Trim: 189 x 246 mm bindex.indd 12/11/2014 Page 245

Chapter index

COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL Trim: 189 x 246 mm bindex.indd 12/11/2014 Page 246

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Chapter index

Acknowledgements 2 garments 10 Introduction 4 Standard body measurements – women’s sizing 11 Pattern cutting and design 5 Constructing block patterns 13 Tools and equipment for constructing patterns 6 Block patterns 13 Types of blocks available in the book 13 Chapter 1 Sizing, standard body measurements and constructing block Chapter 2 From block to pattern patterns From block to pattern 16 Industrial sizing systems 8 Pattern outlines 17 Standard body measurements 9 Seam allowances 19 Body measurements for high-street fashion Pattern instructions 20 Costing and garment sampling 21

PART ONE: FORM CUTTING

Chapter 3 Fitted skirt blocks and Chapter 4 Fitted trouser blocks and adaptations adaptations The ‘form’ skirt blocks 24 The basic trouser block 44 The basic skirt block (natural waist) 24 The production trouser block 46 The production skirt block (low waist) 25 Basic modifications 1 Crutch ease 48 Straight skirts 2 Waistlines and waistbands 48 The straight skirt blocks 26 3 Alternative leg shaping 48 1 Straight skirts 26 4 Changing the body shape 48 2 Panel skirt 27 3 Straight skirt – inverted pleats 28 Trouser adaptations 4 Straight skirt with godets 29 1 Trousers with pleated waistline 49 5 Asymmetrical skirt – flared 30 2 Flared and gathered trousers 50 6 Panel skirt – gathered and flared 31 3 Culottes 52 7 Cowl skirt 32 4 Flared culottes 53 8 Gored skirt 33 The close fitting trouser/jeans block ‘A’ line skirts 6 Basic jeans adaptation 56 9 ‘A’ line (intermediate) skirt 7 Hipster jeans adaptation 58 block adaptation 34 10 Four gored ‘A’ line skirt 35 11 Eight gored ‘A’ line skirt 36 Chapter 5 The basic body blocks (with 12 ‘A’ line skirt with extra flare 37 bust darts) 13 ‘A’ line skirt with gathered inset 38 The close fitting bodice block 62 The easy fitting bodice block 64 Waistline finishes – facings The tailored jacket blocks 66 and waistbands The classic coat blocks 68 1 Faced waistlines 39 The one-piece sleeve block 70 2 Shaped waistbands 39 The two-piece sleeve block 72 3 Straight waistbands 39 The ‘form’ kimono blocks 74 The sleeveless blocks 76 Waistline adaptations The bodice blocks – waist shaping 77 4 Inset waistband with The dress, jacket and coat blocks – waist shaping gathered front 40 and adaptations 78 5 Yoked skirt with gores 41 Lingerie and body fitting dress block 81 Trim: 189 x 246 mm bindex.indd 12/11/2014 Page 247

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Chapter 6 Basic adaptations of the Easy fitting dress block – adaptations bodice blocks – the bust dart 3 Easy fitting dress with yoke 100 4 Pleated shift dress 101 The bust dart and shoulder dart 84 1 Transferring the bust dart 84 Close fitting dress block – adaptations 2 Combining the bust dart with the waist 5 Princess line – close fitting 102 dart 85 6 High waisted dress 103 3 Transferring the back shoulder dart 85 7 Dress with high waistband 104

The bust dart in seams Close fitting or easy fitting dress blocks – waist Darts in seams 86 adaptation 1 Bust dart in seams 86 8 Dress with waist adaptation 105 2 Bust dart in seams with close waist shaping 87 3 Bust dart in horizontal seams with reduced Lingerie block – adaptations waist shaping 88 1 ‘Bra’ top 106 4 Bust dart in curved seams with 2 Camisole top 107 waist shaping 89 3 ‘V’ neck 108 4 Vertical seams 109 The bust dart in fullness 5 Strapless bodice 109 5 Bust dart in tucks 90 6 Bust dart in gathers 91 7 Bust dart in pleats 92 Chapter 8 Complex adaptations of the bodice blocks: jackets and coats Complex bust and waist shaping 8 Wrap over front 93 Dressmaker jackets 9 Gathered bust seam 94 1 Dressmaker jacket with side panel 112 10 Draped front 95 2 Dressmaker jacket with flared peplum 113

Extending a bodice adaptation Tailored jackets and coats 11 Basic blouse 96 3 Close fitting tailored jacket 114 4 Semi-fitting tailored jacket (or coat) 115 Chapter 7 Complex adaptations of the Classic coats bodice blocks: dresses and lingerie 5 Close fitting classic coat 116 6 Easy fitting classic coat 118 Close fitting or easy fitting dress blocks – adaptations 1 Basic shift dress 98 Coat and jacket hems and seam allowances 120 2 Semi-fitted waist line 99 Coat and jacket linings 121 Trim: 189 x 246 mm bindex.indd 12/11/2014 Page 248

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PART TWO: BASIC PATTERN CUTTING PROCESSES

Chapter 9 Sleeve adaptations Cuffs 1 Mock cuffs 144 Changes to the armscye 2 Shirt cuff 144 1 Lowered armscye 124 3 Double shirt cuff 144 2 Padded shoulders 124 4 Cuff with facings 145 3 Lowered armscye: extended shoulder 125 5 Shaped cuff 145 4 Reduced shoulder line 125 6 Frilled cuff 145 Inset sleeves 1 Basic straight sleeve 126 Chapter 10 Constructing openings and 2 Semi-fitted sleeve 126 collars 3 Sleeve with back seam 127 4 Close fitting sleeve 127 Necklines 5 Short sleeve 128 1 Measuring necklines 148 6 Sleeve with slight flare 128 2 Altering necklines 148 7 Very flared sleeve 128 3 Necklines with opening or collars 148 8 Sleeve gathered into a cuff 129 4 Low cut necklines 148 9 Sleeve with flared section 129 10 Sleeve with mock cuff 130 Openings 11 Lantern sleeve 130 1 Standard buttoned front 149 12 Puff sleeve 131 2 Double breasted front 149 13 Inset cap sleeve 131 3 Asymmetrical front 150 14 Gathered sleeve head 131 4 Strap front 151 15 Darted sleeve head 132 5 Fly front 151 16 Seamed sleeve head 132 17 Strapped sleeve head 133 Collars 18 Raised sleeve seam 133 1 Terms used when constructing collars 152 Inset sleeves – extended shoulder 2 General notes 152 19 Dropped shoulder 134 3 Collar types 152 4 Collar stands 152 20 Dropped shoulder – puff sleeve 134 Flat collars Inset sleeves – extended sleeves 1 Peter Pan (flat) collar 153 21 Extended sleeve 135 2 Eton collar 153 22 Flared extended sleeve 135 3 Flat collar with low neckline and 23 Extended sleeve with yoke 136 slight stand 154 4 Sailor collar 154 Inset sleeves – raglan adaptation 24 Basic raglan sleeve 137 Standing collars 25 Deep raglan sleeve 138 5 Standing straight collar 155 Kimono sleeves 6 Polo collar 155 26 Dolman sleeve 139 7 Mandarin collar 156 27 Square armscye 139 8 Convertible collar 156 28 Kimono with yoke style 140 9 Shirt collar 157 29 Batwing 140 10 Wing collar 157

‘Form’ kimono sleeves – close fitting Collars cut in one with the garment 30 Simple cap sleeve 141 11 Rever front 158 31 Close fitting, shaped dolman sleeve 141 12 Classic roll collar 158 32 Cap sleeve with gusset 142 13 Changing the style line 159 33 Cap sleeve with panel 142 14 Shawl collar 159 15 High shaped collar 160 ‘Flat’ kimono sleeve – raglan adaptation 16 Hollowed neckline 160 34 Simple ‘flat’ kimono sleeve 143 Trim: 189 x 246 mm bindex.indd 12/11/2014 Page 249

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Collars with revers 21 Collar and rever with complete stand 163 17 Classic gents collar (tailored) 161 22 Collar and rever set away from the neck 163 18 Classic reefer collar (tailored – double breasted) 161 Frilled collars and revers 19 Standard collar and rever 162 23 Frilled collar 164 20 Standard collar and rever with 24 Frilled revers 164 lower stand 162

PART THREE: FLAT CUTTING

Chapter 11 Easy fitting garments 3 Tracksuit top – inset sleeve 190 (woven fabrics) 4 Fleece jacket – raglan sleeve 190 5 Tracksuit trousers 192 The easy fitting trouser block 166 Ease in the back crutch 166 Hoods 6 Simple hood 193 The simple trouser block 168 7 Gusseted hood 193 The simple and very simple skirt blocks 168 1 ‘Baggy’ trousers 170 Knitwear blocks 2 One-piece trousers 170 The basic grid 194 3 Gathered skirt 172 1 Knitwear adaptation sleeve – 4 Circular skirt 172 basic shoulder 194 5 Asymmetric panelled skirt 174 2 Knitwear adaptation inset sleeve – 6 Basic yoked skirts with panels 174 extended shoulder 196 3 Knitwear adaptation – raglan sleeve 196 The basic shirt block 176 The basic ‘flat’ overgarment blocks 178 The ‘flat’ kimono block 178 Computers and knitted garment shapes 198 1 Jacket – inset sleeve 180 2 Trench coat – inset sleeve 180 Chapter 13 Close fitting garments (stretch 3 Swing jacket/coat – kimono sleeve 182 and jersey fabrics) 4 Weatherwear – kimono sleeve 182 Close fitting body blocks 200 Leggings block 200 Chapter 12 Basic and easy fitting 1 Close fitting ribbed top 202 garments (jersey and knitted fabrics) 2 Basic cap sleeved tee 202 Basic and easy fitting tee shirt, tracksuit and 3 Sports skirt with pants 202 jersey blocks 186 4 Stretch dress 202 Raglan adaptation 186 1a Easy fitting tunic 188 Bodyshapers block 204 1b Easy fitting smock top 188 Swimwear block 204 2 Basic tee shirt and dress adaptation 188 Trim: 189 x 246 mm bindex.indd 12/11/2014 Page 250

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PART FOUR: SIZE AND FIT

Chapter 14 Basic grading techniques Chapter 15 Drafting blocks and fitting Grading patterns 208 for individual figures Grading four sizes 208 Drafting blocks for individual figures 214 Taking measurements 214 Grading one size up – ‘form’ cutting Making toiles 216 (4cm intervals) 208 Pattern alterations for fitting figure problems 217 The close fitting bodice block 208 Sleeve block 209 Basic skirt block 209 Basic trouser block 210

Grading one size up – ‘flat’ cutting (6cm intervals) 211 ‘Flat’ bodice blocks 211 ‘Flat’ kimono block 211 ‘Flat’ trouser block 212 ‘Flat’ and very ‘flat’ skirt block 212

PART FIVE: COMPUTER-AIDED DESIGN (CAD)

Chapter 16 Computer-generated design Pattern design and modification 233 and pattern making Garment sampling – 3D software programs 235 Pattern grading 237 From design concept to production 228 Made-to-measure 241 Product Data Management (PDM) 230 Production lay planning and marker-making 242 Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) 231 Production marker-making and cutting 243 3D body scanning and sizing 232 Marketing 244