From Parma …
… to the sea on foot
Hiking guide for slow walkers by Roberto Cavanna This guide has the pourpose to describe the possible routes that make one to reach, by foot, the Riviera di Levante, leaving from Parma or, alterna vely, from other places of the province. Theore cally, the possible routes are infini ve, but, as they all request more days of hiking, those which generally offer more possibili es for accomoda ons were selected, while on this part of the Appennino are rather rare. For this reason, for example, the Via del Sale has not been described: it passes from Langhirano and arrives to Aulla crossing the Pass of Lagastrello. I hope that in the future I will be able to add this path, together with others, whenever the condi ons for accomoda ons will be improved. The most interes ng aspect of these treks is the climb over of the Apennine ridge. A er a short stretch in the lowland, the climb begins gently on the first hilly area between vineyards and cul vated fields. Soon, as you climb and move away from the plain, the forest begins to take over, increasingly intertwining with the rare fields that are now used only for hay harves ng. When you reach the ridge you will find a very wild context where the human presence is very sporadic and in some parts completely absent. If you follow the Via Francigena you will be immersed in the history witnessed by the beau ful and ancient villages of Lunigiana and the archaeological remains of Luni. If you choose the other des na ons you will walk along a long ridge where nature is the absolute master and when you start the descent towards the sea, you will see a landscape that changes quickly: you leave the vast forests of oaks, beeches and firs and you cross ancient abandoned pastures that are slowly engulfed by the Mediterranean thicket. The scents and aromas of the Mediterranean become more intense un l finally, you can immerse your feet, now exhausted, in the water of the sea. The different paths to reach the sea (the yellow indicates the Via Francigena path, the red the Sen ero d’Italia, while the blue indicates the paths without signal). The yellow spots indicate the stop points where it is possible to find accomoda on and a dinner, and point of arrival and starts. There are two chines of these paths: the Via Francigena (in yellow), that allows you to get to the Cisa Pass and then to descend in Lunigiana, un l you reach the ancient Luni a few steps from the sea; and the Sen ero Italia (in red) that, from the Cisa Pass, follows the Apennine ridge up to the Bocco Pass from where it is possible to descend to different places on the Riviera di Levante (Monterosso, Levanto, Bonassola, Framura, Moneglia and Sestri Levante) When to leave. The best season is spring: the temperatures are mild and there are abundant hours of light. Even autumn is a great me with the landscape enriched by its colors. During the summer, high temperatures at low and medium al tude can be quite annoying. Winter, in the absence of snow (which unfortunately becomes increasingly rare year a er year), can be a good period for this trek, but presents the drawback of the closure of several recep on facili es
A glance on Sporzana Valley How to face the crossing Given that it is always possible to split the whole route throughout the year in short sec ons of two or three days, in the paragraphs that follow I want to give you some useful ps to experience it en rely without problems. No athle c skills are required to complete the trek. It is instead necessary to be prepared from a physical and mental point of view.
Physical training Since some stages are necessarily long, due to the scarcity of recep on facili es, it is necessary to get used to long walks to gradually get over distances of thirty kilometers and differences in height around a thousand meters. The best thing to do is to spend the weekend walking on our mountains be er if done in the area of the route: this will allow you to deepen the knowledge of the territory that you will have to cross.
A glance on the Taro valley at sunset from Casola How to orientate There is a detailed cartography on the internet that you can find on h ps://www.wanderreitkarte.de or alterna vely on h ps://www.opencyclemap.org/ , but it is not easy to navigate the land using only these maps. Along the Via Francigena and the Sen ero Italia the route is quite well marked and with li le a en on you should arrive at your des na on without any par cular problem.
Outward of these well-known routes the signals are prac cally non-existent and a satellite navigator becomes very useful, which you can use following the GPS traces that I published on my website at this link: h p://www.cadadello.it/ParmaMare/ParmaMare.htm. If you do not have a special navigator you can use your smartphone by installing a satellite naviga on app and directly downloading the route that interests you. I also recommend, before departure, to download the GPS tracks in KML format that can be opened with Google Earth; in this way you can analyze them comfortably on your home computer and have a quite precise idea of the difficul es you will encounter. Before leaving You should study the route carefully. Then get the maps of the route and look on the Internet all that can be useful to know about the difficul es of the route. If you have a navigator, get the GPS tracks and analyze them carefully with Google Earth. Then try to iden fy all the possible stopping places to dine and spend the night. All this will allow you to plan the routes in order to adapt their length to your needs. Before departure, check availability of accommoda on facili es and this, in addi on to avoid the risk of spending the night outdoors, will allow you to evaluate the opportunity to weight or not your backpack with sleeping bag, ma ress and tent. The backpack must be prepared with maximum care, trying to make it, on one hand, as light as possible and, on the other, to fill it with everything and only the indispensable.
A glaze on the Baganz valley from the top of Mount Croce, thereabout Casola During the journey When you are on the move, the keyword is "slowness". In summer the hours of light range from five in the morning un l almost ten in the evening: you have more than sixteen hours of light at your disposal. Walking at a speed of two or three kilometers an hour, you can travel more than thirty kilometers in ten or twelve hours. It is useless, therefore, to be in a hurry to get to the shelter, it would only serve to bore you while wai ng for dinner. Try to get to the right place in me to take a shower and sit down for dinner.
Never force the gait: if you feel that during a climb the pulse of the heart is increasing or that you are coming out of breath, you should stop to admire the wonders that are around you: landscapes, woods, flowers and ancient villages will not fail to amaze you.
Stop now and then to listen to the silence: it will have many things to say to you.
Do not pay any a en on to your traveling companions who are urging you to increase your pace so much: sooner or later, they will have to stop and wait for you. You must never live the journey as a compe on with fellow travelers or with yourself but as a moment of knowledge and discovery of the places you are going through.
Try to drink plenty of water and keep your water bo le full while refueling at each fountain. Before leaving, be informed about the availability of water along the route that, in many places, is rather lacking. At the end of the day When you arrive at the hostel and sit down at the table for dinner, be sa ated but do not gorge yourself, limit the use of alcohol, prefer beer to wine, eat slowly chewing for a long me: all this will facilitate diges on and a good diges on reconcile a deep sleep and, therefore, a good rest. It is necessary to try not to accumulate fa gue by alterna ng it with an adequate rest. Try to take care of your appearance too, and then shave and comb your hair regularly: a good look exorcises fa gue. The next morning, have an abundant breakfast, and for lunch, se le for a sandwich and some fruit.
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Terenzo How to choose the route
This graphic indicates, with black dots, the points of departure, arrival and milestones; in red the kilometers that separate two neighboring points are indicated. In this way you can easily calculate the distance of the route you want to take and evaluate the difficulty. It is, therefore, evident that you can iden fy different routes to reach the sea; the en re route from Parma to the sea requires from five to seven days, depending on the des na on. If you do not have all this me available, you can split the en re route in more than two or three days to travel over several weekends sca ered throughout the year. So, for example, if you leave from Bocco Pass you can reach the Riviera di Levante in a couple of days, staying overnight in Velva, and if you leave Borgo Val di Taro you will arrive in Monterosso in three days.
From the top of Mount Za a a glaze toward the coast. On background the Tigullo Gulf from Chiavari to Portofino. To be er describe the various routes I divided the en re territory into four areas: •The different routes that depart from Parma and allow you to reach the Via Francigena in Sivizzano or Casola. •The ridge of the Via Francigena from Fidenza to Luni. •The dorsal of the Apennine ridge that from Cisa Pass reaches the Bocco Pass along the Sen ero Italia. •The descent to the sea star ng from the Bocco Pass and the Pass of the Two Saints.
Casola Castle along the Via Francigena From Parma to Casola and Sivizzano
From Parma it is possible to reach the Via Francigena in Casola or Sivizzano through beau ful i neraries that run through the hills that are located on the two banks of the Baganza stream. If you want you can reach the Francigena also in Fornovo but the routes are less interes ng and a bit tortuous. The plain is most of the me ignored in the hiking trails because it is flat and not very a rac ve but it is not always the case. Some mes even the plain allows you to take beau ful walks offering sugges ve scenery. From Parma you reach the hill at Felino or, alterna vely, at Sala Baganza. From Felino you can reach Calestano along the ridge that divides the Baganza Valley from the Parma Valley. From Sala you can reach Sivizzano or Calestano directly along the ridge with the Sporzana Valley; the most trained walker can reach Casola or Cassio directly star ng from Sala Baganza without stopping in Calestano. From Calestano, going up the slopes of Mount Croce, you reach the Via Francigena in Casola. In the pages that follow you will see the details of these routes. From Parma to Felino and Sala Baganza Distance 18 km. GPSTrace : A010_Parma-Felino.gpx It is not easy to find a route far from traffic and asphalt. I would have preferred an i nerary that skirted the Baganza stream but unfortunately, apart from a short ini al stretch, it is no longer possible to find accesses and you can clash with rather invasive ac vi es like the Casale quarry and the carelessness of those who consider the torrent as a convenient dump. So I found a route that, following the cycle path that leads from the city center to University Campus con nues to Gaione. Once in Gaione you con nue along carriageways and li le roads not very frequented up to Carignano from where the path branches off into two sec ons that lead to Felino and Sala Baganza, respec vely. Although a good stretch of this route is on asphalt, the traffic is very limited and occasional and will not cause any discomfort; on the other hand you will not have to trudge along steep slopes. There are no shortage of interest such as the Romanesque Church and Villa Paganini in Gaione, Villa Malenchini in Carignano.
The Church of Gaione Villa Paganini Villa Malenchini
Images of the plain between Parma and Felino
Upward the Baganza river in Sala, below the Rocca Sanvitale in Sala Baganza. From Felino to Calestano Distance 23 km. GPS Trace : A030_Felino-Ramiano-Calestano.gpx, A040_Felino-Sporno-Calestano.gpx. From Felino the route climbs gently up the hills. In the first stretch, up to Case Manfredelli, it is not possible to find paths or driveways, if not for short distances, and then you will follow a paved road that runs along the crest of a hill that wedges towards Mount Sporno. However, the traffic is very poor and the view is quite a rac ve. From Case Manfredelli the asphalt is finally abandoned and you can con nue on carriageways and paths while the context becomes wilder: the agricultural ac vi es are much more fragmentary and the woods more and more dominant. You con nue for a few kilometers along the ridge that divides the Baganza valley from the Parma valley to the height of Vallerano (which you can see below). From there you can decide to reach Calestano passing through the peak of Mount Sporno (1,058 m.) or, alterna vely, following a path that runs along the coast crossing the villages of Ramiano and Borsano. The two paths have the same length and the same difference in height since the second, although being lower, has several ups and downs.
Walking along the ridge a gaze toward the Val Baganza: at right the Mount Sporno and at the center the village of Vallerano. In Calestano it is possible to stay at the Mantovani Hotel (0525 52118) and the Fontana Hotel (0525 52155). Both are located in the center of the village at the beginning of the old village. Friendliness and a familiar environment are the characteris cs of both.
Mantovani Hotel Fontana Hotel
Elevation graph of the route that goes from Felino to Calestano passing through the village of Ramiano halfway up the Mount Sporno.
Elevation graph of the route from Felino to Calestano passing by the summit of Mount Sporno. Images collected along the route from Felino to Calestano. On the left, the village of Sant Ilario Baganza. Above, the castle of Felino emerges from the mist at sunset, below is a glare from the ridge towards Baganza valley. Above Mount Sporno; below at left the Pieve di Valle and to . the right that of Iano From Sala Baganza to Calestano and Sivizzano To Sivizzano 15 km, GPS trace : A060_SalaBaganza-Sivizzano.gpx. To Calestano 20 Km, GPS trace : A050_SalaBaganza-Calestano.gpx From Sala, you go along the Via Figlie della Croce up to the tavern Il Bello where the road that leads to Castellaro begins on the right. You con nue on the asphalt for a couple of kilometers, climbing gently along the ridge that separates the Baganza valley from the Sporzana valley. You con nue along some beau ful carriage roads that offer a wonderful panoramic view of the valleys below. At about ten kilometers from Sala you will find a crossroads that, on the right, leads to Selva Smeralda from where you con nue going down by carriageways in the middle of the fields up to a paved road that will take you to Sivizzano. If, instead, your des na on is Calestano, con nue along the ridge for about a kilometer and then leave the short stretch of paved road that you have just met to immerse yourself in a dense forest along a path that runs halfway along the slopes of Mount Bosso. At the exit of the wood, go up on the ridge near Ca ’Riposo from where you will con nue un l you reach the top of Mount Groppo (710 m) and then begin the descent that will take you to Calestano.
The ridge between Baganza valley and Sporzana valley
Eleva on graph of the route from Sala Baganza to Calestano
Eleva on graph route from Sala Baganza to Sivizzano A vineyard near the Castellaro and on the right the Farnese aqueduct of the Nave; below a stretch of ridge Boriano Tower. Above Sivizzano on the slopes of the Prinzera mountain. Below Sivizzano village and the court of the hostel. Calestano and surroundings From Sala Baganza to Casola and Cassio Distances: Casola 27,5 km, Cassio 32,5 km. GPS Trace: A070_SalaBaganza-Cassio.gpx
If you are well trained and do not want to stop in Calestano, you can head, star ng from Sala Baganza, directly to Casola or Cassio. It is a very demanding route but within reach of those who are used to walk. A er star ng the descent from Mount Groppo, instead of going down to Calestano, turn le to cross the charming village of Lesignano di Palmia. As soon as you leave the village, take a short stretch on the provincial road that connects Calestano with Fornovo to the intersec on for Terenzo. Con nue for a li le over a kilometer in the direc on of Terenzo and shortly a er the village of Goiano turn le into a cart road that climbs the slopes of Mount Croce un l it meets the paths that will lead you to Puilio and Lughero di Casola. There you will find the Via Francigena, which will lead you to the Cassio hostel. Below the eleva on chart. The map of the variant that allows you to reach the Via Francigena in Casola star ng directly from Sala Baganza in the stretch that goes from Mount Groppo to Casola. The missing sec ons of the en re stage can be found in the maps from Sala Baganza to Calestano and from Fornovo to Cassio Images collected in the stretch of the ridge that separate the Baganza valley from the Sporzana valley at the height of Calestano. Below at right the village of Lesignano di Palmia. Da Calestano a Casola Passing by the summit of M. Croce 7 km; GPS trace: A090_Calestano-Croce-Casola.gpx Passing further down the hillside to Puilio e Lughero 8 km; GPS trace: A080_Calestano-Croce-Casola.gpx
From Calestano it is possible to reach Casola on the Via Francigena along the Mount Croce on the hillside or, alterna vely, reach the summit to go down to Casola a er a short descent. The first path is so er, the second has a greater slope; both offer beau ful scenery in a wild and unspoiled environment. The track is devoid of any signage so if you do not know the territory you have to rely on the GPS track to find the right way.
Elevation graph of the stretch from Calestano to Casola passing through the top of Mount Croce.
Eleva on graph of the stretch from Calestano to Casola passing along the slopes of Mount Croce. This route crosses the South side of the M. Croce which is one of the wildest and most incontaminated places of the Parma province. Walking along the paths between Calestano and Casola A glaze on the Baganza valley from the slopes and the summit of Mount Croce . The dorsal of the Via Francigena The Via Francigena has become the main Italian route that year a er year sees pilgrims coming from all over the world traveling through it. For this stretch, from Fidenza to Luni, this guide will not only give you a few essen al informa on as you can find everything you need (maps, GPS tracks, recep on points, etc.) on its official website: h ps://www.viefrancigene.org/it/ . If it is your inten on to take this stretch in the winter months I suggest, of course, to check that the facili es in which you intend to stay are open.
A stretch of the Via Francigena between Cassio and Berceto. When the sea wind blows, a thick cloud cover stands on the Apennine ridge This route is not only interes ng from a landscape and naturalis c point of view due to the beauty of the places it crosses, but it is above all from a historical point of view. The current Via Francigena has always been, since immemorial mes, an important transit route between what was once called Gallia Cisalpina (today's Po Valley) and central Italy. In par cular, there was a connec on between the Roman colony of Parma (183 BC) and the port of Luni (177 BC) both founded by Marco Emilio Lepido. From Luni you could con nue along the ancient Via Aurelia, passing through Lucca and Pisa, up to Rome. The excava ons carried out recently on the Sella del Valoria (near the Cisa) by the archaeologist Angelo Ghire - following the reports by Jean Louis Canale - have shown that the crossing of the ridge along this communica on route on the Apennines took place at that point, thanks to the discovery of numerous objects and coins. But why have so many coins been found right on the Valoria pass? In ancient mes, travel was extremely ring and risky, so that when travelers reached an important pass they le offers to thank the gods and propi ate their favors. On the pass there was a small wooden shrine with sacred effigies and small holes were dug nearby where the offers were le . Probably it was also a point of rest a er the strenuous climb and, inevitably, when one stops for a break, always forgets some object exactly as it happens to us. For this reason, in addi on to the coins, many other objects have been found such as rings, studs, daggers, arrows, nails, mosaic les, etc. Above left, the reconstruction of the Sella del Valoria where there was a small newstand and a traveler intent on making an offer. On the right, the bronze statuette of Hercules in assault. Below a buckle, some arrows and an ax. To learn more about this fascinating topic I suggest reading the text "Discovering Roman Cisa" by Angelo Ghiretti (Grafiche Step editrice - Parma) In the Republican period (II and I century BC), the passage of the pass took place on the Sella del Valoria because, then, the route manager ran right along the ridge lines to avoid landslides and erosions and, above all, the incisions of the water courses that would have required the realiza on of numerous bridges and fords; in other words it was easier and less expensive to walk along the ridges than the valley floors. Recent geomorphological studies have shown that, since the beginning of the 1st century AD, a series of landslides on the Lunigiana side -most probably caused by deforesta on and excessive exploita on of the soil- interrupted the passage on Valoria which was moved further down to the current Passo della Cisa also by virtue of an Empire which in its maximum period splendour had sufficient resources to achieve and maintain a more expensive passage. Beginning from the end of the third century AD and up un l the 6th century AD, at a me when the Empire was plagued by barbarian invasions and financial crises, the passages on the Sella del Valoria started again, witnessed by the coins of that period le as offers. These rites ceased with the spread of Chris anity as they were considered pagan and therefore forbidden customs: but certainly the Valoria con nued to be frequented even in the centuries to come, in par cular by the Lombards for whom that route was the main access route to Tuscany. No coincidence that the Lombard king Liutprando founded the monastery of "Bercetum" in 712.
So the stretch of today's Via Francigena that from Fornovo reaches the Sella del Valoria - passing through Sivizzano, Bardone, Terenzo, Casola, Cassio, Castellonchio and Berceto - follows ancient paths traveled from immemorial mes bringing us not only among the beau es of our mountains but also between the charm of history. A er crossing Valoria the journey through history will con nue through the beau ful medieval villages of Lunigiana. Once in Pontremoli do not miss the opportunity to visit the stele museum which is located in the castle and which will take you into the prehistoric Lunigiana. From Fidenza to Fornovo Distance 34 km. GPS Track : F010_Fidenza-Fornovo.gpx
A very long route that, crossing the first hills overlooking the plain, offers sweet and pleasant landscapes. The i nerary, apart from a few very short sec ons on provincial roads, runs along pleasant li le roads that cross the countryside crossing the gentle slopes that are a prelude to the Apennines, which are almost upon us. If the route seems too long you can shorten it by stopping in Medesano.
Walking from Fidenza to Fornovo Da Fornovo a Cassio Distance 21 km. GPS Track: F020_Fornovo-Cassio.gpx You go up the hill behind Fornovo to avoid the stretch along the state road. A er about three and a half kilometers you go down to Respiccio and con nue along the provincial road No. 39 to Sivizzano where the hostel is located in an ancient Benedic ne monastery next to the church. Shortly a er Sivizzano the climb begins to reach Bardone with its beau ful Romanesque church and just beyond Terenzo, from where, finally, the path leaves the asphalt to end the climb to Casola and con nue along a beau ful path up to Cassio. The first 15 kilometers cover the whole Sporzana valley, which offers a very gentle and relaxing landscape among hills covered with cul vated fields alterna ng with woods. From Casola the landscape becomes harsher while maintaining a wild beauty and the route runs along ancient mule tracks immersed in the thick of the woods. It is a real pity that the first 15-kilometer stretch of the Via Francigena is all on the asphalt and that no effort has been made to find an alterna ve route away from the car traffic simply by opening a route that passes the edges of the Sporzana stream. There are only two refreshment points between Fornovo and Cassio: a bar-restaurant in Sivizzano and another in Casola (tra oria Ca ani) which also has a couple of rooms to spend the night.
Above Bardone and below Sporzana valley Above Terenzo, below at le Casola Castello and at right Villa Casola A magical glaze onTaro valley from Casola at sunset Cassio From Cassio to Berceto and at the Cisa Ostello Distance 19 km. GPS track: F030_Cassio-PassoCisa.gpx
This route runs all along the ridge that separates the Baganza valley from the Taro valley. The first, just over four kilometers, is con guous to the Cisa na onal road due to the lack of possible alterna ves but, fortunately, the traffic is very limited on weekdays; pay close a en on on holidays as the road turns into a track for reckless motorcyclists. In the locality of Cavazzola the route follows ancient carriage roads that will lead you to the beau ful village of Castellonchio. Con nue along ridge paths that offer stunning views of the Apennines up to Berceto. If you wish to take you a li le further to shorten the route on the following day (a solu on that I recommend), you can con nue for about seven kilometers to the Cisa Hostel which is a couple of kilometers before the homonymous pass.
Eleva on graph of the route: from Cassio to Berceto there are 11 km, from Berceto to the Cisa Hostel there are 8 Km.
A glaze towards Val Taro Along the path between Cassio and Berceto From Cisa Hostel to Pontremoli Distance 23 km. GPS track: F040_PassoCisa-Pontremoli.gpx This is a rather long and demanding route, although mostly downhill but marked by various ups and downs. You will soon reach the Cisa pass from where the long descent towards Pontremoli begins. The route is very beau ful and evoca ve with wonderful panoramas that range from the Apennine ridge across the Lunigiana. Going down you cross several small villages along the ancient mule tracks with stone bridges and the characteris c pavement. Pontremoli will not fail to amaze you with its castle and its alleys full of history and beauty.
Above the eleva on graph of the route from the Cisa Hostel to Pontremoli; below a glaze on the Lunigiana. Images from the Cisa Pass to Pontremoli From Pontremoli to Aulla Distance 32 km. GPS track: F050_Pontremoli-Aulla.gpx
Very long route but almost en rely flat with slight gradients that crosses the whole Lunigiana passing through its beau ful villages: Fila era, File o, Virgole a, etc. Although it is a very populated area, the route runs largely along the ancient roads that once connected these villages and were intelligently recovered from abandonment to the delight of pilgrims.
Eleva on graph of the route from Pontremoli to Aulla: 32 km.
In the picture above you see the village of Virgole a; in the following page, above at le the Church of Sorano and at right Virgole a; below at le an old bridge on the historical path of the Via Francigena; at right, File o.
From Aulla to Sarzana and Luni Distance from Aulla to Sarzana 16 km and from Sarzana to Luni 16 km. GPS track: F060_Aulla-Sarzana-Luni- Aversa.gpx From Aulla you take a path that goes up the mountain offering beau ful views of the whole Lunigiana and the Apuan Alps. You will meet up small villages of great charm to reach Sarzana, a small city full of history and beauty. A er Sarzana the route is almost all on a paved road that crosses an infinite suburb made up of anonymous houses and that extends throughout the Versilia covering everywhere between the Apuan Alps and the sea. There are no points of interest except for, of course, the archaeological site of Luni with its amphitheater that represents the ideal des na on for the journey. From Luni the nearest train sta on is Aversa.
Walking towards Sarzana, a glaze on Aulla and Lunigiana
Eleva on graph from Aulla to Luni. Sarzana is precisely at half way. In the picture below, Castelnuovo Magra Walking from Aulla to Sarzana: above, in the background, the Alpi Apuane, below at le Bibola village; at right Ponzano Superiore. Above at le , the Fortress of Sarzana and at right the Alpi Apuane, wounded and devastated by the marble extrac on. At right the city of Luni as it probably appeared in Roman period. Appennine ridge from Cisa Pass to Bocco Pass To reach the Riviera di Levante (from the Cinque Terre to Sestri Levante) it is necessary to travel along this stretch of the ridge, along which there are points from which the roads branch off, leading down to the sea. The en re Apennine ridge is crossed by the Sen ero Italia, marked with the symbol 00, which in this sec on coincides with the final part of the Great Apennine Excursion (GEA) from the Cisa Pass to the Passs of the Two Saints and to the Alta Via dei Mon Liguri ( AV) from the Foce dei Tre Confini to the Bocco Pass. Along these stretches, therefore, you will find the CAI signage that will also refer to these i neraries. The trail crosses a very beau ful and wild area of our mountains, teetering among the ridge crests between endless broad-leaved forests interspersed with conifer woods and rare pastures, offering stunning panoramas on one side, Lunigiana and Vara valley, and, from the other on the Taro valley. Although the track does not present par cular excursion difficul es, it is very demanding from a logis c point of view due to the scarcity of refreshment points along all its 70 km. If it is not your inten on to tackle this stretch by carrying the heavy burden of the tent and foodstuffs, I will try to give you direc ons to reach the refreshment points and overnight stays closest to the path. A couple of kilometers before the Cisa Pass, along the state road of the same name, is the Tugo Hostel (347 4197674 - 328 8741814) built in an ancient Roadman's House. Open from April to October, it offers at a modest price a cot, shower and pilgrim's dinner in a sober but welcoming environment in the style of pilgrim hospitality along the Via Francigena. A er about 11 kilometers of walking from the Cisa Pass you will arrive at the Bra ello Pass where there is a tavern (0525 96658). In a simple and cordial environment, it is possible to taste the special es of the place and, in par cular, the mushrooms; but I suggest you to not weigh yourself down because there are s ll so many kilometers to go. If you are with a tent, this is perhaps the ideal place to pitch it and enjoy a great dinner. At the Pass of the Two Saints, the first stop, a ski resort has been built which is almost always closed due to lack of snow where the Gran Baita Hostel (0187 449550) is located, which however, in fact, is always closed. Fortunately, at Zeri, about seven kilometers from the pass, the Albergo la Ca nella is where Stefano, its manager, is available to pick you up with the car at the pass and bring you back the next day. It is, there, a sober but welcoming environment, rooms with bathroom and tradi onal cuisine of excellent quality. Telephones: 339 8266704 - 0187 447125; email: albergolaca [email protected]. The next stop takes you to the Cento Croci Pass. Unfortunately the Camillo Ranch that offered hospitality un l 2015 closed up but fortunately, just before the pass, about a kilometer from the path on the Ligurian side, there is the B&B Ca 'Nova (Renato 339 5342390; Lucia 333 2827977) open from April to October and where you can spend the night enjoying an excellent dinner. On the site www.bbcanova.it you will find all the necessary informa on. The next day, at the Bocco Pass, you will find the refuge of the same name (0185 342065), closed during the winter months, which offers comfortable accommoda on and tradi onal cuisine. On the website www.rifugiodelbocco.it you will find all the necessary informa on. The Bocco Pass is connected to Chiavari and Bedonia with a couple of daily bus drives in case it is necessary to interrupt or resume trekking at this point. From the Bocco Pass, the descent begins towards all the towns of the Riviera di Levante from Porto Venere to Sestri Levante. The second access route to the sea considered by this guide is the one that, leaving the ridge a er just over three kilometers from the Pass of the Two Saints, arrives in Monterosso, stopping at Bergugliara and Bergassana. Obviously, you can find many other ways to the sea but those that I have indicated in this guide seemed to me the most interes ng from a landscape and hiking point of view. From Cisa Pass to Pass of the Two Saints Distance 23 km. GPS track: L010_PassoCisa-PassoDueSan .gpx
To the 23 km that separate the two Passes we must add those that separate the Cisa Pass from the Tugo Hostel (3 or 6, depending on the route). It is therefore a very demanding route not only because of the long distance but also because of the con nuous ups and downs. From 1,100 m. of the Cisa Pass you climb to 1,500 of the Molina co mountain from where the descent leading to the Bra ello Pass begins (900 m.). Con nue for a few kilometers on a stretch almost flat to catch the climb that will take you to 1,500 m. of the Pass of the Two Saints.
The beau ful forest that covers the slopes of the Mount Molina co from Cisa Pass to Bra ello Pass From Bra ello Pass to the Pass of the Two Saints. Above the eleva on graph of the route; in the photo below, the Mount Orsaro in the background. Above a glaze on the Lunigiana; at le the Mount Orsaro Above at le a wanderful spring blossoming, at right one of the many boundary stone that was separa ng the Lunigiana from the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza. Below at right, the old village of Zeri. From the Pass of the Two Saints to the Cento Croci Pass Distance 20 km. GPS track: L020_PassoDueSan -PassoCentoCroci.gpx
This is a li le quieter route than the previous one that runs through the stupendous beech forests of the ridge. Once at the Foce dei Tre Confini, the path con nues almost flat on the hillside of Mount Go ero. If you s ll have enough energy in your body and if the weather condi ons are favorable, I advise you to divert the route and go up to the summit of the Mount Go ero, that will offer you wonderful panoramas of all the surrounding valleys. Beyond Mount Go ero, the path leaves the wood and crosses the ridge pastures. If you have decided to stay at the B&B Ca ’Nova, a couple of kilometers before the Cento Croci Pass, you have to take a small road on the le that takes you to the B&B about 800 meters away.
A glaze towards the Lunigianana
Eleva on graph from the Pass of the Two Saints to the Cento Croci Pass; below, the Lunigiana.
From Cento Croci Pass to the Bocco Pass Distance 20 km. GPS track: L030_PassoCentoCroci-PassoBocco.gpx
The route runs along the ridge that divides the upper Taro valley from the Vara valley in a context where pastures prevail over the forest. The al tude sway between 850 and 1,200 meters so the gradients are not par cularly challenging and are reduced to several ups and downs. In this guide, I suggest to reach the Bocco Pass along the last four kilometers on the provincial road No. 49 to avoid the rather demanding ascent on Mount Za a while, the next day, you will ascend again on the Za a to reach the path that descends to the sea. Obviously, if “your ba eries are s ll charged”, nothing will prevent you from reaching the Bocco Pass strictly following the Alta Via trail.
Above the eleva on graph of the route from the Cento Croci Pass to the Bocco Pass; below, the Vara valley The ridge that divides the High Taro Valley from the Vara valley The descent towards the seaLa discesa verso il mare The Apennine territory is crossed by innumerable paths; therefore, the ways that can lead to the sea are equally innumerable. Thus, the problem is to find i neraries that are as interes ng as possible from a hiking and landscape point of view. It is enough to look at the map to understand that the 60 km Apennine ridge that runs almost parallel to the coast from the Pass of the Two Saints to the Bocco Pass is separated by the mountains that lie close to the sea from the Vara Valley. For this reason the most interes ng i nerary, albeit longer, is the one that allows you to circumnavigate the en re Vara Valley, remaining as close as possible to the ridges and then descending, near the sea, into one of the many chosen loca ons. In this way the landscapes and the beau es that the paths that you will follow will offer you, will never cease to amaze you. From the Bocco Pass it is possible to descend to Sestri Levante in a single day, while for all the other towns on the Riviera it is necessary to stop in Velva to reach the chosen loca on the next day. An alterna ve and more direct route (if desired, it can also be started in Borgotaro) is the one that leaves the Apennine ridge a few kilometers a er the Pass of the Two Saints to stop at Bergugliara, near Zeri. From there, going along a coast, you go down to the Vara stream near Bergassana to go up the Cinque Terre mountains, above Monterosso. I excluded the last stretch of the Alta Via dei Mon Liguri that from the Foce dei Tre Confini (on the slopes of Mount Go ero) goes down to Ceparana near Santo Stefano Magra. Then, going over the hills that are on the other side of the river, you come to La Spezia. However, the idea of reaching the sea through an industrial area and the outskirts of a large city has never thrilled me. I will describe these steps in detail in the following pages.
Montare o close to the sea between Bonassola and Framura The Framura cliff , seen from the Salto della Lepre of Bonassola From Bocco Pass to Sestri Levante Distance 35 km. GPS track: M010_PassoBocco-SestriLevante.gpx Extremely long route without the possibility of spli ng it up as it crosses an area without any inhabited center. Crossing a beau ful beech-wood you climb up to the top of Mount Za a (1,404 m.) from where the long descent that leads up to Sestri begins. You cross a rather barren area where pastures over the woods prevail. Once at the Bocco di Bargone Pass, turn right and con nue along a narrow road that gently descends to the valley floor. The path ends near the motorway exit and a er just over two kilometers you can put your feet in the sea of the beau ful Silenzio bay.
Before reaching the top of Mount Za a you already can glaze at the sea, if there is no mist.
Above the eleva on graph of the route from Bocco Pass to Sestri Levante; below the south side of Mount Za a At le the Rifugio Antonio Devoto at the Bocco Pass; below a glaze from the mount Za a top . At right there are the wonderful beech-woods on the North side of Mount Za a. Collected images during th e downhill from Mount Za a Downhill to Sestri Levante, below the Baia del Silenzio. From Bocco Pass to Velva Distance 27 km. GPS track: M020_PassoBocco-Velva.gpx
The Sanctuary of Nostra Signora della Guardia, just above the village of Velva, is a strategic point that permits to reach in just one day any town on the Riviera di Levante from Monterosso to Moneglia; but to reach this loca on star ng from the Bocco Pass, it is necessary to face a route quite challenging. From the Rifugio del Bocco, you go up the northern slope of Mount Za a in the shade of the beau ful beech woods that cover it. Even before reaching the top, you are already in sight of the sea that will never leave you for the rest of the journey. From the top of the Za a the long descent begins that, between pastures and Mediterranean scrubland, will bring you to the Velva Sanctuary. Next to the church you will find a small hotel with rooms with bathrooms that will also offer you an excellent dinner based on tradi onal Ligurian dishes.
Eleva on graph of the route from the Bocco Pass to Velva
On the background Portofino and its headland; beyond the see you can glimpse the Riviera di Ponente. Above in the le the woods of the Mount Za a, at right the Tigullo Gulf from Chiavari to Portofino; below the top of the Za a. Walking dow the Mount Za a From Velva to Moneglia, Framura, Bonassola, Levanto, Monterosso. Distances: Moneglia 15 km, Framura and Bonassola 17 km, Levanto 20 km, Monterosso 24 km. GPS tracks: M030_Velva-Moneglia.gpx, M040_Velva-Framura.gpx, M050_Velva-Bonassola.gpx, M060_Velva-Levanto, M70_Velva- Monterosso.gpx. From the Sanctuary of Velva you have only the embarrassment of the choice to find your des na on. I excluded Deiva Marina because the place is really ugly but nothing prevents you from ge ng there too. Obviously once you arrive in any of these places, if you s ll have me and energy to spend, you can con nue along the beau ful paths that run along the coast and walk through the Cinque Terre to Porto Venere. Personally, since the toll was imposed on the paths of the Cinque Terre, I refuse to walk in those places because I firmly believe that the beauty of our territory is a common good that has no price and that no ins tu on, private or public, can claim the right to sell it as if it were any consumer item. From the Velva Sanctuary you con nue along the path for about four kilometers. If your des na on is Moneglia just before Mount San Nicolao, you can easily recognize by the huge amount of antennas that cover it. Than you take a path on the right, reaching the ridge that separates Moneglia from Deiva and from there, s ll remaining on the ridge, you go down almost to the sea crossing the path that runs along the coast and that on the right takes you to Moneglia and to the le to Deiva. If, on the other hand, your des na on is not Moneglia, con nue the descent a er Mount San Nicolao un l you reach the Aurelia road, which you take for a very short distance up to the intersec on with State Road N. 332, fortunately not very busy. Con nue than on the asphalt for just over three kilometers to take a path on the le that crosses a rather sparse wood. Going on for a couple of kilometers you will find a fork: on the le you con nue to Monterosso along the mountains that overlook Levanto; on the right, instead, you con nue to Montare o from where the path is divided in three going in the direc on of Levanto, Bonassola and/or Framura. Shortly, you will cool your feet in the sea water. From Velva to Moneglia From Velva to Framura, Bonassola, Levanto, Monterosso. Eleva on graph from Velva to Moneglia
Eleva on graph from Velva to Levanto
Very direct from Borgotaro to Monterosso If you have li le me and want to experience the thrill of climbing over the Apennines up to the Cinque Terre I suggest this trek that in just three days allows you to reach Monterosso star ng from Borgotaro, a star ng point that is easily accessible by train. From Borgotaro to Bergugliara Distance 23 km. GPS track: M080_Borgotaro-Bergugliara.gpx
This is a rather challenging route: from Borgotaro, 400 meters, you climb to the 1,500 of the Pass of the Two Saints and then descend to the 800 meters of Bergugliara. From the sta on square, you go past the stream that runs along it and take the cemetery road. You con nue, than, for a few kilometers un l you reach San Vincenzo, from where you climb up to Rovinaglia. Past Rovinaglia you enter the thick of the forest and con nue to climb up to the Pass of the Two Saints. From there you follow the ridge path for almost three kilometers un l past Mount Foce o where the descent to Bergugliara begins. In Bergugliara it is possible to stay in the hotel-restaurant Sisto Belvedere (0187 447470 - 393 8171159) but make sure, before leaving, that the structure is open. Below the eleva on graph.
Examples of rural architecture near Borgotaro
From Bergugliara to Bergassana Distance 15 km. GPS track: M090_Bergugliara-Bergassana.gpx.
Quiet and res ul route, mainly downhill. A er a slight climb, you will cross a hill that divides the Lunigiana from the Vara valley and descend along a panoramic coast to Bergassana, a small and charming Ligurian village. Several sec ons of this route are on asphalt but the traffic is prac cally absent. In Bergassana it is possible to stay at Agriturismo Tiziana (0187 891690 - [email protected]) and, as an alterna ve, the B&B Borgosano (0187 891552 -334 6142584). Unfortunately, due to the scarcity of visitors, the opening mes of these structures are rather random so always make sure they are open before departure. Alterna vely, you can con nue for a few kilometers and look for accommoda on in Carrodano that offers more accommoda on op ons. Below the eleva on graph from Bergugliara to Bergassana.
Above at le , the village of Bergassana; below at right the Zeri valley. From Bergassana to Monterosso Distance 23 km. GPS track: M100_Bergassana-Monterosso.gpx.
From Bergassana you go down through a thick wood to the Vara stream. You cross the town of Arsina to take a cart track that leads to Carrodano. For a short distance, take the provincial road to Termine. From this point the route becomes quite challenging as it is necessary to con nue along the crest of a hill covered with dense vegeta on along a path that very o en makes you lose its traces. The best way not to lose your way is to stay always on the ridge or at least in its vicinity. You con nue this way for about five kilometers, a er which, having reached the top of the hills overlooking the sea, you con nue along the li le roads that will lead you to the Sanctuary of Soviore. From there you will soon go down to Monterosso enjoying the view of the Cinque Terre. If you have more me, you can stay at the Sanctuary and con nue the next day along one of the many paths of the Cinque Terre. Be careful though: the Soviore hostel is always crowded, so you have to book well in advance. Below the eleva on graph of this route.
Above at le Levanto, at right Monterosso; below at le the Soviore monastery.