COURT DOESN’T SPOIL VICTOR’S SECRET/2 KOHL’S NET UP/3 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheWEDNESDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 5, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 45 $2.00 Sportswear Best Western MILAN — Donatella Versace delivered a two-part fashion extravaganza on Tuesday, with her dual show for her Versace and Versus collections, held in a big television studio with 1,000 guests. Her message was that, regardless of the difficulties of the times, people want something to enjoy and desire. The clothes looked great, many with a luxed- up, rock ’n’ roll Western theme, including tuxedos styled to resemble Western shirts and bold coats with fringe. Here, her fringed pastel lynx coat, little top and ultralow-slung leather pants for Versace. For more on the season, see pages 4 to 7.

Courting Gen-Y: Forget the Hype, Find Street Cred By Valerie Seckler NEW YORK — What do Kenneth Cole and Coca-Cola have in common? Both are perceived as the real thing by the Millennial generation, marketing consultants contend. Achieving such status is a deceptively difficult trick for brand marketers to pull off, since most of them are Baby Boomers or Generation Xers who are too far removed from the Millennial culture to make an appeal that has IANNONI

G the sense of authenticity — and NNI A See Millennials, Page12 IOV G

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2003 WWDWEDNESDAY 5, Court Upholds Victor’s Secret Sportswear

By Joanna Ramey new protections for famous Proving economic harm is trademarks so companies could one means to prove dilution, the GENERAL MARCH Versace and Versus, Missoni, Miu Miu, Burberry Prorsum, Alberta Ferretti , WASHINGTON — Victor might quickly stop a look-alike name Supreme Court noted in its be able to keep his little secret a or logo from trading on the rep- Tuesday decision, but a show of 4 and Moschino were among the highlights as Milan runways wound down. little longer. utation or tarnishing the image economic harm isn’t essential. MARKETING: Designer brands are spending millions on ad campaigns aimed The Supreme Court on Tues- of an established company. Limited Brands, the parent 1 at the Millennials, yet most of youth culture remains unmoved by the efforts. day ruled against Victoria’s Se- Federal courts have offered company of Victoria’s Secret, The Supreme Court on Tuesday ruled against Victoria’s Secret’s claim that

WEDNESDAY cret’s claim that a small Ken- varying interpretations of how had a mixed reaction to the tucky lingerie and sex-toy shop the law’s “dilution” standard Supreme Court’s decision. 2 a small sex-toy shop called Victor’s Secret had infringed on its trademark. called Victor’s Secret had in- can be proved. “Although we would obvious- The press wanted to know about Kmart’s post-bankruptcy plans, but ceo

WWD, fringed on the national lingerie For example, the 6th Circuit ly have preferred for the Court Julian Day preferred to talk about honesty, discipline and leadership Tuesday. chains’ trademark. Court of Appeals, said Victor’s to rule in our favor on all points, 3 But Victoria’s Secret will have Secret’s similarity to Victoria’s we are gratified that it noted the SUZY: Frosty relations, with and without Nicole Kidman; the London another shot at proving its case. Secret is enough proof of dilution. unquestionable strength and 8 Symphony Orchestra celebrates, and mealtime at Tiffany. The High Court sent the mat- Even store owners Victor and value of the Victoria’s Secret Classified Advertisements ...... 15-19 ter back to a lower federal court Cathy Moseley’s changing of the brand and trademark,” the com- with some guidance: Federal law name to “Victor’s Little Secret” pany said in a statement. “In ad- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is requires evidence of “dilution” to wasn’t enough to avoid a viola- dition, the Court agreed with our [email protected], using the individual's name. a trademark name beyond “the tion, the appeals court ruled. primary argument that proof of SUBSCRIPTION RATES U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. mere fact that consumers mental- “While no consumer is likely actual economic harm is not re- All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. ly associate the junior users’ to go to the Moseleys’ store ex- quired to establish trademark Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information: (800) 289-0273; outside U.S. (856) 786-2140; group subscription information (856) 786-0963. mark with a famous mark,” as pecting to find Victoria’s dilution under federal law. We Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 10531, Riverton, N.J. 08076-0531. WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional Victoria’s Secret had claimed. Secret’s Miracle Bra, consumers will continue to vigorously pro- Friday issue in February, April, May, June, August, September, October and December, and one Saturday edition in However, the nine justices, in who hear the name Victor’s tect and defend the Victoria’s January, April, August and November, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. an unanimous opinion, shed few Little Secret likely automatical- Secret brand, and the Court’s de- WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., details as to what level of proof ly think of the more famous cision allows us to do that.” a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, is needed to show a violation of store and link it to the Moseleys’ The High Court’s ruling including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be the 1995 Federal Trademark adult-toy, gag-gift and lingerie counters a 4th Circuit Court of expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Dilution Act. That law added shop,” the appeals court ruled. Continued on page 19 Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 Printed in the U.S.A. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. Chico’s: Profits Up, Spinoff Set For Web site access, log on to www.WWD.com By Jennifer Weitzman Chico’s said net income for In Brief the three months ended Feb. 1 NEW YORK — War worries and soared 53.3 percent to $15 mil- snowstorms may have given lion, or 17 cents a diluted share, ● BEBE BATTERED: Bebe Stores Inc. on Tuesday said that prelimi- other retailers pause, but they a penny ahead of analysts’ esti- nary February same-store sales were down 15.2 percent and as a re- couldn’t stop Chico’s FAS from mates, compared with net in- sult, the specialty retailer now expects comparable-store sales for delivering double-digit increas- come of $9.8 million, or 12 cents, the first quarter to decrease in the low- to midteens. In a statement, es in profits, sales and compara- in the year-ago quarter. Sales for John Kyees, chief financial officer of the Brisbane, Calif.-based teen ble-store sales in the fourth the quarter increased 36.4 per- and contemporary specialty retailer, attributed the weak perform- quarter, or from unveiling plans cent to $138.3 million from ance to insufficient inventory in the casual portion of the sportswear for a new retail concept to make $101.4 million in the 2001 period category. Moreover, Kyees said Bebe’s traditional customer has “re- its debut in 2004. and, driven by greater traffic discovered Bebe at a slower rate than expected.” With the February The Fort Myers, Fla.-based and transactions that in many results, Bebe’s comps have fallen for 16 consecutive months. specialty retailer, which sells cases contradicted the experi- casual clothing to female Baby ence of its peers, rose 11 per- ● RWANDA GETS A BREAK: Rwanda has joined 18 other sub- Boomers, will begin testing a cent on a comp basis. Saharan African nations eligible for apparel and textile quota and nameplate in four to 10 new and The company also announced duty breaks. The Office of the U.S. Trade Representative formally independent stores, featuring February comps increased 5 per- extended the duty- and quota-free trade breaks to Rwanda under a an equal mix of activewear and cent, hurt by the Presidents’ Day trade measure enacted in 2000 covering sub-Saharan Africa and the intimate apparel, during the weekend blizzard, which forced Caribbean Basin. In addition, Rwanda was designated a Lesser first half of next year, Pat store closures throughout the The C Wear collection inspired Developed Country, which allows it to use fabric from anywhere in Murphy, general merchandise Northeast and Mid-Atlantic re- Chico’s next brand extension. the world until Sept. 30, 2004. manger, told investors on a gions. Comps that week fell in the pected to increase between 5 morning conference call. low-single-digit range, while the and 9 percent, analysts said ● WATTS NEXT: J.C. Watts Jr., the retired Oklahoma Congressman Terri Campana, who previous- rest of the month was positive. there is upside potential, given who served as chairman of the House Republican Conference, has ly worked at Federated Depart- “Despite the weather, there the increased size of its March been elected to another position of leadership, this time a seat on ment Stores and Victoria’s is no question that response to catalog circulation and the po- the board of Dillard’s Inc. Since relinquishing his Congressional Secret, will join the Chico’s team the brand is incredibly posi- tential for strong sales from it. seat in January, Watts has kept busy running his own consulting in mid-March as a senior mer- tive,” Murphy said on the call. Key items so far this spring in- company and promoting his book, “What Color is a Conservative? chant for the new concept and While the company said clude tank tops, linen shirts and My Life and My Politics.” Dillard’s chief executive William Dillard will report directly to Murphy. March and April comps are ex- Continued on page 19 2nd said in a statement: “He is a dynamic leader who has a keen un- derstanding of America’s communities and its people — including the people who shop at Dillard’s. J.C. knows our customers, and he knows what it takes to enhance and strengthen a national brand.”

● FUSCO RETURNS: After almost a three-year absence from New Halston: Rebuilding an Empire York, Neapolitan designer Antonio Fusco has reopened a showroom on West 57 Street. Fusco, who had licensed his men’s and women’s lines to the almost-defunct GFT Net, took back control of his collec- By Eric Wilson James J. Ammeen, chief execu- wear a Bradley Bayou for Halston tions in 2000 and has since refocused and consolidated his business. tive officer of Halston, most re- gown to the event. Since its initial Fusco said he hopes to enter about 60 U.S. doors over the next year, NEW YORK — With a new cre- cently headed her own consult- relaunch in 1997 under the design in department and specialty stores, and said he expects sales in the ative director at the helm of its ing firm, KL Concepts, and previ- direction of Randolph Duke, U.S. to reach $12 million during the next three to four years. The designer collection and his first ously worked for Diane Von when the Halston name was li- showroom is the latest step in rebuilding his label. His women’s line Oscar-night dress lined up, Furstenberg for 10 years, manag- censed in the better and moder- is produced in-house. Next up is a fragrance launch, with a women’s Halston LLC is embarking on a ing the relaunch of DVF’s dress ate sportswear categories, more scent expected to hit retail this fall and men’s set for 2004. renewed multitiered product line at Saks Fifth Avenue and the than 10 of those deals have been development strategy that could launch of Silk Assets by Diane eliminated. put the Halston brand back on a Von Furstenberg on QVC, ulti- “Everything is up for consid- WWDStock Market Index for March 4 ream of licensed goods — from mately becoming president of the eration now in terms of making inexpensive accessories to company’s private label division. sure we have the correct posi- Composite: 90.47 Broadline Stores: 91.27 Softline Stores: 83.39 bridge sportswear. Halston is closely examining tioning, with the right products To further that goal, the com- the positioning of the brand in all in the right venues,” Landau pany named Kathy Landau, a categories as it approaches the said. “We are going to make a brand development specialist, as introduction of a new look for its huge push on licensing and mer- vice president on Tuesday in a designer collection, since Bradley chandising, but making sure -1.91 -2.09 -1.79 newly created position to manage Bayou was named its creative di- that all the products resonate Vendors: 95.23 Textiles: 94.59 Halston’s day-to-day operations, rector in December. Queen La- with the true brand values that as well as its development of li- tifah, the actress who is nominat- will originate at the top tier.” Index base of 100 is censing and merchandising pro- ed for an Academy Award for her As reported, the Bradley keyed to closing prices grams under a centralized organ- performance in “Chicago,” was Bayou for Halston collection of Dec. 31, 2002. ization called the Halston Design quoted on “Entertainment To- will be created at the designer’s -1.09 -0.31 Group. Landau, who reports to night” this week saying she would Continued on page 11 3 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 5, 2003 —Wilson Eric — Luisa Zargani Luisa — Trussardi reiterated that the In a separate development, “We “We do have a significant For the year, net income ad- Last the year, firm added 75 In 2004, Kohl’s is planning 95 all “We’re dying to know what duction of the company’s second lines; focused strategies, and ren- ovated brand stores, counting on a $2 million cash In liquidity. the January, company signed a li- to cense help with ex- Vestimenta pand its men’s wear division. In 2002, Trussardi registered sales of $118 million, up 3 percent from the previous year, with licenses accounting for $80 million. company is now focused on the core leather goods business and on research and development of new materials. The company has experimented with machine- washable napa. It is also expand- and China, where it ing in Russia will open five stores this spring. first-year sales planned around $2.4 million. It was a prototype for a retail rollout. Other locations that have been talked about for this year include Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills and on London’s Bond Street. As reported, mall stores are also scheduled, with in plans for the Mall at Short Hills in Americana the Jersey, New and Las Vegas. Manhasset, N.Y., Anne Klein also renewed an agreement last month Luxottica Group to with manufacture and distribute its Anne Klein and New AKYork Anne Klein women’s ophthalmic frames and has sunglasses. held Luxottica the license for eyewear since 1996, covering worldwide distribution. amount of new spring content and brands that are being intro- duced and expanded throughout the store “All this spring, perhaps added. he more newness than in any time history,” our in these initiatives address our cus- tomers’ desire to continue to see newness and more updated fash- ion in our assortment.” vanced 29.8 percent to $643.4 mil- lion, or $1.87 a diluted share, from $495.7 million, or $1.45, a year ago. Sales for the 12 months grew by 21.8 percent to $9.12 bil- lion from $7.49 billion in 2001. Comps climbed 5.3 percent. new doors, totalling 457, includ- ing units in Boston, Houston, Nashville and Providence. Ap- proximately 80 stores will be added in 2003, with 35 bowing in the first quarter. This the Friday, greater Los Angeles area will see the grand opening of 28 new doors. Each new store this year will require a total investment, on average, of $550,000 to $600,000. to 100 new stores, including en- tries into the Sacramento, San markets. Diego and Fresno they’re going to do to combat copycats on the promotional strategy,” noted Augustine, who conceded that the company would likely play that hand close to its vest. J.C. Penney Co. Inc. has recently been successful with a more promotional strategy. Matteo Felli, general manager, Since the death of their father, Klein has “Anne made such a Anne Klein has several fran- The firm opened its first flag- While the top and bottom and top the While “We’re pretty proud of that,” “It’s unbelievable that they Merchandise inventories, President Kevin Mansell said, Gaia and Tomaso, will join the company any time soon, since they are both engaged with their studies. Trussardi said her moth- Maria er, Luisa, will not be re- turning silencing to the company, voices about her coming back to support her daughter. was promoted to chief executive officer, a post also held by Fran- has cesco Trussardi. “Matteo Felli been active in the definition of four our strategies,” said Trussardi. crash car a in also Nicola, years ago, Beatrice and Fran- cesco Trussardi had streamlined the company and created a man- agement base; delisted Rotondi Evolution, which controlled pro- Anne Klein New stores York in Shanghai, this year. Anne Klein is New the York firm’s bridge- priced sportswear collection. strong comeback in America and is being positioned as a global brand,” Jeffrey Fang, chief executive of GRI, said in a statement. “Anne Klein is ready to become one of Asia’s premi- um designer brands.” chised stores in Japan and retail sites in Korea, and has also made a push into the European market with a London showroom since John D. Idol became its chairman and ceo. GRI also distributes Nine and Joan &West David in Asia. ship in a New year York ago with lines continued to dazzle, proba- bly the most impressive financial statement for Kohl’s this quarter came from the selling, general and administrative expenses line. SG&A dropped 40 basis points to 16.6 percent of sales. beamed Arlene Meier, the firm’s chief operating officer and treas- on a conference call, and es- urer, pecially so, given the quarter’s lackluster comp performance. The improvement came in the distribution area, benefits from credit card operations and belt tightening at the firm’s headquar- ters, she said. While Kohl’s will continue down the same ex- pense-control path, it remains to be seen if it will be able to dupli- cate the success. got 40 basis points of SG&A leverage,” noted Bear Stearns analyst Christine K. Augustine. though, were higher than the an- alyst was expecting for the quar- ter. Inventories at the end of the quarter were 35.8 percent higher than a year ago at $1.63 billion. Kohl’s attributed this to more than twice the number of new store openings this month versus a year ago, “significant” addition- al investments in basics and more clearance inventory. “We’re very comfortable with the content of our inventory and we’re very set to do spring busi- ness going forward. Anne Klein is The retail power- The house of Trussardi A month after the death of “The company has always Beatrice Trussardi had been Kasper ASL said on Tuesday Among the initiatives included Net income for the period Street Wall was looking for Kohl’s drove sales for the 13 Children’s and women’s, es- Beatrice Trussardi Heads House Heads Trussardi Beatrice MILAN — is now in the hands of Beatrice. her brother Francesco in a car accident, Beatrice Trussardi said Monday that she would take the helm. been in the family — for almost 100 years — and it will continue to be,” she told a small number of journalists at the company’s headquarters at Palazzo Marino. “I will represent the family from now on, becoming the company’s new president, a post formerly held by my brother Francesco.” in charge of product, image and communication. She said that neither of her other siblings, East Far in Expands Klein Anne ven- NEW YORK — licensing planning an extensive new push a into with Asia ture that includes three stores in Hong Kong and Shanghai opening this fall. that its Anne Klein division signed a licensing agreement with a subsidiary of Global Retail Inc. of Hong Kong to develop the Anne Klein and New AK York Anne Klein brands in Asia, specifically in Hong Kong, China, Taiwan, Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. in the agreement, GRI is expect- ed to open a freestanding flagship in Hong for Anne Klein New York located Kong, in its Central devel- opment, and two freestanding Kohl’s Earnings Rise 19.3% Rise Earnings Kohl’s By Evan Clark NEW YORK — house that is Kohl’s Corp. con- tinued to roll on in the fourth quarter with increases in just about everything but expenses. shot up 19.3 percent to $279 mil- lion, or 81 cents a diluted share, from $233.8 million, or 68 cents, a year ago. EPS in both periods is calculated using what the firm described as the “if converted” method, which includes interest on convertible debt securities. profits per share at the Meno- monee Falls, Wisc.-based hybrid retailer to come in a penny lower, at 80 cents. Before the results were made public after the mar- ket closed, investors drove shares of the firm down $1.29, or 2.7 per- cent, to $46.26 on the New York Stock This Exchange Tuesday. was more or less in line with the Standard & Poor’s retail index, which sank 6.52 points, or 2.6 per- cent, to end the day at 246.88. weeks ended Feb. 1 up 16.9 per- cent to $3.18 billion from $2.72 billion a year ago. Comparable- store sales, though, inched up only 1.2 percent. pecially in intimate apparel and juniors, were the top-perform- ing merchandise categories for the quarter. Men’s and footwear were the toughest, though all of the firm’s major merchandise categories showed comp gains. “But what does the market if Day, For a promotion on The company, he argued, He noted that past supply- Particularly in light of last Day, who didn’t elaborate on For Kmart, that process will “Gone are the deals where Of course, Kmart was never As for specifics about its core in- to plans Kmart said Day Kmart has done away with a team’s success will depend on its execution of the details. In the past, he noted, Kmart “would just go for same-store sales,” blowing an item out the front door. basket look like?” he asked rhetorically. teacups is providing strong sales, there should be a corre- sponding focus on related items such as napkins. needs to make sure that all re- plenishment stock shipped for the store shelves gets put on the sales floor, instead of being left sitting in the “back room, [which] should be for add-on items.” chain problems were “aided and abetted by a lack of discipline.” week’s criminal indictments of two former Kmart executives in connection with a $42 million accounting fraud, the four guid- ing principles tie into “best practices” designed to ensure that certain accounting prob- recur. lems don’t what those procedures are, ob- served, “Corporate America cur- rently has to pull its socks up.” include the seating of an entire- ly new board when Kmart exits bankruptcy by April 30, “config- ured in such a way that it is composed of people able to exe- cute checks and balances” to en- sure the company’s compliance with regulatory requirements. the team operates by the seat of its pants,” Day said. He pointed out that he wants his manage- ment team to be financially lit- erate, and have a comprehen- sion of the goals that the retailer is trying to accomplish. known for the excellence of its communication skills. Jack But- Kmart’s ler, chief bankruptcy counsel from Skadden Arps, con- firmed what was already whis- pered in the markets: warehouse matters were undertaken by the logistics department without any thought to sharing of resources with the real estate department. The real estate department, in turn, negotiated its own leases without advice from in-house counsel. Those individual fief- doms, as they are often termed, are now a thing of Kmart’s past, according to its ceo. customer profile, Day said, who “Anybody walks into the front of the store is our core cus- may We tomer. want to add to that base, but now our goal is to stabilize the business.” troduce other nationally recog- nized in-store brands, much like its existing Joe Boxer Martha Stewart collections. and centralized buying structure in head- which its store managers had no of Instead say in what products were stores. sold the in quarters pushing merchandise through to the stores, store man- agers will determine what and how much to order and based on their interpretation of shoppers’ desires, a more customer-cen- tric approach. The press wanted

Day also recognized that his The ceo said that the compa- Meanwhile, Kmart’s associ- The company may still need to “For right “For now, it is very use- According to Day, According Bill to Under- Day, Kmart has been busy congrat- Day defined honesty, integrity, Julian C. Day Julian C. Day ny can be a successful promo- tional suggesting retailer, that the success found by Kohl’s is one that can be emulated. ates will strive for better same- store sales, with the focus on Part profitability. of achieving that goal is improving inventory turns and keeping basics in stock in order to maintain margins. make some decisions about its team players, but it has already decided one element of its com- pensation package. As part of its plan to lure top executives, Kmart will set aside 10 percent of the shares of its reorganized Kmart stock, or 50 million shares, to as issue an to incen- executives tive to remain at the retail chain. ment not there, to use the time the use to ful, when I there, have senior manage- not ment to get into the details,” the ceo said. Day explained that he needs to first understand the day-to-day responsibilities of a particular job before he starts recruiting for the position. wood has temporarily been ful- filling those duties. Day, howev- isn’t letting er, the lack of a cmo get in his way. ulating itself over its approaching exit from bankruptcy proceed- ings at the end of April, instead of July. However, financial sources told WWD that ESL Investments, one of the two vulture firms foot- ing the bill for Kmart’s exit, threatened to pull its financing if the discounter remains in Chap- ter 11 past May. That has raised questions in the vendor commu- nity over Kmart’s merchandising strategy, or lack thereof. The dis- counter has been spinning its re- structuring wheels without a chief merchandising officer since May 2001. discipline and leadership as the four cornerstones of Kmart’s busi- ness going forward in a media breakfast at the Inter-Continental Hotel here Reporters Tuesday. hoping to receive details of a mer- chandising plan as the fifth cor- nerstone left disappointed. NEW YORK Corp.’s — Kmart about know to post-bankruptcy merchandising, but chief executive Julian Day and other store executives had their own agenda. After Woeful Week AfterWoeful Young Vicki By Kmart Chief Spins Chief Kmart 4 Milan Collections 2003 5, MARCH , Rodeo Babes, Jetsetter Sw

WEDNESDAY Versace: Was Donatella Versace cost-cutting at the couture? If so, she sure saved a bundle. Because the Versace Versus

WWD, two-part ready-to-wear extravaganza (Versace and Versus) she staged on Tuesday was anything but a low-budget affair. As if to set the record straight in dramatic fashion, Versace rented a vast television studio on the way to Linate Airport, installed a huge elliptical runway and invited 1,000 or so people to watch her girls strut their stuff and then party hearty afterward. And oh, yes, Versace confirmed her fall campaign girl — Christina Aguilera, who will be featured in the ads for the main line, to be shot by Steven Meisel next month in New York, and possibly some other ads for the house. The petite pop princess was also featured in Donatella’s front row, sending the paparazzi pack into its typical celebrity-induced tizzy when she took her seat in all her red micro, platinum blonde glory. The platinum blondness, of course, didn’t stop there. While Donatella takes her work and her glamour very seriously, she knows that her personal style holds a certain amusement factor for mere mortals who marvel at her ability to be perpetually tressed, lip-glossed and rocked out with major diamonds. Inevitably over the years, elements of her beauty look have made it onto the runway, but never as overtly as on Tuesday night, when she delivered her “ode to me” as Amber and Karolina opened the show done up in stick-straight blonde yardage and pale, lacquered lips. They looked great, and so did most of the clothes — sexy and dramatic, you betcha, but also wearable, with a range from chic to flamboyant, always with that distinctive Versace Versace sizzle. Before her show, Versace stressed that troubled times would not clip her wings. “It’s extremely important to make people dream about something,” she said. “They want to want something.” She said she was going to offer them a rock ’n’ roll- Western-biker chick fantasy, and she pulled it off like a charm. She kept everything tight, and heavily detailed but not overdone. Round-the-clock tuxedos were inset with the kind of swirls that do up a rodeo champ’s shirt; dual-fabric pants pilfered from chaps but stayed skin- tight, audacious coats swung with miles of fringe. But some of Donatella’s best pieces were in fur, shirred, ribbed or dyed, perhaps in a massive dose of pastel lynx or the discretion of fluffy sleeves on a tough-chic jacket. Donatella believes that even the most brazen biker babe likes to soften up for big evenings — at least if she’s Oscar-bound. And if she’s not, well, honey, find another runway. But if so, why not a corset? Versace’s offered more laces than a tony Belle Epoque brothel. The point here, as there, was seduction, and Donatella delivered. At Versus, she did her part for the intergalactic-sexpot mood of the moment. Her space wanderers drew from disparate style icons; clearly, this girl idolizes both Barbarella and Joan Jett, but gets coiffed by a graduate of the Finger-in-Light-Socket School of Beauty. But she has a good time in tight, sexy, colorful clothes that would turn heads anywhere, including where some of these playful looks might feel most at home — on Mars.

Missoni: The house of Missoni has been in business for half a century, and the big 5-0 promises to be a happy affair. That’s because, with all those years and countless melange knits, the company has set the right course to the future, one likely populated by a vibrant, Versace multigenerational clientele. Certainly, no one makes the case better than Angela Missoni’s beautiful daughter, Margherita, who sat front row, as did another emerging It Girl, Anna Van Ravenstein, who watched with her mom, Pat Cleveland, and brother,

AESTRI M IDE V A D AND GIANNONI ANNI GIOV BTY 5 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 5, 2003 PHOTOS Miu Miu Miu Miu Miu Miu, that heightened state of duality chez u Miu Mi Into every adolescence, a little gender confusion must fall, Miuccia played Fifties-era propriety both ways, borrowing some the Miu Miu girl will always But no matter how fragile she is or isn’t, experience of 50 years and the sweet bloom of youth — what could be better? Miu Miu: and that goes for cool girls like Miuccia Prada’s Miu Miu muse, too. It’s like gym class, there’s just no getting around it. But instead of for running from reality, is a cause for celebration. Why not treat the girl who is a little unsure to a rosy pink leather jacket and matching bag as well as a slouchy coat and matching clunky oxfords? man’s and others from June, then layering them together. pieces from Ward Out came delicate chiffon slip dresses tied with a sliver of leather and powdery and matched tweeds, webbed knits, but also a ton of mixed power with extra sets of woolly lapels worn and full of man boxy peeking out from beneath cardigan and coat alike. be fashionable — and warm. Prada wrapped the shoulders of cardigans, leather jackets and her most butch black trench with lush oni Miss Missoni

They all settled in for a show that proved once again sexy-sturdy coat-and-mini ensemble, or go clubbing in What latter-day jet-setter wouldn’t want to run about in jet-setter wouldn’t What latter-day

Girl, Anna Van Ravenstein, who watched with her mom, Pat Ravenstein, Girl, Anna Van geometric halter mini? Whether pants in bright yellow or to have her way with those patterns without losing control. current. First, she kept shapes clean, clean, clean, the better current. First, Cleveland, and brother, Noel, after treatment getting the star Cleveland, and brother, from the paparazzi. Angela Missoni’s confidence keeping the family legacy raspberry velvet will have many takers is iffy, but on the raspberry velvet will have many takers is iffy, For evening, printed silk minis and dresses in oversized metallic For runway they looked appealing enough with Missoni’s racy printed shirts. No such issue with the lineup of lively coats and jackets, from a knitted number with big poodle-knit sleeves to jaunty furs inset fox dyed with specialty-of-the-house fabrics. And speaking of fur, stoles added an offbeat kick. scallops played smartly to a new generation of party girls. The

Missoni

weaters and a Boyish Air Boyish a and weaters S 6 Milan Collections

2003 Burberry Prorsum 5, MARCH , Kool-Aid Color, Early Ma

Burberry Moschino Moschino

WEDNESDAY Prorsum WWD,

Burberry Prorsum Moschino Cheap & Chic

Burberry Prorsum: Like a jittery kindergartner flying high In any case, Bailey’s collection earned a check-plus, rounded it all out. The girly effect was simply frilling. on Kool Aid, Christopher Bailey pumped up the fall as used to be the case in grammar school, while the While, at Moschino, the mood was a little Eighties Burberry Prorsum collection with splashes of vibrant designer’s mother and sister, who came to Milan to see ragamuffin, a little rock ’n’ roll, at Cheap & Chic, your color. An olive green jacket was paired with a kelly green one of his Burberry shows for the first time, each landed average, everyday handyman provided inspiration. leather skirt, while a punchy yellow windbreaker topped a gold star for attendance. Down a sparkling concrete runway came an industrial a sky-blue dress. The most overstimulated combinations jumpsuit in dusty rose, a khaki parka lined in petal pink left a color burn on the cornea, but Bailey played those Moschino and Moschino Cheap & Chic: Back when that and a denim minidress tricked out like overalls in a brights off of muted tones, too, showing an oversized coat pop tart Madonna was just getting her start, around 1983, cheeky homage to plumbers, farmers and carpenters in army-blanket brown over a snappy pair of kelly Moschino was already up and running. But as the house everywhere. Now, that’s a timeless look. leggings and mixing in loads of black. celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, perhaps it was In case you didn’t know, Bailey is one of those cool looking back that brought the diva’s madcap Alberta Ferretti: In Alberta Ferretti’s world, a girl just Londoners, so he promoted a look that’s sleek, optimistic “Borderline” days to mind. The show’s nostalgic never gets cold. Whether it’s the dead of winter or the and sporty, like the clothes his hometown hipsters wear soundtrack ranged from “Holiday” to “Into the Groove,” sunniest of summer days, you can always spot her as the these days. While the collection skewed young, some and so did the clothes. A dotty baby-doll dress with playful one, flirting around in a pretty, floaty chiffon looks were childish, even, printed with Dr. Seuss-like roiling ruffled underskirts followed a pretty white fur dress. And for fall, she’ll have plenty more of those illustrations of little bike riders and jockeys and cars. coat cinched with a daffy clock belt, while touches of numbers to add to her closet, done every which way, But Bailey fared better when he set his cap to freshening patent leather, big satin bows, sparkly cardigans and the girly-style. Dresses skimmed the girls mid-thigh, with traditional preppy gear, including rugby striped T-shirts, snappy Mod minis Madonna might have found at a thrift delicate little straps, bows and pleats, a ruffle here and rain slickers and boyish blazers. store during her “Desperately Seeking Susan” years there, or a bright ribbon sash slung across the hips.

ODER Y VE DA ND A NDA A MIR URICIO MA AESTRI, M VIDE DA IANONNI, G ANNI GIOV Y B 7 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 5, 2003 PHOTOS and Narciso , chairman of Calvin Klein . before the show. One bit of gossip Donatella Versace , plan to invest in Christina Aguilera and fragrance, due out March Domenico De Sole taking over the design of the Giorgio Armani Peter Darrow . Gibò is looking for clothing and . But lawyers might have to get in may have worked the Paris couture Not so fast. A spokesman for Rodriguez Versace , the former European head of TPG; ANATOMY OF A RUMOR: making the rounds in Milan this week has centered on the possibility of Rodriguez Calvin Klein collection in its new Phillips- era. Heusen controlled Van reached the designer during his Carnivale and vacation in Rio de Janeiro on Tuesday The first Viktor & Rolf fragrance, licensed to The first Viktor Alexander McQueen Christina Franco Penè A mountain of When times are tough, the tough go shopping. HMD Partners isn’t the only group looking to , the former chief executive of Bally — which is Lindsay Owen-Jones Abel Halpern Rodriguez at the Versace show at the Versace The rumor still managed to reach the ears of several top Fashion Scoops Fashion Narciso Narciso Rodriguez BLONDE ON BLONDE: the arrival of paparazzi awaited pint-sized pop vixen Aguilera next to her night. Seated Tuesday cadre of stylist and an imposing bodyguards, Aguilera gave a standing ovation at the end of “Donatella is an the show. she said. “The amazing designer,” dresses were amazing. I love her stuff and I respect her as a strong female in the business.” As soon the exited the runway, as Versace music cranked up again and the But after show segued into a party. a quick and private fish dinner backstage, the two blondes decided to carry on their fun elsewhere — or maybe not. “It’s went so everyone been a long day, spokesman. home,” said a Versace SMELLS LIKE TROUBLE: already causing But it’s isn’t slated to come out until 2005. L’Oréal, the is “furious” that a stink. According to sources, L’Oréal packaging for the new Saint Laurent Beaute division launched Gucci Group, whose Yves fragrance, named Kingdom, doesn’t seem to think McQueen’s have a very cordial relationship with any real problem. “We there’s said De Sole, who happens to be sailing buddies with L’Oréal,” chief L’Oréal the middle of this one. “They believe there is a trademark infringement,” said De Sole. “Our lawyers say there isn’t.” simply not true. “The only thing Narciso is focusing on said it’s right now is his business,” not talking the spokesman said. “He’s to anybody about anything.” retailers, who were more enthusiastic about the prospect. That’s because Rodriguez was an assistant designer to also designed his coat collection for many years, before designing But for Cerruti and Loewe and launching his own brand in 1997. his given the success of Rodriguez’ last two collections, and that collection partner is Aeffe, which owns half the business, the possibility seems remote. This seems particularly likely since Aeffe owner Massimo Ferretti came back from Rodriguez’ last show with what insiders described as a hefty stack of orders. THREE’S COMPANY: Pacific WWD has learned that three former heavyweights from Texas Group have formed a club fund, HMD Partners, to invest in medium- sized, European fashion, retail and branded consumer goods companies. Federico Minoli owned by TPG — and the lawyer companies with revenue between $100 million and $750 million. Their money will come from a pool of private European, Asian and Middle Eastern families. The fund is said to be looking to spend $25 million to $75 million for each transaction. The three are currently plotting their first deal, but could not be reached for comment. ON THE PROWL: invest in fashion. Gibò, the Florence-based clothing manufacturer and Paul & Rolf, Hussein Chalayan that helped transform Viktor Smith into commercial businesses, is also hunting for acquisitions. “For years we worked behind the scenes, building time to focus on our own,” businesses for other brands. Now it’s said Gibò chairman accessories companies with specialized production know-how. we want special, niche products made by skilled hands. And “We don’t want to be the Procter & Gamble of fashion — we want to be the Ferrari,” said Penè, who plans to draw his cash from banks and private equity funds. THE NEW YORKER: Donna Karan be planting retail roots in but that doesn’t mean she’ll last July, Montaigne — Paris anytime soon. A prime spot on tony Avenue earmarked for — had been soon to be vacated by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy Louis Karan, whose company is part of the LVMH fashion group. But sources in Paris say she might not Vuitton is shopping the space around move in after all. It turns out LVMH to competitors, instead of the other brands in its stable. One space: eyeing the designer who’s 17, features a prominent red wax seal, similar to the Dutch duo’s could not logo. The designers, preparing for their show on Saturday, be reached for comment. However, Marni Of course, the future in her mind’s eye is still a Castiglioni’s approach to the spacey Mod trend was Castiglioni has turned down the volume and her timing is just right. The collection is still spirited, but it’s not naïve, and instead of reworking — and reworking and reworking — those bitsy vintage prints she loves, Castiglioni focused on the future like never before. lovely place, but it’s also a place for grown-ups. And nothing says grown-up like fur and tweed. Castiglioni gave it all an elegant Marni tweak, binding the seams in miniskirt of a cropped gray tweed jacket or A-lined peach, cutting her fabulous fur jackets with shortened sleeves. And this time, when she did dotted dresses they tended toward Damien Hirst, not Minnie Mouse. just as sophisticated, with spliced miniskirts and minidresses in taupe, peach and plum. Likewise her leathers, in jade and muted red, worked a subdued motocross theme. Hear that sweet trill outside your window? It’s Castiglioni, and she’s changed her tune. Marni Alberta Ferretti lberta Ferretti A In seasons past, Consuelo Castiglioni’s Marni tti often played with color blocks in vegetarian- She also offered loads of great coats to toss over has been like a perky bird cheerily chirping outside Sometimes its happy racket is heaven. your window. fall, however, Sometimes it drives you a little nuts. For Marni: those little delicacies, from the lipstick patent leather raincoat that opened the show to sweet, feminine wool numbers, some with kimono sleeves. And that idea of contrasting soft with hard — the slick with the filmy — was repeated many times: red patent kilts topped by a chiffon shirt, stiff coats over lightweight dresses. For did glam her way: innocent, evening, Ferretti charming, just a bit flirtatious and always in black. But she did offer one killer item: a drop-dead, Twenties would kill for. Kelly beaded flapper dress that Velma friendly shades of eggplant, plum, cranberry and persimmon.

Ferre

adonna and Girl Talk Girl and adonna M 8 Sadie Lays Down the Law ● Kate’s Love Bite ● Tiffany’s Cat Power

2003 Mingardo, contralto, all of whom are performing with the 5, LSO in its festival series this week at Lincoln Center. The chairmen of the evening are Mr. and Mrs. Roderick Gow, Mrs. Ridgely Harrison and Gail Hilson.

MARCH ● , The National Center on Addiction and Substance Abuse (CASA) at Columbia University is holding its annual awards dinner, “A Celebration of Leadership in Combatting Substance Abuse” on April 2 in the Grand Ballroom of the

WEDNESDAY Waldorf. Jeb and Columba Bush, the Governor and First Lady of Florida, will receive CASA’s Special Achievement Award for their outstanding work fighting substance abuse WWD, in their state. CASA’s Distinguished Service Award will be

y presented to Jim Cantalupo, the chairman and ceo of McDonald’s, for the company’s long-standing support and commitment to children. Larry King and Jamie Lee Curtis will serve as masters of ceremonies. President and Mrs. George Bush and all living former presidents and former first ladies are serving as honorary chairmen. Barbara Bush, herself, is expected to attend this dinner in honor of her son and daughter-in- law. And, of course, Joseph Califano, the chairman and

z president of CASA, will be there with his wife, Hilary. ● The ladies will sport their designer stripes and Tiffany Deco-inspired diamonds at a ladies’ lunch at Tiffany’s tomorrow to benefit the Wildlife Conservation Society. Jamee Gregory, the chairman of the hot meal, will wear Valentino leopard spots and a lot of Deco diamonds. The reason for all this is to kick off the Wildlife Conservation Society’s “Tiger Time” spring gala on May 29. They, meaning Carroll Petrie, Norma Dana, Fernanda Kellogg, Karen LeFrak, Kimberly Rockefeller and Allison Stern, will all eat together in a room reminiscent of the Siberian Tiger’s Northern Asia terrain, complete with tiger prints, jungle-like bamboo and moss, while being bathed in scarlet lighting. Did you ever? The wild dessert will include Tiger Tiffany blue icing tiger stripes served on top of a signature Tiffany blue box made of gelato. And you thought breakfast at Tiffany’s was the cat’s meow. ● Francis Hayward packed her Valentinos and flew over to Palm Beach from the Bahamas to give a cocktail party and dinner at Club Colette, where the elite meet to eat. The reason for it all was to celebrate the American

Su Associates of the Royal Academy Trust — and they all JamieJamie Lee Curtis came, 120 for cocktails and 28 for dinner. In the crowd: By Aileen Mehle Betsy Kaiser in Palm Beach staying with Julia and David Koch (she now lives in Santa Barbara), John Drexel in Jude Law’s estranged wife, Sadie Frost so everyone is looking forward to seeing him. Sir Colin, in from Newport, Anna and Bill Mann, Jean Tailer, Leticia (remember when he called her his “sexy addition to his post as the principal conductor of the LSO, Gates, etc. Sadie?”) is saying she is petrified at the idea is also adored in New York as the principal guest Dinner was served at a long table laden with pink roses eye® of not being able to reconcile with her conductor of the New York Philharmonic. The recital will and a plethora of candles. Dinner was pumpkin soup, rack husband and at the thought of being a single feature such artists as Ben Heppner, tenor; Petra Lang, of lamb and harlequin soufflé, a combination of chocolate mother. Is she really that worried that Nicole Kidman, as mezzo-soprano; Alastair Miles, the bass, and Sara and Grand Marnier — but who doesn’t know that? the rumors run, has that much to do with it? Anyhow, Sadie and Jude have four children, including a four-month- old baby. Tomorrow night, Sadie goes on the BBC in AAllisonllison Stern JJuliaulia KochKoch England to say, “I come from a family where my own parents split up three times, so all I’ve ever wanted is to be normal — to be a good parent in an environment that is loving and nurturing.” If you’re in showbiz, that’s not so easy. If wishes were horses, maybe even actors could ride. Meanwhile, Kidman’s ex-husband, Tom Cruise, has been joined by Penélope Cruz in New Zealand, where he’s filming “The Last Samurai.” They are ensconced in a luxurious mansion on New Zealand’s North Island along with Tom and Nicole’s children. When not on the set, they are touring volcanoes, waterfalls and beautiful vistas. No word yet on a wedding. ● Sad but true: It’s all over between Kate Beckinsale and her lover Michael Sheen. They have been together for nine years and have a four-year-old daughter. Kate has been in Prague filming the vampire movie, “Van Helsing,” with Hugh Jackman, while Michael is in London preparing to star in the title role of “Caligula” by Albert Camus. The split is supposed to be mutual. At least, they’ve left Nicole Kidman out of it. ● Tomorrow night, the London Symphony Orchestra will celebrate the 75th birthday of Sir Colin Davis at its New York gala at the Metropolitan Club. It’s a grand tribute to Sir Colin, who has been conducting the LSO for more than 35 years. The evening will begin with a cocktail reception, followed by a recital at a seated black tie dinner, all in the presence of HRH, the Duke of Gloucester, who will be representing the LSO’s Royal patron, Her Majesty, the Queen. And don’t you forget it. Gloucester is not only accomplished but ever so affable, 9 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 5, 2003 —Burrows Dan ™ As reported last week, Cerber- Apparel sales during the Overall, for the full fiscal than 1,000 basis points to 42.1 percent of revenues. investment us, a New York-based firm, is said to be closing in on the purchase of Fila from parent Holding di Partecipazioni Indus- triali. HdP has been trying to sell Fila and its massive debt since June 2001. As of Dec. 31, total debt stood at $206.9 million, 41.9 percent lower than the $356.1 million carried as of last Sept. 30. The debt reduction came from a share capital increase of $114.9 million. Debt and capital data are converted from the euro at current exchange. quarter fell 10 percent in the U.S., 3 percent in Europe and 12 percent in the rest of the world. fared Footwear worse, with a 26 percent drop in the U.S., a 29 percent decrease in Europe and a 48 percent decline elsewhere. year, Fila lost $76.4 million, or $2.26 a diluted ADS. That com- pares with last year’s wider loss of $125.2 million, or $6. Net rev- enues for the year regressed 1.8 percent to $859.5 million. Plunging costs LEMAX www.merchandisemart.com For For the three months ended Net revenues for the period In a statement, chief execu- Expense reductions were evi- Cost-Cutting Pays Off Pays Cost-Cutting Decline Losses Fila As NEW YORK — and lower debt allowed Fila Holding SpA to substantially cut fourth quarter. its loss in the Dec. 31, the Biella, Italy-based footwear and sportswear compa- ny reported a net loss of $16.6 million, or 38 cents a diluted American depository share (ADS), just more than one-third the prior-year loss of $46.7 mil- lion, or $1.52. fell 18 percent to $180.6 million from $220.3 million a year ago. Figures have been converted from euros by the company at an average rate of exchange. tive officer Marco Isaia said the better results stemmed from “both a significant reduction in fixed costs and an improvement in gross profit, testifying to our efforts to improve every item in our statement of operations.” denced by a 320-basis-point im- provement in gross margin to 38.5 percent of revenues from 35.3 percent in the prior-year quarter. As a result, gross profit for the period expanded more Find it all in Chicago! STY The Merchandise Mart resources — all in one convenient location. or call ServicesMart Travel at 800/528-8700. visit our site Web or call 800/677-6278. March 22–25, 2003 More than 4,000 top of apparel the and nation’s accessory rantz For discounted hotel and airline rates, log on to site our Web Leading specialty stores everywhere are choosing STYLEMAX! For more information or to register for STYLEMAX, Around May 1, Judith Leiber is Laura Pome floor, moving floor, from a 8,034-square- foot space on the 21st floor. The building also houses Michael Kors, Donna Karan, Ralph Lau- ren, Bill Blass and Jill Stuart, among other designers. Laird’s lease there was about to expire. taking 9,300 square feet on the 17th floor of 600 Madison Avenue, between 57th and 58th Streets, close to other luxury firms. The company is currently located at 20 33rd West Street. Others at 600 Madison include Tiffany & Co. Susan Sokol, Fakkai. and Frederic a Judith Leiber board member, said, “the neighborhood is in sync with the Judith Leiber brand and the connotation of luxury.” THE ULTIMATE FASHION RESOURCE — FASHION CHICAGO THE ULTIMATE PBS said that commercial whose Laird, Trey man Ad Moving into Laird’s old space The principals declined to spec- ify terms of the deals. financial rents run from $52 to $60 a foot in the Plaza Hotel $30 vicinity, to $45 around Grand Terminal, $25 to $35 Central in the Gar- ment Center; $25 to $35 from Flatiron to SoHo, $20 to $30 along Tenth Avenue in the thir- ties; and $20 to $32 in Chelsea. year-old firm has Donna Karan and Gap as clients, is moving May 1 to 475 10th Avenue, a for- mer factory building. He’s taking an entire 18,500-square-foot floor with a 10-year lease. The build- ing is occupied by other firms in the creative and architectural fields, including Ian Schrager; Gwathrney Siegel & Associates, and Richard Meyer & Partners. “This is a little off the beaten track, but it’s not far from the fashion district,” Laird said. “We want didn’t anything that was too corporate. It’s an old land- marked factory building, but we’ll do a modern buildout so it will be a mix of old and new.” at 550 7th Avenue is Cynthia Steffe, a division of Leslie Fay, run by John Pomerantz, Laura’s husband. Steffe is taking a 12,000- square-foot showroom on the 10th Three high-profile

“Tenants are getting free rent “Tenants “For anyone with “For leases com- According to PBS Realty Ad- for four months to a year, con- struction dollars and a favor- able base rent,” added John Brod, also a principal at PBS. ing up, it behooves them to look at the market,” said Laura a principal in PBS, a Pomerantz, full-service a real estate compa- ny providing brokerage and other services to corporations, including retailers and manu- facturers and individuals. visors, which brokered the deals, office rents are down 10 percent since the Sept. 11 attacks and there’s about 14 million square feet of commercial space avail- able in Manhattan, from 59th Street to Street. Wall About 8 mil- lion square feet was leased last year and based on what is expect- ed to become available this year, there’s about a two-year supply of office space in the marketplace. firms, Laird & Partners, Judith Leiber and Cynthia Steffe, have signed deals to move to larger corporate headquarters, taking advantage of the soft commercial real estate market and locations that support the brand images. By David Moin David By NEW YORK — Fashion Firms on the Move the on Firms Fashion 10 In the Mainstream 2003 5, MARCH , New Venues, Raw Nerves

By Kristin Larson Exhibitors ranged from new sportswear designer Nicolas K. and new Italian WEDNESDAY NEW YORK — With new, more spacious handbag designer Stella Negro to men’s venues, Workshop N.Y. and Designers & and women’s rtw company The Great

WWD, Agents each staged three-day show runs China Wall. here last week. Meanwhile, the atmosphere across town The Paris-based Workshop N.Y. moved was upbeat and colorful at D&A, taking from its former loft-like locale at Chelsea place in a sunny loft space at 601 West 26th Markets to a brightly lit larger space at Street. The show, which premiered here in the Metropolitan Pavilion at 125 West 18th September and ended its latest edition last Street. The new space, spanning 14,000 Wednesday, featured buyer-friendly details square feet, featured all the apparel and like Internet stations, a lounge to relax, an accessories vendors spread over one floor in-house DJ and offbeat, yet fun items for a — something retailers said they wanted boutique, like designer rugs and fashion after the previous venue staged the show and art books through Distributed Art over a couple floors — traversed only by Publishers (D.A.P.). elevator, said Laurence Marc, finance di- D&A, which in addition to its home rector of the show. base in Los Angeles travels to Tokyo each year, attracted some 1,500 retailers, but like Workshop, the show’s organizers felt Retailers are sending there would have been more people if not “ for Code Orange. their local reps and “Still, the show is double the ex- hibitors from September and traffic ap- taking notes and pears to have increased,” said Ed pictures. Mandelbaum, co-founder along with — Ricardo ”Sarcos, Leonello Borghi Still, I end up going To aid in selling, Workshop sponsored “home and taking a lot of a Web site featuring a virtual trade show so retailers can still contact exhibitors paper and I sort through after the show. “The openness is still there, but at the it all and then finalize. same time it’s less artsy and more profes- ” sional,” Marc said. “Buyers also know this — Nicole Fife, Zoe place better than they know Chelsea Markets. We have also gotten positive Barbara Kramer. “We’re more about qual- feedback about having everyone on the ity than quantity and we believe we have same floor.” the cream of the crop. Our job is to make But on the selling floor, many vendors it easy for the retailers. said business was slow and speculated Judy Margolis, owner of Origins bou- that the threat of war and the Code tique in Santa Fe, N.M., said, “I always Orange terrorism alert still in effect when come to this show because I always find the show ended Feb. 24 scared buyers something unique and interesting,” as she from traveling. wrote orders for embellished Indian-in- “It’s really slow, but the selection of spired skirts from Los Angeles-designer retailers is great. Still, we have found Lotta. “We don’t carry what’s sold in de- some cool little stores in little cities and Miniskirts and all things Sixties were a hit with buyers, like this dress by Jill Stuart, at Designers partment stores but wearable art and ba- that’s hard to do at the bigger shows,” & Agents. Canadian company Dubuc was one of about 70 designers that showed at Workshop N.Y. sics — things that photograph well.” said Marie Claude Gravel, a partner at For fall, buyers were looking for eth- the Montreal-based ready-to-wear company Dubuc. “People are buying a lot of Sixties-influenced items nic-inspired looks, Sixties-influenced miniskirts, “But it’s so difficult to say. People are waiting to buy like this minidress,” said Harrison, pointing to a navy shorter jackets with retro detailing and colorful items and we might get a phone call tomorrow from Barneys blue wool mini that wholesales for $134, adding that a with texture. with an order for fall.” vintage-looking wool and cashmere cape was also a San Francisco retailer Nicole Fife said she liked Jill On a positive note, Ricardo Sarcos, coordinator for bestseller at $176 wholesale. “We think the line is clas- Stuart for its clean, mod influence and was planning to men’s and women’s handbag firm Leonello Borghi, said sic but hope it will be worn for a long time and consid- spend about $100,000 on this buying trip, including stops the quality of the retailers seemed higher and they ered vintage one day, too.” at Workshop and Fashion Coterie. weren’t so concerned about price. Takashimaya assistant buyer Christine Ghee was “Still, I end up going home and taking a lot of paper “But I still think people aren’t coming because they’re shopping Workshop and the D&A show for unusual and I sort through it all and then finalize,” said Fife, nervous about the war,” Sarcos said. “Retailers are send- things for her store. “The items [we look for] really have owner of Zoe. ing their local reps and taking notes and pictures.” to be one-of-a-kind with maybe a technical aspect or Susan Denner, sales manager for Jill Stuart, said, Yet, for new ready-to-wear designer Heather great fabric, and also something that’s not carried by “My buyers just enjoy the whole space. You get well- Harrison of the London-based Expiration Date, everyone,” Ghee said, while perusing a line of acces- looked after [at D&A]. I picked up a lot of new business Workshop was worth the travel from England, as she se- sories at Workshop. from New Jersey, Philadelphia and a lot of new ac- cured new retail accounts in Manhattan, Los Angeles, Overall, the sixth edition of Workshop attracted counts that I haven’t seen in the showroom. I also saw Texas and Japan. some 1,512 retailers and featured nearly 70 designers. clients from [South] Korea, Puerto Rico and Belgium.” IN THE MIDDLE ALMA MATER HONORS UPBIN: Pace University will honor Kellwood Co. chairman, chief executive officer and president Hal Upbin with its 40th annual Leadership in Management Award. The award is given each year to a business leader with outstanding vision, integrity and corporate leadership. Upbin, a 1961 Pace graduate, will be presented with the award at a fundraising gala April 29 at the Plaza Hotel. The money raised David Caputo, Pace University through the event will benefit president, and Hal Upbin. undergraduate scholarships, as well as the Center for Downtown and helps with the revitalization of New York, which was created by the downtown area, a university Pace in direct response to Sept. 11 spokesman said. 11 WWD,

Halston Taps Landau McEnroe Tribute Ends in Iraq Debate WEDNESDAY

NEW YORK — What was supposed to be a low-key To Revamp Licensing affair Tuesday to honor John McEnroe transpired into an inner Beltway-worthy political discussion

Continued from page 2 dising that will also be applied to in Cartier’s Fifth Avenue flagship, of all places. , former signature operations in everything from branding to li- In atypical form, the 17-time Grand Slam win- MARCH Los Angeles, where he has re- censing to point of purchase.” ner tried repeatedly to diffuse questions about the tained the services of the former Halston plans to target the fallout pro-athletes and the Laureus Sport for pattern makers and sewers of designer as well as the lower Good Foundation — the nonprofit group feting 5,

James Galanos’ custom design tiers of fashion to promote ac- him — are facing because of the Bush administra- 2003 studio. In New York, Halston is cessible products for all cus- tion’s aggressive stance against Iraq. Fellow acad- establishing a Halston Design tomers. That will include acces- emy members Boris Becker and Edwin Moses Group with a team of designers — sories, furs, leather outerwear tried to help bail him out, but to no avail. Toward in-house and through licensees — and fine jewelry for the design- the end of the unintended, extended press confer- who will contribute to other clas- er customer and fake furs, casu- ence, Becker said, “This is a celebration of our sifications of products, with an al sportswear, footwear, acces- new member, it’s not about politics.” McEnroe described the Laureus World Sports We are going to make a huge push Academy, which lists Michael Jordan, Pele and Boris Becker, John McEnroe and Edwin Moses. Nadia Comaneci among its members and pro- “on licensing and merchandising, but motes sports as a means to social change, as an at- politicians. I don’t think our job is to mix sports and tempt to create an “Academy Awards for sports.” politics,” he said. “We’re trying to use sports in a making sure that all the products But that was the extent of the festivities at Cartier, positive way. We’re trying to allow kids to be kids, a sponsor of the awards. and part of that involves being able to run outside resonate with the true brand values McEnroe’s passing remark about Nelson and kick a soccer ball or hit a tennis ball.” Mandela, a LSFG supporter, being “the most excit- With 17 projects worldwide and at least one on that will originate at the top tier. ing and beautiful person” he had ever met touched every continent, the LWSF is exploring one in off a series of war-related questions from the Afghanistan. David Butler, the group’s manager — Kathy Landau, Halston” LLC handful of reporters. said, “These guys do not deal with politics. They “The beauty of this country is that we can agree to stand above it. But they can use their status in emphasis on home, bridge sports- sories, handbags, intimate ap- disagree. But when push comes to shove, we’re sports. Sports can speak louder than any politics be- wear and accessories. It’s part of parel and foundations in lower Americans,” McEnroe said. “Certainly as Americans, cause sport is a universal language.” an effort to create a new concept tiers, “all going back to Brad- the hope is we’re all in this together — whether we McEnroe was more forthcoming about his views of creative collaboration, Landau ley’s belief that all women can support it or we don’t support it. I do feel we should after the event, downplaying a question about any said. For instance, the home col- be beautiful,” Landau said. be sticking together in these uncertain times.” concern about traveling to Wimbledon, with “Are lection will include joint designs “It’s much more about a As for choosing not to participate in national you worried about going to the Garden? To me, that’s with visiting sculptors or a the- world of Halston than Halston competitions such as the Davis Cup, McEnroe said, what it feels like going to Wimbledon.” atrical set designer. as a fashion design company,” “not playing sports because you disagree with poli- Unfazed by all the politico talk, Stanislas de “Bradley really represents the she said. tics is hollow, but they just say they hurt their knee Quercize, president and chief executive of Cartier, fusion of those different arenas,” Halston has five remaining li- — we don’t even get that far.” said afterward, “If times are tough, there’s a call to she said. “He is a fine artist by censes from the initial relaunch, Regarding another recent sports headline — raise more money and do more [for the foundation.]” training, but has also worked in including eyewear, a limited Manhattanville College basketball player Toni He also said he has not seen any changes in store entertainment and in fashion. home collection, intimates, Smith’s decision to turn her back on the flag during traffic related to France’s antiwar stance. “We have He’s the centerpiece of that con- dresses and an international the national anthem — he said, “There are better the three flags flying,” referring to the American, cept, which is a more integrated business in Mexico, which will ways to express yourself.” French and British flags flapping outside the store. approach to design and merchan- remain a priority. “We’re professional athletes, not professional — Rosemary Feitelberg

Your supply chain shouldn’t shackle you.

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Gap.com’s casting call empowered boys, girls, teens and young adults to nominate themselves — and vote for their peers — to model in an upcoming Gap ad. Six will be chosen this week from 200,000 entries. Varsity Television, now reaching roughly two million homes, went live last September with teen-created TV that complements the four-year-old, teen-produced Web site at Myvtv.com. In a grassroots play, Coca-Cola is narrowly distributing Coke in a Club Can — only in places where teens convene. Millennials Crave Authenticity

Continued from page one sisted ads, Smith said, Millennials like them — but only if for the cereal’s relaunch in Canada, and Icehouse beer, relevance to their lifestyles — sought by today’s they ring true; a hard sell is a turnoff. This marks a shift which held a marketing contest in which it told con- teens and young adults. from the mind-set of the last group who enjoyed ads, and sumers: “You make the billboards, we’ll make the beer.” Fashion brands, in particular, have struggled to convey wanted to be featured in them, as they were growing up: Others have turned to grassroots marketing: Coca-Cola a sense of authenticity to today’s teens and young adults, the Baby Boomers (aka The Pepsi Generation). is narrowly distributing Coke in Club Cans, only in whose fancies — and funds — are being more readily cap- At work, Smith noted, is the manner in which the places where teens hang out, while Tommy Hilfiger and tured by cars, travel, electronics, entertainment and eating youngest cohort receives news from mainstream media, as Calvin Klein are taking it to the beach, aiming at college out. Designer brands from Calvin Klein to Gucci to Prada distinct from the way Xers and Boomers did at the same students during spring break. are pouring millions of dollars into ad campaigns aimed age. Characterizing Millennials as the Monica Lewinsky Implicit in such an interactive approach is a respect squarely at the Millennials, yet most of youth culture re- generation, he said, “The more they find out [via tradition- for the intelligence of young consumers — and a willing- mains unmoved by such efforts, observers pointed out. al news media], the less they want to know. Baby Boomers ness to experience and learn from their culture first- “It used to be good enough for a designer like Ralph were the Watergate generation. They thought the more you hand — a regard that is missing in much of today’s mar- Lauren to do an ad campaign with a particular image, and find out, the more you know about what’s going on. Gen-X keting targeting the group. That disconnect is something young people simply aspired to be like that,” observed was the Iran Contra generation. They thought the more Millennials find alienating, or even offensive, about Marshal Cohen, co-president of Port Washington-based you find out, the less you [truly] know.” many such campaigns, observers said. market researcher NPDFashionworld. “Today, it’s more “Today’s high school kids feel as though they’re part about being associated with a larger cause. Kenneth Cole of a very smart, active, engaged, competitive, stressed- has done this better than anyone in the past 20 years. The 10 THINGS MILLENNIALS out group of people,” related generation expert William brand rates high with teens consistently.” Strauss. “So, when you [try to] appeal to them, like many In fact, according to NPDFashionworld, Kenneth DON’T REMEMBER advertisers do — by showing people in their 20s as stu- Cole leads a list of brands perceived by teens as “presti- pid, or sitting around angsting about failed relation- gious,” followed by Donna Karan, Victoria’s Secret, Ann 1. A 45 record — and a flip side. ships — it just doesn’t speak to them.” Taylor, Liz Claiborne, Banana Republic, Jones New For brands not yet ready to take the leap to teenage York and Ralph Lauren. 2. “Adventures of Huckleberry Finn” — it’s always brand managers, or teens selecting their peers to model A more genuine appeal would enable fashion brands been a banned book. in ads, there are smaller steps they can take to better to sell more apparel to the generation, ages 8 to 25, now 3. Grace Kelly, Elvis Presley, Karen Carpenter — address Millennial culture. They include spending time 71 million strong. Teens spent approximately $170 bil- viewing Web sites, movies, television and videos created lion on products and services in 2002, found Teenage they’ve always been dead. by teens and young adults, and attending theater pro- Research Unlimited, while college students, ages 18 to 4. Not being able to afford designer brands. ductions, movies and concerts they produce. Fashion 30, spent about $155 billion last year — about $39 billion marketers may be surprised to find elaborate costumes, of it discretionary, according to Harris Interactive re- 5. Dressing up for a plane flight. complicated choreography and sophisticated acting search conducted for 360 Youth, the marketing arm of well beyond anything they themselves created as teens Alloy Inc. 6. Red China. or young adults. Much of it has stemmed from skills ac- The stakes will continue to climb through 2010, the 7. Renting phones from AT&T rather than buying quired in an array of after-school activities, from dance period in which more people are projected to enter the instruction to video production classes. cohort than leave it. “There are currently more eight- them. Phones that ring. “Thirties production values appeal to today’s kids — a year olds than 15-year olds, so the prospects are bright 8. Banking before ATMs. return to bigness — as does anything on the breaking edge for youth marketers,” said Matt Diamond, chief execu- of technology, used in a way kids find spectacular,” said tive officer of Alloy Inc., a direct merchant and mar- 9. Using a bottle of White Out. Strauss, a founder of the Capitol Steps satiric troupe, who, keter targeting Millennials. in 1999, created theater awards called Cappies, now given With those population gains projected, fashion mar- 10. Coors Beer being unavailable east of the in 58 high schools around the country. keters’ still can effectively appeal to Millennials. The Mississippi River. That larger-than-life atmosphere, colored by a strong remedy to their current predicament, as prescribed by sense of fantasy (think “Lord of the Rings,” PlayStation SOURCE: “MILLENNIALS GO TO COLLEGE,” BY NEIL HOWE AND WILLIAM STRAUSS marketing executives and generation experts, is straight- (LIFECOURSE ASSOCIATES). and cyberculture), has wrought a double-edged sword forward: Fashion players must better grasp the for marketers. Most teens are seeking to be entertained Millennials’ values and aspirations — and start stirring Not surprisingly, Millennials’ antipathy toward judg- nonstop; they’re living in a constant state of noise. And more word-of-mouth via grassroots marketing — if they ing others — a sensibility informed by their optimism the resulting absence of quiet in which to relax and re- expect to spur the group to spend more on their products. and idealism — also is reflected in the marketing voice flect gives them far less opportunity than their prede- Mistakes currently being made by marketers target- they prefer: unpretentious and authentic. This poses a cessors had to consider their choices — including things ing Millennials are many. For one thing, Millennials are paradoxical challenge, as marketing, by definition, is they buy — and the impact of those decisions, genera- often portrayed in advertising as dumb or naïve, and about selling something. The solution, marketing ob- tion experts pointed out. “So many of today’s teens say typically they are neither. They also get along better servers advised, is simply to be up front about it. they can’t concentrate or study unless there’s some with their parents than prior groups and shop with Failure to do so is perhaps the biggest mistake one noise in the background,” said Robert Wendover, direc- them, yet seldom are both groups addressed in the same could make in appealing to the 25-and-under set. tor of the Center For Generation Studies in Aurora, marketing campaign. They are America’s most ethnical- Youth-savvy alternatives lie in both the approach to Colo. “Very bright kids walk away from the crowd be- ly and racially diverse generation ever, but multicultur- marketing campaigns aimed at Millennials and their ac- cause they want to think. It’s hard for them to find some- al campaigns targeting the group are rare. And running tual content, observers counseled. “You can’t market to one to talk with.” counter to sexuality’s growing presence in marketing teens without acknowledging it is an effort to sell some- It’s a sharp departure from the teenage years of the and the media, most Millennials say they’d like to see thing,” Smith said. “The solution is to collaborate with Boomers, who often are the ones developing the mar- less of it — a gripe they don’t have with violent imagery, teens, rather than trying to outthink them,” he advised, in keting campaigns aimed at today’s teens. The gap is hu- however. In fact, generation experts said the past few reference to the development of marketing campaigns. “A morously portrayed in Gary Ross’ 1998 movie years have seen steep declines in teen pregnancies and participatory experience feels more authentic.” “Pleasantville,” when a Nineties teen played by Tobey sexually transmitted diseases. Some brands have already tried this: Gap, which re- Maguire — transported back to the Fifties — flips on the “Millennials like to participate in consumer market- cently asked users of its Web site to volunteer to model TV before school and is puzzled when his mother, ing culture, but they also take it with a grain of salt and for an upcoming ad campaign (digital photos were sub- played by Joan Allen, says, “You’re watching TV now? push back against it,” observed J. Walker Smith, presi- mitted for an online vote); Pop Tarts, which asked It’s 8:00 a.m.” dent of Chapel Hill, N.C.-based market researcher youths to invent new versions of the food; Apple Jacks, Less quiet time also has limited teens’ use of imagi- Yankelovich Inc. Unlike Generation Xers, who have re- which enabled teens to become the brand’s managers nation and sense of freedom, said historian Neil Howe, 13 WWD, WEDNESDAY Millennials’ Fashion Pulse: Fourth Quarter 2002 Where Teens Get Their Money CONSUMPTION CATEGORY FEMALES AGES 16-24 FEMALES AGES 16-70 , Average spent on apparel in past month $100.50 $80.75 SOURCE SHARE OF TEENS MARCH Average time of apparel shopping trip 110.96 minutes 99.13 minutes 1. Their parents, as needed 55.6 percent

Apparel shopping trips per month 2.99 2.05 5, 2. Gifts 44.4 percent When latest styles are purchased start of season: 37 percent 28 percent 2003 sale at end of season: 52 percent 61 percent 3. Odd jobs 34.0 percent Where most apparel is bought specialty stores: 35 percent chain stores: 25 percent 4. Part-time jobs 31.3 percent chain stores: 21 percent department stores: 21 percent 5. Regular allowance 26.7 percent department stores: 17 percent mass merchants: 19 percent

SOURCE: COTTON INC. LIFESTYLE MONITOR SOURCE: TEEN RESEARCH UNLIMITED, 2001 who, with Strauss, has written numerous books about technology. It’s a generation that hasn’t known trouble None drew more than 1 percent from the 18-to-24 set. generations. That, in turn, has led to burnout among a until recently,” Huff said, noting that experience has While most college students, ages 18 to 30, told growing portion of high schoolers. Marketers ought to raised the group’s aspirational profile. As a result, she Harris Interactive they “don’t pay a lot of attention to realize, Howe added, that “a major aspiration for this added, “they are somewhat like the Boomers, as they ads.” Most female students said they paid “at least some group is to have a more balanced life — time for travel, have higher social goals, yet still like to indulge.” attention” to the following: TV commercials, 90 percent; family and community, and days for doing nothing. They To date, fashion has been a small ingredient in the outdoor media, 83 percent; magazine ads, 82 percent; see how stressed out their parents are and they don’t culture cooked up by Millennials. The fashion business radio spots, 75 percent; newspaper ads, 75 percent; ads want to end up that way.” could add some spice, though, if it could convey the preceding movies in theaters, 78 percent; school news- A related issue, Howe noted, is vulgarity, both spiritu- sense of energy and individualism that typifies today’s paper ads, 58 percent, and online ads, 48 percent. al and material. “Vulgarity is an issue for the teens and young adults, marketing consultants contend- Nearly all collegians said that, at least some of the time, Millennials. They know it’s out there in our culture, and ed. “Young women are getting more expressive of their they want ads to feature humor (98 percent) and every- turning it into a theme for a TV show is a running gag for personal identity,” said Marc Gobe, president and chief day people (92 percent), and ads that appeal to both them. That’s why ‘The Osbournes’ is a Millennial phe- executive officer of brand image consultant Desgrippes themselves and their parents (81 percent). nomenon,” Howe said of the MTV series. “The show’s Gobe. “With the formulaic nature of most big-chain Like collegians, high school students would respond portrayal of kids that were natural-looking and a little to ads intended to appeal to both themselves and their overweight was also something they could relate to.” Millennials like to participate in parents, but those teens depart from the young adults Others making strong connections with Millennials, in their preference for word-of-mouth over traditional observers said, include pop songstress Avril Lavigne, “consumer marketing culture, but media. Online advertising and grassroots promotions — whose music and style suggest an every-woman sensibil- from hiring trendsetters to wear items for $8 an hour to ity; movie stars like Vin Diesel and Angelina Jolie, who they also take it with a grain of sponsoring extreme sports events — also resonate with reflect a realism also seen in rock music’s renaissance, them. “Word-of-mouth buzz is essential to reach teens; and fledgling cable network Varsity Television, which salt and push back against it. it’s very strong, especially with their use of cell phones went live last September, claiming the turf somewhere and Palm Pilots,” said Center For Generational between Nickelodeon and MTV, along with its four-year- — J. Walker Smith, Yankelovich” Inc. Studies’ Wendover. “That can be backed up by tradi- old companion Web site at Myvtv.com. tional media.” From this cultural crucible are emerging teens who brands, there is some loss of individuality,” he contin- As of now, few fashion firms are capitalizing on such are generally optimistic, energetic, civic-minded, put off ued, citing American Eagle and Abercrombie & Fitch as opportunities. Those that teens perceive as “hot and by excessive behavior and planning for the long term. examples. “They brought a point of view to this group in,” NPD found, are the usual suspects: Abercrombie & For example, many high schoolers are carrying day five or six years ago, but they are not necessarily speak- Fitch, followed by Victoria’s Secret, American Eagle, planners — a far cry from the live-for-today spirit of ing to a whole new group [of teens] now. This group has Gap, Old Navy and Aeropostale. their parents’ youth — and they are thinking about col- decided to make their mark and expect brands to re- To be fair, marketing based on a generation’s life lege as early as ninth grade. According to a Harris Poll, flect their belief. Stores that have faster fashion and fre- stage, rather than age groups, only began to take hold 993,000 high school students took the PSAT in 2001, up quent product introductions are more appealing: Zara, around 1993. That’s when Advertising Age coined the 72 percent from the 577,000 who took the preparatory H&M, Forever 21, Urban Outfitters.” term Generation Y — a label now disliked by 56 percent test for the college entry examinations in 1993, and 50 Millennials spent approximately $46 billion on ap- of today’s teens; three years after Doug Coupland’s million day planners were distributed to high school parel between January and November 2002, or 21 per- novel, “Generation X,” was published, and shortly after and college students in 2000, a steep ascent from the cent more than the $38 billion spent on it by the larger the media made much ado about the election of the million given out to their counterparts back in 1990. Boomer cohort, based on NPDFashionworld data. But country’s first Baby Boomer president and vice presi- Millennials also are more willing than their Gen-X observers said the difference mostly reflects the group’s dent, Bill Clinton and Al Gore. But in the 10 years that predecessors to give other individuals the benefit of the practical needs and size — not apparel marketers maxi- have followed, fashion marketers have made few strides doubt. Indeed, one of the worst gaffes marketers can mizing their appeal to the group. For example, just 11 to catch up with the sensibility and spending of the make in an appeal to Millennials, particularly those percent of females ages 13 to 17, and 9 percent of those Millennials (née Gen-Y). now in their 20s, is to appear judgmental, said Lois 18 to 24 said they bought apparel last year because of Clearly, fashion brands are still searching for the foun- Huff, a senior vice president at Columbus, Ohio-based advertising, The Zandl Group found. When asked which tain of youth marketing. “There is an essential bland- management consultant Retail Forward. “When apparel brands they bought because of ads, Old Navy ness; a high-gloss, happy image that teens relate to,” Millennials were growing up, the economy was fantas- was the only name to elicit a response of more than 1 Strauss advised. “An outreach to a star mom and dad tic, there was a burst of materialism and an explosion of percent: It pulled 2 percent among 13- to 17-year-olds. would be OK with most Millennials — not edginess.” Tommy Hilfiger Heads for the Beach By Kristin Larson lucky enough to have gone to South Tommy is not the only designer to Padre Island are the ones with the tan stake a claim on spring break. As report- NEW YORK — Tommy Hilfiger is going and the ones who were there, and they’ll ed, Calvin Klein is also hitting the beach on spring break, too. want to talk about all the cool things that starting next Monday with music, beach Starting next Monday, the designer, happened when they were away.” and nightclub activities through March who has a big high school and college That might just mean modeling in a 29 in Panama City Beach under the CK following, will hit the three hot spring Tommy Jeans fashion show, as there will brand umbrella. break destinations, staging model be male and female model searches dur- To promote the Tommy event, there searches, fashion shows and music pro- ing the first day of each stop at all three will be radio announcements on local vided by rap group The Clipse. locales, with the actual show taking stations featuring The Clipse, who Promoting its jeans and swimwear place the second day — right on the worked with Justin Timberlake on his business, the company will take its beach. As Arista recording artists The new album for his debut single “Like I “Tommy Jeans Presents Spring Break” Clipse perform live at each of the Love You,” as well as signs posted all bus to South Padre Island, Tex., next events, the lucky 30 or 40 chosen young over the beach and young people riding Monday and Tuesday; Panama City, Fla., people will strut down the runway wear- around in Jeeps spreading the word. March 13 and 14, and Key West, Fla., ing “denim, sexy sundresses, short “Basically, we’re taking over the March 17 and 18. shorts, tank tops, swimsuits and stuff beach,” Connolly said. “They estimate that Tommy Hilfiger kicks off spring break Monday. “This is where the kids are and spring that kids are wearing,” said Connolly. 500,000 kids go to South Padre for spring break is important to students, so this is a About 10 professional models will also break and to Panama City, and Key West is year’s spring break, the company staged good way to reach a lot of them all at be used at each of the shows. supposed to be the new upcoming area. a less-formalized model search and fash- once, very efficiently,” said Peter While there’s no guarantee for a So the turnout I’m not worried about. ion show in Miami’s South Beach that at- Connolly, president of marketing at Tommy modeling contract, Connolly We’re worried about getting swamped and tracted some 10,000 youth, Connolly said. Tommy Hilfiger USA. “You’re reaching a noted: “We’re always looking for new controlling it. It’s going to be mobbed.” “We didn’t really promote it, so we far greater audience than just spring models for the campaigns, so somebody Spring break is not a new territory for wanted to do something much bigger and break. When they go back to school, those could get lucky out of this.” the youth-friendly Tommy Hilfiger. At last really go after spring break,” he said. 14 WWD West 2003 5, Two looks from Lucky’s MARCH , Hot Topic Turns In Solid 4th Limited Edition. NEW YORK — Hot Topic Inc. increased the quarter.” fourth-quarter earnings the old-fashioned The release came after the markets way — by growing sales and comps. closed, but Hot Topic shares followed the WEDNESDAY For the three months ended Feb. 1, the major indices down, losing 68 cents, or 3.1 City of Industry, Calif.-based specialty percent, to close at $21.23 in Nasdaq trad-

WWD, chain said net income ascended by nearly ing Tuesday. a third, or 32.8 percent, to $16.6 million, In a research note to investors, Wells or 51 cents a diluted share. That com- Fargo Securities analyst Jennifer Black pares with profits of $12.5 million, or 38 wrote: “We do not see Hot Topic’s momen- cents, in the prior-year quarter. Earnings tum slowing any time soon. The company per share overran continues to cater to the Wall Street fore- a very distinct niche

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a commensurate 35.9 first quarter.” L percent increase in Overall, for the full net sales to $148.3 fiscal year, Hot Topic million from $109.1 Hot Topic comps rose 9.7 percent. reported a 21 percent million. Quarterly increase in net in- comparable-store sales rose 9.7 percent come to $34.6 million, or $1.05 a diluted Lucky’s Limited Strike and February comps climbed 4 percent. share. By comparison, last year the compa- “This is the fourth consecutive year of ny had profits of $28.6 million, or 86 cents. By Nola Sarkisian-Miller “We wanted to do something that we increased fourth-quarter comps,” said Net sales for the year swelled 31.9 per- couldn’t do in the original Lucky line be- chief executive officer Betsy McLaughlin cent to $443.2 million from $336.1 million LOS ANGELES — Lucky Brand Dung- cause of prohibitive costs,” added Lucky on a conference call with analysts. “All ge- a year ago, with comps up 5 percent, arees is thinking like an artist. denim design director Mike Hodis. ographic areas comped up, with the marking the company’s seventh consecu- The Vernon, Calif.-based denim- The venture, though, isn’t one that Southwest performing the best. Apparel tive year of full-year comp-store increases. driven label has quietly rolled out its will shake up sales charts. Overall, Lucky sales represented 48 percent of our busi- In guidance, Hot Topic said it expects new Limited Edition collection, high- revenues are estimated to be about $150 ness this quarter as opposed to 53 percent full-year earnings of about $42 million, or end garments, each numbered inside. million to $200 million, but Munoz ex- last year. We had great results in acces- $1.26, on sales of about $545 million. Full- And in classic marketing strategy, it’s pects Limited Edition to barely ring up a sories, women’s and rock music-based year comps are forecast to grow in the already creating buzz with its scarcity. few million dollars. “This isn’t geared to merchandise. The men’s business comped mid-single digits. The 12-piece collection for women move anybody’s needle,” he noted. down approximately 22 percent during — Dan Burrows and men pushes Lucky’s fashion enve- The cool factor is at play here, with lope with better, imported fabrics like the line selling in an under-the-radar pure indigo and black ring-spun manner. Fred Segal in Santa Monica denim, weathered finishes and edgier and E Street Denim in Highland Park, styling. For fall, there is a military-Girl Ill., are among the hot shops carrying Scout hybrid miniskirt cut from a shirt the numbered styles, as are only 10 of Aris Signs Kosiuko Deal and embellished with Vietnam era- Lucky’s 70 signature stores, including style patches including dice, and a locations at the Third Street LOS ANGELES — Aris Industries has presence and expand into department patch-covered tattered vest with a Promenade in Santa Monica, Calif., added another label to its stable of licenses. stores with the help of an estimated peace sign revealed under exposed and New York’s SoHo district. The New York-based company, maker $300,000 advertising campaign over the yarn. Heavily garnished denim is also Retailers report the line’s quality res- of XOXO and owner of the Baby Phat li- next six months. Aris also will move core to the line, including low-rise onates with fashion-forward customers. cense, has acquired the long-term license Kosiuko from its Miami headquarters to a jeans with exposed selvage on pocket “It’s a great classic product with lots to manufacture and distribute contempo- 5,000-square-foot showroom in New York hems and a resin-baked finish. of originality, good finishes and it’s rary sportswear label Kosiuko in the U.S., next month to be closer to its own offices. Lucky executives consider the line, saleable in a world where things may Canada and Japan. Aris chief executive Begun 10 years ago by Federico Bonomi which began shipping Jan. 30 to less be spectacular, but are really flash-in- Arnold Simon said he’s projecting $10 and his wife, Cynthia, who is a designer, than two-dozen doors, as a roots-in- the-pan,” said Thomas George, who million in first-year sales for the Buenos Kosiuko offers clothing for men and women spired collection. purchased about 60 to 80 units for his E Aires-based line. and has penetrated the South American “We wanted to speak to the customer Street Denim store. “It [has] great detailing — it’s like af- market through roughly 300 specialty re- at a different level and thought the tim- Retail experts say it’s another push fordable Cavalli,” Simon said. tailers and about 100 of its own stores. ing was right with the sneaker industry for differentiating the almighty brand, In the U.S. for about a year, Kosiuko Aris initially plans to ship women’s reissuing special-edition runs of their and adding cachet to the rest of the line. has had a test run in about 100 stores, in- products by July for fall deliveries and own,” said Liz Munoz, Lucky’s senior “There’s a hunger for unique cluding Girlfriends in Newport Beach, roll out other categories later, according vice president of merchandising. items,” said Carrie Williams, owner of Calif. It retails from $65 to $130. With its to Simon. Washes that can cost four times the Seattle-based Brand Lab, a strategic low-rise styling, it’s already developed a He said the label is a good complement regular applications help ramp up the brand agency, specializing in apparel following with va-va-voom singers Shakira to his existing products. sales tab. The line retails for $120 to accounts, “and even though the aver- and Britney Spears. “Contemporary expensive doesn’t com- $220, about double typical Lucky age Lucky customer might not be able Simon hopes to double Kosiuko’s U.S. pete with what I have,” Simon said. prices, and is manufactured in limited to afford the item, it enhances the per- runs of about 150 pieces per style. ception of the company.”

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benefits pack- Executive excellent Wholesale Account 818-876-3285 or email [email protected] Must haveence luxury & goods aMust wholesale experi- background. beare an willing innovative company toing offer- an travel. We Please fax resumes to: Must use reference code: WWDWC An international luxurymunications company com- hasexciting an you opportunity canWe where make are aprofessional West Coast, currently difference! seeking a age & much more! [email protected] www.skagen.com or Lake Tahoe Account Executive SKAGEN DESIGNS Ltd. SALES MANAGEMENT 775-850-5533 you provide We provide Send resume to: fax 201-222-7883 (213) 746-6993 the leads and support, Sales Pro! Looking for [email protected] or stores or yoga/fitness studios. Hot Jr Contemporary established contacts at specialty SALESPERSON Must haveworking excellent with sales majorsales department reps and store andresume retail buyers to: merchandisers. , management PleaseYou may visit our website at regional either experience account fax or e-mail your BigHeart, acompany with a Yoga patented, cutting- edge yoga accessories mat carrier,forsalespeople in is LA looking toon capitalize press hitsFitness, etc. in Vogue, Shape, We are expandingcorporate our office sales indriven force Reno, professional who Nevada. to hasing We add a major will proven retail a programs track betion may involve up to 50% travel. in position record territories hiring of in or manag- a nationally. our The sales posi- Established hotmfr jr contemporary salesperson in with strongwith contacts L.A. major+ comm. Please fax resume to: chain seeks stores. Salary in-house

TOP DOLLAR [email protected] OR CLOSEOUTS WALT ADAMS INC T: 800-996-4469 F: 800-540-2784 FOR RETURNS,IR’S fax to (562) 921-6384. atalented [email protected] or Fashion Textile Designer Fashion Textile GUIDE FOR LOS ANGELES T: (310) 379-7533 or 310-559-4519 [email protected] Samsung Caravel, leadinging fashion for an textile in-house companyThis designer/artist is for position its look- will Losusing Angeles be Studio. hand-painting responsibleshould skills for have creating at ordesign least new CAD. experience, 7 designs highly to creativeof 10 skills, years Qualified trends good of interpretation print candidate fashion and methods textile colors, and novelty environment. enjoy excellent working Competitive compensation in knowledge and please send resume to: fits. Interested caliber should excellent a bene- about fast-paced teamwork fabrics, FREELANCE BUYER Design Assistant Does your retail outlet need fresh, new merchandise but can’t afford the expensive buying trips to Los Angeles? Hire us as your Freelance Buyer. Strong merchandising skills and tough negotiator. Couture EveningL.A. is House seeking in Experience with embroideries and sketching skillsPlease a must. Faxwith salary history to: resume along and experiencedwith individual high levelawareness of of current taste trends. and IGNER Email resume to: SENIOR DES TREND MERCHANDISER/ PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT [email protected] employer committed to workplace diversity. re: Senior Designer. For more info please visit our Send resume immediately to: [email protected] website at www.londonfog.com/lfi. We are AA/EEO Established hot fashionseeks cosmetic/handbags creative mfr toedge develop in product trend,and lines. merchandising. Knowl- concept, Full design,area. time samplemaking only, Los Angeles London Fog Industries iser the and leading designer, distributorWe market- of proudly quality representDot, outerwear London Dockers, and Fog, Moonstone rainwear. and Pacificlated Roffe products Trail, outerwear to Black and meetcal dress, re- casual, outerwear social needs. andnior techni- We Designer to are driveof currently the our seeking creative direction acommitment children’s and to Se- line. vision excellence and Aence desire are to passion critical make tosit a for on success differ- children’s Lake in Union thisviews style, in of position. downtown the Our Seattle, lake,diverse offices offering sailboats city, stellar and with seaplanes.great the Seattle outdoors. benefits is Our of a requirementsdegree big include in city a Apparel living Bachelor’s Design,knowledge and min. of the 5 pattern yearstion. making designer Prefer exp., andouterwear. garment prior We construc- offer experiencecreative and dynamic work environment. excellent salary designing and benefits a in children’s a 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 5, 2003 Largest SupplierofIN-STOCKWoven Made toorderonallknits+corduroy CLOSE CLOSE SUPPLEX*SUPPLEX Peter [email protected] Terry -FrenchDazzleMesh We buymen’s,women’s&children’s Venture Textiles1-800-4-SUPPLEX Domestic/Export www.fabrics.com apparel. Largequantitieswanted. Supplex Fabrics.Prints&Solids. Drake Fabrics.718-389-8902 OUTS U.S.OREXPORTS TYE DYE Elliot Weinstein # 947-4894 Elliot Weinstein Steven Lambert212-944-6094 Show -ShipManufacture 14-59 St/Mad-9Ave.;1500-10000SqFt&up UNUSUAL SHOWROOM 212-629-8694 M-F10am-6pm.NoFee. BWAY 7THAVESIDESTREETS W 38thSt13,000FtDIV.$18Deal Paul, Mike,Larr GARMENT CENTERREALESTATE Prime ManhattanScott212-268-8043 Office/Showrm-Great Deals! BERNSTEIN R.E.-largest#NYClistings 1 BRSHOWROOMstartingat$1625. Allan Gallawa Search- www.manhattanoffices.com +6000 SFMoreCanBeMade Avail HELMSLEY-SPEAR, INC Hi Ceils.WdFlrs.ImmedOccup. Under MarketSublets-NOFEE! Showrooms &Lofts Great ’New’OfficeSpaceAvail For ALLoffice&loftSPACES 1407 BROADWAY ADAMS &CO.212-679-5500 1359 BWAY 488 7thAvenue SHOWROOMS/OFFICES and/or OFFICE PRIVATE BATHROOMS 700-5000’ NewPreBuilts 212-947-5500 Live/Work 500-20,000 SQ.FT TREBOR MGMT 1600 SF y 212-594-1414x251 y , Don,Jerr y orElliot

rpsil ethl space. half rent possibly or onrofc osae20 f-Comput- - sf 2000 er ready.Renthalformoreofspace. share to office Corner showrooms w appointed beautifully Two sq. ft.Pleasecall: fice inverybusycontemporary/young Call EvanLieberman212-819-9090x19 SHOWROOM 214W.39thSt. 1350 Broadway.3spacesavailable! designer showroom.Avail.Immediately! Owner 212-695-0005 or718-387-0500 Sublet-Furnished spacew/privateof- t aksae u-es,nwlease, new Sub-lease, space. back ith Beautiful installationforshowroom BROADWAY 37th-38thSts 212-840-4480 212-840-4481 212-840-4480 office &showroomunits 1200-8795sf tower has severalattractive FASHION CENTERbldg Call/Fax GerardJ.Falcone Special reduceto$17.95per sqft 639,1368and2554squarefeet. 525 7thAvenue 8th Ave,#55524/7 Contact Jim213-346-8270x17 and office.Submitalloffers. Millennium RealtyGroup 4258 sqftwith12windows 3108 sqftwith11windows 1384 BWAY Please call(212)575-8858 t ...MarketRentals he DISTINCTIVE ...NBIAvailable 1400 Broadway 212-869-0888 oa 3,750 Total flr h oiia eulc a open ladies of week Has per dz. 2,000 Republic. in of years capacity Dominican 17 over the and experience years Ed Kret,Textiles/Apparel212-213-6384 Nancy Bottali,Accessory212-213-6386 Ileen Raskin212-213-6381 rcwtros opr,Kohl’s Coopers, Pricewaterhouse eiiepiigadfnneavailable. Com- finance quality; Please contactBobbyat: and Fine pricing trim; petitive & jackets. make & pants Cut, skirts, in Specializing and Com- robes available. puterized grading,markers&cutting. packages Full sleepwear, blouses. children’s and A E-mail China. in zhang for moreinfo: Mfr. approved Jones ls ulcts atrs ulservice Full shop tothetrade.Finefastwork. patterns. duplicates, ples, Sam- productions. small in Specializing Fast cost. Low w quality. High Reliable. Vol Production/CompetitivePricing Currently, manufacturinghighquality for quickturnaroundUSAproduction. Automatic Trimming(212)629-8388 All lines,Anystyles.FineFastService. Manufacturing Facility Apparel/Accessory/Textile Specialists Technical Designer Small orbiglots.Wedomarkersand Freelance Designer Very capablemanufactureravailable 917-757-0976 N.Y.C. Contractor PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PATTERN/SAMPLES Design, PresentationBoards,Prints, CASHMERE! FineGaugesweaters! ork. Custom-madeBridalwr212-629-4808 eia aaeetwt vr40 over with management merican 20.Mngmn to acceptable. FaxMr.Benson: is Underperforming Management remain. and retailer $30 $200M. between acquire sales with to Wishes Group trainavail 10 Classes/Upto45K/internavail *Train AsstDesigner&Prod’nAsst* 54 hrsPkg/Flats,Prints,Colorways **Photoshop 7.0&Illustrator10.0** FOREIGN GROUP [email protected] Design, CAD,graphs,embs,boards PATTERNS/SAMPLES COTTON, RAYON,NYLON,SILK, FASHION TRAINING CAD, Specs,Allaspectsofdesign. For informationcall(718)385-3479 FREELANCE DEIGNER - 15+yrs compatible. women’s apparel.LectraSoftware All aspectsofdesign914-237-0023 Swtrs, knit,woven,socks,specs, RASKIN EXECUTIVESEARCH Call Bradat212-889-1646ext316 Can turngoodsinthreeweeks! Permanent Pleating,Ruffling Call Jimat212-889-1646ext319 samples too.Call973-266-0901 Trained Hundredssince2002 Call Jerr Women’s orChildren’sWear www.raskinexecsearch.com Please call(917)609-8815 Call Sherr PRODUCTIONS ELASTIC SMOCKING PRODUCTION Cut/Sew/Ship 212-935-1610 Dominican Fax: 212-949-6146 212-869-2699 y 809-246-1885ext23 Call (229)762-3535or y or , 212-719-0622. / www.vic-usa.com T:212-268-7291 y 212-966-1169 [email protected] , ’ o ute osdrto.Equal consideration. further Opportunit for PROFESSIONAL RESUMES,INC. akrudhlfl l.fxrsm & resume salar fax Pls. Importing good helpful. skills. background have E-mail & Must Word Excel, sales Depts. with Production work & to individual Detailed eurd ra potnt olearn. to day-to-day opportunity 45K. [email protected]. travel Great for Limited required. communication. manage Responsible client problem deliveries, materials, solve. to track seeks of fabric, bill order Create manufacturer individual process. prod. label hands-on Private awareness. not necessary).Self-motivated &trend basic computerskills(Illustrator good/ team player,follow-up&detail oriented, European sptswr.Min.2yrs. Mustbea screens/emb, Char- must. plaids, a resumeto: Email acter licaplus. Photoshop Mac & sketches. Illustrator technical prints, & storyboards cre- to ate Designer Graphic seeks co Mens creative. in experience extremely years -3 childrens. Exc.Salary&Benefitspackage. 2 be Minimum Individual girls. should and infant/toddler level to design Illustrator/Photoshop, taste of great knowledge seeks with company individual Childrenswear Major or Floor with W [email protected] 8th to: salary Email - with environment Broadway-Dept.AD2 resume to: history Send comprehensive unique benefits. & salaries in competitive offer We skills Photoshop. a computer & Illustrator & Mac in design degree BA/BS fashion trim. have & must Candidate fabrics o construction, knowledge development, garment & agents, skills color drawing fittings, presentations, research, w/overseas market board design communication include: account. Women’ development, will major retail a Responsibilities label on Lifestyle work licensed/private years Associate & to 5 Activewear apparel of an in minimum experience a seeking apparel with major Designer is a Inc., company Moret, Jacques exp. years 2-3 required. Faxresumeto: sensitive Minimum Illustrator. w/Photoshop time & proficient able on be be Must efficiently and projects. level work taste good to specing. a and have Must sketching presen- boards, include tation organized will highly Duties seeking individual. co. label/junior/missy size private plus paced Fast A A o rns rpis t.Ms ecomp be Must etc. literate andhave"younghand" graphics, artists prints, exp’d for seeking co’s kidsw’r Est’d RESUMES THATWORK!SINCE1970 Asst. ProductMgr. asst. AdvertisingDirector.Mustspeak Global contemporarywomen’sfashion ASSOCIATE DESIGNER ASSISTANT DESIGNER ADMIN. ASST.-Fashionmagazineto A.D. FORMANASSOC. RTISTS (2) N/B, INF, TODDS RTISTS (2)N/B,INF,TODDS Email: n mn Immed dmin organizational &comm.skillsreq’d. ilol otc hs candidates those contact only will e Italian. $28K.Fax:(212)490-0454or Please faxresumeto212-239-2766 Administrative Asst. buyer w/min.of2yrs.exp.Strong 450 7thAve.(AGCY)268-6123 retailer islookingforanassociate Associate Buyer Associate Designer ASST. DESIGNER [email protected] Account Manager y www.resumesforfashion.com 60 E42ndStreet,NYC10165 MIS DIRECTOR Updating/Phone Interviews requirementsto:(212)244-1674 (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Email: [email protected] [email protected] ACCESSORIES CO. Fax: (212)614-6616 [aem’kei] y Contact: [email protected], y cfashion2003@ aqe oe,Ic 1411 Inc. Moret, Jacques Emplo AS/400 y er M/F 212-391-2821 y ahoo.com OPEN$ f s / Kid, Teens,Adults,WomenandMens. optrsil.Pes a resume fax Please have w must skills. details, computer and fabrics o colors, line understanding of an phases with products all development of of range knowledge wide have and with be work Must to sizes. Design able Large & and to Missy sportswear Buying Junior, and dresses our buyer for of department motivated charge energetic take and seeks area, aggressive stores ladies plus metropolitan 10 label in of chain private discount apparel forward Fashion Or Email:[email protected] Fax Resumew/salaryinfo:914-962-2257 W MUST HAVECURRENTEXPERIENCE! BELT DESIGNERTo60KNYCLoc. Bookkeeper. Mustbeexp’donMASS9 Est’d Co.inS.HackensackseeksF/T exp. Pleasesendresume&salaryto: µ nycniae eetdforfurtherconsideration willbecontacted.EOE. selected candidates Only knowledge µ µ µ calendar µ & relatedacct.softwarewith3-5yrs. ith salar edn n experience and with printsisaplus. embroidery, beading of work environment. to Knowledge paced able fast a be in de- & of exp. years sign 10 creative of Must min. & team. have design talented to person to a looking add co. sportswear suits & dress, Established Well Fax resume:212-944-5127 brand intheindustry,isseekinga Production Coordinator ell knownAccessoryCo.Design rddcmay ADQsymbol NASDAQ company, publicly traded are We package. and benefits 401(k) options, competitive Y- stock a salary, offer Generation We direct a marketer. & company is media focused Inc. Alloy Word &Excelrequired. MS with Familiarity junior& fit. of juniorplus exp knowledge fitting have model and live have experience. Must years 3-5 Minimum µ µ µ µ Responsibilities: ALOY. EOE Designer Communicate withbuyers&vendors 2-3 yrs.previousproductionbkgrnd Computer literatew/strongExcel Detail orientedandarticulate Monitor productionstatus-T&A handling fitsfromcountersample SPEC TECHNICIAN Alloy/GFLA dynamiccatalogsare to joinourmerchandisingteam. The SpecTechisresponsiblefor Approve specsforpre-production Fit countersmpls&advisechanges Conduct measurements&fitaprvls Assist insampleapprovalprocess Qualified applicantsshouldfax the hippestandfastestgrowing BOOKKEEPER resume withsalaryhistoryto AMERICAN EAGLE to pre-productionandTOP. Steve @Fax:(201)329-6114 American EagleOutfitters, fax to212-244-4311 looking foraseasoned for ourNYCityoffice. OUTFITTERS [email protected] Join OurTeam Live yourLife y histor 212-561-4880 BUYER Resumes to y to: (201) 946-0900 0 f WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 5, 2003 17 r / , f s f s r r 212-398-7647 Ltd. Fax (212) 302-1161 @r-pac.com g, g 212-679-1381 [email protected] Paid Relocation _ 603-963-5700. [email protected] or 212-947-3400 OHIO JOBS! OHIO Or fax to 212-674-1617 y fidel Fox PRODUCTION Please e-mail resumes to: and requirements to: 212-842-3217 Fax resume to: 212-768-7725 Fax 212-328-1230 or email: Fax resume to 646-435-7411 Fax resume to: 212-594-3999 y [email protected] resumebox2003@ yahoo.com Production Coord. PATTERNMAKER e offer an excellent compensation ork quickly and effectively under /overseas vendors, w/good follow up ith all phases of production. High ith a minimumho of 2 years thrives experience inill an include daily upbeat communication with and fast oven production, fromdevelopment orking in better market/overseas & Email resume: [email protected] Production Assistant Production Assistant PRODUCTION ASST olume order entry, faxing and filing. CENTRAL NJ APPAREL MFR. Product Development Mgr. Production Coordinator Fax resume w/ salary requirement to: Production Coordinator Order Processing Clerk Order Processing COORDINATOR ASST. PRODUCTION ASSIST ToddWa Apparel Staffin Production Coordinato Ability to do spec’s & write comments-sportsw Production Coordinato UPC creation & entry and filing. Individual will also performback-up pressure. Excellent communication skills. pressure. Excellent communication skills. Sportswear Cophones, seeks handle indiv switchboard,distribute handle to & mail, answer supplies, maintain computer & data order entry, invoicing office Midtown Intimatecandidates Apparel w/ Co.oriented, seeks 1-2 excellent in& years follow-ups, tracking issue samples exp. withoverseas sample Detail- room office,chart for customer/overseas office. monitor & update Production Immed Managers-Knits $75K Coordinators To $55K Retail Link-Walmart $Open Largeindividual outerwear withfollow-through company 2-4 all yrsMust seeking experience production be to details. detailliterate. oriented Ability and topaced, high-volume import dept req’d. computer work well in a fast- Busy children’s outerwear co.,detail oriented seeking ind. totion assist in follow produc- w up, daily communication specing, computer skillsurgency. and sensequirements to: (212) 465-8122 o Fax resume w/ salary. re- Established PrivateBlouse import/mfr seeks experienced, Labeldetail oriented Women’ individualw to follow-up Leadingaccessories women’s companymotivated seeks andw a Production highly w children’ Coordinator w communications skills. Computera literate must, AS400 experienceexperience a with plus. Wal-Mart Prior also helpful. Retail Link W 401(k) plan. For immediateplease consideration, faxhistor resumes including salary Midtown Manufacturer/Importer seeks sweater production coordinatoryears with experience. 5 plus. Chinese/Bilingual a Plsrequirements to fax your resume & salary •Technical Director. Better Sweaters...... $150K •Technical Director. Better •Technical Designer. Sweaters/Knits...... $85K Fast growing, mid-townaging apparel accessories pack- firmseeksmotivated person a to highly joinResponsibilities its clerical staff. v will includeReception high- dutiesregular including mail and telephones, Must over be night proficient packages. E-mail confidential resume to: in Excel and Word. Career Blouseperson Importer seeksability for very tocomments exp. cut/sew F/T. samples, andW do Blouse resolve specs, fit prod background, problems. Seeking exp’d.Mgr. Product Development toDevelop patterns, manage specs andentire all BOM’s product for aspects line.specs for Create prototypes. of newManage Precost QC products. product PD. function foruct. finished prod- Minimum 10established years networks experience already with to: Please send resume with salary req. in place. Fast pacedseeks Importer organized & andindividual. Manufacturer highly motivated Must havecation good skills, communi- seas knowledgeable shipping, inand some letter of credit experience. good over- computer skills Follow upw on all phasesw of knit & and benefits package including a skills, shd be& able to sales. liaison bet prodn Must have knowledge o level of communication withStrong key accts. productioncomputer planning skills exp. ain women’s blouse. must. and Min 5 yrs exp. paced environment. Responsibilities overseas vendors, acttween design as and aing artwork sales liaison and depts. sales be- carious other follow-up issues. order regard- details and The idealPlayer, candidate detail must oriented,possess be organized a excellent and Team written and verbal to final delivery. Must have 2-3yrs exp. be computer literate/detail oriented. / l r r g d x r ) y +) timely $50-80K .... @justmgt.com Design y NAP Inc. 703-846-8569 @winstonstaffing.com (212) 840-7803 or jud y DESIGNER 516-484-8770 [email protected] Merchandiser to $125K designing and executing visual 212-481-7498 Attn: Mina E-mail: [email protected] product. Allen*Just Mgmt.* cma Fax resume to 212-239-2766 Fax resume to 212-239-2766. JOBS JOBS JOBS CAREER OPPORTUNITIES: HANDBAGS Judy*Just Mgmt.*800-544-5878 Merchandiser/Design to $130K MERCHANDISER 800-544-5878 [email protected] [email protected] Please call 212-972-9300 or e-mail: NB, Infant & toddler. Mgmt. exp. Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 IMPORT MANAGER ith minimum 3 years experience. / min. 3 yrs exp in accessory design Jr. Sweater Designer Please fax or email your resume to: erbal and written skills and be very (Womens Sweaters or Wal-Mart exp a Artists: Boys or Girls or Missy or Mens Designer Yg Mens-Boys Active-Urbanwr Designers - Assists - Assoc - Boy or Girl Merchandiser Missy/Jr handbag-retail exp Prod’n Sourcing Coords-bilingual Chinese RETAIL ANALYST/PLANNER MERCHANDISER/SALES (Exp with NEDGRAPHICS or U4IA*) (Junior Inspired also Denim and YM) (Exp with Wovens, Knits or Sweaters) (Opptys in both Mens and Womens) (High end Madison avenue Store) (Support Top Level Exec)

(Mens, Womens & Childrens) (Junior Sweaters, tops or Sleepwear) Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agc GROMWELL GROUP Home Fashion imports.Fabric/finished Merchandising Directo *CAD DESIGNERS...... $35-70K *DESIGN ASSOCIATES...... $45-55K *PRODUCTION...... $25-42K *DIRECTOR OF SALES...... to $125K *STORE MGR...... $60-100K *ADMIN ASSISTANT...... $50-60K Designers Immed delivery. Knowledge of AS 400 required. Majorindividual apparelMust have mass merchants exp. with ladies/missys company exp. seeks Multi-unit salon chain (700+),northern based Virginia, in ismerchandising seeking professional a to talented ment compli- the management team.candidate The should ideal haveexperience at least developing 5grams, promotional years pro- merchandising strategies, possessv strong self motivated. Experience inforecasting and planning, purchasing aresume with salary requirements to: plus. Fa w Responsibilities includemonitoring scheduling overseasprocessing and documents shipments to ensure and * *Designer Mens Better Activewear *Designer - Missy/Jr. Handbags * *Designers Jrs: 1)C/S Knit 2)Sweaters * *Fit Technician * *Production: Mgrs - Coords - Assists * *Receptionist - Great Fashion Co. *Technical Designers & Spec Techs Rate opportunity tocompany join at well established theare Designer a young level. thinking,Designer, we want to meet you. If talented Sweater you Merchandiser Immed MERCHANDISER Jr trendyaccessory co. is costume lookingw for a jewelry Merchandise merch. & Abilityreq’d. hair to Must& interact be computer detail-oriented, w/ literate.commens Salary organize clients & benefits w/exp.resume to: [email protected] Please email you Major infantMerchandiser. Must be wear ableand to identify company forecastyears seeks experience. trends.benefits package. Good Minimum salary 3-5 and Rapidlyimporter growingcreative seeks fast Designerteam. 1 full paced to to 2 yrssal req to: join exp. apparel time Fax resume our includin extremely talented $Open Director-Sweaters Knits $Open Director-Cut/Sew Leading Intimatehighly Apparel creative designers Co.Bachelor’s & assistants. degree seeks inStrong Fashion creativeskills. Design. technical CAD and knowledgeto: based on exp. Fax resume & salary req. a admin must. Salary *PRODUCTION MGR...... $80-100K Major apparel company seeks individua *ACCT EXECS...... $65-150K *DESIGNER/MERCHANDISER$125K * / .com y Fax resume 212-869-7508 marcus.com y @nell 212-730-8214 y Fax: 212-354-1224 DESIGNER DAVOUCCI Rousso Apparel Group, Inc. Fax resume to 212-869-4329 e-mail: bbruk@rousson opencallda e’re accepting designer submissions Designer - Freelance ill be respected. Competitive salary ho can develop group concepts, from DESIGN DIRECTOR DESIGN DIRECTOR /coverletter to JEWELRY DESIGNERS! DESIGNER and benefits package. sketching to embellishment to presen- tation. Please have some Orient expe- rience. Fax or e-mail resume to: w Online BoutiqueW Launches in March! line sheets/ info to: Needed to head designMen’s teamfor Urban Young line.motivated, creative, energetic individu- Inal for search this for position.perience 3-5 self- years needed. designized ex- Must and be have wellof design. Computer skills a must. knowledge organ- of all phases Highhouse end seeks designto Dir. manage Contemporary Must designorganized. be Must dept understand able contempo- andrary fashion be market highly pling with in experience thew in Far sam- East. Confidentiality NY based women’s designDirector house seeks of Design.leadership and Must management haveas skills, act a strong liaisonoversee between all departments aspectsEffective and communication, of superb designskills tech and process. overseassimilar experience. Fax: experience. 4+ years For fun Missy casualwear for specialty stores and better dept stores. We are looking for a highly creative person w for 2 more weeks. Swing us your pics

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a must. Fabric CAD (212) 594-7720 Operator to computer skills y Aeropostale e offer a competitive salary and e are an equal opportunity employer m/f. ill be responsible for assisting design eropostale, one of the fastest growing oung Men’s and Junior specialty DESIGN ASSISTANT DESIGN ASSISTANT Performing stitch simulation with Completing colorways for all inputs 1-2 years of experience Inputting all patterns and mini bodies Proficiency with Prima Visions "Graphics Inputting yarn dye patterns into correct Mode" and "Knit Expert" for design constructions µ different gauges & cable µ To qualify, you must have: µ µ retailers, is looking for a dynamic w director in all aspectsfromfabric of to final design production. process edge Knowl- ofgarment garment specing construction,and and flat fitting, knowledge, sketching creativity anda design sens plus. Pleasehistor fax resume with salary W Missy importStrong bkg knit cutyrs co & exp. Able sew toly seeking knits. handle organized pressure, asst. high- incl and Min 2-3 teamplayer. sketching,attn Duties tech to detail.Photoshop pkgs, 7/Illustrator Comp 10. lab exp:friendly Fast Word/Excel, environment. dips, paced fits. Fax resume: Ivonne 212-391-8027. 401(k) & bene- Unique opportunityorganized for teamplayer an tofast energetic, work growing with sportswear a co. Candidate A Y executive to jointhis position, you will be responsible for: their New York team. In µ µ W comprehensive benefits. Ifplease fax interested, your resumeor to 646-485-5430 email to [email protected]. n req: 212-719-0338. y Must flat sketch, spec, Major Apparel Co. located in L.I. DESIGN ASSISTANT Production/Sales Coord 35-40K & be resp.fax resume w/ salar for development pkgs. Pls. Jr. sleepwear co. seeks motivated, detail- oriented indiv.& w/ comm. skills. strong organizatio Customer Service 35-40K Raskin Executive Search Ed Kret Fax: 212-949-6146 Ph: 212-213-6384 ROWING! 212-447-1182 JUNIOR DESIGNER exciting career opportunities. HANDBAG DESIGNER WE ARE G ARE WE [email protected] or 212-947-3400 y BUYER is seeking several talented & motivated individuals for clothing store in Soho looking for COLORIST $55-65K Please fax resumes indicating position of interest to:212-696-2098 Accessory Exchange, a diversified handbag & accessories company, DESIGNER - JUNIOR BRANDED MERCHANDISE Great entry-level design opportunitymotivated with self-starter. excellent Gain growth hands-on opportunity experienceand talented design team. Computer literacy a must. for as a part of our dynamic Excellent opportunity fordesigner. an Position experienced requires expert Contemporary/Missyoverseas knowledge travel handbag of experience budget and handbag excellentliteracy preferred. market, communication skills. Computer Challenging and rewardingSuccessful opportunity candidates to will launchexperience, new have excellent brand communication aand Photoshop. Overseas travel required. skills category. minimum and of knowledge of 3-5 Illustrator years of design SusieJessil omens better sportswear & casual ccessory Co. seeks creative, versatile Position Available Immediately! Budget Missy Sportswear Woven & Knits Computer Graphic Designer in-house designer/graphic artisttogether to various put lines ofuct. licensed prod- Must be proficient in PhotoShop A 5.5 & Illustratorrequirements to Isaac at: 10.0. Fax resume/salary New w sptswr. buyer. Min. exp. 5 yrs. Please fax cover ltr., salary req. & resume to: (212) 219-3757 Mgr. positions available. 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 5, 2003 Jobs, orE-mailto: and salaryhistoryinconfidence to a must!Salarycommensurate withexperience.Faxresumes decision-making skills. Off-pricebuyingorsimilarexperience Gifts, PLUSstrongnegotiation, analytical,written,verbal,and in Men’s,Women’s,Children’s,Accessories,Shoes, orDomestic/ of buyingexperience(ortwoyearsAssistant buyers experience) Buyers profitable, off-pricedretailer,islookingforself starting, WANTED: GABRIELBROTHERSINC., ehia einams.Tescesu addt a the has in understands experience and candidate through yrs. successful follow -2 problems, deadlines. The 1 research must. of to ability minimum a a Design inter- Organ- with Technical engineering. and player garment sketching team and flat ized pat- development of fittings, of understanding specifications, pretation and to making, following garment tern the Measure of required: talented knowledge a is working seeks Solid NYC, designer. in technical located company, apparel Women’s and

Qualified candidatespleasefaxyourresumeto: Assistant Buyers [email protected] TECHNICAL DE 508-513-2061 orEmailto: [email protected] EOE/M/F/D/V withaminimumoffiveyears (425)952-7263 SIGNER a fastgrowing, , Attn. onalcto,poesn shipping processing break- allocation, down size purchasing/coordination, Excellent computerskillsnecessary. and havegoodcommunicationskills. ing accounts.Mustbedetailoriented manner phone excellent calls. ordering and frontdeskappearance. have telephone duties. routing Must administrative include and supplies day Responsibilities to day Jewelry div.AllOverseas.NYCLoc. utb oda multi-tasking, at good organized and goodfollowup.GreatBenefits. skills, literate communication be good showroomexp. computer yrs Must 1-2 with oriented, individual seeks Company detail Apparel Ladie’s NYC w Entry levelpositionavailabletowork and Westchester retail great benefits. NYC, key NJ, Long Island.Musthavecar.To$30K& merchandise in col- to stores for grad looking lege Corp. Eyewear Lantis a for looking w is company apparel Major Fax Please overseas. resume to:212-382-2323 with communi- skills Strong concepts. cation Knowledge & exp. trend years in in 3-5 scourcing Min. seeks denim. Co. Apparel Junior Bilingual- challenge. someone a for required. Chinese/English aplus.Faxresumeto: opportunity abilities seeking technical negotiating Unique Must Strong develop production. product. and to source team of and merchant handle aspects w/ line partner gift all men’s to in and for furnishings goods home soft/hard aggressive manager garments, licensed seeks production company Diverse Or Email:[email protected] Fax Resumew/salaryinfo:914-962-2257 W computer extensive skill isimperative,specificallyExcel. An releases/delivery notifications. documents/bank processing, order seeks w purchase manufacturer include Responsibilitie individual. dress detail-oriented Leading Must havecurrentexpforthis PRODUCTION /JEWELRY-To75K Q/A SUPERVISOR$60-80 [email protected] orfaxto Production/Import Asst Faxresume&salaryreq’s,attention: E-mail resume&salaryrequirements Production/Sourcing Bridge/Better. Exp.inIntl./ (201)766-7717. Secaucus,NJhomeoffice. ToddWa r npoesmitiec,trim maintainence, process in ork ith AccountExecutiveonmaintain- manage to individual organized ell Mfr RetailExp.PerformQ/AAudits eueaincmesrt ihqaiiain n xeine laeapywt ealdresume detailed with apply Please experience. and and salaryexpectedto: qualifications with commensurate Remuneration •Quality ProfessionalCertificationsconsideredaplus •Experience asaQualityProfessionalinmultinationalcompany •Demonstrated successfulhighlevelcustomerinterfaceforQualityProcessissues •Statistical ProcessControlknowledgeandexperienceinSPCimplementation •Knowledge ofISOrequirementsandexperienceinqualificationmaintenance. •Intensive travelingbetweenthedifferentlocationsofoperationsandcustomerswillberequired •Good initiative,mature&trustworthy •Excellent leadership,presentation,communicationandinterpersonalskills •Excellent written&spokenEnglish •Understanding ofapparelindustryrequirementsrecommended. Multinationaltechnologycompanyexperienceconsideredapositive. •Significant experienceatseniorlevelqualitymanagement. •Minimum 10yearsmanufacturingindustryexperience.Technologyconsideredaplus. •University degreerequired,technicalorbackgroundpreferred of culture the maintaining and Potential candidatesshouldmeetthefollowingrequirements: developing for responsible be will 20 incumbent continuously strivingforthebestqualityinallareasofgroup’soperationunits. the over CEO, the and to Kong Reporting Hong in headquarters conglomerate,with plants worldwide,seeksaCorporateDirectorofQuality. manufacturing multi-national Leading Retail Merchandiser Production Manager ell knownAccessoryCo.for All applicationswillbetreatedinstrictconfidence.Personaldatacollectedusedforrecruitmentpurposesonly SALES ASSISTANT SALES ASSISTANT Human Resources(212)764-2588 prod’n. Techexp. 212-768-3588 Attn: Christine RECEPTIONIST PRODUCTION Fax resumeto212-239-2766 Fax resumeto212-239-2766 Corporate DirectorofQuality to: hrjoblist@ 212 7042041 Please faxresumeto: y MANAGER JR. DENIM [email protected] Call212-947-3400 Email resumeto , aseriousplus. Att:ERIC y ahoo.com Domestic Visit ourwebsiteat K s [email protected] ne ute osdrto.Equal consideration. Opportunit further or under 10018 NY York, New E-mail resumeto:[email protected] Floor, SSC, 8th Broadway, Dept. 1411 Inc. to: Moret, history send salary with Please resume benefits. comprehensive fyuaepro okn o growth for looking must. person a are Excel opportunities, pleasefaxresumeto: of you knowledge Comput- If pants. literate, product and er woven offices. outerwear & of including factories knowledge overseas Tcchnical with cation togaayia kls&computer & possess skills must accts. skills inWord&Excel. analytical communica- Candidate strong strong skills. & retail to tion purchase service compliance support customer & sales management, include major order in exp w/ Responsibilities Coord of Support maintain yrs Sales a 2-4 co apparel seeking major is a Inc., Moret Jacques ncretsses uthave Must salary Excellent and benefitspackage. skills. systems. analytical and good abilities employees communication support current excellent and train on background help industry to apparel with ual individ- seeks company Manufacturing and patternmaking production, garment construction. y in 3 have Must send established Please resume &salar place. with in already experience networks continuously Minimum yrars to sources. 10 able better for be prospect delivery Must & cycles. levels and quality pricing, foreign maintaining LDP and negotiating domestic locations, visiting and product by develop all lines for Must matrix supplier manage expe- necessary. Package Full rience and Asia finished SE for goods. Mgr. Sourcing exp’d. Seeking req’ salary & to: 212-643-2083 resume fax manage- Please to shipping ment. directly report all receiving, for & NYC Responsible active manage location. to looking person exp’d mfg for sportswear & dress Better computer exp. yrs. 2 skills. Faxresumeto: have Shipping Must organized Clerk. seeks co. based NJ candidate seeks w co. manufacturing Major years 4+ trims. & yarn similar experience.Fax: fabric, for base exe- for cuting Responsible seeks Manager. house Sourcing design women’s based NY W W uthv salse eibevendor reliable & established have Must SusieJessil SCOURCING MANAGER TD SpecTech Tech SOURCING MANAGER Manager w/minimum5yearsexperience SHIPPING CLERK SENIOR MERCHANDISER All Markets Markets Shipping &WrhseMgr CENTRAL NJAPPARELMFR. SUPPORT/TRAINER $40-65K $40-65K t i 0yaseprec.Communi- experience. years 10 min ith Fax resume&salar NY NJ NYNJ ilol otc hs candidates those contact only will e & salaries competitive offer e SPEC TECHNICIAN Sportswear CoinBrooklynseeksa Please faxresumeto212-239-2766 Fax resumeto:212-941-0114or Sales Support

Coordinator E-mail: ad aaigErpa sourcing. European managing & SUPERVISOR SHIPPING y www.esquel.com SYSTEMS y [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Emplo 212-643-0593 s rcia experience practical rs. y req.to: y @necob y y reqs:718-625-2244 er M/F 212-398-1661 603-963-5700 212-869-7508 j .com Jacques forbriefprofile . s is utb ealoine.with oriented. Knowledge detail skills. be follow-up facto- excellent Must to reports ries. detailed com- municating 5 and meas- evaluation fit to specs, garments, uring 3 issuing experience have years must candidate Qualified deo rpi pc alr,Cdor Cad Knowl- Gallery, Spec, must. PDM. Graphic a of sketching edge verbal Flat and written computer skills. strong incep- be with Must from literate completion. process to monitor tion & evalu- sportswear, fit and pack- ate dresses technical in woven ages develop to produc- in- tion and Will sourcing w/design, Designer. terface Technical on hands ig,ses ltsecig construc- Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc sketching, fit- flat tion ofgarmentandfabrics.Midtown. in specs, exp. tings, Current bilingual. English makers. pattern with 4+ outside exp. have and Must overseas specs. all produc- and to tion fromproto Re- fits skills. for sponsible communication clear effective with & Designer Tech seeks oriented house detail design women’s based NY A computer and a must.Fax/E-mailresumetoJFat: grading patternmaking, of individua is organized w highly company for label looking private Established ehia einrt 5KChinese $50K to Designer Technical TECHNICAL DESIGNE 212-302-1856 /office@ Yarn/Fabric BuyerAssoc $45K F/T Sal+Ben.Photoshop2+ yrsexp. Technical DesignAssociate ToddWa t xeln omncto skills. communication excellent ith Primavision orU4iaexp.preferred. h ats rwn opne in the world. companies growing fastest of the one join could youropportunity to be forsports, this passion a have and office experience years management three to two have you our in playerto our fill team talented enthusiastic a and seeking currently are We Couture Designhouse.7thAvenue edri h nutysesproven seeks industry the in leader OFFICE SUPERVISOR Please respondw/salaryreq’sto: At adidasAmerica,ourmission Technical Designer in thesubjectlineofyouremail. As such,weseekcandidates To apply,sendyourresumeto y Please indicatethejobnumber, teamwork, expectthebestand is tobethebestsportsbrand take responsibility,committo ears similarexp.Fax: equal opportunityemployer. [email protected]. Fax Resume212-947-4501 TEXTILE CADARTIST adidas Americaisan NO AGENCIES-EEO 03-077 andjobtitle, y e ok Ylocation NY York, New fieSupervisor Office [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Office Supervisor, [email protected] push forthewin. Fax 212-221-4245 in the world. y ellowriverinc.com 212-869-7508 position who .If y . R l / yapitet / oiinrequires primarily position w Work F/T appointment. Salon. our by Ave. in Madison salesperson high-end exp’d bridal/accessories for opening Immediate Please opportunity. Fax resume/salar strategically growth N.Y.C. think plans. Excellent sales to execute ability and skills the have computer plus Must & retailers. financial analytical, major other Tar- or at Co., contacts Divi- present get, Boys have new must exciting sion, sales our join motivated to pro highly aggressive, an Seeking reputable manufacturer. a wear join children’s to opportunity Fantastic Excellent skills. follow-up, management benefit andincentivepackage. service, possess and customer must strong Candidates experience existing maintain and accounts. new with stores cultivate to department/specialty Executive seasoned handling a for looking Sales is Miller Nicole com- excellent sales pensations andbenefits.NYCBased. environment, seeks Fun company rep. moderate sportswear im- and port domestic Growing related and separates fast Established resume to:Jenniferat(212)3914327 Email resumes:[email protected] eekends. Hourly+comm benefits. For consideration,pleasefaxyour Account Exec-Sales Boys’ DivisionSales erigadgoigwt the with salary withexcellentbenefits. competitive offera growing We in and company. interested learning a worker prod’n for sourcing, looking dedicated are and We fabric/trim scheduling. costings yrs in garment 3-4 ideal have exp The should office. our candidate City York in New coordinators for production available positions several has outerwear a in Group, manufacturer Amerex leading growth, to Due n eeispackage. benefits Please faxresumeto: Based. compensation and NYC of Excellent divisions Stores. with Ross various relationships seeks with Exeutive established Co. Account Women’s Sportswear moderate Established Account Executivetosell Account Executive Production Coordinators a-at ..Pne,Sas May Sears, Penney, J.C. Wal-Mart, No phonecalls please.EOE BRIDAL BRIDAL Off PriceSpecialist Fax Resume(212)764-5981 (732) 499-8529oremail: 212-997-0040 [email protected] Please faxresume ROSS STORES y req.to: S AL 212-967-6812 ES

based. 19 Surging Chico’s Eyes Expansion WWD, Victor’s Secret Safe WEDNESDAY Continued from page 2 name has yet to be determined, shop, but no one is paying atten- T-shirts, with sales running on it will sport the credit “by tion. Chico’s has done a phenom- or above plan, Murphy said. Chico’s” on signs and labels. enal job at addressing her needs With Court, for Now With the broader markets “This is undoubtedly a natu- and treating her with respect.” falling, Chico’s shares finished ral extension of the Chico’s What’s more is the segment is Continued from page 2 , Tuesday at $17.20, down 60 cents, brand and something our cus- still virtually untapped, proven by Appeals ruling in 1999 that said MARCH or 3.4 percent, in New York Stock tomers are already looking for,” new Chico’s units that are already Ringling Brothers-Barnum & Exchange trading. Murphy said. “We think she generating sales per square foot Bailey Circus, which uses the

Chico’s is rapidly expanding needs a destination.” Murphy of about $1,000, Levitan said. slogan “The Greatest Show on 5,

its store base of Chico’s stores, also noted the targeted cus- Jennifer Black, an analyst at Earth,” had to prove economic 2003 adding between 70 and 75 net tomers are probably shopping Wells Fargo Securities, said: harm in its trademark infringe- new stores in 2003, including 10 for intimates at department “They have done an incredible ment case against Utah’s use of Pazo stores expected to open stores or Victoria’s Secret. job. They know their targeted cus- “The Greatest Snow on Earth” this quarter, three on March 6, However, she added, “there tomer and what she wants, as on state license plates. The cir- compared with adding 67 in is not any offering out there that demonstrated by the strong re- cus didn’t meet that test, the 2002 and 61 in 2000. At the end gives her a true destination.” ception of its recent 68-page cata- court ruled. log.” She also credited the consis- Stephen Colangelo, a Wash- tency of Chico’s fashion — its re- ington trademark attorney who People totally underestimate what is sistance to the whims of sudden represented the circus in that case, “ changes in color or other ele- said the Supreme Court’s Victor- happening here. You have a complete ments of fashion — for its success. ia’s Secret decision “gives some Although the company did guidance but very little” as to migration of the single most attractive not provide financial guidance, what the proper measure of dilu- founder and chief executive of- tion might be. He called the High customer, who has money, time and likes ficer Marvin Gralnick said in a Court’s decision “disappointing.” statement: “We look forward to He continued: “The Court to shop, but no one is paying attention. fiscal 2003 as we work to solidify said the fact there is a mental ” our infrastructure with the association between names is — Lauren Cooks Levitan, SG Cowen Securities launch of new and improved not enough. I think the Court is The Supreme Court said Victoria’s software and as we continue to telling the lower courts to go Secret (above) had not proved that a of the quarter, Chico’s operated Lauren Cooks Levitan, an an- pursue new brand extensions back and work on this a little bit Kentucky sex-toy shop had infringed 368 stores, while franchisees alyst with SG Cowen Securities, for Chico’s, including the launch longer. It’s still possible for on its trademark. own 12 additional units. said: “This is a natural. If you of our new concept, Pazo, later Victoria’s Secret to prevail.” The new concept was borne think about what is left for the this week. Fiscal 2003 promises New York trademark attor- come for trademark holders. of the success of Chico’s C Wear Baby Boomer to go to depart- to be an exciting year for us.” ney Ethan Horwitz said “The big fear was they would loungewear and sleepwear col- ment stores for, it is intimates. For the full year, net income Victoria’s Secret should have no make it more difficult” to prove lection, its soft, stretchy, pima And she is not getting ac- rose 58.2 percent to $66.8 million, problem providing evidence via dilution, said Horwitz, who suc- cotton line, introduced to tivewear at Niketown.” or 78 cents a diluted share, com- expert witnesses as to how its cessfully defended Pepperidge Chico’s just two months ago. It is Addressing the Chico’s demo- pared with income in 2001 of $42.2 trademark may have been blem- Farm’s trademarked Goldfish aimed at the company’s 641,000 graphic, Levitan noted: “People million, or 50 cents, which is adjust- ished by Victor’s Secret. crackers in 1999 when Nabisco permanent and 2.3 million tem- totally underestimate what is ed for the 2-for-1 stock split in July Horwitz said the Supreme came out with its own fish- porary Passport loyalty program happening here. You have a com- 2002. Net sales for the 12 months Court went down the “middle of shaped snack. In that case, the participants, with stores to be plete migration of the single rose 40.5 percent to $531.1 mil- the road” in its ruling by not offer- 2nd Circuit Court of Appeals located adjacent or close to ex- most attractive customer, who lion, from $378.1 million last year, ing its own standards of “dilution,” ruled Pepperidge Farm only had isting Chico’s stores. While the has money, time and likes to while comps rose 13.5 percent. which, he said, was a positive out- to prove likelihood of dilution.

Private Label Sales COMMISSION SALES Est’d. Private Label Co., specializing in SALES $$$$$$ 2 divisions of Troy Fashions Inc. moderate priced dresses/soft sportswear, Major Accessory Co. Gifts, Jewelry ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE seeks self motivated individual w/strong Seeks Dynamic Pro to Join their team. NOVELTY KNIT TOPS - Lagos, a 25 year old, designer jewelry company based in Philadelphia, is following to bring in new accounts/ Fax resume Attn: Ruth Nally 201-894-1186 MODERATE TO BETTER business. Fax resume to: 212-819-1873 e-mail [email protected] LINGERIE SALES REPS Track record of sell throughs in majors currently seeking an Account Executive to manage our Key National KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Ladies European Lingerie Co. is Seeking regional - commission sales 201-871-9800 searching for independent Sales Reps people in all territories. Accounts. Qualified candidates will have 5+ years experience in the Fash- SALES $70-80K with intimate apparel contacts at ion Jewelry / Accessory Industry, possess strong analytical background Int’l. co. seeks 3-4 yrs. sales exp. in fabric department & specialty stores. & garments sales of women’s, men’s & Sales COLLEGIATE JR GIRLS’ SPORTSWEAR and relationships with national account base. A combination of Retail Buy- children’s entire line. To apply call: ALL TERRITORIES AVAILABLE 150+ college licences. Track record of NAP, Inc. Fax resume: 212-575-3838 attn: HR ing and Wholesale experience is a plus. Primary Responsibilities Include: 212-949-6660 Ext 10 / Fax: 212-949-6882 Leading Intimate Apparel Company sell throughs in majors Seeking seeks energetic, motivated, organized regional - commission sales people for •Development of strong, productive relationships with account base individuals to sell branded collections SALES REPS - Luggage retail store and/ or campus •Expanding sales and profitability in the existing account base SALES $75K and develop private label accounts. Ground floor opportunity. NY company book store sales in all territories •Management of the business to the door level A/E Hot Mens label Fax resume & salary requirements to: is introducing new luggage line designed FASHION NETWORK 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 212-481-7498 Attn: Rosie for specialty store market. Select terri- Please Fax to: 212-944-3652 or •Travel to key doors for sales support events tories open. Fax resume: (212) 736-3913 E-mail: [email protected] If interested, please Fax or E-mail your resume and salary requirements to: SALES ASSOCIATE Established manufacturer of high-end 215-925-0831 [email protected]. woven fabrics seeks self-motivated salesperson. Candidate must have 2 yrs experience, good communication SALESPERSON skills, be highly organized and have Leading contemporary leather sports- knowledge of Microsoft Office. E-mail wear and outerwear company seeks resume w/ salary history in confidence indiv. to sell to specialty chains, dept to [email protected] stores & specialty stores. High-energy, self-motivated, with desire to grow. Will only consider applicants with 3 Excellent opportunities to join today’s contemporary leader Sales Associate years or more in contemporary or leath- Responsible for showroomsales and as- er markets, no exceptions. Competi- SR. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE - APPAREL sisting VP Sales in our Sportswear tive compensation and extensive bene- Div. Excellent opportunity for energet- fits package. Fax resume and salary SR. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE - ACCESSORIES ic self starter. Must be detail oriented, requirement to 212-840-8155 or E-mail organized, analytical and strong com- [email protected] puter skills. Apparel or retail exp SR. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE - PRIVATE LABEL preferred. SALES POSITION Send resume w/salary history to: BELLY BASICS, the leading brand in Please fax resume indicating position of interest to: [email protected] maternity apparel, is looking for an Fax 212-221-4245 organized, hands-on individual to 212-764-6912 attn: President of Sales EEO No Agencies expand business. Perfect opportunity to work closely with Directors and be involved in all aspects of business. SALES EXECUTIVE Must be able to develop creative Down Outer/Sportswear FUR SALESPERSON Large apparel vertical manufacturer selling strategies to open new Upscale fur manufacturer seeking to seeks sales executives - heavy hitters accounts. Res. & sal requirements to: Sales Mgr./Merchandiser expand distribution. Looking for expe- only. Must have strong contacts with [email protected] rienced salesperson for showroomand Minimum 5 years experience. Strong Wal-Mart, Kohl’s, Target, May, Federated, relationships with dept. and specialty operations. Salary based on qualifica- tions. Fax resume to: 212-967-5271. JCP etc. We offer excellent salary and Sales Representatives chain stores. Fax resume: 212-840-8511 commission pkg. Fax resume w/ salary NY based, bilingual (Mandarin) jewelry/ information to: 212-398-7647 or e-mail Z. CAVARICCI technical designer for FT/PT. Very cre- to [email protected] Z. Cavaricci’s new missy division ative mind w/excellent technical design Est’d. Knit/Sweater Co. needs professional independent sales skills & senior level Web Design/Develop- Seeking an aggressive salesperson with SALES EXECUTIVE representatives to handle specialty ment skills. [email protected] 5-10 years exp., strong dept./specialty Licensed Accessories Co. opening a stores for the following territories: store background, and existing customer new division with many mass accounts West Coast, South West, South and base. Fax resume to: 212-268-4442 Great Sales Oppty! available. Must have 3 years exp. US Women’s novelty better-bridge knit top East Coast. Please fax your resume to travel necessary. Carlo Vieni at 212-764-0501. co. is looking for an aggressive sales Email resume: [email protected] rep for our NY Showroom! Must have est’d FABRIC SALES contacts at dept & specialty stores & have Sweater Sales Top import/domestic converter with large good communication & organizational SALES - JR’S Domestic/Import Swtr. mfr. seeks est’d stock inventory seeks experienced ener- skills. Computer skills a plus. Warm& Dynamic sportswear company seeks rep. w/ strong Missy & Women’s following. ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** getic pro to call on missy, junior, men’s & friendly environment. Salary, benefits & an aggressive salesperson for their Private Label/Catalog. Please contact Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC- kid’s markets. Team player a must. commission negotiable. Send resumes: NYC showroom. Fax: 212-869-5047 or us at: [email protected] or fax TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? Fax resume 212-391-2460 [email protected] or fax: 212-221-3825 Email: [email protected] resume to: (718) 416-2503 CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy. CANADIAN HEAD OFFICE: TRIBAL SPORTSWEAR INC. 9030 Pie IX Blvd. Montreal, QC, H1Z 4M7 Tel.: 514-322-5337 Toll Free: 1-888-584-4225 Fax: 514-322-4717 Fax Toll Free: 1-877-361-3621 CUSTOMER SERVICE TOLL FREE: Tel.: 1-888-584-4225 Fax: 1-877-361-3621 USA: TRIBU INTERNATIONAL INC. 1411 Broadway, Suite # 357 New York, N.Y. 10018 Tel.: 212-944-6940 Toll Free: 1-800-208-2860 Fax: 212-944-7137 CUSTOMER SERVICE TOLL FREE: Tel.: 1-888-584-4225 Fax: 1-877-361-3621