The 5 best 13 TABERNA MODERNA Located on the edge of , Taberna Rua dos Moderna is literally what the name restaurants with a cool Bacalhoeiros 18A means in Portuguese, namely a modern Baixa ➅ tavern. The owners were inspired by the ATMOSPHERE +351 21 886 5039 traditional small restaurants that you www.tabernamoderna. find all over the city, but they added a com contemporary touch to the concept.

14 THE DECADENTE The brainchild of the Eça Leal brothers, 11 100 MANEIRAS 100 Maneiras is owned by Ljubomir Rua de São Pedro de The Decadente is attached to their Largo da Trindade 9 Stanisic, a Sarajevo-born and Belgrade- Alcântara 81 award-winning hostel. This is one of the ➅ raised chef. The atmosphere is one of Chiado ➅ city’s hotspots, with an eclectic vibe and +351 91 030 7575 the best in town and the food lives up +351 21 346 1381 an international crowd, which ensures a www.restaurante the expectations as well, with dishes www.thedecadente.pt great atmosphere every single night. 100maneiras.com inspired by the culinary traditions of , France and Yugoslavia, but 15 SANTO ANTÓNIO This three-storey restaurant has an with a daring twist. It’s the trademark of DE ALFAMA amazing location. Try to get a table on Ljubomir, who refuses to feel inhibited Beco de São Miguel 7 the exceptional outdoor terrace (first out of respect for the past. Alfama ➆ come, first serve), set in a small alley +351 21 888 1328 covered with grapevines, where local 12 MINI BAR Star chef José Avillez opened this www.siteantonio.com residents go about their lives in the Rua António Maria gastropub in a former theatre around adjoining houses. Cardoso 58 the corner from his two-Michelin-star Chiado ➅ restaurant Belcanto. At Mini Bar the +351 21 130 5393 menu is filled with Portuguese-style www.minibar.pt tapas. The décor echoes the building’s theatrical past and is informal and sophisticated at the same time.

14 THE DECADENTE

26 27 The 5 best places for SITTING IN THE SUN

121 À MARGEM The minimalistic À Margem has no need Doca do Bom for a fancy décor to compete with the Sucesso sight of the wide river right in front. Belém ➁ The location is in fact superb, two +351 91 862 0032 steps away from the Tagus, on the river www.amargem.com boardwalk that links two of the city’s most striking monuments: the Padrão dos Descobrimentos and the Belém Tower.

122 ZAMBEZE Zambeze is a peculiar restaurant that Mercado do Chão do blends the cuisine from Mozambique Loureiro with that from a region of Central Mouraria ➆ Portugal, Beira. Its outdoor terrace, on +351 21 887 7056 the other hand, is all about Lisbon alone. www.zambeze The view on the river and the hill of restaurante.pt Chiado is mind-blowing, with the castle and the Sé church as a backdrop.

74 125 ESPELHO D’ÁGUA The 5 best 213 MERCADO DE Located in the north of Lisbon, in the NORTE neighbourhood it was named after, this FOOD MARKETS Avenida Rio de food market is celebrated for the quality Janeiro 27 of its products. It has yet to experience Alvalade ➇ a revamping like the markets of Ribeira, +351 21 849 1860 and Algés did, so this is the place to go if you’re looking for a more traditional and neighbourhoody feel. 211 MERCADO DA After having spent many years in a RIBEIRA lethargic state, Lisbon’s largest food 214 MERCADO DE ALGÉS Dating from the 1950s, this is Avenida 24 de market Mercado da Ribeira (built in Rua Luís de Camões yet another of Lisbon’s typical Julho 50 1892), was renovated by Time Out Algés ➀ neighbourhood food markets. It was Cais do Sodré ➅ magazine. New food stalls and kiosks www.mercado recently renovated to welcome 16 food +351 21 359 3100 were added but also the traditional dealges.pt and beverage outlets and an outdoor market vendors stayed. The market terrace, in addition to the traditional quickly became the city’s new food hub vendor stands. It’s a lively place where and the second most popular tourist you can enjoy the Lisbon way of life. attraction. 215 MERCADO 31 Located in the heart of the business 212 MERCADO DE CAMPO This cosy neighbourhood food market in DE JANEIRO district, this market offers a large DE OURIQUE Campo de Ourique was the first in town Rua Engenheiro variety of food vendors as well as two Rua Coelho da Rocha to be renovated, setting the example Vieira da Silva restaurants serving menus made with Campo de Ourique ➂ for other markets. The new additions Saldanha ➇ the ingredients sold in the adjoining +351 21 132 3701 include a dozen food stalls that blend in +351 21 354 0988 stalls (one is vegetarian). There is also www.mercado perfectly with the traditional vendors of an interesting shop selling vintage decampodeourique.pt fish, vegetables and fruits. It’s one of the furniture, an offspring of Cantinho city’s hotspots. do Vintage.

114 115 253 EDP HEADQUARTERS This light and airy building was designed 5 Avenida 24 de Julho by award-winning architecture firm Cais do Sodré ➅ Aires Mateus as the headquarters of the REMARKABLE former state-owned company EDP. Located next door to the Mercado PALACES da Ribeira it blends perfectly with the contrasting surroundings, despite its size and style. It has in fact set a new standard for contemporary architecture in the city. 256 CASA DO ALENTEJO It’s hard to imagine the wonders that are Rua das Portas de kept inside of the Casa do Alentejo. The 254 MUSEU DOS COCHES The new Museu dos Coches was Santo Antão 58 interiors are of Neo-Moorish inspiration, Praça Afonso de designed by Brazilian Pritzker Prize Av. da Liberdade ➃ with richly decorated palatial rooms, Albuquerque winner Paulo Mendes da Rocha on a +351 21 340 5140 a restaurant and a grand hall that is the Belém ➁ plot adjacent to the old museum, that www.casadoalentejo. perfect décor for the social functions and +351 21 361 0850 used to be occupied by the former royal com.pt cultural events that take place regularly. www.museu riding school. The museum offers an doscoches.pt interesting contemporary backdrop to 257 PALÁCIO FOZ This palace (which can only be visited by the richly decorated carriages, some Praça dos groups with a reservation) was built in the of which date as far back as the 15th Restauradores late 1700s and shows a blend of several century. Av. da Liberdade ➃ architectural styles, from baroque to Neo- +351 21 322 1200 Manueline. Its rooms rival in grandeur 255 FUNDAÇÃO The Champalimaud Centre for the www.gmcs.pt/palaciofoz with those of the royal palace. CHAMPALIMAUD Unknown is housed in a state-of- Centro the-art building designed by Indian 258 PALÁCIO DA After the big 1755 earthquake and tsunami Champalimaud, architect Charles Correa. Located on the Largo da Ajuda that destroyed the royal palace located on Avenida de Brasília riverbank, near the mouth of the Tagus, Ajuda ➀ the riverfront, the royal family decided Belém ➁ the building finds the perfect balance +351 21 363 7095 to build a new palace on a hopefully +351 21 048 0200 between form and function. It truly www.palacioajuda.pt safer, higher ground above Belém. The www.fchampalimaud. expresses the essence of the magnificent palace was never fully completed but the org location it was built on. existing part is worth a visit because of the richness of the décor and the grandeur of the rooms.

134 135 5 304 LARGO DE This closed square is where you’ll find the SÃO MIGUEL imposing church of São Miguel, with its SMALL SQUARES Largo de São Miguel steps where people sit on warm nights Alfama ➆ drinking and enjoying the scenery. You’ll also find many fado restaurants that here provide a lively soundtrack to the daily life of the square’s residents and visitors.

305 LARGO DA PARADA Largo da Parada lies in an easy-going part 301 PRAÇA The intimately small square is right in the Rua 4 de Infantaria of town, in a quarter that’s appreciated by DAS AMOREIRAS centre of the city but the feel is almost Campo de Ourique ➂ locals for its shopping opportunities and Praça das Amoreiras rural, as if you were transported to a family feel. It’s a nice place to observe the Amoreiras ➃ village in the countryside, far away from local residents living their daily lives. the traffic and noise of the city. The garden that occupies the square is lined with trees and has a lively kiosk and an art museum.

302 LARGO DO CARMO The Carmo square is the calmest spot in Chiado ➅ Chiado, far from the busy streets of this elegant district. It has restaurants with outdoor terraces, a kiosk, a museum and a church. It is also the entry point to the lift of Santa Justa and to the viewpoint of the Carmo terraces.

303 LARGO DE This Parisian-style square located in SÃO PAULO the lower part of the city, at the river Largo de São Paulo level, was for many decades a shabby Cais do Sodré ➅ area where you really wouldn’t feel comfortable at night, given the many illegal activities that went on there. Now all that has changed and the square and the adjoining streets are the heart of 303 LARGO DE SÃO PAULO Lisbon’s nightlife.

158 159 The 5 best places to hear 374 CASINO DE LISBOA You could visit Lisbon’s casino even if Alameda dos you are not into gambling or gaming. LIVE MUSIC Oceanos 45 In fact there are very good live music Parque das Nações �� performances here every day, brought to +351 21 892 9000 you from the Arena Lounge stage, in an www.casino-lisboa.pt area where clients sit at a rotating bar- restaurant. In addition there is a 600-seat auditorium that hosts regular theatre, dancing and music shows. 371 POPULAR ALVALADE This is one of the best hidden secrets Rua António in town. Located in the non-touristic 375 XAFARIX Owned by members of the historic Patrício 11-B quarter of Alvalade and owned by a Avenida Dom band Trovante, this is a traditional and Alvalade ➇ musician, Popular hosts daily shows by Carlos I 69 intimate live music hangout that has +351 21 796 0216 local bands in styles that range from Santos ➂ been around since the late 80s. The bar www.facebook.com/ rock to grunge. The venue is intimate, +351 21 395 1395 gets its name from its location inside PopularAlvalade dark and warm – like all music bars an old water reservoir that supplied should be. If you go there, it’s very likely residents with clean water (chafariz). that you’ll be the only tourist.

372 HOT CLUBE DE This bar is quite an institution in the PORTUGAL Portuguese music scene. Opened in the Praça da Alegria 48 mid-20th century, Hot Clube is on the Av. da Liberdade ➃ list of the oldest jazz clubs in the world. +351 21 361 9740 It’s a local and also an international www.hcp.pt reference and it has welcomed artists like Dexter Gordon and Quincy Jones.

373 TEMPLÁRIOS BAR Here is one of those gems that threaten Rua Flores do Lima 8 to stay unnoticed even by discerning ➇ locals, because most people seldom go +351 21 797 0177 out in this residential part of town. Open www.templarios.pt since 1991, this bar on Avenidas Novas hosts daily live music shows by amateur and garage bands, and also live stand-up comedy shows. 192 193 5 428 THE KEEP – It’s hard to match the view from this SLEEP BOUTIQUE/ small 16-room hotel perched high above UNUSUAL PLACES PENSAO NINHO DE Lisbon, just below the Castle walls. It’s AGUIAS not your traditional hotel, the feel here TO SLEEP Costa do Castelo 74 is more like that of a private residence Castelo ➆ where the owner personally welcomes +351 21 885 4070 guests and takes care of their stay. The www.thekeep-lisbon. building itself dates from 1885 and has com been a hotel since the late 50s. 426 PALÁCIO BELMONTE Palácio Belmonte stands out in the Pátio de Dom Lisbon hotel scene, and deserves a class 429 PALÁCIO RAMALHETE This palace located in front of the Fradique 14 of its own. It’s a secluded place, hidden Rua das Janelas National Ancient Art Museum is said to Castelo ➆ behind an imposing gate by the castle Verdes 92 be the setting of one of Portugal’s most +351 21 881 6600 walls, and offering 11 magnificent suites, Lapa ➂ famous novels, The Maias. The exclusive www.palacio all with impressive views of the old city. +351 21 393 1380 hotel has only 12 rooms and suites, belmonte.com The palace itself dates from the 1500s www.palacio- installed in the manor houses’ living and was renovated with care by Fréderic ramalhete.com quarters. In the back there is an intimate Coustols, its French owner. It has a cozy garden with a small pool. garden with a pool. 430 THE LATE BIRDS This charming and gay-friendly hotel lies 427 PALACETE CHAFARIZ This is yet another Lisbon palace Travessa André a bit hidden in the heart of one of the D’EL REI that was converted to high-end Valente 21-21A trendiest areas of the city, on the edge of Tv. do Chafariz del accommodations after first undergoing ➄ Bairro Alto and Santa Catarina. After you Rei 6 a profound renovation to restore all of +351 93 300 0962 enter its discreet door you will find four Alfama ➆ its past grandeur. The architecture is www.thelatebirdslisbon. floors with twelve beautifully decorated +351 21 888 6150 neo-Moorish – a very fashionable style in com rooms, an idyllic pool and a lounge bar. www.chafarizdelrei.com the 1900s. The existing six suites all are different but share a common charming, discreet and luxurious feel.

218 219 The best 5 places for an 479 ESTÁDIO NACIONAL Estádio Nacional, also referred to as Algés ➀ ‘Jamor’, is Portugal’s national stadium OUTDOOR RUN and sports complex. It occupies an extensive plot of land on the edge of town and it boasts a football stadium, several rugby and football fields, a tennis club, a golf academy and extensive running tracks.

476 TAGUS BOARDWALK What better place to go for a jog than 480 MONSANTO This city forest is one of the largest in Belém ➁ the 10-kilometre riverside boardwalk Monsanto the world (over 1000 hectares) and offers that runs alongside the Tagus from a multitude of jogging opportunities, on Terreiro do Paço up to Belém? The all types of soil, from asphalt to gravel. scenery is overwhelming and along the There are dozens of kilometres of tracks way there are many interesting points in the middle of the forest also that like the docks, the , attract trail runners and bmx riders. the Padrão dos Descobrimentos and the Tower of Belém.

477 PAREDÃO This boardwalk runs from Paço de Arcos up to Cascais, alongside the sea. If offers 476 TAGUS BOARDWALK a stunning scenery and it allows sports enthusiasts to enjoy the sea breeze and the beach during their workout. There are many restaurants and cafes for pit stops.

478 This 19th-century urban park was Avenidas Novas ➇ recently renovated and now offers picnic areas, kids’ playgrounds, sports facilities, several paddle tennis courts, a restaurant, a lake with row boats and a running track where joggers can run in an urban but at the same time green setting.

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