WANDERLUST / Malaysia Casting History-rich Kuala Selangor is known for its Forwardconnection to Malaysia’s past, but the town’s lifeblood remains its coastal fishing communities. WORDS Gerry O’Shea PHOTOGRAPHY Chew Win Win A grey heron in Kuala Selangor Nature Park surveys its surroundings – a secondary forest, mangrove swamp and brackish lake created as a bird sanctuary. The park is a nesting area for some 156 bird species. Opposite Page The local lighthouse keeper checks that everything is running like clockwork at the 80m-high Altingsburg Lighthouse, which was erected on Bukit Melawati in 1907 to guide ships plying the narrow Straits of Malacca. Use promo code – TRAVELMGZ – to enjoy a 10 per cent discount on this tour! 1 paused before sliding the van see communities that have been sampans can be seen setting out door open, hoping the outside intimately connected to the sea their nets. air would provide relief from the for centuries. Relics at the Kuala Selangor Ihumidity back in Kuala Lumpur. “You’ll enjoy being out of the District Historical Museum help Late March was hot as promised – city,” my driver and guide, Norman tell the region’s story. A small and proved a perfect time to escape Noordin, told me. “The fresh sea air building at the hill’s crest, the the city’s steamy streets. will do you good.” museum highlights the area’s rich But it wasn’t just the hope for a history, including Dutch influence cool sea breeze that had brought Historic Hill “Start here,” Norman in the 17th century and later, me to Kuala Selangor, 70km west instructed, pointing to a cannon British colonial rule. The museum of Kuala Lumpur. Here, where overlooking the panoramic view of brims with historical artefacts the Selangor River empties into the strait, “and then, make your way such as Dutch pistols, ornate keris the Straits of Malacca, fishing has around the hill.” (traditional Malay daggers) and long been vital to the surrounding The hill – Bukit Melawati – ancient currencies like tampang villages. I was here to learn about would be my introduction to Kuala – tin ingots used throughout the life in these vibrant communities. Selangor’s past. The area, about 10 Malay Peninsula between the 16th My own recreational angling – minutes from town by car, is home and late 19th centuries. However, to years of unsuccessfully chasing to the ruins of Kota Melawati, an fully grasp Selangor’s history, what striped bass of the northeast 18th century fort built during the is outside the museum’s glass doors coast of the US – had given me reign of Sultan Ibrahim Shah – proves more instructive. great appreciation for those who Selangor’s ruler between 1778 and Nearby is Busut Melawati, sustain livelihoods from the 1826 – as a vantage point to track a mound, which according uncertainties of throwing baited ships. At its highest points, fishing to legend, was a spot where lines into an underwater abyss. In villages along the banks are visible, Selangor’s early sultans would Kuala Selangor, I was told, I would and on clear days, men in wooden rest under a drooping angsana 68 FOLLOW US ON 3 2 1. A local fisherman inspects his nets at Bagan Sungai Yu, a fishing village in Pasir Penambang, located along the Selangor River. The fishing community supplies waterfront restaurants here with their daily catch. 2. Kuan Hwa Seafood Restaurant's ‘Garden of the Ocean’ seafood platter – priced at MYR500 (approx. USD122) – features eight to 10 specialties including five-spice mantis prawns and salted egg local crabs. 3. A must-try at Auntie Foo Cafe is cendol, green rice flour jelly in coconut milk, with shavings of ice, and swirls of palm sugar and refreshing coconut ice cream. 4. Kampung Kuantan is well known for its firefly colonies that reside in berembang trees along the Selangor River. 4 tree. The site is popular today is known about the first, Sultan navigating the narrow, notoriously for expansive views of the strait. Salehuddin Shah, who reigned from treacherous strait. Enjoying this seascape, I was 1756 to 1778, but as I read about reminded I was no longer in the how the waterways surrounding Nature Up Close As the midday sun city as a silvery lutung (also known the area were critical to the tin arrived, I was happy to be back in as silvery langur) bounded in front and rubber trade, I could imagine Norman’s air-conditioned van, of me, hopping onto a cannon how important it would have though we were not travelling far. pointing out to the meeting place been during this sultan's reign to At the bottom of Bukit Melawati of the strait and the Selangor River. safeguard the Selangor River and is Kuala Selangor Nature Park, Perching himself on the cascabel, the strait. Interestingly, not far from which is run by the Malaysian my primate companion seemed Kuala Selangor, at the mouth of the Nature Society (MNS). The MNS is to enjoy the view as much as I Klang River, is reportedly where the one of the country’s oldest NGOs, did. Silvery lutungs are found sultan began his journey, sailing and is focused on education and in trees along coastal areas in over to ofcially establish his rule. conservation activities such as Malaysia and Indonesia, and while Selangor remained an important mangrove seeding and debris there is no shortage of them on trading port into the 20th century, removal. The park is home to over Bukit Melawati, these monkeys and in 1907, a lighthouse was built 150 bird species including the milky are considered ‘near threatened’ on the hill. Originally named the stork, great egret and black-capped by the International Union for Altingsburg Lighthouse, the Kuala kingfisher, and includes a lake Conservation of Nature (IUCN). Selangor Lighthouse, as it is widely where a variety of migratory and Further down the hill are more known today, stands 27m high and endemic birds feed. signs of Selangor’s past. The is the most recognisable symbol Connected to the park is Taman Makam Diraja or Royal Mausoleum of Kuala Selangor. It continues to Ikan Air Tawar, a freshwater fish is home to the remains of the first serve as an important beacon for reserve featuring aquariums with three Sultans of Selangor. Little ships – foreign and domestic – local fish like the toman (giant 69 Sweet Surrender There’s more to Kuala Selangor’s cuisine than just great seafood. For something to satisfy a sweet tooth, kuih ketayap is a must-try. The rolled crepe-like dessert is made from flour, eggs and pandan (screwpine) leaves that give it a green hue, and features a filling of shredded coconut mixed with gula melaka (palm sugar) – caramelised sugar made from the sap Kuala of palm trees. In Selangor, gula melaka is also used in Selangor cendol, another popular dessert that combines the Tour palm sugar with pandan jelly noodles, coconut milk Vidi’s eight-hour tour in and ice shavings. Auntie Kuala Selangor includes a Foo Cafe serves these visit to Kota Melawati, a fort home-made treats, as well built atop Bukit Melawati by as sandwiches and a variety Sultan Ibrahim in the late of local teas and cofees. 1700s; an exploration of Kuala Selangor Nature Park; AuntieFooKualaSelangor a decadent seafood feast; and a firefly cruise down the Selangor River on board a tongkang (small, non- motorised boat). Vidi is a travel platform that helps travellers curate experiences for an incredible holiday using an interactive 03 1 itinerary planner. vidi.co 19 1. Auntie Kopitiam, which opened in 1935, is a typical Hainanese cofee shop serving toast with homemade kaya (coconut jam), kuih lempeng (local pancake), as well as their signature: curry noodles with hardboiled egg, prawns, bean curd, fish balls and chicken feet. Opposite Page A local fisherman relaxes in the veranda of his colourful home in Pasir Penambang. There are around 200 households in Pasir Penambang and most of the residents trace their roots to Southern China. snakehead) and kap perak (silver Pasir Penambang is where Kuala Its launch coincided with an carp), as well as exhibits of nets, Selangor’s connection to the sea is announcement from the Malaysian traps and implements used by most evident. Walking around this government that cost-of-living Selangor's fishing community. close-knit fishing community, I assistance would be provided to Driving from the hill toward smelled fresh paint being applied nearly 1,000 Selangor fishermen – town, the fusion of cultures in Kuala to wooden boats, watched men a great boon to struggling anglers. Selangor takes shape. In addition lay out salted fish to dry, and Today, Pasir Penambang’s to several mosques in the area, women repair nylon nets. Most waterfront markets, fisheries and 10km south of Bukit Melawati is villagers here can trace their roots restaurants draw sizable crowds, the picturesque Sri Shakti Hindu to southeast China, and almost including tour groups. Beyond temple. Its sandstone towers stand everyone fishes for a living. fresh seafood, vendors also sell in contrast to colourfully ornate While tourism has helped dried fish and a local specialty – Chinese temples, including the ofset some of the challenges this prawn crackers. Monkey God Temple at the southern community faces, many remain. Residents say the prawn crackers end of Pasir Penambang, a sub- Illegal fishing activities, trawling here are the freshest and most district known for its fish markets. and the increasing uncertainty of flavourful in Selangor – the result weather patterns continue to create of being so close to coastal prawn Sea to Table Feeling weary from a day headwinds for the fisherfolk.