WHAT TO DO WITH THAT GLORIOUS FLUFF From Yarn to Product Source: Doe Arnot, New Zealand Alpaca; April 2006

In the sequence of production, if fibre is a raw product, so too, is the yarn. It has the potential for being used in a myriad of finished products. Whether having fibre manufactured commercially into yarn or processing it yourself on a small scale, the same question arises. What sort of yarn do I need to make from my fibre?

This is probably a back to front dilemma, as it is the finished product that dictates the parameters of the raw materials selected and the whole processing question.

Commercially choice may be limited by machine capability, spinability of the fibre and market requirements. If you are looking to add $$’s to your fib re crop you will need to do a fair amount of research and development yourself. This could begin with a general look at imported yarns and their uses. The South American manufacture of alpaca yarn and products has a long history from cottage industry to commercial processing and may be a good place to begin. Of course hand-spun, kettle dyed alpaca yarns are still a viable industry in the Andean Indian community.

Test some commercial alpaca yarns to find out what qualities you will be wanting in your own processed yarn.

I have divided yarn types by basic yarn use categories. These do overlap to a certain extent, as knitting yarns can be woven, machine knitting yarns can be doubled and trebled for hand-knitting etc. Just as not all alpaca fibre is equal, the same applies to yarns. However, there are some qualities that certain crafts require in the yarn they use.

Hand-knitting Yarns Commercially hand-knitting yarns have been processed from a variety of different quality natural and synthetic fibres. Cleanliness has been less of an issue where the fibre has been combed after the carding process (fibre loss can be as high as 50% however). Combing has allowed for the use of stronger micron fibre to be processed for this industry although finer fibres are more desirable for the clothing industry. Smooth yarns have a greater comfort factor (not so many loose fibre ends on the surface to touch the skin). The shorter fibres are removed in the combing process along with any debris. This process has the greatest loss of fibre as waste compared to carding for woollen spinning, with a greater reported loss from 100% alpaca fibre compared to sheep.

Baby knitting yarns require soft fibres. Unfortunately, a marketable demand in baby knitting in particular has been machine washability, which has required the hand- knitting yarn industry to further process natural wool fibres to meet this criteria, or promote 100% synthetic fibre use. However, there is a market for that special baby garment, the consumer respecting the need to handwash the fabric gently in exchange for dressing their baby in comfortable, natural fibre.

From a hand-spinner’s point of view, there are two types of hand-knitting yarn (disregarding novelties for the moment). Woollen spun and Worsted. Woollen handspun alpaca yarns are the most usual handspun alpaca product here in New Zealand as handspinners so far do not have easy access to commercial alpaca combed top. (Unlike merino top). Woollen preparation involves using carded fibre, which incorporate different staple lengths. Short fibres are crisscrossed in the carding process to produce a preparation, which also traps air and bulks the fibres into a light mass. The spinner will try to keep the light handle of the prepared fibre as the fibres are drafted into yarn. Woollen spun yarns are fluffy in appearance. The yarn’s strength can be compromised by low twist in the yarn and the shortness of the fibre. Generally these yarns are not suitable for using as warp in weaving, although they can be used as weft. Extra twist in woollen spun alpaca yarns (to improve strength) can result in a harsher feel to the yarn. Very soft (low micron) fine alpaca yarns can be particularly prone to pilling. This type of yarn may be less durable and susceptible to wear and tear. Woollen alpaca yarns look very attractive with their soft halo of fibre and often become fluffier as they are knitted and full well in the finishing process. Brushing these short fibre yarns can cause shedding, not a desirable trait. It should be noted however that the fashion and high street knitwear markets do not consider durability of fibre and yarn a priority as they expect a garment’s life to last for that season only. Classic garments (which usually carry a higher price tag) are generally expected to have a longer life and be produced from quality materials.

A true Worsted handspun yarn is spun from combed fibre. The staple length needs to be longer than for woollen spinning and consistent with length.

Few handspinners are prepared to comb their fibres using traditional hand combs. However, the availability of small combs is making it more attractive to process small amounts of these yarns. The fibres are all similar length and are kept in a parallel formation for worsted spinning. The yarn is smooth, reflects the lustre of the fibre and is stronger than woollen yarn. A worsted alpaca yarn enhances the draping qualities inherent in alpaca. It is also a suitable yarn for brushing as it sheds less than short fibres and will lessen (although not necessarily solve) the pilling problem in very soft alpaca yarns.

There are also variations of the above two yarn types. A semi-worsted or woollen yarn may be a good compromise in some instances. New handspinners generally learn easily on a carded fibre preparation, as combed alpaca top is more slippery to spin.

As a generalisation, smooth alpaca yarns in commercial handknitting yarn sizes are suitable for knitting a variety of different garments and household wares. Handspun and commercially spun yarns created from natural coloured alpaca, knitted into classic clothing are always going to have a place in the market. In countries where alpaca farmers have joined fibre co-operatives, this seems to be the type of products produced for sale along with a very limited range of natural coloured knitting yarns.

Fashion knitting yarns with synthetic blends, colour and texture are the big sellers at the moment in the USA, Australia and Europe, as well as in this country. Whilst these have a limited shelf-life (usually 2-3 years), this may be a good time to add some dyed colour to alpaca yarns. Boucle and brushed yarns always remain popular with knitters. Variegated coloured yarns attract young, new knitters to the craft, as the colour changes to all the design work when knitted into simple shapes. Loosely knitted pure alpaca fabrics will not hold their shape and are only suitable for small lightweight articles such as scarves.

Machine Knitting Yarn The requirements for spinning (either by hand or commercial spun) yarn for machine knitting are a little different to handknitting. The yarn needs to be smooth and strong enough to travel from the mast (the rod which holds the thread under tension) to the needle bed and knitting carriage. Most domestic knitting machines knit fine smooth yarns only. Textured yarns can be used with a method called knit weave. Fine, well made boucle yarns may also be used providing they don’t jam in the machines tension device or carriage. There are some larger gauge machines, which can accommodate handknitting and textured handspun yarns. Machine knitting yarns are prepared either by winding on cones or using a ball winder so that the yarn unwinds freely through the machine as it is knitted. A wax spray can be used to control any hairiness and friction although unnecessary with smooth, slick yarns. Yarns for domestic machine knitting need to be perfectly balanced (i.e. no residual twist left in the yarn). To test for any active twist left in, pull off a metre of yarn and drop into a bowl of warm water. If the yarn kinks and moves in the water, then there is twist, which will cause a slant to stitches in a piece of knitting. Steaming the yarn will set the twist.

Machine knitted fabric only shows its true shape and handle after it has been washed and (in the case of smooth yarns) steam pressed. This sets the stitches and allows the yarns to relax into their knitted shape. The ‘memory’ in alpaca fibre makes blocking the fabric unsuitable, as the textile will settle back into its original shape once the pins are removed. A worsted spun yarn will cope well with demands of machine knitting, as it will be generally stronger and smoother than a woollen spun yarn.

Weaving Yarns The yarns suitable for making a woven textile can be quite varied depending on the requirements of the finished woven piece. Weft yarns (the ones that go across the longitudinal warp yarns) can be textured, smooth, fluffy, fine, thick, low twist, etc. The warp however needs to be strong enough to stay in place under tension and smooth enough to cope with the rubbing and friction from the heddles and loom beater. Some weave patterns put a lot of strain on the warp threads as they may require a fair bit of tension in order for the pattern to be woven. The drape of alpaca fibre is enhanced in a woven textile and the natural tensile strength and length of the individual fibres make the yarn a good candidate for weaving. However, the slipperiness of 100% alpaca yarn can create a few challenges. Knots can slip undone when tension is applied, and the yarn fibres may slide apart if there is inadequate twist structure in the yarn. Plain weave probably puts the least tension on he warp threads. Care needs to be taken in making sure the selvages are neat as you weave, the finished fabric edges cannot be blocked straight adequately after the cloth is off the loom. Some fine yarns will show ‘tracking’ in a plain woven fabric after it is washed. Sometimes called crowfeet because the marks look like a bird’s imprint. Alpaca (like wool) is susceptible to displaying this trait if the fabric is an open plain weave and there is any residual twist energy apparent in the yarn. Steaming the yarn and weaving the fabric with a closer sett can control this. However, this is a trait that can be a positive. A fine fabric with regular racking can create an attractive texture across the fabric (a bit like twill). Tracking is the little sister of collapse weave, an increasingly popular method of weaving lively, filmy textured fabrics. This is an area of research that interests me. I have plans to add extra twist to alpaca yarns to create fabrics, which will ripple and pleat after wet finishing. This technique works well with merino.

Yarns for Crochet Yarns appropriate for crochet are similar to knitting and weaving yarns. You can crochet with smooth or textured yarns. A crochet fabric is much bulkier than a knitted one and this should be taken into account when selecting a suitable weight yarn. If you want to make a fabric with some drape select a crochet hook at least 2 sizes larger than the equivalent sized knitting needles for the diameter of yarn. A loosely crocheted fabric will have a tendency to droop and sag in a garment (this also applies to knitting). If you want to make a light fabric, select a fine yarn. An 8ply weight alpaca yarn may make a crochet fabric that is too warm to be worn as a garment (unless you are heading for Antarctica). Any yarns can be crocheted. Smooth ones show up textured stitch patterns, fine yarn works well for crochet lace and heavily textured yarns are best utilised in a simple stitch structure.

Embroidery, Felting and Other Textile Yarn Uses Yarn for embroidery is likely to be sole in small 10 and 20gm weight skeins. Embroiderers, felters and other textile users collect and use small amounts of all sorts of yarns. Whilst traditionally embroidery yarns are very smooth, multiplied, fine, yarns sold in a myriad of different colours, there is some interest in unusual threads and exotic fibres. Even card makers and artists use small amounts of yarn. Felters like to utilise unusual yarns and intact locks of fibre such as mohair in their work. Clean Suri fibre in its raw state or dyed as separate ringlets would be a very attractive product.

In conclusion, in making decisions about turning your fibre into yarn consider the average fineness and type of fibre your animals are growing. There are no shortcuts, and you will need to do your own research and product development. However, there is a lot more information available both on the Internet and in books and magazines. There has been a growth in craftspeople and alpaca breeders utilising alpaca fibre and yarn and in a willingness to share their knowledge.

Listed below are some websites you might like to check out on the type of alpaca products in the global market at this present time.

This article is illustrated with some of the products I make with various alpaca fibre. My handspun yarns are suitable for knitting, crochet and weaving. I do not use really short fibre in my yarn. Regardless of micron, I value alpaca blanket fibre which is consistent in length, lustre, fibre structure and diameter, clean of vegetable matter and low in guard hair. Micron fineness comes into the equation when selecting for a specific project. In choosing commercially produced alpaca yarns for specific products, I don’t have this option as micron count is rarely listed on the cone or ball band, although with imported yarns descriptions such as baby, superfine etc give a fair idea of yarn suitability along with visual and tactile clues. Coned yarn can feel softer after the article is washed which removes any wax, oil or processing finishes.

I would be very interested in hearing from any members who are having some or all of their fibre processed into yarn for their own or commercial use. Particularly any problems you have encountered. My e-mail is [email protected].

In researching for this article I would like to thank the following people for their contribution-

Maggie Sewell and Brian Kitson – Adobe Alpaca Andy Nailard – Flagstaff alpaca

Websites: Inka Imports – www.inkaimp.com.au Alpacaquita – www.alpacaquita.com The Rare Yarn Company – www.rareyarns.com.au The ardent Alpaca – www.ardentalpaca.com.au Alpaca Select – www.alpacaselect.co.uk Artesano Alpaca – www.artesano.co.uk The Alpaca Wool Company – www.alpacawoolcompany.co.uk

Reference: “Alpacas, Synthesis of a miracle” - Mike Safley – 2001 Northwest Alpacas