9781589804890 FM.Pdf

pcri01eFM_f.qxp 1/3/2008 8:54 AM Page 1 pcri01eFM_f.qxp 1/3/2008 8:54 AM Page 2 pcri01eFM_f.qxp 1/3/2008 8:54 AM Page 3 By Beverly Ellen Schoonmaker Alfeld Foreword by Ron Couch Photography by Jim Smith PELICAN PUBLISHING COMPANY Gretna 2008 pcri01eFM_f.qxp 1/3/2008 8:54 AM Page 4 Copyright © 2008 By Beverly Ellen Schoonmaker Alfeld All rights reserved The word “Pelican” and the depiction of a pelican are trademarks of Pelican Publishing Company, Inc., and are registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Alfeld, Beverly Ellen Schoonmaker, 1946- Pickles to relish / by Beverly Ellen Schoonmaker Alfeld ; photography by Jim Smith. p. cm. Includes index. ISBN 978-1-58980-489-0 (hardcover : alk. paper) 1. Canning and preserving. 2. Pickles. 3. Cookery (Relishes) I. Title. TX603.A37 2008 641.4--dc22 2007041692 Photographic assistance by Justin Allen, Ryan Basten, and Jason Torres Food styling by Beverly Alfeld Research assistance by Kim Alfeld Technical assistance by Tim Alfeld Printed in Singapore Published by Pelican Publishing Company, Inc. 1000 Burmaster Street, Gretna, Louisiana 70053 pcri01eFM_f.qxp 1/3/2008 8:54 AM Page 5 This cookbook is dedicated to my mother, Doris P. Schoonmaker, who has always been supportive of my work and my adventures. pcri01eFM_f.qxp 1/3/2008 8:54 AM Page 6 pcri01eFM_f.qxp 1/3/2008 8:54 AM Page 7 Contents Foreword . 11 Acknowledgments . 13 Introduction . 15 Methods of Food Preservation—Pickle Power—Multi-Disciplinary Education—Philosophy of Balance—Self-Sufficiency—Culinology™ —ECIWO—Learning Styles—Suicide Seeds—Positive Self- Statements—Benefits of Learning Through Recipes—Quickles Chapter 1 The Processing Method . 21 Shelf-Stable Product—Sealing a Jar—Rolling-Water Bath—Low- Acid—High-Acid—pH of Fruits and Vegetables—Headspace— Package Vacuum—Sterilizing Jars and Lids—Canning Equipment—Alfeld Nomenclature System—Filling the Jar— Processing Times—Altitude Conversion—Reactive Metals—Special Techniques—Avoid Problems—Low-Temperature Pasteurization— Process Notebook—Clostridium Botulinum—pH and pH Meters— Alternative Sweeteners—Canning Spices—Further Comments —Jamlady Newsletter Chapter 2 Pickles, Power, and Agro-Processing . 41 History of Pickling and Fermentation—Pickle Power—Salt— Nicholas Appert—Chinese Picklers—Scurvy—James Line— Cherokees—Thomas Jefferson—Pickles of Eco-Specific Areas—International Pickle Festival—Japanese Fermentation— Theory of ECIWO Biology—Rejuvenating Worn-Out Crops— World Hunger—Agro-Processing—Using Salvage Plants— Cyanide—Cassava—Methods of Fermentation—Kimchi—Food as Medicine—Tailor-Made Foods—Acetobacters—Yeasts—Water and Cellular Growth—Water Activity—Acidified Foods—Molds— Spore-Forming Bacteria—Homemaker Experimentation—Self- Reliance—Labeling Homemade Products—Pub Med—Life-Long Learning—Drunken Birds—Fermented Drinks—Fermented Grains—Fermented Fish Sauce—Lactic-Acid Fermentation— Acetic-Acid Fermentation—Alkaline Fermentation—Cyanide in Rowanberry Seeds—Pasteur—Sauerkraut—Brine Solutions—Pit Fermentation—Sumerian Beer—Hammurabi—Bappir 7 pcri01eFM_f.qxp 1/3/2008 8:54 AM Page 8 8 PICKLES TO RELISH Chapter 3 Relishes . 53 Definition of a Relish—Pepper Hashes—Large-Batch vs Small- Batch—Red Pepper Relish—Relish vs Jam vs Chutney—“A Kicker”—Dixie Relish—Rummage Relishes—Celeriac—He-Man Relish—Chow-Chows—India Relishes—Green Tomato Relishes— Definition of a Mango—Historical Survey of Mangoed Pickles— Roulades—Tomatoes—Husk Tomatoes—Tomatillo Relishes—Green Tomato Relishes—Bordeau Sauce—Hot Moroccan Relish— Cucumber Relishes—Hot Beekeeper’s Relish—Turmeric—Zucchini Relishes—Speckled Horse Relish—Bunny Relish—Scovillian Corn Relishes—Fruit Relish vs Chutney—Pear Relish—Pome Relishes— Mostarda di Cremona—Banana Relish—Crab Apple Relish— Brussels Sprouts Relish—Beet and Cabbage Relish—Onion Relish Chapter 4 Pickles . 85 Definition of a Pickle—Crock Pickles—Fermented Pickles—Bread and Butter Pickles—Maple Syrup in Pickles—Agave Quickles— Brown Rice Quickles—Honey Quickles—Zucchini Pickles— Mixed Squash Pickles—Pickled Chayote—Hot Jelly Quickles—Pickled Beets—Green Bean Pickles—Freezer Slaw— Guess What Pie—Mock Lemon Pie—Pickled Peppers—Pickled Brussels Sprouts—Pickled Okra—Pickled Green Tomatoes—Dill Pickles—Sweet Gherkins—Sour Pickle Chunks—24-Hour Cucumbers—Pickled Garlic Buds—Freezer Pickles— Fermentation Pickling—Plastic-Bag Pickles—Half Sours—Jar Sauerkraut—Atjar Bening—Quick Atjar—Lime Pickles—Mustard Pickles—Asparagus Pickles—Pea Pod Pickles—Broccoli Pickles— Pickled Garlic—Pickled Green Beans—Italian Beef—Pickled Cauliflower—Japanese Pickles—Kimchi—Pickled Artichokes— Pickled Eggplant—Pickled Peppers in Oil—Pickled Carrots— Pickled Mushrooms—Pickled Onions—Jardinières—Pickled Peaches—Pickled Apricots—Pickled Pears—Pickled Mangoes— Pickled Crab Apples—Pickled Melon—Pickled Watermelon Rinds—Pickled Cherries—Pickled Plums—Pickled Blueberries— Huckleberries—Blueberry Vinegar—Banana Pickle—Pickled Grapes—Pickled Citrus Fruits—Pickled Papaya—Baked Papaya— Pickled Figs—Pickled Eggs—Fiddleheads—Olives—Pickled Nuts—Pickled Green Nuts—Pickled Grape Leaves—Pickled Buds—Japanese Gari—Pickled Rat-Tail-Radish Pods Chapter 5 Chutneys and Sauces . 149 Definition of Chutney—Fresh Chutney—Bengal Chutney— Shrimp Chips—Chutney Dip—Tomato Chutneys—Pear Chutneys—Apple Chutneys—Apricot Chutneys—Crab Apple Chutneys—Key Lime Chutney—Chokoloskee Island Chutney— True Cinnamon—Cassia Buds—Sunshine Chutney—Elderberry Chutney—Nellie Melba Chutney—Raspberry Chutneys— pcri01eFM_f.qxp 1/3/2008 8:54 AM Page 9 Contents 9 Rhubarb Chutneys—Formulating Recipes—Date Chutneys— Blueberry Chutneys—Huckleberries—Bilberries—Red Gooseberry Chutney—Worcestershire Sauce—Chili Sauces—Damson Plum Chutney—Simple Plum Chutney—Banana Chutney—Guava Chutney—Cranberry Chutneys—Mincemeat Recipes—Pressure- Cookers—Snappy Tomato Juice Appendix A: Approximate pH of Foods . 183 Appendix B: Information Guide . 185 Appendix C: Annual Pickle Festivals or Events . 187 Index . 191 pcri01eFM_f.qxp 1/3/2008 8:54 AM Page 10 pcri01eFM_f.qxp 1/3/2008 8:54 AM Page 11 Foreword Pickles and relish and, indeed, the cucumbers from which many such things are made often conjure memories of picnics and cookouts. But of course over the cen- turies pickled items of all kinds have been featured at the most formal tables of roy- alty, as well as being set out as fancy side dishes for the rich and famous. Fact is, folks around the world would enjoy far poorer diets were it not for the plethora of delight- ful things produced in the age-old pursuit of pickling and fermenting. And Bev Alfeld certainly pursues the best in any culinary endeavor, not the least of which is perhaps her forte, pickling and preserving. In short, she is an expert. If readers of Pickles to Relish have enjoyed her earlier successful work, The Jamlady Cookbook, they will know that in her latest effort little of value or interest in the art of pickling has escaped the attention of Bev or the Jamlady. She thinks big; when she takes on anything, especially in the culinary field, she can be counted on to research it in depth. As extensive as the information presented in Pickles to Relish is, you will find it fully accessible to both chef and home canner. This is because Jamlady and Bev Alfeld believe canning is more than food preservation, a tenet certainly evidenced by this book; it is useful to youngsters as well as adults because it teaches application of math and history and pride in self-sufficiency. Illustrating accessibility even to neophytes is the book’s how-to for making small batches of pickles without canning—you can put them in the refrigerator or leave them out to develop at room temperature. Of special note are the more technical aspects of Pickles to Relish. Although a bit complex for novice canners, the Alfeld Notation System still alerts them to the importance of processing times and altitude considerations. There is an excellent dis- cussion of relative acidity and a pH chart in the back of the book. Few cookbooks offer so many recipes for chutneys, or such a diversity of pickle and relish recipes, from mild to wild—like pickled green walnuts to top filet mignon, pickled kumquats in champagne or pickled dilly beans and asparagus in a Bloody Mary. Ron Couch 11 pcri01eFM_f.qxp 1/3/2008 8:54 AM Page 12 pcri01eFM_f.qxp 1/3/2008 8:54 AM Page 13 Acknowledgments Thank you market patrons; Mr. Ron Couch, editor of Fruit Gardener magazine; Mr. Bill Grimes, president of the California Rare Fruit Growers Inc; Mr. George Vicory; Mr. Bob Aicher; Mr. Joe Watson; Ms. Barbara Davies; the Crystal Lake Public Library staff; Mr. and Mrs. Bill Brooks of the International Pickle Festival; Ms. Susan Marquis; Dr. Kathleen Grambling; and Bonnie Will. Thanks to my pub- lisher, Dr. Milburn Calhoun; my editors, Nina Kooij and Heather Green; my pho- tographer, Mr. Jim Smith, and his three assistants, Ryan Basten, Justin Allen, and Jason Torres. A special thanks to my two children, Kim Alfeld and Tim Alfeld; to my mother, Doris Schoonmaker; and to my extended family and friends. Without all of you special people, Jamlady and Bev Alfeld could not thrive, teach, and influence. Finally, thank you Jamlady for allowing me to write some of this book by myself. Not everyone appreciates you all the time, but I do. For those who don’t believe in Tinker Bell, Jamlady is hard to explain. Jamlady, like Betty Crocker, is the ideal cook and canner, although Bev Alfeld influences Jamlady and visa versa. Bev Alfeld hears Jamlady’s little voice above her shoulder when she cooks. Maybe you have a little voice that talks to you, but perhaps your Tinker Bell does not know how to cook and talk. Jamlady does. 13 pcri01eFM_f.qxp 1/3/2008 8:54 AM Page 14 Three jars of jardinière. pcri01eFM_f.qxp 1/3/2008 8:54 AM Page 15 Introduction Pickles to Relish provides information on food preservation for the homemaker, canner, gardener, professional chef, food scientist, doctor, artist, pick- ler, chemist, farmer, nurse, nutritionist, food historian, anthropologist, ethnobotanist, backyard-grill master, and anyone else who is interested in condiments, cooking, self-sufficiency, food history, education, art, new experi- ences, and healthful food.

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