Our Hettinger .4 County Heritage :

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by ENID BERN State Library 604 E Bo ilt vard Avenue BismarcK, ND 55505-0800 Bern ,m Our Hettinger County- d

NORTH DAKOTA STATE LIBRARY BISMARCK 58501

OCT 20 1975 NORTH DAKOTA MATT I IBriARY

11 33105 66630 4301

T7[oUy 7\ortr\ Dakota, cfa?\e /? J97S Do Z/\e, 7\oriJ\ £>a£o?a State £t£>rary tist?J\ my corr\pftrr{e7\Zs Cntd 3ers\ Our Hettinger County Heritage

Cover: The scene is one of threshing on the Otto Kibbel homestead. Mr. Kibbel was the owner of the outfit, Fred Wickman tended the separator.

North Dakota Statl Ufertff Bixmarf.k NH -PAM Dedicated to the sacred memory of my parents and to all other pioneers who ventured into this region, ready to face the many hardships and to accept the challenges they knew they would encounter in establishing homes and communities out on these vast prairies. V FOREWORD

Less than 150 years ago that part of Southwestern North Dakota with which this book largely deals was described and illustrated by most mapmakers as "The Great American Desert". From that point in time to the first of the present century this area was inhabitated for the most part by nomadic Indians and white trappers, ranchers, and a very few homesteaders, or "squatters". Shortly after the turn of the century an increasing number of people came to this area to pick choice sites of free land for homesteading. After the completion of the railroads into the area, the influx of the people became so great that in a few years homesteaders oc­ cupied homestead lumber shacks or sod houses on almost all quarter sections of land suitable for farming or grazing in the area. This book deals largely with the experiences and the trials and tribulations of those early settlers and homesteaders in the time- cycles that recorded both want and plenty. Miss Enid Bern, the author of this book, is eminently qualified, by experience and ability, to write about the events and conditions of the homestead days to the present and about the people who transformed this section of Southwestern North Dakota from a segment of "The Great American Desert" of the mapmakers of 150 years ago to the prosperous area it is today with hard-surfaced roads, modern towns, fine churches, excellent schools, and many other assets that make it a fine place in which to live. I congratulate Miss Enid Bern on the excellence of her book and, as a newspaper publisher in Southwestern North Dakota for more than the past 46 years, heartily recommend it to all former and present residents of the area, as well as to all others who are in­ terested in the old homestead days or the people who had a part in them.

D.J.Shults A resident of Mott, N D, for many years and now a resident of Hettinger, N.D. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Our Hettinger County Heritage is by no means fully com­ prehensive or complete in its scope. For the most part, it covers briefly the early history of the county and continues on through the homestead period, which ended primarily in 1912. The text of the book is based on information which I have more or less absorbed in early years, and on general knowledge both of which were strengthened, confirmed, and considerably increased by limited research. An amount of information worthy of much mention was acquired from the State Historical Society of North Dakota, and from old books. Specifically, we are indebted to the State Historical Society of North Dakota for making available sources of information from the Federal Writers' Projects of Works Progress Ad­ ministration of North Dakota, collections, old newspaper files, microfilm, as well as several pictures, and for permission to reprint "The Enchanted Years on the Prairies" complete with pictures and captions previously published in North Dakota History Fall 1973 (40:4). We appreciate, also, the suggestions, aid and encouragement from various department heads of the State Historical Society. The following newspapers and magazines used as sources of information include: The Adams County Record, The Ben- tley Bulletin, The Bismarck Tribune, The Burt , The Dickinson Press, The Pioneer, The Mott Pioneer Press, The Mott Spotlight, and North Dakota Magazine. Books include: Black - Trail of the Long Horn Steers, Crawford - History of North Dakota Vol. I, Drayton - Dakota Days, Willard - Story of the Prairies, Wishek - Along the Trails of Yesterday, and North Dakota Blue Book -1911. Special thanks are extended to: Father Louis Pfaller O.S.B. for permission to use information from Father De Smet in North Dakota. The State Water Commission for use of land survey maps. Mrs. Agnes Hoiby for the 1608 roster of school pupils and for material from school records. The Dakota Farmer and Mrs. Henry Svihovec for permission to use the story by John Kolkema. The Hettinger County Historical Society for the use of pic­ tures. The friends who contributed personal stories and pictures. And finally, we are grateful to D. J. Shutls, Ralph Shults, and other staff members of the Adams County Record who made possible the publication of this book; and to the Mott Pioneer Press staff, particularly Dennis Maas, for the make-up and printing of the book.

Enid Bern Our Hettinger County Heritage

The Evolvement of Hettinger Co. The American Indian The area of land that is now within the present boundaries of Meanwhile, the American Indian held sway over this vast Hettinger County was at one time a part of the vast tract of domain, regardless of ownership claimed by various countries land claimed by France through the explorations of La Salle in or political subdivisions. 1682. In 1762, at the close of the , it The numerous arrowheads and other artifacts including an passed into the hands of Spain. It was later ceded back to occasional peacepipe, attest to the fact that Indians roamed France, and finally the United States acquired title to this area in fairly large numbers. Boulder rings are to be , as it was called, from France. found in various localities. They are commonly called lipi Since then, the Hettinger County area has been a part of the rings with the idea in mind that the stones which are spaced at following territories: Louisiana in 1803, Missouri in 1812, regular intervals in a circle, were used to anchor tipis,*but Nebraska in 1854, and the in 1861. In 1889, it there has been some speculation regarding this. Louis F. became a part of the state of North Dakota. Crawford in his History of North Dakota Vol. I writes that A rather interesting observation is that in 1834 the portion of upon inquiry, it was. learned that some elderly Indians as far North Dakota east of the Missouri and White Earth rivers was back as one hundred years had no information or tradition within the ; in 1836 it was incorporated into about these rigns. Furthermore, the had skin tents that ; in 1838 into Iowa Territory, and in 1849 were constructed in a manner not requiring anchorage. They into ; whereas our region lay in the knew nothing about their use. Mandan and did not use territory that had been the , but renamed skin tents, and had no knowledge about the use of rings. Indian Country in 1834. In 1854 we became part of the These groupings of circular arrangement of stones twelve to . (1) At that time the part of the state east twenty feet across, are as a rule, found on hillsides or rough, of the Missouri was still included in the Minnesota Territory. uneven ground unsuitable for tents, and generally were In 1871, when North Dakota east of the was located several miles away from camp. composed of two large counties, Buffalo and Pembina, the The location of these rings perhaps was not detected in region west of the river was unorganized Indian Territory. A many cases until after a severe drought or a prairie fire, as year later, a large part west of the Missouri was divided into the stones have almost been covered over with soil. Since soil counties.(2) forms very slowly, indications are that these rings were made When the Northern Pacific Railroad was to be built, un­ quite some time ago. Whatever the purpose may have b"cn, settled and unsurveyed territory was divided into counties to they arouse interest as remnants of the earliest inhabitants of give the impression of a well settled region and thus aid in the our land. sale of bonds.(3) On a territorial map of 1879, our area is in­ Of more recent times, the nomadic Sioux, a warlike tribe, cluded in Stark County. The territory of this county lay bet­ roamed the prairies in our particular area. Their relation ween the 102nd and 103rd meridians of longitude, and between to the white man is a story of rebellion against broken treaties, the 47th parallel of latitude and the South Fork of the Can­ and dishonest Indian agents. They resented the change in the nonball River.(4) Another source,(5) referring to the Laws of form of life imposed upon them by the government, which North Dakota, 1879 Chapter II, Sec. 4, states that the southern forced them into submission, and in many cases, punished boundary was the 46th parallel of latitude. them by withholding annuities in the form of food and clothing. In 1883, Stark County was divided into Stark and Hettinger The Indians' way of life had been changed when the white counties. Hettinger County included the southern part of Stark men had killed off the buffalo population, and adjustment to County lying between the 9th standard parallel on the north reservation life was difficult. They became insolent, and and the 46th parallel! of latitude on the south, and between the resented the invasion of the white men. They used every op­ 102nd meridian of longitude on the east and the 103rd meridian portunity to display their hatred through harassment, torture of longitude on the west.(6) and killing. Hettinger County lost some territory to Morton County in To keep the Indians in order and to protect the early settlers, 1887. and its eastern boundary now became the line between military posts were established along the frontier. General ranges 90 and 91.(7) Finally, in 1907, Adams County was Alfred Sully who built Fort Rice, carried out many military segregated from the original Hettinger County. A maneuvers against the Indians. In the summer of 1864, he was proclamation of the organization of Hettinger County was sent to punish the evasive Sioux who were reported to be in the made by Governor John Burke on April 17, 1907(8) Killdeer Mountains region. On leaving Fort Rice, he The proclamation provided that the dividing line between followed the Cannon Ball river. At a point between New Hettinger and Adams counties should run "east and west Leipzig and Burt, he turned north evidently traveling just along the north line of township 131 from the east line of the inside the Hettinger County line, and on to a location about county to the east line of range 95, thence west along the north eight miles from Antelope in Stark County where he ordered a line of township 132 to the west boundary of the county". corral. (10) From there lie went on the light the Battle of Furthermore, Hettinger County comprises the territory Killdeer Mountains. included between the north boundary of Adams County on the When gold was discovered in , many people ven­ south and the ninth standard parallel on the north, and bet­ tured through Sioux County in North Dakota. Intrusion was ween ranges 97 and 98 on the west,(9) and has 32 townships. greatly resented by the Indians whose fury was aroused by Sitting Bull even at this early date. Congress appropriated to explain, in fact I did not know that it was so named until I funds for the protection of the gold seekers and generally received your letter. It may have been named after one of the expeditions were accompanied by military men. party of eight, six soldiers and two citizens, who were killed On one particular expedition of this sort, Captain James L. while defending two wagons, which had fallen behind one of Fisk had been put in charge. He followed Sully's trail until it which had been upset and the other unfortunately containing turned north, then followed the Cannonball until they came to arms and amunition, and which was about two miles in the Chalk Buttes and then-pushed on westward. Everything went rear of the main train, when attacked by some sixty or more well until a wagon was accidently overturned somewhere in Indians three days before they went into corral. This is mere the vicinity southwest o,f Amidon. A guard of nine men was left speculation on my part as to its deriving that name. to help. After the rest had gone a short distance, they heard Information regarding the situation of the Fisk party was shots and returned only to find all dead or fatally wounded. brought to Fort Rice by the lieutenant accompanying Capt. (11) Fisk and fourteen of his men. They left the camp about twelve Here they spent the night in the rain, expecting the Indians o'clock on a stormy night and arrived at the fort on the night of to come any minute. The next day, they left in search of a the 7th of September. Col. Dill, 30th Wisconsin Infantry, who better camping place. This was the spot which is now Fort was in command at Fort Rice waited the arrival of Gen. Dilts in Bowman County. They built up a sod fort for protec­ Sulley, whom he knew would reach them on the following day, tion while Indians attacked from time to time. Three men before fitting out the party. They were a happy and greatly were killed at that time. (12) relieved band when we reached them and all were ready and A messenger was sent to Fort Rice for help. The trail of the anxious to return to the States. rescue party back to Fort Rice went east along the northern It was a hazardous undertaking on the part of Capt. Fisk to boundary line of Bowman County, entered Hettinger County in attempt the trip that season, as Gen. Sully had just passed the southwestern part, passed a little north of Mott, and then through that section of the territory harassing and fighting the took a direct course for Fort Rice.(13) This indicates that Indians, in a endeavor to make them give themselves up and white men passed through almost the entire length of Het­ make a treaty. tinger County in the year 1864. We had too battles with the Indians, namely Killdeer Mountains, July 28th and the Little Missouri, Aug. 6th, 7th, and The Mott Spotlight of February 3, 1916 published a letter 8th, had taken a large amount of property from them and it written to O.T. Peterson of Hettinger by a man who was one of made them very ugly, and it is a great wonder that the Indians the Fisk rescuing party. It reads as follows: did not massacre the entire party. "Replying to your letter of the 16th inst., will say that I have Trusting that this information will inform you in part of after overhauling and brushing up the tablets of my memory what you desire, I remain, of fifty years standing, been able to recall the following in­ Very truly yours cidents relative to the rescue of Capt. Fisk and party. D.J. Dodge I was one of the rescuing party sent out by General Alfred Sully to relieve Capt. James L. Fisk's party who were surrounded and in corral near the foothills along the Little Missouri River. Capt. Fisk's train consisted of about ninety From the booklet, Father DeSmet in North Dakota, by wagons. I do not think there were more than two men to the Father Louis Pfaller, we learn that passing through our area wagon, as near as I could calculate at the time. There were at a very early date was Father DeSmet. On June 3, 1868 about three hundred men, women, and children exclusive of Father DeSnlet with his 80 Sioux companions the lieutenant and fifteen calvary men, detailed from Fort and Major Galpin, who acted as an interpreter, set Rice to escort them through to the . The out on a westward bound expedition in search of Sitting detatchment that went to the rescue was composed of about Bull's camp. His route passed near the present sites of Brein, one thousand men, half foot and half mounted. We left Fort Raleigh, Elgin, New Leipzig, Mott, Regent, New England, and Rice on the morning of the 11th. of September, 1864. We Amidon, in North Dakota. followed Gen. Sully's trail, made about two months prior, on On June 8, when somewhere in the Mott area, Father De his way to the Killdeer Mountains about seventy miles, then Smet convoked a council and asked for riders to go ahead and left it to our right, taking a westerly course bearing slightly to the south. We reached the besieged party on the afternoon of scout the countryside in search of hostile camps. the 19th, making a distance of two hundred miles in eight days. "Galpin and De Smet carved their names in the soft rock This was big marching for the foot boys. along the route--De Smet in the two camps in the Mott area, We found the camp located on quite a rise of ground, the Buttes near New England. They passed north of the White wagons well parked for defense and the camp protected by Buttes near Amidon, and crossed the Little Missouri June 13," ri.^e pits built of earth and stone and located some distance (14) the fourth day since the scouts had gone ahead. The from any natural cover from the Indians. The besieged party scouts returned the 16th with the news that Sitting Bull would and stock suffered greatest from want of water for the party of receive them. As a result of the meeting, Sitting Bull returned the size in that section of the territory. It had been a very dry with Father De Smet and a great council between the army season and they had to depend largely on finding water in and the Indians was held at Fort Rice. stagnant pools, where it had stood perhaps for months. This I By the Treaty of 1868, the Black Hills were a part of the know to be a fact as I was with Gen. Sulley's expedition, which region set aside as part of the Great Sioux Reservation. had passed through the Badlands, forty or fifty miles north of General Custer led a troop of twelve hundred men into the this point two months prior, and water was difficult to find and Black Hills and came back with a report of the discovery of man and beast suffered greatly for the want of it. When we gold. This resulted in a gold rush. Attempts were made by the reached the party they were burning parts of their wagons for government to keep the whites out of the Black Hills, but when fuel, and feeding their stock with flour, and had been for days. the Indians refused to sell or lease the Hills for mining, they . How the camp derived the name "Camp Dilts" I am unable refused to protect any whites in Indian territory. A map published in the Mott Pioneer Press February 8,1940 their families in this section of the country were the shows the Custer Expedition of 1874 as passing through Colgroves, Shephards, Dobsons, Chases, Merrys, Beisigls, Hettinger County almost diagonally from northeast to south­ and Daytons, besides many others. west, crossing the Cannon Ball in about the vicinity of Regent. James Dobson had a camp in the early days on Antelope The Sioux, under Sitting Bull who violently repulsed all Creek. Later, he went into the sheep ranching business. His overtures toward a peaceful understanding, and had not wife and family of six sons and two daughters joined him in the signed the treaty of 1868,, did not stay within the boundaries of early 80's. The sons were Charles, James, John, George, the reservation. After the governmental order to return to the Smith, and Frank. agencies, the Sioux refused, and fighting began. This resulted Charles was an Episcopalian minister who had a sheep in the defeat of General Cook on the Rosebud Reservation, and ranch on the Cannonball River in Hettinger County. He was General Custer at the famous Battle of the Little Big Horn. frequently called the "Sky Pilot". For a time he was in part­ Eventually, the army won the upper hand and the Sioux nership with Edson Dayton, a seminary graduate, and who returned to their agencies. Sitting Bull escaped into Canada. later purchased the Cannonball Ranch. After his return, he incited the Indians into rebellion. In at­ John had a ranch on the Cannonball about two miles south tempting to resist, Sitting Bull was killed in December of 1890, east of the present town of Burt. Its location was Sec. 4-133-91 and there was no longer a threat from the now submissive of Cannon Ball.+ Sioux. George had a combination sheep, cattle, and horse ranch situated on the open range between the Cannonball and Cedar (1) North Dakota Historical Society Collections, V (1923), 169- Rivers. The unusual arrangement was managed by keeping 171. the sheep, cattle, and horses on separate ranges. His brand (2)Nina Farley Wishek, Along the Trails of Yesterday, (1941), was the Lazy HJ. In 1905 he fenced in Sec. 31 of the present 6-7. Cannon Ball township. Many of the posts are still a part of the (3)North Dakota Historical Society Collections. V (1923), 186. present fence line which encloses the Dog Town Buttes. (4)Project of the Works Progress Admisistrations for the The Beisigl Bros., George and August of the V Cross O, were State of North Dakota, North Dakota: A Guide to the Northern the largest cattlemen in this part of the country. They had Prairie State. Picture Section, North Dakota in 1879, from an 10,000 acres in Adams County and several hundred acres in old map of Dakota Territory. Hettinger County. Their permanent ranch buildings were on (5)North Dakota Historical Society Collections, V (1923), III, Sec. 27-131-91, now owned by Robert Kilzer. They are 190. said to have controlled about all of Beisigl township in Adams (6)Ibid. Ill, 203, 205. County, which was then part of the original Hettinger County. (7)Ibid. Ill, 218. One of the many cow camps was located on Timber Creek. A (8)Ibid. IV, 237. summer camp was on Sec. 21-134-91, Hettinger County, a short (9) North Dakota Historical Society Collections V, 237. distance from Thirty Mile Creek. The Beisigl Bros, are said to (10)Map showing the route of Gen. A. Sully on the Northwest have named North Star Butte, which was directly north of Expedition of 1864. Dept. of Public Instruction, M. F. Peter­ their camp. Around the buttes was some of the best land son, Superintendent. 833.64. available to them. (11) Mott Spotlight, February 3, 1916. (Since this edition was on-pared by a few high school pupils including myself, the More about the Beisigls will be given in the John Kolkema issue is still in my possession.) story. (12) The Chase family came to the region in about the year 1890. (13) Ibid. There were five grown sons: Grant, a six-footer; Leonard and (14) Louis Pfaller, O.S.B. Father De Smet in North Dakota. Osborn, both 6 ft. 2 in.; Nathan, 6ft. 4 in.; and a younger boy. (1962) 67 They had grown up on the frontier with a gun in their hands and were experienced in working with horses and cattle. They were said to be genial and high-spirited, quick tempered, and expression of it characteristic of frontier life. Osborn Chase was described as a splendid speciman of physical manhood - not a pound of superflous flesh, and Early Ranchers superior in lifting power. His brother Nathan was reported to have lifted the corner of a flat car. Os, as he was known, had a ranch on the Cannon Ball a mile east of Mott, and one six miles Hunters were among the first to realize the great south of this location. He had a large family and worked hard, possibilities for ranching in the West River Country. There but was always genial and hospitable. were wide open spaces with all the requirements necessary for raising sheep or cattle. Native grasses were nutritious and plentiful. Grass cured on the stem provided for grazing throughout the year. There was sufficient space near rivers, creeks, and waterholes, for summer grazing. Areas farther +Cannon Ball is written either as one word Or as two. The removed from rivers and streams could be grazed in the tendency seems to be written as one word when referring to winter with snow providing the required water supply. -Self- the river and two words when referring to the township. curing grasses could be cut for hay at the rancher's con­ venience to store for winter feeding. Sources of part of information: The Dickinson Press, July 2, With the coming of the railroad west of the Missouri River, 1957; Mott Pioneer Press, September 4, 1947; Edson Dayton, ranching established itself in the West River Country, in­ Dakota Days, 1937; John Kolkema, Dakota Farmer, March cluding Hettinger County. Among the names of ranchers and 8, 22, 1941. The nam^ of Colgrove has been very familial; in Hettinger The Historical Writers' project also records some of the County since Levi Colgrove first moved his family to Lime experiences of William Colgrove that are included in the ar­ Kiln Butte in 1885, two years after Stark County was divided ticle about an early rancher by the name of Shephard, in into Stark and Hettinger counties. William, the youngest of another portion of this history of early hunters and ranchers. Levi's family of five children, continued to live at this location, In telling of Mr. Colgrove, the writer states, quote: and it was here that he and his wife reared a family of four "William Colgrove attended the first school in Dickinson in sons and a daughter. Some of these, in turn, raised families of 1884. It was held in a store building and had 15 pupils. their own in this county and are still living here. Dickinson was then a lively place. The business section con­ The Historical Writers' Project in 1939 recorded an in­ sisted of two stores, a hotel and fourteen saloons and gambling teresting account of the experiences of Levi Colgrove's early places. All ranchers freighted supplies from Dickinson. life in southwestern North Dakota, which included Hettinger "In the early days most of the range cattle were long horns County. In this we learn that while gathering buffalo bones for bought in Texas, first driven across, and later shipped to shipment, Mr. Colgrove worked into the Lime Kiln Butte area Wyoming and driven across in bunches of 2,000 to 3,000 head to and decided to build a ranch there. This was shortly after he this part of the country for grazing. They were commonly had filed on a preemption about two miles south-east of allowed to roam the Badlands and rough country in winter Dickinson, and although the first building had been built in the without hay or shelter. Some would drift out on the prairie in new location in the summer of 1885, they did not move to the bad storms. In the spring there would be a big round-up and ranch permanently until the next spring, but spent the winter the cattle would be worked back on their respective ranges. in Dickinson. "The average price of cattle at that time was about $3.60 per Picking buffalo boiies in that territory was quite profitable hundred pounds for prairie steers, so no one got very rich as they were worth from ten to fifteen dollars per ton at the Sheep gradually increased and became a great industry. railroad. From there they were shipped to be made into fer­ "During the shearing season could be seen a string of loads tilizer and bone meal as well as other products. To facilitate waiting to unload at the big Dickinson warehouse. Large herds the picking, prairie fires were started to burn off the grass in of sheep were grazed through from Montana, planning to order to expose the bones, which then showed up white against arrive at Dickinson about shearing time, then graze on the the blackened ground. prairies for the balance of the summer. The average price Before coming to Hettinger County to live, the elder paid for wool was about sixteen cents per pound, but at times Colgrove had taken part in early buffalo hunts. According to was as low as seven cents. Bankers would not loan any money the historical writer, Mr. Colgrove and a son worked at the on land in those days. It had to be secured by cattle or sheep, carpenter trade during summer months but spent their the feed and the sheltering places." winters on the buffalo range and helped to kill the last of the "About 1898, Hettinger County was annexed to Stark County buffalo. The last big bunch was killed near the site of what was for Judicial purposes and two elections were held. The polling later the Rex Ranch, southeast of Mott at the head of Timber place of one was at the Frank Barth place or ranch, and the Creek. It was stated that around eight hundred Indian hunters other at the Jacob Zentner ranch on Thirty Mile Creek nor­ and several white men took part in the hunt. Several hundred theast of Mott. There was about fourteen or fifteen votes cast. buffalo were killed in this drive wri ch occured in October of The returns were taken to Dickinson by team and buggy, 1883. The following spring, a few that were shot north west of about sixty-five miles, and arrived there about two o'clock the New England were the last of the buffalo to be killed in this next morning, in charge of Dobson Brothers who drove their area. team and buggy" (2) The account goes on to say that; quote: "A Mr. Shephard located on the Canonball river northeast of "There were large fur trading posts or stores here and there the present site of Bentley in the summer of 1886. His home which sold hunters the necessary supplies and bought buffalo camp was located on Sec. 10(Sic) 133-91(3) and was long meat and hides. These stores arranged to freight to the known afterward as the "Dobson Ranch". After organization railroads and ship to market. They paid about two and a half of the county, 133-91 became Cannon Ball township. cents per pound for buffalo meat and two dollars and fifty "Shephard drove a herd of some 300 cattle across the state of cents for the buffalo hide. The only buffalo meat they to his ranch site in 1886. He sold out to CH. would buy was the choice portions of the hind and front Merry about three years later. The original Shephard ranch quarters, the sirloin and tongues. The cost of hauling was high headquarters were about 10 miles southwest of Shephard and prevented hauling meat very far with the freighting teams. Many buffalo were shot down and not touched af­ Butte which is said to have been named for him. The rancher terwards. It was not an uncommon sight to see the buffalo put up about 40 tons of hay that first year a few miles northeast meat pitted up along the railroad tracks like cordwood, of his home camp also several tons near the Dog Town Buttes, waiting for cars for shipment. (Sec. 31-133-91) which were named later." The 1930 account from the Historical Writers Project adds: "Many professional buffalo hunters had men hired to "The winter of 1886-87 was one of the hardest winters ever follow them and skin the buffalo they killed. There was a experienced in this country. Being in need of help, Mr. mange skin disease among the buffalo and many had lost all Shephard set out for the Colgrove ranch at Limestone (or their hair except the long hair of the mane and tail. It was Lime Kiln) Butte, to hire one of the Colgrove boys, if possible. against the law for a white man to hunt buffalo on the Indian Enroute to the Colgrove ranch, Mr. Shephard became lost in reservation and many hunters were arrested by Indian police and taken to the Standing Rock Agency, but many hunters (DHistorical Writers' Project, Works Progress Ad­ were not caught. ministration State Historical Society of North Dakota, "After the buffalo were all killed then the professional Bismarck, North Dakota. hunters took up the hunting of deer and antelope and trapping (2) Ibid beaver."(1) (3) Actually Sec. 4. the snowstorm and wandered around the Limestone Butte all Other early ranchers prior to 1904 were Chas. Mut- night, reaching the Colgrove ranch early the next morning, schelknaus, on the Cannonball River six miles northwest of badly frozen. Charley Merry, Jacob Meier and Matt Senn. (1) Joseph Senn is "After a day's rest, Mr. Shephard, accompanied by William also shown on the survey map as having a ranch location on Colgrove (son of Levi Colgrove), started out for the Shephard Section 10 and 15 of 135-92. ranch and reached it two days later." Edson Dayton, in his book Dakota Days, tells of coming to The account tells of a, blizzard Feb. 10, 1887 which prevented Dakota Territory in 1886, on the advice of a friend. Mr. Dayton Shephard and William Colgrove from hauling hay from near was at that time a seminary student who had been Dog Town Buttes, making it necessary to feed the cattle hay having bronchial hemorrhages. He had one year of seminary which had previously been used for bedding the stock. In work left, but decided to go to western Dakota for a year, go March of that year they drove 250 head of cattle five miles up back to finish his work at the seminary, and then return to the river to the moutR of Spring Creek, where Shephard had Dakota to take up ranching. his 40 tons of hay. There they built a corral of snow under a The first winter was the hard winter of 1886-87. There was an bluff, a snow house with a tent for a roof and a snow barn for unusual amount of snow, and gales of wind whipped up bliz­ the horses. Before spring came the two men were living ex­ zards in fifty-five below zero temperature. That was the clusively on beef and beans. There wer* some chickens at the winter the cattle industry of the Bad Lands received a blow ranch and they had eggs early in the winter, but later, as Mr. from which it never recovered. One man lost seven thousand Colgrove explained to the author of the 1939 article, the hens steers; the Outfit lost twenty thousand steers and two men. were too busy scratching snow out of their nests to think of At this particular time the buffalo had become extinct. It laying eggs. It was easy to lose track of the time in those days was also the day of prohibition, and its consequences. The of winter isolation. It is recorded that someone from the general run of settlers there were both good and evil. Shephard ranch made a trip to Dickinson for supplies in the Nearly all people were young, and it took the law a long time spring of 1887 and found, on checking on the date, they had to get the upper hand Population was in a state of change. gained two days. There appeared to be more unity on the basis of natural man. Shephard was given credit by the old-timers as a trail blazer Mr. Dayton was interested in both cattle and sheep. As a because of the well defined trails made between his ranch and starter he purchased cattle and sheep to be handled by others. the Limestone Butte and from the former to Dickinson. In 1891, he made a common investment with Charles Dobson, a clergyman who had a sheep ranch on the Cannonball in Hettinger County. Mr. Dayton was to buy half interest in the Henry Barry was an early rancher who stayed on to become ranch, and add a trainload of sheep to be cared for by Dobson. a homesteader. He played an important part in the Dobson became ill and eventually sold out to Dayton. organization of Hettinger County, being appointed as one of There were 4500 sheep and 1600 lambs - too many to carry on the delegation to appear before the legislature in connection one ranch. He sold the lambs to C.H. Merry and bought out the with a move to effect a county organization. He was then Chases on the Cedar in unorganized Hettinger County. appointed sheriff of the new county and for a time carried on All three ranches lay in a southeasterly direction from his official duties while still living on his homestead where he Dickinson, where he had his headquarters. All three could be was still engaged in ranching. He also served as clerk of court taken in, going to or from the Cedar Ranch. This allowed him for fifteen years and later farmed with his son, Kenneth, west to change horses on his trip. of New England. The Cannonball Ranch was a short distance west of the Ed. Barry, brother of Henry, had come out at an earlier present location of Mott. The Black Butte Ranch was eight or time and ranched with Dobson brothers who had their ten miles northwest of Mott, and the Cedar Ranch thirty to headquarters on Sec. 10-133-91, along the Cannonball River. thirty-five miles southeast of Mott - two miles north of Lem- They ran cattle, sheep, and a few horses over the area in­ mon, South Dakota - in unorganized Hettinger County. cluding the Mott townsite. Ed. was appointed sheriff of Adams Because of the possibility of three or four months of im­ County at the same time that Henry became sheriff of Het­ passable roads, preparations had to be made to lay in supplies tinger County. for that length of time. He would purchase a half ton of bacon, Henry's homestead was located on Sec. 30- a half ton of sugar, one hundred twenty-five cases of canned 133-91 on the north side of Dog Town Buttes. He proved up in goods, dried fruit, and other necessities. Mutton was always 1903, but continued to ranch for a time in connection with his available as a meat supply. duties as sheriff. A constant threat to stockmen was fire for it could destroy Mr. Barry, a colorful rancher dressed in western cowboy both pasture and hayfield, or even stock. In preparation to clothing, rode a beautiful horse outfitted in fine protect property, furrows were made around the buildings and trappings. He was well known as a baseball player and for his stacks, and then around the winter range. This might be about fine bass voice, as he sang at various pioneer weddings and fourteen or sixteen miles long. A parallel strip 60 - 90 feet from parties. Mrs. Barry was acclaimed Queen of the 50th this was plowed, and in the summer when the grass was dry, Anniversary celebration in 1957. the grass between the strips was burned. This was done when the wind was from the right direction. Two men would be on the outside of each row of furrows to prevent the fire from jumping them. The fifth man would come along with a barrel Source in part: Mott Pioneer Press, September 4, 1947. of water. The cloth used by the men beating the fire could be dipped into it. Plans were the made as to what to do to make a stand against an oncoming fire. They would go out beyond the The original land survey map of Baer township made in the fire guard and ignite the grass so as to widen the fire guard. early nineties, shows the location of the Dan Harrington ranch This was called backfiring. as being in the southeast quarter of Section 31. A spring and a coal bank are indicated as being close to the ranch site. (l)Brown Collection, North Dakota State Historical Society. Prairie fires could be started by a cigarette stub, embers our belongings, with the exception of two saddle horses, for from a camp fire, a burning coal mine, lightning, and sun riding equipment and started for the cow-camp about 75 miles beating against a tin can or piece of glass. southeast of Dickinson, on Timber Creek. This was only one of If the flame was not too high, it could be stamped out by the camps of the Beisigl Bros., owners of the "V Cross O" dragging the foot over a line of fire. Generally a wet gunny brand and the largest cattlemen in this section of the state sack was used to beat the flames. Sometimes an animal was (Hettinger and Adams Counties) and reputed to be killed and skinned. The end of each of two ropes was attached millionaires. George, the older of the two brothers, is still to the skin, and the other ends to the pommel of each of two living and has a beautiful ranch in the bend of Timber Creek, saddles. Two men on horses, one on each side of the fire, would Hettinger County., about five miles below the old cow camp drag the heavy, wet skin over the line of fire. and 12 miles northeast of Lemmon, South Dakota. There were several conflagrations. One extremely hot Earlier, George had been an attorney, but had given up his summer, one raged between the Cedar and Cannon Ball profession to go into the cattle business and seemed to be right rivers. A few days later another occurred between the Can­ in his element when driving the chuck wagon. At the present nonball and the Antelope. The next day fire consumed the time he must be nearing his 80's and spends the winters on his space between the Cedar and the Grand in South Dakota. ranch in California, but always comes back to his ranch in South of the N.P.R.R. the country was burned up except for North Dakota in the summer. August Beisigl, a younger a few ranches that were saved. The fire guard for the three brother and partner of George, died two years ago. The Beisigl Dayton ranches held as a result of strategy and fighting on the Bros, were natives of Minnesota and were owners of a large part of the men of the ranch. cattle feeding station at Becker, Minnesota. Steers that were Dire results occurred when Mr. Dayton purchased one not in prime condition were shipped from ranges and finished hundred lambs. He had not been informed that they had been off on corn, then reshipped for sale to the livestock markets at treated only once for scabies, but not cured. His whole flock of St. Paul or Chicago. 12,000 sheep had been exposed before he learned of it. That But to get back to our camp - there werel2 riders, including necessitated the purchase of 1500 gallons of tobacco paste at my partner and myself, riding herd on 2300 head of steers. At $1.00 per gallon, and the enormous task of dipping twice. After this time ranchers were few and far apart. Grass was plentiful shearing, sheep and lambs were again dipped twice. Cannon and the ranges boundless, a perfect paradise for livestock. Ball and Black Butte sheep were brought to the Cedar for However we kept these steers within certain limits adjacent to treatment. Forty or fifty men were engaged in this job. Timber Creek. Besides the steers, we also had a "cow bunch" Mr. Dayton was very high in his praise of a young foreman numbering 600 head. This was "she" stock kept for breeding named Dominick Vranna, of Dickinson, stressing the value of purposes, on a range and a tributary of the Cannonball, near having a man as competent and loyal in carrying out the where the town of Bentley now stands. The foreman usually responsibilities in operating the Cedar ranch. Mr. Dayton had sent out four riders about twice a week to round them up and the utmost confidence in him, believing that no matter what get a count on them. In the fall this stock was taken north turned up of an adverse character, Dominick would do as well about 40 miles and distributed among settlers, to be wintered as, or better'than anyone else could do. and then returned again to the range in the spring. Our main After dipping, Mr. Dayton, exposed to excessive exertions camp consisted of a large sod house, with a neverfailing and strain, felt he had reached his limit. His throat was cured, spring and a coal bank, about 100 yards distant, also corrals so after twelve years of ranching in Hettinger County, he and a cattle shed large enough to accommodate 800 head. disposed of his interests. He said that notwithstanding the Hettinger County was an unorganized county at this time hardships, the fatigue, the disappointments of his Dakota life, and comprised of what is now Hettinger and Adams Counties, the joy of health and high endeavor, as well as loyal and was under the jurisdiction of Stark County. It was not only comradship made glorious the days and years of his most unorganized, but still only partially surveyed. However, active manhood. during my first summer with this outfit, a party of engineers pitched their ca'mp within a few hundred yards of ours and Source: Edson C. Dayton, Dakota Days, Copyright 1937 by completed a survey in that vicinity. Edson C. Dayton. In going to work on this ranch, each rider was given a string of eight saddle horses to be used exclusively by him. Some of these were fairly well broke. The green ones were turned over John Kolkema, father of Mrs. Henry Svihovec of Mott, in his to a bronc "peeler" or "twister" who topped them off a few story published in the Dakota Farmer, in 1941, told of riding times and the rest was up to the "rider" or "cowpoke" who into this area with George Runyon around the turn of the happened to get one of these broncs on his string. I have seen century. They drove from the Heart River southwest to the many a pitching contest in which the rider did not always River, following this stream until they came to New England. finish as the winner. However, after a few weeks of hard New England at that time consisted of one building, a hotel, a riding the horses were pretty well tamed down unless they post office, and general store, all under one roof. From there were natural-born outlaws, in which case they were never to they went to Dickinson, on the , a be trusted. I have seen them, without any apparent reason, genuine cow-town and supply station for ranchers within 125 throw their heads down between their front legs and go after miles. Let us continue the story as he told it in his own words: the rider until one of them was returned the conqueror. Quote: An interesting episode occurred this summer. Dan Leaving our outfit at a livery barn, we soon found a Harrington and Ben Kirkland from our camp mounted a restaurant where we satisfied the inner cravings of man. couple of frisky broncs and started out as usual on "circle". We also heard of many ranchers being in town looking for The day was so hot they rode to the creek to give their mounts "hands". Walking down the street we were halted by one of a drink. Ben's horse, having quenched his thirst, walked out these foremen (of the V Cross O), asking if we were looking for upon the bank with Ben astride and there waited for Dan. Then a job. Replying in the affirmative, we closed the deal at $35.00 things began to happen. The next thing that Ben saw was a month and grub, which was the usual wages. We swapped all Dan's body being catapulted through the air and landing in the 10 middle of the creek and his horse stampeding across the -that summer and when spring opened up, we loaded a double prairie. Convulsed with laughter, Ben heard Dan yell, "Get wagon box of ranch supplies and drove out to this ranch about my horse, you ranny!" Suddenly slamming the hooks into his 65 miles southeast of Dickinson, between the Cannonball and horse, Ben duplicated Dan's act by sailing through the air but Cedar rivers and within about eight miles of the "V Cross O" landing on dry ground instead. Both afoot now, they attempted ranch, where I had worked the previous summer. to catch those horses, which as a rule is quite easily done as George was one of six brothers, who were as follows: James most saddle horses will stand when ground reined. However, Dobson, with a horse ranch in a range of hills located in what with loose cinches and plenty of pitching, the saddles had is now Adams County, Smith, with a ranch on Antelope turned and were now underneath their bellies, frightening Creek, south of Dickinson; John, an engineer on the Northern them to such an extent that the boys were unable to approach Pacific Railway; Charles, a preacher, also called "Sky Pilot" near enough to get their hands on the reins. After unsuccessful by some of the men; and Frank, the youngest, who drifted attempts, they started for camp afoot, a distance of about 12 down into South Dakota, and eventually started a sheep ranch. miles. These men originally came from New York State. To my best We were all sitting around the camp that evening wondering knowledge, most of these brothers are now dead, Jim being why those boys did not show up, although it was nothing new the last one I saw alive about five years ago, in the town of for riders to be gone for even a couple of days. About this time Mott. He also passed away a short time later. those two bedraggled, weary and footsore pilgrims hove into As stated before, George Dobson's ranch was situated on the sight. This was the signal for shouts of derision, a pounding of open range between the Cannonball and Cedar rivers. As an pans and old tin cans by the rest of the gang who acted in the ample supply of living water is a deciding factor in choosing a role of reception committee. If looks could kill we would have location for ranching purposes. George had chosen well, been dead men in another second, for coming in afoot after erecting his ranch buildings beside a large and never failing starting out on a horse is considered the most humiliating act spring. I may say, in passing, that all good stockmen follow on the range and those two boys surely got an unmerciful that example, as a ranch would be practically worthless ribbing for some time afterward. They being too sore to even without that advantage. fork a horse, the boss sent a couple riders down the creek to find those broncs. They were found in the $125.00 saddles still The George Dobson ranch was what might be called a on them, or rather under them, and returned to camp. When it combination sheep, cattle, and horse, ranch. This was is considered that those two riders had to walk the entire 12 somewhat unusual, but worked out well by placing the sheep miles in high-heeled cowboy boots, you may realize that it was in a summer camp on Timber Creek in charge of a herder nothing short of torture. who, by the way, was a one-armed man by the name of Her­ man Bowman. A bunch of cattle with Dobson's brand, Lazy This was actually a line camp and the punchers or riders HJ, were on a range farther up the creek, while his horses were termed as line-riders or circle-riders. These riders did ranged at will both summer and winter in separate bands on their riding in pairs (1) for comradship; (2) for help in case of the range, but usually located near some springs in the hills. an accident, and (3) in case of a bunch of cattle having strayed With another rider it was our job to ride herd on these cattle. off the range, two men would have less trouble driving them About the first of June this stock was driven to the home back. ranch, the calves were branded and returned to the range. There was not much chance of stock straying off the range after they had been located unless it was during stormy Also at at this time the different bands of horses were taken weather. In May of that year we had two weeks of cold rain. to the ranch, the colts branded and then turned out of the One rainy day we were ordered to round up all the steers we corrals. It was not necessary to drive these back to their could find. We bunched them on a flat and after getting a count range. They would return of their own accord in the shortest on them discovered we had 800 head of steers left out of 2300. possible space of time. It took long days of hard riding and trailing to get those steers For breeding purposes, a stallion was placed in a bunch of back on the range but this was finally accomplished and all mares in a favorable location near a spring and he would do steers accounted for. The cow bunch did not scatter as much, about as neat a job of close herding and guarding as I have as they had a more sheltered range. Also cows with calves do ever seen. He would allow no other horses to come in close not drift like steers. proximity to his harem. Nothing missed his keen eyesight or That fall I helped trail a bunch of 1,500 head of steers up to scent and if he saw a large band of horses approaching, he Sims, a shipping station about 60 miles north, on the Northern would drive his herd to some secluded spot in the hills and then Pacific Railway. It was late in the fall and getting quite cold. bring them back to their old range after the strangers had There were about ten of us on this drive, including George passed by. I have seen stallions stand for hours on a high point Beisigl, who as usual drove the chuck wagon and did the watching their band and at the same time scanning the cooking. After breakfast, George would direct us to the next horizon and at the first sign of danger rush for their band, head camping ground and while he and the horse wrangler broke and tail held high and nostrils open. The mares seemed to camp the riders would start the herd and by noon we would immediately sense danger, would bunch together, and allow strike camp and George would holler, "Come and get it." That themselves to be driven off by their master. Instances have was surely a welcome call after a cold ride. But the worst been recorded where the stallions of two separate bands would feature of this drive was standing night guard on the herd, meet and then there would be a fight to the death or until one although this was done in 3-hour shifts with three men in each would be too badly injured to continue, in which case the shift. At the end of three days, we arrived at Sims. The next victor might even take over the mares of the loser. day the steers were allowed a rest and to get a good fill on To show the sagacity of these western horses, I will relate grass, then loaded and shipped to Chicago in two trainload lots the following incident. I was ordered by the boss to bring in a accompanied by myself and two of the other boys. band of mares ranging in the Pendy Hills, about 20 miles west After visiting in Chicago for some time I returned to of the home ranch. Riding one of the top saddle horses, a large Dickinson, staying with George Dobson, a rancher, who also rangy well-muscled animal and swinging along at an easy had a home in town. I made arrangements to work for George lope, I soon came in sight of the hills. Entering a coulee, I 11 proceeded along until it flared out and up to a small rise of sun and all the land marks for miles around. With the sud­ ground - reined my mount. Hunching low and working way denness and force of a tornado that blizzard swept upon us, forward, I neared the top of the rise. Carefully removing my almost unseating me in a thick cloud of snow, fine as flour, Stetson, I ventured to take a look and there about 600 yards whipping it into eyes and nostrils, blinding and choking both away I could see the outline of the back of a horse. Ducking man and beast. At this moment I was about a quarter of a mile low, I started back to my mount. I had just reached him when I from an arroyo which by some miracle I was able to reach and heard the nicker and then the running feet of horses. I ran which led to Jimmy Weldon's ranch buildings. After putting back to the top of the rise, flung myself on my stomach and up my horse I walked into the house. just watched that band high-tailing it for the hills, about two Upon entering, I discovered that Mrs. Weldon and her two miles to the west, and disappearing around a shoulder of a hill children were home alone. Answering a question, she said that and into another coulee. I am unable to account for their Jimmy was down in a bend of the river with a bunch of cattle, stampeding as they did because I am quite certain they did not about half a mile from home. She was not worried, saying the see or scent me as I came up from the lea side. timber offered the best of protection and that he would be Getting back into the saddle, I retraced my route for about a home soon, which proved to be the case as he came in about 20 quarter of a mile and then started to swing in a wide circle that minutes later. would bring me to a point west of where I expected to find However, had he been caught in the open prairie, nothing them. The idea was to get them between me and the ranch could have saved him. The storm raged with an undiminished which had been my intention in the first place, only to have my fury throughout the night until well along toward daylight, plans miscarry. Arriving near the spot where I calculated when it ceased as abruptly as it started. Morning dawned they would be, I rode boldy and at a fair speed over the ridge clear as a bell and with a deathly stillness in the cold, crisp air. and directly toward them. Rushing together with the leader in After breakfast, Jimmy and I saddled our horses and rode a run, they started in the direction of the ranch. For about two up out of the river bottom and up on the large flat north of the miles they went at top speed. They then began to slow down as ranch. After riding a couple of miles, we stopped at the foot of they were fat and soft, most of them being in a lather by this a range of hills. In a few moments a big buck antelope hove time, while my mount, grain-fed and used to hard riding, just into sight, coming up out of a coulee between two pinnacles breezed along without any difficulty. In a few hours I had them and followed by 31 others. The leader, standing spraddle corraled. The next morning the colts were branded, after legged, gave us one good long look. Then, like a shot out of a which the corral gates were opened and the band returned to gun, he whirled and dashed away in a northwesterly direction, its old range. followed by the rest of the herd. Their hoofs threw up a cloud of During this time, a Mr. and Mrs. Fred White, a middle-aged snow until they were lost in the distance. Having been driven couple, were employees of this ranch. Mrs. White served in the in a southeasterly direction, by the blizzard, they were capacity of a cook and Fred as a sort of man of all work around returning to their home range. While that big buck was giving the place. Mr. White is still living, and at the present time is us the "once over" Jimmy and I just looked at each other. We County Judge of Slope County. didn't say word. It was not necessary as neither of us had a Game, expecially wild fowl, was plentiful during this gun. season. A hunting party, consisting of George Dobson and two Observing some riders coming in our direction from the officials of the First National Bank of Dickinson, drove down west, we rode out to meet them. It was Lally, the foreman, and to Timber Creek and returned in about three hours with 123 three of the riders of the V Cross O ranch looking for stock that ducks and some prairie chickens. This proved to be a busy had strayed during the storm. The stock had been out on the night as all hands were put to work dressing those birds. open range and the entire bunch of 800 head was caught out in I severed my connection with the Lazy HJ ranch that fall the storm. Just before meeting these men we had crossed a and went back to the old "V Cross O" camp of the Beisigl coulee blown full of snow and had noticed several head of Bros., where I had been the previous year. The foreman had cattle with portions of their bodies or heads or just ears made a contract to winter 800 head of LP. Baker steers. This protruding from the snow. All were dead, either frozen or man Baker was one of the earliest settlers with headquarters smothered or both. On looking'at their brands we found them at Bismarck, but had quite a large investment in livestock to be the LP Baker stuff. A later count showed a loss of 600 which was scattered in different locations on the range. head. These I. P. Baker cattle were in charge of Lally and After being at this camp about six weeks I quit the job, roped were being wintered by him. The high wind during this storm, my belongings on a pack horse, put my saddle on another and had swept the snow from the hill-tops and flats and deposited headed down the creek for the winter and I was unable to get it in the creeks and coulees, in some places to a depth of work. For about the next two months I rode around, stopping twenty feet. Cattle drifting before a blizzard and blinded by at intervals of one or two weeks with the various ranchers I the whirling snow, are unable to extricate themselves, sinking knew, not doing much, just riding with the boys in the daytime deeper and deeper and struggling until exhausted and finally and playing cards at night and infrequently attending a dance. perished. This brings to mind a dance held at the Duncan Ranch on the Returning to the Weldon Ranch we found his cattle around Cedar River, about 40 miles below the "V Cross O" outfit, in the buildings, they having come home while we were gone. A the latter part of January, 1902.1 stayed at the Duncan Ranch tally showed that they were all there. several days. Then on the first day of February, a beautiful, Just before dinner, one of the Crites brothers rode in, saying warm, sunshiny day, I saddled my horse and started for the I was just the man they were looking for. These men had a Jimmy Weldon Ranch, about 12 miles up the Cedar River. ranch on lower Timber Creek and had only a slight loss as they Following a wagon trail on the bend of the river, I had were near the timber. However, they also had a camp in the removed my coat and was riding my horse at a walk. Nearing Potato Hills, several miles to the north, in the Coffin Butte Weldon's place which was in among the timber, in a bend of Country, where they were wintering a "hospital" bunch. This the Cedar River, suddenly and without warning I was struck means a bunch of old or thin stuff, that are fed hay and by a cool breeze. On looking up I beheld what seemed like a shedded during the winter. I spent the balance of the winter gray wall advancing toward me, completely obliterating the at this camp with Jack Crites, living in a dugout, about 12 x 10 12 feet in size. We were rather cramped for room and, lacking Some of the notable ranchers of this time on the Cannon Ball windows, it was necessary to keep an oil lamp throughout were: Summerfield Birdsall, cattle and horse rancher, now a the day. banker and grain buyer at New Leipzig and also owner of a Leaving this camp in the spring, I went back to work for modern ranch near Gladstone; Ed Barry, sheepman, who George Dobson and his Lazy HJ outfit until the spring of 1903, went into business at Hettinger, county seat of Adams County; when together with a brother, I started a little spread of my Charles Mutschelknaus, sheepman, living at Mott, who owns own near a spot with an unlimited supply of water within three a large well-improved farm four miles west of Mott, operated feet of the surface. I had a squatter's right on this location by one of his sons; LP. Baker, who also had several cow which I subsequently homesteaded. My brother-in-law, W. C. camps strung alone the river, which were in charge of Ben Howard, also came out from Chicago. He had at one time been Singletary, foreman, a Texan who is now dead. stationed, at Fort Yates, ND, and later at Fort Meade, Those on the Cedar River were the Northwestern Ranch, SD, so that he was not new to the country. Mr. Howard was in sheepmen. Charles Merry, now dead, owned at one time 10,000 reality a western man, having ridden the range for outfits head. Fartherdown the river was Ed. Hodgkinson, cattleman. down Colorado way and mostly for the JJ outfit in the Jimmy Weldon and H. Duncan were also cattlemen, with Cimarron River country. other stockmen between the two rivers. The next year we wintered a bunch of stock for Osborn Contrary to the authors the western stories in a majority of Chase, a neighbor rancher living about five miles to the north­ .magazines and some books, especially of the cheap kind en­ west. Mr. Chase, better known as "Os" by his many friends in cased in highly colored covers, wherein the western cattlemen the range country, was one of five brothers. All were giants in or range rider is depicted as a killer, whose greatest ambition stature. Os stood 6 foot two inches in his stocking feet and is to fill all his gun-butts with notches, testifying to the number possessing tremendous strength. As a proof of this strength it of men he has killed, I wish to make an emphatic denial of is only necessary to relate an incident that occurred during the these lurid stories. Having been raised on the range and haying season. Two of his men came in late one evening, each through my personal association with these men, I know with a load of hay, one of which was to be unloaded in the hay whereof I speak, and that the reverse is true. Usually the mow at the barn. Climbing to the load, Os told both men to get cattleman is a man of few words, modest and retiring, honest into the mow, while he pitched the hay up to them. The boys and trustworthy, loyal and true as steel to his friends and had forgotten about a sack of oats underneath the load of hay employees. He would in fact, fight or die for them in a crisis but they suddenly remembered it when the sack of oats came and his greatest fault was his boundless generosity. This was up to them together with a bunch of hay. But Os went right on the chief reason why a cowboy was always broke. In this pitching and never would have known about the sack of event, he would borrow money from his friends. These oats, had he not been told by his men. obligations were promptly met when he received his first pay Stories of his courage and hardihood are also well known. On check, as no dead-beats were tolerated on the range. Mort­ Bad Lands he had the misfortune to freeze both large tooes. gages and notes were unheard of. A rider's word was as good There being no doctor within 40 miles, he calmly unsheathed as a gold bond. his hunting knife and amputated both toes himself. Another Life on the range was not as lonely and monotonous as it time he was bitten in the arm by a rattler. Slitting the spot might appear. There was a spirit of comradeship among these where the fangs had entered, he sucked the poison from it. men that made it interesting and homelike. Besides this, it Then he slapped a big chew of "Peerless" over the wound and meant long days of hard riding in the exhiliarating air and fastened it on with strips torn from his shirt. He then went ever-changing scenery, which made the time pass swiftly, and about his duties, as though nothing had happened. then to come in with a voracious appetite, and sit down to a His first ranch was built in the bend of the Cannon Ball River well cooked western meal, such as only a range cook can just a mile east of the present town of Mott, county seat of provide, is a real treat in itself. The amount of food those Hettinger County. He also owned a summer camp in the hills waddies put away was almost unbelievable, while between about six miles south. He started in the sheep business but mouthfuls there was an interchange of good-natured banter. later branched out with cattle and horses. After living on the river ranch for some years, he disposed of the location and Our nearest post office at that time was Leipzig, about 20 moved to his summer camp, which he built up into his home miles to the northeast. It was customary at long intervals for ranch. the boss to send a couple of riders to get the mail. This was an Although I had known Os for several years, I did not get occasion when everything was dropped to read the news from intimately acquainted with him until I started to build up my the outside world. However, between these periods, ranchers own place, when he came over with a team and man and and freighters driving through and stopping at our camp, voluntarily offered his services. We gratefully accepted and would bring out newspapers from Dickinson and also ex­ with his help it was just a matter of a few days until our sod change news of the range country. Another post office, called house was ready for occupancy. Os Chase was a genuine Chase, was later established at the Charles Mutschelknaus speciman of the typical westerner, unassuming, honest, and ranch west of Mott. generous to a fault, whose boundless hospitality and devotion Among the most enjoyable events on the range were the to his large family and loyalty to his friends was a by word on dances held at the various ranch homes. These dances were the range. A "square shooter" if there ever was one. I have attended by all the ranchers, their families, and riders within always considered myself fortunate in being rated as one of the radius of forty miles. The news of an impending dance his close friends. It is regretable that he, like many of his spread like wildfire. As no invitations were needed, all those fellow ranchers, was forced to dispose of his interest in 1905, notified tried to attend. Besides my partner, George Runyon, when swarms of nesters and homesteaders filed on land. Sod who played the fiddle, and his wife who picked a guitar or and tar-paper shacks sprang up like mushrooms over night, banjo, there were several other musicians in the neighborhood which sounded the death knell of ranching. Os Chase has been to take their places when they tired. This was fortunate for dead for years and I am firmly convinced that the loss of his them, as these dances continued for two night in succession little "kingdom" was instrumental in hastening his death. and did not end until broad daylight. 13 Most all ranchers' homes were large and roomy, built either Dickinson or located in other states. of sod or logs, with an additional bunkhouse near by. When From that period on, a gradual process of disintegration of coming to these dances in cold weather, hay was put in the what had once been a matchless cow country, took place. bottom of the wagon box and covered with blankets. The boss, Using horse-drawn and large powered machinery, the his wife, and children and perhaps some of us riders would pile luscious rich grasses of the prairie were turned under in an in, cover up with robes, and with a team of fiery high-strung incredibly short space of time, transforming an otherwise broncs hitched to the wagon, start rolling and bouncing in the rich, natural stock range into what, at the end of twenty years, general direction of the ranch where the dance was being held. proved to be a semi-desert, where dust storms raged, blotting Arriving there, the ladies and children were unloaded at the out the sun, and where the drifting soil in many instances, house and the team taken to the barn and fed. The men would covered up fences. Black blizzards were infinitely more then retire to the house or bunkhouse to warm up, shake hands devastating that the white ones. all around with their friends, and engage in general con­ We are now in the midst of an era when man, through his versation while the ladies put their youngsters to bed or placed puny efforts and at enormous government expense, is at­ them on rugs on the floor of the bunkhouse. tempting to reclaim the wasteland, once the natural habitat of At the first sound of music, everyone stampeded for the the buffalo, later of livestock, but now ravished and despoiled house, from which all the furniture and beds had been through the medium of so-called civilization. removed and taken to the bunkhouse to make room for the How has this affected the farmers? I will venture a guess dancers. Square dances being in vogue at that period, it was that in this area, the farm population has decreased by at least sometimes difficult to "fill" two or three sets, due the the one-half, and 90 percent of those remaining are living on the scarcity of ladies, who were greatly outnumbered by the men. bounty of a generous government. In such cases, it was necessary to "draft" men to take the Myself? I am still living on my old ranch location where I ladies' part. A handkerchief was usually knotted around his was forced through encroaching civilization to turn down a upper arm to distinguish him as a "lady" and to prevent any chance of becoming a cattle king. Ranching days are over for mixups. Usually these dances started out quiet enough, until me, although at heart I am still a rancher and my sweetest the boys got over their timidity, a great failing of ranch hands, memories are of those days when I rode the range, when especially where ladies were concerned. But before morning friends were loyal pals and men were men. Old age is slowly this had been overcome and the dance would develop into a creeping up on me and many of those old friends have passed somewhat boisterous event. The sounds of music, the raucous out into the Great Unknown and when I join them I will do voice of the leatherlunged caller, the shuffle of feet, the jingle so, theoretically at least, with my boots on. (1) of spurs, and the whoops of the dancers, was positive proof that these waddies and their lassies were having the time of Theodore Roosevelt is said to have run cattle over Hettinger their lives. Although outnumbered at times by six to one, no County in the early 1880's when his ranch headquarters were lady every refused to dance with a man, providing he was in the Bad Lands near Medora. (2) courteous and respectful. Neither would she engage any partner for future dances, this being strictly contrary to the Calamity Jane, of Deadwood fame and the wife of Wild Bill code of the west. Here all men were considered equal. There Hickock, is said to have established a ranch up around New was no such thing as class distinction and favoritism was not England after the death of her husband in a Poker game. shown to anyone. Calamity Jane died in Deadwood about the close C-: the cen­ tury. (3) In the spring of 1905, my brother-in-law, W. C. Howard, my brother Con, and myself had made arrangement to take 300 head of white-faced cows on shares for one-half the increase (1) The "Dakota Farmer," Aberdeen South Dakota, May 8, and one-half the original bunch at the end of three years. We and May 22, 1941. were, however, forced to cancel this contract owing to the (2) Federal Writers' Project, North Dakota State Historical great influx of settlers. This was the year of the land boom, when arrivals from eastern states literallyswarmed over the Society. 1939. country, taking up homesteads and buying adjoining land. (3) A. P. (Ott) Black, "The End of the Long Horn Trail." Most of the ranches liquidated their holdings and moved to Selfridge Journal Selfridge, N.D.

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14 The History Of Our Prairies

Perhaps even more interesting than the history of Hettinger The availability of a fuel supply was of uppermost im­ County as a political unit, although infinitely further removed, portance to the homesteader. This proved to be no problem to is the history of its landscape. When homesteaders from those coming to Hettinger County, since lignite coal was to be eastern states came into this fresh, new region they were in had for about $1.00 per ton within hauling distance. Many reality coming into an old one - older even than North Dakota found it on their own land, whereas others had enough ac­ east of the Missouri River by many thousands of years. The cessible to mine on a larger scale for profit. great ice sheet which moved down from the north covering a The history of the formation of coal is closely tied in with large part of the continent including North Dakota - all of that of the landscape. To understand its origin we must go North Dakota, that is, except the southwest corner on this side back to the Cretaceous Era when an arm of the sea reached up of the Missouri River. Our surface is the same as it was before into the continent and the surface of North Dakota was the Ice Age, except for whatever erosion has taken place. (1) beneath sea level. The sea was shallow and the crust of the But the history of Hettinger County, as well as the rest of earth slowly rose and sank alternately over long periods of state, goes back muchfarther than that. The Gulf of Mexico -time. When the region rose the waters withdrew and mud at at that early time, extended up the Mississippi Valley forming the bottom became soil in which great forests grew. At a time an inland sea covering North Dakota along with several other when the land and sea were at about the same level states. Sediment washing into the shallow sea from the depressions in the surface were very swampy and favored the surrounding land spread over the bottom as mud and became growth of thick vegatation and huge trees of many varieties, layers of shale and sandstone, now the bedrock of our North some of which were similar to the great sequoias. Dakota landscape. This is known as the Dakota Sandstone Although the trees continued to grow, the accumulation of formation, and is the lower part of the Cretaceous system dead trees and vegetation reached considerable depths over formed in the Age of Reptiles. the long period of time when the surface sank very slowly. Eventually when the sea crept in and covered the region Changes since that time were stupendous and somewhat again, soil from surrounding land eroded and covered the difficult to comprehend since it involved such a great length of accumulation of vegatable matter. Wood being entombed time. Present day features show some of the results. For under the water and mud, shut away from air did not decay. example, the tops of Black Butte north of Regent, the Tepee Under these conditions along with the pressure of the water Buttes, Whet-stone Buttes, and Wolf Butte, all in unorganized and mud, and the heat from within the earth, the vegetation Hettinger County, and many others, are all patches of a for­ was transformed into coal. mer base level plain produced by long, continued wearing of the surface. There are many types of coal depending on the stage of transformation, and the condition under which it was formed. The Missouri Plateau was then uplifted and is in the process Peat is one of the early stages and lignite the next; bituminous of becoming a second base level resulting from the wearing and anthracite, follow in succession. away of the land. Because the buttes were protected by harder North Dakota coal is thought to have been buried in rocks material, they have been left standing. Their tops are very during the Laramie formation which may be the transition likely the base level of a former one. between the Cretatious Era (Age of Reptiles) and the Tertiary Era (Age of Mammals) when conditions for gathering thick Our present landscape represents the second base level. The layers of vegetation were favorable. The Laramie formation work of the rivers in reducing it to a level plain has not yet in North Dakota is estimated to be about 1000 feet, in which been fully accomplished. In our county this work is being done there are several beds at various depths. by the Cannon Ball and its tributaries. The Cannon Ball is said to be a mature river. "A mature river has a wide valley; the One may ask how long ago the coal was formed. It is vigor of down-cutting is diminished; all the region intervening estimated that "the age of shales and sandstone and coal beds is carved into valley slopes; none of the upland surfaces are of North Dakota (is) nearly 3,000,000 years, and the time flat; the river swings from one side to the other side of its during which sea sediment that occur between the Dakota valley, thereby broadening rather than deepening it."(2) Sandstone and the Coal Measures, the Fort Benton, Niobra, Fort Pier and Fox Hill formations were being formed may "The Cannon Ball (is) — approaching old age. Only in hava been 1,000,000 years." (4) These figures are estimates isolated places does any of the old plateau surfaces remain. but will emphasize the fact that the time was long. The remnants are the hills with flat tops, the 'old buttes' of the Thus the history of the formation of coal is a long and region, the buttes that 'stand upon the shoulders of younger complicated one that cannot be told in a few words, but a story buttes'. They represent the fragments of the unfinished tasks of Hettinger County would not be complete without stopping to of maturity. For the most part the plateau surface has been consider but briefly what wonders have taken place beneath cut away and the hills lowered, or worn away altogether."(3) the surface to produce for us this valuable resource. The thoughts of the amount of erosion that takes place are (DSource of material: D.E.Willard, Story of the Prairies, V, staggering. Were we to think of, say for instance, the region on VII, IIXXX, XX, XXI, XXII. this side of the Missouri as being filled with water until it covers the highest buttes, that water would represent the (DA glacier may have covered our region at an infinitely amount of the landscape that has been eroded away. earlier time. Slowly but surely, the process of weathering and erosion (2)Daniel E. Willard, The Story of the Prairies, (1907-1923) goes on. The passage of time brings about great changes. The XXII, 246 present landscape of our Hettinger County is but temporary in (3) Ibid. the long process of change. (4) Ibid. 15 Historians of the past have stated vaguely that "Mott the The Naming Of Hettinger County Spot" was named in honor of a railroad official, which was one of the reasons the town was made the terminus of the branch We have already traced the development of Hettinger line of the N.P. from Mandan. However, the real facts of the County as a political unit from the days of exploration to the case were recently given this writer by Mrs. Elmer May, organization as a county in 1907, but have made no mention as Fargo, who was well acquainted with Mr. Brown. She knows to the origin of its name. that the town was named in honor of her sister, Miss Lillian Mott. Before statehood the territorial legislature met at Yankton, then the capital of Dakota territory in what is now South Miss Mott was the very efficient secretary to the well known Dakota. As the county was in the process of being settled, it land man, whose slogan, "Out They Go to New Lands," ap­ became necessary for the legislature to create new counties. peared in advertisements in newspapers over a considerable These, however, were merely federal political units without portion of the Dakotas a quarter of a century ago. Miss Mott governmental setup. lived in the Brown home, at White Bear, Minn. She was with In 1883, during the meeting of the last territorial legislature the real estate firm when it was located at Pierre, S.D. , when to meet at Yankton, the question came before the house there was a big land movement there. Later when Brown was regarding the formation of a county out of the 60 congressional associated with I.N. Walker and the land office she was at townships directly south of Stark County which had previously Devils Lake, and Miss Mott was familiar with every detail of for judicial purposes been a part of that county. the big colonization and land settlement in Hettinger County in Erasmus A. Williams, a legislator, had been instrumental in 1906 and future years. E. H. Yonaka of Mott is in charge oi having Burleigh County named in honor of his friend Dr. Wm. the land office of the Wm. H. Brown Co. of Mott. A. Burleigh and was now given the privilege of naming the Hundreds of farmers in eastern Hettinger County were new county. His wife was the daughter of Mathias Hettinger of placed upon their farms by the Wm H. Brown Land Co., which Freeport, Illinois. When he offered the name of Hettinger, his had offices in Chicago during the years of the big immigration choice was approved and it became the name of the new and land settlement. county. Before it could be thrown open for settlement, land had first Brown named Mott for the secretary who looked after his to be surveyed and divided into congressional townships. business affairs so efficiently through the years. Work began on land nearest the railroad; consequently, many The slogan, "Mott, the Spot" originated on a baseball trip years elapsed before Hettinger County was surveyed to become ready for settlers to move in. It was during this time from Mott to Dickinson. It was on the ball field a quarter of a that the area was occupied by ranchers. .century ago that former Postmaster Frank Bonesho, County Auditor Rob't. D. Beery and States Attorney Geo. H. Stone and When the time came for organization, the northern part of other Mott boosters, told the world, "Mott, Mott - Mott's the the county was relatively well settled compared with the Spot, that's What." Wellington Irysh, then publisher of the southern part. Therefore the northern settlers expected to Mott Pioneer Press, did much to popularize the slogan, which have the county seat located in their area. Since the gained national notoriety when.an article in the Saturday Milwaukee Railroad was to be built along the southern border, Evening Post, called this one of the most catchy town slogans and no immediate prospect of a railroad being built through in the country. the northern part, the settlers to the south felt that the county seat should be along the Milwaukee line. Thus a stalemate Later, it was «New England partisans, engaged in bitter arose, but was eventually resolved by accepting division as a baseball warfare with the rival metropolis, who added a line to solution. the popular slogan, which often repeated put "salt in the ice People of both parts of the county were attached to the name cream" for the Mott rooters. of Hettinger and neither side wished to give in to the other. A "Mott's the Spot that God Forgot", as a cry spoiled a lot of compromise finally resulted in the northern part's retaining enthusiasm for the original snappy slogan, but the original the old name, with Mott as the county seat, and the county seat "White City" of Mott has carried on very successfully through of Adams' keeping the name of Hettinger. the years, generally acknowledged as one of the best business In earlier days, one might have heard the name Hettinger centers, one of the live communities on the Missouri Slope, pronounced in two ways. For quite some tjme the pronun­ and likely one of the reasons for the progress of the city was ciation of the town was Het-tyjg-er, whereas that of the county that Wm. H. Brown, founder of the town, decided to honor a was Het-tin-ger. The old pronunciation for the name of the faithful secretary, Miss Lillian Mott, by naming the town for county seems to have fallen into disuse, although some old her. timers still hold to the old form. "Mott's the Spot" Wm. H. Brown selected on the prairie, which he made the county seat of Hettinger County in 1907. BROWN Named—The Spot—For Secretary Brown built two towns on the open prairie, and the Northern (Hettinger County Herald -1936) Pacific built a branch line to connect his two towns closely with the state capital. It is reported that depression years And now we know where "Mott, the Spot" got its name. have not dealt too kindly with Mr. Brown, but future writers Wm. H. Brown, the land man, who founded Mott, county will give him a large place in history for the part he played in seat of Hettinger County, and Flasher in Morton County, and the early development of the Missouri Slope country. later saw the Northern Pacific branch line built into both his towns, named the town of Mott in honor of his private It is sufficient to say Brown named Mott in honor of his secretary, Miss Lillian Mott, now Mrs. C.L. Cummings, 815 secretary, Miss Lillian Mott, to place his name in history for James Ave., Minneapolis, Minn. all time. 16 The Opening Of The Last Frontier

Hettinger, Adams, and Bowman became the last of the Ashby, Alden, Indian Creek, and Kern were completed in counties to be organized. Surveying began in unorganized July of 1899; and Merrill August 22,1899. These were approved Hettinger County in the year 1888. The work was done October 11, 1899. Finally Baer, was surveyed in July of 1901 piecemeal, so the following dates given apply to the month in and approved February 24,1902, the last of the townships now which the surveying had been completed. in Hettinger County to be completed. (1) Hettinger County was now opsn for settlement and was New England and Kunze townships were each completed by brought to the attention of homeseekers. The railroads, June of 1888 and approved by the surveyor general in October newspapers, and the commissioner of agriculture carried on of 1888. Four years later Odessa Township was surveyed May advertising campaigns but most of the promotion and 23, 1892 and approved October 14, 1892. Walker Precinct, colonization was done by Wm. H. Brown Co., Inc. after their Solon, and Cannon Ball followed in August and approved land office was opened in Mandan in 1901. November 9, 1892. The same year Acme, Highland and St. In 1902, Mr. Brown opened his principal office for general Croix were completed in August; and Campbell, Madison, real estate business and immigration purposes on LaSalle Black Butte, and Rifle, in September. These were approved Street in Chicago where he maintained an office for 30 years. December 30, 1892. Wagendorf, Tepee Butte, Kennedy, and He had extensive land holdings in Hettinger County and later Strehlow, followed in October, but were not approved until set up a rental service. Eventually, many renters were able to January 18, 1893. purchase the land they rented. Mr. Brown carried on an active Then in July of 1894, Mott, Castle Rock, Steiner, and Brittian, campaign to help prospective homesteaders locate. the surveying had been completed. Chilton, Farina, and Beery (1) From original land survey maps on file at the State followed in August. All were approved December 7,1894. Water Commission at Bismarck, North Dakota.

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17 "The Mott Supply Company store was established by the Early Mott Wm. H. Brown Company and the first manager was Miss Caroline Willcox, who was also appointed the first postmaster In 1903, Mr. Brown founded and platted townsites and of Mott. In September, 1905 Frank I. .Bonesho and Arnold established land offices at Mott and Haynes, both at that time Bannon who had come out from Wisconsin and homesteaded in unorganized Hettinger County. Some thought he selected near Mott, formed a partnership and bought the store and Mr. the site in Mott on account of the drainage; some thought it Bonesho was appointed postmaster shortly afterward. This was because of the peculiar quality of the gumbo mud to be partnership continued until early in the spring of 1907, when a found after each rain; and still others thought it was because firm composed of W. J. Glenny, R. T. Thorp and John the land was unfit for anything else. Bassford bought the store. Some time after this Mr. Glenny Building begain in 1904, probably by a crew of carpenters acquired the interests of Messrs. Thorp and Bassford and from Mandan hired by the Wm. H. Brown Company. The first formed the present corporation. This store had gradually of the buildings was Hotel Brown, a small frame building grown under the managements until at the present time it is about 24' x 40' on the site of the present hotel now known as the considered one of the best stocked and equipped stores in the Holiday House; also a hotel barn, which was sold to Eugene Slope country. Starks and his father. In the fall of 1905, he built the first 25' "The old black smith shop was probably established by Mr. front of the Mott Supply. This was a 1% story building 40' long Stanley, who lived at Richardton and who drove the first stage and stood on the site of the present store by that name. line that was established between Richardton and Mott. Or At this time a blacksmith shop, later operated by Ed. , Brown Co. may have built it and sold it to Mr. Stanley. Since Weinberger, was erected; and the old livery stable, later that time it has passed through many hands, viz. Allen Bar- occupied by Lacy Roberts Dray Company. South of the livery tels, Frank Ehredt, Fritz Nelson, Charles Johnson, Claries stable was a small frame building about 8' x 10' on the bank of Higgins, Wm. Hendricks, and is now owned and operated by the river that was generally known as the "Blind Pig". A. M. Ed Weinberger. Jackson's shop was later located on that site. That was about the extent of the building in 1905. "Some time during the summer of 1906, Rev. D. P. Abbey, In 1906 or 1907, the next building erected by Brown Company who had emigrated to Hettinger Country from Iowa and had after the Mott Supply was an office building on the site west of taken up a homestead 6'/2 miles north of Mott on the Richard­ the present Commercial Bank of Mott building, which was ton- road and who had been publishing a small weekly later sold to the First National Bank and occupied by it until Newspaper, in Mott. This was the first publication printed in the new building was erected. Then came Brown Company's Mott and serving to help new settlers get acquainted with their Office Building that was occupied by Braun as a Drug Store. neighbors and to unite them into a community in a social and Mr. Brown established the Mott Pioneer Press in 1906 or economic way. Reverend Abbey also had the distinction of 1907, and sold it to Sam Small of Mandan who never lived in being the first minister of the Gospel to settle in the Mott Mott. Another building was erected by Mr. Brown east of the territory and was the first to preach the Gospel in Mott. The old courthouse. It was used for the first school, since the Hettinger County Dynamo was sold a few months later and the unorganized county could make no provision for one; and later name changed (early in the spring of 1907) to the Mott Pioneer used for church services; then housed the first Hettinger Press and the management assumed by Mr. G.L. Hurd. Mr. County Government, and finally moved to Brown Avenue and Hurd remained but a short time, as he was appointed in April sold to the Mott Pioneer Press. The Acklin house and the Dr. to be the the first Auditor of Adams County, and left shortly Maercklein house were both built in 1907. after that to assume his duties at the new town of Hettinger which was just being laid out at that time. The Press had a In 1928, Mr. S.J. Boyd of the Wm. H. Brown Co. made the somewhat precarious existence from that time until about the following observations in regard to early Mott buildings: middle of the summer. Wm. H. Brown Company being part "The Hotel Brown was built by Wm H. Brown Company to owners of the press and equipment assumed the accommodate the land seekers which they were inducing to management and editorial work, through its various em­ come out from older states and take homesteads and help ployees Slosson, Kelly, Enslow, Boyd, Aunger, and Rhames, build up the new country. As this was quite romantic and as a all contributing a little and Beth Decker setting the type and great many seemed to have the pioneer spirit, it was quite a bossing the whole job, the paper usually came out on schedule usual thing for the hotel to be crowded to the utmost at meal time and the least said about its contents the better. All hands time and at night, extra beds being made down on the floor of were glad when Wellington Irysh arrived on the scene about the office and hall on many occasions. One of the first cooks at the middle of July, 1907 with a Bill of Sale of the whole outfit in the Hotel Brown was Mrs. Wm. Hendricks, who is still known his pocket and proceeded to take over the management. Mr. as one of Mott's very best cooks. At various, Irysh proved to be an excellent newspaper man and gave us a times the hotel has been enlarged, especially in 1907 and again mighty good paper while he was here. He was optimistic at all in 1910 when it was rebuilt and fitted up as it appears today. times and was usually found to be boosting the country The first manager was Mr. Maurice Willcox who came from through the columns of his paper." (1) Illinois. His sister, Miss Caroline Willcox had taken up a homestead three miles south of where the school house now Originally, Mainstred in Mott sloped toward the river. Mr. stands. Some time later she assumed the management of the Brown later had it excavated to its present level, resulting in Mott Supply Co. Store and Sherman Stanfield, who the walls of basements of some buildings, such as Hotel homesteaded a half mile north of the court house, took charge, Brown, being exposed and the buildings with high foundations (of the hotel) Managers since that time have been: W. J. lower down, such as the Mott Supply, being brought to ground Steer, Pete Washer, Fred Davis, Moser & Ray, Peter Wick, level. The hill was taken down 10 feet and the dirt filled in at Mr. Tharieau, and Mr. Serr. It has long been known and considered by the travelling public as one of the best hotels in (1) Brown Collection, North Dakota State Historical Society, the Missouri Slope country. Bismarck, North Dakota 18 the bottom. Early residents will well remember the clouds of Mr. Sam Boyd, stenographer for Wm. H. Brown, in writing dust that filled the air when the south wind swept up the about the Mott area in 1928 gave the following information: street, particularly during celebrations when traffic stirred up "The winter of 1905 - 6 was unusually severe, the first snow the loose soil. arriving early in October and every week or so adding a little until Thanksgiving it was quite deep and the weather very Mott was the scene of marked activity as a result of Mr. Brown's enthusiasm and direction, with carpenters, masons, cold. December and January were very cold months. A thaw painter, and sign painters, etc. all bustling about came in February but the bulk of snow did not go off until the their work. first part of April. Some of the great drifts when they had settled enough revealed herds of cattle that had perished in Mr. Brown was a great promoter, using catch phrases to one of the blizzards of the winter. One of these was to be seen attract attention and boost the town. "Mott's the Spot, That's about nine miles north of Mott about the first of April, 1906, what!" the main slogan was known far and wide. Another, and it was an odd sight to see the backs of the cattle emerging "Don't get 'hot' Because you're not 'In it' Come to Mott And from the snow banks, some of them in an almost upright Buy a lot This minute." Still another - position. (1) There had been good sleighing all winter, from "Lots of drops of water, October to April 1st, over the greater part of the territory lying Lots of warm sunlight; between Mott and Richardton. Lots of sacks of 'dollar wheat' "The most of the homestead land had been taken in the Lots of faces bright. vicinity of Mott by the end of 1905. A few of the original Mott's the Spot-we know it! homesteaders had gone away and for various reasons found it Lots of lots in Mott impossible to return in time to establish their claim and had Mott's lots are good as 'dollar wheat'" forfeited their claim to the land and these were eventually Urging people to paint their homes and business places taken by others during the years that followed. Some quarter white so the town could be called the "White City" was sections were thus left open to as late a date at 1907. another innovation to build up interest and pride amongst the "Richardton, on the main line of the Northern Pacific, 36 townspeople. miles north was the nearest railroad point. Several homes in An early map of Hettinger, Adams, and part of Stark the region between Richardton and Mott had been thrown counties put out by the Wm. H. Brown Co., who owned the open to the traveling public for eating and lodging and the plate from which it was printed, was secured 60 years ago by feeding of teams. There were no automobiles until about 1908 C. E. Bern. In the margin are bits of advertising phrases and in Mott. The trip by team was made on various schedules, slogans printed alternately in black and red, such as: varying from 4 to 5 hours for the best driving teams up to a day "Out They Go to Mott's the Spot, the White City on the or a day and a half for the slow moving freight wagons. What Cannon Ball River in Southwestern North Dakota" is now known as the Gallagher place on Heart River, then "Mott's the County Seat of Hettinger County, the Heart of a occupied by J.K. Boyd; the Kilzer farm 16 miles south of Fertile Farming District and the Great Central Market." Richardton, then occupied by Tom Walker; the Wm. Colgrove "Mott Needs You and More Good Business Men." ranch 18 miles south of Richardton; and the John Willkom, Sr. "Come out to Mott, North Dakota and See the Great Big home five miles north of Mott were some of the places where Opportunities to Make Money." meals and lodging could be obtained. "Mott is on the New Northern Pacific, and Chicago "A number of immigrants arrived in the fall of 1905, but the Milwaukee and Puget Sound Railroads." main volume of the immigration did not begin until early in "Good Real Estate is the Foundation of All." 1906. For a shortiime during April and the early part of May "The Home Owner is the Real Patriot." the roads were passable, although the snow had not gone off "It's Cheaper to Buy a Farm Here than to Rent." until the first part of April after having covered the ground "When in Mott Register Your Name in Hotel Brown." continuously since the middle of October 1905. The roads were "This Country is being Settled with the Best Farmers." ungraded the most of the way from the Heart river south and "Come out to Mott, North Dakqgka Now, and You will be were principally rough prairie trails winding around the hills Convinced it is the Place for You." and buttes and through the valleys keeping a generally north and south direction. About the middle Of May, 1906 the weather "Haynes has Four Coal Mines a;id Good Farming Land turned cold and cloudy and rain fell during every day from Near by for Sale at Bargain Prices." that time until June 10th with the result that the roads became "Have Offices at impassible and many families had great difficulty in arriving Mott North Dakota at their new homes. Likewise they began somewhat to doubt Haynes North Dakota the stories they had heard of the dry semi-arid country they Mandan North Dakota were coming to. It rained, rained, rained and the lower and Or Corner flatter lands were under water for weeks. The mile stretch Madison & LaSalle Streets —Chicago, Illinois. from Cuddahees corner north to David Helm's place was all "Please Write Us and Come in and See Us." under water at one time and belly deep to a horse in some (This was followed by the familiar signature found on all places. The new settlers were unable to get much breaking signs and advertising, and somewhat smaller on letterheads.) done and what they did was mostly done in the rain or after "are Owners of this Map Plate, and have the Sale of Choice June 10th. One incident of the bad roads occurred on the hill Wheat Lands and are the Townsite Agents of Mott, Odessa, near the Gallagher place south of Heart river which was about Haynes, and Flasher." the worst place on the whole road that spring. An ex-railroad Mr. Brown sold out later to Mr. E. H. Yonaka who was in charge of the company's office at Haynes from 1908 to 1910, (l)Mr. Ray Conklin, Manager for Wm. H. Brown Co., reported and later became president of the company and finally the the loss of cattle referred to was in a late blizzard in the spring owner. Mr. Yonaka attributed much of the progress of the of 1904, instead of 1905. (Brown Collection) North Dakota State community to Mr. Brown. Historical Society, Bismarck, North Dakota. 19 North Dakota State Uimj .1 n r n c >"\ • man was hauling out a high load of lumber when his team Judge, acting as inspector. No more than nineteen votes had stalled on the hill and a party of men who had stayed at the been cast before Sheriff Hartung of Stark County served an Gallagher place that night before went up to help him get injunction on the election officials and stopped the voting. The through. After they had shoveled out and got the mud off the returns were then canvassed and sent in along with the ballot wheels one of the men spoke to the ex-brakeman and said, box to the county commissioners of Stark County, who in turn 'Now, get right up on that load and start your team and we were served with an injunction restraining them from going will push'. The ex-railroader looked up at the high load and about their work of issuing election certificates. Thus the said, T couldn't dp it, Mister. If that was a box car I would not attempts of the first mass meeting came to naught. Opposition hesitate but I can't on a thing like that.' He had walked had come from ranchers who did not want the country settled beside the load to that point and continued to do so until he up, and by politicians from Stark County who wanted the arrived at his homestead. territory annexed to their county. Their claim was that there "Many of the first settlers in the Mott territory have longed was no law under which a county could organize. to again see a year like 1906 was but there has probably never The Legislative Assembly of 1907, passed a law providing been so much rain in any one season since that. The sad part of for organization of an unorganized county. Under this law the it was, that they were unable to get in much crop so did not governor upon satisfactory petition of settlers of the profit greatly by the moisture except that it made a wonderful unorganized county was authorized to issue a proclamation crop of prairie hay and when haying time came every farmer declaring the county organized, designating the temporary turned in and made a lot of hay. county seat, and appointing the first county officials. "During the summer and fall of 1906 the road from Early in April of 1907, the petitions were made ready, Richardton to Mott was lined with teams going in both naming the county seat, providing for division of territory in directions and it presented a busy scene indeed. In driving the shape that it is at the present ti ^ie, and naming the county from Mott to Richardton it would not be unusual to meet 50 or officers who had been decided upon previously. It so happened 60 loads of household movables coming into the Mott territory. that many of these men who ran for office in the 1906 election Everyone was full of hope and enthusiasm. Money appeared to were listed. be plentiful and flowed freely and fast, especially outward. In arranging for circulating the petitions, one man was Everything had to be bought that went into the improvements assigned to each township. Difficult as traveling was in those on the new farms. No one had much vegetables or fruit and all days by team and buggy, or horseback, the work was ac­ of the necessities of life had to be purchased at the stores. complished in plenty of time, and the petitions were submitted Some homesteads had a few scrubby bushes that could be used to the governor. At the same time, another set of petitions was as fence posts, not very many. It was a most interesting thing circulated in the western part of the county, designating New to see day by day new buildings going up in every direction. England as the county seat, and a list of men to be appointed They were small, the most of them, it is true, but were to as county officers. represent some home and 'Be it ever so humble, there's no place like home'. There will not be many more opportunities in Ray Conklin gave more information on the subject when he this great land of ours to witness a similar sight as that seen wrote: here in 1905 and 1906, the building of an entire community, "There was strong opposition in the State Legislature to the farms and villages, as the most of Uncle Sam's free making of a law under which unorganized territory could be homestead land has already been claimed and pioneering has organized. The unorganized territory had no representation, become a thing of history throughout the land." (1) and the representatives of the organized counties were working for a bill that would provide for the annexing to their county any unorganized adjoining territory. Had it not been (1) Brown Collection, North Dakota State Historical Society, for the loyal support of the Hon. John Burke, then Governor, Bismarck, North Dakota. Hettinger County never would have been organized. At least according to the present boundary line. "The Bill under which the territory was organized was Steps Toward Organization passed with an emergency clause making the law effective within 30 or 60 days. After this bill had been passed, those Early settlers were aware of the need for county opposed to the organization of unorganized territory remained organization. Without local government they were powerless on the job and succeeded in passing a bill which provided for to provide schools for their children. In a few instances, the annexation of unorganized territory to organized territory private schools were set up by private subscription, but this with an emergency clause which would make it a law was done only as a temporary measure. The number of something like 30 days before the bill providing for the children was rapidly increasing due to the rapid influx of organizing of unorganized territory would become a law, and homesteaders, and schools would have to be provided. Roads under the provisions of the Bill the matter of annexation was a and bridges were further necessities. The problem was how to matter to be decided upon by the Commissioners of the ad­ attack the situation, because there was no law under which an joining organized territory. unorganized county could organize. "The Governor saw the point and signed the first bill, A mass meeting was held the later part of 1905 in the vetoing the second one. In determining the boundary line Emanual Barth Sheep shed south of the Cannon Ball river at designating the County Seat, and appointing the first County Mott, to make plans. In 1928, Ray Conklin, Manager for Wm. Officers, the Governor acted in accordance with the wishes of H. Brown Company, recalled that Paul Bohn Sr. acted as the people as expressed by petitions presented to him." (1) chairman, and Fulton Burnett from Dickinson was called in as The proclamation as given by Governor Burke on April 17, legal advisor. Among others in attendance were Os Chase, Ed 1907 is given on the following page. The county officers ap­ Barry, Chas. Merry, as well as he himself, Ray Conklin. pointed were: Arrangements were made to have an election. The election was held in January of 1906, with the polls (1) Brown Collection, North Dakota State Historical Society, located in the Mott Supply Store, with Mr. Crawford of Bismarck, North Dakota 20 County Commissioners- Chas. Aunger, Geo. W. Bysom, We have the following written by M. Sam Boyd: Gustaf Grosz; "Some time in April or May a meeting was called and duly County Auditor- Robert D. Beery; Sheriff- Henry Barry; held for the purpose of laying plans for organizing a school County Treasurer- Jacob Barth, Jr.; Clerk of Court- Geo. district and holding an election of school officers. At the school Lewis Ross; election in June the following school officers were elected: Register of Deeds- W.B. Morris; Judge of Probate-Fred S. Paul Bohn, Director Dewey; John C. Schleicher, Director Coroner-Dr. Geo. W. Mauzey; Supt of Schools- Prof. Her- O.S. Chase, Director schel James; David Jones, Treasurer Public A.M. Bannon; Justice of the Peace- S. J. Boyd was chosen as Clerk of the School district, which John G. Willkom, Wm. Colgrove, L.S. Robertson, Presley comprised four townships with Mott in nearly the center, the same as the present district. (1828) Switzer; Constables- L.N. Starks, Wm. Armitage, W.S. En- Plans and specifications were prepared for school houses sley, W.T. Batty. and at a special meeting held early in June it was moved to erect eight school houses at various points in the district and STATE OF NORTH DAKOTA bids were called for. The contract for the eight buildings was Executive Department let to Mr. J. A. Ulberg who immediately proceeded to start the work and before time for the opening of school in the fall of PROCLAMATION 1907, the buildings were all ready and teachers had been ap­ Whereas, a petition has been duly filed in this office, signed by pointed. more than 150 petitioners, asking for the organization of a new "At one one of the school meetings the question arose as to county out of unorganized territory, to be known as the county when and how a high school could be arranged for when the Hettinger, and beginning at the NE corner of township 136 of time should come. Mr. Paul Bohn, Sr. who was one of the range 91, thence running due west to the NW corner of directors at that time, said, 'Oh, we have got that figured out. township 136 of range 97, thence south to the SW corner of We'll just build a school house up on top of Brophy's Hill and township 133 of range 97, thence east to the NW corner of that will be high enough.' (Brophy's Hill was five and a half township 132 of range 94, thence south to the SW corner of miles north«of Mott.) (1) township 132 of range 94, thence east to the SE corner of "The first meeting of the board of commissioners took place township 132 of range 91, thence north to the NE corner of April 19,1907, with all members present. On motion of Bysom, township 132 of range 91, thence west to the SE corner of Aunger was elected chairman. The proceedings of the first township 133 of range 91, thence north along the township line meeting were brief. Beery's bond was accepted, the sheriff's to the point of beginning, - these boundaries including the bond was fixed at $10,000 and the Pioneer Press was made the following described townships, townships 132, Ranges 91, 92, official paper of the county. At a meeting the next day 93 and 94; townships 133, Ranges 91, 982 , 983, 94, 95 96, and 97; arrangements were made for purchasing supplies and Hans townships 134 Ranges 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 96 and 97; townships P. Jacobson was appointed as a committee to visit Stark, 135, Ranges 91, 92, 93, 94, 95 96, and 97; townships 136 Ranges Burleigh, and Morton ccunjies to examine the record books of 91,92,93, 94,95,96, and 97; townships 136, Ranges 91, 92, 93, 94, those counties and ascertain what books were needed here. He 95,96, and 97; And, it further appearing from said petition that was also instructed to" find out if the new county had any there was more than 1000 inhabitants in said county, and it money coming from Stark. Before organization Hettinger being provided therein that the temporary county seat be County had been affiliated for judicial and certain ad­ located at Mott, in said county, on the east half of section 35, ministrative purposes to Stark County. That is why there was township 134, range 93, and it appearing that the greatest some opposition there to the creation of the new county." (2) number of bona fida residents of such territory have designated by petition the said village of Mott for said' tem­ porary county seat, and being satisfied that the said territory has more than 1000 bona fida inhabitants, and that the said (1) Brown Collection, North Dakota State Historical Society, Bismarck, North Dakota. boundaries of such proposed county congressional township lines and natural boundaries have been observed as nearly as (2) Mott Pioneer Press, September 4. 1947. may be, and that the law in relation to the organization of new counties out of unorganized territory has been followed. Therefore, I, John Burke, Governor of the State of Nor­ th Dakota, by virtue of the power and authority in me vested by law, do hereby grant the petition for the organization of lAMMNMil CONCRETIONS such new county, to be known as the county of Hettinger, as petitioned for in said petition, and I do hereby designate and Thesespecfocularballs of sandstone developed around frag- locate the temporary county seat at Mott, in the east half of, f of leaves or twigs when calcium carbonate and iron oxide section 35, township 134, range 93, in the said county of Het­ tntrated layer on layer. They did this by the concretion pro- tinger, and as petitioned by law. when l+ie mineral matter in the ground water was deposited herical masses as part of the rock Formation. Given under my hand and the Great seal of the capital at As the softer surrounding material weathers away, the Bismarck, this 17th day of April, A.D. 1907. spheres emerge and remain on the surface. They reminded the John Burke •atty explorers of "CANNONBALLS", which served to name the Cannonball geological formation and the Cannonball River that flows through it. • By the Governor; By C.W. LaMoure Deputy 21 Early Photos . . . Courtesy Mrs. Edna Kjos

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23 Articles From Various Sources BIRTHS, MARRIAGES+ Births Articles found in early magazines and newspapers give in­ Born- formational facts with which we are more or less familiar. To the state of North Dakota at the State Capital in Bismarck, However, being written at the time when Hettinger County Tuesday, April 17, 1907. was being opened for settlement and homeseekers were A DAUGHTER OF THE COMMONWEALTH rushing in to occupy the land, first-hand writings of that time give us a far more graphic picture of the spirit of the people Named Hettinger, Christened at once, and young Virility than could be accomplished by paraphrasing and in­ Mott appointed her legal guardian, to sue and be sued in her terpretation. name, to guard her eminent domain and aid in launching her We can but call attention to the enthusiasm that pervades on a career of morality, progress, development and those writings. Statements seem to be exaggerated and prosperity. boastful, but they reflect the general attitude of the people as (New York, Chicago, London, , Berlin, Vienna, a whole. Homesteaders and young business men alike, were so Christiania, and Stockholm papers please copy). full of hope while they went about establishing this new com­ monwealth as to bubble over with enthusiasm. Conversation CONGRATULATIONS on all sides among all people, generally was of this same The fruition of the fond hopes of the citizens of Hettinger is temper. In fact, it rubbed off on the children who couldn't told in another column. Hettinger arrayed like a bride in understand why they were being chided for exaggerating and spring emerges into real life amid the congratulations and being boastful about things that pertained to their small prophesies of a career full of the harvest of good things. The world. They didn't realize that grown-ups' exaggerations were teeming soil seems to smile in gladness as the bells peal forth not intended to be taken literally, but merely to voice their the message to the world. Hettinger, youngest sister of the exuberance over the seeming possibilities the country ap­ galaxy of commonwealth within the greater commonwealth, salutes her sons and daughters with joy that cannot be ex­ peared to offer. pressed in words, "The fairest county in the state" her In order to give people of more sophisticated times a children exclaim, "and we will preserve her fame im­ glimpse into the early days of settlement, we are including in maculate." The farmer gaily sings as he speeds the plow the following pages from time to time, some of the writings across her fertile prairies; the housewife whispers between found in sources not conveniently at hand, or readily ac­ the lullabys to the babe in arms that a new era opens for papa, cessible for reading. mamma and the crowing heir. Cheered by the knowledge of the stability of local conditions the newly arriving settlers feel their hearts expanding as they look across these broad acres that shall assure them a competence. Church and Selection from the First Issue of schools will arise; the beneficent machinery of the law for the the Mott Pioneer Press protection of even the most humble denizen of this fair land March 9,1907 will run on smoothly through the coming years, and Mott the county town, expanding its wings will realize its dignity and The town of Mott is a strong candidate for the county seat of the wonderful possibilities of its being, and from the prairie Hettinger County. whose virgin acres are now caressed by the waters of the Hettinger county soil is the richest in North Dakota. It has Cannon Ball a City Beautiful will arise. innumerable streams and living springs of pure water, and The citizens of Hettinger have worked and waited in coal enough cropping out of the banks of the Cannon Ball river, patience for the consummation now so happily attained, and which runs through the county, to supply the needs of the they are content. Hettinger is the present land of promise. It people for hundreds of years. This fuel can be had for the will hereafter be the land of performance. Just watch Het­ digging. That Hettinger county will be among the wealthiest in tinger. the state everybody admits who knows anything about its great wealth producing powers. Land is now cheap but it won't be low priced very long. The rush is coming; all the govern­ MORTON'S WELCOME TO THE NEW COUNTY ment land will soon be taken, then up goes the price. Come to Hettinger county now and get in on the ground floor. The Preliminary Work for the Organization Complete and As the Pioneer Press was about to close its forms, word was a Large Majority Want Mott the County Seat. received that six families from Morrill, Kansas, had started (Mandan Daily Pioneer-April 12,1907) for Hettinger county. They left on the 5th and are bringing their household goods with them. These families will locate in Our neighbors of Hettinger County are congratulating the vicinity of Mott. Another special car of homesteaders will themselves that the preliminaries to organize are completed. leave that point on April 2. It only remains for Governor John Burke to act on the over­ whelming majority petitions in favor of Mott to name this Send the Pioneer Press to your friends in the east and let ideal town the county seat of Hettinger, which he will do by the them learn of the golden opportunities in Hettinger county, time this reaches our readers. The county officers wil! be N.D. appointed and Hettinger, the latest to join the galaxy of North John G. Wilkom, one of the best known new settlers of the Dakota, takes her place as a fulfledged sister, ready to enter county, came here from Indiana two years ago last August on a career so potentially great in its possibilities that the and built a comfortable large sod house which he determined most flattering estimate of her future will hardly approximate should serve for several years or until his land should produce the reality. the money with which to build such a dwelling as he and his estimable wife would want for a permanent home. + Mott Pioneer Press, April 1907. 24 Just think of it for a moment. Here is a county unexcelled FAMOUS HETTINGER COUNTY AND MOTT GREETING anywhere in the United States in natural agricultural wealth. (Mandan Pioneer - April 19,1907) It originally consisted of 60 townships. As now it seems very probable it will have 32 townships or 737,280 acres of land The organization of Hettinger County is now an nearly every acre of which can be successfully cultivated. accomplished fact. The preliminaries are completed. An There is scarcely any waste land in Hettinger County. Even overwhelming majority of residents of Hettinger have signed the level plateaus of the hills are as fertile as the prairie land the petition which has been acted on by Governor John Burke at their bases. Every agricultural product that is raised in favorably. Thus our county enters the galaxy and begins a other parts of North Dakota is raised in Hettinger County and career that will evoke the wonder of all who keep track of with infinitely less labor than is required in some places. contemporary or future development. With all the resources Neither stones nor stumps stay the progress of the all possessed by her sister counties, Hettinger has something conquering plow. more than most counties. She has an unexcelled class of Much of Hettinger County is still virgin soil, but plowshares people, is blessed with abundant sunshine, accesible and has are even now being sharpened for the powerful fray that will such rich productive soil that the mind is staggered in trying end in all this grand area coming under the stay of the to estimate the wealth these great natural elements add to the husbandman. county. Hettinger need never fear a fuel famine nor, indeed, a Hettinger is also a county of fat stock and of horses, sheep food famine, for it is only necessary to dig a few feet beneath and hogs. And just to keep the pot boiling, there are un­ the surface to secure all the free coal we shall ever need, to numbered and innumerable millions of tons of coal just speed the plow across our fertile acres to secure physical beneath the earth's surface awaiting only the shovel of the sustenance. farmer. It is free. Dig, the coal is yours. Plow, the golden grain Our people are a lugged, healthy, self-respecting class of and dollars come. And almost better than all else combined is settlers. We are proud of them. They would be an honor to any a climate that builds up rugged people. And the sun shines. community, and for all the reasons we have enumerated, Could the heart and mind of man ask for more? Hettinger embarks on the sea of the future under favoring A favored county, indeed, is Hettinger. Its career begins winds. Who among us today can begin to prophesy what even under the most auspicious conditions. A class of desireable the first decade will bring forth? With a population of more w,ell-to-do settlers, is crowding into the county to occupy the than 4,000 souls to start with, what will the next ten years show land. The railroad, the telegraph and telephone will follow the •by way of increase? Will there be 40,000 people within our trail of these latter day Argonauts, and in a year or two at the borders in 1917? If we were to hazard a guess and call it 70,000 most the virginity of Hettinger will be remembered as sort of a would it be too far out of the way? We would be glad to have dream. Hettinger the virgin wedded to Progress will emerge some of our readers save this issue of the Pioneer Press and smiling as the mother of a sturdy civilization. She will recall the prophecy ten years hence. beautifully provide for her sons and daughters, add to the local Our county town of Mott is an infant now - but such a lusty wealth, and to the general wealth. All hail Hettinger! She youngster! He crows prophetically, too. "Ten years hence? he comes in bridal robes smiling to the feast bringing her dowry asks. "Watch me! I'm here to grow up with the country. You of health, wealth, fertility and happiness. Morton County don't notice any doctors around doping me with Mrs. Win- welcomes her younger sister to the banquet of good cheer that slow's soothing syrup, do you? I don't need it." is always ready for the people of North Dakota. Come right in Mott sprang into being because the time was ripe for the and sit at the head of the table and receive your rightful crown birth of such a town in such a superior locality. The as virgin queen of May. development of the county requires just such a town and MOTT A DESIRABLE PLACE FOR A HOME exactly on the site of Mott. Its sponsors realize the popular Mandan Daily Pioneer - April 12,1907) demand and have risen to meet it. Mott is no accident, but the Whatever of praise or welcome is written about Hettinger logical result of local conditions. It is the headquarters of County applies with equal force to Mott, the logical and official Hettinger County and the home of a virile, intelligent and guardian of the county's interests. Mott possesses an ideal progressive people. There will be little room and less welcome location and will grow rapidly. The Cannonball river in­ for the other kind. It will be a theatre of opportunity for the tersects the city where the railroads will center, and where the young man, so many different occupations and business op­ great warehouses and elevators will be located. Mainstreet, portunities call insistently right now for recognition in Mott extending north from the river will be the center of Mott's that we would be glad to see our friends respond to the call. commercial activities, the courthouse will occupy a com­ Business and professional men and artisans in nearly every manding site overlooking the city, and in the eastern part of craft will soon find ample means for the exercise of all their the city the homes of the well-to-do will rise in beauty to adorn faculties here. Mott is a crowing infant now, but just watch the the scene. little fat rascal tumble out of the cradle early in the present Mott is already instinct with the new birth. Slumbering in season and walk and take charge of things generally! There the quiet of the centuries it awakes at last to make and take its will be a good deal of building in Mott this year, and the car­ place in history. Its progress will be rapid hereafter. It cannot penters and masons and others will need places to live. In be otherwise as it has the country back of it and the people short, all the daily needs of civilization must be met in Mott, already in Mott are enterprising, typical, self-respecting and soon. If you are interested in bettering your condition, if Americans. They realize the future in store for this ex­ you are thinking of making a change, if you want to make your ceptional town and will aid in its development. Churches and home where there's a virility, movement, hustle all the time, schools and business blocks will arise. Homes will multiply in you would better run down to Mott and secure a piece of number and the spring and summer of 1907 will witness in­ mother earth and get to work and you will reap a reward in a creasingly busy activities in Mott. We gladly echo the wat­ short time. chword and slogan of this astonishing town, "Come to Mott Mott-That's What! and be one of us for Mott will soon become one of ­ Mott's the Spot! somest and best towns, the center of the activities of the best And Mott needs you! class of people." 25 INDICATES GROWTH AND PROSPERITY HETTINGER COUNTY IS STARTED: (Bismarck Tribune - April, 1907) MOTT IS COUNTY SEAT+ The organization of two new counties west of the Missouri Mott, N. D., April 15-To the Fargo Forum: river is an indication of the remarkable growth of the western" The preliminary work in connection with the organization of part of the state during the past few years, and is in accord Hettinger county is completed and a new star is added to the with the requirements of the inhabitants of that territory. It state flag. Hettinger county has joined the procession. Up to will give them the advantages of a county organization, of the present time Hettinger has boasted 60 townships, but it is school corporations, and a measure of self government to probable the county will be divided as the people living in the which they are entitled and which should be of benefit both southern part of the county objected in going so far away from to the people and the state. Abortive efforts have been made home as Mott, the new county seat, to transact their county here-to-fore to organize this territory but for various reasons business. Twenty-eight townships will probably be taken from the organization was delayed, perhaps to the time when the the southern part of Hettinger and another county, Adams, country and its development was best fitted for it. There is no will be formed therefrom. This will locate the county seat of question but these will make prosperous and wealthy cor­ Adams on the coast line of the CM. & St. P. Ry., which is now porations. They will have the advantage of the experience of being constructed. other counties, and will not have to undergo all of the privations and disadvantages of the organizers of older The proposed division will leave Hettinger proper with 32 counties in the state, which were formed when the country was townships, or 737,280 acres, nearly all of which is in the distinctly frontier and whose officers were forced to go ahead, agricultural area, available for farming, is rich soil, fertile, of in some instances faster than the development of the country gently undulated character, and will easily support 40,000 warranted. Thousands of settlers have gone into this territory people. It will in all probability be doing so by 1917. in the past few years. The Milwaukee road is building its There has been a big influx of settlers to Hettinger county western extension through the country, cutting through the since the first days of spring. The Great White Way, as the southern portion of what will be the new county of Adams. It main north and south, 66 foot highway has been happily will not be long before Hettinger county will have a railroad. named, shows a long string of immigrant wagons carrying the There is much fertile and valuable land in the region. Two new household effects of the new settlers to their recently acquired counties will mark the growing importance of the western part homes. They are fortunately a very desireable class of people, of the state, will dignify the heretofore unorganized territory, many of them quite well-to-do farmers from the central west, and it is believed the time is entirely ripe for their formation who animated by the electricity of a new country have come to into sovereign divisions of the state. grow up with it. Many of them are beyond middle age, but BROWN COMPANY ADVERTISING they don't look or act it, as they hustle along southward from Richardton to their new homes on the virgin acres of Het­ The following advertising is found in the April 28, 1907 issue tinger. of the Mott Pioneer Press: Candidates for the new county official positions are riding OUT THEY GO! the range with petitions seeking signers to endorse their MOTT'S THE SPOT claims. There is some competition of course but no friction or hard feeling. All the candidates for office are good material; Hettinger county, North Dakota is organized and Mott is the it's merely a question of personal pull with the 1,000 or more County seat; 67 school houses soon to be erected. If yqu Afe legal voters already settled in Hettinger. looking for a home or an investment here is an opportunity Mott will be the county seat. It is delightfully located on the right in the land of wheat, corn, flax, oats, barley, speltz, hay, Cannonball river, 36 miles south of Richardton, the nearest potatoes, cattle, sheep, and horses. Big crops, good water, railroad point. The N.P. is locating a branch line from Mandan good people, good government, free coal for the digging, good southwest through Mott and thence west until it strikes the churches, good schools. Buy some lots in Mott and they will CM. & St. Pcoast line in Bowman county. The latter road will make you rich. Choice sections of land can be had at $18 an also, in all probability, build north from the main line to Mott, acre on easy payment plan. Mott needs a 30 room hotel, it will and we may therefore expect to see things humming around pay 40 per cent on the investment. It needs a restaurant, a here this spring and present summer. Mott isn't much to look bakery, and another general store. We want reliable, at for a metropolis at this writing, but we've got a start and energetic business men and farmers to co-operate with us in will go to the front. We have a fair hotel, but it's only one third selling our lands. For maps and facts see Wm. H. Brown, the size it ought to be. People are sleeping in barns for lack of Company, Tacoma Bldg., Chicago, 111., Richardton or Mott, proper hotel accommodation. If someone with a few thousand North Dakota. dollars would come down here and put up such a hotel as we In another column in the same issue we read: need, it would pay the investor 40 percent. We need an ex­ FAMED WHEREVER KNOWN perienced hotel man with some money and the kind of sand Sun-Kissed Hettinger County, North Dakota that does things. If you know of such a man send him down. It Needs You And there all kinds of business openings. Carpenters and You Need the Opportunities Hettinger County Affords. masons will be in demand this summer. But we want a bigger County Organization Just Completed, Mott is the County Seat. hotel the first thing, and want it bad. And we intend to have it. We Own and Offer for Sale 85,000 acres of Selected lands in See Mott grow. Hettinger Co. More than 4,000 new settlers already located and JohnB. Slosson more coming on every train. It is the county of opportunity, the county of Free Fuel, Pure Water, Fertile and Productive +Mott Pioneer Press Apr. 1907 Soil. Sunshine and unexcelled climate. 26 ACQUIRE FREE LAND IN HETTINGER COUNTY

The national government held title to the.lands in the Public Domain, but after it was surveyed land was granted to states and individuals, or sold. A large amount was transferred to railroads, and two sections, 16 and 36, of public school land in each township were given to various states upon admission to the union. Then the Homestead Act was passed in 1862, and later modified. The end result of these actions was rapid development of areas of the country. Acquiring title to a piece of land appealed to many, including foreigners from many European countries. In order to become a homesteader, any person who was twenty-one years of age, a citizen of the United States or had at least declared his intentions to become one, and did not already own more than 160 acres of land could qualify. The applicant was required to make affidavit that he was entitled to the privilege of the Homestead Act, and that the entry was made for his exclusive benefit and for actual set­ tlement and cultivation. Commission and fees for 160 acres in Hettinger County were $22 when the entry was made and $12 when final proof was made. These fees held for all homesteads within 40 miles of the Northern Pacific Railroad. In Adams County, once part of Hettinger, which was all thrown open for homesteaders since it was beyond the limits, the fee for 160 was $14 for the entry, and $4 when proof was made. The prospective homesteader was required to file his claim at the United States land office, which in the case of Hettinger 1 County was at Dickinson. He then had six month's time within #-#*c,. i • which he could establish his residence upon the land. Or, he could make a settlement on the land and make his entry within three months. Certain requirements were to be met before acquiring title to the land. He was to take up residence on his claim and cultivate it for a period of five years. The settler at the ex­ piration of that time and not later than seven years could "prove up", or make proof of fulfilling the requirements set Sundays afforded an opportunity for families to gather forth by law. The title was finally signed by the President of together to visit and enjoy bountiful meals. Here is one such the United States, and the homesteader became the legal gathering at the Iverson home. owner of the land. Should a homesteader wish to shorten his term of residence, he could make proof of settlement, residence, and cultivation after fourteen months from the date of making entry, and pay $2.50 per acre in the case of Hettinger County. This was called "commuting". An unmarried woman could take up a homestead providing she met the requirements named above. She could marry if she continued her residence on the land. However, man and wife could not secure separate homesteads by living separately simultaneously. One person by law could not acquire more than one tract of land by homesteading, but t ms ..nd daughters who had become of age were entitled to take up land for themselves. Should a homseeker fail to find a homestead he could pur­ chase a "relinquishment" from someone willing to give up his claim. Much has been said about graft in connection with homesteading. In many places there were gross violations, but it is very doubtful if there was much of it in Hettinger County, since as in most cases those filing claims were earnest homeseekers. Claim jumpers were alert to any violations of requirements; consequently, settlers were careful in ob­ serving the law to avoid losing their holdings to any who might Otto Christensen house. contest their claim. 27 HOMESTEAD DAYS A new plague began to show its face during the war years, Hettinger County had now been organized and colonization particularly in 1918, and continued intermittently in the 1920's completed. Homesteading was in order for the next five years and thereafter. Beautiful looking wheat crops that gave great or so. Practically every quarter was occupied on even promise were attacked by a disease known as Black Stem numbered sections save sixteen and thirty-six. Although Rust. Weather conditions favoring the growth of vegetation people varied as to background and nationality, they all had a were also conducive to the growth of this destructive fungus. It common goal - that of carving out a home for themselves in a is only of late years that it has been fairly well overcome by brand new country. This new frontier became a melting pot. the use of rust resistant varieties of seed which have been Neighbors were friendly and willing to help out - everyone developed through painstaking efforts of scientists. realized the necessity of co-operation and good will to all. The crash of the stock market in 1929, with its wide-spread Crops of 1907 and 1908 did not equal that in yield per acre of repercussions, brought about a depression felt locally in the bumper crop of 1906, but 1909 was all that could be desired. Hettinger County, along with the rest of the state and nation. People were happy and encouraged only to be disappointed That in itself, was serious, but our critical condition was ac­ with the extremely poor years of 1910 and 1911. For families centuated by the disastrous drought of the 1930's. Extreme who had suffered other reverses those years were particularly weather conditions, excessive heat and drought, resulted in difficult. Money could not be borrowed on homesteads until crop failures and large-scaled dust storms. Land without a the settler had proved up. Thus many were unable to secure cover of vegetation was at the mercy of the severe winds. Top loans except those who chanced to have other land to which soil carried away, was deposited in such likely places as they held title. Any money that could be borrowed, exacted roadside ditches and fence lines where thistles had lodged interest at 12 percent. The good crop of 1912 scarely put people after being blown from the fields. It was a common sight to see back on their feet again after surviving the two bad years, but fence posts almost buried by the accumulated soil. by now most of the settlers had proved up and were a little The record-breaking year for drought was 1936, when only more free to act without losing their land. In this day and age 6.08 inches of rain fell. It was in that year that the most with the various forms ofgoverriment assistance and relief, it disastrous plague of the century was experienced. may be difficult for one to realize what it was like to be en­ Grasshoppers came in hordes, forming clouds that darkened tirely on one's own. It was sink or swim. Many moved out of the sun when they flew in and landed for their conquest. The the country; others were able to stay and carry on. air was filled with the whirring insects as they set about to Montgomery Ward and Sears Roebuck carried groceries, devour, every particle of vegetation, eating down into the very along with their other lines, in those days. Many people roots themselves. For anyone not having witnessed the stocked up on dried fruit, cookies, artificial jelly, etc. devastation, it would be difficult to visualize the situation. However, catalogue houses were not patronized to a great Walking out of doors might be compared with fighting one's extent. An order had to be built to a hundred pounds or more way in a winter's blizzard. to receive full benefit of the freight rates, and that was not Trains had difficulty in making their way due to the grease always convenient. Freight was slow, and before the advent formed by the crushed grasshoppers on the rails. Driving of railroads into Hettinger County, it had to be hauled from along in a car, one had an opportunity to observe the great Richardton. It helped some to be able to call for freight at a numbers flying about and those sitting crowded .together on nearby town after 1910. The real boon to the settlers, however, the shady side of fence posts and buildings. It was depressing came in 1912 when the parcel post law was passed. Smaller for anyone indoors, to see the window screens covered with the amounts could then be ordered, and it came by mail much pests - all sitting at the everlastingly, same maddening angle. more promptly than by freight. When there was no more vegetation, the hordes departed, After homestead days had come to a close and most settlers leaving the land - the prairies, hills, and fields, - completely had been given title to their claims, it would seem that the bare. The next year, grass emerging, all of one kind, the gama pioneers had cleared the hurdles and better days were in grass, was a welcome sight. store. Their greatest hardship - that of leaving their old homes, The year following the grasshopper scourge, the army cultural backgrounds, and their relatives and friends - had worm made its appearance in certain areas. True to their been quite well overcome, their new homes had been name, they moved in, invading homes, and crawling over established, and they had become accustomed to a new way of everything in their path. Floors were covered with them; they life. They had gained wisdom from their experiences and had climbed over the furniture, found their way into food, beds, learned to cope with conditions and problems that arose. and even the drinking water. They, too, disappeared sud­ However, there were forces of nature with which they still denly, having done little real damage, since they arrived in had to reckon - some with which they were familiar, but in the fall of the year after what little crops there were had been varying degrees: blizzards, windstorms, hail, flutuations in harvested. extremes of heat and cold, rain and drought, all of which These local conditions, coupled with the large scale were accompanied by such consequences as prairie fires, dust depression of the nation, resulted in a near crisis. With no feed storms, and the like. for cattle, many of them died, and farmers were forced to The year 1913 had the shortest amount of moisture on sacrifice part, if not all, of their herds at ridiculously low record. Then came the very dry year of 1917, which was the prices. Furthermore, crops brought in very little income, if forerunner of the grasshopper plague of 1917-1919. World War any; consequently, taxes could not be paid nor expenses met. I days resulted in better farm prices, but with rationing of Many farmers lost their land and moved away, or went on certain commodities, and scarcity of others. People on the relief. It spelled doom for the small towns, whose business whole, were patriotic enough to be willing to put places were dependent on farm trade. Wholesale departure up with inconveniences caused, and made further sacrifices occurred in all but the larger towns, although business suf­ by doing Red Cross work and purchasing Liberty Bonds. fered in those places, also. Thus Hettinger County underwent During these days an epidemic broke out. By Armistice Day, great change in complexion, with the result that when con­ Spanish Influenza had grown to serious proportions, resulting ditions gradually improved, the old scene was no longer in in forty new graves in the Mott cemetery alone. evidence. 28 Hettinger County Schools Almost gone from the Hettinger County scene is the little The location of the first school building in Hettinger County one-room country school house but it has been enshrined in the was at New England. Built of petrified wood brought from the hearts and minds of hundreds of men and women who grew up Badlands before the turn of-the century, it is still in existence, in homestead days and the days of the small family farm. a monument to the earliest settlement in our county. They recall with nostalgia the hustle and bustle in getting It wasn't until the organization of Hettinger County April 17, chores done and lunches packed in syrup or lard pails, or in 1907, that public schools could be built. Before that time some instances, a tin tobacco box; then a hike perhaps ranchers had to provide for the education of their own children through stubble fields in the fall (to shorten the distance) or in their own way. As homesteaders came in, parents made through deep snow trapped by tall prairie grass, in winter, arrangements for a teacher and a place for the children to hopeful to reach the school house in time for a few moments of gather for instruction, or they waited patiently for some other play before school time. They remember, too, the ringing of provision to be made. A school is said to have been held at the the school bell that called them in from play at recess time; of Mutschelknaus home west of Mott in the early 1900's. Another waiting in turn to drink - everyone from the same dipper - was opened in 1905 in the Hoosier community north of Mott before taking their seats; classes taking turns at marching to where twenty nine pupils were enrolled. There a term of three the recitation bench where they sat during instruction and months was taught by Mrs. H. C Jacobson who was paid by recitation; the harsh scratching of the slate pencil; those who the parents for her services. couldn't be bothered to clean the slate with a damp cloth, but In the meantime, concerned parents were anxious for used saliva and the cuff of the shirt; the roasting of those county organization in order that schools might be provided who sat too close to the stove and the freezing of those farther for all children of school age. Perhaps, as in some com­ away; the stomping of the feet in order to relieve the itching munities in the state, a few families may have abandoned of chilblains; the preparation for programs that com­ their homesteads and returned to their old homes. + memorating each special day: Thanksgiving, Christmas, It was not long after organization that prompt steps were Lincoln's and Washington's birthdays,. Easter, Play Day, taken to set the machinery in operation. Herschell James had school closing, and so on ad infinitum. been appointed County Superintendent by Governor Burke. It was a way of life for children of that time, and although School districts were organized and school officers elected. schools were a far cry from those of today, they provided a Bids for the erection of school buildings were advertised in good basic education through the first eight grades for the local papers, and by the fall of 1907, several schools were children of those times. Getting a high school education, ready to open. Information as to how many there were is not however, was not an easy matter, and not many had the op­ available because county records were not kept for that school portunity to do so. year.

Mott's first public school in 1907. Miss Josephine Steak Mary Starks, Vesta Steer. Front row: Ruth Gherke, was the teacher. Back row in the doorway: Otto Barth, Howard Stanfield, Lenora Eckels, Harvey Beuhler, Fred Inez Eckels, Miss Steake, Edna Husby. Middle row: Clint Barth, Hobart Eckels, Emma Barth, Gordon Vorous, Eckels, Will , Fred Gherke, Floyd Vorous, Picture Credit: Mrs. Edna Husby Kjos. Clara Derby, Etta Rumph, Annie Barth, Marie Derby, 29 By the school year 1908-1909, the county was divided into the ODESSA, Dist. No. 1: School No. 1, W.T. Batty; No. 2, H.J. following school districts: Winterstein; No. 3 Maude Batty; No.4, Mrs. Carrie Dobson; Odessa, District No. 1: Highland, Odessa, Steiner, and No. 5, Minnie Batty; No. 6, David Jones; No. 7, Laura Walker. V. Jones; No. 8, Gretta M. Batty. Colgrove, District No. 2: Campbell and Acme. COLGROVE, Dist. No. 2: School No. 1, M. Ditter; No. 2, Or- Iowa, District No. 3: Rifle, and Madison. ville Williams; No. 3, Arthur M. Hundley; No. 4, M.A. Horsewill District No. 4: Black Butte, St. Croix, Indian Creek, Grubbs; No. 5, Wm. Weeks Jr. and Farina. IOWA, Dist. No. 3: School No. 1, Lyda Omdahl; No. 2, Emma Alden, District No. 5: Alden. Johnson; No. 3, Adeline Jarvis; No. 4, Gertrude Bagley; No. Mott, District No. 6: Mott, Beery, Castle Rock, and Brittian. 5, Adeline Jarvis; No. 6, Ida Lundeen; No. 7, Fred Moore Hettinger, District No. 7: Ashby and Kern. and Adeline Jarvis. Cannon Ball, District No. 8: Cannon Ball and Solon. HORSWILL, Dist. No. 4: School No. 1, Mattie Heckman; No. 2, New England, District No. 9: Kunze, Clark, New England, and Margaret Kennedy No. 3, Bessie Rowell; No. 4, J.M. Willis; Havelock. No. 5, Ella Omdahl; No. 6, Mrs. Eda Day; No. 7, Laura Strehlow, District No. 10: Strehlow, Tepee Butte, Kennedy, Tooker; No. 8, Evelyn John^ >n; No. 9, Thomas Blaine; No. and Wagendorf. 10, Edna Curry. Eagle, District No. 11: Merrill and Baer. ALDEN, Dist. No. 5: School No. 1, May Morrison and Inga Chilton, District No. 12: Chilton. Holland; No. 2, Thomas Blaine; No. 3, Ella S. Omdahl. MOTT, Dist. No. 6: School No. 1, J.A. Sullivan; No. 2, John R. + Writer's note: During the school year before our moving Batty; No. 3, H. W. Wright; No. 4, Flora Wagner; No. 5, to Hettinger County, a school mate left for North Dakota with Orpha Putnam; No. 6, Harriet Elertson; No. 7, Ora his family. Before the term was over, Dewey (a popular name Meadows; No. 8, Mrs. S.W. Bohn; No. 9, Alma Elertson; No. for boys of his age, due to Commodore Dewey's famous 10, Chas. Rumph; No. 11, Marshall Phillips. destruction of the Spanish fleet in Manila Harbor) Bennett HETTINGER, Dist. No. 7: School No. 1, Iva Ree Bratcher; appeared in school one morning and was given a seat behind and S. J. Boyd; No. 2, Iva Ree Bratcher. me. When I turned to inquire about his return, he said, "They CANNONBALL, Dist. No. 8: School No. 1, Will Crary; No. 2, didn 't have any schools out there so we came back.'' Mabel Ellertson; No. 4, Corta Heirs and Morton Little; No. 5, Georgia Crary. By the fall of 1908, about seventy school houses had been NEW ENGLAND, Dist. No. 9: School No. 1, Effie Marsh; No. built and approximately twelve hundred children were 2, Blanch Dunning; No. 3, Delia Rice; No. 4, A. F. Harris; waiting for the doors to open. Young men and women of the No. 5, Marie Ackerman; No. 6, Patrick Kennedy; No. 7, Carl county interested in teaching took examinations required for Ackerman. obtaining a certificate to teach, and applied for positions. In EAGLE, Dist. No. 11: School No. 1, Will A. Ekstein; No. 2, Ida some instances, permits were granted until such time that an Yttre; No. 3, Mrs. Bess Davis; No. 4, Roy Divers. examination could be taken. CHILTON, Dist. No. 12: School No. 1, Myrtle Ketchum; and Teachers for the school year 1908-1909 were as follows: Phern Alguire; No. 2, Marie Ackerman.

Hettinger County Teachers' First Institute held at Mott in 1908. Brown Collection Courtesy State Historical Society of North Dakota. 30 Many of the country schools were quite similar in ap­ Instructor Literature Series (7th and 8th Grade Classics) pearance and all were painted white. They were about 20' X Regular school attendance was a problem of concern to 30', having a gable at two ends with a flag pole mounted on the teacher and school authorities. Since many of the older one in front. There were usually three windows on each of the children were greatly needed at home during the fall and two opposite sides and two in front. The door in front led to a spring months, they frequently became discouraged and cloak room which was partitioned off from the school room. At dropped out of school before finishing the eighth grade. the front of the room was a rostrum about 9" higher than the Various efforts were made to encourage graduation from the floor, and on this reposed the teacher's desk with the country school, one of which was the making quite an event of recitation benches below facing it and the blackboard. Desks county graduation exercises. and seats in graduated sizes stood in rows facing the front. Elaborate preparations were made for the occasion with Furnishings included a globe, beginners chart, water pail, floral decorations, various musical numbers, special speakers dipper, and wash basin. There were pictures of Washington for the evening, valedictory and salutatory speeches by the and of Lincoln, and later a framed copy of the Ten Com- two ranking highest in the county in state examinations, to mandements. The room was heated by a pot bellied stove name a few. which was later replaced by one surrounded by a jacket. The coal shed was accessible from the rear of the room in order In spite of best laid plans, the unforeseen sometimes oc­ that coal could be brought in with a bucket. curred. The audience on one such an occasion was astonished when immediately following the invocation, the graduates A Course of Study from the State Department of Education broke into an enthusiastic applause, much to the chagrin of the outlined the work to be covered by each grade. The Westland person in charge. The group had been briefed beforehand to Educator was the state school journal of North Dakota; and clap after each number and they dutifully followed in­ the subjects treated and the work outlined and elaborated structions. upon, could be used to advantage by the teachers in following the Course of Study. The magazine was published by W. G. During the 1908-1909 school year, the Hettinger County Crocker, at Lisbon, North Dakota. Printed examination Reading Circle was organized. Arrangements were made for questions* for the month were copied on the board by the a corn contest for the pupils. In early times it was thought the teacher at the*time the tests were given. These questions were growing season here'was too short for raising corn. The sent out each month to subscribers of the Westland Educator. contest was launched to dispel the idea. Although the seed did not arrive frojn the Agricultural College at Fargo before June The study and memorization of a specified poem each 15th, the results were good. Thirty two contestants par­ month was one requirement listed in the Course of Study. ticipated with Lillian Nelson of New England winning first The Rotary, another magazine published by W.G. Crocker place, Olive Lince second, and Frank Uhler third. also, published the selections required for the month at hand, The Traveling Library was available the following year, besides other interesting material in connection with school • supplying good reading material for eager children. A spelling work. The magazine held great appeal for the children who contest was held and entered into enthusiastically. looked forward every month to the letter to them by "Uncle Will" found on the opening page. In taking a backward look from the present it is interesting to note that Hettinger County began with eleven school Prizes were offered in each issue of The Rotary for the best districts in 1907; fifty years later there were thirty two. Recent snap shots or photos suitable for composition material, for redistricting has led to the formation of five school districts. compositions written on topics suggested by the pictures of the Some of these include part of other counties; while small preceeding month, and for puzzles and drawings. The best portions of the county are included in districts of adjoining letters written to "Uncle Will" were published and answered counties. individually by him. All in all, it was a delightful magazine for children. The original number of rural schools in Hettinger County in 1908 has decreased from about seventy, to one at the present The Rotary was first published in 1897 and ran until 1922. time. The only school now in operation is in Eagle School School boards subscribed for the magazine for the schools, but District located in the southeastern corner of the county and many pupils proudly wore Rotary pins indicating that they the last one-room rural school to be erected in North Dakota. were individual subscribers. Text books were furnished by the school district. They in­ cluded such books as: New Century History of the U.S. - Eggleston - American Book Co. - 1904 Applied Physiology - Frank Overton M.D. - A.B.C -1908 First Days in School (Reader) Stewart-Cole - A.B.C. - 1899 Progressive Course in Reading-Bk. I through VI - Aldrich & Forbes - A.B.C. - 1899 Steps in English Bk. I and Bk. II-Morrow-Mclean- Blaisdell - A.B.C. - 1903 Natural Introductory Geography - Redway-Hinman - A.B.C. - 1897 Advanced Natural Geography - Redman-Hinman - A.B.C- 1907 Milne's Progressive Arithmetic - Wm. J. Milne - A.B.C. - 1906 Book I and Book II North Dakota Speller - Wm. Crocker Only rural school now in operation in Hettinger County. 31 A few more buildings were added after 1908, but then decreased in number as consolidation came into favor. Cherry Butte built in 1913, was the first of these schools to become consolidated. Later came Pleasant Valley and Timber Creek. Bentley and Burt schools were ready for occupancy in the fall of 1916, and Havelock in 1918. The first schools in the towns of Mott, Regent, and New England were held in one-room buildings but in the years through 1911-1914, construction projects of larger brick buildings were launched. Hettinger County also has two parochial schools, Saint Vincent's in Mott and Saint Mary's in New England. County Superintendents played an important part in the operation of schools of the county and perhaps had contact with more people of the county than any other individuals. Throughout the past sixty-five years, nine have served: Herschel James, 1907-1908; Josephine K. Steake, 1909-1914; Rural Bentley School, Miss Clara Kleinjan, teacher. Margaret Kennedy, 1915-1916; Shirley Fox, 1917-1922; Mrs. Glen Ferguson, Johnnie Morris, Vernon McMillin, Edna Galloway, 1922-1923; Martha Bratcher, 1923-1933; Howard Kibbel, Grace Gaines, Roderick McMillin, Jean Mildred Lane, 1933-1937; Arthur Leno, 1937-1944; Agnes Ferguson, Myrtle Kibbel. Espeland Svihovec, 1944--

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e ^ e l_. • • % * 1 to s» • e » K5 * —* • • n _*. '• • e • £ t • • • Q t_ -1 K e • • | • "•""• -"•-17- -» tt~ «* • • e e • e • e Nt > * • K e e • • • t

• • _> t- Location of €arfy Scfioofs 4 m > •

(Illustration -- Location of Early Schools as shown in 1917 Atlas)

32 Eighth Grade Graduating Class of Hettinger County, Hendricks, Arthur Meadows, Leona Bushart, Uniden­ June 13,1913. Front Row - Left to right: Lila Nelson, Olive tified. Eveland, Ethel Banning, Gertrude Mutschelknaus, Lillian Back Row - Left to right: Gerald Gillen, Clinton Eckels, Kavanaugh, Enid Bern, Merna Batty, Marie Derby, Anna Harvey Austin, Lee Wallace. Barth. Unidentified or not present: Gladys Austin, Minnie Second Row - Left to right: Florence Gill en Floyd Stults Engele, Mathilda Kouba, Lloyd Mars, Julia Robson, Lillian Schow, Edgar Wallace, Unidentified, Juanita Angeline Ulveg, Henry Gardner, Thelma Hagen, Hazel Mathews.

Student body of the Mott High School, May, 1915. Seated Hendricks, Joyce Babcock, Ezra Little, Elva Wiseman, left to right: Rose, Harvey, Mytle Hayden, Cecil Crane, Marie Derby, Florence Gillen, Waldo Wright, Enid Bern, Ivan Yantis, Gerald Gillen Trevor Messner, Cora Jordet, Arthur Remington, Etta Humph, Angeline Van Vegel, Eva Whitney, Mary Batty, Helen Galloway, Russell Walter Howard, Leota Landis, Alpha Brorby, Homer Larson. Batty, Clarence Vasey, Merna Batty, Lloyd Rounds, Standing left to right: Constance Stegenga, Juanita Mary Helen Kahn, Gordon Vorous, Ella Bohn. 33 HETTINGER COUNTY SCHOOL ENROLLMENT FOR THE SCHOOL YEAR 1908-1909

ODESSA NO. 1

School No. 8 Teacher: Gretta Batty Alvina Auch August Auch Bennie Auch Christian Auch Gottlieb Auch Henry Auch Lydia Auch Samuel Auch Bernhard Lemke Mary Lemke William Lemke Hettinger County's first school located in New England. Picture from Ida Neumann Willard's Story of the Prairies. Mary Neumann Otto Neuman Pauline Neumann Theodore Neumann Gottfried Riedlinger Anton Fried Mamie Hundley School No. 2, Alex Fried Arthur Hundley Teacher: Orville Williams ' COLGROVE NO. 2 Jacob Fried John Meyer School No. 1, Dale Abbey Flora Fried Nick Meyer Teacher: M. Ditter Grace Abbey Lizzie Fried John Messer Harold Abbey Cecil Crowder Rosy Fried George Messer Marion Abbey Homer Crowder Will Hagen Nellie Sarver Ralph Abbey Olen Crowder Maud Hagen Goldie Sarver Ruth Burkhart Leslie Ditter Ethbert Hagen Adam Treib Victor Evans Ellsworth Evans Raymond Freer Anna Freer Katie Freer Frank Freer Corean Howser Peter Keller Joseph Roster Christian Roster Willis Luitjens Everitt Schwartz Leda Schwartz Ethel Schwartz

School No. 3, Teacher: Arthur Hundley Albert Colgrove Margarete Johnson Mildred Johnson Lena Rolling Frank Mathews Lizzie Mathews First School in Bentley, 1910. Miss Ethel Erickson, teacher. Front row left to Frank Matz right: Walter Huber, Unidentified, Thyra Wilson, Idamae Bentley, Irvin Katie Vaner Rowland, Harvey Hiers, Newell Hamilton, Alfred Botton. Second row: Hazel John Walk Bentley, Irene Rowland, Helen Rowland, Emmons Botton, Charlie Hiers, Joseph Zimmerman Gladys Lindsay, Tommy Lindsay, Ira Schwartz. Back row: Miss Jacob Zimmerman Erickson, Nellie Schwartz, Frank Rowland, Unidentified. Adam Zimmerman 34 School No. 4, Teacher: J.A. Grubbs Jacob Burghardt Katie Burghardt Eva Bittenbinder Darwin Campbell Jolius Kaik Peter Kaik Jacob Kaik Frank Scharosh Elizabeth Scharosh Nick Zonner Nickolas Zonner

School No. 5, Teacher: Wm. Weeks, Jr. Huber Batty Homer Batty Merna Batty Mary Batty Leona Bushart Noel Bushart Martha Daniel Lillie Daniel Gertie Daniel Johnnie Daniel Noi Daniel

IOWA NO. 3 Mott eighth grade graduates June, 1917. Standing (left to right) Clara Layman, Ora Mc­ School No. 1, Donald, Roy Husby, Eva Varns, Lilly Phillips. Seated (left to right! Gladys Robson, Elethe Teacher: Lyda L. Omdahl Black, Agnes Cavenaugh, Chloe Beeman. Edna Brubaker Harry Brubaker James Brubaker Anna Dagal Mary Dagal Joe Hess Margaret Keller Mary Keller Einard Omdahl Andrew Reisinger Barbara Reisinger John Willard Valentine Yaeger

School No. 2, Teacher: Emma Johnson Lizzie Cherny Katie Helfrich Lizzie Herold Mike Herold Joseph Jurian Margaret Lampl Katie Lampl Anna Lampl John Pfeiffer ••••••••••••••••••••••••••iHBBB Anna Pfeiffer Nicholas Pfeiffer Seventh and eighth Grades, Mott High School, May 1915. Front row left to right: Harry Orr, Mike Schemberger Sophia Peters, Vera McCain, Keith Rounds, Etola Starks, Sara Landis, Agnes Kavanaugh, Emanuel Weidenbach, Emma Barth, Vivian Chalmers, Bernard Roberts, Hunter Remington, Ella Finneman. Back row: Paul Skartvedt, Dorothy Eldridge, Helen Stenenga, Theresa School No. 3, Thompson, Verna Baumhart, Dorothy Vasey, Florence Garske, Lulu Andes, Donald Black, Teacher: Adeline Jarvis Harvey Beuhler, Delia Conradson, Unidentified, Orville Chalmers, Fred Barth, Irene Strang, Katy Dassinger Marie Pew, Luella Kingsley, Grace Banning, Eden Andes, Laura Scoon, George Rogers, Elva Lena Dassinger Lovitt. 35 Pauline Heiser Edna Braeber Maggie Jahner Antoinette Tupa Joe Krebsz Helga Johnsen Lizzie Jahner Emma Tupa Anton Krebsz Golder Miller Celestina Jahner Frank Tupa Caspar Krebsz Everett Miller Sarnie Jahner James Tupa Mary Kronberger Margie Cox Everett Miller Joseph Tupa Katy Kronberger John Hubof Golda Miller Steven Tupa John Kronberger Ward Gray Einard Omdahl George Klupp Warren Gray Olive Omdahl School No. 3, Mike Klupp Jay Rutherford Harriet Sackett Teacher: Bessie Powell Rosy Schmidt Bert Jack sen Bessie Sackett Winifred Cotton Katy Schmidt Lorna Sackett Roscoe Cotton John Schmidt School No. 7, Emma Cass Gregor Tomaschyi Teacher: Fred H. Moore HORSWILL NO. 4 Avie Wallachy Ellis Cass Harry Brubaker Fred Wallachy Merritt Cass James Brubaker School No. 1, Carl Wallachy Francis Cass Edna Brubaker Teacher ; Mattie Heckman Joe Wallachy Jennie Cass Margie Cox John Wallachy Lizzie Buethner Hallie Piper Frank Gillenberg Annie Wotrang Olga Buethner Bernard Roberts Valentine Greff Frank Wotrang Elma Buethner Susie Stumper Joe Igaard Emma Wotrang Harry Chandler Fannie Stumper Margaret Jahner Annie Witte Lena Erickson Rosa Stumper Lizzie Jahner Willie Witte John Erickson Katie Stumper Salteen Jahner Willie Erickson Kenneth Strang Einard Omdahl Hazel Horswill Bessie Strang School No. 4, Olive Omdahl Raymond Horswill Pauline Scharf Teacher: Gertrude Bagley Leslie Rutherford Warren Horswill Julius Scharf Mary Bouck Lowell Rutherford Emma Uhler Dane Belt Myra Newkirk Lilah Rutherford Frank Uhler Charles Strang Hattie Sackett Rosa Uhler School No. 4, Elsie Strang Bessie Sackett Lily Uhler Teacher: J.M. Willis Ernie Strang Lorna Sackett Carrie Uhler Eda Griswold Irene Strang Frank Neprash Willard Griswold Thelma Strang School No. 7, Irene Herstein Donald Strang Teacher: Adeline Jarvis School No. 2, Wilbur Herstein Phoebe Smiley James Brubaker Teacher: Margaret Kennedy Elbert Clintsman Anges Smiley Edna Brubaker Anna Kouba Anton Werth Laura Cass Edwin Brubaker Frank Kouba Anna Werth Elbert Clintsman Jacob Boespflug Joseph Kouba Chrisjohn Werth Harry Chandler Minnie Boespflug Mary Kouba Clifford Lundy Annie Boespflug Matilda Kouba LeVera Lundy School No. 5, Margie Harmon Amber Williams Lewis Lundy Teachers: Adeline Jarvis John Igaard Gertrude Williams (Sept. 7, to Nov. 27) Julia Megeath (Nov. 30 to Mar. 19) Ubray Heath Ella Heath Elvin Lovitt Elva Lovitt Frank Lovitt Maybelle McNair Gleason Rifle Wilbur Rifle Herman Trzynka Ida Trzynka Fred Trzynka Karl Trzynka

School No. 6, Teacher: Ida Lundeen Myrtle Gray Roy Gray Hattie Gray High School Party given by the Teachers, March 6, 1914 in the gymnasium at the Mott High Mae Gray School. Maggie Graeber 36 School No. 5, Esther Haskins Emma Miller School No. 4, Teacher: Ella S. Omdahl Levi Haskins Gustav Miller Teacher: Flora Wagner Elsie Ottman Wilbur Olson Bernice Johnson Jack Dietz Inez Ottman Lydia Olson Herbert Johnson Nicholas Dietz Percy Rawn Hannah Luben Edna Husby ALDEN District No. 5 Jessie Rawn Ralph Luben Allie Jones Mabel Rwan Frank McKinley Elry Jones School No. 1, Teacher: May Morris Stults Viola McKinley Exonter Lutz Morrison (Sept. 21- Dec. 11 Floyd Stultz Frank Lutz Ethan Newby (Same School taught by Inga A. Gerald Stultz Gertie Lutz Holland - Apr. 5-June 25) Geraldine Stultz School No. 6, Fred Stern Homer Stultz Teacher: Mrs. Eda Day Ellen Anderson George Thomas Ruth Anderson W. Henry Sullivan Arthur Ulberg Paul Baddinger Elmer Anderson Emily Utter Bert Ulberg Magdalena Badlinger Nora Anderson Margaret Utter Clarence Ulberg Michael Badinger Lydia Anderson Mabel Utter Harold Ulberg Waldo Day Hilmer Anderson Ernest Utter Oscar Ulberg Eda Griswold Earnest Anderson Minnie Van Lishout August Van Veghel Willard Griswold Ethelyn Hagen Martin Van Lishout Julia Van Veghel Catherine Herberholz Celia Hagen Bernard Van Lishout Willie Van Veghel Eva Herberholz Hilmar Hagen Charles Van Lishout School No. 5, Raymond Jacobson Judith Hagbom Ruben Jacobson Alice Hagbom School No. 2, Teacher: Orpha Putnam Howard Jacobson Selma Olson Teacher: John R. Batty Ada Cook Emma Jacobson Elmer Olson Alice Hawn Arnold Cook Amanda Olson Paul Cook School No. 7 Berkey Hawn Raymond Hagen Myrtle Baumhardt Teacher: Laura Tooker Dorcas Hawn Herbert Halvorson Elmer Hawn Verna Baumhardt Edward Elliott Russel Rudd Earl Helms Leo Bannon Charlie Hayden James Helms Hazel Ebert Myrtle Hayden School No. 2, Virgil Helms Ethel Ebert Hazel McMahan Teacher: Thos. C. Blaine Juanita Hendricks Flossie Ebert Johnny McMahan Borghil Bach Henry Larcheid Esther Ross Earl Schmutte Lisa Bach Laura Larcheid Morris Ross Harman Schmutte Esther Jackson Mabel Larcheid Clarence Ross Albert Sangsland Willie Jackson Esther Ohlemiller Julia Robson Maurice Switzer James Carter Jacob Patyk Omar Robson Kathryn Tooker Willie Carter Clarence Shutters Gladys Robson Vess Tooker Olga Carter Grace Shutters Carl Smith Richard Tooker Esther Reece Edgar Wallace Herman Van Ross Edelle Treon Frank Wallace Ada Treon School No. 3, Lee Wallace School No. 6, Teacher: Harriet Edwin Treon Teacher: Ella S. Omdahl Lola Wright Elertson Arthur Treon Waldo Wright Georgia Halsey Alvin Bickford School No. 8, Harley Halsey Horace Flanagan School No. 3, Teacher: HW Clair Hallam Teacher: Evelyn Johnson Bernt Krogh Wright Christian Krogh Agnes Hallam Bertha Eveland Minnie Krogh Bennie Bohn Eva Hallam Olive Eveland John Johnson Ella Bohn George Klein Stephen Gion Alsa Johnson Delia Bohn John Pew Frank Gion Ray Johnson Charley Delano Marie Pew Carrie Lunder May Johnson Orville Delano Zelma Ressler Emma Lunder Ilia Miller Lindo Delano Elva Ressler Alice Johnson Ida Miller Marvin Delano Kathleen Senkbeil Clarence Johnson Glen Van Houtin Clarence Hunter Mary Senkbeil Elmer Johnson Andy Wagendorf Sarah Hunter Annie Senkbeil Henry Johnson Eva Wagendorf Elva Hunter Franz Kiltzer Jesse Wagendorf Pearl Mosher School No. 7, Arnie Severson Berniece Wakeman Wilber Mosher Teacher: Orra Meadows Oneva Severson Ethel Mosher Rosetta Andes MOTT District No. 6 Lloyd Rounds Ava Andes School No. 9, Keith Rounds Lula Andes Teacher: Edna Curry School No. 1, George Van Veghel Eden Andes Teacher: J.A. Sullivan Maude Anderson Orville Chalmers Clara Haskins Ella Miller Vivian Chalmers 37 Homer Eldridge Percy Eldridge Dorothy Eldridge Philip Forsch Henry Forsph Jack Forsch Lydia Forsch Carl Geiger Guy Halbett Arthur Meadows Dorothy Meadows Willie Roozen Walter Roozen Gracie Roozen Arthur Remington Jessie Remington Howard Halbett Ruth Scrogham

School No. 8, Teacher: Mrs. A.W. Bohn Harvey Buehler Emma Barth Theodore Barth Fred Barth Lydia Barth William Barth Anna Barth First Mott graduate, Ava Andes (front) and the High School faculty. Donald Black Doris Colburn Marie Derby School No. 11, Anna Chase School No. 2, Clara Derby Teacher: Marshall Phillips Edna Chase Teacher: Mabel Ellertson Inis Eckels Elmer Chase Hobart Eckels Clyde Babcock Irl Chase Drusilla Conradson Lenora Eckels Cyrus Babcock Philip Chase Emilie Kallis Clinton Eckels Joyce Babcock Alma Farmen Jacob Kallis Ruth Ensley Fritzof Bjurlo Karl Farmen Mary Kallis Katherine Ensley Joe Halbett Agnes Grohs Mathilda Kallis Ruth Gehrke Guy Halbett Mathilda Grohs John Klein Fred Gehrke Howard Halbett Alfred Guerts Mary Klein Carl Geiger Leonard Halbett Matt Guerts Andrew Mehrer Theodore Jones Olive Lince Delia McNeely Charles Mehrer Etta Rumph Fred Mehrer Leslie Jones Howard McNeely Ruthie Scrogham Jacob Mehrer Ida Jones Lloyd McNeely Arthur Wellons John Mehrer Maurine Kelly Adam Renner Eldo Wellons Margaret Nilles Howard Stanfield John Renner Hubert Wellons Martha Nillis Vesta Steer Ira Wellons Edward Weikum Gordon Vorous School No. 8, Freddie Willkom Emma Weikum Floyd Vorous Teacher: Will A. Crary Lawrence Willcom Henry Weikum Agnes Yates Floyd Vorous Arthur Armitage Katy Weikum Gordon Vorous Mamie Armitage Fred Weiss School No. 9, Fern Yantis Edwin Armitage Henry Weiss Teacher: Alma Elertson Lottie Armitage Molly Weiss Elsie Banning Loretta Armitage Lydia Weiss HETTINGER DISTRICT NO. 7 Josephine Armitage Ethe! Banning School No. 4, Florence Banning Willie Armitage School No. 1, Teachers: Corta A. Hiers (Sept. Grace Banning Florence Berry Teachers: S.J. Boyd 6-Dec,24) Morton Little (Oct. 5- Esther Mutchelknaus James Berrry (Sept. 14-Feb. 23) Katie Kraft May 26) Fred Mutchelknaus Enid Bern Gertrude Mutchelknaus Iva Ree Bratcher Martin Kraft (Sept. 14-April 6) Mary Kraft Efford Bern Willie Mutchelknaus Roy Clagett Winnie Mutchelknaus Agnes Boyd John Friz Thelma Clagett Grover Boyd Mike Friz Neva Boyd Florian Zentner Reginald Clagett School No. 10, Ray Boyd Rosa Zentner Dolly Ferguson Teacher; Chas. Rumph Zelpha Boyd John Zentner May Hopwood 38 Ray Filler Norman Nesja Hallie Filler Ella Nesja Mary Gleason Lillian Nelson Grace Gleason Thelma Nelson Agnes Hallam Walter Nelson Charlie Hiers Einar Otterson Harvey Hiers Walberg Otterson Clayton Morris Ragnihild Otterson Philip Morris Juleanna Pederson Eva Whitney Roe Spratt Paul Whitney Mina Filler School No. 4, Teacher: Mayme Wyant Susie Becher NEW ENGLAND Mary Becher DISTRICT NO. 9 Joe Becher Jennie Cass School No. 1, Howard Jacobson Teacher: Effie Marsh Clara Jacobson Henry Bohlman Reuben Jacobson Lizzie Bohlman Raymond Jacobson Mary Bohlman Emma Jacobson Fred Bender Adam Mesling Harry Bender Peter Mesling Walter Crumb Peter Nieder Henry Gardner Kate Nieder Luella Holt Katie Haberholtz Fred Kunze Joe Stecher Emma Kunze Peter Stecher Ida Kunze John Stecher Willie Kunze Tony Stecher Fred Matthews Katie Stecher Hazel Matthews Maggie Stecher Margaret McKenzie Matthew Stecher Mott's third high school graduating class, Mott High Mazie McKenzie School 1916. Girls left to right: Mary Helen Kahn, Grace Selma Peterson School No. 5, Norton and Etta Rumph. Boys left to right: Ezra Little, Carl Sand Teacher: Marie Marty Homer Batty, and Waldo Wright. Courtesy Etta George Sand Rumph Chesemore. Aplonya Angebrandt Milton Sand Matt Blizeffar Ella Schobinger Emma Blizeffar Lillian Hopwood Gladys Lindsay Fred Schobinger Dona Clark Thelma Hopwood Thommy Lindsay Louise Schobinger Marguerite Clark Ruth Harvey Fred Wehsner Alida Leder School No. 2, Rose Harvey Agnes Yates Marta Leder Teacher: Blanche Dunning Clara Kleinjan Mary Schnur Nellie Kleinjan School No. 5, Henry Gardner Lizzie Turner Walter Kleinjan Teacher Georgie C. Crary Hary Gardner Joe Turner Gordon Gardner Rosa Walery John Kleinjan Edna Chinn Lenora Holt Eva Little Eleanor Crary Hazel Matthews School No. 6, Ezra Little Arthur Filler Ray Matthews Teacher: Christina Blum Lloyd Little Myrtle Filler Lydia Presser Lizzie Blum Elmer Peterson Peter Blum Donald Rice Mary Herberholz Allan Rice Agnes Herberholz Carl Sands Katie Krach Agnes Weber Nick Niklos Julia Weber Lizzie Niklos Leo Weber Kaspar Niedarkorn Magdaline Stagl School No. 3, Katie Stagl Teacher: Lettie Griswold Mary Bohlman School No. 7, Meta Bohlman Teacher: Louis H. McCoy Albert Nesja Clarence Nesja Dona Clark 39 Wesley Cass School No. 3, Kate Bambush Raymond Lundberg Katie Lenhart Teacher: Delta Rice May Koon Arthur Meadows Morris Pfeiffer Frank Lisheren Mabel Carlson Anna Hovland Stella Pfeiffer Mary C. McCoy Sadie Carlson Florence Hovland Eula Pfeiffer Clyde E. McCoy Alfred Carlson Henry Hovland George Rogers Lawrence E. McCoy Henry Fresonke Lillian Hovland Hunter Rogers Otis Moore Mary Fresonke John Johnson Ira Swartz Mabel Moore Herman Fresonke Edward Lutz Earl Swartz Dena E. Wilson Otto Fresonke Gottlip Lutz Nellie Swartz John Fresonke Phillip Lutz Fern Swartz School No. 8, Mikel Jung Jacob Lutz Teacher: S.S. Stokes Maria Jung Carl Nass Josie Nass School No. 4, Christina Jung Teacher: Roy Divers Mary Dubisar Mamie Peters Tilda Nass Joseph Dubisar Grace Schweiger Victor Prehn Parker Calvin Katie Dubisar Dorothy Schweiger William Schnoor Leonard Bentley Rose Dubisar Alma Tufty Lucius Bentley Edward Koppinger School No. 2, Caroline Tufty Lula Bentley Matt Koppinger Teacher: A.F. Harris Melvin Tufty Harry Brown Nicholas Koppinger Agnes Hegge Leonard Tufty Ernest Gilbert Susie Martin Arthur Hegge Bernhard Torgerson Pearl Gilbert Mary Nedelkovitch Elmer Hegge Norman Torgerson Ruby Gilbert Joesph Nedelkovitch Mabel Hegge Theodore Togerson Russell Gilbert Lydia Presser Bernina Johnson Christian Wolf Ole Johnson Jacob Wolf John Gilbert Esten Jamison STREHLOW Elvira Johnson John Wolf Agnes Melander DISTRICT NO. Id Paul Johnson Rica Wolf Irene Johnson Basil Rose School No. 1, Sidney Johnson EAGLE DISTRICT NO. 11 Hamer Rose Teacher: Davis Dodson Ervin Upson Willie Schnoor School No. 1, Alfred Willnow Myrtle Anderson Loyd Strom Teacher: Will A. Echstein Emil Anderson Elmer Anderson School No. 5, Godfred Beier CHILTON DISTRICT NO. 12 Jacob Beier Charlie Fancher Teacher: Marie Ackerman School No. 1, William Fries Milton Fancher Teachers: MyrtleKetchum (Oct. Maggie Heidt Lawrence Kelsch Olive Fancher 12-Dec. 8) Phern Alguier (Nov. 9- Rachel Heidt Rosa Kelsch Paul Fancher June 30) Herbert Horn Joe Ott John Kelsch Helmer Flaaen Lucas Urlgher Anna Kelsch Mildred Arneson Selma Flaaen Wilhelm Urlagher Martha Lange Emil Arneson Murrille Jones Anton Wandler Fred Treichel Hazel Barbee Sylvia Jones Peter Wandler Henry Treichel Glen Barbee Deliah Hammond Sebastian Wandler Adolph Triechel Francis David Nellie Proper John Wandler Jack Treichel Nelse Esping Hulda Wutzke Victor Esping Louie Flaaen School No. 6, Mae Trunkhill School No. 2, Teacher: Patrick Kennedy School No. 2, Guy Trunkhill Teacher: Inga Holland Teacher: Ida Yttre Ragna Boe Anna Walby Peter Goetz Gunda Boe Mike Fries Myron Jensen Anna Goetz Hanna Boe Ocalinus Fries Ethol Jensen Eva Goetz Albert Donner Norma Knaus Hazel Noll Elizabeth Goetz Ella Donner Freddie Knaus School No. 2, Frances Goetz Gus Kosnik Samuel Krause Teacher: Marie Ackerman Magdalene Goetz Lena Kosnik Johnny Krause Alma Hjort Amanda Kosnik Adaline Kuntz Hallie Cary William Kramer Emil Kosnik Christian Kuntz Lottie Cary Edward Kramer Elva Muth Frank Kuntz Sophia Kost Roy Kramer Michael Ryan Alda Magstadt Charlie Kost Oscar Strehlow Martha Magstadt Charles Lutz John Strehlow School No. 7, Lydia Magstadt Ila LaGrave Nathanael Strehlow Teacher: Carl Ackerman John Magstadt Hazel Noll Susanna Strehlow Borghil Bach Anna Scheiber Lisa Bach School No. 3, Compiled from the files in the Rosa Scheiber Anna Bambush Teacher: Mrs. Bess David office of County Superintendent Lizzie Young Anton Bambush Parker Calvin Agnes Hoiby, by Deputy Alice John Young Joe Bambush Adolph Dahl Fiedler. 40 WILD FLOWERS The main flower of June and the crowning glory of all was, Wild flowers - the delight of the pioneer child? The of course, the wild prairie rose, North Dakota's state flower. emergence of the crocus was the sign that spring had.ad­ The sight was beautiful and the fragrance intoxicating. Small vanced suff iciantly for us to be permitted to shed currtbersome wonder, indeed, that the out-of-door child of the prairie, winter clothing in exchange for some of more suitable weight, surrounded by all this splendor in the presence of countless to remove our shoes and stockings and go barefoot — a most song birds and denizens of the plains, should be entranced by delightful and ecstatic sensation, allowing one to absorb to the the joys provided by nature. Small wonder, too, that the child fullest measure the balmy warmth of springtime. wishing to bring home bits of heaven would with tender, loving Before long, the wild forget-me-nots were bursting forth, care dig up flowers, careful to include plenty of sod around the soon to be joined by the red mallow to add contrast in color - roots, to carry home in a bucket, one by one, and plant in a wild geraniums, we called them. Soon the prairies were dotted prepared location. And what reward to succeed in making with locoweed and the milk vetches. Moss phlox grew in them grow mingled together in a wild flower garden all one's profusion in poor soil on hillsides, as it still does. own. The blue violets were more of a rarity, but could be found in early May in grassy draws where they might be surrounded by buttercups and yellow johnnie-jump-ups. Should one have WILDLIFE pasture land of somewhat sandy soil, the spiderwort would Wild life perhaps was not of much concern to the delight the flower seeker in June. Such an unusual flower with homesteader, although the coyote was a predator that proved its blue, three-petaled blossoms that wither into an inky mass to be a nuisance to those having sheep, poultry, or young in the afternoon! "The flowers are of special interest to the animals; while on the other hand, jack rabbits and prairie student because of the bead-like hairs on the stamens. Under chickens were a source of food should it be desired; otherwise, the microscope, the movement of protoplasm can be seen in birds and animals received very little attention from him. the cells" forming these hairs"(l) Pentstemons generally grew abundantly in sandy soil also, but could be found growing in almost any prairie soil. There they ranged in colors of blue, white, and pink, depending upon the acidity or alkalinity of the soil. Heavy gumbo land, on the otlier hand, might yield the delicate butte primrose, com­ monly called the gumbo lily. Petals of these flowers were larger than the general run of wild flowers, but fragile, each white four-petaled blossom lasting only a day, then turning pink, soon to wither and make room for more to come the next day.

To the pioneer child, however, as with all children, animal life had a great appeal. When he first stepped upon the prairie in quest of adventure, he no doubt noticed the scattering of bleached buffalo bones, skulls, and horns; particularly if his home happened to be in an area of early buffalo hunts. Curiosity prompted the child to learn about the remains, and although the buffalo had by this time been exterminated on the plains, the child coming upon the sight of scattered bones, heard in his imagination, the thundering roar of the herds, or rode with the Indians and other hunters in pursuit of these mighty beasts. Butte Primrose. The thirteen-lined gopher, no doubt was the child's first If soil on hillsides were of a particular kind, the yucca liiy encounter with live creatures. They were numerous enough to grew in abundance. Its sharp, narrow "bayonet" leaves were create an interest, and offered a challenge to him; and gopher treacherous, but huge greenish-white bells on tall stalks were tails became as much of a trophy for the young would-be beautiful. They made gorgeous bouquets - but oh, the of­ savage as scalps were to the Indians. Various methods of fensive, heavy, oppressive odor if kept in the house! capturing gophers included trapping, snaring, drowning, and shooting with air guns or sling shots. The discovery of the miniature wild iris, growing in grasses alongside creek beds, gave rise to a very special sensation of The tails were also used as a form of barter, since their joy because of its scarcity as well as delicacy. This tiny replica of the common iris had blossoms the size of a violet and was borne on reed-like stems surrounded by slender (DC.A. Stevens, Wild Flowers of North Dakota, Agricultural leaves. Experiment Station, N.D.A.C Fargo, North Dakota 41 bounty value at times was a penny apiece, and many a THE SOD HOUSE transaction was made with gopher tails as a medium of ex­ change. Upon occasion, they might even serve as a birthday The sod house was pretty much a part of the Hettinger gift. County scene in homesteading days, although only three can Creek banks were favorite haunts of the prairie youngster. be recalled here in Cannon Ball township. Most of the sod Here water snakes and frogs captured the attention. Ex­ houses are no longer in existence but several were so sturdily perimentation taught him that when grasping a snake below built that they are still in good condition. A drive throughout the head, it was powerless and hung limp beneath his fingers. the county will reveal many of them. Luckily, Hettinger County was not rattlesnake country. Probably the only poisonous snake was the blue racer but it Perhaps the main cause of deterioration was the weakening was seen very rarely. The hog-nose adder and bull snake were of walls by cattle who gathered for protection against the startling when they were encountered, although they were elements. They wore down the corners by rubbing against harmless. Mud puppies, or salamanders, were curiosities seen them thereby weakening the walls sufficiently to cause the at times around water holes. roof to cave in. Some of the houses were preserved by cementing the walls, tiling, or boarding them up on the out­ Jack rabbits were plentiful but claimed only momentary side. attention, although many an attempt may have been made to domesticate a baby rabbit almost always without success, but with great concern. The youngster during his first night in his prairie home experienced the effect of the eerie sound of howling and yelping coyotes - a sound so blood-curdling that he was glad to snuggle under the covers in the safety of his new home. Night after night the serenade was repeated, and as always, it sent cold shivers up and down his spine. The out-of-doors at night held no appeal; the penetrating howl of the coyotes, be it one or two, or of several packs, filled the darkness with terror for the child and sent him scurrying into the house. Prairie dogs in their colonies or "towns" were interesting because of their habits, and "they furnished hours of amusement to the onlooker. These animals are rodents but resemble tiny dogs, especially when those on guard sit on their mounds barking at the approach of a possible threat to them. They could be observed while they were feeding on grass and bushy plants during the early morning hours. Very few would be in sight towards noon. Badgers, skunks, muskrats, weasels, and a few antelope could be seen on occasion. The raccoon, fox, procupine, and cottontail seemed not to have made their appearance in this region until in later years. Rats did not find their way here The Sam Walker family members. until after the coming of the railroads. They were then ac­ cidentally brought in along with freight shipments. It is somewhat noticeable that some of the houses still Not as many kinds of birds were common to our area as standing do not face a true north-south or east-west direction. there are at present but those we had were more numerous. It The owner perhaps wanted to have it built in the direction of is only of late years that robins among others have made their the prevailing wind, but we must remember that had he appearance. Prairie chickens, on the other hand, were quite wished to build it "straight with the world" he had nothing to common, while pheasants were not yet to be seen in the early go by in the daytime except the sun. In the fall of the year the days. sun would be pretty far to the south so that what appeared to be east would be south east. It is true that if he were really Meadow larks were the crowning glory of all song birds. fastidious about this, he could have obtained true bearings at They were the first to arrive in the spring and they spent all night from the North Star. summer here, filling the air with their sweet and melodious Having staked out the outline of the house, the builder would songs. To the children they seemed to sing, "Spring will soon then look for a suitable plot of ground for his sod. This might be here." An alternate song was, "I'm a pretty little bird." be a low spot where grass grew abundantly, forming a thick Horned larks were almost as numerous but not quite as network of roots to hold the soil firmly together; or perhaps colorful. better still, where buffalo grass grew. Sod in the latter was Ground owls, or the burrowing owls, lived in holes in the filled with short, kinky roots that resembled a mass of fine ground. They furnished amusement as they sat following the wire, after the soil was taken out. movement of a person should he walk around them. A plot of the selected area was plowed into foot-wide Movement of the head from one side to the other was so rapid furrows, with a walking plow, then cut with an ax or a spade that it could not be detected, but seemed to make a complete into two foot strips (or any desired length) and hauled home on turn of 360 degrees. stone-boats. The first layer of wall was made by placing two strips parallel, side by side, all the way around. The next layer With these denizens of the wild, the prairies would have been was laid criss-crossed brick fashioned. This was continued a desolate place, indeed. alternately until the desired height was reached. 42 In forming the doors and windows, planks were laid at the bottom and top of the spaces allowed for these openings. CHURCHES Later, the frames would be cemented in. A sill was laid along the top of the wall to provide a place for anchoring the rafters Woven into the fabric of homestead life was the religious for the attic floor, also for the gable and roof, which were temperament of its people. Where members of a community usually made of lumber. were mainly of one denomination, action was soon taken to Entrance to the attic or spare sleeping quarters was build a church and parsonage to serve the area. If no generally on the outside, with the stairway leading to it from denomination predominated, a union Sunday school was without. The house was finished as desired with wood or dirt organized to meet in a home or in a school house. Ministers floors. After settling for a year or two, the walls might be from a nearby town were sometimes enlisted to conduct in­ cemented. Some plastered the walls with gumbo mixed with terdenominational services when available. water and sometimes manure, to make it binding and of the Meeting places in the towns were frequently held in some proper consistency, then colored by adding bluing to it. hall or school building until a modest church building could be Disregarding the back-breaking labor, sod houses made erected. cheap living quarters. They were warm in winter and cool in Ministers themselves followed the tide of immigration into summer although perhaps not the most healthful place in the West, realizing the needs of the people on the new frontier. which to live, because they were in many cases, too air-tight to They were dedicated men, ready to serve without thought of provide enough fresh air. Frame buildings, on the other hand, any material gain for themselves. Their selflessness was were often too drafty for good health. Both kinds varied as to evidenced in their devotion to duty, and tireless work amongst the comfort and livability, depending upon the resources, their congregation and community without much in the way of ingenuity, and skill in making them suitable for individual renumeration. Parishioners, having little cash, gave what needs. They were only a part of the inconveniences that they could of food and every day necessities. pioneers were willing forego in establishing roots out here on One by one the country churches were forced to close as the prairies, with the hopes that better times were in the of­ population shifted. Some of the buildings still standing are fing. Now, in retrospect, the sod house can be looked upon as a silent reminders of the past. Other church structures have romantic aspect of pioneer life. been moved away, leaving only a lonely grave yard with names on the tombstones to remind one of an earlier era in our county.

ONE OF MOTT'S MOST UNFORGETTABLE CHARACTERS

A group of people, gathered together in the Assembly Room of the old Mott High School building, sat in quiet expectation. It was almost 11:00 o'clock on a Sunday morning in 1913. Presently, in strode a tall, thin man dressed in a swallow-tail coat and striped trousers. His classic Nordic features were enhanced by moustache, short goatee, and large tortoise-shell spectacles with a black ribbon suspended from them. A carnation in his lapel added the final touch to his appearance. He mounted the rostrum with the dignity of a ruling monarch, placed his books on the speaker's stand, paused to look over the audience with his sharp, piercing eyes, then opened the service. Thus the Reverend John K. Casperson John Stern home east of Mott as it stands today, built of began his duties for the week as first pastor of the Mott stone in 1905. English Lutheran Church. Born in Kristiania, Norway in 1880, Rev. Casperson at­ tended both Augsburg and Redwing Seminary in America. Before coming to Mott in 1911, he taught Norwegian at Jewell College. In addition to his impressive appearance Rev. Casperson was a scholar and a deep thinker - an intellectual in the true sense of the word. But although his sermons were eloquent and frequently over the heads of his audience they left the listeners inspired; and with a feeling of well-being the members departed to face the labors of the new week. Pastor Casperson was a busy man as he worked amongst his congregation in Mott as well as Bucyrus for a time. His ability as a public speaker frequently brought demands from various organizations. An incident comes to mind that occurred on one of his busy days. It so happened that he "kept company" with a lovely and talented young lady of the community, and had made a date to attend a Chatauqua entertainment at the high school building. Because he could not get home until shortly before the entertainment, it was arranged that the lady friend Joe Klein stone house along the Cannonball • Built in would stop by the parsonage. He hoped to be ready by the time 1903. she arrived, and they would go on from there.

43 Coming home even later than he had anticipated, he was in EARLY NEWSPAPERS the process of washing up at the kitchen wash stand beside the back entrance. Just as he opened the door to throw out the Newspapers played a very important role in the develop­ water from the wash dish, as was a common practice in the ment of new towns. The Hettinger County Dynamo, The days before sewage systems in Mott, his friend stepped to the Hettinger County Herald and the Mott Pioneer Press, were the door. Her arrival at that most unfortunate moment enabled first to be established. With the coming of the railroads and her to receive full benefit of the water disposal. the new towns that sprang up, the Burt Echo, the Bentley Thinking it was all a put-up job - getting her to come to his Bulletin, and the Regent Times were founded; Mott and New door to be doused with water - the lady was slow to be con­ England later boasted of two other papers- the Mott Spotlight vinced that it was all an unfortunate coincidence. However, and the Slope Messenger. the tense situation was resolved and all was well once again. These papers all included news columns written by Our memory takes us back to his visits at our home when he correspondents of the various communities. Town news was came to give us children instruction for confirmation. Because reported on very candidly and the roving reporter had a sharp he rode the twelve miles on horseback, he would stay over­ eye open as to what was going on about town. Local news was night and in this way get in two study sessions for each trip. given considerable coverage on the inside sheets. After the evening meal, he and our father engaged in con­ Editors carried on lively disputes with each other in their versation which centered mostly on the involved history of the editorial columns, much to the amusement and interest of the Scandinavian countries and western Europe. How glorious readers, and they were not hesitant in taking sides in political they made it sound! As they conversed far into the night, we matters and in voicing their opinions. children sat listening, spellbound to the end. The general theme was the boosting of the home town and Before lessons the following morning after one of these Hettinger County; consequently, the knocker was given a bad evening sessions, Rev. Casperson asked Efford, then a name as is evidenced in this item found in the Bentley Bulletin youngster, if he would give his horse some oats. Efford, in earlier years: thinking he had to be very formal with this erudite man, replied, "Ah-h-h, I think Mr. Bern fed him earlier this mor­ THE KNOCKER ning." Trying to maintain his composure after hearing Efford refer After God had finished the rattlesnake, the toad and the to his father as "Mr. Bern", Rev. Casperson answered with vampire he had some awful substance left which he made a dignity and we got on with the lessons. "Knocker". A knocker is a two legged animal with a Countless memories of our minister in connection with his corkscrew soul, a water-logged brain, and a combination life amongst the congregation, led us to realize what a backbone made of jelly and glue. Where other people have remarkable man this was. Although nearsighted, his piercing hearts, he carries a tumor of rotten principles. If the knocker eyes observed all that was going on. Should some parent, for comes down the street, honest men turn their backs, angels instance, take a youngster to task, the minister might well weep tears in heaven, and the devil shuts the gates of Hell step in on behalf of the child, and explain to the parent the true against him to keep him out. No man has the right to knock as situation as he had observed it. long as there is a pool of water deep enough to drown his body in, or a rope to hang his carcass. Judas Iscariot was a gen­ In spite of his mastery of the English language and his tleman compared to a knocker, for having betrayed his scholarly way of speaking, there remained a vestige of his Master he had character enough to hang himself, and a native tongue in the way he drew out his words. Typical of knocker has not. —Exchange. this was an outburst at the sight of the beauty of the scenery when in the company of young folks exploring the Black Hills, Should the editor see humor in a unfortunate situation he was as he exclaimed eloquently, "I'm an ar-r-r-dent ad-mir-r-r-er not prone to refrain from giving it "the works" as in another of the mar-r-r-velous gr-r-r-a-a-a-a-nd-eur!" Sometimes his BENTLEY Bulletin BULLETIN item: ejaculations were expressed in Norwegian when he would burst forth with, "Nai, har du set paa makan!" (Have you ever seen the like!) Reverend Casperson told us one time of his plans to change DAN KUK ARRESTED SATURDAY his name to Flint. When he left Mott in 1918 to become pastor Bad Man of Odessa in Limbo of Trinity Lutheran Church in Bismarck, North Dakota, he choose the opportunity to have the legal work effected. Then Last week the sheriff from Mandan came to Odessa and took as Rev. John Flint, he served the church in the capital city Dan Kuk of that city to the county seat to stand trial for until April 1, 1920, when due to some difficulty resulting from forgery. He worked a pair of phony checks on Frank conflicting religious views, he was dismissed from the church. McQuillan, landlord of the Inter-Ocean Hotel of Mandan. This He later turned Unitarian. looks like a big package to lug around as the penalty for forgery is a big one. It was when he was serving as pastor at Underwood, Min­ Dan is some bad man. Last fall Dan went to a nearby town, nesota that we last heard of him. He had halted a farm sale at filled his carcass with the festive bug juice, and drove his Fergus Falls, Minnesota, when the owner was unable to family out of doors when he came home. Up-to-date his worst protest. The pastor declared farmers "should get their pie on sins have been overdoses of Claret Port and stronger con­ earth, not wait for it in Heaven." A most unforgettable coctions of the ardent variety. Three prominent citizens of character, indeed, v/as this man. Odessa sat on his form all one night after one of his jamborees. The sketch of Reverend John K. Casperson appeared In the morning he was escorted to the city limits and given all previously as "One of Mott's Most Unforgettable Characters," the world to wander in but Odessa. For a month he was almost Plains Talk, (Spring, 1973), published by the State Historical too good for earth. Now the super-heated steam has got the Society of North Dakota. best of him. Dan is in bad again. (1) 44 THE NORTH DAKOTA MAGAZINE the railroads, but making the roads impassible. Not­ withstanding these extraordinary conditions, there-was ab­ Prior to 1905, little had been done on the part of the state to solutely no suffering in the old settled portions of the state, and attract immigration. The railroads had done considerable very little in the newly settled portions - nothing like the work through their immigration departments in presenting reports sent out from here or manufactured in the east. facts with reference to North Dakota to the world. Im­ There were a few deaths but they all occurred through the migration literature had been sent out and representatives of rankest kind of carelessness on the part of the people who lost the roads had traveled about attracting settlers to North their lives. People who would be foolhardy enough to start out Dakota, but the importance of immigration work by the state on a journey for several miles in a sparsely settled section of had not been generally realized. the country in a blinding snow storm must expect to lose their In 1905, the commissioner of agriculture asked the lives. This would happen in any state where the country or legislature for an appropriation that the state might cooperate climate should be blamed for the fool acts of fool men. More in the work of advertising its resources and bringing settlers people lose their lives in one winter in New York state by to North Dakota, they received $20,000 for the biennial period. exposure to the cold than in North Dakota in a lifetime. And This was later renewed. yet nobody is kept from locating in that state on that account. The North Dakota Magazine was established soon after by Roscoe Conklin, one of the most brilliant statesmen of his day, the commission and copies sent out to thousands of readers died from the effects of struggling through snowdrifts on the throughout the United States. It sought to bring the resources main streets of New York City during a terrible blizzard there. of the state to the attention of the public and presented He was only one of hundreds who perished in New York City at descriptions of the counties and cities of North Dakota as well that time, and yet no one will believe that New York City is as views showing local farms, ranches, improvements, and uninhabitable and its climate dangerous. Every state in the other resources. union has its drawbacks. There are no elysian fields on God's Beginning on this page, an interesting article from green footstool. Those who have left this state in search of the June 1907 issue of this magazine is presented since it them have evidently returned poorer but wiser. There is no pertains to a topic much heard about by all early North state in the union today that offers better opportunities to get Dakotans including Hettinger County settlers. Following this ahead in this world's goods than North Dakota. There are will be others applying specifically to Hettinger County. hundreds of men in every county in this state who are worth from ten thousand to one hundred thousand dollars, who came WHERE GRIT AND PLUCK PROSPER here a few years ago poorer than a church mouse. They got North Dakota Magazine - June 1907 this money out of the soil. What has been accomplished can be done again and is being done every year. What other section of The land boomers of the southwestern states are taking the country can show a record like this? advantage of the reports sent from this state of the suffering and coal shortage during the past January to turn the tide of immigration from North Dakota to their sections of the country. During the past five years North Dakota has put THE REAL CONDITIONS IN NORTH DAKOTA these boomers out of business. The lands were a drug on the North Dakota Magazine - June 1907 market. The people were intent on coming to this great land of promise and they were not to be sidetracked to any other The legislature of the state of North Dakota conducted an locality. Now these land boomers are ringing the charges on investigation into the sensational and exaggerated reports of the exaggerated reports of the terrible suffering in this state, climatic conditions and made the following report as a result and the eastern papers are publishing the craziest reports of their inquiry. imaginable, largely made up in their offices, in hopes of keeping their own people from moving here. Report of the Special Committee. During the past ten years the winters here have been so mild that everybody had adopted the belief that the climate was In pursuance of a resolution adopted by the house, the un­ changing into a milder form and they became more and more dersigned committee was appointed for the purpose of in­ lax in making preparations for a long continued spell of severe vestigating the conditions that prevailed in various parts of weather. Winter after winter such a thing as a blockade for the state during the winter regarding the reported fuel and more than twenty four hours was an unheard of occurrence. food famine, and beg leave to make the following report: The people had been supplied with plenty of fuel as they needed it, and never had any other idea than that those con­ We have had fair opportunity to ascertain the facts from a ditions would continue to exist for all time to come. large portion of the state, from persons who are residents Then came the unusually heavy snowfall in early Decem­ thereof and conversant with the conditions that existed in their ber. Heretofore we have always had a few days of warm respective localities. weather after a heavy snowfall, causing a thaw. We have the statements of a large number of stockmen, and This would be followed by colder weather which would freeze the universal verdict is that their stock has come through the the snow and form a crust hard enough to bear a team over winter better than during the average year in this state; cattle any snowdrifts in the land, and prevent the snow from being and horses looked fine, and in remarkable good condition. blown hither and you by the breeze. This winter was an ex­ ception in this respect. From the first of December until the It is the testimony of these stockmen that they knew of no first of February we never had a thaw. The snow during all deaths by freezing in their localities, and very few instances of that time remained light and dry and was easily blown before scarcity of fuel. They also report that cattle, horses and sheep the slightest wind. No sooner would the railroads get their grazed through the greater part of the winter, and that there tracks clear than they would fill up again. Every day for two have been no losses in the sheep line - the tenderest of all months the snow was drifting, not only filling up the cuts along livestock.

45 We also find that the rural routes were kept open, and that indifference of the people in not preparing for winter. These the mails were regularly delivered. people, however, are not censurable for this neglect, because We know of no instances where the public schools were the winters of the past have been such as to require no un­ closed for the want of fuel. necessary precaution to be taken or any great quantity of fuel The general verdict is: If there was any suffering whatever to be provided for winter uses. it was with the class of people who would not even carry in coal From reports received, farmers are now preparing for their if it was near their door.s; as it was stated by more than one spring work and the general conclusion is that the heavy fall of individual, the people of this state are too prosperous and gave snow during the winter will prove a blessing rather than a very little heed to laying in supplies of food for the winter. detriment. The snow is rapidly disappearing into the soil, The congested conditions of the railroads were due, to a supplying plenty of moisture, which will place it in excellent great extent, to the enormous crops produced last year; the condition to produce a bountiful crop. It may be that there will crops for the last few years have been so large that it has be some water stand in the depressions, but these will be created a larger demand for railroad facilities than the drained when the spring plowing begins which will be railroads could get cars to move it. probably be earlier this year than for many years past. The The weather bureau report shows that the snowfall for the fact is that with a few exceptions the people of North Dakota entire state averaged about twelve inches, and this was nearly were free from suffering and hardships and the entire state all melted before the end of February. will be benefitted by the winter's heavy snow. From reports received from the northwestern portion of the This winter's scare, for such it really was, will successfully state where there are practically no railroads, the people teach the people of this state the necessity of making suffered very little and there were no reports of deaths, either preparation for the winter months and to guard against the from the lack of fuel or food, and livestock never was in better recurrence of a fuel shortage, though it is extremely doubtful condition at the present season of the year. One individual if such a condition will ever exist again. The people of this stated that in a drive offorty miles across the prairie he saw state have heretofore been so bountifully supplied with fuel eight herds of horses which showed fine condition, and and the winters have been so mild that they became careless, believed the poorest one on the lot could not have been caught seeing no necessity for laying in a supply of this necessary by the fleetest-footed, well-kept horse in the state of Illinois. article, depending upon the local dealers for any demands He said that, while admitting that we have had a cold winter, they might make upon them at any given time during the were it not for the grossly exaggerated reports published in winter. the eastern papers we would have forgotten weeks ago that the The past winter has taught the inhabitants of North Dakota thermometer registered below zero. the necessity of following the example and custom of the Another gentleman who was before us stated that there was people of the eastern states, who every fall fill their coal bins enough coal in our state to heat all the houses in the state and with a sufficient quantity of fuel to last through the entire all the houses in the United States during the time our winter. This important duty has been overlooked by our children's children should live and then there would be plenty people, who have been for so many years basking in the of coal left in North Dakota to supply all its demands. In sunshine of pleasant winters, and had grown to think that speaking of the conditions that prevailed during the recent North Dakota was a veritable "banana belt". winter the concensus of opinion was that North Dakota ab­ solutely needed no defense; that nowhere could more money be made than in North Dakota and that you could never stop the people from coming to our state because we are a purely The report of the United States weather bureau for January agricultural state and it is the only land left in the Union that states that the precipitation for that month, which consisted will produce a crop at all times. wholly of snow, averaged 1.40 inches for the state. The average snowfall for the section was 14.5 inches. The mean We find that people with malicious intent have magnified temperature for January, which was the coldest month in this the conditions that existed during the past winter for selfish state for the past sixteen years, was 6.2 degrees, or 13.5 interests and purposes. We also find that many irresponsible degrees below normal, and 18.4 degrees lower than the mean reporters for eastern newspapers have magnified small in­ for January, 1906. stances into mountains of falsehood for the purpose of producing sensational stories and getting them accepted and We desire to epitomize the result of our investigation in the paid for. We find that people who have become envious of the following manner: progress and development of the state of North Dakota have aided and abetted in producing and circulating malicious RESOLUTIONS stories detrimental to the interests of North Dakota. We also find that some of our state newspapers have published stories Whereas, gross and misleading statements have been prompted by pique and a feeling of uncertainty, and these published in eastern newspapers regarding conditions that stories have found their way eastward to be magnified by prevailed in North Dakota; and people who wish to stay the tide of immigration that is coming Whereas, it is known that this has been one of the severest to North Dakota. We even find at this late date when railroads winters that has visited the United States for many years; and are open for navigation and fuel is in abundance that the Whereas, this winter has been equally as severe in other eastern newspapers and others who are directly opposed to states as in North Dakota; and the best interests of North Dakota are giving publicity to these Whereas, notwithstanding these conditions, North Dakota false stories and malicious reports. has escaped with very little suffering from either scarcity of The branch lines of the railroads are now opened up and the fuel or cold, and none from the lack of food; and farmers are coming into different towns. From them it is Whereas, from reliable reports received from different learned that the fuel situation was not nearly so great as was sections of the state, it appears that the greatest suffering the reported. It develops that a scarcity of fuel only existed in people of North Dakota have endured came from the false and isolated sections and this was largely due to carelessness and sensational reports circulated in the eastern states; and 46 Whereas, it is true that our people were more scared than injured, and are today making light of the matter in view of HETTINGER COUNTY IN 1906 the fact that they are all enjoying health and sunshine, sup­ (North Dakota Magazine - Sept. 1906) plied with ail that makes life pleasant, and their livestock has come through the winter in splendid form with a minimum A very fertile region which has become attractive to the loss; and newcomers in the state is Hettinger county, which is directly Whereas, the prosperity of the people of this state has been south of Stark county, and the settlers along the north and so intent on accumulating wealth that they neglected to south forks of the Cannonball river are tributary for their prepare for winter; and principal trading to Richardton, although there are some Whereas, the present winter, while severe, was of short active competitors for business in the new towns of Mott and duration, and in reality only extended over a period of forty New England, but they are handcapped at present by the lack days; and of railroad facilities and all their goods have to be hauled Whereas, from investigation and reports received the loss of overland by teams. Signs are not wanting to show that the life and suffering was in fact reduced to the minimum; and western half of the county will be subject to more general Whereas, while the conditions have been unfavorable for invasion. railroading, yet we believe the railroads have done all in their Hettinger county lands were in the market and began to power to accomodate the public and untiring in their efforts to attract the attention of new home seekers in 1904. The seekers supply the wants of the people and move the immense after new lands to conquer traversed the regions south of products of the soil; and Richardton and were satisfied that, with proper tillage Whereas, the Minneapolis Tribune and Minneapolis Journal following the breaking plow, there were hidden riches to be and the Commercial West have generously extended the use of brought forth from the thousands of acres of a surface soil of their columns to our people to set forth the actual conditions black loam and a perfect clay subsoil below, except on the which prevailed in this state during the winter, and have ridges. It was just the land wanted by the farmers from ad­ expressed a willingness to correct the many false and sen­ joining states who wanted to engage in mixed farming. sational stories which have been circulated in the past; and Filing on government homesteads and holdings secured by Whereas, North Dakota has suffered less from loss of life by purchase of other lands were made during the summer and freezing, from epidemical diseases, during 1906-07 than many fall of 1904. Residence was established early the next spring - eastern states, and its death rate has been less than in any 1905. Settlers poured into the county by the hundreds, and at state in the Union; and the present time over 500 heads of families obtained their mail Whereas, North Dakota has made pro rata greater progress at the Mott postoffice. Mott is on the north fork of the Can­ in wealth and population than any state in the west during the nonball river, six miles east of the center of Hettinger county, past five years; and and was established two years ago. Whereas^ North Dakota has coal mines, if operated, sufficient to supply the entire people of the United States with The topography of-the country is undulating with long fuel for years; therefore, be it slopes, and as a general thing farmers can plow from one end Resolved, that North Dakota needs no defense; that in the of the field to the other, there being almost an entire freedom magnitude of its new investments; in the increase of wealth; from stone. in the creation of new cities and towns; in the development of Revived activity began in eastern Stark county two years its commercial interests; in the industrial progress made; in ago, and the country south of Richardton, up to section 20, the rapid and unparalleled immigration to this fertile state township 137, was settled up. From the latter point to the South during the past five years, and which will continue to come, Dakota line there was only an occasional rancher. At the makes it stand without a peer in the United States. Be it fur­ present time seventeen townships in the northeastern half of ther Hettinger county are all settled up. Resolved, that we are proud of our state, and the certainty of • its brilliant future, and at no time in its history have we had According to the records of the U.S. land office at Dickinson, greater confidence in its future growth and prosperity than at there have been 2,600 homestead entries made in Hettinger the present time. county since June 1, 1904. In the majority of instances the new Resolved, that the thanks of the people of North Dakota are settlers have minimum holdings of 320 acres, and this year extended to the Minneapolis Tribune, Minneapolis Journal these holdings have been added to. and the Commercial West for their liberal offers. The south central part of the county, reaching out to the D.R. Streeter south fork of the Cannonball river, is attracting the attention F.B. Chapman of prospective buyers and homesteaders - one inducement T.D. Casey besides the proven riches and productiveness of the soil is the Committee. proposed Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul company's ex- tention from Evarts to the coast. Another railroad attraction North Dakota magazine, June 1907. which prospective settlers see as a means for the convenient shipment of their products is the proposed extention of the Northern Pacific from Mandan and which it is presumed will go through Mott. The stakes are set within eighteen miles of the town. A week ago or so there was a crew of twenty-five engineers camping near Mott. Information is given out that the line is to be surveyed along the north fork of the Can­ nonball from the east side of the county, and the survey party is now more than two miles west of Mott. So far little has been done in the settlement of the western half of Hettinger county, but a few holdings have been secured in southwestern and 47 southeastern corners of the county, where it is said counties, the settlement of wild and untamed prairies, the there are exceptionally fertile tracts. breaking of new soil and the bringing into existence of new Very largely the settlements are made up of American wealth- counties - Adams, Hettinger and Bowman. speaking people, native born and mostly of German descent There is the most wealth where there is the greatest op­ from the states of Wisconsin, Minnesota, South Dakota and portunity. There is the most freedom and independence where Indiana. A prominent charateristic is the exercise of thorough the homeseeker may purchase his acres at a moderate price hospitality - the homes and tables are always at the disposal of and wrest from them the elements that go to make happy legitimate travelers, and a refusal to stop for the night is, to homes, prosperous communities and independent men and say the least, disappointing, for they seem to love to have a women. Such are the opportunities and conditions that prevail guest at the table. The permanent character of the home in North Dakota today and such are the things that attract buildings is notable and the new settlers seem to entertain no homeseekers from the east, from the middlewest and from all speculative ideas - their principal concern appears to be the parts of the country, where men stand shoulder to shoulder as perfecting of attractive and comfortable homes. equals and where effort and energy alone are necessary to Striking features of this new Eldorado are the abundance of give every man his own. practically free fuel and good water in plenty. A good quality Three counties have been created in North Dakota this of lignite coal abounds in all directions, so that the labor of spring. Three vast territories, with countless thousands of hauling is not great for any distance. Excellent water for all acres of fertile land, with flowing streams, rich grasses and purposes as available at from twenty to fifty feet, and boundless opportunities have been sealed by the state with its tributary to the north and south fork of the Cannonball there assurance that the frontier days are over and that the land is are numerous creeks where cattle may be watered ad libitum. prepared to return to the people its share of the products of the field and farm. A new county has been crossed by a tran­ Already at Mott, notwithstanding iis remoteness, the far­ scontinental line of railroad, seeking by another tie to bind mers have trading facilities. One general store carries a well the east to the west. New towns have been created and new assorted stock representing an investment of more than opportunities have been opened to the overcrowded east. The $6,000, and there is a spacious livery and feed barn and a first beneficence of the government has given farms to thousands class blacksmith. Just as soon as the organization of the of settlers whereupon they may achieve wealth and happiness. county will permit steps will be taken to secure school The very prodigality of the region has made opportunities for facilities. There is a Methodist church, a Lutheran and the home seekers to add from land of OPPORTUNITY. Traverse Roman Catholics expect to complete the erection of a church the state from end to end and from side to side. Observe the edifice. It is stated that the opposition to the organization of wealth and the great average of prosperity. Note that there Hettinger county has been withdrawn, and with the county are no poorhouses and no millionaires. Note that no man is in properly officered, there will be stimulating influence along need. Note that for seven years there have been no lean all lines, especially education. harvests and that there is no line circumscribing the op­ In the northwestern part of this county is located the portunity of the land owner. Learn that wealth has been thriving little town of New England, which is a trading point achieved from the soil so often that the story grows old and for the contiguous territory with an abundance of en­ need no repetition. And learn from all this that any state in the couragement for the future. With the bright prospect that the union or any land in the world, and the explanation of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul railroad will pass through this movement of land seekers westward is not difficult. thriving embryo city, its inhabitants are buoyed up with A few years ago and the great regions now embraced within great hopes. the counties of Adams, Bowman, and Hettinger was given Few if any counties in the state furnish such golden op­ over almost altogether to cattle grazing. The rich, black soil portunities to the homeseeker as does Hettinger. As yet produced grass of a superior sort, that matured on the ground unorganized, abundance of cheap lands, a fertile soil, boun­ and supplied nutritious feed in the winter as well as in sum­ tiful crops and glowing prospects for a marked advance in real mer. The movement of settlers westward was in its infancy. estate values next year, when the railroads will reach it, There was little knowledge of the broad prairies west of the present to the newcomeers an excellent chance to make Missouri river, awaiting only the industry of the husbandman money on investment in very short time.(l) to make them productive. Cattle roamed in immense herds over the entire region, finding plenty of food on the prairies (l)North Dakota Magazine, Published monthly by W.C and clear, pure water in the streams by which the territory is Gilbreath, Commissioner of Agriculture, Bismarck, North traversed. At regular intervals the round-up wagons of the Dakota, Sept. 1906, Vol. I No. 4. cattle owners followed the established trails, gathering beeves for shipment or attending to other duties incumbent upon the bonanza cattlemen. At infrequent intervals there was the cabin of a homesteader or a small ranchman - the pioneer of this great region - who had broken a limited acreage and was NEW EMPIRES IN NORTH DAKOTA blazing a way for the homeseekers to come. Deer, antelope North Dakota Magazine - June 1907 Vol. II and other wild animals fed unmolested upon the prairies. The Indians were aware of the richness of the territory and The North Dakota Magazine has from time to time set forth traversed it on their hunting expeditions. But to the great world the history and progress of the state of North Dakota. It seeks it was a comparatively unknown tract, as regions of Iowa, in this issue to set forth to the inquiring peoples of the east and Nebraska, Minnesota and other states had been in the course the middle west a chapter in the development of a new state. of settlement and development. For forty miles on either side It seeks to show how the homeseeker is moving westward, and of the Northern Pacific road every other section was owned by what rich reward is being achieved by his fearlessness, his the road, having been granted in aid of the building of the road courage and his independence. And nowhere can this be done across the continent. Cattle were driven many miles to the more effectively than be setting forth the creating of new railroad and grain hauled over many weary miles of prairie 48 road to shipment. And yet notwithstanding these obstacles the thriven. Their barns have grown like those of the eastern early settlers thrived and grew wealthy and gradually the country of frame or stone with shingled roofs. There is an richness of this territory became known. The railroad excellent class of horses for farm work. Nearly every farmer disposed of its immense land holdings in large tracts to has his drove of swine, looking fat and thrifty. In many cases private owners. Reports of the possibilities of the new there is a band of milkcows, and butter and cream add to the territory were sent out to the world. Gradually the advance of revenues of the homesteaders. For years there has been a settlers encroached upon the new region. The soil was proven succession of fair crops and in some years bumper crops. An to be rich loam, capable of producing splendid crops. The air of thrift and permanency prevails through the entire prairies were dotted with the cabins of homesteaders. From a region. School houses have been built, and there are churches territory comprising millions of vacant acres in the early and others of the buildings that indicate permanent set­ nineties, the vacant government land was reduced to a tlement. Such conditions, prevailing through Stark county, comparatively small amount. New towns sprang up, even in prevail in the newer country in Hettinger county, and the new advance of the railroads. Newspapers were established, banks town of Mott, the county seat, bears all the evidence of thrift, started, lumber yards placed lumber at the disposal of set­ prosperity and permanency. The Grand river, the Cannonball tlers, and the territory came to be reclaimed from the fron­ and other streams flowing down to the Missouri, water the tier. The wave of settlement advanced continually. And today entire country, and there are rolling priairies that will before the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul railway is traversing the many years be the center of settlements as thrifty and heart of this region with its trans-continental line, that cuts prosperous as those of the eastern and better developed states. directly through Adams and Bowman counties and means that The same conditions prevail through Hettinger county and the settlers will have adequate railroad facilities and that into Adams, down to the Indian reservation line, where the millions of fertile acres will be made productive railroad enters North Dakota and extends northward and and wealth-producing. westward to the Little Missouri river and on into Montana to There is no region more promising at the present time than give the settlers the advantages of adequate railroad these new counties. The land is a rich loam, gently rolling, facilities. The road will be completed and in operation some well watered and easy of cultivation. There are big op­ time in September next. Following the line of the Milwaukee portunities for the farmer or the stock raiser. The building of road; there is a succession of fertile valleys and basins, the railroad means that he will not have to endure the spreading for miles northward and westward and inviting only privations of settlers in a purely frontier country. The industry and thrift to bring competency. moderate cost of land means that he may own a home of his Everywhere we travel on the main road leading from the own, capable of sustaining him and his family in comfort. The Northern Pacific southward we find homesteaders moving out organization of the new counties means that he will have the to their claims, making practically a continuous caravan of advantages of local self-government, that his children may pioneers and homebuilders. In the new towns of Mott and have school opportunities and that there will be social op­ Hettinger we find various business enterprises projected or in portunities afforded by permanent settlements and growing course of completion. Plentiful rains have made the soil moist towns. and tractable and grain fields have begun to grow green and The rush of settlers to this region has been in progress for promise an abundant harvest. Adams county is entirely a several years. The desireable nature of the land has attracted homesteaders' county outside the land grant of the Northern many homemakers from the middlewest and the east. Almost Pacific, and all of the land is open to settlement except those perceptibly the nature of the country has been changing, until sections reserved to the school lands of the state. It is the now it would not be recognized by those who knew it before its southern part of the old county of Hettinger and the land is of redemption from the the prairie began. So large has been the the same agricultural sort, well watered, the soil rich and increase in population that there was a vigorous demand on fertile, and it will in a few years be among the wealthy the part of the new settlers for the advantage of county counties of the state. organization, in order that schools might be established and The graders of the Milwauke road are at work in the state and the development of the county not retarded by the absence of are proceeding rapidly westward from the reservation to means for local government. Following the organization of cross Adams county and reach the Little Missouri river. In­ these counties there has been another wave of immigration to dustry and thrift are everywhere. One grading outfit was this new territory. And still there is wide opportunity for the removing from 1,500 to 1,600 cubic yards of earth in a day and homeseeker to obtain a home, to achieve comfort and in­ the progress of the grade was as rapid as the best efforts of the dependence and to break away from the difficulties of earning grading crews could make it. Not far from the beginning of the his livelihood on high priced lands, paying high rents and grade a reservoir was being built, to impound the waters of the seeing his ideals of independence grow farther and farther prairies and capable of storing some eighty-five million away. gallons. The policy of creating these reservoirs is being From Dickinson, Richardton, Mandan and other towns on carried out where the work is feasible and the country will the Northern Pacific there has been a continual travel by benefit from the impounding of surplus waters, giving oc­ automobiles in the past few years, to bring the new country casional immense lakes and water supplies. before the attention of landseekers. Twelve years ago in the On section 20, township 22, range 16, in South Dakota, just country south of Dickinson there was the beginning of a across the line in South Dakota, the town of Lemmon is being Hungarian settlement, in sod houses, and the land was established, to be the county seat of a new county of seventy cultivated in a limited way. These settlers met with the usual townships in South Dakota, showing the general nature of the reverses of first settlers but they persevered. The very un­ settlement and development. settled nature of the country made it seem forbidding. Today Twenty-two miles west of Lemmon, on Hiddenwood creek, is their sod houses have given way to stone and frame houses, the town of Hettinger, the county seat of Adams county. It is comfortable and substantial. Their cultivation of the soil has the center of a fertile and arable territory and rapidly building brought them bank accounts and the funds to improve their up. It is not so very long ago that wild lands in Cass and Barnes farms. Their herds of cattle and horses have enlarged and counties were sold at low prices, when the Northern Pacific 49 railroad was building and settlement was sparse. In the "There is a rancher living one mile wes/ of me who has 1,000 evolution of the region, the lands doubled and quadrupled and sheep, 75 head of horses and about 35 head of cattle, and he has further increased until today the farmer who owns a half not fed 100 tons of hay during the last three winters. He never section is independent and all around him are cultivated puts up more than 30 or 35 loads in the summer. Why I say farms with valuable improvements. The development of the summer is because we can make hay here any time in July to new country west of the Missouri river and along the new road the last of February, and you can cut it in the spring and it is is similar to the evolution of the territory along the Northern just as good as if it had been cut the previous July. Horses will Pacific. The settler who today gains a half section or a section eat it and do better on it than horses fed on good timothy hay/ of land will be the substantial land owner of the coming ten in the east. years. His land will increase in value and his improvements "But I cannot get it through my head that it is right to work will continue until, before he himself realizes the change, he horses all summer, and when the work is done in the winter, will have seen the frontier period pass and the era of settled turn them out to graze and not see them again until the next and stable values take its place. For nowhere are the pospects spring. But that is the way it is done here, and the horses look for agriculture and stock raising more alluring than in this better than mine, which are kept in the stable and fed in new territory. eastern fashion. While Adams and Hettinger counties are rich in possibilities "When I started for North Dakota I had hardly seated for the settler seeking a home, they are not surpassed by the myself in the train when a stranger took a seat beside me. He rich territory being opened up in Bowman county. The North wanted to know where I was going and I told him. He was a Dakota Magazine presents with this article a number of views land for the northern part of Wisconsin, and I had been taken through Hettinger county, showing the turning over of pointed out to him when he got onto the train, as one who was prairie sod, the new buildings being erected, the schoolhouses going to North Dakota to buy land. and other permanent edifices being erected and other features of the development of a rich, new agricultural territory. "He told me he had been all through North Dakota; that he and the nature of the country will insure a had land there, but that nobody could live there. That there development of the state seldom equaled. There will be homes were such storms in the summer that the people had to live in for hundreds of thousands of people, there will be elevators dugouts, and if one saw a cloud in the sky you were to go for and business houses, work for all who desire it, homes for all your dugout as fast as you could. And in the winter during the who seek them, and, in fact a new empire of settlement will be blizzards one could not get out of the house for three or four created in the western and southern part of North Dakota. weeks at a time. He also stated that it was impossible to raise grain, for it never rained. That potatoes would not grow because there was frost every month. These are the stories (Omission pertained to Bowman county.) which you hear in the east every day, and the eastern papers are just full of such nonsense. ARTICLE BY AN EARLY HETTINGER COUNTY MAN "That man's talk made me shiver, but I had bought my The following article appeared in the Jan. 1909 issue of the ticket and what to do I did not know. I told him I was going to North Dakota Magazine. The writer of the article, Mr. John North Dakota anyhow. That I wanted to see the country Baumhardt, an early settler and land owner of Hettinger myself, and if I was not then satisfied, I would come back and County, homesteaded the southwest quarter of section 22, look at his land. When I saw the country, I put him down as a township 134, range 92. The family later became early Mott man who did not speak the truth about North Dakota, and you residents for a time, living in the third house north of the will find many more just like him. Methodist -church. "When I reached Richardton I went to the office of a land company, with several others, and we were sent out to look for land in charge of a locator for the company. We went about AN IDEAL COUNTRY forty miles south of the town. At that time there were but four Under the above caption Mr. John Baumhardt describes his settlers in that whole country besides the ranchers. These impressions of North Dakota in the Northwestern settlers had come the previous fall and had not had any chance Agriculturalist, Minneapolis: to do anything. Well, there was the prairie and all that could be "I would like to give my experience in North Dakota, if in seen were droves of horses, cows, and flocks of sheep. doing so I can help my fellow men who are trying to better "We had spades in our wagons, and we began digging in themselves and get a home. But I want it understood that what different places in the prairie. We found good black soil I have to say is not for the benefit of any land company, but about two feet in depth, with a good clay subsoil, and good simply to try and help those who are seeking to better their running streams largely fed by springs. It was an ideal ran­ conditons. ching country, but I did not see why it would not be good "I left Wisconsin March 15,1905, and arrived at Richardton, farming country too. If it did not rain (as the Wisconsin man Hettinger County, North Dakota, two days later. When I left had said), how could the grass grow for the thousands of cattle Wisconsin it was snowing and the roads were blocked with and horses and sheep that I saw on the prairies? snow so that they were not fit for travel. On reaching North "I filed on a homestead of 160 acres and bought a half sec­ Dakota there was no snow and the weather was warm, and all tion besides my homestead, and then went back to Wisconsin a kinds of stock were out on the prairies getting their own living, satisfied man, but I am better satisfied now than I was then. and I was told by the owners that it was not customary to feed For at that time I could only hope the country was all right, but stock in the winter. Did I then believe :t? Not much. No more now I know that it is, and that is way ahead of my own ex­ the people in the east believe the same statement now, but it is pectations. a fact that stock owners never think of feeding horses, cattle, "I can raise anything here that I can raise in Wisconsin and and sheep, except at occasional times when it storms, etc.; more of it, acre for acre, and you cannot beat this south­ then the sheep, especially, are fed western part of North Dakota for diversified farming, I don't 50 care where you go or where you come from. Come and get a farthest developed and that without as yet a foot of railroad in start in the world with a little money. It is just the place for the the county. Hettinger county was organized in April, 1907, with man who rents in the east. Think for a moment of the money 32 townships of which one-half was unimproved homesteads that a renter pays each year for land. It would make the first and the other half raw prairie land owned by thousands of payment on 160 acres of land here. different investors who were not slow to see the value of land in "Don't think we are not able to raise a crop the first year, for this new farming region. we can. Wheat generally yields from ten to twenty bushels on In the barely 18 months since the county was organized the spring breaking; oats fifteen to thirty bushels; speltz fifteen to strides that have been taken are almost incredible. The county thirty bushels. Flax will yield from eight to eighteen bushels has built five large, steel bridges, graded miles and miles of per acre. If a man comes here, say by the middle of March, roads, culverted all the ditches and streams that formerly with three or four horses, he can put in from seventy to one made teaming a burden at some times of the year, have built a hundred acres. I put in seventy acres the first year I was here, court house, jail and sheriff's residence, have built and are and most any man can do as well as I have done. operating 72 schools and most of them were running all last "I have been here three years and I have not seen a blizzard year, schools that are a credit to any commuinity, com­ nor an awful wind storm. I do not claim that we do not have modious, healthful, artistic and all painted. snow storms and winds, but they are not half as bad as some These improvements have been made by the 7,000 cranks in the east will try and make you believe. You hear of inhabitants of this fertile county who have only been here and tying ropes from the house to the barn, so you can get out to permitted to add their share to the growth of the county in the take care of your stock, or you will get lost in the blizzard. last two years. Hettinger county now has over 74,000 acres What nonsense. I believe ropes are needed more in the east for under cultivation, being 27,000 acres more than any other such purposes than they are here. There they have their six or county west of the Missouri river, except Morton county, seven months of winter, and we have only six to seven weeks which has over four times the territory of Hettinger. This of winter. turning over of the sod indicates the industry of a set of thrifty "Where the eastern farmer pays from $8.00 to $10.00 for a eastern farmers who find that this land, cheap as it is, raises ton of coal, we pay $2.00 a load, and the load is all two horses bountifully and compares very favorably with their former can draw. We figure on two tons per load, and the coal is eastern farms. There was raised in this county in 1907, 139,463 loaded onto your wagon at the mine for that price. If you dig it bushels of wheat, 196,836 bushels of oats, besides 58,022 yourself it is free. From eight to ten ton ten loads will last you bushels of flax and much other grains, not to speak of over a year, and you need not economize with it, either. 21,000 bushels of potatoes, and these figures are more than "I have said there were but four settlers in Hettinger county doubled from the 1908 crops, though there are no statistics when I came here, and now the prairie is dotted with compiled for 1908 as yet. buildings. In the township in which I live there are only three The farmers are a hustling lot of humanity and nothing if not to four quarter sections that are left to be sold. We have over up to date. Demand has built over 50 miles of telephone in the sixty school houses in the county. I think that is going some past year with numerous farmer lines, has installed one rural when three years ago there was almost nothing but the bare route and a number more are under consideration, has prairie, and now there are thousands of acres of grain raised. provided twelve postoffices in the county for the distribution of The time has come when people know a good thing when they mail and two daily and three tri-weekly stage routes. The see it. You are not buying a cat in a bag out here now, for you county is rapidly becoming dotted with large and substantial can see the crops for sale. We have just as fine drinking water farm houses and commodious barns and the indication of as you have ever known. The wells are from ten to one hun­ prosperity, which on every hand surprises the new comer, dred feet deep. show that the development is no boom but is a steady growth "I think this is an ideal country. You cannot find one out of a that is here to stay. hundred who is not well satisfied. I say, get out of the old rut Indications point very strongly, and it is here considered on and come and enjoy the prosperous country with the rest of us good authority a settled fact, that a branch line of the Nor­ while the land is cheap and you can get a homestead. I hope thern Pacific railroad will be built through Jhe entire length of that what I have said will be the means of bringing some this county this coming summer. Movements are on foot and poor renter to North Dakota to the land that flows with milk are being rapidly pushed for the establishment of three and honey. creameries in the county and in general the natural resources "John Baumhardt." of the county, the ease of farming, the heavy natural vegetation, and fertility and the many coal mines make a county that is unsurpassed anywhere. HETTINGER COUNTY The town of New England has grown from a stopping place North Dakota Magazine - January 1909 to a thriving little city, with two pleasant hotels and a proportional number of stores and other business houses, As this great State of North Dakota is so rapidly developing including a hustling newspaper, and there was recently added in every nook and corner, the almost impossible strides with a new opera house and dance hall. Horswill, too, has taken on which the Missouri Slope is advancing cannot fail to attract an urban appearance, adding a restaurant and dance hall. attention. In the past eighteen months, four new counties have And Mott, the county seat: is hardly recognizable as the been carved out of what was formerly thought to be a desert, same place that greeted the eye two years ago. Where were fit only for livestock ranging, and these four counties present a only four buildings then, the spectator can now behold 50 or thickly settled, farming community of probably 25,000 more substantial, white painted buildings, a veritable white inhabitants and a community which surprised the political city, with its 15 or 16 business houses and many dwellings, 200 interests of the state at the past election by casting nearly inhabitants and many other evidences of permanent set­ 3,000 votes that were never known in the state before. tlement, not among the least being the Mott Pioneer Press, a Of this large and recently developed territory, Hettinger paper that would be a credit to many a city numbering county represents the pick as to country and people and is the inhabitants up in the thousands. 51 It takes but a very few days spent in this county toconvince a there is raised every year more feed than is used in the county, thoughtful observer that Hettinger county is fast travelling on oats, barley, and speltz, all of which yield very abundantly. its road to take a place among the strong farming com­ But one of more recent experiments in this county is the munities of the state, and within a short space of three or four raising of winter wheat. It has been almost uniformly suc­ years more it is destined to stand second to none in the cessful and is being planted in largely increasing areas every amount of land under cultivation and in the amount of crops year. It has everywhere, where planted, gained a big start raised. We only want time enough for our hardy settlers to over the spring wheat and yielded two or three times as much, turn over the balance of virgin prairies which are now so bringing in enormous returns. Of the past five years, one was dotted with the evidence of civilization. There is practically no with too little snow for the best results to be expected from waste land and every effort put forth brings results and in­ winter wheat, but at that it yielded fully as good as the spring come. Hettinger county today and Hettinger county eighteen wheat. We believe it is one of the most valuable grains of this months ago are as different as the Garden of Eden and the country and will in time be largely sown. Desert of Sahara and still the progress has just begun. Among other crops that have proven valuable are alfalfa and timothy. These two are still in the experimental stage, although there are a number of good fields that have thrived for three years, and alfalfa yields every year three good crops HETTINGER COUNTY while timothy is fed and pastured until snow falls. They too are North Dakota Year Book -1910 valuable assets for mixed farming which is most successfully practiced in western North Dakota. Western North Dakota is the best small grain producing The wealth stored up in the soil, ready to be snatched by the section of the United Statesand the county of Hettinger in the eager tillers of the soil could not long escape the eyes of the east of this territory and in the now famous Cannon Ball railroads and now this county, settled and developed at a great Valley is without a doubt the cream of the Missouri Slope. It is distance from railroads, has attracted two of the greatest made so by the excellent soil, a dark clay loam, eighteen in­ systems of the United States. ches to three feet deep, underlaid with a heavy clay subsoil, The Northern Pacific Railway from Mandan to Mott was and by the progressive and hustling citizens who are so completed October 14th, a part of the projected coast line from rapidly subduing the virgin soil. St. Paul to join the main line at Miles City, Montana, all of The contour of the county is in general, gently rolling, and which is now completed except about two hundred miles. The well drained. It has no mountains, no sloughs, no waste and line built is of the best, the best grade, the best material and useless land, but it all will produce bountifully with the labor all indicative of the high estimation of the value of our county and industry of its citizens and every section will support its which is placed on it by the men of wealth behind the full quota of population and raise the grains that support the railroads. This railroad runs east and west across the county world. The Cannon Ball river runs thru the county from east to in the south part. Also running full length of the county from west with its gentle sloping drainage for miles on either side, the southeast to the northwest, along the Cannon Ball river, we the richest soil in the world. now have the Chicago, Milwaukee and Puget Sound Railway, a branch from McLaughlin, S.D., to New England in this county. The county has been organized only four years and has only Both roads run daily trains, carrying daily mail, and have within the past six years been claimed from the grasp of the found it necessary each month to take on additional help to cattle man and rancher and turned into the best improved and handle the volume of business. best tilled county in the state. Of the 724,000 acres in the county The county seat of Hettinger County is located at Mott, now more than 104,000 are now under cultivation and the one an incorporated village of 1,000 inhabitants, grown in four hundred steam and gasoline plow rigs in use in the county are years from an infant of 25 people. It has graded streets, is turning over hundreds of acres every day for the profit and surfacing the streets with cinders and gravel, is putting in prosperity of its laborers. The county has a population of water system, is lighted by electricity, and heated with native nearly 7,000; it has no paupers and no idle rich, and all are coal. It boasts of a creamery that ships butter to feed our less happy and prosperous. All were happy when they hauled fortunate city brethern, of a new high school now under con­ supplies and building material forty miles overland and all struction, to cost $40,000, the best in the western part of the are happy and now more prosperous when the two railroads in state, of three excellent parks, a fine stream of water used the county bring cheaper supplies and higher prices for extensively for boating, swimming and other pleasures, along products, and, as evidence during the past year, hundreds of which is an incipient park that has no equal in the state, with sod shacks used as the first shelter have been replaced by a park drive on either side of the river for one-half mile, of a large and substantial farm buildings, all paid for out of profits dozen flowing wells of fine water, of the best hotel in the from the rich and fertile soil. western part of the state, and stores,dwellingsand other im­ provements that would do credit to many a town ten times its Hettinger County is one of the largest growers of hard wheat size. With the hustling and busy lot of business men with which in the state and for that matter in the United States, the crop the town is populated, the ideal agricultural country for 20 to year after year ranging from 15 to 25 bushels to the acre with 30 miles around, immediately tributary, it is one of the best no fertilizer or labor other than ordinary careful cultivation. towns in the state and destined to be one of the largest. The land needs no irrigation and no drainage; there is not a The village of New England, the terminus of the Milwaukee foot of either irrigation ditching or drainage pipes in the road thru the county and 30 miles west of Mott, is another county. large and thriving town, the outgrowth of a prosperous and Probably the next largest crop is flax, raised on old land and thriving county adjacent, drawing trade from far into both newly broken sod indiscriminately and yielding 7 to 15 bushel Stark and Billings counties. A town of 700 inhabitants, it is a to the acre with only ordinary care. A crop can be raised every town that for volume of business, for refinement and for its year beginning with the first turning over of the sod. Of course general appearance of prosperity would put many much 52 larger towns to shame. Situated prettily on the banks of the Cannon Ball river, in the midst of the very best land in the state, this town is rapidly forging to the front. The people are proud of their two newspapers with generous circulation, three banks, many stores and professional men, of their electric lights, and many municipal improvements and other evidences of a high class and refined civilization. Other towns in the county of note are Regent also on the banks of the Cannon Ball and on the Milwaukee railroad, in about the center of the county, which has grown from a bare prairie a little over a year ago to a town of over 300 inhabitants and is still adding buildings and business enterprises as fast as carpenters can erect habitations. Every line of business is represented and the town is a good exponent of the prosperous country surrounding. Bentley in the extreme eastern part of the county and Havelock in the west, both of the Milwaukee road, and Burt Early settler's family. Mr. and Mrs. Ben Phillips, Lily, just east of Mott on the Northern Pacific are all good Margaret and Wayne outside their sod house. Note the live towns and are growing rapidly, less than a year old but grindstone beside the house. making a very loud noise. The schools and school system of Hettinger County have few equals and no superiors. The eighty buildings are well located, no child having to go over three miles to attend, all buildings are substantially built, well painted, and have school seven to nine months in the year, with the best teachers that money can procure. The county is also well represented in religious lines, with many church organizations and some twenty church buildings, including the Methodist, German and American Congregationalists, German and Norwegian Lutherans and German and American Catholics. In short this county of Hettinger, so shortly ago considered one of the infants of the state, is now of the most prosperous, advancing and wealthy in the state. It has an assessed valuation of over two million dollars, even with many acres of unimproved homesteads, tho every quarter has its actual settler and, more than that, actual farmer. The county organization is on a cash basis, no outstanding warrants; the soil is of the best; the rainfall between 18 and 20 inches an­ nually, and crops are bountiful, nature seeming to have done her most to make this, the last part of the state to be developed, the best. It is a pleasure to live in a country where the soil gives up wW

Population December 1, 1907, estimated 10,060. (1) (1) Mott Pioneer Press, March 9, 1907. George and Minnie Auer. 53 The impact of the crop failure of 1910 was not especially great, but in 1911 when spring crop prospects looked pretty BURT bleak, building activities slowed up considerably. However, in May of that year, J. H. McMillin, who had a restaurant, put up There is very little in the village of Burt at the present time a large two-story hotel. This was later sold to Elmer Harvey to remind one of the thriving and bustling town it was at one who operated it for several years. The building was last used time. There had been a need for such a town until changing as a hardware store and during the year of 1970 was torn times brought about its decline. down. In 1910, when the railroad was approaching Mott, a vast area in the county to the north was waiting for a closer marketing area than those along the main line. The Lee Walker homestead, the northeast quarter of section 6, township 133, range 91, was a convenient location about the proper distance from Mott; consequently, Mr. Walker platted 1 a portion of this land in the spring of 1910, sometime before the tracks were laid, and had it filed as the town site of Alton. Soon / • after, Ray Conklin, formerly of Mott, purchased the townsite. A partnership of Walker and Conklin was thus \ established with Mr. Walker the resident manager. 1 r, ^toW* Ik Homestead of a young bachelor, Ted Kruse. Ted was wounded at Chateau Thierry, July 19, 1918 and died Sep­ 30HN MERCANTILE Cc DEALERS IH tember 23, 1918 at Tours, France. tAL MERCHANDISE LUMBER 6- MACHINERY " ' = FfTii

The Bohn Merchantile Store at Burt in 1910. Picture credit: Mrs. Delia Filing.

Because the name Alton was found to conflict with Alton Jet., a town in the eastern part of the state, the name was subsequently changed to Burt in honor of Supt. Burt, superintendent of this division of the Northern Pacific Railroad. About forty lots were sold in private during the summer, but due to the changing of the name, no public sale was held until late in December. Several business establishments were formed that first summer of 1910: The Bohn Merchantile Company, general merchandise; Pioneer Grocery, G.W. Boysom, owner; Pool Hall with lodging upstairs; Nillis & Peterson; Restaurant, J. H. McMillin; and a blacksmith shop, C. Baker. December 24, 1910 about two hundred people gathered to attend a public sale of lots that had been advertised. A big free dinner was given everyone who attended the sale. The Zentner Band, composed of members of the Anton Zentner family living north of Burt, furnished music for the occasion. Forty lots were sold that day and one lot in every ten was given as a Christman gift by the land agents, Walker and Conklin.

Several new buildings were put up after the first of the year, not waiting for spring to come, even though it was a cold winter: Anton Zentner, a meat marker; Walker and Conklin an ice house and livery barn; and Bohn Merchantile, a lumber yard and implement warehouse. Wheat loading platform. Burt, N. Dak., 1916. 54 Right to left: Ed Ellertson, Mrs. Ellertson, Mabel Ellertson (Mrs. John Wakefield). Out of state visitors. Taken by John Wakefield. Note the dusters and scarfs worn for touring car riding. Bridge on Cannonball south of Burt.

Burt elevator going up in smoke. Harvey and Boknecht Grain Elevator, 1917. Courtesy Mrs. John May.

Chamberlin's store. Shown are Mr. and Mrs. Cham- berlin and sons Elsmere and Arnold, Clara Peterson, Mabel Smith and Mrs. C. E. Bern.

June 18, 1911 was the date of the Old Settlers' Picnic at a given location agreed upon each year. This picnic was held at Burt. The Picnic was an annual event. It was held held at Burt June 18, 1911. 55 the Congregational, German Lutheran, and Catholic. The Reverend Alex Douglas, a Congregational minister, came from Mott to hold services in the first school building in town. A Union Sunday School was organized and also met in the school house. The adults of the community were well represented at these meetings. Drives for membership carried on as a contest between two captains resulted in swelling the attendance. Early in the spring of 1911, the business men of Burt Organized the Burt Commercial Club. Seventeen progressive and enterprising men who had always been boosters for Burt became charter members of this organization. These men, working for the common good, were responsible in a large measure for the growth of the community. The scope of their activity, however, extended beyond the immediate vicinity to the participation in any movement tending toward the development of Hettinger County. The Commercial Club proved to be a live organization. In their work and devotion to the cause they attacked the task of molding the beginning of a Burt Sunday School picnic. Front Row: Arnold new town into a growing and prosperous community. Chamberlin, Helen Bysom and Murry Dean Walker. Back Listed on the following two pages are the names of residents row: Bernice Bysom, Nellie Walker, Roscoe McMillin, of Burt, who lived there at some time or other during the years and Efford Bern. 1910 -1920, inclusive. Some names may have been overlooked.

The Burt Echo, a weekly newspaper, opened its office early Mr. and Mrs. George Bysom Mr. and Mrs. Lee Ressler in the year with Elmer (Shorty) Meyers as editor. He was Baby followed sometime later by Morton Little. . Mr. and Mrs. J.H. McMillin The Burt Opera House was also built during the summer by Hosford and Roscoe Mr. Truman Mars" a stock company. It was a 30 ft by 70 ft. building with a 16 ft. ceiling - the largest hall in Hettinger County at that time. The Mr. and Mrs. Frank Barns Mr. and Mrs. A.L. Chamberlin wide awake people of the community used this building to LeBerta, Irvin Myrna, Elsmere and Arnold great advantage in holding entertainments sponsored by and Earl various organizations, bazaars, Thanksgiving festivities, Mr. and Mrs. Jacob Zentner Christmas programs, dances, etc. Eventually the building Mr. and Mrs. T.B. Hitch was sold and moved from its location on the higher ground at Mr. and Mrs. Johnny Moy Beulah, Thelma, and Murray the north end of main street near the present state highway, to Ava, Cecil, Francis, and Reed the location where Herb Boknects' home now stands. It then became a large grocery and dry goods store, which changed Mr. Herbert LaRose ownership from time to time, always serving the community Mr. and Mrs. Joe Obert well. Mr. Karl Mueler The country school three fourths of a mile from town was Mr. and Mrs. Chris Baker moved in. Miss Bernice Bysom was the first teacher and was Miss Jennie Bohn followed by Mr. Frank Jache who taught the school for several Mr. Carl Rink years. Mr. and Mrs. Alvin Bohn Durard Mr. George Bysom became the first postmaster. The post Miss Minnie Auen office was housed along with his groceries, dry goods, and Mr. and Mrs. H.T. Risty millinery. The Bysoms were very congenial folks and con­ Mr. John Flagel sequently the store became a favorite gathering place for Thelma, Howard and Gladys people who drove in from the country for the evening mail. Mr. and Mrs. Carlyle Bysom Mr. and Mrs. Wm. Toepher Bysoms moved from their home a mile south of town, and had Helen, Isabel, and June living quarters in the rear of the store building. Mr. and Mrs. Morton Little An incident that occurred one time is called to mind. A trap Mr. and Mrs. Einar.Pederson Bobby door in floor giving entrance to the cellar was in direct line Mr. and Mrs. L.H. Blinderman between the middle room and the kitchen. Mrs. Bysom on Mr. and Mrs. Elias Ferguson Benhie, Rose, Mayme, Jake, leaving the store to go to darkened portion of the house, where Kenneth and Marjorie the trap door had been left open and forgotten walked directly Leo Frank, Fannie and baby. into the empty space and dropped into the cellar. Mr. and Mrs. J.M. Stoner Mr. Bysom on hearing her scream, ran to her assistance. As Mr. and Mrs. Goldman mentioned previously, the room was dark, so he, too, fell into Mr. and Mrs. Sam Walker Abe, Max the cellar. Sam Walker, who was in the store also, heard Mr. Nellie and Myrtle Bysom cry out following the cries of Mrs. Bysom, and ran to Mr. and Mrs. Kuhl investigate. Needless to say, he too, dropped in to join' the Mr. Frank Jache Glenn other two. Luckily no one was badly hurt. Mr. and Mrs. Paul Bohn Jr. Three religious denominations were represented in Burt; Viola and Loretta Mr. and Mrs. W.W. Jaynes 56 Mr. CM. Shaw Mr. and Mrs. Roy Hubbard Mr. and Mrs. Lee Walker Mr. and Mrs. Fred Wichman Jessie, Clyde, Hilda and Fay Walter, Clarence, Aneta, Viola Mr. and Mrs. Whitford Mr. Ted Kruse Baby Mr. and Mrs. Ernest Heinrich Mr. and Mrs. Reuben Buehler Helen, Catherine, Phyllis, Mr. and Mrs. B.O. Bucholz Ella Lois Mr. and Mrs. Charles Ray Hazel and Caroline Merel, Bruno, Ordway, Richard Theo Mr. and Mrs. Wm. Armitage Miss Ruth Hibelink Miss Marie Madsen Art, Eddie, Lottie, Glenn Mr. Ed. Peterson Leon, Levictte, and Lyle Mr. and Mrs. L.H. Conradson Mr. and Mrs. Jim Hill Mr. and Mrs. Jacob Hirning Bessie, and Delia Mr. Otto Boettger Henry, Eddie, and Mathilda Mr. and Mrs. Nick Nillis Mr. and Mrs. Lester Peterson Martha, Clarence, Pearl Mr. and Mrs. Ed Roth Mr. "Slim" Bobeen Fern Peterson Mr. Ray Emmett Mr. and Mrs. Ben Philips Mr. Andrew Newberger Mr. and Mrs. Ben Arndt Lilly, Wayne, Margaret Baby Miss Amelia Holtz and Claude Mr. and Mrs. Dominac Klein Mr. John Daily Mr. and Mrs. Norman Gregorson Mr. and Mrs. Myron Mr. and Mrs. J.C. Schleicher Eiienp. and Helen Vaughn Almira, Curtis and Celeste Mr. and Mrs. Elmer Harvey Rose, Mary and Myra Mr. and Mrs. William Stiles Mr. and Mrs. Sam Hatcher Walter, Mabel, Doris, Laurence, Merrill, Virginia, Kenneth, Mr. and Mrs. Mil.e Myers and Maud. Johnnie and baby. Rosabelle, Helen, Lucile Mr. and Mrs. P.S. Gutensohn Phillip, Charles, and Elmer Mr. and Mrs. Frank Armitage Mr. and Mrs. D.S. Helms Eugene, Oliver, and Donald J™. Earl, Virgil and Mildred

The George Bysom house still stands on the original county road south of Burt. Brown Collection Courtesy location alongside the Cannon Ball and on the present State Historical Society of North Dakota. 57 BENTLEY

Bentley, North Dakota July 31, 1911. This young town already had a prosperous business section as well as several fine homes not shown in the picture. Frank Kelsch picture.

The original post office of Bentley was located on the NW VA Sec. 4 - Twp. 133 - R. 92 in what is now Adams County. A.A. Bentley operated a store at this location and his mother was post mistress. When the Milwaukee railroad came through in October of 1910, a townsite had been located on the SWV4 Sec. 13-133-91. This was the previous site of an early LP. Baker Company cattle ranch. Mr. Bentley was given an interest in the townsite and was permitted to bring the post office to that location. He Also established a grocery and dry goods store with A.A Radke and Clark Lindsay as partners. This wis a long, narrow building that extended the full length of the'lot and was ap­ propriately called "The Long Store". A side door led to the grocery section while another entrance facing Main street opened to the dry goods area, and in fact, to the entire store. In December of 1910, Mr. Frank Hunkler was appointed the The A.A. Bentley Store in its original location on Sec. 4- first depot agent for the Milwaukee railroad in Bentley. There twp. 133, R. 92. In the early days of horse and buggy was only a small shack along the track that was used for a transportation, this inland store and postoffice served depot. At that time the Columbia Elevator on the south side of homesteaders in the area very conveniently. the track was operated by John Huber; and the Western naevator, Duilt a little later, was managed by Frank Wehsner. • Several other buildings were built in 1910, and in 1911 many . * Cream Buyer - Frank Hunkler business establishments were in existence: . * *\ Dray Line - Chas. Dickson and Clark Lindsay. J Ice House - A.A. Radke. The Bentley State Bank - Max Hendricks, cashier. The Farmers' State Bank - Harry Galloway, Cashier Later the following were added: Bentley Photo Studio - F.L. Hunkler. Consolidated in 1912 Botten Bros. Hardware and Implement - Barber - Wm Staudacher. Real Estate - Mr. Downing. Physician and Pharmacist - Dr. Otto A. Berger. Pioneer Drug Store - Andy Johnston. Blacksmith and auto Repair - Frank Meirose. Capital Pool Hall - Mr. Bailey. Barber Shop - Harvey Redding. Charley's Cafe - Charles Burrows. Pool Hall - Peter Kleinjan. Hotel Grand - Fisher. Light Generator - operated by Gilbert Olson. Barber Shop - Mr. Davis. Bentley Equity Eschange - A.A. Radke Drug and Jewelry Store - Chartier and Shelton. Contractor and Builder- Sylvester Short. Bentley Merchantile - Gust and Alice Gretschman. from time to time changes in ownership took place: The Livery Barn - G.W. Hubbard. two banks were consolidated in 1912; Botten Bros. Hardware General Merchandise - Bentley, Radke, and Lindsay. and Imp. was purchased by Matt Sippert and eventually Peter Shoe Shop - Alva Hiers. Kleinjan and Otto Meyer; Druggist Andy Johnston moved to Bentley Bulletin - Jack McCausland. Regent in 1911; Harry Little operated the Capital Pool Hall. McCall Lumber Yard - Frank Runyan. Later, the building was rented by A.A. Radke and used as a Carpenter Lumber Company - Ray Farley. store. The upstairs was leased by the Home Guard and served Cannonball Lumber Company - P.B. Spizer and A.Aman as headquarters for officers Sam Boyd and Wm. Rate. Later it Blacksmith - Fred Zimmerle. was leased by the Modern Woodmen of America for en- 58 tertainment purposes and dances. Lawrence Welk, Mack's meeting ever held in Hettinger County took place in the town Band, Joe Keller's Night Hawks, and the Mott Melody Boys hall when the Hettinger County Democrats met to perfect a were among some who furnished music; The Bentley Mer­ county organization. Many forefront leaders and members chantile was sold to Gotlieb Gross and Christ Gross; The were in attendance. A Union Ladies Aid was organized in Livery Barn was sold to Geo. Gains who ran a dray line. Later about the year 1912, and the Home Guard in 1918, with officers Herb Kleinjan purchased it, and finally Pete Kleinjan took Sam Boyd and Bill Rage stationed there. Bentley had its own over; J.J. Huber and Meidinger Bros, purchased the Can­ light plant before the highline came through. A good tennis nonball Lumber Co.; Fred Zimmerle sold his Blacksmith Shop court afforded recreation. Home Talent plays were produced to Frank Wehsner. Blacksmiths that followed were: Sam and a never to be forgotten Masquerade Ball sponsored. Later Hatcher, Matt Lynch, and Fred Hoherz; Geo. Crary became on Play Day was held each year. Fourth of July was Cream Buyer, then Pete Kleinjan, and Arnold Meyer; Chas. celebrated each year in Bentley's early days, and quite Dickson purchased the Dray line with Clark Lindsay as frequently, the Old Settlers' Picnic. partner. It was finally sold to George Griggs; Pete Kleinjan bought the Pool Hall and later sold to Lawrence Kelsch. Wm Huber purchased the building and set up a lunch counter in addition to his barbering. Later he went into the grocery business, housed the telephone switchboard and post office. Mrs. Huber then became the postmaster.

The livery stable was an important business in every Hettinger County town in the early days. The one shown here was located at Bentley. Frank Kelsch picture.

By September of 1910 there were several families living in Grocery department of the Bentley Merchantile store. Bentley, but no provisions had been made as yet for the Standing are Alma Belle Johnson, left, and proprietors, education of their children. Arrangements were made to have Mr. and Mrs. Gross. Frank Kelsch picture. them bussed to the countrv school two miles to the east of town. Lyle Osborne transported the fifteen children to and from school. There were already about that number of regular Twenty years after the founding of Bentley, the following pupils, but Miss Ora Meadows handled the situation quite well business places were in operation: until a new building in Bentley was ready for them and Miss Farmers' State Bank - Gus Ruana, cashier. Ethel Erickson had been, hired as teacher. Sippert Hardware and Implement - Otto Meyer and Peter The first pupUs were: Hazfel a'ntl Idamae Bentley, Newell Kleinjan. • ' Hamilton, Emmons and Alfred Botten; Frank, Irene, Helen, Fullerton Lumber Company - Af Ya*D6h. and Irving Rowland; Tomn% and Gladys Lindsey; Eva, Cream Station and Telephone - Mr. Flaten. Sebastion, and Lizzie Hagel; and Thyra Wilson. Columbia Elevator - Walter Huber. Bentley Equity Exchange - Carl Sayler. By spring 32 pupils had enrolled, and the new building, Fritz's Blacksmith - Fred Hohertz. which was the size of the country school they had formerly Meat Market and Grocery - A.A. Radke. attended, was just as crowded. In 1916 a new modern school General Merchandise - Christ Gross. had an enrollment of forty. Fourteen years later an addition Hotel - Helfrich. was built to accommodate three classrooms. By 1933 the Standard Oil Company - Bill Buchanan. school became a four-year high school. As a result of Post Office - A.A. Radke. redistricting, the school was closed and eventually the Pool Hall - lunch - barber - Wm. Huber. children were transported to Mott. In the early days of Bentley, Rev. Alex Douglas of the Nine years later, July 13, 1939, a fire destroyed four buildings: Congregational Church in Mott organized a church in this new Garage, Farmers' Cream Station, Sippert's Hardware, and town and served as minister for several years. A Union Ladies Grocery, and Farmers' State Bank. Aid was also organized. From the beginning, people of Bentley were very civic The Glueckadahl Lutheran Church was organized by Rev. minded. Of the early organizations there were the Bentley Landgrebe September 16,1916 and was served by Rev. Grill of Commercial Club, a baseball team, the Citizens' Band under Mott for a time, Services were held in the homes until the next the direction of Mr. Ansorge, and the Modern Woodmen of year when they secured the old Bentley school house. A new America. In 1911 perhaps the most interesting political church was built in 1919. 59 Throughout the years there have been seven postmasters; the community were happy to have a near-by market. 1910 and namely: A.A. Bentley in the Long Store; Corta Hiers in the 1911 crops were poor, but quite good in the following years and Bentley Merchantile Store, and later Alice Gretschmann in Bentley prospered. the same building; Albert Radke, who had the post office in his Within the immediate farming area were men with store for twenty years; Mr. Radke was followed by Mrs. threshing rigs ready to handle harvested crops. Kleinjan Bros, Albert Haselwood and Margaret Rub respectively. Alvera had a Case; Oscar Johnson a Reeves; Hopwood and Clagget, a Huber, the present postmaster, has served since 1944. Reeves; Adolph Moss a Minneapolis; Crarys a Flour City; One can well imagine all the activity connected with the Asa Morris a Flour City; Norman Gregerson an International; rapid growth of this town. It was well within the homestead Wm. Eikamp a Minneapolis; and Elmer Harvey had a rig. period when almost every even numbered section of land was All hired big crews, sometimes numbering twenty two men. occupied by four families. Crops had been good and people of These huge steam engines and large separators made quite an impressive sight and the countryside teemed with excitement and activity. We have given but the main highlights in the life of Bentley. Today it may seem incredible that the town could have been the thriving little city that it once was. It has been the victim of circumstances due largely to improved highways and the automobile that enabled people to do their business in larger places that had more to offer; but there were other factors. As children grew older, parents wishing to give them better opportunities, moved away. Then the crop failures during the depression, and the hard times resulting from the war played their part. People saw the handwriting on the wall and acted accordingly. By 1960 Bentley had a population of fifty one. Fourth of July celebration at Bentley In 1910. Horses But altho it is smaller, Bentley still serves the community were unhitched and tied to the buggy or staked along with well in having the post office, a rural route; the Equity the riding horses at the edge of town, while people walked Elevator and bulk gas station. Several families live there in about greeting friends and enjoying the sports and other pleasant and well-built houses and still live up to its old motto, events of the day. Courtesy Alvera Huber. "Make Bentley a better place in which to live."

The Citizens' Band of Bentley was one of the first Bert Davis, Mort Little, Mr. Bailey, Mr. Cate, and Ezra organizations in the newly located town of Bentley. The Little. Middle row: Fred Whesner, Myron Vaughn, Arthur success of the band was due to the excellent leadership of Struck, Andy Aman, Mr. Huntley, and A.A. Radke. First Mr. Ansorge and to the members themselves. Pictured in Row: Levi Paterson, and Alva Hiers. Picture Credit: the back row left to right are: Lyle Osborn, Mr. Ansorge, Miss Ethel Erickson. 60 REGENT

11 •• Hsfl Regent, a town bearing a beautiful and regal sounding name, parallels other towns established at the time of the coming of the railroads into this region, to some extent, in its origin; yet it had a distinct and unique character all its own. After grades had been built during 1909 and before tracks had been laid, railroad officials announced intended locations of future towns along the line. Some nearby inland post office in each case, accordingly moved to the indicated site. In this instance, J.O. Horswill moved his store and post office from his hpme on section 30, township 135,range 94 to the new townsite of Regent along the Milwaukee grade. For the time being the post office retained the name of Horswill and many new business establishments were founded. They consisted of the following: Regent Supply Co., General Merchandise, John and Wm. Bassford General Merchandise, John A. Lien General Merchandise, J.O. Horswill First State - A.C. Goldtrap, Cashier Citizens Bank - C.J. Heen, Cashier Regent State Bank - Harry Brown, President, C.R. Connel, Cashier Ma Caull-Webster Lumber Co., grain and lumber, Mr. Martin, Manager Regent Grain Co., grain, lumber and farm implements, The popularity of ball games in homestead days is evidenced John P. Jungers Manager by the large attendance shown in part in this picture of May Regent Livery - A. Bowlby, Proprietor 19, 1910. Hotel Juliet - Lewis Johnson, Proprietor Regent Cafe, Willis and Cornell, Proprietors Mission Pool and Billiard Hall - E. Holt, Proprietor Regent Meat Co., - Huffman and Ahern, Proprietors The Regent Times - Weekly newspaper, Herschel James, Editor and Publisher W.G. Billyard - hardware, sheet metal works, and harness G.W. Hollenbaugh - Notion store A.B. Switzer - hardware and harness E.F. Stewart - Drug Store A.J. Simon - Lodging House A.J. Simon, John Tercey, H.W. Gibson, L.P. Hagen, M. Ahern, Contractors and Builders The laying of the railroad tracks was completed in October of 1910. The townsite was surveyed in 1911 and buildings were moved on to it from the other side of the tracks nearest the Cannonball river. Regent was located in the center of a huge trade area. The The Cannonball River, a short distance east of Regent, gently rolling, rich farm land had been settled by farmers who overflowed its banks in the spring of 1912 bringing high had already become prosperous. The tremendous business water into the town itself. they generated resulted in the rapid growth of the town which soon became a rival of the two older towns of the county. 61 HAVELOCK Havelock is another of the towns that originated when two branch line railroads extended into Hettinger County in 1910. The Chicago, Milwaukee, and Puget Sound Railroad wished to establish a town between Regent and New England. Homesteaders were occupying the territory at the time, and railroads recognized their need for a town. Two hundred acres of land were purchased by the railroad company for the townsite from E. W. Adams and son Walter in 1909. It was located six miles east and four miles south of New England, and four miles north and nine miles west of Regent. Highway 21 lay four miles to the south.

The loading platform of the Havelock Fuel Company. Havelock was rich in coal mines. Pictured here is a shaft Owners at the time of this picture were Fred Griswold, mine owned by George and Oscar Austin. A horse was Charles Rafferty, Bill Gardner, and Frank Wagendorf. lowered down the vertical mine entrance at the beginning of Standing left to right: George Austin, co-operator; Bill each working day. Kunze; Adam Neider; Oscar Austin, co-operator; and The dreams of the coming of the railroad were finally Everette Heath. realized on November 10, 1910 at 10:00 A.M., and Havelock then began to grow. The lumber for the first grain elevator was unloaded a few days before Christmas in 1910, and the structure was erected by the Regent Grain Company soon As in all instances when a new town is in prospect, the after. This became known as the Farmers' Elevator when the question arose as to what it was to be named. Two Adams farmers purchased it in the fall of 1913, and operated it until brothers and four sons each had'a homestead in addition to a the time of its burning in 1924. The elevator had the distinction total of 960 acres of land near the townsite. The name of being the first in the state to pro-rate, under the Adamsville naturally was suggested. The name Adrian in management of Raymond Larson. honor of the first baby born in the new town was also con­ The Empire and Western elevators and a livery stable were sidered. Eventually, the name Havelock was decided upon by added to the town in 1913. The prosperous year of 1915 resulted the»railroad company, in honor of one of the company's men in the addition of a lumber yard and a hardware store. These who was an English lord. were operated by the Venturis. Lumber Company. It had not In June, 1909 soon after the townsite had been platted by the been the intention of the railroad company to build a depot at railroad company, E.W. Adams erected the first building Havelock. However, Senator Alex McKenzie, North Dakota's which was to be used as a store and post office. It was com­ political boss, because of his friendship with one of the Ven- pleted fully enough for the 4th of July dance to be held in it. In turia Company's men, used his influence in securing the depot August, E.W. Adams became the first postmaster. Until for the town. A Mr. Hock, the first depot agent, met with a October of 1910, Mr. Adams brought the mail each day by tragic accident that resulted in his death, while coasting on the horse and buggy from New England. By the time of the hill north of town, with the townsfolk, on New Year's Day in Depression years, this building had been moved twice and 1917. operated under twelve different managers. Other buildings added to the town during this prosperous Another store building was erected in 1909, by Otto year included two banks, a hotel, butcher shop, pool hall, Halvorson. This building and a pool hall to the north of it, both restaurant, furniture store, garage, and many homes. The burned to the ground in 1916. For some time, Havelock con- German-American newspaper, which began its publication in sister of only the two stores in addition to a house built in 1909, 1910, was edited by D.F. Abbey. Later it was named the on the north side of the railroad track on the John Adams Havelock Journal and operated by James Fulton until 1918. farm. The Adams house was used for public gatherings, and The first church and parsonage were built in 1916 under the school entertainments were given in the rural school a mile guidance of a Moravian Missionary minister. It was sold to the west of Havelock. H.O. Knuze bought the Adams house in Congregational Church in 1923. Charter members were: Mr. 1915. It was moved to several different locations. Finally, it and Mrs. Harry Coddington, Mrs. C.N. Vincent, Mrs. was situated close to the road on the left side as one ap­ Florence Roe, Mrs. Roy Rew, Mrs. Charles Rafferty, William proached Havelock from the west or north. Jones, and R.F. DeLaney. 62 The Special School District, said to be the first of that classification in North Dakota, was formed when the territory to the south, northeast, and northwest of Havelock were taken into the Havelock District. A consolidated school building was erected on a hill to the west of town. It was reported that when John Adams, one of the school directors, asked for three acres for the school grounds, the townsite company objected saying, "Chicago did not want more than that." The reply was, "We want more room here than they have in Chicago," The request was granted. Miss Sexton was hired to be the first principal, and the school was ready for occupancy following the beginning of the New Year in 1919.

This stone ranch house was built and occupied by Jeff Farrah, a squatter. The house was still used when the land was homesteaded by the Adams family. The house was still intact when the Oscar Austins purchased the land. The little girl in the foreground is Linda Austin. evidence on Mr. Austin's property. Many Indian curios have also been found. Indications are that the campsite for some reason, was vacated hurriedly without giving the Indians the opportunity to take their possessions with them. Havelock has experienced the same fate that befell the many small towns at the time of the Depression. A bustling, mt * ^"5sH0HMsl happy town filled with enterprising people who worked hap- A dramatic fire in January of 1940 burned to the ground the Havelock Consolidated School that had been built in 1916.

Havelock's greatest material assets were her coal mines. The first settlers secured their coal from the east bank of the_ Cannonball River at a point about a mile from town. Homesteaders came from far and near to load and haul their fuel, supply. At times, numerous coal mines were in operation. Three of the well-known coal companies were the Havelock Fuel Company on the west side of town, the Quality Coal Company to the south of town, and John Wienandy's Mine east of town. These mines afforded a livelihood for many people of the area. Old residents of the Havelock community recall the picnic grounds across the river from the old coal bank. In the near vicinity was the famous early day ranch site of Jeff Farrah. The ranch was sold in 1904 to the Baker Outfit, a well-known, large cattle company. The sod house was the early home of Mr. and Mrs. Pete According to reports, when E.W. Adams came to the area Nesja and family. Adults left to right are: Mrs. Gunder seeking a homestead, he filed on a quarter section before Austin, Mr. and Mrs. Nesja, and Mrs. Nesja's mother. The seeing it. When he came to take possession he was refused picture was taken about 1907. admittance by the foreman, Ed. Connoly. Mr. Adams did not press the matter until he returned to New England and pily together for the common good, declined rather rapidly as established the fact that the buildings were actually on his a result of changing times. land. He was then in a position to return to the ranch and order the foreman and cowboys to vacate the premises. Source: Federal Writers' Project for North Dakota The ranch, which was the home of the Adams family for Data given by Mrs. Charles Rafferty with the help of John many years, now belongs to Mr. and Mrs. Oscar Austin. Some Adams, CM. Hunn, Mrs. Emily Hasbrouck, and Charles remains of the well known rock corral that was commonly Rafferty. used by cowboys from the surrounding territory, are still in State Historical Society of North Dakota 63 NEW ENGLAND

In the fall of 1912 when over two million bushels of grain were marketed, New England became known as the world's largest primary grain market.

Because of the distinctive character of its history, New England merits wider coverage than can be attempted in these pages. Circumstances under which the area was settled give it a character similar to that of the early colonization of our country. The settlement was much earlier than that of any other portion of the county and is unique in the manner in which it was accomplished. The Rainy Buttes Sentinel, a paper published by one of the first settlers, whets the imagination as to the nature of this early community. From the pages of this early newspaper we learn that a group of people from the New England states, primarily from Vermont but including some from almost all the states in that group, following the tradition of their English-born forefathers, left their homes in search of a new region in which to establish a colony. An association was formed early in 1887,

- 1T a I - iff llEClc/JI ,/ The burning of an elevator is an awesome sight. This elevator at New England burned in December of 1914. and the directors Thomas Bricknell, John B. Mead, David A. Elevator row and train in its hey day. Waldron, L.A. Dodge, and H.N. Bruce made a tour of Dakota Territory in search of a suitable location for their colony. The place selected was on the Cannonball river in western Het­ tinger County.

64 An advance guard set out from Dickinson on April 21, 1887 to locate a site for the new town. We are told that it took twelve hours for them to travel the twenty seven miles in an old buck- board. They stopped at the home of George Muzzy which was a •tVSK. few miles west of the proposed townsite, where they spent the night. They then set about to survey and locate the exact townsite. •*"**'& •• •*'

... • •'_.-».»-

The Cannonball at New England and some nearby buildings in the early days of the town.

On June 13, 1887, also, according to the Rainy Buttes Sen­ tinel,the association held their second Town Meeting. Their purpose was to draw up articles of Home Rule. No money was to be spent except by majority vote, and officers were elected A very early picture taken at New England shows river to serve a term of three months without salary. crossing by teams during high waters. Fording rivers was a The councilmen elected were; F.H. Gibbs, E.M, Fisher, J.B. necessity in this area before bridges could be built. Mead, C.A. Sweet, and C.H. Pond; Clerk, F.T. Chester; Treasurer, E.B. Patridge; Commissioner of Streets, H.C. The first group of settlers, under the leadership of L.A. Philbrick; Superintendent of Schools, F.H. Clark; Auditors, Dodge, arrived at sundown on May 3, 1887. One might well Dr. E.M. Holt, Rosecoe Fisher, and C.R. Pendergast. imagine the difficulties encountered in traveling and getting "Live and Let Live" was the motto of the association. settled out on the raw prairies at this time of year. Providing An interesting account of the first 4th of July observed by for shelter was begun immediately, a community garden these early colonists was taken from the July 2, 1951 issue of plowed and plar.'.ed, a well dug, and groceries and supplies for the Dickinson Press and reads as follows: the new store brought in. On June 11, 1887 the New England Colony Association was Monday, July 4, 1887, the citizens of the New village left founded. Frank H. Clark, an attorney, the temporary chair­ town about 9 a.m. in a procession of rigs, wagons and on man was assisted by M.L. Ayers as secretary. The Hon. T.W. horseback to journey to Rainy Buttes. Charlie Mead took the Bicknel of Boston was leader of the group and David A. lead but shortly John Dobson's conveyance full of females and Waldron, of Providence, Rhode Island, director. L.A. Dodge small fry hauled by three ponies abreast galloped ahead and was corresponding secretary. At this meeting the Messers the race was on with Pendergast joining in also. They stopped Pond, Holt, Fisher, and Clark testified they were happy to at the Indian mineral springs for a respite. Bridges and Dix have cast their lot with this new project. then had a spirited horseback race with the latter winning. The following people had been in the vicinity about a month The next stop was the big cold spring at the foot of the Big when they signed a testimony of their happiness in being in Butte. All refreshed themselves and picketed the horses. The this site: visitors were amazed at the huge veins of coal which were E.B. Patridge and Emrna Plymouth, Vermont visible. Everyone loaded up with the picnic supplies and made John D. Dix Plymouth, Vermont ready to climb the mile trail. The path was flanked by wild Chas. H. Pond Manchester, Vermont flowers and fruit bushes, many tasted the luscious June Roscoe Fisher Brattlebore, Vermont berries for the first time and pronounced them first rate. E.M. Fisher Brattleboro, Vermont They reached the pleasant plateau where they spread their S.M. Estey West Drummerstown, Vermont lunch from ample hampers the women folk had packed. After Chas. A Sweet Bridgeport, Connecticut resting it was announced that a prize would be given the one to Wm.P.Kirby Lincoln, Vermont reach the topmost point first. There was still about 100 feet to F.H. Spaulding St. Albans, Vermont surmount of a precipitous rock. J.H. Bridges Charlotte, Maine M.L. Ayers - Montpielier, Vermont Everyone scampered about trying to find the best way up. F.T. Chester Springfield, Massachusetts John D. Dix won in 12 minutes flat, many took a good deal E.M.Holt South Woodstock, Vermont longer to work their way up to a flat topped rocky prominence. Frank M. Gibbs North Bellerica, Massachusetts Here President of the Day, Keene took charge. Bridges was H.A. Gibbs North Bellerica, Massachusetts the marshall, Patridge and Ayers the toastmasters, Bruce and H.C. Philbrick Plymouth, Vermont orator and Keene directed a choir of the Misses Gibbs and Delia F.Perry Sullivan, Maine Dobson. Roscoe Fisher had the honor to unfurl the American C.R. Pendergast Lowell, Massachusetts flag out over the countryside for the first time and everyone H.J. Sutton Hinesburg, Vermont was touched as they watched it ripple in the breeze. All sang Frank H.Clark Felchville, Vermont the patriotic anthems of their country. Keene read the Before the end of June several others had joined the colony. Declaration of Independence in a stirring manner. 65 After supper they packed up and made their way home. The festivities concluded with a swimming match at the Cannon Ball River in a 300 yard dash, the winners: Patridge, Clark, Dobson and Ayers, in that order, the judges were Cheny and Philbrick. The cornerstone for the first church was laid on July 31, 1887. By this time there were 50 families in the area; a store; a bank, the Hettinger County Bank at New England City; and a newspaper, the Rainy Butte Sentinel, which was the first plastered structure in Hettinger County. I ii u ii IIV"-

The W. C. McKenzie Department Store shown here is now a part of St. Mary's School.

Security State Bank at New England. Early New England.

The church, prefabricated and sent out from St. Paul, was erected the same fall. When the colony was abandoned 2 years later, the building was converted into a store. W.C McKenzie took possession in 1901. Later, when the building burned, it was replaced by a stone structure and eventually became a part of St. Mary's school. Later in the summer of 1887, a hotel was built by an old sailor, Capt. Perry. The property was later acquired by H.W. McKenzie. The building, eventually sold to W.L. Gardner, continued to remain in the family and is known as the Riverside apartments. The first permanent store building, a two-story structure 20 by 40 feet, was erected by David A. Waldron. E.B. Patridge and John B. Dix were the first storekeepers. The first school building was a stone sturcture erected in •MssKW. -Mr IsMBBMMBsMMT,. 1887 in the southwest part of the village on the east bank of the Cannon Ball River. M.L. Ayers, publisher of the Rainy Butte The Gardner, one of the very old buildings in New England. Sentinel, was the first instructor.

The venture of this early colony, although off to a good start, lasted only two years, but it marked the beginning of the known as the world's largest primary grain market. Pictures present thriving little city in western Hettinger County. The of its many elevators standing along the railroad tracks and coming of the railroad in 1910 gave rise to the operation of silhouetted against the prairie sky were published far and seven large grain companies. In the fall of 1912, when over two wide, bringing fame to the oldest settlement in Hettinger million bushels of grain were marketed, New England became County. 66 Inland Post Offices And Towns

Inland post offices, generally in connection with country family moved to Willa at the close of the school term in 1914 stores, sprang up naturally in early days where there was a and lived there until October 1922, when they moved to Burt. definite need. The first of these in Hettinger County was: The greatest need for inland post offices occurred from the Chase, named for O.S. Chase, a prominent rancher of that time of Hettinger County's organization to the coming of the time. It was established about 1900 in the Mott Precinct with railroads. In 1907 there were the following: Mrs. Chas. Mutschellknaus as the postmistress. Mail was first Alden on the the southeast quarter of Sec. 14 of Alden received from New England, but later on, a Star Route out of Township (133-95) John A. Lien, postmaster. Hebron. Berry on the northeast quarter of Sec. 8 of Solon Township Willa, originally named Rosenfeld, was also established (134-91) Wm Berry, postmaster. before organization of our county and was also the last of the Hoosier on the northwest quarter of Sec. 12 of Mott Precinct inland towns to remain in operation. Wm. Hendricks, postmaster. The name Rosenfeld given the post office in honor of Howser on the northwest quarter of Sec. 2 of Mott Precinct President Theodore Roosevelt, was established early in 1906 (134-93) by Miss Juliana Muller at her homestead which was the northeast quarter of section 6 of Walker Precinct (twp. 135, r. Horswill on the northwest quarter Sec. 30 of St. Croix 91). A Star Route was established to carry mail from (Old) Township (135-94). J.O. Horswill, postmaster. The post office Leipzig, then in Morton County. was later moved to the site of Regent. Inez on Sec. 24 of Campbell Township (136-93). About April 1, 1907 the post office was moved to the north west quarter of the same section where it remained first under Edton, another post office established in 1907. Sec. 26-134-95. the name of Rosenfeld, and later Willa, until it was discon­ Late1; inland post offices included: Acklin, Graber, Kennedy, tinued in 1931. This was on the homestead of J.J. Schmitt who and Coalbank. Church, named for the Church brothers, was a became the first postmaster at this location. Mr. Wilhelm continuation of Hoosier in 1910 and discontinued in 1917. Muller, a cousin of Juliana Muller, carried mail on this Star Route from early 1907 until the spring of 1913. Liberty was first established during the year 1908, in con­ nection with a country store, by Mrs. Jim Hopwood, post­ Conflicting names of Rosenfelt and Roosevelt, the latter an mistress, in the homestead house on the northeast quarter of earlier post office located in Wells County, resulted in mail section 28 in Cannon Ball township. being sent very frequently to the wrong town. Mr. Schmitt Liberty became somewhat of a gathering place for the wrote in to Washington D.C suggesting that the name of children of the community, especially during school vacation Rosenfeld be changed to North Star, since North Star Butte in summertime. They were happy to be sent on horseback or was in the locality. The Post Office Department, however, on foot to bring home mail and groceries since this afforded an gave it the name of Willa since North Star had already been opportunity to play for awhile with the Hopwood children and taken. This change in names became effective some time others who might be there for the same purpose. before July 1, 1907, evidenced by the fact that the North Dakota Blue Book, published on that date, had noted the Liberty served the the community well until the coming of change. the railroad in the fall of 1910. Prior to that time, Bentley was located on the northwest quarter of Section 4, Township 131, Mr. Schmitt operated the post office until 1911. At that time Range 92 of what is now Adams County. A.A. Bentley operated he sold the land, store, and business to G.J. Lemke. Mr. a store at that location and his mother was postmistress. When Lemke conducted the post office until 1923; then sold out to the railroad came through in 1910, Mr. Bentley was given an Wm. Lemke, his son-in-law. Mr. Lemke in turn, conducted the interest in the townsite on the railroad and he was permitted to post office until 1931, when it was discontinued. Three years bring in his post office to that site. He sold his store building to later he sold his store building and stock to Henry Weber who A.M. Miller, and the old Liberty post office located on moved it to a site near St. Placidus Church north of Mott. Hopwood homestead two and one fourth miles south and west During the spring of 1913 a rural route was established out of of the present site of Bentley, was moved to the old Bentley Burt and mail for Wila was delivered by Karl A. Meuler as post office site. There it operated under its old name of carrier. During Mr. Meuler's service in World War I, Wm. Liberty. Stiles substituted until Mr. Meuler returned. Mr. Stiles then The store and post office burned to the ground early in conducted a rural route out of Regent. October, 1911, but Mr. Miller succeeded in saving the post About the year 1914, two routes were established out of Willa office records and the first class mail. The Liberty post office with John A. Reiger and Gottlieb H. Schatz as carriers. Later was then moved to Sec. 31-134-92, Merrill township and Mr. Schatz conducted both triweekly routes. Will Post Office operated by Mr. A.F. Beasey. Later CM. Twitchel, an uncle of was discontinued in 1931 and Mr. Meuler took over the two tri­ Les and Ben Olien, living five miles east and six miles south of weekly routes in addition to his original route. Beaseys, took over until 1914 when a rural route was established out of Watrous. This little town of Willa served a large territory and supplied Watrous was a whistle stop on the Milwaukee railroad. Here the fundamental needs of the homesteaders, not only in a Mrs. G.K. Jordet was appointed postmistress but during her commercial way, but as a social center as well. In addition to absence Mrs. Frank Pew was acting postmistress. A route the store and post office, there was also a blacksmith shop and was established out of Watrous and mail carried by John Pew a hardware store, the latter two of which were owned and until he enlisted in World War I in 1918. John Chinn took his operated by Mr. Martin Sonnenberg. Mr. Sonnenberg also place and served until his death late in 1919. Albert Dill and acted in the capacity of dentist and as an undertaker. The George Bardell were substitute carriers. 67 When Mrs. Pew resigned in 1918, John Hallam was ap­ Rifle township was organized May 4, 1908. The name was pointed postmaster and he served until in 1921. L.H. Boknecht selected by drawing a list of proposed names suggested in served after his appointment until April, 1923 when the post honor of the township's early settlers, Christ W. Herstein, office was discontinued. The route was then consolidated with James Newkirk, E.J. Strang, and Charles W. Rifle. Early Bentley. residents of the township were Edwin W. Switzer, Hans P. An elevator was built and operated by the Watrous Equity Thompson, Herman Hartman, William Witte, Fred P. Kaiser, Exchange. After some years, A.E. Odegaard became the Fletcher B. Bayman, Mike Klupp, George Baley, Frank and owner and eventually the Mott Mill purchased it. At the Johan Lefor, Clyde J. Herstein, and George Dassinger. present time it belongs to Wm. Kelsch who uses it privately. Stanwick was another whistle stop on the Miwaukee line but Highland township was organized November 15, 1920 but it was discontinued after a short time. disorganized in January of 1934. It was named for Highland, Clay County, Iowa. R.L. Davis, a homesteader who came from Iowa suggested the name. It had earlier been named Senn for PLACE NAMES OF HETTINGER COUNTY early homesteaders John and Joseph, who came in 1900 and 1890 respectively. Some three months after the township was Below are listed place names of Hettinger county based on organized as Senn, it was referred to as the organized town­ data compiled by writers employed on the government ship of Highland, so if a mistake was made, it was rectified in historical project in 1939: this manner and known as Highland from then on. Eleven settlers still residing in 1939 were Anton Matz, Emerick Merrill township was named for Merrill, Wisconsin because Koenig, Ludwig Loran, John Hertz, Ed. Klein, Leopold Kern, a number of settlers came from that Wisconsin town. It was Olaf Johnson, Jacob Buckenberger, Kasper Greff, John Senn, organized as a civil township July 5, 1917. (Note: Some of the Nick Reinert, and the widow of Peter Siller. original homesteaders of the township were Knut Dahl, Gus Omet, Clarence McMillan, Sam Espeland, Ole Thoreson, Jud Upson, Chas. Gilbert, John Johnson, Abraham Johnson, Dan Kern township was organized November 18, 1918. It was Runkel, T.L. Meadows, L.A. Satler, Anton Zent, and Wm. named for Jacob, Geo., and Frank Kern. The Kerns were Rose.) among the first homesteaded in this township. In 1939 Helmer Breidal was the only one homesteader in the township Strehlow township was named for August Strehlow, an early who was still residing there. A number of Catholic students pioneer and settler of that community. It came into existence homesteaded in this township, among them being Basel Thum officially Mareh 2, 1908, as a result of a petition signed by who homesteaded in the SW Vi quarter of Sec. 24 and received Oscar Strehlow and 24 others, constituting a majority of the his training at the Richardton Monastery under Bishop legal voters. Among the original homesteaders in the township Wehrle. In due time, he was ordained a priest and Father were Hans Steen, Thor Enrav, Otto Fresonke, Phillip S. Zeren, Basel now (1939) is a pastor at the St. Steven's Church about 20 Herman Nelson, John Jung, W.F. Kramer, Theo. Gutensohn, miles north of Mott. Oscar Strehlow, Sr., C.C. Culver, Percy Strehlow, Mrs. CO. Johnson, and L.C Bonhoff. Kunze township was organized November 2, 1908. It was named for Mr. H.O. Kunze, a pioneer settler, homesteader, Chilton township also was named for a town in Wisconsin of farmer, and later engaged in real estate business. Mr. Kunze that name. Previously the name "Dayton" had been con­ homesteaded in 1902 on the SV2SV2 of Sec. 32. H.O. Kunze and sidered in honor of Edson C. Dayton, for whom the creek thirty others signed a petition for organization, making a had been named. Chilton was the fifth township in the county majority of the legal voters in the township. Very few early to be organized and came into existence civilly shortly after homesteaders were still residents, in 1939, of the township. the county was formed in 1907. Among early residents of the Among those were Mrs. Ida Kunze, widow of H.O. Joe and township wers Albert C. Wallace, Mel Austin, Fritz Nelson, JakeReiss, John Lenhardt, Frank Gyolai, Joseph Truth, Nick Hance B. Martin, Nels Yetterness, Mike and Andrew Fiedler, Nichols, Mike Gartner, Adam Koppinger, Albert Gotzke, and Jacob Schmitt, Claude LaGrav, and William Kost. Henry Bohlman.

Madison township was named for "Madison township, Polk county, Iowa. It began its official life March 2, 1908. It was St. Croix township was organized March 7, 1910. It was sometimes referred to as Graeber township as Jacob Graeber named for St. Croix in Wisconsin from where many settlers was one of the* early settlers there. It never had any other came. John Eveland and A.G. Lundeen, settlers, selected the official name than the one given when it was organized, name. John Gion, Mike Gion, J.S. Strang, Charles Lundeen, however. Among the families who came from the Iowa Knute K. Omdal, Melvin Amundson, Thrond J. Holter, F.J. Weinberger, Ole A. Faroos, Joseph E. Prince, John Borgen, township were the Graebers, Provolts, Newbys, Millers, and Arthur Elliot were early settlers. Blains, Jacksons, Coxes, and Brebakers.

New England township took its name from the town of New Ashby township was christened for R.A. Ashby, early England which in turn was named for the New England states. homesteader there. The township had first been named The directors of the New England Colony association who Pleasant Valley by Mr. and Mrs. Edward Kern, Mr. and Mrs. founded New England City, Dakota Territory, in April 1, 1887, Herman F. Schneider, and Mrs. and Mrs. Frank Wyman, were from the New England states, mainly Massachusetts, early residents, after the town Pleasant Valley, St. Croix Rhode Island, and Vermont. Some of the first homesteaders county, Wise, but on advice from the secreatry of state that were Theo. Belland, Albert Fredrickson, Herman Schobinger, the name, Pleasant Valley, had already been taken by a Soren Nelson, Paul F. Schmidt, John A. and Henry Bohnoff, township in Williams county, William Colgrove, then county Ivar L. Larson, CA. Stardig, and Robert Leacock. commissioner, suggested the present name. 68 The first school in the township was located on Mr. Ashby's Castle Rock Township received its name for the obvious land, on a tract he had donated for that purpose. At the time of reason that an unusual formation within its borders resem­ leaving for LaGrange, Kentucky, Mr. Ashby had been a bled a castle. It was organized March 15, 1913. Among early resident of the township about 30 years. Miss Stella Ashby, homesteaders there were Eugene Starks, Thomas Parsons, daughter of the pioneer, wrote the Pleasant Valley items for Ed Kjos, H.P. Larson, Ferdinand Kamrath, Elizabeth ths Mott Pioneer Press. While the consolidated school in the Boneshaw Trousdale, Ed Shelstad, Walter Roozen, Jacob township bears the name, Pleasant Valley, the voting precinct Jacobsen, William Green, and Ole G. Rogne. comprising the township is known as Ashby Precinct. Campbell township took its name from George. B. Camp­ Walker Precinct was named for Phenis D. Walker, early bell, early homesteader of that community. It v as organized settler in that section. The name came into use in 1912 when January 12, 1919. Campbell homesteaded the northwest the county commissioners renumbered and re-designated the quarter of section 32 of that township. William Colgrove took a different voting precincts in the county. Mr. Walker filed on homestead in Campbell township January 4, 1898. Early the southeast quarter of section 18-135-91, April 26, 1906. The residents also were Peter Lehret, John Biglor, Joseph Roth, name was suggested by L.H. Conradson, who was one of the John Miller, Jacob and Peter Jordan, Jacob Zimmerman, county commissioners to be elected at the first general Valentine Dahl, Peter Mayer, Jr., Benedict and Jacob Fried, election in November, 1908. Other early settlers were C.J. Luther L. Dobbins, Peter Mathis, Adam Trieb, and George Heinle, G. G. Goodrich, Fredrick Staub, Mary Plunket McCue, Kolling. Christ Lemke, Wm. C. Plunkett, Jacob Buttmann, August Oelke, Ethel Rawn Steig, Oscar H. Olson, Margaret Olson Matz, David Grey, J.J. Schmitt. Acme township, organized December 6,1910, was named at the first township meeting, the word being adopted as signifying "the top or best." A school established earlier was Tepee township takes its title from the series of conical called "Prairie Home", but the name Acme was suggested by shaped hills which resemble tepees. It came into existence as Adrian Rawlings. Other homesteaders in the township were a civil unit Oct. 3, 1911. The name was selected at a township Joseph Azuner, W.I. Bushart, John Roster, W.H. Church, meeting called for that purpose. In the early years the Tepee Maud and Gretta Batty, Erwin Roster, and Arthur Mc- Buttes served as a landmark. It was believed by the first Cullough. settlers that the name was originally given to the buttes by the Indians. Beery township was named to honor Robert D. Beery, first auditor of Hettinger county. Its organization date was March Kennedy township, organized March 1, 1909, was named for 2,1908. Some of the original settlers in the township were John Wm. H. Kennedy who had a store and kept the post office T. Wallace, David Utter, Seth Rawn, Nelson VanLishout, named Kennedy on the northeast quarter of section 34-133-97. Chas. F. Ebert, John Stern, Arnold Bannon, and Beery. The name was selected by vote at a township meeting. The name "Chanta Peda", the name of a creek running through the township was voted on at the same time. Kennedy had Cannon Ball township was named for the Cannon Ball river. established the post office and store on his homestead some It was organized October 5, 1910. The Cannon Ball river flows time prior to 1909. The mail came from Reeder on a star route through the northern half of the township. Some early and then the route went on to DeSart, N.D. Among early homesteaders there were John H. Yates, William Yates, Peter residents of Kennedy township who were still residing there in W. Kleinjan, Charles E. Bern, Terrence J. Ferguson, Floyd A. 1939 were Ole Stenmoen, H.O. Rustan, George Ott, Sigurd Crary, Henry Barry, and Otto Kibbel. It was in this township Jorstad, George Heidt, Anton Urlacher, William Jalbert, that the Barry brothers, Henry and Ed, ranched for some Peter W. Thomas, Julius Stolzel, Patirck Ryan, W. Tews, John time. The ranch buildings were located on section 10 of what Nestor, E.H. Metcalf, and Ed. Redetzke. now is Brittain township in the bend of the river. Henry Barry homesteaded the west half of the east half of section 20, Alden township was named for the town of Alden, Polk Cannonball Twp. county Wise. It was March 11, 1908, John A. Lien had con­ ducted Alden postoffice on the northeast quarter of section of the township before its organization. Among early settlers of Solon township was christened for Solon Wood, a blacksmith that area were Oscar Krogh, James Sadler, Peter Husfloem, who lived on the northwest quarter of section 22 of the town­ Anto Christenson, Palmer O. Hegge, John E. Olson, Arne ship. It was organized June 25, 1915. The township was Arneson, Henry E. Johnson, Goodwin R. Larson, and L.P. dissolved in March, 1932. The name was selected by a group of Hagen. petitioners for organization. Three Democrats, Louis H. Boknecht, Nicholas Nellis and William Himes suggested the Brittain was christened in honor J.K. Brittain, vice name "Wilson", in honor of President Woodrow Wilson. president of the Wm. H. Brown Co. It was organized July 18, 1916. Some of the township's early settlers were W.T. Odessa Precinct, unorganized or Congressional township, Wakefield, Rasmus Husby, Marshall Phillips, Math Kjos, and was named for Odessa in Russia because that was the Russian Otto Christenson. city to which most of the early settlers of the precinct had had to go in Russia to transact business and from which most of Farina township, which became a civil unit April 15, 1911, them entrained for the United States. Among the original received ints name because many of its early settlers came settlers were Michael Bertsch, Jacob Gunsch, Fred Hirning, from Farina, 111. Among the early residents were John Phillip Harsch, Hanry A. Leno, Frank Rokusek, John Bertsch, Kamka, George L. Tooker, Presley Switzer, Abby B. Switzer, Henry Auch, Martin Knittel, Andrew Schatz, and Chas. E. Herman J. Schlenvogt, William H. Coffing. Schutz. Steiner Precinct, unorganized township, took its name from Havelock township was named for the town of Havelock a family of that name who settled there in 1908. They were which in turn was named for an English lord, one of the Leo, Fred, Joseph, Ed, Pius, Nick, and Frank Steiner. At­ Chicago, Milwaukee, and Puget Sound Railroad Company's tempts were made at one time to form the precinct into a civil men. It was organized August 14, 1911. Some of the early township, but the names of enough petitioners could not be settlers were: E.W. Adams, John Adams, Wesley Adams, procured. Later the matter was voted on and the proponents of Harvey Adams, Gunder Austin, Martin Austin, Edward organization lost. Other early settlers of the area were Carl Erickson, Albert Borchert, Joseph Becker, and Iver Sander. Haberstroh, John Reigel, Theodore Patyk, Leonard Lantz, John Plunkett, Xavier Dauenhauer, Lorentz Wolf, Robert Schaff and Jacob and Wilhelm Ottmar. Mott township was named for the town of Mott. It was organized March 1, 1945. Some of the early settlers were: Chas. Mutschelknaus, Andrew Ensley, Peter Derby, Jacob Wagendorf township, organized April 12, 1912, was named Barth, S.O. Skartvedt, Geo. Klein, Catherine Luchsinger, John for a homesteading family of that name. The name was R. Voegeli, Nels and O.H. Opland, J.B. Stanfield, Henry selected by Anton Hoveland, George Nass, and Frank L. Buehler, John Van Veghel, W.H. Hendricks, Oscar Covert, Wagendorf prior to circulating a petition for organization. The Wm. H. Schlengvoght, Wm. Toepfer, Henry Shoemaker, H.A. voting precinct comprising the township was known for years Ogline, Ross Arrowsmith, A.W. Bohn, and Paul Bohn, Sr. as Bambusch, a pioneer settler there. Other early homesteaders were O.A. Lein, George Nass, Hans Olson, John Davidson, George Shern, Adam Scharick, Emanuel Ruether, and Philip Urlacher.

Indian Creek township was named for the creek of that name which traverses it. It was organized March 2, 1908. The first name contemplated was "Buffalo" but was found to be already in use as a township name in Cass county. This name was suggested because of a butte within the borders of the township whose contours resembled that of a bull buffalo. Among the early settlers were Jacob Wilhelm, William A. v f^M %>* Rust, George D. Bartholome, Samuel Hoffman, Mons Nelson, and C.E. Woodruff.

Baer township, was named for a cartoonist, John M. Baer, a cartoonist for the . Bernus Soli selected the name. Eagle was suggested because quite a number of t Barbeque in 1910 to celebrate the coming of the black eagles come to make their home in the rocky hills and railroads. Left to right: Maurice Ditter, B.O. Thorkelson, buttes in the township, but the name had been claimed by Theo Cumber, George Brockmyer, Fred Pietz, and another township in the state. Some of the early residents George Riley. Photo by Win. H. Brown Company. F.W. Knaus, Geo. and August Beisigl, Marie Treichel, Anna Courtesy of State Historical Society of North Dakota. Erickson, Clay Cook, Adam, Peter, and John Kelsch, Bernus Soli, Wm. Whitsel, G.A. Dennison and E. Willnow.

Clark township was organized October 3, 1911, and named for Churchell J. Clark. It was officially organized under the name of Clay. It was changed because of a mistake in the contents of the petition into the record of the minutes of the County Commissioners proceedings, as the name of Clark was poorly written and mistaken for Clay. No resolution making the correction can be found, but in January 12, 1912, when the commissioners renumbered and redisignated the various voting precincts this township is referred to as Clark, which shows that the mistake was discovered even tho not officially corrected. Albert Stagl, Joe Rettinger, Peter Blum, and Henry Ostensen were still residing there in 1938.

Freighting into Mott in 1910 from Richardton. Remodeling Black Butte township was organized March 1, 1909. Some of the Mott Supply Store building. the early settlers were: W.H. Dorgan, D.S. Allison, N.J. Nelson, Thos. Dotterman, Adopph Jacobson, W.T. Griswold, T.P. Thompson, Z.E. Reese, John Lutz, A.J. Amundson, Ed. and J.H. Miller, Jacob Graeber, J.F. Gillilan, A.J. Nichols, John Mueller, Emma Neprash, and John N. King.

70 A MEMORABLE EPISODE MEMOIRS OF CLARA KLEINJAN ZIMA by Wesley Reese I'm sitting at my desk overlooking the Wisconsin country In the winter of 1909-1910 my brother Dwight and I walked side from the windows of our living room. My thoughts some three miles to the Filler school. The school was located about way brought me back to the old days in North Dakota. I was 79 midway between the Charles Crary homestead and the Asa in April and it seems ages since we (my parents and children) Morris Homestead, on the north side of the road. Mollie came to North Dakota in 1905. We were among the first set­ Wehsner was the teacher. The winter had been long and cold tlers in that part of Hettinger County. Henry Barry's ranch and the first good weather was about the first day of spring all was the only one near us. There was a larger one, the the men in the neighborhood went to Lemmon to get supplies. Ingraham ranch near where New Leipzig is now. The town of Bentley did not exist. As luck would have it this was the day for a prairie fire to start miles to the west. The I'm thinking of the 10' x 24' frame building that housed our wind was strong and the fire spread for miles as there was family of nine children and parents and still kept other folks practically no plowed ground at the time. Everything was over night on their way to their respective homesteads. I'll prairie. never know how we did it, but we did. Our home was also the post office (not official) for folks around. I can still see Miss s I Emma Paulson coming to pick up her mail, the "Christian Herald", at that time, on her pony riding side saddle - A; something I never did when I was herding cattle for my dad on my Indian pont; Old Joe, we called him. I always straddled ^A^-.^A, ,p my pony. He was a tricky one. He formerly was used for hunting coyotes and, never having had a bridle on him, was guided by swaying this way and that to follow the coyote.

So many wild flowers - some lively cactus which I incidently stepped on, being barefoot - then not so lovely. I could ramble on for ages about those days, such as the dances which Ui " i were so much fun. Sometimes we got home in time to milk the Filler School in 1910. Miss Mollie Wehsner, teacher. cows. We usually had two violins for music. Those days are Front row left to right: Mina Filler, Wesley Reese, Ed­ gone now. ward Crary, Frances Filler, Clyde Crary, Dolly Miller. Back row: Arthur Filler, Harvey Hiers, Dwight Reese, Charlie Hiers, Miss Wehsner, Grace Gleason, Hallie I think I recall one special day more clearly than others, the Filler, Myrtle Filler, Eleanor Crary, Edna Chinn. day of the big priarie fire. My brother Peter's homestead Charley Crary came galloping up to the school on a farm shack area across the creek west of us had been burned all horse and shouted to Miss Wehsner to keep the children in the around, but it did not burn the buildings, grass there being too schoolhouse, and not to send them home. He said the short. The creek saved our place. I recall the day it started out schoolhouse would not burn because the grass around it had - very windy and hazy. Some of Mr. Henry Barry's cowboys been beaten down so much by children playing on it that the were at our place, Bob Kilbourne and Pat Haney. fire would go around. He was right. Teacher and puplis stood at the west windows and watched the fire race right up to the Our cattle were grazing north and east of our home on play area and then sputter out. The Morris farm buildings section 16. We seemed to smell smoke around noon and my were hidden from view by a rise in the land. Mr. Morris and brother and I set out on horseback, bareback, to see if they elder son Phil had gone to Lemmon and the younger children, were safe. Thank heaven, the fire swept past our place and Clayton and sister Celia were at school leaving only Olive didn't touch section 16 or even 17. The odd thing was that when Morris at home. We knew when the fire reached the farmstead we returned home safely after the fire, the air was for a column of smoke began to rise high in the air. Not a word miraculosly clear and we could see long stretches of was spoken as we stared in silence. The Morris place was blackened prairie to the southeast. Those fires usually burning and there was no help. traveled with the wind and one could not out-run them. The As soon as the fire had gone on out of sight to the east, school safest thing to do was to build a back-fire and be safe there; or was dismissed and Dwight and I started for home. We walked try to face it, and race through it. If the grass was short it fast and didn't say anything to one another until we came over meant safety for one. the last ridge and saw that our place was intact. We both yelled loudly in relief. Our father was in Lemmon, too. Mother had pumped a barrel of water and had raked away the dead I still have nostalgic feelings about those early days so free grass west of our house and was able to divert the fire. We from the stress of modern days. One of Dad's quarter sections could still see lighted sky far to the east late that night. We contained a part of the Cannon Ball river and sometimes our heard that it burned to the Missouri River. cattle grazed on both 16 and 17. High bluffs there which were Besides the Morris place, I believe the Otto Kibbel and the adjacent to the river always fascinated me. I could climb it in Chas. Bern places burned in this same fire. some places and sometimes I would sit beside the running I wish to say a word about all the truly good people we knew stream below the bluff as it rippled over the rocks. The river in the Bentley area in those years. They were workers but was shallow there and I could hear the soft sounds of the never too busy to help one of their fellows in need. They were morning dove in the trees that covered the bluff near the enterprisers all, true capitalists, but when it came to helping river. How lovely it was in the morning sunlight protected for one another they practiced pure socialism. the wind there. 71 Remembrances by Rose Harvey Matteson

After so many years, as I sit alone in my apartment in the I so often think of all the good people and neighbors - the state of Washington, it seems like a dream that the Harvey Kleinjans, Pews, Bickfords, Hallams, and Teddy Kruse, a family left their comfortable home in Mondovi, Wisconsiriand bachelor who was killed in the war. came to the prairies in North Dakota. After about two years, we moved to the Bysom home on the Arriving in Lemmon, South Dakota, we were met by my river. That was another step up. This was where my youngest dad. We drove thirty miles in a buckboard, five of us and sister was born. Then my dad bought the hotel in Burt. Here luggage, to our new home on a section of land near Burt. We we lived in a little house on the section where we first landed. lived in a tent for weeks, two sisters, Dad and Mother. I think We went through many years of hail, hot winds, ruined crops, it was in 1907. but everyone was in the same boat. You just smiled and started all over again. I remember my dad coming home one day with a grain or gunny bag with bread. He had bought it from Kleins, who lived There were so many nice people in Burt - Al Bohn, who had a on the Cannon Ball. There were three loaves in the bag. The store; Chamberlins, a store; Ristys, the post office; bread was delicious - fifty cents for the three loaves. Heinricks, the bank; Walkers, the livery stable; Lee Walker, real estate; Jack Daily, the pool and dance hall; (Of all the good times we had there!); Shorty Meyers, the Burt Echo; and yes, Karl Mueler, mail carrier. I can still picture him flying through Burt with his flashy rig. I had a bet with him once when we raced horse back a mile. I won, and got a big bag of chocolates. Oh, so many happy memories of people when you drift back - Gillens, Stiles, Moys, McMillins, Conradsons, Plunketts, Kuhls, (who ran the lumber yard) and Helms, (a hardware store). I recall a cyclone that hit Burt, tore the lumber yard apart, and killed a team of horses that were inside. I recall some sayings Mr. Hallam quoted. One was, "When the sun set in the west the wind blew the next day". How true that was. When we got one of those winds everything just died. But when times were good, and the big wagon loads of wheat came in to the elevators it was a sight to see. I have pictures of the Old Settlers' Picnic and of Zentners' band. They could play, but the tunes were all the same. And the ball games! My dad was an old timer. He always played third base, and could throw the ball farther than any young guy on the team. We had a little one-room school house. Mr. Jache was the teacher who drove a white horse. But living was not all fun. We had our schooling and chores. Many a time when half way to school, I was called back to finish my neglected chores. We had no running water, bathrooms, or electricity, but we were happier than people are today with all the conveniences. I can still see my dad getting ready for his Saturday night bath in a wash tub which was in a little building back of the hotel. He would always wash his feet first. Mother would ask, "Why feet first?" He would always come back with the same answer, "They're the dirtiest." Mary and Myra. One time Nell Walker, Karl Mueler, and I tied Chamberlins' burrows one in one end of the town and one in the other, and they brayed all night. But everything comes to an end some time. The bank went That fall we moved to a quarter of land between Bentley and under, elevators burned, and Harveys went broke. So in Watrous. The sod house my dad built was wonderfully warm January, 1919, Dad sold the Hotel to Zentners. We shipped and cozy. Here we experienced seeing our first prairie fire. We what we could, and left the land for the tax collectors. were saved by the grade of the Milwaukee Railroad. I can still see the Bern family coming across the prairie, black with soot This fall I drove through Burt, hoping to recapture some of and singed hair. Dad brought them in to the house. the happiness I had had, but I was so depressed. The hotel was gone as well as the stores. Grass in the streets! I did not even My sister and I attended school near Bentley. We drove our stop. But thank God that no one can take away the happy pony, Harry, the three miles. After tying up his reins, he would memories of North Dakota, and the wonderful people that go home. No one could catch him. lived there. 72 PIONEER LIFE Through the Eyes of a Child Etta Rumph Chesemore Early in the Spring of 1905, in a little town in Indiana, I, seven years old, danced around the packing boxes and sang, "Going to North Dakota! Going to North Dakota!" I knew that in a little while, we would be taking a trhee-day train trip to that strange new land. To me, it was a wonderful adventure; to my foster-father eldest brother Charles, it seemed a splendid opportunity to make a fine new start in life, what with Uncle Sam giving away 160 acres of rich black soil just for the asking; to Ella, my young foster-mother sister-in-law, it was no doubt a frightening trip into a wild unknown land. I WESTWARD HO! b fifiiL |Bl gitMammwmmMmammm The last week of March, Ella and I found ourselves on what was called an "immigrant train". Charles had ' £mmWEk9,amr^ gone on ahead to arrange for our coming. The train was filled to capacity with bachelors, spinsters, and families with anywhere from one to ten or twelve children, -all packed l ' WSSBSSBK — £ A together two and three to a seat. At night these seats were converted into upper and lower berths. The air was stifling with odors of all kinds, -food, stale tobacco smoke, unwashed Pioneer Meat Market at Mott in 1906. Proprietors were bodies, baby smells, and various other things. Charles Rumph and 01 Arrowsmith. Each family, no matter how large, had brought along enough food to last the three days of the trip, - for if there had SPRING TIME ON THE PRAIRIE been a dining car on the train, few if any of the passengers could have afforded to eat there. The trip was uneventful and Although it is long in coming, spring in North Dakota really very tiring. We reached Richardton on the third day, where comes very quickly. Within a week after the blizzard, the nuge Charles met us. He took us at once, under cold leaden skies, to drifts were gone, leaving only puddles that froze over at night, the one hotel in town. What we wanted most was a good hot and muddy roads. It was not long until April sun and balmy meal. The dining room was long and harrow, with a long table, b»eezes had erased all traces of winter, and had brought a extended the full length of it. The benches on either side were lovely blush of green to the dry brown fields, and even a few filled with men, all in various stages of devouring their shy crocuses on the bare rocky hillsides. evening meal. As we entered, they crowded closer together to As soon as the ground was fairly dry, Charles bought a tent make room for us. All I can remember of that meal is the and pitched it at the edge oMown. Our household goods had enormous bowls of boiled potatoes! We had never eaten just arrived by freight, so we had bedding, dishes, and cooking plain boiled potatoes. But those hot, mealy globes of white, utensils. The adults scoured the little town for the essentials of mashed with the fork and covered with butter melting into the living, - a cookstove, bed, table, cupboard, and chairs. When mound tasted the best of anything I had ever eaten! we moved out of our crowded little room into the tent, where Charles had engaged a light-housekeeping room for us until the whole outdoors was our yard, it was a happy, new, and we could make other arrangements. It was crowded and thrilling experience. uncomfortable, but the best that was available. Since money was always in short supply, Charles took every School had closed for the year before we started west, opportunity to earn. Since he had done some building "back but was still in session in Richardton. Charles and Ella east", he was glad to take the job of building a homestead thought it would be good for me to attend as long as we lived shack for an ex-teacher down near Colgrove Buttes. Ella and I there. Ella enrolled me. I found, to my dismay, that most of went along. On top of the lumber, building paper and nail kegs, the children spoke either German or Russian, while I could we piled foodstuffs, bedding, and cooking utensils, and a big chatter in just plain old English!) However my barrel of water. The trip took a day. The weather was perfect, school days there were short-lived. About a week afterward, I - neither hot nor cold. We saw rabbits which had shed their went to school as usual, under dark, lowering skies. In mid- winter white, which hopped along beside us as if running a morning, lazy snowflakes began drifting down. By lunch time race, brown and tan gophers which scurried across the road, the wind was driving the snow at a slant across the prairie birds which swooped and dipped through the clear, schoolyard, and within a few minutes we could not see the sweet air. That night Charles dug a small rock-rimmed pit for fence surrounding the building. Never having seen a blizzard our fire of buffalo chips, and we cooked supper that tasted like before, I was frightened. An hour or so later, someone rapped ambrosia, then we crawled into our beds of quilts and at the door. When a child opened it, a tall snow-covered figure blankets, and slept like babes. We awoke with the dew on our stepped in. When the man took the scarf from his face, I saw faces, and felt like new creatures. that it was Charles. With a cry of joy and relief, I ran to him. While Ella helped Charles with the building, I wandered He introduced himself to the teacher and asked permission to over the prairie, always within sight of the wagon, taking take me home. The teacher, doubtless relieved to be rid of at delight in the lovely little wild flowers shyly peeping from least one of her charges, assented. He had brought a long behind rocks and nestling in the fresh young grass. Especially "fascinator", which he wrapped completely around my head I loved the clear sweet call of the meadow lark - a sound that and face. He explained that I would be safe. He led, pulled, and never ceases to thrill me. Ella would not let me go barefoot, lifted me, fighting the suffocating snow and the bitterly cold for fear of cactus or snakes, but I lay on the grass, looked up at wind. We did arrive at home safely, -but that was the end of the azure dome of the sky, and thought the long thoughts of my Richardton schooling. childhood. The week, -and the building, -was too soon over!

73 HOMESTEAD BOUND Chase Ranch. They told us that there was a sod building out there that had been used as a school by the Chase family and other ranchers with children, but that it was empty now. As soon as they could get together the necessary tools, Charles and Ella got permission for us to live there. They household equipment and supplies, we headed for Mott and the cleaned out the thrash that had accumulated, and we moved homestead. The first night out we stopped at what was called in. After he had laid in supplies of food and coal, Charles left, "Half-way House", - the home of an enterprising rancher who to be gone until mid-October. had converted his downstairs into a dining room and his vast upstairs into a one-room dormitory. Each family would It was lonely with just us two, -but Ella had a new joy to keep spread bedding on the floor, partially undress, and go to sleep. her mind occupied, -she had found she was pregnant! The I do not know how many people slept in that room that night. I original ranch home across the road, occupied by the Ensleys, do know that for many years, when we were introduced to had three rooms. The family were wonderful folk, and were strangers, they were likely to smile and say, "Oh, yes, we very kind to us. Their two little girls, Ruth, 5, and Catherine, 3, slept with you when you were on your way to Mott"! were company for me, while Willetta and Ella spent many hours visiting and working on little white things which they About four o'clock of the next day, under dark threatening very quickly put out of sight when I came near. skies, we arrived at Mott. That "town" consisted solely of a In September, mail, addressed to a cousin of Willetta's, Lily livery stable, The Brown Hotel, - looking much as it does today Treon, but in care of the Ensleys, began coming. Quite a only smaller, - and the Mott' Supply, a long narrow building mystery! One October day, as the little girls and I played, we with a tiny post office in one corner. That was Mott! The sight saw a queer-looking vehicle come down over the distant rim of of it must have been quite a shock to Ella! our valley, and make its way toward us. By the time it got to After Charles had inquired for mail, we turned east toward us, Willetta was at the road. When it stopped, the woman on the homestead. A cold misty rain was falling, and by the time the wagon seat, handed a tiny baby down, then she and her we drew up beside the ruins of a soddie that marked the site of husband also stepped down. Then from the back of the covered the homestead, it was both dark and really raining. We got wagon came a big girl, a middle-sized girl, little girl, and a down onto the wet ground, - but what to do? It was too dark and little boy, and from the surrey behind the wagon , came a big too wet to raise the tent, and there was no dry fuel for a boy. This was the family of Mr. and Mrs. Ora Treon, Ed, Adah, cooking fire. I was frightened and whimpering, and cold and Edelle, Esta, Arthur, and the tiny Alice, all the way from hungry. Just then we all saw a pin-prick of light in the Oklahoma by covered wagon! What a wonderful family they distance. We quickly got back on the wet wagon seat, and were! They moved in with the Ensleys, and lived there until Charles urged the weary horses toward the source of that spring, twelve people in a three room house, and as far as we welcome light in the darkness! It proved to be a big hip-roofed ever knew, there was never a cross word or a serious barn. When he got there, Charles called out. At once a door disagreement of any sort! opened up near the roof in the gable end, and a man, in the What fun we had that winter! We had no toys but we needed light streaming out came down a stairway. Charles explained none, for we had friends. When my morning chores were our predicament. The man called up to his wife, now standing finished, I donned my heaviest cold-weather clothing and rail, in the door. As he explained, she interrupted him with "For outside. There I would surely find Edelle and some of the goodness sake, Charlie, bring them in out of the rain." He led younger children, all ready to play. We climbed the bluff us up and into a long, brighUy lighted warm home. It was behind the ranch house, and found beautiful rocks, some of above the barn, and had only one room, but it was so cozy, artTI which were agates. Once we found a petrified turnip with we were made so welcome, that the very memory brings a teeth-marks plainly visible. We found arrowheads, large and lump to my throat! It was the home of Mr. and Mrs. Charlie small, left there by the former inhabitants of our country. We Pugh. played hide-and-seek, although there were not many places to hide. When it snowed, fox-and-geese was our game, - or The next six weeks we lived in two tiny rooms behind the building a snowman, or having a snow fight! There was dance hall above the Mott Supply. It was suffocatingly hot up always something to do. Once, Edejle and I almost broke up there, but if we went down to the cool shade behind the store, our fHeadship-when we had a heated argument over which we were almost eaten alive by enormous mosquitos! Our were the prettier, Ella or her Mother! cookstove was in the dance hall because there was only one Then Charles came home. He had sold his team and wagon chimney. So every Saturday we took our stove down to rather than drive them all the way home and feed them .thru prepare for the dance! The Fourth of July was a big day, as the winter. He had earned enough to see us through the every rancher, farmer, and cowhand, brought basket lunches winter. Some business affairs in Indiana required his into "town" for a big celebration. I remember only two things presence. So one day in November, he got up very early and about the day. One is that I bought a dish of home-made walked in to Mott to take the stage to Richardton and the train. yummy ice cream, for a nickel. The other is that night after When Ella and I arose after daybreak, snow and wind were the dance began, I sat with Charles and Ella and watched roaring around our little soddie. Ella was worried, and so was awhile. I was impressed with a pair of twin girls, not much I. We were snug and warm beside the red-hot cookstove, but it older than I, but almost as mature as teen-agers, who danced was bitterly cold outside. We watched at the window, but we beautifully. They were Ella and Delia Bohn. could see nothing but the impenitrable white curtain of the blizzard. Toward noon, I caught a glimpse of a movement at OUR FIRST WINTER IN NORTH DAKOTA the corner of the house. With a cry of joy, I dashed to the door and threw it open. In tumbled snow-covered Charles, almost It was decided that Charles should take his team and wagon frozen and completely exhausted. As he warmed and rested, and go to the eastern end of the state to work in the harvest. he told us that the stage driver had decided, because of the We had gotten acquainted with Mr. and Mrs. Will Ensley. pending storm, not to drive the stage to Richardton. So They had found a place to live on what was known as the Old Charles had spent two and one-half hours finding his way 74 home. How he ever made it in the blizzard, with no fences to back to the two crestfallen, somewhat angry men! Charles guide him, we were never able to figure out! was so chagrinned at being taken in so easily that he did not After the blizzard, Charles was afraid to leave us so far from even scold me! a phone, a doctor, and some conveniences, so he took us in to the Brown Hotel where we stayed while he was in Indiana. On the night of March 9,1 was awakened and partly dressed When he returned early in January, my dear sistei Ethel, ten by Ethel, and hustled across the road and popped into an years my senior, came with him. It was a joyful reunion, for already crowded bed beside Edelle. The next morning Mrs. she and I loved one another dearly. While our mother was ill, Ensley came from our house to tell us that Ella had a beautiful Ethel had been my second mother. baby girl. From then on for three years, little Mildred was the Earlier, Charles had built a crude clothes closet in one light and joy of our somewhat dreary lives. corner of our house, and above it, up near the low roof, he had made a bunk bed for me. After Ethel came, she and I snuggled under the covers together. The top cover, a big old buffalo robe, was often frosted over the snow that had sifted through the roof and under the eaves. But we were always cozy and warm. However, my sister was not with us for long, except for week-ends and an occasional week between jobs. Families were moving into the area by the dozens, and the wide-place- in-the-road called Mott, was becoming a village. All of this meant a constant demand for household help or for someone to do the family sewing, -at which occupations Ethel was ex­ ceedingly adept.

FUN! FUN! FUN!

That winter was pure delight to us children! Every night but Sunday we all went to the Ensley menage, where the adults Marshall Phillips and wife Ruth in front of their spent endless hours swapping tall tales, arguing politics, or homestead house in 1908. Mr. Phillips, who was a rural playing Flinch. While the big folk were thus occupied, we mail carrier for many years, died in 1974 at the age of 91. children played every game known to childhood: we played school with Adah as teacher; housekeeping with all of us assuming the roles of the family; we played hide-and-seek, and anything else that came to mind. Such fun, such giggling and laughter as we had!_When midnight - or one o'clock - finally came, and Charles said firmly, "Time to go home!" inevitably there arose a dismayed wail, "Oh-h-h no-o-o! We AT LAST! THE HOMESTEAD just got started to playing!" Since we were in the "wild and wooly west", the men ex­ In the meantime, Charles had relinquished the place east of pected to see and shoot some wild animals. However, up to town and filed on one south of Mott. As soon as the snow was February, the wildest animals anybody had seen were the gone, Charles began building our new house on the homestead. long-eared bushy-tailed snow-white jack rabbits which He had, during the winter, bought four horses and a wagon. He hopped over the prairie, but which blended into the whiteness alternated work on the 14 x 28 ft. house with hauling trips to of the landscape when anyone wanted one or two for dinner! Richardton. However, by the first week in May 1906, we Almost every night we would awaken to hear the eerie spine- moved into our one-room "mansion". The windows and door tingling howl of the coyote, but no-one had seen one. were not hung, and the roofing paper was not on. Ella and I One cold brilliant day, Ora and Ed cooked up a trick to play joyously arranged furniture, made beds, put things away in on Charles and Will. This morning Will was at our house the crude shelves Charles had made, and thoroughly enjoyed playing Flinch with Charles, while Ella was visiting with the the expanded living space and the new, clean smell of the women at the "big" npuse. We children were playing fox-and- house. The next two days saw Charles putting in windows and geese when Ed came and called me aside. He asked me to slip door, and nailing on roofing paper. Saturday evening at in and lock the door and remove the key, and then to lock the sundown, he put the last nail in place, gave it an extra heavy storm shed door on the outside. I acted on his proposal, as I blow with the hammer, and said, as he came down the ladder, loved a mystery! Soon Ed and Ora ran by the house, waving "There, that's done! Now, let it rain! I want to see if the roof is their guns & shouting "Coyotes'. Coyotes!" At once Charles & going to leak!",We ate supper and went to bed. Shortly after Will jumped to their feet, overturning the small table at which midnight, we were aroused by a loud clap of thunder and a they had been playing. Charles grabbed his gun from its rack downpour of rain accompanied by fierce wind, then, first in and pulled at the door. The knob turned, but it would not open. one place, then another and another, drops of water came He felt in his pocket for his own key, and opened the door. Both down from the roof. Charles found out, -the roof leaked! men threw themselves at the shed door, but it, too was locked. Everything, - bedding, linens, clothing, - all were soaked. Charles yelled at me, and threatened dire consequences if I Sunday morning, instead of driving to Sunday School, we did not open it. Suddenly the frail lock on the outside gave spent spreading our wet belongings on the clothesline and the way, and both men tumbled out into the snow. They started now-dry grass. Monday Charles went to the Mott Supply and toward the two men running a short distance away, still bought a better grade of roofing and put in on. We had light shouting "Coyotes". As soon as they heard Charles shout, showers, but nothing severe, and there were no leaks, "Where? Where?", Ed and Ora turned around and came - UNTIL

75 A month or so later, Charles and Ella took Mildred and an urgent need, they decided to try again. drove to some friends' home some miles west of our place. After a couple of weeks, the men evolved a plan called a Since Ethel was at home, I stayed, too. We spent the day "meat ring". The agreement was that on one trip, a farmer happily scrubbing and polishing until the little 14 x 28 foot would buy a large portion, possibly a section of the rear house was spotless. That evening, after chores, which now quarter, then the next trip he would buy a less expensive and included milking a cow and feeding the chickens, - we ate a less appetizing part, and the next time, still another part, until supper of warm bread spread with butter and brown sugar, each member of the "ring" had bought either a half or a whole and cool milk, then went to bed. There was only one bedstead, beef. The men kept up this method of supplying a shortage Ethel was there, she slept with me. About 11 o'clock a until warmer weather and lack of refrigeration brought an end tremendous thunderclap shook the house and brought Ethel to to it. her feet. She hastened to turn up the lamp. At just that moment, Charles burst into the house, followed WHAT CAN WE BURN? by Ella. He handed the sleeping baby to Ethel, and ran back Another grave shortage was fuel. There were no trees ex­ out to the team. As they came on, rain and wind struck the cept the few cottonwoods and chokecherry bushes along the area, making the house shudder under its impact. Charles Cannonball and Heart Rivers, so there were no dead trees to quickly put the horses in a make-shift barn and ran back to the use for fuel. Every splinter and packing box were carefully house. He was soaked to the skin. He joined Ella and Ethel in hoarded for kindling. Earlier ranchers had found out- putting pots, pans and dishes around over the floor to catch the croppings of a light, soft lignite coal which they dug out for streams of water cascading through the roof! Mildred had their own use. With the coming of farmers and townspeople, been laid in her own basket-bed beside the big bed, -the only the demand for this coal was so great that some ranchers place in the building which was dry. Charles and Ethel picked opened up strip mines. However, lignite was expensive, and up my feather-bed with me in it, and laid it across the bed. As had to be hauled from such a distance, so we looked for and suddenly as it had arisen, the storm passed on, leaving us found another and much cheaper source of heat, - the buffalo relieved but very wet! The adults mopped and swept until the chip. floor was dry enough to put down our bed. Only a few short years before our coming, buffalo by the Monday morning Charles again went to the Mott Supply and thousands, had roamed our plains. In fact, Mr. Merry, an bought the best grade of roofing available, telling the clerk his early-day rancher, told of having hid in Castle Rocks and of sad tale. As he started waay, an old rancher who had listened watching young Indian braves kill 500 of the hairy beasts on to his tale of woe, stepped up to him and said, "Son, do you the plain below. After the disapearance of these, cattle had know what I do to keep my roof from leaking? Well, sir, after I replaced them, and roamed in great herds, living on the get my roofing paper on, I put a good coating of sod on it. The succulant prairie grass. Each denizen of the plains had left his next rain will make mud, and the next day's sun will bake it own gift to the future settlers, the buffalo chip. into adobe, and it won't leak!" These so-called chips, the droppings of the cattle and buf­ Charles thanked him and drove home. He nailed on the falo, were usually round, about six inches in diameter, hard as roofing over the other two coats, then, very thoughtfully, he wood, bleached white by rain, snow and sun, and were com­ plowed strips of sod, cut them in two-foot lengths, and laid pletely odorless. them on top. And that roof never leaked again that summer or Ella and I would hitch Frostie to a sled-like contraption winter! called a stone-boat, put a hogshead (barrel) on it, and with SHORTAGES—SHORTAGES! Mildred snugly tucked into a box on the front, we would set off The pioneers in Hettinger County had shortages of all kinds, to roam the prairie in search of this free fuel. Frostie moved -in fact, they were, frankly, out of most of the now-a-day slowly along, cropping the grass as she walked. We each normal essentials of living. They lacked fresh fruit and carried a bucket which we filled as we fanned out on either vegetables, really adequate clothing for cold weather, fur­ side of the stone-boat. It didn't take long to fill the barrel, and niture, except what the man of the house could contrive from then we headed for home. packing boxes, and all the niceties, such as soft rugs, dainty We always enjoyed this small break in the monotony of our curtains, and roomy houses. day. In our wanderings, we found where birds made their One shortage the newcomers felt most keenly was the lack nests among the heavier clumps of grass, then we watched as of fresh meat. Salt"pork, an occasional slab of bacon or a ham, the faithful bird mother pretended a broken wing and fluttered were available. But oh, how the folks hungered for fresh meat! away, to lure us away from her babies. We took pleasure in Charles had an idea, and with the help of Ora Treon and Bill seeing the brown-and-yellow gophers scamper off at our Ensley, set about - temporarily at least, -solving the problem. approach, and once in a while we came across a small First he bought a nice fat steer from a rancher, and but­ prairie dog town. These were especially intriguing, for each chered it on the spot. With Ora's wagon and team, they small inhabitant sat on the mound above his doorway, and brought the carcass home to cut up. They carefully tran- saucily barked us, and at each tiny bark, his tail would flick up formed it into steaks, tempting roasts, boiling meat, and using and down, - hence the nick-name for North Dakota, - The our old meat grinder, turned out what we call hamburger! Flicker Tail State. Wild flowers dotted the spring landscape, - Even the suet was salvaged. The wagon was filled with clean flowers whose names I do not recall. There was the dainty hay, over which sheets were laid. Then carefully stacked the bluebell, so fragrant and fragile, the low-growing red verbena, meat and covered it. Because the weather was North Dakota- the soft furry crocus, and the unexpected cactus with its ut­ January-cold, there was no danger of spoiling. terly lovely yellow and purple flowers. The song birds, so Early the next morning, the three men set out to visit the different from Indiana ones, swooped and skimmed through nearest newcomers. By late afternoon, their meat was gone, the air, then loveliest of all, the meadow lark, with its clear and they happily headed homeward. The reception to the whistle-like call. meat-market-on-wheels was so overwhelming, and the men The buffalo chips burned with a quick, hot fire, sending out a were urged to repeat their adventure in business. Since there clean wood-like fragrance. For summer use, they provided us was a small profit, and a great satisfaction in supplying such with an excellent fuel! 76 THRESHING DAY a stack nearby. In the meantime, farmers who had come to The high point in a pioneer child's year was threshing day. It help, had taken their basket-shaped hayracks into the field was truly mine in the summer of 1906. Our crops were ex­ and filled them with shocks of grain. cellent that summer, our first on the homestead. Rains were Soon straw was pouring out of one big spout, while out of the abundant, and garden and all grains fairly popped out of the other came a stream of the beautiful plump grains of wheat; a ground. Wheat, shoulder high, with heavy rich heads, was man held a sack under the stream and when it was full, cut, bound, shocked and cured, and were ready for threshing. another man with an empty sack replaced him. He tied it A homesteader, Mr. Banning, I believe, had invested in a securely and handed it to a man in a wagon beside the steam threshing rig. He hired it and a skeleton crew to far­ machine. mers who had grain to thresh, taking the job on a first-come- At ten minutes to twelve, a shrill whistle split the air,-the first served basis. signal to the men in the field that it was dinner time. At twelve, The day the rig was to come to our house, the alarm went off the engine was shut down, and the ten or twelve men trooped before daybreak. Charles and Ella rolled out of bed to begin to three wash basins on a bench at the end of the house. Great what promised to be a long, busy day. By sunrise, breakfast towels on rollers caught most of the grime, -but what are was over and chores done. Charles had to see to many details towels for, anyway?! As soon as each man finished his before seven o'clock, when the rig was due to arrive. Hun­ washing, he hurried in to the house and sat on a bench at the dreds of gunnysacks and proper tying string were neatly heavily loaded table. There he quickly filled his plate, -in fact, stacked where the threshing was to be done. Shortly another heaped it, sometimes half-emptying a dish of creamy mashed brother, J.D., and his wife Belle, came. The two brothers put potatoes or light luscious dumplings. The women hovered like the finishing touches on the frame of the barn that was to be mother hens, refilling each dish as it showed signs of being finished that day. They had earlier set tall poles in the shape of depleted, and keeping the coffee cups filled. Pies and cakes a square, and another set of poles outside these; then back followed. As the men felt they could hold no more, the pushed and forth from pole to pole they had strung wire about 6 inches back and walked out, patting their rounded stomaches and apart, thus making two large wire squares, one inside the emitting giant belches! After all the men had eaten, the other. In the center of this they set other poles to act as anchor women cleared away the plates and cups, called us hungry for still other poles extending from the center to those forming children in, then sat down wearily to eat and relax before the the sides. Over these, they strung wire, also, and this formed dishwashing. the framework of the barn to be finished that day. If the job lasted more than a day, the neighbor men all went For days, Ella had been baking pies, cakes, bread and home for supper, while the regular crew stayed on. The beans, and had stored them in the small cellar under the evening meal was quite different from the noon one, for it house. To keep them fresh, Charles had brought from town a would be made up of left-overs, prepared in as tasty a way as huge chunk of river-ice, wrapped in layers of newspaper, the housewife could manage. and put it all in our biggest galvanized tub. The food was set on J.D. and Charles spent the daylight hours, tamping the fresh and around the ice. They day before, Ella had killed and straw down between the two rows of wire until they had four dressed two fat hens and a rooster. This morning she put them walls and a roof of a snug, warm barn. Later they would hang on the stove to boil. There was a ham to bake-ordered earlier a door, and it would be complete. from Sears-potatoes to peel, green beans to string and cook, Our first threshing day lasted only one day, but the glamour fresh lettuce and onions to get from the garden, and a and thrill remain with me yet. thousand other details to look after. She was determined to have a really good and plentiful dinner, -for the crew, in­ CHURCHES—CHURCHES—CHURCHES cluding neighboring farmers, always noised it abroad who had The spiritual development of the community kept pace with a good or a poorly cooked and skimpy dinner. As the neighbors its numerical growth. During the summer of 1905, a number of with their wagons, came to help, two or three wives came new-comers met in the hall and organized a non- along to help out in the house. Some had brought fresh bread, denominational Sunday School. Mrs. Ensley was the first jars of pickles, or jam, to add to the menu. Toward noon, the superintendent, and Charles was the song leader. We had women brought in the carpenter's horses, which Charles had neither organ nor piano, not even a pitch-pipe. Since Charles used in building, put them on one side of the house, put planks had a very high tenor voice, the songs were usually pitched too across them, then spread sheets for tablecloths. high for the average singer! We children ran errands, and tried-against our wills- to keep Frequently the ministers came through town, and preached from underfoot. The smells from the stove, combined with for us. One such man, named Jones, preached, then told us deafening sound made by the threshing machine, elevated our frankly, to do as he said, not as he did! When spring came, and excitement to the highest pitch. the sound of hammers and saws filled the air, the Sunday Shortly before seven that morning, Ella sent me outside to School moved from the hall to any new building that had a listen for the rig. Soon, on the clear, still morning air, I flour and roof. Owners welcomed the little group. As more became aware of a throbbing, pulsating sound that became peopl" moved in from "the Bible Belt", the attendance in­ louder until it was a distant roar. As I stood watching, a plume creased. Sometime in 1906, a District Superintendent, Dr. of black smoke floated over the small hill up the road. Then, Danford, from Bismarck, came and organized a Methodist slowly like a gargantuan monster, huffing and puffing, and a Church. Shortly afterward, a young minister filed on a clinkety-clank, belching great clouds of smoke, came the homestead, and pastored the infant church. He was Rev. threshing machine. It was in two sections; first came the coal- Streevy. burning steam engine, followed by the threshing machine Other organizations came into being, - Catholic, German proper. It looked somewhat like a giant grasshopper, a bright Evangelical, and Lutheran, to name a few. red one. At the sight of it, my heart gave a lurch of excitement. One episode in Sunday School still makes me blush at my As it left the road and crossed our land, Charles showed Mr. temerity! Henry Beuhler was S. S. Supt. when it came time for Banning where he wanted it to be placed, so that the straw choice of teachers for the coming year. His method was to go could be blown onto the frame of the barn, the rest to be put in to each class and ask whom they wanted as teacher. Our class 77 of 8 and 9 year olds, had as teacher a woman with a heart of end of the house,-she did not say why. Once, she opened the gold, but with a personality that made her unpopular with the door, looked out, then turned, white-faced, and said, "There's girls. Mr. Beuhler came to our class and smilingly said, "Well, a fire here! Bring a blanket and come on". She picked up the girls whom do you want for teacher? How many want Miss sleeping baby, wrapped her in a blanket and ran out of the ?" Seven little hands hesitantly went up, and one house. I followed. We ran to the east end of the house, out of the remained down. "How many do NOT want Miss ?" wind. Then, Ella always said, her mind completely left her. One little hand went up, mine! What an independent youngster Turning to to me, piteously, she asked, "Where shall we go?" I was! My littlegirl mind must have recognized her helplessness, for I took command, and said, "Let's go to the henhouse". My COLLEGE, HERE I COME! childish wisdom said that the henhouse was built of sod, and There was no school in or around Mott until Miss Josephine sod would not burn-but what that same wisdom failed to say Steake, a homesteader, became concerned, and opened one in was that the roof was straw, and was in direct line with a building which housed the first printing press. I stayed with the furiously blazing straw barn. At any rate, we fought our Miss Steake in her homestead soddie, and waded thru the way against the wind to the little building, and sat on the clean snow the mile or so to school. Several, possibly 10, pupils straw and the blanket I had brought. The chickens scratched ranging in age from six to eighteen, attended. This school and sang contentedly around us, oblivious to the veritable lasted only a month or so. holecost of burning straw and hay outside. Angels must have Then Hettinger County was organized, and the new officials hovered over us that day, for, although there were burnt thought it was high time the children -of whom there were pieces of straw and wood on the dry straw roof, and a pile of quite a number by this time-should have an opportunity for an lumber beside the henhouse burned, the straw roof did not education. By the autumn of 1907, a one-room building was burn. ready for occupancy. Miss Steake was engaged as teacher. We sat there for an hour or so, none of us uttering a sound. She was a brilliant woman, a University of Minnesota Then, Ella said, her mind returned. She cried out, "Why are graduate and an excellent teacher. I had missed 2nd and 3rd we not on the"burned-over ground? We'd be safe there!" I was grade, but because I was almost ten, she put me in the 4th happy to relinquish my grown-up role, and to become just a grade. I have the report card of that year. Recently I unear­ little girl again! We ran. out to the blackened ground south of thed it and read it. The first month or two, I had very low the buildings, and sat down. Not until then did we look around grades in writing and arithmetic, but the the third month I was us. The only fire we could see was the still smouldering barn getting grades in the 90's. and haystacks-. Then, to our amazement, we saw the house, Our school had no library, and we pupils were woefully standing firm and safe, just as we had left it! The sod that unread. Miss Steake set about filling this lack in our school. Charles had laid around it the autumn before to keep out the She prepared us to give a program in conjunction with a winter's cold, had not burned, and neither had the house! With basket supper. The object was to raise money for a library. joy, we ran inside. By this time the wind had died down. We Three things about that evening remain vivid in my memory. left the door open, and Ella sat in a rocking chair with Mildred First, I played the part of a maid scrubbing floors, in the on her lap, and I leaned against her for comfort. We were program. Second, when the basket suppers were sold, there covered with soot and dirt,-but we were alive. It was thus that was the generous sum of $108 in the kitty. Third, Miss Steake Charles found us. He fell to his knees, threw his arms around ordered a large sectional bookcase, and it was soon filled with us, and we all burst into tears. We had lost our barn, our the tot best in English literature. This was my happy in­ summer's supply of hay, our cow and two colts, but we were so troduction to the world of literature. thankful to be alive and all together, that the other losses PRAIRIE FIRE! seemed small! Just two years after we arrived in North Dakota, March 30, 1907, we had a terrible experience, -a prairie fire! Charles had ANOTHER YEAR — 1908-1909 gone to Richardton to bring back a load of provisions for the The winter of 1908-09 I attended Castle Rock School. Our store. On the day we expected him home, a chill wind was dear friend, Marshall Phillips, was the teacher. He drove to blowing when we arose. Ella did the chores, and we hurried school Monday morning, picking me up on his way, then we through the morning work in order to be ready for Charles drove home Friday after school. We both stayed at the Bert when he came. The wind continued to rise. Tumbleweeds, torn Thompson home. from their winter moorings, chased one another across the Early in March, just at her third birthday, our darling prairie like fat people running. Clouds of dust obscured the sun Mildred became ill. Dr. Rucker came out from Mott, and was until the atmosphere was a peculiar yellow. The house shook, puzzled by her disease. He finally diagnosed it as brain fever. and the fuel in the cookstove was sucked up the stovepipe so Remembering the symptoms, in the light of modern medical rapidly that we could hardly keep the fire stoked. knowledge, I am sure she was the victim of uremic poisoning. I stood at the east window, watching the clouds of dust and In spite of all the Dr. could do, and in spite of our grief, she the tumbleweeds as they raced before the wind. Suddenly slipped away from us on March 20th. Her passing left a void so there was a loud ripping noise, and I saw a huge piece of our deep and dark that Charles almost lost his mind crossing it. precious roofing paper sail through the air like a black bird of Her mother was crushed and broken-hearted, but her strength prey. Every little while another piece would rip off and take and faith were greater than her husband's. after the others. Shortly, all the roofing paper was gone, and That summer was a long sad one for us all. I was relieved dust and pieces of grass sifted through the cracks in the roof and happy when Ethel wrote from Dickinson that she had a boards, until the floor was an inch deep in the silt. family of friends who wanted a young girl to stay with them Finally, Ella said, "Honey, put on your overcoat and and help around the house while attending school. Ethel overshoes. We have to let the fire go out." I did as she said, though I would be just what they wanted. We packed my then continued watching out the east window. I was just plain clothing, and I left for Dickinson in Sept. 1909. I rode by stage scared, but I knew Ella was, too, so I did my childish best not to Richardton, and went the rest of the way by train. Ethel to show my fright. Ella kept going out the door, and to the west met me, and what a joy it was to see her again! 78 However, we were soon separated again, for after I was well Bangor for a visit. Mabel was there during the summer settled Ethel left for Mott, where she filed on a homestead. vacation from her teaching -her sister was the wife of The winter in Dickinson, nine months long, though often a Grandpa Whinery's son. After that Mabel was often at our homesick time, was really a happy one. New friends, new house during week-ends, and sometimes entertained her faces, new surroundings, kindness and love where I lived, all- beaus in our "parlor". helped to heal the hurt of the year before. FINIS My pioneering days, at least as a child, were almost over. Crops were good and Charles built us a comfortable new home, bought new furniture, and best of all, we bought a piano. I was growing up, and could drive to school myself, or I *> could work for may board and room,- both of which I did. Then, too, two railroads ran a race to see which one could put a branch line into Mott first. They finished the race on the same day! When a wide-place-in-the-road becomes a town and a county seat, and has two railroads, it is no longer a pioneer town, and the citizens of its environs are no longer Pioneers!

HOMESTEADING IN NORTH DAKOTA Ethel Erickson

Ethel and Anna Erickson. Taken about the time the two ladies lived on Anns's homestead. When Mabel and John decided to get married mother wanted to have the wedding at our house and made the wed­ Anna Erickson's homestead. ding dress for her. She is still "family" and is now the only one left beside myself. (Mabel Chinn passed away July 18, 1969) When Mabel and John with their nine-months old baby When my sister and I homesteaded in North Dakota more Josephine took up a homestead in North Dakota-Hettinger than fifty years ago we had a wonderful time. Under different County- early in the 1900's Anna went there to visit. She had circumstances we might have considered some of the things never been very strong since a bout with scarlet fever and that we had to do real hardships, but to us they were just a part diphtheria in her childhood, and had been at home helping in of a thrilling and interesting experience. the store. The air of the North Dakota priaires seemed in­ I often wonder now how it happened that our parents were so vigorating and wonderful for her and as a result she began to willing, almost enthusiastic, about this adventure of ours. look around for a claim to file on. She found one about two They were not young parents and we two were the only family miles from Mabel and John's homestead -a relinquishment, they had. Perhaps it was a renewal of their own pioneering and after much writing back and forth to the folks, she filed on spirit, for they had both come to this country from Norway and it. Sweden before they were twenty years old, -and how my Anna came home and spent a busy winter making plans to mother loved new adventure. return in the spring. We sent our house hold goods by freight, My father had a general merchandise store in LaMoille, sharing a box car with an Albion lady who was also launching Iowa, and when it was decided that we take up this homestead on a homesteading adventure. Then our goods had to be he put in many hours searching thru the Butler Brothers' hauled 25 miles by wagon and team from Lemmon, South catalogues in order to send for the things that we might need Dakota. -fur-lined coats, a wonderful little cook stove and finally metal It was in the spring of 1910 when Anna and mother went to siding for our shack. But I'm getting ahead of my story. begin the homesteading. I was teaching a rural school near The reason we thought of going to Dakota home at the time and could not go until summer. I had had two was Mabel and John Chinn. Mabel had been one of our family years of college work and was teaching my second year of ever since I had found her when I was about nine or ten years rural school to save money to go on to college, but that, of old. I had become acquainted with "Grandpa" Whinery on a course, had to be postponed until after the homesteading vacation at Clear Lake. He had a store in Bangor, a small town experience. Mother had the time of her life for the few months near Marshalltown and one day in the summer when he came she was there -putting in the garden and helping in the house. to get goods for the store I had the thrill of riding with him to I went out the latter part of July after mother had returned 79 earlier that month and I found it quite a journey. I went to was long-legged, a gray white in color and had a mind of his Lemmon, South Dakota by train and was to take the stage own. We often staked him out at night, but he could pull up the from there to the small town of Bentley, North Dakota. I stake and wander. He often got into our chicken feed in the arrived in Lemmon, a typical little western town, in the lean-to at night and in one instance drank milk that we thought morning, only to find that I had missed the stage, so I had to we had covered tightly and placed in the lean-to to keep cool. wait until the next morning. AND SUCH A DREARY WAIT! It was the night before the fourth of July the second year we The hotel was sort of a rooming house, poor locks on the doors were in Dakota that we became really concerned about Tom. and a transom over each one. Of course I was not one bit brave We had staked him out as usual -his sod barn was really too and very inexperienced and at night I pushed the furniture small for comfort on a warm night- but in the middle of the against the door, but was sure that someone was going to night Anna awoke and became worried about Tom -our only wiggle thru the transom! After I had been in that western transportation to the big celebration in town the next day. So country for a few months I learned that I had nothing to fear - we put on our fur coats over our nightwear and went out to all were ready to do anything for you and were always cour­ gaze over the buttes -not a sign of Tom. So we wandered over teous. the prairie. It was a beautiful moonlight night and we finally I was there early the next morning waiting for that stage found him securely in the barn. We had had visions of missing which was really a spring wagon with a cover for protection. I that Fourth of July celebration. Bentley sprang up. Everyone was the only passenger so rode with the driver -the back part helped build the town and the first thing we knew the store was of the wagon high with mail and packages and all sorts of in operation, then the bank. Following this a barber shop and baggage. The prairie looked vast to me and really wonderful. restaurant, and then a hall for community gatherings and We never could tell anyone just why we loved that country but especially dances. I rmemeber the day they built the sidewalk we did. -probably a dozen men turned out and it wasn't long until a We stopped for dinner at a long low sod house -my first sight nice new board walk was ready for use along main street. of a sod house- and being the only girl there (beside the Then the question of a school came up. Mr. Bentley was women in the family) I was the subject of a good deal of good- everything in the town -promoter, mayor and the school natured kidding by the fellows who seemed to be working on board. He was the master of ceremonies at every affair. I this ranch. Each fellow was attempting to bribe the driver to was anxious to teach for money was scarce and we wanted to let him take his place -all in fun and although I admit that it be self-supporting during this year in Dakota if possible. I bothered me quite a lot, still they were all courteous and applied to Mr. Bentley and secured the school to begin "when kindly and just having fun. the building was ready" - it hadn't even been started. They Bentley was later called "Old Bentley" after the railroad began building' in October and it was ready early in Novem­ went thru near our homestead and the new Bentley was built. ber. It was built on a knoll about a block from the main part of It was at Old Bentley where Mabel and Anna met me, and we the town with a beautiful view of the surrounding country. drove over the prairie trails-they could hardly be called The enrollment grew from fifteen in the beginning to twenty roads-about nine miles to our homestead. The wonderful six by the middle of the school year. I had two pupils in a seat clear air and the vastness of the prairie with so few houses in and my desk was so close to them -seemed like they were sight left a lasting impression on me. right on top of me all day. Most of the youngsters had good We had a very cute and comfortable house. The man from foundations in their school work, coming from well whom we bought the relinquishment had been a stone-mason established schools. They were interesting pupils -the two and he had used the native "nigger-heads" for the basement Bentley girls were bright and lovely youngsters and a Hiers part of the house and for the "lean-to" as we called it. We boy in the fifth grade was the best student in English that I cooked and ate in the basement and had our large room up­ have ever had the pleasure of teaching. I really enjoyed my stairs for living room and bedroom. Each part opened on the work that year. ground -really a two-level house. There were several children belonging to a Russian family We had a nice little cook stove in the basement and acquired in my school. Just before Christmas their father deserted a table and chairs and built some cupboards out of boxes. We them, the mother had died the summer before. I remember had rag carpet strips on the floor. In the upstairs room we had that Anna and I went down to their shack and got them ready a couch which served as a bed and also a single bed, a library to go to a Christmas program which our school was putting on table which we borrowed from Mabel, a shelf in one corner at the community hall. The poor kids were so dirty and had which served as a closet. There was a shelf for books which we such ragged clothes, so a couple families nearby took them in put up ourselves. In the fall we had a Round-Oak stove sent in. and many sent clothing. Anna and I had great idea of adopting We burned lignite coal which was brought from a mine about a Sebastian, the six-year old, but fortunately the father returned mile away. We were always feeding the stoves in cold and everything worked out better for the family. weather. They took so much of this coal and the ashes were During the first part of the school year I drove back and just like wood ashes. forth from the homestead every day -about three miles. Often We had a well, not very deep, and tho we kept it covered Anna would come with me to spend the day with friends. we would occasionally find a squirrel in the bucket when we Everyone liked company -a matter of strangers in a strange drew up water. However we were careful to boil the water for land perhaps. How friendly people were! Then there were drinking. We also had a spring quite close to the house which Mabel and John and their darling little Josephine. There was provided the water for washing and cleaning. scarcely a week-end when we were not together and often We kept very busy that summer and fall, chinking up holes Anna would spend several days there and I would drive over in our foundation, doing some carpenter work such as making after school. Of course we had things to do at the homestead. a door for the outhouse, papering our living room and making We had our chickens to care for, but we had made a good curtains, and many other things. We also had chickens to care house for them out of packing boxes boxes and there was a lot for as my father had sent an incubator along with our goods. of good food for them on the prairie. We bought an old horse from John and sold it back to him Max Chinn, John's brother who lived only one mile from us when we left. Tom became an important part of the family. He took thirty of our pullets when it got colder and gave us back 80 half of them in the spring. We had only two left on January had been sent in for the doctor and for Anna as the new baby first when it was so cold that we packed up everything we had was on the way. We heated soapstones and got Anna bundled in the line of food and went to Bentley. We had a room in up for the cold drive to Mabel and John's. Everything came Bentley by that time so we could stay there through the week along nicely. Mildred was a tiny baby and a dear. Anna loved and go to the homestead on week-ends to do washing, baking her so much and felt that she had a special claim on her. and other things. Anna was there for about two weeks -I could learn about I shall never forget the trip to Bentley on New Year's Day. how they were getting along only through the doctor and when The temperature was way beiow zero and the wind was John came in for supplies. However at the blowing hard, and how the wind could blow in North Dakota. first opportunity I drove out to see them. We had made We heated soap stones and put hot water in jars to put in the arrangements to keep our horse and buggy in the livery stable buggy, put the two chickens in a gunny sack and gave them to in Bentley so we could have it at any time. a neighbor on our way to town. Our buggy was packed and we Mabel and John's house was partly sod and partly frame. It must have been a funny sight with our oil can tied on behind. was warm and Mabel had it fixed up so nice and cozy. Anna That was one time that we had real difficulty getting Tom out and Mabel had stenciled curtains for the windows and Mabel of the barn -he knew how cold it was. But after pulling and had added other little home-made touches that made it very coaxing we managed to get him hitched up. The next morning attractive. We loved to be there. The baby and little Josephine it was forty degrees below zero. Some neighbors stopped to were added attractions. take me along with some of the children to school in a bob-sled. Money was very scarce and we spent only for necessities. During that severe weather there were many children who My salary of fifty dollars a month was really stretched to pay came to school with frozen hands and faces. We used snow for all expenses. Food was not high, -meals at the restaurant thawing, and I always had a can of kerosene in the were twenty-five cents. Anna was a good seamstress and entry and often used that with very good, results. One time I made clothes for us, even making some for another people sent a youngster to the doctor as I felt that his hands were occasionally. frozen so badly that he needed special treatment. We had a rifle, a Winchester, which father had bought for us. Yes, we had doctor in Bentley. He served a wide area and I We used it for target practice, but we were never too skilled in wonder how he made those long trips by team and buggy in its use. One day we came home to find an animal sitting in the that very cold weather. His five-year old started school with middle of the road leading to the homestead. It sat very still me and when someone asked him if he wanted to be a doctor but we were taking no chances. We shot it and still when he grew up, he answered, "No, I've seen enough of it remained in the same position. No doubt someone who that." knew us had placed the dead animal there for a joke. There was much entertainment in that small but peppy But one evening we were really frightened. It was a real community. Of course, there was a band and a very good one. blizzard that night. We were sitting warm and snug in our Our Tom tolerated the music and scarcely wiggled an ear living room when there was a loud pounding on our basement when we drove into town for some celebration, but the fellows door. I grabbed the rifle and Anna went ahead cautiously to enjoyed rushing up to hold him by the bridle as though he open the door. A man stood there and was most apologetic might dash off any minute. because he knew that the had frightened us. He had lost the All the year around there were dances in the hall and Mr. trail that went through our place and wanted to be set straight. Bentley was usually the one that kept things going. He was an We really had no cause ever to be afraid. In those years in the unusual character. He was a real promoter and a politician. western country there seemed to be no one with evil intent. He was a booster for the Christian Endeavor Society which we One of the last big celebrations I remember was on the organized and for the church as well as the dances, the band Fourth of July, 1911.1 read the Declaration of Independence at concerts, the baseball games and all celebrations. We enjoyed the program, and then we had a big picnic dinner at the the Bentleys and they wercwonderful to us. Mrs. Bentley was Bentley's. I remember that Mr. Bentley joked about the one of the finest women I have ever known. She was a good chocolate cake we brought -said that we must have sent to musician and she and Anna put in many hours playing piano Sears for it. There was a ball game in the afternoon, and how duets. hot it was sitting out on the prairie watching it. Anna and I missed our piano and so we often went to the Anna proved up on the homestead in late summer and we Little home where we could have an evening of music. Mort returned home to Iowa. We both had enjoyed that year and a played the trombone and young 12 year old Ezra the cornet. I half in Hettinger County, North Dakota. The people we had my mandolin and we all liked to sing so we really had fun. learned to know were fine and genuine folks. The experience Mort was wonderful company for me that winter and we en­ was wonderful. joyed many things together. He was a fine young man and was This poem seems to somewhat reflect our sentiments full of fun in spite of the fact that he felt the responsibility of concerning that prairie country: the family as his father was not living and there was a sister "This God-forsaken land," they call it and three younger brothers besides his mother. As they gaze with pitying eye. Mort was the promoter of the play we worked so hard on and "Nothing here but hills and sagebrush produced in March with quite a degree of success. It was a And a vast expanse of sky." real melodrama -"Jerry, the Outcast,'; and Mort took the "We don't know how you can take it," leading part and was the director. We gave it in two neigh­ Those city folks declare. boring towns besides Bentley and had a lot of fun altho we didn't make much money, neither did we lose. "And how do you make a living? Or do you live on air?" It was in January that Mildred was born, an event we shall This loneliness they talk about always remember. Anna and I were living in our rooms in To us is God's own peace; Bentley, going to the homestead week-ends if the weather There's so much of beauty all around permitted. One night during the middle of the week we heard That our thanks shall never cease. . ., someone pounding on our door. It was John's brother Max who Author unknown 81 PIONEER FOOTPRINTS Josephine Chinn Sipling

John and Mabel Chinn pioneered in North Dakota, and a homestead in Hettinger County in southwestern part of although this was well past the time of the Indians and the North Dakota, a few miles from the area that would be a small buffalo, nevertheless they knew the hardships and heartaches town of Bentley in a few years. They were lonely away from and discouragement in carving out a home in a wilderness and their families and friends of Iowa, and wrote many persuasive plowing up prairie land to establish a productive farm. letters to brother John, wanting him and his family also to They had been married on March 15th, 1905, in Mar- move to North Dakota and stake a claim nearby. shalltown, Iowa, at the home of Hans Erickson and his wife, However, Mabel wasn't in agreement with any of this who were dear friends. Mr. and Mrs. Erickson were like thinking. She felt that they should stay in the fertile fields of parents to Mabel, and their daughters, Anna and Ethel, were Iowa. Here was the place they should put down their per­ as close to her as sisters. Most happy and warm ties have manent roots. Eighty acres of unimproved farm land, which existed through all of these many years. was some three miles outside the city of Marshalltown, and John and Mabel went immediately to an area farm, near the which "lay well", was in their dream for the future at that parental Chinn farm, and were Iowa farmers for two years, time, but they were unable to make the required down and it is here their first child, Josephine, was born September payment, and to secure financing that is always necessary in 3rd. 1907. purchasing real estate, and this opportunity had to be passed up, to Mabel's sore disappointment, especially. As there was more talk of the move to the West, Mabel had many a good cry, regretting so much to leave family and friends, and still feeling it was the wrong thing to do. This pending separation from her sister, Rose, who had recently been widowed, and from her little neice, Ruth, who meant so much to her, brought a big heartache. Many years later, the niece, Ruth, remembering those days, said, "Oh, it was almost as sad as though there had been a death!" "How dreadfully we hated to be separated from the darling baby, little Josephine." In the fall of 1907, after picking corn in Iowa, John went by train to Lemmon, South Dakota, where he was met by brother, Max. He was in Dakota some three weeks, and found he could file a claim on 160 acres some two miles northeast of his brother's homestead, and that he could rent 160 acres lying to the east of the 160 acres he was filing on. This 160 acres was owned by a Mr. Barry, who was sheriff of the county and who had had a sheep ranch on the 160 acres. This man and his wife sold their sheep and moved into Mott, the county seat, a few months before. There was an all sod house on the place, which John thought would serve all right as their home until he would have time to put up his own buildings. Incidentally, John and Mabel a few years later were to buy Mr. and Mrs. John Chinn. this 160 acres, which would make up their farm of 320 acres. After taking care of the necessary business in connection with Around this time in the history of our country, many young his filing on the claim, and the arrangements»to rent the east men were taking their brides, and were moving into Nebraska 160 acres, John returned to Iowa. and the Dakotas. As is the case in this story, a couple teams of John loaded his machinery, four cows, five horses, including horses, machinery that would be needed, perhaps a few hogs the white driving horse, a span of mules, two hogs, and a small and chickens, etc., were loaded into railroad cars and flock of hens, into a box car on the Chicago and Northwestern shipped to the location nearest the area where they were going Railroad out of Marshalltown, and in the month of March, to homestead. Of course the railroads were only in the process 1908, started out for Lemmon, South Dakota, which was as of laying their tracks through this western country, and after near at that time as he could travel by rail to the area where shipping their equipment as far as they could, these he expected to homestead. Some four weeks later Mabel and pioneering people had to proceed many, many, miles over daughter and her sister-in-law, Mary Chinn, started out by crude prairie roads to the place where they would establish a passenger train for Lemmon, which was some thirty miles home. The government owned this territory, and the en­ from the new homestead. terprising young farmers could "stake a claim" and "prove Mabel tells the story of the bedbugs in a rooming house in up" on a homestead. Minneapolis where they "laid ever" on their trip out. It

John Chinn, Sr.; thought this a splendid way for a young seemed the baby cried hard in the night and would not be couple to get a start in a financial way. His policy was there comforted, so they could get back to sleep. Upon further in­ should be no coddling of the Chinn boys and that they must vestigation, the bedbugs were discovered, and they im­ learn to be independent of the parental home. mediately ran "every whichway"' when the lights were turned The oldest of the Chinn family of eight, Max, took his wife on. No wonder this had been disturbing to the nine months old and daughter, Edna, and all worldly possessions and moved to baby. 82 John met his loved ones in Lemmon, but on their trip back to South Dakota, some thirty miles to the south, as has been the homestead, a horse got sick and a kind soul, a lady explained earlier in this story. Some nine miles from the Chinn homesteader, put them up for the night. farms was a small grocery store and post office, and the mail The temporary home was a sod shack that was already on was brought here at that time from Lemmon. This little place the east 160, as had been referred to. Sheriff Barry and was called Bentley at that time, and for a time, getting word his wife had originally lived in the sod shack, and there was from the loved ones "back home" meant this eighteen mile another sod building which had been referred to as the "bunk round trip to Bentley. house". It was said there had been cowboys who had slept in In the summer of 1910 a railroad was put in, going directly the bunk house and had their meals with the Barrys. No doubt through the area where the two Chinn families were living. the' 'cowboys " had been the men who tended the sheep. Only a Mr. Bentley, an enterprising pioneer and fine community few acres had been "broken", and the rest of the land had man, moved his small store and post office nine miles to the been grazing land for the sheep. north, and thus began the town of Bentley, as it is still known In going over these memories many years later, Mabel tells today, and the place where he had originally had his store was the story of seeing a garter snake upon the dirt floor of the later, when it was referred to, was called "Old Bentley". house. The baby was in her high chair, and Mabel was terrified that it might try to crawl up the leg of the chair. She grabbed her lye can and quickly doused Mr. Snake with the lye, and he, of course, made a hasty retreat. The buildings for the new farmstead were under way, and besides the house there was also a barn made entirely of sod, and also a hen house. But of course the field work had to come first that spring and summer, and John spent long and tiring hours behind his six horses and gang plow, as he broke up the prairie sod. The one room of the new house was made of lumber, but was - banked with sod, for warmth, and a "lean to", which was the ii kitchen, was entirely of sod, but with a good pine floor. The sod walls were plastered over with a clay material which served very well in keeping too much dirt from sifting down on the floor. It was some two miles from this new farmstead to the home of Max Chinns. Tl~eir daughter, Edna was some six years John Chinn's early house. older than Josephine. They also lived in a frame and sod house, and their pioneer living was rugged yet satisfying and North Dakota was a land of golden wheat fields in late interesting. They were delighted now to have brother John, August, and elevators for buying and storing of grain sprang and his wife and baby as their neighbors, and Josephine grew up along the new railroads. up with fond memories of being in their home for Sunday The "New Bentley" seemed to grow into a busy little town dinners, and the loving attention she received, - she even in a surprising short time. In a few months there were general vaguely remembers her antics to bring the familiar and stores, post office, school, bank, barber shop, etc. hearty laughter to Uncle Max, who always called her Another little town, Burt, was also coming into being along "Chubby". the railroad some four miles to the north. This little town, In order to acquaint readers with some of the other neigh­ besides its elevator, also had a general store, managed by Lon bors, mention should be made of two families. The Charles Chamberlain and his wife. This family lived in their neat and Berns, with their three children, were probably the John comfortable home above the store. Mr. and Mrs, Cham­ Chinns' best friends. They had come to North Dakota from berlain, with their two boys, became good friends of the John Wisconsin in 1907 to take advantage of the Homestead Act. Mr. Chinns. Burt, too, had a one room school, postoffice, print Bern had been a painter by trade in Wisconsin, but had been shop, etc. Many new homes were being built also in both warned by his doctor that the lead in the paint was beginning towns. to affect his health, and he was advised to spend more time North Dakota seemed to be a very healthful place for Mabel. working in the fresh air. They were a very fine family, and the The sinus trouble caused by the humidity in Iowa which had Berns and the Chinns visited back and forth and enjoyed many always bothered her some, seemed to have entirely disap­ Sunday dinners and visits together, as well as association peared in the more dry climate of North Dakota. Although through church services, etc. They have been good friends of summer days got real hot, it always cooled off after sundown the Chinns down through many years. and there was never any discomfort in sleeping. Actually, the Another family, the Otto Kibbels, were probably their years the Chinns lived in North Dakota, there was not nearly closest neighbors. They were good neighbors, and such a hard as much snow as the Iowans were apt to experience in their working family. In the busy seasons, Mrs. Kibbel worked in state. However, the Chinns were finding to their regret, that the field right along with her husband, and came in in the moisture was deficient in North Dakota. evening desperately tired. She once told the story of waking in It must be said here that considerable wind was charac­ the night and finding she had her sunbonnet ties still tied teristic of this state, and the Russian Thistle which grew very around her neick. She had been too tired and late the night quickly into rather a round plant with sharp prongs, were before to realize she had gone to bed with it hanging at the carried swiftly after the plant had dried, by strong winds. back of her neck. Their daughter, Myrtle, was Josephine's They went rolling over and over across many, many miles, age, and a son, Howard was some three years younger. until they might meet with a fence, where they piled up in an At the time the two Chinn families went to North Dakota in interesting fashion. Of course the dried plant spread its seed in 1906 and 1908, there was no railroad closer than Lemmon, this way, as it rolled along. 83 Anna and Ethel Erickson, back in Marshalltown, were however, as they felt sadness and compassion in the plight of having a flickering of a dream about this time, which many neighbors, including the Kibbels and die Berns. Those gradually took more shape, encouraged by the keen in­ whose homes had been spared "bedded down" those less terest of their father, Hans. They were wondering if they, too, fortunate. Many beds in many homes were made up on the might "stake a claim" in North Dakota,, and join other en­ floor. John, of course, helped his neighbors rebuild their terprising and hardy young people who were "opening up the homes. Some only added to a granery or rebuilt a shed to West". Now, at the time this is being written it is almost im­ make it do as a home in an emergency. Some of the neighbors possible to think two young women in their early twenties, found the sod portions of their homes had not been badly would dare to plan to live alone, and feel safe from thieves, damaged, and could be repaired. Some put up better homes malicious mischief, sex maniacs, etc. However, people set­ than the ones they had lost. tling the West were only friendly, and anxious to help one another, and the women of that territory felt no fear of being molested. So, the dream of the Erickson girls began to take on more reality, as they began to think through this adventure, and studied over catalogues with their father, talking of the many provisions that would be necessary for them to establish a little home on the prairie. That day in March, the 23rd, in the year 1910, had started out like any other day for the homesteaders in that area. Many of the farmers were plowing. But when John came in that noon and unhitched his six horses from the plow, he told his wife they should watch an ominous gray in the western sky, which might be smoke. But, before they could eat, they realized it truly was a prairie fire, and traveling at considerable speed toward them. John quickly grabbed a gunny sack, dipped it into a pail of water, and jumped on "Old Tom's" back and was off to fight a fire. As we sit now in our sheltered homes, realizing the protection we have in our cities and townships in our fire fighting equipment, we cannot imagine Mabel's anquish on that day. She was entirely alone with her small child, horses The John Chinn family. in the barn, their flock of hens, the house containing all of their personal possessions! Oh! The terrifying thoughts of a prairie blaze as it might engulf their little home! In the fall of 1909 Anna had come out to visit John and family, and after making some inquiry about the availability Soon the fire came close enough, being fed by the long of a small farm, and after Mabel and Anna had traveled prairie grass, that she could occasionally see the red blaze as around their area some by horse and buggy, they found a 160 it leaped toward the horizon, and at this time the horse, Tom, acre place, with small house made of both lumber and stone. came racing into the yard without his rider, and ran into the The man from whom they later made arrangements, to take barn. Of course, Mabel was more terrified than ever to have over his claim had come to North Dakota and had biilt this the horse come home alone! Where was her husband, John? cute little house, only to find to his disappointment that his Was he in danger? Had he been cornered in some way, and wife wouldn't leave their more comfortable surroundings in been overcome by smoke? What could she do to help him? another state. Sohe relinquished his claim to the Ericksons for Among her first thoughts, of course, was her responsibility in a stated amount. Anna, then, after spending six weeks visiting saving her baby's life. She realized that the all sod hen house the Chinns, returned to her Marshalltown home. would not burn, so this was where she left the child. The following spring, in April, 1910, Anna and her mother Then she raced to the barn and tried to untie the horses, but had necessary provisions and pieces of furniture, bedding, in her nervousness she was not able to loosen the ropes. Also, etc., shipped to the new town of Bentley, North Dakota. Of the horses had sensed that something was wrong, probably course John and Mabel were delighted to have their good smelling the smoke, and were most uneasy. Even though she friends moving into a little home close to them. (Some three could have untied the ropes, she realized afterward the horses miles probably). Ethel Erickson, who was a teacher, stayed were so frightened they would not have left the barn. Only on in Iowa until her school was out. Tom permitted Mabel to lead him out, and she took him also into the chickenhouse. Then she too started out for Bentley, North Dakota, and a A kind Providence was looking down in this little pioneer reunion with her mother and sister. family that day, as the fire had separated. Part went to the On the ground level of this new little Erickson home was north of their buildings and part to the south, leaving their their kitchen, with its little laundry stove for heat and cooking, buildings untouched, although two large haystacks were cupboard, small table, and chairs. Josephine, carefully burned and their wheat seed which was stored in the old house sorting back through her memories, can recall being in this that had been their home for a few weeks was badly scorched cozy little home. There was a stairs to the second floor, which and not fit to be used as seed. was used as a living room and bedroom. Their happiness in having their home spared was dampened Since Anna and Ethel had no means of transportation, "Old 84 Tom", the horse that had been shipped from Iowa, and who field. He hurried to her to inquire if there was trouble, and he was Mabel's driving horse, was sold to the Ericksons as well was soon on his way for the doctor. You see there was no as the single buggy. It seems a little strange that Mabel would difference between neighbors, and when there was trouble or have parted with her trusted driving horse, but Anna and misfortune, and all could be depended on day or night. Anna Ethel needed a good horse they could trust too. Therefore it came and stayed several days during this time of John's was arranged that Anna and Ethel should have the horse while illness, and they were grateful for the help of this good friend. they were in Dakota. There came a cold, cold day in January, 1911, when Josephine spent a day in her Uncle Max's home, which was *Stf3fe *• always a big treat, and one of the big attractions there was the privilege of having cookies from "Auntie's" stone cookie jar. But this day was different than other days when the youngster had spent time at her uncle's as things were happening at home! Later she found her mother in bed, and beside her lay a tiny little mite, wrapped in blankets: The tiniest piece of humanity that little Josephine had ever seen! It was explained that she had a new little sister, but all this was too much for one little tyke to comprehend!

It had been 14 below zero that previous night when Mabel told John, after they had retired for the night, that he would have to go for the doctor, that it was time for their child to be born! John had quickly harnessed his team, had dressed little Josephine and wrapped her well for going out into the cold night.

Bentley's first teacher, Miss Ethel Erickson, is shown standing at the right. To the left is Anna Erickson who filed on the homestead where the girls lived.

Ethel had the honor of being asked to be the first teacher in the Bentley school, which had just been completed by those conscientious people. It would have been impossible for the new teacher to drive her horse back and forth in the cold, so Anna and Ethel moved to an upstairs apartment in Bentley after the cold weather set in. Each weekend, however, they drove out to their little homestead, where they washed their clothes, baked and cooked up food for the following week. Since they were homesteading, it was required too that they should spend time every week at their little farm. Ethel en­ joyed her experience with those pioneer children so much and they have had an important place in her memories. Anna and Ethel enjoyed' the social life in Bentley, there were many good times with other young people.

John met with a haying accident in the fall of 1910. As he pulled into the yard with a hayrack load of hay, which was really prairie grass, but referred to as "hay" in that country, a line of the horses' harness broke and this frightened the team. They would have run, but Mabel succeeded in getting The little girls of our story, Josephine and Mildred. them stopped, but in the confusion John slipped from the load and slid down behind the horses, and the load passed over his body. He hurried then over the frozen ground to his neighbors, the He said, "I think I have some broken ribs-1 can't move." Kibbels, and asked Mr. Kibbel to go for a woman, a Mrs. However, a little later he was able to crawl to the house and Kleinjan, whom they had previously made arrangements with into bed. In her childish way, Josephine was so concerned that to help out at this time. John quickly went on then to the Max "poor Papa was hurt" and she warmed her little play flat iron Chinns, where Josephine was put to bed. Max harnessed his and put it at his feet. team then and went in to Bentley for the doctor. John and Mabel were surprised, when Max came with the doctor, that After doing what she could to make John comfortable, he also brought Anna,having called to her from the street Mabel stood Joesphine on a chair where she could watch down below that she was needed out at John's and that she could go the road, as Mabel went on the run for a neighbor to bring the out with him. There was so much preparation then in the little doctor. She probably had run a half mile or so when she was apartment. Anna was helped into all the clothes she could able to ft antically wave to her neighbor, Otto Kibbel, in his possibly wear to keep out the biting cold, some soap stones

85 were warmed for her feet. Mildred had been born around 4:30 many families who brought their language and way of life to A.M., January 25, 1911. these prairies. The Montgomery Ward and Sears catalogue houses were a Oh! The excitement and happy anticipation of that Godsend to these pioneer people, and orders were usually sent Christmas day in 1912! This was the first time there had ever for all clothing, as well as staple groceries. Even the cooking been a decorated "tree' for the little girls' Christmas, and the stoves and heaters and pieces of furniture were shipped by suspense and wonder of the occasion has been remembered freight to the nearest depot. Boxes of cereal, prunes, syrup, and cherished down through many years. crackers, dry beans, sugar, flour, etc., arrived regularly from Max and Cora and daughter Edna were spending the day at the mail order houses. Of course, after the towns of Burt and the John Chinns, and the little girls were kept out of the living Bentley had been established and there were general stores room while the "Tree" was decorated, and several delicious there who carried the grocery items, the Chinn families looking packages, wrapped in tissue paper, were arranged on purchased many of their needs there, - including some of their the library table under the large, round Russian Thistle, which clothing, yard goods, etc. Of course people who lived close had been carefully chosen from many others which had enough to buy in the larger town of Mott, with its several previously come tumbling over many acres, until they had general stores, did so, but this town was far enough from the become caught in one of John's fences. My! How proud that Chinns that it took a two hour drive to arrive there behind the thistle must have felt to be bringing such joy into the humble team of horses, and it was not often that the trip was made. little home of this pioneer family and the festivities they were North Dakota is an interesting state, being quite level, but sharing with loved ones. Surely no big expensive evergreen spotted with what are called "buttes". These are not gradual with beautiful twinkling lights ever meant more to two elevations, but sharp, distinct hills in a group, as a miniature children than the dry tumbling weed, after it had been hung mountain chain. One of these butte chains was a part of with colored balls and strings of popcorn. This was a simple pasture land on the south of the John Chinn buildings, owned Christmas celebration in a simple, humble home, but the by the Kibbels, and were a distance of one-half or three- lesson of Christian living, compassion for others, un­ fourths of a mile. Occasionally the Max and John Chinn selfishness, and good example, became a part of the daily families, with the Erickson sisters, would have a picnic in the lives of these children. buttes and pick berries which grew on small bushes. Several About this time John and Mabel were thinking that syrup pails of berries were picked at different times and Joesphine should be starting school, but had a deep concern carried back home for sauce and pies. about the distance to the country school in their district. This Prairie dogs, little gohper-like animals, lived under-ground was around three miles, and much too far for a little girl to in the pasture just north of the buttes. They would stand up walk, of course. Consequently, that fall, Josephine, now six straight on their back legs for a few seconds, giving a little years old, was boarded out with the banker and'his nice wife bark, then quickly drop back into their holes. A young man and baby in Burt, and she was enrolled in the first grade there, who had come to North Dakota to visit the Erickson sisters in the one-room school. But this arrangement only worked for shot one of these little animals for roasting. Anna had seen to a couple of weeks or so, as when Josephine saw her Mom and the preparation of that part of the Sunday dinner at the litt-3 sister driving into town on Friday afternoon for her, she Chinns. Of course, a complete meal had been prepared and jumped up and down in glee, and later fell into her mother's this wild meat was only passed around the table in fun and arms sobbing. adventure. After a few nibbles it was agreed the meat was Although everything had been most pleasant in the home of entirely too greasy, and had a strong flavor. This was the first the Heinrichs, she was just too young to be separated from her and last time one of the prairie dogs was prepared for a meal home and family. However, Mabel had been a fine teacher of at the Chinns. all elementary grades, and Josephine began to learn well The coyote was another animal familiar to the Dakotans. under her mother's tutoring. This was a gray animal, similar to the wolf, and about that In the fall of 1913 Mabel and the little girls came back to size. They apparently called and answered each other after Iowa to visit, and went on from Iowa to Kansas to visit Mabel's night by howling. Josephine and Mildred pulled their bedding parents there. The trees in these states were a source of much over their ears many nights, that the mournful and scary wonderment to the little girls who were growing up in a state howling might not be heard quite so plainly. These coyotes where there were no trees,except those which grew along a raided many chicken houses after dark and carried away river bank, where there was sufficient moisture for their defenseless hens as their next meal. Mabel lost most of her growth. An apple tree in the yard of the aunt and uncle, hens one night to the coyotes soon after their move to North Marion and Rose Perry, with the pretty red apples lying Dakota. beneath it, was most fascinating. Several of the Iowa relatives came to visit the Chinn Mabel found, upon her return to their home, that husband families. Father and Mother Chinn came in the summer of John had gained several pounds while he had been "bat­ 1911, and Father Chinn picked up many buffalo horns, which ching", apparently because of the. bread and milk that had were a relic at that time, of course, and he shot many jack been many a meal for him. rabbits. Father Chinn had been a veteran of the Civil War, and The following September, when another school year was was a splendid marksman, and enjoyed hunting. beginning, John and Mabel started Josephine in the "Morris" Harry Chinn, a bachelor brother from Minneapolis, who school, which was three miles from their home, and Josephine worked for the railroad and traveled on a pass, came several thought a lot of the pretty girl, Eva Little, who was the different summers to visit, and brother Charles Chinn and teacher. Mabel always took Josephine part of the way to family, also from Marshalltown, came one summer and also school in the good weather by horse and buggy, & met her in sister Minnie Chinn Ogan and her small son, Ralph, from the afternoon, with little Mildred along for the ride. In the Marshalltown. winter weather her father furnished the transportation to and Many immigrants from Russia were taking advantage of from the school. On the cold winter days, Josephine had a this opportunity to establish a new home in a new land, as heavy quilted wool cape over a winter coat, warm fleecelined North and South Dakota became the first home of many, overshoes, and with her feet on a soapstone. 86 The following September, when Josephine was getting yard, and with a few whacks from her garden hoe, she went started in school, Anna and Ethel had now "proved up" on about her washing preparations. their claim, had lived on the place the required time, and with But before the washing had to be the usual trip part way to many fond memories and some regrets, they had moved back school with the older daughter, with the younger one along for to their home in LaMoille, Iowa, which was a town west of the ride, as of course, she was never left at home alone. Before Marshalltown. they left the yard, another snake was noticed, and killed with The little girls in our story found a most interesting form of the buggy whip. After returning home, she killed another one entertainment. As is often the case, youngsters who use their in the yard. Later, John said that he had killed two or three imagination find more joy in their play, and do not feel nearly that morning before leaving for the field. as bored as those who have many expensive toys. While Josephine and Mildred were still quite small, they began to cut In the middle of the morning the busy washerwoman looked out paper people out of catalogues, always looking forward to up from her washboard and listened. The hens in the hen house the family having a new catalogue so they could begin cutting were making a lot of noise; much frightened cackling came in the old one. from the sod building. Leaving Mildred playing with the But as far as the paper people were concerned, it took little clothes pins on the floor, which was a favorite pastime, she Mildred, age four, before she started to school, to come up hurried out to investigate. As she approached she saw three or four snakes that were apparently trying to become separated with the best discovery! When Josephine got home one school from each other! This most unusual sight was most alarming afternoon, Mildred said she had something important to show to the hens. They were probably most resentful too, as this was her, so they sat down on the floor, surrounded by the paper their home, and they didn't care much for this wiggling mess. families and the catalogue. Tke intrusion was just too much, and they wanted to get on "See," Mildred said, "If we find a lady going with the day's work of laying the usual two dozen eggs. the right way," then her dress can be cut out and laid upon this mother in our family, and she will have a new dress, Poor Mabel was beside herself to know how to handle this and we can have lots of clothes for our people that way." And strange situation! She had lived through other experiences in sure enough, her idea worked out just fine and added greatly their prairie home, but this was something she hadn't faced to their pleasure in the play with the "outfits, as they were before! But she realized this was something her husband must always called. Josephine had nothing but admiration for little handle. She ran to the edge of the field, where he was plowing, sister after that. To think that she had come up with such a and as he came near, she waved to him. However, he seemed good idea was hard to realize! It just changed all of to think this was an affectionate greeting, and went on to make the "cutout" playing from that time on. Each another round. But when he came around again and she was lady, each child, had many clothes. After each family still there, waving and gesturing in a most determined way, he had their home arranged on the floor, and their furniture had hurried to her to inquire if there was trouble. been placed in the proper room, then mother was carefully With a pitchfork, John found a nest of snakes had hibernated dressed in something attractive, and with the dress carefully in the sod walls of the chicken house, and since this was the held on, would leave home to do her marketing or all of the first warm sunny day of March, they were coming out of family, after getting appropriately dressed, would walk over hibernation. Forty six of the reptiles, including those killed to visit another family. earlier in the day, were counted as they were killed and The girl's mother, for some reason they never quite un­ thrown into a wagon box, which was pulled up to the sod derstood, seemed to dislike, or at least tire of so much building for this purpose. "playing with the cutouts". In spite of their always being No doubt the poor hens were glad to have that eventful day careful to keep the paper scraps in a pan, their mother would in their lives come to a close, and surely Mabel hoped other say, "Oh, they make such a mess, such a mess! wash days that spring in 1915 would be less eventful. Wash day on that Monday morning in March, 1915, started out as other wash days. It was always a very tiring day for For our two little girls, the stacking of wheat, after it had Mabel, and Josephine remembers her mother was more apt to been cut by the binder and automatically tied into bundles by be cranky on that day than any other! Water was lifted by twine, then thrown out by the machine, was a most interesting bucket from the barrel at the side of the house and carried into time. the house and poured into a boiler on the range, to be heated The fresh golden bundles were pitched onto a hay rack and for washing. These barrels of water had been filled from a hauled a short distance to stacks which were built up of these "spring" an eighth of a mile from the buildings (it was lovely, bundles. It was exciting playing around the stacks, and there clear, cold water) and was hauled by "stone boat" behind the were millions of grasshoppers to be dodged as they jumped in team. This stone boat was actually a sled: a vehicle with sled all directions. Often they excreted a brown liquid which would runners, not wheels, and it was very hard for the team to drag make a bad stain on good clothing. At that time it was said these barrels of water. they "spit tobacco juice". After this water had been heated on the range, it was dipped Mabel worked right alongside her husband in this work into a pail and carried to the galvanized wash tub. Another tub really taking a man's place. Preparatory to going to the field of water was prepared with the cold water for rinsing the for the day, a lunch was prepared, and Oh! How exciting to clothes. Mabel did all of her washing by rubbing the clothes up later eat that lunch in the shade of the big stacks. The lovely and down over a washboard. After the washing and rinsing, home-made bread never tasted better! As cold water as the clothes were carried out to the clothes line to be hung for possible had been poured into a clean syrup pail, along with a drying. Of course, John had helped all he could with the small amount of vinegar and sugar, and perhaps a few grains preparation of this water for washing, but he often had his own of ginger, to make the drink to take to the field, and the pail field work, starting as early in the morning as possible. was set in the shade of the stacks. After Mildred and Josephine However, this first warm and sunny day in March was had added many more years to life, they have looked back and destined to be a different wash day. As Mabel was carrying remember the sheer delight of their turn at the pail of vinegar her wash water from outside, she saw a garter snake in the water! 87 In 1916 the Chinns decided the time had come that they summer a poison bran was spread, hoping to stop the worst of might have a frame house and move from the sod and frame the slaughter in the fields. house where they had lived up until now. The anticipation of a Perhaps a hundred or more years before the time that our new house is a feeling that cannot be recorded on paper! John story takes place, buffalo and Indians had roamed through built the house himself, with the help of a young man he had this territory. Buffalo horns were quite abundant and a relic in hired to help. Work was started on it in the early spring, and this family to this day is a piece of buffalo tooth. John's father, John worked on it whenever there was time, with the field when he had visited and walked through the buttes, had picked work coming first, of course. up many buffalo horns and had taken them to his home in The house had a kitchen, dining room, and living room, with Marshalltown. stairs leading to the second story, where there was a hall, and Josephine, in her many trips over the pasture, in "bringing three bedrooms. Oh! How proud Josephine and Mildred were in the cows" found an arrangement of rocks carefully laid in a to have a room of their own! circle, and in her stories of the Indians, she recognized this as Pretty dresses, adorning attractive young ladies, made a a place where a wigwam had probably stood, as the stories big impression on Mildred and Josephine, and especially when told of a row of rocks always encircling the wigwam. Since no worn by their much admired and beloved Anna and white man had lived on those acres previously, it did seem Ethel.After Anna and Ethel had proved up en their claim and logical that this had been an Indian home at a previous time. It had moved back to Marshalltown, they came to visit the was interesting to look back, with closed eyes, and visualize Chinns some two or three different summers. Oh! What a joy the Indian family going about their business of living right to have them! How much love and pleasure they brought to there where the white man now tilled the fields, and white our little family, especially to John and Mabel, who missed children brought the cattle into the barnyard, past the historic the companionship of other young people, and who often felt circle of stones. the pangs of homesickness for their relatives and friends in About this time John and Mabel were feeling a deepening Iowa and Kansas. concern and frustration about the school system in their No cultivated and fertilized flower bed ever grew yellow district. They felt that the school should be more centrally sweet peas as hardy and beautiful as those which grew wild in located, and should not be three miles from their home, as now a back pasture of this farm. A wide area of pasture nurtured was the case. They were attempting to convince those on the long-stemmed, vigorous sweet peas. The little girls of our school board that the building should be moved. But nothing story picked many bouquets there and carried them home to seemed to be decided in their favor. adorn the round oak table. Much time was spent in thispar- After the Chinns moved into their new home in the summer ticular area, as the cattle had previously broken into a field of of 1916, they were asked by a young man teacher and his wife corn along the farther most part of the farm; this being around if they would rent the older house they had just moved from. one-half mile from the buildings. And, yes, although corn had This young man teacher was the new teacher in the Morris been almost unknown in North Dakota, some was beginning to School, and was looking for a place in the area to make his be raised and put into silos, which was the case here. home. A new barn had several years since replaced the sod barn, Now the old house, and particularly the newer bedroom had and a silo had also been put up. Into this new silo the green become the girls' play house, at least for that present time, corn, after it was cut and hauled in, was chopped and blown and before it could serve as a home, several pails of dirt had to into the silo, and packed down. This corn was an important be carried outside. This had been "flour", "sugar", etc. for crop, and the cattle, of course, had to be watched, that they the pretend "family" that was living there. wouldn't break into it. Since they had already had a taste of This couple had a darling little girl, Theo, and for Josephine the succulent crop, they were determined to get more. and Mildred to have a baby of a year living in the same yard The only solution seemed to be that the girls, now probably was the most wonderful thing that ever happened! Mr. Ray ages five and eight, should spend most of the day watching had his own team of horses, and he took Josephine to and from them. The two-seated buggy was taken to the pasture and left school, which was a nice arrangement. there as shade and a resting place, and many, many hours The following school year the Rays moved into Burt, as Mrs. were spent there as the girls cut out paper dolls from old Ray was going to teach one room of the two room school there, catalogues. and Mr. Ray would bring Theo to Mabel for the day, pick up Josephine, and go on to the school, three miles to the east. There were three or four hills right in the area where the However, Mr. Ray, in the spring of 1918, had a misun­ girls were to watch the cattle, and they lined the area of derstanding with the school board in that district, and sud­ pretend "homes" on these hills with small rocks, which were denly gave up the school. This was quite disturbing to plentiful,. A row of rocks showed all the partitions of the Josephine's parents, who felt she needed that six weeks of house, too. school. Consequently, it was arranged with their good neigh­ At one corner of this small area was a stagnant pool of bors, the Berns, that Josephine might board with them until water. One afternoon our same little girls waded in that soft the latter part of May, as their daughter, Enid taught the mud and water, and made moss babies out of the dirty, stringy school in their district. "mudhole". Apparently a kind Providence was looking after This was an exciting change in little Josephine's life; to be them, and there were no ill effects from messing in that im­ living in another home from Monday to Friday, and getting pure water! aquainted with youngsters in another school, etc. But to be The Chinn families had soon found after their move to this away from parents and little sister was rather disturbing too, state that there was not enough moisture for growing crops. So and on one occasion a few tears were shed in private, and often when crops looked fine in the spring and hopes ran high, carefully wiped away. The Berns, lovely people that they they were most discouraged to see their crops burn up in the were, made everything pleasant for a little girl away from hot sun, and without the good rains that Iowa would be ex­ home. periencing. A common disease in the wheat fields was called After walking home from school in the late afternoons, Enid "rust". Grasshoppers often came in great numbers, and one cut generous slices of her mother's home made bread, and 88 lifting the lid of the range, with the bread held by the tines of rain and all three girls ran around barefoot in the mud. the fork, the bread was carefully suspended over the glowing Edna was just enough older that Josephine and Mildred for coals, and soon a golden brown piece of toast was ready for the them to enjoy so much being with her. As is usually the way, afternoon snack. Oh! How yummy, after being spread with small children think those just older are most fascinating! Mrs. Bern's homemade butter!! Edna was a lot of fun, and our little girls thought there was Around 1916 a used Ford was purchased, and the pride of nobody quite like her. owning one's own automobile was beyond words to describe. In the spring and summer of 1918, John and Now the trips into Burt to church were thoroughly enjoyed, Mabel made several calls on members of the school district and driving into Mott, twelve miles away, did not take so and others in authority, still attempting to have the school much of the day as it had behind the horses. Yes, this moved closer to their homestead, but they were never able to family was coming up in the world! accomplish anything. Mildred would soon be ready for school Some mention should be made here of the pioneer church too, which added to their concern. services. For the first few years of our story, there was only Later in the summer of 1918, Josephine and Mildred were an occasional service in the country schools, and occasional told something that their parents had been working on for services in the towns of Bentley and Burt, when it would be some time - plans had been made for a drastic change. possible to obtain a supply minister, or to share one with another church, usually from Mott. Around the year 1914, both towns built new two-room schools, with chemical toilets in the basement, which seemed like a most wonderful luxury, especially to children who had never known anything but "outside plumbing". Church and Sunday School was held regularly in the new Burt School, and Mrs. Chamberlin, the good friend in the general store, was Josephine's Sunday School teacher. At­ tending Sunday School and church, in at least the good weather, became quite a regular thing with the Chinns. The trip was made, of course, before the purchase of the Ford, in a two-seated buggy, behind the team of black horses which John had raised, Prince and Joe. Even on the hottest days, two little girls wore long white, ribbed stockings. To go without stockings just wasn't proper, - it simply was not done, but on the way home they were privileged to discard the stockings and shoes and go the rest of the way barefoot. Every spring new white canvass oxfords with rubber soles were a great joy to the girls. High-topped leather shoes were worn through the winter, and in the spring these new "slippers" felt so light and good to the feet. In the summer of 1918 and the months that followed, the Chinn family enjoyed more recreation and good times as a family, since they now had their Ford, and a better form of transportation. Upon one occasion there was a picnic with the Ray family along the Cannon Ball River, with pictures taken on that lovely Sunday afternoon. Also, there was another picnic along the river when Anna and Ethel were visiting from Iowa. A Fourth of July celebration in Burt was a gala and patriotic event, with fire crackers and flags displayed, ice cream cones, picnic dinners, and a ball game in the afternoon. Mabel had attended "Ladies Aid" meetings during the good weather several different years, always driving her faithful John Chinn with daughters, Josephine and Mildred. horse, Tom. Going with Mamma to her meetings, perhaps to homes where there would be other children, and to be served Since they hadn't been able to get the school moved closer to lunch, and usually a glass of lemonade; this was a big treat to them, and since Mildred would soon be of school age too, they two little girls. had decided to move from their homestead to the little set­ During the summer of 1918, brother Harry came to visit, and tlement known as Watrous. This little western settlement John and family drove in to Mott to pick him up at the Max consisted of an elevator, depot, etc. and John was hired by the Chinns. After visiting a few minutes with them, and discussing stockholders to be manager of the elevator, and also he was to the time that Harry would be visiting, and all of them wanting carry the mail over the rural route out of Watrous. This was a to be together, it was planned that Max, Cora, and Edna three times a week route, and the trip was a thirty mile trip. should also come out on that Saturday afternoon and stay over Mabel was hired to be a substitute postmistress. This was to Sunday. My! How exciting it was for all to be packed into the be only temporary, as two in the family could not be hired in Ford for the twelve mile ride. postal positions, but Mabel was post mistress for several Upon arriving home, two "fries" were grabbed up and months, until those in authority could find someone else in the placed beneath an overturned tub. Water was then heated for area to act as post mistress. John started his work of carrying scalding, and later the dead, scalded roosters were "picked" the mail some two months or so before their move into the by Edna, Josephine, and Mildred. There had just been a big town of Watours. 89 However, before the move to the new place, it was decided It seems to just be a part of growing up for the children in that Mildred must have her tonsils out. She had always been the family to quarrel some, and to say real cutting hurting frail and underweight and her parents realized she must have things to each other; sometimes the older one will be over­ very good care if they were to raise her. There seemed to be bearing with the younger, etc. But actually there was very, nothing wrong organically, but she continued to be slight. As very little of this between the two Chinn girls. However, one was often thought until more recent years, perhaps her tonsils little episode has remained as a keen memory for Josephine. were infected, and putting impurities into her system, and it Josephine had been asked in the summer of 1919 to bring her would be wise to have her tonsils removed. clothes and plan to spend a few days in the Hatcher home in Arrangements were made for this operation to take place in Burt. Mr. Hatcher was the blacksmith in Burt, and he had a the Max Chinn home in Mott (there was no hospital closer than nice family. Their oldest girl was Josephine's age. Of course, fifty or seventy five miles). However, specialists came from Josephine looked forward to this: She was feeling quite grown one of the larger places regularly to care for the ear and throat up and important. Wasn't she going away from home by patients in Mott and vicinity. The dining room table was fixed herself, to visit a friend? But that Sunday afternoon Mrs. as a place for the surgery. Hatcher asked the Chinns, as the families were together, why We can imagine the apprehension of these parents as their Mildred couldn't stay too, that they would like to have her! youngest was made ready for this experience. How gladly And it was arranged that Mabel should take clothes to her the either of them would have taken her place, if that were following day. possible. Of course there were prayers that God would be Now, this deflated Josephine's ego considerably! As soon as caring for their child, and that she might be brought to more she could get Mildred to one side she demanded to know why robust health. on earth she should be there! "Hadn't I been asked earlier in All did not go as well with the operation as they had hoped, the week to spend a few days with my friend? " Well, poor little as the doctor had given her too much anesthetic and she was Mildred broke into tears at this, and then Josephine had a few much too long in coming out from under its effects. Whether pangs of regret and attempted to sooth the little sister, but she This was as serious a thing as the parents and the aunt and was still real provoked. However, she hoped that "Mama" uncle thought, we do not know, the doctors apparently were wouldn't hear about her making Mildred cry! concerned also. Now, many, many years later, Josephine remembers John later in the afternoon stopped at the Watrous school hurting Mildred with her disagreeable manner and cutting where Josephine was now attending, and told her little sister words. The sisters have been real close through all their had come through the operation all right. years, and Josephine regrets deeply that she ever, ever More loving care was given Mildred in the weeks ahead, as brought pain to Mildred. There probably were other times, she regained her strength. However, up until her high school too, but this is the one that stays in the memory. If only we years, she continued to be below normal weight. could realize before the sharp words come, how much we will As is always the way with children, the move on to a new regret them. How ashamed we are as we remember! small farm in the settlement of Watrous, and leaving the Life went along quite smoothly and pleasantly as our family familiar and beloved plains and hills of their first home was lived in Watrous. It was exciting to have the bags of mail come rather sad. And to move from the new house, where they had to the house and to be sorted and put in the proper pigeon holes lived only a couple of years, and leaving their own bedroom: in the little room off the kitchen that served as a post office. Yes, there was considerable regret here. But there would be The girls were quite proud to think their mother was the post the excitement of moving all their possessions into a frame mistress. John drove his Ford over the mail route, and in the house in Watrous that was only two years old. There two nice winter had fixed his buggy with sleigh runners, and the buggy bedrooms upstairs with closets, so the girls had their own top with the side curtains and a charcoal footwarmer, he was room. quite comfortable on the cold days. Sixty acres went with this place, and John, for the There was an old house on this place, banked by sod, that first year, farmed the "home place" also. The second year a became the girls' playhouse. On the upstairs floor the girls renter was put on the homestead. played with their cutout families by the hour. A family a mile There were three other sets of farm buildings only an eighth south had two girls the age of the Chinn girls, and they visited of a mile from this new Chinn_home, besides the school, back and forth, all four playing with the "cutouts". This was elevator, and depot. It was really a convenience having the the Risty family, the girls being Thelma and Gladys Risty. school so close, and the girls went home for lunch, and had Here as in the first home, the girls had a cow herding chore. "much fun" riding stick horses back and forth. The teacher Now they only had a couple of cows and two or three growing here was Miss Alma Jepson, and she boarded at the place just calves, but there was no fence around it, so the girls were to across the road west from the school. Miss Jepson was a good "watch the cattle". Watrous had stock yards, with chutes for teacher, well liked by pupils and parents. Library books were loading cattle into railroad cars. These partitioned sections available from the supply in the school, and Josephine began were fun to run and play through. Mud cakes and cookies were enjoying story books. Even the two months before the move in stirred up and put to bake there in the hot sun. They even to Watrous, she was devouring a story book when she was frosted one cake, as an experiment, with the fresh soft brown supposed to be helping with some of the work. And many manure from one of the cows! If memory serves correctly, the evenings she would sit on the top step of the stairs beside a odor sort of discouraged this particular kind of frosting. Too little kerosene lamp, while her parents were in the barn bad, as it had been just the right color to be chocolate frosting! milking, and while she was supposed to be in bed. "Nellie's But after all it had only been an experiment! Silver Mine," and "Gulliver's Travels" were read on the top step, it is remembered. When the kitchen door was opened For several years John and Mabel had been planning on a below, she realized her Mom had come in with a pail of milk, trip to Marshalltown together with the girls. This was to be a and this was her signal to turn down the wick and creep family vacation. The particular occasion was the 50th wedding quickly into bed. anniversary of John's parents, on the 25th of November, 1919. Oh! the happy anticipation! 90 Many weeks before, Mabel had ripped up one of her all the Chinn children had grown up, was ignited by sparks discarded and well worn coats, had washed and turned the from the chimney in the early morning, and burned to ground. pieces, and had hired a lady who took in sewing to make The farm was now being purchased by Charles, and he and his Josephine a coat, and incidentally she did it very well, and family had lived there some six years. Josephine was most proud of the new coat and the pretty After a few days, Mabel went to Kansas to visit her parents buttons. Mabel stitched up attractive new dresses for and other relatives there, and John and Max, (who had also Josephine and Mildred, and she hired a lady to come to the been in Iowa) took the train back to North Dakota. It was house for a few days to make a dress for herself. A frilly pink remembered afterward that the train had been poorly heated, blouse came from Montgomery Ward to be added to Mabel's and this was at a particularly cold spell. This was the time of traveling clothes. John looked handsome in his new brown the first World War, and there were many privations, as there suit, and jaunty new wool cap. are during wartime, and the fuel had been scarce on the Arrangements were made to have a substitute carry the passenger trains. mail on the route, and by this time Mabel had been relievec1 of her postmistress duties, as a neighbor girl had been appointed Josephine and Mildred stayed with Grandpa and Grandma and all of the record keeping books, etc., had been moved into Chinn until their mother arrived back from Kansas a week another yard. later, and they returned to North Dakota. However, when John met them at the Watrous depot that evening, they found that he was sick, really too sick to have walked the short distance to the depot. Mabel hurried into her older clothes and went out to milk the two cows, as John had been too poorly that evening to get the chores done. That night he ran a high fever and was delirious. The next day Mabel called Max and Cora in Mott, and they hurried right up to stay and help during his sickness. Then followed a week of deep anxiety for John. Fear clutched at the hearts of his loved ones, and mail was sent to Marshalltown, telling of his serious illness. The doctor's diagnosis was pneumonia, which followed a cold John had contracted in the poorly heated passenger train on the trip home. Mabel and Max sat constantly by his side, giving him all the care and help they possibly could, and the good neighbor, Mrs. Risty, was there most of that week, taking charge of the kit­ chen work, and another neighbor lady, Mrs. Hallam, was also there part of the time. Auntie, as the girls called her, stayed in the upstairs room, trying to keep the girls company, and to keep them away from the sick room. Again, the girls played with the cutouts some, but this time they didn't especially enjoy the play. Although they were quite young, they were sensing the seriousness of A*, their father's illness. The coughing and loud delirious voice were heard over the Josephine and Mildred Chinn in early homestead days. little house, and there was deep concern, as pneumonia was much feared at that time, before the days of penicillin. The long awaited day finally came for the start on the long It is painful to recall the sadness of that morning when the train ride to Marshalltown, Iowa. A neighbor took them in his girls' mother told then their Papa could not get better. bobsled on that November day to board the train at Bentley. A Josephine cried out, "Oh, won't God let us keep him?" Later vacation in Iowa was to be a long remembered occasion. This they went in to see him and he smiled weakly at them, was John's first trip to Marshalltown in twelve years. For the knowing them, but referred to Cora as "the big girl", and not little girls, to see aunts, uncles, and cousins they hadn't recognizing her. remembered was most exciting. There was an affectionate On the following morning, around 10 A.M. on December greeting with the sweet and likable Grandma Chinn, and the 28th, 1919, ifter his losing battle with congested lungs and Grandpa Chinn with his long gray beard and twinkling eyes. phlegm he could not bring up, and a fever that could not be A big meal was prepared and two long tables were set up to broken, he slipped away from this life, and the girls were accommodate the "Chinn Clan" as they celebrated the an­ brought down from the upstairs to view for a few minutes the niversary. The Chinns' seven children were there, five of them white lifeless face of the beloved Papa. Besides their own with their families, and it was a happy occasion. A childish sorrow, it hurt to see the heartbreak of their mother, photographer came in the afternoon to take pictures. There as she sobbed in the arms of her brother-in-law. was an open house that evening, and a chance for The good friends, the Berns, were the first to come that congratulations and visits with many friends, and a reunion afternoon to attempt to console the sorrowing family, and with Anna and Ethel. Later a few days were spent at the offer their help. Marion Perry home. It was good to be with sister, Rose, and A couple of days later, after arrangements could be made, a cousin, Ruth. funeral service was held in the home, and the casket was then Yes, this had been a very happy occasion, but the happiness lifted on to a hayrack, pulled by John's team of black horses, of one day was to be marked by sadness trie following day, as with the little family dog, Nettie, trotting along, beneath the brother Charles' house, which had been the Chinn home where wagon, as friends afterward told. The casket wa« taker; the 91 short distance to the Watrous depot, and placed in the train for Mabel had explained to her girls after their father's death the trip to Marshalltown. that he wanted them to move back to Iowa. After he was told Josephine and Mildred stayed with the aunt and uncle in he was too sick to recover, he asked that his body be taken Mott, while Mabel, accompanied by Mrs. Risty who was to go back to the beautiful cemetery in Marshalltown, and that as far as Minneapolis where she had relatives, boarded the Mabel try to help his brother Charles, in raising his family; train also. Harry Chinn met Mabel and his brother's body in the three children who had lost their mother just six months Minneapolis, and wfent on to Marshalltown with them. previously. Funeral services were held in Marshalltown in the And, so it was that the rumbling railroad cars bore the three Methodist Church where John had been a member, on of our little family, around the first of October, 1920 to Mar­ January 1, 1920, and he was buried in Riverside Cemetery shall County, Iowa, where a new chapter in life was to begin among others of his family, in the Chinn family plot. for them. We can only imagine the heartache in the breast of John's sweet little mother to have had this one more sad cir­ cumstance occur in the family that knew such joy only a month before. At that time, of course, their seven children and grandchildren had gathered (five from other states), for such a happy, festive anniversary. It was hard to realize that so much misfortune could have come to one family in such a short time. In June of 1919, son Charles had lost his wife in childbirth. Then there had been the burning of the house where they had raised their family, and which farm Charles was now buying. Following these two sorrows came the sudden death of their fourth boy, his father's namesake. Lydia and John Sr., however, had a wonderful religious faith. Lydia had been the daughter of Methodist Minister and her belief was that God had a purpose, even though we were not at the time to realize just what his purpose was. Still, she felt, "We must not question His wisdom". The wonderful faith of this couple had helped them through two previous deaths in the immediate family, as they gave up a little daughter of one year, and son in his twenties, James, after Max and John moved to North Dakota. Anna walked with Josephine and Mildred through that wonderful field of gently waving rye. This rye was a living tribute to John, who had planted it there in the fall. The healthy young man had been full of the joy of living and the pleasure of putting in another crop with the anticipation of the harvest the following summer. But it was not God's plan that John would cut and work at the threshing of this rye. Mr. Bern and his son Ivan, were glad to take over this task the following July. Anna, wonderfully good friend that she was, had come that summer to help bolster the spirits oi the little family who were rather lonely. Trips from state to state at that time were only beginning to Mabel Chinn and Ethel Erickson, life-long friends, in 1962. be the accepted thing, and that means of travel at vacation time was rather a new adventure. Mabel, Josephine, and Mildred were so excited at the prospect of Mabel's sister Rose, The adventure and hard work of homesteading in North and brother-in-law, Marion Perry, coming for a visit in their Dakota had not been a big financial success. However, the Model T Ford. It was an affectionate greeting indeed, that satisfaction one feels in knowing that big areas of prairie followed their driving into the yard in Watrous. grsss have been converted into productive farm land cannot During the summer Mabel was beginning to plan for the be figured in dollars and cents. John and Mabel had converted farm sale, including most of the furniture, and was an­ these prairie acres "by the sweat of the brow" into farm fields ticipating the move to Marshalltown. Mabel was a good that other men would till down through generations to come. business woman, and the management and dealing with the The imprint one leaves in a community through efforts to renter on their homestead had been in capable hands these help form local governments; in lending support to establish past months. schools, and church services; a cooperative of the farmers in Josephine and Mildred enrolled for only one month in the the area to establish a market for grain, which was known as Watrous school that September, where a new teacher had the Equity Union; in just being a part of wholesome living in a been hired. "young state"; these are efforts and accomplishments for Later in September the sale took place, and the machinery, which John was to be remembered and spoken of highly for horses, cows, and furniture, were auctioned off, and taken years to come. Yes, he and his wife, their good friends, the from the yard by the new owners. The hardest part of this was Erickson sisters, his brother Max and wife, the Berns and the the parting with the horses, particularly the black team which Kibbels; these people and other neighbors played a big part in two horses had been raised from frisky little black colts a few building the communities of Burt, Bentley, and Watrous, years before. North Dakota. 92 SOME CHILDHOOD MEMORIES OF A DAUGHTER OF THE PIONEERS By Themla (Thompson) Olson

It was a day that sparkled with the sun and bright new green every arrival home. Usually we waited for him in the dusk of of spring. I was a few months over three years old, and I evening; if we were outdoors the sound of his wagon would be remember it because it was the day my baby brother was our signal to fly down the road to greet him joyfully at the little born. May 2, 1918. post. Sometimes he stopped and we would climb aboard, but Now it is 1974. I reach into the heap of tangled yarn that now and again we had to be content to run along behind. We makes up the good and bad of life. From my accumulation of were always happy to see Papa. He was such a fun person. things to remember I snatch out the good with splendid en­ And he always brought pepperments and lemon drops when he thusiasm. Tenderly, wistfully, like a miser fondling over the had been at the store. coins of his savings, I mull over those happy times. How That morning, for some reason, we were quiet. We didn't pleasant, indeed how wonderful, to have them here to live ask our endless questions as we rode along, probably because over and over again. Papa was well occupied with his job of driving the bays, Bill But what of the ill winds that must have blown now and and Frank, and holding Baby Alice, recently turned a year THEN? Surely there were bits and pieces of ugliness, poverty, old, at the same time. disappointment? I must look again. So I dig deeper to pull out the shabbier threads, Soon we drove into the Edmunds farmyard with its faded and dim, and hidden away so deep. An invisible sifting huge imposing barn dominating the landscape. We passed of dust seems to drift up, stinging my nostrils and burning my the red buildings and came to the frame house nestled amid eyes. And some memories do return, as cinders flying on the trees leafing out in fresh greenery. winds of oblivion where I had cast them, hopefully forever, Mrs. Edmunds seemed to be expecting us. She came out of those many years ago. her house smiling and rosy cheeked, and Papa handed Alice For the first time in a long, long time I peer at them. Yes. down to her. The rest of us climbed down at Papa's whispered Life of a pioneer family was hard and uncompromising, the urging, and there we stood, a row of three little girls, Florence pleasures simple, and the burdens heavy. five years old, but soon to be six, and Eleanor four and myself But as I step back for a full view from my vantage point of three. His mother called, "Willard, bring your little wagon for more than half a century, I feel very, very fortunate. To be a the girls to play with." I remember Willard as a thin boy, and child of the pioneers, to grow up on the prairie-what a he must have been about eight years old, an only child. He magnificent adventure. My childhood was remarkably free came with the wagon, looking us over with a mixture of and happy. Those were not times of multiple choice and curiosity, fear and aloofness, handing over the handle in confusion. The pathway was there, rough and hilly, and there silence. Then he retreated. was no other way to go. We had a wonderful time. We hauled hay, each other, a pile I am well pleased with my alloted space in time. What of burlap bags we saw lying in a heap by a granary, rocks, generation except ours has been as full of excitement, change twigs and dirt. Occasionally Willard would appear for a look, and growth? In our span of recollection, we, the nation and the but he made no comment and didn't join in our games. Soon he world suddenly grew up. would disappear around a corner. I have no idea what he did to I. occupy himself all day. Mrs. Edmunds, I remember, served a nice lunch with May 2,1918 was the day I became a person in my own right. sprightly conversation to keep us entertained. Then we had That day I recall vividly, and it was the first time my memory our afternoon nap, and it was back to work hauling things in brings back anything more definite than walking under the old the wagon again. round oak dining room table, with an inch or two to spare over Papa came for us in the late afternoon. The sun's warmth my head. Let me tell you what happened. and brightness sent rays slanting over us, and long shadows Mama seemed preoccupied that morning as she scrubbed ran along beside us on the grassy roadway. our faces and gave each of us a quick hair-do, if two or three As we turned into the yard, Papa said: "Somebody new is swipes with a brush can be called that. Papa apparently had here. Run in and see him" We scrambled down and ran into something on his mind too, for in minutes after breakfast the the sod house that was home. Mama was in bed, a small team and buggy was there outside the door. bundle beside her. She turned down the cover. "See what the My parents went through the process of placing us all into stork left at our house. A little brother." the buggy seats, sort of like putting articles on a high shelf. We were all eyes. It was a dramatic moment, but our Then off we went out through the gate and down the road, with surprise was shortlived, and we accepted the completion of the drum rhythm of the horses' feet making a pleasant ac­ our family quite readily. Mama smilingly refused to let us companiment to the music of the buggy's assortment of hold him-"not for a while," she told us, and Papa went about creaks and turning wheels. the business of preparing supper. But we had been through a We passed the "little post" where the pasture fence dipped tiring day, filled with excitement and new experiences, and I a little, the goal of our races down the road to meet Papa at his believe we were all asleep before he had set the table.

93 Early Farming Pictures

The Wm. Eikamp steam outfit is shown shock threshing at Eikamp steam threshing rig in 1922. Threshing 80 bu. per the Otto Kibbel farm. acre oats.

Horse farming. Ed Kjos, Matt Kjos, Ernest Baumgard. John Huber breaking on theO. L. Kibbel farm in 1915.

1

. *»j itS •

:',•'"•"•• »,*"^'i*,'S..* "

Wakefield engines. Near wheel, John Wakefield; first tractor, Win. Hendricks.

94 The Giant of the Prairies. The steam engine made its '•--^S^mi^mmwm^s^k advent into Hettinger County early in homestead days. The speed with which it turned over the sod gave it a Threshing romantic aspect in a picturesque sort of way. The Oscar Johnson seeding outfit is shown at the top. Picture courtesy Frank Kelsch.

Big Four - 30-60 Gasoline. Constructed by Emerson Bran tingham Co. $3,500.00 new. Belonged to Otto Barth. Louis Breaking sod with a Rumley Oil-pull owned by Louis Vasey Vasey hired to operate it. Taken on Otto Barth's land in 1913 for Prosper Dunham. Louis Vasey operating the outfit; on the place where Jake Roemmich now lives. 6 plows and 10 Clarence Vasey controlling the levers and Ingvald Loe. or 12' drill. Louis Vasey driving; Ed Kjos at the plow levers; Fred Hintz near the car.

Rumley Oil-pull at the Art Vasey place. Joe Johnson on the tractor. Binding grain on the C. E. Bern homestead.

95 Memories of the homesteading era in North Dakota usually recall the period from an adult's point of view. Many of those who came to live on the prairies, however, saw things from an entirely different perspective, and here Enid Bern pays homage to the unique experience that homesteading offered to a child. For her and for many others, these were the "enchanted years on the prairies."

96 The Enchanted Years On The Prairies

By Enid Bern

When Alice of Alice in Wonderland went down the rabbit hole, she could not have been more entranced when she found herself in a strange land than we were when we boarded the train at St. Paul and rode through the tunnel of darkness to awake the next morning in the enchanted land of North Dakota. From that moment on, the Bern family was to live a new and varied life.

Homestead Fever was a strange malady that caused people, partial payment on the house, so for the remainder of the fall even those living well-established and comfortable lives we took a buggy ri-1e after school or in the evening every day among friends and relatives in pleasant surroundings, to pull to enjoy the sights in the beautiful countryside that we were up stakes and strike out for the West to battle the elements soon to leave. there on the raw prairies. The thoughts of discomforts and In the early spring, the men bought the horses, machinery, deprivation did not deter them. Nor did the lurid tains they had and equipment they would need for farming. The house-hold heard hold them back. goods we would need were packed for shipping, and the rest of The Ellertson brothers, friends of the Bern family in River the furniture was stored. We expected to come back in five Falls, Wisconsin, had talked my father into going out to look years at the latest, and our parents decided they would over the prospects of taking up a homestead. Perhaps he commute in fourteen months if they did not like it here. With would not have gone had he not been told by his doctor to everything loaded in the cars, Efford, five years old, and I, change his occupation. He was beginning to develop lead eight, were taken out of school during the first part of April poisoning as a result of his work as painter and paperhanger- because my mother and we three children (Ivan was three "interior decorating" it was called in those days. Our mother years old) were to live a few days consecutively with each of disapproved of the idea-she had all that she could wish for our aunts and uncles. right there in River Falls, but our father's mind was made up. The day finally came when we were to take leave of all that The men liked what they saw and came home full of en­ meant so much to us, but it was exciting to get started on that thusiasm about the land they had filed on and the country in all-important journey. When we awoke the next morning on general. We children, of course, were excited and drank in the train and our mother told us we were in North Dakota, we every word we heard. Taking for granted that the large box of were thrilled and looked out the windows expecting to see fruit our father brought home from St. Paul came from North some of the wild animals. There were, of course, no animals, Dakota, we thought that it must be a wonderful place. When he but the country surely did look different. The day on the train took a piece of lignite coal from his pocket to show us how was tiring, but time wore on. Then later in the afternoon when clean it was compared with the coal we knew, we children took the train made one of its stops, I saw flower beds on the station it all over the neighborhood to show playmates how one could lawn that spelled out the name MANDAN. I had heard that rub it on white tablecloths and it wouldn't even show. What name many times, and I hoped we would soon be getting off; interested us most was to learn about the animals—the but it was dark before we got to Richardton. jackrabbits, gophers, prairie dogs, coyotes, wolves, and antelope. And we were thrilled to know there was a creek on It was May 1,1907, when we stepped off the train. Organized our land near the spot where our house was to be built. We just Hettinger County was fourteen days old. It was good to see our wished we could go at once! father and to go to the hotel to eat and then to sleep. I was famished, and there on the table was a huge bowl of large Our house in River Falls was soon sold, and we moved into a oranges. Yes, there was some fruit just as we had expected, rented one for the winter. Papa took a horse and buggy as remembering that which Papa had brought home when he returned the first time. How nice it was going to be to live in North Dakota. Only apples grew on our trees in Wisconsin! A young American family sits for that American institution, Little did we know we wouldn't see any more fresh fruit until the formal family portrait. Taken in River Falls, Wisconsin, Christmas. Stores in Mott stocked only dried fruit, at least before the transition to the North Dakota prairies, the pic­ when we happened to be in town. ture of the Bern family is perhaps typical of both an era and The next morning our party was ready for its trek across a lifestyle. Left to right are Efford, Charles A., Enid, Mrs. country as far as the Ellertson homesteads. There were Charles A. (Olive I.) and Ivan Bern. several livery rigs for the women and children, and the men —Bern Collection, State Historical Society of North Dakota. hauled loads with their teams at a slower pace. We stopped at 97 Prairie pioneers for the most part came from well- Wisconsin, home (above) and the community's school established communities that offered all the amenities of (below) in order to immigrate to the unsettled priaires of life, among them substantial homes and schools. The Bern Hettinger County, North Dakota. family, for example, left behind their River Falls, —Bern Collection. State Historical Society of North Dakota.

5

98 the Bernt Olson place at noon and then journeyed on. The high lost as long as there was a bit of unturned sod. The many point of the trip was the moment we stopped at the top of the birds, especially the meadow larks and the horned larks, were hill on the north side of the present highway two miles west of as joyous as we. Suddenly we saw a gopher, something new to Burt. The driver announced that our destination was at the us. Naturally, we gave chase, only to have it duck into a hole. foot of the hill. It was then that we children-first experienced Forgetting the purpose of the water we carried, we poured it North Dakota prairie under our feet; we got off the rig and ran down after him, turned the pail over the hole and drummed on down the hill, picking up such momentum as to tumble head it. It hadn't taken the prairies long to turn us into little first, one after another. savages! The Ellertson brothers had twin houses close together on adjacent quarters. The men slept that first night in one house and the women and children in the other. The Ed Ellertsons had a grown daughter with them; the Matt Ellertsons had two grown daughters and a boy; the Conradsons, brother of Mrs. Matt Ellertson, had a grown daughter and son and a girl about my age. Two other young men and our family of five com­ pleted the party. Finally, the next day our family set off alone for our homestead five miles to the southeast, our parents and Ivan on the seat of the wagon and Efford and I on the small load of lumber. My father's best horse had died in the freight car on the way out, necessitating the purchase of a new one. It trailed behind, tied to the wagon. I was puzzled at the rattling sound I frequently heard in the grass and wondered if it came from rattlesnakes, but I said nothing. My opinion now is that the sound came from the dried seed pods of the locoweed when the trailing horse brushed against them with his feet. Papa was anxious to see our reaction when he took us into the house. We all stood taking in the appearance of our new home, too absorbed to say anthing. It was three year old Ivan who broke the silence when he said, "Pretty nice home!" In gratitude for those words, Papa tossed his youngest son over his head. The house consisted of two rooms, each 12' x 14', with a half story over one room. The walls were of drop siding nailed to studdings over Klondike building paper. The inside' walls were finished with the same kind of paper fastened to the 2 by 4's similar to the way wall board is now used. We had to be careful not to punch holes in the walls because the paper was not as heavy as the wall board of today. It wasn't very long before our mother had the house looking very attractive and An accomplished dressmaker and seamstress, Mrs. Charles "homey." E. Bern made most of the family's clothes. Pictured here in After arriving at our new home, Efford and I were sent on an outfit that she created, Mrs. Bern had little difficulty our first errand. Papa sent us down to the creek for a pail of adjusting the children's wardrobes to meet the demands of drinking water. We hunted for a good place to get some, but their new prairie environment. weren't very satisfied with what we saw. After several at­ tempts, we came up with some that was quite clear, but was —Bern Collection. State Historical Society of North Dakota. full of wigglers. Papa had sent us to get water and that is what we found, so that is what we brought. We weren't surprised Not a moment of that first day was wasted. We had learned when Papa laughed and were glad to follow him down to see in Wisconsin that we were going to a "new" country. To me, it how he would solve the problem. He dipped below the surface meant that the land had been newly created. Now conditions and came up with clear water. This was our first lesson in confirmed this! It even smelled fresh and new, there were pioneering. places on the creek banks where grass had not yet started to grow, water did not taste right, there were no trees yet, It wasth* fourth day after leaving Wisconsin that life in animals were still wild, and people were just moving in. Now North DaKOta began, or so it seemed. When we children came that we had so much to investigate, the Swiss Family down stairs that first morning, our mother was busy about the Robinson had nothing on us! house; Papa was breaking sod at the far end of the farm, about a half mile away. After we had eaten breakfast, we were From that day forward, the out-of-doors held much for us. given the pleasure of taking lunch out to him. Ivan very We were great would-be explorers, ever alert for new emphatically declared ne was going to stay home to help discoveries. The sunlit hours were never long enough for us. Mamma with the housework. Of course, there was that time of day generally, when our mother would summon us to come in to study our Norwegian It was a bright, calm day, typical of North Dakota weather catachism and Bible history. I was also called in frequently to in May. We felt the enchantment of the prairie that we never do some needlework because my mother thought I should learn to "sew a fine seam." She had been a professional I was not content just to ride horses; calves also came into dressmaker, but I am afraid I didn't give her very encourag­ the picture. A time comes to mind when I tried to get the boys ing hopes. to help me ride one. Since they were not interested, I caught a The wardrobes we hadbroughtwith us were not particularity young steer, took him into the barn and climbed on. Around in keeping with our surroundings. The boys' clothing, which and around we went, more violently than I had anticipated. I consisted of Buster Brown suits, sailor suits, white linen suits, managed to keep on for a while by touching a wall or some Tarn O'Shanters and Roosevelt caps, all looked pretty silly on object to regain my balance but a catastrophe happened when the prairies; similarly, my frilly dresses and the bonnet faced I reached for a support beam and missed. Down I went under with silk chiffon and trimmed with forget-me-nots weren't the calf and he over me. The barn was far from being clean, very appropriate either. Mother got busy with her sewing and I was a sight to behold. Now I was in a predicament—how machine to make sunbonnets for all three of us. She couldn't could I explain this to my mother? Finally I hit upon the idea bear to think of us playing outside in all that open sunshine of going down to the dam to wash my dress. The dress would without protection. The boys were soon outfitted with overalls still be wet, but my appearance wouldn't be quite so startling. and Mother Hubbard aprons were made for me. Thus we were And that is what I did. It saved an embarrassing situation. properly dressed for prairie life. My other escapades with a horse or pony were no more But, in spite of being captivated by this new life, there were unusual than those common to most children. But although my times when I, even at the tender age of eight, experienced childhood was closely associated with riding, there came a nostalgia for our old home in Wisconsin. There returned time later when another incident put an end to any further haunting memories of the scent of lilacs, peonies, sweet peas, desires even to mount a horse. I had been sent to the far end of and roses, each in its own season, hanging heavy on the humid the mile-long pasture to bring home the horses. I rounded air of summer, the soft, velvety lawns, the sidewalks, our them up, enjoying the ride as much as ever. However, as we playmates and cousins. However, those moments were were homeward bound, the dog spooked the horses. The pony I fleeting and short-lived. The prairies had no competition. was riding had occasionally been ridden in picnic and There was, however, one evil creature in our little celebration races; consequently, when the horses started paradise—the mosquito. We were forced inside by hordes running wildly, Fly accepted the challenge and soon passed when they were at their worst. It was then as well as on rainy them. On she ran, completely out of control for a full half mile days, that we'd turn to the indoor toys with which we were well over creek banks and rough land, I stayed with her, but was so supplied. The Flannigan children however, whose home was badly shaken that I was cured from riding once and for all. southeast of Burt near the Cannonball River, not only had as many toys as we, but had some others that we admired From the day of our arrival when we dipped up a pail of greatly. For example, they had a phonograph of their own, a wigglers, water continued to be a problem. In the first place, magic lantern, an air gun, a tricycle, roller and ice skates, but alkali water was very distasteful and annoying. Even the soup best of all, a pony. Needless to say, we were always happy that we children liked so well in Wisconsin tasted like when our family visited at their home. medicine when made from this new water. The creeks were not polluted to the extent that they are at present, but we could A tragedy was later to occur on a May day in 1911 at the not continue to use the water from them for any length of time. Flannigan home. Horace, age 10, fell from his pony as it Our father went to work with pick and shovel to dig a well and climbed a bank after fording the Cannonball. He struck his succeeded in striking a vein of water. Intermittently, head on a rock and was carried downstream; his body was however, the well ran dry. It was then that we began hauling discovered after he had been missed at home. Some time water from a neighbor's well that was less than a half mile later, we purchased the pony he had ridden, but happy as we away. A stoneboat+ carrying a hardwood rain barrel was were to have Tony, we could not, for some time, disassociate used for transporting the water to be used for drinking and him from the event that resulted in the death of a playmate. general household purposes. Our prairies were not without some tragedies. In the wintertime, the barrel was set just inside the kitchen Horses and ponies were pretty much a part of a pioneer door and kept filled with clean snow when it was available. child's life and his knowledge of them extended beyond those Water in the barrel soon melted the new supply of snow as it of his own farm home. Dan Patch, the great pacer, had won was brought in. With the required attention, the water level the world's championship harness race in 1905. Many a remained quite constant. homesteader's home had a picture of him on the wall, and almost every child could tell you that he ran, "a mile in a After several attempts at digging wells, we finally acquired minute and fifty-five seconds and a fourth." This record was a fairly satisfactory one, and although it was some little not broken until 1938 when Billy Direct ran the distance in distance from the house, the well with the old oaken bucket, 1:55. ironbound and moss covered, supplied us with good cold water. It was still alkali water, but by this time we had grown My brothers enjoyed riding, but they took it as a matter of accustomed to its taste. course; as for myself, ponies and riding were little short of an obsession. From the first week in our new home when Clifford Ellertson rode his new pony over to show us, it seemed I could + A stoneboat was a contraption consisting of two stout posts think or talk of nothing else besides owning a pony of our own. spaced parallel to each other which served as skids, or run­ Wishes were not easily fulfilled those days, but that didn't stop ners. Boards were nailed across the top to form a platform, us from dreaming. Horse trading was common at that time and a strong chain was fastened in front of the runners in such and we hadn't been here long before we picked up some of the a manner that a horse could be hitfched to the crude sled. Such strategy employed. In our imaginations, we made trips to the an outfit proved invaluable for numerous jobs around the farm Indian reservation beyond the horizon to the southeast to and in a pinch could be used as a means of transportation. bargain for ponies. Ours was mostly put to use for hauling water. 100 Horses occupied a large part of a homestead child's life. Ivan Bern raised and trained the orphaned colt that he so proudly holds for this picture. —Bern Collection. State Historical Society of North Dakota.

Farm boys learned quickly about the tools of the farmer's trade. Efford Bern turns the grindstone, a simple device that was a necessity on prairie homesteads, while his father holds the cutting Made for the hay mower.

—Bern Collection. State Historical Society of North Dakota.

101 There were no schools when we first came to Hettinger throughout the grades, although there was cut and dried book County. Some were opened in the county the following fall, but work in physiology, geography, history, and language. A great there is no way to determine how many because no permanent deal of instruction was given in arithemetic, and I developed a school records were kept until the term of 1908-1909. I have no great respect for the school in that area. memory of whether ours opened in the fall of 1907, or in 1908. We had a fine group of pupils: The Hopwoods, Claggetts, Littles, Kleinjans, Yates, Wehsners, Harveys, and Heiers Our schoolhouse was built on the southeast corner of section (former teacher), besides ourselves. There was practically 16, and we lived on the west side of the southwest quarter of never a discipline problem or trouble of any kind, and the section 20, a distance of two and three quarters miles following children were always friendly and congenial. The games the section line. We shortened the distance somewhat by played at noon and recess were different from those we had cutting across one quarter. To my brother and me, the played before, but we enjoyed them. "Anti Over" was a distance seemed quite long, especially in the wintertime. We favorite; "Wolf" was another in which the porch was the goal usually walked because our father was busy in good weather, and anyone venturing off base was tagged, if possible, and and when there was deep and drifted snow the horses could not became another "wolf". Baseball was the most popular when get through with a buggy. Frequently, our father came weather permitted it. When it was stormy outside, the teacher walking to meet us. This was reassuring to all of us, including must have been drive to distraction. Pupils shot erasers back our mother who worried about our being out on the open and forth on the chalk trays, and games played at the black­ prairies on darkening, stormy winter afternoons. boards, filled the room with dust. Sometimes the seats were shoved outside, and "tenpins" was played, using pencil boxes It was a tedious walk during the coldest part of the winter, set on end to serve as pins. but I can never remember being really cold except for my Much as I liked these games, I missed the ones we had face, hands, and feet. These we froze frequently, and it was an played in River Falls: jacks, hopscotch, rope jumping, to accepted fact that we were to be plagued by chilblains all name a few. The boys walked on stilts, played marbles and winter long. I recall one time when my brothers, Efford and football, flew kites, had sling-shots and rolled hoops. Children Ivan, froze their faces quite badly. Efford's ear swelled on the prairies had no interest in those types of play. One form almost unbelievably, measuring about four or five inches of amusement that did catch on for awhile in the country vertically. My mother made a hood for him to wear at night school consisted of rolling a small wheel mounted on an axel while he slept in order to keep him from breaking it off. He attached to a stick, but this was soon dropped and forgotten. didn't go to school the next day, and I was nauseated and unable to keep my mind on my lessons the whole time from I should not fail to mention another popular game, one much worrying about him. rougher than rolling a wheel. "Shinny" was a game in which each youngster was armed with a heavy stick or club. Players I remember vividly when our father took Efford and me to stood, spaced slightly apart, in a circle; in front of each was a school on the first day. It was interesting to become hollowed out spot in the ground. No one could steal his spot as acquainted with all my new schoolmates and the teacher. Miss long as the end of his club remained in it. A hollowed out spot Corta Hiers, the teacher, was replaced soon after by Mr. was also made in the center of the circle. The object of the one Mortion Little, because her age was below the required 18 who was "it" was to try to knock a tin can into the hollowed out years. spot in the center while the others tried to keep it out. "It" could steal a spot; then the loser became "it". The game When I was asked what grade I was in, I replied that I was in became lively when people tried stealing spots. Swinging the third, because I had been taken out of our River Falls clubs and a flying can knocked full of sharp corners during the school before the term was over to come out here. Saying that progress of the game frequently landed on shins or in faces. It there were no third grade books, the teacher gave me second was a dangerous game, to say the least, but that did not deter grade text books to tide me over until books could be ordered. us from playing. Instead of applying myself to these uninteresting books, I spent my time just listening to the fourth grade recitations and We were fortunate in having come to North Dakota in the instruction. I was astonished to learn that the seventh and company of three other families. It was difficult enough to eighth grades were studying diacritical markings in their adjust to the new surroundings and life style without being orthography classes; I had already learned them quite plagued by the loneliness that must have been the lot of those completely in River Falls. who came by themselves. The Ellertsons lived five miles We had been fortunate in River Falls to attend an excellent, away, but not many days at a time passed without an ex­ up-to-date school. Teachers were excellent and pupils change of visits that frequently lasted all day. Having been received well-rounded cultural instruction. The imaginations good friends in Wisconsin, attending the same church and of the children were stimulated and their outlooks greatly being of the same nationality, our families had much in broadened due to the various approaches to the subject matter common. The sons and daughters of the two Ellertson taken by the teachers. We learned to read by the phonics households were mostly adults, but we Bern children always method, which was quite new at that time. I lost considerable looked forward to visits with these fine people. It was good not respect for the country school because the children learned to to be alone in this new country. read by the ABC method and from charts. I felt sorry for the beginners who had nothing to do when not receiving dull in­ Neighborhoods differed in character during homestead days. struction. They spent their time looking at a primer until they Some consisted of people of such contrasting personalities and were sent out early to play. Remembering my own exciting temperaments that the community was constantly a scene of first and second grades, I yearned to be in the teacher's place contention, bickering and rivalry. In direct contrast, a group to teach those beginners. of people from a foreign country had enough in common to form a congenial community. Similarly, a group of The three R's were pretty much the type of subject matter acquaintances from an eastern area who settled together were 102 quick to establish a harmonious neighborhood. Our com­ meet us. During the course of the conversation, he informed us munity differed in that it consisted of people of many of their plans to "Skiddoo out of here". The time had come nationalities or national backgrounds and of many walks of when he could make good his intentions. life. Occupying a quarter section of land in our section were an At one time while Dick still lived on his claim, his sister Irishman, a Holland-born father and his son, and a native born came to visit him for a few weeks. She was a very lovely and Swede (our father). Other neighbors of ours represented refined young lady who would sometimes walk the two miles several other countries of Western Europe, as well as to spend an afternoon with us and would bring along her Americans of mixed nationalities. These neighbors had skills sewing. She was making her entire trousseau by hand - in some trade, occupation, or profession; our neighborhood beautiful material sewn with fine, dainty stitches. A short had former carpenters, masons, painters and blacksmiths, time later, she became the bride of a prominent businessman among others, and threshing time, in particular, called for in Mott. exchange of work amongst all farmers. Two miles to the south of us, at the foot of the Dog Town Minor disagreements did occasionally arise in our neigh­ Buttes, lives one of the very early sheep ranchers and his wife. borhood, usually over school matters such as the location of a Fourteen days previous to our coming to our new home, Henny school building. Parents wanted it located as close as possible Barry had been appointed by Governor John Burke to be the to their homes for the benefit of their own children, and those first sheriff of our newly formed Hettinger County. Mr. Barry without children wanted it nearby to enhance the value of their rode past our home frequently and often stopped to chat. He land. These differences were resolved without undue dif­ cut a dashing figure on his splendid horse and dressed in ficulty. resplendent western attire. He was as# glamourous to us Numbered among the homesteaders were unmarried young children as western law enforcement men of present TV fame. men and women who came to file on homesteads. I can readily At times when he happened upon us youngsters when we were recall at least thirty bachelors, but only about five' young out herding cows, he wbuld pull up his horse to greet us. We women who had claims in our area. Many of these single were thrilled beyond words as we took note of the spurs, people were to marry later because'there were many grown chaps, wide leather riding cuffs, neck-piece and broad- young folks who had accompanied their parents to the family brimmed hat. We stood in awe and admiration as we gazed at homestead. In the meantime, they formed an interesting his spirited horse chomping at the bit and prancing nervously. segment of the propulation. Their presence added zest to Sheriff Barry had a wonderful bass singing voice. At wed­ community life, perhaps because of their youthfulness and ding dances, parties, and celebrations he was enthusiastically varied personalities. called upon to sing. Encore upon encore always followed. Then, too, he was an expert baseball player. And who was One of these bachelors, a Southerner, was a fastidious young most suited to lead colorful parades? It always was Henry man known for his neat housekeeping, abilities as a cook, and Barry, our early neighbor. expertise in gardening. He did not marry while living here, but once remarked, "What I'll have won't have me, and There had been a prairie fire near our homestead before our what'll have me I won't have." Then there was the handsome arrival in the spring; consequently, the buttes two miles away young Irishman who lived nearby. He stood in good favor with loomed black and mysterious against the southern sky. They all the girls who were much attracted to him. Written on the had captured our attention because they contrasted with the blue Klondike paper covering of his shanty we're the words: rest of the landscape, especially that of our homestead which was flat and level. Furthermore, the buttes seemed to be the This house is much too large for one headquarters of packs of coyotes that gave nightly, spine- But just the size for two; tingling concerts. The name "Dog Town Buttes" gave the Suppose you fix it up real cute indication that prairie dogs lived there, too. And I'll keep house for you. Our father imbued the buttes with a kind of fascination and Another one of the men remained a bachelor for several glamour through his storytelling. After work, he frequently years. Eventually, a middle-aged woman, a stranger to the took three-year-old Ivan on his lap to visit with him. This often community, became his wife. It was bandied about that Jake led to a story which was woven around a fictitious little boy had sent to Sears & Roebuck for this mail-order bride because living "up in the buttes." Efford and I became absorbed in the she had come from Chicago. When the Model T Ford appeared episodes, and to Ivan, the little boy became a legend. upon the scene, the couple was frequently seen riding about Whenever he sensed that the time was favorable, he took our with the top down, he in the driver's seat and she in the back. father's hand, led him to the rocker and said, "Let's talk about This idiosyncrasy later resulted in her life being saved when my little boy up in the buttes." his was lost. Had she been sitting with him, she also would have been killed when he drove into a moving train. We took a trip to the buttes the Thanksgiving afternoon of our first year in North Dakota. That day had perhaps been the Of the thirty or so bachelors, the one we knew best was Dick most lonely one since our arrival. The Ellertsons had just left Danielson, a young Swede. He was a frequent and welcome for Wisconsin where the women were to spend the winter, and visitor at our home and a good neighbor who could always be we felt more alone than usual. Our mother, especially, thought called upon when an extra man was needed for some task. We of our yearly Thanksgiving gatherings with her three sisters, children were always amused by his manner oT expressing two brothers and their families. This year we would not be himself about taking leave to go some place. He was always numbered among them. going to "SKIDDOO". He was not happy with the role he was The day was an example of Indian summer at its very best, playing as a North Dakota homesteader and wasn't slow in and with nothing better to do, we drove to the buttes. We giving vent to the frustrations that seemed to be aggravated children enjoyed the climb to the top as we scrambled ahead by the hardships of pioneer life. While still living on his claim, of our parents. From the topmost point, we gazed at the this bachelor married a pretty girl and brought her down to specatacular view of endless prairie with the only signs of 103 habitation a few shanties scattered here and there. I doubt wagon early in the day, carrying with him some lunch and that our mother's loneliness was lessened by the sight of our several sticks of dynamite, caps, and fuses. He headed in the little buildings in that grassy sea of prairie. general direction of the closest coal mine, about eleven or twelve miles away. There, he would blast out the coal and load The thought did not occur to us then I am sure, as to what it himself, for the mine was unattended. changes would soon take place as a result of progress. Little did we realize that three years later, seven towns could be During the day, our widower uncle, who lived in Wisconsin, sighted from that spot. We were too absorbed in the surprised us by putting in an appearance. He had been awesomeness of the view with no barriers visible but the fence thinking about his youngest sister and family living out in the surrounding the area of buttes on which we were standing. wilds of North Dakota and came to see what conditions were really like. This surprise visit shortened the day for our Children could sense, to a certain extent, the difficulty mother, but when it became dusk and then dark she grew pioneer parents encountered, but I am sure we did not realize increasingly worried. She would have been uneasy under any how distraught our mother was and the agony of mind that she circumstances, but the knowledge that our father had must have experienced one fall day of our first year in North dynamite with him gave her real cause for concern. That was Dakota. the situation when we children went to bed. When we We watched our father as he set out across the prairie in a awakened at sunrise our uncle had started out on foot to look for our father. He was still in sight when we spied a wagon coming in the distance. It was our father. It had been a long drive in the lumber wagon over un- traveled prairie, and it had taken a long time to blast and load the coal. Darkness overtook him on the way home and the clouds obscured the stars that otherwise would have given him his beiarings. When he saw a light in the distance, he drove towards it and stopped to inquire as to his whereabouts. It was the Fred Knaus home. He then drove for miles before he saw another light, but when he stopped he was astounded to find himself again at the Knaus home. Realizing the futility of setting out again with the horses as worn out as they were, he accepted the hospitality of the Knauses and stayed over until it began to grow light. Personal experiences were frequently related when friends gathered socially, particularly by the men folks. This might be during an all day visit with friends or neighbors, Sunday af­ ternoon visits, or chance meetings on mainstreet benches or loafing places. Perhaps a person on some errand at the home of his neighbor in looking for an excuse to linger awhile baited his neighbor for a story. This was still during the period when story-telling was an art. A chance remark might trigger a memory that gave rise to a story, and the teller was given the floor. Everyone sat at relaxed attention until the story had been completed. With no interruptions forthcoming, the story teller was free to proceed in a leisurely fashion. Bringing in all the details and using considerable finesse in building up suspense, he entertained the listeners to the end. The story generally suggested another to someone else and the story telling continued. Children, who in those days were supposed to be seen and not heard, sat quietly causing no disturbance, and vanished to the out-of-doors to amuse themselves when they grew tired of listening. Mott staged a 4th of July celebration in 1910. For the first time in two months, we dressed in our very best to attend the event. It had been perhaps close to five months since we had seen our father dressed in his best suit, white stiff collar and black Derby hat. It seemed strange to be wearing clothes like that again, although we dressed in good, but less elegant, Corta Heirs served as the first schoolteacher in the country clothing when we visited friends and neighbors. school that the Bern children attended. She was, however, not old enough to meet the minimum state requirements for We children were not sure just what the celebration would teachers and was therefore replaced several months into the be like. Our parents had not discussed it to any extent; school term. therefore, there was no enthusiasm on our part. We went because Our parents were going. Upon our arrival, the horse —Bern Collection. State Historical Society of North Dakota. was unhitched from the buggy, was tied and given some oats

104 brought from home. We spent the rest of the day walking even a catalogue with its pages of people that were to become about, listening to our parents visit with other people. Ice my make-believe acquaintances. Each would be given a name cream bought at a tent and served in a saucer was not very which was put in writing beside the individual for in- tasty and was mostly all melted. Lemonade made with alkali dentifi cation. water was sour and tepid. The weather was hot, especially out The baby rabbits never ceased to enthrall me. I was wholly under the open sky, dust was blowing about and the day was responsive to the charms of the springtime prairies and the tiresome. But this was all from my own personal point of view. little rabbits were a part of its many mysteries and surprises. No doubt, it was a great day for many. As the years The older rabbits were too commonplace to demand much passed, we began to look forward to 4th of July celebrations attention from me, but the dog found them intriguing and and Old Settlers' picnics with more and more anticipation. could never resist giving chase, although he seldom caught Furthermore, preparations for the affairs became in­ one. creasingly elaborate and were truly festive occasions that broke the monotony of the summer and added a little zest to One such chase resulted in a raiher unusual turn of events. routine living. When I noticed that the dog had flushed out a jackrabbit nearly a quarter of a mile from me, I began yelling, Indian At times in the early years, I was given the task of watching fashion, to divert the rabbit's attention. To my surprise, he the" cattle to keep them from straying or getting on other immediately headed towards me. I kept up my noisemaking people's property. The section to the west and the one to the and grew increasingly excited as he unswervingly came south of our homestead was unbroken prairie (railroad land) nearer and nearer with tremendous speed. Then, to my where the cows could graze at will. It wasn't necessary that I astonishment, he leaped into my outstretched arms, striking stay with them constantly, but it often involved less walking if my chest so violently that I was almost knocked over.

The school that served the rural community west of Bentley, North Dakota, and which the Berns attended.

—Bern Collection. State Historical Society of otSfifi North Dakota. ••I • • ttja,,* i •!» n i .ii II mi- *

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I did. Besides, I loved the prairies as they were without fences, The rabbit was too excited to stay in my arms. He was off telegraph or telephone lines, graded roads or fields, and I and away, leaving me standing there somewhat dazed and enjoyed being out on them. The broad expanse of grassy gazing at some of the fur in my hand. plains, bounded only by buttes and hills in the distance, had a An incident happened while herding, on a beautiful, early special charm that gradually vanished as the sod was turned summer day. I was sitting idly on the ground near the cattle, by the plow. It seemed a desecration to change the landscape enjoying the warmth of the day and watching the numerous and to break the spell of magic it seemed to hold. gophers playing around and about. One spied me, sat up and Mine was not a lonely task. The singing of the meadow larks looked, came a little closer, then looked me over with more and the whistling of the gophers set the mood for the day, and daring. Finally, his curiosity brought him up to me as I sat countless discoveries in nature filled me with untold perfectly still. He became bold enough to edge up close, and pleasure—the birds' nests, each with its own particular kind nibbled at the rubbers I wore. As he moved away, he still kept of eggs, the various flowers, pretty stones, turtle eggs found in an eye on me. When he was fully ten or twelve feet away, I idly the walls of a cutbank, and even the snakes that startled me picked up a small stone and flipped it at him, hitting him so. I learned to know where all these things could be found, squarely on the head. He dropped over dead! Shocked at what and every foot of these nearby prairies became familiar to I had done, I ran over and picked him up, crying remorsefully me. I have memories of sitting on a stone, gazing out over a and sorrowfully at having killed the innocent little gopher who view that was so beautiful as to be painful, trying to fix the had been so cunning and friendly! Upon reaching home at scene in my mind so firmly that I would never forget it. suppertime I told the family what i had done. My father laughed at me unbelievingly for telling such a likely tale. I ' Sometimes I took a book or some magazine along to reed or could not persuade him to believe me. Thinking back now, 1 105 realize it was only his was of bringing me out of the mood I somewhat later, but never recovered and died soon after. He was in. had given his all in helping me and exerted every effort to There are many memories of my days out with the cattle. come to lie at my feet when he thought he was dying. Coyotes entered into some of them, as they did the time I was Illness without access to a doctor was one of the hazards of mounted on my pony's back at some distance from home. We pioneering. Ivan, at the age of three, was stricken and and the dog were surrounded by a pack of yelping, snarling bedridden throughout the summer months of 1907. A doctor coyotes. Strangely, I was not afraid for myself, but I was that my father contacted called it "summer complaint," and fearful for the dog. They had focused their attention on him gave information as to his care. Ivan recovered nicely, but and were giving him a bad time. The encounter amounted to had to learn to walk again. no more than an exciting experience. During the years 1907 and 1908, we were slowly becoming established. The sod was being gradually turned by the plow and put into crops that yielded quite well. By degrees, we acquired a start in livestock, cattle, hogs, horses and chickens. Then, too, we had good gardens each year which were much more elaborate than the average gardens of today as far as variety is concerned. Huckleberries and won- derberries made delicious pies and jam. Garden lemon, ground cherries, and citron were used in making preserves. Parsnips were planted for spring use. Rutabaga and turnips had their place in the garden along with the usual vegetables. Our mother had caught cold while visiting at the homes of relatives for several weeks prior to coming to North Dakota, and she developed a persistent cough. In midsummer, she made daily trips to the garden. Using a knife, she peeled and

Efford (left) and Ivan Bern, outfitted for a day of winning the west, stand in front of the barn near Bentley, before beginning their fun. —Bern Collection, State Historical Society of North Dakota.

I have recollections of trying to find the cattle during an oncoming storm. This time it was dark and I had to depend entirely on the lightning to guide my way. One flash revealed a coyote running not far from me, apparently running from the storm, but it added to my terror. The cattle were eventually found after my father came, and we reached home before the deluge. One incident some years later also involved a storm. I had not followed the cattle, and the rapidly approaching storm brought me face to face with the realization that I had to act with great haste to bring the cattle home. I had our pure white collie along to assist me, but the cattle reacted to the furious oncoming storm and could not be turned towards home. Laddie worked desperately to head them in the proper direction without success, but did not give up. Fianlly, I saw him hunch over convulsively; then immediately, he came ('. E. Bern in his Swedish Army uniform. The picture was running to me and fell prostrate at my feet, completely photographed in Sweden. exhausted and panting laboriously. Ivan came soon after, picked up the dog, as we drove home. Laddie revived 106 t •"

mm-%iii; LAND DEALERS.

Charles E. Bern, worked occasionally for William H. Brown, a land speculator who sold lands to settlers in southwestern North Dakota. This sign, which decorated Brown's offices in Mott, was one of his products.

—Bern Collection. State Historical Society of North Dakota. ate carrots and turnips that she seemed to crave. Before long better that way than by storing them in the cellar. The cache the cough disappeared completely. could be robbed of some of its supply late in the fall and re­ I recall the planting of potatoes that first spring. They were covered. From then on, though, it had to be left undistrubed planted fn the furrow made by turning the sod with the plow. until spring. They were then covered by plowing another furrow. After the Mr. William H. Brown, who learned that our father had been patch had been planted in this manner, it was left untouched a painter, succeeded in getting him to paint for the land all summer. Cultivation was not necessary since no weeds company in Mott. Signs, especially, were in demand. Mr. grew on the newly turned sod. In late summer, one could turn Brown said facetiously one time,"Do you believe in signs, back the sod under which the potatoes had been planted, and Charlie?" Papa had come out to get away from painting, but there would be a clean nest of new potatoes without any loose extra money would come in handy in the homestead venture. dirt covering them. Therefore, from the time we first arrived in North Dakota, he did painting when he could take time off from farming. Potatoes and other vegetables were kept at least until late The year 1909 was a model one. Everything seemed quite fall by putting them in a fairly deep pit. They were then promising. By that time, we had much of the land on our covered with straw and heaped over with dirt. They kept homestead broken. Ideal weather conditions resulted in a r^

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wm Pictured here is the first jury in Hettinger County, North George Klein, Charles Rumph, Bern, P.F. Ray, and Sheriff Dakota. Called to hear the case of the State of North Dakota Henry Barry; seated are (left to right) John Hallam, Oscar vs. Bert E. Thompson, the citizens found Thompson "Not Covert, Martin Van Veghel, George Thomas, Martin Guilty" of the charge of Petit Larceny. Charles E. Bern, a Ulberg, George Peterson, Attorney George II. Stone, Judge juror, is standing, fifth from the left. The other men shown J. B. Slosson and Attorney H. P. Jacobson. are (standing left to right) Charles Robson, II. T. Risty, —Bern Collection. State Historical Society of North Dakota.

107 Mr. and Mrs. Bern in the house the family built after the prairie fire which devastated their original home. —Bern Collection. State Historical Society of North Dakota. bumper crop that fall. Railroad grades were being built past Mother got Ivan, wno nad not yet started scnooi, ana tne two out land, assuring closer market places. With that in mind a of them went around the bend of the creek bank and down to grainery was built to hold the new crop until the coming of the the water's edge, thinking they could wade into the water, if railroad. We had much to be thankful for that Thanksgiving, necessary. There they stood, witnessing the destruction of all and the Christmas season was more like the ones we used to our buildings. Burning haystacks to the west of the buildings know. The folks also brought up the subject of building a new were torn to pieces by the terrific wind, and the flaming house in a year or so and made other plans for the future. Our torches of loose hay swirling around the buildings had set mother sewed through the winter months, replenishing our everything ablaze at once. The fire burned thirty miles beyond wardrobes. Our father found more time to make playthings our place in thirty minutes. for us. We were proud of the sleds, skis, crossbows, and other The smoke from the prairie fire had been pointed out to small items. We spent a happy winter. Papa in Mott just as he was finishing his job. Immediately, he It had been a rather open winter, and spring came early. struck out for home with horse and buggy, almost frantic for Papa had taken on a large job for the Brown Company. On for fear of our lives. As he approached home, he stood up in the Wednesday morning, March 23, that spring of 1910, he went to buggy, searching for sight of our mother and Ivan. Suddenly work, hoping to finish that day. That was to be the last of the he saw them standing down by the water, black with soot and painting that he would take from then on.Afford and I went to harrowed by the experience, but safe. He threw up his arms in school, and Mamma intended to wash clothes. It became so thankfulness and cried out, "Let it all go; they're safe!" He windy that she decided to finish some sewing instead and took them to Harveys, a mile away, then went back to see if worked until about noon when she stopped for a break. We had anything could be done. come home from a visit at the Ellertsons after dark on the In the meantime, Efford and I were safe at school since the evening before, and Mama discovered she had lost a brooch fire did not spread across the new railroad grade. We saw the her mother had brought with her from Norway as a young fire beyond the tracks not far from school, but did not realize girl. Now, this Wednesday noon, thinking she might have lost what had happened at home. Mr. Dortland called for Dolly it as she got out of the the buggy, our mother went out to look. Ferguson, Efford and me, and left us at Kleinjans. It was To her amazement and horror, a raging prairie fire was there we learned that our buildings were gone. We were almost upon our place. A high wall of leaping flames fed by terror-stricken about the fate of our mother and Ivan. Henry tall grass from the network of dry creek beds to the west of us Kleinjan then came from our place and told us they were at was fanned by a sixty mile per hour wind. Harveys and that we should go there too. We ran against the 108 wind, crying and lamenting the loss of our home, our toys and unusually beautiful, warm, spring days, fierce thun­ possessions, naming them off as we thought of them. derstorms, terrific winds and wind storms, hot scorching days Our father came from the ruins black with soot. He had and drought that all led to a crop failure that year. singed his hair and eyebrows while trying to save something I was eleven years old by this time and nearing the end of and a gas can exploded quite close to him. The intense smoke childhood days. As I look back over these early times, coun­ from the burning wheat made it impossible for him to get tless memories come to mind. Above all, I remember the near. It was all too far gone to do anything about it. courage and fortitude with which my parent met the whole The grainery with its 1909 crop was burned, as was the house gamut of experiences that were the lot of pioneers while at all with all its furnishings, the calves in the barn, the chickens in times providing a happy family atmosphere. Frustrations the coop, the setting hens in their nests and the cat in the were always met calmly and without complaint. They made house. The cattle were all badly burned and they died later. the best of unfortunate circumstances and always found some The horses were found in a fence corner at the end of our farm, way to meet adverse situations. also badly burned. Shooting them was a heartbreaking task Then I recall the dramatic change of season, the for our father. Our sole possessions were the horse and buggy responses to surroundings characteristic of children whose that Papa had with him in Mott. The dog's life was saved, also, delicate senses are in tune with the wonders of nature and of since he had followed our mother and Ivan. God, and the blood-curdling howling of coyotes almost every It took much courage to start from scratch. Plans had to be night that sounded different with the varying seasons or types made to carry on. The day after the fire, the Ellertsons came of weather, the peculiar whirring sound of the night hawk as it to take me home with them for a week. Our mother and the dove from heights toward the ground, the shimmering heat boys were invited into the Arnold Bannon home. I don't waves during hot summer days, the stories told by our parents remember where our father stayed, but he went to work at the of their childhood while we sat around the coalburning heater necessary tasks before him. Ethel Rumph, a young during the winter evenings, our walks to the blacksmith shop homesteader a mile from our place, graciously offered to let just east of Liberty carrying plow shares to have sharpened, us live in her shack until we could get our bearings. Not a more and the excitement of seeing the railroad in the process of convenient arrangement could have been made, and we were construction past our place. The hopes of people gradually grateful to her for her generosity. became a reality. Spirits were lifted as homesteaders thought Our father thought about some of the temporary shacks in of the far-reaching impact of the coming of the railroad. We the railroad camp which was breaking up. This was along the youngsters of the neighborhood kept close watch on its Northern Pacific tracks on the old Dobson ranch site. He made progress. The work was done with men and horses supplying arrangements to buy one and have it moved home. It consisted the power for the plows, scrapers and dump wagons. Even in of only one room, but it was quite large. Getting it ready for the driving the piles for the bridges, horses were used to pull occupancy took quite a while. In the meantime a kitchen range the weight to the top of a tower. It was then tripped, enabling it and a sewing machine were ordered from Montgomery Ward to strike the pile with great force. and Company. A folding bed, bed springs, table, and chairs The railroad crew h'ad a camp a short distance from our were purchased in Lemmon, and we were almost set for house. A man and w.ife by the name of Riley were fine, in­ moving in. teresting people hired to cook for the crew. They frequently The year 1910 was a trying one in many ways. Before I had came to our house to buy produce, such as vegetables, milk, gotten over the shock of the fire, I learned of something at butter, and eggs. One of the workers boarded at our place and school that struck dumb terror into my heart that was to last slept in a room fitted out in an empty grainery. for about six weeks. During the noon hour, I heard the older The climax of the advent of the railroad into Hettinger pupils talking aboot something that made me curious. After County was a big barbecue celebration in Mott, featuring as one event a balloon ascension (with an accidental descent in we went out to play, I asked a#girl slightly older than I what they had been talking about. It was then that the information which the rider broke a leg). There were entertainments by she gave struck me as forcefully as a bomb shell. She told of road shows, and a succession of events to make the occasion the Halley's Comet that was approaching the earth and said one never to be forgotten. that if the two should collide it would be the end of the world. Three years of homestead life had now elapsed. Two years When the school bell rang and we marched inside, I was still remained before the five year proof of entry could be made. numb with terror. The tune of the opening exercise song, These two years proved to be infinitely more difficult due to "Kind Words Can Never Die," seemed to have an ominous circumstances resulting from the fire and the severe drought presentiment about it, in keeping with the mood I was in. of both years. Final proof on the Bern homestead was made in 1912. May 17, 1910, was the date the comet was due to come its nearest to the earth. As the time approached, a head with a It is now sixty-six years since we first set foot on North fiery tail could be seen in the heavens on clear nights. I begged Dakota soil. These are no longer the prairies I knew as a child; that we might be permitted to stay home from school when the although I still love them, I no longer see them through the fateful day arrived. Since that was the day we were to move rose-colored glasses that I did. But they have taken on a into our new abode, our parents relented. May 17 arrived. I deeper meaning. The buttes to the north and to the south of us was apprehensive all day, but happy to awake the next are landmarks that have not changed with the march of time morning in our new home to see that the world was still here in and progress. They impart a feeling of solidarity that seems to all its splendor and was relieved to know it would be seventy serve as an anchor which enables us to keep our bearings and five years before its return, (actually 76.0 years). It will be gives a sense of security and repose. back in thirteen years, but I doubt if it will receive the at­ Those of us who grew up in Hettinger County and those who tention it did those many years ago. There was much are living here today are, consciously or unconsciously, the speculation about the comet, but I do not suppose as many benefactors of a rich heritage left by the early settlers. We were as frightened by it as I was. It was thought at times to count it a privilege to be living on the old homestead with its have influenced weather conditions. I remember the many precious memories of days gone by. 109 f> Co

Efford, Enid and Ivan Bern. The picture was taken shortly after the 1910 prairie fire. —Bern Collection. State Historical Society of North Dakota.

"The Enchanted Years on the Prairies" appeared previously in the Fall, 1973 (40:4) issue of North Dakota History and is reprinted through the courtesy of the State Historical Society of North Dakota. The captions are those of Larry Remele, Managing Editor of North Dakota History; the pictures are now the property of the State Historical Society of North Dakota.

110 OUR HOMESTEAD — A Reverie —

When at eve the sun is setting, Winding out across our "quarter", And its golden rays descend, Is the road that leads to town, On our shanty on the prairie, But so seldom is it traveled Like a good old trusty friend. That the grass is not trod down.

Here we gather all so happy For two weeks and sometimes longer In our shanty on the claim; Must we wait for mail from home, Warm in summer, cold in winter, Hoping that a friendly neighbor But shelter safe from storm and rain. Will bring it to us with his own.

And the golden sunflowers nodding, When at last our letters reach us, Growing where the fire-breaks plowed How we wished that there were more Forms a square around the shanty, And the bunch of daily papers, Where the weeds are not allowed How we read them o'er and o'er.

Just beyond and to the southward, In our little four roomed shanty, Loom the buttes, tall and brown, With its roof of rubber felt, "Covered o'er with creeping cedar," There is love and hope and comfort, Throwing shadows all around. Better far than fame or wealth.

Here the coyotes love to linger, We are only five in number When the twilight gently falls, Husband, wife, and children three, And the wind has ceased its blowing But we're happy and contented, And the night bird gently calls. On these prairies wide and free.

-Adapted from a poem by Mrs. Harry Day

111 kiss's