One of Italy's Greatest Wines Is Finally Getting the Attention It Deserves

One of Italy’s greatest wines is finally getting the attention it deserves. BARBARESCO è Bellissimo

ou’ve probably heard that Barbaresco is one of Italy’s top B Y wines. Yet, for many years, it’s also been one of its most KERIN O’KEEFE underappreciated gems. Many wine drinkers passed on it in PHOTOS BY favor of Barolo, its larger, more renowned neighbor. MEG BAGGOTT But now Barbaresco is stepping up its game, thanks, in Ypart, to a new generation of winemakers who are embracing more natural farming methods, leading to even higher quality. The region’s unique microclimate encourages freshness and balance in its Nebbiolo grapes,

STYLING: MICHAEL RELLA STYLING: even in the hottest vintages.

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he recent fascination with Nebbiolo and Piedmont has further shined a light on the denomination, as today’s wine lovers discover that Barbaresco is a Tworld-class wine. “Nebbiolo is a hot variety And, while ageworthy, it tends right now, and we’ve bene- to be approachable sooner. It fitted from all the attention,” makes Barbaresco a perfect says Aldo Vacca, managing fit for wine lovers looking director of the Produttori del for terroir-driven wines that Barbaresco winery, a leading possess energy and finesse. producer just southeast of It’s also surprisingly food Turin and one of Italy’s best friendly. Barbaresco works cooperative cellars. with traditional Piedmont “People used to go for cuisine like brasato al Barolo Barbaresco only if they (beef braised in Barolo) or couldn’t get Barolo, but not tajarin (egg noodles) topped anymore,” he says. “Espe- with butter sauce and the cially in the U.S., consumers region’s white truffles. It also now realize that Barbaresco is pairs brilliantly with a variety on par with Barolo and not a of other dishes, including second choice.” pasta dishes topped with Jamie Wolf, founding dense, savory tomato sauces partner of New York City’s and four-cheese gnocchi. Chambers Street Wines, a Producers such as Angelo shop that specializes in natu- Gaja and Bruno Giacosa rally made wines from arti- have been making excellent sanal producers, offers a strong Barbaresco for decades, but Piedmont selection. quality is now the norm for “Over the last few years, the multitude of small grower- our customers have become producers that form the back- more widely knowledgeable bone of the denomination. about Piedmont and Nebbiolo, Vineyard management is and I’m definitely seeing more key, and over the last several interest in Barbaresco,” he years, many of Barbaresco’s Ceretto 2013 93 Asili. Enticing says. family-owned estates and Adriano Marco Albino Rocca floral scents of rose and Grown in the rolling hills growers have shunned harsh 94 & Vittorio 2013 94 2013 Ovello. Vi- iris mingle with red of Piedmont’s Langhe area chemicals and industrial Sanadaive. Enticing olet, menthol, red berry Produttori del Poderi Colla fruit and aromatic herb Musso 2013 and separated from the Barolo fertilizers to embrace more scents of fragrant blue and dark spice aromas 94 Barbaresco 2011 93 2013 Roncaglie. on this stunning wine. 93 Pora. Initially growing zone by the city natural options. A number of flower, ripe red berry, lift from the glass along Asili Riserva. Lovely Here’s a classic Neb- The elegant, struc- closed, this eventually baking spice, menthol with a hint of toast. scents of rose, iris, wild biolo that opens with tured palate doles out offers alluring aromas of Alba, Barbaresco boasts firms have started the lengthy and new leather lead The delicious, chewy berry, vineyard dust, aromas of ripe black- crushed strawberry, of toasted hazelnut, enticing scents of violet, red organic certification process. the way. Fresh and el- palate doles out juicy baking spice and a hint skinned fruit, baking sour cherry, clove and exotic spice, steeped berry and earthy sensations “Many of us have been egant, the palate de- black cherry, vanilla of new leather come to- spice, truffle and un- white pepper alongside plum and nutmeg. The like leather and underbrush. practicing organic farming for livers juicy red cherry, and star anise along- gether on this fragrant derbrush. The juicy, bright acidity, while chewy palate offers Full-bodied and intense, the over 10 years, but only decided raspberry, cinnamon, side firm, polished red. The structured, expressive palate doles noble, refined tannins juicy Marasca cherry, white pepper and lico- tannins, which impart elegant palate deliv- out ripe Morello cher- provide the backbone. baking spice, vanilla wine is more about complexity to apply for certification a few rice. Firm, polished a soothing, velvety tex- ers juicy black cherry, ry, crushed raspberry, Give this a few more and a hint of coffee. and elegance and less about years ago, due to consumer tannins lend structure ture, but also give the licorice, clove and min- clove, white pepper and years to fully develop. Velvety tannins lend sheer muscle. request,” says Andrea Sotti- and a smooth mouth- wine structure. Hold eral alongside supple roasted herb. Firm but Drink 2020–2028. polished support and While Barbaresco can have mano, one of the denomina- feel. Drink 2018–2023. for even more complex- tannins that give it a refined tannins provide Leonardo LoCascio Se- a smooth mouthfeel. austere, Barolo-like structure, tion’s rising stars. Monsieur Touton ity. Drink 2018–2023. polished, silky texture. the backbone. Drink lections–The Winebow Drink through 2023. Selection. Editors’ de Grazia Imports. Cel- Drink 2018–2026. Vias through 2023. Mont- Group. Cellar Selec- Panebianco. Editors’ it typically doesn’t have the The number of certified Choice. lar Selection. Imports. calm Wine Importers. tion. Choice. same tannic force as its cousin. organic Barbaresco producers abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $58 abv: 14% Price: $80 abv: 14% Price: $150 abv: 14% Price: $38

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2016 WINEMAG.COM | 77 is set to skyrocket in two to three years, he says, once the mandatory conversion period is over. “Organic isn’t just about which treatments to use, it’s an entirely different approach to every aspect of vineyard management and follows through to the cellar,” says Sottimano.

Barbaresco fares better in hot vintages, thanks to changes in vineyard management and its proximity to the Tanaro River. The Communes of Barbaresco

After eliminating systemic Barbaresco sible. Vineyards that border on Barbaresco share many chemicals in the vineyard, The village that lent its name to the wine, this is the attributes with its neighbor, producing structured, Sottimano can now ferment historical heart of the denomination and the center ageworthy wines that boast elegance. Vineyards further with wild yeasts, something he of production. Thanks to complex soils (a combina- east have more sand and yield less structured wines. couldn’t do before. tion of bluish marls and calcareous clays interspersed Top producers include Bruno Giacosa and “You need about seven to 10 with sandy veins) and its position directly above the Sottimano, while the town’s top vineyards include years before you see a differ- Tanaro, Barbaresco produces the most complex Santo Stefano and Gallina. ence in the grapes, and then and ageworthy wines in the denomination, uniting the berries improve dramati- structure and elegance. Treiso cally,” he says. “Before going It’s home to some of the most celebrated vineyards, Possessing many of the highest altitude vineyards organic, we had to overripen including Asili and Rabajà, and some of the most in the denomination, Treiso enjoys constant breezes grapes to achieve polyphenolic storied producers, including Gaja and Produttori del and sharp day-night temperature changes, leading to maturation, but this led to Barbaresco. some of the most elegant and perfumed Barbarescos high alcohol and lower acidity Reflecting producer experience, quality tends to be in the denomination. levels. Now, my grapes reach more consistent from this village. “Barbaresco from Treiso generally has more ideal ripening, but acidity As a sign of the times, Angelo Gaja’s children—Gaia, tension and higher acidity, and vineyards here have remains fresh and alcohol Rossana and Giovanni—recently announced that benefitted from the warmer temperatures,” says levels restrained.” starting with the 2013 vintage, they’re bringing the Enrico Dellapiana, who runs the leading Rizzi estate Climate change has also firm’s coveted single-vineyard bottlings (which their along with his family. “Even in the hottest years, we’re helped Barbaresco. If the father declassified to Langhe Nebbiolo DOC starting able to maintain good acidity and freshness.” scorching 2003 season caught with the 1996 vintage) back into the Barbaresco fold. Top vineyard sites include Pajorè and Nervo. growers off guard (those who The wines will now be entirely Nebbiolo. completely defoliated the vines San Rocco Seno d’Elvio to help ripening ended up with Neive This tiny hamlet has steep slopes and cool tempera- withered grapes), producers This is the most varied village, producing wine ranging tures, producing Barbarescos with intense floral scents in both Barolo and Barbaresco from full-bodied and tannic to graceful and acces- and finesse. Look for those by Adriano Marco e Vittorio. were better prepared for the string of extremely warm vintages that started in 2007. torrid years like 2007, 2009 cooked fruit sensations and proximity to the Tanaro River. With the exception of 2013 and 2011 have proved the modest acidity. “During the crucial growing and 2014, those conditions opposite true. In Barolo, many Barbaresco fares better season, the river generates have become the norm. of the wines contain more than during hot vintages, thanks to warmer morning tempera- If Nebbiolo’s problem used 15 percent alcohol and have changes in vineyard manage- tures, accelerating grape matu-

to be reaching ideal ripening, evolved precociously, showing ment and the denomination’s ration,” says Vacca. “This GLINSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK ROSTISLAV

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2016 now. Drink or hold. drinking beautifully closed, they’re balanced. Initially structured and well wines that are bold, produced classic vintage that An outstanding 2001 Recent Vintages of Barbaresco 80 between thevillages and differences exist, however, feet above sea level. Subtle vineyards situated 656–1,148 what uniform, withthebest San Rocco Senod’Elvio. nation lies inAlba’s hamlet of while asliver of thedenomi Barbaresco, Neive andTreiso, passes three townships: per year. Thearea encom average of 4.5millionbottles acres, which produce an is small,totaling just 1,823 quickly atthiscritical phase. acidity, which can plummet tion isoften atthe expense of reach ideal phenolicmatura week of hangtimeneededto river’s influence, that extra like 2011.” even invery hot years with balance andfreshness As aresult, we can make wines tion, butstill retain freshness. grapes have hitideal matura than inBarolo, when our harvest atleast aweek earlier means that,onaverage, we aromas andflavors. producers have cut Nebbiolo’s unique

down onnew oak The whole area issome Barbaresco’s growing zone In Barolo, away from the | to avoid muffling WINEENTHUSIAST The majority of Drink now. rain at harvest. marred by torrential A terrible vintage, 2002 | OCTOBER 2016

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Drink now. alcohol levels. cooked fruit and high many wines show Even in Barbaresco, recorded in Italy. driest vintages ever One of the hottest, 2003 93 93 abv: 2023. Polaner Selections. side lithetannins. Drinkthrough pote, mintandpipetobacco along ripe blackcherry, raspberry com The polished,juicy palate delivers spice aromas emerge inthe glass. berry, violet, leather and baking 14.5% Stelle. Cascina delle Rose 2013 Tre

Ripeblack-skinned or hold. elegance. Drink lend balance and bright acidity that fine tannins and black-cherry flavors, Wines boast rich A fantastic vintage. 2004 Price:

$60 - - Drink now. and silky tannins. best have bright fruit difficult vintage. The harvest made for a Rain during the 2005 93 93 abv: Drink through 2025. RizziUSA. ity provide structure andbalance. but refined tannins andfresh acid and star anise. Youthfully assertive lent palate offers blackcherry, clove out of theglass. Thefirm,succu spice andawhiff of menthol lift 14% ripe berry, clove, baking Rizzi 2013 Nervo.

through 2026. ample acidity. Drink tannins along with depth and gripping show bright red fruit, potential. These with great aging A classic vintage 2006 Leather, Price: $55 - - tannins. Drink now. fruit and chewy wines with dense yielded forward vintagedry that An exceedingly hot, 2007 92 92 abv: through 2023. Skurnik Wines Inc. tannins andfresh acidity. Drink clove andpipetobacco, velvety cherry, raspberry compote, licorice, The chewy palate shows dense black and a balsamic note mark the nose. ing spice, violet, ahintof leather 14.5% Black-skinned berry, bak Sottimano 2013 Cottà. Drink or hold. acidity and intensity. firm tannins, bright classic wines with October, creating the harvest to through July pushed Cool, wet conditions 2008 Price: $50 -

PHOTO CREDIT among the denomination’s 66 officially delimited vineyard areas, known as geographic mentions. Barbaresco comes in several styles, depending not only on location and vineyard management (namely yield reduc- tion to increase ripening and concentration), but also on a producer’s winemaking and aging methods. Many producers make classic, terroir-driven wines aged in large Slavonian or French casks. Offering bright berry fruit, these may be a bit austere when first released. However, they soften after a few years and age magnifi- cently for a decade or more. Other producers use French barriques or tonneaux for aging, which gives the wines more widely recognizable sensations of toast, coffee and vanilla and accelerates maturation, making them approachable earlier. The majority of producers have cut down substantially on new oak to avoid muffling Nebbiolo’s unique aromas and flavors. Most producers use an in-between approach that Ugo Lequio 2013 Gal- Giuseppe Cortese 2013 Ra- Bersano 2013 Mantico. Subtle combines different kinds of 92 lina. Classic aromas of rose, 92 bajà. Aromas of underbrush, 91 aromas of leafy underbrush, oak and different sized barrels. leather, forest floor and ripe berry menthol, dark fruit, violet and ex- leather, truffle and red berry come The aim for most is to make lead into a chewy palate of Morello otic spice give way to a chewy palate together, while the full-bodied pal- wines that are approachable cherry, raspberry, white pepper, that delivers ripe cherry, pomegran- ate delivers juicy red cherry, rasp- upon release, but still reflect truffle, mocha and a hint of toast. ate, white pepper, herb and a truffle berry compote, baking spice and Fine-grained tannins support the note. Fine-grained tannins provide grilled herb. Chewy tannins provide their unique terroirs and age firm finish. Drink 2018–2028. Vino support. Leonardo LoCascio Selec- the framework, and a note of star for 10 to 20 years, depending Direct. Cellar Selection. tions–The Winebow Group. anise closes the finish. 8 Vini Inc. on the vintage. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $55 abv: 14% Price: $50

Recent Vintages of Barbaresco (continued) 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 The extremely hot, A long, cool growing An uneven vintage Intense heat in A cool, wet vintage that should have Barbaresco is set to shine in what was one dry summer created season created in terms of climate, late August and produced classic, vibrant wines with of the wettest, most difficult vintages ever wines with rich, classic, precise including extreme sharp day-night ample longevity. Some producers nailed in Italy. The denomination received one- chewy fruit, but Barbarescos boasting heat in the last half temperature changes it, but there’s a surprising number of third less rain than the rest of Piedmont, half rather low acidity. lovely perfumes, of August, created in September selections that show approachable, the rainfall of Barolo, and no precipitation Drink now. crunchy red-fruit powerfully structured produced well- jammy notes suggestive of overripe fruit. from mid-August until the harvest’s end in notes, vibrant acidity wines with ripe, balanced wines with the third week of October. Wines should be and firm but refined dense fruit. Hold. juicy fruit and refined fragrant, vibrant and elegant. tannins. Hold. tannins. Hold. To be released in 2017.

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