IN ASSOCIATION WITH CÂMARA MUNICIPAL DE LISBOA Out there Out there Beginner’s survival guide

Greet people with two kisses, forget the high heels, dodge the queues and bypass restaurants with food pictures by the front door. Here are our best tips to avoid tourist traps. You’re welcome.

We speak the metro network, Don’t take just a creation is tricky terrain, have we been English whether you want risks: book to lure tourists with the city’s duped? As a rule of (and a bit to take a train or a table in. Creative, famous seven thumb, if the menu of everything an elevator – you’ll The recent boom but a deception hills and slippery is actually good, it else) avoid long queues. of trendy spaces nonetheless, so be Portuguese doesn’t need to be Portuguese people and experiences, aware, especially in pavement making paraded so much. are known for Expect kisses particularly in the the city centre, the the walking Keep this in mind their linguistic The Portuguese restaurant scene, most fertile ground experience (ideal when walking abilities, not to love kissing, and has made Lisbon’s for these traps. for discovering around Baixa, mention their cheek-kissing is gastronomy even every nook and Belém and other hospitality. You’re very much alive more appealing. Choose your cranny) into a tourist hotspots. very likely to find in Lisbon. So be With a caveat: if fado house real challenge. people who speak prepared to greet you’re not quick carefully Your breathing Don’t pay English better than (and be greeted by) enough, you’ll risk Fado is Portugal’s capacity may be ridiculous average, and maybe strangers with a not getting a table traditional music – tested to the max amounts even some French kiss on each cheek in the majority of nothing new here but, on the bright of money (especially the (or just on one, in popular venues – and it suddenly side, the city is for pressed older generations), posher settings). (and the risk is real became cool again basically an open- bay leaves or pretty good every night of the in recent years air gym. Bring your It’s been sold all Spanish. But don’t No one will week, by the way). but know that not comfiest walking over Baixa for push your luck – really get mad Do your homework every venue is shoes or you’ll years. It’s one of we probably won’t if you (meaning, read worth your time, regret it. And don’t the most expensive speak Armenian. arrive late Time Out), and especially ones even think about seasonings you Although a lot has whatever you do, geared towards heels. can get your hands Avoid the changed over the book a table. tourists. We’re on in the city. queues years, including an here to help: in Beware of the They’ll tell you it’s by topping increased attention Very typical? this edition, you’ll menus with hashish, it’ll really up your to schedules, Think again find a guide of food photos look like hashish, travelcard Portuguese There’s one trend the best spots to It’s a timeless and but it isn’t hashish. in the metro punctuality is still you should pay listen to fado. Just universal classic: Which isn’t a With a Viva card, far from the British particular attention fast-forward to the the plague of problem, because you can choose standard. The to: the shops and Music section. menus filled with you’re not one to the “zapping” tolerance is usually restaurants that photos of dishes, go around buying option and travel up to half an hour are supposedly Bring comfy whether inside or hashish. But if you across nine types (if not more), so traditional, but shoes for the out by the door, were, we’d advise of public transport don’t be surprised actually aren’t. seven hills is one we always you not to accept on one travel pass. if you find yourself Since 1872? Lisbon’s beauty strongly believe we these offers. They’d Top up with the waiting because Very typical? In is unbeatable on can avoid, yet how only serve to amount you need you arrived on time some cases, the Instagram, but many times, when season your steak –

PHOTOGRAPHY: ARLINDO PHOTOGRAPHY: CAMACHO at any machine in like a Swiss clock. “tradition” is remember that this in tourist-mode, at best. ■

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 4 5 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon ai15713244343_investlisboa_timeout.pdf 1 17/10/2019 16:00

Lisbon for Visitors Web Summit is a special edition of Time Out Portugal in partnership with Câmara Municipal de Lisboa Avenida da Liberdade 10, 4.º 1250-144 Lisboa Tel: 21 120 2970 www.timeout.com/lisbon Camone in Published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out Digital Ldt This edition was produced by Time Out Atelier Director João Pedro Oliveira Main features and editing Hugo Torres Design Filipa Gregório No, there’s no mistake in the title. It’s spelt exactly how it’s supposed Design support Leonel Sousa Pinto Ilustrations Tiago Galo to be: camone. What’s a camone? Well... basically, you. The word Translation and editorial support Madalena Moreira de Sá derives from the expression “come on” (that’s actually how you and Paula Guimarães pronounce it) and originally refers to an individual of English origin Time Out Lisbon Editorial or one that expresses themselves in English. Eventually, however, Deputy Editors-in-Chief Sara Sanz Pinto and Vera Moura it became an actual word. Nowadays, you can find it in any good Digital director Steffany Casanova Editors Hugo Torres (executive), Portuguese dictionary, and it applies to any visitor. This edition of Cláudia Lima Carvalho (digital), Inês Garcia and Luís Filipe Rodrigues Time Out Lisbon was especially curated for Web Summit. Which is to Journalists Clara Silva, Eurico de Barros, Francisca Dias Real, Raquel Dias da say, it is a warm welcome to all camones flocking to the city for one Silva, Renata Lima Lobo and Tiago Marques Neto of the biggest technology events in the world. It is an essential guide Editorial support Helena Soares Archive Rui Rato to what you should see, taste, explore and try if you’re in town for just Graphic Design Cláudia de Almeida, Inês Martins a few days. But, most importantly, it’s a showcase of Lisbon in all its and Mariana Soares Photography creative, innovative and entrepreneurial splendour, celebrating it as Duarte Drago, Inês Félix the ever-growing, multicultural hub it has always been. A place woven and Manuel Manso Video Mariana Valle Lima from a strong history and a zest for the future, brought to life by a Advertising unique fusion of natives and people who, despite not being from here, [email protected] Director Duarte Guerreiro have chosen to be. People who lend life, talent and pieces of the world +351 21 120 2975 Marketing & Events to our city’s cultural fabric. People like you. Welcome to Lisbon. Director Diana Martin Producer Patrícia Barbosa Finance Manager Michèle Boullier Faro Helpdesk Catarina Novais Time Out Portugal General Manager Duarte Vicente CONTENTS Time Out Group CEO Julio Bruno NIF: 513739157 Empresa Jornalística nº 223753 Registo de Título nº 125225 Production Printing Sogapal Nº de Depósito Legal: 264155/07 Print Run 75.000 Start me up Lisbon 2020 See you in 2028 While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the How Lisbon is becoming a Lisbon will be the 2020 European A glimpse of the future in 3D publisher cannot accept responsibility significant innovation centre and Green Capital. Next time we images. How we expect Lisbon will for any errors it may contain. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may attracting people and talent from meet, the city will have changed. look like in the last (scheduled) be reproduced, stored in a retrieval Hopefully for the better. year of Web Summit in Portugal. system, or transmitted in any form or by all over the world. any means, electronic, mechanical, PAGE 8 PAGE 30 PAGE 36 photocopying, recording or otherwise, without permission of Time Out Portugal and Time Out Digital Ltd. Time Out Market Lisboa â FEATURES AND REGULARS General Manager Ana Alcobia tel: +351 21 346 0333 4 Survival guide 6 What’s going on? 42 Eat like a local 46 New Restaurants in town 50 The eat list 54 Time Out Market 60 Lisbon Wine 64 Best terraces 64 The must see list 70 Historical shops 74 Night Summit 76 Best bars 78 Best clubs 79 Live jazz music 80 LGBT+ 82 Key Information

Discover more things to do while you’re in town at timeout.com/websummit WHILE YOU’RE

Belle and Sebastian

November 5 IN TOWN Moonspell Until NOT TO BE MISSED Concert January Are you a fan of gothic metal? Pop Art Stars If so, head to Capitólio to watch Pop Art’s Fab 4 can be seen Moonspell, Portugal’s biggest at Torreão Poente, Antiga goth metal band. Even if you Cordoaria Nacional: Andy don’t understand the lyrics, Warhol, Jasper Johns, Robert you’ll be surrounded by the Rauschenberg and Roy The Lumineers band’s greatest fans: they will Lichtenstein. They are joined soon be taking a break from November 7 November 9 by David Salle, Félix González concerts, with their album Torres, Jean Michel Basquiat, 1755, after more than two Al Di Meola Harry Potter: Jeff Koons, Julian Schnabel decades of shows. They will be and Keith Haring, in over 122 November joined on stage by the Greek Concert The music of works of art, available until band, Rotting Christ. à Cineteatro One of the greatest jazz players January, 5th, 2020. à Torreão 1, 2, 8 and 9 Capitólio, Parque Mayer, Avenida. Tue of the last 25 years and with the Hogwarts Poente - Cordoaria Nacional, Belém. €10 7.30pm. €25. most awards from Guitar Player Fans of the J. K. Rowling Maxime Magazine. Back in Portugal, saga will not want to miss this time with Opus, his latest this interactive concert. The Cabaret Show November 6 studio work, plus Beatles audience will be sorted into We know you’re here to hear classics from the 2007 movie houses by the sorting hat and about the future but how about Orpheus Across the Universe. à Centro will get to know the world’s a trip into the past? At Maxime Cultural de Belém, Praça do Império, Belém. most famous school of magic, Oct 31 > Nov 3 November 1 restaurant and bar, Fridays and and Eurydice Thu 9pm. €20-€40. while trying to stop the dark Saturdays are cabaret, burlesque lord. All through an acoustic Olhares do The Lumineers and circus nights. For almost Opera version of Camerata 9 ¾. à If you are in town ahead of the three hours you can enjoy this See the first opera of November 7 Centro Cultural Olga Cadaval, Sintra. Sat Mediterrâneo Web Summit, check out the vintage show, some snacks and a the classical period, and 9.30pm. €10. This is the sixth edition of Women’s North-American folk band, here champagne flute, or a surprising simultaneously discover The Divine Andy Warhol Film Festival, back at Cinema São to introduce their new album, III. four course dinner, with drinks. the Portuguese Symphonic Jorge, Avenida da Liberdade, to The latest full length album by à Maxime, Praça da Alegria 58. Fri-Sat Orchestra and the Teatro Comedy Until continue to show that women are Wesley Schultz, Jeremias Fraites, 8.30pm. €20-€65. Nacional São Carlos chorus. Neil Hannon’s band is back Until killing it in film, from directing, to Stelth Ulvang e Ben Wahamaki Sung in the original Italian in Portugal to introduce the November 17 production assistance. The festival’s has nine tracks that tell a story in version and as a concert, this successor to their acclaimed February programme includes fifty odd films, three chapters. à Campo Pequeno. Fri Until opera is part of the celebrations album Foreverland. The British Looking In an exhibition and two concerts. 9pm. From €25 marking 100 years since the band’s new album is scheduled Catch the train at Cais do Playmode à Cinema São Jorge, Avenida da Liberdade 175. November 3 birth of Portuguese poet Sophia for release in June of next year. Sodré and enjoy the trip to I’m sure your plans to visit Thu-Sun varying schedules. de Mello Breyner Andresen. à à Aula Magna, Alameda da Universidade, Cascais along the river and Lisbon include MAAT – November 1-3 Lisbon Week Teatro Nacional de São Carlos, Rua Serpa Campo Grande. Thu 9pm. From €23. then the ocean. Head to Casa Museum of Art, Architecture Every year, Lisbon Week shows Pinto, Chiado. Wed 8pm. €10-€40. das Histórias Paula Rego, well and Technology. Don’t just Maxime Cabaret Show Lisbon Vinyl off a different neighbourhood worth it for the architecture take a selfie with the museum in Lisbon. This year, Ajuda was alone, but mainly to get to as background: go inside Market the lucky lottery winner, with November 6 know the life and work of one and explore the exhibition For three days, Mercado de Santa exhibitions, music, art and of Portugal’s greatest living “Playmode”, a reflection on Clara, right next to the Lisbon unprecedented visits to private Belle and painters. Until November 17, art and video games which flea market, is home to this vinyl buildings, normally off limits to you can see the exhibition looks at evading reality, market, featuring hundreds of the public. Between November Sebastian “Looking In”. à Casa das Histórias social construction and revival records which you can 1 and 3, visit Palácio da Ajuda Scots Belle and Sebastian Paula Rego, Cascais. €5 transformation. à MAAT - Museu take home instead of the usual and be dazzled by the back office started playing together in de Arte, Arquitetura e Tecnologia, Belém. souvenirs. There’s no entry fee to official dinners, an off-limits 1996 and have been together €5 (museum entrance fee with access to but you should get there as early tower and a garden called Jardim ever since. The indie-pop duo is all exhibitions) as possible to get the best deals das Damas. à Palácio Nacional da Ajuda. back in Lisbon for an intimate Paula Rego and find rare gems. à Mercado de Fri-Sun 11.30am. €7. concert in Aula Magna. à Aula Santa Clara. Fri 4pm-10pm, Sat 9am-8pm and Magna, Alameda da Universidade, Campo Sun 10am-6pm. Grande. Wed 9pm. €24-€35.

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 6 7 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon Start me up Lisbon is becoming a significant innovation centre. The city has never been home to so many startups, incubators, acceleration programmes and coworking spaces. Digital nomads are here to stay, and universities are LISBON IS VERY fashionable right now roles is to include foreign entrepreneurs and it is totally our fault. And we aren’t in our ecosystem,” says Miguel Fontes, luring in an increasing number of foreign talking about tourists and custard tarts referencing the programme Launch In covered in icing sugar and cinnamon Lisbon. “These sessions cover taxes, the students. Lisbon is hosting Web Summit for (yummy, right?). More along the lines of labour market, visas, incentives and real the next ten years – and for good reason. innovation, creativity, entrepreneurship, estate, but we also organize events so that risk and ambition. Ten years ago, Lisboners foreign entrepreneurs can be introduced were called to vote on the city’s budget, to relevant players in our ecosystem: other and out of 200 participating projects, entrepreneurs, investors and incubators.” they prioritised a dozen. One was a This ecosystem has in fact been brought business incubator. Startup Lisboa was under one brand, Made of Lisboa, the role born in 2012 and rapidly became the of which is to strengthen this interaction main stimulus behind new tech, retail and encourage innovation in Lisbon. Hub and tourism ventures. “We were the Criativo do Beato is a long awaited project first incubator in the city to be set up and another step in the right direction. unrelated to universities, focused on Startup Lisbon will also expand to this new helping entrepreneurs from all different location, enabling it to incubate bigger backgrounds and, after almost eight years, sized companies. Currently up and fully we have an absolutely unique network running, Centro de Inovação da Mouraria, of partners, mentors, investors and, focuses on music, food, design, arts and obviously, entrepreneurs,” says Miguel crafts startups, providing four fablabs Fontes, executive director of Startup prototype building. In this issue, you’ll see Lisboa. The total investment raised by how good Lisbon has been to its startups, the 400 businesses currently or formerly featuring eight businesses which are about to housed in two renovated buildings on take flight and five global successes. We will Rua da Prata is over 150 million euros. also meet four digital nomads; we’ve invited Applications open on a quarterly basis them in, even though they don’t seem to and are assessed by specialists. Only 7% play by the same rules. One of their many get a spot but diversity is guaranteed, with cultural difference is their exotic habit of people from over 40 countries. Anyone praising Lisbon. We’re letting them stay. To

PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPHY: GALO TIAGO ILLUSTRATION: can apply. “One of our fundamental each his own.

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 8 9 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon Eight businesses about to take flight “Our problem isn’t clients,

If it’s for tomorrow, you could it’s talent. We users is 130 thousand, equally very well do it today. António don’t sell more distributed between Portugal, Variações was a visionary; this the rest of the European Union verse, which he wrote for one because we and South America (though of the songs on his album Anjo don’t have more the rest of the world already da Guarda (“guardian angel”), makes up a significant 10%). almost 40 years ago, fits the product to sell.” “We work with three major technological hegemony we groups: Brazilians moving to live in today perfectly. Planning Portugal, for whom language matters. If you want to be at the Oliveira states. “Our aim is to and culture are fundamental right place, at the right time, create tools that allow people to matters; Latin Americans moving setting career goals is half the look for jobs in an efficient way, to Spain; and those moving to work. This premise moved and then be entirely in control rich countries and seeking to Pedro Oliveira (33 years old) of their own career. We want to make a lot of money”, as José and José Paiva (51 years old) be the best team in the world Paiva notes. Landing.Jobs works to launch Landing.Jobs, a at that.” And it’s going well. with Iberian, German, Dutch Eattasty2 platform for job opportunities “We’ve matched over a thousand and British companies – Brexit Who likes to come home after a “We don’t have to send out in the tech industry, back in people”, José Paiva (CEO) says, forced a revision of their strategy long day at work, only to worry 2014. It first worked by friend revealing that the two founders’ for the UK and propelled the about tomorrow’s lunch? Maybe 100 different orders but recommendation (the job plan is to double the company’s creation of Landing.Work, a half a dozen idealists. Most of us, promoter would receive a one- revenue every year and to beat company spinoff targeting working for a paycheck, just want rather one order for 100 thousand-euro reward for each 100 million euros by 2024 – then contractors and specific projects, to eat well, inexpensively and meals. And we do it ahead hired candidate); it later adopted sell the company. And their rather than conventional jobs. without wasting too much time. the current matchmaking model. targets are so far being met. Their “Our problem isn’t clients, it’s Until recently, there were just two of time without having “Jobseekers can apply to work success in Portugal is undeniable. talent. Our company doesn’t alternatives to a packed lunch: actual orders.” for companies and companies According to Pedro Oliveira, sell more because it doesn’t restaurants close to work (which can apply for specific candidates. “there are 110 thousand people have more product to sell.” In can be repetitive and expensive) But you’re always anonymous. in the IT industry in Portugal, this case, the product is people, and getting food delivered, compete with regular restaurant Candidates have complete and we are quickly approaching who go through a screening and which could involve paying service”. Orders have to be made control of their job search. This 50% of that, which is great”. assessment process to ensure that expensive delivery fees. Rui and finalised before restaurant sums up Landing.Jobs”, Pedro The total number of platform the platform aggregates the best Rocha Costa and Orlando Lopes opening hours. This enables them professionals, and so they can, in worked together for a digital to get better organised and make turn, have realistic perceptions marketing company in Lisbon, better use of the kitchen during of their market value. Companies and were often faced with this otherwise empty periods. “So, 1 are also analysed. Pedro Oliveira same problem. As was everyone on the one hand if we want 100 assures: “all companies we work else in the office. They started meals we don’t have to send out with are legitimate. We validate to look for a solution that would 100 different orders but rather them all, one by one. We can be practical both in terms of one order for 100 meals. And we guarantee that all job openings laziness and cost: a packed lunch do it ahead of time. We take on the there are completely legitimate”. would have to arrive at the office risk of ordering without having The market appreciates the ready to eat and cheap enough actual orders”. Says Rui Rocha curation. to make it doable on an everyday Costa. Waste levels are under basis. “Most of the competition 3% and the food goes directly to we looked at outside of Portugal ReFood, a Portuguese non-profit were focused on dinner and fighting food waste, along with all one-off behaviour”, says Rui packaging collected (clean) from Rocha Costa, 41, from Vila Nova customers for re-use. Eattasty was de Famalicão. “How could those launched in March 2016. Three business models be adapted?” and a half years later they deliver The answer was in the logistics. a thousand meals a day. They The trick would be to deliver have delivered a total of over 230 several meals to the same address thousand meals, half of which – i.e. the same company. The in 2019. Prices vary between cost issue was also approached 5.90€ and 6.90€. In the summer creatively. “Restaurants working they set up shop in Madrid and with delivery companies all raised 1.1 million euros to expand faced a similar problem: orders in Spain. “In May we were six were coming in at the same (people working at the company), time as regular rush hour meals now we are 20 and hiring, in Landing.Jobs eaten on the premises. The same Lisbon, Madrid and Vila Nova de equipment and human resource Famalicão”, where Eattasty has capacity was having to supply its headquarters. Who knew such two different sales channels. Our a tasty idea would end up in a

PHOTOGRAPHY: DUARTE DRAGO PHOTOGRAPHY: DUARTE DRAGO idea was to figure out how not to packed lunch?

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 10 11 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon Eight businesses about to take flight

HELP DESK #1 capital and business angels. “We’ve grown a lot, and we’ve HELP DESK #1 grown sustainably”, says Gonçalo Fontes. “The life of a Creating “We raised start-fup is hard. There are no easy days. But we’ve had, still a company almost 200% of Gonçalo Fortes was born in 1980, have and will have investors who Maison Loja Iniciativa Lisboa is the funding we in Évora. At age 18, he moved leverage our growth and help to Lisbon to study computer us scale appropriately”. Clients a one-stop shop to help needed.” science at Instituto Superior include BMW, Audi, Nissan, you with all the formalities Técnico. Soon after leaving Ford, Citroen, TAP Maintenance and bureaucracy of setting Nuno Markl. One of Gizmodo’s university, he set up CrazyDog, & Engineering, Hermés, Louis up a company. It offers 3 journalists was in Portugal his first software development Vuitton and Chanel. during the launch and wrote an company. He entered the world specialised counselling article about it in France. A post of startups in 2013 when he and support to investors The materialisation of video on a North American tech blog teamed up with Samuel Martins and entrepreneurs. You can game characters has been a followed. The idea boomed. It to create Prodsmart. “My father “The life of a file requests and take care recurring theme in fiction – was 2014. The collection and owned a metal works factory Pixel of many different aspects and in the dreams of humans the business were born at the and we got the idea when we startup is hard. with a soft spot for computers. end of the following year. “We realised how hard he found it to There are no of the business, such as Such was the case of Sebastião experienced an atypical growth manage production digitally, setting opening hours for Teixeira: back in 2012, after pattern: most companies grow with both ease and speed”. easy days.” retail, permits for outdoor spending the evening revisiting and then plateau; we started at Gonçalo was trying to solve this 4 advertising, or for tourist 80s video games, he fell asleep the top, so in order to reach that problem and ended up creating accommodation. and saw the light. The 39-year- same plateau we had to allow for a product which optimises old designer explains: “I had a a slight dip. The beginning was industrial production processes, à Loja de Cidadão do Saldanha dream where girls wore a specific really very strong.” Sebastião generating a lot of interest, (Mercado 31 de janeiro). type of underwear. As I had my Teixeira says that, despite the mainly from abroad. In order Rua Eng.º Vieira da Silva. computer next to me, I made a many proposals for business to define exactly what they do, +351 808 203 232. simple sketch on Photoshop of expansion they’ve been Gonçalo says: “We’re a real time [email protected] what it could look like. And I left receiving, the plan is to keep on IT system for factories, which for work”. When he got to the investing in e-commerce – even allows data collection through advertising agency he worked though Facebook’s constant mobile devices, directly on for, he shared his vision with his algorithm changes undermine Prodsmart the factory floor, generating colleagues, including Cesária the grounds on which the simple and updated reports Martins, a designer the same age. business flourished. They even and analysis on the company’s “She said it was a cool idea and attempted to export the idea to performance, thereby reducing that we should do it.” And they Hong Kong, “but it didn’t catch waste and increasing efficiency”. did. They created underwear on as well”. The Asian market They won Caixa Capital’s Caixa and swimwear pieces inspired is peculiar and requires a large Empreender Award in 2016 by pixels, designed as though investment. Maison Pixel’s main and also Microsoft Portugal’s they were weaved into an 8-bit export destinations are therefore Startup Challenge, organised in mesh. “The idea was so ludicrous The United States and Europe, partnership with the US embassy that we thought the only way though they have also delivered in Portugal, which two years to make it happen would be to Japan, South Korea, Australia, later distinguished Prodsmart through crowdfunding”, he says. Canada and South American for its “positive investment in “We didn’t even plan to start a countries. In 2018, with business the US, generating new jobs company.” But the campaign expansion in mind, they became and economic growth”. By was very successful. “We raised the first Portuguese fashion start- that time, the US fund, 500 almost 200% of the funding we up to be funded through Seedrs: Startups, had invested in the needed. We got orders from over “we sold a small equity share of Portuguese company. In 2018, fifty countries straight away, the company to a group of small the company raised 1.5 million most of them from the United investors”. But some things dollars (approximately 1.2 States, so it all spiralled up.” The remain unchanged, namely the million euros) from venture strategy included launching original creative duo responsible the crowdfunding campaign for designing the collection live on Portuguese national and the place where the latter television, on a TV show led is produced: the birthplace and by screenwriter, comedian, heart of the country’s textile

broadcaster and pop cartoonist industry, Guimarães. PHOTOGRAPHY: DUARTE DRAGO PHOTOGRAPHY: HENRIQUE CASINHAS

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 12 13 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon Eight businesses about to take flight

Ricardo Santos (26 years old, surveillance screens, or get This is their proposed solution, Porto) and Mauro Peixe (28, distracted by talking to someone. says Ricardo Santos. “We get a Setúbal) met at university “How does a chain of stores audit true picture of what’s going on, while studying for a Master’s their security personnel or their in real time, in critical points”. in Electronics and Computer security company? They hire “I’m talking about using artificial Engineering at Instituto someone to watch them. It’s the intelligence and video analysis. Superior Técnico, in 2014. They only way. But that can’t be done For example, if we’re looking immediately started working across 20 or 30 thousand stores, at a motorway, we can detect on the idea behind Heptasense, 365 days a year”, says Mauro accidents, animals, or cars driving a startup claiming to hold the Peixe, for whom traditional the wrong way. In a store, we can key to automating security, surveillance systems are of mere detect suspicious behaviour, vastly improving the efficiency forensic interest. “Security has such as someone hiding their of video surveillance in retail, to be a little more proactive. face or hiding something in their Unono “We banking, roads and even prisons. Instead of looking at the outcome clothes”. Privacy is guaranteed by Using artificial intelligence of a problem, we should try to the fact that they only work with Anyone fresh out of university identify when analysing footage, first solve it, or better still, avoid it”. metadata. “We’re interested in has asked the question: how to figure out “how people the moment. Information goes do I get in touch with the talent and behave, how their movements no further. We just need to sound companies that I want to work then take impact intentions, how it the alarm”. Mauro Peixe adds, for? The companies ask a similar affects individual behaviour “We get a true however, that this metadata can question: how do I get in touch it to the and other people”, Ricardo picture of be used to improve management with young talent yet to enter companies explains. Initially, their aim was efficiency. “If we can’t clearly the market or who haven’t to apply technology to project what’s going at identify the number and type yet stood out? Unono has the so they can management and their first client critical points.” of incidents, the time it takes to answer for both, working with 30 was BMW. But they soon realised address them and when in the day universities and 280 thousand put it to they could be more ambitious. and month they happen, it’s very students in Portugal, Spain and good use.” Security guards in stores, for difficult to implement preventive Switzerland. “We identify talent example, will sometimes ignore measures. The real aim is to stop and then take it to the companies incidents from occurring in the 5 so they can put it to good use”, first place.” Besides Portugal, explains Edgar Campos, who they operate in several European also uses a football analogy to strategy is simple but requires markets – Spain, Sweden, the UK. simplify: “It’s like we are sub hard work and determination. 6 “Our goal is to become a global 30 scouts”. “We got the idea They need to be where the talent reference in our area of expertise from the fact that young people is, speak their language, and have over the next three years”, says have a hard time positioning the right type of presence on Ricardo Santos. “We have a pretty themselves with possible social media. “With this strategy, good reputation as it is. But we employees”, he says, “it’s difficult we found it easy to get the right want to make it solid”. We’ll keep to find your dream job or your companies on our website and an eye on them. ideal company”. Candidates reach our goal”. Unono Portugal à don’t actually see any job adds, or started in January 2016. It was despair over requisites. The hard already up and running in Spain part is done by Unono. “Basically and Edgar Campos was chosen candidates submit their CVs on to head the Lisbon office, after the Unono platform and Unono working for Science 4You, back partners submit their best job in 2013. Edgar is 29 years old and offers. Our aim is to provide the from Fronteira, in Alentejo. He best possible match between the has a degree in Sociology and HR two”, says Edgar. In other words, Development from Universidad they are like Tinder (or Grindr) Complutense de Madrid for jobs and the candidate just and Universidade de Évora. does nothing. They don’t even Before coming back to Lisbon, have to swipe left. Additionally, he worked for a consulting there is no fee for the candidates. company in London. But Lisbon That is on the employer side. is unique, he says, “with over 300 After all, who’s the talent here? days of sunshine a year, which And Unono is not complaining: makes it attractive to just about “We’ve grown every year, both in everyone”. “Plus there is the food, terms of team and turnover. And also much appreciated”. “Lastly, we’ll double last year’s figures by the fact that Lisbon is now ‘the the end of the current year”. The capital of Europe’ or ‘the window

to Europe’ and is considerably Heptasense cheaper than any of the other cities in similar positions”. Know a more inviting city? We’ll match

or beat it. PHOTOGRAPHY: CHRISTIAM BUSTAMANTE PHOTOGRAPHY: INÊS FÉLIX

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 14 15 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon Eight businesses about to take flight Doppio HELP DESK #2 Koala very aggressive sales methods HELP DESK #3 The forefront of computer based on your answers.” The from Lisbon where Jeferson in the sector”. With a degree games is in Lisbon. Doppio has two co-founders wanted to test Valadares, 44 years old, moved in economics from ISEG, dropped physical controllers the product before talking to in the summer of 2018. “I had Seeking Bruno saw this as a business in favour of voice operated possible investors. The results lived in San Francisco before, partners & 8 opportunity. Teaming up with Getting a visa devices, using Amazon Alexa couldn’t have been more and when I decided to start the João Ramos, they opened Koala (should you need one) and Google Assistant, for positive and in July they closed company, I realized that it would investments Rest on March 17th, 2017, example. Its first game, “The a round of investment, totalling be difficult to do so because of Rest World Sleep Day. The general Are you an entrepreneur Vortex” was launched in 2018. a million euros, with Amazon, the high cost. We researched Go straight to Invest Lisboa, idea is to “help Portuguese who intends to develop your A year later “The 3%” became Google and Portugal Ventures several European cities (London, Lisbon’s investment What product do we use the most people sleep better, in an easy startup in Portugal, even available, a videogame version on board. Doppio operates Stockholm, Helsinki, Berlin, throughout our lives? Think and financially accessible way”. promotion agency. Invest “All modesty though you might not have of the first Netflix miniseries Paris, Barcelona...) and ended up Lisboa is a one-stop shop about it. No, it’s not your comfy “By bypassing the middlemen produced in Brazil. That’s deciding for Portugal”. The secret jeans. Or your mobile phone. aside, the and producing in Portugal, we started your business yet? for companies, investors where Jeferson Valadares “We saw the is in the balance between cost The answer is hidden under Portuguese are able to provide a high-end Have you already launched a is from. More precisely, he’s and quality talent available in the and entrepreneurs your sheets: your mattress. mattress with a fair price”, he startup in your own country from Rio de Janeiro, where he opportunity Portuguese capital. “Although looking to invest or set up The impact on our health and have a says. Mattresses are delivered but want to set it up here? co-founded his first startup in Portugal does not have much wellbeing is a lot greater than we directly from the factory to the for voice first their business in Lisbon. fantastic Are you from outside the 2000, Jynx Playware, one of the tradition in game development, They offer personalised, imagine. The problem is a good customer’s home. And, “the first Brazilian studios to create as our area is very new, there are mattress is expensive. If you customer has a 100-night trial European Economic Area games in confidential and free profile to video games. He was just out of no specialists anywhere.” This buy a car you can test drive it but period to make sure this is the & Switzerland? If so, you’re university (where he studied the gaming wager seems to have paid off and support, which includes no store is going to let you sleep work in right Koala mattress for them. eligible to apply for the computer science), and started industry they are opening a new office in providing advice, over, and once you’ve bought a If for any reason this is not the Startup Visa. This programme off in design, but ended up being Porto. mattress, there is no returning startups.” ideal mattress, we will pick it information and contacts, fosters foreign entrepreneurs the CEO. After working at other and decided and identifying business it. Bruno Madeira was faced with up at no extra cost and return startups, his talent was finally this challenge when he decided the money in full”. It’s been who wish to develop projects partners, premises and noticed by two sectorial giants to take the to move in with his wife. “After an very successful. Sales covered in Portugal, with appropriately – Electronic Arts and Bandai first step to investment opportunities. exasperating search, involving total operating costs from certified incubators. Learn Namco. That’s when he met Chris Really nice people. hundreds of options, we quickly year one. Year two brought in more at startupportugal. Barnes, with whom he would establish à Rua das Portas de Santo realised we’d bought the wrong outside investors and turnover com/startup-visa or apply create and run Doppio. Barnes ourselves as Antão 89; + (351) 210 40 5 116 mattress. And there was no way more than quadrupled. They also worked at EA and later of returning or exchanging it”. are now expanding to Spain. through https://webapps. Bandai. “Over time, we started pioneers.” He noticed a “huge gap between Bruno Madeira, who is 34 years iapmei.pt/StartupVisa. to think together about what modern consumer needs and old, was born in Fronteira, If you are a highly qualified voice could bring to the games 7 Portalegre, a town whose name worker and want to work in industry and how we could make means border, and is very Portugal, then you can also something in a space that was close to the border between not only exploding but also very Portugal and Spain. He came apply for a Tech Visa. This is much unexplored”, Jeferson to Lisbon to study and then a certification programme tells us. “We saw the opportunity went off to “study and work addressed to companies that for voice first games in the in Dublin and São Paulo but wish to attract highly qualified gaming industry and decided was always sure he’d return to and specialised staff to to take the first step to establish Lisbon to set up his life’s work”. ourselves as pioneers in this field There’s no mysticism involved Portugal, from countries by developing games where we and Bruno is quick to explain outside the Schengen area. used voice for what voice is good why: “Lisbon is increasingly a Learn more at www.iapmei. for.” The experience, Jeferson European capital. A destination pt or apply through https:// explains, “is conversational for anyone who wants to enjoy webapps.iapmei.pt/ rather than just the use of quality of life or safety, both voices as a command”. It is very things that locals totally take TechVisa. simple. “Our games have little for granted, but which are, in to no tutorial, you just start and fact, a combination which is we guide you from there. You hard to come by elsewhere”. have the game’s characters He adds, “besides which, all asking you questions or asking modesty aside, the Portuguese you for guidance, and reacting have fantastic profiles to work

PHOTOGRAPHY: MANUEL MANSO PHOTOGRAPHY: INÊS FÉLIX in startups”.

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 16 17 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon 2 4 Unbabel Codacy Language is a barrier. And surpassing In 2014, when Web Summit still took it is crucial for any business with global place in Dublin, Codacy won best dreams. Unbabel was set up to bring that pitch at the biggest tech fair in Europe. FIVE barrier down. It’s a community of over This was enough for it to explode. 100 thousand translators, who correct They came up with the big idea that and refine translations generated by IT engineers and programmers had A quick chat with an artificial intelligence platform, in been waiting for. Jaime Jorge and over 28 languages. It includes chats, João Caxaria created a software that Paddy Cosgrave emails and customer support areas. identifies code errors which would Microsoft, Booking.com, Facebook take ages to correct if done manually, and easyJet are clients of the Lisbon, and which helps create quality and What is the life of an entrepreneur like in New York and San Francisco offices safety patterns. Nobody needs to Lisbon? and the AI lab is in Pittsburgh. Unbabel be grumpy from shoddy work done Web Summit arrived in Portugal at just recently raised 60 million dollars to by their predecessor, or by designer the right time, and we also benefited from invest in expanding their AI platform, programmers who are interested in Portugal’s popularity. The country has become totalling over 91 million in financing creating their own style. The company a very desirable destination. It has made since kick-off in 2014. The company was set up in 2012 and recently closed great investments to support the growth of was created by Vasco Pedro (CEO), João a round of financing which totaled 7.7 technology and startup ecosystems. This has Graça (CTO), Sofia Pessanha, Bruno million dollars and which will allow it been fundamental in attracting relevant people Silva and Hugo Silva, who managed to to raise its head count from 50 to 60, to invest in Portugal and to increase the country’s cut back operating costs by up to 76% for strengthening both production and international visibility. STARSFail, learn and start again is part companies with communication and sales. It operates out of Lisbon and New of how startups do business. But customer support programmes. York but has remote workers in the Bay How is Lisbon contributing to Web Summit’s Area. success? for some companies, that was Lisbon is a very exciting city right now, it is 3 becoming a technology hub and we are incredibly never the case. Their founders 1 5 excited to be staying in Portugal. Our investment can use the Julius Caesar quote: Talkdesk in growing Web Summit’s Lisbon operation is a “veni, vidi, vici”. DefinedCrowd Portugal has generated three unicorn Uniplaces token of our commitment in light of our ten-year Started by Daniela Braga in 2015, companies. Talkdesk joined the elite Portugal, Spain, France, Italy, Austria, partnership with Lisbon and Portugal. We have DefinedCrowd is a data collection and group in 2018, when it was valued at 1225 Germany, Poland, Holland and the UK. witnessed first-hand how active the startup processing platform, using machine million dollars during and investment Uniplaces is present in nine countries and tech scene is in Portugal currently, and are learning, with human input and a speed round, where it obtained 100 million. with the same mission: to make it excited to engage further and be amongst it that puts much of the competition to shame. Set up in 2011 by Tiago Paiva (CEO) and easy for university students to find all. Our partnership with Portugal reassures our The company is built on the foundations Cristina Fonseca, the company has over and book accomodation, reducing many attendees from over 170 countries around of computerised voice, natural language 600 employees in San Francisco, offices the stress for international students the world, and our thousands of partners and and vision (which allow face, object and in Salt Lake City, London, Madrid and with no prior knowledge or contacts exhibitors. It also gives certainty to our host physical environment recognition). The of course Portugal – Lisbon, Porto and of their study destinations. It also country, and to our team of nearly 200 in Dublin, company’s headquarters are in Seattle, but Coimbra. This summer they announced helps landlords with rental properties. and in our other offices around the world. it also has offices in Europe (Lisbon and the opening of a new research centre in Overall, the company covers 39 cities. Porto) and Asia (Tokyo). Its numbers are Aveiro. And what does it do, you may The co-founders Miguel Santo-Amaro, Where do you see yourself in ten years? impressive: turnover has increased tenfold, ask? It applies a layer of AI to traditional Mariano Kostelec and Ben Grech have At Web Summit, we believe building the software 2019 revenue is likely to be over 20 million call centre services, using cloud-based created a company that has become a layer that improves millions of events the world dollars and the number of employees shot storage. Customer data is collected, and global reference, and won the Young over is an incredible opportunity. Connecting from 30 to 140 (42% women, which is quite digested so that relationships with the Guns Award. In the market since 2013, people with great ideas to the right stakeholders remarkable for a tech company). Daniela company don’t always start from zero. the company launched in the middle of in the real world, be they customers or investors, is Braga – who won the João Vasconcelos award The idea is for companies to evolve and be an economic and financial crisis which what moves the world forward. Helping more of the for entrepreneur of the year in Lisbon – hopes on par with customer expectations. IBM, was especially bad in Portugal and the right people and ideas meet in person the world to be a unicorn company in two years, and Dropbox, PBS, Showtime or Farfetch (the euro-zone. They went ahead despite over is something that moves economies and to go public. The company has impressive first Portuguese unicorn company) are the risk – and did very well indeed. societies. And we’re looking forward to dedicating international partners: Amazon, IBM and among the 1800 brands who are on board many decades of work towards connecting more

Microsoft. PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPHY: ARLINDO CAMACHO in 50 countries. of the right people to each other in the real world.

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 18 19 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon Natan Jacquemin Belgium, 24 years old DIGI Nãm Natan Jacquemin came to Lisbon in 2016. unlock local tips for bars, cafes An International Business degree in hand, Wendy van and more”. She didn’t have this he enrolled in a master’s programme idea on her own. She had a glass (Management) at Universidade Católica. Leeuwen of wine and a friend Kristina He left Brussels behind, bringing with him Palovicova for company, and experience from an exchange period in Holland, so Secret City Trails was born. Singapore, and the desire to fight waste, In 2017, they came to Lisbon based on the Blue Economy concept, 31 years old for a startup programme run by which borrows guidelines from the natural Secret City Trails Beta-I incubator. That’s when world. Once his thesis was finished, they were able to fully focus on Natan started to look for coffee shops and developing the idea, which works restaurants willing to supply him with on any smartphone browser (no coffee waste. This was the first step in app required), designed for both founding his startup in 2018 “from waste locals and tourists. “We started to taste” – Nãm. The waste generated from TAL the company for locals to fall in each coffee is enormous: only 1% of total Lisbon became a top Amsterdam, Brussels, London, love with their own city again. We biomass is used in preparing each drink. destination for many Madrid and now Lisbon. Wendy wanted to create an experience The rest is garbage. But Natan uses it to van Leeuwen is a citizen without that wasn’t about going to the produce mushrooms, that he then sells foreign entrepreneurs. We borders. She graduated in same hipster brunch place we back to the places who provided the coffee spoke to four of them about European Studies but 10 years went to every weekend”. Secret waste, and uses the resulting enriched soil ago came to Nova School of City Trails has grown over the to plant other products, including coffee what seduced them in the Business and Economics for a last two years and now has over plants. A circular economy model working city and what pioneering Masters in Management. She 100 games for 40 European cities out of Intendente, one of the most active was immediately won over by (including Lisbon of course). neighbourhoods in the city. projects they brought with the Portuguese capital’s charms. “Today, the games are made them. Sustainability is the “From the first day that I was in by locals. Anyone can create Lisbon, it was love at first sight. adventures with us in their own common ground. I think there’s an incredible city and get a little bit of money energy in this city, it was there for it!” The goal is 3000 games then and you can feel it now. The in over 450 cities by 2023. charm, the nostalgia, the views, It’ll be, quite literally, a global NO the sun, the wine, the nearby playground. beaches – and the great humans”. She didn’t stay and went on to do volunteer work in Sri Lanka, “We wanted worked for big brands (Chiva and Booking.com) in accelerator to create an programmes and investment experience that funds for sustainability startups. She built a network of contacts. wasn’t about One cold night she had an idea: get to know a city through games, going to the same enigmas, puzzles which help hipster brunch participants move around, discovering the city – “and place we went to along the way you learn about every weekend.”

PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPHY: DUARTE DRAGO BUTTERWORTH; PHOTOGRAPHY: ALAN HOWARD history, culture, art and you MADSTime Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 20 21 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon HELP DESK #5

As an athlete, with a healthy of my 20 years of experience a communication and marketing major lifestyle and diet, you end up with in technology, analysing the and never thought of starting a company. Launch In health problems related to poor body, and an amazing network He studied finance and management and Lisbon Sabine Seymour choices, substance abuse and of like-minded experts who Isma Chanez always wanted to have one. Gaetan surfs a sedentary lifestyle? Doctors became team members, advisers, and is a nature lover but that isn’t why he Launch in Lisbon is a Austria, have no idea why. In order to customers, investors.” Sabine B. and Gaetan invested in Klow. “After traveling and seeing 3-day programme for all get to the root of the problem, is also an athlete, which made a some of the terrible impacts of our Western entrepreneurs who want to “forever young” they would need access to the decisive contribution to this idea. Gimer lifestyle, my vision of the world changed and patient’s medical information “I am an athlete 24/7. I watch I wanted to act for a better future. When Isma establish their businesses in SUPA from childhood, when they were what I eat, how much I sleep, how France, asked me to be part of this journey, trying Lisbon, designed by Startup still healthy. Maybe that way, much I move…” But this cannot be to change an industry that contributes a Lisboa in partnership with “We capture it would be possible to create a systemized or used to her benefit 31 and 30 years old lot to climate change, I was 100% in”. They PLMJ Law Firm, Moss & Cooper personalized pharmaceutical if she has a health problem in the Klow – Ecological moved to Lisbon two and a half years ago. Consulting, Hays Recruitment lifestyle data solution to the problem. This future. “There is no simple way Gaetan had visited the city regularly, often Company, Deloitte and JLL. from GenZ was Sabine Seymour’s starting to collect all that data and keep & Ethical Fashion twice a year, for the past 10 years: “The vibes Launch in Lisbon also has point in 2016 when she created it”, she underlines. Until now. of the city, the location: close to the ocean, the support of Fidelidade. via biometric a “highly scalable venture” with Today’s youth will have “SUPA mountain, nature made me want to live The programme includes startup characteristics, to put powers”. Sabine explains how: here for a long time. I just, one day, jumped intensive workshops on the gamification.” her idea into practice. “SUPA is “We capture lifestyle data from into it and I am glad I have done that.” They a B2B lifestyle data company, GenZ via biometric gamification started at Impact Hub Lisbon and are now incorporation of a company focused on GenZ and driven by and create anonymized, The fashion industry is one of the top three at Startup Lisboa. “To start a company, this according to Portuguese Laws, data for good to democratize contextualized data kits and most polluting in the world. Fossil fuels and is really the right spot in Europe! There are fundamentals of corporate and healthcare”. How? “By paying provide it to stakeholders in transport (cars and planes) are the biggest so many facilities and great networking”, personal tax, information on GenZ for their biometric data with sports and health”. The Austrian culprits in greenhouse gas emissions. says Isma, who has also lived in Cape Town. grants and subsidies, labour tokens which can be exchanged entrepreneur has lived in Vienna, Fashion, textiles included, is next in line. Gaetan has lived in London, El Paso and laws, immigration, real estate for cash, sustainable products, Paris, Sydney and New York, Fast fashion is a decisive contributor: Johannesburg, and doesn’t consider himself market and talent recruitment. charitable contributions, where she won a Women in Tech the down side of style democracy and a nomad: “I consider myself an entrepreneur Networking events and an or fractional ownership in award. She decided to move back constantly renewed fashion, is the mass who wanted to settle here in Lisbon”. From entrepreneurial ecosystem tour SUPA.” Exchanging sensitive, to Europe to set up her business, production of clothes with an enormous Lisbon, Klow pools together “the best change with visits to other startups, confidential information for after pondering between moving environmental footprint and levels of makers of the textile industry and we connect a token equivalent, with no to LA or Lisbon. Advantages of waste which are totally unreasonable and it with consumers everywhere in Europe”, incubators, accelerators and meaning beyond this system, is a the Portuguese capital? “People. harmful. But it doesn’t have to be that way. says Isma. Gaetan complements: “We audit coworks are also part of the fundamental part of the project’s People. People, and of course the “Today there are a million people in the every item and brand. The objective is also programme. user seductions process, in an lifestyle and surf. From a great street looking for a sustainable alternative”, to inform and inspire people about a new Launch in Lisbon has played era where what happens to your business community and helpful says Isma Chanez, who decided not to wait sustainable lifestyle. Klow is the good friend a key role in the incorporation data is increasingly a cause for incubators, to access to amazing around for a solution. And created Klow, that gives advice on how to choose a product process of the participants’ concern. Another important talent, and the ability to attract a platform where you can find “ecological well, that will last and break the rules of fast businesses in Lisbon: in a aspect is the monetization of the talent to move here.” Sabine and ethical fashion”. “I created it to have a fashion”. survey carried out with alumni, data provided by the suppliers Seymour had no doubts: “Lisbon positive impact on society and on the world. 75% say that the programme and finally, the aim of it all. “We is a magnet for creative, alike Klow is the online destination to access changed the steps they took want to understand the impact minds in the digital space.” sustainable style.” Isma grew up in Paris, of the environment on our health the birthplace of fashion, and worked in to set up their businesses and gain insights into GenZ the industry for almost eight years before it in Lisbon. More than 50 consumer behaviour towards HELP DESK #4 dawned on her: “For me fashion was always entrepreneurs, from several health, food, sports, and mental about creativity and self-expression… nationalities including USA, wellness to create engaging When I understood how bad this industry Brazil, France, UK, Russia and prevention programs addressing We’d like to teach was for the environment and the garment South Africa, participated in our the dramatic rise of lifestyle you a lesson workers, I decided to embrace the change.” past editions. diseases like diabetes, and help First as a consumer and later as an How to participate? The next pharmaceutical companies Lisbon provides assistance to entrepreneur. In order to start her company, Launch in Lisbon will take place create personalized medicine”, she teamed up with Gaetan Gimer. She’s international students through between the 11th and 13th says Sabine Seymour, who has a Doctorate in Social and Economic Study In Lisbon, a service which March, 2020. The deadline for Studies and has been dedicated to congregates information on “After traveling application is February 28th. innovation technology projects universities, cost of living, culture and seeing All interested in participating since 1998. She started her first and most importantly, the weather. should apply through Startup company that year, focused Lisboa’s website. The cost of It also helps out with boring some of the on mobile and wearables. She the programme is €575 (VAT paperwork such as visas. Currently, terrible impacts has since started various B2B exclusive) per participant. All companies and worked with non- there are two programmes: of our Western sessions are held in English. profits in the sector. “I am also Erasmus, for European Union à Please check startuplisboa. a researcher, curator, investor, lifestyle, I students, and Fulbright, for North- com/launch-in-lisbon for further professor and started advising Americans. wanted to act for start-ups more than 10 years ago information or contact launchinlisbon@ à www.studyinlisbon.pt on strategy and branding focused a better future.” startuplisboa.com on product market fit”. She HELP DESK #5 explains, “SUPA is the synergy FOR SHE’S MERCEDES PHOTOGRAPHY: ANNA ROSE PHOTOGRAPHY: INÊS FÉLIX

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 22 23 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon TO

Second Home CAIS DO SODRÉ This office is also a plant nursery, a living room, a cafeteria (with the best flat whites in town), a bookstore, a cinema, a yoga mat and a nightclub. An all- in-one: where work, fun and sustainability walk hand-in- hand, in probably the prettiest cowork space in Lisbon. Second Home has meeting rooms (for eight to ten people), a studio The number of (up to 100 people) and a lounge area (150 people standing) and SHAcoworking spaces in is located above the Time Out Lisbon is on the rise. Market, upstairs from all the fresh produce, food and drinks. Located in houses, There’s also an open space with palaces, markets, desks and plants everywhere. The selection process ensures a libraries or abandoned diverse ecosystem of businesses: warehouses, they have entrepreneurs, startups, social change agents and big everything business companies – Volkswagen and entrepreneurs or Mercedes are resident members. Prices run between 130€ and creative freelancers 350€ and include five days’ might need: tables, access to all Second Homes – in London and Los Angeles. There chairs, internet and a will soon be a second one in great work environment. Lisbon, near Rato. à Time Out Market Lisboa. Avenida 24 de Julho, 49 (Cais do

PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPHY: MANUEL MANSO Sodré). RETime Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 24 25 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon INCU BATE, ACCELE RATE, CREATE

Human beings have their parents’ house; business ideas have incubators. Their purpose is the same: a safe and caring environment, allowing a child or an idea to gain strength and maturity, so it can become independent. Startup Lisboa (Baixa) is the main nesting area for businesses in the city, but it isn’t the only one.

à Entrepreneurism in Lisbon Resvés Unicorn Heden à LACS came with a vast supply of Places AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE SANTA APOLÓNIA SANTOS incubators: Beta-i (Avenidas Cowork à ALVALADE Office space in central Lisbon Creativity needs places like 360º degree views of the river Novas), with a wide array of CAMPO DE OURIQUE When Quarteto opened in 1975 is a scarce and highly coveted this: eco-friendly and feminist. is Lisbon Art Centre & Studios’ accelerator programmes, António Mesquita believes it was a mecca for independent commodity but Unicorn And Lisbon has three. Besides most obvious competitive working with big companies, traditional work models will films in Lisbon. Its 4 theatre managed to get 1600 square Chiado and Graça, Heden is advantage. It is also much and Bright Pixel, with 7.6 soon be obsolete. This doesn’t rooms were, at one point, metres for two coworking spaces now in Santa Apolónia. It was more than a coworking space: million euros to invest in just cover regular office extensions of the Cannes Film – one in the Hard Rock Café built with sustainability in located riverside at Cais da new businesses, incubators buildings, hierarchies and Festival. It closed in 2007 and building (in a former cinema mind (Coopérnico-approved, Rocha de Conde de Óbidos, focused on creative rules, but also work hours. finally reopened ten years theatre) and the other further the first Portuguese sustainable this refurbished building has a industries such as Centro Which is why his cowork space later as a coworking space. up Avenida da Liberdade, close energy co-op), from carefully rooftop lounge, artist studios, de Inovação da Mouraria is available to members 24 André Cardoso and Mariana to Marquês do Pombal. Total chosen building materials. art and design galleries, a or Village Underground hours a day (using an app), Gil completely transformed capacity is 240 and you can Besides work spaces, Heden bookstore, barber shop, tattoo (Alcântara) – a group of with shared bikes, so that the three floors, getting rid of choose between open space or provides cultural programming, shop, cafeteria, kitchen, lockers, shipping containers for those getting around is never an screens and reels, and created offices (4 to 20 people), which yoga, meditation and massage showers and a bicycle parking who don’t like concrete walls. issue. “People are different and room for 130 people. There are better for startups and small workshops. Membership fees area. The mix of tenants is There are options in palaces, they have different schedules is a terrace for relaxing and to medium sized companies. vary between €150 (flexible curated to ensure diversity and if that’s your preference, such so it makes sense to let them socializing, but this is not Facilities include meeting desk) and €200 (fixed desk). LACS has expanded to Cascais as Baldaya (Benfica). There decide when they want to even its greatest selling point: rooms, phone booths, storage Amenities include showers, and and Anjos, one of the city’s most are also incubators created work”, says António Mesquita, this is the perfect place for units, lounge and food areas. women get a 17,5% discount. multicultural neighbourhoods, by big market players: whose ideal also includes anyone who has to take their Prices start at €180 per month. The goal is to balance out the with a reincarnation of the EDP Starter (Santos), for cultural programming and kids to work. There is a play Free coffee, fruit, filtered water salary difference between men Instagram sensation Fauna e energy-related projects; and networking. Membership area and a babysitter. You can and cleaning services. à Avenida da and women in Portugal. It’s near Flora as the resident restaurant. ENTER (Campolide), run by fees vary between €100 (flex also use personal assistant Liberdade, 10, 3.º andar; Rua Filipe Folque, 2 the river, between the new cruise Prices vary between €45 and the telecommunications coworker), €180 (standard) services, with a stack of useful (Marquês de Pombal) ship terminal and Lux, the best €240. à Cais Rocha Conde de Óbidos heavyweight Altice, where and €225 (premium, more contacts, including plumbers, nightclub in town. à Doca Jardim (Santos); Rua Febo Moniz, 27 (Anjos). Web Summit set up shop light and bigger desks). But you electricians and builders. à Rua do Tabaco, Terminal de Cruzeiros de Lisboa – until Hub Criativo do Beato can also rent space by the hour Flores de Lima (Alvalade), 16. Seg-Sex 08.00- Edificio NE 1.º Piso (Santa Apolónia). is ready. (€15) and startups can rent six 00.00 (€600), eight (€800) or 20 spots (€2000) at a time. à Rua Saraiva de Carvalho, 1 C (Campo de Ourique). PHOTOGRAPHY: INÊS FÉLIX; MANUEL MANSO PHOTOGRAPHY: DR

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 26 27 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon Eight businesses about to take flight

HIGHER EDUCATION is the city’s energy generator. Learning with The greater Lisbon area has over 140 thousand students, your feet in in 14 universities and 20 NER polytechnics. Many of them the sand are international students, as Lisbon has three entrepreneur popularity levels increase with production plants, cranking Erasmus and new investments out the city’s (and the by reputable business schools. country’s) future: ISCTE – International ranking systems Business School (IBS), Católica have helped make Portuguese Lisbon School of Business & universities more attractive, Economics (Católica-Lisbon) positioning them amongst the and Nova School of Business best. University of Lisbon is & Economics (Nova SBE). DY well placed in the reputable QS The Financial Times global World University Ranking 2020. rankings place all three Locals call this the “classics” in the top 100 European university but the name is business schools. IBS has the misleading: this is also the place greatest amount of students to study environmental and studying abroad. Católica- marine science, or aerospace Lisbon and Nova SBE have engineering. All the main a partnership with MIT, for ranking systems place this a one-year programme for university close to the top of international students – the LIS the list. However, Universidade Lisbon MBA – focused on social Católica, which is private, is also skills and career planning. in the running for best higher Nova SBE currently has 40% education spot in Lisbon – and international students and the was able to win according to the aim is to keep growing. This UK list, Times Higher Education. was one of the reasons for the This contest is ultimately won move to Cascais, close to the by the students, who get the best beach in Carcavelos. Nothing education possible. beats looking at numbers and management models, with a drink in your hand and an BON ocean view. Nova SBE’s new digs are next to NATO’s new school of communications, and, starting next year, will also have student dorms, with 301 studios and co-living areas. ■ PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPHY:

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 28 29 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon Global Green Lisbon will be the 2020 European New Deal Green Capital. But this is not Lisbon is one of 94 a cause for celebration: it’s cities to have signed a joint declaration supposed to make us think about acknowledging environment-related exhibitions our current state of and infrastructure; and debate climate emergency Going solutions in huge conferences; and appealing for a and set goals for the next decade. Global Green New Deal. During the summit, which took place in October, in Copenhagen, leaders pledged green to make inclusive climate action a LISBON WILL PLACE the fight against climate EcoProcura Conference, European Congress change at the forefront of debate and of Intelligent Transport Systems 2020 and priority in their 2020 will be a crucial year. The city will be United Nations Conference for the Oceans. European Green Capital and the plan is to Lisbon City Hall’s statement is a good decision-making use this title to create real change which indication of how high expectations really and to keep global the city really wants and needs. Lisbon are: “2020 European Green Capital starts is set on meeting the environmental now and will never end”. Although much warming below the and sustainability goals set in the Paris of what will be done this year is part of a 1.5ºC target set in Agreement and by the UN for the year 2030. decade long programme, some things 2020 will be spent talking to city dwellers, will change the cityscape right away. The the Paris Agreement. debating and implementing real measures Biodiversity Gallery, the Eco-center – Waste to improve water and air quality, mobility, and Energy Interpretation Center, the “The current global green infrastructure, biodiversity, pushing Water Interpretation Center – LIS-Water climate emergency for clean energy, circular economy and the Natural Variations Exhibition are here sustainable building methods, reducing to stay. But that is not all. A lot of urban requires faster and noise, pollution and heatwaves. rehabilitation projects will be completed bolder action”, says The city’s goals will be set before the end next year: the green corridors of Vale de of the year and in November, the people of Alcântara, Vale do Forno and Vale da Fernando Medina. Lisbon will be called to vote in the biggest Montanha, the pedestrian and cycling participatory budgeting programme to bridges of Calçada de Carriche, Trancão and “We are the last date, with five million euros in projects. Gago Coutinho, and the complete renovation generation that The big news is all projects must have green of Praça de Espanha square. credentials. European Green Capital will Other important measures in 2020 include can still make the officially take off on January 11 with a a Photovoltaic Power Plant, the ban on the necessary change. video mapping show in Terreiro do Paço. use of disposable plastic in public spaces, Programming will continue through to more buses (electric and natural gas), We all need to December 2020, and will include six major extended cycling routes, daily tree planting, themed exhibitions (with both visual and additional drinking fountains, or even water commit to a low- sensory impact), focused on climate change, and energy savings. These won’t be the first carbon lifestyle. We energy, water, nature and biodiversity, measures Lisbon has taken to become the garbage and the oceans. There will be other, city it wishes to be. The city was chosen as need to commit to minor exhibitions throughout the year. 2020 European Green Capital because of its ourselves and to the Four major conferences are also on the efforts up to this point. The following pages

PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPHY: calendar: Urban Future Global Conference, cover what’s been achieved so far. planet”, he appeals.

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 30 31 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon “We aim to make the city What is the cost of organising Web Summit? one of the Isn’t too much innovation support being given Ask Wouldn’t it be easier for the city to recover to entrepreneurs outside of the Lisbon area, capital if it were invested in the local considering that it’s financially harder to community of entrepreneurs? best to work prosper, study and live in the city? Web Summit is one of the most important That’s not what the figures show. Like in leveraging channels for the local community and live in, by every major city, we are experiencing a of entrepreneurs. It reinforces the sector’s problematic rise in real estate prices, which international position and increases its is why we have an ongoing and ambitious worth in the global market. It is expected that international affordable rent programme, to ensure Medina 70 thousand people from over 150 countries, housing access for the middle class and 1800 startups and over 11 thousand CEOs standards. young people searching for their first home. We invited the attend Web Summit this year, which allows for closer contact with other realities, but We’ve been With all this development, is it possible to entrepreneurs we spoke also exclusive opportunities to get funding safeguard Lisbon’s charm and the sense of to for this edition of and recognition. community? What is the council doing in that investing in regard? Time Out to ask Lisbon’s Training is one of the greatest challenges for We believe it’s possible. For that to happen, startups. What is the strategy for developing projects to we need to ensure that growth is sustainable, mayor some questions. and attracting talent to Lisbon? leaving no one behind, hence our strong Lisbon has the largest network of universities investment in affordable housing, public Fernando Medina took and research centres in the country. The city improve public transport and projects such as the promotion on the challenge and has been working on channelling academic of municipal markets or historical shops. knowledge, through an incubator network space, increase answered them: “we as well as projects like Smart Open Lisboa Improving mobility in Lisbon is imperative. or Lisboa Robotics. We also aim to make the number What are the plans for increasing public capitalise more on local the city one of the best to work and live in, transport solutions? creative talent than is by international standards. We’ve been Lisbon is in the midst of a real mobility investing in projects to improve public space, of green areas revolution. We now have a single pass for the often assumed”. increase the number of green areas and whole of Lisbon’s metropolitan area, which modernise public transport. and modernise costs a maximum of 40 euros per month. Seven months ago, we had over 700 different Does Lisbon look up to other stronger passes and prices that, in many cases, cost entrepreneurial communities? public over 100 euros! It was no small feat. And we We’ve been learning quite a lot from Paris, are currently in the process of making the Amsterdam and San Francisco, not only transport.” largest investment ever in the city’s public in terms of what they’ve been succeeding transport fleet, which will incorporate 350 at but also through the challenges they new buses and 35 trams by 2021. The Metro face in the development process. It’s very is also expanding. important for us to build a strong connection with these more mature and established What is Lisbon’s cutting-edge project proposal entrepreneurial communities, as we can for fighting global warming? Are you open to both harness their experience and become suggestions? There is a lot to do… part of their network. Our most cutting-edge proposal is to mobilise all citizens. The council will It’s important for startups to be flexible and continue to do its part – with the new water agile during proceedings. Many countries have recycling system, we aim to save 8% of the simpler laws and fewer taxes. Could Lisbon city’s total drinking water consumption benefit from a more favourable framework for with several startups. The first time I by 2025 – but we need everyone. We are, investors? attended Web Summit, during their last of course, open to suggestions, that’s why We haven’t experienced any issues in Dublin edition, I met a Portuguese young we want to summon all efforts to develop that regard. We’ve sought to optimise man from a company that stood out that sustainability projects in the city in 2020. proceedings as much as possible. year. The project was very simple. It was a weather-coordinated smart irrigation Do you consider offering more support to Public tenders are usually awarded to large system for green spaces, which allowed startups working on green solutions and, at companies. Why not create opportunities water consumption to drop by 20 to 30%. the same time, refusing to offer it to projects exclusively for startups? When I said to him that we should implement that manifestly increase pollution? That’s not entirely true. We need to follow it in Lisbon, he told me that was already We’ve been doing that for many years. We public procurement rules. And we also underway. We capitalise more on local are facing a climate emergency, so it’s our

PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPHY: already have agreements and contracts creative talent than is often assumed. responsibility and duty to do what we can.

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 32 33 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon AF_MoL_Imprensa_200x270mm_V2.pdf 1 18/10/2019 16:20

On the LISBOA right hub of Small ideas, big solutions Smart Open Lisboa is an open innovation project through which startups are invited to present solutions to urban problems. track There is a different theme every year: in 2018, it was real estate; this year, the focus Blue Paving the way for 2020 European is mobility. The selected projects will have Green Capital on four crucial fronts: the opportunity to dev elop and test their ideas in real settings, in partnership with housing, mobility, water and pollution. major companies from each sector and in

association with accelerator Beta-i. Here C What Lisbon has been up to. are four prime examples that show Lisbon is M changing in a creative way. Y

Meep CM It’s a trip planner from Spain. The app allows Eco-housing Recycled water you to pick a route and tailor every part MY The oldest neighbourhood in Europe is Drinking water is a scarce resource and it of your journey. You can combine public CY Green in Lisbon, right next to Parque Florestal is wasteful to use it to wash streets, water transport with car or bike shared systems de Monsanto, the city’s green lung. Bairro gardens, or in industry, recreation and CMY and pay through a single platform. Options da Boavista was built in 1941, it houses ornamental features. Conversely, residual K 20 thousand people and is undergoing waters are wasted after going through include preferring cheaper, faster or more profound change. Brick and mortar treatment plants. Lisbon has found the eco-friendly routes. 20km of riverfront buildings are being replaced with eco- obvious way to solve both problems: residual houses, featuring solar panels and rainwater waters reenter the system after treatment AIPark European Green Capital 2020 collection systems, to keep gardens healthy. and are used for everything except human Looking for parking spaces is one of the These eco-houses will also easily adapt to consumption. Using recycled water will most polluting urban practices, and Lisbon, growing families: you can add on to them cut current levels of drinking water used where there are 200 thousand spaces without making structural changes. Last in Lisbon by 75%. This solution took off available for over 740 thousand cars daily, April, the city hall delivered 50 of a total 500 in 2019 and is a three step project, with is no exception. German AIPark seeks to houses. One of the main conclusions so far corresponding city areas, scheduled for has been that sustainable building does not completion in 2025. direct drivers to empty parking spaces, using increase housing costs. information based on previous and real- Clean streets time data from users who have a Via Verde See you at the Web Summit. Out in the open Lisbon has new rules for waste management, identifier (a subscription payment system). Lisbon wants to cut down on car use in the urban street cleaning and hygiene, ready They claim to be able to make the process Lisboa City Council will be @ Pav 4 city – from 47% to 34% - by 2030.The plan for action on its first day as 2020 European three times faster. is for city dwellers to opt for public or soft Green Capital. Measures include a ban on the means of transport. You can, for example, use of non-recyclable plastic in public areas cycle on the 90 km of bicycle lanes in the city and fines for littering, including cigarettes Alfredo AI (set to increase to 200 km). The city recently and gum (anywhere between 150 and 15 Representing Portugal on this list, this set up a public network of shared bikes, GIRA, thousand euros). The same goes for dog poop. startup wants to bring transparency to the which competes with the many private bike Restaurants, hotels and stores will be forced bustling local real estate market. Through and tricycle rentals. Ideally, locals should be into cleanliness, with the legal obligation to artificial intelligence and big data, Alfredo able to walk everywhere – many pedestrian keep their surroundings tidy. The number AI carries out instant comparative analyses areas are popping up, as are traffic-free of underground recycling bins is also on the squares. Neighbourhood bus routes were set rise and the city has 30 new garbage trucks and calculates value intervals for assessing up in 2017, using smaller buses for smaller which emit 80% less carbon dioxide than its properties. The aim is for the result of routes within each neighbourhood, designed current fleet. assessments to be less dependable on the madeoflisboa.com Lisboa · Web Summit’s capital to bring everyone closer together. assessor’s level of experience and skill. ■ PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTOGRAPHY:

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 34 35 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon NEW INNOVATION HUBS

Pampering startups has become a Lisbon specialty, so it’s no surprise that an old army factory complex is being turned into an enormous new hub. Hub Criativo do Beato, managed by Startup Lisboa is scheduled to open by 2020.The

Berlin-based developer Factory, à à along with Mercedes, Super Bock à and Web Summit are amongst Hub Criativo its first customers. The latter do Beato is also responsible for another high impact investment in the eastern part of town, set to double the size of FIL, the venue which will continue to host the summit annually, over the next few years. Work will be finished in 2022. Way on the other side of town, to the West, but also on the river, the Champalimaud Foundation will have a new building: the Botton-Champalimaud Pancreatic Centre, which promises to attract specialists the world over. The city is changing, SEE reorganising itself, becoming greener à and making a clear Botton- -Champalimaud switch to softer and, Pancreatic Y O U where possible, Center collective modes of transport. We want to know what Lisbon will be like in I N 2028, the last (scheduled) year of Web Summit in Portugal. We asked our crystal ball and 2028 got these 3D images.

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 36 37 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon LISBON ALL à WORK Praça de Espanha GETS A This is the mayor’s pet project. Currently an important traffic Parque das Nações, home to Web Summit’s hotspot, next year it will cease to venue, will have a new and original office be an uninviting, congested and project in 2021: Exeo Office Campus. MAKEOVER busy crossroad, to become one Three new buildings will be raised to of the biggest gardens in town. encourage high-tech-reliant companies to The city is reducing car traffic Asphalt will be brought under mingle. Further downriver, in Alcântara, and increasing its pedestrian-friendly control, with new cycle paths close to the 25 de Abril bridge, another credentials, with more bicycle lanes and the original stream (covered new office complex will go up, potentially and parks. One neighbourhood at a time. up in the past) uncovered creating thousands of jobs. BNP Paribas, Across the bridge, the riverfront and reinstated. It will become the second biggest bank in Europe has will be unrecognisable. a worthy neighbour to the already saved a spot. Gulbenkian gardens oasis, also

set to expand. à à

Exeo Office Campus à Doca da Marinha Lisbon has been trying to win back its proximity to the river, mostly hidden behind containers, walls and utility

areas. Doca da Marinha, next à

to Terreiro do Paço, is another à natural step in this direction, Sete Rios after Ribeira das Naus and the Just 1km away, Sete Rios is new cruise ship terminal in home to the Lisbon Zoo and a Santa Apolónia. The current major national coach terminal. à Alcântara buildings will be replaced with City Council plans to renew the office complex bicycle lanes, pedestrian areas area by 2022, improving and and river views. Trees will be balancing traffic flow, public planted along Av. Infante D. transport stops, bicycle lanes Henrique. and sidewalks. Even the lions will be pleased with their new front yard.

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 38 39 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon ON THE MOVE

Expanding the underground system is

à the city’s main transport-related project. K-Tower In 2023, there will be a circular line around the city centre with two new

stations, Estrela and Santos. Further new à

à stops are already planned. The number Integrated Operation 15 tram will also expand, linking Parque of Entrecampos da Nações, home to Web Summit, to Also close to Praça de Espanha, neighbouring council, Oeiras, further Entrecampos will become a down river. From 2022 onward, new city hub, half way between thousands of passengers will flock to Cidade Universitária and Montijo where the new Lisbon airport Saldanha, also recently redone. will be built. ■ It will be a business center with housing and services, built from à à à scratch where the now defunct Parque Ribeirinho Oriente historical Lisbon Funfair used Montijo airport The first stage of this new park, to be. The funfair closed back

which will stretch along the river in 2003 but will finally reopen à between Doca do Poço do Bispo in 2021, in Pontinha. The new Infinity Tower and Matinha, should be ready buildings in Entrecampos will à before the end of this year. The be surrounded by parks and Cinco District finished park will be 1.3km and gardens. reach the marina in Parque das Nações. This will make getting from Hub Criativo do Beato to the Web Summit venue much more pleasant (and breathable) with cafes, public toilets, bicycle rental facilities and a library. The area’s former port and industrial identity will be preserved.

à

Lisbon South Bay à Doca da Marinha will be the THREE New subway Odivelas perfect place to keep an eye on stations what’s happening across the water – the entire industrial Linha Amarela riverfront, covering Almada, PEEPING Linha Vermelha Barreiro and Seixal will be Aeroporto Reboleira reinvented. The plan is to Campo Grande create a new focus for economic Telheiras Linha Azul Linha growth and investment, which TOWERS Verde could reach close to a billion Sete Rios Roma-Areeiro Entre Campos euros, spread over the next 14 Lisbon is a low building city but change is on years. Almada will have new the horizon. Several high-rises are planned Olaias housing, shops, offices, hotels, for the next few years. K-Tower near Gare São Sebastião a congress venue and marina. do Oriente, Parque das Nações, a 13 floor Alameda The neighbouring councils will office building will be ready in 2021. Infinity Marquês de Pombal be linked by new roads crossing Tower, in Campolide, will be double the Rato over the straights which separate size: 26 floors, with 195 apartments ready in Seixal, Barreiro and Montijo 2022. Lastly, Carnaxide, just outsider the city, Estrela Rossio Baixa - Chiado peninsulas. The latter will be will have a 20 story building with 360 degree Santos home to a much discussed second views of the river and the ocean: Cinco Cais do Sodré Santa Apolónia airport. It will be well worth the District will be ready in 2021. long wait.

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 40 41 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon

à A Taberna da Rua das Flores à Saturday lunch is stew time at Taberna Jardim da Luz da Rua das Flores, in Chiado. The regular This restaurant offers a huge traditional Food menu is unavailable, there are one or two room with stone arches or a small garden appetizers and a different weekly one pot patio in the sun. When you ask for açorda stew, for one or two people, announced the you need never wonder whether you’ll day before. You could get goat stew, tripe, get more bread than shrimp. At Jardim beans or fish soup for example. It’s the best da Luz this dish has enough shrimp to be & Drink way to get to know Portugal – each dish is called extravagant. The portion size is very explained in detail upon its arrival at the generous. There are other noteworthy stews table, including recipe, product provenance in pots, such as veal on Wednesday (9,45€). and producers. Each pot is 20 to 25 euros à Quartel da Formação, Largo da Luz (Carnide). 217 156 087. and portion sizes are old-school, as in very Tue-Sun Midday – 4pm/7-11pm. generous. à Rua das Flores, 103 (Chiado). 213 479 418. à Mon-Sat Midday-11.30pm. Horta dos Brunos One of the house specials, on the menu for O Galito the past 17 years, is the one pot sparerib rice O Galito (meaning the cockerel in stew (€37) Serves two people, and the ribs Portuguese), in Carnide, is a temple to the are sautéed before the rice is added. Other food from Alentejo in the south of Portugal. ingredients include butter beans and diced The family who runs the restaurant moved cabbage sprouts, added only at the very end to Lisbon from Serra d’Ossa, and brought to ensure they stay bright and green. Typical with them local delicacies, such as the Portuguese recipes and a very long list of mythical wild wood pigeon rice dish. The wines and whiskeys. à Rua Ilha do Pico, 27 (Arroios). pigeon is slowly cooked, deboned, stewed 213 153 421. Mon-Sat 12.30-3pm/7-10.30pm. with different forms of pork sausage and fat (linguiça, toucinho), a slash of vinegar and a sprinkle of peppermint sprigs to finish. Try the mini pheasant pies to start with, and then scrape the bottom of the rice pot to uncover the pretty cockerel design. à Rua Adelaide Cabete, 7B (Carnide). 217 111 088. Mon-Sat 12.30-3pm/7.30-11pm. Faz Frio Faz Frio, a classic Lisbon restaurant, was revamped and reopened in late 2018. The new chef aims to keep the classical Portuguese menu and typical cod dishes, which made the restaurant famous, but hopes to be more seasonal and concentrate on the quality of ingredients. Depending on the season, you could get wild rabbit bean stew, (€38), with Portobello mushrooms, pickled carrot and spinach, cod bladder bean stew, or smoked meat rice stew. They also do cheese and charcuterie boards and have a full cocktail bar. à Rua Dom Pedro V, 96 (Príncipe Real). 215 814 296. Sun, Tue-Wed Midday-Midnight, Pot Thu-Sat Midday-2pm. Imperial de Campo de Ourique Chanfana, made with old goat meat, is one of the many Portuguese specialties served in a restaurant where everything is geared to make you feel at home. It’s the Friday special Jackpot (and Saturday too if there are leftovers) and Stews are synonymous with comfort food it’s cooked the day before, in a clay pot, as tradition dictates. The goat meat is plunged and slow cooking. Some of Portugal’s most in red wine, with garlic, bay leaves, salt, traditional food is simmered on a stovetop. pepper and other secret ingredients. Other Here is a selection of typical recipes days of the week feature equally traditional dishes mostly from the north of Portugal. à to enjoy in restaurants old and new, Rua Correia Teles, 67 (Campo de Ourique). 213 886 096. Mon-

with price options from 5 to 50 euros. PHOTOGRAPHY: MANUEL MANSO; DUARTE DRAGO Fri 7am-8pm, Sat 7am – 6pm.

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 42 43 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon Food & Drink Food & Drink

Peixaria da Esquina à Adega da Tia Matilde served in an individual clay pot, has all the Two copper skillets on hinges are known as Lamprey is available between January and pork trimmings and comes in its own broth. a cataplana and allow for slow cooking with March, when it’s in season, either with rice Only available on Fridays and should be very little liquid. Peixaria da Esquina serves or bordelaise style which is without the booked ahead of time – lots of locals this stew in four different ways: with cod, blood. One order has four portions of fish come here for the traditional Alentejo fare. shrimp (€39.50), lobster (€89.85) or mixed but you can also pay for individual portions à Rua Coelho da Rocha, 11 (Campo de Ourique). 213 909 seafood (€42.75). While you wait, order a (€11 euros each). There’s always cozido on 118. Mon-Sat Midday -3pm/7-10pm. pica-pau (steak cut into bite-sized pieces Tuesday, fish fritters, breaded grouper fillets with pickles and sauce). It’s not on the menu or bean stew. Service is attentive and friendly A Casa dos Passarinhos but they will serve it on request. Or try one and portions are always generous, regardless Once a month, this restaurant in Campo de of the house marinades. à Rua Correia Teles, 56 of what you order. à Rua da Beneficência, 77 Ourique, known mostly for grilled steaks on (Campo de Ourique). 213 874 644. Tue-Fri 7-11.30pm, Sat- (Entrecampos). 217 972 172. Mon- Fri Midday-4pm/7-11pm, hot stone slabs, does a wild rabbit rice stew. Sun 12.30-3.30pm/7.30-11.30pm. Sat 12.30-4.30pm. You have to call ahead and get a price quote and figure out if they still have any but it is O Caçador Adega das Mercês so worth it. The monk fish rice or pasta with O Caçador, in Algés, serves monumental Adega das Mercês, in Bairro Alto, doesn’t monk fish and shrimp are available every portions that smell so good you serve huge portions but everything is home day. The octopus rice is also tender, with immediately forget they don’t have a sea cooked and follows traditional recipes. For lovely broth, served every Friday, for two view. Razor clam rice is one of the house “cabidela” (€9.50), the chicken is marinated people. à Rua Silva Carvalho, 195 (Campo de Ourique). specials, served in a pot big enough for two in vinho verde for tenderness and flavour, 213 882 346. Mon-Sat 12 - 3pm/7-10.30pm. people. Besides razor clams, this rice dish and then topped with blood and vinegar, also has cockles, clams and shrimp to fill giving it a characteristic brown colour. They Tapisco à you up. The broth needs to be soaked up generous classics like lobster Thermidor or also serve delicious seafood rice in its own Henrique Sá Pessoa (who has two Michelin in bread when you’re done eating. You can seafood extravaganzas, there’s a section for broth (€9.90), and traditional desserts such starts and a restaurant in Time Out Market) also get similar rice stew with either cod stews, such as grouper and shrimp rice in as rice pudding or almond cake (€2.50). à and his sous chef Joana Duarte, who runs (€22) or rabbit. à Rua Bento Jesus Caraça, 6 (Algés). a coriander broth. They also serve seafood Travessa das Mercês, 2 (Bairro Alto). 213 424 492. Mon-Sat the kitchen at Tapisco, combine Spanish and 214 196 309. Mon- Sat 8am -10.30pm. açorda (rustic bread based dish), made Midday- 3pm/ 7pm - Midnight. Portuguese tapas with a few one pot stews to with sourdough bread (€29), seafood rice share (or not, it’s up to you). The list includes Cervejaria Liberdade (€37.50) or lobster rice (€32.5’). Service is O Magano creamy cod rice with tomatoes and coriander The ground floor restaurant of Hotel Tivoli classical and flawless. à Tivoli Avenida Liberdade, This bastion of food from Alentejo serves for flavor and colour (€20) and peas with Avenida da Liberdade offers a long list of Avenida da Liberdade, 185 (Avenida). 213 198 620. Mon-Sun large, heavily seasoned portions of excellent chorizo from the Alentejo and a slow cooked seafood standards from our shores. Among 12.30 -11.30pm. quality products. Start with the pheasant, egg (€17). à Rua Dom Pedro V, 81 (Príncipe Real). 213 420 the prosciutto and the mini chicken pies, but 681. Mon-Sun Midday - Midnight. then dive into one of the house suggestions: cod açorda with a poached egg, spareribs and JNcQUOI coriander migas (cornbread, garlic and olive Lobster and grouper rice (€32) is one of oil - €30 for two people), grouper, shrimp chef António Bóia’s specials and one of and clam pasta (€17) or tomato soup with the signature dishes at JNcQUOI, the grouper and a poached egg (€18). à Rua Tomás beautiful Amorim Luxury restaurant with da Anunciação, 52 (Campo de Ourique). 21 395 4522. Mon-Sat first class service. It comes in a copper pot, Midday – 3pm/7.30-10.30pm. rice in broth, tasting of the sea, with a good balance between grouper and other types

Picamiolos à of seafood. They sometimes team up with José Júlio Vintém, a chef from northern other restaurants for northern or southern Alentejo, brought the best of the region food specials. Don’t forget to leave room to his restaurant in Cais do Sodré. Lunch for dessert, created by Joaquim Sousa or specials include stews, such as chicken the French pastry giant Ladurée. à Avenida da “cabidela” (cooked in its own blood), Liberdade, 182 (Avenida). 213 969 900. Mon-Sat Midday to broad beans with spareribs and chorizo, Midnight. or chickpea “cozido” (meat based stew) on Wednesdays. You can also order appetizers Provinciana such as lamb sweetbreads or lard petals. à This is the place to come for good value stews Rua do Corpo Santo, 4 (Cais do Sodré). 215 890 487. Mon-Sat but you have to arrive early: the restaurant 12.30-3.30pm/7-12pm. will be full by 1pm and you’ll have to wait in line and pray they don’t run out of the A Trempe day’s specials. Cabidela chicken on Monday, A Trempe, in Campo de Ourique, looks goat stew on Tuesday, tripe or bean stew on like a local dive and has a very rustic menu Wednesday, cozido on Thursday. We could go with very filling options, heavy on the on. Specials are taped to the window, five to seasoning, such as fish soup and pork six a day, but one thing is for sure: a plate full tenderloin with coriander sauce, and of food, a glass of wine and dessert will rarely traditional desserts such as sericaia and be over 10 euros. And service is efficient and encharcada (convent classics with lots of friendly. ■ à Travessa do Forno, 23 (Baixa). 213 464 704.

egg yolks and sugar). Chickpea stew (€13) PHOTOGRAPHY: MANUEL MANSO; DUARTE DRAGO PHOTOGRAPHY: INÊS FÉLIX Mon-Sat 8am-11pm.

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 44 45 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon Food & Drink Food & Drink

NEW

João Correia. The vibe is use mainly organic ingredients unpretentious, and their offer and always favour sustainability, spans oxtail croquettes (four serving natural wine and offering Fresh out units, 7€) and katsu sando with an ever-changing menu without crispy presa ibérica (12€). à Rua the usual starter and main course 1.º de Dezembro 120 (Rossio). 210 440 018. sections. On the little black Mon-Sun 5pm-1am. Moleskine handwritten menu, you are just as bound to find veal of the oven Pizzeria do Jamie Oliver tail with squid ink polenta and Jamie Oliver, the renowned black beer as prawns marinated

Lisbon has an increasingly vibrant, Queimado à British chef, has opened his with aguachile and white rich and diverse gastronomic scene. Everything is cooked on the grill second restaurant in Lisbon, strawberries (they’re sourer) or From small tascas to fine dining at this restaurant, but despite on Rua do Loreto, near Largo de quail escabeche. à Rua das Canastras the name, nothing gets burnt. Camões. The cuisine is Italian; 8 (Campo das Cebolas). 218 863 259. Wed- restaurants, traditional to world There is a lunch menu for 14€, the main dish, pizza. You’ll find Sun 6pm-midnight. cuisines, options are ever-growing, which includes a starter, 13 options on the menu. The and having a bad meal in the city a main course and a drink. dough is light, always rolled Capim Limão The dinner menu is meant for out by hand and topped with The name is in Brazilian is getting harder. Here is a selection sharing, offering nine dishes the best ingredients. Besides Portuguese, but it’s hard to label of twenty new spots that have made with local and regional that, there are always four this restaurant in Picoas as a just opened this year. seasonal ingredients – all oven dishes available, which single cuisine kind of place. At reasonably priced – and we include lasagne with oxtail Capim Limão, (lemongrass), recommend three to four dishes ragù, bechamel, mozzarella and you’ll find comfort food, for two people. On Sundays, parmesan or baked chicken, seemingly simple but well- there is “a kind of brunch”, with with chicken breast marinated seasoned dishes and much heartier food. à Rua Luz Soriano 44 in lemon and thyme and undercover skill in dishes (Bairro Alto). Tue-Sat 6.30pm-1.30am, Sun served with Italian-style roast including prawn moquequinha

1pm-1.30am. coleslaw and homemade pickles Bicho Mau à vegetables. à Rua do Loreto 12 (Bairro and filet mignon with potato (8€). On Sundays, brunch is king At this bistro, seasonality sets Alto). 969 398 165. Sun-Thu midday-11pm, gratin. To make choosing easier, Taberna Albricoque – the menu is shorter, and prices the tone of the menu, which is Fri-Sat midday-midnight. the menu is short – there are Taberna Albricoque breathes range from 9€ and 13€. All with small but creative, and favours no more than six options of à new life into an old dwelling a sprinkle of American road trip creatures, but not the evil kind VdB Bistronomie starters, salads, main courses with Algarvian appetisers and dreaminess. à Largo do Calvário 32 (as the name of the restaurant At VdB, the bistronomie concept and desserts. à Rua Sousa Martins 15B dishes. The place is a portrait (Alcântara). 938 975 970. Tue-Fri midday- would suggest). Don’t dismiss takes centre-stage – essentially, it (Picoas). 213 571 233. Mon-Fri midday-9pm, of old Lisbon – the walls, the 3pm & 6pm-midnight, Sat 2pm-midnight, Sun the couvert, which includes is affordable haute cuisine. They Sat midday-3.30pm. bar counter, the furniture, the midday-4pm. slow-fermented artisan bread. hydraulic-tiled floor and the Then ask about the dishes – staff back room with the painted tile East Mambo is always happy to help. You can panel alluding to the old station. Kebabs are usually reserved opt for João-pé-de-ervilha, a There are fado evenings every for ungodly post-club hours, green pea soup with wasabi duck Wednesday, by the voice of for curing tough hangovers or (4€), or the “pig who wanted Marta Rosa, so savour the music for gobbling up on a strict diet’s to be a sheep” (15€), which is with a side of tinned purple cheat day – which means, mangalica pork – this breed of carrots with salted olives, or pair most often, it’s seen as junk food. Hungarian pig is has a thick, it with a razor clam broth, oxtail Bad junk good. But Bernardo woolly coat, like a sheep – in a and chickpeas or the chicken Agrela, a chef previously brioche bun, with cabbage. à Rua with pear and almonds. à Rua dedicated to fine dining, decided Coelho da Rocha 21A (Campo de Ourique). dos Caminhos de Ferro 98 (Santa Apolónia). to delve into the wonderful world 211 608 694. Wed-Sat 12.30pm-3pm & 963 491 581. Tue 6pm-11pm, Wed-Sat of kebabs and turn them into a 7.30pm-10.30pm, Sun 12.30pm-4.30pm. 11am-11pm, Sun 11am-6pm. more delectable version of stop- gap food, and opened a little joint Rossio Gastrobar The Garage-Smokehouse near São Sebastião. Hanging on Altis Avenida has a terrace bar & BBQ the wall, you’ll find four menus: with comfy chairs from which The Garage-Smokehouse & number 1 includes a kebab and you can gaze at Praça do Rossio, BBQ moved into an old tavern in a drink (10€), number 2 comes the castle, Elevador de Santa Alcântara; bringing the best of with double-fried chips (12€), Justa and, as a backdrop, the the family barbecue tradition. number 3 has all of this plus a river. The gastrobar, on the Classics like brisket, a cut of beef starter mix (15€) and number 4 seventh floor, has a carefully from the lower chest, or Black comprises a soup, a salad and a curated selection of appetisers, Iberian loin with homemade drink (6.50€). à Rua Latino Coelho 87A all prepared with (mainly barbecue sauce, or the pulled (São Sebastião). Mon-Tue midday-3.30pm, national) seasonal ingredients

pork sandwich with chips, PHOTOGRAPHY: INÊS FÉLIX PHOTOGRAPHY: DUARTE DRAGO Wed-Sat midday-3.30pm & 6.30pm-10.30pm. by chefs João Rodrigues and

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is in tune with the seasons and offers sea and land options, such as pork terrine or sardines with aubergine. Alternatively, opt for one of the tasting menus, with six or eight courses (64€ or 82€), and taste a little bit of everything. à Pátio de Dom Fradique 12 (Castelo). Tue- Sun midday-3pm & 7pm-11pm.

JNcQUOI Ásia The Chinese dragon in the middle of the room and the Asia- inspired décor are reminders of

É um restaurante à the Portuguese presence in the CRESCER, an association for Far East, and the open kitchen community intervention, blends flavours from across opened a restaurant in Lisbon. the continent. There are four But it’s far more than that. It is a different areas: the cocktail bar, pilot-project for the reinsertion the restaurant, the sushi bar and of homeless people. Consulting the terrace. The menu presents chef Nuno Bergonse is sided by specialties ranging from sushi executive chef David Jesus, and to robata, but also including the menu is filled with comfort tandoori and the chef’s creative food and Portuguese flavours desserts. In the evening, the Taberna do Calhau à for sharing. Options include atmosphere is different: lights Purslane soup, gazpacho, brawn, peixinhos da horta (like a dim, the vibe changes and the lamb on bread. These are some of vegetable tempura) with tartare DJ, by the bar, sets the tone the typically Portuguese dishes sauce, cockle rissoles with until 2am. à Avenida da Liberdade 144 you can find at this restaurant, samphire or octopus pica-pau. Plano à (Avenida). 210 513 000. Restaurant, sushi bar where Alentejo’s cuisine reigns The general recommendation is There is an oasis in Graça and terrace: midday-midnight. Cocktail bar: supreme, even if not all dishes three dishes for two people. where the essence of Portugal midday-2am. scream Alentejo at first glance. à Rua de São José 56 (Avenida). 213 620 is tried by fire before serving. A Chef Leopoldo Garcia Calhau,

192. Tue-Sat 8pm-11pm. place where the only available Talho da Esquina à proud of his roots, hopes that table is communal, bringing Sirloin, chuck, T-bone, rib, customers feel at home, dunk scrambled eggs with túberas Dallas (a maximum of 18) people Arouquesa and Angus, all fresh their bread in sauce unashamed, (Alentejo’s very own truffles, Burgers are a serious matter. At together to savour chef Vítor and quality-controlled. Aged drink good wine and buy a bottle 8€), rojões (a pork recipe from Dallas, in Cais do Sodré, they Adão’s experiments. The menu meat – a process ranging from or two at the end. Taberna do Minho, 7€), Iberian pork loin come in true American style. is simple: eight grill courses, 45 to 200 days – is Vítor Sobral’s Calhau, located in a square in (7€) and grilled bell pepper salad They’re made with organic beef paired with chef-selected wines, major bet. He also commands the Mouraria, is a small project (6€). Heartier dishes include the and served in a lightly toasted all prepared using seasonal kitchen at other restaurants in with an educational aspect. unmissable duck rice. à Calçada brioche bun. “Hamburgers: the ingredients and a touch of the Lisbon, such as Tasca da Esquina At the restaurant, you can also da Ajuda 14 (Belém). 939 482 939. Tue-Sat cornerstone of any nutritious chef’s creative madness. à Rua da or Peixaria da Esquina. Talho da purchase wine and olive oil. 12.30pm-11pm. breakfast”, Jules Winnfield, the Bela Vista à Graça 128 (Graça). 913 170 487. Esquina is the first to focus solely à Largo das Olarias 23 (Mouraria). 215 character played by Samuel K. Wed-Sun 7.30pm. (70€ for the 8-course menu, on meat. To start with, you could 851 937. Mon, Wed-Sat midday-3pm & Essencial à Jackson in Pulp Fiction, said as with a drink). try the bell peppers with peri- 7pm-midnight, Sun 7pm-midnight. In André Lança Cordeiro’s he chomped into a succulent peri (8.50€) or the duck pie with kitchen, less is more. burger from Hawaiian burger Eneko Lisboa explained to customers. There rocket and pineapple and orange Dear Breakfast At Essencial, dishes are an chain Big Kahuna. At Dallas, Basque chef Eneko Atxa, are two menus: Adarrak (125€, chutney (9.50€). From the grill, The name doesn’t lie. If you’re ode to minimalism, though you don’t get to eat burgers first who was in charge of the 14th drinks excluded) and Erroak the goat with roast potatoes after a slow breakfast or light flavour and careful aesthetics thing in the morning, but you can best restaurant in the world (110€, drinks excluded). Wine stands out (28€), followed by the meals, this is your jam. The are plentiful. Options rotate, incarnate Quentin Tarantino’s (Azurmenid, in Spain) has pairing for 75€ or 85€ is also national Black Angus thick rib décor has a minimalist feel, but every so often you can get 1994 film character – that’s opened Eneko Lisboa, in an option. à Rua Maria Luísa Holstein steak (14€) or the Black Angus abounding in white, with bowl or pancake options. And on across the country – Trás-os- lobster with daikon (11€), pâté where they drew inspiration Alcântara, which is a two-in-one. 15 (Alcântara). 215 833 275. Tue-Sat chuck steak (64€/kg). To finish, marble tables and seats with weekends, their brunch menu Montes to Algarve. Most options en croûte with pickles (9€), from for the vintage décor, after On one side, there’s Basque, 7.30pm-10.30pm. desserts include chocolate and pink velvet details, distributed includes a refill on alcoholic on the menu are for sharing stuffed courgette flower (7€), all – and take a picture in one serving traditional Basque sour cherry mousse (6€) burnt over two floors. The huge beverages. à Calçada de São Francisco and petiscos (like Portuguese sole with pointed cabbage (19€) of the booths with red seats, in dishes to share in a noisier Grenache passionfruit cream (5.50€), windows looking out onto 35 (Chiado). Mon-Fri 9am-4pm, Sat-Sun tapas) are a mainstay. They have or some flavoursome pork classic diner fashion, before and more festive atmosphere; This restaurant in the heart of baba de camelo (5€) or honey Calçada de São Francisco are 9am-5pm. coentrada de Coelho (rabbit cheeks (17€). As for dessert, you ordering one of the house’s on the other side, they serve Palácio Belmonte, located near and orange flan (6€). à Rua Correia the perfect picture-postcard cooked in lots of coriander, can’t miss the incredible salted burger options. à Travessa dos tasting menus in a smaller, more the São Jorge castle, is a fine Garção 15 (São Bento). 213 900 997. Mon setting for a photo, tram in the O Frade à 8.50€), chorizo from Alentejo caramel mille-feuille (5€). ■ Remolares 41 (Cais do Sodré). Mon-Sun intimate setting, where the blend of French cuisine and the 7.30pm-11.30pm, Tue-Sat 12.30pm-3.30pm background included. The O Frade is all about traditional (7.50€) and estupeta de atum à Rua da Rosa 176 (Bairro Alto). 211 573

midday-midnight. food is mindfully prepared and chef’s creative flair. The menu & 7.30pm-11.30pm. INÊS FÉLIX PHOTOGRAPHY: MANUEL MANSO; DUARTE DRAGO; MANUEL MANSO PHOTOGRAPHY: DUARTE DRAGO; menu is brimming with egg, cuisine, serving dishes from (wet-salted tuna, 7€). But also 713. Tue-Sat 7.30pm-11pm.

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Tantura Finding Middle Eastern cuisine in Lisbon is becoming progressively more common. And Tantura, THE LIST named after a village north of Tel Aviv, brings Israeli EAT delicacies to Bairro Alto Restaurants by price, in and around the city by the hands of Elad and Itamar, who also combine influences from North Africa, the Middle East and Southern Europe. Beyond UNDER 10€ canteen, which offers an Indian the obvious hummus, served cuisine buffet for 8€ at lunchtime with homemade pita bread and 10€ at dinnertime. Dishes cooked in a wood-fired oven, The Food Temple change daily and there is no you must try the traditional Seasonality is old news at The menu, and thus no space for crispy borrecas (puff pastry Food Temple, they have lived indecision. There is also no with different fillings) or the by it for yonks. The project was alcohol, or cutlery. A minor various types of shakshouka, created by Alice Ming, Canadian inconvenience, seeing as the roti the basis of which is eggs with Chinese origins, and dishes (a type of Indian bread) does the poached in tomato sauce. vary daily, according to the type job perfectly. Meat, fish and eggs Forget about the tricky menu of fresh produce available in don’t have a place in this kitchen names and just take a chance. the markets. This vegetarian – vegetarians rejoice! – where à Rua da Trombeta, 1D (Bairro Alto). temple always serves soup, main dishes usually comprise 21 809 6035. Tue-Sat 6.30-midnight. dishes to share, a main dish and a dhal and two stews, and there homemade desserts that will have are always sides like soup, white you drooling before you even rice and legumes. à Alameda Mahatma organic pizza restaurant in play safe. On Sundays, they serve You can go for chicken breast or The model is simple: authentic reach the table. When the weather Gandhi, Complexo Comunidade Hindu. Bairro Alto – yes, there is more desayuno, the Mexican version the famous Korean wings, but Lebanese food made with is favourable, you can dine out on 21 752 4982. Tue-Sun midday-2,30pm & than just bars around these parts of brunch. à Rua da Boavista, 16 (Cais the crown jewel is the chicken Portuguese ingredients. The the uneven streets of Mouraria or 7.30pm-9.30pm. now – with a menu comprising do Sodré). Mon 6pm-midnight, Tue-Fri midday- waffle burger-fried chicken restaurant offers a very rich and at an indoor community table. It’s 12 pizzas made with certified 3pm & 6pm-midnight, Sat 6pm-midnight, Sun in savoury waffles instead of varied selection of dishes, so all part of the experience. à Beco do O Maravilhas local and Italian ingredients. 7pm-midnight. bread. The combination is the best way to taste a little bit of Jasmim, 18 (Mouraria). 21 887 4397. Wed-Sun The name of this restaurant The pizza dough is made by risky, but a winner. à Rua Cecílio de everything is by ordering a few 7.30-midnight. (which roughly means “the pizzaiolo António Menghi using Sousa, 85 (Príncipe Real). 21 400 3108. Tue- mezze. Try the four different wonders”) is a spot-on description semi-wholegrain flour and it is Wed & Sun 6pm-midnight, Thu-Sat 6pm-2am. types of hummus, the chickpea Empanaderia El Pibe of all that’s served at this family fermented for 48 hours before and broad bean falafels or the Argentinian empanadas (pies, sort of) are very filling – very. business in Alcântara, the kitchen being cooked in a wood-fired Ao 26 - Vegan Food Project makanek beef sausages cooked Having lunch at this restaurant on Colina de Santana that serves of which has been handled by the oven. You can pair the pizzas with Vegan food is no longer in garlic and pomegranate sauce. empanadas with disruptive names (hello, Papa Francisco; hello same lady for over three decades. cold-pressed juices or the house synonymous with blandness. Pair everything with manuché, Che Guevara) is pocket-friendly and stomach-pleasing. There It has recently moved: from the wine, which is also organic. à Rua They have a sister branch, a typical homemade bread, are three menus: one includes a soup, two empanadas, a side old and always packed little tasca do Grémio Lusitano, 13 (Bairro Alto). 21 347 The Botanist, mostly focused served warm. à Rua da Moeda, 8 (Cais and a coffee, and will only set you back a cool 4,90€; by choosing to a larger space, in a nearby two- 1601. Mon-Sun midday-midnight. on brunch and snacks in Cais do Sodré). 21 158 0788. Sun-Thu midday- to have a juice instead of a coffee and a soup, your bill will go up floor house with much bigger do Sodré, but this one offers 3pm & 7.30-midnight, Fri-Sat midday-3pm & to 5,30€; the Lomito includes a veal sirloin steak sandwich with capacity. Still, the quality remains Pistola y Corazón beetroot or lentil burgers, thyme 7.30pm-1am. tomato, avocado, bacon and egg, plus a side and a coffee, all for the same. They offer different The queue is a permanent and lemon marinated seitan 6,90€. à Travessa de Santa Marta,4 (Avenida). 925984298. Mon-Thu midday-3pm & Portuguese specialties every fixture at this taqueria – luckily, sandwiches or non-dairy cheese Café Buenos Aires 7.30pm-10.30pm, Fri midday-3pm & 7.30pm-11pm, Sat 7.30pm-11pm. day and booking is advised – it is always made up of cheerful bolo do caco toasties. And do This restaurant on Calçada do

Mi Dai à especially for ensopado de cação people holding a Corona or try the raw nut tart, free from Duque looks out onto Castelo de Locals refer to is as cantina (dogfish stew) on Tuesdays, cocktail served in a bag in one artificial sugars and sweetened São Jorge and it is well-known chinesa (Chinese canteen), and ready to be slurped. à Calçada da veal pica-pau, fried squid, migas peas with poached eggs on hand, and nachos in the other. with dates and agave nectar. for its Argentinian steaks and you will have to spot the number Mouraria, 7 (Mouraria). 96 987 0825. Mon-Sun with asparagus and pork or fried Wednesdays or veal tongue with The wait will be worth it once you Yum. à Rua Vítor Cordon, 26 (Chiado). Mon handmade fresh pasta. In recent 7 on Calçada da Mouraria in order 10am-9pm. quail, depending on the day. The mashed potatoes on Thursdays. get to your table. You only really 12.30pm-3.30pm, Tue-Sat midday-11pm. years however, it has proved its

to find Mi Dai, as there is no name sheep’s cheese and paio (cured à Rua Gilberto Rola 20, (Alcântara). 961 951 need to be mindful of the level Crispy Mafya à mastery at working with seasonal on the door. Inside, you will find Taberna da Casa do Alentejo pork) grilled sandwich is also 129. Seg-Sex 10.30-22.30. of spiciness. Otherwise, there Crispy Mafya honours fried products, so the menu varies. an unpretentious room with a bar Taberna da Casa do Alentejo is a noteworthy – it is nicely packed are endless types of different chicken to the maximum. The UNDER 30€ To drink, they have tea from at the back where you can pick great place to have some early- and a good bet for a quick lunch. à tacos on the menu, including free-range chicken is marinated Companhia Portugueza do Chá, your ingredients, which will be evening nibbles with friends for Rua Portas de Santo Antão, 58 (Restauradores). UNDER 20€ vegetarian options, and at for several hours, parboiled Muito Bey owned by Sebastián Filgueiras, tossed into the wok. They will a reasonable price. At lunchtime 21 340 5140. Mon-Sun 10am-11pm. lunchtime they also serve tortas and then fried in a special spicy You can eat very well in Beirut, who was also partly responsible emerge enveloped in the scent they also serve their daily selection Valdo Gatti (sandwiches). If you’re feeling batter. It is the main part of and also in Cais do Sodré, thanks for the opening of Café Buenos of garlic, ginger and pepper. This of petiscos, with prices ranging Templo Hindu Radha Krishna Not going to this pizzeria more lavish, order the pork belly every dish and it is meant to to Lebanese owner and creator Aires 15 years ago. à Calçada do Martim Moniz gem has some between 5€ and 6,50€. These Eat well, affordably. Such is than once a week is the real scratchings taco with salsa roja. be eaten by hand (permission of the concept, Ezzat Ellaz, Duque, 31B (Chiado). 21 342 0739. Mon-Fri

good fish or meat noodle soups include Portuguese-style pork, the motto at Templo Hindu’s challenge. Valdo Gatti is an CLIFFORD; DUARTE DRAGO PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVID MANUEL MANSO PHOTOGRAPHY: ARLINDO CAMACHO; Or with salsa verde, if you want to to lick your fingers at the end). and his chef Joseph Youssef. 6pm-1am & Sat-Sun midday-1am.

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 50 51 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon Food & Drink Food & Drink

Pharmácia ceviche, like the quinoto do mar portuguesa, served religiously that of a typical Asian tavern, Mon-Thu midday-3.30pm & 7.30-11pm, Fri tasting menu (110€ plus It is housed in Museu da (with quinoa and seafood) or a every Wednesday. à Rua das Portas complete with rough wood 12.30pm-3.30pm & 7.30pm-midnight, Sat drinks) is divided into seven Farmácia’s building, which causa mista (a Peruvian salad). de Santo Antão, 150 (Avenida). 21 342 4253. and lamps made of fishing 12.30pm-midnight, Sun 12.30pm-11pm. parts, all named as though is why Susana Felicidade They don’t take bookings and Mon-Sat midday-3.30pm & 7pm-11pm. nets. You can choose to eat at they were parts of a book: decided to explore the world the space is small, so hold your the counter, which can seat 11 cover, foreword, chapters, of old pharmacies, recreating ground. While you wait, gawk at Boi-Cavalo people facing the chef, and order OVER 50€ afterword and conclusion. the style in the restaurant’s the enormous octopus hanging No two weeks are alike, there are pad thai, homemade bao, goat We recommend you take your décor. Pharmácia is defined by from the ceiling above the pretty no house specialties or famous samosas or chirashi bowls. On 100 time there, after all you can’t a creative cuisine with a Tagus- 4.5-metre counter. à Rua Dom Pedro dishes. Going to Boi-Cavalo, the lower level, you will find a 100, by Ljubomir Stanisic, rush through a book and enjoy infused, traditional Portuguese V, 129 (Príncipe Real). 21 803 8815. Seg-Dom chef Hugo Brito’s restaurant in bar serving signature cocktails is an exciting, rock-infused it. And remember this book backbone. Treatment starts 12.30-00.00. the heart of Alfama’s historic and four carefully decorated journey, not only around the is frequently edited, so there with a selection of petiscos to district, implies an open mind, private rooms for those of you world, but also through the may be variations according share – the chef recommends and no restrictions or pickiness. seeking a more intimate setting chef’s life. The restaurant to seasonality and availability. three to four for two people – Their cuisine is founded on for your dining experience. is a blend of familiarity and In this kitchen, the chef will and some cold or hot soup. Try Portuguese flavours but it à Avenida de Roma, 100 (Alvalade). casual sophistication. Their only publish what is fresh and the signature cocktails from the takes a daring turn every so seasonal. à Rua do Teixeira,39 (Bairro bar. Doctor’s orders. à Rua Marechal often, both in their snacks and Alto).910918181. Mon-Sun 7pm-2am Saldanha, 1 (Bica). Mon-Sun midday-1am. main dishes. You can’t choose Pabe (kitchen stops at 10.30pm). individual dishes, but the After being closed for a period of time, this classic in the luxury à Chutnify tasting menu is pretty complete. restaurant scene, located in Marquês de Pombal, reopened – Chutnify popped up in 2017 à Rua do Vigário, 70B (Alfama). Sun & Tue- and the quality prevails. It was a hub for many journalists and and it was a breath of fresh air: Thu 8pm-1am, Fri-Sat 8pm-2am. politicians in the 80s and 90s, and it remains a suited doorman a modern Indian restaurant type of place, where service is formal and irreproachable, and the with older siblings in Berlin. Sala de Corte décor is defined by dark wood and carpeted floors. The cuisine is The menu is heavily influenced As you walk in, you will see a classic and, in addition to solid daily specials, they have a “catch

by Indian street food, starting Boa-Bao à ripening chamber filled with of the day” trolley of fresh fish and a lovely selection of traditional with the dosas, a cone-shaped Boa-Bao offers comforting various cuts of meat, eight dishes that include lamb and bacalhau à minhota (Minho-style crepe with different fillings bowls of thai rice noodle soups in fact, among which are the cod). à Rua Duque de Palmela, 27A (Marquês de Pombal). 21 353 5675. Seg-Dom that you eat with your hands. with shrimp and chicken, T-Bone and the Galician oxtail, 12.00-00.00. But there are other traditional Attla sichuan with egg noodles and all matured for 30 days. Start dishes available, like the bagara Free from the formality – and price tag – of a fine dining duck, or even egg and pork off with a selection of snacks

baingan. The best way to try a restaurant yet resembling one in technique, careful plating dumplings. Belgian chef Chris outside and then move into the Taberna Fina à little bit of everything is to order and mindful service. The space has an open-plan kitchen and a Gielen travelled across Asia and 100-seat dining room, which An incursion into fine the tasting menu. à Travessa da bar counter, and it does away with pretentious ornaments. On brought to Chiado traditional includes a bar counter and an dining, customers at Taberna Palmeira, 46 (Príncipe Real). 21 346 1534. the menu, you will find the couvert, appetisers, main dishes recipes from Thailand, indoor patio. à Praça D. Luis I, 7 (Cais Fina will be in the hands Mon-Wed 7pm-11pm, Thu-Fri 7pm-midnight, and desserts. Dive into the conglioni with game alheira (a type Vietnam, Cambodia, Malaysia, do Sodré). 21 346 0030. Mon-Thu midday- of the chef, with tasting Sat-Sun midday-5pm & 7pm-midnight. of Portuguese sausage), grilled shallots, pumpkin satay and Korea, Japan and China. There 4pm & 7pm-midnight, Fri midday-4pm & menus focused on seasonal crumbled broa (corn bread), or opt for the sea bass ceviche with are drinks to match, from tiki 7pm-1am, Sat midday-1am, Sun midday- products. The two dining a carrot and coconut sauce, radish, harissa mayonnaise and (with rum in exotic glasses) to midnight. rooms are cosy and dimly seaweed. à Rua Gilberto Rola, 65 (Alcântara). 93 250 9887. Wed-Sun 7pm-midnight. signature cocktails. à Largo Rafael lit, with marbled tabletops Bordalo Pinheiro, 30 (Chiado). Sun-Thu and just over 20 seats, from midday-11pm, Fri-Sat midday-12.30am. which you will likely see tachinho like the paella negra. day, whether that is the cuts of Bordallo Pinheiro’s bovine And they have a worthy match meat or the varieties of fish. Solar dos Presuntos heads, displayed on one of the for the food: a vermouth bar. à Travessa das Pedras Negras, 2 (Sé). 21 Step in unattached to the walls. à Praça Luís de Camões, 22, à Rua Dom Pedro V, 81 (Príncipe Real). 21 053 4649. Wed-Sat midday-midnight, Sun amount you are willing to spend 1st floor (Chiado). 93 859 6429. Tue-Sat 342 0681. Mon-Sun midday-midnight. midday-6pm. but walk firmly and rest assured 7pm-11pm. that the food does the true A Cevicheria Portuguese flavours justice. It Seen UNDER 40€ Kiko Martins ate his way around is the place for regional cuisine Seen is located on the top floor the world before setting up from Minho - alta cozinha of Tivoli Avenida Hotel. The Prado shop in Lisbon with a range de Monção, as they proudly majestic real tree trunk inside

Tapisco António Galapito grew a of different restaurants. announce at the entrance. Don’t Soão à the bar and artificial leaves Owned by Henrique Sá Pessoa, prairie (prado) by Sé. The Cevicheria opened in 2014 hesitate to order the thinly This pan-Asian restaurant lining most of the ceiling lend this little restaurant is part of restaurant focuses on cattle and and started a buzz in the sliced cured ham, the ones takes you on a journey through a tropical flair to this bar and the Multifood group and serves organic vegetables, only using city surrounding Peruvian hanging on display, to ready six countries without ever restaurant – and the view is tapas and petiscos, bringing ingredients that producers tell cuisine. They serve Peru’s your stomach for a specialty leaving Alvalade, its home incredible. The menu is a trip, Spain and Portugal together. him are good, so there is no fixed most traditional dish in its such as the lobster and shrimp neighbourhood. The extensive from pasta to sushi, and you The prices are reasonable and menu. It was the only restaurant purest form – with white fish, rice. At Solar, you can be sure menu includes dishes from cannot miss the Seen king you can dine at one of their few that was awarded five stars by mashed sweet potatoes, onions, to find good lamprey, when it Japan, India, China, Vietnam, crab tacos. à Avenida da Liberdade, tables or at the counter. Start food critic Alfredo Lacerda in seaweed and tiger’s milk – as is in season. During the cold Korea and Thailand – and tea 185. 21 319 8640. Mon-Thu 6pm-1am,

with a tapisco and follow with a 2018. Something changes every well as varying dishes beyond months, don’t miss the cozido à PHOTOGRAPHY: FRANCISCO SANTOS; MANUEL MANSO ARLINDO CAMACHO PHOTOGRAPHY: MANUEL MANSO; DUARTE DRAGO; ceremonies. The vibe resembles Fri-Sat 6pm-2am.

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 52 53 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon The concept was created from scratch in 2014 by Time Out Portugal’s team and – we dare say – it was one of the city’s greatest, most innovative and creative exports in The best recent years. A hall over ten thousand square feet, bursting with dozens of of the city under restaurants and delicacies by famous and award- winning chefs, Time Out Market can be quite a challenge for the indecisive. one roof In order to help you, we put together a list of 15 dishes you absolutely must try.

WHAT IS THE NAME OF a prominent media and leisure business doing on the façade of a historical market hall? And why

is a team of journalists running one Sirloin steak à of the world’s largest gourmet food CAFÉ DE SÃO BENTO €23.80 courts? These answers, and more, The most expensive item on this list await you at Time Out Market. (perhaps in the entire market food hall), It features the editorial team’s but we’re talking about a sirloin steak selection of best projects and averaging 190 grams, lathered in a sauce businesses in Lisbon, which are made of butter, cream (by legendary allowed to operate in the market Portuguese brand Longa Vida), flower from a week to three years. of salt and black pepper. Only a few If it’s good, it goes in the magazine; ingredients, but there’s science in the if it’s great, it goes in the market. process of mixing them, searing the meat There are currently 24 restaurants, (lightly, you’re supposed to eat it rare) and eight bars, a dozen shops and using the beef’s juices. That is why it’s a high-end music venue, all been a city classic for 35 years. offering the very best of Lisbon

(the best steak, the best burger, Roast pork sandwich à the best sushi and the best live BALCÃO DA ESQUINA €7 performances, among others). Vítor Sobral and his team set up shop The Time Out Market experience in the Time Out Market in the summer was so successful that it is of 2016. He then launched a menu full already being replicated of appetisers and snacks, including this in New York, Miami and Boston, spit-roasted Bísaro pork sandwich. and new markets are due to open The pork is sliced and served with tomato, in Chicago, Montreal, Dubai, rocket, purple onions and a mustard

PHOTOGRAPHY: FERNANDO GUERRA London and Prague by 2022. emulsion.

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Dandy prego The best one is still the traditional meat O PREGO DA PEIXARIA €8.50 croquette though, with a flavourful filling Lisbon knows the story well. A seafood (the meat is stewed with onions, celery, restaurant, the most popular dish of which chorizo, garlic and bay leaf) and served turned out to be a prego, a steak served with homemade mustard. in bolo do caco bread. The dish was so successful that it resulted in the creation Fried soft-shelled crab of Prego da Peixaria (which means “fish MARISQUEIRA AZUL €10.80 market steak Steak”). The lesser known Besides some great puntillitas, gooseneck fact is that the menu has been reshuffled. barnacles from the Berlengas islands or At the market, you may choose from crab steak, the market’s seafood restaurant among several steak cuts and have them has a winning dish: the soft-shelled crab. on bread or on a plate, with varying recipes You eat all of it and leave nothing on the and ingredients. The highlight, however, is plate (not even the legs). It is breaded with still the Dandy: rump steak in bolo do caco, corn flour and fried; then served with topped with São Jorge cheese, onions and tartare sauce and a squeeze of lemon. iceberg lettuce. chocolate; and the toppings include bonbons, candied almonds, chocolate or à Creamy rice à Bulhão Pato Chocolate Bomb cookie bits. Tantalising. with pink swordfish NÓS É MAIS BOLOS €4.75 (slice) MARLENE VIEIRA €11

To be perfectly clear, this is a chocolate Traditional meat croquette à Marlene Vieira’s Time Out menu includes bomb prepared by a Cuban woman who CROQUETERIA €1.50 five different rice dishes, and they are lives in Lisbon. To let you know what The market’s three croquetteers (indulge all worth trying. We picked this one in you’re in for, here are the basics of the cake: us and pretend there is such a word) particular, and not at random. The recipe Polvo Assado & Chouriço à the dough is made from ice cream cone expanded the traditional Portuguese borrows the flavours of coriander and O SURF & TURF €16.40 wafer and chocolate biscuit; the filling is croquette family and gave it a few lemon from a traditional clam dish and Chef Kiko is known for opening restaurants a 54% Callebaut chocolate mousse and brothers, including cuttlefish, chicken and tops them with sliced pink swordfish. inspired by his world travels. He brought caramel mix; the icing is 100% Callebaut farinheira varieties. And they are all great. It’s a signature dish, for sure. surf-and-turf to Time Out Market, a concept that blends together land and sea. Polvo Assado & Chouriço does just that, combining octopus from our shores and pork from our lands, served with olive oil, garlic and sweet potato.

Mixed board à MANTEIGARIA SILVA €11 Manteigaria Silva’s window display of cheese and charcuterie will do to a snack- loving adult what a well-stocked toy does to a child: you’ll be overwhelmed by the sight and may wish to take everything home. You can order individual servings of each cheese or sausage or try one of their famous fig and ham platters (when in season). Or just make your life easier and order the mixed board, with two of three cheeses (sheep, goat or cow), a special ham, and plain and toasted bread and cornbread. Lamb chops PAP’AÇORDA €23 A classic in Manuela Brandão’s repertoire, lamb chops have been a part of Pap’Açorda’s menu for 35 years. You can have them breaded or grilled – just between us though, the former is much better. They’re seasoned with garlic, lemon juice and salt, breaded and coated in really thin breadcrumbs. They are usually served with puréed spinach and chips, but side

PHOTOGRAPHY: MANUEL MANSO; LUIS FERRAZ LUIS FERRAZ PHOTOGRAPHY: DUARTE DRAGO; dishes vary.

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 56 57 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon AF_Lisboa_Card_206x276mm.pdf 1 21/10/2019 14:51:35

Food & Drink

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Bacalhau à Brás, the classic à 64-degree egg Pastéis de nata CM CHEF MIGUEL CASTRO E SILVA CHEF HENRIQUE SÁ PESSOA €9.50 MANTEIGARIA €1 €9.50 Scrambled, fried, hot, Benedict, poached: You can hear cabs honking, the number 28 MY

You don’t mess with perfection. This cod Lisbonites are used to finding all kinds of tram chugging and young people yapping CY dish is such a classic that it could feature egg concoctions in the city’s restaurants, by the statue in the famous Praça de CMY in any compendium of Portuguese cuisine, but this dish by chef Sá Pessoa is a very Camões, in central Lisbon. In recent years, and this Porto-born chef stays true to specific variant – one you probably can’t a new sound joined that symphony – one K tradition, preparing it with hand-cut chips, replicate at home, unless you own the that means sweetness. It’s the bell from well-shredded cod and onions. The end right tools. The egg is cooked at 64 degrees Manteigaria, rung every time a new batch is result is creamy and enhanced by the chef’s Celsius and served with an excellent truffle out of the oven. They make some of Lisbon’s final touch: some of the egg yolks are only purée, green asparagus and sliced ham. best pastéis de nata, which were then added just before the dish is served. brought to Mercado da Ribeira, aka Time Out Market. The secret of their custard pies, they claim, is in the artisanal production and the quality of the ingredients – whole eggs, butter (not margarine) and sugar.

Nigiri duel (fresh cod and sardine) SEA ME €12.50 (4 unidades) Sea Me’s mothership, in Chiado, is an ode to the ocean. Dive into their Time Out Market branch and try the famous nigiri duel, which includes a fresh cod and a grilled sardine nigiri. It’s a surprising and addictive fusion of Portuguese and Japanese cuisine.

Pork belly confit à CHEF ALEXANDRE SILVA €9.50 Exclusively produced for the market, the suckling pig belly confit is a mainstay of chef Alexandre Silva’s stall from day one. The pork is oven-roasted for four and a half hours and served with teriyaki sauce, a side of potato and pea mash and pak choi cabbage. ■ à Mercado da Ribeira, Avenida 24 de Julho. +351 213 951

274. Sun-Wed, 10.00-00.00; Thur-Sat, 10.00-02.00. PHOTOGRAPHY: LUIS FERRAZ

58 59 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon Food & Drink

WINE Lisbon is also a wine One of the few capital cities with a wine region named after it and the only one with vineyards practically touching city lines. A wealth of wine, tours and tastings just a few kilometres from the city centre.

OF THE MANY REASONS for visiting Lisbon, the fact that it’s a wine region is one of the less obvious: the area produces great wine, full of character, and with adjacent hotels to be discovered. So much so that international trade press singled out Lisbon as one of the best wine destinations of 2019. This wine region covers approximately 18 thousand hectares of vine, nine Protected Designations of Origin (Alenquer, Arruda, Bucelas, Carcavelos, Colares, Encostas d’Aire, Lourinhã, Óbidos and Torres Vedras) and a Protected Geographical Designation. This is the Portuguese wine region which exports the highest percentage of its certified production (of non-sparkling wines), to over 80 countries. Every year the quality of these wines improves. To help you discover this area, we have ten suggestions of great wines to try right now. At the end of the list, we’ve added a bonus product, another treasure produced in the Lisbon wine region.

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 60 61 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon Food & Drink Food & Drink

Mira Arinto 2016 fruit, in a well composed finished product. from the Touriga Nacional. This wine BUCELAS 17,50€ The taste is serious with good acidity, is very connected to its terroir in Serra WHITE full or flavour and freshness, vivacious. de Montejunto, where vineyards collide This Bucelas Arinto is produced by C2O, Very good price for the quality. A product with the ocean. Grand’arte Alvarinho 2017 and is quite unique in character. Slightly which carries the old Roman name for the PAIRS WELL WITH: Peas or broad beans with LISBON 6€ austere tasting, smoky and almost metallic, city will always make a good souvenir. poached eggs (another must-try Portuguese the aroma grows on you. Well balanced PAIRS WELL WITH: very versatile red which pairs tradition), red meat in general. A wonderful Lisbon Alvarinho produced taste, citrusy and perfect in terms of well with any meat dish, with a peppery side of by DFJ winery, this wine is floral, citrusy acidity. You’ll be sad when the bottle is sautéed greens for example. and slightly mineral in aroma. It is precise empty. It will leave you wanting more. Quinta de Pancas Grande Reserva in its acidity, pleasantly grassy, with PAIRS WELL WITH: Clams with garlic and Dory Reserva 2016 2015 lemon and orange, soft on the palate, with coriander (another Portuguese dish), oysters and LISBON 11,95€ LISBON 29€ a long finish. An interesting interpretation both lean and oily fish. of the Alvarinho grape which will not Produced by Adega Mãe, this wine is This wine is a paradox of elegance and disappoint. made with Touriga Franca, Touriga power, in the best possible way. Touriga PAIRS WELL WITH: White fish such as sea bass Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Nacional, Alicante Bouschet and Petit and will hold its own with spicier foods such as a ROSÉ Verdot, and is worth every cent. Rich and Verdot, form a fantastic bouquet, chickpea curry. deeply aromatic, fruity with fennel and with the former providing citrus and Casal de Santa Maria a lot of pepper. Incredibly fresh and well flowers and the other two providing Mar de Rosas 2018 structured, slightly grassy and spicy. Full herbaceous touches. Lots of fruit, Quinta do Monte d’Oiro 2018 LISBON 22,50€ of punch, gets better if aged in the bottle. complexity, sophistication, balance. LISBON 9€ PAIRS WELL WITH: Any duck dish, such as Super seductive! A triad of Touriga Nacional, Pinot Noir magret or fois gras, and even cod, if not overly spicy. PAIRS WELL WITH: Anything equally This white wine has Viognier, Marsanne and Syrah grapes, makes for a smooth sophisticated, balanced and elegant. Never fails. and Arinto grape varieties, with an aroma wine, with volume and acidity, delicate but of pears and tart apples, both herby and expressive berries, with noticeable hints of Quinta da Boa Esperança Touriga floral. Very elegant tasting, never over the the 6 months spent aging in barrels. Well Nacional 2016 top in its fruitiness, with well-balanced defined and active flavour which does not LISBON 15,90€ BRANDY (AGUARDENTE) acidity and a soft, long finish. fade. The name of the wine pays homage to PAIRS WELL WITH: Chicken, seafood and grilled the founder’s wife, who loved roses. After Ripe berries and dried flowers, this wine Quinta do Rol Aguardente fish. her death he had the property, Casal de displays some of the salt content of its Vínica Velha XO Santa Maria, covered in roses to remember terroir. It is vivid, crisp and citrusy. Light LOURINHÃ 65€ her by. The wine is equally beautiful. but with a long finish, it is a wonderful Morgado de Sta. Catherina PAIRS WELL WITH: Any type of pasta, even spicier and serious Touriga Nacional! The brandy from Lourinhã is a fitting Reserva 2016 or vegetarian options. PAIRS WELL WITH: Grilled veal, filet mignon, end to this list since it is one of the only 3 BUCELAS 9,60€ steak in a pepper sauce and mushrooms. official brandy regions in the world. The other 2 are very well know: Cognac and Produced by Sogrape, one of the largest Armagnac. in the domestic market, the golden RED Chocapalha Vinha Mãe 2013 João Paulo Martins, of Grandes white is fresh and clearly fruity. LISBON 22€ Escolhas Magazine, defines it as a fine Elegant, with perfect acidity, very fresh, Olissipo 2013 specimen, smooth and velvety, very this is an exquisite wine and an excellent LISBON 4,95€ A complex red with Tinta Roriz, elegant, pure and well-defined aroma, choice. Touriga Nacional and Syrah. Fruity, fresh and with hints of wood, caramel PAIRS WELL WITH: Pigs trotters with coriander Quinta de São Bartolomeu makes this crisp, with hints of wood, to create an and nuts. ■ (typically Portuguese dish), mushroom pie or any wine with Alicante Bouschet and Touriga impressive bouquet. Elegant body, PLEASE NOTE: The brandy glass should not be light dish with some fat content. Nacional grape varieties, full of dark, red light, expressive with a floral undertone heated and the bottle should be stored upright.

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 62 63 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon Around At these terraces, Town summer lingers on Don’t let the cold deter you from venturing out of the house and into Lisbon’s light. Many terraces offer blankets, heaters and awnings so that you can take shelter from the breeze and seize the late afternoons, drink and nibble in hand.

FERROVIÁRIO à and cheese platter. There are group menus from 5pm to 7pm it is buy one get one As it gets colder, Ferroviário becomes if you’re travelling with friends. à Rua Monte free for any of the cocktails. Things will much like a conservatory, in all its fairy Olivete, 32 A. Mon-Sun 12am-12pm. certainly heat up after that… à Rua de Santa tale glory – the terrace is mostly covered, Catarina, 17. Tue- Sat 12am-12pm. there are blankets on the sofas and MADAME PETISCA pendant lights hanging from the ceiling. River views, the bridge and a blanket to CAFÉ NA FÁBRICA Everything is covered in plants, giving keep you warm – the good things in life. This vintage dollhouse coffee shop off tropical vibes. Part of the terrace is Madam Petisca’s terrace is postcard-pretty, understands the magic of an outdoor a restaurant with a snacks menu or full or in modern day terms, a great Instagram patio and, even in colder weather, meals. Before flying in, check out their backdrop. Every week they have different outdoor tables and benches stay put and Facebook page, for an update on their lunch menus and snacks to share (house the lights are on just like on a summer many parties and events. à Rua de Santa rules), such as Portuguese charcuterie night in June. On the weekend, there’s Apolónia, 59. Wed-Thu 6pm-2am, Fri 6pm-3am, Sat 2pm-3am (€19) or scrambled eggs and fries (€6). a brunch special (€13,5), blankets and and Sun 5pm-12pm. Happy hour is still popular in winter, so heaters and lots of room for the children to run round while parents watch over TOPO CHIADO à them. During the week there are toasted Even though it is huge (1500m2), this sandwiches and salads and you can warm place is rarely empty. At this time of up with a glass of wine at the end of the year, they bring out the heaters and the day. à Rua Rodrigues Faria, 103. 96 738 2848. Mon-Sun blankets and this year there’s even a tent. 9.30am-11pm. mail@ cafedafabrica.com Besides burgers, pizza and salads, there are weekend and public holiday brunch menus THE INSÓLITO (12am-4pm, €16), and it’s one of the few One thing is for sure, come rain or shine, places in the city where you can get warm this terrace provides uninterrupted views cider. à Terraços do Carmo. Sun- Thu 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun of the castle. For colder days, the heaters 11am-12pm. are turned on and the blankets are laid out and the entire terrace can be closed BOUBOU’S off with retractable awnings – you don’t Príncipe Real in known for its private really need a jacket. There’s finger food to gardens which can be used as outdoor quiet your hunger at the end of a long day seating areas, such as Boubou’s. At this and classic cocktails with a twist – such time of year, it is partly covered and the as the Holy-Sipo with vodka, lemon juice, blankets are laid out at each table, with pineapple, ginger and mint, a very good the outdoor heaters turned on. Ideal for antidote to the flu. à Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara,

PHOTOGRAPHS: MANUEL MANSO a house cocktail or a classic glass of wine 83. Mon-Sun 6pm-1am.

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 64 65 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon MUST SEE Museums, monuments and sights you should’t miss

Museu do Aljube There are some fascinating exhibition includes unique MUSEUMS This little museum near the products of the stylistic mix maps and charts, priceless Sé Cathedral opened in 2015 fostered by the 15th- and 17th- and 18th-century Chinese in a building with some dark 16th-century Discoveries and and Japanese painted screens Museu de Lisboa memories. The Aljube was an empire, such as Indo-Portuguese and other Namban (Western- The 18th-century Pimenta Palace ecclesiastical prison, then a jail cabinets with legs in the form of influenced) art, and an important houses this city-run museum for women and, from 1928, a buxom women or snarling tigers. collection of artefacts from charting Lisbon’s history. Some place where political prisoners The shop is excellent. à Rua das Timor. The museum runs courses displays are skimpy, but they were held by the dictatorship Janelas Verdes, 17. 21 391 2800. Tue, 2-6pm; on everything from languages cover the ground as best they of Salazar. The political police Wed-Sun, 10am-6pm. €6; €3 reductions; free to cuisine and ikebana, as well as can, starting with the Stone were key to the regime’s under-12s & all 1st Sun of mth. hosting concerts of Asian, fusion Age and working through functioning, and the museum’s and world music and dance. The Roman times to the Visigoths collections include documents Museu do Oriente top-floor restaurant (21 358 and Moors and into modern that reveal their role and that of The Portuguese were the first 5258) has fine views. à Avenida de

NOOBAI à times. The highlights, though, the censorship. à Rua Augusto Rosa, Europeans to have an enduring Brasília, Doca de Alcântara (21 358 5200/ Noobai has been playing the best terrace are a scale model of Lisbon 42.10.00 a.m.- 6.00 p.m. Tue-Sun. Admission presence in Asia and the www.museudooriente.pt). Train to Alcântara game for some time, regardless of the before the 1755 Earthquake, free. Museum of the Orient, opened Mar from Cais do Sodré/bus12. Open 10.00 season. It’s a favourite for end of day the fabulous kitchens and the in 2008, tells the story. The core a.m.-6.00 p.m. Tue-Sun, 10.00 a.m.-10.00 drinks with sunset and a view. The cold is formal garden with its peacocks. Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga p.m. Fri. Admission €6; free under-6s; €2 secondary: there are blankets and outdoor Also in the garden, the modern Housed in a 17th-century under-12s, students; €3,50 over-65s. Free to heaters on both floors. The menu is Pavilhão Branco is an important former palace, the National Museu Nacional all Fri 6-10pm. quite long, but a glass of wine is the most contemporary art space.à Palácio Museum of Ancient Art is the do Azulejo common item ordered at this time of year Pimenta, Campo Grande, 245. Metro Campo only truly comprehensive view The Tile Museum, housed Museu Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro - and they always have a wine of the month Grande. 10.00 am-1 pm., 2.00-6.00 pm. Tue- of Portuguese art from the 12th in a former convent, charts Portuguese artist Rafael Bordalo (4,5€) – along with tea, ranging from Sun. 2€; 1€. Reductions; free under-13s & all to the early 19th centuries. the development of the art of Pinheiro (1846-1905) had a Gorreana green tea to lemongrass (2,5€). Sun 10 am-1pm. Its most prized possession is Portuguese azulejos since the ceramics factory in Caldas da à Miradouro de Santa Catarina. Mon-Sun 10am-12pm. 21 Nuno Gonçalves’s enigmatic 15th century, including a panel Rainha, producing fantastic, 346 5014. Museu do Chiado late 15th-century masterpiece, depicting Lisbon before the colourful designs. Examples Given a cool, modernist redesign usually known as the Panels of 1755 Earthquake and some here include a pig’s head on PARK in 1994 by French architect St Vincent, although its subject striking contemporary tiles. a platter and frogs climbing This parking lot on Calçada do Combro Jean-Michel Wilmotte, this is hotly disputed: some say the The building is a treat, with a up vases and poles. He was is for locals and tourists alike, all in museum has a permanent central figure is Dom Fernando, tiny Manueline cloister and also a caricaturist, using his search of one of the best views in the city collection that encompasses a the Infante Santo (holy prince) a barrel-vaulted church. The Portuguese everyman Zé – available all winter long with a new see- century of Portuguese art from who died in captivity in Fez shop sells superior tiles, and Povinho to puncture the

LE CHAT à what may, hold a slice of pizza in one hand through tent to keep the cold out. If you 1850, from Romanticism to in 1443. The collection also there’s a lovely café. à Rua da pomposity of public figures. This is one of the best outdoor bars in and a glass of prosecco in the other. do get cold, snuggle up with a blanket, Neo-realism. à Rua Serpa Pinto 4 (21 includes Flemish Renaissance Madre de Deus 4 (21 810 0340/ mnazulejo. à Campo Grande 382 (21 817 0667/ Lisbon, now under new management and à Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, Armazém B, Loja 7. Mon- next to one of the heaters, have a cocktail 343 2148/ www.museudochiado-ipmuseus. paintings (including a triptych imc-ip.pt/). Bus 718, 742, 794. Open www.museubordalopinheiro.pt). Metro Campo with a new look, plus theme nights and Sun 12.30am-1.30am or a charcuterie board. And dance to a DJ, pt). Metro Baixa-Chiado/tram 28. Open 10.00- by Hieronymous Bosch), 10am-6pm Tue-Sun (last entry 5.30pm). Grande. Open 10.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m. Tue-Sun. DJ sets. You also needn’t fear the cold and that’ll also help keep you warm. This is, 6.00 p.m. Tue-Sun (last entry 5.30). Admission Chinese porcelain, Indian Admission €5, €2.50 concessions, free Admission €1.50, €0.75 concessions. Free to can continue to enjoy the same river views CHAPITÔ after all, a hip-hop bar. à Calçada do Combro, 58, €4.50; €2.25 concs; free under-12s. furniture and African carvings. under-12s. Free for all 1st Sun. all Sun to 2pm. Temporary exhibitions free. with added blankets and heaters. Enjoy The views make this a great spot for Piso 6. Mon-Sat 1pm-2am. some food, try the steak sandwich and a Fall or Winter hideout. On the first floor order mulled wine (not on the menu but there is a panoramic restaurant ROYALE CAFÉ you can always ask for it – you might get and downstairs there’s a terrace serving There’s an outdoor terrace but it’s coziest lucky). à Jardim 9 de Abril, Janelas Verdes. Mon-Sun snacks and grilled food. The terrace inside with blankets and a large heater 12.30am-2am. gets covered for protection from the over the door. Still serving brunch on cold – with heaters and blankets for a little Sundays and cozy afternoon treats with CASANOVA extra help. This is also home to lots hot chocolate or tea – they now also do The cold doesn’t really make the lines of different events – Mondays there’s winter salads, home baked cake, and full- outside Casanova any shorter. This is a a crying club, Tuesdays are for Fado, on meals. If you like it busy, pick a table very popular pizza spot with river views and Fridays for samba. à Rua Costa do Castelo, outside and grab a blanket. ■ à Largo Rafael in both summer and winter. Heaters and 7. Tue-Sun 10pm -2am (Bartô) and Mon-Sun 12am-12pm Bordalo Pinheiro, 29. Mon-Fri 12am-12pm and Sat-Sun PHOTOGRAPHY: D.R. blankets will keep the cold at bay. Come (restaurant). 11am-12pm. MANUEL MANSO PHOTOGRAPHY: ARLINDO CAMACHO,

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 66 67 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon Around Town Around Town

the Baptist: its lavish ivory, are by Italian masters. Climb the Tue-Sat. Church free. Cloisters €2.50; €1.25 General Humberto Delgado, an São Jorge Castle MONUMENTS gold and lapis lazuli attests to 114 steps for fine views of the city. reductions; free under-11s. Treasury €2.50; opposition leader assassinated The hilltop was fortified even Portugal’s colonial wealth and à Pç Estrela. Church 7.30am-7.45pm daily. €1.25 reductions; free under-11s. Cloisters & by the secret police in 1962, before the arrival of the Roman extravagance. Built in Rome and Church free. Roof terrace €4; €2 reductions treasury €4, €2 reductions fado diva Amália Rodrigues and legions; in later centuries the Aqueduto das Águas Livres shipped to Lisbon in 1749 after footeball legend Eusébio. à Igreja castle walls were strengthened Lisbon’s aqueduct was built to being blessed by the Pope, it took Lisbon Cathedral National Pantheon de Sta Engrácia - Campo de Sta Clara. 21 885 by Visigoths and Moors, before supply the capital with fresh four years to reassemble, not least If you see a group of open- The dome of this church was 4820. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. €5; €2 reductions; falling to Portugal’s first king, water from the hills to the north. because of the detailed mosaic mouthed New World tourists completed in 1966, a mere free under-13s & all 1st Sun of mth Afonso Henriques, in 1147. Construction was funded by above the altar. The neighbouring in front of the cathedral, it’s 285 years after the building His statue stands in the square special levies on meat, olive oil museum contains items from normal. This romantic-style was begun; hence the Lisbon Jerónimos Monastery just past the main gate. The and wine. The structure started the chapel, including Italian building is very, very old. expression ‘a job like Santa Ordered by King Manuel I in castle itself has undergone functioning seven years before goldsmiths’ work, paintings and Construction started in 1147 Engrácia’ - one that takes memory of Prince Henry the numerous transformations. the 1755 Earthquake – and richly embroidered vestments. à and ended in the first decades forever. The church is on the site Navigator, this monastery has Back in the 1930s, several survived it well. The main span Largo Trindade Coelho. 21 235 444. Oct-Mar of the 13th century. The project, of an earlier one, which was torn been a National Monument government offices and a runs some 940m and comprises 2-6pm Mon; 9am-6pm Tue-Sun (with break for which includes three naves and a down after being desecrated by since 1907 and a UNESCO firehouse were removed from 35 ogival (pointed) arches, the mass 12.15pm Tue-Sat, 12.30pm Sun); Church triforium, a protruding transept a robbery in 1630. A Jew was World Heritage site since 1983. the grounds, exposing the largest rising 64m from the MAAT – Museu de Arte, Arquitetura e Tecnologia free. Museum €2.50; €1.25 reductions; free and a pew with three chapels, is blamed and executed, but later Built in the 16th century, it was walls, which were duly topped ground. From the top you get Its architectural shape was the highlight of 2016 and it made pretty under-15s & all Sun to 2pm. very similar to the Cathedral of exonerated. Before dying he donated at the time to the monks with supposedly authentic- giddy views of the city and the much everyone have a justifiable reason to visit Belém. Even if Coimbra. If some of these terms is said to have prophesied that of the Order of Saint Jerome, looking battlements. There Monsanto forest. Public access it’s just because this new building, designed by British architect Padrão dos Descobrimentos sounded strange, stay calm. You the new church would never be and in 2016 it became part of have been several makeovers (and guided visits) is organised Amanda Levete, and that sunset in the background are Instagram The original temporary can always present this venue as completed because an innocent the National Pantheon. The since then. The battlements by the Museu da Água. à Access material. But that’s only one reason to visit the place. Check the Monument to the Discoveries the place where, year after year man had been convicted. The monastery’s church (Igreja de of the Castelejo (keep) have from Calçada da Quintinha, Campolide (Museu calendar for current or upcoming exhibitions. àCentral Tejo, Avenida de was put up for the 1940 in June, young Lisbon couples first attempt at a new Santa Santa Maria de Belém) holds ten towers, which may be da Àgua 21 810 0215/ www.museudaagua. Brasília. BUS 714, 727, 751. Tram 15. 210 028 130 www.maat.pt Qua-Seg 12.00-20.00. 5€ Exhibition, and the permanent swear to love each other forever. Engrácia duly collapsed in the tombs of Luís de Camões, climbed; in one is a Cámara blogspot.pt). Bus 702. Open Mar-Nov 10.00 stone Salazarist glorification of If, however, you like history, 1681 (construction error, Vasco da Gama and King Obscura (10am-5pm) from a.m.-5.30 p.m. Tue-Sat. Admission €3. the Discoveries opened to the discover all the alterations the compounded by a storm, may Sebastian, whose remains were which you can see key city half. Nevertheless, it served as a into Lisbon harbour. It was public only in 1960. From the cathedral went through over have been to blame) and work brought there by King Philip in monuments and spy on people Convento do Carmo royal residence in the late 19th built on the orders of King Dom side, it takes the form of a tall the years and depending on the restarted the following year. The an attempt to put an end to the downtown, as well as learning Said by many to be Lisbon’s century. Some wings are open as Manuel (1495 - 1521), during oblong; at the base, sculpted preferences of each of Portugal’s new plan, by master stonemason popular belief that Sebastian how the contraption works. loveliest church, the Carmo a museum, while others house whose reign Portugal greatly figures of discoverers line a rulers. The gothic-style cloister, João Antunes, bears many would return to save Portugal. Beyond the keep is an area convent has been without a roof the Ministry of Culture. à Largo expanded it’s empire, namely stylised prow jutting over the for example, dates back to the similarities to Peruzzi’s plans for But few people actually believe where labelled displays trace since it fell in during the 1755 da Ajuda, Ajuda (21 363 7095/www.pnajuda. by discovering Brazil and the Tagus. They’re led by Prince reign of King Dinis (1279-1325), St Peter’s in Rome, and marble that these remains are those of out dwellings from prehistoric Earthquake. Lawn now carpets imc-ip.pt). Tram 18 or bus 729, 732. Open maritime way to India. The Tower Henrique, the Navigator (1394- while his successor, Afonso in various colours dominates the the Desired King. And let’s not times and the late Islamic what was once the main nave. At 10.00 a.m.-5.30 p.m. Mon, Tue, Thur-Sun (last has stonework motifs recalling 1460). Viewed head on, the IV, modified the rear area of interior. In 1916, the Republican forget the famous Pastéis de period, as well as the ruins of the back is the Archaeological entry 5.30 p.m.,no entry to the second floor). the Discoveries, among them monument appears as a giant the building. In the first half government decided the then Belém bakery is only 500 metres the last palatial residence on Museum, a ragbag of finds from Admission €5, €2.50 concessions, free under- twisted rope and the Catholic sword-cum-cross, its point of the 20th century, a large- still roofless Santa Engrácia away from the Monastery. à Praça this hill, destroyed by the 1755 around Europe. à Largo do Carmo 15s, free under-12s. Free for all 1st Sun. Crosses of Christ, as well as embedded in the riverbank, scale restoration project was would become the national do Império. Church free. Cloisters €10; €5 earthquake. à Rua de Santa Cruz do (21 346 0473/ museuarqueologicodocarmo. Lisbon’s patron saint St Vincent marking the entrance to the little undertaken to bring the edifice Pantheon, a temple to honour reductions; free under-13s & all 1st Sun of Castelo. Daily 9am-6pm (Nov-Feb) & Daily pt). Metro Baixa-Chiado or tram 28. Open Palácio Pimenta and a rhinoceros. à Avenida de Brasília, exhibition space. Inside there’s back to its original aspect. à Largo dead Portuguese heroes. Among mth. Combined ticket with Torre de Belém 9am-9pm (Mar-Oct). €8.50; €5 reductions; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat. Admission €3.50, €2.50 The 18th-century Pimenta Palace Belém. Oct-Apr 10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun €6; a lift to the top for fine views. da Sé.Church 9am-5pm Mon, Sun; 9am-7pm those since laid to rest here is €12. Oct-Apr Tue-Sun 10am-5.30pm. free under-11s concessions, free under-14s. houses this city-run museum May-Sep 10am-18.30 (last entrance at 17.30); As the sun follows its course, charting Lisbon’s history. Some closes on Mondays. €3 reductions; free under- the shadow of the monument Igreja e Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora displays are skimpy, but they 13s & all 1st Sun of mth. Combined ticket with traces the progress of Portuguese Rua Augusta Arch The church itself is worth a look, cover the ground as best they Mosteiro de Jerónimos €12 explorers around a marble map This is Lisbon’s own triumphal arch, but the old monastery remains can, starting with the Stone of the world on the square below. and it offers a gorgeous view. It was the main attraction. Its cloisters Age and working through São Roque Church Key dates, such as Vasco da commissioned in 1759 as part of the are richly decorated with early Roman times to the Visigoths The Igreja de São Roque was Gama’s rounding of the Cape of reconstruction of Lisbon following 18th-century tile panels, some and Moors and into modern built for the Jesuits with the Good Hope in 1498 and Pedro the 1755 earthquake, but the of which illustrate the fables of times. The highlights, though, assistance of Filippo Terzi on Álvares Cabral’s landing in Brazil famous Arch was only completed La Fontaine. Inside you’ll also are a scale model of Lisbon the site of an earlier chapel in 1500, are marked. à Avenida de in its current form in 1873. As a find the royal pantheon of the before the 1755 Earthquake, dedicated to São Roque (St Brasília. 21 303 1950. Oct-Feb 10am-6pm celebration of the grandeur of Braganza family, Portugal’s last the fabulous kitchens and the Roch). Most of the single-nave Tue-Sun. Mar 10am-7pm Tue-Sun. Apr-Sept the Portuguese Empire, which dynasty.à Largo de São Vicente (cloisters formal garden with its peacocks. structure was built between 10am-7pm daily. €4; €2 reductions; free discovered many new peoples 21 888 5652). Tram 28/bus 34. Church closed. One area harbours a display of 1565 and 1573, although it was under-13. and cultures, the top of the arch Cloisters 9.00 a.m.-1.00 p.m. 3.00 p.m.-5.00 giant ceramic works by Bordalo roofless for another decade. The reads “VIRTVTIBVS MAIORVM p.m. Tue-Sun (last entry 5pm). Admission €4; Pinheiro. Also in the garden, the ceiling is a wonder of sorts. The Basílica da Estrela VT SIT OMNIBVS DOCVMENTO. €2 concessions; free under-13s. modern Pavilhão Branco is an original architect had planned The ornate white dome of the PPD” which, roughly translated, important contemporary art a vaulted roof, but in 1582 a Basílica da Estrela is one of means “The Virtues of the Greatest, Palácio Nacional da Ajuda space.à Campo Grande, 245. 21 751 3200. decision was made to flatroof Lisbon’s best-loved landmarks. to serve as an example to all. Construction began in 1802, but 10am-1pm, 2-6pm Tue-Sun. €2; €1 reductions; the space in wood, and sturdy Construction took ten years Dedicated to public expenses.” A was interrupted in 1807 when free under-13s & all Sun 10am-1pm. timber from Prussia was richly (1779-89), with statues sculpted bit of Latin never hurt anyone. à Rua the royal family high-tailed it painted. The paintings in the by artists from the Mafra School. Augusta. 9am-7pm daily. €2.50; free under-6s. Joint to Brazil to escape Napoleon’s Torre de Belém inner sacristy are worth seeing, The church is richly decorated ticket with Lisbon Story Centre €8; €4.50-€6.50 armies. The palace was never The Tower of Belém was put but the main attraction is the inside with Portuguese marble, reductions; free under-6s PHOTOGRAPHY: ATL finished and still looks sawn in up to guard the river entrance side chapel dedicated to St John although many of the paintings PHOTOGRAPHY: ARLINDO CAMACHO

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 68 69 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon Shopping

Ladies of a certain age

We call them historical shops because they are over a hundred years old Garrafeira Manuel Tavares à and reveal some of the city’s character. But they also resist the pressures FOUNDED IN 1860 This place is a hybrid between wine shop, of time and fashion without compromising on the quality that has kept delicatessen, and general gourmet foods them relevant. Here are some favourites. purveyor. It is equally good on all fronts and you could easily leave with a bottle of port from your birth year or charcuterie from one of Portugal’s many regions. The basement

Fábrica Sant’Anna Caza das Vellas Loreto à houses most of the wine, including some FOUNDED IN 1741 FOUNDED IN 1789 very expensive and rare bottles. Although This is the founding year of the first tile Owned by the sixth generation of the very traditional, this store also has an online store to open on Rua de Sant’Anna à Lapa. Sá Pereira family’s, this store has been wine shop. Find it at www.manueltavares. The factory is now located in Ajuda and here since before Lisbon had electricity. com. à Rua da Betesga 1 A/B. 213 424 209. Mon-Sat has a showroom, which may end up being Permission to open was granted in 9.30am-7.30pm. the only place where you can see these exchange for two torches to serve as street products. They’ve had a shop on Rua do lights, at a time when sunset meant almost Barbearia Campos à Alecrim since 1916, which is very much total darkness. Back then, candles were FOUNDED IN 1886 worth a visit, but which risks closure as the made of animal fat and didn’t smell so good. In 2016, the most emblematic barbershop whole building was recently sold and will The founder, Domingos Sá Pereira, learnt in Lisbon reopened in Chiado with a new become a hotel. Ancestral and artisanal how to make beeswax candles in France and look. Up and running again, the shop has techniques are used to model and bake the that is still what they are known for today. recovered some of its heyday shine. There clay. You can order tiles with 16th century They carry candles for every budget and enfarinhado (almond dough, heavy on the makes doll clothing, repairs old clothes, was a time when each gentleman had patterns or have antique tiles restored. à Rua taste. à Rua do Loreto 53-55. 213 425 387. Mon-Fri icing sugar). à Praça da Figueira 18 B. 213 424 470. makes hair accessories and there is a his own utensils, when the barbershop do Alecrim 95. 213 422 537. Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-1pm. Mon-Thu 8am-8pm, Fri-Sat 8am-9pm, Sun 9am-9pm. museum with dolls dating back to the 19th catered to the royal family and well- century. Entry fee is 2€. à Praça da Figueira 7. 213 known intellectuals. The walls are covered Martinho da Arcada Confeitaria Nacional Hospital de Bonecas 428 574. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat 10am-6pm. in memorabilia, recalling a time when FOUNDED IN 1782 FOUNDED IN 1820 FOUNDED IN 1830 everything was gas-powered, and showing This is the oldest café in Portugal. The table Half of Lisbon had yet to be built and people Many years ago, Dona Carlota would sit Ginjinha Espinheira an insurance policy from 1886, the oldest at which Fernando Pessoa wrote many of were already stuffing their faces here. Much outside the shop mending rag dolls, unable FOUNDED IN 1840 available document and therefore used as a his poems is still reserved, but all other has changed but sugar levels are still high. to imagine that almost two hundred years This was the first place where ginjinha was reference to the year it first opened. tables are available for typical Portuguese This is where the first bolo-rei was made, later there would still be dolls to look after sold in Portugal (and the world), thanks to à Largo do Chiado 4. 213 428 476. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. food: cod fish cakes, green bean tempura, an adaptation of the French gâteau des rois, on this very same spot. This doll hospital a man named Espinheira from Galicia in clams with garlic and coriander, duck rice, a recipe which remains unchanged since performs diagnosis, surgeries, fixes Spain, who in 1840 tried fermenting cherries Chapelaria Azevedo Rua roasted cod with garlic and coriander and 1875 and which causes long queues every broken arms and legs and even does eye in alcohol, sugar, water and cinnamon. FOUNDED IN 1886 the house steak. à Praça do Comércio 3. 218 879 Christmas. Sit for tea and cake and choose transplants. Unrecoverable dolls become Thank you Mr. Espinheira. à Largo de São This place dictated hat fashion in Lisbon 259. Mon-Sun midday-3pm & 7pm-10pm. between a pastel de nata, a duchesse or an organ donors. There is a hospital shop that Domingos 8. 218 145 374. Mon-Sun 9am-10pm. for decades. From King Charles to the

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 70 71 Web Summit 2019 Time Out Lisbon Shopping Shopping

Luvaria Ulisses Conserveira de Lisboa à FOUNDED IN 1925 FOUNDED IN 1930 The most famous cubicle in Lisbon, selling Dive right in and enjoy the variety of canned gloves of every shape and colour. It has goods at this store, which has graced Rua always been, and still is, the only store dos Bacalhoeiros for 87 years. Wooden specialising in gloves and must not be shelves display colourful cans of house- judged by its tiny size. Even though you can’t exclusive brands such as Tricana, Prata do fit more than three people inside, it’s a must- Mar and Minor, and there’s a wooden bench see in Lisbon for anyone interested in high- to encourage bonding between customers quality leather gloves and amazing service. and locals. à Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 34. 218 864 009. Trying on a pair gloves here is quite the Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. writer Fernando Pessoa, everyone found experience, with a pillow to rest your wrist on the perfect fit here. At the end of the and proper fitting. They still make their own O Faia 20th century, ladies’ fashion was also gloves. à Rua do Carmo 87A. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. FOUNDED IN 1947 included and today the shop offers a mix of Founded by fado singer Lucília do Carmo contemporary and classic models. Gloves (mother of fado singer, Carlos do Carmo), and canes are also available if you wish to this is a historical Bairro Alto fado house, complete your look. à Praça D. Pedro IV, 73. 213 470 where great singers such as Alfredo 817. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm. Marceneiro, Camané and Ricardo Ribeiro have performed. Fado is the perfect side-dish

Ginjinha Sem Rival e Eduardino à for a meal such as cod sealed with olive oil, or FOUNDED IN 1890-1892 a broad bean stew, tomato and salted pork, Founded by the current owners’ sautéed spinach and cornbread crumble. grandfather, this place warms hearts Takes as long to read as it does to eat. à Rua da on cold winter days. The tiny shop was Bar Americano à Barroca 56. 213 426 742. Mon-Sat 8pm-2am.

scheduled to close after the entire building FOUNDED IN 1920 à was bought out and became a hotel. But This historical bar in Cais do Sodré has had Solar Antiques there was much outrage, so it remains open some of Portugal’s most illustrious writers, FOUNDED IN 1957 and is still unrivalled. à Rua das Portas de Santo such as Fernando Pessoa, Alexandre O’Neill This is the biggest and oldest shop in the Antão 7. 213 468 231. Mon-Fri 8am-midnight, Sat-Sun or José Cardoso Pires, amongst its regular world specialising in original tiles. Verónica 9am-midnight. customers. The owner is the founder’s great Leitão is the third generation to go into the grandson and the passing of time is visible family business, which includes an endless Paris em Lisboa on the many centenary bottles distributed number of Portuguese 15th and 19th FOUNDED IN 1888 over countless shelves, covered in dust and century tiles, original panels, lots of pottery This shop was formerly a famous made-to- oozing character. But don’t try this at home. from Caldas da Rainha, carved columns, order atelier, with luxury items from Paris Many are probably undrinkable by now. à doors and outdoor pieces. Anything really and over sixty seamstresses, a Parisian Rua Bernardino Costa 35 (Cais do Sodré). 969 462 182. Mon- that Manuel Leitão, the founder’s son, designer and customers which included the Sun 6pm-4am. believes represents Portugal’s soul and its nobility. The city and the whole country people. It is also safe to buy old tiles here: have since changed dramatically and in Pastelaria Versailles all sales are reported to the police to make the 70s the store specialised in high quality FOUNDED IN 1922 sure nothing is bought or sold that has been fabric, which has since changed to linens. This classic pastry shop is like a time warp: stolen from existing buildings. This is the Bed and table linen are still the focus, and frescoes of Versailles on the walls, stuccoed place to come if you want a pretty tile for original interiors are still in place, attracting ceilings, art nouveau mirrors and crystal 10 euros. ■ à Rua D. Pedro V, 70. 213 465 522. Mon-Fri visitors and locals alike. à Rua Garrett 77. 213 424 chandeliers. Feel free to eat a delicious 10am-7pm, Sat 10am-1pm. 329. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. meat croquette with a knife and fork. You can even do the same with your palmier Manteigaria Silva pastry. à Avenida da República 15A. 213 546 340. Mon-Sun Luvaria Ulisses FOUNDED IN 1890 9.30am-midnight. Best for cheese, cold cut meats, wine and codfish, all products are carefully chosen Pérola do Rossio by José Branco, who has been running FOUNDED IN 1923 the business since 1989 and is the only This gem was founded in 1923 by Mário Portuguese cheese affineur, a job which and has therefore remained a fixture Lopes de Moraes and has remained in the in France or Italy could win you serious at several historical restaurants. family for three generations. Coffee and accolades. The shop sells approximately six The best prepared tourists know to pretend tea are the stars of this show, along with tonnes of traditional Portuguese cheese a to drink coffee with him (or sit on his related items such as wine, jams, biscuits, year. They have a second store at Lisbon’s lap), well, his statue designed by Lagoa chocolate, coffee makers and tea pots. The Time Out Market. à Rua D. Antão de Almada 1D. 213 Henriques. Although this café has become neon sign is one of the few Rossio survivors, 424 905. Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-1pm. just another regular meeting point, it has as is the coffee grinder where the house retained some of its mystique, dating back specials are prepared, Pérola do Rossio and A Brasileira to a time when intellectuals met to discuss Ultramarino, the latter made solely from FOUNDED IN 1905 modernism and plan the literary magazine coffee sourced from former Portuguese It seems Fernando Pessoa is everywhere, Orpheu. à Rua Garrett 120. 213 469 541. Mon-Sun colonies. à Praça D. Pedro IV 105. 213 420 744. Mon-Fri right? He did live life in Lisbon to the fullest 8am-2am. 9.30am-7pm, Sat 9.30am-1pm.

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Welcome to Night Summit

The real networking happens after hours. Night Summit gives you the chance to get to know Lisbon a bit better while you’re here, taking you to different pockets of the city every night. So we NIGHT SUMMIT TIPS asked Web Summit’s organisers to introduce us to à Don’t forget your ID. this year’s party programme. Here is the result. à Bear in mind that most bars only accept cash and not credit or debit cards. à All officially selected Night Summit bars will have Web Summit attendee drink specials. Show your wristband to the bar and you’ve got night two of Web Summit more than ready to blow off a little steam. staff and they’ll take to the waterfront for our opening Night in the bag. We know just the place. Web Summit’s care of you. MONDAY 4 Summit. Look out for Original Bandalheira, TUESDAY 5 biggest party takes place on Wednesday a second line band, and follow them outside SELECTED RESTAURANTS: night at LX Factory, one of Lisbon’s most Web Summit Opening Night to the riverside party. More than 70 000 Night Summit - Time Taberna Tosca; La Puttana; Gelato Davvero. iconic neighbourhoods for Portugese fashion people attend the Web Summit – that’s a to do Business SELECTED BARS: and design. Join us at our warehouse party WHEN: 5 - 8pm. lot of meet and greets. What better place to Palheta Bar; Night Summit Bar; Bar Mercearia Tosca; from 8pm and enjoy live music and DJ sets WHERE: Altice Arena start making connections than at Parque WHEN: 8pm - midnight Collect; Livraria Bar; Pensão Amor; Roterdão (club); from homegrown Portuguese talent like Girl WHAT: Start the week right at our Opening das Nações? This buzzing area surrounding WHERE: Rua Nova do Carvalho (Pink Street) Pink Wine Point; Espumantaria; Bar do Cais; 4 Blunt, Shaka Lion, and one of the leading à If you want to learn Night Festival. Grab a bite from one of our Altice Arena features some of Lisbon’s finest WHAT’S THE CRAIC?: Shake up your Caravelas; Music Box (club). artists in the disco scene – Moullinex. more about Night food vendors and introduce yourself to your restaurants. Head down to the waterfront meetings by holding them away from the Experience a harmonious blend of music Summit, join us at fellow attendees – it’s the perfect chance to and spend your first Web Summit night conference floor. Whether you’re looking and tech on the streets of Lisbon. ■ Night Summit Info start getting to know people away from the getting to know your fellow attendees with a to talk to a specific person or just meet Point and meet Misty. busy conference floor. breathtaking riverside backdrop. people in your industry, Night Summit WEDNESDAY 6 SELECTED RESTAURANTS: She’s a robot and is can make it happen. Tuesday takes us Cantina LX Restaurant; Burger Factory; Messe Piazzaria; specialised in all things Night Summit - Meet SELECTED RESTAURANTS: to Pink Street. Once Lisbon’s red light Night Summit - Party Time DOGS; Cucurico; Sushi Factory Restaurant; Café na Night Summit. & Greet Night Kiosk Da Expo; Old House; Prego D’Pescador; Peixaria district, it’s been totally revamped and is Fábrica; LXeeseCake; Livraria Ler Devagar (Bookshop) à https://websummit.com/ WHEN: 8pm - 11pm Restaurante; Restaurante D’Bacalhau; D’Nata. now one of the capital’s quirkiest hotspots WHEN: 8pm - 2am SELECTED BARS: night-summit WHERE: Rua Bojador (waterfront) SELECTED BARS: – and the entire road is pink. Combine WHERE: LX Factory XL Warehouse el Chanta; The Therapist (exclusive); Único on Tap;

WHAT’S THE STORY?: Celebrations move Irish & Co.; + 3x Extra Night Summit Bars. rich history with a vibrant atmosphere PHOTOGRAPHS: DR WHAT’S BUZZIN’?: Day two is over and you’re Boqueirão; LX Warehouse - Night Summit Party.

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DRINKS which helped Red Frog place 92nd in a list afternoon – and adjacent rooms, including of the world’s best bars. So when it comes an old-style disco. There are occasional to choosing your drink, just put yourself in concerts and the background music is their good hands and try something new. à eclectic. à Rua do Alecrim 19. 213 143 399. Mon-Wed Rua do Salitre 5 A. 215 831 120. Mon-Wed 6pm- 2am, Thu-Sat midday-2am, Thu-Fri, midday-4am, Sat 6pm-4am. 6pm-4am, Sun 6pm-2am. Alcohol Toca da Raposa Le Consulat CHIADO CHIADO Constança Cordeiro is an exceptional Undoubtedly the finest bar in Chiado for mixology expert who moved from London a drink before dinner for two. Quiet, with last year, after spending three years there you later art on the walls, nice music, a real cocktail perfecting her skills. Her cocktails are based menu and good service - it is one of those on Portuguese fresh produce, and influenced Embarking on places where, after a few sips, you are likely by foraging. Her small bar near Largo do an intrepid mission to hear: “so, are you enjoying your drink?”. Carmo serves original drinks such as Tágide If you order a Peruvian Passport (elderberry (gin, olive oil, elderberry, Mateus Rosé, 11€), to discover Lisbon’s liqueur, apple juice and lime, 11€) or a or Abelha, (Macallan 12, honey and figtree many offerings Punta Cana Julep (rum, blackberry and leaves, 12€); it has a central area where 12 is thirsty work and, raspberry liqueur, peppermint and soda, people can sit and chat (or not). Beer: 5€ à Rua besides the city’s wide 10€), you will nod in agreement. The finest da Condessa 45 (Carmo). 968 759 192. Tue-Sun 6pm-2am. tables are the ones by the windows, which range of historical and are always open and look out onto Largo de Cinco Lounge cultural attractions, Camões and the tourists lining up for the CHIADO/CAIS DO SODRÉ there is a long list number 28 tram. à Praça Luís de Camões 22. 939 Warning: Cinco Lounge is a late evening 316 530. Mon-Sat midday-2am, Sun midday-midnight. drinks sort of bar for the kind of people who of both modern and work very, very late (eg: consultants, doctors more traditional bars 49 da ZdB and the like). It only opens at 9pm. But that where you can get BAIRRO ALTO Café Klandestino à is a fine time to enjoy the creations of the The bar attached to art space Galeria Zé INTENDENTE great Dave Palethorpe and his team, and to happily rehydrated. dos Bois (which often hosts concerts of Coffee is the main ingredient in this new let the world know (through social media, From Portuguese craft experimental music), up a flight of stairs. It cocktail bar in Martim Moniz. A cosy place of course) that you are in Lisbon’s first beers to contemporary is very LGBT-friendly and has DJ sets (and for people looking to get off the beaten path, real cocktail bar. This is a place where you cocktails, you’re people who really let themselves go on the the concept is tied to the times when coffee should trust the bartenders and try original floor when the right music is on) plus other was a hot commodity for smugglers (hence stuff such as Lose your Licence (10€) or Hot in for a smörgåsbord events. à Rua da Barroca, 49. Wed-Thur, 10pm-2am; Sat- the name). There’s coffee in almost every Tub (8€), both of them with rum. à Rua Ruben of alcoholic Sun, 10am-3am. cocktail. Try the Mojito Raiano (rum infused A. Leitão 17A. 914 668 242. Every day 9pm-2am. refreshments. with coffee, ginger beer, vanilla and passion O Bom, O Mau e O Vilão fruit, 10€), or go for something different and Monkey Mash CAIS DO SODRÉ try a Padrón pepper margarita (hibiscus, PRAÇA DA ALEGRIA This ambitious, multifaceted project was triple sec and tequila, 10€). Remember to From the alchool alchemists of the award named after Sergio Leone’s film The Good, thank João Resende, bartender and co-owner, winning Red Frog comes a new, exciting the Bad and the Ugly. It’s a bar, restaurant, for his creativity. Beer: 3€ à Rua do Benformoso 256. cocktail extravaganza called Monkey Mash. film club and music venue, with either 910 823 156. Sun-Thu 5pm-12am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. It’s a tropical modern cocktail bar that prides gigs or DJ sets daily. Check their Facebook itself on the use of exotic spirits and its page for details. In contrast to most bars in Lounge experimental approach. Tequila and cachaça Lisbon, where house and electronica rule, CAIS DO SODRÉ are at the heart of every cocktail and visitors here, soul, funk, afrobeat and jazz reign Lounge, a roomy bar in Bairro Alto style, should expect a lot of funky surprises. à Praça supreme. Several rooms feature striking has moderate prices, an unkempt and Alegria 66A, Mon-Thu 6pm-2am, Fri-Sat 6pm-3am. murals by local artists. à Rua do Alecrim 21. 967 youngish crowd, and interesting musical 950 287. Mon-Wed 7pm-2am, Thu-Sat 6pm-4am. events. On regular nights, decent DJs Musa Pavilhão Chinês DAMAS overall good vibe. All these elements made spin an underground mix of electro and MARVILA PRÍNCIPE REAL GRAÇA Damas a unique meeting point in the city. à Casa Independente minimal techno, and there’s the occasional Musa’s first varieties of beer were launched Pavilhão Chinês opened on February 18, In full flow since 2015, just up the street Rua da Voz do Operário 60. Tue 12pm-2am, Wed-Thu 6pm-2am, INTENDENTE themed party. It’s packed inside and out at in 2016 and have been conquering stores, 1986. The five rooms have its founder from Voz do Operário, this restaurant-bar- Fri 6pm-4am, Sat 12pm-4am, Sun 5pm-12am. In a rundown mansion that has housed all weekends, when ordering a drink can be a supermarkets and restaurants since. Today, Luis Pinto Coelho’s unbelievable object venue hybrid has changed the face of Graça’s manner of clubs and associations over the challenge. à Rua da Moeda 1. Mon-Sun 10pm-4am. there are four Musa varieties being sold collection on display. It includes helmets nightlife scene (was there a nightlife scene in Red Frog à past century or so, this is the latest (and loungelisboa.com.pt/blog. in large consumption locations, where as from the Second World War, toy soldiers, Graça before?) and it has lured many a night AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE probably the liveliest) incarnation. The large other products (such as limited editions) miniature airplanes, some of Bordalo crawler away from Bairro Alto to an even It’s arguably the best speakeasy in town. front ‘Tiger Room’ hosts gigs and DJ sets, but Pensão Amor are available in specialised stores only. Musa Pinheiro’s distinctive pieces, Betty Boops steeper hill. The music events are varied – The place is inspired by Prohibition-era there are various small rooms that are good CAIS DO SODRÉ has its own tap room at Rua do Açúcar, in and Action Mens. There is also a snooker including African music, electronica and bars in the US and has a clandestine flair, for a chat or a work session on your tablet, The name means “love boarding house”, the heart of Marvila. And it’s absolutely table and necktie-clad waiters invoking indie rock – and entry is usually free. The not least because it’s in a basement and you and the café and back patio are great places which is a nod to the building’s past as a one of our favorite spots for a drink in this older times. If you want to impress your restaurant offers day specials, vegetarian have to ring the doorbell to be let in (there’s to relax. The bar serves a good range of teas, place of business for sex workers and their city. The neighbourhood has recently been tourist friends, this is one of the best places options, tasty appetisers and craft beer. Once actually a secret room – ask about it). The list fresh juices and cocktails, while finger food is clients. Trendy locals now flock there to see baptised Lisbon’s Beer District. ■ à Rua do in town for that. à Rua D. Pedro V 89. 213 424 729. a bakery, the original ovens of which still of drinks was drawn up by some of the city’s served until midnight. à Largo do Intendente 45. 218 and be seen in the over-the-top lounge bar Açúcar 83 (Marvila). 213 877 777. Sun-Thu 4pm-11pm, Fri-

Mon-Sun 6pm-2am. feature in the back room, the place has an finest barmen and is constantly changing, PHOTOGRAPHY: DUARTE DRAGO PHOTOGRAPHY: DUARTE DRAGO 875 143. Tue-Thu 2pm-midnight, Fri 2pm-2am, Sat midday-2am. – a sort of decadent tearoom, open from late Sat 4pm-midnight.

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Alface Hall an original repertoire, but concept different from its sister Bairro Alto is among the last LET’S DANCE occasionally it opens on other venue (and from every other remaining places with live days. Music ranges from indie- bar in Cais do Sodré). Open music bars. Alface Hall is one pop to stoner, garage and psych- from 10pm to 4am on the first of those, a small bar operating rock. It’s a club for those who floor of Time Out Market, it’s under the people-hanging-out- kneel at the electric guitar’s six- great for some post-dinner by-the-door concept, typical in string altar. à Rua de São Paulo 16 activity– whether it be drinking the area. Once you step inside, Let the (Cais do Sodré). Mon-Thu 10pm-4am, Fri-Sat or dancing. On Sundays – and you will find jazz being played 10pm-6am. this is where it stands out – it right next to you. It is also a has matinée sessions from 5pm boutique hostel with double INCÓGNITO In this historic to 1am, for those of us who rooms and bunks. à Rua do Norte 96. beat space, which includes a ground want to go to bed early. à Time Out Every day 4pm-midnight. floor and a basement ( that’s Market,Praça Dom Luís I (Cais do Sodré). where the dancefloor is) the Tue-Sat 10pm-4am, Sun 5pm-1am. Foxtrot music is generally indie. Win In terms of music, the name Butler himself (Arcade Fire’s LOUNGE Lounge is one of says it all. An old-style English control lead singer), played a DJ set Lisbon’s best night venues, and bar with valet parking (comes there – to the hysterical delight for good reason. Their calendar handy in that area) and a room of anyone who recognised him. is one of its greatest assets, as with a fireplace (comes handy It was the city’s first alternative it manages to please just about in the winter). It is located in São your body venue. It is usually open until everyone. On a normal night – Bento, near Parliament. They 4am, and on weekends – if you even on a Sunday – you could serve lambretas (15cl beers). manage to get in – it can be so start by listening to a raw and A Lisbon classic developed Recent or older, with all sorts of sounds busy it’s hard to breathe. à Rua sweaty rock gig and end up by Luís Pinto Coelho, a and patrons, these temples of the night Poiais de São Bento 37 (Poço dos Negros). dancing to obscure disco tracks businessman who passed Racing Mackerels at Hot Club Portugal are worthy of a visit, even if it’s just Wed-Sat 11pm-4am. at 4am. And best of all, entry away in 2012 and who was also is free. On Thursdays, Fridays behind Procópio, Paródia and once in a lifetime. Get to know MINISTERIUM CLUB and Saturdays, the bar is so Pavilhão Chinês. à Travessa Santa some of Lisbon’s finest clubs Set in the former Ministry of busy it’s hard to dance. And since 1948 and spearheaded Teresa 28. Mon-Thu 6pm-2am, Fri-Sat Finance building, this club was no comments about the toilet LIVE MUSIC by Luiz Villas-Boas. The 6pm-3am, Sun 8pm-2am. inaugurated on December 1, queues. à Rua da Moeda 1 (Santos). jazz school, now known as LEGENDARY INSTITUTIONS LUX It’s the most famous club 2012, and usually opens on Mon-Sun 10pm-4am. Escola Luiz Villas-Boas, was Bacchanal that went through several names in the city – and in the country, Saturdays only. It has gradually established in 1979, developed In Ancient Rome, the bacchanal and formats, looking for a place actually. It opened its doors on become a reference in the city’s 5ACLUB Perfect for a workout by bass player Zé Eduardo, and it was a celebration in honour of in the sun (or, more aptly, under September 29, 1998. The owner electronic scene, with national without going to the gym, i.e., currently has 170 students. The Bacchus, the god of wine, which the moonlight). When darkness Manuel Reis, who recently and international techno and dancing after hours (it closes at All that jazz club is open to everyone and usually degenerated into orgies. falls in the city, a proper night passed away, was already house music names playing 4am, which is great in itself). concerts take place every week, But this new Bacchanal is not out necessarily includes a trip responsible for Frágil in Bairro every weekend. There’s also 5AClub, located in the Príncipe Tuesdays to Saturdays, between about that –unless you’re in the to one of these spots. We don’t Alto. Expect electronic music, a monthly LGBT night, Spit & Real, serves some great drinks 10pm and 2am. On Tuesdays, mood for wine, plenty of wine. want you to roam around after two dancefloors and a rooftop Polish. à Praça do Comércio, 72 (Terreiro (how about a tequila shot there are jam sessions, with Considering how well-stocked hours, unsure of where to go – terrace perfect to watch the do Paço). Sat 11am-6am machine? Go for it) and their different guest musicians the shelves of Víctor Cordeiro’s so here is a list of nightclubs in sunrise from. The queue can be musica curation is in the hands leading the jam every month. new bar (he also owns Loucos Lisbon, both grand party halls a deterrent from 2.30am, when METROPOLIS Metropolis is of Match Attack. That means Concerts usually come in two de Lisboa, in Príncipe Real) are, and more subdued venues, to things start to get interesting. practically the only thing left at good electronic dance music, sets, one at 10.30pm, the other you can try wines made with suit every taste. Can we ask you Even so, this isn’t Berghain, the abandoned Centro Comercial several indie artists and a fine at midnight. Entry is usually countless grape varieties, from for a dance? and unless the bouncer tries to Imaviz, one of the city’s historical underground spirit. à Rua do free for club members, and all Portuguese wine regions. It is charge you 240€ (there have commercial centres, founded in Noronha 5A (Príncipe Real). Fri-Sat jazzEvery city has its cult jazz bars tickets for the general public located in Cais do Sodré, and the MUSICBOX These days, been stories, even though entry is the early 70s. To get to this club 11pm-4am. – quiet spots with long drinks. vary according to the show, but soundtrack includes jazz and Musicbox has a more eclectic normally 12€), it’s always worth – or more accurately, to this rock These are the finest jazz venues usually cost around 10€. à Praça blues, quieter music for wine agenda than ever: Baile the wait. Be presentable, and crypt – you need to go down to KREMLIN This club in Alegria 48. Tue-Sat 10pm-2am. drinkers. à Rua do Corpo Santo 28. Tropicante makes you dance don’t wear flip flops. à Avenida the basement and walk through Escadinhas da Praia opened in Lisbon Wed-Mon 6pm-2am. to the sounds of cumbia, Noite Infante Dom Henrique, Armazém A, Cais da several empty shops, in itself an for business in 1988, when the Páginas Tantas Príncipe is all about afro- Pedra (Santa Apolónia). Thu-Sat 11pm-6am. interesting experience. Then, let Soviet Union was still standing. Páginas Tantas is a true jazz bar. Fábrica Braço de Prata electronica heard in Lisbon’s yourself be carried away by the The following years were its It has been soldiering on for This cultural hub took over a suburbs and alternative SABOTAGE Rock, rock and only important thing here, rock, finest, until it earned something two decades in Rua Diário de former war supplier factory showcases like the Musicbox more rock. That’s all you hear at with tribute nights to bands like of a reputation, lost some of its THINK OF IT as a jukebox of be close enough. Jazz bars work Notícias, in Bairro Alto, always in 2007. It became a dynamic Heineken Series brings Sabotage, ever since it opened Nirvana, Rammstein or Depeche glamour and eventually closed sorts but, instead of coming that way: you want to hear Chet with the same purpose: to cultural factory, where international emerging and in April 2013. A by-product Mode. à Centro Comercial Imaviz, Rua down in 2011. For five years it to a bar and inserting a coin to Baker and you get Miles Davis, provide good moments and good several artistic currents are established clubbing artists to the of the magazine of the same São Sebastião da Pedreira 35 (Picoas). Fri- only opened for special events. listen to the record you want, you hope for Duke Ellington and music. The walls surrounding represented. It has more than city. It’s also known for being one name, which has since been Sat 11pm-6am. But it’s back, for now only on put the coin on the bar counter, you get Coltrane. Not bad. That’s the mini-stage are covered in ten rooms, where gigs, debates of the clubs that stays open the discontinued, Sabotage is Fridays and Saturdays, in a order a drink and hope that the the expectation in these places, pictures of great international and exhibitions are held. Read latest, even when the rest of the close, but not too close, to Cais RIVE-ROUGE It’s Lux’s little slightly different format. Among music is good. If you picked the the finest jazz clubs in Lisbon. jazz stars. There’s live music, their program closely – there bars in Cais do Sodré are already do Sodré’s crazy night bustle. brother, something no other the differences: it is no longer right place and you know what almost always a trio, from are plenty of jam sessions and kicking out their last customers. There are gigs on Thursdays club in the city can brag about. open until 9am. ■ you want to listen to, even if the Hot Clube de Portugal Tuesdays to Sundays. à Rua do jazz concerts. ■ à Rua Fábrica de à Rua Nova do Carvalho 24 (Cais do Sodré). and Saturdays, almost always It was one the great nightlife à Escadinhas da Praia, 5 (24 de Julho). Fri- musical selection isn’t exactly Europe’s oldest jazz club, in Diário de Notícias 85. Mon-Thu 8.30pm-2am, Material de Guerra 1. Wed-Fri 6pm-2am, Sat

Mon-Sat 11pm-6am. by national rock bands with novelties of 2016, with a Sat 12.30am-7.30am THE NOUN PROJECT FROM ICON: FATAHILLAH FERRERO ROMERO PHOTOGRAPHY: PACO what you expected, it will still operation in Praça da Alegria Fri -Sat 8.30pm-3am, Sun 8.30pm-midnight. 1pm-4am.

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Your essential guide to Lisbon’s UNMISSABLE GAY EVENTS rainbow FADO BICHA nightlife With their project Fado Bicha, Lila Fadista and João Moço bring a queer Lisbon stepped out of the closet in the 60s, while twist to traditional fado. The duo usually Salazar’s regime was still alive and kicking. Slowly, announces their shows, in various venues across town, through their very slowly, the city’s nightlife became more colourful. Facebook page (some include dinner). Trumps It now has its own vibrant, rainbow scene with bars and à Show dates on Fado Bicha’s Facebook gay nightclubs, among dozens of other queer-friendly page. places. We are about to let you in on hot news world, culminating in a cruise along the Tagus and the bohemian vibe resembles that GAY BRUNCH and old classics that excel at keeping spirits high. river. The owners also own a gay guesthouse of old Bairro Alto. Drinks are cheap On Sundays, The Late Birds, a by the beach, in Caparica, called Villa 3, which and there are usually DJ sets and karaoke guesthouse in Bairro alto that targets has a swimming pool, and a spa and sauna inside. à Rua da Barroca 49, Wed-Thu 10pm-2am, the gay community, does a “gay open to non-guests. à Mon-Thu 4pm-2am, Fri-Sat Fri’Sat 10pm-3am. brunch”, open to non-guests. It is Hot news SOCIETY PRÍNCIPE REAL Bar Cru Príncipe REAL 4pm-3am. Rua Ruben A. Leitão 2-A (Príncipe Real). served between 11am and 3pm, and Established in January last year, it is the Ring the doorbell and wait for one of the hosts FINALMENTE PRÍNCIPE REAL the price is set at 22 euros per person. CORVO PRÍNCIPE REAL only openly lesbian bar in Lisbon. Society’s to welcome you in. Right at the back, you Finalmente, or Finas, as habitués know it, has Booking is essential. Cacela oysters, cheese and charcuterie calendar includes some new events in town, will find a survival store for lovers of leather The classics consistently held the city’s most incredible à Every Sunday at The Late Birds. boards, Dois Corvos craft beer, special like the first message party for women, every – and that includes poppers. Tuesdays drag shows for 43 years. Alright, it is also the Travessa André Valente 21, Bairro Alto. cocktails and a man cave. Corvo is one of the Tuesday. à Rua Cecílio de Sousa 72, Tue-Thu 10pm-2am, and Sundays are for dancing in the raw. TRUMPS PRÍNCIPE REAL only place consistently hosting drag shows in [email protected]. most recently opened gay bars in Príncipe Fri-Sat 10pm-3am. The naked truth. à Rua de São Marçal 170. Sun-Thu The most famous gay nightclub in the town. Still, if it ever faces competition, it will Real. “Cool and rough, dark but with some 5pm-3am, Fri-Sat 5pm-4am. 5€. country – and the busiest. These four walls always have a special aura. Deborah Kristall, MINA light, both diurnal and nocturnal. I can’t call POSH SÃO BENTO were foundational in the history of Lisbon’s Jenny Larue and Samantha Rox are the This queer techno party organised by it just a bar. I’m still not sure where it will go”, Its former name was A Lontra and it used CHAINS PRÍNCIPE REAL queer culture ever since the club opened in house stars. Every Monday, first-time trans the Rabbit Hole collective has been a says the owner. à Calçada Engenheiro Miguel Pais 18, to be an African music nightclub, a space A nightclub geared towards a male, fetishist 1981. Despite the weight of the past, it is very performers step on stage. à Rua da Palmeira, 38, breath of underground air in Lisbon’s Sun-Thu 5pm-2am, Fri-Sat 5pm-3am. for private parties and a cult classic for audience. There is a dance floor and what the popular among the younger crowd, and often Mon-Sun midnight-6am. nightlife scene since 2017. At Mina lovers of trance and other heavier music owner likes to call “black box”, a dark room, the first choice for those who are fresh out parties – which are normally semi- FAVELA LX ALFAMA genres. It has reincarnated as Posh, a gay open from 10pm. à Rua de Gustavo Matos de Sequeira of the closet. à Rua da Imprensa Nacional 104 B, Fri-Sat PUREX BAIRRO ALTO secret, the location being announced In this little bar in Alfama, there is always club that drew inspiration from some of the 42-A (Príncipe Real). Mon-Thu 10pm-2am, Fri-Sat 10pm-3am. 11.45pm-6am. Packed with recycled kitsch furniture, Bairro on the day of the event – everything something going on. Caipirinhas (the greatest European, South-American and Alto’s most famous gay-friendly bar is a top goes, except prejudice. In 2018, they owner is Brazilian), music, drag shows and Arabian clubs. It plays mostly house music, TR3S PRÍNCIPE REAL 49 DA ZDB BAIRRO ALTO choice for the LGBTI community – largely due launched suspension, a label favouring performances by the city’s new queer talents. combining it with special effects, funky Lisbon’s most famous bear bar, in Príncipe A discreet, gay-friendly bar, nicely located to their creative programme and good vibe new artists and fighting for equality on The birthplace of Fado Bicha, the first and lighting, LED screens and pyrotechnics. Not Real, is hosting, between May 29 and June 3, on Rua da Barroca, on the ground floor between habitués and newcomers. If having a the dance floor. only queer fado performance. à Calçada do quite the most inconspicuous. à Rua de São its own Lisbon Bear Pride, an international of Galeria Zé dos Bois. It is a meeting place calm drink is what you are after, you better get à Parties announced on the website: Cascão 10, Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. Bento 157, Fri-Sat, 11.45pm-6am. festival that welcomes “bears” from across the for musicians, artists and journalists, there early. ■ à Rua das Salgadeiras 28, Fri-Sat 11pm-2am. www.minasuspension.com

Time Out Lisbon Web Summit 2019 80 81 KEY INFORMATION

GETTING AROUND Porto and Madrid) and the airport (in NETWORK DIAGRAM the main terminal Arrivals), as well as Maps of the bus and tram system can booths in Rua Augusta in the Baixa, be found at booths run by municipal and in Belém opposite the Mosteiro transport company Carris. Its dos Jerónimos (both 10am-1pm, information line is +351 21 350 0115 2-6pm Tue-Sat). (8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri); its website All sell Lisboa Card and Viva Viagem (www.carris.pt) is user-friendly. (see Fares & Tickets), as well as the The Metro’s info line is the same, Lisboa Restaurant Card which gets its site www.metrolisboa.pt. It also you discounts in restaurants. has customer service desks at two stations: Alameda and Marquês de EMERGENCY Pombal. Or try the route-finder at In emergencies dial 112 and ask www.transporlis.sapo.pt. for polícia (police), ambulância (ambulance) or bombeiros (fire). FARES & TICKETS For buses or trams you can buy a HOSPITALS ticket on boarding, but it works out a Hospitals – public lot cheaper to get a 7 Colinas or Viva Hospital de Santa Maria Viagem magnetic card beforehand Avenida Professor Egas Moniz, (+351 and charge it up at a Carris booth, 21780 5000/www.hsm.min-saude.pt). Metro ticket office or vending Metro: Cidade Universitária machine, post office or PayShop from the driver for €2, but it is better from Sete Rios, passing via the Ponte Hospital de São José agent. The Metro no longer sells value to load multiple tickets or a pass 25 de Abril. Rua José António Serrano (+351 21 individual tickets, so to travel you onto a 7 Colinas or Viva Viagem card 8841000/www.chlc.min-saude.pt/). need to have a card. Cards cost €0.50 (see Fares & Tickets above). A single Metro: Martim Moniz C (they’re valid for one year). You can FERRIES ticket costs € 1.50, for which you get Hospital S. Francisco Xavier then load on individual trips or, Ferries run by Transtejo (808 203 050/ M an hour’s travel on buses, trams and Estrada Forte Alto do Duque, Restelo for €6.40, buy 24 hours’ unlimited www.transtejo.pt) link Lisbon with Metro. Night buses are rather scarcer; (+351 21 043 1000/ www.hsfxavier. travel on Metro and Carris networks. the south bank of the Tagus, with fares Y taxis, which are still relatively cheap, minsaude.pt). Bus: 723, 732 At Metro gates and on entering from €1.25 to €2.45 (again, loaded onto Hospitals – private CM are a better bet. a €0.50 card). Those for Barreiro depart buses, hold your card next to the British Hospital Lisbon XXI from Terreiro do Paço, near Praça do MY electronic pad to validate it. The Rua Tomás da Fonseca, Ed. B e F, cards may only be used by one person TRAMS & FUNICULARS Comércio; those for Cacilhas, Montijo Torres de Lisboa (+351 21 721 3400/ CY at a time. Lisbon’s tourist pass, the On-board fares for eléctricos (trams) are and Seixal depart from Cais do Sodré. bh.gpsaude.pt).Bus: 726. nontransferable Lisboa Card, allows more expensive than for buses and at At Belém you can catch a ferry to Porto Cuf Infante Santo CMY unlimited travel on Metro, buses €2.90 are more than twice what it costs Brandão and Trafaria at the mouth of Travessa do Castro 3, Avenida K and trams, and on trains to Cascais if you use a 7 Colinas or Viva Viagem the river, from where buses head to the Infante Santo, Alcântara (+351 21 392 and Sintra, as well as free entry to or card. As with buses, you get on at the Caparica beaches. 6100/www.clinicacuf.pt). Bus: 760, discounts for sights and museums. front, off at the back. Three funiculars 713, 720, 727, 738, 773. It can be bought at tourist offices and – the Elevador da Bica, Elevador da TAXIS Cuf Descobertas booths. (Prices: 24hr card €20; 48hr Glória and Elevador do Lavra – steam Taxis in Lisbon are thick on the ground Rua Mário Botas, Parque das Nações €34; 72hr €42; for under-12s: €13, up the city’s steeper slopes. They and and cheap. Charges start at €3.25 (+351 21 002 5200). Metro: Oriente €19 and €22,5). the Elevador de Santa Justa, which (€3.90 at night); an average trip costs Hospital da Luz is a lift, are covered by the Carris fare around €8. Fares go up after 9pm, at Avenida Lusíada 100, Benfica (+351 21 METRO system but the tickets you buy on board the weekend and on holidays. Tips 710 4400/www.hospitaldaluz.pt) The Metro is the speediest way to (return only) are much pricier than are optional but appreciated. Reliable Metro: Colégio Militar/Luz travel in Lisbon, though not all sights buses and trams, at €3.70 for two trips stands include those at Rossio and Hospital Particular de Lisboa are served by its four lines. Trains run for the funiculars and €5.15 return for Largo do Chiado. To order a cab (€0.80) Avenida Luís Bívar 30 1º, Saldanha 6.30am to 1am daily. To travel, get a 7 the Elevador da Santa Justa. So using a dial +351 21 811 9000 (Retális), +351 (21 358 6200) Metro: Saldanha. Colinas or Viva Viagem card (see above) 7 Colinas or Viva Viagem card is a much 21 793 2756 (Autocoope), or +351 21 and load trips onto it at a Metro ticket better idea. 811 1100 (Teletáxis). Luggage costs POLICE office or vending machine. All but extra 1.60€. Uber and Cabify are two There is a tourist police station five stations are in the L zone, within RAIL SERVICES transportation apps working in Lisbon. (+351 21 342 1613) at Palácio Foz, which a trip costs €1.50 (this gives you Suburban trains are run by arms of on the western side of Praça dos a full hour’s travel on Metro, buses and state railways CP-Caminhos de Ferro TOURIST INFORMATION Restauradores (Baixa) in the same trams). Portugueses (808 208 208/ www. For information about Portugal in building as the main tourist office. cp.pt). Services for Queluz and Sintra general, contact Instituto de Turismo BUSES leave from Rossio; those for the Estoril de Portugal (808 781 212/ www. POSTAL SERVICES Yellow Carris bus stops often have na coast depart from Cais do Sodré station visitportugal.com). For Lisbon, the Praça dos Restauradores, 58 electronic screen telling you when for Oeiras or Cascais. Tickets are €1.30 main Ask Me Lisboa tourist office (+351 21 323 8971). Metro: each service is due. They are not always to €3.45 (loaded onto a €0.50 Viva is on Praça do Comércio, but there Restauradores. Open 8am-10pm; working nor indeed correct when they Viagem card) but cheaper if you buy ten is another on Restauradores and a Mon-Fri; 9am-6pm Sat. Metro: are, so beware. Get onto the bus at the at a time (from €11.70). Another option branch for younger tourists around Restauradores front of the bus and off in the middle or is a €13.50 72hr joint rail and Scotturb the corner in Rua Jardim do Regedor. Praça do Município at the rear. Newer ones have ramps for (Sintra and Cascais region) bus pass. There are also ‘Ask me’ desks at Santa (+351 21 322 0920). Metro: Baixa- wheelchair access. You can buy a ticket Trains for Almada and Setúbal leave Apolónia rail terminal (for trains from Chiado.

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