P-OP-O Life LifeLife inin thethe Pyrénées-Orientales Pyrénées Orientales Out for the Day Battle of Le Boulou Walk The Region Paulilles to Banyuls-sur-Mer AMÉLIOREZ VOTRE ANGLAIS Autumn 2012 AND TEST YOUR FRENCH FREE / GRATUIT Nº 37 Your English Speaking Services Directory www.anglophone-direct.com Fond perdu 31/10/11 9:11 Page 1 Edito... Don’t batten down those hatches yet ‚ summer Register for our is most definitely not over here in the P-O and free weekly newsletter, we have many more long sunny days ahead. Lazy and stay up to date with WINDOWS, DOORS, SHUTTERS & CONSERVATORIES walks on deserted golden beaches, meanderings life in the Pyrénées-Orientales. www.anglophone -direct.com through endless hills, orchards and vines against a background of cloudless blue sky, that incredible Installing the very best since 1980 melange of every shade of green, red, brown and gold to delight Call or visit our showroom to talk the heart of artist and photographer, lift the spirits and warm the soul. with our English speaking experts. We also design Yes, autumn is absolutely my favourite time of the year with its dry warm days and and install beautiful cooler nights and a few drops of rain after such a dry summer will be very welcome! Unrivalled 30 year guarantee conservatories. We have dedicated a large part of this autumn P-O Life to remembrance, lest we ever forget the struggles and lost lives of the past which allow No obligation free quotation – Finance available subject to status us to sit on shady terraces in the present, tasting and toasting the toils of a land which has seen its fair share of blood, sweat and tears. Alongside interesting facts, entertainment listings, and language, exercises, Leigh and Merry take us on a fabulous coastal walk from Paulilles to Banyuls, John checks out the dwindling flight possibilities, and pops into the casino, Simon Newman relaxes amidst the Pyramids of Perpignan and Courtney O’Brien-Brown chats to Etiennette, the ‘witch’ of Castelnou. Don’t forget to visit our site at www.anglophone-direct.com to find out more about what‘s going on in the region, walks, restaurant reviews, and a whole load of other stuff. And, most important of all, we do hope your autumn is golden. Kate Contact us Advertising Magazine gratuit. Tout Droits réservés, e name To find out more about how your Reproduction interdite Unrivalled range you can trust business can benefit from advertising in Impression: Imprimerie du Mas Tirage: 9000 ex of high security PO Life and Anglophone Direct contact Ne pas jeter sur la voie publique - Anglophonedirect Michelle on 06 12 22 23 70 (advertising only) accepts no responsibility for the competency of windows people and services advertising in PO Life. [email protected] Concepteur et rédacteur: Kate www.tryba.com Editorial Maquette & Création: For editorial queries & comment www.blyth-spirit.com tel: 04 68 05 86 71 [email protected] 2 09 64 48 51 86 (editorial only) Cover photo: Steve Bumphrey Next to “Le Clos des Lys” restaurant and the car dealerships P-OLife... Index P-O Life distribution points ..........................................5 Pyramids of Perpignan ............................................ 36-37 Walk the region Paulilles to Banyuls-sur-Mer .. ........6-7 Test your French ...................................................... 38-41 Did you know?... ............................................................8-9 Améliorez votre Anglais ........................................ 42-43 Airport News... ......................................................... 10-11 Over the Border Traditions & Events................................................. 13-15 Girona with Frog bus ......................................................44 Food & drink Getting married in France!... ................................. 46-47 Restaurant review Le Cédrat Joacasino ................... 16-17 French Life Boles de Picoulat.... .........................................................20 Miss-used, or just miss-understood? ....................... 50-51 Witch of Castelnou .................................................... 22-23 The Pat Line .. ........................................................... 52-53 The sweet chestnut .........................................................27 Bugarach - not the end of the world. .. .................. 54-55 Out for the day Things you might need to know .......................... 56-57 The battle of Le Boulou… ....................................... 28-31 Emergency numbers ....................................................59 A Remembrance Day Out ......................................... 32-35 English Speaking Services .................................... 60-63 P-O Life can be found at the following main distribution points. P-O Life All main tourist offices and Palais des Congrès LifeLife in thethe Pyrénées-Orientales Pyrénées Orientales Argelès: Carrefour, Café Noisette Le Boulou: Expert, Leclerc, Intermarché Canet: Château Esparrou, Hyper Casino Walk the Region Racou to Cabestany: Asia Center, Mas Guerido Zoo Céret: Intermarché, Collioure bulthaup b3 Out for the day Murals of Timeless and classic. Carrefour Market, Bar Au Bon Coin, Real Estates - see p64, Allianz Maury P-O AMÉLIOREZLi VOTRE ANGLAIS - Céret - see p53 Collioure: Château Royal Elne: Champion LifeLife in thethe Pyrénées-Orientales PyrénéesAND Orientales TESTf YOURe FRENCH SPRING 2012 Your English Speaking Services Directory Inspired by our convictions. Ille sur Têt: Carrefour Market Laroque: Carrefour Market, Café FREE / GRATUIT Nº 35 www.anglophone-direct.com des Artistes Perpignan: Leroy Merlin, Loft Café A bulthaup kitchen combines the The passion for detail plays as important a role Pollestres: Intermarché Prades: Super U, Intermarché utmost individualism with precision. as the overall architectural concept. This is what Traditions and Events Pyrénées 2000: Casino Supermarket Thuir: Champion What’s on this summer? makes every bulthaup kitchen unique. It repre- Out for the Day Foothills of sents true, customized perfection tailored pre- Many of our advertisers also stock P-O Life, so remember to pick the AlbÈres SUMMER FREE / GRATUIT2012 Nº 36 AMÉLIOREZ VOTRE ANGLAIS AND TEST YOUR FRENCH cisely to the room and everyone that lives in it. up a copy the next time you’re in their shop, office or restaurant... Your English Speaking Services Directory www.anglophone-direct.com Tristano 4 rue de la République 66000 Perpignan T 04 68 34 09 22 www.bulthaup.com 4 5 b3_Alu_Bronze_0210_148x210_4c_C_EN.indd 1 21.05.12 15:52 Walktheregion... Un cactus demande à un autre : 510452E 4704380N, you can choose either to “Connais-tu le langage des turn right and downwards to the sea or short-cut hommes?” “Oui” répond l’autre cactus. “C’est through the trees straight ahead, which avoids facile. Ils disent tous AÏEEEEE! climbing back up to the path later. On exiting the trees and turning right, you emerge at the cliffs overlooking the sea, named Cap Castell de Velló. parallel to the coast, to Cap d’Ullastrell. You can find After admiring the impressive views of Banyuls to a very good description of this part in Ted and Kate the south and the waves rolling onto the rocks Hiscock’s walk at www.anglophone-direct.com/ below, retrace your steps inland about 80m and Walk-Banyuls-sur-Mer-to-Port “views across to turn left and follow the footpath northwards and Cap Bear in one direction and to Banyuls-sur-Mer La Côte Vermeille upwards. It is well marked with yellow paint. in the opposite direction whilst inland and behind P There is a fork in the footpath at a are Cosprons, Tour de Madeloc and to the left, semicircular car turning space at 510690E the three beaches, their ruined fortresses, concrete Paulilles to Banyuls-sur-Mer 4704690N, you should turn right here instead of excrescences from World War II and the admirably with Leigh and Merry Foster heading inland. (We didn’t and ended up having to adventurous development of the Conservation Site of climb over a drainage ditch, a familiar Foster tactic!) the Dynamite Factory of Paulilles.” Length: approx. 6.5 km circular walk. Time, approx 2 hrs. Well marked and Follow the footpath north down the low ridge P After crossing the Cap you reach a small signposted. Map reference IGN 2549OT 31N 509910E 4705560N road leading to Platja del This walk starts and ends at Paulilles, south of Port Vendres – the town has recently claimed the Forat, a seemingly forgotten beach for its own, but that does not change the unspoiled beauty of its pebble-dashed sands and pebbly beach fronted by a crystal clear blue water, nestling beneath immaculately terraced vines. handful of low houses. As you continue north, you have to leave Forat and P Start at the beach, or in high summer more eastwards, following the contours of the hillside follow the road behind the likely at the car park by the roundabout exit to in between vineyards and a conifer plantation. ruined factory to the larger Cosprons. Instead of following everyone towards Everywhere there are ancient – looking dry stone beach at Anse de Paulilles. the sea, head to the southern end of the car park terraces and carefully tended vines, and you are At the north end you follow where there is a footpath leading through part quickly lost in nature and surrounded by birdsong. a small creek inland about of the ruined Nobel brothers’ dynamite factory. P When you reach an open vineyard, at 100m under a footbridge, While it may seem odd to recommend a walk and climb up to the right between a railway and a main