Sindri & the Glacial Picnickers

TOURIST OF THE YEAR

Sindri & The Glacial Picnickers

Sin Fang made Album of the Year, Song of the Year, and is posing as the Tourist of the Year.

THE GRAPEVINE MUSIC AWARDS

Issue 01 × 2014 January 10 - February 6 YOUR FREE COPY The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2014 2

Editorial | Anna Andersen

Many Icelanders around me were pretty upset last “reports” predictions from these völvas. “I mean, ev- didn’t make it to Iceland, leaving Icelanders in the ASK YOUR VÖLVA month when the Associated Press ran a story about eryone basically knows it’s just a bunch of journalists dark, unexposed to rationalism. an “elf lobby” joining environmentalist in their strug- having fun, using their purported insight to predict The real problem with the elf story, as I Anna’s 36th Editorial gle to block road construction across a lava field. the future,” he wrote. see it, is the fact that it’s been so hammed up. Whata The story, which contained some factual Feeling unsure about this, I called the was once a quirky and enjoyable part of our cultural errors, played up the idea that Icelanders (A) believe editor of Vikan, one of Iceland’s oldest magazines, heritage has now been overplayed. We’re sick of the in elves and (B) take this belief so seriously that they which has been printing völva’s predictions since the elf story. We’re sick of having to explain it to people might halt road construction for fear of retribution 1970s. She confirmed, Vikan has always worked with who read a few lines from some international wire from the elves that supposedly have a church there real seers and the one the magazine currently works service looking for traction. somewhere. And thanks to this story or any of the elf with has been with them for the last 10 years. At the same time, the Icelandic media stories that have run in the past, people all over the Vikan was for a long time the only publi- can hardly be up in arms over the foreign media’s world now think Icelanders are a bunch of kooks. cation printing völva’s predictions and their völva is- elf stories when it runs annual “reports” from seers. The truth is though, Icelanders are a bit sue is always one of their best selling ones, if not the Isn’t that also a bit kooky? kooky and it seems to me that they don’t think any- best selling one of the year. This year, Vikan's völva thing is wrong with that until they’ve become the predicts shitty weather, two volcanic eruptions and butt of an international joke. another scandal on par with the Vodafone leak. And Take for instance the peculiar tradition perhaps she’s worth taking seriously, as she cor- that local newspapers and magazines here have rectly predicted the turmoil that we’ve seen at RÚV. TRACK OF THE ISSUE of reporting “the future.” As we round out each lap I have no idea what the other media out- around the sun, Icelandic reporters reach out to lets do, and perhaps the majority of people don’t their publication’s seer, also known as a völva, to really believe in the power of these völvas, but that gather her predictions for the coming year. doesn’t make the tradition any less kooky if you ask I’m talking magazine cover stories and me. I highly doubt the Greeks and Italians are read- articles on our most widely read news sites that ing reports from sibyl in their local newspapers. Just recount predictions from a typically anonymous imagine if the New York Times or LA Times were source, who may or may not have the ability to see reporting this kind of stuff. the future. What’s more, media outlets, including The best explanation I’ve heard for why Iceland’s national broadcaster RÚV, report on what these “beliefs” persist in Iceland came from Mag- the völvas at the other outlets are reporting. nús Skarphéðinsson, the headmaster of Iceland’s Elf At this point in an earlier draft of my edi- School. He believes that it has to do with the fact that torial, our Editor-in-Chief Haukur S. Magnússon left this nation was long an isolated island in the mid- me a comment suggesting that I was overstating dle of the North Atlantic. Thus, the Enlightenment, the reality of the situation by writing that the media which spread through Europe in the 18th Century,

We thought we’d explain. We’re ripping the idea off from Sin Fang: “Young Boys” the Icelandair magazine. Go read that magazine if you (often written as ae) is pro- What’s The Deal nounced like the i in tide. can. It’s free. æ Download NOW at www.grapevine.is We like spelling things using Icelandic letters like With Those Crazy ‘æ’ and ‘þ’ and also those crazy accents over the vowels. From Sin Fang's third solo album, 'Flowers,' Like Icelandair’s inflight magazine—IcelandairInfo—says, (often written as d) is pronounced Icelandic Letters Yo? the Icelandic language can use accents on all of the like the th in there (which we awarded Album of the Year, see page vowels, making them look all unique, like this: á, é, í, ó, ð 16), the song “Young Boys” embodies the crazy ú, ö, ý (the accent also changes the pronounciation of addictive indie vibe Sin Fang is known for. The the letters. The á in “kjáni” sounds quite different from simple chorus about young boys smoking in the the a in “asni”, for instance). We also have an additional (often written as th) is pronounced ÐðÞþÆæÖö woods is repeated through the song, overlaid three letters. As IcealandairInfo notes: þ like the th in think” with colourful arrangements of tambourines, harmonies, a subtle electric bass, keys and nu- Here Is Your Kreisí Æcelandic Frase For Þis Issue! merous other effects. This song will make you “Fyrirgefðu, en er ekki kominn tími á að (Fyr-ir-gev-thu, en err eh-kke, come-in team- Pardon, isn't it time to throw out your want to put on the oldest clothes you still fit into and think back to the days when your childhood henda jólatrénu” eh ow ath hen-dah yol-ah-tr-yeah-n-eh?) Christmas tree? turned into your teens.

Contributing Writers Founders: Björn Teitsson Photographers: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, Bob Cluness Alísa Kalyanova / www. alisakalyanova.com Hörður Kristbjörnsson, Burke Jam Magnús Anderssen / www.magnusandersen.co Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, Davíð Roach Nanna Dís / www.nannadis.com Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, Eiríkur Smith Valur Gunnarsson Helgi Hrafn Guðmundsson Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík Dr. Helgi Pjeturss Sales Director: The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. www.grapevine.is James Rice Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] Monthly from November through April, and fortnightly from May [email protected] Joe Shooman Helgi Þór Harðarson / [email protected] til October. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole Published by Fröken ehf. John Rogers or in part without the written permission of the publishers. The www.froken.is Kári Tulinius Distribution manager: Reykjavík Grapevine is distributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, Member of the Icelandic Travel Industry Association Óli Dóri [email protected] Egilsstaðir, Seyðisfjörður, Borgarnes, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key www.saf.is Óskar Bragi Stefánsson locations along road #1, and all major tourist attractions and tourist Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 25.000 copies. Paul Fontaine Proofreader: information centres in the country. Vera Illugadóttir Jim Rice You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored (no articles Editor In Chief: in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions Haukur S Magnússon / [email protected] Journalist Listings: expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’). Larissa Kyzer / [email protected] [email protected] Editor: Anna Andersen / [email protected] Journalist & Listings editor Submissions inquiries: Photographer: Axel Sigurðarson Tómas Gabríel Benjamin / [email protected] [email protected] Editorial: www.axelsig.com

+354 540 3600 / [email protected] Editorial Interns Subscription inquiries: TOURIST OF THE YEAR On The Cover: Sindri Már Sigfússon Make-Up: Ásdís Gunnarsdóttir Alex Baumhardt / [email protected] +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Sindri Advertising: & The Glacial Ben Smick / [email protected] Picnickers Thanks: JÖR & Þórunn Guðnadóttir +354 540 3605 / [email protected] General inquiries: +354 40 3610 Art Director [email protected]

Sin Fang made Album of the Year, Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] Song of the Year, and is posing as Publisher: the Tourist of the Year.

Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] THE GRAPEVINE Design: MUSIC AWARDS

Issue 01 × 2014 +354 540 3601 / [email protected] January 10 - February 6 Hrefna Sigurðardóttir / [email protected] YOUR FREE COPY

UNIQUE EXPERIENCE AND A VIEW LIKE NO OTHER Kolabrautin is on 4th floor Harpa Reservations A dinner or lunch at the elevated fourth floor of Harpa concert hall is a destination +354 519 9700 in itself. Relax and enjoy fine Italian cuisine complemented with a spectacular [email protected] www.kolabrautin.is panoramic view of Reykjavík and the surrounding horizon. E&Co.

ICELANDIC WOOL WORN OUT FOR CENTURIES

We ofer clothing & other merchandise that reminds us of good old Iceland

Verið hjartanlega velkomin í verzlanir okkar. Geysir Skólavörðustíg, Akureyri og Geysir Haukadal. www.geysir.com Sími 519 6000. Issue 1 — 2014 Say your piece, voice your opinion, send 4 your letters to: [email protected] Sour grapes & stuff by the sea and a delicious lobster MOST AWESOME LETTER Carol Plunkett quirky and awe-inspiring cake. Hope you like the poem, though I can't hope to do it justice. at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri I gazed in awe and wonder as God's pyrotechnics played Across a pale Icelandic sky with crescent moon displayed Loved your newspaper too - it sums up the Icelandic charac- The ground a frozen wasteland and the sea a crystal braid ter beautifully! And all the while Aurora danced her dance of light and shade Carol & Mike Plunkett I walked across a snowy hill whose summit tipped the sky Southampton I gasped aloud at shooting stars that flared a last goodbye England The constellations windows to a world beyond my eye And all the while Aurora trailed her tendrils from on high Dear Carol and Mike- Though I was just a young girl then the memory charms me still It’s true that visitors often tell us that they’ve had amazing When I traversed the snowy wastes and tramped atop that visits to Iceland—something we never tire of hearing— hill but none of us can remember the last time we got a poem And braved the biting midnight wind to stand for good or ill specially composed to commemorate the occasion. Were you Perchance to see Aurora dance the dance she's dancing still a poet before your visit? In either case, we hope the muse *** stays with you into the future. At the seashore the giant lobster makes I'm sure you get this all the time, but we found our visit a

Spör ehf. mind-bending experience and one that we have raved about Lyrically, appointments with mermaids and landlubbers. non-stop to anyone who would listen. The object of our visit, He waves his large claws, attracting those desiring the magical Aurora, was just the icing on a very unique, The Grapevine to be in the company of starﬁsh and lumpﬁsh. Dear member of the Grapevine crew, Dear Rainer-

this summer your magazine published an article about the You must have a sixth sense! We checked in with Jóhanna Heimaey volcano eruption in 1973, especially about a docu- Ýr Jónsdóttir, one of the documentarians who made “My mentary “My unfamiliar home – Accepting the Volcano”. It unfamiliar home,” just after you sent your email, and she was told there that the DVD would be available in English told us that only hours before, she had sent the film abroad “later this year”. Maybe you could tell me whether the DVD for DVD production and packaging. The DVD, which was Reykjavík is out now, and where you can order it. completed in mid-December, has subtitles in English, Span- ish, German, Danish, Swedish, and Norwegian. There isn’t It was very interesting to read your magazine and learn a website where you can buy the documentary yet, but take a Stokkseyri more about the country and the issues discussed at that look at the Facebook page (Útlendingur heima - uppgjör við Eyrarbakki - The Seashore restaurant time. And your “best of Reykjavík” list offered ideas at least eldgos) for purchase and contact information. for the next twenty visits. > Only 45 minutes drive from Reykjavík Do you usually have such prescient timing? Is there any- Many thanks and kind regards, thing we should know? Eyrarbraut 3, 825 Stokkseyri, Iceland · Tel. +354 483 1550 Rainer Krems Speculatively, Fax. +354 483 1545 · [email protected] · www.fjorubordid.is Hohen Neuendorf, Germany Summer opening hours: Mon - Sun 12:00 to 22:00 The Grapevine

Hello Everyone, Thank you very much.

First off, I enjoy your website very much. As a Canadian Sincerely, male of forty eight, I probably don't hit your demographic, but I stumbled upon your site and love it. John Dickins My question is, are there any jobs for profes- sionals from Canada ? I worked in media, television and broadcasting. I started in sales right out of University, then Hey John, marketing and advertising for a number of years, before become the Director of Operations. It’s difficult for Canadians and Americans to get a work I have been researching Reykjavik and Iceland permit. Unfortunately... Not sure what to tell you. Your best for a month now, and I truly would love to relocate. I would bet is probably to marry an Icelander. enjoy your input. The Grapevine

MOST AWESOME LETTER TWO FREE PAIRS OF WOOLLEN SOCKS!

Yes, this lovely prize will keep your feet warm and cosy throughout your stay in Iceland and in any subsequent places you might go that sometimes get cold. And these aren’t just any old woollen socks either, these are the colourful, wonderful, extra-long kind from Geysir.

Congratulations to this issue's MOST AWESOME LETTER. Drop us a line at letters@ grapevine.is to ﬁnd out how to collect those free socks! And if you’re in the market for some socks come next issue, why not write us a wonderful reader letter to that same address. Like Axl Rose said: “It’s so easy!”

Þingholtsstræti 2-4 - 101 Reykjavík » Fákafen 9 - 108 Reykjavík » Austurvegi 21 - 870 Vík » icewear.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2014 6

Old Year | In review What We Featured 2013: Year In Covers — Anna Andersen

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5 6 7 8 9 10 11

12 13 14 15 16 17 18 that were responsible for driving Iceland’s someone else yelled at us some more, pre and post-crash man with the mes- Every year, The Grapevine prints 18 issues that get heavy industry agenda. The environmen- claiming 'real' magazines would never sage, “the more things change, the talist was photographed taking refuge in interview a character like Siggi. Inciden- more they stay the same.” We got a distributed around Iceland and uploaded to the web. a moss covered lava field in Reykjanes tally, Rolling Stone magazine featured an number of people, including former where there are plans to harness more interview with him this month. Prime Minister Jóhanna Sigurðardót- Looking through the last batch, it’s difficult to fathom geothermal energy to power more heavy tir, to reflect on the times. Jóhanna’s how we pulled some of them off in time. A lot of late industry. The cover of issue 11 may or may not still contribution was her first public state- be around on a wall in Vesturbær ment since the spring elections. We nights were spent at the office. A lot of coffee was con- We turned 10 this issue! For our 11 (it was at the time of writing). In thought that was pretty neat. 7 birthday cover, we gathered 10 the span of a few days, street artist Sara sumed. A lot of sleep was lost. It was one hell of a ride. people who have graced Grapevine covers Riel created our cover, text and tags and Our annual Iceland Airwaves issue came We hope you enjoyed the read! in each of the past 10 years—from Megas all, which we then photographed and out with three covers this year. in 2003 to Hallgrímur Helgason in 2012. printed. The image is one she made for 16 We picked three musicians and This issue also corresponded nicely with múm's 'Toothwheels,’ the awesome first asked them each to pick another musi- As publications around us invari- DesignMarch festival. This year they were our third annual Bar Guide, for which single off their 2013 LP, and the full size cian who they were excited about, and 1 ably honour some kind of “Person graphic designers Ármann Agnarsson we inevitably received some angry phone cover mural idea is borrowed from Phila- then we photographed them together at of the Year,” we—as the unabashed tour- and Jónas Valtýsson (yep, they’re the guys calls. Our biggest mistake this year was to delphia's wonderful Kurt Vile. The cover various Airwaves venues. As usual, we ist rag that we are—decided to honour a on the cover). Inside, we featured a pullout confuse Ob-La-Di Ob-La-Da for a karaoke corresponded nicely with the feature ar- made a big pullout featuring all kinds of “Tourist of the Year.” The winner was im- chock full of design-related stuff includ- bar. It is not! ticle by Kirsten O’Brien, which covers the material related to the festival, including mediately obvious to us. It was the woman ing our annual Design Awards. City’s war on graffiti and the surrounding bigger interviews with the cover stars: who unknowingly took part in the search For some reason a water polo player debate, along with interviews with múm composer Daníel Bjarnason (pictured for herself after getting “lost” in Iceland’s With the upcoming parliamentary 8 from California who likes strong and Sara Riel herself. with Margrét Rán Magnúsdóttir of Vök), highlands. The search went on for hours 4 election, we decided to feature a men decided to intern with us this spring. Jófríður Ákadóttir of Samaris (pictured before she realised that she was in fact massive election guide in our fourth issue. He walked into the office on his first day As a number of popular music venues in with Arnljótur Sigurðsson of Ojba Rasta) the missing Asian woman described as This involved hounding would-be can- completely star struck after having just town closed to make room for new and Högni Egilsson of Hjaltalín (pictured 20-30-years-old, 160 cm tall, wearing didates from an unprecedented number seen Hafþór Björnsson get into his car in 12 hotels to accommodate the ever-in- with Steinunn Harðardóttir as DJ Flugvél dark clothing and carrying a small light- of parties—20 at one point!—until they downtown Reykjavík. Of course he was creasing number of tourists, we thought og Geimskip). coloured handbag. Cue all kinds of clever turned in answers to our rather lengthy raving about Iceland’s strongest—the it was high time to explore the pros and international headlines about the woman survey. For our cover, we got heads from world’s third strongest man (yep, we to- cons of this new reality. The cover image Post-Airwaves, we thought it made sense who found herself in Iceland. all 13 parties to show up for a cover shoot, tally knew who he was talking about and depicts a fictitious skyline with, yes, a to make a “Hangover Issue.” The This issue we also launched our first which photographer Baldur Kristjáns exe- didn’t have to Google him). Before he left, few extra skyscrapers and hotels, but just 17 feature article itself is about drug annual Music Awards, which were a really cuted wonderfully. A 14th party joined the our rare Grapevine jock wrote a feature on imagine if we let the tourism industry and alcohol rehab in Iceland, which is long time coming. fray, but was a day late and a dollar short Hafþór and his bid to return the Strongest grow as recklessly as we did the financial pretty fascinating from an American’s for the shoot. Sorry, Sturla Jónsson. Man title to Iceland. Hafþór didn’t end up industry… perspective. In Iceland, it seems that ev- 2 For our second issue of the year, taking the title this year, but he did score eryone has either gone or knows some- we planned to finally print a cover 5 Given how obsessed Iceland is with an acting gig, playing “The Mountain” in In anticipation of Emiliana Torrini’s new body who has gone to inpatient drug or story on Iceland’s elusive Jewish com- the arguably kitschy Eurovision season four of Game of Thrones. 13 album, ‘Tookah,’ Editor-in-Chief alcohol treatment. In fact, Iceland has the munity, but a rather big event derailed Song Contest, it was about time we fea- Haukur S. Magnússon met with per capita record with 10% of all living our plans a day or two before print: The tured it on a cover. After some hesitation, Graphic designer Siggi Odds illustrated her to discuss her music, her lyrics, her males over the age of 15 having sought European Free Trade Association (EFTA) this year’s contestant Eyþór Ingi Gunn- the cover of our annual Best of life and times. Icelandophiles otherwise such treatment. How that came to be is ruled in Iceland's favour in the long-dis- laugsson agreed to pose for the cover. As 9 Reykjavík issue this time around. unacquainted with Emiliana’s music have a pretty remarkable story. After this issue puted Icesave case. Quickly, we wrote an you can see, he’s about to get splashed in The issue itself is much like past Best of likely heard her track “Jungle Drum,” came out, we received a phone call from analysis of what Iceland’s victory meant the face with water (…okay, you’re going Reykjavík issues, which are kind of a pain which featured in an Inspired by Iceland an angry tour operator who was disgusted and, in an attempt to tie this to our feature to have to use your imagination), as our to make, as they involve lots of arguing video that went viral in 2010. with our cover and the fact that we were on the Jewish community, we went with hopeful (and nationalistic) island nation about pizza and hamburgers. making Icelanders out to be a bunch of al- a David and Goliath motif on the cover. of 320,000 fails to win, again. In our inter- Following the release of Ragnar Axels- coholics. That was probably the last really Holding Gordon Brown’s bloody, goliath- view with Eyþór, he said that Eurovision When our former designer, hacker and son’s new book ‘Behind The Moun- angry person who yelled at us last year. size head is Iceland’s President Ólafur turns Icelanders into monsters. self-proclaimed maker of the in- 14 tains,’ we thought we’d interview Ragnar Grímsson, who stood up to the 10 ternet Páll Hilmarsson asked us if the man—better known as Rax—whose Phew, the last issue of year! This feature UK (and the Netherlands) by refusing to For this issue’s feature, author An- we wanted to feature an interview with photos have featured prominently in the was born out of a column written by Árni sign those two Icesave bills (that I’m not 6 dri Snær Magnason—who is per- “Siggi, the hacker,” we didn’t hesitate to daily newspaper Morgunblaðið over the Árnason, an Icelandic expat living going to go into the details of). There was haps best known for his book ‘Dreamland say yes. This 21-year-old Icelandic boy last few decades. Our summer journalist, 18 in London who recently discovered some concern that the illustration by our – A Self Help Manual For A Frightened had become infamous for two-timing Ingibjörg Björnsdóttir, chatted with him that most of Iceland’s classic Christmas Hrefna Sigurðardóttir was too graphic, if I Nation’ and more recently ‘LoveStar’— Wikileaks’ Julian Assange as an FBI in- about his passion for documenting Icelan- songs had former lives as Italian love recall correctly. updated an Icelandic article he wrote formant and we were curious to hear his dic nature and remote places in the Arctic, songs. The idea grew, the column was three years earlier called, “Í landi hinna side of the story. Months later, someone which he fears future generations won’t scrapped and Árni wound up doing an ex- As has become tradition, we once klikkuðu karlmanna” (“In the Land of the from Wikileaks harassed us in the middle be able to enjoy. tensive interview with the legendary pop 3 again relinquished control of our Mad Men”). It seemed especially timely of the night at a bar in Reykjavík for giving star responsible for this and a lot more. third cover of the year to the designers to be printing it given that the nation had this controversial character a voice. When This issue marked the five-year an- His name is Björgvin Halldórsson and behind the identity of Reykjavík’s annual just voted back into power the very parties it later came out that Siggi was convicted niversary of the financial crisis. that’s him on the cover with the pasta and for sexually assaulting a 17-year-old boy, 15 On the cover we tried to show a red wine. .is emidi.is

FRENCH FILM FESTIVAL AT HÁSKÓLABÍÓI JANUARY 17TH-30TH 2014

af.is The Reykjavík Grapevine In October, Reykjavík Mayor Jón Gnarr announced that he would not seek re-election at the end of his IssueThe 1 — 2011 Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 17 — 2013 term. “I’m simply not a politician," he said. "I’m a comedian.” Reykjavík: soon to be a little less punk rock. 8

New8 Year | Happy Birthday, Jesus 2013 Mayor’s Address YEAR IN NEWS by Larissa Kyzer — By Jón Gnarr, Mayor of Reykjavík

heard from in thirty years. forming miracles and such right up until January Then, he suddenly sprang forth and the moment he ascended to the heavens The year started with dubious predic- made a big racket. He started by turn- right in front of his friends and followers. tions from the outside world—for one, ing lots of water into a most decent wine. Some people believe Jesus really ex- that Iceland was “a seething caul- Nobody knows for sure why he did that. isted. Others do not believe that. I think dron on the verge of going kabloo- It happened at a party in a town called that maybe 70% of his story is exag- ey,” (that from The New York Times), Cana. And that town is probably best geration, misinterpretation or even pure and for two, that the country’s eco- known for not existing. And he started fabrication. Maybe Jesus was a Chinese nomic woes were largely over (that talking and spouting all kinds of ideas Taoist that arrived to Galilee via the Silk mad good reporting courtesy of the about everything. He was really mad at Route? Maybe he was a slave. I do not BBC). But there were some legitimately some people, but really good to others, believe that he performed any miracles. impressive Icelandic accomplishments. especially underdogs. He was angriest I think it’s likelier that he was gay. It Namely, Vilborg Arna Gissurardóttir with those who bullied others through maybe doesn’t make a big difference. became the first solo Icelander to their authority or in the name of some His story is still important. It is about a reach the South Pole. religion or other. He said that no law or nobody who starts speaking up in a soci- religious doctrine was above love. Love ety that’s controlled by bullies. And even February is all you need. And he also started cur- though the bullies have, through the You’ve heard of the boy named Sue? ing people of all sorts of ailments using course of history, changed the story and What about the girl named…girl? miracles: blind people, people with lep- falsified facts to make themselves look Fifteen-year-old Blær Bjarkardóttir rosy, paralysed people and others! He better, it still retains a core of truth. The won the right to be recognized also drove away a few demons. story of Jesus is the story of the battle be- by her given name, rather than the His best-known miracle is probably tween good and evil. It is the same story placeholder that had been on all her when he raised his friend Lazarus from as the one in 'Star Wars,' 'Matrix' or official documents since birth: “Stúlka,” the dead. He was so bummed out when 'Lord of the Rings.' Jesus is as much of a or “Girl.” Her name had been rejected by he heard Lazarus had died that he just Luke Skywalker as he is a Neo or Frodo. the Naming Committee on the grounds up and decided to raise him from the The story is the story of the person that it was a boy’s name. The Reykjavík dead. Of course, Lazarus was like a zom- and her conflicts with other persons and District Court ruled this month in her bie for the first few days after his resur- villains, but not the least her battle with favour. rection, but he soon got better. herself. Perhaps not much has changed Jesus kept walking around and giv- over the past 2014 years. The bullies are March ing sermons. A lot of the sermons were still in control, and Bethlehem is an occu- With Easter afoot, chocolate company kind of incoherent, but he was assertive pied territory. All those who provoke the Nói-Sírius went into overdrive, produc- and determined. And slowly, he amassed bullies’ regime are mocked and crucified. ing 600,000 chocolate eggs for the a group of followers. He picked twelve of Just like the Terminator, Jesus prom- season. Spring also revealed a slightly them to be his assistants, and they trav- ised, in the end, that he would be back. more sinister craving in the countryside: elled around with him and spent every But unlike the Terminator, he hasn’t hidden cameras discovered that Hörður Sveinsson waking moment by his side. They did made good on his word. Not yet. Or has Icelandic sheep often prey on bird not receive a salary, but he called them he? Maybe he’s back. Maybe he’s in isola- nests, ravenously devouring whimbrel apostles. They were like interns. How- tion in a US prison, a repressed woman eggs. While carnivorous sheep have not A total of 2014 years have now passed since Jesus ever, it doesn’t seem like they learned a in Saudi Arabia or under house arrest in (yet) seriously damaged Iceland’s bird lot, as none of them wrote anything of China. Or maybe he’s a persecuted ho- population, another species went ex- was born in a barn in the town of Bethlehem, Pal- their experiences or became famous for mosexual in Russia. tinct: The Rare Icelandic Billionaire. knowing Jesus. Maybe Marilyn Monroe was Jesus? There had once been as many as six estine. This is why we celebrate New Year’s Eve. His family thought he was crazy We took her, humiliated her, disgraced billionaires in Iceland, but as of March, Actually, archaeologists said that the town of Beth- and wanted to lock him up. But his her and crucified her, to great applause. “The Last Billionaire,” Björgólfur Thor fans wouldn’t hear of it! He had many And then rewrote her history. We abused Björgólfsson, had relocated to the UK. lehem is but one thousand years old. That does not good friends, but also a few powerful her and then turned her into a sex sym- matter in this context, however. This is a year-end enemies. This inevitably happens when bol. She suffered the same fate as Je- April someone stands up to bullies. Then, sus—underdogs usually don’t stand a Parliamentary elections held this annal, not a scholarly article in some boring jour- when he started insinuating that he was chance outside of stories and movies. month ushered in quite a few changes. nal of anthropological studies. the son of god, that insulted a lot of very Frodo would have never prevailed in Prime Minister Jóhanna Sigurðardóttir religious people. When he then claimed reality. The ring would have swallowed and her party, the Social Democratic that he was not only the son of god, but him whole, like it did Marilyn and Jesus, Alliance, were voted out of power and Little is known about Jesus anyway, nounced that a great man was born. god itself, they had enough. He was ar- and Sauron would have ruled Middle replaced by a majority coalition gov- except that for three or four years he One would assume that any child born rested and crucified and killed. Earth, as he does in most places. ernment shared by The Progressive walked around with a few guys and made under such circumstances would have One shouldn’t talk a lot about mat- Why do we always root for the under- Party and The Independence Party, all kinds of fuss about love, told various its youth documented by its parents, ters that concern faith and religion. That dog in fiction, but vote for the bullies in led by Sigmundur Davíð Gunnlaugsson. parables, performed a few miracles and relatives and even the authorities. But usually ends badly. History has proven real life? I do not understand that. May- got killed. Getting killed isn’t an entirely it was not. There are no records of Je- that. Indeed, faith is faith, not certainty, be just because they are bullies and will May unusual fate for those who like to talk a sus’s youth. We know nothing of his and cannot be refuted by logic—and bully us if we don’t? In May, not one, but two, Icelanders lot about love and that kind of stuff. first words or when he started walking. least of all by a different form of faith. Here’s hoping for a bully-free new broke records scaling Mount Everest: Jesus’s birth occurred in a rather un- None of his childhood drawings have When people try that, that’s when all hell year! fifty-year-old Ingólfur Geir Gis- usual manner; unknown stars twinkled been preserved. We have no knowledge breaks loose. in the sky and angels floated between of how he matured or how he fared in Even though Jesus had been killed, houses and talked to people. Respected school or in his day-to-day interactions. he soldiered on. He was unfazed by his Continues over wise men showed up in town and an- Nada. He just disappeared and wasn’t death and continued talking and per-

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Iceland | For Dummies 2013 YEAR IN NEWS So What're These Elves Continued... surarson, who became the oldest Icelander to climb Everest, and I Keep Hearing About? Leifur Örn Svavarsson, who became the first Icelander to scale the North ridge route.

— by Kári Tulinius Illustration by Megan Herbert May also saw the first murder of 2013 (Iceland averages two murders a year).

The long answer is that it has been reported by the And woohoo! Iceland was on The Simpsons! Sigur Rós performed the Associated Press, and subsequently hundreds of media theme tune! Björk blinked! There were outlets around the world, that opposition to a proposed lopapeysur and Northern Lights and elves! road in the Reykjavík suburb of Garðabær is driven by June a belief that it will disturb areas Icelanders consider to SUMMER! Wait, not yet. There were 90 less hours of sunshine in Reykjavík in be the elf homes. The short answer is: AAAAARGH! June than there had been for the last Oh hell no! Please no questions about goddamn elves! decade of Junes.

TV personality Sindri Sindrason and his Sorry, it's in the contract. Anybody husband announced that they adopted who writes about Iceland in Eng- dents will not discount the possi- a daughter, Emilía Katrín, the previous lish has to write about elves. bility outright. In a 2009 survey, year, making them the first same-sex only thirty-two percent felt com- couple in Iceland to adopt a child. I thought I signed up to write fortable discounting the idea that Adoption for same-sex couples has hard-hitting political commen- humanoid creatures lived inside been legal since 2006. tary, but alright then. The thing is rocks and were magic. that the amount of time Iceland- July ers spend thinking about elves Which I suppose is much sillier SUMMER! Nope, not yet. Not since is dwarfed by the amount non- than thinking that there's a big 2002 had Reykjavík seen a colder, Icelanders spend thinking about bearded man in the sky. rainier July. it. In Iceland elves are a bit like Morris dancing is in England: Bringing religion into this only Ryan Gosling landed (Hey, Iceland), Nearly everyone has heard of it, confuses the issue. As Professor coming to our shores to work with but only a hardcore few give it Terry Gunnell of the University of editor (and filmmaker) Valdís much thought, and most people Iceland, an expert on this subject, sor Gunnell, only 8 percent of the with old, male elves who have Óskarsdóttir on his directorial debut, think it is only a myth. explained in a 2009 interview population say they do believe in been made to look like the stolen ‘How to Catch a Monster.’ with Danish newspaper Berling- elves, so there are just a whole lot human baby by magical means. Now that you mention it, I've never ske, Icelanders who believe in of fence-sitters who refuse to be These kinds of stories exist all Six MPs put forth a proposal known anyone who's seen Morris elves consider it wholly distinct pinned down on whether they do over northern Europe, from the to grant whistleblower Edward dancing in person, only on TV. from any religious belief. The believe in elves or not. Though it British Isles to Scandinavia, even Snowden Icelandic citizenship. Icelandic term for superstition, is easy to suspect that the elf-ag- popping up as far south as Spain. However, discussion was halted over It is true that belief in elves has a "hjátrú," is perhaps useful here as nostics are only a raised eyebrow Icelandic elves are not that differ- summer, and later put to rest under US long history in Iceland, which is it literally means "side-belief." away from saying they do not be- ent from other such mythological demands that Snowden be arrested and also the case in most of Northern lieve. beings. immediately extradited should he step Europe, with belief in fairies and So half of Iceland is in a relation- foot in Iceland. other fey folk being common all ship with God, but bangs an elf on It's hard to say you believe in So, what about that road that's over the British Isles, Germany the side? something when someone raises an being protested against... does that August and Scandinavia. But nobody eyebrow at you, especially when have anything to do with elves? By August, it was official: summer has ever written an article about Your point went astray there. Ice- it's something you don't think didn't make it to Iceland this year. whether Autobahn construction landic belief in elves is similar to much about. No. The area has cultural value August was 1.2 C degrees colder than has been halted in Schleswig- the belief in UFOs. According to because Jóhannes Kjarval, Ice- it has been for ten years running, and it Holstein because someone a survey last fall that the polling And there you have the crux of land's most important 20th Cen- rained. A lot. We were sad. Gallup polls thought they saw Der Erlkönig on firm YouGov did for Huffington the matter. Icelanders do not re- tury visual artist, worked there conducted this month showed that the the outskirts of Lübeck. post: "48 percent of adults in the ally think much about elves. It a lot, painting lava rocks. And it majority of Icelanders wanted to United States are open to the idea is something you learn about in has many beautiful areas and bird continue with EU accession talks. Don't surveys show that a majority that alien spacecraft are observ- school, but Icelanders more often habitats, so it is also of natural Nevertheless, Minister of Foreign of Icelanders believe in elves? ing our planet—and just 35 per- encounter elves of the Tolkien- value. The protests have nothing Affairs Gunnar Bragi Sveinsson cent outright reject the idea." kind than the well-dressed, rock- to do with elves. Please do not disbanded Iceland’s negotiation Sort of yes, sort of no. Surveys dwelling, baby-snatching Icelan- ask me about them again. Pretty committee to EU, effectively halting an consistently show that Icelanders, Yeah, but only a small number of dic type. please. With sugar on top. application which had been four years when asked repeatedly by strang- those Americans are true believers in the making. ers on the phone who could be in UFOs. Wait.. baby-snatching? anyone, even crazed elf-worship- pers, if they would completely And that is the case with Iceland- Yes, Icelandic folklore is full of rule out the existence of elves, a ers and elves too. According to a tales about changelings. Elf-wom- Continues over little bit more than half of respon- 2007 survey conducted by Profes- en steal babies and replace them

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OR The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2014 12

News | Brief 2013 The News Is Getting Briefer YEAR IN NEWS September Prime Minister Sigmundur Davíð 2013: Record layoffs at Iceland’s National met US President Barack Obama on the latter’s way to the G20 Summit. The PM later referred to Obama as Broadcasting Service “really likable,” although that might just be because Obama didn’t laugh (too — By Tómas Gabríel Benjamin much) at his mismatched shoes. Yep, our prime minister met Obama further cuts down the line. wearing one black Nike trainer and one “The people on the news team talk dress shoe. (Reports were later issued about the importance of informing soci- that there had been a medical reason ety and promoting democracy, the staff for the gaffe, but perhaps it was just SD at RÁS 1 talk of upholding culture,” Páll expressing a little sartorial sass.) said, “but our charter binds us to do all of it—inform, educate and entertain.” Thus October he defended his decision to fire staff from Minister of Finance Bjarni Benediktsson the music, cultural and news depart- unveiled the 2014 budget proposal, ments while allowing entertainment and which a lot of people really hated. game shows that compete with shows from private commercial channels such November as Stöð 2 and Skjár 1 to stay on the air. November was a big news month in Ice- He did not believe that reducing the land, but not much of it was good. For wages of managerial staff as had been one, Tony Omos, a Nigerian asylum done in 2008 would have had any demon- seeker went into hiding under threat strable effect on the layoffs. “It might be of deportation and separation from his symbolic,” he said, “but to me, it’s just girlfriend and unborn child. His disap- farcical and I don’t buy the argument be- pearance was undoubtedly motivated by hind it.” The combined salaries of the top (mis)information about Tony’s involve- eleven executives amount to 115 million ment in a human trafficking case which Ólöf Erla Einarsdóttir ISK per year. was likely leaked to the media by an Páll embarked on the layoffs after employee of the Ministry of the Interior. speaking to numerous MPs and minis- (Shortly after, Tony turned himself in On any given weekend, Icelandic children are likely to gather around their television ters, feeling certain that the government’s and was deported on December 19.) set at seven in the morning to watch ‘Small Potatoes’ and ‘The Moomins’ on RÚV, proposed cuts would not change prior to the budget’s approval. “I’m hoping that It wasn’t a good month for privacy: over while their parents get up and make breakfast, listening to music from centuries after people have seen the measures we’ve 70,000 Vodafone customers (includ- had to take to react to the proposed state ing MPs and government ministers) past on the ‘Girni, grúsk og gloríur’ show on RÚV’s radio station Rás 1. budget as it is today,” he said, “that they were shocked that following a website will not take additional funds from us.” breach, their passwords, text messages, and personal information had been During the week, people tune in to Rás and the chair of the budget committee, worked at RÚV for a little under ten years published online. This attack was 1 to listen to programmes about the arts, who had recently been misquoted by and was sacked from Rás 2’s current af- Controversy Abounds officially the largest cyber attack in culture and social issues, to Rás 2 for RÚV. “I think an unnatural amount of fairs programme ‘Síðdegisútvarpið,’ was Iceland. news, current affairs and pop and rock money goes to RÚV,” she said, “especially not happy with Páll’s layoff methodology. Since the layoffs there have been heat- music, and to RÚV for a variety of domes- when they don't do a better job of report- “I think it was disgraceful how some of ed discussions in parliament, with To add insult to injury, Iceland's national tic and international shows, sports events, ing the news.” the most experienced members of staff the government trying to save face by team failed to qualify for the World news and films. But with recent cuts to Páll started his layoffs from the bot- were selected to be fired,” he said, “but I reducing the cuts in following drafts Cup. the service’s budget, RÚV’s program- tom up to, he said, to deliver the best wouldn’t wish it upon anyone else. I do of the state budget. The Minister of ming is sure to change. service possible with the funds available. question why so many people from the Education, Science and Culture Illugi December Thirty-nine employees of Iceland’s This meant focusing on firing low- to news teams have been let go, but not a sin- Gunnarsson said that “RÚV’s board is December began with a very sad first in National Broadcasting Service, RÚV, mid-level employees, with Rás 1 taking gle person from the marketing or adver- responsible for running the organisa- Icelandic history when police shot and were fired on the spot on November 27, the biggest hit, losing half of its staff and tising departments. I believe we should tion,” but refused to comment in par- killed a man. and 21 more people lost their jobs in the most of its music programmes. Overall, at re-evaluate how big those departments ticular about the mass layoffs. following weeks. Those laid off immedi- least 14 programmes have been discontin- need to be, and in general, if RÚV should Two members of RÚV’s board, Pétur In other, better, news, Prime Minister ately were not given the option of working ued and replaced with archival material. be competing with private channels with Gunnarsson and Björg Eva Erlendsdóttir, Sigmundur Davíð introduced the through their notice period and could not entertainment shows.” voted against Páll’s proposed measures, long-touted debt relief package or, even access their email to alert their col- A Wave Of Protests Guðfinnur is working on a Master’s with Björg stating that they were too if you prefer more cheery terminol- leagues they had been made redundant. degree in public administration, and dove vague when presented to the board. “The ogy, “the debt jubilee,” which will This marks the biggest round of lay- More than 400 people protested the layoffs straight into his exams when he was made proposal did not, for example, mention cancel household debt. The jubilee offs since RÚV was founded in 1930, outside of RÚV’s office the day after they redundant. He said he doesn’t harbour the method by which people would be incurred mixed reactions: the IMF bringing its total number of staff down were announced, claiming these dismiss- any hard feelings over being fired. “Of fired or how it would affect the program- mission chief in Iceland referred to it to 240 from 342 in 2009. This may jeop- als were premature, politically fuelled, course it’s terrible to pack your bags and ming,” she said. as “ill-advised,” while the credit rating ardise RÚV’s mission to “promote the and hollowing out a communally-owned walk out the door when you’ve worked When the reality of the budget be- agency Moody’s gave it the thumbs up. Icelandic language, Icelandic history, and organisation that plays an important role somewhere for so long that it doesn’t feel came apparent, Pétur and Björg thought Only time will tell, we suppose. Iceland's cultural heritage” and “honour in Icelandic society. like work. It’s your second home and the too much internal production had been basic democratic rules, human rights, These points where echoed by a flash people you work with become a very rich cut, in particular material relating to Yes, we’re still picking up the pieces and the freedom of speech and opinion,” mob which gathered at the Smáralind part of your life. I’m very thankful for the RÚV’s charter. “At the same time that after the crash in 2008, and part of according to its charter. shopping centre and sang “Heyr, himna time I‘ve spent with them,” he said. cultural and musical programmes were that (wait for it) is sentencing bank RÚV is to Icelanders what the BBC smiður,” a choir song commonly heard “I’ve been touched with all the mes- dropped, a gambling show has been al- executives to prison time (GASP!). is to the UK and NPR is to the US—a at funerals, and were also reiterated in sages of support I’ve gotten from strang- lowed to keep running on Saturdays,” Yes, in December, four executives of government- funded source of entertain- several Youtube videos that featured mu- ers since getting fired. Almost every- she said. “We feel the focus was com- Kaupthing bank were sentenced to ment, culture and dependable news. sicians, artists and celebrities speaking where I turn people say how much they pletely wrong and that the measures anywhere between three and a half and Through its radio stations and TV station, about RÚV’s importance in both their care about the radio.” the board agreed to were not the ones five years of prison time for financial RÚV has broadcast numerous historical personal upbringing and the cultural de- Þórir Ingvarson, an RÚV technician, implemented.” crimes dating back to 2008. All four men moments such as Halldór Laxness accept- velopment of the nation. added: “People who you had worked with On December 17, Páll resigned as are expected to appeal their sentences ing the Nobel prize for literature in 1955, Ingi Þór Ingibergsson, one of the tech- for years and practically considered family the director, citing a lack of trust from to the Supreme Court. the 1969 lunar landing, and the fall of the nicians who was fired, made a statement were suddenly gone. It was stressful, but RÚV’s board. Although some critics Berlin Wall in 1989 and the 2008–2009 during his last radio broadcast by playing we have to try to make do. We had already rejoiced at this turn of events, it has Elsewhere, two Icelanders split a record Icelandic riots. Johnny Paycheck's song "Take This Job gone through numerous cost-saving mea- left the ship sailing in turbulent waters high lottery jackpot in December, And Shove It." sures in years past, so at this point, cuts without a captain. each winning 70 million ISK. Artist The Cost Of A Balanced Brynhildur Björnsdóttir, who works inevitably mean layoffs.” Going forward, it’s unclear whether Ragnar Kjartansson sold his much- at Rás 1, will be let go in February and RÚV will be capable of honouring its lauded video installation piece, ‘The Budget is uncertain what she’ll do after that. Páll’s Defence charter. Páll himself said that RÚV has Visitors,’ to New York’s Museum Her show, ‘Leynifélagið,’ (“The Secret already become at least 25% less capable of Modern Art and the Migros Mu- The Director of RÚV, Páll Magnúson, Society”) is the only children’s radio Páll appeared on the Kastljós talk show of doing so since the crisis in 2008. The seum in Zurich, among others. RÚV preemptively laid employees off in order show currently broadcast by RÚV, and the day after the cuts were announced, charter is up for review in the New Year, director Páll Magnússon resigned from to meet 500 million ISK worth of cuts to she said teachers regularly play it during defending the layoffs. He said that it was and only time will tell whether and how his position, citing a lack of trust after the organisation suggested in the gov- the children’s lunch break. “Listening to naïve, however, to expect anything other it changes, and what effect it will have on his November layoff decision, and CNN ernment’s 2014 budget proposal, which radio stimulates children’s imagination than mass redundancies with 500 million the services RÚV provides. reminded us all that Reykjavík is a damn also includes cuts to the Icelandic Film in a way that television can’t,” she said. ISK in cuts to RÚV. “Two lines in the fi- fine place to spend the holidays. Fund and the National Hospital. The “It helps them become more proficient nancial budget can easily turn into 39 im- cuts, which equal a tenth of RÚV’s bud- in Icelandic and better prepared to speak mediate layoffs,” he said. He also rejected Cue the collective sigh of relief; it’s time get, were alluded to in August by Vigdís their mind clearly.” the idea that firing the staff had been a for a New Year. Hauksdóttir, MP for the Progressive Party Guðfinnur Sigurvinsson, who had charade to deter the government from STAY IN THE CENTER Enjoy our wide variety of feature cocktails inspired by the five first class hotels panoramic view from SKY. in the of Reykjavík Happy hour between 17:00 - 19:00 every day

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Tourist Of The Year | Award Tourist Of The Year 2013 The Glacial Picnickers Text by Anna Andersen

a full ten meters from shore. Had there been another Runners-Up: strong blast of wind (not unlikely in Iceland, as we know), they may have actually capsized, but luck was The following three tourists were strong contend- with them and they were rescued, perhaps a bit sheep- ers and we would give them plane tickets and hotel ish, but none the worse for wear. vouchers if we could, but we can’t. We can, however, For their blithe (and truly American) opti- give them GRAPEVINE T-SHIRTS! And that’s what mism, for their delightful dedication to meals al fresco, we’re going to do. for their woeful misunderstanding of the dangers inherent in Icelandic nature, for their presence of mind Tony Pandola From The States when disaster struck, and for sheer ridiculousness: I nominate the Glacial Picnickers for Tourists of the Year.

Picking them was easy but, unlike last year’s winner—who we never found because she apparently went back into incognito-mode as soon as the search for her was called off— we actually had to track these people down to award them their plane tickets and hotel voucher (as it was an official contest and all). The chances of finding them were pretty slim considering how many Americans visit us every summer. Realistically speaking, our chances were slim to none, that is, unless they weren’t really Ameri- can tourists and some of them had actually spent a Tony’s entry was sincere without being cheesy (lots good chunk of time here. If that were the case, they of cheese was thrown around in these) and it gets bo- would probably have fessed up to their friends who nus points for being by far the best piece of writing in would probably be our friends too because, well, this the batch (Tony, if you want to write for us, drop us a is Iceland. line!). Here’s an excerpted version of his entry: And just our luck (or theirs!), that was precisely “…When I reflect on our two weeks in Iceland, a the case. No sooner had we posted a link to the entry lot of things come to mind. There are the funny moon Facebook than one of our friends (and incidentally ments: like when we were parked on the side of the writers) revealed to us that these people had been er- road and that horse stuck its massive head into the roneously identified as American tourists. He put us driver’s side window of our car to probe for snacks in touch with one of them who agreed to speak to us and startled the hell out of me (much to the gut- as long as we agreed to keep their identities secret, as laughing delight of my girl); or the time I lost my flip they were (rightfully) pretty embarrassed. flop in the mud when we were searching for that hot It turns out, the story that made headlines all over spring, and I reached in shoulder-deep to retrieve it, the world had a few factual errors in it. The Glacial only to come up with someone else’s. There are the Picnickers were actually a group of five—two Ameri- people we met: like Bói, the warm and friendly man cans (one of whom had lived in Iceland for a couple who runs the Höfn airport—our flight was delayed of years), two Germans (both of whom were just vis- and he treated us to an impromptu lesson on the his- iting) and one Irish person (who is a student at the tory of Icelandic aviation, complete with personal sto- University of Iceland and has been in the country for ries and photos from his private collection; or Kristún five years). and her mother who run that café in Arnarstapi, the ones who gave us the key to their place in case we got How On Earth? too cold camping that night—we had only popped in to see if they could help me decipher the Icelandic So you’re probably wondering what we were wonder- cell phone message I was getting, and we ended up ing: How on Earth did this happen? engaged in conversation with them until well into “Let’s just say there were a few photographers the night, all of us learning a lot more about life in amongst us,” the Irish one told me over Skype. “We Iceland and the United States. And then, of course, were on a camping trip, wandering around, joking there’s the natural splendor of the country, too grand about how we could camp on an iceberg. Then we to describe. I think of all the glaciers of the Vatna- saw one a metre away from the shore and we started jökull icecap and how comparing them to that crystal taking photos of ourselves on it. One guy in the group clear piece of glacial ice I held in the palm of my hand then suggested we could have lunch on it and make a was a beautiful and necessary reminder that there is time-lapse series of photos.” no such thing as big or small in this world, only an For our second annual ‘Tourist of the Year’ award, we teamed up So they set up their picnic table and started eat- infinite and subjective spectrum of scale. ing, apparently ignoring the camera that was all the But perhaps the most appropriate story from our with Promote Iceland to make it a real contest with a real prize this while shooting photos from the shore. Not until they time in Iceland to share here is a memory from the time around. To that end, we created a website where tourists could finished eating, she told me, did they realise that their very beginning of our trip—the first day of what was camera (and the shore) looked considerably further supposed to be a five-day trek from the highlands submit their stories for a chance to win two plane tickets to Iceland away than it did when they started. to the coast. It was only a moment, but it’s a good plus hotel accommodation. Realising that the iceberg wasn’t about to float glimpse into how we approached our fifteen days of back, the trained lifeguard in the group decided to travel in the country. The weather had turned terrible swim to shore to get some rope, but he was so cold (as it does) and somehow seemed to be getting worse that he couldn’t come back for them (it is a glacial (as it also does), and we were somewhere around half- All in all, we received more than 500 entries. Not all The Glacial Picnickers lagoon after all). The iceberg had drifted 10 metres way between where we’d come from and where we of them qualified, as it was imperative to have visited from shore at that point, and they all agreed that it were heading. Iceland in 2013. And not all of them were that com- Indeed, we picked “The Glacial Picnickers,” as they would be best for him to call for some help. My girlfriend was squinting through the freezing pelling: telling us that you visited the Blue Lagoon were dubbed by whoever nominated them. Here it is, “Luckily one of us had left our phone on shore, so rain as it pelted her face, and shouting to me over the and “fell in love” with the country is hardly original. the winning entry, submitted on November 29: he could call, and eventually the Iceland rescue team wind, “What do we do now?” But some of the entries were actually pretty good, and came with a zodiac and picked us up,” she said. “Ap- “Just keep picking up litter!” I shouted back, one one stood out as a clear winner. In May 2013, a quartet of American tourists traveled parently icebergs can flip over unexpectedly. It’s actu- hand on her backpack to keep her from blowing away, Much like last year’s winner—the woman who out to Fjallsárlón, a somewhat lesser-known glacial la- ally pretty dangerous, but we didn’t know that until the other still clutching the apple core I’d picked up “found herself” many hours after being reported goon along the Southeast coast of Iceland, and decided later.” half an hour ago. You see, we were still just getting ac- “lost” in the highlands due to a bus driver’s poor to have themselves a truly memorable picnic. And not So there you have it: the story behind the tourists quainted with Iceland then, and I figured it was just counting skills—this year’s winner also happened to just in sight of the stunning lagoon—in it. On an ice who were rescued from an iceberg after they lost con- testing us. It had no reason to bother gracing us with make headlines all over the world (note: this was not floe, to be precise, because: awesome. They were pre- trol of their picnic. The photos that they sent us from sunshine and scenery yet. We had to show it some a requirement). pared for quite a feast—brought folding chairs, a table, their own rescue were a bonus to this already hilari- respect first. We had to earn it. “Eventually it has to Perhaps you recall some of these: “American tour- and a cooler—but got more than they bargained for ous story. We can’t look at them and not smile. And work!” I yelled with a laugh. “You okay?” ists having picnic on Iceland glacier rescued after it when a strong gust of wind cracked the ice away from we sort of don’t blame them for not wanting to reveal She smiled back at me. “Nobody told me ICE-land becomes iceberg and floats away - with them on it,” shore and started it drifting. their identities. would be so cold!” she joked, and we both began to “Tourists in Iceland rescued after picnic on iceberg Now, safe though it is to say that these in- laugh, pushing our way forward through the storm, goes wrong,” “Idiots try to eat dinner on iceberg, get trepid travelers had maybe not thought this plan fully Their Prize: Plane tickets for two with Ice- stumbling a few steps sideways here and there when- blown out to sea…” through, one of them nevertheless had the presence of landair, plus hotel accommodation at Reyk- ever the wind felt like making us. mind to call search and rescue before losing their phone javík Hótel Marina for three nights What makes a good tourist? Or in this case, the signal. They kept their composure, and waited. When ‘Tourist of the Year’? Well, to me, it’s a lot of things: the first rescue boat arrived, the picnickers had drifted It’s surrendering completely to the reality of the place 15 you came to experience, instead of wishing it were more like the place you came from. It’s the wisdom to know what’s out of your control (like the weather) Honourable Mentions and what’s absolutely within it (like your attitude). It’s smiling and saying hello to the hut warden, asking Shout outs to some of our favourite submissions her name and where she comes from, before asking her tomorrow’s forecast. It’s realizing that mi- for Tourist of the Year 2013 nor annoyances like flight delays are opportunities for unexpected pleasures and making new friends. —Alex Baumhardt It’s setting a good example for other travelers, shar- ing knowledge and space in your Sadcar with every hitchhiker you pass—even if it means taking down the makeshift clothesline across the backseat where you’re trying to dry your rain-soaked hiking gear. It’s leaving no trace and picking up after others in a place where negative human impact can be so obvious on the biggest and smallest of scales; from a discarded Shout out to the number of submitters who touted their having gotten naked in the wildness of Iceland as candy bar wrapper to a melting icecap. It’s keeping their unique, ‘Tourist of the Year’-winning quality (we’re looking at you Laveleye Arnaud from Belgium). your mind open enough to consider cultural and economic realities when faced with the slaughtered But you didn’t even send a photo! How can we believe you? Pics or it didn’t happen… whale you see washed up on the beach, but also keeping your heart open enough to still struggle with the emotional and environmental impact of it. It’s Shout out to the submissions we received knowing when to forget about the camera and just written entirely in French (Marie-Christine be completely present and in the moment. It’s the From France, KRATZ From France, DEMONT from foresight to see that the most uncomfortable or un- France…). Sadly, at Grapevine our French proficiency fortunate situations you find yourself in will soon ranges from spotty conversational to just a few help- be your favorite stories to relive. It’s the hardiness to ful pick-up lines. To be fair, just over 3% of the world’s push on when it’s time to push on, and the flexibility population speaks French, but trying French at an to change plans when it’s time to change plans. It’s English-language magazine in Iceland certainly was showing resilience when things don’t go your way, optimistic, and we like it! Omelette de fromage! Furthermore, Erik-Jan Vens from the Nether- Shout out to Ana María Iriarte from Colombia and expressing gratitude when they do. It’s dancing lands wrote “No. I should not be Tourist of the who met her Icelandic guy on an online dat- and hollering with joy under the sun while you’re still Shout out to the many Americans who Year. I really shouldn't. Call me anything else but not ing website. They’ve been together virtually for eight wet and shivering from the storm that just passed. couldn’t find any synonyms for “awesome.” that.” Erik-Jan, we’ll honor your wishes. months, “[It] is so hard [when you] don’t hold or kiss It’s recognizing that a place doesn’t owe you anything someone you love, because I can tell pretty sure that I simply because you worked hard, saved your money Shout out to all of the tourists who discovered LOVE that man, he is so sweet and kind with me and and bought a plane ticket. It’s the willingness to pay the Blue Lagoon. I can say I finally found the love,” Ana María says. it forward by arriving with a respectful attitude for Sounds deep, but heads up Icelandic man, she’s al- that place and its people—who’ve been there long be- Shout out to the submissions that turned the ready talking marriage and kids—at least to us… fore you came, and will remain long after you go—in “why tourist of the year?” question back at us hopes that you might be deemed worthy of the best it into a “why not?” Our next contest prompt will be: has to offer..." “Should you rub your legs in herring and jump into Ryan Gosling the North Atlantic with open wounds and a silver swimsuit?” Looking forward to your entries! Shout out to Thomas from Australia who claimed he should be Tourist Of the Year Shout out to everyone that reminded us that because he has, “the incredible luck of being a film- you can see the Northern Lights from Iceland. maker and a 22-year-old male.” Man, we know in this rough-and-tumble-world it’s not always easy being a Shout out to the person from “Potugal” who 22-year-old, white male from a wealthy, Western na- Shout out to Elena Cazzola from Italy who wrote that if she was chosen as Tourist Of the tion. We almost thought, “he’s really earned this!” said a tribe of prophetic elves told her she Year, she would start a travel blog. We hope by then and then we thought, “what the fuck?” would win. At the moment, Grapevine has no elves she has perfected the spelling of her home country. on staff. Shout out to Auliya Nur Amalina from Indo- nesia, who wrote that we should gift her Tour- Shout out to everyone who nominated their Oh god. Ryan Gosling. Ryan. Ryyyyaaaaan. ist of The Year for graduating high school and getting kid(s) as Tourist Of the Year. Too bad we read Dear Ryan. How do we love thee. Let us count the accepted into a college. We’re proud of you girl, and right through this seemingly ‘selfless’ act and we’re a ways. One, one-thousand. Two, one-thousand. Three, we’re sorry this didn’t work out, but graduation really bunch of child eating trolls. one-thousand. Four, one-thousand. Five, one-thou- doesn’t get much better than listening to Green Day’s sand. Six, one-thousand... “Wake Me Up When September Ends” on repeat for Please come back. We’ll play patty cake with you a week right? ANY TIME. Shout out to William Shearer from UK who Laura Borchert from The States Shout out to Adam Ziegenhals from United wrote in with a single line: States who wrote “Hark all ye within eyeshot!” “Because I really, really need a holiday.” We feel for Adam said that if chosen, he would “Nord out” eating you, mate. “every hot dog,” stacking “every elf stone” and that he would even film a half-assed music video of the trip to Shout out to Pooja from India who began her present to the Icelandic people. Hark Adam! We have entry with: “I didn’t want to travel to Iceland enough of those… and thanks to a bout of hepatitis, the plan came so close to getting called off.”

Shout out to the large number of people who skipped over the only submission guideline for tourist of the year—that you have to have visited After dreaming about “visiting the homeland of Shout out to Doreen Darr from USA who said Iceland in the last year to enter. We really hope that Björk” for 12 years, she finally made it happen for her that, as Tourist Of the Year, she would come someday you make it here so you can legitimately en- 30th birthday last year. And, what do you know, she outfitted in a white sun visor, “fanny pack w/water ter the contest and feel the soft touch of a copy of The ran into Björk: bottle hangin’ on the side,” backpack with sun tan lo- Grapevine in your hands. “…We were seated behind her table and I couldn't Shout out to Ganley from USA who entered as tion, bikini and a smile. We have reason to believe Do- believe the odds. I decided not to approach her and a hedgehog and included a photo of a stuffed reen was actually trying to win a trip to Disney World Shout out to Pat Wheeler from USA who vir- was happy with the moment as it was. Right as des- hedgehog. We’re glad you road-tripped the Golden and that she found our website by accident. tually spit on the single guideline of our con- sert was served, the fireworks started. I ran outside Circle, but should you even be driving? test (that you have to have visited Iceland over the past to get a better look but couldn't see anything. I then year). Words like “bummer,” “big disappointment” heard a voice next to me say, "Don't you love when you and “complaint” were thrown around, but you’ll nev- can hear the fireworks, but can't see them?" It was er get us Pat Wheeler!!! Björk and her daughter. We stood around and chatted about fireworks – having a great time. She then asked if I would like to join her down the street for a better look. OF COURSE! Running through the streets of Reykjavik with Björk and her daughter to get a better look at fireworks is something I never would have Shout out to Martijn from The Netherlands thought could happen. My trip was complete. After Shout out to all of the ‘Tourist of the Year’ sub- who confided that his girlfriend is working the fireworks ended I thanked her and finished my mitters who claimed – “but really, I’m not a in Iceland and he hasn’t seen her in awhile and he dessert. I still had 3 days left in the city and realized ‘tourist.’” Megan Scala from United States wrote that, misses her a lot and it’s really expensive to visit and… this place just doesn't disappoint – and I can't wait for “The word ‘tourist’ flashes in my mind like a panic at- what's left…” tack.” For your own health, we felt the title of Tourist From a local’s perspective, this maybe isn’t as wild Of the Year would have been the straw that broke the as it seems from the outside, but we can appreciate camels back. Or your back. that it was completely out of this world for her. Laura, we wish you all the best in 2014! The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2014 16

Music | Awards Welcome To The Grapevine’s Second Ever Annual Music Awards, Ever! Text by John Rogers

Here at Reykjavík Grapevine we love little more than Song Of The Year: chit-chatting and shit-shooting about Icelandic music. Sin Fang—Young Boys There’s rarely a moment in the office when there isn’t some new album or other on the stereo, or playing in the headphones of the various people who bring you -As a thank you for making the best song of 2013, we teamed up with the enduringly great Tapas Barinn to invite Sin Fang this fine paper as their keyboards rattle away. to a luxurious dinner party for eight at the restaurant.

We try to listen to most of the albums is a kick ass party for the victors and that come out, and review as many as their friends, though)—but each win- possible to let you know about them. ner gets something nice, be it a meal in The Grapevine team, with some in- a fancy restaurant, a day-trip into the ternational reinforcements, cover countryside, or a night in a nice hotel. every single show of the Iceland Air- It’s our way of saying a little thank waves Festival each year, and we send you in recognition of all the entertain- writers and photographers all around ment, inspiration and food for thought the country to document the myriad and conversation that musicians bring smaller events that make up Iceland’s to the inhabitants of our chilly north- thriving festival calendar. ern isle. So, it makes sense that we should Just like last year, you should feel celebrate the best music to come out free to fret and disagree with our pan- of Iceland over the last year with The el. You could even write us a letter tell- Reykjavík Grapevine music awards. ing us why (again: if it’s not an asshole It’s not like the Oscars or anything— letter, we promise to print it and every- With one of Iceland's favourite radio wheels," "Salt," "Fall," "TippTopp" and "All those chopped-up vocals, mi- there’s no red carpet ceremony (there thing). DJs on our panel, we had a wealth of "Turbulence" respectively. cro-beats, jingling bells, and the tex- knowledge on hand about which Ice- After listening through all the sug- tural layers make it very rich. But it's landic songs have proved enduringly gestions, the winner was undeniable. still a really anthemic single—an all- Album Of The Year: popular over the last twelve months. "Sin Fang's "Young Boys" is just a beau- round timeless, joyful song that never So, after we had a list of initial nomina- tifully written song," said our panel. "It seems to get old. It is truly the song of Sin Fang—Flowers tions, he whipped up a Spotify playlist crossed a lot of borders and gained the the year 2013." of the main contenders. project a whole new fan base." The year 2013 saw plenty of big Ice- "It's a strong pop song with an al- (Song of 2012: Moses landic singles, with Sigur Rós, múm, ternative edge in the sound that makes Bloodgroup, Mammút, Prinspóló it interesting," the panel further re- Hightower—Háa C) and Tilbury receiving mentions from marked, singling out the track for its our panel for "Brennisteinn," "Tooth- memorable production. Most Overlooked Album: múm—Smilewound

As a thank you for making a -As a thank you for making ALBUM OF THE YEAR, we wonderful record teamed up with Hótel Búðir to get Sin Fang a free night in "Smile- of rest and relaxation at the wonderful retreat. wound," we teamed up with our two-time best One of the most hotly contested categories head and shoulders above the rest in ful- goddamn restau- for the music awards was, of course, best filling arguably all of these criteria. "Sin rant SNAPS to album. The year 2013 saw new releases Fang really stepped up his career with invite múm to a from Sigur Rós and múm, an album each 'Flowers,'" remarked our panel. Sindri luxurious dinner from musical relatives Ólöf and Ólafur Már’s interpretation of himself through party for eight at Arnalds, and career-high LPs from home- this album comes from the artwork and the restaurant. land favourites like Mammút, Snorri Hel- visuals, performances and lyrics alike, gason, Lay Low and Bloodgroup. From the forming a complete aesthetic. With this artistically-minded edges came a genre- record Sin Fang becomes more of a co- The "Most Overlooked" category might bums, which maybe explains the lack of "Their contribution to 'the Icelandic way bending record from avant-garde stal- hesive package than ever. "Flowers" is a seem like an invitation to shine a light excitement for this one in the press. But of doing things' has made its way into a warts Ghostigital and a dazzling mashed- self-contained world, and an all-round onto a little-known band, but after dis- ‘Smilewound’ is a beautiful album with whole new generation of musicians." up debut from DJ Flugvél og geimskip. pleasure to listen to, to own and hold, and cussing a variety of artists the panel decid- great arrangements and wonderful lay- “Smilewound” is one of those records So, where to start? It's a subjective to see played live—it's like the iPad of al- ed it was one of Iceland's longest-running ered vocals. It's a cohesive album, and that deserve to be heard by many more matter pitting albums against each other, bums." collectives that had fallen under the radar surprisingly poppy for múm.” people. Go seek it out right now! especially when they differ so widely in The production values, consistency, in 2013. The record was also lauded as a posi- their processes, aesthetics and aims. The songwriting and all-around musical en- "Múm's new LP ‘Smilewound’ was tive progression for the band. "They’ve al- (Most overlooked album of panel took many factors into account. joyment factor all came into the equation. barely covered in Iceland upon its release," lowed themselves to become more playful Was this LP a real step up from the art- "Flowers" was unanimously loved by said the panel, with one member remark- with the release. múm have always car- 2012: Skúli Sverrisson and ist in question, or a brave creative leap? our panel as a truly well-crafted album, ing: "I've barely heard an Icelandic person ried some poetry with them. Their warm Óskar Guðjónsson—The Did it push forward the album format as and so it wins the Reykjavík Grapevine's mention the album. I myself was ordered sound is like a world of its own that you Box Tree) a whole, with a sense of artistic coherence album of the year award. to listen to it by a friend, and I was very can vanish into." stretching beyond the music itself? And pleasantly surprised." The band's position as ambassador for did our winner seem like it could stand (Album of 2012: The album was hailed as a welcome the scene they came from was the final the test of time? return to form. "They've found their feet factor. "Múm for me are a quintessential Of all the fine contenders, one stood Hjaltalín—Enter IV) again after a couple of hit and miss al- Icelandic band," remarked one panellist. 17

Go See Them Play Live As Soon As The Band To Remember You Can Award: Trabant Grísalappalísa

After a bit of discussion (there are a lot nation under one groove. Their singles of pretty great bands in our past), the pan- simultaneously topped the hnakki (FM el reached the conclusion that it would be 957), rocker (Xið 977), MOR (Bylgjan) and most appropriate to remember the won- “common Icelander” (Rás 2) charts. They derful TRABANT at this very moment in headlined both the Eyjar (hnakki) and time. Trabant. Oh, Trabant. Innipúkinn (artsy-fartsy types) over the At this point, a lot of you readers from same weekend. They even performed at the tourist contingent will be scratching the President of Iceland’s house in Bessas- your head wondering “wtf is a ‘Trabant’?” taðir, the first and only “amplified” musi- while locals and long-time fans of Icelan- cians to do so. dic music will have immediately started And they were pretty goddamn great humming the chorus to some of Trabant’s while doing so. As a thank you for being such a great goddamn enduring hits like "Nasty Boy" or "The Then, they just sort of faded away after live band, we teamed up with musicians' haven One," maybe reminiscing about what a releasing and touring the groundbreaking Tónastöðin to get Grísalappalísa a year's supply of wonderful time they had at Innipúkinn “Emotional” LP. guitar strings. Use them well, guys! 2004, furiously grinding along to the mu- As the panel remarked: sic as Trabant’s frontman Ragnar Kjar- “Trabant is possibly the most perfect tansson hung from the rafters, shaking pop band Iceland has produced. Melodic, With all the panellists having seen the shows and the whole scene was buzzing During the debating process for the in- his tasselled manboobs while eating fire- glamorous and playful. They also made very best Iceland has to offer at the Air- about it." augural edition of Grapevine’s music works (yes, that’s celebrated visual artist some visually stunning videos. It’s per- waves festival, there was no shortage of Their indefatigable energy and visible awards, we decided that such an event— Ragnar Kjartansson. One and the same, haps no wonder that the frontman has suggestions for the best live band. So, commitment helped win them the award. meant to celebrate the best of what’s cur- see page 24). grown to become one of Iceland’s most "shortlist" was a bit of a misnomer for the "Grísalappalísa's live performances this rently happening along with the most Trabant were formed in 2001 out successful visual artists. sprawling collection of candidates. year have been electrifying," the panel promising newcomers—furthermore of the ashes of post-rock garage heroes They dared to be different when the The panel's particular highlights in- further remarked. presented a great opportunity to look back Kanada, coming together to play a fusion world thought it had defined the Icelandic cluded Ólafur Arnalds' Iceland Airwaves "People come out of their shows laugh- and give our readers a reminder of where of electro, punk, R&B and pop. They im- sound, a great live band that left us with performance with the Reykjavík Sym- ing with happiness and full of adrenaline, those people are coming from. A chance mediately set themselves apart from other sensational songs like "Nasty Boy" and phony Orchestra, and the spectacle of the having just spontaneously broken out into to honour some of the wonderful music of local musicians by, on one hand, main- "The One." They are for sure a Band To Gluteus Maximus stage show; Skálmöld air punching, chanting, crowd surfing... our past while instilling in our readers a taining a certain joie de vivre, virility and Remember.” won a lot of praise, and Mammút also it's really joyful stuff, and it reminds us of sense of context and appreciation for how sense of humour in everything they did At a time when social cohesion and took some plaudits for stepping up their the heights that live rock 'n' roll music can we got to where we are. (everyone was all po-faced and serious fol- unity is sorely lacking, we may need Tra- live game. hit." We decided to create some sort of lowing Sigur Rós’ success)—and on the bant more than ever. Come back, Trabant! But it was youthful energy won the Indeed, Grísalappalísa is one of Reyk- ‘legacy award,’ honouring and celebrating other, being entirely unafraid to appeal We miss you! day, with poet-punk rock 'n' roll band javík’s most invigorating live bands at the greatness in our past. The BAND TO RE- to the masses, flirting with pop melodies Grísalappalísa coming out on top in the moment, the panel decreed. Go see them MEMBER! category was born, urging ev- and methods as they saw fit, which was -Haukur S. Magnússon final poll. "They were all anyone seemed as soon as you can. eryone to remember some awesome band very unusual in the underground scene to talk about in the summer," remarked or musician and dig up their music and they cut their teeth in. the panel. "They played a huge amount of (Live band of 2012: Gusgus) give it a spin. They were truly a band that united the Band To Watch: Samaris The Panel

Matthías Már Magnússon Anna Hildur Hildibrands- John Rogers

Matthías Már Magnússon is the dóttir John is a music writer for the Reyk- host of the daily music show Pop- Anna Hildur will be familiar to javík Grapevine, as well being MD pland on Rás 2 for the Icelandic many as the former face of the Ice- of the London/Reykjavík music National Broadcasting Service. His land Music Export, having since ex- agency Projekta where he manages show focuses on Icelandic music panded her mission to head up the bands, runs around Europe work- and new Icelandic bands, making Nordic Music Export office (check ing on festivals and showcases, and him a perfectly positioned expert on out their cool new project, Nordic works to publicise Icelandic musi- Icelandic music, and an ideal judge Playlist: www.nordicplaylist.com). cians and independent music gen- for the second annual Reykjavík Few people have more in-depth erally. He’s also a DJ with a monthly Grapevine Music Awards. knowledge of the players and in- slot at Kaffibarinn, and an artist, ner workings of the Icelandic scene poet and writer. than Anna. As a thank you for being so great that we feel like we need to keep an extra close eye on them, we teamed up with Reykjavík's fanciest new restaurant, Kopar, to invite Samaris to a luxurious dinner party for six at the restaurant. Our panel was adamant that the Snorri Helgason—“Autumn Skies” year 2013 had yielded an overabun- Lay Low—“Talking About The dance of wonderful Icelandic al- Weather” The shortlist for the BAND TO WATCH "Of all the new bands we talked about, Hear bums, and that it was kind of a bum- Ólöf Arnalds—“Sudden Elevation” category highlighted the stylistic breadth none of them seem quite so poised for mer that we couldn’t honour more Tilbury—“Northern Comfort” of the music emanating from Iceland over destruction as Samaris," said our panel. of them through awards and pats on Bloodgroup—“Tracing Echoes” the last year. From the popular reggae "They've been creatively convincing since the back and such. So we thought: Cell 7—“Cellf” band Ojba Rasta to the bracing metal of day one, but since signing with One Little why not make a shortlist of really Vök—“Tension” Kontinuum, and from the tireless elec- Indian, their star is really rising. They've great albums that we absolutely and DJ Flugvél og geimskip—“Glamúr í tronica output of Futuregrapher, to up been working hard playing festivals and This! strongly feel people should give a geimnum” ‘n’ coming synth-pop trip Vök, to rappers gigs around Europe, pricking up the ears spin? So we did that. And it felt Mammút—“Komdu til mín svarta Þuríður Blær Jóhannsdóttir and Kolfinna of critics and fans alike—and all this be- great. All of the records listed rep- systir” Nikulásdóttir, the sheer breadth of new fore their first full album.” resent high points in the artists’ ca- Daníel Bjarnason—“Over Light bands on display is a testament to the rich- Samaris have all the potential to be a reers, some of the best work they’ve Earth” ness of the Icelandic scene. world-conquering act, and now they have done, and should be sought out and Ruxpin—“This Time We Go To- In talking over all these bands and art- the support to go out and do it, too. Watch contended with. gether” ists, the panel arrived at the conclusion them closely. Without further ado, here’s that a key factor in this award should be Grapevine’s HEAR THIS NOW professional as well as creative progress. (Band To Watch 2012: SHORTLIST: And for all the hard-working, talented acts that came up in the conversation, that Muck) meant there could only be one winner. The Reykjavík Grapevine IssueThe 1 — 2011 Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2014 Film 18 18 The Lovable Drunk Ólafur Darri gets his Hollywood break, but stays true to character

A Still From 'The Deep'

Jumping to the film ‘XL.’ What are You get to do a fair amount of kara- some of the challenges of starring- oke for your part in the film. Do you in and producing a no-budget film have a go-to karaoke song? in Iceland? I have to say no. Well…actually I do. Actually, I think there might be ad- The music supervisor for the film, vantages to doing a no-budget film George Drakoulias, is such a great in Iceland. You can ask a lot of people guy. He looks like me: big, lotta hair. for a lot of favours. I mean, we were And he loves to eat. So we instantly A Still From 'The Secret Life Of Walter Mitty' granted permission to shoot inside became bros. We went out to a kara- banks. Almost everywhere. The only oke bar in New York and I sang ‘Don’t place we had a tough time getting a you want me baby?’ That was a lot Words license for was shooting at Alþingi of fun, but usually I don’t do karaoke. Óskar Bragi Stefánsson [Iceland’s parliament]. I like to watch others do it. I’m just such a crap karaoke singer. But if you Although his acting in Iceland—with the Vesturport theatre group and in popular So how long into the shooting of get me really drunk, I’ll do it. ‘The Secret Life of Walter Mitty’ did films and TV series such as ‘101 Reykjavík,’ ‘Sveitabrúðkaup’ (“Country Wedding”) you ‘geek-out’? Sounds like a plan. Between ‘The and ‘Mannaveidar,’ (Man Hunter)—have made Ólafur Darri a household name here, it [Laughs] ‘Geek-out’? What do you Secret Life of Walter Mitty,’ ‘XL,’ wasn’t until 2013 that he really broke into Hollywood. mean? and some of your older roles, it seems like you pretty much have Following his role alongside Mark Well, I mean, you were acting oppo- a Master’s degree in being drunk Wahlberg in Baltasar Kormákur’s ‘Con- site Ben Stiller, and he was direct- onscreen. traband’ (a remake of the director’s ing you as well… [Laughs] I mean, I have to say ‘XL’ 2008 film ‘Reykjavík-Rotterdam,’ in Oh that was surreal. Fortunately, I’d was a master class on being drunk. which he also appeared), Ólafur Darri played a small part in a film called Because that guy is just drinking and picked up parts in ‘A Walk Among the ‘Beowulf and Grendel,’ which had doing drugs—doing anything and Tombstones’ starring Liam Neeson, Stellan Skarsgård and Gerard Butler everything. Before we started shoot- Jonathan Demme’s TV movie ‘Line of in it. That was my first role in anything ing, I was reminded of a ‘selfie’ I shot Sight,’ the HBO series ‘True Detective,’ with big-name actors. I’ve done bits when I was making ‘Beowulf and starring Matthew McConaughey and and pieces—I’ve done some theatre Grendel.’ That movie was filmed in Vík, Woody Harrelson, and, of course, ’The A Still From 'Contraband' in London and worked at the Royal which is a pretty lonely place in winter. Secret Life of Walter Mitty,’ directed by Shakespeare Company. So I’ve been There was not a lot of stuff happening, Ben Stiller. around a little. The only time I was so we would drink a lot of alcohol. And At the start of 2014, Ólafur Darri is keteers,’ I’m quite happy I wasn’t in these horrible things that your char- poised for international greatness, but it, but at the same time it was tough acter is going through. he still had time to sit down us and to get offered a part in a big film like Yeah, it did change me. It talk about working with Ben Stiller, his that—your first part in a Hollywood forced me to examine the reality of relationship with director Baltasar Ko- film—and to have to turn it down. surviving something that you’re not rmákur, acting drunk, and being a bas- It was a strange feeling, but it all supposed to survive. tard on film. worked out for the best. I ended up auditioning with the casting direc- Did you get any insight into survi- You had your first big Hollywood tor of ‘Contraband,’ Sheila Jaffe, and vor’s guilt? break with ‘Contraband’ in 2012. she liked me and I got the role. But, For me, that was maybe the most How did that come about? you know, he was the director. I can interesting part of immersing myself I had done three or four films with imagine him having at least some say, in the film, the idea of survivor’s guilt A Still From 'XL' Baltasar Kormákur [the director of so… that probably helped. and being the only one who survives ‘Contraband’] and probably three or something. Thankfully I’ve never had really starstruck was when I met I remember coming into my hotel room four plays as well. Just before shoot- Speaking of ‘The Deep,’ did shoot- to experience something like that for Jennifer Aniston. But thankfully, I and taking this picture of myself. I’ve ing ‘The Deep’ with him, I was offered ing that film change you? real. I’ve only caught a glimpse of that was wearing sunglasses, so no one never before—or since—seen that look a part in ‘The Three Musketeers’ [di- I think it did. I think everything you kind of thing by studying it from the noticed. That was really funny, you on my face. So for ‘XL,’ I just dug up that rected by Paul W.S. Anderson]. It was do changes you in some way. I love outside. It is somewhat like playing a know because I’ve met a lot of fa- photo, looked at it, and thought: “Okay, a great part, but in the end I had to having my point of view changed and character who struggles with a men- mous people. You think you’d be well, this is the place I have to go.” say no because it just didn’t fit with the great thing about being an actor tal illness. We as actors can fake a lot starstruck when you meet Nick Cave, the shooting schedule of ‘The Deep.’ is that you get a different view of so of that stuff, as we know the manner- for instance, but I wasn’t starstruck Who is your character in ‘True When we were shooting, Balti knew many things in life, and from so many isms, we know the tone of voice—and when I met Nick Cave. But then I Detective’? he was going to do ‘Contraband’ six angles. And you even get to do it in you can play with stuff like that—but met Jennifer Aniston, and I couldn’t It’s not a big character. I’m only there months later and Balti, being who he a pretty safe way. I mean ‘The Deep’ we can never truly be inside anyone breathe a word. It was really funny. for a couple of scenes. It’s a stretch is, says, “You know, yeah, it’s fine. I’ll wasn’t completely safe, but there are who deals with mental illness or any- for me. Well, I say that like I’m not a get you a part in my film.” people around taking care of you, so thing like that. So in the end, thank- big meanie. Having seen ‘The Three Mus- you don’t have to actually go through fully, we’re only guessing. Heavenly pizzas!

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Ingólfsstræti ð Amtmannsstígur ust. A lot of great albums were released this year and the best ingholtsstræti Our kitchen is open Þ one, in our humble opinion, came early in February: Sin sushisamba oTVOoUIV JOHIPMUTTUSUJt3FZLKBW³L Fang’s third album, ‘Flowers.’ With this one, Sindri Már Sig- oGSJoTBU 5FMtsushisamba.is fússon has mastered his widescreen indie pop sensibilities and Alex Somers’s colourful production pushes the material into a realm of greatness. Icelandic electropop legends One Ticket - Three Museums múm also astounded us with their set at the All Tomorrow’s Parties music festival and followed it up later in the summer Hafnarhús with one of the year’s best albums, ‘Smilewound.’ Tryggvagata 17, 101 Rvk. Open 10-17 This spring also saw the emergence of the rne and St. Vincent’s artful brass pop at Thursdays 10-20 best new band of the year, Grísalappalísa, Háskólabíó. whose energetic postpunk and Icelandic The biggest music-related news this lyrics with a raw poetic edge resulted in year was the coming of two large inter- ‘Ali,’ one of the better debut albums to national music festivals: Sónar and All come out of Iceland in quite some time. Tomorrow’s Parties. Sónar, which empha- Kjarvalsstaðir Other noteworthy albums to be re- sises contemporary electronic music and Flókagata, 105 Rvk. leased were ‘Cupid Makes a Fool of Me’ progressive visuals, was held in Harpa in Open 10-17 by the lo-fi psychedelic band Just Another February, and was a great success with Visit Iceland´s largest network of art museums in three unique buildings Snake Cult, Mammút’s long awaited third highlights being Squarepusher, James Ásmundarsafn Open Daily Sigtún, 105 Rvk. LP ‘Komdu Til Mín Svarta Systir,’ ‘Cellf' Blake and Diamond Version. In its unique May-Sept.: by hip-hop legend Cell 7, ‘This Time We setting at the former Nato Base at Ásbrú, Open 10-17 Go Together’ by Ambient maestro Ruxpin All Tomorrow’s Parties was also a very Okt.-Apr.: and the wonderful country-injected folk- rewarding experience with great perfor- Open 13-17 pop of Snorri Helgason on ‘Autumn Skies.’ mances by the likes of Nick Cave, The Oh www.artmuseum.is Guided tour in English available every Friday at One of the most catchy múm songs Sees and múm. Both of these festivals will Tel: (354) 590 1200 11am. in June, July and August at Kjarvalsstaðir to date, “Candlestick,” was our favourite be held again in 2014, with Major Lazer song of the year over. The song begins headlining Sónar and Portishead and In- with Nintendo-ish synths that set the terpol scheduled to play All Tomorrow’s tone for what follows. “What’s wrong with Parties in July. your eyes” by Sin Fang with its beautiful Speaking of festivals, we also have melody was our second favourite. And “É to mention the 15th Iceland Airwaves Bisst Afsökunnar” by Markus & The Di- festival, which was exceptionally well or- version Sessions, was our third favourite. ganised and brought a roster of fine inter- The song sounds a bit like if Icelandic leg- national and domestic acts together for a end Megas were fronting Pavement. The five day music feast at the end of October. catchy and hard rocking “Hver er ég?” August saw famed concert venue by Grísalappalísa came in fourth and the Faktorý (former Grand Rokk) close down futuristic/cartoonish “We Are Faster Than with an epic performance by Gus Gus. It You” by FM Belfast was fifth. will be sorely missed: many of Iceland’s Courtesy of the crash and currency biggest bands took their first step towards problems, Reykjavík had a shortage of the limelight in its low-ceilinged upper concerts with big international acts for floor on Smiðjustígur. Faktorý’s closing a few years, but this year quite a few was a big blow after NASA closed last big international stars headed our way. year, but new venues have opened to fill Disco-virtuoso Nile Rodgers, R&B su- the void: Harlem at the beginning of the perstar Frank Ocean, Dionne Warwick, year and Brikk and Paloma at the end of it. Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds, Kraftwerk, Also in August, our website, straum. James Blake and Squarepusher all visited is, had its first birthday and to celebrate our shores and played concerts. Our fa- we held a free concert at Harlem Bar with vourites were Daniel Johnston’s intimate Útidúr and Just Another Snake Cult per- performance at Fríkirkjan and David By- forming. Here’s to another great year! Issue 1 — 2014 MusicArt 20

Huginn Þór Arason Album Reviews

Benni Hemm Hemm Eliminate Evil, Revive Good Times 2013 As we say in the homeland, ‘Eliminate…’ is a wee stoater o’ an album!

Words Bob Cluness

Earlier in 2013, I was asked in town centres), full on stern Calvinistic occasionally venturing into the territory by a fellow Icelandic music typeface, florid hypersigils and pictures of ‘I See A Darkness’ era Will Oldham. writer to provide some insight of Benni drawing said sigils on walls, Benedikt seems much more willing to for an academic paper he was writing evoking what looks to be a form of chaos just let the black night of woe and hurt on the "Scottishness" of modern music magick. It’s as if he’s channelling Charles take him over. Songs such as “Beat Me that came from Scotland. He also asked Rennie Mackintosh and Bible John, Until You Are Tired,” are utterly deadpan whether I thought there was an inherent under instruction from Grant Morrison. and succinct in its depiction of New “Icelandicness” that characterises The music of ‘Eliminate…’ shows an Year’s violence, while “Rise, Rise, Rise” popular music that has come from increased confidence in the production and “Darkness” seem to revel in this Borgartún 1 • www.thetincanfactory.eu Iceland in recent years. and structure of Benedikt’s compositions. abyss. But it never truly succumbs to One good example of music that Many of Benedikt’s previous albums, if the nihilistic self-destruction as the final shows an inherent “Icelandicness” is we’re honest, didn’t sound that good. It track “Eliminate Evil, Revive Good Times,” the music of Benedikt H. Hermansson, felt like they were recorded in a village finally manages to come up for air to aka Benni Hemm Hemm. Over the last hall with a poorly house-trained school breath in the light. Learn Icelandic decade, his big band infused, carefree band that would completely overpower It’s this idea of national traits folk-pop has become synonymous the proceedings. There was lots of in music that has me wondering if with aspects of the nation’s “Krútt” energy, but it would fly out in every Benedikt’s Scottish travels have resulted psyche and outlook. Grapevine reviews direction, leaving an empty centre. in him making music that breaks free in the past have described his music With ‘Eliminate…’ though, the music is from the inherent “Icelandicness” as “Exuberantly perky,” “Endlessly enclosed, with everything close mic’d that was there before. Listening to Morgunnámskeið Kvöldnámskeið optimistic,” “Innocent and Sweet” while and hemmed in cheek by jowl. It seals ‘Eliminate…’ it certainly doesn’t feel Morning classes Evening classes showing “Indefatigable optimism.” I in the energy of the music, allowing the Icelandic. Of course the lyrics are all 4 vikur / 4 weeks 6 vikur / 6 weeks suppose that’s all fine and good if you’re natural acoustics of the instruments and in English, with the backing vocals mán. til fim. mán. þri. fim. into that sort of thing (not me though). vocals to provide the power. When the done in a slight Scots inflection, but he Mon. to Thu. Mon. Tue. Thu. But then something interesting percussion and brass enter the fray on seems to have also absorbed some of 9:30–12:15 17:30–19:55 happened. A few years ago, Benedikt songs such as “I Am Free,” and “Rise, the bruised romanticism and rousing moved from Iceland to Edinburgh, Rise, Rise,” there’s a definite rumbling melancholia that pervades much of 13.01.–6.02. 13.01.–20.02. Scotland, and started hanging out and undercurrent to the melody that wasn’t modern Scottish music. The romanticism 17.02.–13.03. 3.03.–10.04. collaborating with the likes of Bill Wells, there before. “Siam” has him taking his that acknowledges that there’s a dark Öll stig / All levels Öll stig / All levels Dan Willson (AKA Withered Hand), minimalistic style to a new level, chanting absurdity to society and our lives are and Alasdair Roberts. This exposure to the song’s mantric title, with his guitar essentially fucked, but we plough on different minds and attitudes resulted in giving off sitar-like harmonics. regardless, no matter what the cost. the ‘Retaliate EP’ in 2010. It passed many The production of ‘Eliminate…” When the guitar cranks in “The Mask people by, but it was a departure from allows the intimacy invoked on ‘Retaliate’ Of Anarchy,” it definitely harks to the Benedikt’s usual music. Recorded in his to be fully realised on several songs. weeping guitars of the likes of Teenage house, the quirky hi-jinks were replaced Benedikt’s voice is a soft, lilting thing, Fanclub and Arab Strap. You can Kvöldnámskeið Enska with a darker, earthier humour, and the but even he will admit that it is not the imagine some of the old boys doon the Evening classes Spænska music that possessed a raw intimacy that strongest vocal out there. But there Gallowgate when hearing this wiping 6 vikur / 6 weeks held you in reeeeeeal close. are moments on ‘Eliminate…’ where away the odd tear before it drops into mán. þri. fim. Ítalska Now with his latest release, everything is stripped back to its core their pints. Mon. Tue. Thu. fyrir börn og ‘Eliminate Evil, Revive Good Times,’ and you can hear the quivering in his Whatever the nationalist imagery 20:00–22:15 fullorðna Benedikt has made an album that melodies. A song such as “Lucano & on display, ‘Eliminate…’ manages to 13.01.–20.02. continues the progressions of ‘Retaliate,’ Ramona,” for example just ACHES in its side-step much of the boring clichéd shit 03.03.–10.04. sjá heimasíðu resulting in music that’s decidedly tenderness. Tremolo heavy guitar notes that infests most fashionable modern thetincanfactory.eu different to what he’s released before. hang thick in the air while Benedikt’s “folk” music, (Empty oompah sing-along Stig / Level 1, 2, 3 The album’s art design illustrates this fragile vocals tell a tale of love and death chants, sporting bespoke bohemian difference. Many of Benedikt’s previous on an apartment roof. fashion whilst trying to give the look albums were adorned with childlike This leads to the lyrical themes of being hard bitten tillers of the land). BOOK NOW / TEL. 551 7700 drawings of boats, mountains and ice of ‘Eliminate…’ that are different to his Instead ‘Eliminate...’ is an album that I can [email protected] cream, splashed with bright primary previous albums. Benedikt’s pervious relate to intensely, as it draws you into its colours. ‘Eliminate…’ instead comes in music would contain lyrics that could murky embrace. It’s contains music of a a clear plastic pouch containing a tiny be cynical, but ultimately they were mystical fervour of a metaphysical bent, talk • read • cook • listen booklet (the sort that would be forced silly, knockabout fluff. The themes of full of the intangibles that connects folk field-work • food & fun into your hand by evangelical Christians ‘Eliminate…’ however are much darker, music to people, places and events. 21 MusicArt

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ÍRiS Penumbra 2013 Songs for a quiet winter afternoon

Words Burke Jam

‘Penumbra,’ the debut album Morning” walks a problematic line from songwriter and vocalist between intimate vocals and the rest ÍRiS, does just what the title of the instrumentation. Truly interesting suggests. Sitting on the edge of shadow arrangements feel unfortunately flat. and light, this album seems to lose itself The main problems lie in the percussion, in this indeterminate space. Sombre and at times feeling like they are forcing the beautiful in concept, ‘Penumbra’ falls just rhythm along, and at times they simply short of really capturing the edge and just don’t sink where they should. These contrast of that dark and light space. Flat songs need more sonic depth to match grey days permeate these nine songs. ÍRiS’s voice: Let them hit. Let the blow be “It certainly was the best of the many places we dined in Reykjavik!” Unfortunately, it never really rains, nor is strong enough to sink the ship, and let FrequentFlyer513 - New York City, New York - Trip Advisor the listener afforded the possible break the vocals carry us through the depths. of sonic light after the clouds. The best moments on ‘Penumbra’ The record evokes something exist in the space between notes—where between Fiona Apple’s starker musical the songs are allowed to slowly ripple BORG RESTAURANT  PÓSHÚSSTRÆTI 911  101 REYKJAVÍK structuring and Beth Orton’s personally along, left to their own devices. Here mythological narrative. While the there is much beauty and plenty to TEL: +3545782020  INFOBORGRESTAURANT.IS  WWW.BORGRESTAURANT.IS songwriting shows much potential, listen for. Certainly a promising debut, the recording itself leaves something ‘Penumbra’ is a perfect record for quiet to be desired. The opening track “That winter days, a good book and cup of tea.

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Snorri Helgason With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker ensures that we take our waterprooﬁng rather seriously. Autumn Skies Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, 2013 inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop. High quality songwriting and production ache with loveliness THE FRESHEST FISH ....AND IDEAS! Afer years of study, Words strings of awards and Joe Shooman having led kitchens of some of Reykjavík’s most What beautiful sounds this The middle of the album contains esteemed restaurants, album delivers; it’s simply two extraordinarily high points: first, the Gústav still sees him a brilliantly-designed and aching, elegiac “Poor Mum,” featuring self as just a kid from controlled set of pastoral pop songs the pure, close-mic, throat-y and float-y up north, with a life- that delivers an intensity of loving female vocals. The only Icelandic- time passion for fish. thoughts and vignettes through a delivered track on the record is “Kveðja,” largely acoustic palette. which seems a waste of the assonant Snorri’s voice is smooth on the and rich sonic possibilities on offer. It’s a country-blues title tracks that bookend small quibble only; there are some lovely the album, first the guitar version and moments still to come, not least the later with piano in full effect. There’s 1950s fairground blues of “Big Wheels,” much late-summer wooziness on show, all arpeggios and dramatic fuzzy guitar too, such as the wistful, shimmering interventions. “There’s so much we can “Berlin” and the Eels-ish single “Summer learn from each other’s eyes,” he sings, Is Almost Gone,” which doesn’t so much voice creaking at the edges. From voices, seep from the speakers as ooze. Snorri, and ears, too, it seems. SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 14 - 101 REYKJAVÍK - 571 1100 meanwhile, ruminates on the dying embers of a relationship. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2014 Culture 22 Meet Iceland’s Pinball Wizard One man’s hobbyist crusade to keep pinball alive in Iceland

these games just vanished.” is shaped like a gun and the other, He hit the mother lode about three a rose. But when he bought it, the years ago when he found someone rose was missing. After a month-long selling a container of 20 old arcade Internet search, he found a replace- games in Akureyri. Most were pin- ment rose piece in Australia. ball machines, the oldest of which “Some of these machines are get- was from 1977, but there were a few ting more and more valuable, which other games like Pac Man and Mortal is great. Hopefully, it will keep people Combat in the lot. All of them were from throwing them and the parts deemed broken relics of the past that away,” he says. were pushed out by the advent of Þröstur doesn’t spend a ton of time digital video games. playing the games and more often “There were three pinball ma- than not, the ones in his house aren’t chines in there that I really wanted: turned on. His kids are still too little Indiana Jones, Adams Family and to reach the handles let alone see Star Wars. I pretty much bought the the screen without a boost, though whole thing because I wanted those he says the machines are always three machines,” he says. being played on the kids’ birthdays. He became as hooked on the “They’re a cool thing to have around,” challenge of refurbishing the arcade he says. games as he had been with the pin- He also rents them out occasion- ball machines and luckily, by this ally and recently had one pinball ma- point, Þröstur was working as a com- chine stationed at the CCP headquar- puter programmer. ters (the game company that makes “When I see these games like the EVE online games) in Reykjavík. Mortal Combat and NBA Jam, I sort “The only problem is, they’re huge,” of want to give them a second life too. he says. Thus most of them stay at Maybe it runs in my family, my mother his home. He doesn’t get visitors to is sort of like this, she never wants to his house wanting to play, but he gets throw things away.” people interested in buying them for their own homes. The Second Coming Of “I think now, most of these ma- Pinball chines are in homes,” he says. “They’re not in much commercial use He keeps four of his favourite pinball these days.” machines in a special room in his house and the Pac Man game and The Pinball Renaissance the Adams Family Pinball machine Nanna Dís are camped in a second living room. “My dream for the future would be to His wife is cool with him keeping one make a mini-arcade. To open it up ev- work-in-progress in their house at a ery now and then and let people play time and he’ll work on that one ma- for free. It would be the perfect venue Words for Menningarnótt [Culture Night],” Alex Baumhardt “I have to admit, I really Þröstur says. He’s been living in 101 for years didn’t play these pinball As it is for many hobbyists and collectors, it was inevitably a love of Star Wars that and sees it as the part of town that could host a renaissance of pinball spurred Þröstur Höskuldsson to act on an ad in a local newspaper for a broken pinball machines when I was younger. It was not until playing. If the one pinball machine machine. He bought it about six years ago while he was studying electrical engineering at the bar Paloma is a sign, perhaps at Reykjavík University and thought it would make a nice home decoration. I saw this advertisement more will crop up at bars and cafes in for a broken, Star Wars Reykjavík. He hasn’t sold any of his machines pinball machine that I—as yet, but he’s reaching capacity on his “I have to admit,” he says, “I really of the working pinball machines in The Death Of Pinball a big Star Wars nerd— collection and he knows he’ll have to didn’t play these pinball machines Iceland and he keeps them in one of begin selling some soon. “I actually when I was younger. It was not until his three garages—two rented and Pinball was at its height in the mid wanted to have it in my tried to get permission to enlarge my I saw this advertisement for a broken, one next to his house. 20th century and between 1955 and living room.” garage, but I wasn’t successful,” he Star Wars pinball machine that I—as a Since buying that first machine, he 1970 the pinball gaming industry says. big Star Wars nerd—wanted to have it says he’s put a lot of ads in the papers made more money than the entire Þröstur has yet to pass on any op- in my living room.” and has asked around about ma- American movie industry according chine every other day, typically for portunity to buy a pinball machine, He paid 100,000 ISK for it and chines. “I’ve actually called random to an NPR report. about a month. but he says he’s reaching that point. spent a month refurbishing it and people working in a bowling facility In his search for machines, Þrös- He buys many of the parts on eBay “I’m getting fat on them. I’ve realised making it run. Then he started look- in Akranes to ask if they have any old tur checked out the newspaper ar- that come from old arcades or col- that I have more than I need to keep ing for more. Today, Þröstur owns 16 machines or know about any, and I’ve chives on tímarit.is and discovered lectors in the US, Australia and the up this hobby.” pinball machines, 13 of which he’s had quite a bit of success with that,” Iceland’s rich pinball past. “I couldn’t UK. One of his favourite pinball ma- refurbished and brought back to life. he says. believe how many machines used to chines is a Guns N’ Roses game with Those 13 machines are just about all be here—hundreds—and then most of two trigger pullies on each side: one

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2.25% LÉTTBJÓRALC. VOL. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 15 — 2013 Issue 1— 2014 Art 24

Art | Inspired by a glacier There Are Stars... Exploding The Visitors by Ragnar Kjartansson

Still from 'The Visitors' By Ragnar Kjartansson

The Visitors

FREE ADMISSION Until Febuary 9 Kling & Bang Gallery Nanna Dís Hverfisgata 42

Words Burke Jam Ragnar Kjartansson’s 'The Visitors' is perfect. This is art today and it feels amazing. The show, up at Kling and Bang Gallery until February 9th, is a must-see.

A world of stunning joy of sound emanating from the performer work within its own respective media. By and beauty, glowing in in frame. All of them sonically coalesce not simply utilising but rather incorpo- to create the space of the work. Moving rating, with pristine result, photography, every minute detail. through the space, the audience is afford- film, sound, installation, sculpture, and Walking into 'The Visitors' feels like walked a pristine mix of each performer, and it performance art, 'The Visitors' grabs you ing into a house of your closest friends. is this relationship between the individual by the heart and welcomes you along for The experience of this work is distinctly screens and the installation as a whole the ride. inclusive rather than voyeuristic, despite that guides us throughout the entirety of Perhaps, however, the most affect- the intimate nature of each shot. This in- the work. It functions as if we were there ing attribute of this work is that it is fun, stallation is made up of nine larger than wandering from room to room to witness and Ragnar knows it. This work feels like life tableaux projections of different spac- this shared harmonious vision amongst an idea that had to be executed to cele- es at the Rockeby mansion, in Upstate Ragnar and friends. brate the pure joy of the cacophonic mess New York. Each space, with its respec- The power of this work lies in its of human experience. While that mess SPUNTINI tive cast members and instrumentation, mastery. To pull off a work like this with is shown here through Ragnar’s distinct comes to heartbreakingly beautiful life as such resounding clarity is a true testa- artistic voice, he manages to transcend one immersive musical opus. The cast is ment to 21st century interdisciplinary into a more universal and shared experi- made up of Ragnar’s close friends, Icelan- practice. While it exhibits as a video instal- ence. It becomes our mess, deep, moving, dic music notables including members of lation, Ragnar is moving with grace be- poignant and shared. Go experience this múm and Sigur Rós, as well as the family tween and within vast realms of art mak- piece, and then go see it again. You will RISOTTO of Rokeby. Each screen in the darkened ing and art history. Any single element of be glad that you did. The kitchen is open until gallery is supplied with its own channel this work would function as a stand-alone midnight on weekends 17:00 – 23:00 sun. – thu. PASTA 2013: A Good Year For Ragnar Kjartansson Ragnar Kjartansson is quickly becoming Trained in painting at the Iceland Acad- and one of the largest recognitions in the a global name in contemporary art. Born emy of Art, Ragnar’s practice and career world for contemporary art. Ragnar was in Reykjavík in 1976, this artist has been have moved into an ever-expanding field chosen from a pool of 800 nominations picking up steam for the last several years of performance, film, music, and installa- spanning 70 countries. The finalists this CLASSICS and shows no signs of slowing down in tion with great result. His works have been year are from the Netherlands, Brazil, 2014. The opening of his work The Visitors received around the world to consistent Croatia, Israel, Portugal, the US, and the at Kling and Bang Gallery on November acclaim. At 33 he became the youngest UK. This shortlist is made up of some of 30, brought a huge turnout and welcome artist to represent Iceland at the 2009 the leading figures in contemporary art homecoming for this master of play and Venice Biennale. He was invited again to practice. Ragnar will be part of an exhibi- human condition and rapidly ascending the Venice Biennale in 2013 showcasing tion with the other finalists at the Wales DESSERTS Icelandic artist. continuous musical performance for the National Museum of Art, from October While Iceland has seen a consis- duration of the show. 25, 2014 to February 2015. The winner of UNO at Ingólfstorg | Tel. 561 1313 | www.uno.is tent and vibrant presence on the global In December, Ragnar was short- the Artes Mundi will be announced Janu- art stage for the last 30 years, Ragnar is listed for the Artes Mundi award. At ary 22, 2015. one of its most accomplished for his age. £40,000, it is the largest award in the UK 25 Literature Issue 1 — 2014 The Reykjavík Grapevine

BOOK REVIEW Monster or Martyr? Burial Rites by Hannah Kent

Historically Speaking: The Illugastaðir Murders

Although capital punishment wasn’t abol- her over for the younger Sigríður, who—just ished in Iceland until 1928, the last people to complicate matters further—Friðrik may to be executed for their crimes in the coun- have been in love with as well. try were an eighteen-year-old farmhand Agnes and Friðrik were publicly be- named Friðrik Sigurðsson and a thirty- headed by none other than Natan’s brother three-year-old workmaid named Agnes and their heads were displayed on pikes. Magnúsdóttir, in 1830. The heads were then secretly removed that Along with another, younger maid very night and buried. In 1934, their bod- named Sigríður Guðmundsdóttir (whose ies were transferred to a shared grave in a sentence was commuted to life in a Danish nearby churchyard. The grave can still be textile prison), the pair were found guilty of visited today. murdering Agnes’s employer, a medicine While this lovers-spurned scenario man by the name of Natan Ketilsson, and makes the story of the Illugstaðir murders his guest Pétur Jónsson, at Natan’s farm compelling as it is, the story’s endurance Illugastaðir, on the Vatnsnes Peninsula in over the years can also be attributed to its Northern Iceland. The men were asleep resurrection over 100 years in the future. when they were stabbed to death, after In 1932, a Reykjavík woman named Ses- Words which the house was set on fire to destroy selja claimed to have received messages Larissa Kyzer any evidence. It is commonly presumed that from Agnes, asking that she and Friðrik’s Friðrik killed Natan in order to rob him, but bodies and heads be found and reburied Based on the real story of Agnes Magnúsdóttir, who in 1830 became that Agnes, once Natan’s lover, gave Friðrik in consecrated ground. After several years the last person to be executed for a crime in Iceland, ‘Burial Rites,’ the the idea in the first place. She is believed to of periodic possession by Agnes, Sesselja have been jealous that Natan had thrown shared her story. Church authorities helped debut novel by Australian author Hannah Kent, is the culmination of ten years’ of writing, research, and obsession—what the 26-year-old winner of the Writing Australia Unpublished Manuscript Award describes as her “dark love letter to Iceland.”

Lyrically written, meticulously researched and mostly, they are discreetly interwoven in the nar- swiftly plotted, ‘Burial Rites’ takes an infamous rative, adding an extra degree of reality to the figure in Icelandic history and transforms her story. from “the spider, the witch caught in the web- Agnes comes to be known to her host fam- bing of her own fateful weaving,” into a believably ily as a hard worker, a woman with considerable Hallgrímskirkja’s Friends of the Arts Society 32nd season complex character with motivations more pure domestic wisdom (she deftly delivers a breeched than evil. Indeed, Kent writes that her book was baby) and literary knowledge (she knows many intended to “supply a more ambiguous portrayal” sagas by heart), and of a principled, if proud, Sunday February 2nd 2014 at 3 pm of a woman who many sources credit with being character. She’s written as something of a poet, manipulative and conniving, the brains behind a infusing her speech and memories with melodic vicious double murder staged while the victims descriptions of the countryside, the weather, and Þorkell Sigurbjörnsson were asleep. daily tasks: “I sway back and forth and let grav- When the novel opens, Agnes’s fate is al- ity bring the scythe down and through the grass, 1938-2013 ready sealed: she has been found guilty of mur- until I rock steadily. Until I feel that I am not mov- der and arson and sentenced to death. Although ing myself, and that the sun is driving me. Until I in memoriam convicts at the time were generally sent to Den- am a puppet of the wind, and of the scythe, and mark for execution, it was, in the case of Agnes of the long slow strokes that propel my body for- Works by one of Iceland’s most proliﬁc and and her co-conspirator, determined to be more ward. Until I couldn’t stop if I wanted to.” beloved composers for choir and organ. “economical,” to behead them both locally (the In one of her interviews, Ms. Kent stated Premiere of a new work by public execution may have also been intended to that part of her fascination with Agnes’s story lay Hreiðar Ingi Þorsteinsson, Nunc dimittis make an example of the harsh penalty for mur- in the fact that accounts of the woman lacked nu- der). While awaiting her execution, however, Ag- ance. “When I heard people use the word 'mon- nes is sent to live and work with the family of a strous' in connection to Agnes and her actions,” Schola cantorum chamber choir of Hallgrímskirkja district officer, and to be advised by a young and she stated in an interview with Australia’s ABC Conductor and organist: Hörður Áskelsson, Music Director of Hallgrímskirkja inexperienced reverend so that she might repent News, “there was part of me that thought, ‘but of her crime before her death. no one’s really a monster.’” Such compassion is Kent crafts the narrative, and our picture clearly what allowed Kent to fully embody this of Agnes, through her protagonist’s own voice story, and yet it is also the novel’s main weak- as she relates her life story to Reverend Tóti, ness. For it is not, ultimately, that difficult to through letters (based largely on original docu- compel a reader to empathise with a downtrod- ments), and through the eyes of several second- den, misunderstood, educated, but uncared-for ary characters. The story is peppered with myriad woman—especially when that woman’s crime is small details which manifest the often grim daily revealed to have sprung from mercy and love, lives of Icelandic peasants in the 19th century. rather than hate or vengefulness. We glance through a croft’s window, fitted with How much more might an author of Kent’s “dried sheep’s bladder that had been pulled obvious talent have accomplished if only she had across to serve as a pane.” We join Agnes in helped us empathise with a woman who was just the painstaking process of hand-making blood a bit of a villain—a little selfish, a little less self- sausage, “up to my elbows in the guts of things, assured and less poised? When correcting or re- working towards a kind of survival.” Occasionally, casting history—when creating a lasting portrait these quotidian details feel a bit forced, as when of a real human being—it is not, perhaps, any less the narrator points out “a young woman wear- questionable to create a martyr than a monster. Admission: 3.000 ISK ing the national headdress of cap and tassel,” or Ticket sale at Hallgrímskirkja box ofﬁce when Agnes describes a sound which “lingered Open daily 9 am - 5 pm and at www.midi.is in the air like a cloud of ash over a volcano.” But The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2014 History 26

Make sure it’s Elding! Greater Beings In The Stars Will Be Frequent Guests

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HOW DO YOU SAY Words Helgi Hrafn Guðmundsson, Vera Illugadóttir & Dr. Helgi Pjéturss

DELICIOUS At the start of each New Year we are ticing the quest for physical and spiritual saying that wheat and rye will be history, tempted to make predictions. Lemúrinn perfection. but then we will use those fine fruits to will make no such forecast for 2014 as we their fullest potential, taste- and health- IN ICELANDIC? think it is generally a bad idea to predict There will be no wars, wise. We still have ways to go before much about the future. no one will want to take reaching that goal. There will absolutely be Instead we will look at an old maga- no raising of livestock only to slaughter. zine article by the Icelandic scientist and on the inevitable conse- And there will be much travelling. Ev- astrobiologist Dr. Helgi Pjeturss (1872– quences of maiming and eryone will have a chance to see much of 1949). He studied natural science at the the world. There will be no wars, no one will University of Copenhagen and became killing. And all kinds of want to take on the inevitable consequenc- the first Icelander to graduate with a PhD strife between parties and es of maiming and killing. And all kinds of in geology in 1905. individuals will be much strife between parties and individuals will Dr. Pjeturss become a leading sci- be much less frequent than now, as it will entist in the complex and intriguing field less frequent than now, be easier to avoid contentious issues and of the secrets behind the fierce volcanism as it will be easier to avoid come together. Disagreement on religion and geological history of Iceland. Around will be history, mostly. 1920, however, he became a somewhat contentious issues and Mankind will, through scientific curious figure when he began preaching come together. Disagree- means, seek contact with greater beings his theories on psychic phenomena. He ment on religion will be in the stars, and such beings will even be did not agree with the spiritualist move- frequent guests here on earth. Open- ment that ghosts and spirits visited peo- history, mostly. mindedness and prescience will shine ple in dreams. Instead he put forward a as a kind of higher sunshine over all life. complex “astrobiological” theory positing There will be a great change in in- More and more, men will know what to that the universe was full of life and man dustry. No man will then have to spend his expect from the future, and more and was interconnected with beings on other days breaking rocks in narrow mine tun- more, that which then comes as a sur- planets, which we could visit in dreams. nels and risking, as has been the case so prise will be even better than expected. COME FIND OUT The Afterlife, he believed, would be spent frequently, being buried alive and suffering So that the old saying from Hávamál, on different planets. He was also interest- the most horrible of deaths. There will be many a thing goes worse than is looked ed in futurology and, in 1933, he made the no need to seek the sunshine underground for, will no longer hold true. And as I have following predictions about life in Iceland — because we can say that coal is but an- written about earlier, there will be a great WE OFFER ICELANDIC DELICACIES PREPARED and the universe for the year 2000 and the cient sunshine under a kind of spell, from emphasis on dream-life, and sleep used IN SOUTH AMERICAN 21st Century. which it is released when the coals burn. to get to know life on other stars. AND SOUTHERN EURO- PEAN STYLE. In the year 2000, mankind’s circum- Men will by then know how to harness In the year 2000, Iceland will be one stances will be completely different from contemporary sunshine. Agriculture will of the most fun countries on earth, and the the way they are now. First and foremost, be widely practiced, but with radically dif- weather will no longer be a hindrance to health and well-being will be greater than ferent and modern techniques. We might enjoying the beauty of its landscape to the it is now, as people will be much better call it ‘speed-agriculture’, and it will make fullest. equipped to take advantage of that which use of rays we still know little about. improves life, be it love, light, or the fire and New types of fruits will be manu- scent of the air (ozon). Each man will by factured, much healthier and tastier than marrestaurant.is 00354 519 5050 #marrestaurant then have a much greater chance of prac- those, which we now know. But I am not 27 Opinion

Welcome To 2004 (no, that’s not a typo....)

Eiríkur Smith and James Rice work at the Centre for Disability Studies, University of Iceland.

Of course it should read ‘welcome to 2014’ and a very happy New Year to all. And what better way is there to ring in the New Year than with some political commentary. In certain ways, 2014 in Iceland is starting to feel much like 2004. The crisis of 2008 and the lessons learned (or not learned) seem to be fading into the past. We were hopeful that some long-term changes in the area of social justice would ma- terialise as the result of the crisis. What we got some five years later was the return to the same old and tired rhetoric that heaps scorn and derision upon the most marginalised sectors of society.

In 2004 in Iceland it was not unusual to versial. There are entire branches of psy- encounter discourses that were critical chology, linguistics and philosophy dedi- of disability pensioners (öryrkjar). Quite cated to investigating words, discourse similar to what occurs in the UK, these and their effects. This is Solla Eiriksdottir, the winner discourses aren’t all that concerned with Freyja’s Facebook post in reaction to such trivial things as facts or evidence, Vigdís’s words was then somehow turned of Best Gourmet Raw Chef and Best and only seem to exist to stir public senti- into a ‘news story’ by Visír and later DV, Simple Raw Chef in the 2011 and ment against people whose only ‘crime’ is which spawned a multitude of comments having been medically diagnosed with a and reactions on other blogs. What was 2012 “Best of Raw” Awards. Come and try out one physical, intellectual or psychological im- surprising was the level of outrage and of her great dishes at her restaurant Gló. pairment that impinges upon their work anger about Freyja’s criticisms, as she was capacities. This doesn't seem to matter repeatedly told to ‘shut up’ and ‘stop whin- to those who argue that pensions need ing.’ This reaction is perhaps partly due to to be cut because somehow people will Vigdís being a revered figure in Icelandic ‘choose’ a pension over waged labour. society. Merely articulating one’s opinion Reykjavík · Engjateigur 19 and Laugavegur 20b · Hafnarfjörður · Strandgata 34 · www.glo.is There is little room for ‘choice’ here and in the current political climate also seems pensions are awarded depending on to be tantamount to being a ‘frekja,’ or a the outcome of a medicalised evaluation “whiny brat.” However, the comments on system carried about by insurance physi- this story indicated a rejection of the no- cians who by nature seem to be a rather tion that people find certain terms offen- suspicious lot. Over the past few years, sive and hurtful. these kinds of discourses seemed to have Internet trolls will of course abound quieted somewhat, but in recent months in these cases, as those who seem to rel- they have become noticeable again. ish in trying to outdo one another in being The favourite target in Iceland of ‘un-PC,’ but it was particularly disturbing these kinds of discourses is the ‘disabled to see comments by educated and gen- mother with three children.’ In a recent erally progressive people who could not interview in the journal Kjarninn, a mem- seem to grasp the basic concept that lan- ber of parliament called upon this trope to guage matters. Perhaps the most absurd outrage readers by arguing that in some reaction to this was a blog article that was cases such pensioners could earn more carried by a number of sites, such as Ey- than an MP. This is absurd given that the jan, entitled ‘Words are innocent’ (Orð eru pension levels are all available on the web saklaus). Of course words are not inno- via the Icelandic Social Insurance Admin- cent. Words—in isolation and arranged in istration (www.tr.is) for anyone who cares the form of discourse—are one of the key to look. Of course one could also ask why methods through which humans com- adequate pension levels are a problem in municate and create meaning. The author the first place and why these comparisons of this article insisted that terms such as need to be made. It is ludicrous to believe ‘fáviti’ (imbecile, retard), because they that an intelligent, educated man like are old words that can be found within this MP, who is a trained lawyer to boot, the dictionary, are ‘beautiful’ words that is unable to read a website and do basic the Icelandic language simply cannot do calculations. The only conclusion one can without. Perhaps the best judge of wheth- draw from this ‘disabled mother of three er or not these words are offensive would can make more than MPs’ discourse is be the actual people to whom these labels that it is part of a wilful attempt to enrage are applied. the public by using misinformation to ac- In many ways, words and discourse complish political goals. certainly matter. The discursive tactics Such views are not only put forth by involved in trying to build public outrage Funky, fresh and full of ﬂavor! the political right in Iceland. All too often to justify cuts to low-income pension the respective right and centre-right In- earners are easily understandable and You must try it! dependence Party and Progressive Party somewhat transparent for their political receive an unfair level of criticism—as if implications. The anger and vehemence they were solely responsible for the preju- provoked by Freyja Haraldsdóttir’s point dice and bigotry heaped upon disabled that language matters is of another order people in Iceland. This runs at a much altogether and has nothing to do with deeper societal level. Recently, Freyja party politics. It recalls another argument Haraldsdóttir, a prominent disability ac- from about a decade ago surrounding tivist, criticised former president Vigdís language and terms denoting gay people, Finnbogadóttir for using an Icelandic with those who insist on clinging to words term for disability (fötlun) as a negative that some find offensive simply because adjective. Vigdís was talking about how they exist in the dictionary. This requires RÚV, the national broadcasting service, another kind of analysis, among other RUB23 Aðalstræti 2 101 Reykjavík had become ‘impaired’ or ‘broken.’ Freyja things asking why people feel so strongly Phone +354 553 5323 [email protected] pointed out in a Facebook post that do- about words that are not applied to them RUB23 Kaupvangsstræti 6 600 Akureyri 132723

ing this has implications for how disabled in the first place, or why we cannot at least A Í Phone +354 462 2223 [email protected] S

people are in turn viewed as ‘broken,’ have a civilised discussion about it. A W B T

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‘helpless’ or ‘useless.’ Here’s to a better 2014, as 2013 A P I To argue for a link between language was certainly a disappointing one from P and perception is not particularly contro- this perspective. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2014 Travel 28

Don’t Forget to Breathe A wintertime dip with the Sea Swimming and Sea Bathing Association of Reykjavík

Nanna Dís

EXPLORING ICELAND, THE FAROE ISLANDS OR GREENLAND

IT´S EASY WITH AIR ICELAND GRÍMSEY ÞÓRSHÖFN ÍSAFJÖRÐUR VOPNAFJÖRÐUR AKUREYRI GREENLAND

ITTOQQORTOORMIIT EGILSSTAÐIR ILULISSAT ICELAND

NUUK

KULUSUK REYKJAVÍK

NARSARSUAQ

FAROE ISLANDS TÓRSHAVN 29 Travel Issue 1 — 2014 The Reykjavík Grapevine

mind you—vibrating. find places on the east end where, unof- This is adrenaline, Þóra tells me, ficially, all the regular sea swimmers sit— and it’s a good thing. The shock your the other side is mostly the province of body goes through when it is submerged foreign exchange students cupping hot in water so cold is actually what makes mugs delivered from the snack bar. It’s a the experience a healthy one. Your im- surprisingly mixed group of people: seri- mune system goes into hyper-drive, ous athletic-types with neoprene swim- thinking, basically, that your system is ming hoods, couples, children, groups under attack. Your blood rushes to your of women, teens, and even an elderly organs to keep them warm, aiding in im- man who is being helped out of the tub proved, if temporarily slower, circulation. and down to the shoreline when we first As your blood circulation slows, tissue sit down. More than half of the people swelling decreases, making cold water soaking are wearing thick woollen caps. dips particularly good for anyone who As I start to defrost, my compan- experiences joint pain. And your body ions regale me with stories about the expends a huge amount of energy trying Sækýrnar, or Manatees, the channel- to keep warm, burning a lot of calories swimming team that Raggý, Kristbjörg, in the process. and Kristín belong to, and which be- Having bobbed in the shallows came the first all-women Icelandic relay for a minute or so, we dog paddle a bit team to swim from Dover, England to further out, and I notice that my arms Sangatte, France in June 2013. They also and legs aren’t moving quite as well as tell me more about the yearly events put Nanna Dís I might expect them to, driving home on by the Association, which has around the warnings I’ve gotten about not sea 200 members. There are regular long “You don’t have to be crazy to go swimming in the sea, but it helps.” So says the man sitting swimming alone. The ladies told me that distance swims: the shorter relays being they sometimes stay in the water for as the 600 metre swim around the Foss- next to me in the hot tub at Nauthólsvík, Reykjavík’s Geothermal beach. We’re facing out long as twenty minutes, although we vogur bay, and the summer swim to the toward the Fossvogur bay, and if you listen carefully, you can hear the sound of the waves wouldn’t be doing that today. (I assume island of Viðey (900 meters one way). lapping at the shoreline. It’s six in the evening and pitch dark. But for the time being, at at the time that this is because of me, There are also a wide range of social which is likely true, but later research events—hot tub screenings of “Jaws” and least, the perpetual drizzle and fog, which have hung over Reykjavík all week, has lifted, so also indicated that 15 minutes would “The Creature from the Black Lagoon,” the twinkling lights of Kópavogur are visible across the water. The man next to me is still be at the very outside of how long you tub-side literary readings, fashion shows could safely stay in water of this tem- of hand-knitted swimwear, and New laughing to himself, but I don’t need any convincing on the crazy count. Because I’ve just perature.) Year’s Day dips which find many rushing been sea swimming in the North Atlantic, and I think I want to go back. My mind starts to wander a bit— into the ocean wearing their holiday fin- I find myself thinking about how more est. Watching everyone joke and laugh Words victims aboard the Titanic supposedly around me, it’s easy to see that this is an Larissa Kyzer died due to hypothermia than drowning. incredibly jovial group of people who ob- But then, for seemingly no reason at all, viously enjoy each other’s company—all It’s worth admitting from the get-go Helgadóttir Komplett, wearing a hand- “You have to tell yourself to breathe: you everything goes from being incredibly the more so, I’m sure, because of their un- that when I proposed the idea of writing knitted maroon wool bathing suit over might forget to breathe.” uncomfortable to incredibly awesome. usual shared hobby. This is not, after all, about Reykjavík’s Sea Swimming and Sea her regular one, and Þóra Kristín Ás- “It’s important to keep talking, so I’m elated, thrilled by the amazing absur- everyone’s idea of fun. Bathing Association, I didn’t think that I geirsdóttir, the Association’s secretary that we know where everyone is.” dity of wading into Icelandic waters in Just before closing time, as the would be actually getting into the water and “Master of Disaster,” so-called be- “Think of it like a kind of meditation.” late November, thrilled by loveliness of “Baywatch” theme song is piped over myself. I grew up in the landlocked, So- cause she has a master’s degree in di- “Don’t worry: we know CPR.” the surroundings, by the good-natured the speakers, someone asks if I’ll be noran desert of Arizona, and have nursed saster planning. company. I feel energised and capable back for another dip next week. Yes, I a lifelong suspicion of large bodies of The ladies lend me a pair of neo- A healthy sort of shock and just really damn cheerful. say, without thinking twice. Absolutely. water. I’m also petrified of being cold, prene boots and gloves—particularly and am a strictly two-scarf sort of lady. important on colder days, they tell me, Somewhere behind me, I hear several The melting pot The Sea Swimming and Sea Bathing But when I found myself invited to join noting that the sea is currently 1.6C students running into the water, splash- Association of Reykjavík is open to new a few members on their weekly swim, it (35F)—and then whisk me out past the ing and screaming. “It’s good to scream After about five minutes, we start head- members. The annual fee, which grants you seemed churlish to decline. And anyway, long hot tub and down a ramp to a small sometimes,” Raggý says. “You can ing back to the shallows. Raggý tells me free entrance to yearly events, such as movie I figured, this would be a great thing to cove. Cleverly, my handlers don’t give scream if you want.” to get out of the water slowly, to take my screenings at Nauthólsvík, and helps to pay Have Done: Arizona Girl Bathes in North me any time to rethink what I’m about I don’t want to scream, though, time readjusting to the air temperature for open swimming events throughout the Atlantic and Lives to Tell the Tale. to do, but simply tell me to walk in at a I want to focus. I need to focus. I’m and walking back to the hot tub. It’s a year, is 3,500 ISK. If you’d like to give sea I was met by Ragnheiður Valgar- normal pace without stopping. I’m given submerged to my shoulders now, but pretty cold day—I arrived in a calf-length bathing a try, you can borrow neoprene ðsdóttir, or Raggý, the head of the as- a steady stream of encouragements, I haven't gone numb like I expected. thermal coat—but now the air feels like a boots and gloves at the desk and ask to be sociation, and three other members: reminders, and advice, which I try to Rather, I have a seriously intense case thick, heavy blanket. It’s like being en- introduced to members who can accompany Kristbjörg Rán Valgarðsdóttir, sporting absorb as I hit the blindingly cold water of pins and needles, and my whole body cased in a marshmallow. you on your first dip. Learn more about the a whimsical flowered swim cap, Kristín and walk in up to my waist: feels like it’s vibrating. Not chattering, We walk back to the hot tub and sea-bathing association at http://sjosund.is/.

Check it out!

FOR THE BEST PRICE BOOK ONLINE AT: AIRICELAND.IS The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2014 30 They Said What? 2013: Year In Quotes

Words Paul Fontaine The great thing about being important enough that the media hangs on every word you say and write is that your words become public record forever. And by that I mean great for the public. Let’s take a look at this weird and unpredictable year, one quote at a time.

which impugned his character while

the media was investigating his case.

The source of the memo, which evi- “ “ “ “ “ “ ““ dence strongly suggests came from the ministry, is still unknown.

“It can be a bit appealing for people “Apparently incest is a big problem “ who are not exactly asylum seekers, “In light of the developments that “ in Iceland because there are only “I can attest that if I had to be admit- who intend to work illegally or come have taken place in recent years in 300,000 people in the country. If you ted to the hospital, just speaking for here for other reasons, to come to matters of gay, bisexual, and trans- need an app to avoid incest, it's time myself, I wouldn't consider it a lot of Iceland. It could be a very attractive gender people in Russia, the Human to move, right?” money to pay 1,200 for each night.” bonus to get free food and shelter Rights Office and the Mayor’s Office - Jimmy Kimmel, repeating an oft-heard - Chairperson of the Budget Commit- when the application process is so have entrusted the deputy mayor to refrain about an app that premiered in tee Vigdís Hauksdóttir, just puttin’ the long.” propose amendments to the existing 2013 which can trace genealogy and idea out there to start charging people - Directorate of Immigration Direc- agreement between the two cities cross-reference mutual relatives with money to stay in the hospital as a reve- “I made the mistake of believing tor Kristín Völundardóttir claiming that or terminate it all together follow- surprising accuracy. Or as it came to be nue-generator. Fortunately, this budget what [foreign credit agencies] were some asylum seekers to Iceland are, ing consultation with the Foreign known, “the anti-incest app,” an angle clause was DOA. saying about the Icelandic banks, in fact, merely tourists. Likely those Ministry.” the international media found hilarious. because they were giving all of them who also enjoy being arrested and de- - Minutes from a Reykjavík city council

Stay classy, guys. an extraordinarily clean bill of health tained upon entry, and then confined to meeting. And a real long time coming.

-- Moody’s, Standard & Poor’s, Fitch,

Njarðvík without the right to work for

all of them.”

months at a time. Let the good times

“ “ - Icelandic President Ólafur Ragnar roll! Grímsson, on why he believed Iceland’s “ banks were as sound as he purported ““

“ they were to captive audiences across Europe. Of all the things different folks

said this year, this bon mot outshines them all for its bald-faced falseness and “ “ “Can a country of 320,000 people blame-shifting, and for encapsulating have a National Theatre which uses the running mantra amongst former 900 million ISK [per annum]? Can it “The result from Iceland[‘s parlia- “We could save 200-300 mil- “Outvasion Vikings” and the politicians have a symphony orchestra which mentary elections] should prompt lion ISK each year by expelling who cheered for them. Yes, including costs 700 million ISK? … We are introspection not just from politi- all foreign prisoners, hand them the guys running the ruling coalition. cians, but from voters as well. Are 320,000 people. Should we not take a Three more years! “But surely if we can send a man to over to authorities in their home our expectations realistic? Is the only better look at the expenditures before the moon, we must be able to tackle countries and prohibit them from way to meet the insatiable demand we approve them?” porn on the internet.” returning to Iceland. That way, we for growth to build economies based - Vestmannaeyjabær mayor Elliði Vig- - Halla Gunnarsdóttir, political advisor would also make space for 20-30 on quicksand?” nisson on government spending priori- to the then Minister of the Interior Ög- Icelandic prisoners.” - Former Left-Green Chairman Stein- ties. Maybe he’s right. While we’re at it, mundur Jónasson, on tentative plans at - Progressive MP Frosti Sigurjóns- grímur J. Sigfússon, on how the leftist does a country of 320,000 really need the ministry to research setting up an son, doing a little cost-benefit anal-

government lost the election, i.e., peo- people to live in different homes? One internet porn filter around the entire ysis on the treatment of prisoners, ple wanted the bubble back within the giant underground fortress should do

country. These plans have not yet come according to nationality. span of four years. just fine. to fruition.

“ “ “ “ “ “ “ “

“I’m not proud of what I did. I just “Iceland could be pushed harder, “It rewrites all that we know. The don’t care at all what other people quicker, before the public could average European might not notice, think.” have a chance to make their feelings “My reputation is ruined. I don't but for a sea enthusiast, like myself, -The owner of an infamous Range Rov- known, and I would not put that past understand how the ministry could this video was just terrible.” er often photographed parking illegally, the current US administration.” do this to me, I don't understand - Fisherman Aríel Pétursson, lament- blocking walkways and accessible - Whistleblower Edward Snowden, on Iceland.” ing the inaccurate depiction of sea- parking spaces. why he ultimately did not come to Ice- - Nigerian asylum seeker Tony Omos, faring in the music video for Iceland’s land to seek asylum. Likely not one of shortly before his deportation from Ice- 2013 Eurovision entry, Eyþór Ingi those asylum tourists that we heard land (and separation from his girlfriend Gunnlaugsson’s “Ég á líf”. about. and child-to-be), on a leaked memo

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P.8 Go Home with a story “Then, he suddenly sprang forth and worth telling! made a big racket. He started by turn- ing lots of water into a most decent wine. Nobody knows for sure why he did that.”

Reykjavík Mayor Jón Gnarr delivers the uplifting story of how Jesus destroyed the Death Star, rescued Morpheus, and saved Middle Earth in order to inspire us all for the New Year.

P.10

“It is something you learn about in school, but Icelanders more often encounter elves of the Tolkien-kind than the well-dressed, rock-dwelling, baby-snatching Icelandic type.” Kári Tulinius debunks the myth that Iceland- ers are a bunch of elf-believers.

P.38

“When I see these games like Mortal Combat and NBA Jam, I sort of want to give them a second life too. Maybe it runs in my family, my mother is sort of like this, she never wants to throw things away.”

If you want to play pinball in Reykjavík, make friends with Þröstur Höskuldsson. He has 16 machines…

P.41

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Issue 1 - 2014 www.grapevine.is Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland

A Festival To Feast Your Ears And Eyes On Reykavík Visual Music – Punto y Raya Festival

Harpa | January 30 to February 02 | 5,500 ISK

This is the festival love-child of the Reykjavík Center for Visual Music and the Punto Y Raya (Dot & Line Festival) in Spain that combines "visual music" concerts, short films and interactive workshops. Artists from 46 countries will be represented and performances by Japanese sound artist Ryoji Ikeda and specially commissioned collaborative work by composer Anna Þorvaldsdóttir and Sigurður Guðjónsson are amongst the highlights. Visitors are encouraged to break though their preconceived notions about music and visual arts like a wrecking ball. And to stop listening to “Wrecking Ball.” AB MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE Jan. 10 - Feb. 6

How to use the listings: Venues are listed alphabetically by day. 16 For complete listings and detailed Jaunuary information on venues visit www.grapevine.is Send us your listings: [email protected] Friday January 10 Café Rosenberg 22:00 Ljótu hálfvitarnir Den Danske Kro 21:00 Troubadours Tryggvi / Biggi Dillon 22:00 Darknote / Jötunmóð English Pub 21:00 Troubadours Ingi Valur / Hjálmar & Dagur Brikk 21:00 DJ Pabbi Gamli Gaukurinn 21:00 Ojba Rasta / Hide Your Kids Harlem 22:00 Danni Deluxe / Terrordisco Harpa 19:30 Viennese favourites – The Iceland Symphony Orchestra First Birthday With Bands And Booze Paloma 22:00 Habbi Neró (DJ Dauði) Stúdentakjallarinn’s First Birthday Festival Saturday January 11 Stúdentakjallarinn | Jan. 16, 21:00 | Free! B5 22:00 DJ Jónas Óli If you’re a student who spends more time at Stúdentakjallarinn Brikk 21:00 KGB (“The Student Bar”) than actually in class, it’s time to honour this Den Danske Kro sacred temple of the University of Iceland. Stúdentakjallarinn will 21:00 Troubadours Tryggvi / Biggi English Pub celebrate having survived their first year of life with a two-day bash 20:00 Troubadours Dani & Jon / featuring Ojba Rasta, Agent Fresco, Tilbury and Retro Stefson. Biggi Gamli Gaukurinn Stúdentakjallarinn as we know it today opened in December of 2012 22:00 Illgresi Bluegrass Night and has since helped students enjoy and self-medicate their way Harlem 22:00 Pedro Pilatus / Bitte Schön through higher education. If we’ve learned anything from Stúden- Harpa takjallarinn, it’s that knowledge is good, and so is beer. AB 16:00 Viennese favourites – The Iceland Symphony Orchestra Mengi 21:00 Hilmar Jensson Paloma 22:00 Good Moon Deer (DJ Set) Sunday January 12 Brikk 21:00 Jazz night Den Danske Kro 21:00 Troubadour Tryggvi English Pub 20:00 Troubadour Dani Monday January 13 Den Danske Kro 22:00 Troubadour Ingi Valur English Pub 10 20:00 Troubadour Tryggvi Jaunuary Tuesday January 14 Den Danske Kro 22:00 Troubadour Gunni Spreading Some Island Sun English Pub Ojba Rasta and Hide Your Kids 20:00 Troubadour Ingi Valur Wednesday January 15 Gamli Gaukurinn | Jan. 10, 22:00 | Free! Den Danske Kro Hit reggae band Ojba Rasta will be bringing the groove at Gamli 22:00 Troubadour Hreimur Gaukurinn along with Hide Your Kids. Ojba Rasta’s second English Pub 20:00 Troubadour Hjálmar & Dagur album, which was released in October 2013 titled ‘Friður,’ has Gamli Gaukurinn brought them to the forefront of the Icelandic reggae scene 22:00 Urban Lumber / Blær with their smooth rhythms and classy brass. Guitars will tune, Thursday January 16 trumpets will ring, saxophones will sing, and organs will… well, Brikk you get the idea. But in all seriousness, whatever happens, it’s 21:00 DJ Arnar “beib” sure to be an absolutely amazing night that you certainly don’t Gamli Gaukurinn 22:00 Narthraal / Aeterna / Wistaria want to miss. BS Den Danske Kro Photo by Alda Villiljós from Ravenlight Photography 22:00 Troubadour Pétur English Pub 20:00 Troubadours Svalur and Valur Harlem 21:00 Good Moon Deer / DJ Flugvél og Geimskip / Just Another Snake Cult / DJ Silla Harpa 19:30 Young Soloists – The Iceland Symphony Orchestra Mengi 21:00 Snorri Helgason Paloma Reykjavik Museum 22:00 DJ Rafla of Photography Stúdentakjallarinn 21:00 Stúdentakjallarin’s First Birthday Festival Friday January 17 Exhibitions all year round B5 ADMISSION FREE 22:00 DJ Jónas Óli Brikk 21:00 KGB Den Danske Kro 22:00 Troubadours Roland / Hjálmar & Dagur English Pub 21:00 Troubadours Hjálmar & Dagur / Troubador Erikur GRÓFARHÚS 6th Floor Gamli Gaukurinn Tryggvagata 15, 101 Reykjavik 22:00 Amaba Dama / RVK Sound- Opening Hours: Mon–Thu 12–19 system / Cell7 Fridays 12–18, Weekends 13–17 Harlem www.photomuseum.is 22:00 DJ Óli Dóri / DJ Housekell Harpa 20:30 A musical outburst in Harpa with Vocal Project Mengi 21:00 Arnljótur Sigurðsson 30 Paloma Jaunuary 22:00 Dj Kári Saturday January 18 B5 22:00 DJ Árni Brikk 21:00 Housekell Den Danske Kro 22:00 Troubadours Ingi Valur / Biggi Dolly 23:00 RVK Soundsystem Reggae Night 21:00 DJ Flugvél og Geimskip English Pub 21:00 Troubadour Ingi Valur Harlem 22:00 Ojba Rasta (DJ Set) / Good Hear The Mammoth’s Roar Moon Deer (DJ Set) Mammút Album Release Concert Sunday January 19 Gamla Bíó | Jan. 30, 21:00 | 2,900 ISK Brikk 21:00 Jazz night Den Danske Kro Mammút’s third album ‘Komdu til mín svarta systir’ (“Come To Me 22:00 Troubadour Tryggvi Black Sister”) has been a long time in the making, and has received English Pub 21:00 Troubadour Dani critical praise topping charts and winning several awards. The al- Harpa bum is melancholic and grim, addressing the darkness that resides 19:30 Bach’s Cello Suites at the Chamber Music Society in each person, so expect to come away from the concert emotion- Monday January 20 ally moved. But don’t worry, it’s the good kind of emotionally moved, and Mammút have a super energetic stage presence. TGB Den Danske Kro Photo by Alda Villiljós from Ravenlight Photography 22:00 Troubadour Fannar English Pub 21:00 Troubadour Ingi Valur Tuesday January 21 Den Danske Kro 22:00 Troubadour Roland English Pub 21:00 Troubadour Tryggvi Wednesday January 22 Den Danske Kro 22:00 Troubadour Hreimur English Pub 21:00 Troubadours Biggi and Maggi Thursday January 23 Den Danske Kro 22:00 Troubadour Pétur English Pub 22:00 Troubadour Erikur Gamli Gaukurinn 22:00 Páll Ívan / DJ Flugvél og Geimskip Harlem Dark Music For Dark Days 22:00 Hits & Tits Karaoke Night Dark Music Days 2014 ,AUGAVEGIA 26+ LEBOWSKIBARIS Harpa 19:30 Víkingur plays Brahms - The Iceland Symphony Orchestra Harpa | Jan. 30 to Feb. 02 | 9,900 ISK KEX Hostel 19:00 Burns Night Festival Paloma Dark Music Days was established in 1980 by the Society of 22:00 Harry Knuckles Icelandic Composers to celebrate new and experimental music. Friday January 24 The festival opens with a performance by the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra and showcases performances by saxophone concerto Bar 11 22:00 Morgan Kane & Saktmóðigur composer Áskell Másson as well as a programme dedicated Brikk to the works of Páll Ragnar Pálsson, a contemporary composer 21:00 Plan B Den Danske Kro and former guitarist of rock band Maus. Dark Days will be col- 21:00 Troubadour Gunni / Ingi and laborating with the Punto Y Raya festival to combine contempo- Tryggvi English Pub rary orchestral music with the visual arts of Punto. The New York 21:00 Troubadours Ingi Valur / Svalur Times describes it as, “ever-diversifying... a hot ticket in a and Valur Harlem cultural hotspot.” We describe it as, “Ten-times more hot than a 22:00 DJ Kári / DJ Yamaho new ticket to a culturally diverse spot in New York.” AB Harpa 19:30 Víkingur plays Brahms - The Iceland Symphony Orchestra Paloma 22:00 DJ Árni Sveins Den Danske Kro Den Danske Kro Saturday January 25 22:00 Troubadour Gunni 21:00 Troubadour Tryggvi / Hjálmar English Pub & Dagur Brikk 21:00 Troubadour Ingi Valur English Pub 21:00 DJ Óli Dóri Harpa 21:00 Troubadours Ingi Valur / Biggi Gamli Gaukurinn 20:00 The Sound of Brass Through & Maggi 22:00 Frost Harpa #3: Rekjavík City Band Harlem Den Danske Kro 20:00 The Etudes by Philip Glass 22:00 DJ KGB / Steindor Jonsson 21:00 Troubadour Fannar / Biggi Harpa English Pub Wednesday January 29 19:30 Dark Music Days 21:00 Troubadours Hjalmar & Dagur / 22:30 Reykavík Visual Music – Punto Gunni & Steinir Den Danske Kro y Raya Festival Harlem 22:00 Troubadour Hreimer Mengi 22:00 Emmsjé Gauti & Sura DJ Set / English Pub 21:00 VJ Ásdis Sif Gunnarsdóttir Benni B-Ruff & Pedro Pilatus 21:00 Troubadour Erikur Paloma Mengi 22:00 Magnús Dýri (DJ Maggi Lego) 21:00 Tinna Þorsteinsdottir Thursday January 30 Paloma 22:00 DJ KGB Paloma Saturday February 01 22:00 Nolo (DJ Set) Sunday January 26 Brikk Den Danske Kro 21:00 DJ Arnar “beib” 21:00 Troubadour Tryggvi / Hjálmar Brikk Den Danske Kro & Dagur 21:00 Jazz night 22:00 Troubadour Pétur English Pub Den Danske Kro English Pub 21:00 Troubadours Biggi & Maggi / 22:00 Troubadour Tryggvi 21:00 Troubadours Svalur and Valur Svalur & Valur English Pub Gamla Bío Harpa 21:00 Troubadour Dani 21:00 Mammút Album Release 11:00 Dark Music Days Harpa Concert 22:30 Reykjavik Visual Music – 16:00 Young Voices – Aðalsteinn Már Harlem Punto y Raya Festival 2014 : Ryoji Ólafsson 22:00 Lady Boy Records DJs Ikeda – datamatics [ver.2.0] Harpa Tjarnarbíó Monday January 27 19:30 Dark Music Days 21:00 Dusty Miller Record Release 22:00 Reykavík Visual Music – Concert Den Danske Kro Punto y Raya Festival 22:00 Troubadour Fannar Mengi Sunday February 02 English Pub 21:00 Hugleikur Dagsson Stand Up 21:00 Troubadour Tryggvi English Pub Friday January 31 21:00 Troubadour Dani Tuesday January 28 Harpa Brikk 11:00 Dark Music Days 21:00 Plan B 19:00 Reykavík Visual Music – Punto y Raya Festival ART OPENINGS AND ONGOING Jan. 10 - Feb. 6

How to use the listings: Venues are listed alphabetically by day. For complete listings and detailed information on venues visit www. grapevine.is Send us your listings: [email protected] Opening

Anarkía January 11 Kristbergur Ó. Pétursson’s new painting exhibit is inspired by, and makes several references to, the Hafnarfjörður lava fields, directly and indirectly. Runs until February 2 ASÍ Art Museum Ingileif Thorlacius - Retrospect January 11 Ingileif Thorlacius (1961-2010) studied at The Icelandic School of Arts and Crafts and Jan van Eyck Academy in Maastricht, Netherland. Her works cover a range of different mediums; oil paintings, watercolors, Dance, Dance, Baby drawings and sculptures. Iceland Dance Company: Trilogy Runs Until February 9 Borgarleikhúsið Trilogy Dance Performance Borgarleikhúsið | Feb. 1, 8, 16, 23 & Mar. 3, 19| 4,500 ISK The Iceland Dance Company’s new The Iceland Dance Company is premiering a performance involv- show, Trilogy, showcases three short ing three short plays named ‘Trilogy.’ The show includes ‘Luggage,’ performances influenced by classical ballet, contemporary dance and a play seeking inspiration from memory and its constant develop- breakdance. Admission: 4,500 ISK. ment, ‘Berserks: Mad as Wolves, Soft as Lambs,’ which is spiced Shown on February 1, 8, 16, 23, March with Nordic mythology and athletic displays and ‘Variations,’ which 3 and 9 features Jean Sibelius’s “Themes and Variations for Solo Cello” Katrín Sigurðardóttir: Foundation January 25 played to a solo dance with Ellen Margrét Bæhrenz (pictured). If Katrín Sigurðardóttir’s installation you're into ballet, break dance or contemporary dance, the Iceland consists of a raised floor which Dance Company’s ‘Trilogy’ show will definitely be for you. TGB extends beyond the walls of the exhibition space and handmade tiles with intricate patterns in the Baroque style. Katrín’s installation was Reykjavík Art Museum - Iceland’s contribution to the Venice Hafnarhús Ongoing Biennale in 2013. Cadences of Line and Color Runs Until April 13 February 1 Árbær Museum Kunstschlager This exhibition showcases works of A guided tour in English through this January 18 art in the spirit of “visual music.” It is open air museum, which consists of Artists Ragnhildur Jóhanns and made up of three parts, the historical twenty buildings happens daily at Jóhann Ludwig Torfason open an background of the art form, a new 13:00. Admission 1,100 ISK. exhibition of language and images, installation that combines video work On permanent view using (or misusing) language from with an electronic/piano composition, Artótek various fractions of text, poems and and forty smaller works that illustrate Inga Elín Kristinsdóttir’s new exhibit phrases, that become works on the the relationship between music and is a multi-medium one featuring oil border of text and image. They define abstract art in Iceland. paintings, light sculptures and lamps the exhibition as "visual poetry,” Runs Until April 13 and chandeliers of different kinds. where the representation of text is Reykjavík Art Museum - Runs Until January 31 graphical or picturesque. Kjarvalsstadir The Culture House Runs until February 1 The Seasons in Kjarval’s Art An exhibit showcasing principal Mokka Kaffi February 1 medieval manuscripts, such as Gálgahraun Every season imbues the land with Codices Regii of the Poetic Edda, January 10 new life, and every cloud sheds new Prose Edda, law codices and Christian Artist Kristján Jón will exhibit a series colour upon the mountains. This works, and the Icelandic Sagas. of red and black chalk drawings from exhibit focuses on how land and saga On permanent view the protected Gálgahrun lava fields. merge to become one in the works of Child of Hope - Youth and Jón Runs Until February 13 Jóhannes Kjarval. Sigurðsson The National Museum of Iceland Runs until October 12 Exploring the life of Icelandic national and The Reykjavík Museum of SÍM (CIA) hero Jón Sigurðsson, made especially Photography Anna María Lind Geirsdóttir - accessible to children, families and From a Different Angle: Jeans and Shirts school groups. Photography by Icelandic Women January 7 On permanent view 1872-2013 Anna María Lind Geirsdóttir will open Millennium - Phase One January 25 an exhibit of woven textiles made A selection of pieces from the The exhibition features a hundred from jeans and shirts in an attempt collection of the National Gallery, pictures taken by Icelandic women to take a jab at the “society of plenty” including a variety of works by in the past 125 years, and showcases that discards these items. It’s also Icelandic artists in the last two what women have been doing in that a nod to the clothing of rebellious centuries. period. The pictures are sourced youths like James Dean and Marlon On permanent view both from amateur and professional Brando. The Library Room photographers, and shown in the two Runs until January 24 The old reading room of the National museums simultaneously. Þjóðleikhúsið Library displays books of Icelandic Runs until May 11 Óraunveruleikar cultural history dating from the 16th Nordic House The dance performance century to the present day. Nordic bookwork/art books All you need Óraunveruleikar ("Unrealities") On permanent view January 25 in one place will be performed by writers Urður The Einar Jónsson Museum A group of artists from Denmark, Hákonardóttir, Valgerður Rúnarsdóttir The museum contains close to 300 Finnland, The Faroe Islands, and Þyri Huld. It's built from artworks including a beautiful garden Greenland, Iceland, Norway and research on reality and the limits of with 26 bronze casts of the artist's Sweden exhibit Art books in The imagination. Admission 2,500 ISK. sculptures. Nordic House exhibition halls. Shown on January 16, 17, 25 and 26. On permanent view Runs until February 23 Þoka Hverfisgallerí Reykjavík Art Museum - The Days Of The Child Prodigy Exhibition by Tumi Magnússon Ásmundarsafn Are Over Mixed media artist Tumi Magnússon “I’ve never seen figurative January 11 will display paintings and video that electricity” Rakel Mcmahon and Bergþóra have to do with phones and phone January 18 H`aVkgjhi\jg&. Snæbjörnsdóttir present a new calls. The exhibition displays works iZa#/ (*)**'&-.% exhibit focusing on the existence Runs until February 22 by Icelandic sculptor Ásmundur and consequences of being a Sveinsson (1893-1982) along ONLY GVY^hhdc7aj!=iZaH6<6 child prodigy. It consists of a with new works by nine Icelandic SWEATER iZa#/ (*)*+'),-- drawings, poems and text, and is the contemporary artists. By highlighting SELECTION, culmination of a project started in abstract works from the later period NO KNITING AVj\VkZ\jg*(W 2011. of his career, the exhibition seeks MATERIAL iZa#/ (*)*+'&-.% Runs Until February 16 to shed light on similarities found in www.handknit.is works of contemporary art today. Runs until April 27 IN YOUR POCKET WHAT'S INSIDE Reykjavík Map Happy Hour Guide Places We Like Best Of Reykjavík Practical Info

Reykjavík January 10 - February 6 Keep it in your pocket Four Weeks The Grapevine picks the events, places and what to experience in the next four weeks SOUVENIR SHOP Denim Dream One Hundred And Twenty Five 25 - 11 7 - 24 Jeans Like James SHOP OF THE YEAR 2012 Jan May Years Of Femininity January Dean

Anna María Lind Geirsdóttir – Jeans and Shirts SÍM (Icelandic Association of Visual Artists)

Anna María Lind Geirsdóttir will open an exhibit of woven textiles made from jeans and shirts. The exhibit is an extension of From a Different Angle: “Cotton Rags,” another textile installation Photography by Icelandic Women 1872-2013 she did at Grafíkfélagið in 2012. She works National Museum of Iceland and the Reykjavík Museum of Photography with jeans and shirts in an attempt to take a jab at the “society of plenty” that discards The exhibition features a collection of 100 these items. It’s also a jarty celebration of pictures taken by Icelandic women in the the clothing of rebellious youth like James past 125 years and gives a real peek at how Dean and Marlon Brando. AB women have lived, what they’ve done and their roles in society during that time. If you are curious to see the progression of women's Forest Friends place in society through the years from 19 - 19 Don’t Knock The massive archives of amateur and professional Dec. Jan. Conifer photographers, then you’ll want to check out both museums as they show separate pieces of the collection at the same time. TGB

January 18, 19, 25 & 26 COME OUT TO THE GARDEN If you fancy a trip out of the city, consider going to Garðurinn by Keflavík airport where the international art festival Fresh Winds in Garður takes place. A total of 50 artists from 19 countries travelled there and have spent five weeks in residence, preparing art exhibits, performances, live music and other fun activities. It's not too far away, so go on, have a cultural weekend.

January 16, 17, 25 & 26 ENTER THE UNREALITIES A Sara Riel – Barabarrtré dance troupe has put together a new play Týs Gallerí based on the intersection on reality and the limitations of imagination, where the senses Sara Riel has a new exhibition called are offered a trip into the impossibly real. Barabarrtré (“Only-Conifer”) that challenges The troupe consists of Urður Hákonadóttir Icelanders’ habit of shunning conifer trees of Gusgus, Valgerður Rúnarsdóttir of the eleven months of the year, but then turn- Reykjavík Dance Festival and Þyri Hult of ing them into altars for presents over the The viking:info Ísafjördur the Iceland Dance Company. It is shown at holidays. The exhibit includes a painting of a Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík Akureyri Þjóðleikhúsið. tree with features of several different kinds Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík of conifer, and shotgun shells filled with Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri Adalstræti 27 · Ísafjördur January 16 NIGHT OF GROOVE Good Moon conifer seeds for aspiring foresting activists. Reykjavík Deer are heading out to explore the world Sara’s exhibit promises to leave you ponder- e:info@the viking and have totally rad adventures, so they ing what sort of balance there is to strike www.theviking.is TAX FREE have a goodbye gig with DJ Flugvél og between Iceland’s wide horizon and further Geimskip and Just Another Snake Cult foresting efforts. TGB at Harlem at 21:00. H

1 2 3 10 4 5 Te bes selecion of Icelandic design in the Viðey oldes house in Reykjavík, ferry

Aðalsræti 10. Ð MAP SLÓ KLETTAGARÐAR MAP KI FIS Places We Like A Cruise ÐUR harbour GAR DA Food AN GR 1 1 The Coocoo's Nest K Maritime LE Grandagarður 23 Sigurjón TTA Museum GA Nestled in an old fishing hut in the flourish- Art RÐ AR ing area of Grandi is a new Californian deli The Museum with an Italian twist. What is a Californian Old We are open every day. V Harbou EST B T U deli? You’ll have to pay them a visit to find US r RG AR www.kraum.is ÐA out. The owners, Íris and Lucas, have put ÁNANA R much thought and work into every square M Old ÝR A R inch of the place, creating a cosy and warm G A Harbour atmosphere. If you are in that part of town, TA NÝ Area LE ND SÆB head over to get your brunch or lunch fill of UG RAU ATA T the day. KLE HO R PP SVE I SVEGU GU D L R AN 2 T MNE R Icelandic Fish & Chips S FRA SG G R Ð A Á 2 EI T NARG VE A STURG SUN Tryggvagata 8 ÍGUR AT G C T A AT EIRS Harpa DA GR S A GA B BÁ T ORG Not your averageA fish’n’chips joint, this AR RU A Concert N GA D RG TA A O Hall healthy restaurantVE uses only organic vegeta- B A Reykjavík KI G AT HRIN RA ÖL RK KLEP bles and quality fishU products to serve their Ð D G Art R UG JU Æ AT S PS I A Museum AN V fancy take on a fast-food classic.G The spiced BR TI E ND DU GU A BR ÆGIS TR R R GR Main YG RÆ Down ‘Skyronnaise’LA sauce is a special treat, and A Á AU Tourist GV ST A Central T G their clean, casual location by the harbour is A Info AT Ð S HÁ A Bank T ÓL H Town S U Ö full of charm. VA AR L VA VH A LL G ÓLS LA R L A HA B ÁS L GA I FN G GA L A T AR S S UG 3 STR TA K Æ A VA G T TÚNGATA ÆTI ÚL V A A B B A D A T RÆ AG RA L Lebowski Bar LL A Culture ÆK TN D A AT U IR A ST US T AG L GA A L E 8 TU A U EL RSTR House R A AV T A R LaugavegurAR 20a A Ð Austur- ÆT Ð T A I A EIS D R M völlur . KI H National R RK ST VE A classic American style diner lies at the back JU BAN R R LIND U S FISG U G TR Theatre AR E ÚS K R Æ AS G BRÚNAVEGU of the pin-up clad bar on Laugavegur, boast- TI T AT GA V GAVEGUR RÆ A TÍ TA S SUNDLAU Icelandic TH TI E S TA N RS SÆ ing a short menuUR of quick and tasty bowling SÓL Parliament Ó R EG VA P A V MT 6 PA B LS LLA VO MA 11 N GA R alley JburgersÓ named for The Dude (or His GA N ARGA N TÚ U AU K ARST N AP GUR AS TA KJ SST Í SÆ LA PL . 7 T T ADudeness or El Duderino if you’re not into the RÆ KL N K T LÆ Taxi TI I I Æ R NTEIGUR Laugardals TA HRAU whole brevity thing). It’s a great place to chow B R ÆT TNSS U A A ÓK BRÚ H T IG AT HR L S TR VA RE A .S 3 ÚN E T Swimming UR down with a beer, but that could just be, like, RG T. S AR AG I BORG T YN N U TS S AT AT HTI LL G L LA S E Ð City U Uptown ÍS

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ME T L Lauguvegur 55. This fine new establishment ÓN EI S F U of Iceland TA U GUR VE SK R U GU R UR OTHÚ R NJ AB R SV A Laugardalur NE EG Á features classic MexicanSHAG dishes, domestic FU EL UR LS A GA BA RR H I M AT TA O ÁTÚ beers, and a colourful candy skull mural. Viva KI B N N SG ER S R GÞ ARBR SIG Hallgríms R T BI LDUR ÓR ÚN comida! Viva Islandia! Viva México!! National U ÚN Ý BA kirkja GAT A ÁT M H library C L U D Church AU L YN KV SÓLE G G A A BRAUTARHOLT A G JU 5 West T AT UR VE V Yummi Yummi A N EGU I G G I ST AG RG UR R

A R YJ AG Ð FR R K H BR A A AG NJ EY The Einar RSTÍ RG Hlemmur, HverfisgataSide 123 J I National UG Jónsson RÁ A A TA AT museum Museum Ð After long years of lamenting the lack of A Sundhöllin U F SK ENGJAVEGUR JÖLNIS RA R Swimming I S quick, greasy and satisfying AsianGI fast-food U PHOL U HA G TÍG ENGJATEIGUR NNU B Pool VE in town, the owners of ThaiFORN super-restaurant ER VEGU ÓNSS T GU G R E N R S EI BA GI Ban Thai have graced us with this pan-fried T R Ú ÆGISÍ H A A R LS JA ÍK H Hljómskáli Ð AT S Zoo and AT G K I R AR S Ó IP saviour! The dishes areR super cheap at 1000 I GA A HO G N N HA Ð University RG Park S TA LT Ð A G T family park HA B T T A 9 RÆ L ISK each, the service isR super fast but totally DA A N RA LA LA B H of Iceland N AU A U U T T DU U Laugardalshöll SK fresh and what seems likeGI a small dish will FÁ I R T BR M AU M S I PA Æ VE RA Ú Sports hall stuff you full. They now do home delivery as S BR L G GUR SUND S H I E U OR ÁTEI V well! Oh, happy day. R GS I LTA SN V L EG HO EFST UR Ú M G GUNNAR L A Á A TÓ S H R L Drinking S NGHO U TU Nordic House U ÁRMÚLI N MA R G F L LÓK D UA AG SARHAG GA VA AT T Culture Center TN A LT A SM RSTÍ E Ý N S RAR Á 6 Prikið FÁ GJ V L VE R EGUR K GU AV AGA R GA A 7 ML Ð I TA Den Danske Kro 8 Micro Bar 9 Stúdentakjallarinn A HR EG Bankastræti 12 A IN Kjarvalsstaðir UR TA AU T GB Taxi RA R IngólfsstrætiA 3 A UT National Prikið is one of those places that AT AusturstrætiARGA 6 Háskólatorg,BSÍ Sæmundargata 4 AG Ð G Ð Í A R Museum AR A Coach SU shape-shifts. It’s a warm café lined with HL T This Danish-themedDD bar is located on In- Micro Bar sitsNJ snuggled up behind the lobby The University of Iceland’s newly built Ð O Terminal ÚT AU U H KA R photographs of its senior frequenters on LÍ R gólfsstræti, just off Laugavegur. They serve Ð K L of City Center Hotel and offers Reykjavík’s student lounge has quickly become the B A A Ð T N weekdays, a hung-over hangout on week- LÍ S upEGGE Danish favourites such as Tuborg beer best selection of microbrew beers, served by place to be on campus. They boast a solid AR D RT H R SB Klambratún A Ý end afternoons, and duringL nights it’s filled SG Á RA YN and AkvavitAT schnapps and proudly promote knowledgeable and polite staff. This is one menu of tasty and inexpensive pub-grub, RMÚL G A NG H Park UM UT AG B L to the brim with what remains of Iceland’s the Danish tradition of daytime drinking. ÓL AR I of the few bars in Reykjavík where you can a nice selection of drinks and beers on tap LA ST G A SÍ I M Ð N A I H hip hop scene. Go there in the daytime for M RHL Ð R Their ‘Happy Hour,’ every day between I Í R Á have a conversation with your mates without to help unwind after classes, and regularlyHRINGB RAUT KL Ð RI U A AB K A MÚ FHEI R Ý LE the cheap burgers; enter atS night for some AU IM T 16–19, is a great source of fun. How to ask T ÁL AR having to shout over live bands or loud music. host concerts to help you rock out with your I L H AM T AG I I HE OTT hip-hop debauchery, old skool and the SK S Ð I FT for a large beer in Danish: “Hej, jeg vil gerne AF BR R meal. TAH L A L Á GO latest bangers alike. ha’ en stor." ÍÐ AU N IM T E AU H SA L TH Ð Ó Useful numbers Hafnarstræti 20, tel: 540 1313 16:00, Sun. closed. The shopping centres F S Public transport E ÓL A SKIH HLÍ M SK A BARMAH Kringlan and Smáralind as Swell as most The Icelandic Travel Market, Bankastræti 2, B Ý J Emergency number: 112 V Ú Ó R L K The only public transport available in Reykjavík EG ST G Í LÍÐ I tel: 522 4979 supermarkets and tourist shops have longer Ð A EY A Medical help: 1770 U R R is the bus. Most buses run every 20–30 minutes Ð opening hours. R H MI Trip, Laugavegur 54, tel: 433 8747 A L KL VEGU Í AB Dental emergency: 575 0505 Ð MÁ R (the wait may be longer on weekends) and the VAH AUT Swimming pools: Weekdays 06:30–22:00 and LÍÐ Pharmacies L Information: 118 price per fare is 350 ISK for adults and children. R ST J Þ weekends 09:00–17:00, although each pool IGAHLÍ ÓSHEIM OR RLyfA og heilsa, Egilsgata 3, tel: 563 1020 Multiple day passes are available for purchase at Ð Taxi: Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir: 588 5522 GA Ð varies plus or minus a few hours. DR Í TA ÁP select locations. Complete route map available GN A U HL Lyfja, Laugavegur 16, tel: 552 4045 and Lág- HLÍ R BSR: 561 0000 Reykjavík Banks in the centre are open Mon.-Fri. 09:00- Ð O at: www.bus.is. Tel: 540 2700. Buses run from KA Ð múla 5, tel: 533-2300 K A 16:00. RV Tax Free Refund Domestic A SK 07:00–24:00 on weekdays and 10:00–24:00 on T O B GR UR Coach terminal LÖ S ÆN E G Post Offices NDU IF UR Iceland Refund, Aðalstræti 2, tel: 564 6400 Airport Taxi H AH AN weekends. Main terminals are: Hlemmur and LÍÐ LÍÐ BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, SVEG Tourist information Lækjartorg Post offices are located around the city. The Á GUR MI tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is RVE KLA downtown post office is at Pósthússtræti 3–5, LLA BRAU Opening Hours VA FELL RENS Arctic Adventures, Laugavegur 11, UG T SMÚL Domestic airlines open Mon.–Fri. 09:00–18:00. Stamps are also FL G tel: 562 7000 I Bars and clubs: According to regulations, bars sold at bookstores, gas stations, tourist shops Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, can stay open until 01:00 on weekdays and City Centre, Aðalstræti 2, tel: 590 1550 and some grocery stores. HAMR Kringlan AH Iceland Excursions – Grayline Iceland, tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is 04:30 on weekends. LÍÐ Shopping Eagle Air, Hótel Loftleiðir, tel: 562-4200 C Shops: Mon.–Fri. 10:00–18:00, Sat. 10:00– Ð Mall HÖRGSHLÍÐ LÍ

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Nauthólsvík 6 7 8 9 Venue Finder New In Town Music & Entertainment Amsterdam Glaumbar Hafnarstræti 5 | D3 Tryggvagata 20 | D3 Austur Harlem Austurstræti 7 | E3 Tryggvagata 22 | D3 B5 Hressó Bankastræti 5 | E4 Austurstræti 20 | E4 Bar 11 Kaffibarinn Hverfisgötu 18 | E5 Bergstraðastræti 1 | E5 Bjarni Fel Kaldi Bar / Café Austurstræti 20 | E4 Laugavegur 20b | E5 Brikk Kofinn Hafnarstræti 18 | D4 Laugavegur 2 | E5 Bíó Paradís Loft Hostel Hverfisgata 54 | F6 Bankastræti 7 | E5 13 Mengi Boston Mánabar Óðinsgata 2 Laugavegur 28b | F6 Hverfisgata 20 | E5 Bunk Ölsmiðjan Reykjavík is a city filled with art, both visual Laugavegur 28 | E5 Lækjargata 10 | E4 and aural, and requires a wide range of Celtic Cross Ölstofan different venues. Born out of this creative Hverfisgata 26 | E5 Vegamótastígur | E5 need, Mengi (“Set”) was born as a place to Den Danske Kro Prikið host intimate shows where the artist gets Ingólfsstræti 3 | E4 Bankastræti | E4 to perform in front of small crowds. Hosting Dillon Reykjavík Beats anything from art performances, lectures Laugavegur 30 | F6 Hverfisgata 46 | E5 and workshops to music gigs, Mengi can HAFNARSTRÆTI 5 & Dolly Rósenberg SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 10 snugly seat fifty people at most. Admission Hafnarstræti 4 | D3 Klapparstígur 25 | E5 is generally 2,000 ISK, but guests are free to Dubliner Stofan Café bring their own drinks until Mengi gets its Hafnarstræti 1-3 | D3 Aðalstræti 7 | D3 H alcohol license. English Pub Thorvaldsen Austurstræti 12 | E3 Austurstræti 8 | D3

S Gamli Gaukurinn Vegamót K SÆ ÚL B AG RA Tryggvagata 22 | D3 Vegamótastígur 4 | E6 AT U A T Museums & Galleries LIND AR ART67 The Nordic House G ATA Laugavegur 67 | F7 Sturlugata 5 Mon - Fri 12 - 18 / Sat Tue–Sun 12–17 N 12 - 16 www.nordice.is TÚ GUR Í SÆ T Ásgrimur Jónsson Reykjavík Art Gallery

TNSS Museum Skúlagata 30 | E7 VA TÚN Bergstaðastræti 74 Tuesday through Sunday BORGAR Uptown Mon-Fri through Sept. 1 14–18 AV E GUR The Culture House www.artmuseum.is Hverfisgata 15 | E5 Reykjavík Art 4 The www.thjodmenning.is Museum - Hafnarhús UR Tower The Einar Jónsson G N Tryggvagata 17 | D3 TÍ Ú Museum S GR S N A E KÚL Open 10-17 TT AT Ú K I AGA Eiriksgata | G6 S Ð K GA TA AT TA R F Thursday 10 - 20 A Ó Hlemmur Ö Tue–Sun 14–17 R GU N F Í UR 12 H Kjarvalsstaðir T G www.skulptur.is S Bus Terminal TÍ A T Flókagata 24 S M T IÐ S AU Taxi T Gallerí Ófeigur VI 5 ÚN Open 10 - 17 R ÓN Skólavörðustígur 5 | E5 NJ R AB Ásmundarsafn ÁLS GA BA RR ofeigur.notando.is Sigtún O H TA ÁTÚ BER N F N G S Hafnarborg Open 10 - 17 Hallgríms ÞÓR U www.listasafnreykja- kirkja GAT Strandgata 34, Haf- A vikur.is Church LAU narfjörður BRAUTARHOLT GA UR VE www.hafnarborg.is G Reykjavík City Library G UR Hannesarholt Tryggvagata 15 | D3 Einar RSTÍ Grundarstígur 10 | E5 www.borgarbokasafn.is son RÁ A www.hannesarholt.is Museum Ð Reykjavík City Sundhöllin U SK Hitt Húsið Museum - RA UR Swimming I ÍG PHOL Árbæjarsafn T Pool Gallery Tukt ÓNSS T Pósthússtræti 3-5 | E4 Kistuhylur 4 R E N EI BA GI R Ú Open daily 10-17 ÍK LS www.hitthusid.is AT S S G K Ó IP Settlement Exhibition GA A G TA N Hverfisgallerí T T Reykjavík 871+/-2 A AU Hverfisgata 4 | E4 T Aðalstræti 17 | E3 BR www.hverfisgalleri.is AU Open daily 10–17 G RA BR S H i8 Gallery OR ÁTEI Reykjavík Maritime GS SN V Tryggvagata 16 | D3 EGU Museum R Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat Grandagarður 8 | B2 GUNNAR 13–17 and by appoint- R www.maritime-vv U ment. www.i8.is G FLÓK AG museum.is ATA RSTÍ The Icelandic Phal- Reykjavík Museum of lological Museum Photography Shopping 11 Fjallakofinn 12 JÖR Laugavegur 116 | F8 Tryggvagata 16 | D3 www.phallus.is Laugavegur 11 Laugavegur 89 Weekdays 12–19 / Sat– 10 Farmers Market Kirsuberjatréð Sun 13–17 If outdoor sporting is your bag, then Grandi, Hólmaslóð 2 This high-end men’s fashion boutique Vesturgata 4 | C2 www.ljosmyndasafn- Fjallakofinn is your kind of place, baby. This www.kirs.is caters to those whose bodies only tolerate reykjavikur.is This design company and fashion line holds shop full of experts will set you up with all the finest fabrics and most delicate of tailor- Kling & Bang Saga Museum the integral values of sustainability, longevity, your climbing, hiking, camping, skiing and ing. Head designer Guðmundur Jörunds- Hverfisgata 42 | E6 Perlan, open daily 10-18 Thurs–Sun from 14–18 originality and environmentalism. Their general good-times-in-nature needs. son, who honed his craft in the exclusive www.sagamuseum.is www.this.is/klingogbang modern take on the traditional Icelandic haberdasher Kormaks & Skjaldar, gives Sigurjón Ólafsson lopapeysa has struck chords worldwide. impeccable attention to each item, leaving Knitting Iceland Museum These are must-have items for locals and the wearer feeling like a million bucks. Laugavegur 25 | E6 Laugarnestangi 70 www.knittingiceland.is visitors alike. www.lso.is Kunstschlager SÍM Public phones The National and University Library, Public Toilets Rauðarárstígur 1 | G8 Hafnarstræti 16 | D4 Arngrímsgata 3 Mon-Sat from 15-18 Mon-Fri 10-16 There aren’t many public payphones in the Public toilets in the centre can be found www.kunstschlager.com Tourist Information Centre, Aðalstræti 2 www.sim.is city centre. The tourist information centre inside the green poster covered tow- Living Art Museum Spark Design Space Icelandic Travel Market, Bankastræti 2 ers located, for example, at Hlemmur, at Aðalstræti 2, City Hall, Kolaportið, Skúlagata 28 | E7 Klapparstígur 33 | E5 entrance at Landsbankinn and in Lækjar- Reykjavík Backpackers, Laugavegur 28 Ingólfstortorg, by Hallgrímskirkja, by Tue-Sun 12-17 Mon-Fri 10-18 Reykjavík Art Museum, Lækjargata and by gata. Prepaid international phone cards Swimming Pools www.nylo.is Sat 12-16 Eymundsson on Skólavörðustígur. Toilets www.sparkdesign- are recommended for int’l callers. There are several swimming pools in Mokka Kaffi can also be found inside the Reykjavík space.com Internet Access Reykjavík. The one in 101 Reykjavík, Skólavörðustígur 3A | E5 City Hall and the Reykjavík Library. www.mokka.is Wind & Weather Most cafés offer free wireless internet Sundhöll Reykjavíkur, is an indoor one, Gallery access. Computers with internet connec- located at Barónsstígur. That pool features The National Gallery of Iceland Hverfisgata 37 | E6 tions are available to use at: a nice sunbathing area and some outdoor Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | F4 Open daily 09-02 hot tubs. Opening hours: Monday to Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Tjarnargata 11 Tue–Sun 11–17 www.windandweather.is Thursday from 06:30–22:00, Friday from Ground Zero, Frakkastígur 8, near www.listasafn.is ÞOKA 06:30–20:00, Saturday from 08:00–16:00, Laugavegur 45 The National Museum Laugavegur 25 | E5 and Sunday from 10:00–18:00. www.thoka.is The Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagata 15 Suðurgata 41 | G2 Open daily 10–17 F www.natmus.is

E Best Of Reykjavík Every year around the beginning of July, we make a BEST OF REYKJAVÍK ISSUE celebrating some of what makes Reykjavík-life worthwhile, posting some good entries into a hopefully neverending discussion. The primary purpose of BEST OF REYKJAVÍK is celebration! It’s about big-upping stuff, giving mad props to it and patting it on the shoulder. The following are some nice tips we pulled from BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2013 which you can read in full at www.grapevine.is

BEST SOUP: BEST PLACE TO CHEER UP: BEST RECORD STORE: KRYDDLEGIN HJÖRTU HÚSDÝRAGARÐURINN LUCKY RECORDS

It’s kind of surprising, but Reykjavík is quite Another third time winner, Reykjavík’s Now in its huge new digs on Rauðarástígur, the soup town, what with so many places petting zoo is just perfect if you’ve got Lucky Records is likely to win BEST offering their own take on the classic meat a terminal case of the blues. There are RECORD STORE for all perpetuity. It’s not soup, lobster soup and other crazy blends. few things as uplifting as watching the just the great selection of records that Only Kryddlegin Hjörtu (“the spicy heart”) baby seal cubs swimming around in their makes Lucky the best, it’s also the store’s really specialises in soup though, and the massive pool, or watching those adorable personality, which has only gotten better soup-lovers on our panel were all pretty lambs take their first shaky steps on the since the move. Many of us are devoted adamant of its top-dog status. The buffet- green meadows. If you’ve got a dark sense customers and we are so proud to see style restaurant offers four different soups of humour, you can also cheer up over the them doing great things. Luck really is on a day alongside a colourful, healthy and fact that at the end of summer the seal their side. fresh salad bar. We admit that not ALL cubs get fed to the foxes, and members of their broths are Soup Nazi-great, but most the staff eat the oh-so tender lambs. of them are so fucking delicious. Plus, the owner washes all the vegetables in crystals. CRYSTALS

Located at Skúlagata 17 Located at Múlavegur 2 Located at Rauðarárstígur 10

The National Hótel Natura Every day from 16:00 to 18:00. Museum of A GUIDE 50 percent off all drinks, beer 475 ISK (Tuborg), wine 625 ISK. THAT FUCKS Hótel Plaza Bar Iceland Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Beer 500 ISK. YOU UP Iða Zimsen Coffee happy hour every day from 8:00-10:00. Along with the permanent exhibition All coffee 300 ISKAlcoohol from 19:00-22:00 A list of every Beer (Gull, Tuborg) 445 ISK that features Iceland’s history from Kaffi Kompaníið settlement to present day the Happy Hour in Thursday to Sunday from 14:00 to 17:00. 2 for 1 beer 850 ISK, wine 700 ISK. museum offers a variety of exhibitions 101 Reykjavík Kaldibar during the year, e.g. on Icelandic Every day from 17:00 to 20:00. 2 for 1 on beer and wine. silver and photography. 101 Hótel Every day from 17:00-19:00. Beer 475 ISK and Kiki Queer Bar Thursdays from 20:00 to 22:00. wine 595 ISK. Beer 450 ISK, wine 600 ISK. Austur Thursday to Saturday from 20:00 to 00:00 Kolabrautin Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Beer 800 ISK and wine 800 ISK. Beer 450 ISK, Wine 700 ISK, Cocktails from B5 1000 ISK, Champagne glass 1500 ISK. Every day from 16:00-22:00. Beer 550 Lebowski Bar ISK, cider 700 ISK, wine 550 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. www.thjodminjasafn.is Bar 11 2 for 1 beer 900 ISK and wine for 1100 ISK. Suðurgata 41 / 101 Reykjavík Thursdays to Saturdays from Loft Hostel Bar 21:00-00:00. Beer 500 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Bjarni Fel Download the FREE Beer 500 ISK, cider 500 ISK, wine 700 ISK. Monday to Friday from 21:00-23:00. 2 for 1 one Beer 990 ISK, one single shot with soda Grapevine Appy Micro Bar Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Beer 600 ISK. 1300 ISK or with energy drink 1400 ISK. Hour app! Boston Miðgarður Bistro bar Every day from 16:00 to 20:00, Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. All drinks half Every happy hour in price, Beer 500 ISK, Wine 600 ISK. Now offering Beer 550 ISK, Wine 550 ISK. Bunk Bar town in your pocket. Nora Magasin Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Available in the App Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Viking Beer for Wine 700 ISK, Beer 2 for 1 900 ISK. 500 ISK, House Wine for 600 ISK. catering service! Celtic Cross store and on the Prikið Every day from 17:00 to 20:00. Monday to Friday from 16:00 to 20:00. 2 for 1 Viking 750 ISK, Viking Classic 850 ISK. Beer for 600 ISK. Android Market. Den Danske Kro Gamli Gaukurinn Roadhouse Every day from 16:00-19:00. 2 for 1 Beer 950 Every day from 21:00 - 22:00. Friday and Saturday 22:00 to 23:00. Thule beer 500 ISK, single shot 500 ISK. ISK, 2 for 1 Guiness 1000 ISK and 2 for 1 2 for 1 Beer 895 ISK, Wine 895 ISK. wine 1000 ISK. Glaumbar Santa Karamba Dillon Monday to Thursday from 21:00 - 1:00. Friday Monday to Saturday from 16:00 to 20:00. Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. to Saturday 21:00 - 4:30. Beer 390 ISK. Beer 500 ISK. Beer, Wine and Whisky 550 ISK. Harlem SKY Bar & Lounge Dolly Every day from 17:00 to 22:00. Every day from 17:00 to 19:00, Beer 500 ISK, Beer 550 ISK, wine 700 ISK. Tuesday to Thursday from 20:00 to 22:00, Wine 800 ISK. Friday and Saturday from 17:00-22:00. Beer Hilton Hotel Bar Slippbarinn 500 ISK, wine 500 ISK. Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Every day from 16:00 to 18:00. Beer 500 ISK, All drinks half price. Dubliner Wine 500 ISK, selected coctails 950 ISK. Every day from opening - 22:00. 2 for 1 Tuborg Hótel 1919 Stofan Open: 1000 ISK, 2 for 1 wine 1000 ISK, Shot of Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Beer 600 ISK, Every day from 17:00 to 20:00. Jameson 900 ISK. Wine 575 ISK, Cocktail of the Day half price. Mondays-Saturdays 11:30-22:30 Beer 650 ISK and Wine 800 ISK. Einar Ben Hótel Holt Gallery Bar Þingholtsbar Sundays 16:00-22:00 Every day from 19:00 to 21:00. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Beer 650 ISK, Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Beer 500 ISK. Beer 500 ISK. wine 750 ISK, cocktail of the day 1200 ISK ART ONGOING

– continued – i8 Gallery Hörður Ágústsson, Camilla Løw, Sergio Sister, Thór Vigfússon This show combines the work of three artists coming from different generations. It focusses on the differences and similarities in matters of style and the ideas behind their projects. Runs until February 1 The Icelandic Phallological Museum Kópavogur The museum contains a collection of Art Museum- more than two hundred and fifteen Gerðarsafn penises and penile parts belonging to Hamraborg 4, Kópavogur almost all the land and sea mammals Tel. +354 570 0440 that can be found in Iceland. Open 11–17 On permanent view Closed on Mondays Kling & Bang www.gerdarsafn.is Ragnar Kjartansson – The Visitors A nine-channel video installation Reflection Perfection 350 years of Árni Magnússon depicting the bohemian gathering The Scintilla Mirror Exhibition The artist’s model book of a group of friends and musicians Hönnunarsafn Íslands in Upstate New York. Takes its title Museum of Design from ABBA’s last album, which Spark Design Space | Nov. 21 - Feb. 28 | Free! and Applied Art was marked by divorce and defeat. Garðatorg 1, Garðabær Performing musicians and poets There’s still time to catch a glimpse of yourself at the ongoing Tel. +354 512 1525 almost entirely from Reykjavík music Open 12–17 scene. mirror exhibition in Spark Design Space, presented by the Icelan- Closed on Mondays Runs until February 9 dic design brand Scintilla, which will run until February 28. The www.honnunarsafn.is Knitting Iceland exhibition contains mirrors of a wide range of sizes displayed with Whether you are a beginner or pro, Next exhibition opens on you can come knit at Laugavegur strong post-modern, Art Deco, and 80s Memphis Group influ- Hafnarborg ences. SPARK is a platform for local design projects and is open Febuary 7th 25, 3rd floor, every Thursday, 14:00 The Hafnarfjordur Exhibition shop is open - 18:00. on weekdays from 10:00 to 18:00 and on weekends from 12:00 Centre of Culture On permanent view to 16:00. Also a great opportunity to see if your friend is really a and Fine Art National Gallery Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður CREATIONS vampire. BS Tel. +354 585 5790 Kristín Gunnlaugsdóttir’s art works Open 12–17 are shaped by the contrast of erotics Thursdays 12–21 and religion. Her consummate Find all art listings Closed on Tuesdays T draughtsmanship and exquisite online o th handling of materials is in stark www.hafnarborg.is e B lue L contrast to the bold, even shocking agoon listings.grapevine.is Paintings, drawings and design way in which she presents her works. by Rúna – Sigrún Guðjónsdóttir Runs until January 19 TREASURES - Beasts in Cages This exhibition gives a good insight into the variety of Icelandic art in Reykjavík Art Museum - Petites Pauses modern and contemporary periods. Kjarvalsstadir This is the first of a series of In addition to the National Gallery’s Inside Alexanders Rodchenko exhibitions in Kubbin (The Cube) collection, prints by Edvard Munch, Numerous photographs taken by one where various photographers whose 150th anniversary will be of the most important Russian artists can share their images through a celebrated on December 12, are on of the early 20th century will be projector. The first exhibition is “Petit display as well. exhibited. Curator is Olga Sviblova. Pause” by the French photographer, Runs until January 19 Runs until January 12 composer and musician Vincent The National Museum Jóhannes Kjarval by the banks Malassis. Vincent works with realism The Making Of A Nation In this exhibition, several art works in photography and the traditional This exhibition is intended to provide created by Jóhannes Kjarval, one of interpretation seen in occidental insight into the history of the the most famous Icelandic artists, painting. Icelandic nation from the Settlement will be displayed. Since many of the Runs until May 9 to the present day. pictures are owned by the banks, Volcano House On permanent view this will be the first time ever they are The exhibition gives a brief overview New Icelandic Sigfús Eymundsson Photography available at one single place. of Iceland’s geological history A pioneer of Icelandic photography, Runs until January 26 and volcanic systems with superb this is an exhibit that taps into the The Reykjavík City Library photographs of volcanic eruptions cultural heritage of Iceland. The collection centers around new and other magnificent aspects of Music Runs until January 10 Nordic literature, both fiction and Icelandic nature. Nordic House nonfiction. The library lends out On permanent view Bog Of Gold Exhibition novels, academic publications, audio Spark Design Space Steinunn Gunnlaugsdóttir, books and more. Reflection THU 30 JAN » 19:30 Ósk Vilhjálmsdóttir and Hildur On permanent view Linda Árnadóttir, the founder and Hákonardóttir put on their second Reykjavík City Museum creative director of Scintilla, will exhibition together. Reykjavík 871 +/- 2: The open a show of MIRRORS. Up until The opening concert of Dark Music Runs until January 12 Settlement Exhibition the present Scintilla has focused on Days in Harpa Music Hall features The Old Harbour Archaeological findings from ruins of creating textiles for the home but will Iceland Expo Pavillion one of the first houses in Iceland and now extend its product range and the Iceland Symphony Orchestra, Every day from 10:00 to 22:00, other excavations in the city centre, create new products from different performing an array of new Icelandic Sagafilms projects a film of Icelandic open daily 10:00-17:00. materials. Scintilla, which has always scenery inside their Iceland Expo On permanent view emphasized progressive graphics music. Also Three Movements by Pavillion which provides a unique 360 Reykjavík Maritime Museum and patterns will, on the 21st of Steve Reich, featured in the new degree movie experience. From Poverty to Abundance November, unveil a new collection of On permanent view Photos documenting Icelandic mirrors. Hunger Games movie. Reykjavík Art Museum - fishermen at the turn of the 20th Runs until February 28 Hafnarhús century. Týs Gallerí Tomas Martišauskis: Creature On permanent view Barabarrtré Haukur Tómasson Lithuanian artist Tomas Martišauskis The History of Sailing Sara Riel’s new exhibit (“Only In seventh heaven translates the notion of traditional Iceland's maritime history that Conifer”) examines the conifer’s sculpture by translating a sculptural showcases the growth of the role in Iceland outside of the holiday Daníel Bjarnason object into various mediums. The Reykjavík Harbour. season and different ways to look at The Isle is full of noises object itself will not appear in the On permanent view Icelandic foresting. exhibit, only these “authentic” copies. The Coast Guard Vessel Óðinn Runs until January 18 Þuríður Jónsdóttir Runs until January 12 This vessel sailed through all three Wind and Weather Gallery New work Icelandic Video Art 1975 - 1990 Cod Wars and has also served as a Spun Mustard Silkrock This exhibition explores the first steps rescue ship to over 200 ships. This exhibition is an assemblage of Steve Reich taken by Icelandic artists to use video On permanent view different media. The composition Three Movements as an artistic medium. The works Reykjavík Museum Of is in itself a conversation between shown were first exhibited in Iceland Photography texture and colours, the cyber and between 1980 and 1990 and only a Contemporary Landscape the organic. Daníel Bjarnason few have been shown since then. This exhibition consists of 12 works Runs until March 4 Runs until January 19 by Icelandic Photographers who are Conductor focussing on nature in Iceland. It is The Hamrahlíð Choirs not about “post card photography” but the connection between human beings and nature itself. Runs until January 12

Box office » +354 528 5050 » www.sinfonia.is » www.harpa.is F D For your mind, body and soul

L’Italia Il Modo Americano

UNO long since been acknowledged as a cooked. You could still spot every Hafnarstræti 1-3, 101 Reykjavík genre in itself. An example would grain, which means it was al dente, be fried mozzarella sticks (on the as it should be. It was served with What We Think: starter menu) with sweet chilli a whole confit leg of duck, which Italian cuisine with a touch of sauce. I somehow doubt that you was a bit odd. My companion had Americana. will find sweet chilli sauce in the to start by stripping the meat off Flavour: middle of Tuscany... even if it’s the the bone, and yes there was plenty Italian, American, Southern- size of North Dakota. of meat to be stripped. The dish European. Uno also offers a tasting menu proved delicious, but the portion Ambiance: of five courses for 6,990 ISK, or 8 was simply huge—so huge that we Family style, laid back. courses for 8,990, but my com- almost felt guilty. panion and I decided to choose The rigatoni presented the same Service: from the menu, which consists of problem. The rigatoni itself was Enthusiastic, friendly. a dozen starters of various kinds, perfectly cooked and well seasoned. Price for 2 (with drinks): about the same number of risotto The meat came from slowly braised 14–15,000 ISK and pasta dishes along with some beef shanks, which had been hardy meat and fish courses. stripped off the bone for me—a My companion chose the beef strange piece of inconsistency. It Carpaccio, while I decided upon the was served with pickled chillies, baked goat cheese. The Carpac- which were almost sweet to the When Uno first opened its doors cio was nicely seasoned and had tooth yet contained a touch of their in 2011 it was a revelation. Finally, generous amounts of Parmesan original heat. That said, I came there was an Italian restaurant in shavings. It was a bit grey in some nowhere near finishing my dish. Reykjavík that served fresh pasta areas, perhaps having been frozen The idea of dessert was out of the dishes without leaving the custom- for a bit too long. The walnuts question. In fact, we could barely finish er bankrupt in the process. But that could have been broken up a bit our drinks. Some might not find this was all in the beginning, and the better. The goat’s cheese was excel- problematic at all, and it isn’t. As stated establishment has changed hands lent, oozing from the first touch. It above, this is a family style place that of- quite a few times since then, as I was wrapped in Parma ham with fers hearty meals for a fair price. And it understand it. roasted peanuts and fig jam. The seemed to be working as far as I could I was prepared to find an jam was spot on and the Parma tell. The atmosphere is welcoming and ham was crisp, providing a wonder- friendly. Our servers, while quite young, entirely new mrestaurant a n y f a whenm o u Is p e o p l e a r e r e g u l a r s h e r e visited this time but, surprisingly, ful contrast to the melting cheese. were enthusiastic, presented everything the menu hadn’t changed that At this point it must be noted eloquently and kept our glasses full the much, if at all. Uno’s style can’t be that the starters were of hefty pro- whole time. I think the next time I visit considered classic Italian Cuisine portions. Therefore, we were look- Uno, it will be for lunch, for something save for a few dishes. It feels more ing towards something light for a like a single main course. That will like an Americanised version of main course. My companion had undoubtedly keep me well nourished classic Italian with a “family style” the mushroom and duck risotto for the remainder of the day. environment—in the same vein and I decided to see if the pasta as The Olive Garden or Jamie was as fresh as Uno would have us believe by choosing beef and chilli Oliver-inspired restaurants. This BJÖRN TEITSSON rigatoni. The risotto was nicely is not necessarily negative and has NANNA DÍS

m a n y f a m o u s p e o p l e a r e r e g u l a r s h e r e w w w . b a n t h a i . i s

the finest Thai restaurant in Iceland the best thai food Ban Thai2009, 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013 1/10 Best Restaurants In Iceland Best Goddamn Restaurant 2011 Laugavegur 130, ofan við Hlemm b a n t h a i @ b a n t h a i . i s Tel : 692-0564 A l s o R e c o m m e n d . . . . . y u m m i y u m m i Tel: 588-2121 H v e r f i s g a t a 123, 105 Rvk. w w w . y u m m y . i s You Can’t Hurry Love

Einar Ben skyr, seafood and lamb. It should my dish came with a rucola and feta be noted that the menu had at least cheese salad, which did not really serve Veltusund 1, 101 Reykjavík five spelling errors. This is not to any purpose. The sweet potato purée be taken lightly; proofreading is the was a fine choice for accompaniment. What We Think: least you can do when producing For dessert we decided to share a Icelandic cuisine, at a high price. a text that is essentially the face of crème brûlée with cream and fruit. Flavour: your business. The crème brûlée was very nice, its Scandinavian, with French and My companion chose a beef surface breaking like thin ice while Italian touches. Carpaccio with roasted almonds as the pudding itself remained soft and Ambiance: a starter, while I had the fish soup airy. However, it seems very odd to Casual fine dining. “filled with seafood and skyr cream.” add cream on the side. Cream with Service: The Carpaccio was quite dull—un- cream. Sounds like a rap song. Matched the food, mediocre. derseasoned and missing Parmesan Overall, our journey was some- shavings, which could have done a what lacklustre and it seems quite ob- Price for 2 (with drinks): lot. The almonds were not roasted ei- vious that Einar Ben has seen better 20–24,000 ISK ther. It came with a homemade pesto, days. The fact that there are different which was fairly nice. The fish soup menus could mean that they are in was very thick and heavy, more like a the process of developing a new one, Louisiana gumbo than a soup. It was rather than simply lagging in ambi- filled with seafood for sure, mostly tion. There were nonetheless faults Einar Ben is one of those restau- pieces of cod and salmon, which are in the service. At no point were our rants in Reykjavík that seems to likely trimmings from the fillets used dishes explained to us and the tempo be a permanent fixture in the city. for the main courses. Nothing wrong of our meal was much too fast, even They’ve been there for as long as I with that, but the pieces of fish were after I made a point of saying that we can remember, serving up Icelan- not evenly cooked. Some were crisp, were in no hurry whatsoever upon ar- dic cuisine—as far as that concept while others were chewy. The skyr rival. It’s like Diana Ross’s mom said, goes—for generations. This would, cream brought about tartness, a lac- “you can’t hurry love.” and should, bring about certain tose acidity, which was not pleasing expectations for a fantastic evening to be honest. in the age-old establishment. For a main course, my companion Einar Ben is located near Ingólfs- chose the “lamb fillet, lamb shanks torg, in a wooden building from the with potato terrine, root vegetables early 20th century. The decor is very and red vine sauce,” spelling error 1950s, resembling a stately Icelandic included. I settled for fried cod, with home from the era, of which there butter noisette potatoes and a sweet weren’t too many at the time. potato purée. The lamb was nicely The menu listed on the restau- cooked, especially the shank, which rant’s website is not the same as the was smothered in sauce. The sauce physical menu you're offered there. itself was a bit too heavy, but tasted That one is comprised of four start- nice. The root vegetables were spot ers, four main courses and two des- on. The cod was cooked perfectly, serts. The dishes are typical Icelandic crisp on the outside yet soft and BJÖRN TEITSSON restaurant items, meant to showcase flaky on the inside. As it should be. NANNA DÍS the best of the local product: butter, The potatoes needed seasoning and

Reykjavik Est. 2012

FRENCH ONION SOUP Icelandic Ísbúi cheese, croûtons 1.790.kr

MOULES MARINIÈRES steamed mussels from Breið afjörð ur 1.800.kr CATCH OF THE DAY today´s fresh seafood in a rich fish broth 3.200.kr

101 ÓÐ INSTORG REYKJAVÍK ÍSLAND SNAPSBISTRO.IS [email protected] +354 5116677 Transfer complete

Now on Laugavegur 17

Laugavegur 17 Orkusýn Lindin Laugarvatn Fontana Hellisheiði s +354 412 5800, +354 660 9400, Lindarbraut 2, 840 Laugarvatn s +354 486 1262 Hverabraut 1, Laugarvatn s +354 486 1400 [email protected] s www.orkusyn.is s [email protected] s www.laugarvatn.is [email protected] s www.fontana.is

A Geothermal Energy Exhibition Lindin Restaurant & Café Bistro, stands on a Stop by the Hellisheiði Geothermal Power firm foundation of culinary excellence that Laugarvatn Fontana is a place where you Plant and visit the Geothermal Energy has attracted patrons from around the world. come to relax and experience authentic Exhibition in the visitors centre. The plant Lindin is located in the village of Laugarvatn, Icelandic nature while relaxing in the warm is a striking example of how geothermal right beside the lovely natural steam baths geothermal pools and natural steam rooms. energy is harnessed in a sustainable manner and pool at Fontana Spa. The 45 minute Hot, healing steam simmers directly from in Iceland . scenic drive from Reykjavik takes you the ground at Fontana through grids in the Experienced guides give informative through enchanting landscapes between cabin floors of this newly decorated presentations backed by multimedia shows Geysir/Gullfoss and Thingvellir, making this wellness center where nature meets about sustainable green energy as a global an excellent choice for a day’s journey. tradition. energy source. Visit an exclusive collection The baths vary in depth, size and of minerals and stones. temperature and the steam rooms that Enjoy our coffee shop and browse through have been built over natural hot springs our gift shop of local arts and crafts. Open that has been used in this purpose since daily from 09:00 – 17:00. 1929. Fontana is situated by the beautiful lake Laugarvatn and you can enjoy the spectacular views from the sauna or the pools.

Reykjavik

Kvöldstjarnan Kaffi Krús Hótel Geysir Stjörnusteinar 7 s 825 Stokkseyri Austurvegi 7 - 800 Selfoss s +354 4821266 +354 480 6800 +354 4831800 s www.kvoldstjarnan.is s [email protected] swww.kaffikrus.is [email protected] s www.geysircenter.is [email protected]

,,The Guesthouse Kvöldstjarnan which is Veitinga- og kaffihúsið Kaffi krús er 20 situated in Stokkseyri, has 6 rooms and total ára í ár. Kaffi krús er eitt elsta húsið á Country hotel by the great Geyser and the of 11 beds. 5 beds in a separate apartment Selfossi, byggt árið 1931 og er staðsett í hot spring area. on second floor and 6 beds on the ground hjarta miðbæjarins á Selfoss. Matseðillinn Conference/meetings in a peaceful floor. Both floors have fully equipped telur 60 rétti og á hverjum degi eru 8-12 surroundings. Activity in an extraordinary kitchen. So why not stay awhile at the Star heimabakaðar kökur í boði . Sólpallur við scenery in a stunning nature. Swimming in on the shore?" húsið tekur um 70 manns og er fljótur að natural hot spring pool with pure Geyser fyllast á góðvirðisdögum. water or relax in our hot tubs. Gourmet Café/Restaurant Kaffi Krús has been around restaurant and Geyser by your window, for 20 years. It’s located in one of the oldest la carte, buffet or BBQ in the forest on houses in Selfoss, built in 1931. The menu an open fire. Our motto is using local has 60 different courses and every day we ingredients of highest quality and freshness. offer a variety of 8-12 homebaked cakes. Be an Icelander and stay with us and live Seating available on the terrace, ideal for a the life that we do every day. Hiking in our relaxing refreshment on sunny days. little forest Haukadalur, educate your family in our Geysistofa multimedia museum and enjoy our beautiful design store next door. Arctic adventures Hótel Geirland LÁ Art Museum Laugavegur 11, Reykjavík s +354 562 7000 Geirland, 880 Kirkjubæjarklaustur s +354 !USTURVEGI (VERAGERIs [email protected] s www.adventures.is 487 4677 s[email protected]s www. LISTASAFN LISTASAFNARNESINGAISsWWW geirland.is listasafnarnesinga.is

A unique experience in the countryside of Iceland's premier eco-friendly Iceland, located only 2 km from adventure tour operator Kirkjubæjar–klaustur. We offer total of 40 From spewing volcanoes and vast glaciers cozy rooms all with ensuite bathroom. Hótel Give visit a chance - it might surprise you to rugged coastlines and raging rivers, Geirland is the perfect choice for nature Arctic Adventures is Iceland's premier eco- lovers who like to walk, hike or simply enjoy Only 40 minutes drive from Reykjavik on friendly adventure tour operator. With seven the beautiful surroundings and northern the Golden Circle in the geothermal town base camps scattered around Iceland's lights. Our restaurant provides authentic Hveragerði. great outdoor playground, we are the local Icelandic food straight from the farm. Enjoy ambitious exhibitions of modern specialists just about everywhere adventure Mission of the hotel is to strive hard to and contemporary art in our four spacious is to be found! With a full menu of glacier provide high standard personal service to galleries. hiking, river rafting, trekking, sea kayaking, make the stay memorable and enjoyable for A peaceful setting with wealth of art related caving, snowmobiling, super-jeep safaris, the guests. material supplied, and a small Café. snorkeling, surfing, quad biking, and much more, the possibilities are truly endless! Arctic Adventures offers everything from day tours to multi-sport expeditions, rain or shine, all year round. Join us and explore a wilderness like none other!

LEGEND

FOOD/DRINK ACCOMODATION ACTIVITY

Jökulsárlón Mountain Guides Katla Geopark Jökulsárlón,Reynivöllum 3 / 781 / Hornafjörður s tel. (+354) 4782222 swww.jokulsarlon.is +354 587 9999 s mountainguides@ Víkurbraut 28 +354 487 1395 mountainguides.is s www.mountainguides.is s [email protected] www.visitvik.is

, is one of Icelandic Mountain Guides' Glacier Walks Katlacenter, information and security center Icelands most visited places and that’s no are a safe but fun activity and a great way to Vík í Mýrdal. wonder. The lagoons unique scenery has experience the wonders of the Icelandic Katlacenter is located in the town of Vík. long inspired travellers from all over the Nature. Glacier Walks are easy and Katlacenter hosts the local information world. accessible for both individuals and groups and security center. In Katlacenter you can Visit this magical place and enjoy our and have become one of the most popular also find an amazing exhibition about the freshly made sandwiches and pastry at our tourism activity in Iceland. Icelandic volcano Katla and see how it has effected wonderful café. Why not have a meal while Mountain Guides' Glacier Walks are the people who live in the area. you witness one of natures great spectacles operated every day, all year on In winter it‘s open Monday – Thursday 09 as Europes largest glacier crumbles away to Sóheimajökull glacier and in Skaftafell – 16 and Fridays 09 – 13. Weekends closed. sea one enormous piece at a time. If you are national park from the 1st of February 2013. From the 1. of mai – 1. oktober it‘s open from lucky you might even see some seals. Make Sure it's Mountain Guides. early to late. We have great offers for groups of various sizes so make table reservations in advance.

Adventure tours Scheduled ﬂights Air Charter services Höfn Reykjavík

pick up our brochure at your hotel or local tourist Day tours to information centre, or visit us at eagleair.is Vatnajökull Region Discover the natural wonders of Vatnajökull glacier and glacier lagoon Photo: Björgvin Hilmarsson

Members of South-Iceland Marketing Ofﬁce:

Sveitarfélagið Árborg www.arborg.is Hekla Cabins - Rjúpnavellir www.rjupnavellir.is Byggðasafn Árnesinga - Húsið www.husid.com Icelandic Horse World - visitor center www.iceworld.is Guðmundur Tyrfingsson - GT Travel www.gtyrfingsson.is Hótel Lækur www.hotellaekur.is Hótel Selfoss www.hotelselfoss.is Landborgir www.landborgir.is Bed and Breakfast www.bandb.is Árhús www.arhus.is Gesthús www.gesthus.is Guesthouse Nonni www.bbiceland.com Sea Side Cottages www.seasidecottages.is Rangárþing eystra www.hvolsvollur.is Guesthouse Kvöldstjarnan www.kvoldstjarnan.is Sögusetrið www.njala.is Fosstún www.fosstun.is Skógarsafn www.skogasafn.is Kaffi Krús www.kaffikrus.is Hellishólar www.hellisholar.is Fjöruborðið www.fjorubordid.is South Iceland Adventure www.siadv.is Rauða húsið www.raudahusid.is Southcoast Adventure www.southadventure.is Menam www.menam.is Country Hotel Anna www.hotelanna.is Handverksskúrinn Hótel Hvolsvöllur www.hotelhvolsvollur.is Geiri á Bakkanum www.menningarstadur.123.is Gestastofan Þorvaldseyri www.icelanderupts.is Gistiheimilið Bitra www.guesthousebitra.is Hótel Fljótshlíð / Smáratún www.smaratun.is Tryggvaskáli www.tryggvaskali.is Eldstó www.eldsto.is The Bobby Fisher Center www.fishersetur.is Kaffi Langbrók www.rang.is/langbrok Hveragerðisbær www.hveragerdi.is Eldfjallaskálarnir Húsadal / Volcano Huts www.volcanohuts.com Hveragarðurinn www.hveragerdi.is Söluskálinn Björkin Listasafn Árnesinga www.listasafnarnesinga.is Skálakot www.skalakot.com Hótel Örk www.hotelork.is Welcome Hotel Lambafell www.lambafell.is Frumskógar www.frumskogar.is Hótel Skógar www.hotelskogar.is Iceland Activitities www.icelandactivities.is Hótel Skógafoss www.hotelskogafoss.is Hofland setrið www.hoflandsetrid.is Mýrdalshreppur www.vik.is Kjöt & Kúnst www.kjotogkunst.net Kötlusetur www.kotlusetur.is Dalakaffi www.dalakaffi.is Halldórskaffi www.halldorskaffi.is Hótel Frost og funi www.frostogfuni.is Þakgil - camping site with cabins www.thakgil.is Sveitarfélagið Ölfus www.olfus.is Arcanum-ferðaþjónusta www.arcanum.is Eldhestar www.eldhestar.is Íslenskir Fjallaleiðsögumenn www.mountainguides.is Hellisheiðarvirkjun www.orkusyn.is Víkurprjón / Icewear www.icewear.is Sólhestar www.solhestar.is Hótel Lundi www.hotellundi.is Hendur í Höfn www.hendurihofn.is Hótel Katla - Höfðabrekka www.hotelkatla.is Gistiheimilið Hjarðaból www.hjardarbol.is Café Sólheimajökull Núpar www.nupar.is Hótel Vík í Mýrdal www.hoteledda.is/hotels/hotel-edda-vik Flóahreppur www.floahreppur.is Ströndin restaurant www.strondin.is Gistiheimilið Lambastöðum www.lambastadir.is Skaftárhreppur www.klaustur.is Iceland South Coast Travel www.isct.is Kirkjubæjarstofa www.kbkl.is Þingborg www.thingborg.net Ferðaþjónustan Hunkubökkum www.hunkubakkar.is Countryhotel Vatnsholt www.hotelvatnsholt.is Hótel Laki www.hotellaki.is Gaulverjaskóli Hostel www.south-hostel.is Hótel Geirland www.geirland.is Grímsnes- og Grafningshreppur www.gogg.is Hótel Klaustur www.icelandairhotels.is/hotels/klaustur Eco village www.solheimar.is Hólasport www.holasport.is Sesseljuhús www.sesseljuhus.is Hólaskjól www.eldgja.is Gallery Vala www.solheimar.is Islandia hotel Núpar www.islandiahotel.is Hótel Grímsborgir www.grimsborgir.is Sveitarfélagið Hornafjörður www.hornafjordur.is Útilífsmiðstöðin Úlfljótsvatn www.ulfljotsvatn.is Skaftafellsstofa www.vjp.is Sólheimar Gesthús www.solheimar.is Þórbergssetur www.thorbergssetur.is Ion Luxury Adventure Hotel www.ionhotel.is Hofsnes www.hofsnes.com Bláskógarbyggð www.blaskogabyggd.is Jökulsárlón www.jokulsarlon.is Ferðaþjónustan Úthlíð www.uthlid.is Hólmur Ferðaþjónusta www.eldhorn.is/mg/gisting Kerlingafjöll www.kerlingarfjoll.is Hoffell / GlacierWorld www.hoffell.com Friðheimar www.fridheimar.is Gerði Gistiheimili www.farmholidays.is/FarmDetails.aspx?No=595 Skálholt www.skalholt.is Hali Guesthouse www.hali.is Iceland Riverjet www.icelandriverjet.com Country Hotel Smyrlabjörg www.smyrlabjorg.is Farmhotel Efstidalur 2 www.efstidalur.is Tjaldsvæðið Höfn www.campsite.is Hótel Geysir www.geysircenter.is Brunnhóll Ferðaþjónusta www.brunnholl.is Guesthouse Skálinn www.gljasteinn.is Fosshótel Vatnajökull www.fosshotel.is/is/fosshotel/fosshotel-vatnajokull Gullfosskaffi www.gullfoss.is Hótel Höfn www.hotelhofn.is Hótel Gullfoss www.hotelgullfoss.is Glacier guides www.glacierguides.is Arctic rafting www.arcticrafting.is Local Guide / Öræfaferðir www.localguide.is Bjarkarhóll ehf www.garn.is Humarhöfnin www.humarhofnin.is Iceland Safari www.icelandsafari.com Vatnajökull travel www.vatnajokull.is Geysir Green Guesthouse www.geysirgreenguesthouse.is Ís & ævintýri /Jöklajeppar www.glacierjeeps.is Kjóastaðir 2 www.goldencirlcleriding.is Ríki Vatnajökuls www.visitvatnajokull.is Laugarvatn Adventure www.caving.is Hof 1 Hótel www.hof1.is Laugarvatn Fontana www.fontana.is Atlantsflug www.atf.is Gallerí Laugavatn www.gallerilaugarvatn.is Sagnheimar www.sagnheimar.is Lindin restaurant www.laugarvatn.is Sæheimar www.saeheimar.is Golden Circle Apartments www.goldencircleapartments.is Hótel Vestmannaeyjar www.hotelvestmannaeyjar.is Héraðsskólinn Hostel & Travel Centre www.heradsskolinn.is Hótel Eyjar www.hoteleyjar.eyjar.is Skeiða- og Gnúpverjahreppur www.skeidgnup.is Rib Safari www.ribsafari.is Steinsholt www.steinsholt.is Viking Tours www.vikingtours.is Vorsabær 2 www.vorsabae2.is STUDIO 7 www.woolshop.is Hótel Hekla Golfv. www.hotelhekla.is Kynnisferðir / Reykjavík Excursions www.re.is Hótel Hekla www.hotelhekla.is Snæland Grímsson www.snaeland.is Hrunamannahreppur www.fludir.is Allra handa / Iceland Excursions www.grayline.is Syðra Langholt www.sydralangholt.is Trex hópferðamiðstöð www.trex.is Hótel Flúðir www.hotelfludir.is Ferðaskrifstofan Esja www.esjatravel.is Ásahreppur www.asahreppur.is HL Adventure www.hl.is Kálfholt www.kalfholt.is Fjallamenn / Mountaineers of Iceland www.mountaineers.is Rangárþing ytra www.ry.is Katla Geopark www.katlageopark.is Hekluhestar www.hekluhestar.is Ferðafélag Íslands www.fi.is Heklusetur www.leirubakki.is Norðurflug www.heli.is Herríðarhóll www.herridarholl.is Ernir www.ernir.is Hestheimar www.hestheimar.is Víkingaslóðir ehf. www.vikingaslodir.is Hótel Leirubakki www.leirubakki.is Pink Iceland www.pinkiceland.is Hótel Rangá www.hotelranga.is Harpa Yachts (Snekkjan ehf) www.harpayachts.is Sagnagarður www.sagnagardur.land.is Hótel Highland www.hotelhighland.is Hrauneyjar Guesthouse www.hrauneyjar.is