AMANBAGH Excursions Bhangarh Twelve kilometres from Amanbagh, the wonderful, intriguing ruined city of Bhangarh is a medieval site of great archaeological – and folkloric – importance, its splendid ruins widely believed to be haunted. Built in the late 1500s by Jaipur royal Diwan Madho Singh – younger brother of Maharaja Man Singh, Akbar the Great's general – this now uninhabited city once teemed with magnificent bazaars, a palace, gardens, temples and bathing pools. Legend has it that, a generation after its completion, it was deserted overnight after being cursed by an evil court magician, Selu Sewra, who had unsuccessfully attempted to seduce Bhangarh’s virtuous and beautiful queen. Today Bhangarh is a National Heritage Site and though it is often hailed as one of India's top-ten sites, very few tourists manage to include it in their itinerary. Mornings and late afternoons are a perfect time to visit this deserted city – an amazing setting for photography, meditation and yoga. We can organise visits to Bhangarh, either to tour the ruins or to practise yoga on one of the temple platforms at dawn with a vegetarian breakfast. Transport is via car or jeep; alternatively, you could combine trekking with Bhangarh as your final destination. It is also a favourite winter location for lunchtime picnics. Ajabgarh village, fort, temple and mosque Ajabgarh’s finest attractions are its fort and its old temple. Dedicated to Shri Raghunathji, the temple was built in 1635, and features a 24-pillar open courtyard and a marble façade. This temple once housed idols of Lord Rama and Goddess Sita, bejewelled with precious stones that fell victim to thieves some time ago. The temple and fort were connected by an underground passage originally designed for use by royal ladies so they could enter the temple in complete privacy. The mazaar (mosque) on the way to Ajabgarh was erected in the 17th century in memory of Baba Kapoor Shah. The great Sufi mystic devoted his life to meditation, to Allah and to the welfare of society. His disciples still visit his favourite meditation spot, a small chhatri at the top of a hill, to practise the peaceful art of inner reflection. We can organise excursions to Ajabgarh during the day – on foot, by camel, or in our open-top jeeps. One of our three morning walks takes guests through Ajabgarh village, where they will meet the locals and gain an insight into rural life here. Alternatively, experience Ajabgarh by candlelight over a memorable dinner of Rajasthani fare. Pratapgarh fort and village Pratapgarh is a small village about 40 minutes from Amanbagh, at the foot of the Aravalli hills. Perched on the edge of the hill, the deserted Pratapgarh fort dates back to the rule of the first Maharaja of Alwar, Pratap Singh, who built this fort in 1775. A high boundary wall was erected around the entire village to protect it from attacks from neighbouring maharajas. A hike to the fort will reward you with amazing views of the village and surrounding countryside. Explore the old buildings, view the only remaining canon that was used to defend the honour of the king and visit the colourful temple that was part of the fort. We can arrange yoga or meditation here, in an open chamber with a beautiful painted ceiling. On the western side of the village is the famous Radha Swami temple and a small ashram. The temple houses more than 5,000 ancient books and manuscripts, including letters believed to have been written by Maharaja Pratap Singh. A lively maskeshift market lines the colourful main street of the village; in its older quarters, merchants sit on wide varandas, smoking their hookha pipes, patiently waiting for customers. Somsagar Lake Reached by a dramatic walk through a narrow gorge, Somsagar Lake was built in 1598 at the time of Emperor Akbar’s visit to Ajabgarh, its purpose to provide a watering hole for the surrounding wildlife and birds. Huge blocks of marble have been polished over the centuries by villagers and cattle accessing the lake and valley above. A shrine believed to have been built at the time of the lake’s creation still stands. Sagar ki Bahu, meaning ‘the lake’s bride’, was established as a reminder of the Hindu belief of life in all forms and the emphasis on awareness of the link between man and nature. We organise guided walks that can culminate in meditation and yoga and/or breakfast next to the lake. A relatively easy walk, it takes approximately 45 minutes to reach the lake from Amanbagh. One of our favourite treks continues past Somasagar, crossing through the valley to the traditional Meena village of Kala Para where a jeep will collect you for the return trip. The complete journey takes approximately 3.5 hours and is comfortable for an average level of fitness. Sturdy walking shoes, sensible clothes and a sunhat are essential. The King’s Throne One of our more unusual discoveries is the stone throne carved out of the rockface on a hillside just behind Amanbagh. According to our neighbours, this throne was used in the late 19th/early 20th century by the Maharaja of Alwar on his tiger-hunting expeditions in the area. We’re not sure you can call it hunting, but apparently the Maharaja’s servants would tether a goat in the clearing while he sat on his throne, gun in hand, waiting for tigers and leopards to creep down the cliff faces in search of their prey. Our neighbours allow us to walk up through their small village then through the valley before a short climb up to the stone throne. You can walk there with a guide from the hotel, or you can travel part way by jeep and walk the remainder of the way through the fields and forest. The King’s Throne is one of our regular early-morning complimentary walking routes. Khushi, our young, enthusiastic trekking assistant, lives in this small hamlet with his extended family. He and his family will be happy to give you an insight into local farming life. This is an easy stroll, apart from the final scramble up the rocky ridge to sit on the King’s Throne. The return walking time from Amanbagh is around two hours. Do wear sensible shoes and don’t forget sun protection. Cow dust tour An all-time favourite with Amanbagh guests, this tour is a great way to experience rural Rajasthan. Head out in one of our jeeps for a tour of the surrounding villages during peak hour – the time of the afternoon when our neighbours herd their goats, cows and buffalos home after a day’s grazing. The locals will wave and the children will run after the car and you may even be invited for chai in one of their homes. We openly encourage you to communicate and have chai with our local village friends – for many, it is a profound and inspiring experience. We recommend this late-afternoon excursion any time of the year. Don’t forget your camera and please don’t demean our neighbours by offering them anything other than your warm smiles and genuine respect. They consider you an honoured guest of their village. You are welcome to support our neighbours by way of a donation back at Amanbagh. Your Personal Managers can provide you with more details about our community programmes. This tour can also take place at sunrise, when the world wakes up. You will smell the cooking fires being lit, see the goats coming out of their overnight shelters, and watch children pumping water from the village wells – often taking a very cold alfresco shower. Twilight cocktails and dining under the stars Discover the perfect spot to enjoy twilight cocktails or a romantic dinner with a loved one or to celebrate a special occasion with family and friends. Dinner under the stars can take on many different forms at Amanbagh – a rooftop chhatri, a private pool pavilion, a terrace or an all-white evening on the polo lawn. Allow us to create a memorable experience. Picnics and off-site dining experiences The cooler temperatures in winter and late autumn are ideal for daytime outings. Lazing on cushions in a historic chhatri overlooking the Ajabgarh valley, or under a banyan tree on the lawns of Bhangarh, are all options that you may like to try during your Amanbagh visit. Your Personal Managers will help you decide on the location, then leave the rest to us. Sit back, relax and know that you are reliving a part of history as you dine or picnic in style. Evenings at Amanbagh and in the Ajabgarh valley are magical, especially if you are fortunate enough to be staying with us around the full moon. A truly memorable way to experience rural Rajasthan by night is to dine alfresco in the valley – we have a number of locations to choose from. With hundreds of flickering candles and diyas to light the evening, the wafting sounds of a flute player and a personal chef from Amanbagh to cook for you, we promise you an unforgettable evening of regal splendour. On cooler evenings, we transform our rooftop chhatri for private dining. Jhilmil Bada Transport yourself to the outdoor feasting of royal hunting parties of old at Jhilmil Bada. This clearing, reached by a short walk through the bushes, is where guests can watch the chefs in action, preparing local Indian flavours the traditional way using clay open-fire ovens and traditional barbeque grills. The inspiration behind Jhilmil Bada dates back to the 19th century, when the dense jungles of Sariska provided abundant game for lavish royal hunting expeditions.