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Care Sheet for Red-Tailed Boas

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Care Sheet for Red-Tailed Boas CARE SHEET FOR RED-TAILED BOAS Steve Byrd is generally associated with curiosity, where a long, slow 11010 ClearUJater Drive, Hanipto11, I flick with very little up/down movement is usually a GA 3022B, U.S.A. sign of possible "defensive" feelings.A truly defensive Boa will make it's intentions very well known. Normal actions are pulling into a strike position and hissing.A • INTRODUCTION specimen will most likely calm down with interaction, The following (assuming you have intelligently made but a calm specimen is a much more enjoyable pet. the decision to purchase a Boa constrictor) are basic gui­ Check for mucous in mouth (representative of infec­ delines for proper care and maintenance of your new tion}, eye shape and colour, and lumps in body (due pet. Red-tailed boas (or Boa constrictor constrictor, B. c. to broken ribs or malnutrition). Hunger folds are anot­ imperator, and a few others) range from Colombia, her sign of malnutrition.Although it is generally not a Mexico, Central America, and others. It should be noted problem with Red-Tails, check to see if the specimen that "Red-Tailed Boa" is a trade name interchanged is a known feeder.Ask to be allowed to watch the next with just about all the ssp.The true Colombian red­ time it is fed, maybe even offering to purchase the food. tailed boas tend to be rare, and it is speculated by some However, I would wait at least 1-2 days before moving that the name Red-Tailed Boa was coined for its appe­ a just fed Boa.Also look for mites. Mites are no reas­ al over the constrictor name and the negative image it on to reject a snake, but are definitely something to may imply. look out for. • SELECTION • SIZE If possible, captive bred animals should always by selec­ I have seen neonates ranging from 12 to 24 inches. ted.They tend to be much healthier and make better Growth in newborns is very rapid, between 3 - 5 feet pets overall.This also helps to help encourage breeding in one year.The second year can yield lengths of 4 to rather than collection.Always deal with reputable dealers 7 feet.Adults range anywhere from 5 to I Ofeet, with and high quality pet stores. If the snake must be an an occasional 12 and 15 footer thrown in just to keep import, be very careful when it comes to selection. us all on our toes. A docile specimen should move forward and flick it's Growth is directly related to diet and housing condi­ tongue in a regular fashion.A fast moving short flick tions. However, unlike fish, a reptile WILL outgrow it's Lillel'a/111'a Serpe11/i11111 • 1996 • 11of11111e 16 • 1111111/Jel' 2 surroundings. Keeping a Boa in a 20 gallon tank WILL • HOUSING NOT keep it from growing. Diet can be used to con­ trol growth, but I do not recommend it. If you can't Space take the size.get a smaller animal! Feed that puppy and A small tank for starters is OK. I recommend a 20 gal­ let it grow! lon tank minimum.This will be outgrown very quickly (will last about a year)! A cage amounting to 3/4 square • FEEDING foot per foot of snake is what I consider perfect Shelves Newborns should be fed every 5 days. Start on pinkies, can and should be used to increase floor space and allow and work up from there.As the snake increases in size, somewhere to "go" when active.A shelf also allows a feeding can be cut back to every seven to ten days. warmer basking site, while forming a cooler area under­ Feeding can be done every 2 weeks, or even less in neath. emergency situations, but this is not recommended. Your pet will be much healthier if fed a reasonable meal Temperature weekly than if gorged every two weeks. Prey items Temperature for a Boa should be kept around 29°C should be approximately the same diameter as the during daytime and 25°C at night.A basking site in the snake (both at the widest part of the body). range of 30-35°C is also needed. If temperatures are All prey should be killed or at least stunned.This can allowed to stay too cool, refusal of food, regurgitation be accomplished by several methods. If feeding live, I of prey (very disgusting, if you have never seen/smelled simply swing the rat by the tail and allow its head to this, consider yourself lucky), digestive problems and "bump" into a step in my garage. Frozen prey is attrac­ respiratory infections will be right behind! Heat should tive due to the fact that it is on hand when needed, be from heating pads, pig blankets, light bulbs, and NEVER already dead, and usually cheaper than live.Always kill EVER EVER from hot rocks. I have even had success or stun prey, the worst I have ever felt was when I got using small ceramic space heaters. The heater should in a hurry and fed a live rat He managed to get his teeth have small enough openings that tails can't enter.an adju­ on (but thank goodness not in) Sinbad's back No dama­ stable and covered thermostat, and should shut off if ge, just a very worried snakekeeper. tipped over.These radiate plenty of heat, but do not Regular use of a vitamin supplement is a must.Your develop the dangerous surface temperatures regular breeder/supplier/vet should be able to recommend space heaters tend to have. Remember to monitor tem­ something suitable. For those of you with larger col­ perature very closely. It must also be remembered that lections, bulk supplements from a farm supply store the temperature at the bottom can be IO to 15 deg­ work well. It may cost more than a small bottle at the rees lower than that at the top. Be sure the basking area pet store, but tends to last much longer. Check with is placed so that a gradient is achieved, with the cool­ a vet as to dosage. Some specimens may regurgitate down area being no lower than 80-85 degrees.The cage if handled within a day or two after feeding. I usually should contain a hiding place, a sturdy water bowl big avoid handling until the "lump" goes away. enough for soaking, and something to rub on while shed­ ding (Rocks and tree limbs/sticks work well). Litterat11ra Serpe11ti11111 • 1996 • volume 16 • 1111111ber 2 Substrate slough less often, maybe every 2 to 3 months. Keep it simple, and do not use Cedar or sand. Remember, sloughing is a result of growth, and if your Newspaper is the easiest. However, an active pet will snake does not slough frequently, he is not eating quickly look as though he has been rolling in charcoal! enough. My Boa goes through preslough in about 4 I use unprinted paper obtained from local newspapers. days.This is marked by the clouding over of the eyes. Many will give this away, but most sell it for a few dol­ In the end, they will be completely clouded over.At this lars. Just ask for an end roll. point, feeding is best postponed till after sloughing is I have also used indoor/outdoor type carpeting.This is complete.The eyes will clear, and a few days later the attractive, and relatively inexpensive. Keep a few pie­ skin will be removed.The slough is accomplished by ces handy, so that one can be replaced and the other rubbing on something until the skin on the nose comes cleaned later. However, carpeting will cut down on the loose.The skin is then hung on something and pulled amount of heat obtained from under the tank heating off. Check the "head" of the skin and make sure both systems.Animal bedding is also attractive and easy to eyecaps came off. The tail is another area that some­ clean, just be sure it does not contain cedar.Aspen is times will not remove completely. If the skin comes off best. Simply remove soiled areas daily, and replace all in lots of small pieces, the humidity is too low. I begin when cleaning tank. misting mine once a day while in preshed, and 2 to 3 times a day after the eyes clear. He may look at you like you are crazy, but shedding will be much easier. Unshed Cleaning skin can be removed by soaking in water and then gent­ Develop and follow a cleaning schedule. Soiled sub­ ly pulling it off. Remaining eyecaps are much more dif­ strate should be removed immediately. Fresh water ficult to remove. Fortunately, I have never encounte­ should be given every few days. Sterilize the water con­ red this. I have been told that a long soak, with plenty tainer at each water change.The entire enclosure should of underwater time (submerging head at least once be cleaned/sterilized at least bi-weekly. Use a dilute every 5 minutes), will loosen them enough to allow solution of bleach (3-5%) with (optional) 2 teaspoons removal. Removal can be accomplished by rubbing the dishwashing liquid per gallon. Never use Lysol or Pine­ eye gently with ball of your thumb. If this does not sol.These contain chemicals that (by design) leave resi­ work, soak again.After soaking and drying, touch a piece dues that can kill a pet.Always rinse and dry well befo­ of scotch tape to the eyecap and gently pull it away.
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