SOUTHEAST ASIA AUGUST 2017 THE WORLD’S BEST AWARDS YOUR FAVORITE CITIES, ISLANDS, RESORTS, HOTELS, AIRLINES AND MORE SINGAPORE S$7.90 / HONG KONG HK$43 THAILAND THB175 / INDONESIA IDR50,000 MALAYSIA MYR18 / VIETNAM VND85,000 MACAU MOP44 / PhILIPPINES PHP240 BURMA MMK35 / CAmbODIA KHR22,000 BRUNEI BND7.90 / LAOS LAK52,000 contributors | AUGUST 2017 1 2 Holly Rachna Robertson Sachasinh WRITER WRITER The Kampot Express The Place: Jaipur Page 40 Page 108 — — “The train from Phnom “Jaipur is all about beauty,” Penh to Kampot is a journey the Chiang Mai–based writer 1 to another era,” Robertson says. “Even freight trucks says, “starting with the old- are in gorgeous colors and world charm of the restored patterns. Creative energy 1960s carriages and carried is youthful and global.” on by the grand yet decaying Prime example: India Beat’s buildings in Kampot town Dig Vijay ‘Diggy’ Rathore center.” Amid the relaxed, (pictured left). “Hands down easygoing vibe, “I love its the best local guide, he mix of colonial architecture brought me to generations- and top-notch restaurants, old craftsmen and young ringed by mountains, pepper upstarts. His knowledge is farms and rice fields.” Visit encyclopedic and he’s funny.” Twenty Three for “a decadent Hit Hibiscus Court for dishes cheese soufflé well worth the with grains and veggies from indulgence.” Likewise the their garden. “Baajra (millet) guilt-free shopping at Dorsu: rotis slathered in ghee and “any of their ethically made jaggery is a wholesome meal basics make a great addition and a decadent dessert, all 2 to your wardrobe.” in one!” she says. “I ate like a Twitter: @robertson.holly. pig.” Instagram: @b438. 3 4 Lauryn Brian Ishak Spencer PHOTOGRAPHER WRITER Wild, Wild Life Wild, Wild Life Page 82 Page 82 — — Compared to Bali, Lombok “is “Naturalist Alfred Russel less crowded and feels very Wallace survived four years lush and rustic. It’s wild but in the Amazon, a shipwreck at the same time accessible,” in the middle of the ocean, says the Singapore-based and eight years in the Malay photographer. Her favorite archipelago,” Spencer says, adventure of the trip was a “and he collected 200,000 3 hike into the headlands at specimens.” Follow his trail Jeeva Beloam, on the island’s with caution: “While hiking, southeastern tip, in search we heard this thunderous of a Japanese cannon from crash. My heart skipped a World War II. “We evaded few beats; there were some wild boars, saw a monkey the expletives; we both took a size of a medium dog, nearly few steps back and then two walked into a snake and did massive boars came stomping walk into a thorny bush. out, and all I could think of The views were absolutely was a friend telling me that stunning”—if not exactly boars would charge. We stood what they were looking for. motionless for a few minutes, Turned out the cannon was then pressed on—this time up the other side of the coast. with a large rock in hand.” Instagram: @laurynishak. Instagram: @brianbspencer. FROM TOP: COURTESY OF HOLLY ROBERTSON; COURTESY OF RACHNA SACHASINH ; COURTESY OF LAURYN ISHAK; COURTESY OF BRIAN SPENCER 14 4 “JAIPUR IS SLOW LIFE!” my taxi extraordinarily exquisite filigree, driver declares. All around us, cars, inlay and gilt are the cornerstones of pedicabs, bicycles and cattle are the city’s iconic structures: the old stuck in hardcore commuter city wall, the City Palace, Jal Mahal gridlock. Horns screech, elephants (or Water Palace, on Man Sagar trumpet, and pedestrians tumble in Lake), and the pink Hawa Mahal, and out of the disorderly scrum. (Wind Palace), for example. Young boys jog in between the cars Jai Singh launched one of and oxcarts hawking fresh coconuts, modern India’s first intentional marigold garlands, and saris. A artisan communities. Deep inside horse cart waits patiently next to us, the dusty warrens of the walled old the turbaned driver casting a betel- city, artisans—or karighars—turn out JAIPUR stained grin. My driver responds by extraordinary objects much like they place pressing on the horn for an have for the past three centuries. unnecessarily long time. Slow life? Craftsmen chisel marble, cut gems Sure, in the literal sense. But it and hand-embroider garments with definitely doesn’t seem relaxing. solid-gold thread with casual After a few days in the expertise. The level of detail is Rajasthani capital, however, my taxi staggering. More than once on my driver’s declaration begins to make visit, I was given a magnifying glass sense. In spite of the log-jammed to properly appreciate gold inlaid NEIGHBORHOODS roads and dizzy markets, folks here with precious gems, highly technical Zip around the Pink City’s take their time. Like the horse-cart weaving techniques, and pichwai or eclectic enclaves—a driver who smiles in traffic, gota embroidery, which resembles a seamless blend of ancient Amer Fort, outside shopkeepers linger over tea and painted tapestry. and avant-garde, bustling Jaipur, dates to conversation, and skilled artisans Modern designers—native and and sleepy—via auto- 967, the reign of work slowly and deliberately to foreign-born—still flock to Jaipur. Raja Man Singh. rickshaw or Uber. create swoon-worthy architecture, Tapping indigenous artisans’ know- textiles, art and jewelry that stand how, the new kids are repurposing OLD CITY the tests of time. This is no accident. folksy styles into edgy, appealing The Pink City got its rosy paint Back in 1726, Maharaja Jai Singh, fashion, furniture and practically job in 1876, and the original walled core still blushes with the city’s namesake, summoned anything else. The contemporary glorious palaces, forts and skilled craftsmen—bricklayers, craft movement, in turn, gives a temples. The old markets are full stone masons, marble cutters, lifeline to the karighars in their of treasure; it’s worth elbowing metal smiths, potters, weavers— continual defense against machine- you way through the mayhem to from the farthest reaches of the made wares. We can all thank the get your piece of Jaipur’s magic. Subcontinent to build a new capital Maharaja for inuring his subjects CIVIL LINES from the ground up. City planners with an abiding appreciation for The posh district’s graceful tree- followed architectural blueprints hand-hewn beauty and intricacy—an lined streets and colonial and detailed in Vastu Shastra, a part of ethos of living and enjoying creative Midcentury bungalows appeal to the Vedas, or Hinduism’s religious pursuits that continues to dignitaries and design-types. texts. Think of it as Vedic feng shui. underscore the city’s character. C-CMES HE Balanced aesthetics and details of Here, the slow life is the good life. Teeming with youthful energy, this burb mixes cool cafés and crafty threads with the ubiquitous sidewalk chai wallah, or tea seller. MID ROA Endless rows of multi-generation jewelry shops, snack stalls and sari boutiques make this iconic street a one-stop shopping (and eating) hub. V AISHALI NAGAR The up-and-coming district's low rents and broad avenues lure fresh start-ups looking for space to flex their creative muscles. BRING AN EMPTY SUITCASE to KAN OTA BAGH famed Pink Not a neighborhood per se, the City, because you’re goingRajasthan’s to want to pretty shopping complex’s buy everything in this creative hub. bougainvillea-covered LFT:E Hawa courtyards are home to trendy Mahal. RIGHT: ateliers peddling contemporary BY CHNA RA Block printing at and vintage crafts. PHOTOG SACHASINH Bagru village. RAPH PANPHAI AUTCHARA BY MAP ED BY AN KUSH MARIA 108 AUGUST 2017 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / AUGUST 2017 109 the / place / JAIPUR post-modern. + Ecru's dresses from Rs6,950, details, and a few are LIFE IN (ecruonline.com; bedding from Rs3,950) updated with playful MINIATURE US$10–$680) Nur connects the hip and stripes and minimalist India’s Mughal rulers Kaoukji partners with the historic with their motifs. + O’d Gulabee introduced miniature art Studio Kassa: old city brass-, silk and cotton (Kanota Bagh; 91-141/ laser-cut clutch marble- and glass- garments, dainty 256-8834; Rs150– (intricate painting on and Cloud lamps. paper) in the 16th century, masters for ethereal ballet slippers and 9,000) peddles vintage and over time Jaipur added home accoutrements. luxury bedding, all wares dripping with Polo Factory: its own iconography and Gem cutters etch palm block-printed in royal pedigree. Despite Cavalry shirt. motifs to the tradition. fronds onto glass abstract and the patina of age, the Modern studios revamp the carafes and stemware geometric motifs. objets d’art here are craft with new mediums with mind-boggling + Cool peeps head to impeccably hip. + For and fresh themes. precision. And, classic Hot Pink (hotpinkindia. Polo Factory (polo block print textiles and com; Rs800–78,000) factoryonline.com; M ODERN ATELIERS kaftans are updated for khadi, or Cavalry shirt Rs2,650 Hip and heritage, bohemian and luxe with modern motifs handwoven cottons, in store), leather Newly opened JAIMINI (fb.com/ come together in the city’s avant-garde and rich colors. and linens in updated craftsmen fashion the jaimini.india; prices from Rs7,500) ateliers and design studios. (anantaya silhouettes and beaded country’s first and only commissions local miniaturist + Anantaya painters to focus on fresh decor.com; Rs250– velvet Rajasthani jootis line of bespoke polo subjects. Traditional court and + Studio Kassa’s L eather bags and SA 40,000) draws on (loafers). Co-owned by equipment. The A battle scenes, flora and fauna are (studiokassa.com; brogues get a techy R kalighar know-how in jeweler Siddharth Cavalry Shirt and Rasa: block- replaced with vintage cars, prices Rs500–19,000) makeover with laser practically every Kasliwal of The Gem mulmul (muslin) print silk dress.