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k2 said about 1 year ago:

Thanks dzerzhanzhinskii!

k2 said about 1 year ago:

So I'm staying at this place http://www.andon.co.jp/ - any recommendations on things to do nearby?

Looks kind of close to minamisenju station - get a train one stop to kitasenju and check out Senju itself. There is a fish market there (not as big as tsukiji, but still worth checking out). You can also eat basashi (raw horse meat) in the area. Also there are loads of old sento (bath house) in the area with cool Mt Fuji murals. Also there is a live music venue in Senju that is full of westerners and jappers who like westerners. Cant remember the name. Senju itself is a pretty cool neighbourhood.

dzerzhanzhinskii said about 1 year ago:

basashi

that word makes me salivate irrationally. that and uni, otoro, , shinshū soba, and horumonyaki

So I'm staying at this place http://www.andon.co.jp/ - any recommendations on things to do nearby?

if you like fish and unagi (eel), there are at least two places in nearby asakusa (20-30 minutes bus-ride/drive?) that serve some of the best around.

komagata dozeu - traditional two century old restaurant that specialises in dojo fish - eel-like freshwater fish. they have whale meat too.

irokawa - hands down, one of the best grilled eel spots in all of tokyo.

dzerzhanzhinskii said about 1 year ago:

101 of 129 dzerzhanzhinskii said about 1 year ago:

dzerzhanzhinskii said about 1 year ago:

head over to ''hoppy street'' (hoppy dori) in asakusa for a good night out. it's within walking distance from the sensoji temple. it's a laneway with plenty of little izakayas (taverns / pubs) to keep you happy with alcoholic beverages and delicious food. food is mostly quick and simple tapas style snacking. they make really tasty motsu-nikomi (braised /beef offal) over there from what i can remember.

You can also eat basashi (raw horse meat) in the area.

you needn't go that far for a taste of horse. nakae is nearby - 5-10 minutes walk? from the andon ryokan. it's quite a famous place and very old too (over a century or so, i believe). go for the house specialty, sakura nabe (the meat is cooked / simmered / stewed in a hot pot), if you don't want it raw.

just right next door is a tempura eatery, iseya, that i highly recommend. it's another local institution with a long history. very popular with the locals. the tempura battering is old-school - substantial, thick, crusty. the portions they serve here are generous as well. order the regular staple of ten-don - tempura (generally prawns and veggies) on steamed rice. the in-house sauce is divine.

There is virtually no nightlife in Asakusa though,

see hoppy street above.

celluloid hero said about 1 year ago:

just in tokyo now, my third time here and kinda noticed the record shopping experience seems to have declined quite a bit. lots of stuff is really expensive now compared to 3 years ago - does anyone know why that is? used to be able to find heaps of stuff real cheap and it seems like the selection is way thinner now and lots of stuff is very expensive. did people just wise up to it?

yoghurt said about 1 year ago:

Will be in Japan for just over 2 weeks from end of Feb. Flying into Osaka then out of Tokyo. Any recommendations?

My ambitions so far are: Bullet train Ninjas or Sumos Temples Raw horse meat

102 of 129 k2 said about 1 year ago:

My ambitions so far are: Bullet train Easy. You will have to get from Osaka to Tokyo somehow.

Ninjas or Sumos You can visit sumo stables in tokyo if you get up early. Google will give you details on ones that allow filthy foreigners like yourself. Ninjas - there is that theme restaurant, or visit a ye olde theme park.

Temples I'd be surprised if you could manage a visit to Japan and not accidentally end up in a temple at some point.

Raw horse meat Up thread a bit we talk about Basahi and where you can get it (around Senju from memory).

Jetstar flying melb to tokyo direct now is fuckin ace.

bigdaddykane said about 1 year ago:

Kyoto has all the temples you'll need to see. Get a bike and pedal from the Golden Temple (Kinkaku-ji) to the Bamboo Forest (Tenryū-ji) to the Silver Temple (Ginkaku-ji) and down the Philosophers Walk. Then have dinner in Gion and run into some Geishas.

In Tokyo, just go crazy!

103 of 129 k2 said about 1 year ago:

Few photos from Nikko today:

104 of 129 yoghurt said about 1 year ago:

Japan is excellent.

yoghurt said about 1 year ago:

Met a guy who let us have his log cabin in the hills behind Fukuyama for as long as we want. And his car. He organized a breakfast for us with some lady and it turned out to be a kidnapping for a day of following her around Hugh Jackman locations. Good times but we had absolutely no idea what she was on about and she loved to talk.

105 of 129 tigers said about 1 year ago:

Ok - gonna be back there again in July with no great plans. Done all the major cities already - want to spend more time in the country/mountains. Any recommendations?

ocelotl said about 1 year ago:

Not exactly in the country/mountains, but how about an island? A quiet fishing community turned site-specific art hotspot? I had some sublime experiences at Naoshima a few years ago.

k2 said about 1 year ago:

Ok - gonna be back there again in July with no great plans. Done all the major cities already - want to spend more time in the country/mountains. Any recommendations?

Takayama is awesome, as is the amazingly beautiful train journey to get there. Plus Hida beef, and really great sake.

Hirayunomori is a great overnight onsen in the mountains - actually one of the cheapest and best onsens I have stayed in. Basic Japanese room (fine by me, I just wanted to relax) and amazing outdoor rotemburo (stone hot spring baths) that are open all night for guests. Includes brilliant kaiseki cuising and is the only onsen resort I have ever stayed in that has Engrish speaking staff and some Engrish instructions for things. I think it was only about $95 / night, and I was there during winter, so could hear avalanches on nearby mountains while I sat in a hot bath at midnight. One of my best memories of my most recent trip.

This town is called Narai-juku and is on the old Nakasendo road:

You can hike between towns on the Nakasendo (say Tsumago and Magome - about 7km) and pretend you are living in the Edo period travelling between Kyoto and Edo. The towns along this historic road have largely been kept the same too - very peaceful and relaxing.

k2 said about 1 year ago:

Also you will be there in prime Fuji-san climbing season - been to Hakone and the lakes area? It's beautiful. Maybe head that way for a few nights and climb Fuji-san?

bigdaddykane said about 1 year ago:

Lake Kawajuiko has a nice reflection of Fuji in it. And the roller coaster is killer!

yoghurt said about 1 year ago:

I could live in Japan.

106 of 129 tigers said about 1 year ago:

I forgot to check back in here...

ocelotl said 7 days ago: Not exactly in the country/mountains, but how about an island? A quiet fishing community turned site-specific art hotspot? I had some sublime experiences at Naoshima a few years ago.

Have already hit that up - loved it.

k2 said 7 days ago: Takayama is awesome, as is the amazingly beautiful train journey to get there. Plus Hida beef, and really great sake.

Yep, I've been looking into this. I think I'm gonna drive around for a week. Will have at least a couple of days in Takayama.

I'll check out the other places you mentioned - looks great.

Also you will be there in prime Fuji-san climbing season

this is something I am definitely considering. I think my time-frame might make it hard. Am really trying to not try to fit in too much this time.

Has anyone been to Yamagata? Looks amazing, as does Shirakawa-go

k2 said about 1 year ago:

Has anyone been to Yamagata

I mean to go to Yamadera in Jan, but stayed in Sendai instead. I completely agree with not trying to fit too much in - I always try not to do that but still end up doing perhaps too much.

Matsumoto is also a cool place to visit. Really great castle there and some of the best ramen I had in all of Japan (and I ate LOADS or ramen last time I was there).

Regarding Fuji-san - I dont think we really respected the climb enough - we were smoking and drinking sake in the early stages of the climb (started at 10pm from the 5th station), and by 4am, I thought I may in fact die on the mountain. It's not super hard - grannys and kids do the climb, but yeah if you do go ahead with it, eat well before, take water, give yourself plenty of time, etc.

I dont want to scare you though - it was and still is one of the most amazing travel experiences I have ever had and will remember watching the sun come up from the top of the mountain until my grave. I HIGHLY recommend it.

tigers said about 1 year ago:

Matsumoto is on my list too! Looking forward to that.

This is my rough tour plan at the moment. Wanna do this drive in 8-9 days. Which might not leave me with too much relaxing time... Google map link

107 of 129 k2 said about 1 year ago:

If you are going through Nagano, I recommend Shibu Onsen. Amazing little onsen town, and one of the hotels there is what Miyazaki based the hotel from Spirited Away on. Also you can walk about 3km from Shibu Onsen and see the snow monkeys.

There are some great episodes of Journeys in Japan (a NHK World travel show) on Takayama and Nagano. Worth hunting down. A lot of episodes are on youtube, otherwise torrents.

tigers said about 1 year ago:

I might be asking you a bunch of questions over the coming weeks k2...

I was thinking of doing 1 night at Shibu Onsen and 1 in matsumoto. Should I just do 2 in Shibu Onsen and just pass through matsumoto? I'll be driving...

Any accommodation ideas for either of those places?

Thanks for the info so far - much appreciated!

108 of 129 k2 said about 1 year ago:

I might be asking you a bunch of questions over the coming weeks k2...

no probs!

I was thinking of doing 1 night at Shibu Onsen and 1 in matsumoto. Should I just do 2 in Shibu Onsen and just pass through matsumoto? I'll be driving...

If you are staying in a ryokan, then one night is enough. I stayed for two nights in Shibu Onsen at a ryokan, and with the huge breakfasts and dinners, it's just too much. Go to Matsumoto. One night in the care of of a ryokan, then one night to yourself in a hotel in Matsumoto. My friend Yoko said that Japanese rarely stay in a ryokan more than one night in a row.

By the way, a great/cheap hotel chain is Dormy Inn - this is where I stayed in Mastumoto. Varies slightly, but you will get a clean modern room for about ¥6800. I also stayed in a Dormy Inn Premium for a few nights, and that was really nice. I was gone for 5 weeks so balanced nice ryokans with basic business hotels.

Any accommodation ideas for either of those places?

How good is your Japanese? The ryokan I stayed in at Shibu Onsen spoke no English whatsoever. Not a word. It made things a little difficult for me (and my Japanese is basic but ok) when okaasan is trying to explain how dinner works and how to use the 8 different hot spring baths at night. If you think you will struggle with it, then I dont recommend the place I stayed even though the food was brilliant.

I stayed here: http://ikariya2197.jimdo.com

Speaking of the baths, you may have already read this, but at Shibu Onsen there are 8 ofuro baths scattered around the town that are only available to people staying in a ryokan overnight. The way it works is you have dinner, then put on a yukata, geta, take your key (provided by the ryokan) and clip clop your way around the street at night going from bath to bath and commenting to fellow bathers about how hot the water is. It's excellent, though maybe made more excellent for me because it was snowing too.

Here are some pics I took.

Shibu Onsen:

My ryokan was directly across from this one, so this greeted me each morning:

109 of 129 These guys are worth seeing.

This is Matsumoto castle.

110 of 129 tigers said about 1 year ago:

was re-reading this from the start to get some info, but thought I'd update a few things from questions further up the thread to save people potentially re-reading the whole thing and still not getting accurate answers.

PHONE/SIM CARDS IN JAPAN:

Last time I was there I used a B mobile visitor sim. Works out to be about $40AUD for 2 weeks of unlimited data, or the same for 1GB of data at a higher speed. I opted for the 1GB and it was great - no idea what the speed was like on the 2 week one. You can't make voice calls using it, however - it is data only. That said, I just waited until I was around wifi to make calls using skype. From what i've heard about softbank rentals etc, this was a far better option. You can only order a maximum of 2 weeks before you want to pick it up/have it delivered (you can grab it from a selected post office or have it delivered to your hotel), or a minimum of 3 days. So you gotta make sure you get in during that window!

JR PASSES:

All mention of thee above only mentions buying them in person at select places. There are now quite a few places you can buy these online, but you still have to make sure you buy them well before you leave for Japan. When i bought mine the cheapest place to order them from was Rail Guru.

k2 - taking your advice - 1 night each in Shibu Onsen & Matsumoto. Pumped.

anok said about 1 year ago:

amazing work in this thread you guys. been getting the urge to go again lately.

k2 said about 1 year ago:

It's weird how what I love about Japan has changed over the years. I have been there 10 times, and on three occasions for 4+ weeks. I am still completely in love with the country - I started out being in love with Tokyo and modern Japan for all it's high tech / blade runner / hentai weirdness. Then I started to love it for all the opposite things - food, people, insanely beautiful natural landscapes, shinto mysticism and buddhism from a cultural (and maybe a little bit spiritual) perspective. These days I love all those things, but it's the intersection of them that I most love.

Lots of shit things in Japan too btw, I'm not myopic about it. It is the only country I have visited where I have directly experienced racism - but for every dickhead there are 10 amazingly welcoming and friendly people.

end late night musings

bigdaddykane said about 1 year ago:

Be careful with SoftBank, I was up for $250 for 2 weeks of data when all I did was drunkenly update FB away from wifi. Its a flat rate of about $25 per day no matter how little data you use, so if you break the seal one day then just go nuts.

tigers said about 1 year ago:

Ok, k2, I need your help again. I'm staying in Takayama for a couple of nights, and was meant to be headed to Shirakawa-go, but all the accommodation there is booked out. SO, I have one night between Takayama & Kyoto. Any ideas? I was thinking Gujo Hachiman, but it's been a bit annoying finding somewhere to stay. Let me know if you have any tips - it would be good to find somewhere in between to cut that 6 hour drive down a bit...

111 of 129 k2 said about 1 year ago:

Hmm, your options are endless really. I would suggest Tsumago-juku on the Nakasendo road, though it's not exactly on the way to Kyoto and would require a slight diversion. I say this because I wanted to go there, and the woman running my ryokan got sick right before I was due to arrive, so I had to go elsewhere. From Tsumago, you can hike about 7km to Magome-juku and the trail has been kept as it was in ancient times. They dont allow advertising billboards and the facades of houses are as they were. Other than the hike between the two places, there isn't much to do but relax. They encourage you to eat and bathe when the sun goes down and get up when the sun comes up (like in ye olde times). There is a bus that goes between the two towns, so you could stay in Tsumago, get the bus to Magome in the morning and then hike back to your ryokan and the car (or vice versa).

Tsumago:

Magome:

If that is not your thing, or you would rather head directly for Kyoto, maybe head to Lake Biwa and one of

112 of 129 the Ryokans or towns around that. This place looks nice (though I have no idea, never stayed there or anywhere around Lake Biwa). You could check out the 8 views of Omi if you are into ukiyo-e.

Basically, I have no idea, but if I was looking for an overnight between Takayama and Kyoto, I'd look at somewhere like Lake Biwa.

tigers said about 1 year ago:

Gonna try for Tsumago - I'd written it off because I tried to stay there on another night (earlier in the trip) and it was all booked out. Will try again with this new date. Lake Biwa looks nice, but if I'm going that far I reckon I'll just head all the way to Kyoto. Thanks again!

2 months today and I'll be on a plane...

dj said about 1 year ago:

Hey ya'll

I'll be going in September, early October with my wife and our kids (two girls under 10). Hooray. Booked a tidy place on Air BnB in Asakusa, Tokyo for 12 nights.

Tell me things to do. I've already bought tickets to the Sumo. Got plans for Disneyland, the fish market, and other touristy sights.

Any ideas about a night away in the country to hit the onsens? Any good izakayas to try? Any tips

sonian said about 1 year ago:

Asakusa is great, good pick! I'm not good at kid-friendly suggestions though.

black wasp! said about 1 year ago:

Asakusa... I love that neighbourhood! Make sure you take the kids to Hanayashiki, and if you fancy a little walk then visit Ayumu Haitani's café, muumuu coffee. He lived in Australia for a couple of years and since moving back, put his coffee-making skills to use by opening his own shop. He also plays in 4 Bonjour's Parties.

You could take the kids to Fujiyama/Mt Fuji. There are paddle boats which you can hire at Lake Kawaguchiko, there are Thomas the Tank Engine themed trains and it's a nice little town and a couple of hours on trains through pretty countryside. You could stay over, too. You might be able to find an onsen nearby?

team sandwich said about 1 year ago:

Any tips

Ghibli museum will be great for the kids.You can get tickets from a lawson store in tokyo. But even better if you get someone in Japan to do it before you arrive. It sells out all the time. I will be in tokyo from tomorrow for a week and I got a friend to book tickets 3 weeks ago. It was nearly sold out for the entire week i am there. The australian reseller is nearly always sold out.

I also really like walking from Shibuya to Shinjuku through yoyogi park. Great walk.

Staying at the park hyatt this trip. Thought I should splash out and stay there at least once in my life!

team ham sandwich said about 1 year ago:

Oh, and citadines apartments shinjuku is also really good. Rooms are about $120 a night for a studio apartment style thing. Can't beat it at that price in that location.

tigers said about 1 year ago:

About to get on a plane. Hopefully this typhoon thing isn't causing too much damage by the time I land.... Poor japan :(

bigdaddykane said about 1 year ago:

If you want a classy Ryoken in Lake Kawaguchi, I stayed at Kozantei Ubuya. It was rad, you get to hang out in robes all day, there's an onsen underneath and you get views out yr window of Fuji reflected in Lake Kawaguchi. And Fuji Hiland Theme park is only about 10 mins away.

113 of 129 tigers said about 1 year ago:

Just got to Matsumoto from shibu onsen. Eating ramen now and about to find a bar. Any recommendations? K2?

team ham sandwich said about 1 year ago:

Did you feel the earthquake on friday tigers? I was on the 50th floor of the park hyatt tokyo when the room started swaying at 4.30am. Very scary!

team ham sandwich said about 1 year ago:

Also visited the POLA gallery in Hakone. Very cool!

tigers said about 1 year ago:

No, haven't felt any yet. I was in nikko then - musn't have made it that far... How long are you in town for?

team ham sandwich said about 1 year ago:

Got back to Melbourne this morning. Wish I was still there!

sonian said about 1 year ago:

Recommendations, please!

Any weird / wonderful hotels or airbnb places in Japan that you can vouch for? Looking for less than $150 a night for a couple, but will suss out any and all recommendations. Tokyo/Osaka/any other areas on the southern half of Honshu.

tigers said about 1 year ago:

I should update this after my latest trip... I will try to this week some time.

If you have time to get away from the main cities for a few days, head up to Nikko and stay with Scout at Space Riverhouse. I've been up there a couple of times and plan to do so again when I head back next year. Great place to stay if you like to do a bit of hiking, temple/shrine visiting or just relaxing.

It looks like this:

It's super pretty.

114 of 129 sonian said about 1 year ago:

I'm gonna stay here! (sans wall-climbing child)

Urquhart Bluff said about 1 year ago:

If you want a classy Ryoken in Lake Kawaguchi, I stayed at Kozantei Ubuya. It was rad, you get to hang out in robes all day, there's an onsen underneath and you get views out yr window of Fuji reflected in Lake Kawaguchi. And Fuji Hiland Theme park is only about 10 mins away.

Thanks for the tip BDK! I've booked there in September. Did you stay in a Japanese or Western style room?

115 of 129 team ham sandwich said about 1 year ago:

> Any weird / wonderful hotels or airbnb places in Japan that you can vouch for? Looking for less than $150 a night for a couple, but will suss out any and all recommendations. Tokyo/Osaka/any other areas on the southern half of Honshu.

Citadines Shinjuku is excellent. About 100-120 a night from memory.

SnoopDoug said about 12 months ago:

Thinking about Japan. Anybody done the Kumano Kodo trails? I couldn't be assed looking through all the posts above. Looks pretty good, although having never been to Japan before, and not being an experienced overseas traveler, I'm not too sure how I'll go just banging about down in the south. Easy peasy...?

QuallOfDuty said about 12 months ago:

I stayed at a lovely place called Andon Ryokan with my gf in Feb. it's in a lovely area and close to Minowa station, downside is it's a fair distance from Shinjuku and Shibuya etc. which isn't a problem with trains during the day, but at night if you wanna party it's a bit hard when the trains stop at midnight.

Pex said about 12 months ago:

well, if you party, party hard! from memory, the trains start running from 5am, so what's 5 hours of partying?

bigdaddykane said about 12 months ago:

''Urquhart Bluff said 27 days ago: Thanks for the tip BDK! I've booked there in September. Did you stay in a Japanese or Western style room?''

Sorry I missed this Urquhart! It was Standard Japanese-style Room. U get yr own rice paper walled dinner room that is kinda like where Darth Vader is waiting for Han in Cloud City. They also have a post office box from memory. I recommend the Western breakfast; the Japanese one, while unique, was heavily reliant on kippers.

bigdaddykane said about 12 months ago:

As I had about 90 mins to kill before my train back to Tokyo, one of the Ryoken staff dropped me at Fuji Hiland for a quick go on a rollercoaster. I thought I was dying throughout, including when it pauses mid-ride so you can gaze at Fuji before it throttles off again, but good God it was a euphoric relief when I landed safely back on earth. Sadly there was not enough queuing time to go on another ride, so get there early.

Urquhart Bluff said about 11 months ago:

Kozantei Ubuya was amazing BDK! We went Japanese style room. The day we arrived Mt Fuji was completely covered in cloud. It finally appeared the next day which was amazing as it was my birthday and I'd resigned myself to the fact we wouldn't see it. Didn't get to Hiland but did go to the Kawaguchiko Music Forest Museum which is my new favourite place on earth. A wacky folly like complex featuring mechanical music machines and automatons from the late 19th/early 20th century. All with My Fuji looming in the background. And I thought Kozantei was amazing value seeing as you get that amazing dinner and breakfast includes in the price. Thanks again for the tip!

bigdaddykane said about 11 months ago:

I'm glad it worked it for you! I spent about 6 hours at work one quiet day investigating the best lake-mountain-sky reflecting combination Ryoken near Fuji and how to get there from Kyoto and on to Tokyo, so just glad it helped another brother out.

bigdaddykane said about 11 months ago:

And now I have to go back and go to that museum.

Davel said about 11 months ago:

Fuck you Japan. can you say ''Comfort Women''? and another fuck you from the dolphins and whales.

Davel said about 11 months ago:

oh noes, now i won't be able to have sex with 13 year old schoolgirls.

116 of 129 sonian said about 11 months ago:

tips for good, cheap(ish) places to stay in Osaka, pls. Airbnb pickings are slim...

tigers said about 11 months ago:

I stayed here and it was great: Arietta hotel Osaka

Mind you, I had a partner to share the cost with, and I think i got a deal through some website, so not sure it is in the 'cheap' side of things, but take a look. I dug it.

tigers said about 11 months ago:

In other news, it looks like I'm heading back in Feb AND July next year. nice.

bigdaddykane said about 11 months ago:

I stayed in Fraser Residence Nankai Osaka and it was about $140 a night. It had a good locale, not too far from the big Glico man in Dotonbori and the rad Namba park across the road. It was smallish, but most Japanese hotels are, aye.

monkeyman said about 11 months ago:

Hotel Dotonbori is great- awesome location and breakfasts!

golden-shower said about 7 months ago:

anybody want to join me to fujirock?

CaptainHowdy said about 6 months ago:

any japan experts got any advice for me?

i'll be in japan for 12 or 13 days in may. trying to figure out how to divide my time. arriving in osaka, want to visit kyoto, flying home from tokyo. so far i will definitely spend two full days at tokyo disneyland (because i'm a child) and have a ticket for the ghibli museum (not sure if that's a half day or whole day deal). i tend to overplan holidays to death but i'm trying to be more casual about this trip, since keeping it casual seems suited to japan. but i want to organise accommodation in advance so how long should i spend in osaka, kyoto, tokyo? or where else should i visit (nara sounds nice, but is nikko superior)?

117 of 129 k2 said about 6 months ago:

ghibli museum (not sure if that's a half day or whole day deal)

half day

so how long should i spend in osaka, kyoto, tokyo?

Depends what you like to do. Been before? Like big cities?

Personally I would spend most of my time in Kyoto, but it's my favourite place in Japan. It's also a good place to base yourself for trips to Osaka, Nara, Hiroshima, Kobe, Himeji, etc. All are great places to visit - again depends on what you like. In my opinion Kansai is the best place to base yourself. Save 3 days for Tokyo at the end.

If you are in Kansai, and want the most peaceful night of your life, visit Mt Koya and stay in a temple. You can get up at 6am with the monks and join their chanting/service/thing. Also the cemetery and temples in this area are amazing. it was about AUD$120 / night from memory and that includes awesome vegetarian dinner and breakfast. Train from Osaka, then up a ropeway (cablecar).

nara sounds nice, but is nikko superior

Nara was the capital at one point, and has fantastic buildings, and loads of excellent streets lined with houses that have wooden facades, etc. There are also deer wandering around freely. They have a lantern festival around May/June I think so you might get lucky and see that - it's stunning.

Nikko is great for temples and ryokan. You can do a day trip to Nikko from Tokyo so maybe add a day to the Tokyo part of your trip? Both Nara and Nikko are worth visiting.

For accommodation, assuming you don't care much about it, business hotels are the way to go - only slightly more than staying in a capsule hotel, but all the comfort of a proper hotel room. Dorm Inn is quite good, and Dormy Inn Premium is fantastic. Make sure you spend at least one night in a ryokan though.

Want more info? I'm full of info.

anonymous said about 6 months ago:

too much radiation, don't go.

CaptainHowdy said about 5 months ago:

thanks for your reply, k2!

experience with japan: i've been before, in 2000, as part of a school trip. i was a kid so expect this trip to be very different. that being said though, i will be visiting a lot of the same sights because i'm going with someone who's never been to japan before.

osaka: staying two nights. will be visiting kaiyukan and universal studios. planning to visit himeji castle from osaka but, you mentioned kyoto would be a good base to visit himeji from, k2? i think we could rejigger out itinerary to make that work. anything else a must-see in osaka?

koyasan: i am super into the idea of a temple stay but we decided it's not gonna work out for us on this trip. will absolutely come back and do this next time.

kyoto: staying four nights. planning to see all the major temples and shrines (or as many as we can). will use kyoto as a base to make a day trip to nara. i want to visit iwatayama monkey park too, which is about 30 minutes outside of kyoto but ends up being a half-day trip with the hike up the mountain (and arashima bamboo grove is close by so will check that out). what is must-see in kyoto?

fujisan: on our way from kyoto to tokyo we want to stop for a night somewhere to give us a chance to stare at fujisan. want to also check out lake kawaguchi and an onsen. considered visiting fuji-q but in the end decided we didn't have time to spend a whole day. does anyone know a good place to stay close to fujisan? will either stay in a ryokan here or in kyoto.

tokyo: staying five nights. sounds like a lot maybe but will do two full days at disneyland. rest of the time will be checking out the usual neighbourhoods and museums. anything must-see in tokyo?

bigdaddykane said about 5 months ago:

Kozantei Ubuya on Lake Kawaguchiko is a classic Ryokan and has Fuji-san reflected in the lake and an onsen underneath, all for the low cost of Y50,000 (in 2012 that is).

118 of 129 tigers said about 5 months ago:

Coupla things Cap'n Howdy:

Osaka: Go to Dotonbori for the great lights and eat okonomiyaki from one of the hundreds of places selling it. If you can, go to Mizuno for the best one I've had there. Shinsaibashi for shopping & bars. America-mura for bars & live venues.

You could do Osaka Castle, but if you're just there for 2 days I probably wouldn't bother.

Check out Kuromon Ichiba Market for food delights.

Kyoto: You can fit all the must-see temples/shrines in in one day, really. I'd suggest making sure you get to Kinkaku-ji, Ginkaku-ji, Kiyomizu-dera & the Fushimi Inari shrine.

Make sure you eat the burnt miso ramen from here: Gogyo Ramen

Tokyo Everything. Anything. It's all good. Last time I went I was convinced to go check out the SkyTree, which I've never done. It was worth it. Amazing view. Not a far walk from Asakusa too, so you can do them both at once. Akihabara also.

119 of 129 k2 said about 5 months ago:

Yep listen to tigers. I'll just add my own flavour:

Osaka: Okonomiyaki yes, but also try kushiage / kushikatsu which is a kind of Osaka specialty - deep fried things on sticks! Remember to not double dip in the sauces. Also takoyaki! Fuck I love takoyaki. Den Den Town is the Osaka equivalent of Akihabara and in my opinion a lot cooler and more interesting. Less gaijin not that that matters.

Kyoto: Like I said, my favourite place in all of Japan. I'll just paste my rough itinerary from last time I was there. Oh if you like whisky, go to Yamazaki!

(you might need to right-click and view in new tab)

Fujisan: A few years back, I stayed at a small ryokan in kawaguchiko. I cant remember the name of it, but it was super basic and reasonably cheap. Check out this guide.

This is the view from the front of the ryokan, right near the station which wasn't ideal, but again, cheap!

This is lake kawaguchi, about 10 minute walk from that ryokan:

Do you plan to climb the fucker? I have done it. Probably the most satisfying thing I have ever done.

If you do go to Fuji-Q Highlands, there is a onsen resort just behind it, that you get a discounted ticket for if you have bought a Fuji-Q ticket, and you can move between the two all day, so rollercoaster, then sit in a bath, then rollercoaster, then bath.

Tokyo: There are a million things to do in Tokyo. The last couple of times I have stayed there, I stayed in a hotel on the edge of Shinjuku 3-chome / Kabuki-cho and Korea town. A good spot I reckon, and the hotel is nice. There is a ramen shop across the road run by a racist cunt though. Maybe avoid that. There is a flea market in Yoyogi park on Sundays which is cool to check out. Also a bunch of random bands ''busking''

120 of 129 and all kinds of cosplayers and stuff. Cool to see and you can take in Harajuku on a sunday too.

k2 said about 5 months ago:

I've probably given the same advice over and over in this thread, but it does go back 6 years.

CaptainHowdy said about 5 months ago:

your advice is solid, k2. thanks heaps. thanks to you too, tigers and bigdaddykane.

tigers said about 5 months ago:

When do you head off? I'm there again for a whirlwind 6 nights in a couple of weeks. Heading up to Nikko to do some springtime walkin'. Then no more visits this year. I think I'll head up to Hokkaido next Summer for a few weeks. Still never been.

CaptainHowdy said about 5 months ago:

holiday starts on may 3 but will arrive in osaka on may 20.

it'd be great to check off all the obvious stuff on this trip and then plan another trip soon that's a little less typical.

what did you think of the genji monogatari museum in uji, k2? i tried to be a massive dork in high school and read the novel but abandoned it pretty quickly. i read the much gentler the tale of murasaki instead so i have a fondness for the story. is the museum so niche it's alienating?

k2 said about 5 months ago:

To be honest, I only vaguely remember it because I had been to a few museums either side of it and they all kind of blend together. My interest in it was through the Genji video games, and knowing it's basically the oldest fictional novel in the world. Can't believe you tried to read it though, isn't it huge?

Man if you have an interest in the Heian period, then you are going to love Kyoto. And really, the Heian period is when Japan and Japanese culture as we know it was born.

If you want to get more out of Kyoto, there is a great show on NHK World called Mapping Kyoto Streets, where every episode they choose a single street and explore all the shops and stuff. There are episodes on youtube. Really helpful since Kyoto (like Melbourne) doesn't reveal it's secrets easily.

k2 said about 5 months ago:

For instance:

2014 08 06 MAPPING KYOTO STREETS Teramachi dori

121 of 129 CaptainHowdy said about 5 months ago:

the novel is pretty massive. i borrowed it from the library. i reckon it was this edition, which is allegedly 1090 pages:

i'm not an expert on the heian period but i picked up an interest in classical japanese history from my high school japanese teacher. she recommended the tale of murasaki, which i though had enough heian flavour.

that mapping kyoto streets series looks rad. all the videos uploaded on that youtube account look pretty good actually.

tigers said about 5 months ago:

Sweet link k2! Can't wait to check that out...

kazpatafta said about 5 months ago:

Going in Sep/Oct. Like you tigers, thinking Hokkaido after the obligatory Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka. Any Hokkaido early autumn recommendations welcome. Keen for a few days in a satoyama/rice paddy village (pretty much Totoro-esque, sue me) either in Hokkaido or elsewhere after drinking my weight in Hibiki and Hitachino for however many weeks.

CaptainHowdy said about 4 months ago:

anyone bought gig tickets in japan using a lawson l-ticke machine or ticket pia machine? i found these instructions which make it seem pretty straightforward.

King_Rat said about 4 months ago:

Jetstar at it again

Urquhart Bluff said about 4 months ago:

Not great deals though.

122 of 129 team ham sandwich said about 4 months ago:

anyone bought gig tickets in japan using a lawson l-ticke machine or ticket pia machine? i found these instructions which make it seem pretty straightforward.

Bought ghibli tickets from it twice. Really easy to do.

King_Rat said about 4 months ago:

Not great deals?

You can get a return flight for less than $600, you want a wristy on top?

bigdaddykane said about 4 months ago:

Is it 300 return too or just 300 there, whatever they want on the way back, so around 1100 return?

King_Rat said about 4 months ago:

No I found 299 there and 265 back.

Carry on only.

King_Rat said about 4 months ago:

So 564 return

King_Rat said about 4 months ago:

If you want baggage it'll be $657 return on that one.

Taxes not included in my original amount.

But $657 includes taxes and 20kg baggage both ways.

Urquhart Bluff said about 4 months ago:

I couldn't find that. Oh well that's good then. But I'd prefer a wristy on top.

bigdaddykane said about 4 months ago:

Ok thats not bad!

King_Rat said about 4 months ago:

Pay for my flight and I'll give you a wristy until Cairns

Urquhart Bluff said about 4 months ago:

Bugger Cairns. I fly direct baby!

King_Rat said about 4 months ago:

Flight there had a Cairns stop, return was direct. One direction. WRISTIES!

Can always get on the karaoke wristy game show. One Summer.

One

Urquhart Bluff said about 4 months ago:

I'll find a way.

King_Rat said about 4 months ago:

Drive to Cairns

123 of 129 Urquhart Bluff said about 4 months ago:

Oh I thought you were singing a Daryl Braithwaite song so I joined in.

King_Rat said about 4 months ago:

Well if our situation should keep us separated, enjoy your trip.

ocelotl said about 4 months ago:

Why you should go if you haven't (one reason.)

team ham sandwich said about 4 months ago:

I've got two weeks there in July. Even going to try get myself to okinawa for a bit of a surf!

team ham sandwich said about 3 months ago:

Just booked in a couple of nights here. Can't wait!

crackwhore said about 3 months ago:

that looks fucking awesome THS, give us some updates and enjoy !

anok said about 3 months ago:

wow. that does like nice.

bigdaddykane said about 3 months ago:

That looks ace.

team ham sandwich said about 3 months ago:

Last time I was in the area you couldn't see fuji due to a typhoon. Fingers crossed for better weather this time!

CaptainHowdy said about 3 months ago:

i spent a couple of days by lake kawaguchi last week. before i arrived, tbh i wasn't sure if i'd be very impressed by fuji so i wasn't worried if the weather turned out to be balls and i missed seeing it. but the weather ended up being great and fuji was clear and stunning. couldn't stop gawping at it. what a cutie.

bigdaddykane said about 3 months ago:

Isn't she lovely.

golden-shower said about 3 months ago:

I'll be there first 10 day of July. Can't flippen wait.

golden-shower said about 3 months ago:

Does anybody know if it Is it worth to stop off in Nagoya for a day?

tigers said about 3 months ago:

In my opinion - No.

tigers said about 3 months ago:

I like Nagoya, but I don't think it's a day-trip kinda place. If you had more time, it would be worth staying for a bit. But I wouldn't put staying there above spending more time in Kyoto, Osaka or Tokyo. If you've done those places before and want to branch out, go check it out. But to answer your question again - I wouldn't bother.

124 of 129 k2 said about 3 months ago:

Good chicken wings but.

tigers said about 3 months ago:

BEST CHICKEN WINGS. Holy shit I forgot about those.

golden-shower said about 3 months ago:

recommended accommodation in tokyo?

bigdaddykane said about 3 months ago:

Link to the wings?

k2 said about 3 months ago:

https://cookpad.com/us/recipes/142573-spicy-nagoya-style-chicken-wings

Seriously awesome.

tigers said about 3 months ago:

recommended accommodation in tokyo?

Air BnB I reckon. Are you going to be there on your own? Have you been before? I can PM you some links to places I've stayed before that were good. I usually stay around yoyogi/harajuku/shibuya area. Close to good stuff, easy to get to everywhere else from.

golden-shower said about 3 months ago:

PMing you tigers

Cheers!

bigdaddykane said about 3 months ago:

Can I have those links PMed too Tigers? I have no immediate plans to go but I do like to daydream about going, this time without kids so I can sleep all day and be up all night looking at neon and go full Blade Runner.

tigers said about 3 months ago:

I'll just post them in here when I get home later - no real reason to PM them I guess. The links will just expire if the places change/come off airbnb.

k2 said about 3 months ago:

Protip: Omoide Yokocho in Shinjuku. You're welcome.

bigdaddykane said about 2 months ago:

I'm pretty close to saying FTIGTJ.... That Omoide Yokocho has pushed me over the edge k2, so thank you!

If you could post them links tigers, I reckon I'm gonna lock some stuff in.

I would like to co-ordinate it with some gigs of bands that won't tour here (Paul McCartney, Sloan, etc), does anyone know if there's a good gig guide to keep an eye on, in Engrish?

tigers said about 2 months ago:

Sorry - forgot. Will do the moment I'm back in front of a computer.

tigers said about 2 months ago:

Google 'Tokyo Gig Guide'. Good for the bigger tours, not so much for small gigs.

125 of 129 bigdaddykane said about 2 months ago:

Thank you x 2!

tigers said about 2 months ago:

Apologies for the delay. Exams/work keeping me from doing any extra-curricular activities...

Places I've stayed that I like and would recommend: TOKYO AirBnB is the go, I reckon. I've stayed in a few hotels too (including the hilton & park hyatt) and I wouldn't bother again. Hilton was average at best and Park Hyatt wasn't as good as the hype. I wouldn't have done either had I not been offered a super cheap rate. Won't bother again, even at that rate. For a first timer, stay around Shinjuku/Yoyogi/Harajuku/Shibuya area. This Harajuku AirBnB has been great for me on 3 occasions. It's a tiny apartment, but that's all I've ever needed. Stayed by myself and with a partner. Great location, right in the heart but still quiet at night. Walking distance to Shibuya, 3 mins on train to Shinjuku. I find Yoyogi a little less hectic. I've stayed here by myself and here when I've been with someone else. The second one is a bit bigger and if you don't like the normal cramped Tokyo apartment vibe then maybe this one is for you. The first one is only good if you're on your own due to the small bed.

KYOTO Stayed in a couple of airBnB's and some hostels and a capsule hotel. These were the best of those: Khaosan Theatre Hostel - not to be confused with the Khaosan hostel, whch is another one they operate. I've stayed in both and the 'theatre' one is much better - location- and setup-wise. Piece hostel is a boutique hostel which I've actually never stayed in but looks rad. The only reason I didn't stay last time was that I wasn't too keen on the location, which is near Kyoto station but not really walking distance from where I usually hang out. HOWEVER, they're opening a new one on July 15 which is in a great location. I will probably try to stay there next time I'm in town. This AirBnB place was great - plenty of space and good location.

OSAKA For some reason I've only stayed in hotels in Osaka. Both I've stayed in have been great. APA Hotel Osaka is a standard business hotel. Clean, cheap, great location right near Dotonbori, Shinsaibashi and Ame-mura. $80 per night for a room last I went. Whilst I haven't been to the famous Dotonbori Hotel, I've heard it's very similar (though the same kinda room goes for about $100 a night). The other place I've stayed in Osaka was Hotel Arietta - again, about $80 a night. It was great, though a bit further away from the action than APA. Only 15 mins walk extra, but when you're hammered after a night out it makes all the difference. Mind you, these hotel prices are for 1 person. Much of the time in Japan I've found that these prices double if you have extra people. Not always, but often. Which is another reason I lean towards AirBnB's.

NIKKO You stay at Space Riverhouse. Way better than the places down near the heritage area. If you're in Nikko for 2 nights or more, it's totally worth it, and the guy who runs it drives you to and from the hostel to the main part of town. If you're into hiking/walks/outdoors-y stuff, go to Nikko and stay here. I pop up there for a bit every time I go (unless it's winter) - lovely place.

bigdaddykane said about 2 months ago:

Thanks Tiggy!

Kez said about 2 months ago:

With all the ludicrously cheap flights of this morning palaver blown over now, I think Jetstar still has their low price promotion on Japan tickets. Worth looking into if you've been thinking about it.

team ham sandwich said about 2 months ago:

Any tips for okinawa? Got a surfing weekend there late august.

k2 said about 2 months ago:

Any tips for okinawa?

Orion beer.

bigdaddykane said about 2 months ago:

Man I was THIS close to booking Tokyo last night while the Jetstar deals were still happening, but was talked into delaying it. When both my kids can watch Peppa for 9 hours on the plane, I'm all over this.

126 of 129 tigers said about 2 months ago:

Do the Jetstar direct nighttime flight BDK - they'll be asleep before you even get on the plane and wake up in the morning for the pre-landing breakfast! In theory...

bigdaddykane said about 2 months ago:

Great in theory but unfortunately no, my little one will scream and kick the chairs for 9 hours and make everyone hate me and I just cant handle that type of pressure.

poprocks96 said 4 days ago:

I've booked flights to Osaka. We'll be there 12 days. Tigers says we should base ourselves in Kyoto and just visit Osaka during the day occasionally. What do you think?

tigers said 4 days ago:

I didn't say that exactly... Just spend more time in Kyoto than Osaka. 2-3 nights in Osaka, a week in Kyoto, then maybe Nara or Takayama. YOU NEVER PAY ATTENTION TO ME

golden-shower said 4 days ago:

I was there in July.

I found that Kyoto would probably be a better base but I would still spend a few nights in osaka for sure.

Nara is worth a visit, just for that amazing temple alone. Himeji castle is closer to osaka.

poprocks96 said 4 days ago:

I don't think with the kid we can be faffed moving around all that much. Even a week here and a week there seems daunting.

golden-shower said 4 days ago:

then kyoto hands down.

tigers said 4 days ago:

Getting around is easy, and totally worth it. You could even just plan for Kyoto and Osaka and see how you feel when you get there about Nara and Himeji - both are day trips.

k2 said 4 days ago:

Nara, Kobe. Do it.

poprocks96 said 3 days ago:

Ugh! too hard to decide.

bigdaddykane said 3 days ago:

Osaka = trains to get around, Kyoto is walking and bikes. With a kid, depends on what you prefer.

tigers said 3 days ago:

Or Kyoto's bus system, which is great and easy to use...

poprocks96 said 3 days ago:

What do you think about k2 suggesting Kobe and Nara instead, tigers?

127 of 129 tigers said 3 days ago:

Both lovely places. Would I put them above going to Kyoto and Osaka instead? No. You have heaps of time and getting between Osaka and Kyoto is easy and relatively quick so I think you'd be mad to pick one over the other. I think 12 days in either is probably too long anyhow. I'd probably do all of nara, osaka, Kyoto and Kobe. They're all really close and getting around is going to be much easier than you think. But if you only want two? Kyoto and Osaka.

poprocks96 said 3 days ago:

Done.

poprocks96 said 3 days ago:

Tigers>k2

poprocks96 said 3 days ago:

I've never been this rubbish at making a decision, it's embarrassing.

GOD said 3 days ago:

I'm going next week with the kids. Pops, it's easy enough to get around, I had some issues the first time with a 2 year old, mainly because lots of train stations only had stair access so I had to either carry the whole pram with the kid in it, or fold up the pram and carry both. Nobody helped, so if you're cruising around solo with t a little one expect to get big biceps. The next time around I had a pram + skateboard thingy combo and became a fucken master at the one-handed pram fold.

poprocks96 said 3 days ago:

Time to invest in light weight stroller and portacot.

GOD said 3 days ago:

the $30 red ones from Kmart are the go. You can thrash the shit out of them

poprocks96 said 3 days ago:

Does it recline? I'm sorry for ruining this thread with boring.

GOD said 3 days ago:

not all the way, the kids just slept sitting up, but never slept long

rosevich said 3 days ago:

Osaka rules.

k2 said 2 days ago:

What do you think about k2 suggesting Kobe and Nara instead, tigers?

I didn't mean instead of, I meant stay in Kyoto and visit these places.

team ham sandwich said 2 days ago:

Two weeks in that area? Catch the train to okayama and go to Naoshima Island. Unbelievable place.

k2 said 1 day ago:

I'm taking a copy of this thread.

128 of 129 sting-bono said 1 day ago:

I think I'm the only person I know who had a miserable bland experience in Tokyo. And I did all the wacky stuff. I really admire Japanese culture but it was actually one of the least crazy and ball teasingly insane places I've been to in Asia and I've seen a lot of Asia. The tang of near death experiences at every turn was replaced by flashing lights and cute things. It made me sad.

palin said 1 day ago:

240 odd pages in Word. heading to Japan via Singapore on Wednesday. can't hurt to have some chat advice stashed on a laptop.

anok said 1 day ago:

yeah, someone should archive all the travel threads.

poprocks96 said 1 day ago:

K2 or tigers, have you saved this stuff?

k2 said 13 hours ago:

Yep. Have a copy.

bigdaddykane said 7 hours ago:

I've sent myself an email of the whole thread.

jimmy hutspah said 5 hours ago:

How can we archive all the travel threads? Can I get on an email for that?

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