Pinotfile Vol 11 Issue 23

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Pinotfile Vol 11 Issue 23 May is Oregon Wine Month Volume 11, Issue 23 May 6, 2018 Oregon Pinot Noir is Hot! Consumers and sommeliers are infatuated with Oregon Pinot Noir! Long considered a world-class wine region, but catching on even more with the wine cognoscenti, Oregon has seen unprecedented growth of late and now has more than 1,000 vineyards, more than 700 wineries, and grows 72 grape varieties. Full Glass Research released the newest economic impact figures in March 2018. The figures show all economic activity in Oregon related directly or indirectly to wine is $5.61 billion, compared to $3.35 billion just three years ago, an increase of 67% in statewide impact. The number of wine-related and induced jobs in Oregon totaled 29,738, up from 17,099 in 2013, representing a 74% increase. Wine sales grew 17% and Oregon is a major growth leader, percentage wise ahead of all other major growing states and countries around the world. Compared to the 2013 data, wine grape acreage increased 27%, and tons crushed by 42%. Oregon wineries bottled over 3 million 9L cases of wine and had revenues of over $529 million in 2016 (compared to $363 million in 2013) from the sale of packaged wine. Wine exported outside of Oregon increased from 127 million to 196 million, an increase of 53%. Consumers pay on average $39 a bottle for Oregon wine purchased through direct sales according to Ship Compliant data. Oregon wines sell well even though they are priced a little higher on average than wines from other US regions. Wines sold Direct-to-Consumer (DtC) increased 45% from 197 million to 286 million since 2013. Oregon wineries sold 23% of their bottled wine DtC. Case sales for Oregon wineries by destination is showing in the graph below. Don Hagge of VIDON Vineyard, (featured in this issue), created VinAlliance, an association of consumers and wineries for DtC sales with the benefits of traditional wine clubs. The program is in development. Visit www.shopvinalliance.com. The star in Oregon is Pinot Noir where demand continues to grow at an average of 8% a year since 2013, compared to an average of 2% for the wine market as a whole. Rising quality of Oregon Chardonnay and the emergence of Southern Oregon and the Columbia Gorge are also increasing Oregon’s visibility in the market. Since the 2013 report, growth and investment in the Oregon wine industry has expanded with a net increase of 6,480 planted acres, and the number of wineries increased by at least 120. Still, 85% of Oregon wineries produce less than 5,000 cases. Social media references to Oregon wine are more complimentary compared to references to the wine industry in general. Higher-quality Oregon wine continues to show increasing sales. Speakers at this year’s Oregon Wine Symposium emphasized that Oregon should not become complacent and should concentrate on effective national marketing and continue to focus on tourism. Tasting room sales have fallen in other popular US wine region destinations but has held up so far in Oregon despite the fact that they are at the mercy of the terrible, rainy weather in in Willamette Valley in the winter. In other Oregon news, Oregon is in the process of obtaining approval for more sub-appellations within the Willamette Valley AVA, including the proposed Van Duzer Corridor, Tualatin Hills, Mount Pisgah and Lauralwood AVAs. A move is afoot, however, to preserve the value of the more well-known Willamette Valley name, and vintners are encouraged to include Willamette Valley as well as the sub-AVA of origin for each wine. David Adelsheim is planning to submit a truth in labeling law to the Oregon legislature that will require any Pinot Noir or Chardonnay bearing the Willamette Valley designation be made 100% with grapes from the AVA. According to a report from the North Bay Business Journal published online on April 26, 2018, at http://www.northbaybusinessjournal.com/northbay/sonomacounty/8205085-181/sonoma-napa-california- oregon-wine, there are still thousands of acres of plantable land in the Willamette Valley AVA. Some of the smaller sub-AVAs, such as the Dundee Hills, are beginning to fill up, but there is still a number of acres left in the Chehalem Mountains, Yamhill-Carlton and Eola-Amity Hills AVAs. There are thousands of acres available in Folk County. A significant number of smaller vineyards with older vines are self-footed and either infected with phylloxera or at risk for phylloxera. There are few restrictions on new vineyard development, and it is fairly easy to get a permit for a winery and a tasting room on a property. Read more in the Oregon Wine Press: www.oregonwinepress.com/on-the-up-and-up. !2 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir “I think if you asked most people what’s the next best place outside of Burgundy that makes Pinot Noir, hopefully, it’s the Willamette Valley.” Steve Doerner, winemaker, Cristom Vineyards “The most exciting wine area in the USA right now? I say it’s Oregon.” Eric Asimov, New York Times Alloro Vineyard, Chehalem Mountains, Willamette Valley This 79-acre property in the Chehalem Mountains has 28 acres of vines planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Pinot Noir clones are 777, 667, 114, 115, Wädenswil and Pommard planted in Laurelwood series soil. The winery is specifically designed for vinifying Pinot Noir. Veteran winemaker Tom Fitzpatrick crafts three estate Pinot Noirs named Estate, Justina and Riservata. Photo below is of Tom (left) and owner David Nemarnik. Second photo shows an overview of the beautiful estate. The tasting room at the winery is open Thursday-Monday afternoons. Visit www.allorovineyard.com. 2015 Alloro Vineyard Estate Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 14.1% alc., pH 3.65, TA 0.57, 1,600 cases, $40. Estate grown, produced and bottled. 46% Pommard, 35% 777, 19% 114. 100% de- stemmed, 4 to 6-day cold soak, native fermentation, native malolactic fermentation, aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 23% new. Moderate garnet color in the glass. Vigorous aromas of black cherry, rose petal and earthy flora. Generous surge of cherry fruit really alerts the palate. Very fresh and juicy in a mid weight style, with terrific balance and some finishing intent. 92. 2015 Alloro Vineyard Estate ‘Riservata’ Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 14.1% alc., pH 3.65, TA 0.57, 300 cases, $50. A 12 barrel selection blend to capture additional body, weight, texture and complexity. This wine represents the best marriage of all the diverse characteristics contributed by each of the individual vineyard blocks. Truly, a reserve wine. 32% Pommard, 46% 777 and 22% 114. 100% de-stemmed, 4 to 6-day cold soak, native primary and malolactic fermentations, aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 46% new. Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. The nose is somewhat brooding but very genial, with aromas of dark cherry, raspberry and complimentary oak. More of everything in this wine, including concentration, intensity, tannin and finish. Makes a bold statement, yet easy to cozy up to. Mid weight plus in style, with flavors of black raspberry, blackberry, blueberry and spice. Silky in the mouth with a deft integration of oak. Still a bit aloof but the potential is obvious. Considerably more giving when tasted the following day from a previously opened and re- !3 potential is obvious. Considerably more giving when tasted the following day from a previously opened and re- corked bottle. A stunning wine with swagger, depth and dimension. 95. 2015 Alloro Vineyard Estate ‘Justina’ Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 14.1% alc., pH 3.66, TA 0.57, 150 cases, $85. A special barrel select blend, crafted to show off the very best of the vintage. The wine is named after winery owner David Nemarnik’s daughter. 81% 777, 19% 114. 100% de-stemmed, 4 to 6-day cold soak, native primary and malolactiic fermentation, aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 80% new. This beauty is the polar opposite of the Riservata. More pastel in color with a moderately light garnet tone. Soaring aromas of cherry, raspberry, spice, balsam and nuttiness, becoming more demonstrative over time in the glass. More red-fruited in a mid weight plus, seductively elegant style that literally dances across the palate. The silk pajama texture creates the impression of grace and splendor, while the expansive finish resonates lip-smacking spicy goodness. There are notable tannins in the background, most certainly from the high percentage of new oak, but these tannins showed more amelioration when the wine was tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. This wine went from great to exceptional over night. 96. Analemma Wines, Columbia Gorge, Oregon Analemma co-farms the Oak Ridge Vineyard, planted in 1984, with owners Thomas and Marlene Woodward. The vineyard is organically certified and dry-farmed. The vineyard sits in close proximity to Atavius Vineyard, another source for Analemma Pinot Noir. A 100% whole cluster Atavius Vineyard Pinot Noir will be reviewed later when a large number of 100% whole cluster Pinot Noirs will be tasted. Owner Steven Thompson has a vast experience in winemaking including Cayuse Vineyards in Walla Walla, Washington, and New Zealand’s Craggy Range and Seresin Estate. The winery’s Cellar Door is open Friday-Sunday from April 1 to October 31. Visit www.analemmawines.com. 2014 Analemma Oak Ridge Vineyard Columbia Gorge Pinot Noir 13.8% alc., 300 cases, $32. Organic grapes were fermented with a majority of whole cluster in stainless steel open-top tanks. The wine was aged on its lees for 16 months in neutral barriques and concrete.
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