BRUNO GIACOSA

Producer profile Bruno Giacosa This eminent Barolo producer has been around the block more than once since starting in wine 68 years ago. Kerin O’Keefe pays the great man a visit and hears how he has overcome the formidable challenges of recent years, including illness and the firing and re-hiring of his winemaker

AT FIRST GLANCE, things appear remarkably wanted to own. The main object of his desire? unchanged at Bruno Giacosa’s winery during my Giacosa Falletto. Located in the venerable village of recent visit. It is almost as if the daunting Serralunga, perhaps the most prestigious of all the challenges that the legendary Barolo and at a glance Barolo villages, Falletto has perfect southwest Barbaresco producer has faced over the past five Vineyards exposure that allows the grapes to mature slowly years had never happened. Giacosa, one of Langhe’s Serralunga (Barolo): 10ha but fully, while its calcareous soil adds complexity trailblazing winemakers and an undisputed expert La Morra (Barolo): 7ha and structure. ‘I’d been buying grapes from Falletto on the area’s top sites, showed off the latest Barbaresco: 4ha. since 1967 and had always wanted to buy it,’ says vintages and discussed the past, present and future Wines made from Giacosa. ‘In 1982, I finally realised my dream.’ In of this iconic estate alongside daughter Bruna and estate grapes are made 1996, he went on to acquire a parcel of land on the winemaker Dante Scaglione. under the Azienda top of the notable Asili hillside in Barbaresco. Giacosa, now 82, began his illustrious career at Agricola Falletto di Today he admits that this is the vineyard closest to the age of 14, when he started working for his Bruno Giacosa label. his heart. ‘No other vineyard in Langhe yields a father’s grape-buying and winemaking estate. The Other wines are made bouquet as elegant, or possesses such finesse and young Giacosa soon gained renown for what many under the Casa Vinicola balance as Asili,’ says the veteran, who attributes describe as his golden palate, and he went on to Bruno Giacosa label the vineyard’s performance to its sandy, almost ‘Bruno Giacosa and his create Barolos and Barbarescos of extraordinary from grapes sourced silty soil, full southern exposure and high altitude. complexity from renowned vineyards, while from a network of Difficult times eponymous estate have faced discovering lesser-known sites that he would later trusted growers. make famous. Today, Giacosa’s acclaimed bottlings More recently, however, Bruno Giacosa and his and overcome obstacles that read like a wish list for wine connoisseurs, and Estate plantings eponymously named estate have faced and include some of the most hallowed names in Nebbiolo, Barbera and overcome obstacles that would have likely beaten would have likely beaten Piedmont, such as Falletto and Le Rocche del Dolcetto most other producers. The troubles all stem back to Falletto in Barolo, and Asili and Santo Stefano in Giacosa’s devastating stroke, in 2006, which kept most other producers’ Barbaresco. His red-label Riserva bottlings – made Wines him away from the cellars for an extended period only in the best years – are among the most sought Barolo, Barbaresco, while he recovered. His absence generated a series after wines in the world. Nebbiolo d’Alba, of rumours regarding the future of the estate, Giacosa was one of the first Italian winemakers Barbera, Dolcetto, which reached fever pitch in 2009 when Giacosa to fully understand the importance of Langhe’s Arneis, Spumante declassified the 2006 vintage – widely considered vineyards and, in 1967, he began bottling the by other local winemakers as an outstanding year. famous hillside vineyard yields separately. Thanks Total annual Thankfully for Barolo and Barbaresco lovers, the Main image: legendary Barolo and Barbaresco producer to decades of experience as one of Langhe’s production naysayers and sceptics were proved wrong and Bruno Giacosa with daughter Bruna and winemaker foremost grape buyers and winemakers, Giacosa 400,000 bottles Giacosa continues to produce some of the most Dante Scaglione (both also pictured top left) decided years ahead of time which properties he coveted wines coming out of Italy. ➢

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‘For a while, none of us could put our finger on what was wrong, but we all felt that something was

missing. It was Dante’ Bruna Giacosa

Giacosa has made his way back to work where, despite the lingering effects of his stroke, he again spends mornings tasting and reviewing the wines during their various stages of evolution. But during his long convalescence, all eyes had turned to the then in-house winemaker, Scaglione, who had been working closely by Giacosa’s side since 1992 – the Six of Giacosa’s best first assistant he ever hired. By 2008, Scaglione was feeling the effects of the immense pressure placed Casa Vinicola Bruno Giacosa, on him. Giacosa, with his daughter Bruna, realised Spumante Extra Brut 2005 HHHH 17pts/20 that it was time to part ways. ‘We never doubted £22.78 Armit Dante’s extraordinary winemaking capabilities or Bright and lively, with enticing ripe fruit flavours his passion for our wines but, without Bruno’s and hints of almond and biscuits. Long, dry finish. constant presence, we lost the ability to Above: Bruno Giacosa’s Drink: 2011–2013. Alc: 13% communicate with each other,’ explains Bruna. daughter Bruna is taking an increasingly high profile Casa Vinicola Bruno Giacosa, Differences & reconciliation role at the estate, and Spumante Extra Brut Rosé 2008 For his part, Scaglione agrees that things didn’t run oversaw the firing and HHHH 17.5 as smoothly as they could have in the aftermath of re-hiring of winemaker £27.78 Armit, Harvey Nichols Giacosa’s stroke. ‘I worked alongside Bruno for 16 Dante Scaglione. Lovely floral aromas and cherry-berry years and, while I carried out major responsibilities, I flavours, with a hint of pastry. Fresh and was always very deferential to Bruno. I had what can Right: Giacosa is assisted crisp, with elegant mousse and great only be described as a real “Italian employee” by Scaglione, daughter length. Drink: 2011–2015. Alc: 13% attitude, and I wasn’t comfortable when I suddenly Bruna and cellarmaster found myself in charge.’ After the Giacosas Francesco Versio (far right) Casa Vinicola Bruno Giacosa, reluctantly let Scaglione go in March 2008, they Roero Arneis 2010 HHH 16 hired local oenologist Giorgio Lavagna, then from two or three times a week up to every day, £21.17 Armit, Harvey Nichols, Noel Young winemaker at the large Batasiolo winery, to replace whenever needed, especially during the crucial Fresh floral and white peach aromas that carry over

by Clay McLachlan/claypix.comClayby him. Just three years later, the Giacosas backtracked. periods, such as fermentation,’ says Scaglione. He onto the palate alongside energising minerality. In May of this year, they dismissed Lavagna and will also help groom Francesco Versio, the Drink: 2011–2013. Alc: 12.5% asked Scaglione to return to the estate, much to the enthusiastic young cellarmaster Giacosa hired last Decanter joy of Giacosa’s long-time fans. year, who had already completed an internship Azienda Agricola Faletto di Bruno Giacosa, ‘Giorgio is a very good winemaker,’ says Bruna. with the estate in 2005 before finishing his Falletto, Barolo 2007 HHHHH 19 ‘The only problem was that he isn’t Dante. For a oenology studies. £140.17–£142 Armit, Handford, Justerini & Brooks, Noel while, none of us could put our finger on what was Young, Selfridges, Uncorked, Woodwinters wrong, but we all felt that something was missing. It Courting controversy Rose, iris and leather nose. Wild cherry and mineral was Dante – and all he brought both to our wines In 2009, Giacosa created uproar by announcing ‘There were so some of the strictest quality standards in all of Kerin O’Keefe is a palate, edgy acidity and silky tannins. Compelling and to the morale of the people working here,’ that he would not be bottling his 2006 Barolos and Italian winemaking – not to mention more than 65 freelance wine writer power and depth. Drink: 2012–2022. Alc: 14.5% confides Bruna. After consulting with her father, Barbarescos. Despite the ensuing outcry, Giacosa many factors vintages under his belt – it is very difficult to argue based in Italy and the she boldly called up her former in-house has not backed down and stands by his decision not with his judgment. author of a forthcoming Azienda Agricola Faletto di Bruno Giacosa, winemaker, now a thriving consultant to various to release his coveted wines that year, and to sell affecting In the vineyards, Giacosa uses the least amount book on Brunello di Asili, Barbaresco 2008 HHHH 18 estates, and asked how he would feel about coming them off in bulk instead. ‘The 2006 growing season of chemicals possible and keeps yields low, to Montalcino (University £106.17 Armit, Justerini & Brooks, Noel Young, back. Happily, he jumped at the opportunity. was unbalanced, and this is reflected in the wines. 2006. Added naturally increase concentration. Meanwhile, in of California Press) Roberson, Selfridges, Woodwinters ‘I was overjoyed,’ says Scaglione. ‘I always felt Although it wasn’t at the level of the dismal 1992s the cellars, he is decidedly hands-off, preferring to Intense perfume of rose, violet, sandalwood and that my relationship and my work with Bruno or 2002s, which I also did not bottle, I don’t together, I let perfect grapes express themselves with as little cedar. Elegant raspberry and mineral flavours. Silky Giacosa wasn’t over, so I said yes immediately.’ consider 2006 to be an exceptional vintage,’ states intervention as possible. He then advocates slow tannins. Drink: 2011–2018. Alc: 14.5% Buoyed by a new level of confidence, thanks to his Giacosa. He concedes that 2006 could have yielded think my ageing, in large casks made of untoasted French recent experience as an outside mentor guiding a good wines at best, but adds that ‘“good” is simply oak. The resulting wines express the hallmark Casa Vinicola Bruno Giacosa, select group of estates – an activity he evidently not good enough’. father preferred combination of floral aromas, and concentrated Nebbiolo d’Alba 2009 HHHH 17 plans on continuing with – Scaglione was more As Bruna points out, 2006 was an incredibly wild cherry and mineral flavours. £20.17 Armit, Handford, Noel Young, Sampler, than ready to pick up where he left off. difficult year on many other levels for her father. to forget 2006, ‘Bruno and Dante taught me that the greatest Clay McLachlan was the Uncorked, Vagabond Wines, Wright Wine Co Things are somewhat different this time around, ‘There were so many factors affecting 2006 overall. wines have the least intervention from their winner of The Artistry Of Ripe strawberry, mineral and smoke though. Rather than operating as the in-house Added together, I think my father understandably and decided winemakers. And this is the most difficult road to Wine Award at the Louis notes wrapped up in silky tannins. winemaking assistant to Giacosa, he will be preferred to forget 2006, and decided not to bottle follow as a winemaker, because you need perfect Roederer International Drink: 2011–2014. Alc: 14% collaborating on an external basis. He stresses that it.’ Despite the resulting furore, if one considers the not to bottle it’ grapes from the best vineyards, and loads of Wine Writers’ Awards he will be at the cellars regularly and remains at obvious and significant economic sacrifice of such Bruna Giacosa patience,’ says Versio. To which Giacosa flashes one 2011 for his portrait For full details of UK stockists, see p108

Photographs:Bruno andBruna Giacosa, DanteScaglione andFrancesco Versiophotographedwere Giacosa’s exclusively for complete disposal. ‘I’ll be there anywhere a drastic decision, and Giacosa’s reputation for of his rare smiles. D photographs in Decanter

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