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Color Separation & Printed at: WordScape The Printer Pvt. Ltd. sometimes takes toll for days and then by sending us your feedbacks this time Bhaisepati, 5590306, 5591112 Distributor: RB News for weeks. And then when the deadline to [email protected]. We ECS Nepal Magazine (ISSN 1729-2751) is published 12 times a year at the address above. All rights is dangling, we submit our assignments will be waiting for your letters to fix our reserved in respect of all articles, illustration, photography, etc published in ECS Nepal Magazine. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part in any form without the written consent of the publisher. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, vainly: adding to it, “I am clueless about crucified hearts. who cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions. All editorial inquiries and submissions to ECS Nepal Magazine must be addressed to [email protected] what I have written.” We hope you enjoy reading what we Each Issue: Rs. 130.00 in Nepal, Annual Subscription in Nepal: There are days when I have wished to have put together after an epidemic of Rs 1300.00 (For 12 issues). Send all subscription request to ECS Nepal Magazine, E-mail: [email protected], website: www.ecs.com.np wear the minds of other writers because I writer’s block here at ECS *wink*. am not comfortable with my own words; days when I am cranky and moody be- Srizu Bajracharya cause I have not been able to write for Sub-editor FromTheVault December 2013

Nepali/ topi has been adorning to discover more about the Dhaka talks about the writer’s experience Nepali heads for generations. A topi as a part of Nepali culture. It on her Dipankha Yatra, while Dance cloth that Nepali men wear on also talks about the oldest Dhaka of the Deities is about the dance of their heads is perhaps the most topi shop of Nirmal Tuladhar in Ason. Astamatrika performed in Patan. All recognizable feature that sets a Of course, the December 2013 over, this ‘Made in Nepal’ December Nepali man apart from all others. issue of ECS NEPAL is not only 2013 issue is worth going through Read the feature, Put a Cap on It, that. The feature, Yatra for the Bull, once again. Contents l September 2016 Issue 178

36 Feature Hajurba ra Hajurma This may sound cheesy, but it’s also true: happiness is listening to your Hajurma and Hajurba’s stories.

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SUBSCRIBERs www.ecs.com.np ISSN 1729- 2751 ISSN 1729-2751 Did not receive Monsoon is here / Losing Oneself in Simikot/ Living In Mystique: The Traditional Lep your copy ? Khokhana’s Famed Tori-ko-tel/ Rain, Mist and Ropai/ Innovation in Education Fair Changed your Khokhana’s address ? pg. 46 Famed Tori-Ko-Tel 34 Living in Mystique: One can pick up the aroma of mustard the traditionaL Lep oil cooking hundreds of feet away in Khokhana. It’s evident that at first, you The traditional lep still remains a will find yourself following the strong mystery to many. scent to gradually transcend to your own memories of tori-ko-tel. 80 Losing oneseLf in siMikot Simikot is a beautiful little town AUGUST 2016 J U l Y 2016 with equally beautiful souls. Call: 5544350 (9 a.m to 5 p.m) Monsoon

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Our sister publications [ september 2016 ]

Fruit wine enzymes making Nepal Africa Film When: September, 3 Where: Bliss raw cafe and garden Where: What’s Happening: centre Fruit wine enzymes making When: September, 7 -9 What’s Happening: The Nepal Africa Film Festival QC awards 2016 (NAFF) will venerate national poetry the diversity which is slam, (Spoken so abundantly prevalent word Nepal) throughout the African sun mon Tue wed thur Fri sat When: September, continent. The festival will Where: Rastriya teach us about African Sabha Griha “ubuntu”, and celebrate What's Happenin: the continents resilience The first ever National to move forward. Poetry Slam in 1 2 3 Nepal. Eight teams from eight different districts in Nepal will compete for the National Title. 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Newari Voyé Where: Durbar DIMA open square marathon When: September, When: IndraJatra IndraJatra What’s 17 Happening: Social 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Where: Kamaladi Tours is organizing PragyaPratishtan a Newari bhoj on What’s Happening: the occasion of Take part in this Yenya. The Voyé is marathon which set to take place 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 will test your fitness right amidst all the levels. All the funds action, along which will be raised the path where the will be going to rath is going to be the flood victims of escorted along. southern Nepal. Let’s 25 26 27 28 29 30 run for a good cause.

Trek To South Kanchenjunga Base Camp Where: Kanchenjunga Basecamp Godavari Running Festival When: September, 22 Where: St. Xaviers Godavari What’s Happening: Trek To South When: September, 24 Kanchenjunga Base Camp, Nepal What’s Happening: Basecamp Excursion Treks outdoor lifestyle brings you a challenging obstacle race, so come and test your strength, stamina and teamwork, as you run and gun your way through.

Brought to you by Hindsight Remembering the Deceased

Nirmal shrestha

he term ‘Newar’ does not just define an ethnicity, Death is an inevitable event, and one has to accept it as but also a culture. Newars observe various a normal process. At such a time, patience is essential, (jatras) throughout the year, among and after all, what is life and the universe? is the message Twhich is a fundamental one. Gai Jatra given on this day. A cow is taken out in procession to the falls one day after Guni Punhi (Janai or Raksha palace, accompanied by musical bands and other pomp, Bandhan). In Nepali Bhasa, Gai Jatra is known as in memory of the deceased. This custom can be said Saparu. Although it is an essential festival of the Newars, to be the cultural tradition of monitoring the number of nowadays, it is also observed by other ethnicities in some deceased in a given year. There is a legend behind Gai places. Basically, ‘jatra’ is understood to be a special Jatra. After the death of a Malla king’s son, it was decided celebration observed in of gods and goddesses to console the depressed queen’s spirits by arranging for on certain specific days. Gai Jatra is celebrated not to a procession of gaily decorated cows in memory of the commemorate any happy or joyous event, but rather deceased, accompanied by and ceremony, by all in sorrowful times, in remembrance of the deceased. who had lost a family member during the year.

16 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 Viewfinder Nepal through your eyes

Photographer Shuvechchhya Pradhan

Profile: Shuvechchhya Pradhan likes to introduce herself as a dreamer and a wanderer. An enthusiast of heritage, history, and old houses, she loves to travel, and write, as well as relate and collect stories of ordinary people. She is also a big fan of Nepali chiya.

Caption: ​The holy Pragya Parimita is recited by gurjus during the sacred month of . The book has the teachings of Lord Buddha, and is one of the most important scripts in . There are Photographer four important ones, written in Pramik Maharjan gold, located at Bhagwan Bahal, Kwa Bahal, Itum Bahal, and Profile: He loves photography, and he has Pinganani in Maru. Pictured here been sincerely dedicating more than a year to is the one at Kwa Bahal. it. Clicking natural photos or street photography is his theme. He currently takes photos at Tik e’ jhya Chhen.

Caption: For the early birds.

Photographer Shweta Shakya

Profile: Architecture student. Occasionally writes, travels, and takes photographs to keep her sanity.

Caption: Unconditional Friendship.

Tell us about the things you have seen and the places you have been to. Send us your clicks that depict any dimension of the Nepali way and we might publish them in this section. Direct your entries to [email protected] with your name, a short biography, your profile picture and the description of the photograph you’ve sent in.

18 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 19 LivingInNepal Things to do l FOOD l FESTIVAL WATCH l CULTURE

Patan is famous for its heritages and its beautiful architecture but it is also famous for the chips found in Pimbahal. The lip smacking chips which are of- fered in various flavours are an explosion in your mouth buds. You can munch these heavenly chips offered by the shopkeeper who has been making them for 18 years, and enjoy the beauty of Patan Durbar Square which is quite close to the particular shop. While doing so, you are sure to feel nostalgic as the taste of the chips will take you back to the carefree days where munching down on them would be the only goal in life.

things to do in 5 Nepal ‘’Sathi ko lagi yo 2 hatth salam ho, du- shman ko lagi yo hatth falam ho’’ Almost every Nepali kid at that time had once in his/ If you haven’t al- her life recited this iconic 4 ready been a part of dialogue made famous by the the craze that is Bipul Chettri, one and only Rajesh Hamal then you’re missing out on a (lovingly called Rajesh dai), great melodious experience. a living legend in the Nepali Listen to Bipul Chettri’s al- movie industry. Take a day bum ‘Sketches of ’ off, gather your friends, ar- that includes hits like ‘Asaar’ range some popcorn and and ‘Deurali dadha’ and get binge watch Rajesh Hamal transported into a harmoni- movies with subtitles (if ous journey through the provided) and fall in love hills. Bipul Chettri’s melodic with the nation’s superstar acoustic tune will take you to all over again. And in that his world that is different yet way, you’re not only bound so similar at the same time. to have good time but you’re And if you’re lucky you might also supporting the Nepali even catch him live as his con- film industry. certs take place frequently in the valley.

Although Nepal is a 3 secular country, Hin- duism remains the dominant and part of our public culture. Hence, one can notice a plethora of Ganesh, also known as the elephant god, who is a prominent and one of the most worshipped deity of , and Swastik which is a symbol for prosperity and peace in Hinduism, in every nook and cranny of . With respect to the religion, the followers as well as the non-followers can come up with a game of spotting and counting the Ganesh as well as Swastik symbols which are easily found all over the valley. Not only is it fun but you can also experience it first-hand, the dedication of the Hindu followers in this modern world.

Not much into cooking but yet garnish will make you crave for more. It 5 want to put out something in- will prove to be the perfect snack over stant and delicious when with friends? a light chit chat with friends. Then make Wai Wai chatpattey, an all- Ingredients: Wai Wai instant noo- time classic snack that is loved by all and dles, beaten rice (optional), lemon, equally fun to make. The fragrant spices finely chopped onions and tomatoes, of Wai Wai along with the tangy taste boiled potato (optional) and coriander of the lemon and the freshness of the leaves.

22 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 23 Food Yogendra Maharjan Yogendra

Food The Forgotten Haja Remembering the mouthwatering delicacy from childhood, a unique mix of specially cooked rice combined with sugar and butter.

sachi mulmi sk a man about haja, followed by green leaves. Then Though taichin rice is a fa- and he’ll tell you to you pour the required amount of vorite for haja, people also use ask a woman about rice, and cover the mouth of the other types of rice for it. And Ait! Not because he haasi with a lid filled with water. even the method of preparation cannot be bothered by the prepa- Thus, the famed steamed rice is have changed. Finding a phosi ration of food items, but because prepared. or a haasi in a normal house- he’s more interested in the end For those who have con- hold is difficult these days, so product of haja – chyang or raksi. sumed haja, they cannot stop using a steamer is a much easier This unique rice delicacy is praising it. There’s something option. traditionally prepared when the delicious about the rice made Those who cherish the mem- women of the house start the this way. Before the idea of ory of haja, do so mainly for its tedious and meticulous process buffet parties really picked up, amazing mix with clarified but- of brewing alcohol. And prepar- gatherings and other social ter and sugar. The combination ing it has some really interesting functions would serve a scrump- further accentuates the taste of and difficult procedures. After tious meal of haja. It is easier the rice, making it a memorable boiling hot water in a phosi, you to prepare than normal rice. treat. And more so the kids. put the haasi on top, which is a Perhaps what has slowly made its The rice mixture is rolled into big pot with holes on the bot- existence fade from the popular little bite sized and given to tom. The bottom is covered with culinary choice is the difficulty little children to enjoy. Rice had enough hay to make a good base and the heavy utensils it needs. never been so tasty!

24 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 It had been almost over a year for me, since I had my last laaphing. However, at the time, I had fulfilled my stomach’s wish to a happy end: I had gobbled down six servings of laaphing, both yellow and white. Now, I wanted to go for it again. And as we went on talking about our anecdotes of trying this dish for the first time, my foodie friend, started describing the place from where her sister brought her laaphing every once in awhile. “Kasto mitho huncha, piro ra ramilo, waah kasto khana paryo. (It’s so delicious, spicy and fun. Wow! I really need to eat it.) It’s probably the best place for laaph- ing in my mind.” The next day, to open a laaphing shop, and White laaphing: This laaph- we were on the road to find this hence, I went for it when I got ing is usually the one you order place. The alleys of Boudha are the chance,” says Shercho. It’s with soup. It is made the same quite confusing. Once you get been more than six years now way as the yellow laaphing soup. into the lanes, unless you are a that she has been offering deli- However, the only difference is local, you are bound to get lost. cious laaphing to her customers. that the white laaphing is made As our search for the small College girls and boys and out of chickpeas powder. familiar lafen began, we wan- other youngsters come all the After having four servings dered deep into the labyrinth of way from different parts of Kath- of the three variant laaphings, Boudha for almost 45 minutes. mandu to try her laaphing. “Aba I ordered two more and packed There are more than 10 laaphing k bhannu, ramailo lagcha, man- eight for my friends and family. places in Boudha, in every nook nis haru khoji khoji mero thaun As she rubbed the spicy and corner you will find places ma laaphing khana aauncha,” paste into the yellow jelly pan- Finding Food that offers laaphing. And it says Shercho. (I really enjoy it cakes, I asked her, “Isn’t it dif- seemed like each outlet was try- when people come searching for ficult? With a line of laaphing ing their best to offer something my place for laaphing, it’s a won- shops and outlets mushroom- the best Laaphing extra: for example, wifi, while derful feeling to be recognized ing even outside Boudha, your at some other places, modern for the work you do.) business must be facing quite a sitting arrangement. I did not Laaphing is a jelly pancake competition?” at Boudha mind this business model at all, steamed the same way as momo. “It is. Fewer people visit this because it’s the same story as The yellow laaphing is made of place compared to the previous In recent times, Boudha has grown more popular for how momo became the de facto maida flour while the white one years. However, I am not that another reason. The fiery cold mysterious Tibetan food: staple food of Nepal. is made of chickpea powder, worried, because I think, in After taking several turns, we and it is served in three differ- time, laaphing will slowly be- Lafen also known as Laaphing. finally found the chain of laaph- ent ways. come like momos. Momo, after ing shops at Phulbari, Boudha. all, was a Tibetan dish, but now Srizu bajracharya This is also the place where you One- in-rolls: This laaphing it’s so popular, and even though will find the oldest and the most is a dry laaphing. The yellow everyone knows how to make oudha is one of the no wonder why thousands of to different parts of the city as a popular laaphing center. The pancake is rubbed with a spice it and how to sell it: it’s still surreal places in Ne- people visit this place on a daily Tibetan culinary that most ur- place we were looking for was paste (chili powder mixed in popular. I guess some things pal, a place that will basis to immerse their souls in banites can enjoy even in malls. ‘Himalayan Tasty Lafen Center’, special Chinese oil), and to it, are born that way; the more you embrace you with the serenity of the most sacred But my hunt for Laaphing be- a small outlet with simple sitting small granules of the maida share, the more popular it gets,” faith. The fluttering Buddhist shrine in the country. gan again when a friend posted arrangements, and a welcoming bread soaked in water is added says Shercho. Bprayer flags, the waft of incense In recent times, however, a picture of Laaphing on Insta- lady, Choying Shercho, who had as filling. Once done, it is rolled And it’s quite true, we came from gompas, the flickering Boudha has grown even more gram. This was at lunch, and dreamed of opening a laaphing and cut into pieces for serving. searching for Boudha’s best wicks of butter lamps, and the popular for another reason en- hence, I couldn’t stop talking center ever since she was young. laaphing, but we ended up real- enchanting mantra ‘ mane tirely. The fiery cold mysterious about the dish; I felt like I had She always liked the taste of Laaphing soup: The yellow pan- izing that there is no such thing padme hum’ murmured rhythmi- Tibetan food: lafen, also known forgotten the flavor of the spicy, laaphing, and she wanted to cake is cut into pieces, and to as ‘best’, it’s just the experience cally by those on a kora around as laaphing. slimy, noodle. You know how it share her love for this food with it, the soup of chili powder and that counts. As long as the the giant stupa, add more value By now, most people already is; when suddenly you have this others. vinegar is added. The garnishing flavor of the laaphing lingers to the spiritual journey that know its taste; the dish is so craving –the urgency that makes “This place was originally a is done again with small granules in people’s memories, it will people make here every day. It’s popular that it has now migrated you go bonkers. khaja ghar, but I always wanted of the wet maida bread. continue to be popular.

26 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 27 Culture How would help me find a good The Women in Red husband? Does he know what would make a The beauty of culture lies in its palpability to change its value with time. A perfect husband for me, when I do not know newlywed fasts for the first time and finds new meaning in the traditional that myself? festival of . families getting together and temples talking animatedly and all the time. Times have changed, avrati bhatnagar having fun is exactly my idea of laughing. There were mandalis they say and a woman like me festivities. or groups on the corner of roads can leave their house whenever I become a childhood memory. On the day of Teej, I dressed singing and groups of women want and go out with my friends My mother would some time up in my red wedding saree, half were dancing to their tunes. without my husband tailing me. mention about teej being round excited, half anxious. It was a true red party on the But have times really changed for the corner on our phone conver- Are you seriously going to fast streets. The aesthetics of the all women? Perhaps these are the sations. I would dread her not all day, my husband kept ques- festival were so arousing that occasions when women from all eating or drinking for an entire tioning and went on to tease me you could not care for anything quarters of society can freely get day. She would say that if you about going hungry to ensure his else much either. I forgot all out together and have an amaz- believe in the fast you do not long life and good health. Now I about the fast as the excitement ing time in the name of ritual. even feel the need to. It would feel guilty about eating and I am in the air caught up with me. “I It made sense to me to see the not convince me but I would hungry he complained. Cousins think teej is the only time when excitement on the faces around rather not argue. back home, younger sisters who there are more women than men me. They are not just fasting, they Since I did not fast to make were next in line to get married on the city streets. Seems oddly are celebrating. Shiva happy, the job of finding a within a year – the ones I ran subversive in its own way”, I The sun had already set when perfect husband had to be under- amuck with on this day decades mentioned enthusiastically to we reached back home. Timle took myself. You see, if I didn’t ago as our aunts and mothers my sister. garo bhaye hola (you might have trust the Lord himself to do it I did the – texted me. Each As I waited in the thankfully- found it difficult), my mother- could not trust anyone else too. one of them, asking me how I not-so-long queue at Pashupati, in-law told me while giving me Maybe Shiva was pleased already was holding up without eating paused a moment to look around. some boiled potatoes and water or I was good at looking, but I or drinking? Is it as difficult as There were so many women in to have. The whole day is enough found the perfect one I wanted to it looked? Do you really not feel groups walking around in their you do not have to fast the night marry. I was a months old bride like eating like our mothers used best clothes, buying little noth- too. I had those and went to my surrounded by a new family to say? ings, dancing in the middle of the room beaming. My husband sat very year as a little night long singing and dancing, and teej was approaching. The A part of me was not even streets in a manner which was there reading. “So you success- kid I saw my moth- the adornments, and the rituals women I would meet would ask listening to the chatter. As I refreshingly lighthearted. It was fully fasted for your husband, er dress up in her were not just amusements but me if I had fasted before. I would stepped out of our home and their day! I realized something who does not even believe in prettiest red saree they had a very specific purpose. smile and shake my head, “no”. went from one to another, then; maybe, this is not about these things” he teased again. and all the regalia Aunts would tease me and the They would enquire if my mother the atmosphere outside was elec- the husbands at all. Yes, it says “Who said it was for you” thatE came with it. She looked girls that we should start fasting did and be satisfied with an af- tric. All the women I saw were so in the books and stories but I smiled knowingly and went exceptionally beautiful around already if we wanted a perfect firmative answer. “This would be dressed up and on their way to that does not have to be the truth to bed. teej, rather she made sure she husband. Shiva would grant one your first one, then”, they would did. She would then fast for an to us. They are too young now, say. Older ones would mention entire day without even taking a my grandmother would inter- how it was much harder in their sip of water. It is a game I used rupt. Their mother-in-law will time but now the rules are a to say to myself. A challenge to make them fast anyway. Let them little relaxed. Collectively they go without drinking for twenty- be untroubled while they are in would discuss the long queues four hours. All women in the their mother’s house. I would at Pashupati and the hours they family used to gather at our giggle outwards but feel awk- spent waiting to gain entry the grandmother’s place. The night ward inside. How would Shiva year before, and the year before before they would sit together help me find a good husband? and so on. Queues, hunger and and eat one last time before the Does he know what would make thirst would scare me a little but teej fast would ritually start. We a perfect husband for me, when I did not want to show it. kids, careless and happy we are I do not know that myself? What A week before teej the dark- all spending the night together on if he gets confused and picks hani parties started. Aunts and this festival, would scream, play someone he likes but I do not? relatives invite women to their and run around. Years later, as a grown wom- house to eat, dance and celebrate As I grew up, the festival of an living on my own and away the coming of teej. They were the teej gained a new meaning, the from my family for years, teej had best part of the festival. Extended

28 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 few days before the event. “And Local listening we have the meet and greet with Bipul Chettri Bipul and Prabal before the show, so the lounge space on top was perfect for it.” Wildfire in New York Pasang Sherpa has been a member of the Nepali com- A long intended evening in New York finally comes to fruition and it munity in New York for many years, and has been a pro-active ends up being one of most exciting nights in a long time for the Nepali member of the Nepali events community in the Big Apple. Bipul Chettri performs at the Mellrose community during that time. Ballroom. An account. Of the many events he has been involved with, he was also key to putting together the Kutumba Kashish das shrestha concert and fundraiser for the non-profit Grassroots Nepal a few years ago. A music enthusi- t is a few hours before the casually seated next to Pasang, Melrose Ballroom is an excep- ast, back in the day he performed show, and the July 16 af- keenly tuned in. At 6:30PM, tional venue whose ground floor at several Nepali concerts as a ternoon thunderstorm cuts its go-time. Outside the door, a has a stage in front and limited member of a local band. “This through New York’s thick line has already begun to form seating in the back with a large is an event I had been wanting humidity. Inside the Mel- along the venue’s wall. Inside, open space in between and bars to host for a very long time, and Irose Ballroom, organizer Pasang event staff setup at the door with on both sides. On the upper Bipul and I had been speaking Sherpa of PNM Entertainment is color-coded wristbands. On cue, level, guests are able to stand about it for a while. I am glad huddled around a round table in Prabal Gurung, the fashion de- along the balcony and watch it has finally come together,” he the center of a large empty floor signer whose non-profit Shikshya the show below. And on the top said. The New York show, of with his associates. On stage, a Foundation is a beneficiary of the floor, a lounge space with a bar which Lights Out Entertainment band patiently starts the sound event, arrives and is quickly ush- for mingling. “I wanted to make is also a co-organizer, is part of later he had to grudgingly leave side, we had to wait for 30 min- check instrument by instru- ered in to the upper level where sure we did a proper concert Bipul Chittri and the Traveling for a Bollywood actress’ birth- utes!” Indeed, almost $40,000 ment. Its front man, and star of guests will be getting a chance to and did not compromise on the Band’s “The Tour 2016.” day party and missed the main worth of alcohol was bought tonight’s show, Bipul Chettri, is meet him for a photo op. experience,” Pasang had said a Pasang was not the only one glad that the show worked out: event and star of the night: Bipul at the bars during the event tickets for the event sold well in Chettri. (a dance party, which started advance and it began to look Well past 9:30 PM, and the after the concert, ended past increasingly obvious the 1200 line of people waiting to get into 3:30AM). capacity venue would not be able the venue is long enough that it The front man and the band, to accommodate everyone who wraps around the building. In- which had arrived in New York wanted to come to the show, or side the venue, the crowd begins after performing in several other those who were thinking of buy- to chant: “Bipul! Bipul!” And so cities at events organized by the ing tickets at the door. he appears, and with him, his Nepali community, put on a The meet and greet part of music that has made a humble flawless set. Still, as audiences the event revolved largely around music teacher a musical sensa- below the stage stretched out a general Q&A session with tion amongst and folks their hands towards Bipul, he Prabal and the Nepali actress from ’s North East region. would gingerly shake a few hands Priyanka Karki, of which the The venue was filled with or touch a few palms in between entertainment highlight was per- energy as the crowd, bouncing verses or songs, almost as if the haps Priyanka singing “Timle Ta in unison with hands stretched singer songwriter still did not Haina…”. Bipul joined in for the out, turned into one giant choir quite know how to respond, or latter half, and soon fans mobbed accompanying Bipul song after had not come to terms with his the trip for photos. song. Several young women were popularity. Indeed, abandoning Downstairs, after an open- hoisted on the shoulder of their many of those arms reaching out ing performance by a band, the male friends, giving them a great to him, Bipul gathered his band packed venue was in a mood for vantage point of the stage, as well mates, and with their hands held a good time and Diwas Gurung, as a unique spot for the essential together, took a couple of bows, whose folk-rock band has per- selfie and video clips or Snap- leaving the stage with a smile and formed for several Nepali events, Chat, Instagram or Facebook, a wave to the audience, and a was providing the soundtrack or all of them. fantastic set of photos and videos for it. Prabal Gurung got on “The bar on this side is bet- for them to share online from the stage and spoke a few words of ter,” a young woman said picking night. Not to mention the kind gratitude and his love for Bipul’s up two with a friend. “It of ‘great concert experience’ music too. However, minutes was so crowded on the other organizer Pasang had hoped for.

30 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 31 rjuna’s Dilemma stage and film actors Rajkumar in , and English, is a 70 minute Pudasaini as the embodiment of places me as a cultural novice ARJUNA’S DILEMMA contemporary , and Salil Subedi enact- in Nepal. This is also true of the fusion opera by ing Arjuna, and Arjuna’s bow American Guest Artists, experts the American Gandiva danced by ballerina in their field, but new to Nepal IN A NEW AVATAR Muse Acomposer Douglas J. Cuomo, Alize Biannic. An ensemble of and South Asian and culture. inspired by text from the ancient eight professional OWT actors So the preproduction visits Kathmandu is getting prepared for a unique transcultural exchange Indian epic the Bhagavad create a vivid tableaux suggest- to the country were obvious. Gita and the poetry of . ing the powerful memory and Scenographer Greg Mitchell and collaboration where east meets west such that each artist, each Described as a work of both experience of love and war. came first in January 2016 and training, each tradition is honored, in the spirit of cultural healing. sweeping grandeur and piercing As a stage director, I am new explored the different court- intimacy, the International to opera, and the seven years I yards of the Patan Museum with Premiere of Arjuna’s Dilemma is have spent in Nepal have been Sangeeta , Director of the Deborah merola planned for the Patan Museum in most often as a communicator Siddhartha Gallery, Suresh Kathmandu, Nepal, September of American drama and culture. Man Lakhe from the Patan Mu- 1-11, 2016 So the rich complexity of Ar- seum, and Raju Roka from the So how might One World juna’s Dilemma, based on the Kathmandu Valley Preservation Theatre, an intercultural Eng- ancient and sung Trust. Together we discussed au- lish theatre company in Kathmandu, approach this amazing project? First, we in- vite world class artists to Nepal: Composer Douglas J. Cuomo, acclaimed for his original and distinctive concert, operatic, film and television work; Music Director Jonathan Khuner, Con- ductor at the San Francisco Op- era, the Lyric Opera of Chicago, and the Metropolitan Opera; and International Opera Singers Roy Stevens and Annalisa Winberg, who have performed profes- sionally in 24 countries, on five continents and in 15 . Arjuna’s Dilemma seamlessly fuses Eastern with Western mu- sical idioms and we welcome Gurudev Kamat, the renowned singer of Indian classical music, as Krishna’s voice, with Arjuna sung by operatic baritone Roy Ste- vens. Improvisation is common to both musical worlds, with the Indian singer, tabla players and a jazz saxophonist each using their respective improvisatory tradi- tions to reach for the ecstatic, the sublime and the terror that make up the emotional world of this work. Soprano soloist Annalisa Winberg is a vocal Narrator and the six female members from the Kathmandu Chorale function as a kind of “Greek chorus” comment- ing on the action. Ten instrumen- talists from the Kathmandu Jazz Conservatory play in a Western style orchestra. The One World Theatre production features well known

32 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 33 dience access, sight lines, staging dian Cultural Centre when they choices were entirely strong and requirements, and the all impor- listened attentively to the fluent beautiful. It is exciting to think tant acoustics. I felt my initial singing and observed the ges- of the classical Indian singer and hesitancy about approaching this tural language and communica- opera baritone, joined by stage new opera slip away as we easily tion between the Indian classical and film actors, interacting and imagined Arjuna’s Dilemma in singer and the tablas. stretching the boundaries of their the splendid courtyards of the Then it was the turn of the Ne- different musical and theatrical historic Patan Museum. pali musicians to literally “drop forms. It was fascinating to see jaw” when Roy and Annalisa I, too, will be making a leap how a designer with hundreds demonstrated their full operatic of faith, as I learn that in opera of credits in regional theatre, voices, coming from years of the Stage Director steps back Broadway/Off Broadway, opera, training and a deep musculature, upon the arrival of the Musi- dance and television, carefully and capable of filling an opera cal Director, who takes over attended to the exquisite stone house without amplification with the production. While a new sculptures, wood carvings and an entire orchestra behind them. idea, it is also a reassuring one architectural details of the Patan The OWT actors gave the opera as Jonathan Khuner, a deeply Museum. The entire sceneog- singers the same awed reaction humane and accomplished raphy by Mitchell will highlight when Roy and Annalisa sang an conductor on the world stages the striking environment of the aria at our first meeting. brings together these local Bhitri Chowk while preserving Even the Westerners have to and international singers and fragile structures. Live Sound place themselves in each other’s musicians. Engineering by Lucy Peckam, an hands. Roy Stevens and An- This makes for a most inter- award winning Alaska based the- nalisa Winberg come from the esting and humbling combina- atre and concert audio designer, grand opera tradition where sing- tion in that we all are learners will mix the ephemeral operatic ers come into rehearsals after and experts, dependent on voices, Eastern classic singing, months of detailed preparation. the others, yet sharing the best and jazz instrumentation along- Roy explained that opera sing- of our own traditions. This is side the percussive tabla. ers would highly resist and even not an American opera being In , Music Director resent any attempt of a stage imposed upon an unknowing Jonathan Khuner and interna- director to move them dramati- Nepali people, or a clumsy at- tional opera singers Roy Stevens cally on the stage. tempt by Westerners to shine and Annalisa Winberg arrived So asked into an improvisa- in an unknown world, but a in Nepal and walked in wonder tional session with the actors, unique transcultural exchange through the ancient Patan Dur- Roy wanted to make clear his and collaboration where each bar Square. Their admiration discomfort and inexperience in artist, each training, each tradi- for South Asian music was also dramatic improvisation; how- tion is needed and honored, in evident at a meeting at the In- ever, his physical impulses and the spirit of cultural healing.

34 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 Feature Hajurba ra Hajurma Listening to your Hajurba and Hajurma’s stories can be both enthralling and fulfilling, transporting you back to their nostalgic memories.

numa shakya

“ s children we are in But, there was a time when a hurry to grow up, my Hajurma came to spend time but as grandparents with us during our school vaca- we only want to be tions. She made pickles and ate a part of our fami- cheeseballs with me. We basked lies’A lives,” my Hajurma used to in the sun for hours, and watched say this to me, when her old age , Mahabharata, and had not faulted her memories, Chandra Kanta together. time and again. A time when One morning, she jerked she still remembered who I was, straight up when my elder sis- when she recognized the people ter’s alarm buzzed. She started around her, when she didn’t clapping her hands in the air, and forget as much as she does now. when I asked, “What’s wrong?” Sometimes, after having lunch she said, “I can hear the gods, together, she asks me, “Khana they are singing,” and she went on khayo?” to which my body winc- singing, “Om Jai Jagadish Hare, es because it makes me realize Swami Jai Jagadish Hare, Bhakta that aging gracefully perhaps is Jano Ke Sankat, Daas Jano Ke just a ‘saying.’ Because the reality Sankat, Kshan Men Door Kare, is that, it is hideous at times: the Om Jai Jagadish Hare.” Later, I deceiving memories that start to told her, “Hajurma, its Lunibha weigh in with the senses. didi’s alarm song,” and we both My Hajurma has blamed many cracked up. of her guests as thieves for steal- There are many other sto- ing her sweaters and her khasto ries with my Hajurma that I (shawl), and we can’t blame her enjoy reminiscing about time for seeing the world in that way. and again. I return to some Perhaps it’s her dreams and her memories with her, and some- old memories playing tricks with times I just sit with her, even her now. And, these days, she though she vaguely remembers is constantly worried about her my presence. old radio; she fears it will stop The point is: amidst the busy working if she doesn’t play it. life we forget that our Hajurma She loves to talk with her sons. and Hajurba just want to spend She often laughs at herself and time with us. Let’s return to her craziness when she realizes the lovely stories of grandmoth- her sieved memories: when she is ers and grandfathers, because looking for her specs, when she they were the ones who once has it in her hands, when she is made us feel important when looking for daddy, when he is we were busy talking about right in front of her. imaginative stories.

36 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 37 Feature

I love my spot Sanu Maya Badhyakar, 75, loves sitting in this old falcha (traditional public resting place). She says, “This is my spot, I love watching people from here.” “It’s better to be a spectator of life by sitting here than sitting at home and letting your mind be bored thinking of little things that dishearten you for no reason. Life is better when we are positive.”

We make a lovely picture together Sanu Maya Khadgi and Ganga Maya Khadgi are sister- in-laws, who love sitting in this spot and talking about their lives. Many tourists have taken candid photos of them while they have chattered idly. “People are fascinated when they see us sitting here, I think we make a lovely picture together, there- fore they keep clicking that shutter. I guess we are aging gracefully.”

38 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 39 Catching up with the four friends… Gorkha Mani Kapali, 78, Asha Byanjankar, 62, Mehboob Khan Nepali, 63, and Asta Bir Maharjan, 55, are friends for life. They sit together on the stairs of the Bhimsen Mandir, watching passerby. Enjoying the free television of life at Patan. “We are old men, what importance do we have now? We sit here watching life. Life has been good to us, but our age surely hasn’t,” they laugh.

40 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 Oh Feature Precious Daughter of Mine

Amar B. Shrestha

t was almost midnight. was the kind of thing I wanted We—a friend and I—waited to hear! with some impatience out- side the hospital deliv- Those bygone days ery room. There were no I am the only son among five Iother patients or visitors. Finally, siblings. I have been constantly the swing doors opened, and an told about how happy my father orderly wheeled out my wife on had been when I was born after a table with our newborn child. three daughters. Although I grew The doctor walked beside her, up with my uncle (I was put in a and shaking my hand, said, “Con- missionary school in a hill station gratulations. It’s a girl.” where they lived), I did spend The baby had a head full of the early years in my own home, dark black hair, that’s what I and also at least three months of noticed first. Her face was puffy, winter holidays every year. So, and her eyes were screwed shut. I can well remember that I was She seemed quite large. I was a pampered child, even though as thrilled as could be! I con- we weren’t well-off. I can clearly gratulated my wife. She gave me recall sitting down for meals with a funny kind of look. Sometime my father, while my mother and later, after they were settled in sisters hovered around us. I also their room, my friend and I went recall being given one egg every outside for a smoke. After a few morning at breakfast, a com- puffs, my friend turned to me, modity that my sisters had to do and said, “Congratulations. But, without most of the time, since it would have been better if it had they cost a pretty paisa. been a boy, wouldn’t it?” Things then were more or I was taken aback by his less the same with most families remark; didn’t expect this from that I knew about. A son was a a well-educated guy living in gift, a daughter, not much so. the 21st century. Anyway, my Besides the ultimate benefit of next task was to call my parents being blessed if one’s last pyre and give them the good news. was lit by a son, parents obviously My dad’s response was: “Con- looked forward to their sons to gratulations, Goddess Laxmi has provide for them in their old age. entered your home.” Now, that Daughters would marry (incur-

42 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 43 ring much cost) and would have families of their own, while a son was expected to earn and live with his parents, look- ing after their needs. These facts were givens. So it is understandable that, in those days, sons received much higher priority than daughters. However, my father insisted on all his children getting a college education. You could say that he was probably one of the enlightened ones in those days, when daughters had to do all the household chores and were married off early. Anyway, two decades down the line, I now had a little daughter off my own. We were in the 21st century, and naturally, there was no question about a daughter being any less equal than a son. (By the way, that funny look of my wife as she came out of the delivery room, I found later, was her apprehension about whether I was happy to have a daughter instead of a son.)

Early days of a new age I had quite a hand in raising my child, my precious firstborn, and the only one, as it transpired. It wasn’t an easy task raising an infant by ourselves, without the wise advice of elders, since we lived away from our parents in another city. I would advice others to get as much help as possible from their elders in this onerous task. Experience, after all, is the greatest asset, notwithstanding modern medicine, specialist pediatricians, and new ideas of raising children. Long and short of it, we—my wife and I—would find ourselves at wit’s end many times, not knowing why the child wasn’t eating enough, why she was regurgitating most of the expensive baby food we fed her, and why she sometimes started wailing for no rhyme or reason. There wasn’t much question about the direction her life would take. We put After a few puffs, my friend turned to me, her in a kindergarten school at an early and said, “Congratulations. But, it would age. Her first day of school is one that I often recall fondly. There she was, all have been better if it had been a boy, excited, dressed up smartly in a brand new , with her hair tied with rib- wouldn’t it?” bons, and with a colorful school bag on her back and a nifty looking water bottle around her neck. Being an outgoing sort, In this day and age, it seems less than a son in urban areas she seemed to be really looking forward odd to be saying that a like Kathmandu. Whatever to her first day in school. We were natu- daughter is still considered to the situation may be, in rally happy to see her so positive and be a burden. However, it is a today’s world, both daughters fact in many parts around the and sons should get the happy. Inside the school, as she lined up country, particularly in rural same opportunities to get with the other children for the assembly, areas. At the same time, it is ahead in life, and to explore she glanced over at us, smiled, and then encouraging to note that a and develop their god-given daughter is regarded to be no unique abilities. couldn’t stop herself from shedding a

44 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 45 Feature

couple of tears. We reluctantly waved goodbye. look at the sun during this period. After 10 days, However, it being the first day, we were allowed to she makes her appearance outside, and worships take our children home at around noon. So, I went the sun. Then, she undergoes the ceremony of Bel to pick her up. There she was, running around the Bibah, in which she is symbolically married to the grounds with new friends, looking pretty much at bel fruit. This means that she can henceforth never home. We didn’t have to coax her to go to school, be a widow in her coming life, even if her real hus- that day onwards, let me tell you! band dies before her, having been also married to Though our society is still pretty traditional (tak- the bel fruit which represents some god. ing pride in one’s customs and upholding them is As expected, the explanations behind this ritual a good thing), there is no bias in the treatment of, are quite complex. However, for me, it also holds and behavior towards, sons and daughters. It is as another meaning. It reminds the parents, the father clear as daylight that girls are on equal footing with especially (since he is usually the breadwinner), that boys nowadays. So, raising my daughter in such their daughter has grown up now, and is almost a an environment was a cakewalk in this sense; of woman, so better prepare yourself for the coming course, that left me with even bigger responsibilities years when the next most important stage in her of ensuring that she was given every opportunity life—that is, marriage—will have to be celebrated. to grow up strong, happy, and confident. We con- Not only is it, customarily, the highest point of a ducted all the usual customary rituals that had to be daughter’s life, it is also the most back breaking performed at different stages of growing up with as event for any parent. much pomp and ceremony as we could reasonably A girl’s marriage entails so many rituals, all afford. Besides this, her birthdays were, of course, incurring so much expense, that many parents highlights of the year. I remember that her second fall into debt to ensure that they have met all the birthday, in particular, was a very special one, since obligations that society expects of them. The return the first birthday is not celebrated in our society. of the groom’s procession with the daughter, after Time flew by, with her coming-of-age ceremony, the wedding rituals are over and the father has known as Bel Bibah, observed when she was around handed over his precious daughter to her husband, 12 years of age. It’s an intricate ritual that holds is perhaps the most poignant of all moments in any immense significance in any girl’s life. First, she has parent’s life. Well, thankfully, my daughter has just to stay hidden in a dark room for a period of 10 finished her college, and wants to make something days (called gufa rakhnu, literally meaning being of her life before getting married. So, things haven’t put in a cave). The main thing is that she mustn’t reached the point of tearful farewells, as yet!

46 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 47 Bijita Raimajhi her stall friend adds to it, “it’s actually good to be busy, when you are not, you unneces- LOCAL STORY sarily worry and eat your own head.” Raimajhi has two sons, and on most days she is worried about her younger one, “Current ko pwal ma aaunla ta lagayena; inaar bhitra tah khasena justo huncha,” (I hope he has not pinned his finger to the plughole, I hope he hasn’t fallen down in the well while playing with his friends.) A mother is bound to be worried about their children. But I ask her, “What bothers you the most?” “I sometimes wonder why people yell and scold me, even, when I am trying my best or when I am work- ing hard to make a better life,” says Raimajhi as her eyes reckon the tur- moil she has been through. Goma and Bijita take a bus every now and then to Kalimati in the morn- ing to bring fruits and vegetables for their stalls; often fighting their ways through the crowd of the bustling Kathmandu outside the core of Patan and the rude conductors. “There is not much profit in this business, however, this is our life, but a little hu- mility can make our lives easier, you know? It can make us feel good; why would you want to be a reason for someone’s bad day?” says Raimajhi. writer : M aiya B ajracharya

It’s raining cats and dogs; monsoon in Patan is acts as a muse. Goma Shrestha, 22 and Bijita Raimajhi, 35, sit on the falcha enjoy- ing small talk. I sit next to them as the rain gets heavier listening to them guffawing. Goma is newly married and for her it’s been just six months here in Kathmandu Valley. “Kotha ma basirakhum bhane k garnu, baru bahira yesari kaam gare ali ramilo huncha,” (What can I do sitting home all day? It’s better if I work because life is fun that way.) Hastings unilaterally declared war on Nepal. With the objective of dis- Indifferent Cart integrating its enemy’s power base, and gradually weakening Feature its strength, thereby gaining Procession victory over Nepal, the Com- Jatras (festivals) abound in Nepal, but the Khat Jatra is somewhat different from pany government sent forces under Colonel Ochterlony the rest. from Rupar so as to gain con- Nirmal Shrestha trol over the Sutlej and Jamuna River areas; Major General Robert Rollo Gillespie from Saharanpur, to gain control over Dehradun; Joe Sullivan Wood from Gorakhpur, to control the area starting from onwards to Palpa; and Captain Major General Ben- nett Marl from Makwanpur side to attack Kathmandu; while Captain Berry Latter was assigned the responsibility of controlling the area between Kosi and Teesta Rivers in the east. Khat jatra in Palpa is celebrated to From Nepal’s side, too, to counter these war actions, the commemorate Nepal’s victory in the government ordered forces Palpa region during the Anglo-Nepal under the command of Kazi Bakhtar Singh Thapa to Bi- War of 1814-1816. jayapur in the eastern region; under Colonel Ranbir Singh Company government could ments for weapons and am- Thapa to Makwanpur; un- gauge the bravery, patience, munition, besides starting der Bada Kazi Amar Singh strategic skills, and battlefield construction of roads and Thapa to the region following ability of their Nepali adversar- bridges and culverts and forti- Mahakali; and forces under ies from close quarters in the fied garrisons on a war footing. Colonel Ujir Singh Thapa battle in which they fought un- In addition, various gods and to the Palpa Butwal region. der Colonel Ujir Singh Thapa’s goddesses were worshipped, War raged between the two leadership. and the most auspicious time countries. Except for the Palpa Before entering the bat- was determined, so as to en- region, the war did not go Ne- tlefield, Colonel Ujir Singh sure victory in battle. And, pal’s way in other areas. The Thapa made suitable arrange- touching the feet of 16-handed Mahisasur Mardini Bhagwati, located in the middle of Tansen lacing deity figures celebrated in various parts of wati Jatra is not only different bazaar, Colonel Ujir Singh on a khat (wooden Palpa, too. Among the khat from all other jatras of the Thapa also swore, provided platform), and then jatras of Palpa, the one held in country, it can be said to be that victory was theirs, to build taking them out in Tansen (Bhagwati Jatra) is of a also indifferent. After the an- a large temple and spread the a procession, is different nature than the rest. nexation of the Sen-era Palpa goddesses’ fame by conduct- knownP as Khat Jatra, a tradition While, outwardly, it looks the kingdom into the Kingdom of ing a Sindur Jatra all around that has been followed in same as the others, this jatra, Nepal, disputes involving But- the region. Kathmandu Valley from the in which Goddess Bhagwati’s wal and Syuraj, along with the A pitched battle followed, in pre-Malla and Malla eras to statue is placed on a khat, is 22 villages of the east, resulted Jitgadhi of Butwal, against the the Shah era. Along with the celebrated to commemorate in war between the East India Company government force. campaign of nation-expansion, Nepal’s victory in the Palpa Company government and the Not once, but many, many, the custom of Khat Jatra, region during the Anglo-Nepal Nepal government. There were times, the defeated Company which was prevalent only in War of 1814-1816. many efforts from Nepal’s government forces had to re- Kathmandu Valley, began to be This jatra is not only linked side to prevent war between treat from Nepal. Nepal did also observed in other places to religion, but also to nation- the two countries. But, on not have to lose even an inch of of the country. Khat Jatra is alism. Therefore, this Bhag- November 1, 1814, Marcus of land here. After the victory in

50 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 51 Feature

this region, Colonel Ujir Singh Thapa, as per his oath, began construction of an impressive three-storied temple in B.S. 1872, which was completed in B.S. 1876. Having donated gold equal to his height for the temple’s gajur, and es- tablishing the silver canopied Mahisasur Mardini Bhagwati, whose 18-arms were made of asta-dhatu (eight-metals, Colo- nel Ujir Singh Thapa started the Khat Jatra, inclusive of Palpa Bhagwati’s Sindur Jatra, from B.S. 1877, on the day of Krishna Nawami. Till today, this Bhagwati Jatra has munity. After taking the rath by musical bands and danc- been traditionally observed as three times around the temple, ers, as well as soldiers of the a celebration of victory. first of all, the Colonel puja is Nepal Army, shield and sword One day before the jatra, on done. Taking the rath out of carrying soldiers of Gurujyu’s the night of Krishna Asthami, the main gate, which is consid- paltan, police personnel, gov- the local Nepal Army com- ered to be the largest gate in ernment employees, students, mander places Colonel Ujir the country, it is taken to the the general public, and various Singh Thapa’s offering on the original site of the Palpa dur- associations and organizations, khat in which Bhagwati’s statue bar, where the Chief District it enters the Nepal Army bar- has been placed. The next Officer conducts his worship. racks, where it is offered a day, at an auspicious time, the Only after this is the rath open salami before conduct of Bhag- judge gives his permission for for worship by all and sundry. wati puja by the Nepal Army. the rath (chariot) to be lifted, According to old-timers, in the When entering the barrack’s but the rath is lifted only after years gone by, if some victim of gates, the soldiers themselves the Nepal Army has offered its injustice appealed for justice on lift the rath on their shoulders. felicitations. The rath is lifted this day, the rath would move Another basic aspect of by 48 people, who are called forward only after the con- this jatra is the arrangement pipas. These lifters, who wear a cerned individual’s case had of a regular priest to conduct black tika on their forehead and been adjudicated by the judge. daily rituals and worship in the a scarf tied around the neck, After the rath is paraded temple. The priest has to be are all from the Kumhal com- around the city, accompanied someone with the knowledge of conducting rituals associ- ated with Matri Mandali of the Devi’s temple according to Hindu rites and rituals. Two hundred years ago, Colonel Ujir Singh Thapa had brought in Chandramani Gubhaju of Mayur Vihar, Lalitpur, to Palpa, to conduct Nitya-naumai- tik puja and Barsha Bandhan puja (karak puja), and tantric rituals and worship during Kalaratri Asthami and Chaite , etc. The descendants of this very same Gubhaju have been conducting worship in this temple till date. This Palpa Bhagwati Jatra, considered to be the symbol of bravery, patience, strategic skill, patriotism, and victory, has al- ways been bringing nationalism to the forefrongt.

52 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 When the Giant Roamed the Valley Streets Photo story One of the myths behind the Gathamuga festival, celebrated every year, is as interesting as the proceedings of the festivities.

Samridhi shrestha amar danuwar rai

54 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 55 Photo story

n the month of Shrawan, Patan. He made the lives of the Earth by cutting her. Later, an intriguing spectacle residents miserable by snatching however, as the effectiveness of befalls the ever-festive their children off the streets and box farming became apparent, INewar-dominated cities homes at night, and devouring the residents, whose sustenance of , Patan, and them mercilessly. Outraged and depended on farming, also cel- Kathmandu. During the day, fed up of his torturous acts, the ebrated him. a boisterous crowd gathers at villagers united in an attempt to The entire day of Gathamuga intersections, shouting and slay him, and so, fuelled by rage, is mystical in itself. It is the day hooting at a curious looking they viciously attacked him, suc- to appease spirits, as they are at dummy made of straws with cessfully killing him in the end. their strongest on this day. Pujas a face painted on a nanglo, It is this victory, a depiction are conducted at new homes to which anywhere out of the of that fateful day, when the drive away any unwelcome spir- festive atmosphere would have villagers dragged his body all its by lighting chital, the smoke of been haunting. It is the figurine across the street and at night which acts as a repellent. Similar- representing Ghanta Karna, the burnt him, that is celebrated as ly, iron, another repellent to un- monstrous figure whose story Gathamuga. The figurine, too, wanted energy, is nailed to doors dates back to ancient times. is in a similar manner dragged and worn as rings. Fire torches The legend of Ghanta Karna across streets as people haul in- are lit at intersections, especially is one of the stories surround- sults and cheer. The giant, how- four-way intersections, as they ing the festival of Gathamuga. ever, was more than a monster; are the portal and the dwelling Note: To know more According to popular belief, he was also a pioneer farmer. It of the other world. Gathamuga is about this unique festival and get a different Ghanta Karna, a giant with bells is believed that Ghanta Karna also the cue for a festive season; perspective, please hanging from his ears, as the was the first to introduce box with all the unwelcome spirits check out : Gathamuga: name suggests, roamed the cities farming. Initially, he was in- gone, the people can now joyfully Farewell to the Helpful by Alok Tuladhar of Bhaktapur, Kathmandu, and sulted for disrespecting Mother engage in the festivals that follow. (http://goo.gl/HdHZXn)

56 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 57 Photo story

Festivals to look forward to

Father’s Day: September 1, 2016 Teej: September 4, 2016 This colorful festival can be witnessed as The day to honor fathers and shower them The day to fast and pray for the health and a great celebration especially in the city of with gifts! wellbeing of brothers and husbands, all the Patan. while dancing and singing with your ladies' Daar Day: September 3, 2016 squad. Ghatasthapana: October 1, 2016 The day when ladies partake of a scrumptious The grand festival of Dashain officially starts feast before beginning their rigorous fast on Bakkar Eid: September 13, 2016 from this day. the day of Teej. Jatra: September 15, 2016

58 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 59 Photo story

60 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 61 ping and visiting various chaityas of the valley. Chaitya Puja is followed by Bwagi, a procession that visits all the chaityas of Gunla: A Month Lalitpur valley prior to Matya. People play traditional music and chant hymns about Buddha Feature and go around town before the of Holiness break of dawn. But since the Bwagi only travels for a couple In the sacred month of Gunla, there is always something to of hours before sunrise each look forward to. day, the journey may stop at one point and then continue the next Anutara Shakya Anup Pradhan day, this goes on for 5 to 6 days until all the chaityas have been covered but that is just the be- s the month of month of Gunla usually falls in of the 5 elements, water, air, ginning. Bwagi is a prologue for Shrawan comes the month of Shrawan. It begins earth, fire and space and hold up- Matya, one of the most awaited along, shades of red a day after the New Moon. Gun most importance in Buddhism. festivals for Patan locals. and green begin to means nine in Newari and La In fact the chaityas are so revered A Matya also falls in the month appear in every corners of the means month, it’s the ninth that Deepak Bajracharya, a Bud- of Gunla, about two weeks after street, the rain continues to pour month in Nepal Sambat. All dhist priest says that even objects the Bwagi ends, a day after Gai and temples seem to be more throughout Gunla, processions that take the shape of a chaitya Jatra. Mataya also involves walk- known rituals take place inside one of the oldest Buddhist scrip- crowded than usual. Shrawan of different kinds take place are not destroyed during Gunla. ing around Patan to cover all Patan and Kathmandu’s bahals, tures. But what is more interest- is a holy month for the Hindu around Kathmandu and Lalit- “Any object that has a dome the chaityas. The procession is the traditional courtyards. These ing about the Juuga Panchadaan women who fast in the name of pur, some big and some small structure and a pinnacle on top a long line of participants who bahals bring out their relics for is that the night before, people Shiva, the destroyer and while but everything that is unique in such as garlic cloves are not al- walk continuously for 12 hours to display while the priests visit each flock to Swayambhu to see its these women celebrate Shrawan, its own way. lowed to be destroyed during the pay homage to the 2200 chaityas of them. These relics include an shadows show up in the clouds. the Buddhist community awaits Gunla begins with Chaitya month. So to avoid that, people around Patan. They make offer- ancient map of Kathmandu valley The silhouette of Swayambhu can for the beginning of its holiest Puja where the chaityas both separate the garlic cloves before ings such as rice, camphor, money in Guitole, Patan; a golden Prag- be seen showing up in four direc- month, the Gunla. small and big are cleaned up, pol- the month starts.” he says. and sweets in memory of the loved yaparamita scripture in Thamel; tions in the night sky and no one According to Nepal Sambat ished with oil and worshipped. Most of the rituals during the ones they lost last year but in the a statue of Aaju in Ihibahi, has been able to explain why. This or the Lunar Calendar, the Chaitya’s symbolize the harmony Gunla revolves around worship- spirit of Gai Jatra, merry making Patan and giant grains of rice be- phenomenon occurs only once or and humor is a part of the show lieved to be from the Yug at twice and only during Gunla, that and people enjoy the music and Ikkachen, Patan. adds to its mystery. jokes that accompany the travel. Gunla is not short of traditional Gunla is revered as a sacred Matya is followed by making more rituals, jatras and festivities that month in the Lunar calendar trips to other chaityas of the valley take over the city. While most of because a number of festivities such as Swayambhu, and the cha- the rituals are peaceful in nature, fall in this month. But if we are ityas in Sunakoti and Chapagaon. the Bhin Dyo Jatra or the Bhimsen to view these activities from a Some of the more popular fes- Jatra is its wild cousin. The small scientific window, the activities tivities that fall in Gunla are Janai idol from the Bhimsen temple in done in Gunla have a lot of health Purnima, Gai Jatra and Krishna Patan Durbar Square representing benefits as well. Gunla falls dur- Janamastami. Unlike other festi- the 7-foot Bhimsen that is also situ- ing the monsoon, and health vals, these are celebrated by both ated inside the temple is brought is usually compromised during and Buddhists. Gai Jatra out for a stroll around Patan. this season, with infections and offers merriment to the people Taking place during the evenings fever easily transferring from one during the gloomy weather and accompanied by alcohol and mu- another. Harming animals and lifts up the spirit with its light sic, the Bhin Dyo Jatra adds the consuming meat products are not hearted jokes and humor. Krishna excitement that people have been allowed during Gunla but when Janamastami is celebrated with the missing during this month. you think about it, meat products vibes of a street festival when a One of the most mysterious spoil easily and are the quickest to sea of devotees visits the Krishna sessions of Gunla comes towards get contaminated. Instead people temple in Patan Durbar Square. the end of the month. Juuga Pan- drink a bowl of Kwati, to provide Janai Purnima includes consum- chadaan or Yala Panchadaan takes energy and immunity. This time ing Kwati, a healthy soup made place a day before Father’s Day. Its of the year also includes cleaning out of 9 lentils and also offering procession is similar to the Yala chaityas, since the rain might grow it to the frogs for bringing in the Panchadaan that takes place early moss on these stone structures. rainy season and to the crows who during Gunla. Devotees make of- All of these features are incorpo- are believed to be messengers ferings to the high priests and they rated while the jatras add merri- of the rain god Indra. But lesser also get to view Pragyaparamita, ment during the gloomy weather.

62 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 63 Street. Food. Love. If you are the unconventional of kind and are truly in love with food, then you are probably not the kind to be thrown off by the possibility of a little stomach ache.

Akriti Shilpakar

he real taste of any culture rests in 2) Sekuwa: The Nepali-style barbecue – Sekuwa, the street food the place has to offer. is as much a loved weekend-get-together plan as it The ever-bustling city of Kathmandu is is a popular street dish. A growing trend in Kath- thriving with gastronomic adventures mandu street food scene, you will find at least one at every corner, galli and chowk. We sekuwa stand in vicinity. While the crowd favourite takeT you to a journey that entails delicious encoun- choice of meat is buff, you will find unconventional ters at each stop. These humble are closer stands or thela serving luscious pork too. These to a common man’s heart and budget, bursting charred proteins are smoked over burning coal with flavours, and may cause a slight rumbling of and is served in bite-size chunks along with the the stomach. But the probability of a little stomach ubiquitous tomato achaar and red-chilli sauce. ache should not scare you off from taking up this We found our favourite at Basantapur. They serve journey. Come join us! theirs alongside bubble rice and it is delicious.

64 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 65 Food Master Craftman @ work Stick Food: Easy, accessible and delicious, stick food in Ne- KHUKURI HOUSE pal is a beautiful assemblage of HANDICRAFT INDUSTRY western delights such as sausage Real blades since 1991, blades forged to serve and salami, and eastern delicacies like alu chop and tofu. Deep fried WITNESS THE LIVE MAKING AND TRY OUT YOURSELF and served with spicy sauces, most everything-on-a-stick stalls sprinkle a good amount of black salt over the order to give it a tart-y effect. A few sticks of one of each on the menu keep your 6 Jungle Plus 3 Chirra 12 Survival Khukuri Price: Rs 4400 Price: Rs 7350 Price: Rs 6900 stomach from growling out of hunger during a shopping spree, FREE until you are ready for a proper Hotel/ Home meal. Also light on the wallet, [1 year Delivery it isn’t a surprise to see on-the- Guarantee + Price: Rs 6100 Lifetime Warranty] SVC no.1 Sharkhari Chukuri Pro Dhankute Wooden KHHI Max budget students hovering around Get an exclusive Price: Rs 4040 Price: Rs 8400 Price: Rs 8000 these stalls, sharing a bite and Warranty Card for each knife Dragon a whole lot of laughs with their - High Quality Khukuris friends. & Knives from Nepal’s # 1 maker - Tested over and over Price: Rs 5500 Panipuri/Chat: A borrowed before it is nally street snack from our southern delivered/sold GI3 Operation Enduring KHHI Bowie Survival Knife R3C Price: Rs 11020 neighbour, panipuri and chat has Price: Rs 7300 Freedom Price: Rs 3305 Price: Rs 6244 found its way from our stomach to our heart and made a place for itself there. Panipuri is a concoc- tion of crispy fried semolina balls, filled with seasoned mashed pota- toes and lentils, and served with a tangy sauce. Chat is a messy but delicious mix of potatoes, crisp fried bread, yogurt, chopped onions, chickpeas, and of course a tangy sauce. Fulfilling and very budget friendly, feel no shame in popping mouthfuls of panipuri one after the another, or order as many plates as you can consume of the sinful chat. It is after all, the streets.

Flavoured Soda: As a kid, the marble at the neck of soda bottle was always fascinating. After every gulp, I would check to see if the marble is still there, and it always was. It is still a won- drous invention to me, but I have but this also means you can experiment loved street food in Nepal. A quick mix of moved on to more satisfying dis- with it at each visit. There is nothing better bubble rice, instant noodles, peas, pota- coveries within soda. Flavoured that can help you beat the summer heat of toes, chilli, tomato sauce, and a squeeze soda at Ranjanagalli has man- Kathmandu than a cool glass of soda from of lime is all it takes, and the didi or dai aged to excite and mesmerize its Ranjanagalli. preparing it will do it in the speed of light. customers for years now. Just to The spice-level of the dish can be fixed see the assortment of colourful Chatpate: Many a food-horror stories according to your taste, so let the maker bottles at this hole-in-the-wall begin with chatpate, and yet every time know of it. Served in a paper cone, with place is refreshing. Choosing we come across a chatpate stand we will paper slips for spoon, the dish is as street- from a long list of flavours such buy at least Rs. 20 worth of it as if we are friendly as it can get. If you haven’t tried it as cola, lime, raspberry, orange, in a trance like state. That is the magic of yet, it is highly recommended you do, even etc. can be exhausting at times, chatpate, one of the most common and if it is at a risk of a stomach ache.

66 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 REVIEW l CRAFTCraftED TALE l pLACE OF CRAFT l CRAFT MAKER l Craft shop On the edge Crafted tale Silauta (stone pestle grinder) is a traditional grinder used to crush spices and mill seeds and grains. These are kitchen hand-me-downs that families use for generations.

lunibha shakya

line of (stone- “Hmm... give it in 300” the cus- The Patharkat allows her to interact is a caste designated with the society, cutters) hucksters tomer bargains, Manbhakti is taken to stone carving. not bearing a tattoo arrange an array of aback, she tries to convince the person However, people of any kind would silauta shops on the more by showing the difference in the who belong to this outcast her from A caste are slowly her society. It would edge of the road in Sitapaila. At a sizes and the heaviness of her stone shifting from this also mean that she distance, Manbhakti Patharkat from grinders. “Didi I will make it 700,” occupation to other cannot use the Nawalparasi, Dhuntibas, is excited and the customer replies, “300.” opportunities. The public sources of Patharkat people water. to see observers acknowledging her “650” in the remote areas husband’s stone works. She skips “300” of Nepal are still Silauta can only be her way from under the umbrella “600” demeaned for their made with stones work. that bear lines. The of her sister’s roadside silauta shop “300” Patharkat people and runs to her own umbrella. “500 didi” “I continued to do who work in this “Do you like it? These are really “400.” this work, but my field, travel all the children won’t. They way to India’s Binaya good and heavy, which one do you should go after Khola (river) to find want?” She shows it to her customer And as she takes in her money, better opportunities.” these ‘Darshani who is still wondering if she should Manbhakti closes her eyes and touch- Dhungah (name of The tattoo in the stone).’ invest her money on the stone grinder. es her head and heart with the money, Manbhakti’s feet Manbhakti then starts to demonstrate to take blessings from her first laxmi the worthiness of her stone by hit- (Goddess of money) of the day. And ting it with hammer. ‘Tung Tung’ it then she looks at me and says, “Ke resonates and she smiles, “Didi see garne, bhakhar bwani hudain cha it makes a wonderful sound, this will bahini.” (This is my first earning of last you for years.” the day, sister.)

70 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 71 TravelEXPERIENCE l MY JOURNEY l TRAVELOGUE l PEOPLE

Find your way through different parts of the hidden alleys of Patan.

September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 73 People of Khumbu Photo story Khumbu is predominantly Sherpa country, but there are many other ethnicities, as well, who live and endeavor in this rugged land.

malin gurung amar danuwar rai

74 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 75 Photo story

n the far-flung valley of Khumbu, people live through the banality of living but not without the expectancy of a fuller the myriad teahouses and lodges Iexistence, just like any group of scattered through the trekking people anywhere in the world route. Some have even shifted to would. And just like the lives villages like Pangboche and So- anywhere in Nepal, the lives mare, which lie midway through here finds distinction in the sar- the route to base camp. donicism of the bucolic belying These are the same villages austerity. which are hub of activities dur- For the native Sherpas of the ing peak seasons. It takes one to valley, for whom the money-mak- closely look beyond this interim ing route to Everest cuts right air of fullness, though, to see that through their villages, a sense these villages have lost a sizeable of enterprise precedes over ev- part of its population. Most part erything. While the natives may of the year, the cheery languid- enjoy entitlement in the region’s ness is replaced by desolation, bustling tourist trade, for many and an overbearing banality south to the region, Khumbu is While the natives may enjoy entitlement in the region’s bustling tourist takes over these lives. trade, for many south to the region, Khumbu is their own promised land. their own promised land. Those remaining, who have Those who can discern the not acted on the reverie of differences, superficial and oth- greater promised lands, find erwise, between the people of meaning to their lives in devo- Nepal’s many ethnic communi- tion. For them, an allegiance to ties will readily see that the valley the religion, a school of Tibetan is made up of many ethnicities Buddhism, takes the same high other than the Sherpas. The place as enterprise does for largest in number, perhaps, are many. the Rais from low-lying districts who hike up to the highlands every peak season to work in

76 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 77 Lying on the route to Everest, the Khumbu valley’s major“ generator of employment is naturally linked to the expeditions that regularly, every climbing season, make their way through this rugged valley in search of achievement and glory.

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80 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 religion. It was only found in Timal Region until it became an important trade commod- ity. Now, it is being farmed in various region of Nepal, and China. A single piece of Buddha Chiitta can be priced from Rs 2000 to Rs 9 lakhs.

Other Attractions: Timal Region also offers Raft- ing in Sunkoshi, canyoning, off road biking, caving and sight-seeing. It also has 2 major hiking trails not very far from Kathmandu. The Great Bud- dhist Master Trail is a 4-5 days trek on goreto bato leading to under construction roads. The major places on this trek AAN is set to orama view of to sankha, dhangro (Drum), are Panauti, Namo Buddha, build a memorial Mt Everest. dhorje and Buddha Chitta. Kot Timal, Narayanthan and park for all the The memorial park will Nepalthok with the altitude lives that have house a tourism museum and Historical Importance: range of 508m- 2130m. The been lost in the the area around it will be have The name Timal is derived other trail which is the, Mahab- Tcourse of trekking and moun- tree plantation to be individu- from Ter Mala, the initial harat Rhododendron Trail is a taineering in Nepal. The ally named after the deceased name of the place. It is be- trek of 5 days. The key places park, to be built at Chanpk- trekkers/trekking staff and lieved that Timal danda is the are Nepalthok, Phusregang, hori of Kavre district, will be also their family members. place where Padma Sambhav Katarche, Godhchuli, Deurali located on the top of the hill had meditated during 8th Monastry with the altitude of of Timal danda at 2130m. What to See: century in a sacred cave which 515m-2265m. The trails are The site which is about 73 Carving on the walls of a is now looked after by the best to hike during entire km away from Kathmandu cave in the shape of the ’s locals. Buddha Chitta is a season of autumn, winter and will afford a 180 degree pan- body, phurpa (a weapon), sacred mala to the Buddhist spring season.

An Ode to Place Mountaineers TAAN is taking an important step to ensure that the tourism memorial park will be a place to remember and pay homage to the lives lost in the mountains.

Prajwal maharjan Place

Suitably representative of Nepal’s rich cultural heritage, this is the kind of scene that amazes visitors from China, so much so that many make great efforts to capture in their memories through photogra- phy and writing.

Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche, was an 8th-century Indian Buddhist master who propagated tantric Buddhism to the people of Tibet.

A spectacular sunset seen from Timal Danda on the Timal trekking trail. Yangzhou Fried Rice Yangzhou is a well-known city in China, but what makes it well- known is the Yangzhou Fried Five Chinese restaurants you Rice. Adding the green beans, carrots, eggs and meat into the 11am- 4pm from Thu-Mon, rice, this Chinese dish is not closed in 3pm Nov-Jan. need to go in Kathmandu only tasty but also colorful and Jawalakhel The best way to cure the homesick is satisfy your taste bud. good-looking. This is the taste of 5 hometown, when I tried it first Huan Chinese Kitchen (Lag- time in Tianfu Hotel, I am deeply ankhel Satdobato Rd) yiqing luo moved and touched. Wanton Soup can’t imagine how surprised Other resorts around You have tried Wanton Soup in when I found this soup in Hotel Garden of dreams a beauti- China, but what about Nepal? In Chengdu. After lots of delicious ful historical garden located Hunan Chinese Kitchen which is but hot Sichuan cuisine, a bowl at Kaiser Mahal, Kathmandu. located in Jawalakhel, you can of mushroom soup will With colorful flowers and green try Chinese Wanton cooked in special Nepali way. The cover refresh your mind and calm leaves around, you can enjoy the Other Places around the Central Zoo in Jawalakhel down your taste bud. peaceful ambiance and also gain of Wanton is smooth. What’s Central Zoo: if you hope (near the Jawalakhel bus stop) Jia Lin Ge East dumplings (ad- the peace in mind. It is opened more, the soup is impressive hav- to explore natural world of must be your best choice. dress: Amrit Marga) from 9am-10 pm. ing black pepper, carrots, green Nepal by riding elephants or This Zoo open at 10:00-17:00 Narayanhity Palace Museum: vegetables and black mushroom watching wild animals, then from Sunday to Saturday. Three kind of cold mixed veg- The former royal palace that inside. Eating the juicy Wanton etables witnesses the history of Shah Dy- along with the savoury soup, it Are there anything which can nasty, the last dynasty of Nepal. gives you an illusion that you are give you energy in hot summer Situated in Durbar Marg, Kath- in China now. better than Chinese cold dishes? mandu, the museum is opened Mixed crispy grated carrots, grat- ed cucumbers and Chinese rice noodle with vinegar and chilly oil, this dish is famous in China for its sour, spicy and refreshing taste. Open your mouth, put this dish along with some coriander, that’s the taste of heaven. “Why you can stay in Nepal Chengdu is fresh-tasting. Pickled Chinese mee (address: Thamel for such a long time without in traditional Chinese brine, the Jyatha Amrit Marg) feeling homesick?” as a Chinese, trotter becomes brown with the after two months in Nepal, my taste of spice likes anise, wild Egg in fermented glutinous rice friend asked me such a question. pepper and ginger. With the soup “Because I have my own special sauce made of green Are you interested in Chinese magic,” I smiled and answered. chilly and vinegar, the taste of traditional dessert? Why not try This magic is nothing but good trotter is so palatable that though the egg in fermented glutinous Chinese restaurants in Kath- it is spicy which makes people’s rice soup which is also known mandu which help me get rid mouths turn red, nobody can as “sweet wine” or “rice wine” of the homesick. No matter you stop eating them. in China? The soup is sweet with are Chinese staying in Nepal or the taste of both rice and wine. Nepali who are interested in Chi- Chicken mushroom soup The egg inside is cooked in the nese food, there are 5 Chinese If you are fans of mushroom, right time which not only make restaurants you need to go. you can’t miss this yummy soup. the taste smooth but also keep Many kinds of mushroom such the original taste of egg. What’s Thamel as Agrocybe aegerita, a kind of more, the noodle there are also Hotel Chengdu (address: Thamel mushroom which is commonly very delicious. As Chinese, I was Marg, Kathmandu) used in Chinese soup, and oyster so surprised to find this tradi- mushroom and be tasted. As tional dessert in Kathmandu, Trotter (pig’s feet) Chinese who grew in Guangdong don’t be hesitate, just go and try. What’s your first impression on province, a place that famous for Tianfu Hotel (address: Jyatha Trotter? Oliy? No, the Trotter in its diverse kinds of soup, you Marg, Kathmandu)

86 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 87 I had to say, I was scared and I wanted to get off as soon as possible. Fortunately, some people got off and I got a seat. Finally, I settled down. Combining English and my limited nepalese, I got up enough nerve to ask a gentleman when should I get off.”Dai, would you please tell me to get off at Sway- ambhunath?” Thanks to his help, I arrived safe and sound. My adventure on tempo seems to worn me out but I do appreciate every kind people I met along the way. The bus conductors here are the people I have complicated at- titude to. On the one hand, they are so nice that asking someone to help me find another bus. On the other, they keep getting people on the bus which makes me hardly have a space to stand. When I got on a bus in rush hour, I experienced the most crowed bus I have ever did. Hav- ing a time taking subway in peak time in Guangzhou, which some- one watched videos on his phone right upon my head, I thought I can adapt myself to the crowed. However, I am so wrong. I should have known there is was not a spectator anymore. I the bus stop that I could find the no limit in the universe, so as adventure crowed public transportation. was not a tourist sitting on the right bus. So we walk for around tourist bus with air conditioner. 25 minutes to the bus stop. I got on a bus that I won’t get “Oh my god.” I blurted my A tempo came, my dear friend on if I am in China. A slim young stock out again while a man asked a gentleman on the tempo lady’s upper body leaned against on the tempo jumped on our tempo and stood and asked me to get on the the window because she needed One of the best way to learn about a country is to take the public transportation. at the small stair outside the tempo quickly. I got no time to to give more space to the old lady compartment. People inside ask when should I get off and 5 besides her. I got my two feet on A Chinese girl “survived” hanging outside the tempo shares her unfordable the tempo looked at me with seconds later, I stood on the iron the ground for five minutes and memory of Kathmandu public bus. a smile, seemed like telling me stair while my body outside the after the conductors “invited” take it easy. compartment. My real tempo more people to share the stale Text by Lin Wan I realized I was still an out- trip was on. air on the bus, one of my feet sider and I needed more time to Clutching the iron frame got no space for itself. We were “ ake out your camera! time, my dear friends showed Finally, after bargained with experience and understand the inside the tempo as tightly as all together and we didn’t need There are people hang- her concerns about how can I the taxi driver for 18 days, I took local lifestyle. possible, the only idea I hold at to worry about falling down ing outside the bus” survive the public transportation a tempo on the way to Open Sui The bus stops and route that that time was, do not fall out of because people besides me kept I was shocked by the in Kathmandu. Mai momo in my local friends’ well-coordinated between local the tempo and be safe. The way me still. T people and bus drivers do make to is so bumpy “Pong pong pong.” The con- courage that the people had The fascinating culture of company. I got a chance to ob- and surprised that what I have Nepal motivates me to set out on serve the local people in a close me confused. I got a hard time and I swayed along the road. My ductor beat the bus hard to re- seen in the movies were on in my first journey to South Asia. I distance. looking for the right bus. sweaty palms were so slippery minding people that the bus was the reality. don’t want to have a browse in One day, I decided to take a that I relieved one of my hands leaving. I put on my earphone “Click.” I took the pictures of a country for a few days and I space, 13 people. bus to Swayambhunath Stupa. to evaporate the sweat. because I got a seat at the back that brave young man and shared believe only by living like a local Newari women with traditional Just get lost and try, this beautiful With one hand holding the of the bus and there are still some the pictures with my friends in Nepali can I experience the real clothes, students with city need my exploitation. When frame, my whole body’s muscle seats for others on the bus. What China. Besides being surprised Nepal. I need to take the public and men with portfolio, all sat by I was about to leave, my friend was in tense. Suddenly, a sharp a day! I am going to enjoyed the and saying unbelievable all the transportation here. I told myself. me. At the moment, I felt like I suggested that she took me to tun flung my body to one side. scenery along my bus trip.

88 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 89 sour, hot and spicy all at once. Food The soupy consistency made the momo taste even better.I have a very low threshold for spicy food I found the taste of and which is why each momo I had, I followed it with a gulp of cold water. But I simply could not stop eating despite the hotness. Nepalese people prefer to eat hometown in Nepal Jhol momo when it rains as com- fort food. They say it refreshes Hometown is nowhere, unless you can remember the you and helps you get rid of taste of it. the gloom. My teacher said he prefers to eat Jhol momo during yiqing luo winters to warm himself up. The bowl of Jhol momo in- deed warmed me quite a bit. t was my first visit to Ne- I ordered the Jhol buff momo. was soft as ever and I found it The momo reminded me of my pal. After a five-hour long There is a saying in Nepal that very easy to chew. hometown and along with it flight to Nepal, I thought if you eat momo, then you must It was Jhol achar, which was came the memories of living with I would be homesick in a eat buff momo to know the taste the most impressive part. This my grandmother. I hope that one country that I was totally right. After trying my first momo staple accompaniment of momo, day I will bring her to Nepal to unfamiliarI with. To my surprise, I in Nepal, it was clear I had made I was told, was made of tomato, try the local momo. found the taste of my hometown the right choice. It did taste like chilly, brown sesame seed, on- “We want to show a lot of young in Nepal. Chinese dumplings and the buff ion and fresh coriander. It was Shumai and Sui Mai (open Sherpas that they can make their own momo) Momo and Dumplings A journey to south of China lives like we have, and teach them how Geographically, I come from (especially Zhuangdong prov- to run their own businesses.” one of the southern provinces ince, Hongkong and Macow) of China, where dumplings are without trying Dim Sum cannot not as popular as they are in the be considered complete. Dim end. For my family, Dim Sum is friends guided me to Ghangri north of China. Yet, growing up Sum is a style of Chinese cuisine the symbol of reunion, where all cafe, which was inside Hardic I have had a fair share of dump- prepared as small bite-sized family members get together to Fitness Center in Jhamsikhel, lings sprinkled with vinegar. portions of food served in small enjoy this food. Eventually as to try the Sui Mai Momo for the Every time I eat a plateful now, steamer baskets or on small we all got busy with college and first time. it reminds me of my grand- plates. Every lover of authentic work, the occasions to reunite I loved this novel yet familiar mother who prepared a bowl of Chinese cuisine and especially with my family and feast on Dim dish. Not only was the appear- dumplings for me as breakfast. Dim Sum, must be familiar with Sum became less. ance similar to Shumai but the It was that bowl of dumplings one of the famous Dim Sum This is the reason why I was taste was very much alike as that accompanied me to sleep at dishes Shumai. To my surprise, so excited when I found Sui well. What distinguished Sui night and awakened me in the Nepal also has a similar food Mai in Nepal. It seemed that Mai from its Chinese version, morning. called Sui Mai. although my family were not however, were the accompani- In an area called, Ekantaku- As a native of Southern Chi- together, we could still share ments served along with it. na, behind an old mosquito na I grew up with having Dim similar food and cherish each Ghangri Café served us with screen, crossing a dark corridor, Sum with my family every week- other’s memory. Two Nepali three different sauces to put in I entered a local restaurant called three of the four pockets of the “Drop in restaurant” with my open momo – green chutney, Nepalese teacher. There they tomato ketchup and Nepali were selling street style Nepalese momo achar. The mixture of Momo. My teacher said that this these three different sauces particular kind of momo was made the taste amazing and similar to Chinese dumpling but unique, which cannot be tasted I found it hard to believe. It was in Chinese Shumai. quite difficult for a Chinese girl Since, Nepal is close to Chi- who has never experienced au- na, their food culture shares thentic Nepali food, to imagine something in common. As a how dumplings here would look Chinese tourist, I appreciated and taste like. As if my teacher that I can try Nepalese local could read my mind, he reas- food, and at the same time, find sured me that I would, in fact, the taste of my hometown so far like it. away from it.

90 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 September 2016 | ECS NEPAL 91 THE SINGLETON OF GLEN ORD Diageo PLC, along with its of- TheBuzzl l ficial distributor, Global Trading Market Watch Events News Concern Pvt. Ltd., launched two new Single Malt Whisky on 2nd August 2016 in Kathmandu. The Singleton of Glen Ord 15 Years and 18 Years Oldarenew addition to the current line of The Singleton of Glen Ord brand. Complex and confident, the 15 year old reveals itself at its own el- egant pace.With hints of melon and summer citrus fruit, it exudes firm waxy notes and rich floral aromas. Priced at Rs. 6,900, it provides a richness that builds to provide a gloriously warming sensation as you drink it. Less spicy and more mature, the 18 year old is slightly darker in colourand deeper in flavour. It is full and cooling with the aromas Hidden Life Foundation of walnuts and antique oak.With elegant orange oil and rich fruit, Hidden Life Foundation (HLF) is HLF, through different care centres, it provides splendid mouth-coating richness. Valued at Rs 10,050, it the first-of-its-kind organization in provides basic social and income- isbest enjoyed near or with a drop of water. Nepal that supports those who are generating skills and opportunities unjustly put into prison, mainly due to the former prisoners who wish to to their poor economic conditions, start afresh, away from any crime 50th Anniversary of The British School by paying their bail amount, so that related activity. HLF, which has so August 20,2016 those who have suffered can reunite far helped secure the release of 23 One of the most prestigious and patrons, faculty, alumni, and parents. renowned international schools The guests were entertained with with their families. HLF also focuses prisoners in Kathmandu, Bhaktapur, of Nepal, The British School melodious musical performances on the welfare of the prisoners, mak- Lalitpur, Palpa, and Dhulikhel, seeks commemorated its 50th year of by the students, and intrigued by ing sure that their hygiene and living even the smallest amount of dona- establishment at Yak and Yeti Hotel. the speeches ofMr. Richard Morris, standards are improved through tions to help secure the lives of the Officially opened in 1966, The British Ambassador to Nepal, donation of variousitems,such as people who are usually left unloved British School has been proffering and Mr. Chris Decker, Chair of creative and resourceful educational Governors–designate. The event water tanks, clothes, and shoes. in society. services to all students of all abilities, concluded with dance and dinner, helping them understand their roles where all present were engrossed as citizens of the global community. in the joyous atmosphere that CAM aniversary The lavish event became even celebrated The British School and Nepal Children’s Art Museum celebrated their 2nd Anniversary on the 23rd of July more stunning with presence of the its endeavours. where an art exhibition was held with interactive installation, along with a show of a brand new mural as well as slam poetry and musical performances. CAM partnered with Gettysburg College, Pensylvania in a two month summer abroad program this year, and all of the artwork exhibited at the museum was created by children in workshops conducted by Gettysburg students as part of their summer abroad with CAM Nepal. The organization aims to provide art facilities and experiences that are so noticeably absent in our country, by making a creative place for children so that they can freely express themselves through art, learn and feel proud of their identity at the same time. It aspires to encourage children’s appreciation of their culture and promotes self-expression through hands-on art experience. With the help of an enthusiastic group of volunteers and children’s groups, CAM has successfully worked on various events, exhibitions and workshops, and has established partnerships with various local and international social service organizations such as UNICEF, UNHCR, and CWIN. Concert for the Nation A concert based on the concept of original set and told their own originality, ‘Swadesh Bachauna stories through lyrics, the crowd Ma K Gardai Chu?’, saw the response was overwhelming. The Soaltee Uttar Dakshin Food Festival venue full of audience which was event was pretty much a treat for Soaltee Crowne Plaza organized Uttar Dakshin Food Festival to organized by Space and Frag- Rock and Metal music fans and provide a unique experience to the guests, where they got to experi- ments. While five bands, Down- in itself the statement of the musi- ence the authentic taste of the rich North and South Indian culinary stairs!, Steadfast, Elbowroom, cians what they are doing to save heritages. The extremely successful annual event was inaugurated by Fragments and Space played all the Nation. His Excellency Shri Ranjit Rae, Ambassador of India to Nepal. Delica- cies from Uttar and Dakshin were relished by all present. [email protected] ECS www.kathmanduecoresort.com Chandra Ban Eco-Resort courses Kathmandu, Nepal In order to improve the skills and knowledge of your household staff, ECS offers the following courses this month. Please let us know if you are interested in enrolling your staff for these courses. Phone: 442.6439, 98510.07.900 Email: [email protected] to book a place.

Employment Services Special Cooking Many excellent staff are registered with us, including cooks, guards, gardeners, maids and drivers. for household staff Our list is constantly updated. Interviews are carried at our office to help resolve language problems ECS cooking course is an opportunity for your maid Luxury lodge. between our clients and the staff. If you are looking for efficient and reliable staff, please or cook to improve his/her cooking skills. At the Beautiful, rural come and discuss your requirements with us and don’t forget to register your staff with us end of this course, participants will be able to work home-stay. before you leave. PLACEMENT FEE: Rs.5,000 as a cook independently and can even organize a Budanilkantha small party. The course content includes information under Shivapuri on different food items for practical cooking and forest. Basic English will also make them aware about kitchen hygiene. 35 minutes from language We teach them how to prepare Indian, Chinese city centre. for household staff and continental items, as well as basic Western Clean air. Splendid views Our English class for household staff enables cooking techniques like simmer, sauté, etc. We will over the valley. them to communicate with you in simple also discuss how to organize a kitchen, to prepare Minimum 2 English. Language structures are taught along menus, cutting techniques, steps for serving food nights stay. with vocabulary that is related to household during small and big parties. This course helps them SPECIAL matters (for daily use). Oral communication improve their skills so your staff will not only serve RATES FOR skills will be emphasized in this course rather you better while you are here, but they will find it RESIDENTS. than reading and writing skills. easier to find a job when you leave. Nepali Venue: Maharajgunj Fee: Rs.15,000 Language Indian cooking course CD Participates will be able to cook the Class for The revised ECS Nepali language CD is now following items. available. It gives you the chance not only to Stand out from the crowds & pollution ... Foreigners listen but also to practice your Nepali along yet not far ! ECS Services has been supporting 1) Chicken Biryani with the CD. We feel that this improved CD foreigners to learn the Nepali 2) Paneer Tawa Masala Choose Royal Astoria Hotel … will help you learn the Nepali language more Language (speaking, reading and 3)Bharwa Shimla Mirch effectively. A booklet comes with the CD. writing) for many years. If you would 4) Murgh Makhmali Kabab PRICE: Rs. 999 (including booklet) like to learn or improve your Nepali 5)Pudina Paratha vocabulary, please call us. Group or individual classes are available. Date: 28th August, 2016 House keeping & Time: 1:00pm to 5:00pm Venue: Maharajgunj food handling FEE: 1,500 Basic English for household staff Reading & Writing ECS is organizing food handling and hygiene course for your household staff. If you are unsure International cooking for household staff whether your staff is aware about hygiene then this Our clients and their staff often face course is the ideal course. This hands-on class includes problems when not communicating face Participants will be able to cook the daily hygiene, importance of hand washing to face. If your staff could read and write following items: and preparation of fruits and vegetables. We memos or notes, things could be easier for will teach them the proper way of cleaning - you. We present this reading and writing 1) Jerk style chicken tables, windows, kitchen floor and bathroom. course that will enable your household 2) Chicken with chunky pepper sauce We will also teach them how to take care of a staff to read notes/memos, write simple 3) Soba noodles with vegetables refrigerator. We will discuss how illness is spread Royal Astoria Hotel offers clean & comfortable deluxe sentences, and take telephone messages. 4) Insalata pizza and why the corner and behind the door is rooms with air condition at peaceful environment. This is a perfect This will also help your staff to get employed 5) Potatoes with spicy cheese sauce important to clean. We intend this course to help getaway for business or leisure travellers, families and friends. after you leave. your staff to clean the house properly. Seminar hall, wheel chair friendly room & studio rooms with Date: 25th September 2016 kitchenette for longer stay are available. Venue: Maharajgunj Time: 1:00pm- 5:00pm Special Package rates are offered for Nepalese and Foreigners: Venue: Maharajgunj Double/Twin room on B/B Rs. 3500/ US$ 35.00 nett. Fee: Rs. 1,500 Double/Twin room on Half Board Rs. 4500/ US$ 45.00 nett.

Maharajgunj, Kathmandu ECS Services offers staff employment services (cooks, Royal Astoria Hotel Phone: 442.6439/98510.07.900 watchmen, gardeners, housemaids and drivers); courses G.P.O. Box 981 Bansbari, Hattigaunda, Kathmandu, Nepal [email protected] for household staff (cooking and health); Nepali language Office Hour: Tel: 00977 1 4372884/4376845 /Fax: 00977 1 4378179 11:00am to 3:00pm for expatriates and English language for household staff. Email: [email protected] URL: www.astoria-hotel.com (Monday through Friday) We hope that these services provided by ECS help make your life more comfortable. 94 ECS NEPAL | September 2016 g]kfnL r'nf] NEPALI CHULO

Cultural Program Nightly Fine traditional Nepali & Newari Dining International Cuisine/American, Mexican, Indian & Continental Lunch & Dinner Party, Seminar and Banquet Facilities Tel: 01-4002009/01-4418206 Lazimpat, Kathmandu, Nepal Web: www.nepalichulo.com | email: [email protected] Spilled Ink Urban Walkability By Don Messerschmidt

ant to go for a walk in sphere. By late afternoon they’re down more intelligent, that is. It’s a correlation, the city? Choose your again and they stay low through to next not causation, so walking won’t neces- day, time and place care- morning. Walking when they’re highest sarily make you smart. But being smart Wfully, to avoid the worst is best. might encourage you to walk more. The of Kathmandu’s air pollution. Out in “Well, then,” I went on, “should I wear research is mostly from Western urbs and (by comparison) there’s far a face mask and, if so, which is best?” suburbs, where city planners are creating less pollution, so any day, any time, and His reply was discouraging. He pointed more, larger and safer environments. It’s almost any street or lane there is good. out that the particles most harmful to our called walkability, and walkability attracts The best time to go walking in Kath- lungs are so small that it takes an electron a better educated class of urban settlers, mandu is after a heavy rain, or while it’s microscope to see them. Most face masks mostly Millennials. raining if you don’t mind the wet. Rain simply don’t block anything that small, You may know them as Generation-Y clears the air, so mornings after it often though it’s better to wear one than not. or the Net Generation, those youthful dawn clear, rewarding you with snow That almost put me off walking alto- city-dwellers, your neighbors perhaps, peaks. Years ago, before Kathmandu gether, though I know that if I go out of who became adults round about the Mil- became so highly populated, overrun valley I can both walk and breathe more lennial Year 2000. They tend to be better with exhaust fumes and pollution from safely. educated and more upward aspiring than other sources, the high peaks were our When we decide to take the risk and previous generations. They also tend to daily sentinels, always there to be ad- walk in the city, common sense tells us to seek (demand) urban environments that mired. Nowadays, it is sometimes hard choose the least used streets and alleyways are walkable and bikeable, and that have to know if they still exist beyond the without speeding vehicles. And try to quality health care facilities and good brown cloud that smothers us. avoid tangling with bicyclists ‒ although schools. City planners around the globe Advising the best time of day to go not many bikes are seen these days on the are seriously addressing their demands walking is complicated. When I asked city’s chaotic streets. Biking the Ring Road by creating urban green belts, parks, a local air pollution expert, “Are early used to be popular; but that was then. Too fields, bike lanes, and walking-dedicated mornings a good time to walk?” he said much pollution is now. streets. “No. Too much pollution.” Now consider the following; it may In Nepal, Pokhara heads up my list “Evenings?” I asked. “Again, no. urge you to become a walker anyway. of walkable places to live. Not only can Mid-day is best,” he said. He explained Social researchers have found a positive you amble the streets and by-ways in rela- that around noon those microscopic correlation between the IQs of urban tive ease and safety, but you can be out particles that we inhale with every walkers vs. urban drivers. Those who trekking in the green hills under those breath will have risen up into the atmo- walk more and drive less appear to be magnificent snow peaks within minutes from Kalimati, Mahendra Pul or Lakeside. So, how does walkability happen? There’s an old proverb that say “If wishes were horses, beggars would ride.” It means that simply wishing for something nice, like pollution-free walkable environ- ments is not enough to make it happen. Action is required. Citizen action. So, promote walkability, get with it, get smart, go walking.

For more about walkability and whether or not walkers are smarter than drivers, see bbc.com/autos/ story/20160712-do-smart-people-walk-more. My conversation with the expert is approximately what was said, in the spirit of creative nonfiction. I can be contacted at [email protected], when not out walking. If you have a story about urban walking, send it to me to be considered for a Spilled Ink guest essay. For a good story about walking the city’s streets and alleys, read the first one in Pranaya Rana’s recently published book of short stories, ‘City of Dreams’ (2015), available in local bookstores. [DM]

98 ECS NEPAL | September 2016