C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS MARCH 2014 NO.O. 222 The CCaribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore SAILING INTO

RNCAVNUE.LGPTCMALBERTO MARINO KRONIC-ADVENTURES.BLOGSPOT.COM JORDI FONT BAYO @ PANORAMIO — Story on page 22 MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 DEPARTMENTS Info & Updates ...... 4 Book Review ...... 32 Business Briefs ...... 8 The Caribbean Sky ...... 34 Eco-News ...... 10 Cooking with Cruisers...... 36, 37 Regatta News...... 12 Readers’ Forum ...... 38 Meridian Passage ...... 29 Calendar of Events ...... 40 Sailors’ Horoscope ...... 30 What’s On My Mind ...... 40 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Island Poets ...... 30 Caribbean Market Place .....42 Cartoon ...... 30 Classified Ads ...... 46 www.caribbeancompass.com Salty’s Beat ...... 31 Advertisers’ Index ...... 46

MARCH 2014 • NUMBER 222 Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. DEREK PICKELL Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410 [email protected] Whale Songs www.caribbeancompass.com Why do they do it? ...... 28 Editor...... Sally Erdle

KIDO [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado [email protected] Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71 Mob: + 596 696 74 77 01 [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected] : Distribution - Shelter Bay Marina Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer www.shelterbaymarina.com [email protected] Puerto Rico: Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo Accounting...... Shellese Craigg Olga Diaz de Peréz, Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: (787) 863 5282 Grenada Week [email protected] [email protected] Compass Agents by Island: St. Lucia: Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Some spicy sailing! ...... 16 Antigua: Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720-8432 Tel (268) 720-6868, [email protected] [email protected] Barbados: Distribution - Doyle Sails St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Seeing St. Maarten Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Ad Sales & Distribution - Stéphane Legendre : Distribution - Marina Santa Marta Mob: + 590 690 765 422 Refreshing your view...... 18 [email protected] TOR PINNEY www.igy-marinasantamarta.com/en St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Curaçao: Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Ad Sales - Shellese Craigg [email protected] Tel: (784) 457-3409 Dominica: Ad Sales & Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution - Doc Leslie Tel: (784) 529-0970 Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Tortola/BVI: Distribution - Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830 Fax: (284) 494-1584 Grenada: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi : Ad Sales - Patty Tomasik Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 [email protected] [email protected]

Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts Finding Harmony Turtle Time no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. ©2014 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short … in Bocas del Toro ...... 26 A loggerhead rescued ...... 29 excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. ISSN 1605 - 1998 On the cover: Scenes of Santa Marta, Colombia as captured by Alberto Mariño, Jordi Font Bayó and George of Lahaina Roads. At lower right, Mayor Carlos Eduardo Caicedo, Deputy Minister of Tourism Sandra Howard Taylor and marina owner Manuel Dávila Abondano welcome race winners to the city

Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to , from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. ‘We discovered the Compass when we first went cruising in the late ’90s. By the time we both finished reading an issue, it was a patchwork of holes, as we’d clipped multiple articles, news bits, and ads for reference. Congratulations on giving us great info and entertainment.’ —Ann Vanderhoof and Steve Manley www.spicenecklace.com

Click Google Map link below to fi nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078&spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 near Soufriere,St.Lucia,andtietotheshorefrom18000600hours.Thisusedbe buoys andtheshore.Allmarinetrafficmuststaywestsouthofthesebuoys. yellow buoyswithlightswillbeinstalledmarkinganexclusionzonebetweenthe become aconcernforairlinetraffic. watch planeslandortakeoff.Theheightoftheirmastsandsuperstructureshas French St.Martin,Anguilla,ortheBVI.Fromtimetotime,vesselshavestayed Maho Bay,isfrequentlypassedcloselybylargeyachtsgoingtoorcomingfrom &Updates Info Chris Doylereports:YachtscanagainanchorofftheHummingbirdRestaurant, Anchoring atHummingbird,St.Lucia In ordertoincreasethedistancethatallmarinetrafficpassesinfrontofMahoBay, The areawestofthePrincessJulianaInternationalAirportinSt.Maarten,knownas Exclusion ZoneinMahoBay,St.Maarten [email protected] Tel: (246)4234600 St Philip, Six Crossroads, Doyle OffshoreSails,Ltd Barbados [email protected] Tel: (284)4942569 Road Town,Tortola Road ReefMarina Doyle SailmakersBVI,Ltd British VirginIslands 30 bidallegre voilerie dumarin Martinique New SpiceIslandMarina Turbulence Sails Grenada Roseau Dominica MarineCenter Dominica Kapiteinsweg #4 Curacao Jolly Harbour Star Marine Antigua &Barbuda advanced sailspossible. the finest,mostdurableandtechnologically 50,000 miles. Our OCEANPLUSsailsareguaranteedforfiveyearsor Chaguramas AMD Trinidad &Tobago Blue Lagoon Barefoot YachtCharters St. Vincent Rodney Bay Rodney BaySails St Lucia Fajardo, PuertoRico Atlantic Canvas&Sail Puerto Rico Panama City Regency Marine Panama

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facilities inChristiansted,St.Croix.AtfarrightisCapt.DrewW.Pearson Congresswoman DonnaChristensenattheinaugurationofnewUSCoastGuard —Continuedonnextpage two new29-footResponseBoatSmallIIgenerationboats. contains theresidentinspectionofficeandboatforcesdetachment,including January 24th.Thetwo-storey,5,000-square-footleasedpropertyinEstateSolitude here duringthedayasitmayneedtobemovedatanytime. they donotfisheveryday,andoftenonweekends,leaveyourboat tion withthefishermen’srequeststhatgotyachtsbannedinfirstplace.While seine, youmust,andpleasedoitpromptly.Itwascomplaintsaboutnon-coopera- (SMMA), soifat0600thefishermenaskyoutoleavebecausetheywantcasta ghy whileyouareintherestaurant. like toeatashore.TheHummingbirdsecuritywillkeepaneyeonyourboatanddin- the mostpopularanchorageinareaanditisgreatnewsforthosewhowould The USCoastGuardformallyopeneditsnewfacilityontheEastEndofSt.Croix New CoastGuardBaseinSt.Croix If youhaveanyquestions,calltheheadSMMAranger,PeterButcher,on(758)718-1196. This isafishingpriorityarea,partoftheSoufriereMarineManagementArea Christiansted Wilsons' CruzanCanvas USVI StCroix MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 • ANDY WATTS Well-known Barbadian Cruisers Help Assist Many thanks to the cruisers, sailmaker Andrew “Andy” “Andy” sailmaker Andrew Managing Watts, former Offshore Director of Doyle died sud- Sails, Barbados, 5th, denly on February a brain hem- reportedly of stal- orrhage. A long-time yacht- wart of the regional ing industry and the Bajan sailing scene, he will be missed. Flood Victims…

THOMAS HOPMAN affected by the Christmas Eve 2013 floods in St. Vincent are now better equipped inaffected by the Christmas Eve 2013 floods in St. Vincent pens, pencils, rulers,school, having provided folders, graph paper, exercise books, than 130 students.geometry sets, pencil cases, erasers and sharpeners for more —Continued on next page bareboaters, charter crews and their guests who supported the benefit concert underbareboaters, charter crews and on January 11th by the community action group Risethe Almond Tree in Bequia held of that the newly formed non-profit group, comprised Up Bequia. Dillon Ollivierre reports communities, has done its part to ensure that studentsBequia natives from various for FIA that we advise of his passing, FIA (575) 436 3601 - 435 8009 - COLOMBIA Continued from previous page Continued from Dave, a retired firefighter, and his wife, Judi, had been in the Caribbean on Dave, a retired firefighter, and his wife, Judi, had been Eight Bells • DAVE NOFS both sadness and tremen- Kathleen Johnson and Arleen Webster report: It is with Montserrat Joins Caribbean Marine Association Montserrat Joins Caribbean the Montserrat Yacht Club, has joined the Caribbean Montserrat, represented by suffered a massive blow when the volcano erupted Montserrat’s yachting industry to expand its membership throughout the The CMA is continuing to work Garric from French Customs The CMA takes this opportunity to thank Jean-Claude The property includes a boat maintenance shop, an armory, storage space and shop, an armory, storage a boat maintenance The property includes search and “The increased boat safety, Donna Christensen says, Congresswoman Condolences may be sent to Judi at [email protected]. after a valiant struggle with Parkinson’s disease, on January 21st at the age of 70. after a valiant struggle with Parkinson’s disease, on January dous respect for Dave Nofs of the Endeavour 40 Marine Association (CMA). Commodore of the Montserrat Yacht Club, Dwain Marine Association (CMA). taken an active part in OECS meetings working to pro- Loveth, has, for some time, the Eastern Caribbean. mote yachting throughout struggled to recover, not helped by the recent reces- nearly 20 years ago and has expand Montserrat’s yachting tourism, based around sion. With ambitious plans to is set to become another player in the expand- Little Bay and Carr’s Bay, Montserrat Montserrat offers a unique experience to yachting ing Caribbean marine industry. into the Exclusion Zone and on an island where visitors, now that tours are permitted by Caribbean standards. the pace of life is leisurely even with several other islands that may be joining in Caribbean and is still in discussion the near future. Jean-Claude is a good who is returning to France after 20 years in the Caribbean. of the unifying projects friend to the CMA and was a driving force behind many him well in his new post in within the region. He will be much missed. The CMA wishes Toulouse, France. parking. The boat forces are a detachment of the US Coast Guard Boat Station in of the US Coast Guard forces are a detachment parking. The boat homeland secu- fisheries enforcement, mission is search and rescue, San Juan. Their unit also edu- and migrant interdiction. The including drug rity and law enforcement commercial cruise ships and certain on safe boating and escorts cates the public Croix. entering and departing St. cargo vessels St. Croix is impor- contraband on its way to and ability to interdict rescue operations Coast Guard in increased visibility of the what is also important is the tant to us, but W. Pearson, Commander of U.S. Coast Guard Sector the community.” Captain Drew reduces Coast Guard response times to Search San Juan, says, “This new location cases and expands our ability to execute other and Rescue and Law Enforcement the area as we continue our collective efforts to protect Coast Guard missions in the in St. Croix and the US Virgin Islands.” safety and security of citizens — approximately 23 years and have friends cruising throughout the world. The couple approximately 23 years and have friends cruising throughout in the early 1990s. They sailed from the Bahamas to the Eastern Caribbean islands Virgin Islands and Puerto spent many years in Trinidad, Venezuela, Colombia, the they interacted with the Rico. They spent a large portion of time in Trinidad, where They very recently spent the local people as well as providing assistance to cruisers. final years of their cruising life in Cartagena, Colombia. MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 www.sailrockpublishing.com Virgin IslandsGovernor,DPNRCommissionerAliciaBarnes,EnforcementDirector were takenandabarrageofphonecomplaintsmade,includingcallstothe on ‘many’unregisteredvesselsinthatarea.” long initiativeinCoralBaytoridtheareaofillegalmooringsandenforcelaw Enforcement DirectorRobertoTapiasaidthathisofficerswereinvolvedinaweek- handling offirearmsduringaboatingregulationsenforcement‘sweep’…DPNR demanded pedestriansshowidentification,andwerelessthanprofessionalintheir Planning andNaturalResources(DPNR)officers,whoreportedlycutmooringlines, USVI weretakenabackbytheheavy-handedactionsofDepartment thinking ofnewwaystosavelivesonthewater. held fromOctober18th,2013toJanuary31st,2014,weapplaudyoungpeoplefor family callkeyandevenaspecialFacebooksession. and emergencycontactnumbers,and,formoralsupportwhileawaitingrescue,a make anemergencydistresscalltotheCoastGuard,andincludeGooglemaps equipment aboard,almosteveryonethesedayshasacellphone.Theappwould and otherboatersdon’thaveVHFradiosoremergencycommunication community —asearch-and-rescueappforcellularphones.Whilemanyfishermen Seventh DayAdventistSecondarySchoolthatcouldbeofbenefittotheirseafaring vations elicitedbythecompetitionwassuggestionateamfromBequia systems thatwouldprovideservicestothepublic.Amongmanycreativeinno- Grenadines (NTRC),studentswerechallengedtoinventnewtelecommunications com/multiple-crimes-against-cruisers-in-st-martin [crime] reportsfromconcernedcruisersinStMartin”at recent experiencesinPuertoLaCruz,Venezuelato in theGrenadines,andtoChrisDuffWalterof EC$425 (nearlyUS$160)worthofschoolsuppliestotheMayreauGovernmentSchool and TroumacaSecondaryschools. Chateaubelair MethodistPrimary,WestWoodPetitBordelSecondary students oftheTroumacaPrimary,FitzHughesSpringVillageMethodist Vincent &theGrenadinesRedCross,wasabletovisitanddistributethesesupplies — • Twosailing-andisland-relatedpublishingcompaniesnowhavewebsites.See Cruisers’ Site-ings • WadeandDianeAlarieof The CoralBayboatingcommunitywasoutraged.Photosofgun-totingofficers As wereportedintheJuly2012issueof Update onDPNRActioninSt.John,USVI Although thisideadidn’tmakethefinalsinnationwidecompetitionthatwas In arecentcontestheldbythetelecommunicationsregulatorsinSt.Vincent& Students SuggestMaritimeS&RApp • TheCaribbeanSafetyandSecurityNetdetails“anunprecedentednumberof Kudos alsotoDawnandLaurieCorbettof … andSchoolchildreninMayreau For moreinformationvisitRiseUpBequia’sFacebookpage. The groupjourneyedtoSt.VincentonFebruary12thand,withtheaidof Continued frompreviouspage and S/V Joana www.caribbeebooks.com havesentadocumentsummarizingtheir Compass S/V CatTales . , “BoatersinCoralBay,St.John, S/V Sudiki www.noonsite.com. www.safetyandsecuritynet. for theirdonationof . fordeliveringthem.

WWW.CORALBAYSTJOHN.COM tion clearsupanymisunderstandings. northern coastofVenezuelaandaboutfivemilesoffshore.Wehopethisexplana- dent tookplacesome15milestothewestoftipthispeninsula,wellalong fact, thenotoriousPariaPeninsulaiseasternmosttipofVenezuelaandinci- place inTrinidadwatersbecauseoftheproximityPariaPeninsulatoTrinidad.In Not PariaAgain”,mayhavegiventheimpressionthatpiracyincidenttook Tapia facesamaximumpenaltyoflifeinprison. of timeandutilizinghispositionwithassetsDPNRtofacilitatethoseactivities. Tapia admittedtoextensivecocainetraffickingactivitiesoverasubstantialperiod entering hispleaofguiltytoracketeeringbeforeDistrictCourtJudgeCurtisGomez, Puerto Rico,andtopossessionofafirearminfurtherancedrugtrafficking.In and transportofmorethan100kiloscocainefromtheVirginIslandstoabuyerin ed guiltyonSeptember24thlastyeartoracketeering,whichencompassedthesale Department ofJusticefortheincident)nearlysevenyears.Tapia,age55,plead- investigation (aseparatefromtheonehewasunderby while carryingeightkilosofcocaine.ItturnedoutthathehadbeenunderanFBI Enforcement RobertoTapiawasarrestedexitingtheSt.Thomaspassengerferry their authorityandactionswerenotillegal. that thedepartmentwasreprimandedbutitfoundofficerswerewithin Commissioner, AliciaBarnes,saidsheregrettedtheactionsofherofficersandstated further “registrationchecks”occurred.Sixmonthslater,astatementreleasedbythe Enforcement Teamwasnotseeninthebayafterinvestigationstartedandno the DPNREnforcementTeam,inparticular,RobertoTapia. Around 200boatersattendedthehearing,reportingallegedillegalactionsof the boatersandpromisedthattheircomplaintswouldbeheardatapublichearing. Roberto Tapia,andSenatoratlarge,CraigBarshinger.Barshingermetwith section. Goodtohaveyouwithus! Enterprises ofFlorida,onpage11andMarigourmetSt.LuciaintheMarketPlace In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! The itemwhichappearedinJanuary’sInfo&Updatesundertheheading“OhNo, Not THATParia! Six monthsafterthestatementwasreleased,inMay2013,DPNRDirectorof An internalinvestigationbytheDepartmentofJusticewaslaunched.TheDPNR Caribbean Compass wewelcomenewadvertisersHotwire MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7

MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 OYSTER, INGRID ABERY INGRID OYSTER,

BRENDA MEIER —Continuedonnextpage should measureatleasttenmetres(33feet) atthewaterline. Applicants shoulddemonstrateevidence ofownershiptheiryacht.Thevessel visiting yachtownerscannowapplyfora180daysvisapercalendaryear. free downloadableformatsaswellotherproductsforcruisers. next month,freeatwww.FreeCruisingGuides.com. Guides. Searchablealphabeticallybycountryandindustry,itwillbeavailable or enroutetotheCaribbeanisinfinalstagesofpreparationatFreeCruising Guard Captain’sandMaster’s(100tons)licenses. University ofPuertoRico,fluentinSpanish,EnglishandItalian.HealsoholdsUSCoast exclusive salesrepresentativeforPuertoRico.Mr.Dupreyisagraduateofthe service andagreatproduct! sion load.Contactusforyouroptions.KISSisbackinbusinesswithgreatcustomer complete package,you’llwanttheKISS(US$1,495),achargecontrolleranddiver- for futureimprovements,alltobereverse-compatiblewiththeoriginalmodel.Fora included forcosmeticreasons. anced andcanbereplacedindividually.Andalong-requestednoseconeis smoother, andhavewear-protectionontheleadingedge.Theycomefactorybal- housing improveswindtrackingandeaseofinstallation.Thebladesarestronger, complaint abouttheoriginalKISS.Anewlydesignedyawbearingatbaseof which increasesthewindspeedatitwillgointofreewheel,mostcommon with specialresinsandothermaterialsthatallowforhigheroperatingtemperatures, for increasedoutput,especiallyinhigherwindspeeds.Thehousingsarenowmade the thermalsensorsandmagnetsareselectedforhigheroperatingtemperatures,all much moreaccuratelymachined,therectifierisupgradedfrom30Ato50A,and improvements inlooksandperformance. the wheel”andhavekeptallbestqualitiesoforiginalKISSbutmade he felldownhiscompanionwayanddied.We’vespentthepastyear“reinventing before Dougflewuptotrainusinmanufacturingandsharehislistofpartssuppliers, Trinidad andmovedthebusinesstoTampaBayareaofFlorida.Tragically, become goodfriendsandourbestreferralsources! We knowwe’redoingsomethingrightbecausesomanyofourcustomershave life easierandmorecomfortable,stickingtotheKISSprincipal:KeepItSimple,Sailor! ing experiencetohelpothercruisersputtogetherwindandsolarsystemsthatmake warranty repairstationfortheKISS,weusedoureducationbackgroundsandcruis- ing thebatterieschargedwithaKISSHighOutputwindgeneratorandsolarpanel. added. Bythetimewesailedhome,wereusinglotsofelectricalgadgets,keep- were verybasic.Thelongerweout,themorecomfortsandconveniences Caribbean aboard Three KISSesinarow! BUSINESS BRIEFS In CuraçaotheImmigrationruleshavebeenchangedfavorablyasofmid-2013: Next Destination?ChooseCuraçao&Marine For moreinformationseeadonpage33. FreeCruisingGuides.com publishesguidesforcruisingsailorsinbothe-bookand A downloadabledirectoryofvendorsthatcatertocruisingboatsintheCaribbean Free CruisingGuidesispleasedtoannouncetheappointmentofLuisDupreyasits Free CruisingGuides’NewRepinPuertoRico For moreinformationseeadonpage11. We finallyhaveaproductthatwillpleaseanycaptainandcrew!R&Discontinuing The US-madestatoriswoundtighterforlessresistance,therotorsare Just overayearago,wepurchasedKISSEnergySystemsfromDougBillingsin Returning totheUSinlate1998asSVHotwireEnterprisesLLC,distributorand Libbie Ellisreports:JohnGambillandIspentnearlyfouryearscruisinginthe Return oftheKISS! S/V Hotwire , oursteelBruceRoberts36.Ourearlyenergyneeds

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Cruising Life: see ad on see ad on , was one of the five most The story “It Ain’t Over…(Till the Fat For more information on the e-book Caribbean Boat Show This Month The third annual Caribbean Lady Sinks)” by Ruth Chesman, which is included in the e-book The Best Stories from Caribbean Compass read posts of 2013 on the popular sail- ing blog “Women and Cruising” (www. womenandcruising.com). Ruth’s com- pelling story, voted number three among the top five favorites, recounts falling overboard between Martinique and Dominica, and watching her hus- band sail away. Cruising Life: The Best Stories from the Caribbean Compass page 33. International Boat Show will take place from March 21st through 23rd at Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico. The show features the latest in power- boats, , yachts, dive and trav- el, engines, marine electronics and fishing, plus the best in nautical gifts, services and apparel. This three-day www.manicouriver.com. Continued from previous page Continued from A reminder of the beneficial custom changes as of 2011: Curaçao Marine has as of 2011: Curaçao Marine the beneficial custom changes A reminder of interesting Curaçao Marine a very changes in the law make Both of the above owing to wet and dry storage is possible indefinite long-term At Curaçao Marine, on page 19. For more information see ad Noise Parts & Power on Generator the generator’s running!” “What? I can’t hear you — is power generating companies in the Caribbean, Parts & Power, one of the oldest Want to know more? Visit http://partsandpower.wordpress.com. Water for Boats in Dominica (PAYS) advises yacht visitors to Prince Rupert Bay Portsmouth Area Yacht Security during normal workday hours, boats may fill up for At the Cabrits cruise ship dock a tap and hose on a mooring ball near the Blue The PAYS organization has installed service providers dedicated to providing, in the PAYS is an association of yacht on Facebook. For more information visit the Portsmouth Area Yacht Security A New Way to Experience Carriacou that covers all aspects of The island of Carriacou now has a tourist service operator Isle of Reefs Tours aims toCarriacou has a lot to offer, both on land and on the water. I experienced several “During my years working for the Grenada Board of Tourism, Tours is planning to keep itCarriacou’s natural beauty is still unspoiled. Isle of Reefs For more information visit www.isleofreefstours.com. Off the Grid in Dominica is the kind of accommo- Dominica is a nature-lover’s paradise and Manicou River rainwater harvesting, Completely off-grid with state-of-the art solar power and For more information visit New Restaurant in Carriacou to Carriacou’s newest JB Bocquel (former owner of Lazy Turtle) welcomes guests Call 443-8300 for reservations or visit www.moringacarriacou.com. Story from Compass Collection Among Most Read For more information visit www.cibspr.com. bonded warehouse status, meaning that yachts can be stored without a time limit yachts can be stored without status, meaning that bonded warehouse when uninhabited. in a secure and for sailors wanting to be long-term cruisers as well as destination for the hurricane season. safe area during Roodberg status. With their new 60-ton their bonded warehouse their facilities and boatyard. out and stored on their secure up to 80 feet can be hauled trailer, yachts generator noise in an informative multi-part series of addressing the issue of diesel posts on their blog. direct to boats at two locations. that water is now available only EC$15 (US$6). tank filling and for boat wash down, all for EC$50 and Bay Restaurant, suitable for make the Cabrits dock untenable. Please ask your PAYS available when high winds marine greeter for details. and enjoyable location for cruisers and charterers. Their Prince Rupert Area, a safe and land tour guides, members include government trained and licensed marine cooperation has resulted in taxi drivers, restaurant owners, and others. Their group and other activities. overnight anchorage patrols, regular group barbecues, the authentic Caribbean vibe this little, unspoiled, Grenadine gem. Carriacou offers life on Carriacou is all and Isle of Reefs Tours lets small groups experience what from January 2014. about. Isle of Reefs Tours started offering their activities range of activities, whichshow tourists all aspects of the island and offers a broad trips and ecological sustain- includes island tours, guided hikes, offshore camping, boat and also unique in offeringability trips. “We are unique in offering such a broad range all at a very high quality,”what is considered the future in leisure and tourist services, rather than quantity.” Allison Caton explains. “Tourism should be heading for quality the services they received instances in which the tourists were disappointed with in the industry is very impor- from an unreliable boat captain or tour guide. Reliability guides available for the tant and Isle of Reefs Tours has its own captain and two activities to ensure this reliability”. offering a Carbon Offset Tour. that way and even aims to enlarge its natural beauty by surrounded by trees offer dation this unique island deserves. Open-fronted cottages wildlife including humming- ocean views and close proximity to a great variety of birds, parrots, falcons and fireflies. operating entirely on Manicou River is the only accommodation on the island renewable energy. — Moringa Restaurant dining experience. Located on the Esplanade in Hillsborough, twist. Plus, it’s a place where and Crêperie features Caribbean cuisine with a French every day you’ll find lionfish on the menu! Open for lunch and dinner except Tuesdays. event will be the once-a-year chance to compare makes and models, and gear up with the latest accessories. MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10

AGNES ETCHGOYEN M. BRANDT diseases killingcoralhere. territory’s coralreefs,knownaswhiteplague,whichisoneofthemoreprevalent hotspot forcoraldisease.Theyhaveturnedtheirattentiontoaspecificthreatthe researchers attheUniversityofVirginIslands(UVI),territoryisalsoa Yachts wereinvitedtoseparatelycarbonoffsettheirfuelduringtheevent, eco-conscious charterclientstoeliminatethecarbonfootprintofyacht’sfuel. and fuelfortheshuttleservice.Theserviceparalleledthatofferedtoprominent the event’sDecember2013offsetcoveredonshoreelectricity,flightsbyorganizers, bon footprint”throughYachtCarbonOffset’sspecialistservice.Asinpreviousyears, both residentsandtouristsbytheLesFruitsdeMerAssociation,was first day offunanddiscoveryatSnorkelFest2014.Thefree,publiceventwascreated for article/info%3Adoi%2F10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0057164. If thecoralsdieandcrumbleawayyoudon’thavethat,”shesaid. the coralreefs,whichproducethingswelike—fishandconchlobster. plight ofcoral.“Coralsprovidethehabitat.Theyareecosystemengineersfor all and AtmosphericAdministration’s(NOAA)CoralReefConservationProgram. the DepartmentofPlanningandNaturalResourcesfundedbyNationalOceanic dinator fortheVI’sTerritorialCoralReefMonitoringProgram,whichwasestablished by Caribbean,” Dr.Smithsaid.InadditiontohisUVIresearch,heservesasresearchcoor- (where thestudywasconducted)hashighrelevanceforresearchersthroughout the unidentified mechanism.” nies, whichsuggestssecondarytransmissionispossiblethroughsomeother, appearance ofdisease,butthatthediseasewascapablespreadingamongcolo- fragmentation andcontactwithsedimentplayedprimaryrolesintheinitial complex thanoriginallythought.” from morerecentstudies,likeours,suggestthatthecausalagentmaybe to beassociatedwithabacterialpathogen,butDr.Brandtsays,“Conflictingresults in 2005,accordingtoDr.Brandt.Inthe1990s,diseasewasoriginallythought responsible forkillinglargeamountsofcoralafterawarmingeventhittheterritory ease thatwedidn’tknowanythingabout.” devastating towatchyourfavoritedivesitejustbeingdestroyedbecauseofthisdis- been atopicofmyprimaryresearchsinceundergraddays,”shesaid.“Itwas She firstencounteredwhiteplagueonadivetriptotheCaymanIslandsin1999.“It’s try tounderstandthediseasesothatwecanbettermanageitorevenpreventit.” contact oflivingcoraltissuewithsandandsedimentafterHurricaneEarlin2010. as apotentialcoralpathogen.”Theresearchalsoshowedthediseasewastriggeredby by viruses,”Dr.Brandtsaid.“Thisisthefirststudyofitskindthathasidentifiedviruses a researchandoutreacharmofUVI’sMarineScienceProgram. Oregon StateUniversityandPh.D.graduatestudentNitzanSoffer. Brandt onthestudywereDr.TylerSmithofUVI,RebeccaVega-Thurber Studies, haveidentifiedvirusesasapotentialcoralpathogen.CollaboratingwithDr. waters, ledbyDr.MarilynBrandtofUVI’sCenterforMarineandEnvironmental The VirginIslandsareknownasahotspotformarinetourism.Unfortunately,say UVI ResearchersImplicateVirusinCoralPlague For moreinformationvisitwww.yachtcarbonoffset.com. For thefifthyearrunning,AntiguaCharterYachtMeetingcounteractedits“car- Yacht CarbonOffsetPartnership More than150peopleofallagesarrivedonPinelIslandSaturdayforaspecial St. Martin’sSnorkelFest2014 Journal entriesbasedonDr.Brandt’sstudyareavailableatwww.plosone.org/ Dr. BrandtthinksVirginIslandersshouldbeasconcernedsheisaboutthe “Understanding whatisoccurringonasmallscaleinlocationlikeBrewer’sBay Brandt’s study,detailedinthescientificjournalPLOSONE,notedthat“colony White plaguediseaseisknowntoaffectmorethan30speciesofcoralandwas That, hopefully,isasteptowardachievingDr.Brandt’soverallgoal,which“to “The researchsuggeststhatwhiteplaguediseaseisassociatedwithandmaybecaused UVI’s CenterforMarineandEnvironmentalStudieswasestablishedin1999.Itis Recent investigationsofthecausesseverecoraldiseasesinVirginIslands CARIBBEAN ECO-NEWS —Continued onnextpage Jenn Yerkes. Fruits deMerPresident SnorkelFest,” saidLes our firstannual ter worldofSt.Martinat the incredibleunderwa- snorkeling anddiscover people cameouttotry thrilled thatsomany will hostin2014. Events theAssociation of fourWildlifeDiscovery “We’re absolutely MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 The As part of this effort, an activity book show- A film crew will also be joining the team to the third year, Environmental Protection in the third year, Environmental Protection in the Caribbean (EPIC) will be leading field research with Grupo Jaragua and Societé Audubon Haiti, in partnership with American Bird Conservancy and the US Fish and Wildlife Service, using radar to locate the elusive petrel, thanks to support from the Disney Conservation Fund. casing the petrel will be given out to children who live near nesting areas and mobile presen- tations will be provided so villagers can learn more about this neighbor, locally referred to as the Diablotin; the petrel’s call is said to sound like the devil as it flies overhead at night. create a feature-length documentary about the JOSHUA ROSE Continued from previous page Continued from For more information visit www.sandwatch.org. The Sandwatch training videos are now available free, in English and Spanish, at Sandwatch videos show step-by-step the different methods used in Sandwatch to For more information visit SusGren’s Facebook page. Free Sandwatch Training Videos Online Sandwatch is a program in which children, youth and adults work together to SusGren is a Grenadines NGO that focuses on the conservation of the coastal and Both phases of the projects have been funded by the US National Fish and Wildlife The economy and health of the coastal communities of the Grenada Bank depend The next phase of the project will focus on enforcement, harmonization of monitor- The next phase of the project will focus on enforcement, The first phase of the project demonstrated that an effectively functioning network The first phase of the project demonstrated that an effectively The Grenadines Network of MPAs was established during the first network meetingThe Grenadines Network of MPAs was established during These Marine Protected Areas (MPAs) include three in St. Vincent & the Grenadines These Marine Protected Areas (MPAs) include three in For more information visit www.epicislands.org. Grenadines Network of MPAs Receive Grants Grenadines Inc Six marine parks have received support through Sustainable For more information visit http://ass.lesfruitsdemer.org. the Brink Bringing a Bird Back from an endangered seabird that has only been found nest- The Black-Capped Petrel is Plan, which was just All these activities contribute to the Conservation Action Visitors also had a unique opportunity to learn about local flora and St. Martin’s opportunity to learn about local flora and St. Martin’s Visitors also had a unique SnorkelFest attendees also explored the sea from above, with free Stand-Up PaddleSnorkelFest attendees also Event-goers got the scoop on undersea life from a marine biologist, a local teacher, from a marine biologist, the scoop on undersea life Event-goers got Over 70 people enjoyed free guided snorkeling tours and instruction from PADI tours and instruction enjoyed free guided snorkeling Over 70 people youtube.com/sandwatchvideosENG (English videos), youtube.com/sandwatchvideo- sESP (Spanish videos). The time to get involved in Sandwatch and take action to protect your beaches is now. monitor beaches. The first video gives an overview of Sandwatch, while the following videos display specific methods. For example, there are two videos showing methods for finding out whether a beach is eroding or accreting over time: one shows how to measure the beach width and the second shows how to measure a beach profile or transect. Other videos illustrate different aspects of beach monitoring, for example, water quality, beach debris and how to design a questionnaire to find out beach users’ likes and dislikes about a beach site. scientifically monitor and critically evaluate the problems facing their beach environ- ments. They then design and implement practical activities and projects to address particular issues, enhance their beach environment and build resilience to climate change. The Sandwatch approach is called MAST: Monitoring, Analysing, Sharing information, and Taking action. marine environment and sustainable livelihoods for the people of the Grenadines, achieved through capacity building and increased awareness of the environment for non-governmental organizations and community groups. Foundation (NFWF) through the Sustainable Grenadines Inc. (SusGren). directly on marine and coastal ecosystems and the biodiversity these systems support. It is also very important for supporting livelihoods for communities of the Grenadine islands of Grenada and St. Vincent & the Grenadines that depend on them. ing and evaluation activities, and enhanced outreach and collaboration with com- ing and evaluation activities, and enhanced outreach munities. The participating MPAs will receive tailored assistance to help support activities in these areas. of MPAs holds great potential to help address both direct and indirect threats to of MPAs holds great potential to help address both direct reefs and associated coastal ecosystems. two years ago, seeking to promote collaboration between marine protected areas,two years ago, seeking to promote collaboration between effective management andrelated agencies and communities. Its objective is to promote use of marine resources. to share experiences in the conservation and sustainable (Tobago Cays Marine Park, Mustique Marine Conservation Area and South Coast (Tobago Cays Marine Park, Mustique Marine Conservation (Sandy Island Oyster Bed, Marine Conservation Area), and three in Grenada Protected Areas). Molinere-Beausejour and Woburn-Clarkes Court Marine (SusGren) as part of the second phase of its project entitled Strengthening Reef (SusGren) as part of the second phase of its project Management in the Grenada Bank. ing in the Dominican Republic and Haiti. They return at night to their nests found and Haiti. They return at night to their nests found ing in the Dominican Republic makes it a challenge to find them. Fortunately, tech- high in the mountains, which For in the search for the last refuges of this species. nology has lent a helping hand of which EPIC is a member. updated by the Black-capped Petrel Working Group, of bringing the petrel back With so many groups working together, there is clear hope from the brink of extinction. special coastal environment on the Guided Coastal Walk. The Walks were led by on the Guided Coastal Walk. The Walks were led special coastal environment du Galdi, who represents the Conservatoire environmental engineer Béatrice for protecting coastal spaces, in both St. Martin Littoral, an institution responsible and St. Barths. live nearby. similar needs of both the people and the petrels that Board and transparent kayak activities offered by Caribbean Paddling. Kids of all agesBoard and transparent kayak art activities, including creative activity pages developedparticipated in ocean-inspired sea and coloring sheets featuring local wildlife of the for SnorkelFest by a local artist and coast. Incomplete Guide to the Wildlife of St. Martin. to the Wildlife of St. Martin. Incomplete Guide found on the underwater life and habitats station learned about the Visitors to the mangrove, the reef ecosystem to terrestrial, trail, the relationship of Pinel snorkeling the habitat protection and the scientific research that and coastal ecosystems, and from displays, signs, and exhibits created by happens in the Réserve Naturelle Naturelle. Yokoyama and the Réserve and other experts on marine flora and fauna at the festival’s Marine Life Discovery at the festival’s Marine on marine flora and fauna and other experts author of Fruits de Mer co-founder and by Mark Yokoyama, Les Station, hosted instructors on the Réserve Naturelle’s special underwater trail, thanks to trail, thanks to special underwater the Réserve Naturelle’s instructors on surface. first-ever peek below the For some, it was their ECOSNORKELING. — MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 http://mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com. ed onJanuary24th. 300-mile OceanRacefromBarbadosto Antigua start- Race andTheMountGayRoundBarbados Race.The round-the-buoy racesincludingtheTwo Restaurants Caribbean regattas,andrunaseriesofcoastal, the eventfurtherin2014,linewithmostother proved suchasuccessthatitwasdecidedtoexpand with racingtakingplaceovertwodays.Theidea expanded toincorporatetheTwoRestaurantsRace, ensure theywontheprize. posely stalledandremainedoutatseafordaysto following thediscoverythatsomecompetitorspur- the slowestyachtwasdiscontinuedseveralyearslater consolation prizeofabarrelMountGayRumfor premium, thiswasalucrativeraceforcaptains.The arriving aheadofrivalshipscommandedamassive trading schooner.Inanerawherepricesforcargo race wasbaseduponbraggingrightsforthefastest winner withatimeoftenhours20minutes.Theoriginal Sea Fox when fivetradingschoonerstookupthechallenge. an entirebeat. the north,whichmadeeasternsideofisland shift roundtothesouthratherthanforecast ed. Interestinglythewindalsomadeafairlyatypical tage tosomeofthebiggerboatsthathadjuststart- swept throughthefleetlatemorningwasanadvan- race remainedfairlystable.However,arainsquallthat worked well,andthewindinearlypartof off first(from0730)andfastestboatslast(1140) windsurfer totheDutchbrigantine have beenbetter.The36entriesrangedfromalocal 60-mile clockwisesprintaroundtheislandcouldn’t course, andbigrollingseas,theconditionsforthis ence inahurry.” dreams aremadeof,andwewon’tforgettheexperi- share theteam’sgloryonaboatlikethis,arewhat record isfantasticandtohavetheopportunity onboard too.Adamcommented,“Tobreakthe on ofchampionseventin2013theirJ/97—were the RoyalSouthernYachtClubSummerSerieschampi- Tourist AuthorityLondonOffice,fortheiroverallwinof Round BarbadosRaceSeriescourtesyofthe Munday —whowontheirtriptotheMountGay winning theskipper’sweightinrum!” and crewboss,said,“Weareparticularlyhappytobe Monster Project was MountGay’scharterboatforthisevent.As record establishedin2012by and 28seconds,knocking21minutesofftheprevious Barbados Race,withatimeoffourhours,42minutes record intheJanuary21stMountGayRound British VO70 News Regatta entry forthe2009VolvoOceanRace, race inidealconditions.Formerly Fabrice Cornicontactics,sailedasmart,mistake-free record forcorrectedtime. Reichel Pugh78. Carol Bareutherreports:Gustsover20knots androll- 13th ClubNáuticodeSanJuanInternational Regatta For moreinformationvisit In 2012theMountGayRoundBarbadosRace The firstrecordedraceroundBarbadoswasin1936 The staggeredstartformatwithslowestboatssetting With windsreaching25knotsonsomepartsofthe Father andsonduofromtheUKNickAdam Sue Pellingreports:TheMountGayteamaboardthe Monster Project Monster Project , underCaptainLouKenedy,wastheoverall Monster Project sailedintoport,AndyBudgen,owner , withLoicBlankenonthehelmand Sets NewRoundBarbadosRecord Idea , however,broketheCSA setanewabsolute Idea Kosatka, —JohnWilson’s Tres Hombres. Monster Project theRussian

PETER MARSHALL PETER Juarbe, on maximize thewavesandpuffstoouradvantage.” on thedownwind—whenMelgesplaneto focus ongoodboathandling,makefewerrors,and Tactician RafiMartinezsays,“Ourstrategywasto J/105 three Melges32s,PuertoRico’sJonathanLipuscek’s us agooddiversityofclasses.” fit inwiththedinghies,butithasworkedwellbygiving years agohowtheadditionofbiggerboatswould CNSJIR organizingcommittee.“Wewonderedafew year’s regatta,”explainsLuisFabre,chairmanofthe Juan Bay.“Weareveryhappywiththesuccessofthis the sixclassesthatsailedbothonandoutsideSan of SanJuan,PuertoRico. (CNSJIR), heldJanuary31stthroughFebruary2nd,out 13th ClubNáuticodeSanJuanInternationalRegatta hundred sailorsfromfiveislandswhocompetedinthe ing seascreatedchallengingconditionsfornearlya Sierra aboard Cachondo a jibandfourcrew.” for theJ/24becauseCACGamesformatcalls Mexico,” headds.“TheIC24isexcellentforpractice Central American-CaribbeanGamesinNovember see whatJ/24teamwillrepresentPuertoRicointhe good,” saysLugo.“Weareintheselectionprocessto “It wascloseracingastheyoungersailorsarevery and holdituntiltheend,scoringeightfirstsin13races. saw PuertoRico’sFraitoLugo’s er, JaimeTorres,driving going onatLePhareBleu be missed.Otheractivities unique toGrenadaandnot free “floating”concertthat’s on March5thisafun-filledand 9th. ADinghyConcertKickoff ment fromMarch5ththrough action andloadsofentertain- ing uplotsoffun,greatracing Grenada Regattawillbeserv- www.nauticodesanjuan.com. 6th through8th,2015. CNSJIR willbeheldFebruary the Laser4.7class.The14th Rico’s RicardoValenzuelaled Fernandez Gamboa.Puerto was PuertoRico’sPedro Rounding outthirdinthisclass Sailing WorldChampionships. will berepresentingSt.MaartenintheISAFYouth be heldinTavira,Portugal,July12ththrough19th. the ISAFYouthSailingWorldChampionships,whichwill ify torepresentPuertoRicointheLaserRadialclassat and holdmylead.”Lazaro-Lugoisattemptingtoqual- Regatta inFlorida,especiallyhowtogetgoodstarts learned alotmonthagosailingattheOrangeBowl in thisregatta,”saysthe17-year-oldLazaro-Lugo.“I place finishesin12races.“LastyearIfinishedsecond won theeight-boatLaserRadialclasswithsixfirst leader wasPuertoRico’sMarcThys. Optimist WhiteFleet.Thisyear’sGreenfleet Mendez scoredawinintheagetenandunder old OptimistRedFleet,whilePuertoRico’sJosé Smit says. few weeks.Thatreallyhelpedalotinthisregatta,” ticing inheavywindsbackhomeAntiguatheselast as the11to12yearoldBlueFleet.“We’vebeenprac- Optimist GreenFleet,wontheoverallthisyearaswell Smit, whofinishedfirstinthisregattalastyearthe Optimist Advancedwith13boats.Antigua’sDaniel CNSJIR. Truetopastyears,thelargestclasswas The Melges32sweren’tfarbehind.PuertoRico’sLuis In thesevenboatCSASpinnakerclass,including The CNSJIRRaceCommitteelaunched13racesfor Puerto Rico’sMarcoTeixidordrivinghisIC24, The secondkeelboatclass,afleetofsevenIC24s, The 6thAnnualSouth South GrenadaRegattaforFun ON THEHORIZON… Full resultsareavailableat Second placeLaserRadialfinisher,RhôneFindlay, In theLaserfleets,PuertoRico’sAgustinLazaro-Lugo Anguilla’s HuekeemiHugheswonthe13-to15-year- The dinghyclasseshavelongbeenthefoundationof Dark Star , finishedsecond,withPuertoRico’sCarlos SOCA Fuakata wonwithfivefirstsinsixraces. , finishedsecondwhilefellowisland- inthird. Smile andWave Orion takethelead

, wasthird. CARLOS LEE CARLOS Guard cutter and Dutchsidesoftheisland,respectively.TheCoast Sea RescueFoundation,withpostsonboththeFrench Maarten, RedCrossSt.andtheMaarten and secure,bothatseaashore:CoastGuardSt. roles inkeepingallthesailorsandpartygoerssafe the listareseveralorganizationsthatplayprominent numerous dedicatedlocalorganizations.Atthetopof Heineken Regatta,ittakescountlessvolunteersand Caribbean. ToconducttheannualSt.Maarten slate ofpartiesandmusicalentertainmentinthe and hasbecomeequallyfamousforitsworld-class Regatta hasshowcasedthetopboatsandsailing, Erickson’s alwaysdangerousFormula40, already filedtheironlineentranceforms,andNils quartet ofluxurydual-purposeGunboatsthathave growing rosterofslick,quickcatamarans,includinga for thisyear’sregatta.Theseboatswillbejoinedbya 52-footer, Lord IrvineLaidlaw’sstate-of-the-artGrandPrix — fromflashone-designracersliketheMelges24sto tests andpoint-to-pointdestinationraces. actual competitionconsistsofround-the-buoyscon- sailors andenthusiaststotheislandoveryears.The mances andpartiesthathaveattractedthousandsof event withexcitingentertainment,musicalperfor- petition thathasbecomeaone-of-a-kindsailing take placeMarch6ththrough9th.Thisannualcom- http://southgrenadaregatta.com. March 8thonRush10catamarans. south coast. this year,andallofthemtakeplacealongGrenada’s classes. ThreeoutoffourfleetracecoursesareNEW spinnaker, non-spinnaker,catamaran,fun,andJ/24 able frompick-uppointsaroundtown. alike. AfreeregattashuttletoLePhareBleuisavail- on forracersandnon-racers,Grenadiansvisitors musical entertainmentandparties;there’slotsgoing powerboat tours,aPirate’sTrailforthekids,nightly Marina overregattaweekendincludejuniorsailing, —Continuedonnextpage boats and1,000sailorsareexpectedfortheevent. fifth editionoftheVoilesdeSaint-Barth.Morethan70 www.heinekenregatta.com. hand shouldincidentsarise. Foundation (www.searescue.sx)—arealwayscloseat the patrolboatsfromSt.MaartenSeaRescue Back ontheracecourse,other“guardianangels”— St. Maartenhastenpeopleateachpartyvenue. from afleetofsmallervessels,andashoreRedCross For overthreedecades,theSt.MaartenHeineken An internationalfleetofmorethanahundredboats The 34thAnnualSt.MaartenHeinekenRegattawill St. MaartenRegatta:Racing,PartyingandSafety For moreinformationvisit This year’sMatchRaceswhichwilltakeplaceon South GrenadaRegattaracesunderCSArulesin From April14thto19th,SaintBarthélemywillhostthe Veuve ClicquotforVoilesdeSaint-Barth For moreinformationontheregattavisit Highland FlingXII Poema patrolsregularlywithassistance —havealreadyregistered Soma

. TIM WRIGHT / PHOTOACTION.COM / WRIGHT TIM MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 are both will be a Balearia Bristolian and the Spanish TP52 , which completed the race in four hours, , which completed the race YACHT RACES YACHT Sojana Yachting World is once again proud to be the spon- is once again proud to be Yachting World The magnificent 94-foot Frers The elapsed time winner of the Yachting World The elapsed time winner of Antigua Race is a stand- The Yachting World Round to enter visit For the Notice of Race and Round Guadeloupe and Dominica Regatta The Round Guadeloupe and Dominica Regatta, to The next day, all race from Marie Galante to A race in the waters off Portsmouth will be held on For more information contact Barbados May Regatta The Barbados May Regatta will be held May 15th For more information and online registration visit race will provide an ideal way for many classics to an ideal way for many race will provide All yachts Caribbean racing season. complete their this exciting and encouraged to enter are welcome an excellent The race will also provide one-day race. in for boats preparing to compete day of practice Week. Antigua Sailing Antigua Race and encourages sor of the Round the take on the challenge of breaking yachtsmen to record, Antigua Race elapsed time existing Round Farr-designed 115- currently held by Sir Peter Harrison’s foot in 2009. 37 minutes and 43 seconds year, although two high favourite for line honours this will provide a two- performance 52-foot race boats Australian team on pronged threat. Robert Date’s Scarlet Runner capable of finishing first. awarded the Yachting Round Antigua Race will be at the awards presenta- World Trophy after the race with the Antigua Sailing tion to be held in conjunction will also be awarded to Week Welcome Party. Prizes and to winners of the overall corrected time winner class. first through third places in each between Antigua Classic alone event on the Saturday Week — April 26th, 2014. Regatta and Antigua Sailing www.sailingweek.com. be held May 7th through 10th, is a multi-island event not to be missed! The first leg, from Pointe-à-Pitre, Guadeloupe to Marie Galante, is on May 7th. Portsmouth, Dominica. A Customs officer will be pres- ent on site at Fort Shirley in Cabrits National Park, and immediately upon arrival, the skippers will be trans- ported to the Customs office (the Customs forms will be available for skippers at regatta registration, to fill out in advance). A dinner and concert will take place at the fort that evening. If accommodations are required, the fort is fully equipped for the lodging of 44 persons with comfortable bunk beds in two dormito- ries with 16 beds each and two dormitories with four beds each, and there are up-to-date toilets and showers. the 9th. On the 10th, the course takes participants to Les Saintes, and on the 11th, the fleet sails back to Pointe-à-Pitre. All are welcome to enter this truly inter- national sailing event. [email protected]. through 18th. Hosted by the Barbados Yacht Club, and organized by the Barbados Sailing Association, this regatta features great coastal and bay racing in several classes. Longtime sponsors the Barbados Yacht Club, Mount Gay Rum, and Banks Breweries are ready to show local sailors and travelers alike great times on and off the water! Racing will take place on the Friday and Sunday, with a “sort of lay- day” on the Saturday. The sailors can plan to attend the Top Gear event that day on land at Bushy Park, or stay on the sea and participate in a fun race. What more can one ask for — racing fun on both land and sea! www.sailbarbados.com. @ Bequia Beach Hotel, Friendship Beach Friendship @ Bequia Beach Hotel, LOCAL DOUBLE-ENDER RACES RACES DOUBLE-ENDER LOCAL LAY DAY SUNDAY FAMILY FUN FAMILY SUNDAY DAY LAY Sandcastle Competition & All Competition Sandcastle Day Family Layday Fri 18 April: Races Friendship Bay • Cruising I & II Classes Racing, ‘Surprise’, , and the , the

19 April: Sat Bequia Race S/H Around Hairoun Sun 20 April, Layday: Mon 21 April: Bequia Races Around Races Triangle Bay Admiralty , and • J/24 Class Fri 18 April: 19 April: Sat 21 April: Mon Race Admiralty/Southside Challenges and 2nd Hairoun 1st 19/20 April: Sat/Sun 3-Race Challenge Insurance United J/24 Races 21 April: Mon Challenge Gay Mount Ruffian Dorade all entries should have a full , be of moder- ate to heavy displace- ment, built of wood or steel, and be of tradi- tional rig and appear- ance. Old craft restored using modern materials such as epoxy or glass sheathing, or new craft built along the lines of an old design, are acceptable. Vessels built of ferro-cement may be accepted if they have a gaff or tra- ditional schooner rig. Fibreglass yachts must have a long keel with a keel-hung and be a descendant of a wooden hull design. Yachts not fitting into the above categories may apply in writing with documents, photo- graphs or drawings to support their request for

WILFRED DEDERER , the 36-foot Mistress . , the 53-foot S&S yawl Dido, Spirit Of Callisto, Free Spirit, Chloe Rainbow Some of the yachts that have already submitted reg- Bequia’s specially designed series of six races for the designed series of six races Bequia’s specially (spin- run yacht races for Racing, And with superbly on this page. For more information see ad Yacht Regatta Spirits Coming to Antigua Classic Regatta will take The 27th Antigua Classic Yacht Classic Yacht Regatta, To be eligible for the Antigua The 2014 Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta programme Yachting World Round Antigua Race A huge variety of racing and cruising yachts are entry in the Spirit of Tradition Class. istration forms for the 2014 regatta are the 130-foot J Class J/24 Class, including The United Insurance J/24 three- The United Insurance J/24 Class, including the award on Easter Saturday, and Race Challenge Trophy to Caribbean Champion of the J/24 Southern that this is the J/24 winner ensures the Bequia’s overall every is able to attract J/24s from one event that nation in the region. and I (CSA-rated, non-spinnaker) naker), Cruising competi- and non-CSA rated Cruising II (liveaboards Design Classes (J/24s and tors) adding to the two One it’s a given that the “Surprise” boats from Martinique), and the region’s cruising both the Bequia Sailing Club eagerly looking forward to and racing community are event for 2014, com- yet another highly competitive hospitality for which the plete with that unique Bequia — is famous. regatta — and the island itself the 22nd of April. place from the 17th through will be held on the 15th Registration and inspections event remains strong, and 16th. Sponsorship for the EFG, S. Pellegrino, with Panerai, Mount Gay Rum, on the Rocks, OnDeck, Portland Yacht Services, Maine Antigua Yacht Club Lunenberg Shipyard Alliance, returning. Marina, as well as local supporters Nazgul of Fordell is now available at http://antiguaclassics.com. For more information see ad on page 15. expected for the 52-nautical-mile Yachting World Round Antigua Race on April 26th. With Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta concluding only a few days before the Yachting World Round Antigua Race, the Spirit Yachts Racing Spirit, Happy Forever, Flight of Ufford 60-foot schooner NOTICE OF RACE & Tel: (784) 457-3649 [email protected] BEQUIA SAILING CLUB

YACHT PRE-REGISTRATION: www.begos.com/easterregatta , the Spanish Hymphreys 77 skip- , the Spanish Hymphreys 77

, who has already announced his return. , who has already announced , Wendy Schmidt’s Swan 80, will be there also, , Wendy Schmidt’s Swan 80, Ocean Phoenix

Continued from previous page Continued from Following on from their record breaking 53-yacht Although much increased in size and status, for 33 Great Expectations for Bequia Easter Regatta 2014 Great Expectations for Bequia to announce The Bequia Sailing Club is delighted Mount Gay Rum, Hairoun joins loyal regatta sponsors Historical partners are also joined this year by Veuve are also joined this year Historical partners Veuve Clicquot is internationally Founded in 1772, David aboard his Maxi, Among them will be George Bequia Easter Regatta 2014 Bequia Easter Regatta - 21 April 17 Tourism Authority, together with the Frangipani Hotel and the Bequia Beach Hotel in offering generous sup- port to Bequia’s internationally renowned regatta. entry in 2013, the organizers are anticipating another strong turnout for their 33rd edition. “Everyone in the cruising community knows what a tremendous feel- good factor there is during Bequia Easter Regatta,” says Bequia Sailing Club spokesperson Nicola Redway, “so even though Easter is late this year, Bequia is still the only place to be if you are looking for the best fun you ever had at a small island regatta!” years the Bequia Easter Regatta has never lost its unique small island appeal. The sight of at least 30 locally built sprit-rigged double-ender boats compet- ing with legendary skill on the same waters as 50 or so yachts of all shapes and sizes, has no equal. that long-time Bequia Easter Regatta sponsors the St. that long-time Bequia Easter as Gold Sponsors of Vincent Brewery will be returning for April 17th through 21st, this year’s event, scheduled beer. with their hugely popular Hairoun Top Water and the SVG United Insurance, Mountain Clicquot, the champagne of world renown. champagne of world renown. Clicquot, the sophistica- its exceptional quality and recognized for commu- Sancerre, of international tion. Aymeric of the “One of the main features nications, explains, is the link to strategy of our company communication based on choose our partners lifestyle. We carefully of and the quality and refinement their elegance, de Saint-Barth suits these what they offer… the Voiles to show everyone what criteria perfectly. We intend other words that little bit we call the Twist Clicquot, in we wish to celebrate in of craziness in this lifestyle that greatest sailors.” St. Barth alongside the world’s Rambler Selene as will pered by Juan Luis Serra LaLaurie. — MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 Call (784)456-2602. beyond, andmore. AT BASIL’S: Call(784)457-2713. some ofthebestonisland.Nowofferingfullcateringservices. conditioned, youwillenjoycocktailsmostdelightful,thestaffwelcomingandmealsare BASIL’S BAR: Visitors toStVincent areinvitedto: efficiently arranged.Call(784)488-8407. pieces, homefurnishings,fabulouslightingaccessoriesandmore.Shippingiseasily Across Forever hasamagnificentcollectionoffurniturefromAsiaandbeyond,contemporary ACROSS FOREVER: Call (784)488-8407. Imported cigarsandanunusualcollectionofbooksnottobemissed.Fine foodsinParadise. Store. Bountifullystocked withfineFrench wines,cheesefromEurope,gourmetjamsandsauces. BASIL’S GREAT GENERAL STORE: take home.Basil’sBoutiquealsoofferssilverandgemstonejewelry. Elegant islandeveningandplayfuldaywear. For women,menandchildren,plus lotsofT-shirts to BASIL’S BOUTIQUE Festival takes placefromJanuary21-February 4,2015.Call(784)488-8350orVHF68. BBQ. Basil’sBarishomeoftheonlyBluesFestival MustiqueBlues intheCaribbean.Nextyear’s late. CometoBasil’sforcocktailsanytimeandplanattendtheWednesday NightJumpUpand beginsat8:00am.Lunch11:00am-6pm,andDinner7:30until up ontheweb.Breakfastservice the bestbeefburgerinCaribbean.EquippedwithWIFI,youcanenjoysunsetcocktailsandcatch of Basil’sBarinMustiqueisallthatandmore:offeringfreshseafood,lobsterseason,steaks Best Barsin1987byNewsweekandtodaylivesuptothattradition.Recently renovated,thenewface BASIL’S BARANDRESTAURANT: Visitors toMustiqueareinvitedto:

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LocatedinKingstownan18thcenturybuildingnamedCobblestone.Air WE SHIPAROUNDTHEWORLD! : Fabrics asbrighttheseaandlightair... perfectforislandjoy. Basil’s Bar ImaginedecoratingyourhomewithantiquesfromBaliandIndia. Shower&toilet Electricity &water • 22berthsforyachtsfrom22M-65M • • Electrical, refrigeration&mechanicalrepairs MARINA SERVICES Welding, painting,fi berglass • • Woodwork &metalwork • Sand 40tonne travellift • blasting Drydock facilitiesupto65M&1000tonne • • • Covered SHIPYARD REPAIR SERVICES drydock Basil’s BarinMustiquewasnamedoneoftheWorld’s Ten There is nothing general about Basil's Great General There isnothinggeneralaboutBasil'sGreatGeneral EST since1976 the topsailor’sbarby visitors haveaveryfriendlyattitude,especiallyatOneBar,whichwasrecentlyvoted budget. SituatedinPlayaBlanca,itisaproperholidayresortandthestaff supermarkets andthereisawiderangeofbarsrestaurantssuitableforany thousands ofmiles.MarinaRubicónisservicedbygoodvalue,large,well-stocked miles upthecoast,capitalAricifehasan820-tontravellift,onlyonefor Canaries. MarinaRubicónhasexcellentboatmaintenancefacilitiesandjustafew December, boundforJollyHarbour,Antigua. tions, evenaminiatureChristmastree! part ofSantaondepartureandeachboatwasgivenpresents,Christmasdecora- for them,thetimingofrallywasabigfactorintheirentry.Mikaelaplayed festive holidaytime.Manyoftheparticipantswerefamiliesorworkingcouplesand, decided tooffersomethingverydifferent. by MikaelaMeik.BothhavecrossedtheAtlanticwithARCinpastbut bound forSt.Lucia,aspartoftheARC. In November2013,some250yachtscrossedtheAtlantic,leavingGranCanaria for Cruisers(ARC).ForthelastthreedecadespopularityofARChasgrown. its advantagesbutsomefeelitcan“homogenize”theexperience. assistance ifrequired.Inessence,crossingtheAtlanticinanorganizedflotillahas which insistonastandardofboat,andinotherparticipantsclosebycanoffer dreds ofyachtsprefertoleaveEuropeheadingfortheCaribbeaninorganizedrallies, trip isagoodone.Unsuitableyachtsandill-preparedcrewareavoidablehun- that stepshavebeentakentoensureasafeandfuncrossing. ing thecrossingaspartofawell-runevent,thattrepidationisreducedbynotion the firsttime.Castingoffintounknowncanbeoverwhelming.However,bymak- of thesailorsininauguralChristmasCaribbeanRallyweremakingtripfor the personalrewardsofself-confidenceandself-esteemcanbelifechanging.Many boats madegoodtimeandsailedvirtuallythewholeway. leaving inmid-Decemberisthatthetradewindsarebetterestablished.Allof yachts completedthecrossinginlessthanthreeweeks.Oneofadvantages ocean. amongst theparticipants,whichadded tothemagicaladventureofcrossingan were abigpartofthesocialatmosphere andthatformedabondoffriendship intimate event.JohnandMikaelaareaccomplished musicians,andjamsessions ties, includingapracticalliferaftdemonstration withtheLanzaroteCoastguard. much more.Intheweekbeforedeparture therallyteamorganizednumerousactivi- from expertsinamyriadofsubjects:cooking atsea,weatherrouting,safetyseaand for longerstaysintheCanariesandCaribbean. ed mooringsatPortLouisMarina,Grenada,andupto50percentoffberthing fees berthing atMarinaRubicon(fivedays),JollyHarbour(sevendays)heavilydiscount- maintenance facilitiesandrestaurants. flights toEuropeandtheUSA.JollyHarbourhasanexcellentsupermarket,boat especially handyforvisitorswhoflyintogreettheparticipants.Antiguahasdirect tained marina.Italsooffersreasonableratesformooringsandaccommodation, this istherealworld.” for ourpositionandblogs.Iguesstherealworldawaits,butthenagain—maybe simply married,butbestfriends.Thankstoallofyouwhohavebeenwatching out and justthesolitudeofseacompanionshiptwopeoplewhoare not us downlastnight).Therehavebeennocallsontheradio,symbolsAIS, whole tripwehaveseensixships(includingthetankerthatcameclosetorunning rising onanemptysea.Awholeoceanthatfortwoandhalfweekswasours.In the the earlyhours,thatwillbetimetoreflect.ButIdoknowmiss sun need tweakingagain.Tomorrowwhenweawakeafternonightwatchesorsqualls in as westepashore.Nowisnottherighttimeforreflection—ifonlybecausesails sails weareonlyanhourorsobehindplanandIcanalmosttastethatrumpunch Today hasbeenoneoffarlighterwindsthanforecastbutbyconstanttweaking Not justanyoldisland,buttheonewehavebeenaimingforlastcoupleofweeks. Seminole Wind. Lanzarote hasjustasmanydirectflightsGranCanaria,themainislandof The firstChristmasCaribbeanRallyleftMarinaRubicón,Lanzaroteonthe15thof The ChristmasCaribbeanRallyisscheduledtorunduringschoolandtraditional The ChristmasCaribbeanRallyisthebrainchildofJohnSimpson,ablyassisted By farthebiggestexodus,atendofEuropeansummer,isAtlanticRally It isestimatedthatover2,000yachtscrosstheAtlanticeachyear,butnotevery Sailing acrossanoceanisnearlyeverysailor’sdream.Forthosewhohavedoneit, The routeisafewhundredmileslongerthantheARC.However,allsevenof For moreinformationvisitwww.sailingrallies.com. Five yachtshavealreadysignedupforthe 2014ChristmasCaribbeanRally. The firstChristmasCaribbeanRallyhad about40peopletakingpart,makingitan The rallyorganizesusefulseminarsinLondon,monthsbeforedeparture,withadvice A bigcostsavingforChristmasCaribbeanRallyparticipantsiscomplementary After alongvoyage,JollyHarbour,Antiguaispeaceful,secureandwell-main- “First alittledarksmudgeatthebaseofcloudthenharderline,anisland. Husband andwifeAlanTerryRyall(above)madethecrossingaloneon A NEWRALLYISBORN Alan summedupwhatitwasliketofinallyreachAntigua: CHRISTMAS CARIBBEANRALLY Scuttlebutt SailingNews by LouayHabib readers. MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15

KEVIN JOHNSON RICK TOMLINSON

went Adela , the 112- Freya had it all on Adela Marama crew won by a land- Unfurled had beaten . Timoneer Unfurled Unfurled Gloria won the third race of the regatta, much to the The first day of racing provided the windiest condi- Top: The newly restored Gunpowder House Above: Crew of the overall winner, Left: Glorious by Louay Habib when their spinnaker shredded, but the crew made a tremendous recovery of the sail and finished third after time correction. tions and several yachts ripped sails in gusts of up to 30 knots. With boats of this size, the sail areas are enormous. The 112-foot sloop KEVIN JOHNSON Gloria by a single point from Marama by just two seconds. Significantly, if THE SUPERYACHT CHALLENGE ANTIGUA CHALLENGE THE SUPERYACHT

had a cracking start, nailing the pin end of the line with just one second to Adela

For more information visit www.thesuperyachtchallenge.com. The fifth edition of The Superyacht Antigua is scheduled to take place on the last The Prizegiving Ceremony was a light-hearted affair set on the lawn at the Copper Day Two and the breeze was still up in the high teens, gusting over 20 knots. Two That evening, superyacht chefs and crew had a Cook Off on the small beach next to With just one race on the final day, the top three places were very much undecided. A gala champagne reception was held at the newly restored Gunpowder House with A gala champagne reception was held at the newly restored “The Superyacht Challenge Antigua was created solely to provide an event that was “The Superyacht Challenge Antigua was created solely Hosted by The Admiral’s Inn, Nelson’s Dockyard, the regatta is a private event Inn, Nelson’s Dockyard, the regatta is a private event Hosted by The Admiral’s The fourth edition of The Superyacht Challenge Antigua, held January 30th through Challenge Antigua, held January 30th through The fourth edition of The Superyacht weekend of January 2015. and Lumber Store in Nelson’s Dockyard. There is no silver trophy for the winner of The Superyacht Challenge Antigua: a barrel of rum is the only award for the winner. The exceptionally close racing was a sure sign that the competitors take the racing extreme- ly seriously, but the sailors leave that competitive edge on the race course and enjoy each other’s company at social gatherings that are full of smiles, fun and laughter. foot sloop would have tied for an overall victory for the regatta. However, the overall winner of the fourth edition of the Superyacht Challenge Antigua was the consistent 102-foot ketch shorter, tighter races tested the boat-handling skills. The 182-foot schooner the superyacht dock in Nelson’s Dockyard. The competitors eagerly savoured an amazing array of succulent food on eight sensationally designed gourmet tables. Stand-up tables were laid along the dock next to the yachts. Superior cuisine, great company – it was absolutely fabulous. won the first race but lost a man overboard in the second. The Swan 90 to assist and was later awarded the Seamanship Prize for their efforts. The rescued sailor was bruised and shaken but suffered no serious effects from the incident. The debutant 126-foot schooner delight of the owner and crew. The night’s entertainment was a beach barbecue and the much-heralded Loud Shirt Competition, which the Unfurled spare; the German Frers sloop sailed a near-perfect race but after time correction lost out to slide, well led by boat captain Phil Wade, sporting a wig and clown’s trousers! its fabulous infinity pool, and every evening there was another party to savour. The its fabulous infinity pool, and every evening there was held over three days in up racing was as spectacular as the parties. Four races were breeze — the racing was abso- to three metres of Caribbean swell and 25 knots of was an amazing spectacle of lutely fantastic. The 2014 Superyacht Challenge Antigua through perfect Caribbean superyachts at their best: fully powered up and blasting sailing conditions. about celebrating superyacht racing and a relaxed party atmosphere ashore,” com- about celebrating superyacht racing and a relaxed party “At the request of superyacht mented Stan Pearson, one of the founders of the event. For example, we owners, we have no sponsorship or commercial endorsements. from companies willing to pay needed new racing marks and we had plenty of offers to pay for the marks them- for them in return for branding but the owners decided great racing and orga- selves. Without sponsors we can just concentrate on delivering nizing fun parties, without any commercial restraints.” designed for the pure enjoyment of the competitors. The fleet of superyachts was a of the competitors. The fleet of superyachts was designed for the pure enjoyment racers and debutants for the circuit. A range of cours- mixture of regular superyacht of Antigua were complemented by spectacular conditions es set off the south coast one of the closest finishes ever in the history of supery- and the challenge produced fabulous parties, all hosted acht racing. Ashore, the owners, crew and guests enjoyed in Nelson’s Dockyard. February 2nd, attracted eight magnificent yachts ranging from 90 to 182 feet in magnificent yachts ranging from 90 to 182 feet February 2nd, attracted eight as a event of the new year and is now established length. It is the first superyacht highly desirable event.

Fabulous Absolutely MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 BACK ONTHEMAP! YACHT RACING— GRENADA by RuthLund

ISLAND WATERWORLDGRENADASAILINGWEEK ALL PHOTOS: DEREK PICKELL DEREK PHOTOS: ALL flag system Left: GSW2014employedanAmerica’sCupstart placed themsecondandthirdrespectively. Hobie 33, dominated, particularlyatthebeginning.Themodified you havetherecipeforarip-roaring,successfulregatta. octane entertainmentandafriendlyGrenadianwelcome breezes andrelativelycalmseas.Addtothissomehigh- February 4th,withbrilliantsunshine,brisk15-to20-knot favoured GrenadaSailingWeek(GSW),January30ththrough Scott Watson’sJeanneau51, In Cruising2Class,JasonFletcher’sGrenadaMarine In RacingClass,MarkChapman’sfastRP37, After monthsofheavywindandrain,theweathergods Main photo:Cruising1Classwinner and BestPerformingYacht, Category 5 Lay, Sailing’s BeneteauOceanis461, lenged byspiritedteamsonBluewater regatta. Hispositionwasseriouslychal- well asBestPerformingYachtofthe Jaguar last racewithPeterMorris’sFrers43, Class, thewinnerwasdecidedin Tension Bernard Evan-Wong’sMumm36, three racestotakesecondplaceoverall. the boattocomebackstronglyinlast quick repairsandacrispnewsailallowed in theriggingandsailmakingbusiness, with locallybasedskipperRichardSyzjan had asheaveboxripoutofthemast,but In afiercelycontestedCruising1 , experienced sail delamination and , experiencedsaildelaminationand skipperedbyAlexJohnstone,and , takingtopClasshonoursas , was third. , wasthird. Boxxer Jaguar —atiebreaker

Dingo Chao High High , the Gibsea43 Martinique sloop on theupwindlegs.TheregularlycampaignedPetite Desiderata Barker, wasfirst,increasinghisleadonsecondplaced Moorings 41.3 unbeatable, withbulletsforallherraces,followedbythe on too muchtacking(whichIknowfrompersonalexperience allow thesegracefulbeautiestostretchtheirwingswithout third. Longerreachingcourseswerespeciallyincludedto and anearT-bonebetween long keel). Alfred Mylnecutter, tory. ThirdwasMikeBingley’sBeneteau38, bigger boatsacrossthelineandtookawell-deservedvic- —Continuedonnextpage help andnoseriouspersonalinjurywasinvolved. able tocontrolthesituationinaseamanlikemannerwithout diately toofferassistance,butthe the lastday.Oneofmarkboatswastherealmostimme- Unfortunately themastonJ/125 few protestsandthesewereresolvedwithoutgoingtojury. J/24, well, buthadtotakesecondplaceRobbieYearwood’s team ontheAlbinStratus36 Despite some close encounters on the Cruising 2 start line, Despite somecloseencountersontheCruising2startline, In FunClass,ChristianNelias’Baltic42, In thenewlyintroducedClassicClass,1930-launched Desiderata Island WaterWorldDieHard, , anAldenketchskipperedbyStuartArmstrong, Luzula isnoeasytaskwithlotsofbigsailsanda Kea Savvy , skippered by David Empson, second and , skipperedbyDavidEmpson,secondand , skippered by Armando Guilarte, third. , skipperedbyArmandoGuilarte,third. The BluePeter , skipperedbyDannyDonelan,was Dingo and Apero Eagles’ Wings , skipperedbyMathew whichfrequentlybeat Eagles’ Wings Category 5 sailed consistently Tuleichean II. Tropical, , there were , therewere crew was crewwas broke on broke on was was

MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 able service sirable cruising

get acquainted in Cruising 2 Done Talkin’ and Bloody Mary The Grenada Tourism Authority was also a major sponsor. The Hon. Alexandra The Grenada Tourism Authority was also a major sponsor. For full results and more information visit www.grenadasailingweek.com. Sailing, Grenada Marine, L’Anse Aux Epines Cottages, Palm Tree Marine, Island Cottages, Palm Tree Marine, L’Anse Aux Epines Sailing, Grenada more service Ventures, X-Marine and many Management, Flying Fish Dreams Yacht of the prizes All the trophies and some prize sponsors contributed. providers and in Grenada. were manufactured Otway-Noel, Minister of Tourism, Civil Aviation & Culture, who found the time to Otway-Noel, Minister of Tourism, Civil Aviation & Culture, same week Grenada celebrat- attend the awards evening, despite the fact that in the she said, “This regatta is ed its 40th year of Independence, expressed it well when fun you are also making public-private partnership perfection. While you are having please have more fun!” a significant contribution to the Grenada economy — shone in GSW’s newly introduced Classic Class shone in GSW’s newly introduced

Below: John Holmberg won the Lay Day’s Hobie Cat Match Racing Below: John Holmberg won the Lay Day’s Hobie Cat ALL PHOTOS: DEREK PICKELL Above: for the

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YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM DYT MARTINIQUE DYT MARTINIQUE T DYT Yacht Transport is the world’s premier yacht logistics company, offering hassle-free yacht transport to the world’s most de yacht transport to the world’s hassle-free offering yacht logistics company, premier is the world’s Transport DYT Yacht YOUR YACHT playgrounds. Our goal is to make your yacht shipping experience as smooth and simple as possible, while offering you the unbeat is to make your yacht shipping experience as smooth and simple as possible, while offering Our goal playgrounds. you deserve. Why not choose Continued from previous page Continued from Grenada’s flagship Camper & Nicholsons Port Louis Marina with its sophisticated Port Louis Marina with its Camper & Nicholsons Grenada’s flagship For this 2014 edition, the GSW Board took the bold step of holding the regatta at the bold step of holding edition, the GSW Board took For this 2014 Title sponsor Island Water World provided strong support, putting funding and Title sponsor Island Water World provided strong support, On the Monday it was back down to Prickly Bay for the final two days of south On the Monday it was back down to Prickly Bay for On the Sunday’s Lay Day, Hobie Cat Match Racing organized by the Petite Hobie Cat Match Racing organized by the Petite On the Sunday’s Lay Day, Saturday’s Sea Hawk Paints Race Day started off in Grand Anse, and then took theSaturday’s Sea Hawk Paints megayacht facility in the historic port of St. George’s was an ideal start point St. George’s was an ideal start in the historic port of megayacht facility three different host venues, with the intention of showcasing Grenada’s excellent of showcasing Grenada’s host venues, with the intention three different for organizers While logistically challenging and stunning coastline. marine facilities very rewarding, boats, this was also the more than 30 participating and racers on of Grenada being introduced to new facets number of competitors with a surprising the variety own special ambience, creating Each venue had its for the first time. It Up in Grenada!” GSW 2014 tag line: “Spice promised in the — effort into the event. In addition to sponsors already mentioned, Mount Cinnamon, effort into the event. In addition to sponsors already Yacht Charter, Bluewater Turbulence, Doyle Caribbean, 10 Saints Beer, Dream coast racing. Having separate start and finish boats ensured that as classes finished coast racing. Having separate start and finish boats ensured around. Sailors loved the they could start their next race without having to hang Bay Marina went all out laid-back outdoor atmosphere at the Tiki Bar, and Prickly and roll bands, Fire Dancers, with their entertainment. Steel pan, reggae ’n’ rock a truly grand finale. Tivoli Drummers and spectacular fireworks made for same disappearing-start-flag system used by the America’s Cup (we think for the same disappearing-start-flag system used by the America’s increasingly tight with John first time in the Caribbean) the rounds of racing got champions, Mike Bingley. Holmberg finally beating one of Grenada’s match racing of Le Phare Bleu Marina’s Later, a Dinghy Concert out on the water, the brainchild musical experience. owner, Dieter Burkhalter, provided a unique Grenadian Calivigny Yacht Club gave crew who would be skippers, and perhaps skippers who crew who would be skippers, and perhaps skippers who Calivigny Yacht Club gave the a chance to show their individual skills. Using were tired of dealing with crew, boats around Point Salines up to Le Phare Bleu Marina with its Boutique Hotel set inup to Le Phare Bleu Marina with its Boutique Hotel set boats around Point Salines dot- stronger current, harder wind and deeper water a tropical garden. On this stretch, interesting challenges for racers, not to mention markted with shoals and reefs created a resilient lot and most arrived at the pirate party suitablylayers. However sailors are pirate costumes spiced up traditional sea shanties withtogged out. Singers in sexy energy and from then on the dancing never stopped. typical Caribbean passion and skippers’ briefing and welcome party, with pan band and DJ setting the tempo.skippers’ briefing and welcome rac- Day in flat water off Grand Anse eased sailors into Friday’s Mount Gay Rum Race Port lots of energy for the ever-popular Red Cap Party at ing mode, leaving them with that night. Louis’s Victory Bar and Restaurant MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 you laststrollthroughPhillipsburgandtakeinsightssuchasthestatelysymmetryofCourthouseitssettingpalms? A visittoSt.Maartenofteninvolvesamadroundofboatrepairs,maintenanceandsearchesforpartssupplies.Whendid And SeeItfor the First Very Time: Visit Your Favorite Anchorage —

ST. MAARTEN WIKIMEDIA by FrankVirgintino —Continuedonnextpage front atMarigot.) It issaidthatshelovedtovisitthewater- at theageof93inSpeightstown,Barbados. walk by.(ShewasborninFrancebutdied rosé, youmightevenseeClaudetteColbert imagination, whileyousipyourPernodor so veryFrench?IfyouhaveaWalterMitty sais quoi French, andwhocoulddefinethat busy andindustrious.Theothersideis sonality. OnesideisthoroughlyDutch, French side,wellyouknow— sides oftheisland.However,thoseon rants onboththeDutchandFrench for daysonend.Andthenaretherestau- can keepthosewholovetoshopentertained Phillipsburg: anabundanceofstoresthat around. Thenthereisshoppingin you canspenddaysinthemwandering marine supplystoressowellstockedthat the skipper,therearerepairfacilitiesand three majorattractionsinSt.Maarten.For anchorage ormarinaandsettlein. anchor intheinnerharbor? above? Willthereberoomformeto with allthespectatorswatchingfrom through andbouncemeoffthebridge easily? Willthecurrentpushmegoing through thebridges.WillIgetintoline channel thatcantakesixfeetofdraft). through thebridgeatthatsideleadstoa water ismuchcleaner.Theentrance where itisalmostalwayscalmandthe you gettoanchorinMarigot/NettleBay choose togointhroughtheFrenchside, managed agoodnight’ssleep.(Ifyou was nottoorollyduringthenightandyou Hopefully theanchorageatSimpsonBay the lagoonthroughbackdoor. go aroundtoMarigotBayandcomeinto Bay forthebridgetoopenorperhapsyou St. Maarten/St.Martinhasasplitper- Most cruiserswilltellyouthatthereare Once inside,youheadforyourfavorite There isalwayssomeanxietygoing You waitpatientlyanchoredinSimpson qualitybeyondsayingthatitis oo-la-la ! je ne MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19

WIKIMEDIA It is also easy to overlook Marigot, the capital of the French side of the island, other of the French side of the to overlook Marigot, the capital It is also easy The abundance of stores in Phillipsburg can keep those who love to shop entertained The abundance of stores in Phillipsburg can keep those for days on end — there’s more here than ‘deck jewelry’ (424 metres). Ask most cruisers what it is and they have no idea. The facility, which is and they have no idea. The Ask most cruisers what it (424 metres). as an eco- what can be best described a sugar plantation, has become was formerly facilities make and flora and even food trails, zip lining, great gardens retreat. Nature Children are welcome. this a big attraction. than that, There is much more to Marigot restaurants and the stores. than to see the place on the The market in Marigot takes desire to invest the time. if you have a front of the West Indies Mall. Fort Saint Louis, in waterfront beneath next page —Continued on Continued from previous page Continued from Loterie Farm is located at the foot of Pic Paradis, the highest point on St. Maarten Loterie Farm is located at the foot of Pic Paradis, the Many cruisers overlook the bay at the northwest It seems to me that many who sail the Lesser It seems to me that many I was doing exactly what he said when I was day- I was doing exactly what he “All men dream; but not equally. Those who dream Those who dream “All men dream; but not equally. To really see something as if for the first time, it is necessary to become conscious. time, it is necessary to become as if for the first To really see something As with so many good things in life, we begin to take a favorite place for granted begin to take a favorite place good things in life, we As with so many corner of the island, Grand Case, which in itself can corner of the island, Grand Case, which in itself can be a very reasonable anchorage if there is no north- erly component in the wind. The town is considered by many to be the culinary capital of the Caribbean. The restaurants are wonderful and I have never had a bad meal there. You can also stroll along the Boulevard de Grand Case. Do it with the one you love or with the one that you want to love and you will find it intoxicating, especially on a full moon night. If you definite antidote to the stress- do nothing else while you are there, do this, as it is a and the end of March and es of modern day life. Do it on a Tuesday between January filled with street vendors and you get Harmony Nights as an added extra: the street the sound of music. Antilles are in a rush to get down south. Perhaps they Antilles are in a rush to get Rushing never sup- have friends waiting in Grenada. a great deal gets over- ports the art of cruising and no question that you can looked as a result. There is or some broken gear get some parts in St. Maarten Also, there is no question repaired, and do so easily. drop in Phillipsburg. And that one can shop until they waterside boardwalk in of course walk along the to see St. Maarten for Marigot. If, however, you want so much more to this very the very first time, there is sophisticated island that you can see and do. You simply need to take your time. Give yourself two weeks for the short course or apply for residency and take the long course! dreaming of Claudette Colbert walking by focusing on dreaming of Claudette Colbert hers, before my wife whatever female forms resembled what you are up to!” poked me and said, “I know by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake of their minds wake by night in the dusty recesses vanity; but the dream- in the day to find that it was men, for they may act ers of the day are dangerous to make it possible.” their dreams with open eyes, To do that you must remove from your mindset all of what has been filed away. That all of what has been must remove from your mindset To do that you Arabia, has some know as Lawrence of TE Lawrence, whom many is not easily done. to approach it: advice on how and allow our past experiences to define our current ones. I guess that if you want our current ones. I guess past experiences to define and allow our you can do: that is one of the first things for the very first time, to see St. Maarten one that is also with two personalities and all, this is a magic island daydream. After dreaming, nothing will. If that does not get you a duty-free zone. — MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 is settingwithyoursignificantother, the viewis360degreesofpanoramaandwellworthit.Ifyouaretherewhensun climb upthestepscanraisequestion,isitworthit?However,onceattop, morning; ifyouareafishlover,donotsleeplate. Saturday: thetempoishigher.Freshfishdeliveredtomarketearlyin — area filledwithfloraandnumeroustypesofwildlife. owing toitssizeandcomplexity.Itiswellworthyourtimeinvestigatethisrugged both wetanddry.Itwilltakeyearsperhapsgenerationstodevelopthereserve, way, itwouldbeamuchbetterworld. will leaveyoutoresearchforyourself.Ifallcountriesestablishedtheirbordersthis the borderwasestablishedisamatteroflegendbutveryinterestingone,whichI commitment tofreetradebetweentheDutchandFrenchsidesofisland.How marks thenon-policedborderbetweentwocountries.Italsocommemoratestheir located atMountConcordiabetweenColeBayandMarigot.Itisdated1648 your notice. to blackfemalesintheCaribbeanarenoteasycomebyandthisoneisworth woman” stonestatuethatcommemoratesblackfemalemarketvendors.Tributes Street, whereyoucanlocatetheoldprison,nowclosedandnolongerinuse. that youcanusetojustifythecostofcruising.Astone’sthrowawayisPerrinon museum orthebest,butenoughtogiveyousomebackgroundaboutSt.Maarten Alongside thechurchanduphillisMuseumofArawak,notbiggest Fort LouisisalsoinMarigotandnotyourrun-of-the-millfortattraction.The Thereareartsandcrafts,spicesotherdelights.Thebestdaytoattendis The northeasternpartoftheislandislocationaverylargenaturereserve, Other sculpturesaretheborderobelisks.Theretwoofthem;mainoneis If youlikesculpture,inthiscaselargeMarigothasthe“market From theFort,asyouwalktowardssea,willseeCatholicChurch. Continued frompreviouspage oo-la-la

again! MIKE SCHINKEL MIKE finest collectionsofexoticparrotsintheCaribbean,andtheyareasighttobehold. to whichIreply,“Whynot?Youmaybepleasantlysurprised!”Theyhaveoneofthe the replyis,“IdidnotsailallwaytoCaribbeanseeazooinSt.Maarten,” that fewvisitorsareawareof.SometimeswhenImentionSt.Maartenhasazoo, http://freecruisingguides.com. time toseeSt.Maartenfortheveryfirsttime. what isdiscussedinthisarticle,frombutterflyfarmstoponytrekking.Investthe sistently hightouristratings. room withafewbrokenpiecesoffurniture,thinkagain,asthismuseumgetscon- spending sometimeherewouldbeverymuchworthit.Ifyou’rethinkingofadusty walk rightonby.Theartifactslocatedherecovermorethantwomillenniaand the capitalofDutchside.Themuseumissomodest-lookingthatmostpeople VIRGINTINO Left: ThehistoricFrenchFortLouisoverlookingMarigotprovidesmemorableviews There isazoolocatedonArchRoadthenorthsideofSaltPond(Dutchside) Frank VirgintinoistheauthorofFreeCruisingGuides, All ofSt.Maarten,regardlesswhichflagisflying,hasmuchtoexplorebeyond There isalsotheSt.MaartenMuseumlocatedonFrontStreet7inPhillipsburg, Above: Therearemacawsatthezoo;whoknew? MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 Anchorage at Cartagena is a licensed (200 tons) Yacht S/V Blue Wind by Alexandra Trachsel by Alexandra

Fair winds, blue skies! Alexandra Trachsel of the Tayana 37 Only use registered agents to clear the boat in and out of the country. The process Coming into the northern bay entrance of Cartagena, do not forget to aim for the If you are planning to have any work done that involves cleaning with acetone, do We installed our new Hydrovane in Pesquera Santa Clara, the mangrove back- Boating or not, if one is fond of pretty things, Old Cartagena, in its splendid Santa Marta has a good and rather new marina, for decent prices (although you Santa Marta has a good and rather new marina, for In one of the five bays of Tayrona National Park, just north of Santa Marta, and in In one of the five bays of Tayrona National Park, just Do not miss Cabo Vela anchorage, especially if you kite surf. It is very windy here, Do not miss Cabo Vela anchorage, especially if you kite When you decide to leave Aruba in your wake, watch your weather window care- When you decide to leave Aruba in your wake, watch Aruba is as dry and windy as Bonaire, but not as nice. But if you are looking for a Aruba is as dry and windy as Bonaire, but not as nice. I cannot say anything about Curaçao, because we gave the island a miss upon the I cannot say anything about Curaçao, because we gave Go to Bonaire, where anchoring is strictly prohibited, pick up a mooring buoy, and is strictly prohibited, pick up a mooring buoy, and Go to Bonaire, where anchoring Avoid Venezuela. Some say it is still safe, but last year’s cold-blooded murder of yet it is still safe, but last year’s cold-blooded murder of yet Avoid Venezuela. Some say Maybe you have had enough of overcrowded anchorages or appallingly skippered boats anchorages or appallingly had enough of overcrowded Maybe you have Willing to Head West? to Head Willing is here unfortunately not as cheap, quick and easy as Martinique and Guadeloupe, but Customs will give you a year and Immigration three months without any problem. middle buoys, to avoid running aground on the submerged “city” walls. Inside the bay, watch for container and cruise ships — the traffic there is constant. not forget to bring it with you, as this volatile substance is nowhere to be found in Colombia, for obvious reasons. Rather finish your work in the Eastern Caribbean or Aruba, because supplies are limited in choice in Colombia, and prices rather high. However, you will find very good gelcoat, stainless and wood work in Cartagena. street’s industrial and floating boat graveyard. I have to admit that the neighborhood is a tad rundown, but it is about the only sort-of-quiet place (in terms of traffic and water displacement) where one can drill holes in the hull near the waterline without sinking the boat. Spanish colonial style, and even though already damaged by mass tourism, is defi- nitely worth seeing — like all main cities, especially by night. If you are a pizza afi- cionado, do not miss La Diva, in the old town: you will not get a better one, even in Naples, Italy! Also worth going to is the Sofitel restaurant, bar and courtyard named “1621”, after the year of creation of the convent it occupies. (You will find the rem- nants of Mother Superior in the bar’s cellar!) Captain and Divemaster. should not expect to find marine-grade parts or have any boatwork done), unlike should not expect to find marine-grade parts or have the exclusive Muelle Turistico Cartagena, where you either pay through your nose in (where you do not dock without pre-approved arrangements) or the snobbish Club de Pesca, or you experience a not-so-convenient bumpy Floridian-type of slip in Club Náutico (not so great for canoe-sterned boats). At Club Náutico — the only safe place to dock the dinghy — the weekly fee will be 58,000 Colombian pesos (US$30) for water and garbage service. In all cases, everybody will float here in the same dirty, nasty, murky waters, collecting a poo-colored waterline and an impressive number of barnacles. Punta Hermosa (Puerto Velero), where you find a marina again, we were alone at Punta Hermosa (Puerto Velero), where you find a marina serious williwaw winds at anchor, with nobody bothering us. Tayrona Park has the anchoring is shallow, the night, which is not the case of Punta Hermosa, where holding ground good and kite surfing is a must. but no big deal: the bay is huge, wide open, shallow, and empty except for fishing but no big deal: the bay is huge, wide open, shallow, at anchor here, we saw no one nets left overnight by the local Indians. In three days by, one derelict boat and a except for a few curious but harmless fishermen cruising Nacional) came to ask us what few kites. On the third day, the coast guard (Armada they laughed. Quick, routine we were doing in Cabo Vela. We said we were sleeping; control; no trouble. fully, because Cabo Vela is not only a cape, its average depth is quite shallow. Better fully, because Cabo Vela is not only a cape, its average arrive in Colombia with two to stay at the bar than leave in gale force conditions and sails and a dinghy blown away! theft-free and hurricane-safe shipyard (such as Varadero Caribe), and easy flying to theft-free and hurricane-safe shipyard (such as Varadero in Aruba. The shipyard is a the USA or Europe, you might want to make landing to help, and it is located work in progress, but the people there are nice and willing jams. At the gate, you will be five minutes away from your plane, with zero traffic and bananas, and do not greeted by many iguanas. Don’t forget to bring them apples a bit of luck, your boat will be fear: they are little gluttons, but have no teeth! With will have your very own St. parked stern to the airport runway fence, and you beware: the addictive smell of Maarten runway beach bar in your cockpit. (Skydivers avgas is constant here!) recommendation of a fellow Dutch cruising couple: we were told Curaçao was “way recommendation of a fellow Dutch cruising couple: we too Dutch” for them! enjoy a peaceful and relaxing night dive straight off the of your boat. Mr. night dive straight off the transom of your boat. enjoy a peaceful and relaxing between your legs while stalking fish in the beam of your and Mrs. Tarpon will swim south of the island, one of the dive light. If you kite surf, Bonaire will give you, in the lush scenery here. Instead, best spots in the Caribbean. Do not expect green and on the pier near the Customs Bonaire will give you a taste of desert weather. Stop tequila) while admiring your and Immigration office, and enjoy a Tekibon (Bonaire caves that host bats and boat in the sunset. Bonaire also has underground water you can in the donkey sanctu- other critters not as cuddly. Buy as many carrots as remember for a long time! The ary; the donkeys will give you a funny chase you will fee that cannot, as yet, be only downside of the island is the US$10 per day mooring cut down for long-term stay. another cruising aficionado has confirmed my gut feeling that the country is a wel- has confirmed my gut feeling that the country is a another cruising aficionado with suicidal tendencies. coming place for individuals dragging their anchor on your bow at sweet midnight. Are you willing to head west? midnight. Are you willing anchor on your bow at sweet dragging their MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22

ALL PHOTOS: SALLY ERDLE ers blamed bad weather for preventing many from getting to the starting line at ers blamedbadweatherforpreventingmanyfromgettingtothestartingline at winds. ThelargestGranPrixfleettodatewas42boatsin2001,butthisyearorganiz- atypical conditionsthatrangedfromgalestocalms,andnorthwestsoutheast cially sweetafterachallenging3,600-milenon-stopoceanpassage.Theyexperienced the marinahasreportedoccupancyofupto70percent. 256 slipsoccupied.Lastmonthmorethanathirdofthewerefilledandsofar Colombia’s two-year-oldMarinaSantaMarta. early FebruaryafteraJanuary4thstartfromtheCanaryIslands,werewelcomedat Martinique (twice).Thisyear’sarrivals,crossingthefinishlineinlateJanuaryand Rico; Havana,Cuba;SantoDomingo,theDominicanRepublic(twice);andLeMarin, Caribbean everyotheryearsince1995.PreviousfinisheswereinSanJuan,Puerto with amodernmarinaandanabundanceofattractions,worthynewdestination. sions.” MeanwhilecruisersarefindingthishistoricCaribbeanseasidetown,equipped and diving,IwanttoshareColombia’swaterswithvisitorswhothesepas- She tells Colombia’s DeputyMinisterofTourism,SandraHowardTaylor,hailsfromProvidencia. Caribbean seacoast—ispositioningitselftobeaplayerinregionalyachtingtourism. fourth-largest economyinSouthAmerica,with1,584miles(2,549kilometres)of — atlantic yachtraceatSantaMarta,Colombiawasapotentsignthatthiscountry—the William Shakespeare

[email protected] www.barefootyachts For thefewbuthardyparticipantsinGranPrixdelAtlantico2014,arrivalwasespe- Gran PrixdelAtlantico2014 Marina SantaMartawasofficiallyopenedinDecember2011withjusttwoofits The GranPrixdelAtlanticoisayachtracethathasrunfromSpaintothe The localmediaattentionandofficialwelcomegiventolastmonth’sfinishofatrans- Which takenattheflood,leadsontofortune… There isatideintheaffairsofmen, Since 1984 BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL ‘ST. SOMEWHERE’ NEWEST THE Santa Marta, Colombia: Compass readers, “I’m from a Caribbean island. I love the sea, sailing, boating readers,“I’mfromaCaribbeanisland.Ilovethesea,sailing,boating

Tel.1-784-456-9526 /93349144Fax.1-784-456-9238 POBox39, BlueLagoon,StVincent,WestIndies eil etl •Soes •AirTravel •HotelReservations •Moorings •Boutique •BookExchange •SurftechSurf Shop •Diesel&Propane •Restaurant &Bar •Wi-Fi/InternetCafé •Showers •Laundry • On-siteAccommodation • QuiksilverSurfWear •RefrigerationWork • IslandTours •FibreglassRepairs • Ice&Water •RaymarineElectronics • VehicleRentals • Mechanical&ElectricalRepairs • DoyleSailLoft&CanvasShop Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters —Continuedonnextpage Solitaire duFigaro“whenIwasyounger”,andthishisninthtransatlantic. they don’tknowhowtocook!”EnriquehascompetedintheFrenchsingle-handed although hiscrewwas“stupendous”,hedidthecooking:“Youngpeoplecaneat,but crew arestrongyoungmenwhohavebeensailingsincechildhood.”Headdsthat “We areracers.Mostoftheothersfamilyboats.Ourintentwasspeed.Thesix 20 minutesand45seconds.Enriquesaysthekeyfactorinhisfastpassagewasthat passage betweenMarinaRubicónandSantaMartain24days,fourhours, so theybacktrackeduntilconditionsimproved.Nevertheless,madethenon-stop day underbarepoles,movingatsevenknots.Thosewindswerefromthenorthwest, Best Skipper Skipper Marta’s appreciationoftheinherentimportanceinternationalsailingevents. ning skipper,EnriqueCurt,wasgiven“thekeystothecity”,anindicationofSanta media attentionandraisepublicawareness.Acelebrationwasheldinwhichthewin- tigious enough—itshonorarypresidentisKingJuanCarlosIofSpaintogarner petitors endedtheirraceonthoseislandstodealwithrepairsormedicalproblems. the racecoursewaschannelbetweenSt.LuciaandMartinique,othercom- object, andthecrewwasrescuedbyavesselboundforAntigua.Theonly“gate”on started late.Tendaysaftertheofficialstart,oneboatsankhittinganunidentified whittled downtoafleetofsevenboatsthatmadethescheduledstart.Afewothers Lanzarote, CanaryIslands.Anoptimisticpre-registrationlistof35wasultimately the timeforyachttourism,andcityofSantaMartashowcaseswhat’spossible With nearly1,600milesofCaribbeancoastline,Colombiahasdecidedthatnowis Line honorsintheeighth“GranPrix”wenttoSpanishHanse461 Ultimately, onlyfour“GranPrix”boatsreachedSantaMarta.Yettheeventwaspres- . CaptainEnriqueCurtsaysthatinmid-Atlantic,windsweresohigh (namedfortwooftheCurtpublishingcompany’smagazines)spenta .com The Best The MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 leave their Conari Fuel Dock Car Rental Service 24hrs security 110/220 A/C Power Services Provisioning buses, and al fresco seating for chiva , cruisers Ineke and Mike of Beach Bar & Restaurant Service Taxi / Showers Bathrooms Charter Services Wifi Open Free St. Vincent & the Grenadines St. Mini Mart Laundry Service Book Exchange Shop Sail Loft/Canvas Restaurant Black Pearl Downsides are occasional noisy parties at night (“but it’s happy noise”) and the fact Downsides are occasional noisy parties at night (“but it’s lanes, but fierce winds It is possible to anchor in the wide bay, outside the shipping Destination Santa Marta “a complete surprise”. More than one cruiser has described Santa Marta as in 1525, Santa Marta lays Founded as a seaport for the Spanish treasure fleets A few steps from the marina is a waterfront avenue whose broad sidewalk provides that the water in the marina — in fact, in the whole city — is currently not potable, that the water in the marina — in fact, in the whole city Hopefully this will soon be reportedly owing to problems at the filtration plant. are required to use an agent, resolved. Clearing in is currently expensive, as yachts to act as a clearance but as this is being written, the marina is waiting for permission fee. agent so their clients won’t have to pay the US$100 agent’s night, and although it made can spring up. One cruiser said, “We had 37 knots one wouldn’t drag” — she recom- the boat heel over we were glad we were in a slip so we mends not leaving anchored boats unattended. the harbor of Cartagena, claim to being the oldest city in . But soon, bay, became the major colo- being more easily defensible than Santa Marta’s broad seaside holiday town nial port. Today, Santa Marta is better known as a laid-back plus a whiff of Colombia’s with a historic quarter and the usual modern amenities, touristy and gentrified — magical realism. Unlike the more famous — and more Cartagena, this city of 500,000 is very much itself. spots for snack vendors, a stop for the colorful in Santa Marta. This breeze deserves special mention. It is something all Santa special mention. It is something This breeze deserves in Santa Marta. of Santa Marta refreshing climate. The bay of, and indeed it creates a Marta is proud on their way facing west. The tradewinds, 11°14’48”N, 74°13’00, is at approximately Sierra Nevada and then the snow-capped the dry Guajira Peninsula there, pass over off this range. (Sailing 15 to 20 kilometres world’s highest coastal mountains, the peaks of can often see the snow-capped in the early morning, you tropical coast it has been breeze arrives (often strongly) Bolívar.) By the time the Colón and Simón rust are rare here. and humidity. Mildew and purged of salt a variety of restaurants. —Continued on next page Dockage per foot per day: Monohull $0.74 Catamaran US$1.11 flat rate: US$12.88 Water Electricity flat rate per day: US$9.20 Gasoline and Diesel are available dockside at the government regulated price MARINA RATES: MARINA says that the marina is “brilliant. Conari

VHF: 16 / 68 VHF: Free Rum Punch for all arriving boats! arriving all for Punch Rum Free Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina Blue Lagoon Sunsail Marine Center) (Formerly Nestled in the quiet waters in Ratho Mill, of Blue Lagoon Vincent & the Grenadines St. 1 784 458 4308 | Tel: Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina Continued from previous page Continued from English long-time cruiser Mike Davies on The marina is a consumer-driven work in progress — clients are asked what they The marina is a consumer-driven work in progress — Mike’s wife, Ineke, adds that owing to the constant breeze there are no mosquitoes Marina Santa Marta Marina Santa Manuel Dávila brainchild of native son Marta is very much the Marina Santa The captain plans to enjoy Colombia until April, then sail direct to the Dominican April, then sail direct to to enjoy Colombia until The captain plans The Gran Prix del Atlantico was a family affair for Captain Curt: his son, also affair for Captain Curt: del Atlantico was a family The Gran Prix boat in the marina to explore inland would like to see added. (Cruisers are even providing advice on making the clearance would like to see added. (Cruisers are even providing advice two slips were assigned forms easier to understand.) Safety being a primary concern, are permanently based there. to the Coast Guard, and two Coast Guard runabouts and a haulout facility with A fuel dock with gas and diesel is a recent addition, spaces for ancillary services 60-ton travelift is currently under construction, as are is also in the works. such as engine, sail and fiberglass repair. A chandlery ic sugar and palm oil. Being in a location out of the hurricane belt and convenient ic sugar and palm oil. Being in a location out of the were no doubt factors in as a staging point for boats heading for the Panama Canal in his home town, but his decision to create an international-standard marina family owns the commercial Manuel says, “Really, I just love boats.” Although his for recreational vessels. First port, there were formerly no facilities at Santa Marta Republic, Manuel pro- inspired by the marina at Casa de Campo in the Dominican travels and then worked ceeded to study marinas worldwide during his business the banks wouldn’t provide a closely with professionals to design this marina. When was”), he found investors, got loan (“At that time, they didn’t know what a marina it”) and built the marina right planning permission (“They never thought I’d really do in front of his parents’ shoreside house. It’s not only an oasis in a very rough stretch of ocean, but the rates are competitive, it’s really yachtie-friendly, and it’s a good base for visiting Cartagena or exploring the surrounding countryside — or even all of South America.” At left, Colombian Coast Guard boats escort a Gran Prix del Atlantico racer past El Morro island into Santa Marta Bay. At right At left, Colombian Coast Guard boats escort a Gran Prix Abondano, executive president of a Colombian group of companies producing organ- group of companies president of a Colombian Abondano, executive Republic, from there to the Virgin Islands, and then home to Spain. there to the Virgin Islands, Republic, from named Enrique, is the event’s organizer. named Enrique, — MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 sidewalk bar),andthesupplyofmeat,fruitvegetablesisgood.Seafoodbeef city, andwherevisitorsarewelcomed.” “The marinaisoneoftheimportantfocalpointsthatincreasesstrength involving bothColombiansandforeigners,givingthecityaninternationalair. “Santa Martaexperiencedanexplosionofinvestmentin2013andit’sonlystarting,” and anattitudeofoptimisticprogress. poverty andyou’llsee lar placetogatherintheeveningforadrink,mealorjuststroll. seedy no-goarea.Nowclean,welllitandhometoseveralgoodbistros,itisapopu- A fewyearsagoElParquedeNovios(Sweethearts’Park),inthecitycenter,wasa chic restaurantsandtinyboutiquehotels),fadedoldbuildingsyearnforrestoration. handicraft vendors,parksandplazas.Betweentheirrecentlyrenovatedsisters(now and 18thcenturytownhouses,whereyou’llfindcafésshops,cathedrals — Cruisers inSantaMartareportthatbeerischeap(theequivalentofUS$1ata In thelocal Sundays arequiet,buttherestofweekSantaMartaisvibrant.Yes,there Spreading inlandisagridofnarrowstreetslinedwithSpanishcolonialbuildings Continued frompreviouspage Caribe Explora gaminos, magazine,editorLucasEcheverriRobladowrites: or homelessboys,butthereisalsolivelycommerce Liberator, SimónBolívar,whodiedthere Left: AstatueatQuintadeSanPedroAlejandrinoofSouthAmerica’svenerated Above: TheoldestchurchinSantaMarta,SanJerónimodeMamatoco,wasbuilt1787 Top: Chivabusesareafunwaytogetaround—rideoftenturnsintoparty 1972. Thewoodenstructuresarelonggone, buttheintriguingstoneterracesremain. site, believedtohavebeenabandonedduring theSpanishconquest,wasrediscoveredin perched on169terracescarvedintoasteep, remoteSierraNevadamountainside.The before thebetter-knownsettlementatMachu Picchu,anotherancientcitywasbuilt, a three-dayhikeoutfortheveryfit,orenough pesosforahelicopterride.Some650years for or atAracataca—thebirthplaceofGabriel GarcíaMárquezandthesupposedsetting Marta thesameday.Tripstostayanight ortwointhehipmountainvillageofMinca, Panama, Venezuela,Bolivia,EcuadorandPerufromtheSpanishEmpire. Americans holdtheLiberatorwhofreedwhatarenowcountriesofColombia, not onlyintoavanishedlifestyle,butalsoappreciatethereverenceinwhichSouth and rumproducingslaveestatewhereSimónBolívardiedin1830.You’llgaininsight ing fromdrycoastalareastodeepjunglesnow-toppedmountains.” ist CarlosSocarrás.“Thereishistory,culture,andarichnaturalenvironmentrang- activities andplacestovisitwithoutrepetition,”sayslocalnauticaltourismspecial- Cruisers friendly, openandattentivepeople.” important thingisthemindsetofpeople.InallmytravelsI’venevermetmore for 30years,andthisisthebestplaceI’veseeninmylife.It’saIlove;most now heandYamilé,aboard South Americabymotorbike,returnedboatin1996toanchorthebay, and pier thatwestopped—itwasabonustothewholetrip.” vices, suchasmachineshops.SantaMartawasahugesurprise.Icouldn’tbehap- adds, “It’searlydaysasacruisingdestination,butyoucanfindthenecessaryser- that oncehewasvirtuallyledbythehandfromwrongplacetorightone.He something atthemarina,peopleintowngooutoftheirwaytohelpyou,”noting here fiveorsixdayssofar,andcouldn’thavehadanicertime.Ifyoucan’tfind make “boatcalls”atthemarina. topping uponfreshgroceriesinSantaMarta. bakery, Canoa,onCalle18.CruisersadvisestockingupstaplesinAruba,and more.) Ifyouhaven’tdevelopedatasteforthesweetishlocalbread,tryFrench city shouldbefamousforitsfreshfruitsmoothiesalone.(Colombiancoffee?Sayno are firstrate.RestaurantpricessimilartothoseintheEasternCaribbean.The To gettoCiudadPerdida,theLostCity,however, meansathree-orfour-dayhikeinand You cangettothefunkydiver/backpackersceneatTagangaandbackSanta On theoutskirtsoftown,visitQuintadeSanPedroAlejandrino,formersugar “Within averycompactradiusaroundSantaMartathereiswideportfolio of Surrounding SantaMarta Don’t expectmanypeopletospeakEnglish,butgrabyourcopyof French cruiserLionelsayshefirstvisitedSantaMartain1992whileridingaround British cruiserJohnontheRival38 Medical care,includingdentistry,isgoodandinexpensive,somedoctorswill One HundredYearsofSolitude , tryafewwords,andpeoplewillbehappytohelp. Rebelle, —canbedonebybusorcollectivetaxi. areensconcedinthemarina.“I’vebeentraveling Kika , boundforNewZealand,says,“I’vebeen —Continued onnextpage Spanish for MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 read- , says, “We left , says, “We left Compass Freevol for fixing my shoe. magazine: “We believe there are Conari . , circumnavigating with her husband, Ulf,, circumnavigating with her Meri Tuuli S/V Tashtego Soundings Trade Only Continued from previous page Continued from For Santa Marta as a burgeoning sailing destination, the finish line of the For Santa Marta as a burgeoning sailing destination, www.cioh.org.co/files/ The cruising guide to Colombia is available free at For more information on the Gran Prix del Atlantico visit www.granprixdelatlantico. on page 5. For more information on IGY Marina Santa Marta see ad Many thanks to Manuel and the Davila family for your gracious hospitality; to Many cruisers at Marina Santa Marta mention that one of their prime reasons that one of their prime at Marina Santa Marta mention Many cruisers on the Ovni 43 with Bernard Régine, circumnavigating There are anchorages with sandy beaches near Santa Marta at Taganga and There are anchorages with The Safety Question German cruiser Mickaela on throughout the country, Colombia went from receiv- Thanks to improved security Commander Jesús González tells Colombian Coast Guard Lt. come here.” Mickaela says, “We will recommend to every sailor to Riding the Rising Tide by word of mouth,While cruisers are spreading the news about Santa Marta and Tourism, Santiago According to Colombia’s Minister of Trade, Industry, cruising guide (see foot- Colombia has also been proactive in producing a free Gran Prix del Atlantico could be just the starting gun. Chart updates are Doc/Guia_Nautica_Turistica_de_Colombia_optimized.pdf. (There’s rumored to be available at www.cioh.org.co “Avisos a los navegantes”. one, although charts are a version in English but we could only find the Spanish of course the same.) com. Mauricio for everything; to Diana I and Diana II, Jonathan, and the rest of the staff at Marina Santa Marta for making my visit so enjoyable; to Stewart for safe land- ings; and to all the cruisers and officials who generously gave their time to talk. Kudos to La Casa del Farol in Santa Marta and Anandá in Cartagena. And finally, special thanks to Mike and Ineke on to visit Colombia was to see the famous walled city of Old Cartagena, a UNESCO city of Old Cartagena, was to see the famous walled to visit Colombia Facilities to take their boats there. Site — but they didn’t want World Heritage growth the harbor fosters bottom for visiting yachts are limited, in Cartagena yachts. can be a problem for anchored and ferry wakes — peace of to see Cartagena with Marta because we wanted the boat at Santa and the Santa Marta is only US$21 notes that the bus from mind.” Mike Davies to door”. four hours or so, is “door trip, although Neguange and Cinta within Tayrona National Park. at Bahia Concha, Gairaca, en route to Santa Marta from the ABCs, but it might These could be good stops them heading north and eastward, unless you catch be hard work to get back to the summer. Cruisers say that if your zarpe says a sporadic south wind in be allowed to stop in these places for a short period “Cartagena” you will likely your zarpe says “Santa Marta” you should proceed with the Q flag up, but if directly there. when recounting her first Skype home after arrival:echoed the experience of many safe?” Her answer was, “Yes, and we’re safe and“You’re in Colombia? Are you happy.” to nearly 1.7 million in 2012. Reports of crimesing 600,000 tourists in 2000 waters in recent years have been few, mainly citingagainst yachts in Colombian or attempted theft, from Cartagena and its nearbydinghy and/or outboard theft, should be taken. Islas Rosarios. Normal precautions country and the government is looking at the ers that “Colombia is a maritime fishing and yachting. development of all maritime sectors, including shipping, for safety, Our coast guard vessels are working for security, communications Colombian waters.” search and rescue, and the protection of all boats in working to develop nauticalColombians in the private and public sectors have been note. Nineteen US compa- tourism, and international boating interests are taking (NMMA) will host a USAnies and the National Marine Manufacturers Association Show this month, fromPavilion at the second annual Cartagena International Boat Colombia last July toMarch 22nd through 24th. US industry leaders visited market. From theexplore potential opportunities in the increasingly attractive February 2014 edition of says Julie Balzano,significant opportunities to be had by US companies there,” up shop early they candirector of export development for the NMMA. “By setting During our trip webuild success and become the recognized brand in the industry. European brands arenoted that the Spaniards, French, Canadians and other emerging industry.” already beginning to solidify their key relationships in this development in the Rojas, nautical tourism has become an engine for tourism of 22 nautical tourism country. The government has embarked on a program recreational boating projects, including development of marinas and other over the coming 15 facilities along the country’s Caribbean and Pacific coasts jobs. years, which is expected to generate more than 13,500 which includes note) of the country’s entire Caribbean and Pacific coastlines, plus waypoints, a excellent charts from the Colombian Hydrographic Service, various sources including service directory, and general information provided by cruiser Constance Elson of welcome a Gran Prix sailor to Santa Marta Top right: Cartagena’s plazas are social hubs; Right: Lt. Commander Jesús Gonzáles and his men Above, top to bottom: Nets and fishing boats at Taganga; ancient terraces at Cuidad Perdida; the historic quarter of Cartagena; and Tayrona National Park MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 • Allslipswithfingers • Shorepower30,50and100amps • ABYCcertifiedmachanics • 70TonTravelift(30'beam) • Slipsto120’withdepth10’ • HighQualityShelteredMoorings Zar-Par Marina Visit: marinazarpar.comemail: [email protected] - oppositeIsland Water World Bay Maarten Cole - St. [email protected] Email: 5044 544 +1721 Fax: 5231 544 +1721 Tel: M Repairs and Alterations New Sails and Sail Repairs Cushions andUpholstery Biminis and Dodgers a Tel: 8095235858VHF Channel 5

r Z i THE FOCALPOINTFORCRUISINGYACHTSMENT &7milesEastofInternationalAirport • 12milesEastofSantoDomingo • DinghyDock • FreeWIFIandInternet • Immigrationofficeinthemarinaforclearance • Showers,Laundry,Restaurant,24hrsecurity 69.36.67W 18.25.50N 42-foot ketch, nautical bookstoresandonline.Torispresently revisitingtheCaribbeanaboardhis Sea! -HowtoOutfittheModernCruising Hey KissHimGoodbye”atballgames today.Tor’sauthoritativebook, ing thegroupSteam.Sportsfansstillchant thechorusfromtheirhitrecord,“NaNa miles undersail,butwaybeforethatheplayed inastringofrock-n-rollbandsinclud- boys intheband. water taxishackI’llbringmyownguitar andacoupleofsix-packsBalboaforthe all, ispartofwhatIcruisefor,theconnectionsoappreciate.Nexttimevisit the of newfriendsandIthought,“Whatasweetwelcometolandfall!”This,after their feettotherhythmsandsmiledalot.Aye,goodtimewashadbyall! adjacent dock,whoprobablydidn’tunderstandawordofwhatIwassinging,tapped beers, occasionalharmoniesandcrispLatinoguitarriffs.Watertaxiskipperson the ite, “ZombieJamboree”,themenencouragingmeallwhilewithcoldBalboa by anupbeatsailingsongI’dwritten,andfinishedwiththeperennialcalypsofavor- them. Sure,whynot?IcutloosewiththeoldBelafontestandard“Matilda”,followed song and,havingnoticedthatIknewafewchords,invitedmetoplaysomething for or justlaughedandhootedwhenthelyricsturnedbawdy. in; anotheraddedpercussionbyslappingonabarrel.Voicesjoinedinchoruses me, soIsat.Themusicflowed.Ayoungmanpulledoutasmallaccordionandjoined to theLatinorhythms.Someonegesturedanemptychair,smilingandnodding at chatting; onefellowdozedinacorner.Ileanedagainstpostforwhiletoe-tapping taxi depot.Adozenlocals,mostly and singingtraditionalsongsbehindawaterfrontshedthatturnedouttobewater stumbled intosomethingevenbetter. straight outofaJimmyBuffetballad.Justwalkingaroundwasfun,butthenI 20-something backpackers,agingAngloexpatsandsomebackwatercharacters cruising sailors,gringosurfers,stoicNgobeIndians,bilingualWest cheerful blendofsmall-townPanamanians,Chineseimmigrants,multi-national could oneaskfor? man vegetablestands,twoexcellentbakeriesandabeerwarehouse.Whatmore to re-provision,withwell-stocked,family-ownedgroceryandhardwarestores,one- by pedestriansandfat-tiredbicyclesthanautomobiles.Still,it’saprettygoodplace has theweathered-woodfeelofafrontiertown,withbroadmainstreetusedmore archipelago ofsmallislands.Theculturalhub,BocasTown,whereIwasclearingin, of this. Bocas delToroonthenorthwestcoastofPanamawasanespeciallyhappyexample in return.Itaddsanotherdimensiontothevisit,aspecialconnection.Myarrival tained people—justforthefunofitinmanyaforeignport,andbeenentertained acoustic mixthatnaturallyincludesplentyofislandsongs.OvertheyearsI’veenter- can stillplayandsing,butmyrepertoirethesedaysisalotmorelaidback,an being, awelcomeguest,andgrassrootsdiplomat. tudes relax;blankstaresarereplacedbysmiles.Allatonceyou’reafellowhuman tion, thenjustanotheryachtie.Butplaythematune,singsong,andatti- often eitheracuriositytolocalsindevelopingcountriesor,ifit’spopulardestina- is especiallyapparentwhentheperformerhasarrivedaboardasailboat.Cruisersare music. Livemusicbridgeslanguageandculturalgapsanywhereintheworld.This new friendssharetheuniversallanguageofmusic the locallubricant; Clockwise fromabove:RushhouratBocasTown; Back Porch Landfall Back Porch Lifelong cruisingsailorTorPinney(www.tor.cc) hasloggedabout150,000nautical By thetimeItoremyselfawayandheadedbacktomyboatI’dmadeawholeslew Then somebodyhandedmeaguitarandIstartedplayingalong.Theyfinishedthe It wasabackporchjamsession,coupleofoldtimersonbenchplayingguitars In themidstofitallacityparkprovidesaninformalsocialcenterforlocals, Bocas delToroisafriendly,easygoingyetlivelycommunitysprawledacrossan I’m arockbandrefugeewholongagotradedthestagefordeckofsailboat.I Some socialicebreakersareuniversal:asmile,children,friendlydog…and Silverheels. by TorPinney panga drivers,werehangingaroundlisteningand (Sheridan House),isavailablein Ready for MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 s e N.V. c i f f O

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AUTHORISED DEALERSHIP > Space Saving Space NJ USA Ramsey, PROUDLY MADE IN boatbladders.com [email protected] DIESEL OUTFITTERS Bobby's Marina Airport, Airport Road 32,St. Maarten N. A. +1-201-825-1400 It’s too soon to sail from the Eastern Caribbean to the US East Coast, but it’s never too soon to start thinking about which ‘exit strategies’ will work best for you SAILING DIRECTIONS BY DON STREET DIRECTIONS BY SAILING

for the US East Coast for the US

had a normal passage north to Bermuda until, on the fifth day out, sailing nicely with everything

STREET’S TRANSATLANTIC CROSSING GUIDE CROSSING TRANSATLANTIC STREET’S Iolaire ) plus almost 40 trips between the Eastern Caribbean and the US East Coast or the reverse. ) plus almost 40 trips between the Eastern Caribbean

Iolaire Next month: Leaving the Eastern Caribbean bound for Europe. Occasionally a boat will head due north from Bermuda, sail 720 miles to Halifax, and then cruise the Nova Scotia Occasionally a boat will head due north from Bermuda, sail 720 miles to Halifax, and then cruise the Nova Scotia Again, as previously noted, keep track of the weather and do not get caught in the Gulf Stream by a cold front Again, as previously noted, keep track of the weather and do not get caught in the Gulf Stream by a cold The sail northward from Bermuda can be an easy trip, sped along by the prevailing southwest wind, but it is The sail northward from Bermuda can be an easy trip, sped along by the prevailing southwest wind, but In 1985, This does not always happen, however. In 1980 so many boats were heading to Bermuda after Antigua Sailing This does not always happen, however. In 1980 so many boats were heading to Bermuda after Antigua Sailing Boats heading farther north to the New York or Newport area can head from the Eastern Caribbean to Bermuda, Boats heading farther north to the New York or Newport area can head from the Eastern Caribbean to Bermuda, If heading for the entrance to the Chesapeake, lay a course to a waypoint 70 miles east of the entrance to the If heading for the entrance to the Chesapeake, lay a course to a waypoint 70 miles east of the entrance to When riding the Gulf Stream north, keep track of the weather. If a cold front with northwest or north wind movesWhen riding the Gulf Stream north, keep track of the weather. Alternatively, the shorter route is a direct rhumb-line route, 1,200 miles from St. Thomas to Morehead City, but Alternatively, the shorter route is a direct rhumb-line The first is to make for St. Martin to stock up, then head northwest passing north of Puerto Rico; the Navidad, The first is to make for St. Martin to stock up, then head Some boats will be heading northwest for the Morehead City/Beaufort entrance to the ICW, a good route north forSome boats will be heading northwest for the Morehead A study of the weather charts has led really experienced offshore sailors to say, “Anyone heading north or north- has led really experienced offshore sailors to say, “Anyone A study of the weather charts The weather charts show areas and frequency of wave heights of 12 feet or over. Again, the chart does not show and frequency of wave heights of 12 feet or over. The weather charts show areas On the front of the chart are shown all the normal great circle courses that are likely to be sailed by a yacht, shown all the normal great circle courses that are On the front of the chart are The first thing that should be done is to purchase the Imray Iolaire passage chart 100. It is a gnomonic chart 100. It is a gnomonic be done is to purchase the Imray Iolaire passage The first thing that should Spring will soon be in the air and some sailors are already planning a trip away from the Eastern Caribbean: air and some sailors are already planning a trip away Spring will soon be in the Leaving the Eastern Caribbean Caribbean Eastern the Leaving coast eastwards to Bras d’Or Lakes (fresh water, no fog). They then exit the north end of the lakes and sail to the coast eastwards to Bras d’Or Lakes (fresh water, no fog). They then exit the north end of the lakes and sail and French islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon to stock up on inexpensive beer, wine and booze, French cheeses top off reputably the best French bread in North America. Then 40 miles on to Port Fortune, Newfoundland, to ’s fuel, water and stores and do a crew change if necessary. (Port Fortune has daily bus service to Newfoundland capital, St. John’s.) Then off to Ireland, 1,720 miles, or stay and enjoy an unusual summer cruising ground. that swings from north to northeast. If necessary head south, back toward Bermuda, get out of the Stream and that swings from north to northeast. If necessary head south, back toward Bermuda, get out of the Stream wait for the front to pass. very important before leaving Bermuda to ascertain the southeast meander of the Gulf Stream. When racing from very important before leaving Bermuda to ascertain the southeast meander of the Gulf Stream. When racing New England to Bermuda, the navigators who find it, and keep the boat in it, are among the top finishers. However if you run into the southeast meander when heading northwest, it stops you dead in your tracks. hoisted, I saw a big black cloud moving in from the west. We shortened down before it hit and then spent the next hoisted, I saw a big black cloud moving in from the west. We shortened down before it hit and then spent the 36 hours under double-reefed main and staysail. Week that a race was organized among about 15 boats. They left Antigua with a booming tradewind — which which Week that a race was organized among about 15 boats. They left Antigua with a booming tradewind — died at the end of 24 hours. There was no wind from there to Bermuda! All abandoned the race and motorsailed to do until their fuel ran out. Hot racing boats (with very frustrated crews on board) were taking 11 and 12 days the 900 miles. course north, 900 miles. Conditions on this route vary drastically. Ideally, you leave Antigua, St. Martin or St. course north, 900 miles. Conditions on this route vary drastically. Ideally, you leave Antigua, St. Martin of light Thomas, head north on a fast beam reach for the first 500 or 600 miles, and then run into a hundred miles airs. Eventually the southwester fills in and takes you on to Bermuda. Chesapeake. Head for this waypoint, and then turn west and enter the Chesapeake. This route keeps you well clear Chesapeake. Head for this waypoint, and then turn west and enter the Chesapeake. This route keeps you well pass of Cape Hatteras, the graveyard of many ships over the last four centuries. It is said the only proper way to Cape Hatteras is 70 miles to the west, or 20 miles to the east! across the States, once it gets off shore it balls up and becomes a strong northeaster blowing against the Stream. Thisacross the States, once it gets off shore it balls up and becomes a strong northeaster blowing against the Stream. Streamcan produce horrific conditions in the Stream, with 25 or more knots blowing against a northeasterly Gulf running two to three knots. If a cold front approaches, duck into Charleston and wait it out before continuing. this route leads through an area of light and variable winds. this route leads through an area of light and variable Silver and Mouchoir Banks; and the northern edge of the Bahamas, until the Gulf Stream is reached. Then ride Silver and Mouchoir Banks; and the northern edge of With luck you will carry the tradewinds all the way to the Stream north to the Morehead City/Beaufort entrance. up the southwesterlies. For the first thousand miles you will the Gulf Stream. Then, again with luck, you will pick you reach the Gulf Stream, the current will boot you along have a two-thirds to one-knot favorable current. When for the extra distance, 250 or 300 extra miles sailed the way at two to three knots. This will usually compensate compared to the rhumb-line route. boats that draw seven feet or less and have an “air draft” of less than 64 feet. There are two options on this route.boats that draw seven feet or less and have an “air draft” east from the Eastern Caribbean before the end of the first week in May is playing Russian roulette with three before the end of the first week in May is playing east from the Eastern Caribbean about disasters, being told of is also my conclusion, based on 70 years of reading bullets in the cylinder.” This backed up by 12 transatlantics (seven on the engine- disasters first hand and hearing many second-hand reports, less how much over 12 feet can be expected. It must also be remembered that if the waves are running 12 feet, occa- be expected. It must also be remembered that if the how much over 12 feet can and waves of 24 feet will arrive. sionally they will get in sync with the distance to be sailed. On the back there are weather and wave-height charts for the entire year, except On the back there are weather and wave-height with the distance to be sailed. be sailing in the North Atlantic. February and March, months when yachts should not for the months of January, of calms plus gale frequency. direction, frequency and strength, and the percentage The weather charts show wind or more, sometimes much more. a word of warning: gales mean Force 8 (40 knots) Regarding gale frequency, more severe than May gales. than summer gales. April gales are most likely Winter gales are usually stronger projection, where a great circle course is shown as a straight line. It covers the whole North Atlantic and the whole North Atlantic and circle course is shown as a straight line. It covers projection, where a great the Caribbean. heading to North America or Europe, or heading west or south within the Caribbean. Europe, or heading west or south within the Caribbean. heading to North America or MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 Electric: 110V30Amp Located oppositeG.Y.E. BEQUIA MARINA [email protected] 1(784)4950235VHF68 B &CFUELSENTERPRISE Easily approachedfromCarriacou, UnionI.,PalmI.&PSV Tel/Fax: (473)443-9110email: [email protected] Water &Dockageavailable-newServicescomingsoon! FUEL •OILWATERICE e-mail: [email protected]/68 & CANVAS •BEQUIA GRE Open 7days8:00am-6:00pmorlater! Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527 G Contact: GlennClementorReynold Belmar

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. ANDREW STEVENSON ANDREW because ofitsintricatepatternor Humpback whalesongisidentifiable repeated overandagain. cally lasttento15minutesandis song researchers havelearnedthatthe lous realmsofhumpbackwhalesong, similar intonetoman-mademusic. with melodiesandnotesthatarevery lar tohumanmusical“traditions”, cies. Thesesongsarestrikinglysimi- predictable soundsmadebythisspe- to describethepatternofregularand any animal.Theword“song”isused sequences ofanywhaleorpossibly duces thelongest,mostcomplex male humpbackwhale,whichpro- and eeriesoundsaremadebythe that thesegrunts,rumbles,squeals chirps andsqueaks.Today,weknow underwater moansandhigh-pitched station offBermuda,recordedlong early underwatersubmarinelistening Frank Watlington,whilemanningan To divemoredeeplyintothenebu- The SongStructure

is aseriesofsoundsthattypi- song session all thewhalesproduce

formed thesubjectof can last for hours canlastforhours MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 (full moon) TAILS.org 10 11 12 2043 13 2147 14 2211 15 2257 16 2344 17 0000 18 0034 19 0126 20 0220 21 0317 22 0414 23 0511 24 0608 25 0702 26 0755 27 0847 28 0938 29 1029 30 1120 1211 1302 CARIB www. itical for conservation efforts. hotographs of humpback whales of humpback hotographs 21 22 23 0331 24 0425 25 0522 26 0619 27 0716 28 0812 29 0908 30 1002 31 1056 1147 April 2014 1239 1 2 3 4 1331 5 1423 6 1514 7 1605 8 1654 9 1743 1826 1915 1959 in Helping? Go to MARCH & APRIL 2014 OF THE MOON (full moon) MERIDIAN PASSAGE MERIDIAN PASSAGE Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with moon. The tide starts Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the and full moons. Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new back of all Imray Iolaire For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the March 2014 DATE TIME 1 2 3 4 1216 5 1309 6 1402 7 1453 8 1544 9 1634 10 1724 11 1814 12 1902 1949 13 2035 14 2120 15 2205 16 2249 17 2333 18 0000 19 0017 20 0103 0150 0239 our contributions of tail flukeof our contributions p make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don make your passage faster and more comfortable. The charts, which Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire the moon for this AND next shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of month, will help you calculate the tides. to run east until about an running to the east soon after moonrise, continues and then runs westward. hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) the tide runs eastward; From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, tide runs westward; i.e. and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the the tide floods from west to east. Times given are local. charts. Fair tides! HELP TRACKMIGRATION HUMPBACKHELP WHALE Y from the Caribbean region cr are from the Caribbean INTERESTED Then came the beautiful part: on the beach, Lady Then came the beautiful part: on the beach, Lady Sylvie, John and Davon observe as the redeemed Loggerhead makes her way back to the sea by Marina Fastigi by Marina Sandy Island MPA borders, we found the right spot. Along Along Sandy Island MPA borders, we found the right spot. this stretch of coast the Loggerhead may have a chance to recover some needed strength before taking off for deeper pastures. Loggerhead was wetted with some sea water; the distinctive

Marina Fastigi is the founder director of YWF KIDO Foundation. Please remember that sea turtles killed in Grenadian waters may belong to other Grenada still has a law that allows the hunting of sea turtles (except the leather- Seventy percent of the Caribbean nations have already banned sea turtle hunting, We know that sea turtles are in danger of extinction because they are still caught We then erased her tracks in the sand leaving no signs for poachers to try search- One could tell the pleasant shock Lady Turtle experienced when sea foam and a On secluded Lauriston beach, near mangroves and a shallow reef inside the a shallow reef inside the On secluded Lauriston beach, near mangroves and She was the 328th turtle KIDO has rescued in and around Carriacou to date. She was the 328th turtle KIDO has rescued in and around make new friends and when An animal rescue event often becomes an occasion to This creature needed a safe release and, to put an end to her ordeal, we agreed on release and, to put an end to her ordeal, we agreed on This creature needed a safe The female Loggerhead turtle, classified as an endangered species by IUCN classified as an endangered species by IUCN The female Loggerhead turtle, We had not seen or heard of one here in years, in fact, the last Loggerhead turtle weWe had not seen or heard of Caribbean nesting grounds and may frequent Marine Protected Areas of different nations (our international tagging program demonstrates this fact). Sea turtles can migrate thousands of miles between their nesting grounds and their feeding grounds, therefore, in order to effectively preserve them, we also need to approve and imple- ment conservation laws at the regional level. back) for eight months per year, the longest hunting season in the world. The Grenada Fund for Conservation, YWF-Kido Foundation and Ocean Spirits are about to present a petition to the Government of Grenada asking for a moratorium on sea turtle hunting. You may help this cause by signing at www.thepetitionsite.com/ takeaction/228/115/847/. conscious of the important role these magnificent creatures play in the marine eco- system: the most relevant for human fisheries being that turtles effectively prey on jellyfish, and jellyfish prey on fish eggs and larval fish, such as yellowfin tuna — therefore fewer turtles in the sea means fewer fish in the sea. by nets, either on purpose or by accident, and that turtle eggs are still poached or sold as an aphrodisiac, a myth hard to kill! ing for a nesting turtle or a turtle floating around. I could not help noticing that all taking part in the release were exhilarated and smiling, from deep within — a healing smile of sorts. wave surge washed over her; she paused, took a deeper breath and plowed on until she disappeared in her rightful home. patterns on her brown carapace shone again as she laboriously dug her flippers in the sandy slope toward the ocean. Sylvie and John, a couple from the UK on sabbatical in Carriacou, offered to help, Sylvie and John, a couple from the UK on sabbatical to drive to a more protected we all, turtle and crew, boarded our aging Land Rover Sylvie even offered a financial and suitable location for the release. Our new friend later revealed that, when they contribution towards the purchase of the animal and no intention to be a part of had seen us handling the turtle off the boat, they had commotion was about killing anything with us because they were concerned that the KIDO rescue was about they off the poor creature! When we had explained what the were relieved: that day was going to be a great day! a purchase price (the only way we can rescue turtles, because turtle hunting is still way we can rescue turtles, because turtle hunting is a purchase price (the only we proceeded to carefully lift the 120-pound turtle from legal in Grenada), and then I) on shooting photos while the KIDO team (Dario and the boat to shore. Davon kept flippers with official ID numbers. measured and tagged her front (International Union for Conservation of Nature), had been accidentally caught in a of Nature), had been accidentally caught (International Union for Conservation by and had been kept inside a speedboat overnight fishnet set off Petite Martinique Area warden. Jody, a former Marine Protected rescued in Carriacou was eight years ago. So when we got the message that fishermenrescued in Carriacou was eight and we immediately called environmental photographer had one at L’Esterre beach, the KIDO team to document this rare occasion. friend Davon Baker to join RESCUED TURTLE TURTLE LOGGERHEAD LOGGERHEAD MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 take anewtackinfewweeks. creative areaofyourlife,butthoseaspectswill Communications maybegarbled,especiallyinthe become afull-fledgedromancebymonth’send. delegate thechores. irons, though,souseyourpositiononboardto in thesecond.Yourenthusiasmforworkwillbe swept awaybythereturnoffreshbreezefun time andmakepositiveuseofyourenergies. irons, sofindanartisticprojectonboardtofillthe return toanevenkeel. to easethemainsheetandhelpthingsonboard Your attentiontodetailwillhelp,withsomehumor, communication problemswithcrewcouldarise. negative aspects. in ingenuitywillbeusefulsailingpastthese the portholeintoyourfinancialmatters.Fairwinds choppy seas. low tideyoursenseofhumorwillsailyouthrough boat business.Eventhoughyourenergiesareat three weeksanditwillhaveapositiveeffecton the courseyouhavechosen. your senseofhumorwillhavepositive payoffs on sail, sosetthemonaprofitablecourse. These and it lasts—willbegoodforyoursailingspirit. on course. ability tolaughwillbethecompassthatkeepsyou your outlookonlife. fresh horizonsandletnewexperienceslighten Divert yourselfwithawalkashoreorsolosailto crew orcruisingpalswillnothelpyourmood. prove frustratingandpossibleargumentswith open solovecansailin. be indeepstowage,keepyourheartandmind projects aboard.Thoughyoursenseofhumormay cruising kitty. gifts andsenseofhumorwillcontributetothe affairs thismonth.Yourcreativemind,verbal What startsoutasaminorflirtationcould The doldrumsyoufeelinthefirstweekwillbe Romance willbeebbingandbusinessisstillin Fluky windsincreativitymaybefrustratingand Rough seasinyourlovelifecouldsplashthrough Concentrate onyourcreativecourseforthefirst Your creativegiftsandverbalskillsareunder full L’amour, l’amour,toujoursl’amour! While romancesailsawayoverthehorizon,your Constantly shiftingwindsinnewideasmay Use whatinventivedriveyouhavetocomplete Spend yourfair-windenergiesonboatbusiness MARCH 2014 SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul) Enjoyitwhile

KEN DYER — Nan Hatch My Heavenforalleternity. My destiny, thenthiswouldbe And ifperhapsIcouldcontrol The beautypermeatesmysoul Unmoving now, awaittheday. The sailboatsanchored inthebay Suspended betweenearthandsea. More distantisletsseemtobe SandyIsland’sTill longbeachshimmers The daybreak’s trembling sunlightglimmers. Myspiritrevels intheglory. As Godcreates thisnewday’s story, That takesmybreath away, andso The awesomecolorswithaglow As blushingsunrisenowunfolds Trading theirsilvernowforgold, Slowly transformsanddimsandsgleam Away thedarkness,tillscene Of thefirstlight’s splendorpeeling Aware, Iwitnesstherevealing I shedthedregs ofslumbertill Serene andsilver, tranquil,still, That calmlywaitsforthenewday. Ilookoutonthequietbay The breaking morning’s promise quivers, Hardly awake,Iriseandshiver,

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MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 ). Their 2 to remain are much higher 2 Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware unihemispheric sleep

e-mail: [email protected] Like whales and dolphins, there are also examples of animals that Like whales and dolphins, there Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear Finally, these animals have a higher tolerance for carbon dioxide (CO Finally, these animals have Most mammal species need significantly more sleep when they’re young, although significantly more sleep when they’re young, although Most mammal species need How Do Whales Sleep? — Puzzle How Do Whales Sleep? — Puzzle solution on page 41. After you finish finding all the words (up, down, across), see if you can find the hiddenAfter you finish finding all the mals can. And they can take in more air with each breath, as their lungs are propor- with each breath, as their they can take in more air mals can. And cells also carry In addition, their red blood than those in humans. tionately larger to the parts of mammals’ blood travels only And when diving, marine more oxygen. muscles. the brain and the swimming need oxygen — the heart, the body that to wait. any other processes have Digestion and than what a human can tolerate. Cetaceans reduce the number of breaths they take Cetaceans reduce the number of breaths they take than what a human can tolerate. might average eight to 12 breaths a minute when during rest periods; a dolphin per their breathing rate drop to three to seven breaths fairly active, only to have mechanisms, part of the marine mammal diving minute while resting. These the to living in a marine environment and help during response, are adaptations process of sleeping. first dolphins appear to not sleep at all during the baby orcas and baby bottlenose few months of life. semi-alert to their surroundings. can disrupt their normal sleeping patterns for certain special events, such as migra- can disrupt their normal sleeping with significantly less sleep during migratory seasons tory birds which can survive debt. Some have been shown to take extremely brief without building up any sleep sometimes using power naps of just a few seconds, message of how whales sleep! brains do not trigger a breathing response until the levels of CO brains do not trigger a breathing ech- Fax: (758) 452 0311 breathers, on top of breathers, whales and whales and

But whales and of your need to FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR voluntary blowholes involuntary Johnson Hardware Ltd. Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils conscious — a placement called

Unlike humans, (rapid eye movement) sleep that its head, so it needs to come up its head, so it needs to come to the water surface to breathe. But that means the whale needs to be awake to breathe. dolphins are every meaning they think about breath they take. A whale breathes through the Observations of bottlenose dol- phins in aquariums and of whales and dolphins in the wild show two basic methods of sleeping: they either rest quietly in the water, vertically or horizontally, or sleep while swimming slowly next to another animal. slipstream REM We humans are Tel: (758) 452 0299 Tel: that help them attain sufficient sleep. While asleep, you would have to remain While asleep, you would

adaptions For example, while sleeping, the humpback whale (whales, dolphins and porpoises) sleep differ among

sleep, marine mammals don’t sleep for a solid eight hours a sleep, marine mammals don’t sleep for a solid eight hours cetaceans

.

”, because they look like giant logs floating on the water.

of holding your breath underwater and remain of holding your breath underwater , obstacles and other animals. It also signals when to rise to the surface for , obstacles and other animals. It also signals when to

unihemispheric

Without Drowning? Without logging Whale sleep is complex and still being studied. One interesting finding, or lack Whale sleep is complex and still being studied. One So, how can they sleep and not drown? So, how can they sleep and • CATNAPPING: A new meaning to the expression “half asleep” • CATNAPPING: A new meaning to the expression “half • SLEEP ADAPTIONS Marine mammals have unique • WHERE’S THE SLUMBER PARTY? ZZZzzzzzzzzzz The locations where The way a cetacean sleeps is surprising. Quite unlike us, whales “sleep” by resting The way a cetacean sleeps is surprising. Quite unlike Can you imagine sleeping underwater? Can you imagine sleeping Salty is a humpback whale that loves to jam and sing. Every the winter he swims that loves to jam and sing. Every the winter he swims Salty is a humpback whale • UNDERTOW: The advantages to a “slip stream” time, they are in a state When marine mammals sleep and swim at the same

Being born underwater can cause problems for newborn whales and dolphin Being born underwater can cause problems for newborn How Do Whales Sleep Sleep Do Whales How

Rodney Bay, St. Lucia

thereof, is that whales do not appear to have is characteristic of humans. This is the stage in which most of our dreaming occurs. surface when your oxygen supply ran out. This is what whales do. surface when your oxygen dolphins must keep part of the brain alert to trigger each breath. dolphins must keep part of PROUDLY SPONSORED BY CONSERVATION: SALTY’S BEAT BY NATHALIE WARD SALTY’S BEAT BY CONSERVATION: SPONSORED PROUDLY As a result of limited observations of whales in the wild, scientists theorize that whales only sleep for short periods at a time. Foremost, marine mammals can hold their breath longer than other types of mam- species. Some rest at the surface, some are constantly swimming, and some even species. Some rest at the surface, some are constantly the surface for half an hour at rest below the water surface. Humpbacks may rest at frequent than a whale that’s a time. These whales take slow breaths that are less that we refer to this behavior active. They are so relatively motionless on the surface as “ one half of their brain at a time. throughout the . He doesn’t need a passport because he’s an interna- throughout the Caribbean Sea. sleep in the sea? tional citizen! How does he conscious shuts down only half of its brain along with the opposite eye. The other half of the shuts down only half of its brain along with the opposite side is used to watch for brain stays awake at a low level of alertness. This attentive predators a breath of air. Studies show that after a period of time, the animal will reverse this a breath of air. Studies show that after a period of time, the rested half. Because process, resting the active side of the brain and awakening of this rest, eat and sleep while similar to napping. Young whales and dolphins actually their mother swims, towing them along in her night, the way we do. elon swimming first, crucial breath. Studies calves. It is the touch of air on the skin that triggers that sleep on the move. In fact, she of bottlenose dolphins show that the mother will also newborn’s life. If she does for cannot stop swimming for the first several weeks of a born with enough body fat or any length of time, the calf will begin to sink; it is not blubber to float easily. meaning we breathe without thinking about it and have a “breathing reflex” that thinking about it and have a “breathing reflex” that meaning we breathe without sleeping or are knocked unconscious. kicks into gear when we’re MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 award forinteriordesign. Linda Lou also, onanotheryachttheyowned,the197-foot 1970s.) TheVonAllmenswerethereinMonaco is welllovedbythosewhoknewherhereinthe has hadmanyadventuresintheCaribbeanand magazine, wasabouttohandoutawards.(Jill Bobrow, theneditorof the readeriswhiskedawaytoMonaco,whereJill Europe, thecostoflaborwaslower. US wascompetitivebecause,comparedwith shock torealizethatbuilding to gomakealotofmoney.Soitcameas young, EuropeansthoughtoftheUSasplace middle classtoastrugglingone.WhenIwas skilled workersarefallingfromacomfortable for theride;however,atsametime,many ly richer,whichisgreatifeveryoneelsealong is that,especiallyintheUS,richareimmense- One ofthemoreobviouschangessincemyyouth so, hepaintsapictureoftoday’schangingworld. Mississippi, wheretheboatwasbuilt.Indoing craftsmen atTrinityYachtsinGulfport, also intothelivesofsomeworkersand into thelivesofitsowners,VonAllmens,but three yearsbehindschedule.Hedelvesnotonly Linda world thatisbesideus,yetsoalien. tantalizing yetunvarnishedglimpseintothis Caribbean cruiser, we haveknownitmostofourlives.Forthe own, onethathadlittletodowithyachtingas curve, butconstitutedayachtingclassoftheir upper endofsomekindanormalyachting became clearthatthesemonsterswerenotthe Barths, andAntigua.Astheyproliferatedit during thewintermonthsinSt.Martin, mon inmanyofouranchoragesandafixture that wasaboutit.Now,superyachtsarecom- East oilsheikwouldappearforafewdaysand a grandapparitionthatbelongedtoMiddle as didtheQueenofEngland.Fromtimetotime, Caribbean. AristotleOnassishadahugeyacht, ISBN-13: 978-1416576006. hard coverorase-book:ISBN-10:1416576002, Simon &Schuster©2013.256pagesAvailablein who can’treallyaffordit, the peoplewhobuiltitandmillionaire BOOK REVIEWBYCHRISDOYLE You CanGetUsedTo’ I knewwouldenjoythisbookwhen,earlyon, Bruce Knechtfollowsthebuildingof Superyachts usedtobeexceedinglyrareinthe Grand Ambition:AnExtraordinaryYacht; ‘It’sAmazingWhat fromitsinceptiontocompletion,some , forwhichtheyweretoreceivean Grand Ambition Show-Boats International

by G.BruceKnecht, Lady Linda providesa inthe Lady imagine. Forexample,onboard tastes ofsomeownersaremorebizarrethanwewould built who wassometimessaidtobetheworld’srichestman, the late1970s,AdnanKhashoggi,aSaudiarmsdealer “The Saudisaccountedforthemightiestfleet.During tant whenweareshowingoff,evenintheearlierdays: rarely failedtosharewithhisguests.”Sizeisimpor- were upholsteredwithwhaleforeskin,adetailOnassis ‘Ari’s bar’,anintimatespaceinwhichthebarstools much ofhisentertaininginwhatbecameknownas Showing offisabigpartofsuperyachting,andthe Nabila —Continuedonnextpage nally builtforaSaudiprince. which, the377-foot-long owned threemonsteryachts,thebiggestof away leaderoftheoligarch-yachtsmen.He Britain’s Chelseafootballclubwastherun- oligarch: “…theforty-one-year-oldownerof is perhapsthebest-knownRussianyachting Abramovich, whohasahomeinSt.Barths, watch swimmersoverhead.”Roman ing itpossibleforthoseonthedancefloorto as thefloorofalargeswimmingpool,mak- ence: theceiling,madeofglass,alsoserves else: adiscotheque.Adiscowithdiffer- space wasdesignedtobecomesomething cranes. Whenbothtendersareremoved,the can belaunchedbyapairoftelescoping enough tohousetwo30-foottenders,which to bothsidesofthehull.Thespaceislarge garage isavastcompartmentthatopensout through 690gallonsofdieselanhour.”“ square feetoflivingspace,andburns than $300milliontobuild,has23,000 is ajaw-dropper:390feetlong,itcostmore by sky-is-the-limitsuperyachtstandards,it which isoftenseenintheCaribbean.“Even Melnichenko, 36yearsoldandownerof a tasteforyachting.OneoftheseisAndrey can getusedto.” question aboutit.Butit’samazingwhatyou excessive,” hetold was agreatindulgence.“It’sabsolutely ing craft.”Ellisonadmittedthathiscreation smaller boats,includingajeep-bearingland- living areaandcarriedmorethanadozen 2004, ithadmorethan85,000squarefeetof Sun yachts, tostretchthelengthofhis instructed Lürssen,whichwasbuildingboth point whereitcouldbealtered,Ellison When steps toensurethatitsreignwouldbebrief. billionaire, LarryEllison,hadalreadytaken launched in2003,anotherhigh-techmulti- became America’slargestyachtwhenitwas anything gainingmomentum.“While in the21stcentury,show-offelementif than 250telephones.” tors, acinema,billiardroom,andmore Again”. Fivedeckshigh,ithadthreeeleva- 1983 JamesBondfilm“NeverSayNever The Russianoligarchsalsohaddeveloped Superyachts becamemuchmorepopular , a281-footerthatwasfeaturedinthe from393to452feet.Launchedinlate Octopus’s constructionwaspastthe Vanity Fair Christina Pelorus magazine.“No , “Onassisdid , wasorigi- Octopus Rising A’s A ,

MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 Lady . While his . While his Lady Linda Zar-Par volumes 3 , his finances having rebounded, Lady Linda Marina cost about $40 million). When Doug finally takes This book will not make you feel envious of either the Irony is not lost on Bruce Knecht, especially when it on Bruce Knecht, especially Irony is not lost world in this very white Republican It is surprising This book is not talking about the one percent in FREE and throws a party, he is not especially excited. “It and throws a party, he is not especially excited. “It was, he said, his feelings about yachting that had changed. ‘The magic has worn off a bit; we have been to so many places already,’ he said. ‘I still like looking at the water and the service you get on board, but there’s a bit of “been there, done that”.’” megayachts or the luxury lifestyle, but it will give you a rare glimpse into what they are all about. Linda delivery of this gives the book the right amount of tension to keep book the right amount of tension this gives the turn the pages. you wanting to yard-owners attitudes of the yacht- and comes to the the illegal to decry both Obama and who all seem as some of — at the same time immigration problem are doing the hired by a subcontractor, these illegals, the hull, dangerous work in fairing dirtiest and most adequate safety gear. often without the designer, a man who to meet Evan Marshall, in the Caribbean. “Evan would look very at home most sought-after yacht Marshall, one of the world’s office in the fall of 2006, designers, was in his London desk that was covered hunched over a door-sized of with schematic drawings of more than five iPod shuffled through a collection soul, jazz, and rock from thousand songs, a mix of he rarely lifted his head. the 1960s to the present, look at his laptop, which When he did, it was only to the same plans, together held electronic versions of Marshall’s appear- with engineering specifications. people would expect of a ance was not what most built black man with a yacht designer. A powerfully an African-American Mr. shaved head, he looked like a sociology professor at Clean.” Evan’s father was owned a 32-foot cabin Columbia University and by yachts, studied cruiser. Evan became enamored Sparkman & Stephens, yacht design, worked for big yacht action went moved to the UK when the there, and eventually opened his own office, which has been hugely successful. superyachting, but rather an even more rarified world than that. To build a boat clearly in this class, one must be able to blow at least $20 million dollars on what is essentially a show-off second home (

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Lady Linda now When the building of When the building . as they were, especially after he is persuaded by a man as they were, especially after he is persuaded by a man called Rothstein to invest a hundred million in what turns out to be a Ponzi scheme. Rothstein flees to Monaco and sends a note that starts: “Sorry for letting you all down.” Things do not look much better for Trinity Yachts, which has no new yacht orders and is heading into a financial crunch; it seems to be touch and go as to whether they will complete the project. All is looking good. Demand for superyachts is high and Demand for superyachts is looking good. Van Allmen that Doug and Linda the two superyachts for them. way more than they paid own are worth show that the to build in the US to Doug is determined Europe. As as good as the best from results can be recession hits the recent worldwide building proceeds, for big yachts goes to hell. The demand and everything not as rosy Van Allmen’s prospects are falls, and even Cruising Life main Caribbean Compass US$8.95 , but Abramovich , but Abramovich Lady Linda’s Pelorus at www.amazon.com! 200 issues of cruising sailors and armchair dreamers.” the collection is sure to spark ideas in both Now available as an eBook at Amazon.com, .” in a very different way, offering new pleasures. Read a preview and order the pieces in this collection resonate and sparkle Eclipse Beyond its entertainment — the first piece had me hooked — Cruising Life: The Best Stories from Caribbean Compass Ann Vanderhoof, author of An Embarrassment of Mangoes and is a collection of 49 outstanding stories selected from more than as the world’s largest yacht. Fittingly, it would largest yacht. Fittingly, as the world’s The Spice Necklace, says, “Given a new life beyond the magazine, The Best Stories from Caribbean Compass Caribbean The Best Stories from was 13 feet longer than was 13 feet Continued from previous page Continued from A outdoor dining area, so diners will be comfortable regardless of the weather. ‘It’s amazing what you can get used to’ It’s reported that air-conditioning and heating panels are built into the overhead above had already taken steps to reclaim his title by commis- steps to reclaim his title had already taken would carry a larger yacht, one that sioning a much things, a be protected by, among other submarine and At 536 feet, it missile-detection system. sophisticated and displace crew of more than fifty would have a Dubai be called — MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 ible abovethehorizonaround2330hours. the horizonandbelowMarsyoumayfindSaturntrailingbehind.willbevis- of Virgo.Ifyoucanstayuppastcruisers’midnight,lookaboutsevendegreesabove of Winds. Succat’s Day,hisgivenname.TheIrishnameforthismonth’sFullMoonisthe his teammatesinfrontofafemaletrainer:“I’dratherputitbehindme”. and revelry. was enthusiasticallycelebratedamongthecommonpeoplewithpicnics,drinking, taxes atwork.)Consequently,thecalendardidn’tlast.ThedayofIdes,however, felt likeit,whichwasn’toften.(TheymusthavebeenonacruiseintheMed.Roman to adddaysmakeupthedifference.Theydidthatportionoftheirjobwhenthey endar wastenandaquarterdaystooshort.TheRomanpoliticiansweresupposed the firstfullmoonofNewYearanddeadlineforsettlingdebts.Well,cal- mined bythefullmoon.Onearliestcalendar,IdesofMarchwouldhavebeen the “otherside”ofplanet.Wewon’tgettoseeMoonuntilitrisesat1823. 125 millionmiles(160,934,400to201,168,000Km)closerEarth. the AndromedaGalaxytonightandwhenyouviewitagaininMay,willbe100to your nakedeyes. sky sixtimesthewidthofMoon.Itisonefarthestobjectsyoucanseewith eye orthroughbinoculars.IfAndromedawerebrighterwewouldseeitinthenight that distanceAndromedaappearsasadimfuzzydiskwhenyouseeitwiththenaked news, thelightarrivingfromAndromedatook2.5millionyearstogetEarth.At become visibleintheEasternskyforashorttimebeforesunrise.Talkaboutold horizon atnightthroughthemiddleofMay.InMay,Andromedawillreturnand Galaxy forafewmonths.AfterMarch8th,theAndromedagalaxywillbebelow sky. ThefirstfewdaysofMarchwillbethelastchancetoviewAndromeda that couldhavehappenedwithinsecondsororiginatedmillionsofyearsago. estimated tobe11.7°N40.0°W. the ComprehensiveNuclear-Test-BanTreatyOrganization,mainimpactwas than 600meteoriteswhenenteringtheatmosphere.Fromsensorsmonitoredby compared to500tonsofTNT.Similarsizedasteroidshavealsobrokenintomore fireball wouldhavebeencreatedasitenteredtheatmosphere.Thestrengthwas through thesky,youwerelucky.Basedonasteroid’sphysicalsize,ahuge Trinidad onJanuary1st,2014around0002hours*andsawtheasteroidstreaking looking intheSouthernnightskyorwereonapassagebetweenGrenadaand make impact. discovered. Within21hoursithadenteredtheEarth’satmosphereonitswayto Early April2014 in Marchand The Sky There willbeaconjunctionbetweenMars,SpicaandtheMooninconstellation Tuesday March18th–Moon,MarsandSpica It isSt.Patrick’sDayonMarch17th.ThatdoessoundbetterthanMaewyn A “FullMoon”quotefromPeytonManningafterbeingquestionedaboutmooning In Romantimesthecalendarwasbasedonlunarcycle.TheIdesweredeter- The actualFullMoonoccursat1309hourswhenitislocatedbelowthehorizonon Sunday March16th–FullMoonMusings The AndromedaGalaxyisonacollisioncoursewiththeMilkyWay.Takelookat Because oftheNewMoontherewillbebetterviewingfaintobjectsinnight Saturday March1st–NewMoon It mayseemlikeoldnews,butanylookintothenightskyisaatlightorevents A potentialimpactzonewas0.3°southofGrenada.Soifyouhappenedtobe On January1st,2014anasteroidsixtoninefeet(twothreemetres)insizewas In CaseYouMissedIt Slainte! AndcheerstoMontserrat“theOtherEmeraldIsle”. by JimUlik THE CARIBBEANSKY:FREESHOWNIGHTLY!

FIGURE 2 FIGURE 1 tion ofthisphenomenonforNASA.Icouldn’tfindaroyalty-freeviewposting!) located intheconstellationLibra.(Somewhereanartistshouldbecreatingarendi- clear youshouldbeabletoseetheSaturnrisewithoutbinoculars.Bothwill shadowed edgeoftheMoonat0017.Itwillbeinfullview0045.Ifweatheris Moon willbe81.7percentilluminatedandSaturnbegintoemergeabovethe the 21st,SaturnwillbegintorisefromDarkSideofMoon.Fortunately 20th, SaturnwillbeobscuredbytheMoon,bothrisingaround2245.Movingonto Rise AbovetheMoon —Continuedonnextpage You can’tseeit,butNeptuneisinthirdbetweenVenusandMercury. at 0404hoursintheconstellationofAquarius.Mercurywillfollowfourthplace. Islands, andSt.Martin. south coastoftheDominicanRepublic,PuertoRico,USandBritishVirgin Betelgeuse inOrion.Theasteroidwillobscuretheviewingofsomestarsover looking fortheasteroidhalfwaybetweenJupiter,whichisinGemini,and (166km) andwillbeviewableintheCaribbeanMexicoonMarch22nd.Start One oftheseknownasteroids,named(51)Nemausa,hasadiameter103miles Below: ComingoverfromtheDarkSide objects aretheHeartandSoulNebulas. Above: Lookingwest,theAndromedaGalaxyinproximitytoCassiopeia.Thered Winter turnstoSpring,andwiththatthoughtsturnto…aSaturnrise?Onthe Thursday andFriday,March20th21st—VernalEquinoxaSaturn A crescentMoonandVenuswillpasswithinthreeahalfdegreesofeachother Thursday March27th—MoonandVenusRendezvous There willbe47knownnear-EarthobjectsfromMarch1stthroughApril12th. Saturday March22nd—(51)Nemausa MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35

FIGURE 5 distribution dates throughout the region. All times are given as Atlantic Standard Time (AST) unless otherwise noted. The All times are given as Atlantic Standard Time (AST) unless Continued from previous page Continued from Tuesday April 8th — Mars as big as the Moon tonight. Contrary to all the internet posts, Mars will not be Tuesday April 15th — Eclipse of the Full Moon at 0343 and the maximum The eclipse will begin at 1255 hours. The Full Moon is Sky includes the first two You may have noticed that this month’s The Caribbean * in Grenada. Jim Ulik is a photographer and cruiser currently based Sunday March 30th — Black Moon Sunday March the Black March gets its second, called missing a New Moon, so February was 1st — Close Approach Tuesday April close pass to metres), will make another sized at 426 feet (130 Asteroid 2009FD, However, it will be at its closest approach to Earth and fully illuminated. However, it will be at its closest approach to Earth and will be below the horizon eclipse occurs three minutes later, at 0346. The Moon an hour and 18 minutes. The before the end of the eclipse. The total phase lasts for asleep before this eclipse is partial phase lasts more than five hours. You will fall over. It’s going to be a long one, folks! this. Going forward, we’ll weeks of April. Thank you to the reader who suggested to better correspond with the print sky happenings from mid-month to mid-month Caribbean Compass may vary by only a few min- times are based on the viewing position in Grenada and utes in different Caribbean locations. Moon. Sleep well, as there won’t be any moonlight shining through the porthole in moonlight shining through as there won’t be any Moon. Sleep well, your eyes tonight. approach to was in 2009. The next close not be as close as the pass Earth. It will with a close Mars will be the next target on October 29th, 2015. Earth occurs on May 6th, 2017. approach occurring —

FIGURE 3 FIGURE 4 Below: Moon, Venus and Mercury Right: Eclipse Above: Asteroid (51) Nemausa located in circle at 2321 to 2336 hours Above: Asteroid (51) Nemausa MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 [email protected] www.marigotbeachclub.com the amount. or rosemary)andaddtothedryingredients. Driedherbsworkaswell;justlessen inch apart.Bakefor12to15minutes. thick batter.Dropbythetablespoonfulontoagreasedbakingsheet,leavingabout 1 ture becomesacoarsemealintexture.Stirbuttermilkandmixwithforkinto a Great whenunexpectedguestsarrive. will freeze,storedinaziplockbag.Justdefrostbyplacingthebagsunnyspot. and bakeonalightlygreasedbakingsheetfor12to15minutesuntilnicelybrowned. water glasswillwork).Lightlyre-workleftoverdoughandcontinuecuttingbiscuits. into ahalf-inchthicknessandcutbiscuitsoutusingflouredtwo-inchcutter(asmall buttermilk andstirtoformasoft,stiffdough. ture usingapastryblenderortwoknivesuntilmixtureisroughcrumble.Addthe to tophotfruitdesserts.Abitofsugarshouldbeaddedifusedwith tered andjammedproduct. a crowdofadmirersinnotime.Justbesuretokeepsandoutthefinishedbut- fire. Thisuniquecookingmethodandthearomaoffreshlybakedbiscuitswillbring cue, orheadtothebeachbakeinapre-heatedreflectorovennextgoodhot these biscuitscanbebakedinabarbecue.Makethemonboard,usingyourbarbe- best orthatmostcloselyresemblesthebiscuitsofyourpast. and otherscallforitonlytobebrushedonthebiscuit’sexteriorbeforebaking. rather thanallbutterorshortening.Somerecipescallforaneggincludedinthemix Lighter biscuitscanalsobeobtainedwhenusingpartbutterandshortening, result. Somerecipesomitsugarbutasmallamountcanimproveorenhanceflavour. you love;gently.Kneadingshouldbekepttoaminimumensurelight,fluffyend your store’sdairycase.)Mysecretingredientforgreatbiscuitsisbuttermilk! terfat contentthanskimmedmilk.Ifyoudon’tbelieveme,doacomparisoncheckat those concernedaboutthisaspect.(Yes.Believeitornot,buttermilkhaslessbut- for superiorresults.Buttermilkhastheaddedbonusofreducingfatcontent Aboard ourboat,wegetaroundthecontroversybycallingthemscones. usually referstosmallquickbreadsmadewitheitherbakingsodaorpowder. cuits meanthin,wafer-likecrackers,orcookies.HereintheAmericas,term about “Ritzbiscuits”whentheboxclearlycallsthemRitzCrackers.InBritain,bis- not enjoyingthesamethingtheyenjoyinGreatBritain.IrecallmyMumtalking ance formeltedbutterandyourfavoritesweetbreakfastspread. can beusedtosopupsavorysaucesatlunchordinner,actasasimpleconvey- critical tastebudssalivatingsensuously.Thiseasyyetelegantadditiontoanymeal Chef [email protected]. Herb Biscuits-ChoptwoTablespoonsof freshherbs(suchasparsley,dill,thyme Raisin Scones-add1/4Cupraisins Cheese Biscuits-Add2/3Cupofgrated cheesetodryingredients To providevarietytoabasicbiscuitrecipe trythefollowingadditions: Variations In alargemixingbowl,combinedryingredientsandcutinshorteninguntilmix- Preheat ovento450°F(233°C) 1 Cupbuttermilk 1/3 Cupshortening 1 teaspoonsalt 4 teaspoonsbakingpowder 1 3/4Cupsiftedall-purposeflour This biscuitisgreatforfirst-timemakers,asitdoesnotrequirekneading. Drop Biscuits Serve hotwithyourfavoritesouporstew,atbreakfastbutterandjam.They Poke holesintopofbiscuitsusingafork,thenbrushtopswithbeateneggorcream, Flour aboardandkneadthedoughlightly,onlyuntilitholdstogetherwell.Press In amixingbowl,combinedryingredientsandmixwell.Cutbutterintoflourmix- Preheat ovento425°F(220°C). 1 egg,lightlybeaten,orcream 1/4 Cupflourforrollingthedough 1 Cupbuttermilk 1/2 Cupcoldbutter,cubed 1/2 teaspoonsalt 1/2 teaspoonbakingsoda 2 1/2teaspoonsbakingpowder 2 Cupsallpurposeflour Baking PowderBiscuits TIP: Theseversatilerecipescanalsobeusedasdumplingsonsoupsandstews,or If youdonothaveanovenonboardtoprovidethe425°Fbakingtemperature, Here aretwobiscuitrecipesthatIencourageyoutotry.Discovertheonelike The othersecrettomakinggoodbiscuitsishandlethemlikeyoutheone Interestingly enough,ifyouareintobiscuitshereinthispartoftheworld The aromaoffreshlybakedbiscuitswaftingfromthegalleywillsetevenmost BY ROSSMAVIS for Boaters Biscuits beat sourmilkorbuttermilk I maintainthatyoucan’t milk astheliquidingredient, cuit recipescallforregular achieve. Althoughmostbis- difficult, ifnotimpossible,to and consistentresultsare handed downarethatway thing else.Manyrecipes that andashakeofsome- a handfulofthis,pinch pe wastooinexact:callingfor Her problemisthatthereci- er’s bakingpowderbiscuits. ly lovetoduplicatehermoth- recently saidshewoulddear- An e-mailfromareader MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 : The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 Compass Visiting the Virgins Read in Next The Still Blissful San Blas Grenada’s Workboat Regatta JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. Stock Up on the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Hubbard’s Month’s … and much more! ,

, or , or bois bandé “Man wants bois “Man wants bois Roupala montana The New Caribbean g. Parinari campestris. g. Parinari campestris. by Shirley Hall I grow celery and, believe it or I grow celery and, believe it or

duction of male hormones, as well duction of male hormones, to regu- as potassium, which helps — not late the female thyroid gland and feel sexy per se, but you’ll look pretty good. not, this is also high in two essen- .

amor Embarrassed, he nevertheless procured Embarrassed, he nevertheless procured Dominica makes a rum purported to con-

Three more supposed aphrodisiacs are a bit off the But the king of all sexual stimulants is My husband first encountered bois bandé by lis- Get a bottle of clear over-proof rum. Cut the bois When the clear rum turns rusty-colored, it is ready. Bois bandé comes in several shapes and colors Sex has been big business since the beginning of Cinnamon Pumpkin Seeds 2 Cups fresh pumpkin seeds 2 Tablespoons butter 2 Tablespoons brown sugar 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon (freshly ground Rinse pumpkin seeds and allow to dry. Spread seeds Shirley Hall is the author of tial nutrients necessary for great sex, androsterone tial nutrients necessary for great sex, androsterone and adrostenol, which act as a sexual attractant when eaten. wall, but again are Trini favorites. Pumpkin seeds are good for your system because they contain a lot of zinc. The water from coconuts is high in vitamin C and has electrolytes. It is also a metabolism booster that increases blood flow. As Harry Belafonte sang, “Coconut water is good for your daughter…”. And of course there is the famous sea moss tonic. the bark or wood of a local tree. It can be difficult to the bark or wood of a local tree. It can be difficult to find because the trees have obviously been depleted in frenzied attacks. Since the advent of Europeans carousing the Caribbean and chasing local women, there have been rumors of a mountain brew of a tree bark, bois bandé, botanically Iron Wood. One side effect is that prostate cancer is Iron Wood. One side effect is that prostate cancer is extremely rare among the men who drink this herbal tea. I wonder who did the research? tening to a buddy who had heard The Mighty Sparrow sing its virtues (“Nothing keeps a woman happier than a man charged with bois bandé!”). As one of their cohorts was getting married, he and his friends decided it would be appropriate for the wedding-night festivities. Walking into the market in Castries, St. Lucia, they searched out the herbal section, which was then on the second floor. As he asked one vendor, she shouted, bandé!” the bark and got the instructions to make it work the best: bandé into slivers until they fit down the neck. Put in as much bois bandé as you can without eliminating too much rum. Then add some almonds, cloves, car- damom, and cinnamon. (See photo.) Drink a double shot three hours before bedtime and get ready for the sheets to rumble. Beware: it tastes horrible — or so I am told. It is reputed that you can hurt yourself seriously with an overdose. depending on the island. Grenada has its version of bois bandé, botanically Some use the bark; here in Trinidad we use the wood. The spices all add something to the kick and flavor. tain bois bandé, but the amount would be so slight that the effect of the alcohol would be the main cause of time. Aphrodisiacs followed close behind. They are as popular as ever today, but be careful: too much can hurt or worse, embarrass. if possible) on a baking and put in an oven at 300°F for about an hour. Carefully scrape the seeds into a suit- able mixing bowl and add butter, sugar and cinna- mon. Mix well, spread again on the baking sheet and return to a 350°F oven for ten to 15 minutes until golden brown. Might be an exciting snack! Home Garden Handbook.

Aphrodisiacs in in Aphrodisiacs Caribbean Foods Caribbean

for physical contact is the real deal with know this got your attention. Everyone know this got your attention. Everyone wants to know what will get your partner in the mood. Aphrodisiacs are foods or nutri- ents that supposedly stimulate sexual desire.

desire Avocadoes contain vitamin B6, which increases pro- Don’t forget good old garlic, which increases blood Local honey is available everywhere and is a love Another Hindu favorite is the chilli pepper. Since Nutmeg also grows locally and was believed to be the Trinidad is world famous for cocoa, and our choco- Cinnamon is common in the islands and its bark Another locally grown herb, sweet basil, has the Ginger is easily grown and is a definite stimulant for Aniseed will definitely grow in your herb garden Cardamom dates back to the Arabian nights. Cardamom dates back to the Arabian nights. Anyone can grow cilantro, the cousin of chadon beni, Here in the Caribbean there are some aphrodisiacs What really occurs in our body and brain to get us I flow and may result in increased stamina. appetizer because it is packed with fast-acting simple sugars — great for some instant energy. Trinidad now has the infamous most-potent Scorpion Pepper, look out! These are full of capsaicin, a body- temperature and heart-rate booster that can’t help but get you hot and bothered. king of aphrodisiacs, dating back thousands of years to the Hindu cultures. It was believed nutmeg’s warm- ing properties are the key. late is the ultimate for setting the mood. This bean contains a stimulant that gives you a natural high and a feeling of wellbeing. There is talk that dark chocolate is what causes men’s blood to flow…. heats up your body and your sex drive with anti- inflammatory properties. same reputation. It may be the aroma of sweet basil that has the power to stimulate the sex drive. the circulatory system. Eaten raw, preserved or the circulatory system. Eaten raw, preserved or cooked, it is said to increase sexual prowess. aboard or ashore, and can be used as a flavoring. According to the ancient Greeks and Romans, sucking the seeds increased libido; hence the anise-flavored alcohol, ouzo. It is easy to overdose on aniseed, so be careful. Cardamom is warming and pungent, and can increase Cardamom is warming and pungent, and can increase blood flow, which probably accounts for its fame. Its pods can be ground in hot water to make a tea, like a classic Indian chai. I recently started a cardamom plant from seeds bought in the market here in Trinidad. in a garden or in a pot on your boat. Coriander, the in a garden or in a pot on your boat. Coriander, the seed of the cilantro plant, has warming properties, which led to old wives’ tales of adding it to another perhaps aphrodisiac, avocado, in guacamole. that are reputed to work. Be careful, as there is no that are reputed to work. Be careful, as there is no definite dosage or definite response per individual, and a harmful overdose is possible. excited? There are aphrodisiacs that stimulate desire excited? There are aphrodisiacs that stimulate desire purely by influencing the mind; others increase blood flow in the sex organs, creating desire. There are also concoctions that make our bodies produce more of the chemicals or hormones associated with sexual desire. Then there are the inhibition reducers, such as alco- hol. Some researchers have discovered that certain foods and herbs affect our libidos, although according to the USFDA, aphrodisiacs have no scientific basis. While this may be true, many people swear by the effects of certain foods. Viagra and Calais are not aphrodisiacs — they sup- posedly improve performance, but do not create desire. The these centuries-old substances. Many aphrodisiacs can be grown in pots in the cockpit or in a galley that gets good sunlight. MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 Grenada-Grenadinen, St.Grenada-Grenadinen, Lucia,Guadeloupe Grenada-Grenadines, St. Lucia,Guadeloupe w.aiba-u.o www.karibikreisen.com www.caribbean-sun.com www.karibikreisen.com www.caribbean-sun.com FFORUM RREADERS' in theLloydsmarket. able tointroduceboatownersspecialist brokers with brokersandunderwritersatLloyds andam business for47years.Ihavedeveloped arapport Jacht mussingutemZustand seinmitmindestens Private JachtenmitCrew Two personscrewrequired. Johannes inGrenadaanrufen(473)4444717 I havebeenconnectedwiththemarineinsurance Private crewedyachts Yacht mustbeingoodconditionswithatleast 2 PersonenCrew. one cabinandseparate washroomforguests. saw theiradin to tellouradvertisersyou O E 1 KabineundeigenerNasszellefürGäste. wanted forcharters Call SabineinGrenada(473)4444717 für Chartergesucht ☛ e-mail: [email protected] R or [email protected] A “I’ll domybesttominimizeyourincrease!” oder [email protected] Thereisgoodinsurance,therecheap your insuranceisuntilyouhaveaclaim. Rather, thehonestbrokercanonlysay, No longercanbrokerstalkoflowrates. insurance,butthereisnogoodcheap The insurancebusinesshaschanged. insurance. Youneverknowhowgood U D www.street-iolaire.com

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Year roundincome. Compass ! Dear Florida Tito andRobertoFigueroa missed bythosevisitingtheGrenadines. across thechannel. French baguettesandgroceriesfromUnionIsland always askhimtobringusthosefreshlybaked hello andhaveafriendlychat.Ofcoursewewould pink-highlighted boatandhewouldcomeovertosay visited MayreauortheTobagoCayswewouldseehis We havemanyfondmemoriesofhim.Everytimewe friend Walton“Walter”Buddpassedawayrecently. Dear Answer?” inJanuary’s read intheJanuary2014issueof our formercruisingislandsandweresaddenedto ready touse. sure yachtswhichcarryanarsenalthatthecrewsare underway, includingthelargefleetofVenezuelanplea- armed andalertbeingsuccessfullyattackedwhile know therehasnotbeenacaseofboatthatwas defensive positionthananopenpiñero.AsfarasI dissuade them.Acruisingyachtmakesamuchbetter and needtogetcontrolquickly;firmresistancecan hide). Remember,piratesarelookingforeasytargets or 9mmlargercalibrepistols(lethalandeasyto 12-gauge shotguns(veryeffectiveatshortrange)and/ board motorwillsurelydistractthem. person, butputtingonenearthegasdrumandout- 60-litre drumsforgasoline.Aflaremightnotharma DSC, EPIRBsandotherPLDs. difficult forthemtoboard.PutoutaMayday,activate and weavetheboataroundatfullspeedtomakeit heads; iftheycontinuetocomestartfiringatthem show yourgun(s);ifitkeepscomingfireovertheir teethandreadytobite”). bigshipsarecloseifyoudon’thaveAIS. once theyareonboarditistoolate.Thismeans: conversant withtheplan. trained inthehandlingandfiringofweapons overboard, etcetera.Everyoneonboardshouldbe attacks justasyoushouldhaveplansforfire,man not enoughjusttohaveagun;youneedplanrepel walking nakedinSinCityonaSaturdaynight.Itis and Margarita. and LasAves.StayouttoseawellnorthofLosTestigos reported inthepast—namelyLaTortuga,LosRoques pirates in considered relativelysafe,beingmostlyoutofreach to theABCsandwesternCaribbean. boats wantingtogofromTrinidadortheGrenadines boats oraredeliverycrews,norisitconvenientfor always viableforpeoplewholivethere,runcharter- tive is,don’tgothere.Howeverthatoptionisnot pirates inVenezuelanwaters.Thefirstandmosteffec- ity ofbeingkilled,injured,and/orrobbedbyarmed READY TOBITE His smilingfaceandhelpfulwayswillbesurely MISSING WALTER In response to Ellen Birrell’s letter “Are Guns the In responsetoEllenBirrell’sletter“AreGunsthe We trytokeepintouchwithwhat’shappening I wouldsaythebestgunstohaveareautomatic • WoodenpiñerosandsomeGRPonesuseplastic • Ifapiñerocomesnear(100metres)waveitoffand • FlyaVenezuelanflag(thissays“Iamarmedtothe • Keepapermanent24-houron-deckwatch. • Don’tanchorforthenightexceptinmarinas. • Keepalllightsoffatnight;onlyturnthemonwhile • Keepwelloffshore,tenmilesormore. • Don’tadvertiseyourleavingtimesandroutes. The objectistostopthepiratesboarding,because To sailanywhereelseinVenezuelaunarmedislike For thelatter,asecondoptionistovisitonlyareas There arethreebasicoptionstoreducetheprobabil- Compass Compass piñeros , , andwhereattackshavenotbeen Compass : Gunsare CC thatourgood

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answer .

Dear www.sailboat-cruising.com S/Y Alacazam Dick McClary just ashorrifiedbyrecenteventsweare. of thelocalpeoplearefriendlyandwelcoming, priate, wemustalsorememberthatthevastmajority whatever counter-measuresweeachconsiderappro- bility ofoccurrenceforanyparticularoneus. remain isolatedincidentswitharelativelylowproba- around theWestIndies,thesehorrendousattacksstill into contextwiththenumberofyachtscruising may beindangerofover-reactingtothem.Whentaken West Indiesaltogether? arms; shouldweall?Idon’tthinkso!Ordoquitthe something I’dbeveryloathetodo.Somecarryfire- themselves beloweachnightwhenatanchor,whichis security arrangements. community isevenmoremindfuloftheirpersonal anchored offFrigateRock,UnionIsland,thecruising Christina Curtinaboard guilty, willbeappropriatelysentenced. charged withhismurderandpresumably,iffound sail intheCaribbean. remains attheforefrontofmindsalluswho no longerheadlinenewsintheinternationalpress,it Info &UpdatesintheJanuaryissueof Dear IN DANGEROFOVER-REACTING Sally Venezuelan watersis:don’tgothere. cally, theeasiestwaytoavoidarmedpiratesin with you,though,thatuntilthingstherechangeradi- folks justdon’twanttogetintoafirefight.Itotallyagree tactic, andalthoughrobbed,wereleftunharmed.Some Venezuelan pirates,usedthe“sitstillandbequiet” I’m not),weknowpeoplewhowereboardedby Hi Cris, Puerto LaCruz,Venezuela Cris Robinson lose atleasttakesomeofthemwithyou? wait tobekilledand/orraped,orfightbackandifyou if youwere—wouldrathermeeklysubmitand of awaterbottlemaybeKenwouldstillbealive. If Stevehadthrowntheattackersawarningshotinstead back immediatelybothcoupleswouldprobablybedead. ex-navy man,hadnotaguncloseathandtofire Members/sue/R2008-11-10-2), ifhisfriendSteve,an Borracha incidentin2008(seewww.noonsite.com/ —Continuedonpage45 lights on. daylight andaswelltheyachtsatnightwithanchor nighttime inCaribbeanbays! Attraction Roger Prattaboardhisanchoredsailboat — arealdanger! His anchorlightwasablinkingredlamp at themarkedposition,acatamaranwasanchored. In theentrancetoLeMarininMartinique, UNBELIEVABLE So althoughweshouldremainvigilantandtake Although revoltedbytheseatrocities,Ibelievewe But justhowfardowego?Iknowsomecrewslock Following sosoonaftertheviciousattackon Four St.Lucianationalshavebeenarrestedand While Irespectyouradvice(hey,you’reinVenezuela; I hopeyouareneverinsuchasituation,butimagine When KenPeterson On severaloccasionsIhavecountedtheyachtsby I’d liketoaddressthemessaboutanchorlightsat Whilst thebludgeoningtodeathofyachtsman Compass Compass [see“YachtsmanKilledinVieuxFort” , , Chill was killed in the Isla waskilledintheIsla S/V Rainbow Compass Magnetic whilst ] is MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39

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YAMAHA t I would not get any food’ I would not get ‘The captain told me that ‘The if I did not have sex with him, if I did not have sex with him, Letter of of Letter Month the , Compass Thanks Gina and crew, you were truly amazing to me! Fatima Caiuby I learned afterward that Trinidad & Tobago Immigration forbade the Dutch captain to ever return to the country I learned afterward that Trinidad & Tobago Immigration forbade the Dutch captain to ever return to the country I am very grateful to know such a wonderful woman as Gina Carvalho. Sometimes I wonder what would have I am very grateful to know such a wonderful woman as Gina Carvalho. Sometimes I wonder what would I received support and care in the safe hands of Gina and the entire staff of YSATT. Thanks to people like Gina I received support and care in the safe hands of Gina and the entire staff of YSATT. Thanks to people like Amazing! Immediately Gina contacted Immigration and called my boyfriend in Venezuela, who at the time I had Amazing! Immediately Gina contacted Immigration and called my boyfriend in Venezuela, who at the time I was completely broke and did not know anyone in Trinidad. Very frightened, I sought the help of Gina at at I was completely broke and did not know anyone in Trinidad. Very frightened, I sought the help of Gina I was in Venezuela for ten days waiting to return to Trinidad to work with the Dutch captain. When I returned I was in Venezuela for ten days waiting to return to Trinidad After the contract was done and reviewed by Immigration and the airline ticket purchased I went to Venezuela. After the contract was done and reviewed by Immigration The two captains reached an agreement. The Spanish captain would pay for my airline ticket and for hotel, food The two captains reached an agreement. The Spanish The next day, we all went to Immigration to explain that I would be signing off the Spanish boat and signing on The next day, we all went to Immigration to explain that When the Spanish captain from the first boat arrived, the Dutch captain spoke to him in English. The Spanish When the Spanish captain from the first boat arrived, I honestly did not see it, but the Dutch captain already had bad intentions. He took advantage of my naivety and I honestly did not see it, but the Dutch captain already While in Chaguaramas, I was offered another job. But first, I went back to the boat that I arrived on, as that While in Chaguaramas, I was offered another job. But Whil i Ch g I ff d th j b B t fi t I t b k t th b t th t I i d th My inexperience and naivety brought me many problems. First, before leaving Brazil, I signed a formal contract brought me many problems. First, before leaving Brazil, My inexperience and naivety One day a couple of Spanish sailors who were in Brazil with a broken autopilot responded to my ad and offered sailors who were in Brazil with a broken autopilot One day a couple of Spanish In 2007, I lived in a town on the northern coast of São Paulo in Brazil where I worked as a business consultant the northern coast of São Paulo in Brazil where I worked In 2007, I lived in a town on I am a 50-year-old Brazilian woman who graduated in Communications and Public Relations studies. I worked woman who graduated in Communications and Public I am a 50-year-old Brazilian after his departure. It seems that he had a history of luring women to his boat. I, apparently, was not the first after his departure. It seems that he had a history of luring women to his boat. I, apparently, was not the but woman that this happened to nor do I believe I was the last. This story could have had a very different ending I had the courage to stand up and seek help. become of me without help from Gina. She became a great friend and to this day, we still communicate via e-mail. become of me without help from Gina. She became a great friend and to this day, we still communicate via Gina taught me the power of human solidarity. and Catherine from the YSATT office, YSATT’s president Jane Peake, and Jesse James of Members Only Taxi, and Catherine from the YSATT office, YSATT’s president Jane Peake, and Jesse James of Members Only as a today I am very happy. I have a beautiful life, married to my love from Venezuela and currently working holistic therapist. just met, to see if he would pay my airfare out of Trinidad. Gina got me a hotel room for the night, food, a taxi to just met, to see if he would pay my airfare out of Trinidad. Gina got me a hotel room for the night, food, a lady the airport and cash for the departure tax, and took me down to Immigration and explained the situation. The also Immigration officer, who was extremely understanding, organized everything for my immediate departure and other discovered that the Dutch captain had never signed me on to the boat as crew. Gina took her car and with friends, went to retrieve my suitcase from the Dutch boat — she would not let me go alone to collect it. YSATT who was very helpful and was extremely caring and gentle. Gina sought a translator to understand my my YSATT who was very helpful and was extremely caring and gentle. Gina sought a translator to understand story and to see how she could help me. With the help from a Venezuelan as a translator, I explained everything that happened. to Trinidad, on the first day, the Dutch captain told me that the contract was a lie and that he wanted sex with to Trinidad, on the first day, the Dutch captain told inter- me. This revolted and upset me so much. I told him of my new boyfriend in Venezuela and that I was not sleep ested. The Dutch captain and I had a long discussion. By this time, it was night so I had no choice but to not on the boat. I locked my cabin door and the Dutch captain tried to force the door open. The next morning, I tried having eaten anything for many hours, I asked him to give me something to eat and a discussion ensued. him, I to explain to him that I would only do honest and gainful work. He told me that if I did not have sex with would not get any food. He even threatened me physically. While there I met the man who is now my current husband and great love, a seasoned navigator, who has spent While there I met the man who is now my current husband 30 years at sea. He is also Spanish. and other expenses while I waited for my return flight to Trinidad. We went to the office of the Yacht Services and other expenses while I waited for my return flight Marina, where I met Gina Carvalho, who explained to Association of Trinidad & Tobago (YSATT) at the CrewsInn the Spanish captain how and where to register the contract. as crew on the Dutch boat. Immigration would only allow me to sign on as crew if the boat was leaving immedi- as crew on the Dutch boat. Immigration would only allow leave the country and re-enter and then sign on to the Dutch ately. Under the circumstances, they requested that I to pay my expenses to leave the country so I could return boat as crew. Immigration forced the Spanish captain to crew on the Dutch boat. captain translated the conversation for me, but somehow came up with various excuses so as not to give me my captain translated the conversation for me, but somehow believing that I had gotten another job as a sailor. airline ticket to Brazil. But at this point, I was happy, offered me a job as a sailor. I explained that I had little experience, but he told me that it was not a problem and offered me a job as a sailor. I explained that I had little Unfortunately, my English was not good and I struggled to that he would teach me all that needed to be done. a contract and payment. understand him, but I stated I wanted honest work with captain was obligated to give me an airline ticket back to my country. When I returned to the first boat, no one captain was obligated to give me an airline ticket back gone to the supermarket. While waiting, the Dutch cap- was on board; the captain and another crewmember had invited me over to talk. So I went to talk with him, seeing tain of a neighbouring boat asked if I was in trouble and that we Brazilians make friends easily. with the captain of the boat that took me from Brazil to Trinidad, but I did not check to ensure that he had his that took me from Brazil to Trinidad, but I did not with the captain of the boat and Immigration in Trinidad surprise, the Spanish captain had an expired passport own papers in order. To my the autopilot, which included island. His boat had many other problems other than gave us 48 hours to leave the trip. a water intake. I realized that we had made a dangerous that I help them take their boat to Trinidad & Tobago. I accepted. The trip was 13 days underway from Brazil to boat to Trinidad & Tobago. I accepted. The trip was that I help them take their and tiring passage. helm every two or four hours. It was a very stressful Trinidad. I did shifts at the for the government and enjoyed surfing. Via the internet, I submitted my curriculum vitae to various sites to work surfing. Via the internet, I submitted my curriculum for the government and enjoyed qualifications did not give me some calls, but my lack of experience and lack of crew as crew on yachts. I received great opportunities. in the communications industry at marinas in Brazil. My father competed in many sailing races and I always liked at marinas in Brazil. My father competed in many in the communications industry of making long-haul sailings. boats and had big dreams Dear MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40

TBA 30 –11May 28 27 26 –2May 26 25 -30 25 22 (RBVIYC),tel(284)494-3286,[email protected],www.royalbviyc.org 21 19 –22 ofVenezuelanIndependence) 19 -21 19 VirginGorda.www.bvitourism.com 19 gogouyave.gd/events10/annual-events 18 -21 18 -20 andatPinney’sBeach,Nevis 18 17 –22 17 –21 YachtClub(BEYC),tel(312)506-6205, [email protected],www.beyc.com 15 14 -19 12 –13 (GYC),tel(473)440-6826,[email protected], 10 -13 www.grenadayachtclub.com 10 –11 www.rinconfilm.com 7 –13 7 –12 2 -6 APRIL (SpiritualBaptist“Shouter”LiberationDay) www.bvispringregatta.org 31 –6April tel(599)544-2075,[email protected],www.smyc.com 30 28 –30 27 –30 23 www.easyfairs.com/events_216/cartagena-boat-show 22 –24 www.cibspr.com 21 –23 20 –23 20 St.Patrick’sDayFestival,Grenada www.loropianasuperyachtregattaandrendezvous.com 19 -22 andatPinney’sBeach,Nevis 17 17 16 14 12 –16 10 tel(268)460-1799,[email protected],www.antiguayachtclub.com 10 8 –17 8 –12 (WEYC),tel(284)496-8685,[email protected] 8 –9 8 7 -10 6 -9 6 5 –9 andotherplaces 5 PuertoRico,Dominica,Carriacou,Trinidad&Tobago,Venezuela, www.heinekenregatta.com 4 3 –4 3 2 –9 2 –5 3 http://stbarthyachtclub.com 2 [email protected], 1 MARCH www.sailbarbados.com InternationalWomen’sDay GillCommodore’sCup,St.Maarten.www.heinekenregatta.com Publicholidayinmanyplaces(AshWednesday) BudgetMarineMatchRacingCup,St.Maarten. PublicholidayinBVI(H.LavityStoutt’sBirthday) PublicholidayinAnguilla(JamesRonaldWebsterDaycelebrated) RoyalistRegatta,Barbados.BarbadosSailingAssociation(BSA), PublicholidayinBarbados(National Heroes’Day) PublicholidayinDutchislands(NetherlandsKing’sBirthday) YachtingWorldRoundAntiguaRace.www.sailingweek.com GuadeloupetoAntiguaRace.www.sailingweek.com International EarthDay Publicholidayinmanyplaces(EasterMonday) VirginQueenPursuitRace,RoyalBritishIslandsYachtClub PublicholidayinVenezuela(SigningoftheAct Publicholiday inmanyplaces(GoodFriday) FULLMOONPartiesatTrellisBayandWestEnd,Tortola, PublicholidayinTrinidad&Tobago PoweradeRegatta,St.Maarten.MaartenYachtClub(SMYC), Vernal PublicholidayinGuyanaandSuriname(Phagwah) PublicholidayinMontserrat(St.Patrick’sDay); Equinox FULLMOONPartiesatTrellisBayandWestEnd,Tortola, PublicholidayinSt.Vincent&theGrenadines(NationalHeroes’Day) PublicholidayinBelize(BenefactorsDaycelebrated) PublicholidayinBVI(CommonwealthDay) VirginQueenPizzaPursuitRace,BVI.RBVIYC CuraçaoInternationalFilmFestival.www1.curacaoiffr.com 34thSt.Maarten HeinekenRegatta.www.heinekenregatta.com niu nulLsrOe.AtgaYctCu AC, AntiguaAnnualLaserOpen.YachtClub(AYC), 6thAnnualSouthGrenadaRegatta.www.southgrenadaregatta.com CarnivalMondayandTuesdayinmostDutchFrenchislands,Haiti, CuraçaoYouthChampionship,Curaçao.http://ysco.org TobagoFestivalofWinds(kiteboarding,windsurfing,paddleboarding) AnnualDark&StormyRegatta,Anegada,BVI. WestEndYachtClub uroRc nentoa imFsia,Rnó,Pet io PuertoRicoInternationalFilmFestival,Rincón,Rico. OysterRegatta,Antigua.www.oystermarine.com/events St.Patrick’sFestival,Montserrat.www.visitmontserrat.com CaribbeanArts&CraftsFestival,Tortola,[email protected] oyv atrRgta rnd. St.BarthFilmFestival.www.stbarthff.org VirginGordaEasterFestival.www.bvitourism.com GouyaveEasterRegatta,Grenada. SpanishTownFishermanJamboree&WahooFishingTournament, 5thAnnualLesVoilesdeSaint-Barth.www.lesvoilesdesaintbarth.com AnnualBVIYachtBrokerageShowcase,VirginGorda.BitterEnd CaribbeanSuperyachtRendezvous,VirginGorda. at thetimethisissueof TobagoJazzExperience. www.tobagojazzexperience.com AntiguaClassicYacht Regatta. BequiaEasterRegatta. GirlPatRaceSeriesinGrenada.GYC TrinidadtoGrenadaRaceforGirlPatTrophy.YachtClub St.ThomasInternationalRegatta,USVI.www.rolexcupregatta.com St.BarthsBucketRegatta.www.bucketregattas.com/stbarths PuertoRicoJazzFest.http://prheinekenjazz.com CaribbeanFineArtFair,Barbados.www.cafafair.com atgn nentoa otSo,Clmi Cartagena InternationalBoatShow,Colombia Caribbean InternationalBoatShow,PuertodelRey,Rico. Carnival SailingRegatta,SaintBarthYachtClub,[email protected], 47thAnnualAntiguaSailingWeek.www.sailingweek.com so pleasecontacteventorganizersdirectly forconfirmation. V pigRgta&SiigFsia,Troa BVISpringRegatta&SailingFestival,Tortola. 24thSt.LuciaJazzFestival.www.stluciajazz.org All informationwascorrecttothebestof ourknowledge If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismevent listedFREE and contactinformationoftheorganizing bodyto in ourmonthlycalendar,pleasesendthe name and date(s)oftheeventname [email protected] CALENDAR Compass See adonpage13 went topress—butplanschange, See adonpage15 —Continuedonnextpage boat’s location.Noconsensusonthat— eithermakesmostsaltsangry. having nolightonatnightversus astrobeorflashinglighttoshowyour morning networks,andhaveinstigated some cockpitdebatesastowhichisworse: are lit,ornotatnight.I’veheardstrong argumentsontheissueevenlocal but keepturningourwheelortillertostarboard. Belize,herewecome. maintaining itonlyinreferencetoourboat. Regardless,thereisnothingforustodo reference thanourboatonthehorizon, thinkshe’smaintaininghiscourse,butis again. Nowonderfirearmsarediscourageddownhere! from mydestination,andtheotherboatchangesdirectiontoheadrightatcourse potential head-oncollision,Imakealarge,obviouscorrection,downwindandaway ing theirown,alsocameup. painters causingcongestionandpooreffortsatretyingother’safterextricat- return theirpropellertothewater.Otherdinghydocketiquette,includingshort Buddha, asItrespassintotheotherdinghyandsmilethroughkindthoughts, as I prises, thisseemsrathermalicious.Me?Itrytoremembertheteachingsof the the nextguy,comingintodockinaninflatable,priceofwhichalwayssur- assume thisisdoneoutofhabitortoincreasethelifetheiroutboardanodes. To the boatsundermycontrol,professionalskipperornot. back undercontrol.Frankly,ifIranacharterbusiness,I’doutlawthepractice for the travelerfouledormainsheetcaughtonsomething,andhavetofightboat have muchstakeinthesituation.Evenmostexperiencedsailorcanstill from otherboats,and,worseyet,theymaybechartererswhodon’towntheboat to powered up,theboatrangingbackandforthtowrenchattheirwindlassjust feet however, thiscompletelistofsafetyrequirementsisignored,andtheirmainsail is any emergency,itcanstillbeunnervingwhenyourboatisapotentialtarget.Often, can’t powerup,ANDwiththeirengine(s)runningsomeoneatthecontrolsfor winds reasonablylight,theirtravelerloose,lotsofmainsheetletoutsothatthemain boat atanchor.)Evenwhenthisisdoneproperly,inanuncrowdedanchorage,with crowded anchorage.(Thesailorwhosharedthisonegothithardbyapowered-up way intoeachanchorage. us togetintothehabitofplacingourfendersoutoneachsidecockpits see howimportantitmightbetous,whoseemhavemade.Itmaytimefor isn’t myproblem”.Inanycasethey’reright;andfromtheirperspective,theycan’t my runabout”or“Noproblem;thatdingisn’tgoingtosinkyou…”“Hey,itjust say “Noproblem!”Weareneversureiftheymean,“Don’tworryaboutthedamageto our mistakeshereandmanyofusarestillatit. obvious, andisanarticleallbyitself,foranotherday.Ialsobelievewehavemade ber oneonthe“whatbugsyou”list(aftercantankerousboatequipment),itistoo or puttingasternanchoroutincrowdedanchorage.Althoughanchoringisnum- planning toarriveafterdark,orimmediatelyabandoningtheirboatanchoring, Here aresomeofthemostpopular: refuse tocooperatewiththeirplans.Iwassurprisedbysome,althoughnotmost. in theCaribbean,besidestheirVolvosandYanmarsotherboatpartsthat have askedmysmallcircleoffriendstotellmewhatreallybugsthemwhilecruising related rituals.Still,theideaintriguedmeandI’veattemptedanexplorationofit.I memory ofthediscussionisratherfuzzy,asitwaswellaftersundownand borders ontheirrationalinregardtocertainsituationscruisersencounter.My stumbled intoadiscussionabouthowmanyofusexperienceangerthatsometimes wasn’t mespillingredwine,althoughIdid.)Afterheregainedhiscomposure,we thing cameupthatsentmyhostovertheedgetodarksideweallhave.(It dow intoourownpsyches. lation mightbeinformative,entertaining,andmayevenopenalittlewiderthewin- material, andthatthepatronswouldrathernotreadit.However,Ihopethiscompi- • Anchorlights. Possibly whatishappeningthatthe other sailor,handsteeringwithno • Givingwayatsea. • Dinghiesatacrowdeddockwiththemotorsupandsharppropellersexposed. I • Sailors,rightbesideus,whoputtheirmainsailupwhilestillatanchorina • Localyachtservicepeople,or“boatboys”,whodingthesideofyourboat,then • Otherboatersanchoringontopofyou,ornotreallyknowinghowtoanchor, I cameupwiththisideawhen,duringavisittoanothersailor’scockpit,some- I amawarethat,forthemostpart,editorwouldrathernotpublishnegative Cruisers Crazy! What Drives

Many peopleareoutragedbythewayanchored ormooredboats WHAT’S ONMYMIND…

My own“angrysituation”iswhen,onporttackandfacinga

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KRISTIN HUNTER Well, the Admiral don’t

, but boy, the things we see. We become arrives in the Bay with a feeling of coming This came from an “admiral” who had to get . The rules in some of these areas are either areas are either The rules in some of these

Cat Tales Cat Tales Many sailors say they avoid or cut short their visits to . S/V Cat Tales. I’m a little surprised that wind generators are not given a little more accep- I’m a little surprised that wind generators are not given

Continued from previous page Continued from Article by Laurie Corbett, I think it is okay for us cruising visitors to have some issues in the Caribbean. • Jet skis in Rodney Bay • Sailors and their guests peeing off the back of the boat. • Emergency flares on New Year’s Eve noisy, smelly portable gen- • Noisy wind generators in crowded anchorages, and • People who fish in marine parks. • People who fish in marine Some cruisers are lighting their boats with flashers specifically meant to pin to with flashers specifically meant are lighting their boats Some cruisers We have been in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica when a boat behind us carried a when a boat behind in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica We have been off. Some find the radios annoying, some can’t sleep • Sailors who turn their radios Maybe this life is so great that our sensitivity to issues increases, or maybe we all need the full gamut of emotions to be healthy, and we’ll always have some negative passion. Even with the sunsets, the easy life, the perfect friends and our constant study of philosophy here, it still may be necessary for us to feel strongly about some- thing. Or maybe these are real issues. They are real to those who suggested them. When somebody says “Oh, don’t get me started!” — then don’t get them started. I’m sure they’ll be fine company otherwise. home — and soon leaves with relief. Many tourists enjoy renting these machines and using our homes as traffic cones, weaving in and out, barely missing each other, and being amazedly gratified to pay for an activity that requires absolutely no talent or responsibility. Truth is, this is a competing activity that also brings the island money, and we may just have to accept that. Certainly, we ought to do more to thank those other island jurisdictions where this activity is not allowed. rather insensitive to it after a while. Still, I was shocked last January, when a middle- aged lady squatted on the lowest step of a giant catamaran that had anchored almost on top of us. It wasn’t that she was only 40 feet away and was happy to be our breakfast entertainment, or that she seemed otherwise quite the proper lady. I knew that the boat had four toilets, and she didn‘t seem pressed for time. Well, you seldom successfully fight cultural differences, and often this is the issue. this otherwise delightful destination because of the noise, waves, fear of collision, and unsafe swimming waters. cotton to that kinda stuff on tance as a “green” source of energy, especially in comparison to the portable genera- tors. Still, the portable generators are just a way to solve a problem and a little toler- ance might be justified. With further discussion we learned that the complainant’s primary objection is to the noise (and smell of the generator) being an irritant during sundowners. Is nothing sacred? He made me feel a little guilty about my own wind- mill, but hey! — it is making ice, a very useful item during sundowners, so mine will be running. erators. out of bed and fill buckets of water as these dangerous projectiles landed around her out of bed and fill buckets of water as these dangerous into the wind over top of the boat. The nut in question was shooting from his boat falling into your sail- other boats at anchor. Imagine dripping, glowing, phosphorus to consider giving their old bag. Happy New Year! We ought to encourage these people clear that her preference was flares to the local fishermen. The complainant made it in the revelers’ fundaments. to have the triggers pulled with the barrels well braced lifejackets. Isn’t this a little dastardly? If these flashing lights are regularly used to dastardly? If these flashing lights are regularly used lifejackets. Isn’t this a little to avoid, we must pity the poor abandoned swimmer delineate hazards on the water hope that his/her flashing light might be his/her in the lifejacket, hoping against that these cruisers have not thought of this. salvation. It is kinder to believe super-bright flashing masthead light that was eerily similar to the light on the tower was eerily similar to the light masthead light that super-bright flashing with a bright Admiralty Bay to see a boat and we have been in near Rollo Point; Table reef. I’d light at the edge of the Devil’s not totally unlike the nightlight flashing if someone runs in an anchorage because more evil than an unlit boat say that this is and shares boat is part of the wreckage, unlit boat, at least the unlit hard into the flashing NON-aid who is misguided by a Not so, the poor person in the bad karma. and finds himself on a reef. to navigation, calling out all night from Fort de France. Still, turning with the “Appelle a Tous” girl “I’ll be there for you if you’ll be there for me”; the radio off violates the agreement: fast radio on, I can’t tell you that your boat is dragging and if you don’t have your who brought this one up, I’ve chased thieves off my boat into the reef. Like the fellow when I tell the anchorage that they might expect and found no one else listening the Caribbean set up morning nets on VHF68, maybe company. As more bays in very to monitor this channel 24/7. There appears to be more of us will be willing and still a security issue might be dealt with. little chatter on it after dark, — by from some observations. When you are asked confusing or simply un-enforced, be your boat in a marine protected area, it is easy to fishermen with nets to move Tobago Cays, the rangers are openly asking for assis- confused. At least, in the local or transient, who harm the coral, fish, or wildlife. tance to apprehend anyone, That is clarity. 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for conversiontofi REMEMBER eoeafter before Valued atUS$45K 110 USgal. Beam: Stainless.com Stainless.com 50 USgal. 9.” 9’.6” shing boat. shing Compass Draft: 3’ ! MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 US$190,000 59’ Herreshoff Bounty 59’ for worldwide cruising. www.yachttamasha.com www.yachttamasha.com FOR SALE E-mail [email protected] Market Place Market GRP, built in New Zealand 1980. Full inventory GRP, You discover the whole world with your own eyes, the whole world with your You discover universe. to be in touch with the Sailing is a way the true opportunity to appreciate You have the naked in you the opportunity to swim Sailing gives your reach. the whole world within Sailing is having and you will be able to take thousands of pictures. able to take thousands of and you will be and the stars, the full moon, the sunrise, beauty of the sunsets. island. an isolated paradise “Nana” Quintero Luz Adriana Adverse Conditions Readers, , Compass Compass In the interest of context, we must mention that “the of context, we must mention In the interest MY LITTLE INSPIRATION about sailing. Here are This is my little inspiration sailing is that you areTo me the best thing about When you are sailing you can dress yourself in a bathing You don’t need a special date to make a party; you Almost all the time your neighboring sailors easily You meet great people from all over the world, and You have a lot of time to develop artistic skills that You can be lazy or busy, and nobody is going to Dear incident was in St. Lucia is that this word on the beach” of rob- random boarding for the purpose possibly not a result of a might have been the tragic bery, but rather happen something (we hope) that doesn’t love triangle, will ever cruiser. And of course nobody to the average side of the man’s (Lucas François’) hear the drowned has been in Eric, a French national, story. Regardless, other cruis- for nearly two years, and jail awaiting trial the wheels of justice grind ers should be aware that your boat is boarded, if slowly. Even in a case where ensues and you are the death or injury of a boarder charged and your jail stay implicated, you may well be trial could be a painfully in the islands while awaiting national with a boat, you’d long one. (Being a foreign risk, and not get bail.) We likely be considered a flight comes soon. hope that Eric’s day in court CC Dear from the viewpoint of some good things about sailing, who has been sailing for a very positive woman sailor the globe twice, and many years, has circumnavigated the Caribbean islands has been sailing up and down many times. with all your things. In atraveling in your own house few hours’ sailing you are in a new country — in your own home! suit, or with some comfortable shorts and T-shirts, or a pareo wrap, or stay in your undies — and always barefoot. invite your neighbors and cheer the sunset. become part of your family. If you have any problem with your neighbor, you just raise your anchor and move to another spot. friendships start very easily. You learn amazing things and acculturate yourself by learning new languages and new gastronomy. you never know that you had before sailing. bother you about it.

was moored in Protinus …Reader’s Forum …Reader’s . Protinus , Compass Continued from page 38 Continued from We feel upset and revolted. After staying quiet for Fortunately Eric has a strong character. He sailed We have a friend who lost his freedom. Eric Sommer We have a friend who lost his We all know the variety of anchor lights, ranging the variety of anchor lights, We all know Those showing anchor lights are less than 50 per- anchor lights are less than Those showing months, according to the advice of Eric’s lawyer we months, according to the advice of Eric’s lawyer we now want his story to be known. We hope there will be justice for Eric Sommer. We have just created a peti- tion: www.avaaz.org/en/petition/Kenny_Anthony_ Prime_Minister_of_Saint_Lucia_West_Indies_Free_ Eric_Sommer_1/?eyVUNgb. Irmtrud Degaudenzi-Bongartz and Pascal Degaudenzi [email protected] around the world as a single-handed sailor on his 30-metre ketch, Rodney Bay, Pigeon Island, until November 2013, when friends were asked by Eric, his father and the French Consul to bring the boat to his home harbor in Bequia. was confronted in May 2012 by a local man coming was confronted in May 2012 Pigeon Island, St. Lucia. aboard his sailing vessel off confrontation. Eric They had a verbal, non-violent who decided to dive managed to impress his aggressor, the beach by swimming. overboard to get back to Eric was taken in by Unfortunately this man drowned. on the 12th of May 2012. the police for questioning in St. Lucia, waiting Since that day he is imprisoned is still not deliv- for the process: the act of accusation of the French Consulate ered in spite of the intervention and counsel engaged by his father, who is very worried about how long his son can stand these conditions. In October the court fixed the date for the accusation on January 23rd, 2014. This date was cancelled. from illuminated masts, to flashing Christmas trees, to masts, to flashing Christmas from illuminated a range less LED garden-lamps with cheap Chinese was in the The worst I ever saw than 1/8 mile. on page Marin, Martinique (see picture entrance to Le a catamaran position (red/yellow), 38). On the marked light was a red lamp blink- was on anchor. His anchor what happened with ing every two seconds. I wonder a real danger, at this posi- this brainless skipper! He is tion as well any place else. Peter Saula S/Y PESA20 HE LOST HIS FREEDOM Dear cent. Think about it. cent. Think about — MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 [email protected] www.aviationcms.com E-mail: props w/over60speedprops. Bravo 1drives.40MPHcruise hauled byMercurydealer, 502 marineenginesover- shower(s), VaccuFlush,Mercury leather incabin,galley, Grenada. Gen-Set,A/C,white speedboat isavailablein POWERBOAT 47’ JAVELIN/FOUNTAIN [email protected] 3474/495-4930 E-mail: efficiency. Tel:(784)454- inboard engines,greatfuel SPECIAL CALYPSO MARINEV-34 com Tel:(784)457-3362 E-mail: vthadley@vincysurf. com Tel:(784)433-3334 E-mail: pukasail51@hotmail. Lying BlueLagoon,St.Vincent. condition. Idealforchartering. 4 en-suitedblcabins.Ingood Newly re-builtPerkins90HP, 50’ BENETEAUM5001989 Tel: (758)4528531 49,900US E-mail: [email protected] 198334ftVINDÖ45 1987IRWIN44MKII95.000US 2001Bavaria46/3130.000US Cardinal46cc165.000US 1992 WARWICK 2002BENETEAU505175.000US 2003GibSea51185.000US DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO P# DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATIONPG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER riigLf SG 33 19 MP SVG MP Curaçao 38 St.Lucia Martinique MP MP Grenada MP Curaçao Marine MP Cruising Life 14 MP Crown Foods 28 2 SVG SVG Martinique16/MP Corea's FoodStoreMustique Clippers Ship Trinidad MP SintMaarten SVG Caribbean Sun Caribbean PropellersLtd. Trinidad MP SVG St.Maarten Caribbean MarineElectrical SVG 28 Caribbean Diesel 22 MP Caraibe Marine Captain Gourmet Grenada Budget Marine 27 29 Grenada Boat Paint&Stuff Antigua Blue LagoonHotel&MarinaLtd SVG Bequia Marina 15 Basil’s Bar MP Antigua Barefoot YachtCharters C/W B &CFuelDock Assurances MaritimesAntilles St. Maarten Antigua Art Fabrik Art &Design Antigua ClassicRegatta Anjo Insurance Aero TechLab , 2xYanmardiesel FORSALE

This luxury SVG 23 ENDEAVOUR 40 [email protected] sailing. US$48,000OBO. Medical problemstopsme aboard. LyingFajardoPR. Solid boat,wonderfullive- els, manyextrasandspares. RIB, SSB,Aerogen6,solarpan- cruiser. Greatmotor&sails, ble centercockpitocean CSY 441979 [email protected] 8828/457-4477 E-mail considerably Tel:(784)582- Must Sell,pricesreduced DIVE BOAT42’ head,swim platform/ladders stereo, deckshower/ passengers, largehardtop, hp YanmarTurbo,seats20 38FT BOWEN [email protected] Tel: (784)528-7273E-mail: the markettoday! Cheapest Sundanceron sels, 1992 42’ SEARAYSUNDANCER E-mail: [email protected] Will tradeforrealestate. wind generator,electronics. complete w/solarpanels, cockpit, cruisingready, excellent condition. excellent condition. withCaterpillardie- LEAVE PORT WITHOUTIT DON‘T Safedependa- w/cabin, 2x300 w/cabin,2x300 US$60,000 US$60,000 Center E-mail: E-mail: oar nepie U 32/38 11 28 48 34 SintMaarten 8 UK MP 21 SVG USA 37 MP Grenada Island WaterWorld St.Lucia Grenada MP 33 SVG Iolaire Enterprises Hotwire Enterprises Grenada Grenadines Sails MP Trinidad Grenadine AirAlliance MP 15 Grenada Tourism 32 Tortola Grenada Marine C/W Golden Taste PuertoRico Golden HindChandlery SVG Gittens Engines Trinidad 4 Free CruisingGuides USA Food Fair 37 Fernando's Hideaway 36 Farjardo Canvas MP International Electropics Trinidad Tortola 27 Edward WilliamInsurance MP Echo Marine St.Lucia Grenada Doyle's Guides St.Maarten 17 MP Doyle OffshoreSails Dominica Down IslandRealEstate Doolittle's Restaurant Martinique Dominica YachtServices Dockwise YachtTransport Diesel Outfitters [email protected] [email protected] Tel: (784)493-9494E-mail: towables, paddleboards,etc. beach equipmentwaterskis, selection ofwatersportsand Johnson OB,EC$1000.Alsoa dinghy, EC$2500,28hp RIB dinghy,EC$1500,12’hard + crew,EC$60,000.Also12’ Seats 14passengersor8divers w/2x85hp YamahaOBs. 25’ GLASSBOTTOMEDDIVEBOAT [email protected] 48hp. 5,200hrs.E-mail: 2013, genoa2012,Yanmar new dinghy,rigging generators, servicedlife-raft, Watermaker, solar/wind used, readytoliveaboard. regularly serviced,lightly 42.1 1995, JEANNEAU SUNODYSSEY E-mail: [email protected] Great valueatUS$260,000. chartering intheWindwards. world cruising.Presently Also idealforaroundthe built forbluewatersailing. fast moderndayschooner ing engine,5cabins.Thisisa equipment renewed,includ- by owner,nearlyallmajor OCEAN 60 [email protected] (868) 684-7720E-mail:lde- guides. USD$85000.00Tel: his Caribbeancruising by ChrisDoylefamousfor ter boats"Tikanot"isowned easy tosail,oneofhersis- ing catamaran.Fastand design, lightweightcruis- 41’ ROGERSIMPSON owned since 2000, owned since2000, ADVERTISERS INDEX Well maintained Well maintained CLASSIFIEDS

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MARCH 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47

Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago