891 5 - 11 January 2018 16 Pages Rs 50

#891 5 - 11 January 2018 16 pages Rs 50

Game of thrones BHANU BHATTARAI

he louder the clarification, Chair must be given one of the two addressing Madhesi grievances by the deeper the speculation. executive posts. That’s the deal amending the Constitution, Dahal TThis appears to describe between him and Oli.” is best suited to be the next PM,” Maoist Chair Pushpa Kamal Dahal’s Oli, widely viewed as the next he told us. “If Oli becomes the PM, statement that he will not form the PM, has neither confirmed nor he will create a divide between the new government outside his party’s denied the deal. He kept mum even hills and Madhes, and the country alliance with the UML. after UML General Secretary Ishwor will plunge into another cycle of After some NC leaders Pokhrel proposed him not just as conflict.” publicly backed the Maoist the PM but also the chair of the Yadav claims that Dahal has not supremo as the next PM, Dahal unified party. After winning a near- rejected the NC’s offer. “He is just clarified that the people have majority, the UML looks confident using it to strike a better deal with FASHIONISTA endorsed left unity and it would that it can rule Nepal even without the UML,” he says. “If the UML Stylists who made it big on social media be sacrilege to violate it even if the Maoists. does not show flexibility, Dahal open stores to woo more customers he benefitted personally. But NC This has made Dahal insecure, will do what he has done in the BY ZIYU LIN leaders have interpreted Dahal’s and he is bargaining to secure 50% past: ditch the UML to partner with statement as a message to UML of seats for Maoists in the unified the NC.” PAGE 8-9 Chair KP Oli: I will stay within party. The UML, given its strength, Although technical issues like the alliance only if I am made is unlikely to accept that demand. choosing temporary headquarters of the PM, or at least the unified This has given the NC a chance provinces, appointing the Heads of SEPARATED AT BIRTH party’s Chair. to drive a wedge between the two State and electing the Upper House Maoist spokesperson Pambha communist parties. seem to be delaying the transfer of Cartoonists in the Nepali media have had Bhusal told Nepali Times that Mahendra Yadav, Minister for power, the game of thrones playing a field day ridiculing and casting doubt Dahal is not toying with the idea of Drinking Water and Sanitation, out after the parliamentary polls is that the promised unification of the UML leading the next government with was one of the first NC leaders what is actually causing difficulties and Maoists will actually occur. the backing of the NC and Madhesi to propose Dahal as the new in the changing of guard. PAGE parties, but added: “Our party PM. “Given his commitment to Om Astha Rai 13 2 EDITORIAL 5 - 11 JANUARY 2018 #891 .com 28.6% ONLINE PACKAGES WHAT'S TRENDING

he UML swept the local elections in is probably much higher because it is only mid-2017, and as a member of the an estimate based on official bank-to-bank TLeft Alliance went on to win a near- transfers and does not include money the 2.5 landslide in parliamentary and provincial million Nepalis working in India bring home. elections last month. Voters showed they Yet, as the graph below shows, we should were attracted by the Alliance’s catchy slogan not be uncorking the sparkling wine just yet. of ‘prosperity with stability’. The 28.6% figure is a national average: a We can’t comment about stability because breakdown by newly-formed federal provinces ONLINE TO OFFLINE the dramatis personae of Nepal’s never-ending shows that although Province 3 (which transition are the same. In the month after includes Kathmandu Valley) has a poverty Unlike traditional businesses, where shops turn to elections, they have shown no real change in headcount of about 12.2%, Province 6 and 2 social media to market products, new Nepali online fashion sites, having established themselves virtually, From Chitwan to Chiyoda their modus operandi. have MPI poverty rates of 51% and 48%. are planning to set up physical stores to promote their by Kunda Dixit But we can hold out some hope on the Nothing surprising there: we have always designs. Meet online designers Akash Shrestha and Go online to read our exclusive, most-read story of prosperity front. Well, maybe not wealth known that the mid-western mountains Meena Gurung who, after their success on Instagram, last week about why there are 10 times more Nepali creation as such, but certainly in reducing and the eastern Tarai have suffered from are setting up an actual studio that gives a better workers in Japan than 10 years ago. Watch the overall poverty. As the result of the latest topographical challenges and state neglect. sensory experience for customers who are increasingly video where Nepalis and Japanese discuss the new challenges faced by workers from Nepal. wave of the Multidimensional Poverty Index The survey results offer an explanation about opting for diverse Nepali designs. Read story: page 8-9. (MPI) survey conducted by the National which dimension of poverty in each of the Most reached and shared on Facebook Planning Commission in 2014 shows, Nepal provinces contributes to deprivation in that has seen the incidence and intensity of part of Nepal. For instance, Province 2 has the Most visited online page poverty fall by more than half – from 59.3% highest number of poor, but is not monetarily (see Guest Editorial in 2006 to 28.6% in 2014 as poor as some of the others. The plains below) . region is kept back by housing, energy use, Nepal’s #1 export: people (see page The figure of 28.6% is slightly higher nutrition criteria and chronic floods Editorial 14-15) ‘2018 should be when a new federal government than the national rate for income poverty of . under a new, inclusive Constitution starts creating 23.8%. The reason for this is that MPI takes There are entrenched pockets of conditions for Nepalis to work and live in Nepal.’ Read into account a diverse range of parameters deprivation in Nepal, and the largest this new year’s editorial and follow our continuous to measure deprivation: it goes beyond contributors to national poverty overall is BUILDING KATHMANDU coverage of Nepal’s migration-based economy at just income figures to factor in nutrition, the high dropout rate and nutrition – factors nepalitimes.com. education, child and maternal mortality, underlined by targets that Nepal did not meet It's not just overseas migration, tens of thousands of Most popular on Twitter household energy use, along with roofing for the Millennium Development Goals. labourers fl ock to Kathmandu from all parts of Nepal and flooring of a house, sanitation and water Measuring poverty is one thing, and beyond, driven by opportunities to earn. Follow us supply. alleviating it is another. Nepal’s poverty rate as we take you to Jhamsikhel to meet one young family A stable Nepal in 2018? from Bardia living and working in a tiny, bare concrete by Yvonne Pande What is surprising is not that poverty has gone down in the last decade despite poor room in the under-construction Hotel Kutumba. Read has decreased dramatically over the last governance. The new government in the new ‘The Nepali people value political stability, and they story: page 5. know fi rst-hand the cost of not having it. If the political decade, but that it has decreased despite year has a chance to ensure stability so we can parties know that, they should not let the people down chronic instability and poor governance augment accountability, improve governance, this time.’ This optimistic op-ed was popular among under successive regimes since the end of and address the structural poverty that stems LONG BEFORE STABILITY readers and generated numerous comments on our the conflict in 2006. One of the reasons is from discrimination and neglect. website. Go online to read the feedback, and send in the $6.1 billion that Nepal receives annually Go online for full report: Stability for uncontrolled infl ation, your own thoughts. from overseas workers, although the figure www.npc.gov.np/images/category/Nepal_MPI.pdf migration of youths and incompetent governance was always there (' A stable Most commented Nepal in 2018?', Yvonne Pande, #890). And such stability will continue to remain QUOTE TWEETS in this New Nepal. Too early to say anything about the Left Alliance ('Shape of Kunda Dixit @kundadixit Chitwan to Chiyoda There has been an things to come', Kunda Dixit, #890). At this exponential growth in the number of Nepalis stage, it is the game of bargaining, within migrating to Japan. Read and watch video about UML, Maoist (Centre), between them, why this is happening and the challenges it is throwing up in this exclusive @nepalitimes and as well as between Madhesi parties. It would be better if the bargaining game suryaparsad upadhya @UpadhyaSp ends quickly, and the inclusion of one or An excellent article. The same can be said the other Madhesi party in the government about NRNs and other South Asians who used is good for relatively more stable polity. a similar loophole in the UK in the nineties and brought cooks to run their restaurants K. K. Sharma and made a lot of money from Nepali cooks coming to UK Yes, the UML and Maoists may have Nepali Times @nepalitimes Edmund Hillary passed away 10 years ago, but their share of blame but to exonerate the legacy of his work in Nepal lives on, writes @ the NC, as this article seems to do, is to lisachoegyal in her column So far so good miss the forest for the trees. Let’s face it, the NC lost and they are acting like sore Helen Clark @HelenClarkNZ losers. Deuba should step down and let This story brings back many memories of the new government, the one with a fresh a decade ago - and of the many years of mandate, deal with formation of the Upper achievements and public service of Sir Ed. House. NC and Deuba have zero moral Nepali Times @nepalitimes authority and legitimacy to deal with this #AQI We don’t know if Christmas celebrations GUEST EDITORIAL issue and would do themselves and the had anything to do with it but the Air Quality Index (AQI) in Kathmandu Valley on 26 SWARNIM WAGLÉ country a favour by getting out of the way. December was in the purple ‘Unhealthy’ band. The NC is on a path of self-destruction Not that the rest of the week was any better. @ and taking the country down with it. USEmbassyNepal Pankaj Nepali Schooling and nutrition Bhushan Tuladhar @BhushanTuladhar Our Christmas gift was “Very Unhealthy” air not PEOPLE AND THE GOVERNMENT just “Unhealthy” which is the norm for this time he National Planning Commission (NPC), with the Oxford The Nepal MPI follows indicators of the Global MPI, of the year. Wouldn’t be surprised if we get a Nobody cares about the poor people Poverty and Human Development Initiative (OPHI), having 3 dimensions and 10 indicators, such as malnutrition, similar gift for New Year. released Nepal’s first official national Multidimensional low education or inadequate sanitation. The latest data of Nepal (‘Nepal’s #1 export: People’, T Editorial, #890). The rich criminals of Poverty Index (MPI) survey last month. adapts the Global MPI to national needs, for example in the The index shows 28.6% of Nepalis are still case of Nepal to including roofing materials as one of the new Kathmandu get richer each day, and Weekly Internet Poll #891 multidimensionally poor – meaning that their lives are indicators of poverty measurement. poor Nepalis keep dying in the deserts of Qatar or Saudi, while the women are sold Q. Will we have more political stability in 2018 compared battered by several deprivations simultaneously. But it also The index exposes substantial variations in the rate of to 2017? shows that Nepal halved its official MPI between 2006 to poverty across the newly formed seven provinces of Nepal. in brothels worldwide. Nepal is ruled by 2014. This confirms that the pace of poverty reduction in Provinces 6 and 2 have the highest rates of multidimensional criminals and smugglers. Total votes: 186 Nepal, measured both on monetary and non-monetary poverty – about half the people are poor. Children in Nepal Ramesh Magar terms, has been impressive. are disproportionately affected by multidimensional poverty. But the span of human deprivation, especially concerning As the new government takes up its responsibilities, the We are used to blaming government nutrition and schooling, poses a formidable policy challenge MPI can be used to shape budgets and multi-sectoral policies in specific geographical areas. The MPI, disaggregated by that will accelerate progress in the coming period. for everything. Our society needs to face provinces, gives Nepal’s new beginning as a federal country the reality of international migrations. an influential policy headstart. Today, my family is ready to send me OPHI Director Sabina Alkire said at the launch of the to the gulf with loan while I’m asking for Weekly Internet Poll #892 report: “The scale of national poverty reduction is both Swarnim Waglé is the vice-chair of the some capital to work here. To vote go to: www.nepalitimes.com dramatic and encouraging … this Nepali achievement shows National Planning Commission. Ashish Panday Q. Do you understand why formation of a new government that change is not only possible but can also be accelerated.” is delayed after 2017's elections?

Publisher and Chief Editor: Kunda Dixit Associate Editor: Om Astha Rai | Design: Kiran Maharjan Published by Himalmedia Pvt Ltd | Patan Dhoka, Lalitpur | GPO Box 7251 Kathmandu Nepali Times on Facebook [email protected] | www.nepalitimes.com | www.himalmedia.com | Tel: 01-5005601-08 Fax: +977-1-5005518 Follow @nepalitimes on Twitter Marketing: Arjun Karki, Surendra Sharma [email protected] | Subscriptions: Santosh Aryal [email protected] Follow @nepalitimes on Instagram Printed at Jagadamba Press | 01-5250017-19 | www.jagadambapr.com 5 - 11 JANUARY 2018 #891 3 5 - 11 JANUARY 2018 #891 3 4 BUSINESS 5 - 11 JANUARY 2018 #891

learnt to work around it. He has cultivated high-level contacts in the government and Kathmandu society -- learning lessons from the illogical Who needs fire trucks? and nonsensical hurdles he faced at every step. Kobold’s unusually titled book offers revealing insights about Nepali ‘The media called me a Rock Mafia’, he says, remembering the society’s relationship with foreigners uproar caused in the local media when the issue of using the rock So, what’s your story?” I asked the second expedition, during every problem facing Nepal: ‘the from Everest for his watches Michael Kobold, the German- which he was saved by the Sherpas youth of this country have to go became controversial in 2012. “born, American watchmaker climbing with him. Afterwards, he to the Gulf to work for a meagre In his book, he recounts and mountaineer, at Himalayan established the first ‘Made in Nepal’ amount, and what is worse, parents the story of his tussle with a Java in Thamel. “In one line, I love brand of watches training the same are forced to sell their children for government official who was your country,” he says, adding Sherpas as watchmakers. a petty sum of less than a thousand reluctant to grant permissions for grandiosely, “probably more than “After I experienced the dollars.’ the fire truck expedition because many of your countrymen love it.” risks involved in high altitude After having touched all the the official was brokering a deal to Kobold has recently written mountaineering, through a near populist nerves to tug at Nepali buy 50 substandard fire trucks from a book about a fantastical road fatal personal incident, I wanted heartstrings, including the 2015-16 India. expedition in which many to help the Sherpas,” he says Blockade by the Indian government In the end, unable to resist the candidly. “What they did for us after the Constitution was insurmountable political pressure cannot be paid back, but I wanted promulgated, Kobold is literally Kobold managed to throw on the to do something to keep them away trying to ‘sell air,’ as one of his official, he asked him, ‘Why are from the dangerous lives they lived prospective Nepali sponsors put it. you so determined to get these fire CONNECTING DOTS year after year.” He partnered with former US engines to Nepal?’ Dinkar Nepal Kobold had used a piece of ambassador to Nepal, Scott H Delsi, Kobold writes that he waited for rock from the top of the world to set up the Soarway Foundation the official to sign the papers, took to make the dial of the watch, to raise awareness for earthquake it in his hands, and replied ‘Unlike Hollywood and Bollywood ‘Kobold Himalaya’, which he preparedness in Nepal in 2015. you, I love your country.’ celebrities, as well as world- designed himself for Kobold Nepal, Ironically, three weeks later the big Making allowances for the renowned mountaineers, a company owned by Namgel and Kobold’s frantic attempt to launch one hit, on 25 April that year. self-aggrandising, idealistic adventurers and diplomats, drive Thundu Sherpa. his dream via crowdsourcing after “The expedition has grown in romanticism and poor attempts fire trucks into Nepal. Kobold’s book is about his having failed to get international these seven years in its scope,” at humour in many places of the He has collected some ‘used gratitude for the Sherpas, his sponsors. He says he penned it in Kobold tells me, still highly hopeful hastily written book, it is indeed but serviceable’ fire trucks in the friendship with the American actor only 12 days to meet the deadline that he will be able to pull it out an inspiring tale of how a foreigner US, and wants to gift them to the James Gandolfini, who died of a to release the book in time for despite the hurdles he has faced. has learnt the tricks of negotiating Nepal government, after generating heart attack in 2013, and about Christmas. His friend’s untimely death, lack a complex society bereft of norms enough pomp about the initiative to the fire truck expedition to Nepal, ‘My heart breaks thinking about of funds, the earthquake, and the and ideals. create a buzz around the world. which he initially planned to the miseries the people of this Indian Blockade were not the only And given the lack of Kobold came to Nepal to undertake with James but now has beautiful country suffer every day,’ challenges. infrastructure and trained human summit the highest mountain in the decided to execute as a tribute to he writes, echoing the seemingly Kobold also faced the resource in our unplanned cities, world, which he did successfully the actor. readymade concerned but foreign frustrating inefficiency of the Nepal definitely needs fire trucks, Who needs fire trucks? – twice. He escaped death during is viewpoint. Kobold touches almost Nepal Government machinery and and this expedition.

makes the food stand out.” provide tourists and businessmen a Chinese tourists are the second place to experience their true food largest group of visitors to Nepal, culture in a foreign country,” says following those from India, and Sharma. “However, the restaurant is A real taste of China their number for the first half of becoming increasingly popular with 2017 grew 36% over the same locals as well.” period the year before. Soaltee now sends some staff to China for six months of language training Signature Dishes every year and guarantees that at Soup: Chicken Bamboo Shoot Hot and Sour Soup least two receptionists can speak Appetiser: Sichuan Style Fried Chicken (Non-veg), Mandarin. Shredded Crispy Potato (Veg) The interior décor of Bao Xuan Dim Sum: Steamed Chicken Sui Mai includes authentic Chinese features Main Course: Roasted Cantonese Lamb (Non-veg), like wooden fences, with Chinese Clay Pot Seasonal Vegetable patterns separating tables into Rice and Noodles: Stir Fried Noodles, Sautéed balconies. The wooden tables have Vegetable Fried Rice neatly folded cloth napkins and Chinese porcelain ware. Kathmandu: “We are targeting Chinese Lobby level, Soaltee Crowne Plaza tourists for sure since they are 01-4273999 (6540) increasing rapidly and we want to BIZ BRIEFS

services, and on strengthening livelihood Turkish Toys initiatives for home-based workers. Keeping in line with its environmental ZIYU LIN policies, Turkish Airlines has revamped its selection of in-flight toys—all made from Fresher Face natural materials— to Hishila Maharjan won the fourth Liril Fresh provide additional Face contest by Unilever Nepal. She was entertainment for kids awarded a cash prize of Rs100,000 along while simultaneously with a Hero Duet Scooter. introducing them to the concept of of endangered species. featuring authentic and high-end Bao Xuan (which means Bao Xuan, in Soaltee Chinese cuisine. ‘treasure attic’) arrives at a time Immunity Boost Most readers of this paper will when the volume of Chinese visitors After calculating the Body Mass Index of Crowne Plaza, remember China Garden, which to Kathmadu is on the rise. The 35,801 students, from Kathmandu, Pokhara Bao Xuan has replaced with a restaurant recently hosted a high- and Narayangadh, and checking cleanliness features authentic fusion of exclusive Sichuan, Hunan level delegation of government and drinking water facilities of schools, the and high-end Chinese and Cantonese menu items. In officials from China. “They told us Dabur School Immuno Champ program November, the restaurant held its they were really impressed with the 2017 ended in December. first Dim Sum Festival, offering a authenticity of the ambiance and the cuisine. special menu to provide Kathmandu food,” recalls Pratiksha Basnet of residents a new dumpling dimension Soaltee Crowne Plaza. Projects evaluated Starring more to add to their momo experience. “The technique of Chinese foods In December, the SAARC Soulmates Enterprises at Old Baneswor ZIYU LIN “We were really encouraged by the is its ingredients,” explains Master Development Fund team and First Step Enterprises at Kalimati are response, and hope to have more Chef Dhan Kumar Limbu, who hosted project meetings now selling Goldstar Shoes. The brand such festivals,” says restaurant has specialised in Chinese cuisine on strengthening of water, also has franchise showrooms at Civil Mall, here are Chinese restaurants, manager Rohit Sharma. for two decades. The restaurant sanitation and hygiene Sundhara and Jyoti Bhawan, Jamal. and then there are Chinese distinguishes itself from other Trestaurants. Chinese cuisine Chinese restaurants in the Valley is among the most popular by its ingredients: except for fresh worldwide, and a major projection vegetables and chicken, all other of Beijing’s soft power. In South raw ingredients and seasonings are Asia, even the better Chinese imported from China. restaurants tend to not be the real Says Limbu: “We have six thing, and that includes most kinds of flours only for Dim Sum. Chinese restaurants in Kathmandu Everyone can make Chinese food – except Bao Xuan, which has just with the recipes, but it is the opened in Soaltee Crowne Plaza, original taste of the ingredients that 5 - 11 JANUARY 2018 #891 NATION 5

n an office in Hotel Kutumba, Raju BK bends over a plate of dal Ibhat, his infant son perched on one knee. A couple of colleagues are scattered around the room intently scooping up handfuls of food from plates on their laps. Raju’s bhauju is crouched on the floor cooking over an open flame and clothes are drying on a short line strung along a wall. Hotel Kutumba in Jhamsikhel is about six months away from opening. Raju, 25, has been living in this bare, concrete room, about 3m x 3m for a year. His wife and year-old son joined him six months ago. Scattered throughout the six- storey building are other groups of workers, about 20 in total. Raju’s family is from Bardia, but other groups come from Saptari, Sunsari, Sindhuli, Kailali and even India to work in Kathmandu's construction industry. They will work, eat and sleep together in this concrete shell for PHOTOS: MARTY LOGAN months, then move down the road to the next project. just Indian Rs300. concrete floor feeding her six-day- Standing on the same roof a few Some workers, like Raju, have He found this work by chance. old daughter. A small wood fire days later, owner Sanjaya Parajuli been toiling and living in these While staying in a hotel in Thamel burning in a shallow, metal dish points out the location of the hotel’s grey structures for a decade or more waiting for a work visa to a Gulf next to her provides extra warmth. future beer garden, on this clear BUILDING A HOME to send money to families, and country 10 years ago, he ran out of Her husband Mahesh says they autumn afternoon gifted with a only making quick visits home for money. Taking a friend’s advice, he wanted to have the baby at his view of gleaming, snow-topped holidays. worked on a building site to cover home in India, across the border Himalayan peaks. While the struggle of Nepali his costs. The visa never came, but from Sunsari district, but it takes He has been building the 22- workers in the Gulf or Malaysia he has been working ever since. three days to travel there from room boutique hotel on family gets much attention, the plight of “It’s tedious but the income Kathmandu. Instead the baby was land for three years, including an Nepalis working in Nepal seldom is good,” Raju says, standing in a delivered in the maternity hospital interruption after the earthquake. makes it to the news. bare corner room with gaping holes in Thapathali. Parajuli thinks the location is Raju is the leader of the ‘Bardia where the windows will be, among Asked how they feel about an advantage, close to the UN and Group’, which includes his wife bags of cement and a pile of sand on living in the half-finished building offices of international non-profits. Geeta, younger brother Ganesh and the floor. “I want to go back home with the child Mahesh answers: Rooms here will cost $75-100. Watch how various groups of migrant workers build a but I can’t make this kind of money “We are happy, we will have to be He says he’s happy with the job hotel, and community, in the capital Kathmandu. two teenagers. He earns Rs500 for an eight-hour day plus overtime, there,” he says here for five or six more months.” the workers are doing, although, and the group works 7 days a week. Raju’s wife Geeta, 22, also works Up on the roof shovelling sand, because labour is so scarce, Geeta and other women receive in the building, mainly cleaning. “I Rita Urao, 28, says there is work occasionally they get transferred to nepalitimes.com about two-thirds of men’s salary for feel better in the village, my whole at home in Sunsari but they don’t other sites. the same work. family is there," she says, "here I get paid monthly, unlike here. “I Asked how long they plan to PEOPLE POWER: (above) Workers demolish a Raju says he is better off doing have to clean floors and carry bricks can save some money but back keep working in the capital, Raju’s building in Kupondole. construction than he was working for my husband’s work." home you finish what you earn. It wife Geeta says: “We have the kids (Top) Raju BK, wife Geeta and son Roman in in the garment industry in Delhi, In a dim, corner room, one storey is difficult, but what choice do us to send to school: I think we will the unﬁ nished Hotel Kutumba in Jhamsikhel. where he toiled 12 hours a day for below, Sunita Urao is sitting on the poor people have?" stay a little longer.” (Below) Rita Urao says the advantage of working in Kathmandu so she can save some money. (below) Geeta rocks Roman to sleep in his roof-top bed.

MARTY LOGAN Building Kathmandu

RaRajajan MaM gag r atat thee siti e ofof hisis cururreentnt prprojojece t inin Sururyayabibinanayayakk, Bhahaktktapapuurr.

Climbing the ladder en years ago Rajan Magar (above) was hefting to the skilled ones. They work 10 hours minus 1 hour loads of sand and bricks at building sites in a doko for lunch and 30 minutes for tea. Those conditions Tslung on his forehead. Today he is the boss of a are a combination of union rules and terms adopted handful of labourers who construct the houses that he by a group of about two dozen builders operating in has been hired to build. Suryabinayak Municipality. Magar, 28, says moving up from labourer to “Workers are hard to fi nd but I have seven or contractor is all about dedication. “I worked very very eight people who are continuously with me,” he says. hard to get to this point. If you’re willing to work this They are from Sindhuli, Rasuwa and Sindhupalchok. If hard then defi nitely you’ll succeed.” necessary, Magar says, he can ‘borrow’ workers from He also had a headstart: his father was a builder fellow contractors, and vice-versa. in Dolakha, where he grew up in “very humble A former colleague notes that Magar throws circumstances”. a party for his workers after each job is fi nished, Magar says the amount he makes on each job suggesting that is one reason why the young man is depends on how quickly his team works, and how prospering. many ‘extras’ the homeowner requires, like the ornate “I’m doing well,” the builder agrees. “I’m able columns that fl ank the front doors of many houses. to send my child to a good school.” His plans include He pays his workers Rs1,200 per day, Rs1,500 investing future profi ts in land speculation. 6 NATION 5 - 11 JANUARY 2018 #891 Sir Ed’s funeral Edmund Hillary passed away 10 years ago this week, but the legacy of his work in Nepal lives on

to be with us this morning?” Andrew had us arrive last, with the congregation already seated, and we negotiated the length of the church to discreet whispers and nudges. It was a shock to see Sir Ed’s body waiting in front of the altar, the casket grandly draped in the flag with white lilies, medals and ice axe. June rested a gentle hand of farewell, the Sherpas laid their well-rehearsed khatas, and the cameras clicked and purred. The service was a blur of music, hymns, tributes and speeches. Seated in my black hat, grandchildren fidgeted in the pews, an eccentric niece laid on healing hands, and Elizabeth fussed with her walking stick, then suddenly it was all over. The defence force escort hoisted the huge casket onto their uniformed shoulders and our little procession followed, led by June and Helen, with suitably bowed heads. PHOTOS: LISA CHOEGYAL Leaving the cathedral, a light rain matched the mood. Our he call from Lady June cortege of black cars followed the Hillary came early one hearse through the hushed streets Topaque Kathmandu of Auckland. “Delays likely! State morning. “Lisa, sorry to wake you FOND FAREWELL: Friends of Edmund funeral!” motorists had been but I promised to let you know — Hillary, led by Ang Rita Sherpa, lay warned for days to avoid the route Ed just left us. Please come.” ceremonial khatas on his casket during from the cathedral down Remuera It was 11 January 2008, and the state funeral service at the Auckland Road to the crematorium. The life throughout New Zealand nation’s standards flew at half- paused as the loss was digested. Cathedral ten years ago (above). mast and the museum stretched a The day had arrived, the lanky The New Zealand fi ve dollar note massive mural of Everest across its hero was gone, his craggy face depicting Edmund Hillary (right). portico. familiar from the country’s five Every inch of the way was dollar bills. Sir Edmund Percival lined with people, some waving, Hillary KG ONZ KBE was not only some silent, some wiping away the conqueror of Mt Everest but a a tear, and many spontaneously statesman, ambassador and knight at Sir Ed’s home. Tributes the sock drawer. Norbu Tenzing ceremony –- it was, but none of clapping in admiration of the of the garter. poured in, invitation lists were Sherpa, Tenzing Norgay’s us remember hearing it. Can the world’s most famous New assembled and a national holiday distinguished son, was gentle and Hillary College kids do a farewell Zealander. Toddlers were lifted declared. Mark Sainsbury would supportive. Jan Morris popped haka for the departing hearse by proud parents, and teenagers commentate the worldwide in, dishevelled from her London -– they did, and it was terrific. in togs ran barefoot, wrapped in SO FAR SO GOOD TVNZ coverage, and on the flight, and George Lowe, already Health and safety objected to the Kiwi flags. Uniformed firemen Lisa Choegyal night of the funeral Tom Scott’s confused and forgetful with his Alpine Club members’ ceremonial at the station opposite Ed’s documentary Remembering Ed final illness. archway of steel ice axes outside house saluted, old men snapped would be broadcast — we had Prime Minister Helen Clark the cathedral — hold them upside to attention, and I even saw a Television presenter Mark helped him shoot it in Nepal. kicked off her shoes and relaxed down. Whatever the problem, woman waving her dog’s paw. Sainsbury, on the road to Five of Ed’s Khumbu Sherpa on the sofa as she discussed Andrew made it go away. The government driver was wrapt, Wellington, screeched to a halt friends and Elizabeth Hawley arrangements with June whilst For two days and one whole shaking his head in wonder as he and headed his aging white Jaguar were government guests, and I chatting Himalayan Trust with night the line of mourners steered through the crowds: “In all back to Auckland. The news flew with them from Kathmandu Ang Rita and Nepali politics with snaked down the Parnell streets, my years I’ve never seen anything reverberated around the world. In to New Zealand helping with Elizabeth. I helped the generously queuing to pay their respects, like this.” A large Maori man ran later years Ed delighted in meeting the hiccups — a ticket did not bearded Jim Wilson nervously filing past the greatest Kiwi who onto the road to lay flowers in people who told him: “I thought match the passport name and rehearse his best friend’s eulogy. was lying in state in Auckland tribute on the bonnet, causing you’d been dead for ages!” Now a suitcase went missing. In We dispensed endless cups of cathedral. Late that evening I an anxious moment but security he was. Auckland we were welcomed tea and a thoughtful convent had slipped through a side door to held their nerve. I sat next to an June was pausing at the traffic at the aircraft door by a tall sent a huge cold ham — meals, marvel at the diversity — old and unusually silent Elizabeth Hawley lights on her way to the hospital official in a pinstriped suit with friends and family came and went young, smart and scruffy, trim and a teenage granddaughter, when Sir Ed succumbed to heart a military bearing and distracted around the kitchen table. and tattooed, small children in grieving in black lace and red failure. Ironically it was the day demeanour. “I’m Elizabeth One afternoon, I slipped away pushchairs, and even hospital lipstick. he was due to be discharged — Hawley, not you!” Andrew with June’s daughter Sue and patients on drips pushed by their The levity lifted when we registered as ‘Vincent Stardust’ to Beattie reeled at the fierce little grandson Sam to the undertakers nurses. Beneath the modern reached the end of the journey, mislead the media. lady in a wheelchair berating where Ed’s coffin was open for stained glass windows, the Indian away from the crowds and faced Everyone wanted to be part of us for losing her luggage, but the family — he looked peaceful community had lit lamps beneath only by finality. With difficulty the burra sahib’s departure. A state I was used to it — the bag had enough, but I wished I had not a garlanded portrait, his medals the men of the family, led by son funeral in Auckland cathedral had been left behind in her bedroom. gone. were arrayed on blue velvet Peter, hoisted the heavy coffin always been on the cards, a rare He helped us whizz through “Call Andrew, he’ll fix it!” cushions, and the ice axe used across the courtyard for cremation, honour and New Zealand’s first immigration and handed me was the mantra in the mourning on Mt Everest in 1953 lay on the the Dean said a few words, and for many years. Whilst family and the keys to a large gold Toyota Hillary household during those flag-decked casket. One of the afterwards I found daughter Sarah friends mourned, the government sedan before hurrying off to days leading up to the state naval cadets guarding each corner sobbing in the Ladies. rallied, the services cranked into another appointment. Once we funeral. Andrew Beattie would swayed precariously. It was several days later that I gear, and the clergy dusted off were settled in the guesthouse arrive looking harassed as though When the day arrived, we wondered aloud: “Where’s the ice their ceremonial vestments. Holy opposite Ed’s house in Remuera, he should be somewhere else, dressed in black and assembled axe?” A national treasure usually Trinity was made ready for the the Sherpas lined up to practise always smart in suit, white shirt early at Ed’s house. The decision enshrined in the Auckland lying in state, and the adjacent St laying khatas on the luggage and sombre tie, twitching gently was made not to wear hats, but Museum, it had lain atop the Mary’s Church cleaned and wired rack while I helped Elizabeth at the pressure of keeping all the I wore one anyway. June was casket, last seen leaving in the for sound and screen. Expanses of replenish her wardrobe, then we organisational balls in the air. serene and severe in black, her hearse. June looked sharply at carpets were laid, pews scrubbed walked across the road to June. Smiling kindly, he reassured us blue grey hair swept into the Andrew. Andrew blanched and and flowers arranged. The organ The house was full of flowers whatever it was would be solved. usual immaculate chignon. went quiet. After some tense was tuned, choirs rehearsed and and family, and the doorbell and “He’s marvellous, he thinks of Helen Clark, the family and I moments on the Blackberry with chosen soloists practiced — Dame telephone never stopped ringing everything,” sighed Lady June. left in a cavalcade of large shiny the suited leg jiggling in agitation, Malvina Major, a Tongan tenor with more condoling friends and A proposal that Tibetan government cars, with Andrew in Andrew confirmed that the and a violinist friend. overseas guests, the great and prayer flags decorate the the driveway twitching more than undertakers had retrieved it after The Prime Minister’s office led good of mountaineering and polar cathedral — no way, Ed was usual, watch checking and mobile the ceremony — rescued from the funeral preparations. The wake exploration. June was dazed but a New Zealander for heaven’s phone glued to his ear. I travelled incineration for all time. would be hosted by the Governor- doing well. The Herald of Arms, sake. Refined jostling for invites with the oldies, Elizabeth Hawley General in the sylvan gardens of a sympathetic dapper chap with — the Prime Minister seated and Ed’s elder sister June Carlile Government House, and friends thick white hair, came to collect with the widow, of course. — more than a little vague she nepalitimes.com invited to dinner afterwards, Ed’s medals, which after a panic Can the bell from Antarctica’s turned to me as we set off: “What Go online for more pictures. catered in a white marquee were eventually found safe in HMNZS Endeavour be rung at the lovely weather! Is Ed well enough We had the second westerly front of this winter fi zzle out halfway through Nepal again, dumping all its precipitation in the far-western mountains. There is still some cold air and water vapour trailing and this could mean some snow fl urries in the mountains on Friday. This will leave us with a smoggy weekend in Kathmandu, with maximum temperature dipping into the mid-teens because of passing clouds and night minima at 2-4 Celsius. Tip of the week: no strenuous exercise outdoors in the mornings.

FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY 16° 17° 17° #891 5 - 11 January 2018 3° 3° 3°

His portrait of Chilean composer Violetta Parra in Santiago is set against a backdrop of red, yellow and blue Dhaka patterns. The healing hands mural he created in Cambodia too is weaved into beautiful Dhaka patterns. The psychedelic cove in Vietnam also resonates the same style. “My inspiration comes in different medium or in different contexts: people, places, nature, history, or it could be the energy of the moment. Whatever touched me in that present moment is reflected in my work. But having said that, I am very much drawn to patterns. I see that in nature and fabrics of different ethnic groups, PAINTS AND PATTERNS: SAHINA SHRESTHA and that is why you will see plenty Sramdip Purkoti (below) works of repetitive patterns in most of my on his calli-graffiti inspired by work,” says Purkoti. Ranjana lipi in Sao Paulo, Brazil. Patterns and geometric shapes The healing hands mural (above) ucked away on a wall on the are also recurring themes in many painted in Cambodia and Purkoti's streets of Beco do Batman, of the tattoos he has worked on. first mural (left) created during Kolor Tthe meeting point of three Purkoti picked up tattooing in Kathmandu in 2013. alleyways in Sao Paulo known Vietnam, after fellow backpackers SATTYA MEDIA for its gallery of murals by artists wanted his designs as tattoos. A from around the world, visitors are local tattoo artist gave him a four- greeted by gold and silver writings hour crash course and the rest he in an 11th century script from learnt from YouTube. Working as halfway around the world in Nepal. a tattoo artist has given him the The calli-graffiti, in Ranjana means to travel and paint murals. lipi, painted against a black “There have been people backdrop, easily stands out amidst who have donated paint and Nomad art the dense concentration of wall art commissioned artwork,” says that lines the street. It is the latest Purkoti, who has had his share work of Sramdip Purkoti, a Nepali of woes travelling with a Nepali artist who has set out backpacking passport. When he tried to cross around the world creating street art. into Singapore from Malaysia he “It is the pursuit of happiness was stopped at the border, while that makes me do what I do,” his visa process to Argentina took explains Purkoti, “and I am ages. happiest when I am travelling and “The experience in Malaysia creating art.” Currently in Brazil, taught me a huge lesson. Now I Purkoti has travelled and painted don’t try to go to a country without in Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, a visa first, even if it says they have Laos and Chile after embarking on visa-on-arrival for Nepalis,” says his global backpacking trip from the artist, who has tried to restore Malaysia in 2014. his country’s image by signing A self-taught artist, Purkoti all his artwork: ‘With love from painted his first mural in Patan Nepal’. during the Kolor Kathmandu When he started, Purkoti’s work project in 2013, which brought was based on stencil and spray, but together national and international he has since experimented with artists to paint 75 murals doodles and these days he works representing 75 districts around on calli-graffiti. Although the Kathmandu. He painted a large medium changes, he says his art cat with Dhaka pattern paying hasn’t: “My art is me, representing homage to Tehrathum, the second my experience, observations, largest producer of Dhaka textile social encounters, my take on the in Nepal. Dhaka pattern has since unknown.” been Purkoti’s signature style, the Future plans? “To travel to recurring pattern showing up in a more countries and paint even majority of his work. bigger better murals.” GERSON AREIAS 8

Online designers get real

PHOTOS: ZIYU LIN

akash Shrestha and Meena which serves as a physical shop as smartphones, increasing Internet Gurung got to know each well as a workshop in Gairidhara. penetration and the growing Aother on Facebook, then When Aakash set up the popularity of social networking, met face-to-face, and now sell Instagram account for his brand in young Nepalis are ripe for the their fashion line on Instagram. 2014, he never expected he would emerging e-commerce market, which Stylists who made it They represent a new breed of be using it to fill orders for fashion includes dozens of local online Nepali millenials who are blending items worth Rs55,000. shopping platforms. Young, digital big on social media traditional talent with dissemination “This is quite motivating,” native fashion designers started their and sales through the Internet. recalls Aakash, who now deals with businesses even before Facebook open stores to woo While randomly searching more than 100 inquiries monthly and Instagram had become a popular ZIYU LIN Facebook for like-minded people, on Instagram, replying to every platform to stalk products and place more customers Aakash came across Meena. customer query about things such orders. Four months later, they were as measurements, price as well as Today, social media provides collaborating in a clothing design detailed questions about clothes. shortcuts for anyone who wants to studio called BORA X Nepamode, With the rapid uptake of commercialise designs, even though 5 - 11 JANUARY 2018 #891 9 there is a wide range in quality. “Designers want to have more Almost 200 local fashion brands exposure through a physical store are now selling on Instagram and but they don’t have enough money Facebook. to set up their own,” says Binam Shreeya Shakya Risal says she Shakya, co-founder of The Local prefers original designs of local Project Nepal. designers: “I will choose to buy “If the brand doesn’t sell well, them only if they have unique and we may suggest they take a break and creative designs with better quality come back with a new collection,” materials.” explains Shakya. “People can get to Littlethingsktm is another wherever they want to by motorbike fashion line with a diverse collection in Kathmandu, and there are of local designs that is choosy about customers who still prefer to see the reviewing products pitched by designs and touch the materials and designers and artists. “The review try them on,” he adds. team consists of three persons, The Local Project Nepal now has including two designers and a social five brands lining up for display, media manager. We review the and is planning to open more designs according to several rules,” physical stores in other parts of the says co-founder Sabin Bhandari. city. Meanwhile, Aakash and Meena “There have been a couple of are working on new collections, occasions when our team missed out managing the Instagram account and plagiarised designs and sometimes setting up the studio at the same customers let us know about the time. sources. We either take down the design or attribute it to the original artists,” Bhandari says. ONLINE TO OFFLINE Unlike traditional businesses where shops turn to social media to market products, new Nepali online sites having established themselves virtually are planning to set up physical stores to promote their designs. Physical presence gives a better sensory experience ONE-PERSON ARMY: Meena (left) and Aakash which gave his designs a blend of western and for customers, and increases the (left, bottom) describe themselves as a one-person eastern aesthetics. exposure of trending designers. army. They manage social media accounts, pick the Littlethingsktm opened its first physical store in Meet Akash Shrestha and Meena Gurung, two fabrics, contact the tailors, and sometimes sew as Sanepa recently (above). Displayed are badges, Littlethingsktm opened its first online fashion designers setting up an actual physical store in Sanepa recently studio that gives a better sensory experience for well. cards, totes, mugs and cover sheets featuring the and is already frequented by trendy customers. Aakash studied fashion design in Paris for a year, patterns of Nepali designers. young Nepalis and expats. Displayed nepalitimes.com through its French windows are badges, cards, totes, mugs and cover sheets with patterns of Nepali designers. Since last September, the business has launched a start-up to sell products online through a website, and advertise its products on Instagram. “Some of our regulars still prefer to come to our shop to purchase,” says Bhandari, “but there are quite a few new customers who are not active online, and old customers who keep coming back.” The Local Project Nepal and Timro Concept opened early this year, borrowing the idea of creating co-working spaces where designers rent a space and sell their products. In Local Project Nepal, designers take three-month contracts and pay rent according to the amount of space they occupy, with the store earning commissions on sales. 10 5 - 11 JANUARY 2018 #891 EVENTS MUSIC DINING GETAWAY Chez Caroline, Swing Dance, Experience French cuisine and the charm of A free class for beginners to learn this Baber Mahal landmark restaurant. The the basics of the Lindy Hop, a umbrella heaters near your table will keep partner dance originated in the you snug. 1920s in Harlem, New York. Chez Caroline, Baber Mahal Revisited, (01) 5 January, 5:30-7:30pm, Moksh, 4263070 Jhamiskhel, (01) 5013554/9813556945, [email protected] Bao Xuan, Dwarika Resort, Authentic fl avours of China can now be tasted To explore nature and the self: a holistic at Bao Xuan, the Chinese specialty restaurant lifestyle retreat, drawing on Vedic principles, The Art Market, Hydro Expo, at Soaltee Crown Plaza. Among a range of Buddhist philosophy and Himalayan Come and shop for contemporary and For the fi rst time in Nepal, an exhibition Cantonese, Hunan and Schezwan dishes, practices. The Himalayan range will surely unique art pieces by professional artists, showcasing various hydropower-related Lantern Prawn speaks loud. Try it for either peek out to welcome you. photographers, art organisations and products and services is being held. More lunch or dinner. Dhulikhel, (01) 4479488, [email protected] designers—their third anniversary. than 100 stalls will feature hydropower Soaltee Crown Plaza, Tahachal, (01) 4273999 6 January, 1-5pm, The Yellow House, Sanepa, producers, manufacturers of products, Abhiyan at Ai-La, (01) 5553869 suppliers, designers, insurance company, Enjoy a live musical performance by Abhiyan Tasneem’s Kings Kitchen, Baber Mahal Vilas, consultants, investors and banking with friends and family for a laid back catch-up. For gourmands of Indian cuisine: Chicken A former Royal Palace turned into a Royal companies. 6 January, 7pm onwards, a Lounge, Kumaripati, Tikka, Mutton Sheekh Kebab and crispy suite, this cosy Vila will make your stay in 5-6 January, Bhrikutimandap, Kathmandu, (01) 5008681 Naan with lemony green chutney. Take Kathmandu feel far away from the city's (01) 5180402, [email protected] your portion home if you do not want to madness. Antique show pieces, painted Arts for Kids, leave a single bite behind. portraits and the welcoming library provide a Hotel Imperial, Pulchowk, 981282727 Rana-era vibe. An opportunity for your 8-14-year-old End your hectic week with a relaxing live Baber Mahal Revisited, (01) 4257655 child to develop art techniques like performance by singer Yam Baral, every Paper Mache, Zentangle doodling, water Friday. Grand Norling Hotel, colouring, animal caricature, origami and 5 January, 6pm onwards, Hotel Imperial Overlooking the golf course, monkeys and DIY frame making. Bonus: fi eld trip, fi lm Kathmandu, Gaushala, 9801084294 deer herds, this hotel will provide you with a screening and their own exhibition. retreat not far from Kathmandu. 7-13 January, 10am-4pm, Sattya Media Mulpani, Gokarneshwor, (01) 4910193, Arts Collective, Jawalakhel, For Registration/ [email protected] Information: 9813485716, [email protected] Balthali Mountain Resort, Surrounded by hills and mountains, this Qigong & Tai Chi, hotel featuring scrumptious food is a must visit destination. Nepal Natural Home and Chai Tea Tai Chi Balthali, Kavrepalanchok, 9851065001, info@ have come together to organise a peaceful balthalimountainresort.com and productive one-day urban Qigong, Tai Alchemy, Chi and meditation retreat. The package This pizzeria and Italian restaurant has one of includes breakfast, lunch and transportation the Valley's greatest pizzas, accompanied by fee. good ambience and service to fi ll your Italian 9 January, 8am-5:30pm, Nepali Natural Home, craving. Gelato or Tiramisu for dessert—you Dhapasi Height, For Registration: 9815912148 Ash King, pick. The Mozart of Romance and singer of hit Saatghumti Chok, Thamel, (01) 4701572 Get engaged, songs like Baarish-Half Girlfriend, Te Amo- Dum Maro Dum, I Love You-Bodyguard and After sharing aspirations for 2018 last DanRan, many more will be performing at the grand week, it is now time to talk about ideas to Japanese Udon noodle is one of the best opening of Turtle Lounge & Club. grow your project with lots of community dishes to help you forget winter woes. This 13 January, 7pm onwards, Turtle Lounge & Club, engagement. little restaurant in Jhamsikhel off ers Prawn Rs 2,000, 9851090349/9813089163/9801031277 5 January, 5pm onwards, Nepal Communitere, Tempura and Chicken Teriyaki that explode Pulchowk, (01) 5530229 with Japanese fl avours. Jhamsikhel, (01) 5521027 The Fort Resort, Music for Kids, Drive 90 minutes from Kathmandu city and Workshop on music, vocal and percussion Album Launch, Bike Farm, you will be buff eted by the chilly Nagarkot alongside Zumba, Hip Hop and Lindy Hop The rebellious new age metal band, A 3-4 hour bike tour to the South of winter wind. This eco-friendly boutique dance class to let your child (5-12 years) dive Underside is releasing its long overdue Lalitpur: Satdobato - Dhapakhel - Nagdaha hotel, built in a traditional style, will be your into their musical journey. ‘Satan in your Stereo’. The EP is mixed and - Badegaun - Godamchaur - Godavari – refuge. 8-12 January, 10am-4pm, Kathmandu Jazz mastered by Sikth’s Justin Hill. Sadobato; distance of around 34km. Nagarkot, (01) 6680069, [email protected] 6 January, 7am onwards, The Bike Farm Nepal, Conservatory, Jhamsikhel, (01) 5013554 / 20 January, 5pm onwards, Purple Haze, Thamel, Jhamsikhel, 9813806446 9813556945, [email protected] 9849276214, fl owerfl [email protected] Hotel Heritage, MISS MOTI-VATION KRIPA JOSHI OUR PICK Saigon Pho, For an authentic experience, get away to this If you know your Pho, then this is the place boutique museum hotel, which incorporates to go for a healthy and hearty Vietnamese the true art and architecture of Nepal along cuisine. Chicken or shrimp Pho, spring rolls, with its traditions and culture. pork ribs, everything is fi nger-licking good. Suryabinayak, Bhaktapur, (01) 6611628, Lazimpat, (01) 4443330 [email protected]

AIR QUALITY INDEX KATHMANDU, 29 December - 4 January 301 – 500 Hazardous 201 – 300 Very Unhealthy 151 – 200 Unhealthy 101 – 150 Opening in Kathmandu on 5 January Unhealthy for sensitive groups 50 – 100 Following the success of the Insidious Moderate 0 – 50 trilogy, the creators have come up with Good another chapter, Insidious: The Last FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY Key, featuring the franchise standout Dr. Dec 29 Dec 30 Dec 31 Jan 1 Jan 2 Jan 3 Jan 4 Elise Rainier. When Rainer and her team With the onset of deep winter, the Air Quality Index for Kathmandu Valley is worsening. Since News Year's Day the investigate a man's claim of a haunting, she daily average of concentration of particles smaller than 2.5 microns suspended in the air has been in the purple 'Very realises that the house is her own family Unhealthy' band. This would make it hazardous to be outdoors and engage in strenuous exercise at any time of day. home. The ﬁ lm, written by Leigh Whannell The reasons for this sharp deterioration include the overnight inversion layer that traps pollutants, the start of the and directed by newcomer Adam Robitel, brick kiln season, heavy traﬃ c, burning of garbage on streets, and road dust. The reading on Thursday, 10AM, at the Miss Moti-vation will not appear from next week while Kripa Joshi is on temporary leave. monitoring station at the US Embassy in Maharjganj was 198, but it was 214 at Phora Darbar. is sure to give nightmares. https://np.usembassy.gov/embassy/air-quality-monitor/ 5 - 11 JANUARY 2018 #891 NATION11

A LONG WAIT: Karma Tshomo and her mother, Wangmo Dorji (right), showing their refugee IDs in Beldangi II, weeks before their resettlement to Massachusetts, USA.

Devi Cheran Acharya and Khina Maya Acharya (far right) have waited three years for a departure date for Canada.

JENNA KUNZE in JHAPA

PHOTOS: JENNA KUZE

s the resettlement program ends in 2018, remaining Arefugees from Bhutan who spent 25 years in eastern Nepal are left with two options: repatriation The end of the road for to the country that exiled them, or assimilation in a country whose constitution denies them citizenship. “Landless, citizenless, homeless, respectless, everything less,” said Kamala Pradam, a 47-year-old Bhutan’s refugees teacher in Beldangi II Camp, who is among the remaining refugees facing an uncertain future. Camps are closing in 2018, and remaining refugees wait to return or move on The Lhotsampa are Nepali- speaking descendants of farmers, many of whom had lived in Bhutan Thimphu will make repatriation able to find work outside the camp, resettlement, including preparing Ram Pradhan for centuries. Nearly 100,000 were possible. though they are at the will of their travel documents and getting “From tomorrow, don’t come forcibly evicted from southern Between 1993 and 2003, the employers. But to stay on in Nepal, vaccinations. But they are still to work, and leave this country,” Bhutan by the King Jigme Singye Bhutan and Nepal governments the refugees would need guarantees waiting for their departure date. Ram Pradhan, 63, was told by his Wangchuk regime starting in 1991, held numerous bilateral talks for like citizenship, work permits, The Acharyas’ long wait is superiors in the Bhutan Army 27 then transported through India to repatriation of 108,000 refugees, all ability to open bank accounts or own an anomaly. The elderly couple years ago. Despite his eastern Nepal where they lived in of which were futile. property. have health issues: he is blind official position and years of UN-supervised refugee camps. Some “Unless they can agree to sit The majority of the refugees and diabetic, requiring insulin service, his own colleagues turned 90,000 have been resettled in third in a meeting, what options do we don’t wish to return to Bhutan or injections two times a day, she is against him when the regime countries in the past decade, and have?” asks Ram Babu Dhakal of remain in Nepal: they had problems hard of hearing. UNHCR says that started evicting the Lhotsampa 8,540 remain in the camps. the Ministry of Foreign Affairs with documents and now want to be disabled and vulnerable populations in 1991. The Lhotsampa accounted for in Kathmandu. The Druk regime reunited with their families abroad. normally receive priority in “The army chased me from my one-sixth of Bhutan’s population insisted during the Joint Verification Rebika Adhikari’s family is in resettlement, but the Acharyas are village,” he said, remembering that before the evictions. The United Process that a majority of refugees the US, and she is virtually alone in still waiting. Of their 11 children, his wife and small children ran all Nations High Commissioner for were Bhutanese, and had emigrated the camp because of late paperwork. five are resettled in the US, two in the way to the Indian border. Refugees (UNHCR) ran the camps, voluntarily. She says: “I don’t have any reason to Canada and four remain in Bhutan, Today, Pradhan lives with his and the resettlement was handled “We are refugees, we will get go back, and I don’t have any reason including one who is in prison for second wife in Beldangi III, all of his by the International Organisation for discriminated everywhere, until and to stay here. I want to move forward, being a dissident. five children have been resettled in Migration (IOM). unless we are not citizens,” says not back.” “If the UN can send us to our son Nebraska State, US, but he has no The UNHCR had three solutions Rebika Adhikari, a 25-year-old single and daughter in Canada, at least they interest in joining them there. He for the refugees: third-country mother from Beldangi II. She works Devi Charan and Khina Maya can look after us,” Khina Maya said. ultimately wants to return to Bhutan, resettlement, repatriation to Bhutan as a teacher outside of the camp in Acharya The couple initially tried to settle otherwise he is happy to stay on in and local assimilation in Nepal. Damak, earning less than her Nepali The Acharyas have been packed in the US, but were denied without Nepal. Since 2007, the third-country co-teachers. and ready to go to Canada for three explanation. “We suffered in Bhutan and the resettlement program has sent 90% Local assimilation into Nepal years now. UNHCR said it doesn’t comment government didn’t see our pain,” he of the refugees to the United States, has happened over the last 25 years. Devi Charan Acharya, 85, and on individual cases, adding that says, “but no one saw our suffering. Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Since they look the same as Nepalis his wife, Khina Maya, 83, completed the final decision remains with the Not government, not people, not any Denmark, Norway, the UK and the and speak the language, refugees are the process for third-country resettlement country. officials.” Netherlands. Of the remaining 8,540 refugees in Beldangi and Sanischare camps, nearly 1,000 are still being processed for resettlement, which UNHCR is wrapping up by December 2018. The program was especially appealing for younger refugees who wished to seek education and opportunities abroad. Unfortunately, it almost always meant family separation. For Karma Tshomo, it was from her father. He remains in Beldangi II, while she and her mother resettle in Massachusetts State in the US. “She is only going for me,” Karma says before departing, nodding at her mother across the room. Their plan is to stay long enough only for Karma to attend college, and then later to return “home,” whether that be in Bhutan or Nepal. Among the remaining refugees, there are those, mostly elderly and those with parents or siblings left behind, who still hope to return to Bhutan. Though UNHCR does not have an exact figure, those opting for repatriation is a small portion of the remaining refugees. Those affiliated with repatriation groups claim the number is around 2,000, but Camp Secretary Tikaram Rasaily, who also supports repatriation, says it is much lower. “Until and unless this repatriation will happen, I’ll be here,” said DB Subba, a member of Bhutan’s Indigenous Peoples Forum within the camp, which fights for return to their motherland. He says only international pressure on 12 5 - 11 JANUARY 2018 #891

HAPPENINGS

‘Dunkirk’ RYAN CHANG PRICE HIKE PROTESTS: Members of student unions protest outside Ratna Rajya Laxmi Campus in Kathmandu on Wednesday. They were demanding the rollback of fuel price orderly, but desperate fashion, they suitablyit bl hheavy subject. bj t ThThe sound d MMUSTUST SSEEEE are an open target for the Nazi dive design, instead of featuring the hikes and immediate release of the results of the proportional representation election. bombers who aim at both the men soaring orchestral score that usually Sophia Pande on land as well as those in the Navy augments these kinds of films, has vessels deployed from England, just been replaced by a monotonous, across the channel. At risk from almost maddening track that beats sea, with U-boats sinking ships that home the stress of war, jarring are then finished off by the dive- viewers and making us want to he problem with Christopher bombers, the men are in a state of stick our fingers in our ears as well Dunkirk TNolan’s , right off the heightened anxiety and there is a as bite our nails. bat, is that if you don’t see it on an palpable sense of fear, which the War is inconceivable to those IMAX screen, as it was intended, film conveys, repeatedly, to the who have never been in it, and the film tends to be a bit of a bore. now also anxious viewer. while Nolan’s efforts to educate This is probably sacrilege to those As we follow two soldiers who us on its horrors is commendable, who did see it on the largest of are trying to make it off the beach, another, far more poetic, film- and a father and son team who set maker makes a much more screens, but what can I say: that’s The Thin off from Weymouth to bring home memorable point with how I felt. A small part of me Red Line remains unconvinced that even had as many soldiers as they can, the (1998) – the great Terrence I seen it on a gargantuan screen, I film relies on set action pieces Malick’s ode to the American bringing together the destinies of air soldiers who fought in the Pacific would still remain slightly blasé BIKRAM RAI about this extremely serious World men, navy soldiers and the infantry during the Second World War. War II film that aims to show to tell the story of a landmark If you have a few hours, find WOMEN IN RED: Women make their way to the Saali River in Sankhu, Kathmandu the gravity of the evacuation at event. The battle left hundreds of it and watch it: it will never leave Valley, on the second day of the Swasthani Brata festival, Tuesday. The month-long festival Dunkirk Dunkirk. thousands of soldiers hopelessly you, unlike , which is is dedicated to God Madhav Narayan and Goddess Swasthani. The film tracks, excruciatingly stranded, almost abandoned by disturbing but so very nebulous slowly, the plight of the men a Britain who held back her full that I can barely recall it a week stranded on the beach at Dunkirk, support in case it would be needed after seeing it. a once Flemish-speaking, now for a last stand against the Nazis. largely Francophone town on the There is always a sense that northern-most tip of France, where we are watching a would-be the allied troops become cornered ‘masterpiece,’ with Nolan intensely Watch trailer online in 1940, driven onto the beach as at the helm (pardoning the pun) the Germans close in. As British trying his damnedest to bring home nepalitimes.com and French troops line up in an an Oscar for making a film about a

BIKRAM RAI HATS OFF: New graduates celebrate during the 43rd convocation of Tribhuvan University in Pulchok on Sunday.

BIKRAM RAI TOPI DIWAS: Youths take a selﬁ e during a program organised to celebrate Dhaka topi day at City Hall, Kathmandu, on Monday.

GLOBAL IME BANK

11 YEARS: Chiranjibi Nepal, Governor of Nepal Rastra Bank, inaugurates the new corporate oﬃ ce of Global IME Bank on the occasion of its 11th anniversary on Tuesday. 5 - 11 JANUARY 2018 #891 FROM THE NEPALI PRESS 13 Remittance slump

Knotty Alliance Rajesh KC in baahrakhari.com, “Come here” 2 January Top corners: Prime Minister Bottom corners: Chairman Ramesh Kumar in There were signs of distress as infrastructure. As a result, Qatar Himal Khabarpatrika, 31 Dec early as 2015, when the number of emerged as the topmost labour 2017-1 Jan 2018 outbound migrant workers began destination for Nepali workers. Separated at birth to fall, and remittance growth However, after a Saudi Arabia- slowed. But this year, the volume of led coalition of West Asian countries Cartoonists in the Nepali media have had a field day ridiculing and remittance itself has declined. began to blockade Qatar last year, casting doubt that the promised unification of the UML and Maoists During all these years of political “Remittance growth has the emirate is in trouble. Ram Prasad will actually occur. instability, Nepal’s leaders were already reached a saturation point, Bhantana of Nepal Association able to keep wrangling for control and it can no longer sustain our of Foreign Employment Agencies without having to address economic economy,” says Nar Bahadur (NAFEA) says: “We hear that many problems. Thapa, Chief of the NRB’s research Nepalis working in Qatar have not No longer. department. received salaries for months.” As the Left Alliance prepares Gulf countries, mired in a Saudi Arabia itself is facing to form the new government, serious political crisis that threatens an economic slowdown mainly there are signs that the engine of to escalate into a war, are not hiring because of a fall in global gas the economy is failing. The Nepal as many migrant workers as they and oil prices. So are other Arab Rastra Bank (NRB) has just released were until a couple of years ago. countries where Nepalis work. scary statistics, warning that the Although the number of Nepalis Malaysia, the only country outside remittance-driven economy is who went overseas for employment of the Gulf that hires thousands of collapsing and Nepalis might be in the first four months of this fiscal Nepali migrant workers every year, pushed further into poverty. year fell by just 1% over the same is now relying more on Bangladeshi In the first four months of period last year, the numbers of workers. this fiscal year, the volume of Nepali workers migrating to Qatar The NRB has already begun to remittance received by Nepal and Saudi Arabia have declined witness impacts of the remittance decreased 1.4% compared with drastically: 23.58% and 49.98% slump on the country’s cash reserve the corresponding period last year. respectively. and balance of payment. Soon, Because remittance makes up After Qatar won the bid to host Nepalis’ purchasing power will nearly one-third of the GDP, even the FIFA World Cup in 2022, it decline, and the government will Fire: Party Unity Rabin Sayami in Nagarik, a small decline could have severe needed a huge labour force to build have to deal with a dramatic rise in Yellow book: Multiparty Democracy 3 January impacts on the economy. stadiums, roads, hotels and other unemployment. Red book: Maoism 14 NATION 5 - 11 JANUARY 2018 #891 A FLOOD OF MIGR

Floods in the Tarai repeatedly inundate villages, submerging villagers in poverty

SHREEJANA SHRESTHA in DHANUSHA

amji Mukhiya lives in a thatched mud hut that may Rcollapse any time if there is another flood. The rising waters in August damaged his house, and he rebuilt this one with loans — not for the first time. Mukhiyapatti Musharniya village is near one of the lowest points in Nepal along the Indian border, and is hit by recurring floods. Extreme weather events caused by climate change, deforestation of the Chure hills and obstruction of natural drainage because of highway embankments and constricted rivers have led to ever-more destructive floods. “I already rebuilt my house four times, and I have not only spent all my savings, but took loans to rebuild every time floods washed it away,” says the 55-year-old have to send them abroad to earn to send my son to Malaysia three in Malaysia if I still had my land,” mission to earn enough to pay back Mukhiya, who sent his eldest son to so we can repay our house loans,” years ago, my loans have now Yadav told us. loans. The few men we spotted, work in Qatar while his second son Mukhiya added. “I think I can grown to Rs1 million,” rued Yadav, The government has a list of were processing their passports and is soon leaving for Malaysia. survive for a few days without food, who survives on the money his 275,723 flood-affected families in work permits to leave. Nepal’s overall poverty rate but not without a house.” sons send home, but has nothing Dhanusha alone from the last 10 Bhikhari Yadav has four sons: may be going down, according to His neighbour Mohan Yadav, left to repay loans or rebuild. years. Nearly 7,000 homes were two have already left for Malaysia the Multi-dimensional Poverty 60, has three sons, one in Mumbai As elsewhere in the Tarai, the damaged and some 3,800 washed and Delhi while another one is Index report released last week by the others in Malaysia. The 2010 floods in Dhanusha have not just away by the Jalad, Kamala and waiting for his work visa for UAE. the National Planning Commission floods washed away his house washed away people’s homes but Jamuni rivers, which are dry now The father has a loan of Rs700,000, (see Editorial, page 2) but here in and all his property. He had also their land and crops. With no in winter, but in summer are raging which he used to rebuild his house rural Dhanusha, floods are pushing taken a Rs100,000 loan to rebuild, home, no crops and the farmlands torrents. and process his sons' employment farmers like the Mukhiyas into but before he could pay it back washed away by the waters, farmers Dhanusha today is devoid of contracts. ever-deeper poverty. the floods in August destroyed have no option but to migrate. young men. Every household has Sunil Kumar Jha of the District “My sons couldn’t finish school everything again. “We are left with nothing, and I several people in India, Malaysia Disaster Relief Committee, because of the floods, and now I “I had to take additional loans wouldn’t have sent my sons to work or the Gulf — most of them on a Dhanusa, admits that indebtedness 5 - 11 JANUARY 2018 #891 NATION 15 ATION Loyalty mocked

epali migrant workers are deemed to be afford tickets to freedom, and they have to endure ‘loyal’ to their employers, but a new Amnesty extremely harsh and inhumane working conditions. NInternational survey suggests that the label Their perseverance earns them the reputation of reveals their vulnerability as well as their virtue. being ‘loyal’ — a label used by recruiters to trap The survey says some recruiters — who trap migrant workers into a vicious cycle of debt and workers into bonded labour by saddling them with deception. huge debts — market Nepali migrants to prospective Publishing the results of the survey in December, foreign clients by highlighting how unlikely they are Amnesty also slammed the Nepal Government for to quit jobs. failing to crack down on recruitment agencies. “The Amnesty International reviewed and analysed Nepali government’s weak enforcement of the law is 100 recruitment websites, and found that Nepali playing straight into the hands of extortionists and workers are frequently advertised using descriptions loan sharks,” said James Lynch, deputy director of such as ‘loyal’ and ‘completely dedicated to work Amnesty's Global Issues Programme. even in adverse situations’. The results of that “Migrant workers all too often end up trapped survey rightly points out that workers are loyal by in the soul-destroying situation of working abroad force, not by choice. for years simply to pay off the huge, often illegal In November 2016, Amnesty interviewed four fees they were charged to take the job. Tackling this Nepali workers who had been deceived by their exploitative industry is a matter of urgency.” recruiters about working conditions in Malaysia. Amnesty International’s survey included mobile When they quit their jobs, they were not given phone surveys with 414 Nepali migrant workers in return tickets, and were able to return home only Malaysia and Nepal. when their families took more loans to buy them tickets. More online: www.amnesty.org/en/latest/news/2017/12/nepal- Not all migrant workers trapped overseas can migrant-workers-failed-by-government-exploited-by-businesses/

ALL PHOTOS: SHREEJANA SHRESTHA

due to recurring floods has RECURRING NIGHTMARE: Ramji Mukhiya impoverished his district: “Building and his wife in front of the house they have a house is the foremost priority rebuilt four times (above). of people here, boys drop out of school and migrate to support their Mohan Yadav has three sons, all of them are families. It is the same in every working as labourers abroad (right). household.” It is no surprise that Dhanusha Ramji Mukhiya's wife points out the roof district has one of the highest damaged by heavy rainfall (below, left). migration rates in Nepal, thanks to the floods that destroy crops, Bhikhari Yadav with his son, who is leaving for farms and homes. It has become a job in UAE (far left). almost impossible for people here to escape this vicious cycle of disasters and indebtedness. 16 5 - 11 JANUARY 2018 #891 Rani Pokhari Fun Park agree with many of you irate entire length to showcase its readers spewing venom at ballistic missiles on Phulpati and I Kathmandu’s newly-elected Shivaratri, and build underground Mayor for what he is doing launch silos there.

to Rani Pokhari. Turning this www.nepalitimes.com historic 16th-century pond into a Sano Tundikhel concrete-rimmed swimming pool This forgotten little brother is a terrible idea. If Mayor Shakya of Tundikhel can be had any intestinal fortitude he recommissioned for the Army’s would turn Rani Pokhari into a hush-hush centrifuge facility much more ambitious Fun Park for making weapons grade with water slides, splash pads, plutonium. swan pedal boats. If he had any imagination (which he obviously Dharara doesn’t) he would also introduce The site of the former tower a high-speed hydrofoil ferry to should also be handed over to the ply between Tri Chandra College Army, where it can rebuild the roundtrip to Durbar High School, minaret in the shape of a missile so commuters could bypass traffic as a decoy to fool spy satellites. jams in the Ratna Park intersection. Not that The Ass has been Tinkune asked for any advice by City Hall, The Mayor should turn this into but if I was, there is a whole bunch Disneyland Kathmandu with of beautification and modernisation Astro Orbitor, Disney monorail, schemes I would propose. These Dumbo the Flying Elephant ideas are top secret so don’t go fantasy ride, and last but not least around blurting them out to the Golden Zephyr anyone: thrill ride. Tundikhel This last bit of open space in Durbar High Kathmandu is the city’s lung. But School it is a diseased lung, so we should Nepal’s first school give it back to the ex-Royal Nepal to be converted Army which used it as a parade into Durbar Mall, ground for the cavalry. HQ should with Cine 4D and be allowed to use the field’s IMAX multiplexes. The Ass

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