Southeast asia august 2017

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Singapore S$7.90 / Hong Kong HK$43 Thailand THB175 / Indonesia IDR50,000 Malaysia MYR18 / Vietnam VND85,000 Macau MOP44 / Philippines PHP240 Burma MMK35 / Cambodia KHR22,000 Brunei BND7.90 / Laos LAK52,000 contributors | august 2017

1 2 Holly Rachna Robertson Sachasinh Writer Writer The Kampot Express The Place: Page 40 Page 108 — — “The train from Phnom “Jaipur is all about beauty,” Penh to Kampot is a journey the Chiang Mai–based writer 1 to another era,” Robertson says. “Even freight trucks says, “starting with the old- are in gorgeous colors and world charm of the restored patterns. Creative energy 1960s carriages and carried is youthful and global.” on by the grand yet decaying Prime example: Beat’s buildings in Kampot town Dig Vijay ‘Diggy’ Rathore center.” Amid the relaxed, (pictured left). “Hands down easygoing vibe, “I love its the best local guide, he mix of colonial brought me to generations- and top-notch restaurants, old craftsmen and young ringed by mountains, pepper upstarts. His knowledge is farms and rice fields.” Visit encyclopedic and he’s funny.” Twenty Three for “a decadent Hit Hibiscus Court for dishes cheese soufflé well worth the with grains and veggies from indulgence.” Likewise the their garden. “Baajra (millet) guilt-free shopping at Dorsu: rotis slathered in ghee and “any of their ethically made jaggery is a wholesome meal basics make a great addition and a decadent dessert, all 2 to your wardrobe.” in one!” she says. “I ate like a Twitter: @robertson.holly. pig.” Instagram: @b438.

3 4 Lauryn Brian Ishak Spencer Photographer Writer Wild, Wild Life Wild, Wild Life Page 82 Page 82 — — Compared to Bali, Lombok “is “Naturalist Alfred Russel less crowded and feels very Wallace survived four years lush and rustic. It’s wild but in the Amazon, a shipwreck at the same time accessible,” in the middle of the ocean, says the Singapore-based and eight years in the Malay photographer. Her favorite archipelago,” Spencer says, adventure of the trip was a “and he collected 200,000 3 hike into the headlands at specimens.” Follow his trail Jeeva Beloam, on the island’s with caution: “While hiking, southeastern tip, in search we heard this thunderous of a Japanese cannon from crash. My heart skipped a World War II. “We evaded few beats; there were some wild boars, saw a monkey the expletives; we both took a size of a medium dog, nearly few steps back and then two walked into a snake and did massive boars came stomping walk into a thorny bush. out, and all I could think of The views were absolutely was a friend telling me that stunning”—if not exactly boars would charge. We stood what they were looking for. motionless for a few minutes, Turned out the cannon was then pressed on—this time up the other side of the coast. with a large rock in hand.”

Instagram: @laurynishak. Instagram: @brianbspencer. from top: courtesy of holly robertson; courtesy of rachna sachasinh ; courtesy of lauryn ishak; courtesy of brian spencer

14 4 “Jaipur is slow life!” my taxi extraordinarily exquisite filigree, driver declares. All around us, cars, inlay and gilt are the cornerstones of pedicabs, bicycles and cattle are the city’s iconic structures: the old stuck in hardcore commuter city wall, the City Palace, Jal Mahal gridlock. Horns screech, elephants (or Water Palace, on Man Sagar trumpet, and pedestrians tumble in Lake), and the pink Hawa Mahal, and out of the disorderly scrum. (Wind Palace), for example. Young boys jog in between the cars Jai Singh launched one of and oxcarts hawking fresh coconuts, modern India’s first intentional marigold garlands, and saris. A artisan communities. Deep inside horse cart waits patiently next to us, the dusty warrens of the walled old the turbaned driver casting a betel- city, artisans—or karighars—turn out jaipur stained grin. My driver responds by extraordinary objects much like they place pressing on the horn for an have for the past three centuries. unnecessarily long time. Slow life? Craftsmen chisel marble, cut gems Sure, in the literal sense. But it and hand-embroider garments with definitely doesn’t seem relaxing. solid-gold thread with casual After a few days in the expertise. The level of detail is Rajasthani capital, however, my taxi staggering. More than once on my driver’s declaration begins to make visit, I was given a magnifying glass sense. In spite of the log-jammed to properly appreciate gold inlaid Neighborhoods roads and dizzy markets, folks here with precious gems, highly technical Zip around the Pink City’s take their time. Like the horse-cart weaving techniques, and pichwai or eclectic enclaves—a driver who smiles in traffic, gota embroidery, which resembles a seamless blend of ancient Amer Fort, outside shopkeepers linger over tea and painted tapestry. and avant-garde, bustling Jaipur, dates to conversation, and skilled artisans Modern designers—native and and sleepy—via auto- 967, the reign of work slowly and deliberately to foreign-born—still flock to Jaipur. Raja Man Singh. rickshaw or Uber. create swoon-worthy architecture, Tapping indigenous artisans’ know- textiles, art and jewelry that stand how, the new kids are repurposing Old City the tests of time. This is no accident. folksy styles into edgy, appealing The Pink City got its rosy paint Back in 1726, Maharaja Jai Singh, fashion, furniture and practically job in 1876, and the original walled core still blushes with the city’s namesake, summoned anything else. The contemporary glorious palaces, forts and skilled craftsmen—bricklayers, craft movement, in turn, gives a . The old markets are full stone masons, marble cutters, lifeline to the karighars in their of treasure; it’s worth elbowing metal smiths, potters, weavers— continual defense against machine- you way through the mayhem to from the farthest reaches of the made wares. We can all thank the get your piece of Jaipur’s magic. Subcontinent to build a new capital Maharaja for inuring his subjects Civil Lines from the ground up. City planners with an abiding appreciation for The posh district’s graceful tree- followed architectural blueprints hand-hewn beauty and intricacy—an lined streets and colonial and detailed in Vastu , a part of ethos of living and enjoying creative Midcentury bungalows appeal to the , or Hinduism’s religious pursuits that continues to dignitaries and design-types. texts. Think of it as Vedic feng shui. underscore the city’s character. C-c S heme Balanced aesthetics and details of Here, the slow life is the good life. Teeming with youthful energy, this burb mixes cool cafés and crafty threads with the ubiquitous sidewalk chai wallah, or tea seller.

MId Roa Endless rows of multi-generation jewelry shops, snack stalls and sari boutiques make this iconic street a one-stop shopping (and eating) hub.

V aishali Nagar The up-and-coming district's low rents and broad avenues lure fresh start-ups looking for space to flex their creative muscles. Bring an empty suitcase to Kan ota Bagh famed Pink Not a neighborhood per se, the City, because you’re goingRajasthan’s to want to pretty shopping complex’s buy everything in this creative hub. bougainvillea-covered L eft: Hawa courtyards are home to trendy Mahal. right: ateliers peddling contemporary chnaBy Ra Block printing at and vintage crafts. Photog Sachasinh Bagru village. raph panphai autchara by map ed by An kush Maria

108 august 2017 / travelandleisureasia.com travelandleisureasia.com / august 2017 109 the / place / j a i p u r

post-modern. + Ecru's dresses from Rs6,950, details, and a few are Life in (ecruonline.com; bedding from Rs3,950) updated with playful Miniature US$10–$680) Nur connects the hip and stripes and minimalist India’s Mughal rulers Kaoukji partners with the historic with their motifs. + O’d Gulabee introduced miniature art Studio Kassa: old city brass-, silk and cotton (Kanota Bagh; 91-141/ laser-cut clutch marble- and glass- garments, dainty 256-8834; Rs150– (intricate painting on and Cloud lamps. paper) in the 16th century, masters for ethereal ballet slippers and 9,000) peddles vintage and over time Jaipur added home accoutrements. luxury bedding, all wares dripping with Polo Factory: its own iconography and Gem cutters etch palm block-printed in royal pedigree. Despite Cavalry shirt. motifs to the tradition. fronds onto glass abstract and the patina of age, the Modern studios revamp the carafes and stemware geometric motifs. objets d’art here are craft with new mediums with mind-boggling + Cool peeps head to impeccably hip. + For and fresh themes. precision. And, classic Hot Pink (hotpinkindia. Polo Factory (polo block print textiles and com; Rs800–78,000) factoryonline.com; M odern Ateliers kaftans are updated for khadi, or Cavalry shirt Rs2,650 Hip and heritage, bohemian and luxe with modern motifs handwoven cottons, in store), leather Newly opened Jaimini (fb.com/ come together in the city’s avant-garde and rich colors. and linens in updated craftsmen fashion the jaimini.india; prices from Rs7,500) ateliers and design studios. (anantaya silhouettes and beaded country’s first and only commissions local miniaturist + Anantaya painters to focus on fresh decor.com; Rs250– velvet Rajasthani jootis line of bespoke polo

subjects. Traditional court and + Studio Kassa’s L eather bags and sa 40,000) draws on (loafers). Co-owned by equipment. The a battle scenes, flora and fauna are (studiokassa.com; brogues get a techy R kalighar know-how in jeweler Siddharth Cavalry Shirt and Rasa: block- replaced with vintage cars, prices Rs500–19,000) makeover with laser practically every Kasliwal of The Gem mulmul (muslin) print silk dress. modern monuments and holy men from different faiths. Arpan Patel and . And medium. Eschewing Palace, the shop is one scarves, both block- Aarushi Kumar spin traditional silversmiths woven cotton, of the few spots in printed with images of old-school handiwork have recast industrial designers Geetanjali town to get a Kasliwal the indigenous into “art with utility”. metal shavings into and Ayush Kasliwal original. + Pashmina’s Manipur polo ponies, The Chappa Chippa futuristic jewelry that cast block prints onto authentic roots are keeps Rajput Painter Rohini Singh Andraab: (rohinisingh.co.in; studio visits by eccentric art and lighting is hand-carved looks like it’s molded ultrasoft knits, putting revealed at Andraab nobles playing appointment; prices Rs15,000– handwoven textile. wood and brass discs from Saturn’s rings. a timeless spin on the (andraab.com; smart and looking 60,000) uses block prints on taking cues from wood + At Kannbar modern T. Indigenous handwoven pieces dapper. canvas and traditional wasli block-print stamps. In (kannbar.com; clutches rohinda wood is US$100–$1,500, (layered, handmade paper), issuing a contemporary take on the Cloud lighting line, from US$120) simple whittled into stacks of embroidered shawls Jaipur’s old-world visuals. tear- and waterproof dhurries get jazzed up smooth nesting bowls US$2,500–$10,000). Recent works are inspired by the natural paper are with metallic threads inspired by Jain alms The sumptuous stoles Anantaya: tchotchkes and frescoed interiors of palaces in tucked and pinned with and edgy motifs that bowls. + Rasa and shawls bear northeastern Rajasthan’s knitting baskets. -like precision. are at once tribal and courtesyirt: of polo factory. dress: courtesy of (rasajaipur.com; silk classic embroidery h

Shekhawati district. lamps: sakia patel S

Sujan Rajmahal Palace M ixes heritage and hip as Mosaics Guesthouse precociously as it did when Maharaja Jai N estled in Amber, a tiny Jaipur’s Singh built the palace for his favorite Queen Savista Retreat S mart hamlet 15 minutes from best- 250 years ago. Forty-nine wallpapers and a town, featuring four kept secret, in the rolling mesmerizing catalogue worthy of a modern minimalist rooms and farmlands just out of town. art gallery grace the interiors. Individually bougainvillea-filled Visionary owner Bhanwar designed royal suites and apartments have garden nooks that Rishyasringa resuscitated seduced dignitaries and Bollywood types for Rooms breathe Mughal-era his family’s country estate ages. The cheeky 51 Shades of Pink dishes grandeur. Fortunate and hunting grounds into a superb breakfast and brunch. The Polo Bar, The latest boutique guests may get a chance green retreat with a working with well-curated gin and aperitif menus, is Fort Bishangarh N ewly rooms tap into the city’s to see owner and mosaic farm, solar panels and an a tap room for the city’s polo-playing gentry, opened deep regal roots, albeit artist Hervé Vital in ingenious water-recycling a spot to see and be seen. sujanluxury.com; heritage hotel standing sentry with a refreshingly smart 28 Kothi A n airy, harmonious and drop-dead gorgeous action, piecing together system. The 14-room white- doubles from US$730. on a ridge over the Rajasthani and modern footprint. Midcentury bungalow in the swanky Civil Lines masterpieces in his washed haveli (noble house) countryside. The 230-year- enclave, built originally as a homestay for clients of the late pebble-, brick- and has graceful cupolas, arched old fort-turned-luxury The result? Basics done Munnu Kasliwal, Jaipur’s jeweler to the jet-set. Kasliwal’s stone-filled workshop. A doorways and plant-filled settlement is full of old-world right and luxury that provocateur son Siddharth enlisted Lebanese interior designer rooftop veranda offers pavilions. In the erudite art- and modern fittings from near knows no end. Nur Kaoukji to update the pad into a slice of heaven, where the breathtaking views of and literature-filled library, and far, with strong Middle city’s artisan roots take a fresh vibe. Endless cups of ayurvedic nearby Amber Fort. tea service offers respite Eastern and Mediterranean tea and homemade vegetarian dinners in the starlit garden make mosaicsguesthouse.com; from the heat. savista.com; overtures. alilahotels.com;

you never want to leave. 28kothi.com; doubles from US$140. doubles from Rp3,800. from right: courtesy of savlsta bishangarh retreat; fort of courtesy palace; rajmahal sujun of courtesy doubles from US$149. doubles from Rs26,000.

110 august 2017 / travelandleisureasia.com the / place / j a i p u r Lessons with a block-printing master. What to Eat INR SIDE S' tips Rajasthan is the birthplace of kachori, a power T he power couple behind the city’s modern craft meal of fried pastry stuffed with onions, revival likes their together-time old-school. “We start potatoes or spicy lentils that fueled warriors Caffé Palladio: off with dosas (potato-stuffed crepes) and chai at Old and tradesmen on long marches. Today, lighter sublime saffron India Coffee House (indiancoffeehouse.com; dinner setting. fare balances the penchant for sweet and spice. for two Rs300); nibble on fresh gajak (sesame flour ghee and raw jaggery baked into crisp sheets) at Ishwar Ji Gajak Wale (279 Chaura Rasta; Rs300 per GREAT GUIdes eating hall with caffepanchranga; Italian frescos and kilogram); chew on paan (digestive herbs and spices dat e nigh t artfully designed lunch for two Rs4,000. outdoor fire pits. bar- wrapped in betel leaf) at Special Paan Ki Dukkan Geetanjali & India Beat An agency that spaces. meraaki palladio.com; lunch for (Chaura Rasta opposite Ishwarji; one paan Rs30) and Ayush Kasliwal fashions bespoke itineraries Caffé Palladio Your kitchen.com; dinner for two Rs1,500. drive up to Suriya Mandir to view the city lights. This Founders of Anantaya based on interest and budget. two Rs1,500. sublime repast in was our first date, and it never gets old.” & AKFD Studio The charming, knowledgeable guides rattle off local lore and these gardens or The Kitchen at saffron-hued pavilion crack jokes. Tap them for hard- Caffé Panchranga Jaipur Modern to-find and appointment-only At this Italian-inspired may include lime- and Its updated menu stars access to the likes of famous spot with lovely garden mint-infused couscous farm-to-table quinoa textile designer Brigitte Singh, Tapri: seating, expect wood- or pomegranate and private lessons with block- hipster-approved options. Savory quinoa From the glitterati to the imminently wed, the city is fired pizzas, home- tabbouleh. A deli is printing masters in Bagru tea service. maki rolls and jaggery- a gem bank. Kasliwal pays homage to his famous village. indiabeat.co.uk. Tapri The standard made pastas, fusion stocked with fresh sweetened coconut jeweler father, Munnu, and his clan's prior eight Indian teahouse is sliders and great bread, sweets and cool laddoos (a local generations of goldsmiths, with coveted handmade moving on up—to this wines. Veggies come ceramics. The Caffé confection) beg for pieces at his atelier (munnuthegempalace.com; roof lounge serving follows on heels of last Things To Do This online from Sujan Rajmahal seconds. jaipurmodern. 91-982/901-0858 for private appointment) and these portal curates cool happenings, brews in handsome hotel’s organic year’s nightlife-revving com; lunch for two tips for shopping in Jaipur: “Don’t buy rubies and activities and bespoke copper kettles to a gardens. fb.com/ Bar Palladio, with its Rs1,500–1,800. experiences, including cycling shopping for spa r k le s sapphires without certificates. Don’t let a taxi driver broad audience. tours, jeep safaris, arts and siddharth Kasliwal or a guide persuade you to go to a particular shop. Rajasthani teahouse craft lessons, golfing, festival Co-owner of And don’t get seduced by healers and astrologers fare is on the menu, hopping, cooking classes and The Gem Palace suggesting you buy random stones for your safety.” private excursions to hidden with portions large Caffé spots. Peruse and book their enough for two. tapri. Panchranga: selections directly. net; lunch or dinner for burgers on thingstodoinjaipur.com. parade. two with chai Rs800. Before the Jaipur Literary Festival consecrated the Meraaki Kitchen city as a belletristic hub, Kapur says, Jaipur was sanghmitra voyages The Welcome Ambassador, a hand- Fusion vegetarian bites already peddling stories and ideas with a vibrant kavi in an industrial chic painted vintage Hindustan sammelan, oral tradition of storytelling—think poetry Ambassador that cruises the slam meets stand-up comic. “For those of us who sun-streaked countryside, is grew up in the 1970s, the dark and crammed Book the city’s best-looking ride. Be Corner (81 Mizra Ismail Rd., opposite Niros Restaurant) chauffered in it to the Aravali Hills for a morning trek was a royal mess but a godsend. These days, Rajat followed by serviced breakfast, b ook club Book Corner (rajatbookcorner.com) and Bookwise private yoga in a historic (110 Mizra Ismail Rd.; 91-141/236-4755) make for a Mita Kapur courtyard, or sundowners at Founder of Siyahi better browsing experience.” Nahargarh Fort. sanghmitra.in; DIY Practice block printing and create your own sliwal; courtesy of mita kapur; courtesy of nur kaoukji. + a Literary Agency full-day sightseeing Rs4,500. Crafting, eating masterpiece in Bagru, a village dedicated to the craft. K and riding: three India Beat’s Block Print Workshop (indiabeat.co.uk; different ways US$100 per person) offers half-day excursions with a to dive headfirst master craftsman learning woodblock-printing and When not fashioning her glamorous line of kaftans into Jaipur. dabu, or mud-printing. + Chillies Walk The Town and homeware, Kaoukji hits the city’s colorful

([email protected]; Rs8,500 per person) dishes a nchranga. riding: courtesy of polo factory markets in the old city. “I am constantly going to the a deep-fried tryst with Rajasthani street food, taking intrepid P bazaar in search of inspiration and raw materials. At ffé

eaters through the old city haunts, sampling kachoris stuffed with a Badi Chaupad (intersection of Tripolia Bazar and C

lentil and spice, refreshing neera, water from the bark of the date ria; courtesy of siddharth Ramganj Bazar Rd, Old City) and Johari Bazar a tree, and prasad, or holy food, presumably blessed by Lord M (along Johari Bazar Rd, Old City), you can see . + Jaipur’s polo heritage is legendary, and Rajput artisans working on Zardori and Gota embroidery. kush n

noblemen still pony up competitively for the winter season. Polo A m a r k e t hopping The Museum of Indology (24 Gangal Park, near Factory’s (polofactoryonline.com; clinics from Rs8,000 per day, or Nur Kaoukji Albert Hall Museum; entry Rs100) was started by US$500 for a week including lodging) day- and week-long clinics Founder & Creative the world’s biggest hoarder, I think. A bit distressing, Jeep safaris. from top: will get you riding and playing chukkas like a pro. burgers: courtesy of sidebar from top: courtesy of india courtesy beat; of things to do Director at Ecru but an incredible library of objects.”

Learn to ride at 00 j uly 2017 / travelandleisureasia.com Polo Factory. travelandleisureasia.com / August 2017 113