are signs of this precious world-wide and Granada's was one of refinement greeny-gold liquid squeezed from olives all along this and drama. These are the two extremes on either route. It is a vital activity in the area, where the abundant production comes under the designation of origin of oil side of the immense cultural, political and social from Baena and Priego and provides the opportunity for heritage of al-Andalus, a civilization with unique and tasting some of the best varieties in the world.

unrepeatable features. Between both, there is a land

e p o r u E f o l i c n u o C e h t f o e t u o R l a r u t l u of legends, garrisons, and , of FOOD C remarkable towns, people and customs. Two large here are

geographical depressions are connected in the Route marinades,

a d a n a r G o t a b o d r ó C m o r of the Caliphate –Guadalquivir and Granada– linked Tdifferent salad F

by the valleys across the southern sierras. There are dressings, stews made

with ancient recipes, all

two mountain ranges, Sierra Morena in the province along the way. Local e t a h p i l a of Córdoba and Sierra Nevada in the province of cooking has tried not to forget its cultural heritage and C

Granada. During the reigns of the Umayyad caliphs, quite a few of the recipes have been rediscovered in old

Moorish and Hebrew manuscripts. Among the favourite the territory that lies along this route was included in e h t f o e t u o dishes, we have salmorejo (a slightly different and R three provinces coras : Córdoba, Cabra and Ilbira. creamier version of gazpacho ), artichokes a la , All three were part of the splendor of the Caliphate oxtail or flamenquines . For dessert, one should try pastel in Córdoba, which was the most brilliant center of cordobés or suspiros de Almanzor (sighs of Almanzor of Córdoba). learning in the western world at that time. Here was the scenery of the adventures and episodes sung in medieval Spanish romances. WINE he area of Montilla-Moriles in Tthe province of Córdoba produces some excellent wines: finos , oloroso , amontillado and dulces , made from Pedro Ximénez grapes, which are widespread throughout the area. They are delicious with various kinds of sausages, as well as with deserts. There are also a few smaller wine-producing Information Points ROUTES AND DISTANCES HANDICRAFTS The legacy of al-Andalus he journey between Córdoba and Granada is more he province of Córdoba CÓRDOBA MONTEMAYOR MOCLÍN FROM THE TO THE Centro de Recepción de Casa de la Cultura. Oficina Municipal de or less 180 km (112 miles) long. Starting in –an empty niche that indicated the direction of can still boast the highest Visitantes de la Junta de Calle Juan Pedro Carmona, 6. Información Turística. Torre he went through one of the Córdoba, it splits in two: the main he mosque was the core of daily life in Hispano- prayers. The principal mosque or aljama was situated in number of artisans in an Andalucía. Tel. 957 375 458 Puerta (Fortaleza de Moclín). T T Plaza del Triunfo s/n. Tel. 611 429 789 northwards along the road N-432 in the direction of Muslim cities. Prayer, teaching, administration of the centre of the town and of its trading quarter, the age when both workshops and Tel. 957 355 179 - 902 201 744 MONTILLA most privileged periods in its history during Baena and other towns, follows the more popular and justice and social relations all went on inside or medina . Not far, were the or college of trades are fast disappearing. The Oficina de Turismo. the Muslim era, which resulted in a brilliant T Punto de Información Turística. Calle Capitán Alonso de Ayuntamiento. alcaicería T traditional route from the Guadalquivir valley towards around the mosque. There were three distinct elements: Mohammedan studies and the –a series of lanes quality of cordovan work Estación AVE-RENFE-ADIF Vargas, 3. Avenida Virgen de la Cabeza, 9. civilization. During this time, Andalusia became the Granada. The southern route winds along N-331 and tower, courtyard and hall of prayer. The muezzin called the with shops that offered the most valuable wares. The (leather) and pottery was Glorieta de las Tres Culturas, s/n Tel. 957 652354 Tel. 958 387 011 Tel. 902 201 774 cultural centre of Europe and the link between East other roads, through various towns, such as Lucena and faithful to prayer from the tower or . Ritual mosque in Córdoba is the foremost example of Andalusi already praised in times of and one is able AGUILAR DE LA FRONTERA shan Patronato Provincial de Ayuntamiento. and West. Priego. Both ways join up again at Alcalá la , from ablutions were carried out in the courtyard or . The . Apart from these religious and civilian buildings, to find fine examples today. Jewellers are particularly Turismo de Córdoba. Oficina de Turismo. Calle Real, 121. there through Moclín to Pinos Puente and other towns in hall of prayer, or , was an open there were the (fortresses) and alcázares . They flourishing nowadays in Córdoba, with goldsmiths and Calle Imágenes, 15. Plaza de San José, 1. Tel. 958 450 136 Tel. 957 491 677 Tel. 957 688 203 the plains of Granada, till the outskirts of the Nasrid rectangular space, leading to a were fortified which, apart from providing the silversmiths, as well as setters and engravers who GÜEVÉJAR The Routes of “El legado andalusí” go through LUCENA capital are finally reached. wall, al- , facing military elements, also contained the palatial quarters of produce some very attractive pieces. Various villages Consorcio de Turismo de Ayuntamiento. those paths which connected the kingdom of Córdoba. Punto de Oficina de Información Turística. Plaza de la Constitución, 7. . In the the rulers. along the way also have pottery, wood-work and Información Turística. Palacio de los Condes de Tel. 958 428 001 Granada with the rest of al-Andalus in the past. middle of that The Alhambra is an exceptional example of this wrought-iron workshops that are well worth visiting. Plaza de las Tendillas, s/n. Santa Ana. Tel. 902 201 774 Calle San Pedro, 42. COGOLLOS VEGA Along this itinerary travellers have the possibility of wall was the type of fortified . Tel. 957 513 282 Ayuntamiento. ESPEJO Plaza del Mercado s/n. CABRA enjoying wonderful landscapes on a quiet journey, LANDSCAPE Ayuntamiento. Tel. 958 409 161 Plaza de la Constitución, 5. Oficina Municipal de Turismo. tasting exquisite dishes and giving free rein to their TRADITIONAL FEASTS Tel. 957 376 001 Calle Mayor s/n. his route includes several most remarkable Tel 957 523 493 Ayuntamiento. CASTRO DEL RÍO imagination by turning past events into a present landscapes, such as Sierras Subbéticas Cordobesas here is a full calendar of feasts along the Route of Plaza de la Iglesia, 1. Reproduction of a Punto de Información CARCABUEY Tel. 958 543 002 experience. Natural Park with the main rocky outcrops in this mosque, like many the Caliphate throughout the year. Cruces de Mayo Turística (Ayuntamiento). Oficina de Turismo. T of those found El Mirador de la Artesanía. Calle Majadilla, 1. VÍZNAR area: La Tiñosa, Pico Bermejo, Lobatejo and El Picacho are famous in Córdoba, and so is Corpus Christi in along this route T Tel. 957 943 081 Tel. 957 704 140 Ayuntamiento. peaks. Further along the way there are Sierra de Moclín from Andalusi Granada; and then each village or hamlet has its own Plaza de la Constitución, 5. BAENA PRIEGO DE CÓRDOBA times. Cristo del Paño Tel. 958 543 304 and Sierra Elvira and the Natural Park of Sierra de feast, such as the original celebration of in Oficina Municipal de Turismo. Oficina Municipal de Turismo. Huétor, that appear to act as the advance guard to the Moclín, the pilgrimages of Nuestra Señora de la Sierra in Calle Virrey del Pino, 5. Plaza de la Constitución,3. GRANADA Corral del Carbón. Granada, . Tel. 957 671 757 Tel. 957 700 625 Oficina de Turismo de la Junta northern slopes of Sierra Nevada. Cabra and that of Nuestra Señora de Araceli in Lucena, de Andalucía. Headquarters of El legado andalusí Andalusian Public Foundation. ZUHEROS ALCAUDETE without forgetting the processions of coliblancos and Plaza Nueva. Santa Ana, 4. Oficina de Información Oficina Municipal de Turismo. Tel. 958 575 202 colinegros during the Holy Week in Baena, as seen in the Turística. Plaza de Sta. María s/n. illustration. Plaza de la Paz, 2. Tel. 953 560 304 Oficina de Información Three examples of Tel. 957 694 545 Turística del Patronato CASTILLO DE LOCUBÍN Provincial. Hispano-Muslim art, LUQUE which may be visited Ayuntamiento. Calle Cárcel Baja 3. along this route: Ayuntamiento. Calle Blas Infante, 19. Tel. 958 247 128 Madinat al-Zahra above, Plaza de España, 11. Tel. 953 591 364 the Mosque in Córdoba Tel. 957 667 300 Oficina Municipal de ALCALÁ LA REAL Información Turística. and the Alhambra in FERNÁN NÚÑEZ Granada. Oficina Municipal de Turismo. Ayuntamiento de Granada. Centro de Participación Carrera de las Mercedes s/n. Plaza del Carmen s/n. Ciudadana (Punto de Tel. 953 582 077 Tel. 958 248 280 Información Turística). Calle Miguel Hernández, 9. Tel. 957 382 124

Detail of the area of the Royal Palace in the Fundación Pública Andaluza Alhambra of El legado andalusí Granada. Calle Mariana Pineda s/n. Corral del Carbón. 18009 Granada, Spain. Telephone: +34 958 225 995. www.legadoandalusi.es - www.rutas.legadoandalusi.es - [email protected]. Follow us on Facebook and Twitter: legadoandalusi Juan de Ávila and the palace of the dukes of Medinaceli. that was later reformed by the Christians, the Barrio de la Villa towers –Campana, Mocha and Del Homenaje ()–, around CÓRDOBA Montilla is famed above all for its wines that carry their own (La Villa quarter), the original centre of Priego with Moorish ZUHEROS the courtyard and is the old military quarters of the Muslim COGOLLOS VEGA designation of origin and some of its bodegas (wine cellars) may and medieval features, the Alfar building (potter’s workshop) town. Large rocks form part of the walls and there are On the banks of be visited. The grape gathering festivities are held at the end of where pottery is made and several watchtowers in the vicinity. This is a Moorish town at the foot of a rocky range, from where altogether seven doors, leading downwards to the village. Another farmstead in the area of the plains of Granada. There the Guadalquivir, August - beginning of September, during which the grapes are Other monuments are the late Gothic church of La Asunción, it has its name Suhayra , which means rock in . The 9th c. The abbey church Santa María la Mayor on one of the 's are some Moorish baths in the southern part of the hamlet, this is a lively pressed in the old way. The wines include fino (similar to ), dating from the 16th c., restored later in the 18th c. to a castle is perched on top of one of these enormous rocks. Not far esplanades, is a mixture of renaissance and . which has splendid views, being located in Sierra de Huétor, town, the amontillado (dark golden colour and strong aroma) and oloroso baroque model; as well as the churches of La Aurora and San is La Cueva de Remains of the first gothic church have been discovered in the where trekking, climbing and hang-gliding are possible. provincial capital (matured white wine that can become quite strong). Francisco. Fuente del Rey is a characteristic feature of the town los Murciélagos nave, as well as tombs and crypts and two Roman wells. What city that provides and a National Monument. There are some pleasant excursions (cave of bats) used to be the mosque is nowadays the church of Santo the usual AGUILAR DE LA FRONTERA near Priego, the road to Las Lagunillas for example, at the foot with cave Domingo de Silos, begun in 1341, subsequently reformed by infrastructure and of Sierra Horconera, leading to La Tiñosa, highest spot in the paintings and an Maximilian of Austria. The Archaeological Museum, settled in utilities, as well as This town was a municipality already under the Romans. province (1,570 m. asl), to El Cerezo and to the Pico Bermejo outstanding the historical town, is housed in the Palacio Abacial (abbatial overseeing During the Moorish occupation, it became known due to the gullies. A typical dish in Priego is ajo blanco and meatballs made vantage point palace). The feast of the patron saint, Santo Domingo, is agricultural Muwallad (Spaniard who adopted the Muslim religion) with fresh anchovies. over this celebrated on 20th December in memory of of Alfonso XI's production – rebellion of Omar ibn Hafsun in the 9th c. Right on the road extraordinary conquest of Arrabal Viejo. On 15th August, feast of the particularly olive from Málaga to Córdoba, it landscape. Assumption, there is a procession with 12,000 lighted torches. groves and became an important fortress vineyards. History town and remained so until the ESPEJO LUQUE shows that it was end of the . Of its COLOMERA the centre of Andalusi past, there are bits of The outline of its castle on Right in the middle of learning and knowledge. It was already of some importance walls and towers on the hill top of a hill can be seen the Sierras Subbéticas Only 25 km (15.5 miles) from Granada, located ALFACAR under the Romans; it was where the philosopher Seneca and over the village, known as from some way off, Natural Environment, among pastures, this old Roman settlement was the poet Lucan were born and it was the capital of Peñón del Moro. The village overlooking the valley of the the inevitable castle known as Columbarium . In the times of the , This was the place chosen by the Zirid Ulterior . It became the capital of the , where square of San José is one of Guadajoz river. There are stands out, built by it was a farmstead known as Qulunbayra , and only kings for their leisure. It lies in the the people of three different cultural traditions –, the few polygonal squares in Spain. quite a few Iberian and Mohammed I in the 9th little remains of the old fortress. It was taken mountainous depression to the North and Mozarabes– lived peacefully together and contributed to Roman remains in the area. c., and rebuilt by the by Ferdinand and Isabella in 1486. of Granada, 915 m. asl. In the 10th c. the recovery of the classical culture of ancient Greece and LUCENA The thick powerful walls Nasrids in the 13th c. The church of La Encarnación was it was mentioned as "the potter's hamlet" retrieved it for Europe through its scholars, such as Averroes were put up by the Caliphs The parish church built at the beginning of the 16th c. or "the clay hamlet". In the 14th and and Maimonides. Under Abd al-Rahman III, Córdoba became The first mention of this town goes back to of Córdoba. The parish started out Gothic and and is a goodly mixture of Gothic, 15th centuries it is mentioned by Ibn the centre of civilization, a bridge between east and west. Such the 9th c. to the effect that it was inhabited church of San Bartolomé is ended up being renaissance and mudejar. Nearby are Battuta and Ibn al-Khatib. There are a dazzling past has left its mark in wonderful buildings. The by Jews. Held by the Almoravids, it was quite interesting, and so is the large house of the Dukes of Renaissance. A popular a Roman bridge and a necropolis. many flour mills and numerous bakeries Mosque, one of the most remarkable works of art of all times, economically prosperous and culturally Osuna. It is possible to find excellent and traditional dish in this area is still exist. Its fame is due to the bread Heritage of Humanity, represents the essence of a city that advanced. The parish church of San confectionery in some of the bakeries, such as mostachones or stewed kid. baked there, to the quality of the water and to its attractive receives visitors with open arms. Not far, are the remarkable Mateo, a National Monument, is possibly cuajados . location. ruins of the palatine town Madinat al-Zahra. the original mosque that, in turn, might ALCAUDETE MOCLÍN have been built over a . The CASTRO DEL RÍO reformed castle stands in the Plaza Nueva This town is in the countryside This used to be an important location in the defensive system VÍZNAR and is famous for having served as a prison Its history goes hand in hand with the castle, which is of the province of Jaén, along one of the branches followed by the Route of the FERNÁN NÚÑEZ for Boabdil, last monarch of the Nasrid a common feature of "frontier" villages (the frontier surrounded by olive trees, Caliphate. During the 14th and 15th centuries its history kingdom of Granada, captured at the battle between Muslim and Christian territories). The orchards and vineyards. It was consisted of a series of conquests, reconquests, exchanges and This hamlet was originally created when This medieval town dates from the latter half of the 14th c. It of Lucena. origins are suspected to be pre-Roman; there are a Visigoth settlement when truces. The castle, from Nasrid times, has two clearly distinct the engineering works were carried out owes its name to one of the beneficiaries of the distribution of a few remains of the old wall that used to Tarik took it in the year 715 areas. The first is in a better state of repair than the others and for taking water from Fuente de land following the Christian conquest. It became quite well- surround the highest part of the Barrio de and the Muslims settled around now consists of an access tower. The second area is the citadel. Aynadamar along a to the known in the 17th c. as a result of the enlightened minds of the CABRA la Villa. The front of La Asunción church is a Roman tower. Centuries later, the principal church of Santa In the lower part of the first area we find the Church of Cristo Albayzín quarter in Granada, under the local lords. The ducal palace, begun in 1783, is worthy of note; plateresque, eroded by the passing of time. María was built not far away, and it is an interesting catalogue de El Paño, founded by the Catholic Kings and the renaissance Nasrid dynasty. The ditch is still extant, it still has some remains of the medieval fortress that was the This is an area where the The local Fair of Santiago is held between of superimposed styles. There are many excursions to be Casa del Pósito (granary). There are various pleasant excursions having undergone some slight changes. origin of the town. The parish church of Santa Marina de largest number of 25th and 27th July and it also includes the enjoyed in the area, such as to the neo-Gothic cemetery, the to be made in the vicinity to outlying watchtowers within the The Palace and the Church of El Aguas Santas is a magnificent example of baroque architecture, archaeological sites have pilgrimage of Nuestra Señora of La Salud hermitages nearby, Parador del Conde, park of La Fuensanta defense system, such as Torre de la Porqueriza, some 3 km (1.8 Cuzco, dating from 18th c. stand out. built around a 14th c. tower. The local festivities revolve around been found in the province of and the Cattle Fair. and the rivers San Juan and Víboras. miles) away, Torre de Mingoandrés on the hill of the same 18th July and the Feria Real (royal fair) is held in August. Córdoba, with remains that name and Torre de la Solana. Main road 432 through Tiena, go as far back as the CASTILLO DE LOCUBÍN upwards towards Moclín, offers a wide view of Sierra Nevada, Paleolithic Age. The castle of BAENA La Almijara, Harana and the fertile plains of Granada. There GRANADA the Counts of Cabra was first From Hisn al Uqbin , there are still are also prehistoric remains near Cueva del Malalmuerzo , Corcuela a Roman fortress and This town seems to be a compendium of Andalusian history some visible remains of Las and Tózar . Its privileged location afterwards, Moorish. The since pre-Roman times. The place-name Bayyana comes from Águilas castle at a place known between the Mediterranean parish church, which has the Hispano-Roman owner of the villa, someone called Baius . as La Villeta, consisting of a coast and the upper forty-four red marble On arrival of the Muslims in the 8th c. this was an active group of white houses from Guadalquivir river, between columns, was built over the old mosque. The source of the military, administrative and agricultural centre. The old part where there is a wide view over the East coast and southern Cabra river is not far away. called Almedina, still has an Oriental air. The castle was begun the countryside. From here there Andalusia, crossroads of in the 9th c. and enlarged during the Caliphate and the are excursions to Encinahermosa, historical paths, its unique CARCABUEY Christian conquest. Subsequently it became the summer palace that has some Ibero-Roman landscape, the contrast for the lords of Baena who in the 16th c. were great patrons remains; a horse or a bicycle ride between the peaks of Sierra Settled in the limits of the and, therefore, responsible for the town's most outstanding will lead you to Ventas del Nevada and the subtropical Subbeticas mountain ranges, this buildings. The church of Santa María la Mayor is flamboyant Carrizal among orchards, poplars and farm houses, to Sierra de environment of the coastal town from Córdoba has been Gothic and there are references to it in the 12th c. when it was la Martina and to the source of the San Juan river. regions, have joined the MONTEMAYOR marked by the passage of a mosque before being turned into a Christian church in the successive civilizations in numerous civilizations due to its 14th c. Nowadays, it is a delightful building with three splendid order to shape the modern This is a fortress town condition of frontier town. façades and some lovely chapels. It was reformed after the ALCALÁ LA REAL PINOS PUENTE city of Granada. with a view over low Karkabul , the ancient Arab earthquake of 1681. Another remarkable building is the church It is the end of the Route of the Caliphate and the common cultivated countryside. designation that means mountain of the convent of the Dominican nuns dating from the 16th c. This is a village with an essentially Andalusi history. The first Its origins are related to the Ibero- destiny to all the routes of El legado andalusí. Being the capital It may well have pass, is towered by the parish that contains marble statues, carved frameworks and paintings part of its name, as of many other towns, comes from the Roman town of Illurco , nearby. It of the last of the Muslim kingdoms in the Iberian Peninsula, the existed in the year church of La Asunción and by a medieval castle. It offers the such as one by Zurbarán, another by Sánchez Coello and two Arabic , which means fortified settlement. It was a frontier has always been mentioned as the patrimony of Granada encloses the memory of eight-centuries 2000 BC, though the visitor many alternatives for enjoyment, such as its by Bassano. El Coso square is a pleasing composition and a town, key to the valley of the Guadalquivir and to the fertile provider of farm produce to of Hispano-Muslim civilization inside the Alhambra palaces, a actual settlement dates gastronomy and festivities. good example of the old part of the town, that is also the centre plains of Granada and its has a key right in the Granada. It is known for being the civilization that is unique for its distinctive features and from 1340, built of a large area of olive groves that produce an excellent type of middle. It was known to the Iberians and Romans and the place to which Columbus returned constitutes one of the most valued treasures of mankind. around a medieval virgin oil under its designation of origin; a visit to the Moors lived there for more than six hundred years, during when he was recalled by Queen Granada captivates the visitor through the enchantment castle. The church of PRIEGO DE CÓRDOBA installations of Núñez de Prado Olive Oil and its traditional which it grew around the fortress. A high point in Alcalá's Isabella when he was already on irradiated by the palace fortress of La Alhambra, quarters with La Asunción is a blend of Gothic and Mudejar, plus later press is quite interesting. Holy Week is a popular feast, with its Andalusi past was reached in the 12th c.; it changed hands his way to offer his services in an indelible andalusi stamp such as the Albayzin, a wonderful reforms. There are several hermitages in the neighbourhood, Throughout history, this town has always been important processions of judíos coliblancos and judíos colinegros (white and frequently before finally falling into Christian hands. It was France. The bridge at Pinos is a framework of walls, carmenes (andalusi courtyards), palaces and as well as the remains of the castle of Dos Hermanas, strategically. The historian Ibn al-Khatib stated that in 745 the black-tailed Jews). The former also participate in the from here that the Catholic Monarchs –Ferdinand and Visigoth construction dating from ancient mosques, along with a fabulous and amazing repertory originally Moorish. Egyptian soldiers who had entered the Peninsula settled in Bago pilgrimage of La Virgen Blanca de la Alegría at the end of Isabella– rode out in order to receive the keys upon the the 7th c. –one of the few still of monuments of all kind, such as the Cathedral, the Royal and built fortresses among the high surrounding hills. Bagub , June. surrender of Granada. Alcalá was the principal fortress on the extant. There are several good Chapel, the Madrasa, Corral del Carbón, Cartuja … the Arabic name for Priego, probably grew out of one of these frontier, connected to the castles of Alcaudete and Locubín, as bicycle rides in the area. MONTILLA fortresses. In the year 889 it became the centre of operations well as to a series of watchtowers, most of which are still for Ibn Mastana, one of the leaders of the Muwallad revolt, visible. La Mota fortress has two distinct spaces, the or The village and castle of Montilla was awarded as a suzerainty in who proclaimed himself lord of Priego and Luque. The town citadel and the abbey church. The former consists of three 1257 by Alfonso X. In 1508 Ferdinand the Catholic ordered that was finally conquered by Alfonso XI and it was not until 1502 GÜEVÉJAR it should be torn down and part of the remains were used to when real progress began and a great many buildings were put begin building the church of Santiago. The church of La up. From its Andalusi past there are, among others, the castle Mention of this locality goes back Encarnación, begun in to the 8th c. BC and in Arabic it 1681, is considered a was known as Wabasar , described historical monument of as a farmstead by Ibn al-Khatib. national interest, and so is The settlement was abandoned the Convent of Santa after the (baptized Moor) Clara by the architect rebellion against Philip II. The Hernán Ruiz, finished at surrounding land produces olive the beginning of the 18th oil, good wine and home-made c. It houses a valuable pork sausages. Traditional dishes collection of works of art. include gachas picantes, choto en There is also the house of ajillo, cordero a la caldereta and migas El Inca Garcilaso de la con melón . Vega, the house of San