Issue no: 971 • AUGUST 11 - 14, 2017 • PUBLISHED TWICE WEEKLY PRICE: GEL 2.50

In this week’s issue... Washingtonian Article on First Georgian Restaurant in DC NEWS PAGE 2 BBC Reports on Human Chain Protest against Russian Occupation POLITICS PAGE 4 On the Wars & East-West Relations POLITICS PAGE 6 Georgian FOCUS Tourism ON THE AUGUST WAR Industry A look at the past, present and predicted outcomes nine years on Becoming from the war that cost Interesting lives, land and power PAGE 3-6 for Jews Source: streampress.com Worldwide Georgia Awards US Company BUSINESS PAGE 8 Heads for Contribution to OK! Magazine to Release Hepatitis C Elimination Program Special Batumi Edition for Regional Promotion BY THEA MORRISON SOCIETY PAGE 10 Batumi Music eorgian Prime Minister Giorgi Kvirikashvili has awarded the United States (US) Company Gilead Executive Presi- Fest: First dent John Martin with the Golden Fleece Order, and Exec- utive Vice President Greg Alton with the Order of Honor Georgian for the contribution to the Hepatitis C Elimination Program Gin Georgia. Festival under The award ceremony was held after a face-to-face meeting at the gov- ernmental administration. UNESCO At the meeting, which was attended by the Minister of Labor, Health and Social Affairs of Georgia, David Sergeenko, Kvirikashvili emphasized the Patronage special role of the medicines manufacturer company Gilead in the suc- biotechnology company Gilead signed a memorandum of understand- CULTURE PAGE 12 cessful implementation of the unprecedented program of Hepatitis C. ing. “At the meeting, we assessed the program as successful, having saved The project helps to reduce and prevent Hepatitis C cases in Georgia. the lives of 40 thousand people,” the Minister of Health stated. The main goal of the project is to stop the disease from being highly The President of Gilead also underlined that the progress achieved contagious. The treatment is free of charge for citizens of Georgia. through the implementation of the program is impressive. All applicants must undergo necessary laboratory examination and if “It was an honor for me to discuss the implementation of the Hepatitis the appropriate results are shown, the special commission decides if the C program with the Prime Minister. We are impressed with the achieved applicant fi ts the project or not. results,” he said. During the fi rst stage, Sofosbuvir was used as the primary medicine. According to Alton, the Georgian model of hepatitis elimination pro- However, for the second stage Havron was introduced, a newer medicine gram is exemplary for the world. which is believed to cure 95% of Hepatitis C patients. “This program is good for the people of Georgia but also it serves as a The average index of Hepatitis C in Georgia is 7.7, which puts it in the demonstration of what a country can do for its citizens: the model that top fi ve countries in the world with a high rate of the disease. has been applied in Georgia can eliminate Hepatitis C globally,” he stated. At present, more than 40,000 benefi ciaries are included in the Hepa- The health project ‘Georgia without Hepatitis C’ was launched in the titis C program, with more than 31,000 treatment courses already com- country on April 21, 2015, when the government of Georgia and American pleted. GEORGIA TODAY 2 NEWS AUGUST 11 - 14, 2017 Washingtonian Article on First Georgian Restaurant in DC

in the country. Nelms fi nally managed BY TAMZIN WHITEWOOD to visit Georgia and instantly fell in love with the melting-pot type cuisine the country has to offer, with infl uences from his autumn, Washington its neighboring countries. When he DC, USA, will see its fi rst returned to the US, he and his wife Laura ever Georgian restaurant found themselves missing the food. opening, to be aptly named Eventually, it inspired them to open their 'Supra'. The opening has fi rst restaurant. Tled to an article being published by the "Georgian cuisine shares some simi- Washingtonian, a leading paper in the larities with Mediterranean and Middle US capital. Eastern cuisines, but the country’s rela- The article talks about the inspiration tive mountainous isolation means it’s behind the restaurant, as well as the fact also quite unique. You’ll fi nd kebabs with that Georgian Wine is also becoming sour plum sauce or chili paste, but also more and more popular in the US. Owner a lot of vegetable dishes. Walnuts and Jonathan Nelms is not Georgian, but has pomegranates play prominently in the had a lifelong connection to Georgia. food, as do spices and herbs like tarra- Growing up in central Florida, Nelms gon, coriander, dried marigold petals, befriended a Soviet-Georgian exchange and blue fenugreek," the article reads. student who came to his high school in "Nelms has brought on Malkhaz Maisash- 1989. Then, in the last year of the Soviet vili, a former chef of the Embassy of Union, Nelms went to what is now north- Georgia who has most recently been ern Russia, where he remembers everyone working in New York, to lead the kitchen. talking about Georgia being their favorite Nelms had unknowingly tried Maisash- Photo courtesy of The Washingtonian place. “In my mind, it was like this myth- vili’s food in 2011 in , where he ical land far away,” the article quotes him. was one of the executive chefs of a well- everyone he met was pointing him in behind the dumplings, and how to eat put the nobs on their plate to count how As the years passed, Nelms ended up known restaurant group specializing in Maisashvili’s direction," author Jessica them the Georgian way. "You hold them many they’ve eaten". living in , where he frequented Georgian cuisine. In recent years, when Sidman continues. by a small nob of dough on top, take a Supra is set to open in Washington DC Georgian restaurants and fell in love word got out that Nelms was looking to The article mentions dishes such as little bite, sip out the hot liquid, then eat in early autumn. Read the full article with the food without even stepping foot open a Georgian restaurant, it seemed khinkali, describing in detail the etiquette the whole thing. Georgians traditionally online at washingtonian.com. ENOC Continues to Supply Crude Oil to Iran Despite Sanctions

It is believed that this maneuver is The ship movements might be SOURCE: PIA linked to the fact that Dragon Oil and explained as the attempts of Dragon Oil ENOC failed to obtain the necessary and ENOC to hide the true destination permissions from Turkmenistan gov- of crude oil delivery – Iran, and, there- s previously reported, at ernment authorities (State Customs fore, to avoid being included on the list the end of July, a VF Services and others), allowing the sup- of companies violating US sanctions Tanker-20 carrying crude ply of Turkmen crude oil to Iran, and, against Iran. oil produced by Dragon therefore, issued cargo and custom NIOC and NICO (a trading structure Oil, arrived at the dock of documents showing the port of dis- of NIOC) and their related entities in ABaku Port, Azerbaijan. However, after charge as Baku, Azerbaijan, for further various countries are included on the a one-week delay related to the detec- transit delivery to . US sanctions list. tion of some undeclared cargo on board, It is said to be possible that Dragon Oil At present, Dragon Oil and ENOC are the vessel went to the Iranian port of will be unable to obtain such permission loading the third crude oil cargo aboard Neka and discharged its crude oil to the due to the worsening of relations between vessel VF Tanker-13 (belonging to the terminal operated by the National Ira- Turkmenistan and Iran following a dis- same shipping company VF Tanker from nian Oil Company (NIOC). pute over payment for Turkmen natural Russia). Whether this vessel will go to On August 7, VF Tanker-20 loaded a gas delivered to Iran and the intention Iran again, bypassing the US sanctions new cargo of crude oil in Aladja Port, tion of Baku, Azerbaijan. However, soon Turkmenistan, the ship turned south of the Iranian side to sue Turkmenistan and customs regulations of Turkmeni- Turkmenistan and moved in the direc- after exiting the territorial waters of and later arrived at Neka Port in Iran. in international arbitration courts. stan, remains to be seen. GEORGIA TODAY AUGUST 11 - 14, 2017 NEWS 3 August 2008 War Museum Opens in Ergneti

living in the village. She then founded BY NINO GUGUNISHVILI the museum entirely at her own expense. “When we came home on August 19, 2008, we saw that there were only walls few meters from the occu- and ashes left of our house. It was a pation line, in the basement tragedy. Those fi ve days of war in August of the Ergneti village house 2008 were the most dramatic in our of local resident Lia Chla- recent history and I wanted the museum chidze, a museum dedi- to show that,” Chlachidze said in a TV Acated to the 2008 war was opened. comment to Rustavi 2. Chlachidze’s house was burned down A car, riddled with bullet holes, stands in August 2008. On rebuilding it, she in the yard of her house in Ergneti vil- began to collect photo materials, burned lage, as one of the most poignant images clothes, toys, plates and bomb shards- all of the war. The museum opening was mementos from the period of the Russia- attended by Georgian government offi - Georgia war given to her by the families cials. World Famous Jeans to Be Produced in Western Georgia the fi rst instance. cooperation of the regional adminis- BY THEA MORRISON Over the next three years, they plan to tration with the Turkish side,” Saluk- increase the investment volume by up vadze stated. to $15 million and employ up to 1500 Georgian company Ozurgeti Garment ara, Mango, Bershka and Mas- people. has already been registered for the pro- simo Dutti jeans are to be Governor Gia Salukvadze said that ject. The founders of the LLC have produced in Ozurgeti, west- Baykanlar was actively researching the addressed the Ministry of Economy over ern Georgia, from 2018. possibility of opening a sewing factory the handover of real estate within the The Guria region Gover- in Georgia and held meetings in differ- frames of the state-led program Produce Znor’s Press Offi ce reports that Turkish ent regions of the country. in Georgia. The agreement between the company Baykanlar plans to invest GEL “The decision was made to open the Georgian side and Turkish company will 2 million and will employ 300 people in factory as a result of the intensive be signed in the near future. Photo Source: imedinews.ge GEORGIA TODAY 4 POLITICS AUGUST 11 - 14, 2017 Why Did Russia Do It?

and South Ossetia, Moscow would have BY EMIL AVDALIANI been simply shut off from processes in The army barracks outside Gori, the central Georgian town bombed during the 5-day war, remembers the the South Caucasus. event by lowering the Georgian fl ag to half-mast Yet another signifi cance of the break- his August 8 marked the away regions for the Russians has been ninth anniversary of the to keep their troops as close as possible Russia-Georgia war and, to Tbilisi. This has been done in order quite naturally, public sen- timents in Georgia have Tbeen high this week across the whole country. TV channels and various pub- lications have been full of articles dedi- cated to the event. Amidst that, it is often easy to be misled as to why Russia invaded Georgia in 2008. Russian attitudes It should be noted from the beginning that the Russian attitudes toward Geor- toward Georgia gia are neither based on racial or nation- to constantly have any Georgian govern- stable and pro-western. It is exactly for over, the Caspian energy corridor would alistic premises. Moscow simply pursues are neither based ment under pressure by ramping up or these reasons that the Russians have again see its relevance and Central Asian a policy entirely based on geopolitical cooling military activities in the breaka- been threatening the road, pipeline and gas could reach Europe. calculations. It is not even about grab- on racial nor way regions. Georgia will always be railway infrastructure running from east Georgia in NATO/the EU would threaten bing additional Georgian land per se, as interesting for Moscow due to its geo- Georgia to the Black Sea shore and vital Russia’s position in Armenia, too. Yere- many want to think. The stationing of nationalistic graphical position in the South Caucasus. to the entire region. In Moscow’s think- van has its own reasons to be Russia’s Russian military forces in Abkhazia and And it is not only about barring Tbilisi ing, an unstable South Caucasus full of close ally, but there are also powers which South Ossetia and the effective occupa- premises. from joining NATO or the EU. Russia’s Russian troops (as is the case in our could challenge Armenia’s Russian tion of those regions serves a number goal historically has been to minimize time) is what would limit, if not entirely dependence with NATO/EU member of military and security aims. Moscow simply the importance of the Caucasus moun- preclude, Georgia from joining western Georgia to their north. Moreover, the The primary reason for fostering sep- tain range as a barrier between the South alliances. ability of Russia to operate its military aratist regimes in Abkhazia and South pursues a policy Caucasus and the Russian mainland. Thus, these are those geopolitical base in Gyumri will also be questioned Ossetia in the early 1990s was to get hold An insecure, destabilized South Cau- imperatives which drive Russia’s foreign as it will be increasingly diffi cult to man- of the vitally important Roki Pass and entirely based on casus would be a serious problem for policy in the South Caucasus. We deal age the base disconnected by NATO Abkhazian seashore. Both these routes Moscow as it could spill over into the here not necessarily with the anti-Geor- member Georgia. It would not even be directly connect the breakaway territo- geopolitical North Caucasus (Chechnya, Dagestan gian government of Vladimir Putin, but so much about Russia’s ability to man- ries with the Russian mainland. In other etc.). But it would be more problematic rather a well-thought out strategy on the age the Gyumri base, but the capabilities words, without control over Abkhazia calculations for Moscow if the South Caucasus was Russian part as to how to effectively to counter prospective Western military project its military power into the region bases in Georgia in case of military esca- by limiting the barrier capacity of the lation. Caucasus Mountains. It is all very much hypothetical, but I This would also mean that in the event try to show through this scenario how of a regime change in Moscow, it is very strategically important Georgia is for unlikely that there would be a change in Russia. And this again brings us back to Russian foreign policy towards the South the events of 2008. There is no point Caucasus. It is in Russia’s vital interests trying to fi nd mistakes or missed oppor- to keep Georgia at least very weak and tunities in Georgia’s foreign policy since unstable. On the opposite side, the loss the break-up of the Soviet Union. What- of Georgia to the West would mean a ever the foreign policy course of Tbilisi rapid decrease of Russian power with had been, the country would still have much wider ramifi cations for the entire experienced Russian interference. Rus- former Soviet space. “Russia-free” Geor- sia’s geopolitical imperatives simply gia is a nightmare for Moscow as the demand wider access to the South Cau- Kremlin would then be less able to pres- casus which, unfortunately for Georgia, sure Azerbaijan on export routes. More- lies through its territory. BBC Reports on Human Chain Protest against Russian Occupation

The article quotes the words of one of BY NINO GUGUNISHVILI the organizers of the protest, David Kat- sarava, “The war did not fi nish in 2008 - it continues every day, because the he BBC reported on the Russian occupiers are on our land”. peaceful protest against "Our aim is to unite people and to give Russian occupation held them the feeling that it's possible to on the Gori highway near change something in this war," Katsarava the country’s Russian-con- told Ms Demytrie. Ttrolled South Ossetia region, on August The article then recounts the story of 8. The protest saw hundreds of Georgian the Russia-Georgia confl ict in 2008, as citizens form a 400-meter human chain. “Georgia attempted to recapture the The BBC article, titled ‘Georgians breakaway South Ossetia” from a mas- Mourn Russian Land Grab in South sive Russian invasion which saw several Ossetia War’ reported that hundreds of towns, a Black Sea port and military Georgians had formed a human chain. airfi elds bombed by Russian Air Forces. ‘Young and old held hands and stood in “Several hundred people lost their lives silence under the scorching sun’ author and thousands of ethnic Georgians were Rayhan Demytrie wrote in her article. displaced by the confl ict,” the article Many protesters held Georgian fl ags and goes on to say. banners condemning the occupation. Read the full article on BBC.com.

GEORGIA TODAY 6 POLITICS AUGUST 11 - 14, 2017 On the Wars & East-West Relations

INTERVIEW BY ANNA BORDERS IN SOUTH OSSETIA AND ABKHAZIA? KALANDADZE, VOICE OF Putin’s visits to the region are in line AMERICA GEORGIAN SERVICE with the Russian ambition over the last several years to align separatist regions politically, economically and in security iming to take a closer look terms with Russia. With South Ossetia, at US Vice President Mike this has gone quite far; with Abkhazia it Pence’s recent reassurances has been quite obstreperous. But there to Georgia, the anniversary is an interest in the Kremlin to maximize of the Russia-Georgia war direct Russian control of the region. At Aand other aspects of Georgia's foreign the same time, if not heading down the policy, we spoke to Jeffrey Mankoff, path of formal annexation, which was Deputy Director of the Russia and Eur- the case in Crimea leading to the sanc- asia Program at the Center for Strategic tions, having de-facto control of these and International Studies. regions over the longer term is within the Kremlin’s interest. Moreover, mov- HOW WOULD YOU ing the border posts along the lines of SUMMARIZE PENCE’S MAIN contact is a way for Moscow to keep a MESSAGE TO GEORGIA? continuing pressure on Georgia, and to I think the Vice President has become signal that the status-quo, established in the point person for the Administration 2008 is not the fi nal one and what hap- on providing reassurance to the US allies pens there in the longer term is going to and partners on the Eastern fl ank of depend on the political conjunction of Europe, along with Secretary Mattis. I the larger context of Russia’s relations think his goal while traveling there was with the West. to reassure Georgia and others of US support and to confi rm that the US con- DO YOU THINK RUSSIA’S siders the Russian threat and challenge ACTIONS IN UKRAINE COULD to these countries as something it would HAVE BEEN PREVENTED BY A push against. The question that many STRONGER INTERNATIONAL Jeffrey Mankoff, Deputy Director of the Russia and Eurasia Program at the Center for Strategic and International Studies people in the region and here have is the REACTION TO GEORGIA’S calculation. Ultimately, it changed the a conversation on providing lethal assis- Georgia’s moving as well as it can, given extent to which the Vice President or OCCUPATION? contours of relations between US and tance to Ukraine. Again, in principle, I the political headwinds. The Association anybody else can speak for the US Admin- The US denounced Russia’s actions in Russia, and Russia and the EU in pretty don’t think there is anything wrong with agreement was signed and is being imple- istration and to what degree there is a Georgia in 2008 but did not move in a fundamental ways, in a way that the inva- providing that assistance but given where mented and the Georgian government is coherent approach to any of these issues. kinetic way. I think the US lacked options: sion of Georgia did not. the confl ict currently is, a low-level, sim- conducting reforms to bring the country I don’t have an answer to that, I doubt Russia moved very quickly and the fi ght- mering confl ict, I doubt the provision of closer to European standards. At the same anybody does. These reassurances from ing was over in fi ve days. There has been WHAT ARE YOUR ARGUMENTS US or European defensive assistance is time, there is less appetite in Brussels for Pence are very promising for Georgia, a lot of criticism of the Bush and Obama FOR OR AGAINST PROVIDING going to make a decisive difference in bringing the new members into the EU Estonia and others, but until there’s a administrations for wanting to normal- DEFENSIVE WEAPONS TO the fi ghting in Ukraine and is likely to or NATO, and that is just a fundamental message to back it up from the President, ize and hit a reset process with Russia GEORGIA, CONSIDERING complicate the politics even further. So, reality that Georgia and other post-Soviet there’s still going to be a degree of con- without considering the de-facto situa- THE BIG PICTURE THAT THE while the timing isn’t great, if there’s a countries are going to face for some time cern in those countries about the US tion in Georgia. It’s an issue for debate COUNTRY LIVES UNDER large-scale resumption of fi ghting, it’s in the future. The challenge for these support they can expect. and I don’t fault any of them for going RUSSIA’S ILLEGAL OCCUPATION? an option that needs to be kept on the institutions is to provide incentive for down that path. But the Russians took I have no objections to providing lethal, table for both Ukraine and Georgia. these countries to go ahead with the PUTIN TRAVELLED TO ABKHAZIA away a lesson when they didn’t face long- defensive assistance to Georgia. I think reforms and to remain valuable partners ON AUGUST 8. HOW WOULD lasting effect: they were determined they if it’s done, it’ll be a political decision WHAT’S YOUR VIEW OF to the West when the lure of membership YOU CHARACTERIZE RUSSIA’S could get away with a similar scenario and has to be part of a larger political GEORGIA’S EURO-ATLANTIC in these organizations is off the table at ACTIVITIES ON GEORGIA’S in Ukraine. In some ways, it was a mis- calculation. Congress recently restarted INTEGRATION EFFORTS? least in the foreseeable future. EU Delegation, US Department of State Denounce Russian President’s Visit to Breakaway Abkhazia

Abkhazia. I am sure that will continue BY THEA MORRISON to be the case,” Reuters quoted Putin. Russian news agency Tass reports that at the meeting Putin pointed to the need ussian President, Vladimir for optimal ways to develop Abkhazia’s Putin, visited Georgia’s economy for job creation and its own occupied region of Abkha- tax base. zia on August 8, a day which Apsnypress, the de facto Abkhazian marked nine years since the state-led news agency, reported that the fiR ve-day Georgia-Russia August war in de facto president of Abkhazia stressed 2008 which left hundreds dead and thou- August 8 was a day of both mourning sands displaced. and thanks for Abkhazians and Ossetians. The European Union (EU) Delegation “On this day began the large-scale to Georgia released a statement criticiz- operation by the Georgian army and the ing the visit. decisive actions taken by Russia which “The visit of the President of the Rus- enabled the preservation of South Osse- sian Federation to Georgia's breakaway tia and of course gave the possibility for region of Abkhazia on the day of the further recognition of our governments, anniversary of the August 2008 war, like for which we convey enormous thanks,” similar visits before it, infringes upon the the article quotes Khajimba as saying. principle of Georgia's territorial integrity Politico.eu reported that NATO was and risks jeopardizing international efforts also critical of Putin’s visit to occupied directed at the peaceful resolution of the Source: Apsnypress.info Abkhazia. confl ict,” the statement reads. ritorial integrity. visit, stating that the step was a legiti- While in the breakaway region, Putin “President Putin’s visit to the Abkhazia The Delegation went on to recall the “The United States views the visit of mization of a forceful change of borders met with the so-called President of Abk- region of Georgia, on the ninth anniver- fi rm support of the European Union for President Putin to the Russian occupied of the sovereign state through military hazia, Raul Khajimba, where he said that sary of the armed confl ict, is detrimen- Georgia's sovereignty and territorial Georgian territory of Abkhazia as inap- aggression, ethnic cleansing and occu- Moscow was committed to building a tal to international efforts to fi nd a peace- integrity within its internationally rec- propriate and inconsistent with the prin- pation. They called on the Russian Fed- joint Russian-Abkhaz military contingent ful settlement,” the spokesman, Dylan ognized borders. ciples underlying the Interna- eration to cease its provocative actions to ‘ensure the security of the people in White, said in a statement. The United States Department of State tional Discussions, to which Russia is a against the Georgian statehood and Abkhazia’. “We regret that this visit was carried released a statement urging Russia to party,” the statement reads. respect the territorial integrity of the "We reliably guarantee the security, out without the prior consent of the respect Georgia's sovereignty and ter- Offi cials in Tbilisi also condemned the sovereign state self-suffi ciency and independence of Georgian authorities,” he added.

GEORGIA TODAY 8 BUSINESS AUGUST 11 - 14, 2017 Why are they Still in Business?

Who is helping them? Are businesses OP-ED BY NUGZAR B. RUHADZE like this subsidized? Why? What is the bottom-line? What special goals are they pursuing? I can understand why people he failure of the idea of want to keep television and radio sta- communism and the demise tions running without any remuneration of socialism 30 years ago – these are wonderful toys in the hands on the territory of the for- of those who make money elsewhere mer Soviet Union has and consider radio and television as a Tmostly been succeeded by the appear- medium which is worth investing money ance of the wildest possible capitalism in, catering to their own, deeply private on the selfsame territory, including in interests, but why do people keep mer- Georgia. Almost every possible brand chandise stores which are not frequented in the world has emerged here since at all, or are visited only sporadically? then, from Coca-Cola and McDonald’s Perhaps this is a feature of the economy to famous French perfume fi rms and of a developing country where people wine stores. Tbilisi is literally overfl ow- are charitable enough to let the business ing with foreign vestment shops and environment mature so much that in a kitchen utensil joints. Chic trade malls couple of hundred years they might yield have become a regular sight here and something lucrative, letting tomorrow’s restaurants look as rich as in any famous How can a nation with only 3.5 million people, the majority of whom cannot even pay their monthly utility bills, create a clientele generation enjoy today’s investment in for stores and restaurants with prices like that? Source: fl ipboard.com city of the world. their noble predecessors. These are all the unfailing features of say no. Let us go to those new-born malls country places are through the roof. Who and that question needs not only to be I apologize for my sarcasm, but I am a country which is fl owing with milk and stores and count how many clients buys food or merchandise there? How asked but answered, too. The survival sincerely interested in why it makes and honey and where a high standard of they enjoy round-the-clock. They are can a nation with only 3.5 million people, of a business in an environment which sense to run a store which is visited by living is a norm. Is this true or not in often more empty than not, only seeing the majority of whom cannot even pay is devoid of market features is almost no or few customers. Truth has become case of this particular country? Those the occasional straggler sauntering in to their monthly utility bills, create a cli- impossible. If you don’t sell your prod- a very expensive commodity in our times who are fi xtures in those stores and res- enjoy the air-conditioning in the sum- entele for stores and restaurants with uct, how can you continue operating? but the human aspiration to its essence taurants will say yes, but they are in a mer heat or, in winter, to warm up. The prices like that? There is something uncannily fi shy in is so overwhelming that we cannot but fl agrant minority, and those who make reason for that emptiness is that the So, how come they are still in business? businesses which are not making money stay curious. Would anybody venture to the unfortunate majority will defi nitely prices in those unnatural-for-a-poor- I think this is the question of the century, and are still out there in the marketplace. give me that piece of the truth? Georgian Tourism Industry Becoming Interesting for Jews Worldwide

He goes on to tell us that the interest level boutique hotel/museum in the bath INTERVIEW BY of the Jewish investors from various district, has already been granted and GEORGE BERNSTEIN countries worldwide towards the Geor- the construction works will start as soon gian tourism industry, real estate and as the investors group is formatted; and hotel business is also increasing on a one of the largest scale projects, Kass e spoke to Itsik Moshe, daily basis. The increase of demand for Boutique Hotel Group’s Hotel Gergeti, the President of the high class 5+ star hotels and boutique is to open in 2019. Currently, we are lead- Israel-Georgia Cham- hotels, as well as 3-star hotels, can be ing the negotiations with Akoris Group ber of Business, about observed. in Tbilisi to open the 3-star hotel Ibis the Georgian tourism Red by the dry bridge, following on from Wsector and the growing interest of the WHAT PROJECTS ARE the group opening the Ibis Styles Tbilisi Jewish community in visiting the coun- EXECUTED BY THE MEMBER Center Hotel this year. try. COMPANIES AND INVESTORS “Positive shifts can be observed in THAT COME THROUGH HOW WILL THE HOTEL BOOM many directions,” Moshe tells us. “The YOUR ORGANIZATION? REFLECT ON THE LOCAL following data is particularly interest- Our member companies are actively TOURISM INDUSTRY? IS ing: fi rstly, there is a 55 percent increase working in the hotel direction: the con- GEORGIA ATTRACTIVE IN in the number tourists from Israel com- struction of Rixos Tbilisi is in its fi nal TERMS OF TOURISM FOR Itsik Moshe, the President of the Israel-Georgia Chamber of Business pared to 2016 and a 43.6 percent increase phase with internal facing works under- THE JEWISH COMMUNITY only in the fi rst half of 2017. The number way. However, allegedly it will not be WORLDWIDE? and its Association for the Preservation with it on September 5 in the hall of the of direct fl ights from Israel exceeds 80 opened until the construction of the Let us begin with the raw numbers – in and Promotion of Jewish Culture and National Parliamentary Library of Geor- per month in summer and the data only neighboring Panorama Tbilisi facade a period of two years there will be a Heritage (AEPJ) and the Ministry of gia. The project will be another step of June 2017 suggests that there is already works are over; the high standard shortage of about 5000 hotel rooms Culture and Monument Protection of towards strengthening the relations of a 37 percent increase in this direction Rustaveli Boutique Hotel, with its orig- compared to the demand; a new trend Georgia, are starting a new project: Georgia with the world’s Jewish com- as well. The number of airlines operat- inal theme, is already functioning and of development of new directions in European Route of Jewish Heritage in munity, which will be positivity refl ected ing in the Georgian market and the has been handed over for management tourism can be observed; cultural tours Georgia, the presentation of this tour on the number of Jewish tourists com- number of annual international fl ights to a Georgian company; Final Construc- are becoming especially important. took place on June 27 in Jerusalem, while ing from Israel as well as the rest of the has also increased signifi cantly”. tion permit for Art Hotel, another high- Israeli House, with the Council of Europe Georgian society will get acquainted world.

Tel: (995 32) 2 45 08 08 10 Galaktion Street E-mail: [email protected] GEORGIA TODAY AUGUST 11 - 14, 2017 SOCIETY 9 Without Citizen Involvement, There is No Self-Government ipality budget is for the needs of local citizens and BY NINO GUGUNISHVILI communities and they are eligible to demand, attend the sakrebulo meetings, or apply with petitions,” David Jikia, Mayor of Rustavi and President of the he whole idea behind local self-gov- National Association of Local Authorities (NALAG) ernance can be boiled down to one told GEORGIA TODAY. simple stance: that people should be He argues though that the relationship has to be given a share in decisions that concern mutual. “The majority of requests that we receive their communities. In other words, are about construction of recreational areas or Tthe participation of citizens who take up part of football playgrounds, restoring roofs or building the responsibility for their villages, towns and entrances. Though often it is diffi cult to make peo- regions is the very essence of local self-governance. ple comprehend that once the work is done, the Even though the Georgian government has been care and maintenance should be largely the com- carrying out local self-governance reforms for more munity’s responsibility,” the Mayor said. than a decade, both local authorities and citizens Merab Topchishvili, the Gamgebeli (Governor) are still getting used to the fact that they can and of Marneuli, sees the independence of local author- they should get actively involved with each other. ities as a main factor of the successful implemen- According to a recent survey conducted by United tation of the reform. He argues that giving greater Nations Development Program (UNDP), only 1 in opportunities for mayors and governors to make 5 citizens approached local authorities over the decisions independently, together with involve- past two years. This, experts say, needs to change ment of citizens in local budget planning, has in order for Georgia to complete its transformation resulted in countless grass-root activities and pro- from post-Soviet, centralized rule into a full-time jects, such as pre-school and care centers or ini- democracy. ment. Governors, mayors and sakrebulo (assembly) the end of 2017. tiatives supporting women’s activity. Shombi Sharp, Deputy Resident Representative members are obligated to present their annual “The ‘Fostering Regional and Local Government In Marneuli, the so-called civic budget is one of of UNDP in Georgia, is, however, optimistic about reports to the community and answer the citizen’s in Georgia’ program consists of several major com- the tools being introduced to ensure that local the process. “More and more, people are becoming questions. ponents. One is policy and legislative support pri- funds are distributed in a fair and inclusive man- true owners of the regional and local governance Zviad Devdariani, Head of the Civil Development marily to the MRDI and of course to the local ner. One of the projects fi nanced through this budget reform in Georgia, with the country’s vibrant and Agency (CiDA), noted that while there are defi - municipal and regional governance bodies,” Marika was Women’s Room: a consultancy and training active civil society helping to increasingly bridge nitely positive trends to see, there is still vast room Shioshvili, Project Manager, UNDP told GEORGIA center where people are offered assistance in draft- this gap and bring local authorities and citizens for improvement for the governance system in TODAY. “Another component of the project focuses ing and submitting their projects. This, Topchish- closer together,” he said. general. on strategic planning at central, municipal and vili says, has signifi cantly increased the activity of Obviously, this sort of transformation requires “The role of self-governing bodies is to foster and regional levels, seeing the implementation of citizens, women in particular. huge efforts and doesn’t happen overnight. Together initiate long-term partnerships with local commu- regional development strategies together with local “It is still a common attitude that local authori- with changing the existing mentality and attitudes, nities instead of providing them with one-time and regional municipalities, and that’s exactly the ties are responsible for everything, an idea coming thorough changes need to be made at all levels of assistance, and the role of NGOs and of interna- space where citizen participation is crucial; iden- from a Soviet past. It needs time and awareness- state institutions, and in parallel with the introduc- tional organizations is to ensure such links are tifying and naming their priorities”. raising, but eventually it will change. We still need tion of new laws and regulations. established,” Devdariani told us. To provide that link, the program introduced a to understand that our town, city, country belongs These issues were addressed in the amendments Support to the reform of the local self-governance small grant scheme: a competition for local non- to us and we are all responsible for it,” Topchishvili to the Local Self-Governance Code, introduced in system has come from numerous donor organiza- governmental organizations on projects corre- said. 2015. New regulations allowed the allocation of tions. The governments of Switzerland and , sponding to the needs and priorities identifi ed by Looking back, it seems that a huge step forward specifi c funds to local budgets to support citizen respectively, provide fi nancial assistance to ‘Fos- the regional development strategies. The scheme has indeed been made since the times of the cen- participation and introduced legal mechanisms tering Regional and Local Government in Georgia,’ resulted in 31 local projects implemented across tralized planning pursued by Soviet authorities. enabling general community meetings and peti- a comprehensive program supporting the reform, the six regions of Georgia in 2016-2017. Now, as But as the road takes Georgia further, new chal- tions. Based on those regulations, it is now possible facilitated by the UNDP with the Ministry of Marika Shioshvili says, it’s time for municipalities lenges emerge and the question as to whether for citizens to fi le a petition on any issue which Regional Development and Infrastructure of Geor- to step up to the new reality and use all possible Georgia reaches the destination of a full decen- falls under the local self-government’s competence gia as a main partner institution. The program was tools to reach out to communities. tralization of powers and resources still remains and attend assembly meetings without prior arrange- launched back in 2012 and is set to continue until “We always try to communicate that the munic- open. Beyond Tbilisi: Calvert Journal Writes About Georgia

Drone view Mtskheta, Georgia (cinematography version). Source:Copter Ge of hire cars around the city. Set in the mountain BY TAMZIN WHITEWOOD wilds not far from Tbilisi, it’s easy to dismiss Jvari as too touristy; the wise course, perhaps, is to set your alarm clock early, rent a car and head there he London based Calvert Journal has before the crowds arrive. It was here on the moun- published an article on tourism in tain that Saint Nino, the bringer of Christianity to Georgia, and the many great attrac- Georgia, erected a cross: ‘Jvari’ in Georgian. But tions to be seen outside of the capital. leaving such holy matters to one side, this is a place The article starts by mentioning the to lose yourself in the otherworldly beauty, where Tunmistakable hospitality of Georgians upon arriv- rocks and rivers meet, haze-lit in the morning sun." ing at Tbilisi airport, with locals eager for tourists Other parts of the country are also mentioned: to try Georgian cuisine and visit the many attrac- "The cave city of Uplistsikhe (which means “the tions the country has to offer. Lord’s fortress”) was one of Georgia’s fi rst, before "The wind blows warm and sweet as you step out being abandoned by its residents in the 19th cen- of Tbilisi airport. The taxi drivers mingle around tury. Uplistsikhe comprises various levels of caves offering you a ride. You get in a car, start the inev- and recesses carved into the rock face. It is a mirage itable carefree chat with the driver, and it comes among the sand dunes, a fairy-tale city in the mid- as no surprise when he offers you a stopover for dle of the rock formations known as Georgia’s khinkali and kindzmarauli in Abanotubani, the “Grand Canyon”. The journey from Tbilisi, travers- capital’s ancient sulphuric baths district (his treat, ing Martian landscapes, brisk mountain streams of course): welcome to Georgia’s faultlessly wel- and the birthplace of Joseph Stalin, is around two coming capital," the article begins. hours from end to end. Getting there on your own The publication mentions that Tbilisi is a hard is complicated (you’ll have to take a bus to Gori place to leave, with many things to see and do and change, before walking several kilometers), so within the capital alone, yet goes on to say that it the best option is going with a driver and staying is well worth the minibus trip outside the city lim- at Jvari en route. Rental cars start at 140 GEL ($58) its. "Signs for ‘Jvari’ will be staring down at you per day in low season," says the author. from every tourist board and the dusty windscreens Read the full article on calvertjournal.com. GEORGIA TODAY 10 SOCIETY AUGUST 11 - 14, 2017 OK! Magazine to Release Special Batumi Edition for Regional Promotion

OK! Batumi will give signifi cant space The supporters of OK! Batumi are: the BY MAKA LOMADZE to tourism in Batumi and the Adjara Adjaran Ministry of Finance and Econ- region, offering readers the full low omy; the Tourism Department of Adjara, down on the unique tourism potential the Georgian National Tourism Admin- K! Magazine is to prepare of the coastal-mountainous region. The istration and Batumi City Hall. a special edition: OK! concept was revealed on July 29, at OK! Batumi will be published in Sep- Batumi, which is dedi- Radisson Blu Hotel Batumi. The pres- tember and will be distributed around cated to the modern ten- entation of OK! Batumi will take place Tbilisi and throughout Georgia together dencies of the beautiful at the beginning of September in Batumi. with OK! Magazine. It will also be dis- capitalO of Adjara, as well as to details Attending the festive reception were tributed to popular cafes, bars, restau- of the lives and creativity of Batumi the representatives of the Adjaran Gov- rants, hotels, beauty salons, clinics and celebrities; those generations of suc- ernment, along with those of local busi- shops in Batumi. cessful faces who make up modern ness and show business, and guests of Adjara, as well as modern Georgia, by Batumi. Radisson Blu Hotel Batumi is You can now download OK! Magazine’s contributing to development in culture, the traditional supporter of Batumi cul- mobile application to catch all the important arts, education, sports, business and tural projects and readily hosted the cultural and celebrity news (available in civil society. celebratory event. Georgian). Some Assembly Required: Etseri, Svaneti taking the photo, too), and the German lady was the stereotypical lead engineer- ing mastermind behind fi guring out what went where with what from all the dis- parate pieces we had. No tools came with our purchase, but we needed exactly one: a Philips screwdriver, check. Once we had the pieces separated as the fi rst big job, we knew we were on uncertain ground when it came to order of operations, with no instructions included, just a photo of a similar fi n- ished item. And we did make a couple of mistakes which needed backtracking, undoing and then redoing in a better that a) we don’t need a sink, b) it needn’t order. But one thing we could say was BLOG BY TONY HANMER be more than 4 doors wide, and c) it that not a single screw was missing from must be packed into my 4x4, to be reas- the whole large collection needed in the sembled at the other end. I wasn’t expect- proceedings. ou know that cute phrase, ing solid wood, had been instructed NOT The cabinet sat came in two pieces, don’t you, dear reader? The to buy anything second hand no matter one sitting on the other instead of being one featured in large or tiny how good, so was expecting fi berboard, bolted to the wall (which would have print on that item you’ve or DSP as it’s locally called. Not too required a magnetic stud fi nder to avoid just acquired be it toy, elec- expensive or fancy, but nice enough for hanging it on mere drywall). Nice and tronicY device or piece of furniture. The a hopefully steady stream of upstairs solid. Nothing wasted, no tempers frayed. manufacturers cover their bases legally, guests to use for some years without My wife held or passed around screws, so that when you get home and realize falling apart. anchored this or that item when we that the thing isn’t “plug ‘n’ play”, they Finally, one set ticked all the boxes, and needed some leverage to push the driver can just point you to that text and let as a bonus, the same shop featured a against, and generally encouraged us on. you know that the fun is just beginning. good-looking table with a foldout leaf, It helped hugely that she liked my choices IKEA has turned this into an art form, a going from minimum 6 to 8 or more sit- of model and color, and she approved performance art, that is, in which the ters. I asked for it to be ready to load in their fi t into the existing space’s décor, purchaser all too willingly participates a couple of hours, and drove away on too. The Armenian and I supplied the and receives, at the end, the satisfaction other shopping business. torque with a screwdriver each to speed of having participated. All tools, to say How two men shorter than I am got things up. nothing of parts and fasteners, are the table top onto my car’s roof with no Now we are one step further along in included. damage to the former, or to themselves the guest house’s fl exibility plan to So my wife tasked me with buying some is still beyond me, but my stretchy hooked accommodate as many different kinds kitchen furniture in Zugdidi for the ongo- ties soon had the thing subdued and not of guests as possible. Next, as the hot ing upstairs second kitchen project of going anywhere. The rest we loaded weather continues: a gazebo for twenty the guest house. This is where our self- inside, and off I went into the sunset in the front yard! service guests will be free to cook and towards home. clean up for themselves, to save their A kind pair of friends staying as our Tony Hanmer has lived in Georgia since money and our time. We needed a cup- guests offered to help me unpack and 1999, in Svaneti since 2007, and been a board unit and a table, maybe with chairs. do the “some assembly” part; help which weekly writer for GT since early 2011. He I perused the furniture shops all clus- in the end I really needed. How many runs the “Svaneti Renaissance” Facebook tered on Rustaveli Street, near the rail- Germans, Armenians, Brits and Geor- group, now with nearly 1500 members, at way station. Plenty of kitchen cabinets, gians does it take to set up half a kitchen? www.facebook.com/groups/SvanetiRenais- but the set narrowed when I specifi ed One of each, as it turns out (the Georgian sance.

GEORGIA TODAY 12 CULTURE AUGUST 11 - 14, 2017 Batumi Music Fest: First Georgian Festival under UNESCO Patronage

two music pedagogues from Batumi and BY NINO GUGUNISHVILI Giorgi Korkadze from Tbilisi with whom we actively cooperate.” Elisso says. Apart from monetary prizes, which, ounded by famous Georgian according to Bolkvadze, will be quite Elisso Bolkvadze, who high, winners of the contest will hold a became UNESCO’s Artist for concert at TBC Gallery, supporter of the Peace in 2015, the Batumi Music master classes to be given to children Fest, member of the European during the Batumi Music Fest. FestivalsF Association (EFA), will kick off “TBC Bank has always been very sup- on September 2, running till September portive,” Bolkvadze says. 8 at the Batumi Music Center Concert Yet another novelty of the Batumi Music Hall. Fest this year is that, with fi nancial assis- In its fi fth year of existence, Batumi tance from the Ministry of Education Music Fest promises to be one of the and Science, an art camp is to be organ- major cultural events this autumn. ized, seeing almost 300 children from Back in 2013, when Elisso Bolkvadze all the regions of Georgia able to attend came up with the idea of creating a clas- master classes and trainings during the sical music festival, she thought its con- festival. cept would be somewhat similar to other “Imagine, almost 300 children coming musical festivals that already existed, to Batumi from all the regions. The Min- bringing international artists to Georgia. istry of Education and Science is fully But when she received the UNESCO covering their stay, in partnership with Artist for Peace status, she decided that the Batumi Music Festival, and while in with new responsibilities and functions Batumi these children will have two added as UNESCO Ambassador, she trainings and will attend a concert. They would change the focus of the Batumi are not musicians, though, and with the Music Fest. art camp like this one we attempt to raise “I knew that the Batumi Music Fest their awareness and I’m deeply grateful would be an excellent platform to pro- to Aleksandre Jejelava for supporting mote the ideas of cultural diplomacy and this initiative of mine. For me, this is the role of culture, and music in the peace something really important and big; I building process. For Batumi Art Fest, think it’s the best I can do for my coun- being under UNESCO patronage is both try, planting those tiny seeds in these prestigious and signifi cant,” she told children that will blossom some day in GEORGIA TODAY in an interview. the future,” Bolkvadze told us. “I decided to bring more of an educa- “It takes a lot of energy, time and effort tional focus to the festival, paying par- to be in charge of organizing such a mas- ticular attention to discovery, assistance sive event as Batumi Music Fest, and and the promotion of emerging new there were many challenges that needed musical talent,” she said. thinking through from the beginning. Although the festival has already hosted But it brings so much to me personally; a number of legendary , for Elisso the new encounters with extraordinary Bolkvadze, supporting those who are people, the knowledge. It’s inspiring to about to enter the scene is her number know you’re doing something important one priority. Add to that the fact that and valuable for your country which carrying UNESCO’s Artist for Peace brings you so much satisfaction. The status means she advocates UNESCO most important thing is that our festival themes and values at the festival, one of has huge potential for development in them being helping children from con- the future, and for keeping its word,” she fl ict zones and those affected by war. concluded. “Since we have the fi fth anniversary of The festival Batumi Music Fest is organ- the Batumi Music Fest this year, I decided ized with the fi nancial support of Min- to add another original theme to it, and istry of Culture of Georgia, and the Min- we’re going to have a contest, to be istry of Culture of Adjara. fi nanced by the international SOS Talent Elisso Bolkvadze also runs a charity Foundation, with its president Michael foundation ‘Lyra,’ supporting aspiring Sogny himself coming to the festival. It’s young pianists. not a huge contest; we just want to fi nd For outstanding contribution to the talented children of ages 7, 10 and 14 that development of culture and personal we could possibly support in their future commitment to cultural exchanges careers. The contestants will not be between and Georgia, Elisso judged by how they play, rather we’ll be Bolkvadze received the distinction of evaluating their potential, and Michel Chevalier des Arts et Lettres from the Sogny will be in the jury, together with French Republic. GEORGIA TODAY AUGUST 11 - 14, 2017 CULTURE 13 Time is Powerless to Heal Longing

With her fi rst exhibition at the gradu- she has unusual insights into the char- ther Skin, in Oxford and London. Anna BY GEORGE LALIASHVILI, ART CRITIC ate show at the Art Academy, this Geor- acter of her subjects. She seems to fi nd has precisely pointed to how suitably the gian artist clearly showed herself to have something interesting and unreachable subject carries the pride of his homeland. used the experience and become a highly in each individual, then depicts this on The unusual composition of “Eka’s he works of Anna Stein- gifted artist. The fi ve portraits that Anna the canvas. Portrait” has a particular effect on view- house-Kandelaki immedi- presented were remarkable. Her works Anna named her series of portraits for ers. This work reminded me of the pic- ately attracted my attention were successfully introduced to the wider the exhibition “Home Away From Home” ture by the popular photographer Irving for the qualities that a mod- public. and portrayed Georgians in London who Penn, “Human Being in the Corner,” ern artist needs in order to Nowadays, one can often hear that have been living and working far from except that the Georgian painter has fur- Tbe able to assert herself in the world of fi gurative art has exhausted its purpose. their homes for a long time, but who have ther intensifi ed the feeling of being stuck. art. Her works assured me that she has I disagree. Figurative painting is as inex- never lost spiritual touch with their his- In my opinion, this portrait perfectly not reached fi gurative painting as a pro- haustible a phenomenon as the soul and toric homeland. It is true that those expresses the main theme of Anna’s fession by chance and although her the inner world of a human being. For a people are physically very far from Geor- graduation theme, “Home Away From choosing to be an artist was delayed by sensitive and creative portrait artist, gia but the homeland is frequently pre- Home”. It depicts the drama of “Double twenty years, it seems to me to be a fi gurative art will always remain a con- sent in their thoughts. Absence” most powerfully – a feeling natural one. temporary and unexpired genre. At the Self-assertion and adaptation of an adult that is common for emigrants: being nei- Before becoming an artist, Anna dedi- same time, it is important for a fi gurative person in a foreign country is like the ther here nor there. The artist shows an Portrait of Eka Moniava cated her life to a radically different career portrait artist to have technical skills and re-planting of a grown tree in unfamiliar incomplete view of a window (reality as descendant of Nickoloz Kandelaki, a - banking, although creativity was always a precise visual memory. Anna Steinhouse- soil; it surely needs time to thrive again. seen by the model) and a framed land- famous Georgian portrait sculptor. I con- in her nature. As a result, some four years Kandelaki possesses both. In addition, But time is powerless to heal the longing scape of the Georgian countryside (a sidered it necessary to recall this, because ago, she made the decision to perma- being a deep thinker and an intellectual, that hangs above them like rain clouds. piece of homeland) not as a whole, but when we look at Anna’s work, we have nently quit her career in the City of Lon- That is the instant that Anna seeks when split into two. a feeling that they belong to a skillful don and to dedicate herself to fi gurative painting a portrait and that is why she I have also seen other portraits at Anna painter rather than to a beginner. It seems painting. achieves such impressive results when Kandelaki’s studio, which once again like she has never lost touch with art, London’s ample artistic scene has it is done. She captures it perfectly. assured me that she really has signifi cant despite those twenty years when she had undoubtedly contributed to Anna’s move “Teresa’s Portrait” attracts the attention abilities as a portraitist, and I am con- practically no connection to painting. towards her newly found passion. She of viewers not only due to its accuracy vinced that Anna will continue to grow She has been brave to return to the frequented London’s abundant galleries but also due to its artistic courage. Anna in this direction. However, I have also artistic calling, but she has revealed her- and museums, most of all enjoying the manages to organically link the language seen several other highly impressive self to be an intuitive portraitist whose exhibitions of modern artists. The bustle of music and painting to each other in landscapes. I would particularly single art is never boring. The portraits talk to of London’s artistic world can be encour- this work. Neat combinations of violet out her work “Spring in Caucasus”. I the viewer with infi nite frankness and aging, but also confusing for newcomers. and amethyst and the inclusion of the believe that with the artist’s evidently insight, about the mysterious beauty and For some, it creates the illusion of quick view of The Muse, a sculptural master- intuitive sense of nature, she should fur- strength of the human soul. They will success. There are numerous exhibitions piece by well-known Georgian artist ther develop a body of work of landscape surely always maintain urgency and rel- held in London, but there are still very Merab Berdzenishvili, highlighted with paintings. evance. few that truly move the viewer. a bright cobalt color in the right corner Georgian galleries used to have a very Anna Steinhouse-Kandelaki has a won- Anna became interested in and infl u- of the picture, creates a mysterious atmos- rich collection of portrait paintings from derful intention to create a gallery of enced by the works of various British phere where music is about to be born the 19th and 20th centuries, but nowadays Georgians working abroad, people who artists: Francis Bacon, Lucien Freud, out of the painting. there are only a few artists who are seri- are ambassadors of free will around the Frank Auerbach, David Hockney. She The views of the Metekhi Temple, ously working in this genre. It seems as world and who let the world know about started to study art at various London Vakhtang Gorgasali’s statue and Georgian if the line was cut, and this is a serious “the scanty but not small nation,” as Art Schools, where an immense knowl- ornaments perfectly fi t the portrait of loss for contemporary art in Georgia. Do George Leonidze called Georgia. Anna edge and experience has been accumu- Davit Gigauri, an outstanding young we expect this genre to lose its signifi - Steinhouse-Kandelaki’s portraits lead us lated and where any person seriously Georgian who has organized several cance and its revival not to be supported? to expect that she will fulfi ll this project interested in art can get guidance and events on Shota Rustaveli and his epic I hope not. . . and create a valuable artistic chronicle inspiration to develop their own work. Portrait of David Gigauri mediaeval poem, The Knight in the Pan- Anna Steinhouse-Kandelaki’s is the of her generation. GEORGIA TODAY 14 CULTURE AUGUST 11 - 14, 2017

WHAT’S ON IN TBILISI CINEMA RUSTAVELI CINEMA September 27 (2016) – The Blue Noses Group, Yury MUSIC Address: 5 Rustaveli Ave. September 22 (2017) Vassiliev, Alexandra Mitlyanskaya EXHIBITION STONE AGE GEORGIA AMIRANI CINEMA Telephone: 2 55 50 00 Oleg Kostyuk, Evgeny Umansky GEM FEST 2017 Address: 36 Kostava Str. www.kinoafi sha.ge (Russia), Hubert Czerepok Telephone: 2 99 99 55 May 18- November 18 (Poland), Elisha Flotser (Israel), July 14 – August 14 www.kinoafi sha.ge Every Wednesday ticket: 5 GEL EXHIBITION Mikhail Gulin (Belorussia), Carl https://gemfestival.com August 11-17 GEORGIAN COSTUME AND Michael von Hausswoldd (Sweden), Start time: 9:00 – 12:00 Every Wednesday ticket price: 5 GEL WEAPONRY OF 18TH-20TH Ana Riaboshenko (Georgia), Jacob Tickets: Opening Pass: 60 GEL, August 11-17 THE DARK TOWER CENTURIES Kirkegaard (Denmark), Ram Katzir 3-Day Pass: 120 GEL, Week Multi Pass: 170 GEL, Multi Pass: 500 GEL, (Info Above) (Israel, Netherlands). VIP Pass 2000 GEL. THE DARK TOWER Start time: 19:00, 22:10 MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS GEM Fest is a month-long Directed by Nikolaj Arcel Ticket: 10-14 GEL Address: 1 Gudiashvili Str. MUSEUM OF SOVIET electronic music festival. Blazing a Cast: Katheryn Winnick, Matthew Telephone: 299 99 09 OCCUPATION new trail within sight of the Black McConaughey, Idris Elba Address: 4 Rustaveli Ave. VALERIAN AND THE CITY OF A Sea, some of the world's biggest Genre: Action, Adventure, March 6 – August 30 Telephone: 2 99 80 22, 2 93 48 21 THOUSAND PLANETS house, techno and trance DJs make FantasyAction, Adventure, Fa EXHIBITION www.museum.ge (Info Above) this a stand-out summer party. Language: Russian MASTERPIECES FROM THE Start time: 17:00, 20:10 Now into its third year, GEM Start time: 19:00, 22:10 MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS PERMANENT EXHIBITION Ticket: 10-14 GEL Fest 2017 offers more than 500 Ticket: 10-14 GEL COLLECTION Discover the State's personal fi les artists will perform on 9 stages The exhibition includes works by of "subversive" Georgian public ALL EYEZ ON ME alongside over 100 fun, sports and VALERIAN AND THE CITY OF A Bernardo Daddi, Lucas Cranach fi gures, orders to shoot or exile, and Directed by Benny Boom entertainment activities. THOUSAND PLANETS (Elder), Guido Reni, Jan Steen, other artifacts representing Soviet- Cast: Demetrius Shipp Jr., Danai Venue: Anaklia Directed by Luc Besson Jacob Van Ruisdael, Auguste Rodin, era cultural and political repression Gurira, Kat Graham Cast: Dane DeHaan, Cara Pablo Picasso, Vassily Kandinski; in Georgia. August 11 Genre: Biography, Drama, Music Delevingne, Clive Owen Masterpieces by Niko 31337 (live), ALEXANDER POPOV, Language: Russian Genre: Action, Adventure, Sci- Pirosmanashvili, Lado Gudiashvili SVANETI MUSEUM OF BELLA SARRIS, DASTIA, DUB Start time: 22:35 FiAdventure, Fa and David Kakabadze. HISTORY AND TEMPTATION, FERNANDO Ticket: 13-14 GEL Language: Russian ETHNOGRAPHY COSTANTINI, FRANCESCA Start time: 17:00, 20:10 MUSEUM IOSEB GRISHASHVILI Address: 7 A. Ioseliani Str., Mestia LOMBARDO, GIO SHENGELIA, Ticket: 10-14 GEL TBILISI HISTORY MUSEUM GOING DEEPER, ISAbella, NIKA - KARVASLA July 30 – September 10 J, NUERA, NUJI, PASHA, PIERRE, ANNABELLE: CREATION GEORGIAN NATIONAL Address: 8 Sioni St. Georgian National Museum RADAR, SEVDA, VLADILEN Directed by David F. Sandberg MUSEUM SIMON JANASHIA Telephone: 2 98 22 81 and Project ArtBeat present Start time: 09:00 Cast: Alicia Vela-Bailey, Miranda MUSEUM HERE Ticket: 100 GEL Otto, Stephanie Sigman Address: 4 Rustaveli Ave. July 5 - September 11 A solo exhibition Genre: Horror, Mystery, Thriller, Fa Telephone: 2 99 80 22, 2 93 48 21 August 12 EXHIBITION OF DAVID of New York based Language: Russian www.museum.ge BORIS BREJCHA SULAKAURI'S ARTWORKS Georgian artist Start time: 19:00, 22:45 Line Up: The exhibition features up to 100 LEVAN MINDIASHVILI Ticket: 10-14 GEL DESNA, BORIS BREJCHA, SPACE PERMANENT EXHIBITION: works by David Sulakauri and a Resident DJs, GEORGIAN ARCHAEOLOGY catalog of his artworks. This is GALLERY THE BEGUILED JOACHIM AKA CURTIS JACOBS, FROM 8TH MILLENNIUM B.C. the fi rst wide-scale exhibition of Directed by Sofi a Coppola SOFIA, RODINA TO THE 4TH CENTURY A.D THE NATIONAL GALLERY Cast: Nicole Kidman, Kirsten the author dedicated to his 65th Start time: 09:00 Dunst, Elle Fanning anniversary. Address: 11 Rustaveli Ave. Ticket: 100 GEL EXHIBITION OF GEORGIAN Genre: Drama www.museum.ge WEAPONRY Language: Russian July 11 – August 20 Telephone: 215 73 00 August 13 Start time: 17:00, 22:15 EXHIBITION FIELD OF FLOWERS PAUL KALKBRENNER NUMISMATIC TREASURY Ticket: 10-14 GEL The name "Field of Flowers" came June 8 – September 11 Line Up: The exhibition showcases money from the eponymous poem Campo EXHIBITION CONSTELLATION GIO SHENGELIA, RECONDITE, DUNKIRK circulation on the territory of di Fiori by Czesław Miłosz, an Artworks by Chinese contemporary PAUL KALKBRENNER, FJAAK, Directed by Christopher Nolan Georgia from the 6th century BC. honorary citizen of Kedainiai. He artists- Ai Weiwei, Hu Xiaoyuan, SPACE Resident DJs, HUBBLE, Cast: Tom Hardy, Cillian Murphy, to 1834. wrote it in 1943 in during Li Shurui, Liu Wei, Lu Pingyuan, O.BEE, ANDREA FERLIN, TOPPER Kenneth Branagh the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising. Lu Shanchuan, Ma Qiusha, Wang Start time: 09:00 Genre: Action, Drama, History THE TESTAMENT OF DAVID The exhibition showcases Guangle, Wang Sishun, Wang Ticket: 100 GEL Language: Russian THE BUILDER AND NEW artworks by 14 artists from Yuyang, Xie Molin, Xu Qu, Xu Start time: 17:00, 19:30, 22:00 EXHIBITS OF THE MEDIEVAL different countries: Sergey Zhen, Yan Xing, Zhang Ding, Zhang August 14 Ticket: 10-14 GEL TREASURY Bratkov (Ukraine), Valery Orlov, Zhenyu, Zhao Yao and Zhao Zhao. ANDREA FERLIN, BACHO, COBERT, GIO SHENGELIA, HUBBLE, O.BEE, PASHA, SEVDA, SOFIA RODINA, TOMMA, TOPPER Start time: 09:00 Ticket: 100 GEL

BLACK SEA ARENA Address: Tsikhisdziri, Adjara

August 15 Black Sea Arena and Check in Georgia, Bravo Records and Altervision Group present: IRAKLI CHARKVIANI HISTORY Participants: Stefane, Oto Nemsadze, Mariko Lezhava, Nina Sublati, Levan Maspindzelashvili, Gvantsa Japaridze, Maia Darsmelidze, Soft Eject, Green Room, New One, Loudspeakers, Robi Kukhianidze and Outsider, Erekle Deisadze & Beqa Kundalini Start time: 20:00 Ticket: 10-60 GEL

MUSIC FESTIVAL SAIRME 2017 Address: Resort Sairme

August 12 ENSEMBLE IALONI Start time: 17:00 Ticket: From 80 GEL GEORGIA TODAY AUGUST 11 - 14, 2017 CULTURE 15 Honorary Citizens of Tbilisi: Marika Kvaliashvili Here, in my home town, I see the trees that grew INTERVIEW BY MAKA LOMADZE with me.

WHAT DOES BEING AN HONORARY amous composer Marika Kvaliashvili, CITIZEN OF TBILISI MEAN TO YOU? has, together with many other awards, I would say that all awards are good when you don’t been awarded the title of Honorary Cit- demand anything yourself. I’m thankful. However, izen of Tbilisi. She is a granddaughter of the love of ordinary people, which I constantly get the fi rst Georgian female bandmaster from the street, is the most precious gift of all. andF singer Maro Tarkhnishvili, and aunt of famous Being an Honorary Citizen of Tbilisi fi lls me with variety singer Eka Kvaliashvili. extra power and responsibility. They give you a symbolic key as if enabling you to open the main WHO IS MARIKA KVALIASHVILI? gate of your native city. It was some 10 years ago A Georgian composer and great and I was really shy. It was an confi dante of nature. I often talk extremely happy occasion and to nature. a great honor. Normally, those who receive this award are not YOU WALK IN THE young any more. When I go to FOOTSTEPS OF YOUR the regions, I still feel very fi rm GRANDMOTHER. WAS soil under my feet, as people, SHE THE MAIN FIGURE regardless of their age, greet me IN YOUR CREATIVE LIFE? with love. I belong to the whole Yes. Her repertoire contained of Georgia, as much as Tbilisi around 500 folk songs. Thanks belongs to all our regions. to my family, I was saturated with music from early childhood. SO, WHAT DOES IT MEAN She was the best teacher in life, TO BE A TBILISIAN? Jazz Diaries: too, being a very strong and wise Had I been born in some remote woman. I owe her my sense of village, I would still have to bear responsibility to everything. the grace of my native place and When you’re raised in such a do good things for it, trying my family, you try your best to best to give hope to others. I was resemble your ancestors. born in Tbilisi, however, it does not mean that I'm better than The Black Sea NATIVE INSPIRATION DOMINATES those who were not born in the capital. Everyone YOUR CREATIVITY… is a child of certain towns or villages, suiting their Yes. I may begin in minor but I always end up in homelands, if only he/she appreciates them thor- major, as hope never dies. I have dedicated odes oughly. to all parts of Georgia and this is how I express my love for my country. WHAT ARE THE SOUNDS AND COLORS Jazz Fest 2017 IN WHICH YOU PERCEIVE TBILISI? YOU HAVE ALWAYS LIVED IN Bright colors and major notes. restored, the three previously divided ticket spaces REVIEW BY INGA MUMLADZE TBILISI. HOW HAS IT CHANGED? were united, there was not as much noise, you I was born and have lived in Tbilisi all my life. No WHAT CAN WE SHOW TOURISTS APART could actually move and dance if you wanted so, matter how much it changes, it remains the same FROM OUR BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPE? and you could even hear the music! All of this made for me because I'm deeply in love with it. I like all Our traditions of Georgian supra and Tamada ugust 2017. Apparently, that’s how this arguably the best day at the Black Sea Jazz Fest. its old and contemporary districts. The old districts (toastmaster). Hrow we greet guests and what kind diaries start. Eagerly awaiting the At the end it rained, which was fi ne with us as it take me back to my childhood and youth, while the of hosts we are. Of course, our dishes and the dec- Black Sea Jazz Festival. I waited so was a hot evening again and there were some kind new parts connect me with the future. I look with oration of our supras, too. We should get them long for this! Even spent my hard- people from the Heineken stand who gave out hope towards the future and am always happy with acquainted with the celebration tradition of two earned cash (that is, my boyfriend’s raincoats for free. I got one too! Yay for freebies! everything that's done for the good of Georgia. Of major holidays of ours: Easter and New Year, later Amoney) on tickets to Jamiroquai. The entrances Defi nitely the best day. course, the old part of the city should be conserved on, demonstrating our culture, which is most val- were divided into three: Gold, Silver and… not On the third day, Joss Stone- a beautiful woman as it embodies the primary image of Tbilisi. The uable. Our folklore, music and dance, is a pattern Bronze, but VIP. The VIP was designed for the with a vibrant, clear voice. It was raining again, and new areas are good only if they're better than the to the rest of the world. I have attended a lot of chosen ones: you could go to the concert straight it was rather in character as Joss’s is the music best old ones. The old parts shouldn't be changed much, symposiums, but our folk is peerless. I am not from club Take Five. And considering that the Gold listened to while snuggled up on a sofa with your as they are important not only for us but also for biased in this case as I respect all other valuable Pass cost 1000 GEL and the silver one 400, the VIP loved one, perhaps with a glass of wine in hand. foreigners to help them better understand us. cultures. But we are champions in folklore. probably cost a small fortune. Or maybe it was Not exactly dancing material, but I still made an invitation-only? effort got my feet moving to two of her songs. One, YOU TALK SO FERVENTLY ABOUT WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS There were plenty of foreigners around, which she said, was written by her brother, who “had TBILISI. DO YOU EVER LEAVE IT? FOR THE FUTURE? is a good thing and tells you how ignorant some much better taste in music,” whereas Joss herself, For 10 days, maximum. I love Tbilisi, my district If I had a chance, I’d like to arrange a creative soi- people can be when they say concerts and festivals turns out, was “all about the Spice Girls”. Well, that and house, and miss them even after two days. ree where my odes to Georgia will be performed. are a waste of public spending. These people, right song was clearly my favorite, so I’m giving credit there, were spending their money in Georgia, on where its due. things from cocktails to a hearty meal, and even I, One thing I have to say is how much she talked with my rather limited grasp of economics, can with the audience. Not saying it’s a bad or a good understand that that’s a good thing. thing, but in the end, she spent half of her concert Sweltering hot. At about half past nine, the show talking to us. A bit too much communicating and began. What caught my ear from the very start was reaching out for my liking, but then again, people that the acoustics were quite mediocre, and all the liked it and I have a suspicion that many would noise and clearly too many people squeezed into have left earlier if not for her talking… in Georgian. the tiny space didn’t help, either. As far as I’m con- Well, trying to – every once in while she’d go over cerned, the performance was solid, though I couldn’t to the Georgian soundman and ask him how to say say that Jay put his everything out there. He came, this or that in Georgian. Then she’d come back to he sang, and he left. Not exactly the ecstatic per- the center of the stage, having forgotten half of it. formances you hear people raving about. Might Very funny! She told us “Mikvarkhar” and “Mad- have something to do with his recent health prob- loba” and all the nice things. All positive energy, lems, but still, it was way better and way more that Joss. Oh, and how could I forget? At the end, enjoyable than most of what we get to listen to live she brought out sunfl owers (not seeds, actual sun- during summer. Not that I’m comparing Jay to the fl owers) and threw them to the public! How cool city marshrutka repertoire, of course. is that? The next day saw De La Soul as the star perform- And that about concludes my jazz diaries. I was ers, and despite not being a fan of them before, I satisfi ed. Happy, even, considering the heat, rain, loved every minute of it. Great enthusiasm! Great noise and whatnot. Will go again next year, for sure. attitude! With Jamiroquai gone and social justice If you enjoy life and music, you should, too!

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