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P-OP-O Life LifeLife inin thethe Pyrénées-Orientales Pyrénées Orientales

Out for the Day Battle of Le

Walk The Region Paulilles to Banyuls-sur-Mer

Améliorez votre Anglais Autumn 2012 AND Test your French FREE / GRATUIT Nº 37 Your English Speaking Services Directory www.anglophone-direct.com Fond perdu 31/10/11 9:11 Page 1 Edito... Don’t batten down those hatches yet ‚ summer Register for our is most definitely not over here in the P-O and free weekly newsletter, we have many more long sunny days ahead. Lazy and stay up to date with WINDOWS, DOORS, SHUTTERS & CONSERVATORIES walks on deserted golden beaches, meanderings life in the Pyrénées-Orientales. www.anglophone -direct.com through endless hills, orchards and vines against a background of cloudless blue sky, that incredible Installing the very best since 1980 melange of every shade of green, red, brown and gold to delight Call or visit our showroom to talk the heart of artist and photographer, lift the spirits and warm the soul. with our English speaking experts. We also design Yes, autumn is absolutely my favourite time of the year with its dry warm days and and install beautiful cooler nights and a few drops of rain after such a dry summer will be very welcome! Unrivalled 30 year guarantee conservatories. We have dedicated a large part of this autumn P-O Life to remembrance, lest we ever forget the struggles and lost lives of the past which allow No obligation free quotation – Finance available subject to status us to sit on shady terraces in the present, tasting and toasting the toils of a land which has seen its fair share of blood, sweat and tears. Alongside interesting facts, entertainment listings, and language, exercises, Leigh and Merry take us on a fabulous coastal walk from Paulilles to Banyuls, John checks out the dwindling flight possibilities, and pops into the casino, Simon Newman relaxes amidst the Pyramids of and Courtney O’Brien-Brown chats to Etiennette, the ‘witch’ of Castelnou. Don’t forget to visit our site at www.anglophone-direct.com to find out more about what‘s going on in the region, walks, restaurant reviews, and a whole load of other stuff. And, most important of all, we do hope your autumn is golden. Kate Contact us Advertising Magazine gratuit. Tout Droits réservés, e name To find out more about how your Reproduction interdite Unrivalled range you can trust business can benefit from advertising in Impression: Imprimerie du Mas Tirage: 9000 ex of high security PO Life and Anglophone Direct contact Ne pas jeter sur la voie publique - Anglophonedirect Michelle on 06 12 22 23 70 (advertising only) accepts no responsibility for the competency of windows people and services advertising in PO Life. [email protected] Concepteur et rédacteur: Kate www.tryba.com Editorial Maquette & Création: For editorial queries & comment www.blyth-spirit.com tel: 04 68 05 86 71 [email protected] 2 09 64 48 51 86 (editorial only) Cover photo: Steve Bumphrey Next to “Le Clos des Lys” restaurant and the car dealerships P-OLife... Index P-O Life distribution points...... 5 Pyramids of Perpignan ...... 36-37 Walk the region Paulilles to Banyuls-sur-Mer ...... 6-7 Test your French...... 38-41 Did you know?...... 8-9 Améliorez votre Anglais...... 42-43 Airport News...... 10-11 Over the Border Traditions & Events...... 13-15 with Frog bus...... 44 Food & drink Getting married in !...... 46-47 Restaurant review Le Cédrat Joacasino...... 16-17 French Life Boles de Picoulat...... 20 Miss-used, or just miss-understood?...... 50-51 Witch of Castelnou...... 22-23 The Pat Line ...... 52-53 The sweet chestnut...... 27 Bugarach - not the end of the world...... 54-55 Out for the day Things you might need to know...... 56-57 The battle of …...... 28-31 Emergency numbers...... 59 A Remembrance Day Out...... 32-35 English Speaking Services...... 60-63

P-O Life can be found at the following main distribution points. P-O Life All main tourist offices and Palais des Congrès LifeLife in thethe Pyrénées-Orientales Pyrénées Orientales Argelès: Carrefour, Café Noisette Le Boulou: Expert, Leclerc, Intermarché Canet: Château Esparrou, Hyper Casino Walk the Region Racou to : Asia Center, Mas Guerido Zoo : Intermarché, bulthaup b3 Out for the day Murals of Timeless and classic. Carrefour Market, Bar Au Bon Coin, Real Estates - see p64, Allianz Maury P-O AméliorezLi votre AnglAis - Céret - see p53 Collioure: Château Royal : Champion LifeLife in thethe Pyrénées-Orientales PyrénéesAnD Orientales testf youre French

SPRING 2012 Your English Speaking Services Directory Inspired by our convictions. Ille sur Têt: Carrefour Market Laroque: Carrefour Market, Café FREE / GRATUIT Nº 35 www.anglophone-direct.com des Artistes Perpignan: Leroy Merlin, Loft Café A bulthaup kitchen combines the The passion for detail plays as important a role : Intermarché Prades: Super U, Intermarché utmost individualism with precision. as the overall architectural concept. This is what Traditions and Events Pyrénées 2000: Casino Supermarket : Champion What’s on this summer? makes every bulthaup kitchen unique. It repre- Out for the Day Foothills of sents true, customized perfection tailored pre- Many of our advertisers also stock P-O Life, so remember to pick the AlbÈres SUMMER

FREE / GRATUIT2012 Nº 36 AMÉLIOREZ VOTRE ANGLAIS AND TEST YOUR FRENCH cisely to the room and everyone that lives in it. up a copy the next time you’re in their shop, office or restaurant... Your English Speaking Services Directory www.anglophone-direct.com

Tristano 4 rue de la République 66000 Perpignan T 04 68 34 09 22 www.bulthaup.com 4 5

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Un cactus demande à un autre : 510452E 4704380N, you can choose either to “Connais- le langage des turn right and downwards to the sea or short-cut hommes?” “Oui” répond l’autre cactus. “C’est through the trees straight ahead, which avoids facile. Ils disent tous AÏEEEEE! climbing back up to the path later. On exiting the trees and turning right, you emerge at the cliffs overlooking the sea, named Cap Castell de Velló. parallel to the coast, to Cap d’Ullastrell. You can find After admiring the impressive views of Banyuls to a very good description of this part in Ted and Kate the south and the waves rolling onto the rocks Hiscock’s walk at www.anglophone-direct.com/ below, retrace your steps inland about 80m and Walk-Banyuls-sur-Mer-to-Port “views across to turn left and follow the footpath northwards and Cap Bear in one direction and to Banyuls-sur-Mer La Côte Vermeille upwards. It is well marked with yellow paint. in the opposite direction whilst inland and behind P There is a fork in the footpath at a are Cosprons, Tour de Madeloc and to the left, Paulilles to Banyuls-sur-Mer semicircular car turning space at 510690E the three beaches, their ruined fortresses, concrete 4704690N, you should turn right here instead of excrescences from World War II and the admirably with Leigh and Merry Foster heading inland. (We didn’t and ended up having to adventurous development of the Conservation Site of climb over a drainage ditch, a familiar Foster tactic!) the Dynamite Factory of Paulilles.” Length: approx. 6.5 km circular walk. Time, approx 2 hrs. Well marked and Follow the footpath north down the low ridge P After crossing the Cap you reach a small signposted. Map reference IGN 2549OT 31N 509910E 4705560N road leading to Platja del This walk starts and ends at Paulilles, south of Port Vendres – the town has recently claimed the Forat, a seemingly forgotten beach for its own, but that does not change the unspoiled beauty of its pebble-dashed sands and pebbly beach fronted by a crystal clear blue water, nestling beneath immaculately terraced vines. handful of low houses. As you continue north, you have to leave Forat and P Start at the beach, or in high summer more eastwards, following the contours of the hillside follow the road behind the likely at the car park by the roundabout exit to in between vineyards and a conifer plantation. ruined factory to the larger Cosprons. Instead of following everyone towards Everywhere there are ancient – looking dry stone beach at Anse de Paulilles. the sea, head to the southern end of the car park terraces and carefully tended vines, and you are At the north end you follow where there is a footpath leading through part quickly lost in nature and surrounded by birdsong. a small creek inland about of the ruined Nobel brothers’ dynamite factory. P When you reach an open vineyard, at 100m under a footbridge, While it may seem odd to recommend a walk and climb up to the right between a railway and a main road, bear with to pass through more us, the rewards are worth it! The footpath tracks ruins, being swallowed by the railway through the hills (don’t go under vegetation. The path winds the bridge or you’ll be on the wrong side!) You through the thick woodland are surrounded by vines, trees and cacti, but over the promontory before with beautiful views up to the Tour de Madeloc. you finally descend to your Follow the footpath south up to the top of the starting point at Plage hill, where you emerge next to the main road at Bernardi for a refreshing dip a roundabout looking down towards Banyuls. in the sea or, if you’re lucky, This is the Coll de Pere Barnera. a cold drink! Cross the road here and take the gravel track 6 7 Didyouknow...? Austrian Son of a ….. I swear…. One of the first French words we learn In the 12th century, Catalans already had a well Did you know that the in school is ‘bic’, for ballpoint pen.(Qu’est developed sense of identity and pride, shown croissant, firmly associated ce qu’il y a dans ta trousse?). In fact, the by this ancient Catalan oath of allegiance made with France, actually originated in Austria? pen was not invented by Monsieur Bic, as to the king. August Zang, Austrian artillery officer, many believe, but by Monsieur Bich! Based opened a Viennese in Paris in 1839. He upon an already existing ballpoint pen We….. who are as good as you introduced Viennese specialties such as the ‘kipfel’, manufactured which quickly developed into the croissant as we know in Argentina by swear to you, who are no better than we, it, named for its crescent shape. László Bírópen, Marcel Bich to accept you as our king Can you dig it? presented it to According to legend, in 1939, seven lorries carrying In the cinemas now... the American and sovereign lord, Republican gold bars left the Spanish village of La Vajol, in the Filmed in and around Céret, with public - but took Albères, heading for the nearest port. Only six arrived. financial aid from the Région Languedoc- good advice and provided you observe all Eyewitnesses stated that they had seen it around Las Illas near , Paradis Perdu tells the story dropped the h off Maureillas, others at Argelès where they suggested that the of a father and his teenage daughter his name before our liberties and laws; drivers had buried it in the sand, awaiting better times. Taking who live, work and love in an isolated marketing it! a bucket and spade to the beach will never be the same! ’pépinière’ in southern France. but if not, not.

Escarro - all mine Known for its mining history, with a fascinating Duck! But not everybody is happy. Fed museum to the “Memoire de la Mine” the mine Wild ducks have been hanging regularly by kindly residents and of was the first area in France to produce around the campsites and restaurants tourists, the surplus of lying fluorspar, (also called fluorite) dubbed “the most of Argeles-plage for several decades about is now attracting rats and other colourful mineral in the world” and also mined at and have become a bit of a tourist unwanted guests. the Blue John Cavern in Derbyshire. attraction. The mine closed in 1993 when the mineral was exhausted. Shake your shoes.. Love ‘em or hate ‘em, everyone should know a little Hannibal and the elephants bit about scorpions shouldn’t they? And the news is Carthaginian commander Hannibal better than you would expect. Apparently, the black stopped off at Elne (then names Illiberis) ones which look quite mean are not actually to discuss a treaty which would allow his aggressive, and fairly harmless. If they Crying in the Chapel army free passage when they marched were to sting you, it would be no Did you know that the chapel from Iberia over the Pyrenees and the more painful than a bee sting. (ouch, on the hill near the village of Alps into northern Italy. I hear you say!) The paler coloured Castelnou is reputed to have The treaty allowed safe passage scorpions (Scorpion languedocien very special acoustics which through the Panissars (Perthus) pass or Buthus Occitanus) are actually allowed the curé to hear every with 80,000 soldiers, 10,000 cavalrymen the least venomous of all French word spoken in the village? No and 40 elephants. War elephants were scorpions - and they are nocturnal so need for confessionals then!! 8 trained to charge the enemy, trampling you’re unlikely to meet one during 9 them and breaking their ranks. the day. Phew from me! P-OLife...

Check out OTHER OPTIONS: It may well be that for Frogbus.com some people the only realistic option will be - for a great alternative to change planes, either in the UK at major to driving to & Girona airports such as Heathrow, Gatwick, Stansted, Manchester etc, or in France at airports in Excellent selection of nearby regions such as or , properties throughout the continuing down to PO by either train or rental Pyrénées-Orientales car. Another possibility is the use of the train With JOHN FAIRCLOUGH ◗ Personalised property search AIRPORT NEWS via TGV and Eurostar services. THE SNCF is promising fare deals to/from London St Pancras ◗ Relocation services PREVIEW OF AIR SERVICES FROM PO At BEZIERS only one of the summer Ryanair links via Paris or starting at around 60€¨ each AIRPORTS AND NEARBY....AUTUMN 2012 survives the axe. way. It seems that they cannot be booked more ◗ Project management Luckily, the Airlines and Airports have announced Bristol 2x pw than 3 months in advance, and the bargain their autumn/winter schedules good and early this basement fares will involve the same sort of ◗ Language assistance year, no doubt in an attempt to entice us to book MONTPELLIER chips in with an easyJet flight; restrictions to cancellation/amendments and and translation well in advance. Less happily, the range of services Gatwick 3x pw luggage as demanded by the budget airlines. and frequencies from the Airports of the PO and So, once again, it’s down to BARCELONA to So, all in all continued hard times for those Bilingual Estate Agency nearby have once again been drastically cut from provide the lion’s share of UK/Ire flights, though wishing to travel to/from PO outside the With you every step of the way November onwards, with, if anything, even fewer I estimate that, even here numbers are down popular summer months. I hope to report a to choose from than the 2011-12 winter season. about 10% compared to last winter. The promised few new routes added in the Winter edition as The demise of BMI Baby has meant that there is improvements to rail connections there in theory airlines crank up their winter sports flights in the one fewer airline offering services to this region. should make access easier, but until such time, a New Year, but realistically, I suspect that it will Booking well in advance may well be the order of flight from El Prat does represent something of a only involve Toulouse. the day! Below is a summary of what seems to be trek. available in terms of direct flights to destinations in Birmingham 2x pw (Ryanair) the UK and Ireland. Edinburgh 3x pw (Ryanair) Once again PERPIGNAN sees no direct UK/ Glas Prest 3x pw (Ryanair) Ire services, with only the Air France connection Liverpool 4x pw (Ryanair) at Paris, and maybe an option of using Ryanair via 7x pw (EasyJet) Charleroi (Belgium) the sole possibilities. Manchester. 3x pw (Monarch) Beautiful detached villa with apartment, pool and breathtaking views. 5 minutes from Likewise GIRONA has seen savage cuts to its Leeds Brad 2x pw (Jet 2) Prades. 360,000 €. Ref: 66025838. Ryanair operation, begging the question as to how Stansted 7x pw (Easyjet) genuine the alleged “dispute” over landing charges 14x pw (Ryanair) Are you selling? Call us! that led to cuts last winter really was! The only Southend 5x pw (EasyJet) Vous vendez? Appelez-nous! Ryanair flight available this winter will be Luton 12x pw (EasyJet) Manchester 4x per week Gatwick 38x pw (Easyjet) www.medandmountain.com CARCASSONNE fares little better with reduced 7x pw (Monarch) Ryanair options compared to last year Heathrow 56x pw (BA/Iberia) [email protected] Stansted 2x pw Newcastle 4x pw (Easyjet) +33 (0) 468 56 54 22 Dublin 2x pw Dublin 5x pw (Ryanair) or +33 (0) 612 29 52 59 7x pw (Aer Lingus) In association with Revimmo, 10 carte professionnelle no. 66-2006-213-T-G 11 Traditions&Events..... 1st - 16th September Perpignan Visa Pour L’image - International Photojournalism Festival Major cultural event of the P.-O. with workshops, lectures, wonderful nights of huge images projected onto giant screens in the Campo Santo and the Place de health in African countries, Afghanistan from the la Republique and 27 completely free exhibitions inside, coming of age for Swazi girls, the Rastafari scattered around central Perpignan. Many bars and Movement, North Korea hunger crisis, child restaurants will be full, not only with enthusiastic brides….. exhibition goers, but also with the alternative Each individual photographer represented has photo exhibitions of VISA OFF. an emotionally touching story to tell, images of our Wander around exhibitions documenting troubled times, of man’s inhumanity to man. But, the year’s news from all around the world… amongst the horrors of wars and natural disaster Guantanamo Bay, Nigeria, North Korea, shock are tales of hope, laugh out loud images showing wave in Greece, the graveyards of E-waste, mental up the quirky side of life. www.visapourlimage.com Local Fairs and Festivals Don’t forget to check out your local tourist office for the date and location of the many fairs and festivals around the region in autumn, celebrating every imaginable animal, vegetable and mineral. Here are just a few... They might not all come up to expectations - some are only small gatherings - but it’s a great way to support the local producers, many of whom are struggling in the present economic climate. 15th - 16th September 20th - 21st October 4th November Canet Ferme à Canet Ur Foire Internationale du Castelnou Marché du Gout Cheval fermier 16th September Fête de l’Âne 18th - 21st October Caudiès-de-Fenouillèdes Catalan Le Boulou Les Journées du Gout Fête du Chardonnay

30th September 21st October 13th November Saint Michel de Llotes Fête du Foire d’Olette Journée des Saveurs miel et des Abeilles Authentiques 27th October 18th November 14th October Perpignan Bio génération Chestnut Festival Prades Foire au gras 28th October 12 Fête de la pomme 13 Traditions&Events..... 22nd - 23rd September 5th - 28th October 27th Oct - 25th Nov Perpignan and Fort of Serrat Automne Musical en Vallespir. Palais des Expositions, What’s on Around the Region d’en Vaquer nr Auchan Series of 5 concerts and 2 musical Perpignan Foire Saint Martin Trobades Médiévales de spectacles, involving 100 musicians All the fun of the fair We hate sending people Perpignan and dancers in villages around the off on wild goose chases, SEPTEMBER Medieval fun in and around Vallespir. www.amuvall.org 27th - 28th October particularly in the hunting Perpignan as this medieval weekend Perpignan, Palais des Expos 1st September takes us back in time to the days of 18th and 20th October season! There are still so many International Dog Salon Château Royal, Collioure La Grande the kings of Majorque. Nuit et Fête du vin primeur festivals, and events to herald in Scène Catalane Perpignan Sunday Oct 28th 28th Sept - 21st Oct autumn in the Pyrenees Orientales, “Els Ben Parits”, Catalan equivalent to the From 18h onwards (18th) caves, bars Don’t forget to turn your clocks back and sometimes they are sneakily ’Enfoirés’, perform in this annual benefit Perpignan Festival Jazzebre and restaurants will celebrate the Clocks back brought forward, backwards, concert of music, dance, drama, donating Series of jazz and world music 2012 wine vintage with music, and sideways, cancelled or changed….or we all proceeds to French charity, Les Restos du concerts in Perpignan, and towns tastings On the 20th, throughout 30th Oct - 4th Nov Cœur, which provides food packages and just get it wrong! With this in mind, we bring you around the Pyrénées-Orientales. the day, the cobbles of the rue Mailly Château Royal, Collioure, free to the poor and homeless. Musical picnics, debates, musical and rue de l’Ange run red, white and L’Automne des Antiquaires only a small selection of main, confirmed events 04 68 85 04 53 apéros, films...... www.jazzebre.com rosé with ‘cavistes’ touting their new Antique dealers galore. here. Detailed, up-to-date What’s On information wines (les vins primeurs), fresh from will continue to be published on www.anglophone- 1st - 2nd September the vines into your glass ..... direct.com and in our free weekly newsletter. Canet village Fetes Médiévales Medieval festival and market with medieval 26th - 27th October November crafts, stalls, fire-eaters, sword fighting, re- OCTOBER Tressere Festa de las Bruixes 11th November enactments of medieval scenes, jugglers... BANK HOLIDAYS Fairies foul and foulies fair... witches ’Castagnade’ September 11th - Diada de Catalunya - 3th - 14th October and wizards from around the region 15th - 16th September Grilled chestnuts, vin nouveau, national holiday throughout Banyuls-sur-Mer Fête des arrive on their broomsticks this music, dancing and a cosy autumn 1st November - La Toussaint (All Saints Day) National Journees Européennes du Vendanges weekend when the village and its atmosphere People visit cemeteries and place Patrimoine BBQs, picnics, bands, dancing, visitors dress up for a weekend of chrysanthemums on the graves of family Museums, exhibitions, historical and juggling on the beach along with myth, legend and Catalan culture. 11th November cultural centres invite you to share the excessive tasting of vino and arrival members (most shops closed) Perpignan Foire aux étalagistes Catalan culture free of charge. by sea of the grape harvest as in days 11th November - Armistice of WW1 (1918). Colourful market along the Beware! They are not all free and it is worth of old when the barques catalanes riverbanks of Perpignan centre Remembrance ceremonies and flowers placed checking in advance. brought the grapes to the beach...... on war memorials (most shops closed). Recently www.journeesdupatrimoine.culture.fr suggested that this day should represent all et wars. 14th September for d ailed info rmation visi 25th November - La Sainte Catherine - now Bages Concert in aid of cancer www.angl t:- rarely observed but unmarried ladies over research ophone-d m 25, known as ‘les Catherinettes’ used to wear Homage to a brave young lady, Margaux, irect.co eccentric hats to help hook a husband! (not a who lost her courageous battle against a public holiday) brain tumour in 2010. All proceeds will go • Not sure where to start ? to the ’Etoile de Martin’ charity for cancer d v g property consultants • Trying to manage your research. 04 68 21 89 50 project from overseas? Whether you’re looking to build a new • Problems with the 15th - 16th September house, refurbish a derelict rural mas or language barrier ? Céret Ronde Cérétane modernise a townhouse, we are here to help and guide you through from start to fi nish. Call today or see our School holidays for our region Challenging marathon through the website to fi nd out more vineyards and cherry orchards of Céret. Summer Holidays - Rentrée - 4th September Music and entertainment all weekend. Mob: 06 84 53 12 03 Toussaint (autumn half term) www.rondeceretane.com Tel: 04 68 55 86 80 [email protected] 27th October - 8th November 14 specialists in property development and project management www.dvgpropertyconsultants.com 15 Food&drink There is also the Gourmet menu Le Cédrat Restaurant at 28€ for special occasions. Ever Route du Perthus 66 160 keen to impress, Wesley provided LE BOULOU Review Tel: 04 68 83 01 20. us with a few select nibbles from with www.joa-casino.com Le Cédrat John Fairclough this menu, including a superb foie gras with apricot chutney, and Open 7/7 pieces of his succulent home- Le Boulou . Mains include a Eating to see more resto Joacasino trio of locally caught fish, and fillet Out reviews visit of beef. Of course all the dishes, Guide www.anglophone-direct.com In one of his French themed books, the humorous travel writer, Stephen Clarke tells of fixing a first plus a few more are available as date with one of his many new girlfriends, on her suggestion, at “The Casino”. Excited at the prospect an à la Carte option, but I’d certainly of visits to the bewildering array of slot machines of an evening of glamour by the roulette wheel, appropriately booted and suited, imagine his recommend sticking to one of the menus for value or gaming tables. Of course it is there, and a brief dismay when it turns out that their final destination is the café of the supermarket of the same name for money. round of Roulette (either English or French!), in some dismal suburb of Nantes. Wines are plentiful. Though not publicised, Blackjack, or Poker could be a fun way to round off there is a pichet wine from the Le Boulou co-op your should you so wish. Or not. No such problem here in Le Boulou. The Casino of the slot machines and gaming tables, the food at 4€50 per 50cl. Also good value is the JoaCasino One important point to remember is that to gain on the main D900 Le Boulou to road, area is well appointed, with a choice of a sheltered house wine. Red, white or rosé vin de Pays d’Oc at entry to the Casino and Restaurant you will need to in common with many of the region’s gambling outside terrace or a spacious, air-conditioned, 13€ a bottle, all good quality. The fairly extensive show some form of ID. Either a French ID card or a establishments, has been incorporated into the dining room. The kitchen is open from Wed lunch list of wines from all over the French regions passport will suffice, but they are very strict on this... JoaCasino chain. Fortunately, this is a group that to Sun eve inclusive. At lunchtimes Wed to Sat, a include some rare vintages, at prices that are no ID = no entry. Children under 18 can therefore prides itself on the quality of its catering. Recent large buffet with both hot and cold dishes is offered commensurate with the surroundings. In general, not eat in the restaurant. chefs have been members of the Toque Blanche at a very reasonable 14€ whilst Sunday Lunches are outside that, drinks prices are average for the area. All in all, for an evening out with a difference, decoration. The most recent is due to retire, and a gourmet 28€ 4 course affair. Service is prompt, efficient and very friendly. and a little glamour thrown in for good measure, his replacement, keen young Wesley Durand, is a The entry level is the 14€ menu du jour. Three Wesley takes the trouble to come out to chat with coupled with an excellent meal produced by an up graduate of the celebrated Paul Bocuse School in courses, no choice and changed every day. On this diners and oversee the service of his food, in which and coming young chef, the JoaCasino in Le Boulou Lyon and the winner of the ‘Jeune Talents’ award. He occasion it consisted of a starter of tartine catalane, he clearly takes great pride and enthusiasm. Several is a welcome option for locals and tourists alike. brings a modern flair and freshness to his creations. elegantly presented and decorated with anchovies, of the waiting staff speak pretty good English. As one would expect in a casino, the a main of strips of marinated chicken, grilled and Interestingly, and to their immense credit, although Further info telephone 04 68 83 01 20 . surroundings are comfortable and plush, recently served with a light barbecue sauce with small fresh this is first and foremost a gambling house, there Reservations, though not necessary, would be renovated, with an interior inspired by Catalan local veg, followed by a home made creamy flaky is no Las Vegas style hard-sell to diners to partake sensible at busy times. architect, Gaudi. A little apart from the hubbub gateau. You can upgrade, as we did, to the Decouverte menu at 18€, basically the menu du jour, but with extra choices added in. Currently, this consists of a delicious cold melon soup or a mixed Roussillon salad as starters, followed by an excellent fish tian gratineed with parmesan cheese, or traditional Catalan dish, boles de picoulat, home made and by some distance the best I’ve tasted. introduced more of the chef’s fancy and tasty creations, or a plate of local cheeses for those with no sweet tooth. 16 17 Food&drink RESTAURANT

RESTAURANT A hiddenRESTAU RjewelANT in the heart of Céret. COLLIOURE Not just for outside summer dining! You have whiled away the hours, “people An unforgettable dining experience watching” from our shady terrace, enjoying a meal in the heart of Collioure with friends or with clients. We now invite you to discover our “hidden restaurant” - perfect e sympathetically converted 12th century building will be for those cooler evenings open all year round for lunch & dinner – dine inside or outside in the tranquil walled gardens Uniquely re-designed by local artists Alias Choose from a mouth watering selection of tapas, et Alias, our stunning, upstairs dining room freshly caught sh, seafood and meat. combines charm and atmosphere with Select your cut of sh or meat, the size you want – art and creativity then decide how you would like it cooked – grilled, baked, We look forward to welcoming you crusted or ambé 35 bd Maréchal Jo re, Céret May-Sept Open 7/7. Otherwise: closed Mon evening & all day Tues Why not try our traditional “Cargolades” – delicious 3 Course menus starting from 17€. barbecued snails or spit roasted suckling pig Extensive à la carte menu including salads, tapas... 04 68 87 11 27 All of the wines on our menu come om our own domaine. Group bookings, weddings and parties catered for. O’SHANNON PUB Reservations recommended - 04 68 95 12 52 Located between the Cave Coopérative , Le Dominicain More than just a Guinness Bar... Cave and the Musée de Collioure 7 Draught including 4 Route de Port Vendres 66190 Collioure our beloved Guinness www.lejardindecollioure.com Now serving draught Cider Ample ee, private parking

3, Rue de l’Incendie, 66000 Perpignan Tel: 04 68 35 12 48 Open 7 nights a week 18 Sept - 7.30pm – 2.00am | Oct, No - 5.30pm – 2.00am O’SHANNON Perpignan 19 Food&drink

Boles de Picoulat A traditional Catalan recipe of meatballs, beans and simmered in a rich spicy sauce, this dish warms the cockles on a brisk autumn day. Here is one of several variations.

Ingredients 100 g of 500 g of green olives Restaurant and Wine Cave 750 g of pork mince 3 300 g of cepes (or dried cepes) 750 g of beef mince 2 cloves of 1 kg of carrots Facing the marina our restaurant is located 2 eggs 1 bunch of fresh purée, oil, salt, pepper next door to our own wine domaine.

Preparation Brown sliced carrots in , add the 2 Dine inside or outside in the garden under remaining onions and thinly sliced garlic, tomato the shade of olive and orange trees. carrots, onions and garlic. Clean ‘cepes’ or purée and glass of water. Simmer for 15 minutes. soak if dry. Add meat balls, cepes and green olives. Cover Specialities include tapas, grilled meats and Chop one finely together with one clove with water, add salt and pepper and cook under freshly caught sh & seafood of garlic and the coriander. Add salt and pepper, cover for 45 minutes. and mix preparation with minced meat and the All of the wines on our menu come from our eggs. Adjust seasoning to taste and serve with warm own domaine. white beans or tossed with garlic and Form into small meatballs, flour generously and Menus starting from 14,50€ brown in olive oil. olive oil on the side. For further information or reservations: 10 av du Fontaulé 66650, Banyuls-sur-Mer Le Manège Friendly, relaxed atmosphere tel/fax: +33 (0)4 68 55 22 64 Bar, Restaurant, Pub 3 course menus from 12 euros www.domaine-st-sebastien.com Children’s Menu – 6,50 euros Live music evenings “Guest Beers” 22 rue des Pyrénées – Le Boulou 04 68 39 35 64 20 21 Food&drink

wild delicacies are closely guarded secrets in the region. But Etiennette has never needed to look too far. She has them all growing wild across her property. “We have a farm with 80 hectares. 7 hectares of vines, then there’s trees, olive trees and the rest is for the sheep.” Her knowledge of plants has also influenced her family. “Both of my daughters married doctors, one of whom is a homeopath. My daughter makes a special therapeutic cataplasm (poultice) from clay and essential oils. ‘Plants? I know all about them’’ Etiennette is not just renowned for her knowledge of plants and local produce. She is also a poet. “I’ve tried to write about flowers, about Etiennette animals, but they don’t like it. People like poems the ‘witch of Castelnou’ about parties, about the fêtes, even Castelnou. The birthday ones, the ones about love and friendship by Courtney O’Brien-Brown sell the most I do poems for 60th, 70th and 80th “Each herb comes in its own season. The ‘monnaie At 89 years of age, the larger than life Etiennette birthdays and wedding anniversaries too. I wrote du pape’ needs two years before you pick it. It grows has been selling fresh homegrown ‘produits du one that is from the male’s perspective. People buy the first year, the flowers come out in the second year terroir’ since the late 1940’s when she and her that one because men don’t dare to say these things and then it needs to have no rain because there are husband ran a small farm in the region. “When we sometimes.” seeds inside. You peel them from one side and then got the phone line here, there was only one phone in The name of Etiennette is often discussed in the the other. I tell my grandson, the village. People used to call us region. She is known as the ‘witch of Castelnou’, look maybe in August… and we’d prepare a grocery bag a slightly misleading title. If she resembles one, try to catch them if you see for them with vegetables from it would be in the Druidic sense - a wise women them. Every plant has its our garden. We’d kill a rabbit if of plant and herb lore. Or perhaps it is due to her own season. Thank god it’s they asked for one. My husband lyrical ability to compose verse and inspire emotion. like that.” is a good worker in the garden Most likely it is both these things combined with To visit Etiennette and in the vines….we had a bit her captivating personality and creative sense of Mayneris’ shop is an of everything. Selling things here style. Visit her shop and she will happily tell the experience more akin to started like that.” tales of Castelnou, the American spy who lived a stroll in the mountain Later in life Etiennette in the castle, the old farming traditions and the than to stepping inside an old stone house. The decided to sell specifically herbs, stocking up on best time to pick wildflowers. But, Etiennette does aromas of , and rosemary mingle with seasonal varieties for year round use. ” When people not dispense herbs for medical use. Instead she tilleul and laurier. Dried bunches of l’immortelles come here, they take 3 or 4 bundles. You can’t find recommends them for making a jolly good dinner! (popular for la Fête de la Saint-Jean) chardon bleu herbs sold in many places like that. These are all Le Boutique de Mami Etiennette is located inside and monnaie du pape hang from the roof beams. Mediterranean plants. There used to be less garrigue the stone walls of Castelnou, to the left of the The mélange of natural odours puts the modern here and more herds. Now there are less animals entrance arch. All the herbs are picked wild, dried boutiques of L’Occitane and Fragonard completely eating them, so we have more herbs and plants.” and sold in bundles. Decorated photocopies of her to shame. The best places to find cèpe, mûres and other poems can be purchased for 2€ each. 22 23 Food&drink Florence, Franck Fulliquet and their team look forward to welcoming you all year round

Visit this famous ancient Lintel in the nearby church in Saint Genis des Fontaines PujolRestaurant Poissonnerie Choose your fi sh from the Auberge des Albères freshly caught catch in our “fi shmongers” then decide how you would like it cooked - grilled, Restaurant, Wine & Tapas Bar baked, salt crusted, fl ambé ... 3 course mid week lunch menu from 14€20 A truly unique seafood dining The Real Taste of experience 2 courses from 12€20 the Mediterranean Plat du Jour 10€20 Extensive à la carte menu also Using only the fi nest local, seasonal available including a wide ingredients we offer a mouthwatering selection of meat dishes For a “lighter bite” why range of varied, inspired dishes Seafood platters Dine outside on the covered not relax with a glass of Dine inside or outside on our pleasant terrace overlooking the Port or to eat in or to wine and a selection of covered terrace. On cooler evening soak inside in our large panoramic up the warm and ambience of our open take away dining room home cooked Tapas re. Book now to avoid disappointment 04 68 82 01 39 Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner www.chezpujol.com 16 qu. Pierre Forgas 66660 Port Vendres Just 10 Minutes from the tourist hustle & bustle of Argeles Sur Mer Ample free parking LE TRÉMAIL - Collioure 78 avenue Maréchal Joffre 66740 Un vrai bijou au coeur du Collioure SAINT GENIS DES FONTAINES Using only freshly caught fi sh & seafood our specialities include: mariscade, parillade, bouillabaisse, fi sh “à la plancha” Open all year round For Reservations : 1 rue Arago, Collioure 04 68 82 16 10 20m from the sea front www.restaurant-letremail.fr 04 68 89 88 38 24 www.auberge-des-alberes.com 25 Food&drink Divide and Conker the sweet chestnut Look out for a ‘castanyada’ near you, village festival celebrating the sweet chestnut, traditionally JAZZ RESTAURANT & BAR held on the 1st November at Toussaint, but a hot Relaxed dining experience in the heart of Perpignan treat on any cold day of the year. Open for , Lunch, Afternoon Tea, Aperos and Dinner Not much beats an autumn walk, a big stick, and • Inspired cuisine a sweet chestnut hunt. Delicious roasted, steamed, • A La Carte & “Grillades Plancha” pureed, chestnuts are free,low in calories • Vegetarian options always available compared to most other nuts, but rich in minerals • Award winning wines from around the world and vitamins. Free live music most Thursday evenings, visit our website for details The following chestnut recipe is definitely NOT Offi cial low in calories!! partner of Chocolate Chestnut To avoid disappointment reservations are strongly recommended Ingredients 04 68 66 88 74 | [email protected] 200g/7oz maquette pub AC FR v3.pdf 1 03/03/11 15:41 2 Rue Fontfroide, 66000 Perpignan 225g/8oz Cooked Chestnuts (steamed or boiled) (near the Cathedral) www.loftcafeperpignan.com 3 tbsp Cocoa Powder 1 Egg, beaten 4 Tbsp Caster Milk

Preheat the oven to 180C, 350F, Gas Mark 4, roll The Region's Very out pastry thinly and line a tin. Mash chestnuts until smooth in a large mixing A warm welcome and a Best International bowl. great atmosphere awaits Stir in the sugar and cocoa and add enough Supermarket milk to make a thick cream. Roulette An unrivalled range of Add beaten egg to the bowl, mix well and pour Slot machines mouthwatering foods, drinks into pastry case. Bake for 35 - 40 minutes. Serve Black Jack

and fresh ingredients from hot or cold. Poker around the world. Texas Hold’em Poker Bar Restaurant Sporting events shown live on a huge screen – for all the family 04 68 83 01 20 Bringing you the tastes of home and abroad 26 www.joa-casino.com 27 Je vais AU Boulou - Outfortheday... not ‘à le Boulou’. France and , putting the Roussillon on the to provide all front line. their power needs — the Good Pierre Bayle, 10 years old, soldier of the brand Life à la francaise! You will receive a warm welcome Lebloody Boulou… battles and bold boy’s bottoms new French Republic, was the first child to officially in this tiny tasting room. They do not believe die at the battle of Le Boulou in 1794. His weapon in selling out to the large supermarkets, so the was his drum. He is remembered for his courage wines are only to be found there, or in small wine in drumming continuously throughout the night boutiques. Contact them on 04 68 83 28 51, or just to mask the sounds of cannon movement and pop in. If the gates are open, so are they! military preparation before the battle. Believing After a fortifying taster of organic wine, and a that the attack was coming from that direction, the nibble of organic almond, continue along this Spanish turned their cannons on the drummers. It pretty, winding road for a couple a miles, until a was noted that ‘le petit Pierre prend contact avec left turn indicates the site of the battle. Follow the les horreurs du champ de bataille mais est fier signs, and the distant French flag, to arrive at this d’accompagner les soldats victorieux’. He was hit in historic and relatively unsung panoramic site. the face and died on the spot. A historic circular walk with signs and Le Petit Tambour was immortalised by sculptor explanations of the bloody battle, several of which Gérard Vié. His statue stands proud in Le Boulou are being renovated after weather damage, starts centre, homage to the brave little drummer boy. off from this point, or from Le Boulou itself. Ask for details at the tourist office or look out for the full THE SITE and detailed walk in the spring edition of P-O Life. Today, a fascinating panoramic viewpoint map looks out over the battle ground. It situates the THE TOWN THE BATTLE The Fort of Bellegarde on the important Perthus French and Spanish troops below, giving numbers As well as its strategic importance, lowest natural It is 1793.The Spanish Royalist Army holds pass has already been surrendered to the Spanish, and positions. Close your eyes and you will hear crossing point over the Pyrenees at Le Perthus, the valley, Collioure, and Port-Vendres on who are advancing on Perpignan. The tide turns the thunder of the cannons, the beat of the drums, crossroads into Spain or up to the Tech Valley, the coast. It isn’t looking good for the French and a French win at the Battle of forces the cries of the wounded and dying, smell the Le Boulou has long held the dubious title of the Republican Army, under the command of the the Spanish back to the Tech River. gunpowder. A bloody battle, landmark in the biggest bottleneck in the P-O. ‘Comité de salut public’ temporary revolutionary In 1794, on the plateau of Pla del Rey, the Battle history of the Roussillon, engraved on the Arc de Today, thanks to a recently opened by-pass, the government. Responsible for the ‘Reign of Terror’, of le Boulou takes place. Led by the seasoned Triomphe in Paris. mists of car exhaust and impatient, honking drivers (mass executions of ‘enemies of the revolution’), Général Dugommier, it is a decisive victory over Drive out of Le Boulou on the they execute French generals for losing battles, and the Spanish, who, with the way back to Bellegarde main road towards Perpignan. Look French soldiers for displaying royalist tendencies! blocked at , are forced to flee in disarray out for a small, rather awkward left via Maureillas las Illas and the Col du Porteil. turn after the pottery and level Spanish dead and wounded are estimated at over crossing, signed to Domaine Els 2,000 whilst French losses are reported as 20 killed Barbats which you will soon pass on and 300 wounded. the right. This small, totally organic The Battle of the Pyrenees stemmed mainly from vineyard and orchard produces the attempt by the monarchies of western Europe some delicious organic wines and to control revolutionary France, lest the fever of muscats, along with , grape revolution spread across its borders. juice and local products. Paul and The king of Spain promised neutrality, if Louis XVI Muriel Poutingon pride themselves was spared. Red rag to a bull! Louis was executed on being completely self sufficient, in January 1793 and war was declared between including a roof full of solar panels 28 29 Outfortheday... are a dim and distant memory, and Le Boulou town the Little Drummer impossible to cross. A group of young men built is on the up. Boy, a small and up a nice little business by forming a human chain Wander around the great little shopping centre shady public and transporting travellers across the river on their with its new pedestrian zone, a variety of small garden with pretty naked backs. Known as ‘Les Barques de Cul’ (arse boutiques, and plenty of pavement cafés to allow fountain makes boats) due to their bottoms sticking out of the some serious people watching, with pretty cobbled a pleasant stop water to form a bridge, they provided a sight for streets and ancient monuments tucked away off before entering the sore eyes for the ladies of Le Boulou on a rainy day! the main through route. Look out for Le Manège, tiny 15th century For a delightful stroll, follow the path along the cheerful and friendly café restaurant on the edge Chapelle de Saint- banks of the River Tech, or just sit on one of the of the new pedestrian zone at 22 rue des Pyrénées. Antoine. Named wooden benches and enjoy the sound of the water With traditional cuisine, 3 course menus from just after the patron bubbling over the rocks. 12€, and live music in the evenings, they also boast saint of Le Boulou, On the outskirts of Le Boulou, on the road to the best toilets in town and a fabulous, quirky, originally built Le Perthus, the ‘Thermes’ water therapy centre is “Gaudi-esque” artist designed bar. on the site of the an oasis of calm, shady walks, and fizzy water! The Visit the Église Sainte-Marie just after the former cemetery medicinal and healing qualities of the waters are tourist office. Cool shelter on a hot day. The only and intended as a recognised far and wide, and did you know that if remaining part of the original 11th century church crypt for sheet salesman, Guillaume Nègre, it has your doctor recommends a spa treatment which is the fascinating door surrounded by its frieze, since served as a schoolroom, flour storage, and would be beneficial for your health, the cost is depicting scenes from the childhood of Christ, army bread oven before being restored as a chapel. reimbursed by the state? Mini cures for weight loss, sculpted by anonymous 12th century sculptor, the Stop a minute to admire the magnificent 15th back problems, help with stopping smoking, are Master of Cabestany. century, 832kg bell, before entering the ‘Espace des available as well as mornings of pampering for male Now you are in the ‘cellera’ — heart of the original Arts’ art gallery for local artists and sculptors, with and female from only 55 euros, including mud bath, small walled settlement. Farmers would build cellars a permanent expo of the Battle of Le Boulou. One water massage… hmmmmmmm, nice, although or fortified areas around the church, surrounded by of the largest local exhibition galleries in the region, these are most definitely not reimbursed! (Tel: 04 68 pits, to store and protect their crops from abusive a museum is to be added in the future, to better 87 52 00 or email [email protected]) local lords seeking inflated and unjust taxes. present the rich history of this small town. And once you’ve lost a few pounds sweating Head past the church, and look up at the cat and Look out for the autumn exhibition inspired by it out in the Thermes, why not change currency, flowerpots sitting on a nearby window ledge. Is the the Maître de Cabestany and artists, photographers pop next door and lose a few euros on the slot cat real? Are the shutters real? This fabulous ‘trompe and sculptors from Catalonia. machines in the casino? A little naughty but all l’oeil’ will certainly make you look twice. Is there Open Tues to Sat 9h - 12h and 14h - 18h. Free good fun as long as you don’t go mad. The casino even a window there? admission http://espacedesarts.over-blog.fr restaurant ‘Le Cédrat’, under enthusiastic young A little further on, watched over by the statue of chef, Wesley Durand, (see restaurant review on ARSE BOATS p16-17) puts on a very reasonably priced three Le Boulou, or El Voló, takes its name from course evening menu at 18€50 and a lunchtime the Catalan for cliff, situated as it is between ‘all-you-can-eat’ buffet at 14€ including wine. Of rivers Tech and with sheer ravines course, you don’t have to risk your hard earned overlooking the town. pennies on the roll of a dice - the restaurant is open In the early 18th century, 150 years before to all. the present suspension bridge was built Le Boulou is working hard to shake off its past to allow passage into Spain, the Tech River image of gridlocked traffic, a ‘pass through’ on the regularly flooded the valley. The wooden way to somewhere else, and the panoramic walk bridges rarely won the watery war with the around the battle site, followed by a wander around angry river and at times of high rainfall, it was this much improved little town is recommended. 30 31 Outfortheday... Codet was killed. Violet’s six year old son never forgot seeing his father’s uncontrollable tears on being told of Codet’s death. Violet himself was mobilised in 1915 and returned in 1918, totally traumatised by the horrors of war and weighing a scant fifty eight kilos. He was profoundly scarred, both physically and mentally, and, when the towns of Perpignan, Thuir, Prades, , Collioure, , Aléyna, , and St Laurent de Cerdans commissioned him to sculpt their War Memorials, the monuments he created were, in reality, anti-war memorials. Folowing the death of Rodin in 1917, Violet’s friend, Aristide Maillol of Banyuls sur Mer, was becoming recognised as the greatest living French sculptor of his generation. He too was invited to sculpt War Memorials. In common with Violet he had no wish to glorify war. They both refused to put victorious warriors on the monuments, preferring instead to evoke the fate of the women left at home, waiting for news of husbands, brothers, friends at the front, women whose sons and lovers would never A Rem embranceBy Jane Mann Day Out return.A “Lest we Forget” drive around the Pyrenees Orientales can take in many of the monuments they created, plus giving glimpses of a few of their Gustave Violet was born in Thuir in 1876. His writers and collectors, familiar with Picasso and the on more joyful themes. It could also be father and uncle had made their fortune by Ceret crowd and becoming sought after both as an the moment to visit or revisit some of the villages inventing the aperitif Byrrh, but, rather than architect and sculptor. and enjoy the autumn colours of the wonderfully following in his father’s footsteps, young His artistic life was brought to an abrupt halt by varied countryside of our Pyrénées Orientales. Gustave chose instead to train in Paris to the outbreak of war in 1914. Within the first couple We will start in Perpignan, at the Palais des become an artist, sculptor and architect. of months, his greatest friend, the writer, Louis Congrès. By the start of the 20th century he was an active member of both the Paris and the Roussillon art scene. A gentle and cultured man, he was a good friend of both local and visiting artists, musicians, 32 33 Outfortheday... Violet’s statue of a tragic couple, grief stricken at the Further up the Vallespir, Violet is responsible for loss of their young soldier son who failed to return the St Laurent de Cerdans monument designed from the 14-18 war. The neighbouring graves bear to appear to be integrated into the wall of the out the extent of the tragedy. Chapelle de la Sort. In Thuir a suitably dramatic and On the opposite side of the expressway to the moving Violet memorial dominates the gateway to Cote Vermeille, at Aléyna, is the last War Memorial, the cemetery of the town of his birth. The bas relief Gustave Violet sculpted built in 1948, four years sculptures portray to a heartrending degree both before his death. With the Memorial in Perpignan the sorrow of the women and the stoicism blended it is the one of the only two he signed. Thirty years with despair of the soldiers. after the war ended “La Douleur”, (Grief) depicts a (While in Thuir you might like to visit the Byrrh veiled woman still mourning her dead soldier. factory at the same time and admire the Gustave His Collioure Monument is adorned by one sad Eiffel station roof and the largest oak barrel in the girl, a flower in her hand, standing over the list of world…) those who fell. In Port Vendres it is Maillol’s reclining The construction of the monument to the goddess who gazes out over the harbour. It is in Entente Cordiale of 1904 in Vernet les Bains was his home town of Banyuls sur Mer that Maillol, delayed for a good eight years. The idea was describing his war memorial, said “….I have added conceived in 1912, the sculptor was to be Gustave the sad sentiment of war as I feel it. I would have Violet and among the patrons were Lord Roberts preferred a song of joy but it is the sense of sadness and General Joffre. The model Violet proposed was Violet’s magnificent War Memorial shows off the I have had to leave on this Banyuls rock, that I approved in 1913 but it was well into August 1920 full panoply of his artistic skills as an architect, a have linked to the sun, this sea and the beautiful before the giant granite blocks were hauled up ceramicist, a sculptor and an artist. For the countryside surrounding this spot.” from the valley by oxen and the heroic stone mason he chose hard and rugged stones saying... “Our It takes the form of a triptych. The centre panel is could begin working fourteen hour days in blazing race has never been aristocratic, it is the fruit of our one of his rare male figures. The striking and tragic summer sun. Local children watched, fascinated as soil, of the plain and the rocks biting into the sea. It naked soldier captures the essence of a man giving the final iron railings were sealed in place in holes shows the character of our vignerons, our shepherds his life for his country. Almost like a Christ on the filled with molten lead. and our fishermen…” From the massive monument, Cross, it exudes a universal sadness emphasised When the newly renovated Rigaud Beaux Arts a wander down the Allée Maillol passes a couple by the female figures on the two side panels. Museum opens in Perpignan next year the first of Maillol statues. Not to be missed is his La Mothers and wives, the older and younger women, major exhibition will be of the works of Gustave Mediterranée in the courtyard of the Hotel de mourning their lost menfolk. Violet, work that has, until now, been under- Ville or his Venus in the Place de la Loge. Violet is More of his work can be seen in the Musée recognised. This November is a good time to start responsible for the fronton of the College Jean Maillol, well signposted 4 km outside the town, set putting this right… Moulin and was the architect for the Maison in the beautiful valley that leads to Spain via the Col Escoffier on Place Arago. de Banyuls. Leaving Perpignan, head towards Elne where, Céret is an essential stopping place. Maillol’s high on the old town ramparts is a gentle Maillol War Memorial,“La Douleur,” and Violet’s Monument war memorial and also a bust of his friend, the to the Canal d’Arrosage are both typical of the local artist, Etienne Terrus. Set into the ramparts two sculptors’ work. Maillol was unhappy with the of the Cami de la Réal, where the Wednesday plinth, saying it needed to be lowered by twenty market is held, is a large terracotta bas relief by centimetres to arrive at the angle he intended for Violet depicting many of the scenes of everyday the figure’s chin. Unfortunately and to Maillol’s fury, agricultural Catalan life he so enjoyed sculpting. it was actually raised by twenty centimeters. It was A side trip to the cemetery of Ortaffa reveals not altered again. 34 35 Outfortheday... overlooking this beautiful tree but before you take the weight off your feet there’s a little treat on offer nearby that just might complete the moment. Over the road from the convent (about 50 metres down) is what looks like a pretty ordinary, and if I’m honest not especially appealing, sandwich/pizza/ café called Le Soleil de Tunis. Ignore the fast-food ambience and feast your eyes on the seductively scrummy on display. The north African variant of this traditional Greek/Turkish delicacy variously combines pistachios, dates, orange and lemon zest, , seeds and almonds all wrapped in melt-in-your-mouth-wafer-thin pastry steeped in and rose-water. The surroundings are not Michelin three star that’s for sure, but I can personally vouch for the fact that these delights are to die for, not to die from. Yield to your deepest desires and buy at least a couple of slices (one date and one pistachio variety would be my serving suggestion) grabbing a bottle of water and a couple of paper napkins while you’re Time out at the about it - essential for dealing with the aftermath of the yummiest but stickiest things in creation. Now go back to enjoy your forbidden fruit on PyramidsBy Simon Newman of Perpignan one of the benches in the pyramid and olive-tree the place. Having carried out this self-sacrificing tranquillity that is the courtyard of Notre-Dame task you can return to your city-centre agenda with If you are visiting Visa pour l’Image this year in of old masonry in transparent containers. But for des Anges. And should you feel any twang of guilt a spring in your step and your head held high. Perpignan, you might just want to take time out me what makes it work is the sharp contrast in at your small indulgence, consider that in less One thing to note. This being a French tourist from the bustle for ten minutes to recharge for form and texture between the glass pyramids and enlightened times those long-suffering, hair-shirted attraction it is of course closed lunchtime but to the next foray. the crumbling stonework housed within. In fact Franciscans had to exist on a diet of gruel and twigs be fair, only from 12.30 to 13.15 - which in France Just a couple of hundred metres from the there’s more than a touch of the Louvre museum so really all you’re doing is realigning the karma of barely qualifies as a ciggie break. Palais de Justice lies Notre-Dame des Anges, the concourse in Paris about this juxtaposition of the 13th century Franciscan convent built by those classic and the contemporary. seemingly ever-busy bees, the Majorcan Kings. It Soak up the atmosphere, read the storyboards spent some time as a military hospital too and of and enjoy the frescos before moving across to Absolutely Almost All you need to know its type the site is interesting enough but what the the other side of the courtyard where you’ll find a about the Pyrénées Orientales tourist guide makes little mention of is something shaded rest area amongst lemon trees and what that I think gives it its greatest appeal – its serene must surely be one of the oldest olive trees in Absolutely Almost All You Need to Know courtyard. France. about the Pyrenees-Orientales. Lavishly You don’t have to pay to enter this part, just And so tactile you just want to run your hands illustrated with its lively blend of information and walk through the gates and immediately to your over its deeply fissured bark knowing that this essential facts, Jane and Kate’s guide book is a must right is the free exhibition area where you’re living, breathing entity could easily have given have for lovers of the P-O. Pick one up at most confronted with, well, you could say it’s just a load witness to Napoleon. There are some benches Maisons de la Presse, or online at 36 www.lespresseslitteraires.com 37 TestyourFrench 3 - Call me naughty if you wish, but I Some French phrases to 1 - R Pour RADAR! think everyone should know recognise… but NEVER to use Match up these words, all beginning with R, with their definitions. a little bit of ‘argot’ (slang) to your neighbour’s granny! (Why not try to work them out first without looking at their equivalents?)a ranger Match up these slang verbs with Tu as grossi Coup de vent fort 1 You’ve put on weight 2 b raie their English meanings Exprimer son mécontentement c rayure Tu pues de la gueule 3 chopper 1 a to break, damage Your breath stinks Qui ne pardonne pas facilement d rarement Oiseau au bec crochu 4 chialer 2 b to understand Arrete de me cracher dessus quand e rafale tu parles! Contraire de souple 5 flipper 3 c to sleep 6 f râteau piger 4 d to stink Stop spitting on me while you’re Trace laissée par un objet pointu rapace talking 7 g gonfler 5 e to catch râler Est-ce que tu as bu? Outil à dents pour ramasser les feuilles 8 h papoter 6 f to go mad Mettre à sa place rancunier Have you been drinking? 9 I vadrouiller 7 g to chat Presque jamais J raide Fais-le toi-même Poisson plat 10 se planter! 8 h to cry Do it yourself. roupiller 9 I to stare Parle à mon cul, ma tête est malade Tongue twister (Virelangue) mater 10 j to make a mistake It’s like talking to a wall Blague Bebête bousiller 11 k to roam about Tu devrais poursuivre ton tailleur en Deux icebergs discutent (Répetez trois fois) schlinguer 12 l to annoy justice Alors j’ai entendu dire que ta femme à Trois tortues trottaient You should sue your tailor accouché? tristement sur trois Oui, on a eu un beau petit glaçon! Définition bébête (j’ai entendu dire – I hear.. toits étroits!. Cheap at half the price? accoucher - to give birth glaçon - ice cube)” Porte-clefs… One of the world’s first real ‘department stores’ was Le Invention très pratique qui permet de Bon Marché in Paris, designed by Gustav Eiffel. Of course, perdre toutes ses clefs d’un seul coup as an adjective, bon marché means cheap – doesn’t 2 - Proverbs au lieu de les perdre une par une. sound quite so chic when you think about it does it? Here Can you match up these French proverbs with their English equivalents? (Porte-clefs - key ring qui permet – which allows un are a few more useful phrases when looking for a bargain seul coup – in one go au lieu de – instead of) 1 Il faut casser le noyau pour a Don’t count your chickens un bon rapport qualité-prix - good value avoir l’amande before they hatch. un meilleur rapport qualité-prix - better value 2 Qui dort dîne b Never say never. Blague nulle une bonne affaire - good deal 3 Il ne faut pas vendre la peau de c Experience always wins the day. Une lettre e parle avec une lettre é. une mauvaise affaire - bad deal Tu peux répéter, je ne comprends rien un prix avantageux - bargain price l’ours avant de l’avoir tué d No pain, no gain avec ton accent! pas cher - inexpensive 4 On n’apprend pas à un vieux e You can’t teach an old dog new singe à faire des grimaces tricks. 5 L’habit ne fait pas le moine f Every cloud has a silver lining Isabelle & Christophe Cô - Agence des Albères 6 Il ne faut jamais dire “Fontaine, g An apple a day keeps the Comprehensive “Top-Up” Health Insurance je ne boirai pas de ton eau’ doctor away No medical questionnaire required 7 Un bouillon de chou fait perdre h There is no such word as ‘can’t.’ Assurance Vie - savings plans au médecin cinq sous Up to 30% discount I He who sleeps forgets his with this advert Car Insurance Worldwide Travel Pet Insurance 8 Impossible n’est pas français. hunger. Home Insurance Insurance Internet Banking 9 j Don’t judge a book by its BP 7, 84 Avenue des Albères 04 68 89 72 75 66740 Saint Genis des Fontaines [email protected] 10 Après la pluie, le beau temps cover. Ample free parking 38 For advice in English & details of special offers & promotions speak to Christophe ORIAS No 0701386 et 07013871 39

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Test your french - answers - french your Test

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ONLINE TEST FREE For further details call Tracey on Tracey call details further For

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Put your clocks back clocks your Put

We miss our friend our miss We 2

language barrier and enjoy life in France to the full. the to France in life enjoy and barrier language

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conversation classes we can help you overcome the the overcome you help can we classes conversation

expression

forget to start off with the person or thing being missed being thing or person the with off start to forget

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he’s crying he’s – pleure Il

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it’s raining it’s – pleut Il

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needs, levels & abilities & levels needs,

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blague blague

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brush stroke brush l

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10 d’oeil coup un phone call phone j

9 vent de coup un sun burn sun I

8 tête de coup un stab (wound) stab h

dessus tombé est nous Il 10 I broke down broke I j

7 pinceau de coup un glance g

panne en tombé suis Je 9 I knocked it over it knocked I I

6 feu de coup un gust (of wind) (of gust f

8 l’eau à tombé C’est It fizzled out/fell through out/fell fizzled It h

5 vache en coup un head butt head e

7 bien tombe Ca He hit the nail on the head the on nail the hit He g

4 fil de coup un kick kick d

6 tomber fait l’ai Je He fell for it! for fell He f

3 barre de coup un sudden tiredness sudden c

5 juste tombé est Il Forget it, never mind never it, Forget e

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1 couteau de coup un a dirty trick trick dirty a a

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4 The following French expressions all use the verb ‘tomber’ Can you you Can ‘tomber’ verb the use all expressions French following The

- French your Test AméliorezvotreAnglais Good Body Language To burp – roter Encore un peu d’argot.. .. Pardon me, I burped 1 - Trouvez la bonne traduction Advice Vous ne savez 1 a C’est de qualité douteuse Don’t waste jamais quand Have a bash money on To dribble – baver 2 b J’étais très impressionné vous aurez Careful, you’re dribbling again! He’s a bit of an anorak expensive iPods. It’s a bit iffy 3 c Je vais vomir besoin de ce Just think of To sneeze – éternuer He’s skiving 4 d Calme-toi your favourite vocabulaire ! 5 e Essayez ! I’m going to sneeze…. I was blown away song and hum it. Ah, ah ah, atchooo. Bless you ! Chill out! 6 f On va boire un coup vite fait ? waste

You crack me up! 7 g C’est un type ennuyeux, pas cool gaspiller To have hiccups – avoir les hoquets (okay)

That’s wicked 8 h C’est génial hum Oh no, I’ve got hiccups again ! I Tu me fais rire fredonner I’m going to throw up To spit – cracher 10 J Il évite le travail Time for a swift one? Keep your distance – he spits when he talks !

Ouch! Et pendant qu’on parle ‘body language’, Useful Daft joke 3 - trouvez les équivalents de ces expressions avec What do snakes do after expression That English les parties du corps they have a fight? Useful word Hold your horses humour! Hiss and make up. And Bob’s your 1 Dominé - under the ---- 4 Malheureux - down in the Wait !. I woke up last night 2 Discuter – to have a __ ---- to find the ghost Another daft joke uncle! wag 5 Se taire - bite your ---- of Gloria Gaynor What’s red and flies and Et voilà! (le 3 Changer d’avis – to have 6 Bonne chance – Break standing at the foot wobbles at the same time? a change of ____ a-----! of my bed. At first A jelly copter! tour est joué) I was afraid...then (wobbles – tremble) a leg b chin c heart d mouth e tongue f thumb I was petrified 4 - R - is for Rap Trouvez les définitions des mots suivants, qui commencent tous 2 - Time is money! - Ces expressions anglaises concernent ‘time and avec la lettre R money’. Pouvez vous trouver leur équivalent en Français? rainbow 1 a decay or go bad Avec peu de moyens Twenty-four seven 1 a robin 2 b stop working Virelangue 2 b Radin c not cooked Penny-pinching rash 3 (Répetez trois fois) 3 c Quand les poules auront des dents d ready to eat Keep the wolf from the door raspberry 4 4 d Barbe d’un jour e arc of colours Long legged Never in a month of Sundays retire 5 5 e Gagner beaucoup d’argent en peu de temps ripe 6 f pay to use a room, house etc ladies love long Chicken feed/ peanuts g red spots on skin. Make a killing 6 f Gagner assez pour manger et vivre. rubbish 7 legged lads! h fat little bird For ages 7 G Tout le temps rent 8 I soft, sweet, red berry Loan shark 8 h Usurier rot 9 Somme d’argent dérisoire raw 10 j waste material

Five o’clock shadow 9 I

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3 -1f 2b 3c 4d 5e 6a 5e 4d 3c 2b -1f 3 On a shoestring 10f 9c 8h 7i 6d j5 4 3a 2g 1e - 1 42 43 OvertheBorder... Reasons to visit 9Girona with The electrical experts! Girona has all the charm and feel of a bigger city but without the bustling crowds. It’s a perfect size for a day trip, an overnight or a weekend break. During the TV, HiFi, Multimedia, day, stroll the ancient streets of the old city and La Domestic Appliances. Rambla, visit the Cathedral, browse the shops on the streets around the Carrer de Santa Clara, or have tapas Supply and installation in one of the many fine restaurants on the magnificent Plaça de la Independencia. of TV aerials and satellite Southern French towns and cities are typically very dishes quiet after 8pm but Girona comes alive in the evening to a cacophony of the sounds of people socialising and enjoying themselves. Steeped in Catalan culture and Speed radar detectors traditions, Girona has plenty to offer at night with a very now in stock active theatre, lots of festivals throughout the year and busy bars, restaurants and cafes. All installations, repairs & after sales With Frogbus’ special return fare of ONLY €9* and 6 return services daily, hop to Girona city from Le Boulou/ services are carried out by our Perpignan in just over an hour and enjoy a relaxing day out own team of experienced, English or short break without the hassle and expense of driving, paying for parking or needing to appoint a designated speaking technicians driver! (*Standard online return fare) Operating instructions fully explained in English Did you know? • There are 6 museums in Girona city Unrivalled range of all leading brands at the very best prices • Girona has 2 of the world’s top 10 restaurants and 6 in the top 100 • Tuesday and Saturday are market days in Girona with a fantastic mix of locally produced Catalan food and exotic fare • Girona’s famous cathedral took 7 centuries to construct. Frogbus’ €9 return fare is less than the price of the motorway tolls (€15.20) never mind the cost of fuel and parking! Don’t Forget ! Frogbus continues to serve Girona airport and has recently added routes to Andorra from Barcelona, Toulouse & Girona 04 68 83 19 62 [email protected] 44 Zone commerciale E. Leclerc 66160 Le Boulou 45 Un bon mariage serait celui Frenchlife... d’une femme aveugle et d’un homme sourd (Montaigne) you are not already married, and can be obtained Our wedding was many years ago. aveugle - blind sourd - deaf from the consulate. Useful vocab The celebration continues to this day ZCertificat de Coutume. (downloadable at www. Gene Perret fco.gov.uk) This is a statement from a solicitor to Stag night - enterrement de vie de jeune garçon certify that you are both free to marry and your hen night - enterrement de vie de jeune fille marriage will be recognised in your country of Toast - lever son verre/trinquer residence. ZMedical certificate. A medical examination fiançailles - engagement including blood test must be carried out by a guest - invité/e French or Embassy approved doctor. honeymoon - lune de miel ZJustificatifs de Domicile Some kind of proof, several-tier - pièce montée such as a utility bill, that one of you has been un mariage civil a civil wedding resident in France for at least 40 days. bride - la mariée Z Certificat du Notaire - This is only if you wish for groom - le marié a prenuptial agreement. newly-wed - jeune marié/e Banns must be published at the mairie where witness - le témoin the marriage will take place. The wheels of French best man - le garçon d’honneur A marriage made in Heaven - bureaucracy are not always speedy so it is essential bridesmaid - la demoiselle d’honneur that you contact the mairie well in advance to check getting married in France! out their documentary requirements (not all mairies wedding….. will ask for ALL the above documents). ...day - jour des noces; Every wedding celebrates a love story, but Value for money So….great value for money, fine cuisine, sunshine, ...dress - robe de mariée getting married in the south of France has to And of course, as we know, man (and woman) good quality wine…and a great atmosphere. (After ...night - nuit de noces rate up there at the top of the list of dream does not live on love alone and much as we would all, your guests are on holiday too!) No contest really. ...reception - repas de mariage wedding destinations, the on the gateau love to splurge freely, price is a VERY important Organising a wedding abroad can be somewhat ...ring - alliance - and it’s not so difficult to do, once you know factor. There is less hype in the French wedding challenging of course, so hiring someone over here ...vows - vœux the options. industry compared to Britain. Caterers, cake makers, to take care of all the details and do all the hard A marriage performed under French law is car hire and photographers don’t add on that extra work, will leave you free to enjoy the day. And it is recognised in the UK so this gives you the choice percentage for weddings, in the knowledge that actually much cheaper than you would expect. of having the whole wedding, both legal ceremony we will pay whatever it takes for that perfect day, so and reception, in France. The civil ceremony is the an average reception in France is far cheaper. The Wedding Planner – Coup de Coeur only legally binding part of a marriage, although Wedding planner Jennifer Lopez, in the film of romantic, Laurence many follow it with a religious wedding. Paperwork the same name, said “Are you aware that Fran Segura was saddened If you do choose the whole marriage in France, has chosen teal for her bridesmaids? Teal, the to see so many friends Having your gateau and eating it! bear in mind that French paperwork should never colour of gangrene. ... matrimonial suicide” stressing and panicking However, because of France’s residency be underestimated! With heavy workloads and high stress levels, about the ‘big day’ so in requirements, (see below), many non residents Documents needed for the civil ceremony many couples have neither the time nor energy to 2005, ‘Coup de Coeur’, the choose to have the legal ceremony in their own (only originals or certified copies accepted) mastermind that Perfect Day, a début celebration region’s first professional country, followed by a fantastic Mediterranean ZPassport of the rest of their lives together. OK, it’s true. When wedding planning wedding reception with blessing, a celebration of a ZFull birth certificate (issued within three it comes to love, you can never really plan what’s company was born. From life full of sunshine ahead. months of your marriage date.) going to happen in the future, but a good wedding her ‘wedding planning HQ’ in Céret, This also means that those unable to travel will ZCertificat de Celibat. (downloadable at www. planner can certainly make sure that you get the Laurence has delivered hundreds of wildly differing not miss out on the wedding itself. fco.gov.uk) The Certificate of Celibacy states that best possible start. Dream Weddings. 46 A hopeless, yet amazingly calm level-headed To find out more call 06 28 26 15 63 47 P-OLife... Ari Hantke DPLG Lets us help you Member of the French Ordre create your own des Architectes since 1976 Building Design | Interior Design Survey and Feasibility | Building Permits Building Site Management www.ari-architecture.com Consultancy, Advice, Assistance 18 Place Belieu · 66660 Port-Vendres [email protected] | Tél: 06 74 81 11 43

Total Property Management • Bilingual organisation of renovation and decoration projects Wedding Planner • Property & project management • Planning permission What could be more romantic that getting [email protected] married in the South of France? www.tpm66.com +33 (0)6 75 46 93 65 We off er a individual, tailor made professional wedding planning service ensuring that your Dream Wedding comes true From arranging the actual ceremony, taking care of the legal side of things, organising your reception, stationery, fl owers, photography, cars … All you have to do is say “Yes” For the perfect day call Laurence on 06 28 26 15 63 www.laurencesegura.com [email protected] 48 49 Frenchlife... English Speaking Chloé (Céret) Hairdresser Hé bien, cela me Ladies, Gents & Children Styling for special Miss-used, or just fait trés plaisir que occasions - weddings, les gens m’appellent parties, communions... mademoiselle, cela me rajeunit, c’est comme Open Monday – Friday: 9am to 6pm miss-understood? Saturday: 9am to 4pm I have often been called a proper little Madame, s’ils n’avaient pas vu mes Closed Wednesday and that was well before I became a real one! rides... 04 68 29 78 74 In fact, until the , Madame, (my Lady, equivalent to Je ne trouve pas sexiste qu’une femme 30 av Jean Jaures, 66330 CABESTANY Monsieur, my Lord) was mainly used to address the bourgeoisie, whilst prenne le nom de son mari; c’est un signe Mademoiselle, (my Damsel) was the form of address used for both younger d’Amour. Je trouve ridicule qu’une femme and older ‘common’ ladies. Young, unmarried men were addressed as veuille absolument garder son nom de jeune Cheminées ‘damoiseau’, which translates roughly as squire, but this disappeared from fille. Quelle importance….? common usage over a century ago. la Gaieté du Feu The Region’s Heating Stove Experts In 1690, a dictionary defined Mademoiselle as a ‘name given to all girls who Martina (Perpignan) are not married, provided they are not the dregs of the people, or daughters Par principe, je pense BIO-ETHANOL HEATERS - The stylish, of Artisans’. Perish the thought that we might feel obliged to even converse que l’on ne devrait pas clean, ecological way to heat your with the dregs of the people - or worse, artisans!! faire de distinction home & patio. Anyway, as we know, the Revolution wasn’t the best time to be boasting de statut. Ce n’est pas Plus an unrivalled range fait pour les hommes, of traditional log and about one’s noble origins, and it was at this defining language by abolishing masculine and feminine pourquoi le faire pour les pellet burners. point in French history, that Madame came simply agreements! femmes? to refer to a married lady and Mademoiselle an There can be no doubt that the french language Pour moi, le titre de Mademoiselle ou unmarried lady. is a little ‘male’ heavy. In fact, the masculine form Madame est associé à l’âge. Dans les mœurs, At the beginning of the year, French Prime of adjectives grammatically trumps all. If one fat dire madame à une jeune femme de 18 ou 20 Minister François Fillon directed Prefectures man and 5,000 buxom wenches were stranded ans me semble déplacé. to remove discriminatory and inflammatory on a dessert island, they would still be described Les “génies de la grammaire” feraient bien de To fi nd out more visit our showroom vocabulary such as ‘nom de jeune fille’ (maiden collectively as ‘gros’, the masculine adjective, and se mettre à jour, les choses ont bien changé 2480 Av Julien Panchot name) or nom d’épouse (married name) from not ‘grosses’ in the feminine. depuis le 17ème siècle! KM 3, route de Thuir 66000 PERPIGNAN official documents and the title Mademoiselle now Not surprising really when you learn that hangs in the balance. Men are never asked to state grammaticians who helped set the gender rules 04 68 54 13 33 their marital status. Why should women? for modern french in the 17th century, said; “The www.gaiete-du-feu.com Useful vocabulary Maiden name boxes are now deemed politically male is the most noble, he must prevail whenever cela me fait plaisir que - I like it that…. incorrect and an ‘intrusion into women’s private masculine and feminine appear in the same cela me rajeunit - makes me feel younger life’. For economy’s sake of course, old forms will sentence”. Yeah, right! rides - wrinkles prenne (subjunctive of prendre) - takes continue to be used until supplies run out. Well, personally I like having doors opened for veuille - (subjunctive of vouloir) - wants to And for linguists amongst you, and those me, I enjoy being treated like a lady, and I’m proud statut - status struggling to make sense of the French language of my hard earned ‘Little Madame’ status. But that’s mœurs - customs, way of life on a daily basis, you might be interested to just me! déplacé - inappropriate know that, even as we speak, the militants of the génie - genius mettre à jour - get up to date linguistic and feminist struggle are busy sending We asked some french friends how important it siècle - century out petitions proposing a total neutering of the was to be addressed by the correct term 50 51 P-OLife...

The Pat Line the safety of the British Consulate by PR In January 1943, the line was infiltrated by In a previous edition of P-O Life, we spotlighted French double agent, Roger Le Neveu, and O’Leary the Comet line and Belgian heroine, Andreè de was arrested by Gestapo. Jongh, who helped around 400 allied escapers and Even under torture, he gave nothing away. evaders to cross the northern Pyrenees into Spain. He was sentenced to death in Dachau but In fact, there was a busier and even more successful fortunately the SS guards surrendered to the allies escape route here in the P-O, the Pat Line, named before the sentence was carried out. after the man who set up this reliable escape route The Pat line continued for a while, led by Marie for as many as 600 evaders. Amongst these was Dissard, but the Germans were becoming more , former Conservative MP, and escapee efficient at breaking and infiltrating the lines, with from Colditz, who stayed in a safe house in Port the help of alleged British traitors such as Harold Vendres. “Paul” Cole. Believed to have betrayed up to 150 Pat O’Leary, real name, Albert Guerisse, was a men including Garrow and Guerisse, he became Belgian medical officer in the Cavalry regiment, who wanted as the Worst Traitor of the War. escaped to Britain via Dunkirk. Recruited as a Royal Naval Volunteer Reserve, he worked dangerous Reverend Donald Caskie fled his Scottish church ALBERT GUERISSSE was awarded the George missions escorting agents onto french soil in small in Paris when his loudly expressed anti nazi views Cross, rejoined the Belgian army and served vessels, dodging the Vichy defences and patrols.. put him on the enemy radar. He took over the in Korea before retiring as a Major General. He In April 1941, en route to recruit agents for S.O.E. Seaman’s Mission at Number 46 Rue de Forbin, died in Belgium 26 March 1989 aged 77. (Special Operations Executive) in Collioure, his boat , which soon became the biggest ‘safe IAN GARROW died in Scotland in 1976 after a sank and he was captured when he swam ashore. house’ in France - and probably the worst kept distinguished war career with S.O.E. and MI9. Claiming he was Canadian to his Vichy captors, in secret. DONALD CASKIE was sentenced to death by order to protect his family in Belgium, he took on Escapers were generally sent down a system of firing squad but after speaking with a German the name of former military colleague, Pat O’Leary. ‘safe houses’ in Narbonne, then Perpignan, staying pastor, had his sentence commuted. He spent Interned in St Hippolyte Fort near Nimes, he met close to the border in small villages such as Port the rest of the war as a POW. He returned to fellow S.O.E. man, Ian Garrow, who introduced him Vendres, to await their guides, who were mainly Scotland in 1951 and was awarded the OBE as on his release to Nancy Wake, British agent and Spanish. Some were taken across the border via well as honours from the French government. leading figure in the . He joined them in small tracks like the Col de Banyuls, others were He died in Greenock in 1983. helping escapers to safety. picked up by ships and submarines waiting off Traitor HAROLD COLE was hunted down, When Garrow was captured in October 1941, the beach at Canet. Most, however, crossed the shot, and buried in an unmarked grave in O’Leary, as he was now known, took over the Pyrenees and were taken to where Spanish Paris. escape line and organized it into an effective route. rail workers would help them get to Barcelona and

“Il suffit de chanter un chant de paix avec grimace et gesticulation pour qu’il devienne un chant de guerre” Jean Giraudoux

52 53 P-OLife...

with legend of the knights Templar, to read their ancient calendars, explained Cathars, Jerusalem, the tomb of Jesus that the doom and gloom predictions and Marie-, the Holy Grail.... and misinterpretations of the Mayan What better region for a miracle? calendar are wrong. According to Leonzo, In 2011, there were over 20,000 visitors December 21st, 2012 simply marks the to this tiny village of 200 inhabitants. end of the 5,125-year-long Mayan Long With its sad past of cults committing Count calendar, at which point a new mass suicide, France’s sect watchdog, calendar cycle will begin. Miviludes, is keeping an eye on the area. He adds, “The beginning of the cycle is But don’t despair! In December 2011, something to celebrate, not fear.” Bugarach - not the end of the world. Leonzo Barreno, trained by Mayan elders Phew. What a relief. According to an ancient Mayan calendar, shattering event programmed to take the world will come to an end towards the place on that date. end of 2012. Unless you live in Bugarach! House prices have shot up of course. The village in the lies at the A house estimated at 260 000 € is at foot of Pic de Bugarach, a 1,230 metres present for sale at 474 000 €. mountain peak and the highest summit One hopeful has applied to the mayor For all your insurance needs in the Corbières mountains. The Pic, also to set up a therapy centre for ‘lavement known as the “upside down mountain” intérieur’ a chance to cleanse the soul from a name you can trust has top layers which are millions of years before departing this mortal coil, very older than the lower strata, as if someone similar to a colonoscopy, but much more tossed the mountain in the air, flipped it expensive! WORLDWIDE TRAVEL Great discounts available around, and dropped it back. This limestone region has many HOME & BUSINESS for families, no medical On 21st December 2012 the date caves and underground caverns, questionnaires or age limits. predicted for the Apocalyse, there an underground network largely ASSURANCE VIE is already no room at the inn. Gîtes, unexplored, an underground river For policies designed to meet chambres d’hôtes, and campsites, flowing as far west as Salses. Some PET have been swamped with advance believe that within these ‘grottes’, aliens your individual needs and budgets, bookings, and the mayor is turning down are awaiting the 21 December 2012, to CAR chat with our English speaking applications from and pizza vans destroy the earth and whisk away a select advisors today. hoping to make a few last quid out of the few humans, the chosen few, who will be HEALTH gullible. spared the Apocalypse. Known by locals as ‘les zozotériques’, Of course, myth and magic is a bit of a Get the Aviva Deal! many of these people believe that the speciality in this Aude valley, linked as it Dimitri Simone village will be a refuge from the End is with -le-Château and Rennes- of the World, or a stage for some earth les-Bains, mystically renowned and rife CÉRET - 17 av Clemenceau PRADES - 7 Rue Jean Jaurès 04 68 87 04 83 04 68 96 38 73 54 55 Things you might need to know... Perpignan – Barcelona in 50 minutes? Danger: New European Too Good to be Vrai? Hunters driving license If you were hoping to pop into Barcelona for tapas, at large then home for Coronation Street this year, you might be For your security, do check with the local A European driving license, with an electronic chip, disappointed. town hall or ACCA (hunting association) is on the cards for 2013, to enable European police Whilst the Spanish authorities still hope the first train where the designated boar hunting areas are forces to access data from all European drivers. on the new TGV Perpigan - Barcelona line will run at during the hunting season. Permitted from New licenses will have a photo, to be updated every the end of 2012, they are now admitting that a ’légère mid-August to the end of January, it can be 15 years, and will contain relevant personal details variation de calendrier’ might be on the cards! dangerous and frightening to find yourself in and info such as points. It will also provide a long the vicinity of an organised boar hunt (une discussed opportunity for France to bring in medical battue). Warning signs should be put up at examinations to check out fitness to drive for elderly Looking for all entrances to woodland but this law is not drivers. At present, there is no age limit. One man’s trash…. always enforced as strictly as it should be. If you have swapped your British driving license for …. is another man’s treasure. If you happen a ride? a French one, you will be expected to change to the to notice old fridges, bike frames or bathtubs www.covoiturage.fr is a new digital style next year. lying around on a certain day every month, it’s carpool site which allows you European sharing of “les monstres” time. to search for drivers travelling It’s electrifyin’ Check with your local town hall for this day all over France and hitch Visit www.edf-bleuciel.fr and click on driving licence registration when you can put outsize items next to your a ride, or offer one. Simply ‘Foreign residents’ in the top right to find information bin for collection. It is not uncommon to see type in your departure date, out all about your electricity bill and supply, From 2013, thanks (?) to EUCARIS (EUropean CAR local kids (sometimes accompanied by a Mum town and destination, to see pay your bill or submit your electricity meter and driving license Information System), all European or Dad) wandering round on ‘monster’ night, to a list of people offering lifts, readings online – in English. countries will be able to share their car and driving check out the neighbours’ rubbish. or register your own offer. licence registration information. Whether you are You can stipulate how much driving an English car in France or a French car in contribution you expect for Spain, this multilingual programme will catch up with petrol, how many places you you for using phone while driving, speeding, going Drawing blood have available, whether dogs through red light, parking violations…... If you have your blood pressure taken in are allowed, and even whether France, and have difficulty interpreting it, just you will be expected to chat or add a zero to each, and hey presto, you have the just sit in silence! UK measures. For example, if le medecin says New ’radars-tronçons’ Grand Frère is watching you you are 14/8, that is 140/80 in UK money! Watch out for a new breed of radar, which Perpignan street cameras, originally set up to monitors your average speed between two specific fight crime and identify trouble makers, will now In case of motorway points over several kilometres. These new ’radars- also be used to hand out parking fines for parking break down…. tronçons’ will be indicated by a flashing speed on zebra crossings, double parking, use of bus lanes reminder and a sign with ’contrôle radar frequent’ etc identified on central screens. If you breakdown on the motorway, do not contact approximately 1or 2 kilomètres before the first Warning signs have been set up at the end of your insurance breakdown service as only motorway radar tronçon. the road with ’verbalisation par vidéosurveillance’. approved breakdown vehicles are allowed on the For the time being, they will mainly be installed Offenders will be fined ’at the discretion’ of the motorways. Contact the emergency services from an in accident hot spots where it is difficult to install police officer on the other side of the camera, who orange emergency phone, and they will contact an fixed or mobile radars, but many more are expected will decide whether to send the pictures to the approved breakdown service, who will explain the in the future. processing centre in Rennes. Offenders will receive 56 procedure to follow with your insurance company. a ticket in the post within 4-5 days. 57 P-OLife... Private For all your DIY, building Who to contact & decoration requirements Property Sales ask for one of the 10+ in an Emergency english speaking assistants Mas Pujol Del Mitg – Vallespir Opening Hours SAMU (medical emergency) 15 Peace & tranquility in the heart of the countryside Main Store Police emergency 17 Superb sympathetically restored Catalan farmhouse Le Mas Galté Monday to Saturday with family home and 3 successful gites Centre Commercial Auchan 8h00 - 20h00 non stop Fire service emergency 18 650,000€. Details & Photos: Route d’Espagne Perpignan Building Materials ◗ o Annual or seasonal European emergency line 112 www.maspujol-delmitg.com tel: 04 68 95 75 68 English speaking phone N : Monday to Saturday maintenance contracts 04 68 98 47 41 7h00 - 20h00 non stop SOS Doctor 24/24 08 20 20 41 42 ◗ Carry out one-off cleans Emergency vet 04 68 55 55 83 donnez des ailes à la recherche ◗ Deal with green pools Anti-poison centre 04 91 75 25 25 Property Management & ◗ Repair, upgrade & maintain Perpignan hospital 04 68 61 66 33 Sales in Pyrenees Orientales Pyrénées Languedoc Roussillon CPAM (English spk serv) 0811 36 36 46 All year round www.enfantsetsante-plr.com Cancer support France 04 68 69 01 37 services and support Combating childhood cancer and leukemia [email protected] Directory enquiries 118 008 Visit the website and contact me to nd out more Cure more - Cure better Ruby Goold - 06 38 73 15 62 www.tpm66.com International www.lesjoursheureux66.com Help us to save lives +33 (0)6 75 46 93 65 directory enquiries 118 700 www.enfantsetsante-plr.com International Mastercard 08 00 90 13 87 Local weather forecast 08 36 68 02 66 GDF (gas problems) 08 10 43 30 66 Cancer Support France EDF (electricity problems) 05 56 17 40 70

Sud de France (11,09,66) You can use the The European emergency number 112 in any EU country from any telephone. You do not need a Supporting those whose lives card or money to ring this number from a pay phone. 112 have been touched by cancer may also be used from a mobile to connect you with all This September we are celebrating 10 years of CSF in France emergency services. with events across the department! Come and support us at Qualifi ed Electrician these events so we can continue to support others. DROP IN to our informal Emergency repairs Standard upgrades Palais des Congrès, Perpignan Cancergroups Supportat Céret and Prades FranceWednesday 19th September Tuesday 23rd September Thursday 26th September Sud de France (11,09,66)10.30am to Midday at CERET 10.30am to Midday at CAFÉ 12.30pm at LIZZIE’S KITCHEN, Security check Air conditioning organises events, exhibitions, salons, concerts Céret: Pablo’s Bar, Place Coff ee Morning with book stall, DES ARTISTES, LAROQUE DES ILLE SUR TÊT Wiring & rewiring Renewable energies and conferences throughout the year. Picasso - fi rst and third Bring and Buy, Home made ALBÈRES Book stall and small Lizzie is off ering us a light lunch Check out their website on Wednesday 10am to 12 noon produce...... display of paintings by local with glass of wine for just €12 Free estimates, meticulous worker. www.congres-Perpignan.com artist, Colin Dunster Prades: Café Alchimie, Rue For further details or to fi nd out how you can help “Cancer Support France – English spoken Hospice - fi rst and third Sud de France” or how we can support you and those close to you - contact: Please call Stéphane: Thursday 3pm to 5pm Penny on 04 68 38 81 28 [email protected] 485 131 577 Siret: Coff ee and a warm welcome 06 13 24 87 47 Throughout the region [email protected] awaits you www.cancersupportfrance.org 58 CSF - Sud de France (11,09,66) Association no. W 112000594 59 Englishspeakingservices...

Acupuncture & Natural Medicines Education & Translation Health & Well Being Elisa Jarry ...... 04 68 88 84 47 Alfmed - Perpignan & Céret...... 04 68 62 20 20 Elisa Jarry ...... 04 68 88 84 47 or 06 88 85 18 87 registered practitioner of natural medicines ...... or 06 88 85 18 87 registered practitioner of natural medicines Carole Cassoly - admin help / translation Stéphanie Jaeghers ...... 06 67 67 29 75 Roofing Prades area - [email protected]...... 06 11 44 15 95 Perpignan Chiropratique ...... 06.01.75.97.98 Traditional Chinese Medicine Christian Labau - English speaking Chiropractor Scaffolding Louise Sayers - France SOS...... 04 68 56 54 22 Translation & administrative service ...... 06 20 03 54 46 Stéphanie Jaeghers ...... 06 67 67 29 75 Accountants Heavy Structural Building Traditional Chinese Medicine PromoLangues - Céret ...... 04 68 87 48 10 AT & Associés...... 04 68 66 06 06 & Renovation Works English speaking accountants Roussilangues- French Classes - Bélesta, Estagel, Ille-sur-Têt Hearing Tests Registered & Insured www.roussilangues.com ...... 06 76 22 49 50 or 09 62 58 05 41 [email protected] Optique CIote Vermeille...... 04 68 85 12 92 Architects English speaking hearing tests ...... Port Vendre Estate Agencies Ari Hantke Architecture ...... 06 74 81 11 43 +33 (0)4 68 98 03 24 Med & Mountain Properties ...... 04 68 56 54 22 Heating & Insulation hussellbuilding.com www.medandmountain.com B & B - Hotels La Gaieté du Feu Stove specialists...... 04 68 54 13 13 P.O. Property Shop...... 06 60 36 25 20 Le Château de Riell ****...... 04 68 05 40 40 SARL Roussillon Developpements ...... 04 68 96 08 01 Molitg Les Bains ...... www.chateauderiell.com English-builders-66.com REAL Estates...... 04 68 83 19 50 Help in France www.real-estates.fr Le Grand Hotel ***...... 04 68 05 00 50 Tryba Doors, windows, conservatories...... 04 68 550505 Molitg Les Bains...... www.grandhotelmolitg.com Garages & Car Mechanics Pyrenean Trails - Les Angles ...... 04 68 04 37 28 Catteries, Kennels & Pet Sitting B&B, Gites & Mountain guide John Bret...... 06 22 95 94 49 Le Palais Des Chats...... 04 68 96 40 80 English speaking mechanic - All makes/models. Prades area Mike & Jenny Rhodes ...... [email protected] www.lepalaisdeschats.com...... 06 16 60 37 15 Pet Sitting & Dog Training...... 07 86 48 03 69 Anything, to make your life British Produce Garden Services The Asia Center Mas Guerido ...... 04 68 67 59 07 2G Paysage ...... 06 12 99 25 52 in France easier ... I can help Charities gardens A bilingual service to help you with all Cancer support France ...... 04 68 38 81 28 Building & Renovation Garden Services ...... 06 3468 1619 aspects of french admin and bureaucracy www.cancersupportfrance.org throughout PO - [email protected] Emmaus...... 04 68 54 59 60 La Main Vert...... 06 77 03 04 46 Donate any unwanted items fr.gaiadir.com/emmaus-pollestres Gardening, Landscaping & Tree felling throughout the PO 06 70 70 62 10 www.theevesolutions.com Enfants et Santé...... www.enfantsetsante-plr.com MSB Property Services...... 04 68 51 80 46 or 06 43 22 86 15 Fighting childhood cancers Carole Cassoly - admin help / translation Property Services 66...... 06 33 06 51 55 Prades area - [email protected]...... 06 11 44 15 95 Les Restos du Coeur ...... 04 68 85 04 53 Perpignan & coastal areas Provides food packages & free meals to the poor & homeless, organised Eve’Solutions...... 04 68 88 46 34 TPM - Maureillas...... 06 75 46 93 65 Ease your life in France...... 06 70 70 62 10 Est. 24 Years & served up by volunteers. email: [email protected] www.tpm66.com Registered in France Louise Sayers - France SOS...... 04 68 56 54 22 Translation & administrative service ...... 06 20 03 54 46 Repairs & Restoration Cleaning Services Gift Ideas Angie Nettoyage...... 04 34 10 29 06 Aubergine...... 06 25 18 18 10 Home & Decoration 04 68 95 62 49 | 06 45 38 82 88 Home & office cleaning...... 06 34 64 22 70 or Soft furnishing, curtains, upholstery& unique gifts Aubergine ...... 06 25 18 18 10 [email protected] Créatif Impression...... 06 31 52 99 71 made to measure curtains, upholstery ...... [email protected] Computer Help & Maintenance Photos printed onto canvass Patrick Boyle...... 04 68 87 17 35 Bulthaup...... 04 68 34 09 22 Ian Rye - builder - Elne ...... 04 68 39 75 45 Broadband installation, repairs, upgrades, advice www.les-alberes.net/ Stunning contemporary kitchens - Perpignan [email protected] systems Hair & Beauty Jamie Price...... 04 68 94 62 49 Sam’s Salon ...... 04 68 29 78 74 Keep up to date with all Building and Renovation...... 06 45 38 82 88 Dentists Tête à Têt - Mobile hairdresser Call Kay...... 06 71 32 90 560 the comings and P.O. Interiors ...... 06 72 42 07 04 Dr Armin Wachsmuth...... 04 68 54 28 50 goings throughout Renovation, refurbishment and carpentry English speaking – based in the region with Hussell Building...... 04 68 98 03 24 our FREE weekly www.hussellbuilding.com Drain Clearance newsletter. MSB Property Services...... 04 68 51 80 46 Subscribe today by Interior / exterior drain clearance ..... www.msbpropertyservices.com visiting our website www.anglophone- 60 direct.com and click 61 on the Subscribe link Englishspeakingservices...

Insurance Property & Project Management continued Le Grand Hotel *** ...... 04 68 05 00 50 Allianz Céret...... 06 43 80 73 51 Riverchurch Molitg Les Bains ...... www.grandhotelmolitg.com R.Estebe-Rigall...... [email protected] LE TRÉMAIL ...... 04 68 82 16 10 04 68 64 97 09 Home, Pool and Collioure ...... www.restaurant-letremail.fr Regine Estebe Rigall and her International English Garden Maintenance. team, off ers expert advice to Fully registered man, Loft cafe – Perpignan ...... 04 68 66 88 74 meet your individual needs. speaking church with a van that can! www.riverchurch.com Pool cleaning & testing, Surveyors Car, motor home, Assurance Vie – covers supplied & fi tted boat, motorbike... Savings Plans Pools Garden clearing, English Speaking Property Surveyor Home & Contents Worldwide Travel (All services available all maintenance & tidying Insurance Insurance Property Services 66...... 06 33 06 51 55 year round) Buying, Selling or Renting a Property? Perpignan & coastal areas General handy work & repairs Business Health Insurance Insurance TPM...... 06 75 46 93 65 Contact Mark on Drain Clearance We provide all diagnostic reports necessary Termites & parasites We speak cleaning, maintenance, accessories...... [email protected] Tel/Fax 04 68 51 80 46 or 06 43 22 86 15 to ensure a smooth completion: Damp Email: [email protected] Lead 04 68 87 00 84 MSB Property Services...... 04 68 51 80 46 or 06 43 22 86 15 For expert, independent 28 Place de la Liberté, 66400 Céret No Siret 479 317 620 00025 Electricity & gas Ample free parking nearby No ORIAS: 070222237 advice call Nicolas on Plumbers & Electricians Property Services 66...... 06 33 06 51 55 safety Languedoc Electrics...... 04 68 42 37 97 Perpignan & coastal areas 04 68 57 82 68 Asbestos Allianz -Prades, Vernet, Rivesaltes...... 04 68 96 31 50 06 86 03 06 82 Energy performance www.allianz.fr/charcos Robert Morley ...... 04 68 37 96 50 TPM - Maureillas...... 06 75 46 93 65 www.morleyrenovation.eu...... 06 80 34 45 17 www.tpm66.com AVIVA ...... Prades 04 68 96 38 73 [email protected] www.dei-expertises.com ...... Céret 04 68 87 04 83 AXA Insurance Collioure ...... 04 68 82 06 01 Electrical | Bathrooms For owners of Sky TV Installation AXA - St Génis - Cô...... 04 68 89 72 75 Kitchens | Tiling | Air Con Second Homes: British TV in France...... 04 68 69 83 76 in the Perpignan 06.82.10.55.35 ...... www.british-tv-in-france.co.uk Opticians and Coastal Skydigi...... 04 68 87 18 30 Port-Vendres ...... 04 68 85 12 92 areas • Property Management • Pool & Garden & Maintenance Maintenance PTIQUE –AUDITION 04 68 37 96 50 • Key Holding • Handyman Services CÔTE VERMEILLE 06 80 34 45 17 Feel free to call Alan on: [email protected] Opticians and Hearing Test Centre www.morleyrenovation.eu +33 (0)6.33.06.51.55 English Spoken [email protected] First Examination Free VNelec - Stephan ...... 06 13 24 87 47 Removals Unrivalled range of frames Walter v.d. Hoogen ...... 06 25 24 00 81 Van with human ...... 06 3468 1619 Hearing aids & accessories – free trials available English & Dutch speaking Electrician throughout PO - [email protected]

11 Bis Quai Forgas 04 68 85 12 92 PORT VENDRES Print & Design Blyth Spirit ...... www.blyth-spirit.com Britannia Sandersteads Places of Worship Websites, brochures, flyers, Signs & Vehicle graphics 00 44 (0)208 669 6688 Transport Fortnightly around France - Free quotes Frogbus ...... www.frogbus.com Anglican Church Property & Project Management APS - [email protected]...... 06 80 88 80 72 Restaurants & Bars Vernet-Les-BainS Keyholding,Cleaning,Maintenance Website Design & Hosting Auberge des Albères...... 04 68 89 88 38 Blyth Spirit ...... 04 68 05 86 71 Eve solution...... 06 70 70 62 10 ...... www.auberge-des-alberes.com Websites of all size and complexity...... www.blyth-spirit.com 04 68 96 24 58 Port-Vendres Service Every Sunday at 10am Chez Pujol...... 04 68 82 01 39 Les Jours Heureux 66...... 06 38 73 15 62 Port Vendres ...... www.chezpujol.com Wine & We look forward to seeing you Property management & marketing Le Château de Riell ****...... 04 68 05 04 40 V&B - Mas Guerido...... 04 68 86 36 68 Molitg Les Bains ...... www.chateauderiell.com .Wine & Beer Cave & Bar Le France...... 04 68 87 11 27 ADVERTISE IN OUR DIRECTORY Ceret From ONLY 90 EUROS (HT) per year - contact Michelle on 62 63 06 12 22 23 70 or email [email protected] Properties of charm throughout the Roussillon

Our Property Gallery is open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm, Sundays and Bank Holidays by appointment We look forward to welcoming you.

Céret: Third and top fl oor apartment, situated in a quiet area, yet only 2 mins walk from the town centre. Great views from 2 balconies. Very light, bright and spacious - plus added bonus of a ground fl oor cellar. Energy rating: C. Ref 702 158.000€

Céret: Situated in the popular Hauts de Céret , this property occupies one of the best positions in this very desirable location. Panoramic views across the lower Vallespir / Mediterranean sea, with hectare of grounds. Energy rating: D. Ref 680 520.000€

Saint Nazaire: Maison de Maître. Hidden oasis of calm & tranquillity. This rare, 230 year old house, is set in 4,000m² of land, in the centre of village. Currently a family home, but with vast potential for a variety of business opportunities . Energy rating: C. Ref 687 1,650.000€

If you are looking to buy or sell a property contact:

Real Estates SARL +33 (0)4.68.56.94.54 1 Place de la République www.real-estates.fr 66400 Céret [email protected] Carte Professionnelle: 66-2010-30-T • Caisse de garantie: QBE France 110.000 euros