Peter's Travel Diary - Indonesia Peter Dickinson* Zoos and Collections visited in Indonesia even outstanding condition. Their bleak accommodation is Ragunan Zoo (Jakarta) spotlessly clean and their diet is good but this is no life. Schmutzer Primate Center Some have been housed like this for seven years! And Seaworld Indonesia there is no end in site for this purgatory. Ulla is naturally Taman Safari Indonesia very frustrated and angry....and very stressed at the situation Bandung Zoo she finds her animals in. She needs help, she wants help Baturraden Zoo and worries constantly as to what will happen when she is Banjarnegara Zoo no longer there. Gembira Loka Zoo (Yogyajakarta) Solo Zoo Ulla is trying her best for her animals. She supports them Semarang Zoo with her own cash, she even has her own small team of Surabaya Zoo keepers without whom she could never manage. Ulla’s zoo is a zoo within a zoo. The public do not get to see the Thursday 15th June 2006 miserable conditions in which her animals live. No, the Jakarta is a huge great city, massive, noisy and polluted. public see the Orangutans in the ‘Schmutzer Primate The Ragunan Zoo is right next to the bus station. Big Center’ (the other zoo within the zoo - more on this later) impressive entrance with more than one ticket booth. Inside which must have amongst the very best Orangutan there are numerous paths and roads. Most are in good enclosures in the world. I have seen none better anywhere. repair. There is a mix of well-maintained gardens and Ulla believes her animals should be here or in broadly rough forest. The cages and enclosures are well spaced similar accommodation. She also believes that when her within a huge area. There is so much more that could be close friend Mrs Schmutzer donated the millions for the built without straining land resources. Most of the cages Primate Center that a percentage was intended specifically have green, hand painted signs. Most of these are correct, for this purpose. It doesn’t look like it is going to happen or nearly so. On the whole a complete overhaul of the anytime soon if ever. I don’t pretend to understand the signage is needed. Ideal opportunity to add maps, colour politics involved here or the potential or actual clash of and a bit more information. personalities. There are a lot of old cages which have seen better days What I do know and do understand as a zoo man of thirty but are still in use. I daresay they may have held different eight years standing is that these animals should not, must species in the past. Those for the leopards are faced with not remain in these totally inadequate conditions. Ulla heavy ‘prison’ bars. Inside there is a moat cum swimming needs money, she needs help through a charity. I know pool and a sloping rock back. I thought these were quite members of numerous animal charities and other good. A bit of tarting up and glass to replace the bars and organisations including , BOS, IPPL, Born Free Foundation, they could be very nice indeed. WSPSA, WildAid read this digest. So dig in, don’t believe me, investigate for yourselves, contact Ulla, do something. The reptile house was quite good and the aquarium too. A Don’t leave these unfortunate creatures in this appalling bit more planting up on the aquarium backs would really accommodation. make them better. An assessment of the available reptile house space is called for. The soft shell turtle is in a Any zoos listening? What about the multitude of other hopelessly inadequate enclosure. The Reticulated Python animal charities? If anybody has any ideas about returning here is the biggest I have seen anywhere. It could swallow these animals to the wild, forget it. The wild is disappearing me whole. The signage in this area was much better at a rate of knots and there must be over a thousand though there was some incorrect spelling and information. Orangutans dotted around Indonesia in rescue facilities, The old primate cages were very old fashioned. They were the famous ‘sanctuaries’. Some of these I am told are definitely built to last and don’t look to be going to fall down housing ‘their’ animals in conditions similar to those of the soon. Lots of single monkeys amongst which there was animals kept by Ulla. They certainly don’t need more Proboscis, Silver leaf, De Brazza, Macaca tonkeana, Macaca animals dumping on them. Its rather like this stupid protest heckii, Macaca brunesceri and more. in Thailand against elephants being shipped to Australia. I mean what is better, the cushy caring zoo or a Thai forestry I had only spent a couple of hours in the zoo before I called camp, the wild is out of the question. I know which I would on Ulrike Freifrau von Mengden. This remarkable elderly go for. Prussian lady has been living in a small cottage in the centre of the zoo for more than fifty years. During this time Apart from a couple of brief tours of various bits of the zoo she has been caring for Orangutans and a multitude of with Ulla in her golfcart I spent the afternoon with her at her other creatures. Her companions today are two dogs, cottage. We were joined later by her friend Barbara and had numerous cats, a free ranging Black Hornbill and a parrot a late lunch cum tea together. It was starting to get dark so bald as to be species unrecognisable! Oh and yes, when I took my leave of Ulla and Barbara. seventeen or so Orangutans. These are lovingly maintained in the most horrific accommodation. Some are incapable of * Founder/Editor, Zoo New Digest and Zoo Biology Network, standing to full height or stretching out. All are in beautiful, Chester, UK. Email: [email protected] Friday 16th June 2006 was in awe. The gorillas looked great. Really happy. This is I got to the zoo just before nine and started initially to move as all enclosures should be. Not very far behind in terms of through it logically but soon realised a zig zag approach wonderfulness were the Orangutan enclosures. I am was going to cover more ground quicker. There really is so uncertain about the value of the ‘Ghost tunnel’ approach to much to see. Can you imagine 29 Cassowaries of 3 viewing. There must have been forethought to its species, or was it four or even five? It is at such times I wish construction. I would have liked to monitor and assess the I had a decent camera and that the birds would actually visitors reactions but there were so very few about. I found stand still. What about a herd of 21 Babirusa Fantastic to a wallet on one of the paths so there was somebody watch. I do hope that there is some breeding management somewhere. In the ‘ghost tunnel’ there was a horrific and going on. Wasted otherwise. There were big herds of deer very graphic hand painted poster depicting the the threats too. Axis kuhli, Cervus timorensis moluccensis, Sumatran to Orangutans. I’m all for shock tactics but this startled me. Sambar and at least another four species. Held separately, Skulls, logging, pickled babies, circuses, vivisection, men some in paddocks which you could fit some British zoos having sex with Orangutans! What? I must have been into. Lots of bear pits. All horrible though it was obvious that leading a very sheltered life. I suppose I was as much a lot of effort had been put into keeping them occupied. surprised to see the depiction as having to entertain the obscene thought even for a microsecond. I looked at the The area covered by the zoo is immense and yet there is scene several times to see if I was seeing what I thought I still plenty of space available, lots of it. If some serious was seeing. I was. The Orangutan enclosures contained collection planning was implemented then there could be very happy busy active animals. They were the best I have more. This place could really make a serious and important seen for the species. The whole set up is complemented contribution to breeding programmes. the by its excellent gardens and labelled trees, security and education centre. This is great, interesting and fun. Right now it isn’t, it is all willy nilly. They really don’t need, Apart from the graphics there are numerous life size the world does not need, more unmanaged tigers of individually garishly painted Orangutans. I would love to uncertain parents (or any white tigers at all). The same own one. If I had somewhere to keep it, that is. Whilst I was goes for the deer and much else. Serious management in the centre I saw Dr. Willie Smits but I didn’t know it was could halve or even quarter food bills and other costs and him till after the event (I had been told he was on make everything so much better. Why am I going on about Kalimantan) so I didn’t introduce myself. If I consider the this. Well to me it looks like this wonderful collection is just centre to be separate zoo to Ragunan (and I think I should) starting down that steep decline and if I am wrong then then it rates very highly with me. It is outstanding in many sorry but it won’t be long. ways and is amongst the best all round primate collections I have ever seen.