DOCSLIB.ORG

Fit for Kings BAROLO, the Legendary Italian Grape of Yore, IS RIPE for ASIAN ROYALTY, WRITES JAMES SUCKLING

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Fit for Kings BAROLO, the Legendary Italian Grape of Yore, IS RIPE for ASIAN ROYALTY, WRITES JAMES SUCKLING Fit for Kings BAROLO, THE LEGENDARY ITALIAN GRAPE OF YORE, IS RIPE FOR ASIAN ROYALTY, WRITES JAMES SUCKLING taly’s great grape, barolo, has long been called the “king of wines and the wine of kings.” But the structured red still remains relatively undiscovered in most of Asia. “It’s still hard to convince most fine-wine lovers in Asia about Barolo, even though our region is very much like Burgundy with its mostly small vineyard holdings and Ifamily-owned wineries,” says Pio Boffa, the owner of Pio Cesare, one of the top names in Barolo. Boffa adds that most of the top wines are made in limited quantities – as little as a few hundred cases. Indeed, Barolo tastes like red Burgundy of Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin, in many ways. It has a lighter colour than considered two of the great wine towns in most other reds, a delicate and complex fruit the region; Barolo has its top villages as well, character, and bright and lively acidity. The including La Morra, Serralunga, Monforte d’Alba big difference is that the grape of Barolo, and Barolo itself. Furthermore, each village, Nebbiolo, is much more tannic compared to whether in Barolo or Burgundy, has its own top Burgundy’s pinot noir. Yet, better viticulture and vineyard sites. The French have codified this into winemaking in Barolo has produced reds with an appellation system, so grand crus such as La riper and softer tannins than in the past. Romanée in Vosne-Romanée and Chambertin in Paolo Damilano, whose family makes excellent Gevrey-Champertin are ranked among the best Barolos under its namesake, agrees. “We make vineyards in the area. Barolo has no official rating much more friendly wines than we did 20 system, but vineyards such as Brunate near La or 30 years ago. Our Barolos are much more Morra and Cannubi in Barolo have long been approachable and drinkable when young,” he considered the best in the region for centuries. sovereign sauce says. Damilano is the biggest producer in what is Understanding the vineyards of Barolo is an from left arguably the area’s top vineyard site, Cannubi. important way to better appreciate the wines, Barolos are The parallels between Barolo and Burgundy just like Burgundy. But it can be overwhelming. increasingly are numerous. For example, the importance of One vineyard may have numerous wineries and giving Burgundies villages and single vineyards. Most top Barolos growers as owners. For instance, the vineyard of a run for their money; the estate carry single-vineyard designations on their labels, Cannubi has almost two dozen individual grape of Poderi Aldo such as Brunate or Cannubi, and each area has its growers, and almost as many different wine Conterno best vineyards. Think of the Burgundy villages producers using the name. Granted, nothing hong kong tatler 62 november 2012 hong kong tatler 63 november 2012 Barolo makers. “We have had so many excellent Older vintages to keep an eye out vintages after the very difficult early 1990s.” for are 1978, 1982, 1985, 1989 and I’m a fan of warmer vintages that produce 1990. These show how Barolo ages rounder textured and richer Barolos; these years wonderfully and becomes closer include 1997, 2000 and 2007. I also enjoy sunny, to great Burgundy as it matures. fresh and late grape-growing seasons that make However, be careful with even older for more balanced wines. These vintages include vintages, as many ancient bottles of 1996, 1998 and 2008. Some Barolo connoisseurs Barolo have not been stored properly, is as complex as Burgundy for this (with such and wine producers themselves like colder, more particularly those under the Gaja and fine vines 2005 aldo conterno barolo from left granbussia Like tasting a young appellations as Clos de Vougeot including almost tannic years such as 1999 and 2006, but they need Giacomo Conterno labels. Nonetheless, I have The rolling Romanée-Conti. Sexy and titillating, 70 different owners), but Barolo has similar more bottle age to soften and become drinkable. drunk amazing old bottles of Giacomo Conterno vineyards of with fabulous flavours of roses, complexity that takes some time to understand. “Barolo has had so many excellent vintages in Montfortino Riserva from the 1950s and ’60s. Poderi Luigi rose water, light vanilla bean, When I buy Barolo, I first focus on producers the last 15 years that it’s almost a problem,” admits The top names for collectors and investors in Einaudi; top ripe strawberries and flowers. with a long reputation for making top wines. Matteo Einaudi of Luigi Einaudi, whose Cannubi Barolos are Bruno Giacosa, Giacomo Conterno, barrels at Bruno Extremely complex. This is made Giacosa; Poderi from three vineyards (in Bussia of I focus on their entry-level Barolos, which are Barolo is top glass. “But it just means that it’s Roberto Voerzio, Bartolo Mascarello and Aldo Luigi Einaudi’s Cicala, Colonello and Romirasco), usually blends of wines from different vineyards, much easier for consumers to find great Barolo.” Conterno. These are the wines that attract winery with a selection of the oldest vines. and then I consider a single-vineyard Barolo. The vintages I’m currently enjoying the most the most attention in sales, whether in Hong Small production. 100 points Excellent wineries to consider that are readily are 1996, 1997, 1998 and 2000. These wines are Kong or New York. In fact, the US market is an 2007 bruno giacosa barolo le available in Asia are Bruno Giacosa, Ceretto, Pio now showing the complexity of flavours I expect excellent source outside Italy for these wines. rocche del falletto riserva This is a phenomenal red from the Cesare, Paolo Scavino, Luciano Sandrone, Giacomo in a great Barolo, with a wide array of flavours The only question that remains to be answered master of Barolo. Clearly perfect, Conterno, Aldo Conterno and Roberto Voerzio. including tar, rose petals, liquorice and dark fruits. for Barolo is how long it will take for the Asian with layers of subtle fruit and spices, Gaja is also a great producer of reds from Some even give a white truffle character. This market to eclipse the US. When will Asia be and hints of chocolate. Full and very the area of Barolo, but the winery labels its best underlines how Barolos need six to 12 years of drinking Italy’s king of wine just like it has with long; it builds on the palate and keeps wines under the appellation of Langhe doc and bottle age to come into their own for drinking. France’s great Burgundies? going. Hazelnut and dark fruits; very fresh and bright. Will be available in not Barolo. His two top wines from the area are January 2013. 100 points Conteisa and Sperss. The latter is in the vineyard 2008 ceretto barolo bricco area of Cerequio and the former near Le Rocche. On December 4 and 5, Hong Kong wine collectors and trade members. Then, will be served, including the 2007 Bruno rocche bricco rocche This year, I tasted over 200 recently released Tatler and yours truly will be presenting December 5 focuses on a mouth-watering Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto, the Best-ever from this vineyard? Ripe complex and subtle. Great now; Barolos in blind tastings in Italy and discovered the Great Wines of Italy wine-tasting multi-course Chinese dinner, prepared by 2005 Aldo Conterno Barolo Granbussia, plum, almost prune, with bright even better in 2017. 98 points dozens of superb wines. I rated two a perfect extravaganza at the Island Shangri-La, Michelin-starred Summer Palace’s chef Ip the 2006 Casanova di Neri Brunello cherries and dried flowers. Full 2005 giacomo conterno 100 points – the 2005 Aldo Conterno Barolo Hong Kong. As the biggest premium Chi-cheung. The dinner aims to prove Cerretalto, and the 2006 Valdicava bodied, with powerful yet refined barolo monfortino riserva Granbussia Riserva and the 2007 Bruno Giacosa Italian wine event ever held in Asia, nearly how great Cantonese cuisine pairs with Madonna del Piano Riserva. Plus, dozens tannins. This is very muscular, yet Incredibly polished Monfortino. 100 of the best wineries from Italy will the best wines of Italy. of other top-scoring wines will be poured very fine. Better in 2016. 98 points The tannins caress your palate. Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto Riserva. Both wines pour their highest-rated wines – all Some of the top producers attending during the tasting and dinner. 2008 gaja langhe conteisa Aromas of marzipan and dark fruits, show the amazing finesse and elegance that a selected by me. Owners or winemakers the event include Antinori, Aldo Conterno, The renaissance of premium Italian Super-refined. Aromas of plums with orange peel and cedar. Dried great young Barolo can have, and at the same time from each estate will serve the wines, and Bruno Giacosa, Casanova di Neri, Ceretto, wine is happening now in Hong Kong. and berries with freshly cut flowers fruits, and extremely floral as well. they show serious structure to assure longevity. all bottles are being shipped directly from Frescobaldi, Le Macchiole, Luce, Il Borro, Never before has Italy made so many and orange peel. Full-bodied, with a Full-bodied, with super-fine tannins Buying the best vintages in Barolo is less the wineries’ cellars. Ornellaia, Paolo Scavino, Petrolo, Pio great wines in so many different regions. very focused palate and super-fine and a great elegance. You can drink Things kick off with an exclusive grand Cesare, Poggio Antico, Sette Ponti, Tenuta Don’t miss this historic event. tannins. It goes on for minutes with now, but will age for a long time.
Load more

Recommended publications
  • 2019 Roero Arneis Docg
    One of the legendary winemakers of the world, Bruno Giacosa crafted the most prestigious single-vineyard Barolo and Barbaresco wines during a career that spanned nearly eight decades. He joined the family business at the age of 15, representing the third generation of his Langhe winemaking family. Giacosa’s unfailing pursuit of perfection, his unrivaled palate and his intimate knowledge of vineyards in the Langhe quickly drew recognition and helped establish Piedmont as a leading wine region. In 1980, Giacosa began to acquire prime parcels in Serralunga d’Alba, La Morra and Barbaresco to produce wines that are rightly regarded as the finest expressions of Nebbiolo. His legacy rests with daughter Bruna, who continues to uphold her father’s winemaking philosophy to respect traditional techniques while using the best of modern technology. The goal is for each distinguished site to produce articulate, unique wines. 2019 ROERO ARNEIS DOCG Grape variety: Arneis Vineyards: Select vineyards in the villages of Vezza d’Alba, Monteu Roero, Santo Stefano Roero, Canale, Montà d’Alba Age of vines: 19-26 years Yield: 70 hL/ha Vinification: Stainless steel vats Length of fermentation: 25-30 days Malolactic fermentation: not developed Refinement: 4 months in stainless steel vats + 1 month in bottle Bottling: February 2020 Alcohol: 13.5% vol. Total acidity: 5.10 g/L pH: 3.30 Total extract: 22.5 g/L Sensory analysis: Intense straw colored with greenish glints. The nose presents lemon, pineapple, peach and apricot notes with floral hints. On the palate, it is fresh, full-bodied, with mineral notes and a persistent finish.
    [Show full text]
  • WINE LIST Tangent, Sauvignon Blanc, 2017 8 32 80 Edna Valley, California Bosco Del Merlo ‘Turranio,’ Sauv
    WHITES 5OZ /25OZ /64OZ B WINE LIST Tangent, Sauvignon Blanc, 2017 8 32 80 Edna Valley, California Bosco del Merlo ‘Turranio,’ Sauv. Blanc, 2017 12 48 Friuli, Italy Miner, Sauvignon Blanc, 2017 55 SPARKLING / CHAMPAGNE / SPARKLING ROSÉ Napa Valley, California 5OZ /25OZ /64OZ B Domaine Bonnard, Sancerre, 2017 52 Zardetto, Prosecco Brut, nv 7 28 70 Loire Valley, France Valdobbiadene, Italy Lucien Crochet, le Croix du Roy, 2017 95 Santome, Extra Dry Prosecco, nv 36 Loire Valley, France Veneta, Italy Riff, Pinot Grigio, 2017 9 36 Barone Pizzini, Brut Animante, nv 70 Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy Lombardy, Italy Fantinel, Pinot Grigio, 2017 40 Henriot, Brut Blanc de Blancs, nv 25 100 Friuli, Italy Champagne, France Santa Margherita, Pinot Grigio, 2018 16 64 Bruno Paillard, Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, nv 180 Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy Champagne, France Nickel & Nickel, Chardonnay, 2017 70 Veuve Clicquot ‘Ponsardin’, Brut, nv 150 Carneros, California Champagne, France Antinori “Bramito del Cervo”, Chardonnay, 2017 12 48 Veuve Clicquot ‘Ponsardin’, Brut, nv, 1.5l 300 Umbria, Italy Champagne, France Forman Vineyard, Chardonnay, 2017 170 Belstar Cuvée Rosé, nv 8 32 Napa Valley, California Veneto, Italy Il Borro “LeMelle”, Chardonnay, 2017 52 Laurent-Perrier Rosé, nv 220 Tuscany, Italy Champagne, France Contratto “For England”, Brut Rosé, Blanc de noir, 2011 90 Piedmont, Italy Cantina Della Volta, Lambrusco, Brut Rosso, 2016 11 44 Emilia Romagna, Italy Cantina Della Volta, Lambrusco, Rosé Metodo Classico, 2014 70 UNIQUE WHITES Emilia Romagna, Italy 5OZ
    [Show full text]
  • 31/05/2019 Barolo Region
    31/05/2019 Dear Barolo Lovers, The Barolo region has seen enthusiastic debate on the split between modernist and traditionalist producers. Today, the line is blurred. The producers, such as Paolo Scavino and Roberto Voerzio, once considered to be on the forefront of modernist winemaking has fine tuned their methods and return to more a moderate halfway-house approach. Aldo Conterno, perceived the more innovative brother among the two Conterno brothers, have for the last decade gradually tuning back to a more traditional approach to Barolo winemaking. These three wineries had all made their modernization attempts, whilst observing the best practices of traditional Barolo winemaking. Wineworld team selects a comprehensive selection of hallmark wines from these wineries for your consideration. Poderi Aldo Conterno The Conterno brothers part way back in 1969 when Aldo Conterno left his brother to manage his legendary father's, Giacomo Conterno, estate. Between the two brothers, Poderi Aldo Conterno has always been regarded as the more innovative brother as Giacomo Conterno continued his father's textbook traditional style. Having said that, among the three featured wineries today, Poderi Aldo Conterno is perhaps the least modernist candidate. Aldo Conterno's wines see shorter maceration time, lasting 2 to 3 weeks instead of the traditional practice of months-long fermentation. His wines are also aged exclusively in Slavonian oak casks. Price per btl Wine Vintage WA Qty Price per btl (Buy 6+) Aldo Conterno Barolo 2014 - 60+ $570 $550 Aldo Conterno
    [Show full text]
  • Cantina Giacomo Conterno En Primeur Cantina Giacomo Conterno En Primeur
    CANTINA GIACOMO CONTERNO EN PRIMEUR CANTINA GIACOMO CONTERNO EN PRIMEUR Before looking at the background of this property, we must announce one of the most exciting developments for Giacomo Conterno. Roberto Conterno has acquired a beautiful 9 hectare plot, Arione, next to his Cascina Francia vineyard. This south / southwest facing vineyard has always been held in high regard, wines produced there in the 1970s by Bruno Giacosa. This is both a tremendous investment for the future by the Conterno family and a major coup, advancing the family’s holdings for a second time under Roberto’s tenure. Roberto will, as ever, take his time to get under the skin of the new site, everything being vinified separately. Planting is currently just short of 6ha with 3.5 ha Nebbiolo, a To find out more about Corney & Barrow visit little over 1ha Nebbiolo d’Alba and 1ha Barbera d’Alba. www.corneyandbarrow.com We cannot wait to see what emerges. BACKGROUND Cantina Giacomo Conterno is in Monforte d’Alba, a small town of The Giacomo Conterno label is a guarantee of quality, been planted with vines, rather it was a wheat field. recognised universally as the prime ambassador for However, its exposure and largely calcareous soil the Langhe in the Piedmont region 0f north-west Italy. The Langhe Barolo: super-traditional, opulent, powerful and pure proved to be perfect for the Conterno style. is one of the most staggeringly beautiful wine-producing regions with an impressive capacity for ageing. From the first vintage of Cascina Francia in 1978, the in the world; breathtaking, with undulating hills adorned with The history of Cantina Giacomo Conterno spans four family stopped buying in grapes from elsewhere, generations, all equally endowed with pioneering which really put Cantina Giacomo Conterno on the woodland and striking, steeply-sloped vineyards.
    [Show full text]
  • Wine by the Glass Bin # White Glass Bottle
    WINE BY THE GLASS BIN # WHITE GLASS BOTTLE 117 Prosecco - Barocco - Veneto, Italy….................................................................................. 10 38 118 Brut Rose - J. Laurens Cremant de Limoux - Languedoc, France…......................................12 46 116 Moscato d'Asti - G.D. Vajra - Piedmont, Italy…..................................................................................................................12 46 106 Riesling - Gunderloch Kabinett - Rheinhessen, Germany…............................................................12 46 110 Pinot Grigio - Le Pianure - Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy…...........................................................................................................................................9 34 105 Sauvignon Blanc - Mohua - Marlborough, New Zealand…..................................................................................................10 104 Sauvignon Blanc - Domaine Fernand Girard - Sancerre, France….............................................................................................18 70 111 Nascetta - Fabio Oberto - Piedmont, Italy….........................................................................12 46 112 Garganega-Chardonnay - Scaia - Veneto, Italy…..........................................................................9 34 113 Chardonnay - Matchbook - Dunnigan Hills, CA…...................................................................................................................10 108 Chardonnay - Alois Lagedar - Trentino Alto-Adige,
    [Show full text]
  • Table of Contents
    TABLE OF CONTENTS Sparkling & Champagne ............................. 3 White Wine .................................................. 4 Greece ........................................................................................4 Mediterranean ......................................................................5 Germany ...................................................................................5 Italy ................................................................................................5 Spain ........................................................................................... 6 France ........................................................................................ 6 From the New World .......................................................7 Rosé Wine ................................................ 8 Skin-Contact Wine ................................... 9 Red Wine .................................................10 Greece .............................................................................10 Mediterranean ...........................................................12 Italy ..................................................................................... 12 Spain .................................................................................. 13 France............................................................................... 13 From the New World ............................................ 14 Thrace Macedonia Epirius Thessaly Ionian Islands Aegean Peloponnese Islands Crete 2 SPARKLING
    [Show full text]
  • WINE LIST Our Reserve Wine Program Is Always Evolving and Growing As New Vintages Become Available
    WINE LIST Our reserve wine program is always evolving and growing as new vintages become available. We make frequent changes to our wine program; however, our inventory of some vintages or selections may change or be unavailable. WINES BY THE GLASS AND BOTTLE SPARKLING + ROSÉ CAVA, L’Atzar Spain 2018 10 38 LAMBRUSCO, Umberto Cavicchioli & Figli ‘Robanera’ Modena 10 38 PROSECCO, Collalbrigo ‘Cipriani’ Veneto NV 10 38 CAVA BRUT ROSÉ, Sumarroca ‘Ya Cuvee 23’ Catalonia, Spain NV 12 45 ROSÉ, Wölffer Estate the Hamptons, Long Island 2020 12 45 ROSÉ, Lavignone, Pico Maccario Piedmont 2019 14 48 ROSÉ, Urban Provence ‘UP’ Cotes de Provence, France 2019 14 48 PINOT GRIGIO RAMATO, Sun Goddess Friuli 2019 15 55 LIGHT BODIED WHITES GAVI, San Matteo Piemonte 2019 10 38 PINOT GRIGIO, Famiglie Veneto 2019 10 38 SAUVIGNON BLANC, Unsorted California 2019 10 38 SAUVIGNON BLANC, Yalumba North East Victoria, Australia 2019 10 38 ALBARIÑO, Martin Codax, Rias Baixas, Spain 2019 12 45 ASSYRTIKO, Parlidis ‘Emphasis’ Macedonia, Greece 2018 12 45 PINOT BLANC, Lieb Cellars North Fork, Long Island 2019 12 45 WHITE BLEND, Bedell Cellars ‘First Crush White’ North Fork, Long Island 2019 12 45 CHABLIS, William Fevre ‘Champs Royaux’ Chablis, France 2018 16 62 MEDIUM BODIED WHITES MOSCATO, Ca’ Bianca Piedmont 2019 10 38 RKATSITELI, Stobi Tikveš, Macedonia 2018 10 38 BORGNONE BLANC, Joseph Drouhin Burgundy, France 2017 12 45 GRÜNER VELTLINER, Forstreiter Neiderösterrich, Austria 2019 12 45 RIESLING, Clean Slate Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany 2019 14 48 SANCERRE, Barton & Guestier
    [Show full text]
  • Flights Wines Beers Spirits
    Flights Wines Beers Spirits ALL FLIGHTS ARE A SET OF THREE WINES FOR 18 Feel like a natural...wine Think no chemicals in the vineyard and minimal manipulation in the cellar. This means wild fermentation, little fining or filtration, minimal or no added sulfur dioxide, and rarely, use of new oak. Check out the natural red wine flight too! CHÂTEAU SOUCHERIE, CUVÉE LES RANGS DE LONGUE, CHENIN BLANC, ANJOU-LOIRE, FRANCE ADEGA ELOI LORENZO, VILLA PAZ, TREIXADURA + ALBARIÑO + LOUREIRA, RIBEIRO, SPAIN HERMIT RAM, SKIN CONTACT SAUVIGNON BLANC, NORTH CANTERBURY, NEW ZEALAND All the better to smell you with! Sweet? No! Fruit-forward? Most def! Super aromatic with floral and tropical aromas! And deliciously dry white wines. ANNE AMIE, CUVÉE A, MÜLLER-THURGAU, YAMHILL-CARLTON, OREGON SPREITZER, ESTATE RIESLING, TROCKEN, RHEINGHAU, GERMANY SILVER THREAD VINEYARD, GEWÜRZTRAMINER, FINGER LAKES, NEW YORK The acid trip Acid is one of the core traits of wine. Knowing how acid tastes and the structure it gives wines, helps us further identify the profiles of wines we like. These wines may have a citrus note to them or have a zippy finish, but acid is the part that makes you salivate and want to take another sip. It acts as the backbone for wines. CHÂTEAU SOUCHERIE, CUVÉE LES RANGS DE LONGUE, CHENIN BLANC, ANJOU-LOIRE, FRANCE ANSELMO MENDES, ALVARINHO CONTACTO, VINHO VERDE, PORTUGAL SPREITZER, ESTATE RIESLING, TROCKEN, RHEINGHAU, GERMANY Rise of the indigenous grapes These grapes are native to their countries, and therefore, uniquely suited to that terroir, and often its best expression. These days, grapes varieties can be found everywhere but we like to start with their birthplace.
    [Show full text]
  • Giacomo Conterno 120Ml
    Sparkling 3 ne Wi Wine 2 Wine 1 Still REFRESHERS $7 PIEDMONTESE WINES BY THE GLASS ❦ Massimo ❦ ❦ More Massimo ❦ DINNER MENU Piedmontese Sparkling Wine, 150mL bitter aperitivo sweet & bitter aromatized grignolino Sparkling Rosé from Pinot Nero & Nebbiolo Contratto Bitter Asti, Italy Mauro Vergano Piedmont, Italy G.D. Vajra Barolo Vino Spumante Di Qualita Extra Brut Rosé NV Napoleon $9 John Adams dry Madeira A little rosé Champagne Henriques & Henriques Seco Especial Snacks $11 Piedmontese White Wines, 150mL La Caravelle Madeira, Portugal Erbaluce di Caluso Saucisson Sec $ Frasier Crane François Truffaut Bagna Cauda w/ Crispy & Crunchy Vegetables Ferrando La Torrazza 2019 11 rich, nutty Oloroso Sherry red wine-quinine apéritif Langhe (Chardonnay+Sauv+Blanc+Riesling+Nascetta) Lustau Don Nuño Jerez, Spain Byrrh French Catalonia Duck Terrine w/ Apple Mostarda Luigi Baudana Dragon 2018 $13 M.F.K. Fisher Don Quixote Roero Arneis Vietti 2019 $15 white vermouth on the rocks red vermouth on the rocks Choice of Appetizer Contratto Bianco Asti, Italy Lustau Vermut Rouge Xérès, Spain Langhe Chardonnay Panissa w/Kale, Red Beans & Parmigiano Poderi Aldo Conterno Bussiador 2017 $24 ❦ The Best of Barolo: Giacomo Conterno 120mL ❦ Luigi Baudana Langhe Bianco Dragon 2018 Piedmontese Red Wines, 150mL Barolo Cerretta 2010 $28 Agnolotti di Bacalà w/ Razor Clams & Parsley Giacomo Conterno Vietti Roero Arneis 2019 Verduno Peleverga Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 2004 $32 Castello di Verduno Basadone 2018 $15 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 1996 $36 Vitello Tonnato w/ Radish, Celery & Crispy Capers Erbaluce di Caluso Ferrando La Torrazza 2019 Barbera d’Alba Elio Grasso Vigna Martina 2017 $16 ❦ IGHLIGHTS FROM IEDMONT ❦ Langhe Nebbiolo H P Cantina del Pino $17 ❦ White Truffles from Alba supp $35 ❦ Sparkling Bramaterra Az.
    [Show full text]
  • January 3, 2013 Dining & Wine WINES of the TIMES a Shy Italian
    Published: January 3, 2013 Dining & Wine WINES OF THE TIMES A Shy Italian, Made for Everyday Tony Cenicola/The New York Times By ERIC ASIMOV WHAT is greatness? When that question is asked about wine, it sometimes is answered too narrowly. With food, most people recognize that all sorts of meals can satisfy and delight. A magnificent feast at a culinary temple does not cloud the ability to appreciate the pleasure of a perfect hamburger, or a chicken judiciously salted and well roasted. A great novel does not diminish the enjoyment of a well-turned historical romance. Nor does a cinematic triumph demean a good thriller. While acknowledging a hierarchy of genres, excellence is excellence. Yet with wine, we sometimes overlook a mountain of potential pleasures for the peak experience. I know more than a few people who believe that if a wine is not a benchmark bottle — a top Burgundy, Bordeaux or the equivalent — it’s not worth drinking. It’s a kind of blindness reserved for those who have never felt moved by the everyday joy that wine can offer, and who consequently measure all wines on a single scale rather than adjust their scales according to context. The wine panel recently found the perfect case in point: the dolcetto wines of the Langhe region of northwestern Italy. There, a hierarchy is clear. The nebbiolo grape rules. A good, well-aged Barolo or Barbaresco, the major nebbiolo Tasting Report wines, is a transcendent The panel tasted dolcettos, a blend of bitter and sweet, all under pleasure, one that speaks both $25.
    [Show full text]
  • Poderi Aldo Conterno, `Conca Tre Pile` Barbera D'alba 2009 Langhe, Piemonte, Italy
    Poderi Aldo Conterno, `Conca Tre Pile` Barbera d'Alba 2009 Langhe, Piemonte, Italy PRODUCER Aldo Conterno is one of the historic names of Italian wine. The Conterno family has been making wine in Monforte since at least the 1700s. Aldo's grandfather, Giovanni Conterno, founded his own winery in 1908 which was then run by his son, Giacomo. After a stint in the USA in the 1950s, Aldo worked with his older brother Giovanni in this winery until he decided to strike out on his own in 1969. Aldo's three sons now make the wine (Stefano) and run the business (Franco and Giacomo). Over the years, production has been deliberately reduced and the family now produces 80,000 bottles rather than the 200,000 produced in 1998. VINEYARDS The grapes are grown in the Conca Tre Pile vineyard which is a steeply sloping part of the Bussia Soprana hill in Monforte d'Alba. The Barbera vines are 46 years old on average. VINTAGE The 2009 vintage began with a winter marked by heavy snowfalls. Early spring was rainy but summer was dry and helped by excellent water reserves in the soil. These reserves proved to be of vital importance in the summer, averting any water stress-related problems which could have occurred due to the almost total lack of rain and the intense heat during the summer months, especially during the second half of August. Picking of Barbera began around the first week of October. VINIFICATION Maceration and fermentation occurred in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks between 26-28°C.
    [Show full text]
  • Piedmont 2014 and 2015 New Releases Are More “Good News”
    JAMESSUCKLING.COM – 25 SETTEMBRE 2018 PIEDMONT 2014 AND 2015 NEW RELEASES ARE MORE “GOOD NEWS” This year we (my son Jack and I) tasted more than 1,100 wines from Piedmont, the legendary wine region of Italy. We already reported earlier this year that we were impressed with the quality of the 2014 Barolos we tasted despite the difficulty of the growing season, and more still of these better-than-expected bottles feature in this report. The even better news is that we are much more excited about the 2015 vintage after rating so many outstanding wines from Barbaresco as well other appellations in our tasting. The prospect of trying 2015 Barolos in bottle is tantalizing. It should be a great year all around. “We love our 2015 Barolos and Barbarescos, but don’t forget the excellence of the 2014s in cases where producers treated their vineyards properly and made the right decisions during harvest,” says Bruna Giacosa, owner of the legendary wine house of Bruno Giacosa. James tasting with Roberto Conterno, owner of the legendary Giacomo Conterno estate, in January 2018. Her Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva 2014, scored 99 points, was one of our favorite wines tasted in Italy this year. As for the Bruno Giacosa Falletto Barolo Vigna Le Rocche 2015, also scored 99 points (prerelease), it’s the surest confirmation yet that 2015 should prove to be a classic year for the region. As mentioned previously, if we just judged the vintage on the wines of the top producers such as Conterno (Giacomo and Aldo), Roberto Voerzio, Bruno Giacosa, Pio Cesare, Paolo Scavino and others, we would say 2014 is another top year.
    [Show full text]