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C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS JULY 2013 NO. 214 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore ANTIGUA WEEK 2013 TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM

See story on page 16 JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 The Caribbean’s www.budgetmarine.com Leading Chandlery FUN WATER family! Outrageous funforthewhole for 1–3riders. by Kwiktekavailable Airhead andSportstufftowables Get readyforawildride! Towables ARUBA CURAÇAO BONAIRE ST. THOMAS ST. THOMAS ST. CROIX ST. CROIX TORTOLA NANNY CAY GRENADA GRENADA ST. MARTIN ST. MAARTEN/ TRINIDAD ST. MARTIN ST. MAARTEN/ TRINIDAD US$ STARTING AT: ANTIGUA ANTIGUA KWI/ $65.39 • Towbarcanbequicklyremoved • Keepstowropeabovethewake • Forallbrandsofoutboardmotor • Safelyprotectsmotor • Fueleconomy • Savesupto20hp ANTIGUA •ARUBABONAIRE •CURAÇAOGRENADA •ST. CROIX•ST. MAARTEN•ST. MARTIN•ST. THOMAS•TORTOLATRINIDAD ski boat! Tubing/Wakeboard Towor an outboardintoarealfun transform almostanyboatwith TurboSwing isthesolutionto US$ STARTING AT: TRB/100 $633.55 STANDUPPADDLEBOARDS on thewater! it’s agreatnewwaytoenjoyday Fun, easy,andfantasticexercise, world’s fastestgrowingwatersport. Stand uppaddleboardingisthe in bamboofinishorcolorstriped. Your choiceoffiberglassboards Caribbean DutyFreeListPrices.Checkyourlocalstoreforfinalpricing. US$ STARTING AT: $635.60 BM/SUP 30 minutes. water atadepthof6.6feetfor underwater. Ratedtosealout photographs andvideo to thebeach.Swim,take time, notjustwhenyouaregoing Protect yourvaluablesallthe iphone andipadlikeaskin! Proof, ShockProofandfitsyour Water Proof,DirtSnow iPhone andiPadProtection US$ STARTING AT: LFP/LPI $88.00 DEPARTMENTS Info & Updates ...... 4 The Caribbean Sky ...... 33 Business Briefs ...... 7 Book Review ...... 34 Eco-News ...... 10 Cooking with Cruisers ...... 37 Meridian Passage ...... 11 Readers’ Forum ...... 38 Regatta News...... 14 Calendar of Events ...... 41 All Ashore… ...... 20 Caribbean Market Place .....42 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Fun Page ...... 30 What’s on My Mind ...... 45 Salty’s Beat ...... 31 Classified Ads ...... 46 www.caribbeancompass.com Cruising Kids’ Corner ...... 32 Advertisers’ Index ...... 46

JULY 2013 • NUMBER 214 Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, G. LALSINGH St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410 [email protected] Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71 Mob: + 596 696 74 77 01 www.caribbeancompass.com [email protected] Editor...... Sally Erdle Panama: Distribution - Shelter Bay Marina [email protected] www.shelterbaymarina.com Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre Puerto Rico: Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo

MAURICE HOWLAND [email protected] Olga Diaz de Peréz, Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: (787) 863 5282 Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected] [email protected] St. Lucia: Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720-8432 [email protected] [email protected] Accounting...... Shellese Craigg St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: [email protected] Ad Sales & Distribution - Stéphane Legendre Compass Agents by Island: Mob: + 590 690 760 100 Antigua: Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch [email protected] Tel (268) 720-6868, [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Distribution - Bryan Lezama Turtle Talk Barbados: Distribution - Doyle Sails Reptiles at sea ...... 12 Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Colombia: Distribution - Marina Santa Marta Ad Sales - Shellese Craigg www.igy-marinasantamarta.com/en [email protected] Tel: (784) 457-3409 Standing By Curaçao: Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao Distribution - Doc Leslie Tel: (784) 529-0970

Help on hand in T&T ...... 19 [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Tortola/BVI: Distribution - Gladys Jones JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Tel: (284) 494-2830 Fax: (284) 494-1584 ZSUZSANNA PUSZTAI Dominica: Ad Sales & Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, Trinidad: Sales & Distribution [email protected] David Bovell, Tel: (868) 497-1040 Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: [email protected] Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Venezuela: Ad Sales - Patty Tomasik Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 A Sneaky Leak [email protected] [email protected] Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. Got loose juice? ...... 24 See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. ©2013 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short Marley excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. Breathless in Bonaire ...... 22 A cruiser’s night out ...... 28 ISSN 1605 - 1998

Cover photo: Antigua Sailing Week 2013. The granddaddy of Caribbean regattas still kicks — and photographer Tim Wright clicks

Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore.

‘The Compass is an open-minded Caribbean magazine that I thoroughly enjoy reading, especially the destination articles, and thoughts and advice from other cruisers.’ Liesbet Collaert S/V Irie

Click Google Map link below to fi nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078&spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 concrete-and-steel pilechannelmarkersinPricklyBay,Grenada. &Updates Info As thisissueof Nav LightMissinginPricklyBay,Grenada Compass goestopress,thelightismissingfromoneofsolid to thevisitorswhowishcomeMarinaBas-du-FortinPointeàPitre. maintenance iscompleted. side ofthebridge.Thedecisionhasbeenmadetoleavebridgesdowntill technical faults,sometimestheywouldnotopenanduserswereblockedoneither another year. as thebridgesarenowclosedandexpectedtoremainforatleast informed usthatboaterscannolongerusetheshortcutthroughRivièreSalée, information onBudgetMarineseeadpage2. tank availabilityintheirvariousstorelocations. tanks andproofofpurchasefromonetheirstores.Thisofferissubjecttopropane stock. Youarerequiredtobringoneoftheirlocationsanyempty“LiteCylinder” which equatestoa35-percentdiscountonallaluminumandcompositetanksin insolvent. Theywilloffertoselltheircustomersanynewpropanetankclosecost, discontinue usingthesetanksimmediately. Recall Order.” and distributorsfortheexpensesincurredincomplyingwiththisEmergency financially insolventandwillnotbeabletorecompensecylinderowners,dealers in USDOT–PHMSAEmergencyOrderNo.2013-002.Furthermore,thecompanyis and unabletoreceivecylindersreturnedpertheinstructionsdetailed and iscurrentlyevaluatingitslegaloptions.Thecompany’sfacilitynowclosed “Please beadvisedthatTheLiteCylinderCompanyisnolongerinbusiness (Lite Cylinder).Thefullrecallorderisavailableathttp://go.usa.gov/bbyV. mandating arecallofcylindersmanufacturedbyTheLiteCylinderCompany,Inc. (868) 714-1280. metres aroundtherig. 60°46’50W inmid-June,andisexpectedtobeatthesitethroughearlyAugust. Trinidad andinstalledontheBlock22CassraNWwellsitenorthofTobagoat11°29’32N, when navigatinginPricklyBayatnight. being takentoreplaceit,butmeanwhilebewareoftheunlitsolidchannelmarker apparently hitbyavesselandthesolarlightontopofitwasdamaged.Stepsare The MarinaBas-du-Fortmanagerapologizesforthismajorinconveniencecaused The bridgesneedseriousmaintenancework,andbecausetherehavebeensome Ariane GrafofMarinaBas-du-Fortreports:TheAuthoritiesGuadeloupehave Guadeloupe BridgesRemainClosed For moreinformationonIslandWaterWorldseeadpage48,andfor Both companiesareofferinglimitedassistance,astheLiteCylinderCompanyis Island WaterWorldandBudgetMarineareadvisingalltheircustomersto However theLiteCylindercompanyhasissuedfollowingstatement: The UnitedStatesDepartmentofTransportationhasissuedanemergencyorder ‘Lite’ PropaneTanksRecalled For moreinformationcontacttheCentricaEnergyCommunityRelationsOfficeron During drillingoperations,marineusersshouldobservetheSafetyZoneof500 The DiamondOffshoreOceanLexingtondrillingrigwastowedfromChaguaramas, Notice: OilDrillingRigNorthofTobago The pilefarthestawayfromtheBigFishRestaurantatSpiceIslandMarinewas —Continued onnextpage JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 • A friend reports: MOTT GREEN (born David Friedman), founder at the Grenada Friedman), founder at the MOTT GREEN (born David • A friend reports: soup kitchens. living in NYC, and ran out of college, took up “squat” Mott dropped Grenada Chocolate was Mott. He made and mar- Mott was Grenada Chocolate, was a free spirit. He did all that his task required, but Though bound to his task, Mott “Every time I went up there he had done... something Some are at a loss for words. traveler in the fine-chocolate world. There is now a Mott was also an international though Mott, days The store’s selection of Grenada Chocolate was low even “Respect for Mott?” “You understand.” “I understand.” Update: Second Life Sails for Haiti conduit for getting cruisers’ As mentioned last month, Second Life Sails serves as a Chocolate Company, died by accidental electrocution on June 1st, while working electrocution on June 1st, died by accidental Chocolate Company, transportation. chocolate during overseas machinery for cooling on solar-powered to to sail Grenada Chocolate process of modifying a He was in the deliveries done well over 60 chocolate islands. He had already other Caribbean strong a rough channel with a to Carriacou, 20 miles across from Grenada sailing and stuff in a small boat. Wild — adventurous aboard his 13-foot favorite leisure. fishing were his good. And it he was doing so much his family to get mad because It was hard for lost interest in American society and NYC winters are made him feel good. But he in, became a citizen. cold. He found Grenada, settled it, lived and breathed it — he literally lived in the keted chocolate, ate it, drank invented, equipped, reinvented, and expanded. He chocolate factory, which he from scratch and taught his partners, learned and practiced chocolate-making Grenada Chocolate is now recognized among the workers, farmers, and others. drove his total involvement over many years world’s best. His sense of responsibility 12 what a loss. The Grenada Chocolate cooperative has and would drive him still — should be hundreds. organic farms. Mott felt there calls him a “Jewish anarchist chocolatier”. Of his Hobie did it his way. One account him deliveries to Carriacou, one might say “ill advised”; to Cat sailing and chocolate one of his favorite things. He found Grenada safe it was a “wild, rough ride”, abandon”. enough to live life with “reckless energetic, imaginative, determined, dedicated, amazing.” Amazing, enthusiastic, words fit, along with likeable and caring. hard working, all sorts of good inspired by the success of his vision, enabled by flurry of micro-chocolate makers — Mott had to invent and small-batch chocolate machinery that didn’t exist before maybe they should give him build his own. Mott dropped out of engineering school; Grenada. a degree anyway. Mott’s contributions reach far beyond us. I asked the cashier if peo- before his death, had sailed the wild waters to restock ple were buying more. She nodded. for repurposing materials old sails to traditional fishermen in Haiti who have a genius sailcloth in their sailmaking. for their sails and who will make excellent use of “real” do not have motors. They are Haiti’s fishermen labor under several challenges. They sails made of whatever incredibly able sailors of handcrafted boats and handmade plastic tarpaulins. They have materials present themselves, such as old bedsheets or grounds. to sail farther and farther out to reach productive fishing page —Continued on next Continued from previous page Continued from For more information visit www.marinaguadeloupe.com. Eight Bells died on May 16th. Jonathan Everett reports: Charles • DR. CHARLES OWEN KING lost, but he was also one Unfortunately the Club’s early records seem to have been at the Club in the early Owen was a keen sailor, and my first memories of Sundays late daughter Susan repre- Owen passed on his love of sailing to his family, with his supporter of the Club. ThoseOwen was pre-deceased by his wife Anne, another great Marina assures visitors of a special welcome gift for making the extra effort to come welcome gift for making the extra effort to come Marina assures visitors of a special our way. Club; indeed, he was one Owen King was one of the founders of the St. Lucia Articles of Association of of the four members who signed the Memorandum and which gave it its legal entity. The St. Lucia Yacht Club Ltd. on December 5th, 1963, of the earliest Commodores, if not the very first. the Venezuelan Consul, John 1970s was of Owen racing his Shearwater Cat against every Sunday, in at least Deveer. In those days we had two or three races almost their new International three “racing” classes, with the then young lions sailing truly sailing the very first Fireballs, the beginners their , and yours in St. Lucia — sail number 1122. not only becoming the first senting Oxford University against Cambridge — thereby sailing — and granddaugh- woman, but also the first West Indian to win a “Blue” for ter Jasia now flying the flag for the latest generation. well, and along with all otherolder members amongst us will remember both of them sincerest sympathy to our pres- members of the Club, will want to join me in sending our of their families. ent Commodore, Stephen, his sisters, and all the many members — Pigeon by the leeward side (Deshaies, have to round the island, either They will now the east. The Pointe des Chateaux to or by Saint François and Island, Basse-Terre) JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 that involveslocalschoolchildren.Theylearnedthehistoryofboatsasthey mainstay oflifeonJostVanDyke.Theboatbuildingprojectisaneducationaleffort and fishermenintheBVI.Sailing,fishingrepairofTortolaboatswasa major boatbuildingcenter,theresidentshavebeencelebratedasbestseamen distinctive-looking sailingsloopscametobeknown.AlthoughJostitselfwasnota embarked onthetaskofbuildinganupdatedversiona“Tortolaboat”,asthose the world.Thetraditionsandheroicsofthosebygonedaysarenottobeforgotten. early 1900s,sailingwasanythingbutrecreational.Ittheonlylinktorestof Western Hemisphere,butifyouwerearesidentonJostVanDykeinthe1800sand e-mail [email protected]. Florida (November15ththrough17th),tobegintheirjourneyasecondlifeinHaiti. Gams inAnnapolis,Maryland(September27ththrough29th)andMelbourne, Haitian fishingvillagesfordistribution.Inaddition,sailswillbecollectedattheSSCA ered orshippedtotheselocationswheretheywillbereadiedfortransportseveral and MarinaZar-ParinBocaChica,theDominicanRepublic.Usedsailscanbedeliv- a freeraffle. used sailsandsailclothtoHaitianfishermenonIle-à-Vache.Theyweredistributedby project sponsoredbyFreeCruisingGuides,hassuccessfullydelivereditsfirstcargoof — Haitian fishermenmakesailsfromavailablematerials Several yearsago,behindFoxy’sbar,theJostVanDykePreservationSociety The BVIisknowntomanyasoneofthebestrecreationalsailingvenuesin Cruisers’ Site-ings For moreinformationvisitwww.freecruisingguides.comor The twoprimarycollectionpointsareMinnefordMarinaonCityIsland,NewYork; Second LifeSails,acertifiedSevenSeasCruisingAssociation(SSCA)CleanWake

Continued frompreviouspage FRANK VIRGINTINO FRANK Marine ofSt.Martin,onpage9;andTMMYachtChartersVincent,12. Wednesday, July31stat1700hours(5:00 welcome PotLuckBarbecueDinnerwillbeheldatTantyLizzie’sSeasideFountainon (CCEF) dinnerandauctionareheldinHarveyVale,TyrrelBay,Carriacou.Thisyear’s loopProject?feat=email. See photosathttps://picasaweb.google.com/102515207783781048944/EndeavourIIS helped tobuildthesailingcraftfromkeelup. 2nd around1500hours(3:00 nice itemsfortheraffle. grill foryoutocookon.Therewillbelotsofcolddrinkspurchaseandsomevery fund.org. tion. AlldonationscanbegiventoArawakDivers. the SueKingsmanMemorialFundhaveprovided24scholarshipstodate. graduating fromHillsboroughSecondarySchoolandBishop’sCollege.CCEF provide two-yearscholarshipstoTAMarryshowCommunityCollegeforstudents education theydeserve.CCEFfundsbuyuniforms,backpacks,andlunches be inCarriacouatthistime. Florida lastyear,aregoingtojointhefestivitiesthisyear—anothergreatreason The ever-populartableofitemsforEC$15andupwillbeloadedwithgoodies. rants aswellacakecertificate,massagecertificateandhaul-outcertificate. and crafts,paintingsbyvariousartists,certificatesfordinnerstwoatmanyrestau- with CarriacouRegatta After OursisthevenueforCCEFauction,annuallytimedtocoincide Good tohaveyouwithus! It’s thattimeofyearagain!TheannualCarriacouChildren’sEducationFund Don’t MisstheFundraisingFuninCarriacou! Completion ofthisgrandeffort,named The auction will be held at After Ours Disco (above Arawak Divers) on Friday, August The auctionwillbeheldatAfterOursDisco(aboveArawakDivers)onFriday,August In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! For moreinformationvisitCCEF’snewwebsite,www.carriacouchildrenseducation- CCEF isstillacceptingdonationsofcash,goodsandboatitemsforthisyear’sauc- The CCEFassistsCarriacouchildreninfinancialneedtoensuretheyreceivethe John andMelodyePompa,whospearheadedCCEFformanyyearsretiredto Caribbean Compass PM ) There are lots of boat items, household goods, arts ) Therearelotsofboatitems,householdgoods,arts wewelcomenewadvertisersIntouchable PM ). Bringadishtoshareandtherewillbe II,isjustafewmonthsaway. JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 , , PM PM PM TH - AUGUST 5 followed by Glow from 10 PM ND PM BE THERE! AUGUST 2 CARRIACOU CARRIACOU Trial race, offi cial opening, local/regional calypso show cial opening, race, offi Trial Round the island race, open boat race, Round the island race, Two races all categories, on shore activity from 1 races all categories, Two on shore activity from 1 Final race all categories, OF SAILING AND FUN! nd rd th th prize giving from 6 wet fête from 7 2 5 3 4 activities, Queen show at night on shore EXPERIENCE A WEALTH EXPERIENCE A WEALTH REGATTA 2013 REGATTA when Caribbean Compass

Likes Her Biocop Bottom , a 116-foot aluminum from the Ted Hood Design Group, was built in , a 116-foot aluminum sloop from the Ted Hood Design

For more information on McIntyre Brothers see ad on page 38. Caribbean Horizons, Grenada to Give Bird Tours Caribbean Horizons Tours & Services guides took part in an intensive weeklong bird- For more information on Sea Hawk Paints see ad on page 5. For more information on Sea Hawk Paints see ad on page Technicians Advance at McIntyre Brothers, Grenada recently been recognized Three technicians at McIntyre Brothers, Grenada have Whisper The workshop, hosted at the Grenada Public Workers’ Union conference center, The workshop, hosted at the Grenada Public Workers’ for the busy summer season! The supervisors are re-energized, re-focused and ready 10. For more information on Grenada Marine see ad on page Whisper Grenada Marine’s Supervisors Boost Skills Grenada Marine’s Supervisors Marine supervisors attended a Supervisory Skills On May 6th, four Grenada For more information visit http://www.partsandpower.com. Also see their new blog Also see their new blog For more information visit http://www.partsandpower.com. Perkins Service Parts Summer Sale Perkins Service 80 Perkins discount on more than are running a special 20-percent Parts & Power BUSINESS BRIEFS BUSINESS Technician for Achieving Excellence in Service Training; and American Honda rec- ognizes Jerome Joseph as a Honda Master Technician. Congratulations to all for achieving these certifications. guiding seminar in June in preparation for bird tours that will be part of the 19th Regional Meeting of the Society for the Conservation and Study of Caribbean Birds. The meeting is to be held in Grenada from July 27th through 31st at St. George’s University. The topic of the conference is Bird Conservation in a Changing Climate. —Continued on next page 2003 by Holland Jachtbouw in Zaandam, Netherlands. She recently returned there 2003 by Holland Jachtbouw in Zaandam, Netherlands. got a quick wash and from a winter in the Caribbean. Her Biocop TF teal bottom approved Biocop TF was was in perfect condition. Sea Hawk Paints’ Lloyd’s Registry to protect against the developed as an alternative to tin-based antifouling paints protection. A new dual bio- harshest marine environments and provide maximum PL3, produces an engi- cide technology and revolutionary polymer binder system, environment. neered biocide that leaves no harmful effects on the recognizes Shanda St. for their accomplishments. Yamaha Motor Company Ltd. Bronze Certified Clair as a Yamaha Technical Academy Outboard Motor as a Master Technician; Ford Motor Company recognizes Rickey Alexander covered topics such as time management, effective communication, conflict reso- covered topics such as time management, effective communication, from Grenada Marine were lution and efficiency assessment. Supervisors attending Stefan Isaac Thomas, General Services; Roland James, Fiberglass/Composite; and Finishing. Fletcher, Marine Mechanical; and Jimmy Bethel, Paint Training Workshop conducted by Dr. Nella Roberts from High Impact Consulting, by Dr. Nella Roberts from High Impact Consulting, Training Workshop conducted continuing effort to improve skills training and as part of Grenada Marine’s employee development. placing your order! at http://partsandpower.wordpress.com. service parts from now to September. Please mention now to September. Please service parts from Shanda St. Clair is among the three engine technicians at McIntyre Brothers receiving new certifications One of four participating staff from Grenada Marine, Stefan Fletcher, at left, during One of four participating staff from Grenada Marine, Stefan the Supervisory Skills Training workshop JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 MILLION DOLLAR MILLION 41035'*4)$)"--&/(& TO t'VMMTFSWJDFCPBUZBSEXJUIUPO5SBWF-JGU BOEJOIPVTFZ  t0OTJUFDVTUPNTBOEJNNJHSBUJPO DVTUPNTCSPLFS t3FTUBVSBOUT SFUBJMTIPQTBOECBSTPOTJUF tTMJQTXJUIBGUNBYESBGU An IGFAAn all-tackle world record catch. SPORTFISHING DESTINATION.SPORTFISHING

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GREG HOMEL on atourwithCaribbeanHorizons Lucky birdwatchersmightgetaglimpseofthecriticallyendangeredGrenadaDove for the coastal waters from Varadero westward and around to Cienfuegos. The guide for thecoastalwatersfromVaraderowestwardandaroundtoCienfuegos.Theguide ing library. Cuba — island intheCaribbeanisonhorizon. visit www.caribbeanhorizons.comorcallJoannAnnat(473)444-1555. these twoGrenadineislands. August 1stand2ndtoCarriacouUnionIslandseethebirdcommunitiesin and FrankVirgintino and Virgintino’s harbor-by-harbor andanchorage-by-anchoragecoverageoftheentireisland,Agirre guide’s morethan400pagesarepackedwithcurrentinformation.Complete be onthebookshelfofeverycruisingsailorwhocontemplatesCuba.The eBook storesduringthefirstweekofSeptember. guides.com asafreePDFdownload.TheeBookversionisscheduledtoappearin —Continuedonpage35 utes awayfromProvoGolfCourse. showers, workstations,volleyballandhorseshoe courts,andisalsolocatedonlymin- General ManageratBlueHaven. that AdamFoster,formermanagerofRodney BayMarina,isnowtheMarina the gatewaytoCaribbean.SailorswhohavevisitedSt.Luciawillbegladsee Resort &Marinaisjust575nauticalmilesfromFloridaandperfectlypositionedas the marinacaterstoyachtsup220feetwithnobeamlimitations.BlueHaven Providenciales, isnowopen.Withadraftrestrictionofeightfeet(atmeanlowtide), August atwww.freecruisingguides.com. • Asmoreandcruisers’thoughtsturntoCuba,anotherguidethelargest • CaptainandauthorCherylBarrhaspublishedherlatestbook, Two NewGuidestoCuba For moreinformationonCaribbeanHorizonsTours&Servicesseeadpage38. For moreinformationontheconferenceortobookabirdingtour, In additiontothemid-conferencefieldtripsonGrenadatherewillbe The authors of this free guide have created a comprehensive work that should also The authorsofthisfreeguidehavecreatedacomprehensiveworkthatshouldalso The marinaoffersitsgueststheuseofaconference roomwithcomplimentaryWiFi, Blue HavenResort&Marina,locatedontheleewardsideofisland Blue HavenMarinaOpensinTurks&Caicos For moreinformationofFreeCruisingGuidesseeadonpage35. Agirre andVirgintino’sACruisingGuidetoCubawillbeavailablethefirstweekof Continued frompreviouspage . This224-page,full-colourcruisingguidewillbeawelcomeadditiontoanycruis- Cruising GuidetoCuba(Volume1) A CruisingGuidetoCuba

will beavailablethefirstweekofAugustatwww.freecruising- alsoincludesanannotatedbibliography. [email protected]. at bookstoresandfromtheauthor www.cruisingincuba.com. about Barr’sCubavoyagesat welder andamarinebiologist.Readmore eries worldwide,andisalsoacertified License, hasmadenumerousyachtdeliv- . Shehasa200-tonYachtmaster Cuba sailingaboarda62-footHerreshoff Canada guidesatwww.yachtpilot.ca. Maritimes Down EastCircleRoute large, easy-to-readcolourformat. data issuperblywrittenandpresentedina more. AllofBarr’snavigationalresearchand sage planning;hurricaneholesandmuch tion aboutweather;routeadviceandpas- ages andinsidepassages;crucialinforma- nent GPSco-ordinatesforharbours,anchor- photos, detaileddescriptionsincludingperti- is filledwithcolourchartillustrationsand A CruisingGuidetoCuba Barr’s CruisingGuidetoCubaisavailable Barr hasspentoveradozenseasonsin Barr’s othercruisingguidesinclude

has invaluable up-to-date information has invaluableup-to-dateinformation . FindinformationonherAtlantic Cruising Guide to Cruising Guideto and by AmaiaAgirre The Canadian The JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9   

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the flight if Vanishing Sail The New Caribbean Home , well rested with a belly definitely full. AM will know that I wrote by Shirley Hall Compass , a book about Caribbean foods, gardening, and cuisine. Writing , a book about Caribbean

Go ahead and laugh. Think it is an extravagant, bourgeois mode of getting betweenGo ahead and laugh. Think it is an extravagant, bourgeois What to do? Time and money are the factors that led me to consider business via What to do? Time and money are the factors that led If the time and a boat are available, you can sail or motor. I’ve met a few other If the time and a boat are available, you can sail or Commercial inter-island air transport consumes a good part of a day — Commercial inter-island air Like me, many owners of small businesses need to travel between various islands businesses need to travel between various islands Like me, many owners of small Inexpensive cellular phone plans make inter-island conversations easy for the plans make inter-island conversations easy for the Inexpensive cellular phone Consider the cruise as inter-island transport. I recommend it for every small busi- My “book cruise” was a definite success. I hit a lot of bookstores and now they all The cruise ship may be the ultimate aggressor of the seas, but they are comfortable With a bit of skill and calling using the Net, arrangements can be made to board Regular readers of the the islands? Consider a plane fare — maybe US$200 will get you from one Caribbeanthe islands? Consider a plane fare — maybe US$200 will The last time I flew my actualcity to another. Figure in your departure tax, etcetera. seat and airport tax,flight was reasonable, then I had to pay for the fuel surcharge, meals and no hotel, and I hitand gate fees on each end. Two islands for meetings, no feeling haggard. A decent cruise500 dollars. A day in most airports leaves you tired and room, board and even enter- visiting five islands doesn’t cost much more, combining and Customs. You know fortainment — while somebody else caters to Immigration certain you will be at a certain island by 10:00 cruise ship. fame literally sails his beautiful Carriacou sloop to book-business meetings. Chris fame literally sails his beautiful Carriacou sloop to book-business exquisite catamaran. But the Doyle of cruising guide distinction does the same on an is growing. water’s not moving under my boat these days; the grass authors of Caribbean reference books like mine. Alexis Andrews of authors of Caribbean reference books like mine. Alexis happens and is on time. In the current economy it is difficult to determine if an air- happens and is on time. In the current economy it is Add long Customs and line will continue in business when you need to travel. Immigration lines…. in the Caribbean. My intention was not for carrying freight, but just for making a was not for carrying freight, but just for making in the Caribbean. My intention such business trips are one-day visits, just to take orders face-to-face meeting. Many distribution. or acquaint stores with product Garden Handbook anything can be accomplished over the Internet; small-business budget. Almost Skype help make things possible. But the Net is a vari- high-speed connections and per- never know who got your message. To me it is less able medium, meaning you on Skype? I guess I just feel uncomfortable when seen sonal than the phone. And the modern computer screen. was the easy part, organizing my knowledge. But from proofreading to publishing it my knowledge. But from proofreading to publishing was the easy part, organizing of expensive educational incidents. And I had never seemed a never-ending series As an author I should meet booksellers, yet that never even considered transport. jotting the how-to’s and recipes. entered my mind when I was ness owner to mix business and pleasure without spending a fortune. While underway you may relax in a hot tub or sauna, see current movies, and exercise away the calories you consume. My business visits were well organized so they didn’t take long, and even book signings were just an hour or two, so I still had plenty of time to see the islands. And I didn’t have to clear out, re-supply the , or haul the anchor. know my face and now I know who I am calling or e-mailing. and, despite recent incidents, usually dependable. Remember, cruise are still impressive and now the main mode of island tourism. Arrange your meetings on every island in advance, and, if you are lucky, someone from that company or store will meet you at the dock to provide transport. You must organize to accomplish every meeting within the allotted time ashore. Then return to the ship, take a hot shower, relax, and perhaps pig out till the next port. at any island, not necessarily in Florida. I Googled all of the major cruise lines and contacted them with e-mails. As long as you are prepared to pay the full cruise fare, even though you may be eliminating days/islands for your passage, travel between specific islands can be done. My cruise started in Miami, but I could have jumped on or off at any of the islands on the itinerary — St. Thomas, St. Maarten, St. Lucia, Dominica, or Barbados. You follow their itinerary, but must give written notice of your intention to embark or disembark at a certain island at least two weeks in advance — the more advance notice the better. Get a written statement of agreement from the cruise line and be able to show an address to stay and enough money to purchase a return passage from that island if necessary. Requirements of what is termed the “Assured Arrival” process (requests for boarding or early depar- ture) must be in writing. You must include your name, ship’s name with sailing date, booking number, and the name of the island(s) where you wish to board or depart with the date of boarding/departure. Dot all the ‘i’s and cross the ‘t’s and make cer- tain you include your e-mail address or fax number for return confirmation. My cruise ride to visit many island bookstores cost less than US$50 a day! My cruise ride to visit many island bookstores cost less

Playing tourist with a friend in St. Maarten — and taking care of business the same day Island-Style Island-Style Trip — Business Ship! Cruise by JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10           ! "                 #   !"#$%"&$'$"(')*+++( ! ,'-(')*           $                                    

     

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  went toS went toMamoraBayDivers,wholanded averyimpressive28lionfish.Secondplace Department ofAgricultureandAntigua Yacht ClubMarina. Antigua ConservationSociety,andinassociation withtheFisheriesDivisionof organized byMamoraBayDiversandthe St.JamesClubinpartnershipwiththe culmination andweigh-inofthefirst-everAntiguaLionfishHunt.Thishunt was of themarineenvironmentwaslaunched. ate fundingformarineconservationintheCaribbeanandraiseconsumerawareness it iscriticaltothesuccessofregion’seconomy.” “This eventhasdemonstratedthatnolongerisprotectingnatureviewedasaluxury, from fossilfuelstoalternativeenergysourcesoverthenextfiveyears. increasing thenumberofmarineprotectedareas,andacceleratingtransition and raysacrosstheregionaimingforaregion-widesanctuarywithintwoyears, and theCarbonWarRoom. event wasorganizedbyTheNatureConservancy,withsupportfromVirginUnite, Branson. Theevent’ssponsoringpartnerwasTiffany&Co.Foundation,andthe the BritishVirginIslands,Dr.TheHonourableD.OrlandoSmith;andSirRichard was co-hostedbythePrimeMinisterofGrenada,Dr.KeithMitchell;Premier a healthyeconomy.” healthy economywithoutaenvironment,norenvironment marine conservationchallengeintheCaribbeangohandhand:wecan’thavea coastal environment,andaccelerateeffortstotransitionrenewableenergy. ted approximatelyUS$64milliontopreserveandprotecttheregion’smarine Necker IslandintheBritishVirginIslandsonweekendofMay18thandcommit- economy, representativesof15Caribbeangovernmentsand17corporationsmeton to experiencenestingundertypicalcircumstances. ity thatisusuallymaskedbythecoverofdarknessfromluckyfewareable ing. Thisrelativelyraredaytimenestingallowedauniqueperspectiveintoanactiv- Onlookers wereabletoexperiencefirsthandtheawe-inspiringfeatofseaturtlenest- beachgoers alongwithstudentsandteachersoftheL’EsterreRosarySchool. directly infrontofHope’sInn,providedanexcellenteducationalopportunityfor eggs. “Hope”,whichsomeonlookersnamedherbecausesheemergedandlaid the SandyIslandOysterBedMarineProtectedArea(SIOBMPA)tolayherprecious turtle bravedthehotsunandrelativelycrowdedParadiseBeach,Carriacouwithin our hotlineat(473)538-5851. are lookingforwardtohernextvisitintwoyears. up tothefeedinggroundsinNorthAtlanticatendofnestingseason and MPA yearround. the captureorharassmentofturtlesandtheirnestswithinboundaries any or productsatanytime.AlsotheMarineProtectedArea(MPA)legislationprohibits is allowedtocatch,sell,purchaseorhaveintheirpossessionleatherbackeggs,meat Grenada andhersisterislandsofCarriacouPetiteMartinique.Thatis,no one hatchlings typicallyemergeatnightandmaketheirwaytotheocean. less eggs.Theseyolkedeggshatchroughly60to65daysaftertheyarelaidand the reach adulthood.Theylaybetween60and90yolkedeggsseveralsmalleryolk- or sixnestingepisodesduringasingleseasonandnesteveryotheryearoncethey turtles usuallynestbetweenthemonthsofMarchandJuly.Theytypicallymake five return totheareawheretheywereborndeposittheireggs. allow Hopetobeidentifiedonfuturenestingvisitstheregion,asfemaleturtles conducts seaturtlemonitoringandwildliferescueontheisland.Thesetagswould with anewpairofflippertagsbymembertheKidoFoundation,localNGOthat approximately onehourand45minutesbeforereturningtothesea.Shewasfitted —Continuedonnextpage arrived inAntiguanwaterswithinthelast twoorthreeyears. into Caribbeanwatersaccidentallysome 20yearsago,butappearstohaveonlyjust CARIBBEAN Six boatstookpartandawhopping77 fish werespearedandlanded.FirstPrize Olando Harveyreports:OnMay31st,atapproximately2:10 From Carriacou,aStoryofHope In additiontothesecommitments,DefendParadise,acampaigndesignedgener- Glenn Prickett,ChiefExternalAffairsOfficerforTheNatureConservancy,said, The high-leveldialogueresultedinconsensusontheurgentneedtoprotectsharks The event,launchingthesecondphaseofCaribbeanChallengeInitiative(CCI), Sir RichardBranson,FounderofVirginGroup,said,“Theenergychallengeand In ajointefforttosafeguardandbolstertheCaribbeanregion’stourism-dependent Funds CommittedtoRegionalMarineProtection At 3:00 Antigua’s FirstLionfishHuntBags77 To reportanynesting,orotherSIOBMPArelatedactivitypleasefeelfreetocall The SIOBMPAwouldliketowishHopeasafevoyageasshemakesherwayback Leatherback turtlesandtheirnestsarefullyprotectedwithinthejurisdiction of Leatherback seaturtlesarecriticallyendangeredglobally.TheAtlanticleatherback Hope wentthroughallofthetypicalstagesseaturtlenesting,overaperiod The lionfish,anativeoftheIndo-Pacific region, isthoughttohavebeenintroduced PM oul Immersion onJune2nd,theAntiguaYachtClubMarinaDocksawsuccessful with 20fish,andthirdwas ECO Tin withnine. -NEWS PM , aleatherback JUNE 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 JULY (full moon) 10 11 12 1441 13 1528 14 1616 15 1708 16 1802 17 1900 18 1959 19 2100 20 2159 21 2257 22 2352 23 0000 24 0045 25 0136 26 0226 27 0315 28 0403 29 0452 30 0540 31 0628 0716 0804 (full moon) (new moon) 21 22 23 2314 24 0000 25 0016 26 0114 27 0207 28 0259 29 0348 30 0436 31 0523 0613 August 2013 0656 1 2 3 4 0746 5 0834 6 0922 7 1009 8 1056 9 1141 1226 1311 1356 JULY - AUGUST 2013 OF THE MOON (new moon) MERIDIAN PASSAGE MERIDIAN PASSAGE Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable will Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “ and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire July 2013 DATE TIME 1 2 3 4 0641 5 0728 6 0814 7 0902 8 0949 9 1032 10 1125 11 1212 12 1258 1343 13 1428 14 1512 15 1556 16 1642 17 1729 18 1820 19 1914 20 2021 2112 2214 make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next month, will help you calculate the tides. running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e. the tide floods from west to east. Times given are local. charts. Fair tides!

JASON PICKERING CCMI newspaper, 50 stu- Carriacou Cleans Up Diane Martino reports: June 8th, More then 50 persons took part in 2013 was Ocean Day, a worldwide celebration. The Carriacou Environmental Committee (CEC) coordinated a Beach and Shoreline Clean-Up at Hillsborough to raise awareness, among “Kayaks” and visi- tors alike, that careless dumping of land-based waste — particularly plas- tics and other non-biodegradable trash — adversely affects our marine environment and beaches, both of which are vital to the island’s tourism and economic viability. the debris collection on shore and underwater from Silver Beach up to the Lauriston Airport; the Hillsborough Caymanian Compass and Cheeseburger , where they were able Balboa , the Cali Continued from previous page Continued from Human activities are the biggest threat for the environment. The beach cleanup is The CEC thanks all sponsors who generously supported the event by giving trash Every participant received a certificate of recognition from CEC Chairman Luther Nearly two tons of debris were collected, including tires, steel, building materials, CCMI’s “One Ocean, One Planet” competition, which has been sponsored by KPMG CCMI’s “One Ocean, One Planet” competition, which has The second prize went to Red Bay Primary School. Twenty-five Year 5 students The second prize went to Red Bay Primary School. George Town Primary (pic- For more information on capturing lionfish see http://www.coral.org/node/4620. Cayman Students Win Ocean Literacy Scholarships As reported in the June 7th issue of the These non-native fish are a big problem not only because of their poisonous spines, only because of their poisonous fish are a big problem not These non-native one effort to give back what was taken from Mother Nature. CEC encourages every- one to make a small action every day — just one piece of paper you see while walking on the street and put it in a garbage can. It’s a start. bags and bottles of water. Special thanks to Wayne Car Rental, Paddy’s Enterprises, Vena Bullen’s Supermarket, the Grenada Board of Tourism’s Carriacou Office, The Family Store, Lumbadive PADI 5-, Fidel Productions, the Fountain Wine Bar & Restaurant, Lambi Queen, Peach Heaven, Hills & Valley Pharmacy, and the Co-Operative Bank. Rennie (pictured). A light lunch was served and prizes were given. plastic and glass bottles, caps, bags, food containers, condoms, diapers, cigarette butts, lighters, plastic and styrofoam plates and utensils, etcetera. Secondary School Environmental Club, a group of students from Hillsborough and L’Esterre, and staff and customers of Lumbadive participated. for the past five years with Cayman National Bank and the Department of Tourism for the past five years with Cayman National Bank and and conservation orga- also being partners, enables the marine research, education nization to teach young students about the environment. to identify fish, stingrays, jellyfish and turtles. were joined by CCMI staff on the Nautilus semi-submersible boat for a tour of the were joined by CCMI staff on the Nautilus semi-submersible the tour took students harbour in George Town. An underwater learning adventure, over the wreck of the tured) won first place in the competition. As a result, 25 Year 5 students travelled to Little Cayman where they spent two days and two nights at the Little Cayman Research Centre. While there, students snor- kelled over seagrass beds and coral reefs — a first for many of them — and learned to identify fish and coral. They also learned and had a close encounter about Cayman’s cultural history, terrestrial conservation about the threats to the with rock iguanas. Throughout their stay, they were taught natural environment and protection measures. dents from government primary schools in the Cayman Islands have been awarded dents from government primary schools in the Cayman Marine Institute as a result of Ocean Literacy Scholarships by the Central Caribbean competition, held earlier this winning their “One Ocean, One Planet” competition. The year, invited students to submit visual and written pieces explaining why the is crucial for the Cayman Islands and its tour- ism product. The winning crew with their haul The winning crew with their are a massive threat to fish stocks. The lionfish hunt, as voracious predators they to a regular tri-annual event, was conducted as a way which it is hoped will become control the numbers of these dangerous invaders. which can cause very severe injury if you touch or tread on them, but also because touch or tread on them, very severe injury if you which can cause — JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 it triestobrushthemoffwithanirritatedflickofa seem toappreciatethehitchhikersandeverysooften on materialsdroppedbytheirhost.Thisturtledoesn’t and protection,alsoactascleanerfishfeed commonly turtles,whalesandsharks—astransport about twoandahalffeetlongusetheirhosts— with tworemorasclingingtoitsshell.Remorasare interest ispiquedagainwhenwespotalargeturtle have becomeblasé:“Anotherturtle?Oh,okay.”Their drink andspotplentyofturtlesfromthere. need toworry,youcansitontheforedeckwithacool keep toandnoreasonhurry.Youdon’tswim?No turtles’ worldit’ssopeaceful;there’snoscheduleto front flipperstomovelanguidlyahead.Hereinthe it, marvellingatthegracefulwayitslowlymovesits the bluesunlitwater;itdivesagainandweswimafter surface, passingbetweentwoofusasitrisesthrough they areprotectedhere.Anotherturtleswimstothe the surfaceclosebythem,almostasthoughtheyknow seabed. Theyseemunperturbedbyusaswefloaton one —no,two,threeturtlesgrazingtogetheronthe tles andsnorkelersfromrotatingpropellers.Wespot ing andfastboatsareprohibited,protectingbothtur- rope andbuoysthatcordonofftheareawhereanchor- over towardsthebeach,duckingunderfloating grass growingontheseabed. and thendivesagaintocontinuefeastingontheturtle the surface.Theturtleregardsussolemnly,gulpsair water, thebrownshadowofitsshellvisiblejustunder us aturtle’sheadpopsoutoftheclearturquoise Vincent &theGrenadines.Aboutfivemetresabeamof islet ofBaradelintheTobagoCaysMarineParkSt. friends holidayingwithus.We’vejustanchoredoffthe By DayTwotheturtlesaresonumerousourfriends We hurrytodonmasks,snorkelsandfinsswim “Turtle! Turtle!”thecrygoesupfromoneofour                 %   %                                                 %  &                        $                #        in 1995byOrtonG.“Brother”King,aretiredlocal Turtle SanctuaryinParkBay,Bequia.Itwasopened shells floatingabovethewavesastheydriftpastus. the sizeofdustbinlids,knobbledcurvetheir The mostspectacularofthesearegiantleatherbacks numerous anchoragesfromGrenadatoGuadeloupe. turtles floatingbywiththecurrentorswimmingin bow waveaswesailbetweentheislandsnowsee reversed. Insteadofspottingdolphinsplayinginour phins butnoturtles;nowthesituationappearstobe Caribbean Iseemtorememberseeingloadsofdol- they gobacktofeastingfromitsshell. ras transfertoitsundersideuntilitdivesagain,when flipper. Whentheturtlesurfacestobreatheremo- Turtles Talking Turtles canalsobeseencloseupattheOldHegg When myhusband,Kevin,andIfirstcruisedthe  by ChristineGooch of

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!  #" %!$&   #" %!$&  !  —Continuedonnextpage windward baysonroute. takes about40minutesoneway,withfineviewsofthe Port Elizabethorifyouprefersomeexercise,thewalk from underthealmondtreebyferryterminalin Old HeggTurtleSanctuaryyoucantakealocaltaxi where theywereborntolaytheirowneggs.Toget prove thattheydosurviveandreturntothebeach marking theyoungfemaleturtles’shellssohecan about thebenefitsofconservation,andheisnow tuary andthengohomeeducatetheirparents that thelocalschoolchildrenlovecomingtosanc- fishermen’s indifference,butheseeshopeinthefact tank-raised turtleswon’tsurviveinthewildandlocal turtles, eveninthefaceofscientiststellinghimhis Mr. Kingispassionateabouthisprojecttosavethe nently asshewouldbeunabletosurviveinthewild. damaged flipperwholivesatthesanctuaryperma- and Mr.Kingintroducedustoher,afemalewith we’d seentheremorasdoingatTobagoCays. scrubbed tocleantheirshellsofalgae,thesamejob or sotheolderturtlesaretakenoutoftheirtanksand provide enoughoftheirnaturaldiet.Everythreeweeks ceans, butMr.Kingfeedsthemtinnedfishashecan’t old.) Inthewildtheyeatjellyfishandsmallcrusta- lings andreleasesthemwhentheyareaboutfiveyears four andahalfyearsold.(Mr.Kingcollectsthehatch- to theirage;theyrangefromacoupleofmonths ary arehousedinseverallargeroundpoolsaccording released themintothesea.Theturtlesatsanctu- that todatehehasraisedalmost900turtlesand a fewhatchlingsinplastictub1995,Mr.Kingsays ing foritsmeat,eggsandbeautifulshell.Startingwith Hawksbill turtle,threatenedwithextinctionbyhunt- skindiving fisherman,tohelpwithconservationofthe Kevin askedwherethenameOldHeggcamefrom pops outoftheclearturquoisewater’ ‘About fivemetresabeamofusaturtle’shead   JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 lll#XVgV^WZ"bVg^cZ#[g Two tour operators well-known to cruisers — Jesse For more information on Caribbean sea turtles and • Do not attempt to touch turtles or ride on them, • When visiting nesting beaches keep the use of • Don’t drive on beaches where turtles nest — you • Don’t litter — turtles may mistake plastic bags, tacle of a nesting leatherback turtle, next on my tacle of a nesting leatherback turtle, next on my “Turtle To Do List” is seeing the tiny hatchlings crawl into the ocean and swim away. James in Trinidad and Cutty’s Island Tours in Grenada — organize trips to turtle nesting sites in those islands; we visited Great Courland Bay independently but Peter Cox Nature Tours and Tour Tobago Ltd. offer organized trips on Tobago. Some sites in Trinidad require a permit to visit them. how and where to watch them, visit www.sos-tobago. org, www.turtlevillagetrust.org or www.widecast.org. In the meantime, here are some turtle Do’s and Don’ts: however tempting this may be. Keep a safe distance and stay behind nesting turtles. torches/flashlights to a minimum. Don’t use flash photography. may crush the eggs in a nest. etcetera, for jellyfish and try to eat them, leading to a slow and painful death. tunately in this case is towards the lights of the lights of the case is towards the tunately in this and put collect them in buckets hotel, so volunteers Having seen sea at the water’s edge. them in the with turtle sanctuary, snorkelled “Brother” King’s moving spec- wild, and witnessed the turtles in the ‘Brother’ King estimates that he’s raised some 900 sea turtle hatchlings, releasing them after they are less susceptible to predators hZgk^XZ "AZBVg^cBVg^cV "L^YZhidX`d[heVgZeVgih "=^\]aZkZad[hZgk^XZ ":meZg^ZcXZYegd[Zhh^dccVahiV[[ "8^k^agZhedch^W^a^in "CZlZfj^eeZYldg`h]deh "AVWZafjVa^in Vindjg *.+%*.+,)-%(( IZa/ ^hV BVgi^c^fjZ;L> The mother dug a big hole three to six feet deep When she had finished laying she flicked the sand After 60 days the hatchlings emerge and instinc- using her huge flippers. While she was doing this we using her huge flippers. While she was doing this we were allowed to be only a few feet away, so we could see her in the red light a shone. You’re not allowed to take flash photos as the bright light dis- turbs the turtles. This one didn’t appear to have cho- sen a particularly good site as it was right under the beach volleyball net, but the volunteer said that the eggs would be deep enough to be safe. Once the turtle was ready to lay her eggs we were asked to move far- ther away. While she was laying, she made an eerie sound, like someone blowing across the top of a glass bottle. It was too dark to see, but apparently they secrete “tears” to keep their eyes clear while they are out of the water; you could almost imagine she was crying for all her babies that won’t survive — out of 1,000 hatchlings only a handful reach maturity. back into the hole with her flippers, turning round as she did so. Then she heaved herself back down the beach, into the surf and swam away. The whole pro- cess had taken about two and a half hours. Watching it was an amazing experience, especially knowing that this has been happening for the last 100 million years, since the time of the dinosaurs. We found out later that two other turtles had nested farther down the beach that night. tively start crawling towards the light, which unfor- Every year between March and June turtles return to March and June turtles Every year between 100 to 150 they were born and lay the beach where and turn to 40 of which will be “blind” eggs, at least damaged by later and others will be mush a fortnight fungus or bacteria. HE:8>6AEG>8:;DGG:;>I h]^eX]VcYaZg^cBVgi^c^fjZ heZX^Va^oZY^cZfj^ebZci[dg h]^eh!WjiVahd^ccVji^XVa V[iZg"hVaZhhZgk^XZ! bV^ciZcVcXZhjeea^Zh VcY^chiVaaVi^dcd[YZk^XZh#  8VgV^WZBVg^cZ G><<>C<":A:8IGDC>8":C:GC:GN HeZX^Va^hih GOOCH GOOCH XdciVXi5XVgV^WZ"bVg^cZ#[g Continued from previous page Continued from Volunteers from SOS (Save Our Sea turtles) Tobago SOS (Save Our Sea turtles) Volunteers from One of the most amazing sights I have ever wit- amazing sights I have One of the most The Tobago Cays Marine Park is a great place to photograph Hawksbills. Note the hitchhiking remora in the lower photo the surface to breathe, I’d been wondering for some the surface to breathe, I’d been wondering for some time where they sleep. A volunteer told me they look for water of a certain depth and can then sit on the bottom holding their breath for up to an hour, or sometimes they doze while floating on the surface. were keeping an eye on her and answering questions. an eye on her and answering were keeping sized and 35 years old; she They said she was medium four feet from her nose looked pretty big to us — about around two feet tall at the to the tip of her shell and I’ve seen photos of them in highest point of her shell. a beautiful blue colour. the daylight and they are largest sea turtles, Leatherbacks are the world’s (1,100 pounds). Nowadays weighing up to 500 kilos in 1980 there were an they are critically endangered: females; in 1995 this was estimated 115,000 nesting turtles come briefly to down to 34,500. Having seen nessed was on the beach at Great Courland Bay in the beach at Great Courland nessed was on had risen, as soon as the moon Tobago. One evening, a group of dinghied ashore and joined Kevin and I a giant leath- beach. They were watching people on the sand to lay digging a hole in the soft, dry erback turtle her eggs. — JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 and NoahTurtshi.StéphaneGeoffroyAlexandreGuiheneuccamethird. of TurenneandPatrickLaPlacewonfiveracesbrilliantly,aheadDavidGuiheneuc Automobiles racedonanelongatedpathsuitedtotheirimpressivespeed.Thecrew Francis Whimbrel. the invincibleBenoitMeesemaeckerprevail,followedbyRhôneFindlayand Brin edgedaheadofhissisterCindy,withHennisHasanithird.LaserStandardsaw years andup.Inthe4.7s,BenjaminGrochadnocompetition.Radials,Hervé by theAnguilliancrewofKemaniGumbsandReneThomas. first placeandAlecScarabelliJohannaLoosersecond.Thirdwastaken Maarten sailorswonthefirsttwoplaceswithLeonardoLeñolandBartVanUlietin 16 yearsclimbedtoamoretechnicalandperformancedinghywithspinnaker.St. was wonbyBacconLukeandAlanStrokfinishedthird. who startedwithasecondplaceandthenwonthenextfiverounds.Second tics, rulesofracingandpreparationtheirboat.TophonorswenttoNathanSmith, l’Oubli. Thesesailorseightto14yearsoldwerealreadyexpertsinmaneuvers,tac- awarded secondplace)andKylianGuillemassyjustonepointbehind. him foughtafiercebattle,withTomPetitandIllanLeDeuntiedforpoints(Tomwas sored byBardel’Oubli,wasdominatedLorenzoMayer.Thenextthreebehind ideal —goodweather,breezeandagreatsailingarea. sailors ofSt.Martin,Maarten,AnguillaandBarth.Asusual,theconditionswere Club, thegrowingeventisoneofmajordinghyregattasinareaforyoung 61 participants.StagedonthebeachofPublic,headquartersSt.BarthYacht Regatta News Finally, thespectacular,high-performanceF18catamaranssponsoredbyFBM The OlympicLaserclass,sponsoredbySt.BarthProperties,wasforsailorsaged14 With theRSFevaclasssupportedbyCamper&Nicholson,agegroupof12to The largestfleetconsistedof18inOptimistCompetition,alsosponsoredbyBarde The youngestgroup(sixto12years)ofsevennovicesailors,OptimistOptilenespon- The fiftheditionoftheSt.BarthMini-Bucket,heldonMay11thand12th,attracted St. BarthMini-BucketGrowsUp! growth ofthismulti-classandmulti-generationalevent. sailors withbeautifullycrasailingshirts,theSt.BarthYachtClubispleasedtosee —Continuedonnextpage Charlotte AmalieWaterfront. test infast-pacedhighlycompetitivesailingactionalongthespectator-friendly women andactivesuccessfulmatchracersfromthepast,willputtheirskillsto give ustimetorunadoubleround-robin,semisandfinals.” globe, andeightboatsinsteadofsixtomakeitmoreexcitingonthecourse racing insteadoffour,whichisnormalinothereventslikethisheldaroundthe Charlotte AmalieharborfromNovember21stthrough24th. ARC+ isanexcitingextensiontotheworld’slargesttrans-oceansailingrally. support oftheAtlanticRallyforCruisers’sponsorsinGranCanariaandSt.Lucia, only funresultscalculatedforthosewho’dliketojoinin. over thepreceding27years.Onthisnewroutetherewillbenocompetitiveracing, the ARC,maintaininguniqueatmospherethathasdevelopedwithinRally and afullprogrammeofsocialactivitiestoursforwhichtheARCisrenowned. across theAtlantictoRodneyBay,St.LuciaforatremendousCaribbeanwelcome, ARC+ fleetwillre-groupintheCapeVerdesbeforesettingoffwithtradewinds those ownersreturningtotheARCforwhomthisisnottheirfirstAtlanticcrossing.The archipelago en-routetotheCaribbean,andgivesanattractiveroutealternative route fromNorthernEurope. ated withparticipatingintheARC,includingsubstantialoffersat18marinasen in theentryfee.Additionally,cruisingsailorswillbenefitfromalldiscountsassoci- week ofactivities,seminars,andsocialfunctionsbeforethedeparture,allincluded November 10th,twoweeksaheadofthetraditionalARCstart,andincludesafull includes astopoverintheCapeVerdeIslands. pants, WorldCruisingClubhaslaunchedanalternativestartfortheARC,whichalso in thisinternationalcruisingrally,andlistenedtofeedbackfrompreviouspartici- extra capacityformorecruiserstojointheworld’smostpopularcruisingyachtrally. received, ARCorganizerWorldCruisingClubhasbeenworkingonawaytoprovide ing listclosedamonthlater.Withnumerousfreshenquiriescontinuallybeing for2013;despitethis,theARCwasfullbyendofJanuary,withwait- the LasPalmasPortAuthorityhasenabledARCtogrowamaximumof245 (ARC 2013)hasbeenunprecedented.The30extraboatslipsrecentlyinstalledby For moreinformationvisit Proud ofitsrecentpartnershipwithIslandWaterWorld,whohasequippedallthe The tenOpenteams,whichrepresentacombinationofhighlyrankedmenand New thisyear,explainsregattadirectorBillCanfield,“Wewillhavethreedaysof The 6thCarlosAguilarMatchRace(CAMR)willsetsailinSt.Thomas’sscenic ‘Who’s Who’MatchRaceforNovemberinSt.Thomas For moreinformationvisitwww.worldcruising.com. Benefitting fromtheexperienceandknowledgeofWorldCruisingClub,plus ARC+ willbelimitedto50cruisingboats,andrunverymuchinthespiritof A stopintheCapeVerdeshasbeenaddedtointroduceARCsailorsanother Called ARC+thenewroutewilldepartfromLasPalmasdeGranCanariaon Having consideredmanyoptionsofhowtosatisfythewishessailorstakepart Demand fromsailorsworldwideforspacesinthe2013AtlanticRallyCruisers ARC AnnouncesCapeVerdes‘ARC+’

stbarthyachtclub.com. JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 . In June 2011 Catbird It is intended that the Grenada Sailing Week ing sailors some time to ing sailors some and explore Grenada, of of course plenty nights to party. six days starting from the last Thursday in January will be the ongoing time slot on the Caribbean racing cal- endar for this start-of- the-season event, which has the sanction of the Grenada Sailing Association and the Caribbean Sailing Association. Board members who got the regatta up and going last year — Marc DeCaul (Chairman), Richard Szyjan, Mike Bingley and Patrick Brathwaite — will contin- ue for the 2014 edition. Joining them this year is . All Set: Grenada Sailing Week 2014 All Set: Grenada 30th to Sailing Week will be January dates for the next Grenada It’s definite – the will be simi- January 30th, the format Skippers’ Briefing on Thursday Starting with the The 2013 edition drew a creditable 29 entries and succeeded beyond expecta- The 2013 edition drew a creditable 29 entries and succeeded For more information visit http://grenadasailingweek.com. February 4th, 2014 February 4th, day, followed of racing, a mid-regatta lay 2013 edition — two days lar to that of the teeth into, visit- sailors a series to get their of racing, giving serious by two more days Shawn Jardine, who was born in England and moved to Trinidad at a young age. Shawn Jardine, who was born in England and moved competitively There he got involved in sailing and power boating, racing sloop. for the past 39 years and cruising with his 36-foot sailing he joined Island Water World Grenada, bringing with him marketing and manage- he joined Island Water World Grenada, bringing with him vintner) and the auto- ment experience from his years in wine retail (he is a qualified Chandlery in mobile industry, as well as six years as manager of Peake’s demonstrated his commit- Chaguaramas, Trinidad. Since settling in Grenada he has and personally. ment to the Grenada sailing community, both professionally Using the lessons learned tions, despite the very short time frame for preparation. support of the GSW Action from the first event, this lean and keen board, with the better Grenada Sailing Week Group and committed sponsors, aims to build an even and before you know it you in 2014. So diarize these dates, make your travel plans will be “Sailing de Spice” again! New GSW board member Shawn Jardine, seen here with New GSW board member Shawn racer Robbie Yearwood at GSW 2013

DEAN BARNES Sally Barkow (far right) and Sally Barkow (far right) and Dave Perry battled for first in the 2012 Finals Continued from previous page Continued from Past winners of the CAMR read like a Who’s Who of sailing: the USA’s Sally Barkow Past winners of the CAMR read like a Who’s Who of sailing: sport, working cooperative- The CAMR is known for introducing young sailors to the provisional Grade Two event. The CAMR is an International Sailing Federation (ISAF) For more information visit www.carlosmatchrace.com. Invitees to date include defending champion Sally Barkow from the USA (10th Sally Barkow from the include defending champion Invitees to date and Finland’s Staffan Lindberg won the Open Division in 2012 and 2011, respectively, and Finland’s Staffan Lindberg won the Open Division and France’s Claire Leroy while the USA’s Genny Tulloch triumphed in 2008 and 2010 Canfield in 2008 and in 2009 in the Women’s Division, and it was the USVI’s Taylor Sailing Team in 2010 Peter Holmberg in 2009 and Portugal’s Alvaro Marinho/Seth who won in the Open Division. in its efforts to get more kids ly with the VI government and VI Department of Tourism a VI high school (under age out on the water. In 2013, each Open team will have 18) sailor as a member. authority for the CAMR, The Virgin Islands Sailing Association (VISA) is the organizing and match racer. The named for the late Carlos Aguilar, who was an avid sailor Chicago Match Race Center (CMRC) is a major sponsor. ranked Women, 26th ranked Open), the USA’s Stephanie Roble (35th ranked USA’s Stephanie Roble (35th 26th ranked Open), the ranked Women, the USVI’s (33rd ranked Open), and Dellenbaugh and Don Wilson Women), Dave slots are still Holmberg. At least four (5th ranked Open) and Peter Taylor Canfield an invitation. skippers are welcome to request available and —

JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 ALL PHOTOS: PAUL WYETH / PWPICTURES.COM / ANTIGUA SAILING WEEK SAILING ANTIGUA / PWPICTURES.COM / WYETH PAUL PHOTOS: ALL were required—andthatisexactlywhat wasdelivered. competitors andtheorganizers.Avery high standardofsailingandracecourses tions, unusualforAntigua,fashionedtactically demandingracing,testingboththe tradewind powerreturnedtoproduceexciting sailingconditions.Thelightcondi- to raceattheCaribbean’smostprestigious andinternationallyrecognizedregatta. ranging fromAustraliatoTrinidadFinland. HisMajestyKingHaraldofNorwayreturned the organizersofAntiguaSailingWeekfor puttingonsuchawell-polishedevent.” crew whohaveputsomuchskillandeffort intothiswin.Iwouldalsoliketothank prestigious trophies.“Itfeelsgreat!Ithasn’tsunkinyet,butIwanttothankthewhole his teamontothestageandsmiledwithgleeasheacceptedoneofsailing’smost time handicap, from RhodeIslandwasexquisitelysailedbyLotzandhisteam.Givingawayahuge year’s overallwinner,RichardWesslund’sFlorida-basedJ/120, best performancebyanyofthe103yachtscompetingatregatta.Takingon last intense competitionwasinthesmalleryachts. big-boat turnoutsforyears,withtenyachtsof60feetorover.However,themost Above: Bareboats,alargepartoftheAntiguaSailingWeek2013fleet,werecompetitive best ofallthem.The46theditionAntiguaSailingWeekhadonethelargest and thecompetitionsailingabilityatAntiguaSailingWeekwasdefinitely tional eventofthe2013Caribbeanracingcalendar. 2013, oneofthelongestrunningregattasinCaribbeanandlastmajorinterna- Volvo OceanRaceandVendéeGlobe from theAmerica’sCup,Olympics, racing yachtscrewedbyprofessionalsailors CSA 1wascomposedofhigh-performance The regattaexperiencedlightwindson allbutoneday,when20knotsoffull An astounding26differentcountrieswere representedatAntiguaSailingWeek2013, Phil Lotz’Swan42, I havebeenluckyenoughtoattendmanyregattasintheCaribbeanthisseason Louay HabibtakesalookattheactionandatmosphereAntiguaSailingWeek DELIVERS! ANTIGUA Arethusa Arethusa aced six out of eight races. At the Awards Ceremony, Lotz led acedsixoutofeightraces.AttheAwardsCeremony,Lotzled , was rightly awarded the Lord Nelson Trophy for the , wasrightlyawardedtheLordNelsonTrophyfor Right: Aerialviewoftheracing ANTIGUA SAILINGWEEK2013 El Ocaso , the Swan , theSwan

94-foot Frers, placement yachtsincludedthetwolargestatAntiguaSailingWeek2013: second to the crewcomefromhighlycompetitiveSoto40class. Trinidadian RP37, tastic battleforthirdplacebetweenthreelightweightflyingmachines.PeterPeake’s the “B”of“Bang”.HMKingHaraldNorway,racingRP78 races andtheirprecisionstartswereabigpartofthat,hittingthelinewithpaceon II corrected time,however,wenttoChristianPotthoff-Sewing’sGermanJV53, Locura Locura heavyweights enjoyedagentlemen’sbetforcaseofchampagne.HectorVelarde’s Cork 1720 last race,narrowlybeatingAntiguaNationalSailingAcademy’syoungcrewonthe 8 Southern Child knew theyhadtomakethetopthreewinclass. —Continuedonnextpage Thorp’s First40, Quokka Child , andLucyReynolds’First40, , whichenjoyedthelightconditions. In CSA2,mainlycomposedofhighperformancecruisingyachts,theheavierdis- In CSA1,EduardoWongLuVega’sSoto48, Class inEvery In CSA3, In CSA4,itwentrighttothewirebetweenPhilippeFalle’sGrandSoleil43, hoistedtheirspinnakeronatightreach totryreeltheoppositionin,but overthewateronmoreoccasions,sohonourswereeven.TheClasswin beat heldontotaketheclasstitle,with Kuankun Digicel Challenger Arethusa Bristolian, Bristolian spedafterthem.Literally“throwingcaution tothewind”, Lancelot II Slippery , withJoseArozamena’sAmericanFarr73, wasthechampionwith skippered byPatrickWynn,onhandicap,but , andthe92-footNelsonMarek, , madethelastpodiumplacebyjust32secondsin , inthirdplace. . Southern Child El Ocaso Kuankun Southern Child . Goingintothelastrace, second,buttherewasafan- , fliesthePeruvianflagand Quokka Locura Kuankun secondandJeremy Maximizer . Allweek,thetwo gotawaywelland wonallbartwo Bristolian Whisper , third. Southern Quokka Quokka Auliana , was beat

JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 , but the German team was Balaou

KH+P . Antigua Sailing Week veteran Alexander Pfeiffer had a . Antigua Sailing Week veteran Alexander Pfeiffer had Bageal won the coveted Lord Nelson Trophy for Best Yacht Overall For full results visit https://regattaguru.com/asw. Events such as the Nonsuch Bay RS Elite Challenge typify the social scene now Events such as the Nonsuch Bay RS Elite Challenge typify the social scene now Antigua Sailing Week’s motto is “Where sailing comes first” and that is very true ASW’s Changing Atmospheric Conditions somewhat peaceful regatta The conditions at Antigua Sailing Week made for a Arethusa Below: Bidding farewell to the 46th edition of Antigua Sailing Week with another Below: Bidding farewell to the 46th edition of Antigua spectacular awards ceremony and party at Nelson’s Dockyard prevalent at Antigua Sailing Week. The fleet racing event, right off Pigeon Beach, prevalent at Antigua Sailing Week. The fleet racing event, right off Pigeon Beach, was a spectacular occasion with Olympic and world champion sailors delivering a high calibre performance of sailing skills. On shore Nonsuch Bay’s Mitchell Husbands showed why he is a former Caribbean Chef of the Year, delivering a fan- tastic beach barbecue. — the standard of race management is as high as anywhere in the Caribbean. But another apt motto might be “Quality rather than quantity”. Antigua Sailing Week may be smaller than it was decades ago but the standard of the event, both on and off the water, is probably as good as it has ever been. to decide the winner, very inexperienced team racing another delighted with third in class. who remember the regat- atmosphere this year, which might surprise some readers hard and the bars were a ta as it was years ago, when the professional crews raced changed. Three years ago the sea of beer bottles. Well, Antigua Sailing Week has deliver a high standard both newly formed Regatta Organizing Committee set out to and evening social occasions on and off the water, with well-drilled race management suitable for all the family. Left: , — in third. Biwi Magic Sea You Later , was the clear

KH+P Batucada won all of the seven races U-Go , skippered by Alain Charlot in second and Ross Applebey’s Oyster Lightwave Great Escape of Southampton, was rightly named Best Antiguan and climbing to windward climbing to windward tied on points with Coleman Garvey’s Irish Trinidad, was third. . It took a countback on number of first places

Ormeau Bageal, .

Sea Gal won the Class by one point after a tight Biwi Magic , from Warvor and KH+P Salako Caccia alla Volpe, Teora, Jaguar won the last race of the series to win the class by a single point. won the last race of the series to win the class by a single had an epic battle in CSA 5. Both yachts traded tacks all week had an epic battle in CSA 5. Both yachts traded tacks Caccia all Volpe in a highly charged CSA 5 class in a highly charged Scarlet Oyster, Jaguar Scarlet Oyster, . Immaculately prepared and beautifully sailed, Scarlet Oyster, Continued from previous page In Bareboat 1, Alfred Geisser’s Swiss entry, the Dufour 455 This year there were four , and 29 yachts racing in the Bareboat Classes. There was fierce fighting in Bareboat 2 with some of the closest racing in any class. Carlo Falcone’s one-off, In CSA 6, Geoffrey Pidduck won all seven races with his Six Meter, In CSA 6, Geoffrey Pidduck won all seven races with Sir Hugh Bailey can be considered the grandfather of sailing in Antigua, knighted contest with the Lipari 41 Maas Hanen’s Outremer, and Phil Munday’s British Jeanneau 52.2, Peter Morris’s Frers 43, Christoff Nielsen’s German was in fine form: the team won their class in 2011 and returned this year to take the Bareboat 1 Class title and the Overall Bareboat title, winning five out of seven races. The crew celebrated by throwing Alfred into English Harbour! team on the Jeanneau SO 44i — 48, the eight-race series. In the and the overall lead changed hands four times during end, winner with French Beneteau 473, for his contribution to sailing. His Antiguan-flag spinnaker is an iconic symbol of Antigua Sailing Week and this year it was flown in all its glory above his new CS40 U-Go Caribbean Boat at the regatta. in CSA 7B. In 7A, Jorge Born’s Uruguayan Jeanneau 57, achieved a perfect score and an astounding achievement for a man who is 75 years of age. Geoffrey has been an astounding achievement for a man who is 75 years this is the first time he has coming to Antigua Sailing Week for 40 years, but JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 to have a look at our Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware Witte Raaf tguard, is ready to sail to Suriname, safe and sound. , in Trinidad during the hurricane season. They have been e-mail: [email protected] Witte Raaf Witte Raaf Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Equipment Fishing Gear was hauled out at IMS, where they are always helpful but now even was hauled out at IMS, where they are always helpful Visit their website at www.witteraaf.info. ’Bago and Trini, thanks a lot! in Suriname but keep their Petra and Jan Willem Versol are a Dutch couple who live We cleared Customs immediately and they appeared to have been waiting for us, We cleared Customs immediately and they appeared Petty Officer Solomon Lieutenant Commander Issac, Chief Petty Officer Roberts, Witte Raaf In the afternoon we cleared with Customs in Scarborough and the following day we with Customs in Scarborough and the following day we In the afternoon we cleared As our old cell phone was not working (it appeared to be incompatible with the new appeared to be incompatible phone was not working (it As our old cell to phone the Bay, keeping our promise we sailed to Store The same afternoon came alongside The following day the Coastguard cruising the Caribbean for seven years and consider the southeastern Caribbean — from Trinidad up to Dominica — their new home waters. 40-foot , without further problems. Only if we think of what could have happened…. without further problems. Only if we think of what could problems, the Coastguard as they said: “Oh good, you’re the guys with the authorities were completely asked us to confirm your arrival.” Yes, the Trinidadian on top of things! support. Because we knew and Able Seaman Pierre, we thank you for your efficient of course we were still you were monitoring us, we felt less insecure — although ready. nervous during the trip and had two grab bags at the situation in person. This made us feel much more secure and we felt less reluctant us feel much more secure and we felt less reluctant situation in person. This made to Chaguaramas, in the knowledge that help was indeed to venture the 60 miles back how quickly they would be able to get to us in case nearby. To our question about “Depending on your position, 45 minutes tops.” of an emergency, they responded: When we reached the north coast of Trinidad, a helicopter returned to Chaguaramas. We were not sure if it had actually come out espe- came hovering over our heads. our sense of safety and we arrived safely in Chaguaramas cially for us, but it added to we made a hole in the rudder more so (if that’s possible). With a borrowed grinder the chief welder at IMS, the and our suspicions proved to be correct. According to professional and solid lap Surinamese welds were shoddy and he applied some and finished with joints. The holes were filled with epoxy resin and microballoons glassfibre, and clear with them before we left Tobago. The Tobago Coastguard was very concerned Tobago Coastguard was before we left Tobago. The clear with them cell phone while would keep in contact by and we agreed that we about our safety and on HF dis- be standing by on VHF16 Tobago. They promised to we were still in 2182 Mhz. tress frequency we bought a new to the right shop where the island!) Michael took us antennas on drove us back to Castara. phone and then used the engine We did not actually sail, but departure and arrival. Coastguard upon of play). more , the more risk on the rudder (the to minimize pressure Fax: (758) 452 0311 FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR Johnson Hardware Ltd. Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils

Tel: (758) 452 0299 Tel:

by Petra and Jan Willem Versol by Petra and Jan Willem HELP FROM FROM HELP , out of the Boca de Monos near Chaguaramas, Trinidad bound for , out of the Boca de Monos

Witte Raaf T&T AUTHORITIES T&T

One of the officers, AB Pierre, was especially assigned to our case and he even We related our story to both helpful people and one of them, Junior, immediately We related our story to both helpful people and one of We concluded that we needed advice and support from the Coastguard. But from the Coastguard. But We concluded that we needed advice and support From Charlotteville we headed for Castara, where we anchored close to Paradise From Charlotteville we headed for Castara, where we Escorted by a dozen dolphins — for good luck, we always think — we sailed our — for good luck, we always think — we sailed our Escorted by a dozen dolphins Rodney Bay, St. Lucia

MUCH APPRECIATED APPRECIATED MUCH

Arriving and at anchor in Castara Bay, where we realized we had rudder trouble. Thanks to helpful Tobagonians and a caring Coas Arriving and at anchor in Castara Bay, where we realized a potentially worsening problem resulted in no drama contacted Customs in Charlotteville for us to explain why we would not be able to called the Coastguard for us and lent us his phone. It soon became clear that we had called the Coastguard for us and lent us his phone. It man, Michael, took us to better see the Coastguard in person, and the other helpful where we explained the situ- the Coastguard’s Tobago headquarters in Scarborough, ation to four friendly officers. They were all very understanding and helpful, which was a huge relief. according to Murphy’s Law, our cell phone was not working in Tobago, so we din- according to Murphy’s Law, our cell phone was not working towards us when two local ghied up to Castara Beach where help came rushing almost upside down while fellows immediately came to our rescue as we went considerable . Murphy’s beaching our dinghy in a caused by the Law, remember! Beach right next to a beautiful . But after two days the romance was Beach right next to a beautiful coral reef. But after tick”. The rudder. The problem abruptly disturbed when we heard: “tick - tick – tick – had been broken before was immediately clear to us as the fingers inside the rudder of years ago. Now, obviously, and were renewed and re-welded in Suriname a couple those fingers the shaft in the again they had broken off the rudder shaft. Without if more play develops, the boat rudder has no connection with the rudder blade and may lose her steerage. yacht, and wind was southeasterly, we changed our plan Suriname. But because the in Tobago, awaiting more favourable wind directions decided to stop for ten days the effects of the infamous Guyana Current. plus a neap tide to diminish JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 —Continuedonnextpage road isabigdarkrockonyourright. farmland. Justbeforeafairlysharprightturninthe a quickdip.Theroadcontinuesupthroughdelightful upper reachesoftheIndianRiverwithbathingpoolsfor trees liningitsomeoftheway.Theroadcrosses compound ontheothersideofgrassyroad. of industrialthingwithcementtrucksandabigfenced maybe thestable’ssignstillonyourright,andsomekind al aheadofyou,probablysomehorsesonyourright, your right.Atthispointyoucanseethetopofabigaeri- minutes’ walkingwillbringyoutoawidegrassyroadon out oftowninthedirectionCalibishie.Sometento15 turn rightbythebussquare,goingalongmainroad at theIndianRiver.Fromthere,walkbackintotown,and can beusedforshorterwalks.Moreaboutthatlater. and trees.Iffourhoursistoolong,eitherendofthetrail with rednumbers.Thesearepaintedonrocks,stones are markedwithblueandyellowpaintsometimes medical school.Thetrailandsomepartsleadingintoit the trail,andthenbailoutwhennottoofarfrom going towalkoutofPortsmouthandtakeapathjoin Waitukubuli Trail,butinthisshortenedversionyouare allow youtocooloff. lenging attimes,butswimmingholesbothendswill hike, aboutfourhourslong,toughenoughtobechal- through lovelyfarmlandthenintorainforest.Itisaloop Turn downthegrassyroad;itislovely,withguava The bestplacetoleaveyourdinghyisatthedock A goodpartofthehikeisonSection11 This trailnearPortsmouth,Dominicatakesyou DOMINICA Mountain Loop, Mountain Loop, A Farmland and

ALL PHOTOS: CHRIS DOYLE SAILORS’ HIKESBYCHRISDOYLE Inset:AsuspensionfootbridgetakesyouoverthePicardRiver This trailprovidesasplendidviewoverPortsmouthtownandanchorage JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 , and the Fajardo at • Complementary Cable TV and Wi-Fi • Water and Electricity • Restrooms and Showers • Laundry Facilities • Nearby Ship's Chandlery and Convenience Store • Near Small Eateries and Upscale Elegant Restaurants such as El Conquistador Hotel and Casino • US Custom and Immigration Located 1/2 mile Away by Dinghy • Ample Parking www.sunbaymarina.com AMENITIES Join us today . Visit his website at www.doyleguides.com. Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands and be part of our family. our webpage VISIT US! 787.863.0313 787.863.5282 [email protected] ¡ open 7 days a week from 8:00 am to 4:00 pm or at the Administration Office at the Marina, T: F: E: Parcelas Beltrán, Bo. Sardinera, Fajardo, Puerto Rico • Professional and Courteous Staff • 282 Fixed Slips • Wide Concrete Finger Piers • On-Site Fuel Dock and Diesel Delivered on all Slips except on Dock “A” • Safety, Cleanliness and Service is our Primary Concern • Whole Area Patrolled by 24 Hour Security • Camera Surveillance • Official Cruising Station of SSCA THE DIFFERENCE IS THE DIFFERENCE IS ...... If you want a shorter walk, the first part of this hike, to the Indian River water If you want a shorter walk, the first part of this hike, Chris Doyle is the author of the Face to face with the forest. This fabulous foliage means abundant rainfall, Face to face with the forest. This fabulous foliage means so be prepared for slippery parts along the trail what we do and the way we do it. we do it. what we do and the waywhat we do and the way However, you are really going to have to look, as it is aligned for people coming the However, you are really going to have to look, as it is is a building, under construc- other way along the trail. A little higher than the sign tion when we passed, with water pipes stacked up. same way you came. From the source, is a perfectly lovely and easy walk. Return the bridge and up to the shel- other end, you could take a picnic across the suspension the road and follow it up to ter with a view. Afterwards you can return, turn left on the river. the old water source, and spend some time playing in Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands beginning of the hike. From the Riverside Restaurant, come out to the main road and Restaurant, come out to the hike. From the Riverside beginning of the road on your supermarket. Take the first the bridge and pass the turn right, cross Continue a long of the medical school. right beside a utilitarian part left, which is on your left. Trail sign pointing downhill Look for the Waitukubuli way up this road. Close to: Higher up the road you will Higher up the The sign points up the moun- come to a major road division; come to a major right turn here, you take a the Waitukubuli clearly marked will soon turn Trail. The road you will have into a path and an been walking now about but hour. The path is uphill, you good walking. At one point little pass right between two farm huts. The path continues you up and up and you think are going to the top of a moun- trail tain, but happily there is a clear sign and you come to a half division (about one and hours from town). a tain, but you want to make right turn here into the forest. the You have now come off feeder into the Waitukubuli trail; Trail and are on the main little this where the hike gets a challenging. is a tradition, in family boatingis a tradition, in family boating is a tradition, in family boatingis a tradition, in family boating Continued from previous page Continued from If you hike the trail the other way round, you do the difficult part more at the If you hike the trail the other way round, you do the Walk on up to the road. Here you will be turning right to get off the trail and back Walk on up to the road. Here you will be turning right About three hours into your hike you come to a delightful covered shelter with a About three hours into your hike you come to a delightful Your trail continues on up the road, but if you take a tiny path down past this if you take a tiny path on up the road, but Your trail continues and then up and up on the The path takes you steeply down into a deep ravine, The trail is muddy and slippery in places. It is mainly well marked, though very in places. It is mainly well marked, though very The trail is muddy and slippery into civilization. However a short way down you will find access to the river and a into civilization. However a short way down you will hungry and thirsty, Riverside great swimming hole called Basin Powell. If you are way to get back to the Indian Restaurant is just a short walk away, and the quickest the coast. River is to pass through the Customs area and follow picnic table with a panoramic view over Prince Rupert Bay. You can breathe a sigh picnic table with a panoramic view over Prince Rupert material cannot be as of relief here; the path that was used to carry all the building downhill and still quite bad as the one you have come along. However, it is steeply suspension bridge will challenging. You come down to the river where a fabulous take you across. rock it brings you very shortly to a small pretty spring, one of the sources of the pretty spring, one of the you very shortly to a small rock it brings Indian River. for some of the time and here other side. It then takes you along attractive ridge lines to be negotiated. it is easier. But there is still some tricky downhill work — but lots of these have washed small and often steep. Many steps have been cut in, much of the time. You out. Luckily you are in the forest so trees serve as handholds and avoid a fall. Be prepared are going deep into the forest here, so take your time for some butt slides if you feel more comfortable. JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 [email protected] www.sunsail.com Tel: 17844584308 Fax: 1784 4568928 PO Box 133, BlueLagoon, St. Vincent, West Indies Sunsail

age. HegrewupinHollandonalakewherehisfamily go down.” reward isthatitalmostaspiritualjourneywhenyou you seemorethanifyou’reinarainforest.Thebiggest nature atitspurest.Whenyougooutonareefhere, era. ButwhenIdive,that’sallgone.Thereisonly artificially created—stress,societalpressures,etcet- all encompassing.Alotofelementsinourdailylifeare ferent journey.I’mawake.Therearenothoughts.It’s a physicalexperience.EverytimeIgodownit’sdif- personal forme.It’smoreofamentalexperiencethan the plungeand“beinginnow”.“Freedivingisvery He talksalotaboutthemeditativequalitiesoftaking freediver wasmorelikeconversingwithaZenmaster. sensational. Butspeakingwiththisfit,30-something the extremeanddaring,Iexpectedtohear about goingdeep.Forasportthathasreputationfor Mission accomplished. later, theyoungDutchdiverbrokesurface. stretch. Youjusthavetoputthingsintoperspective.” my mind.Youcannotgoupduringthathorizontal It’s astable,veryopenwrecksotheonlybarrierisin thing thatchangesisswimmingthroughthewreck. That’s adepthI’mreallycomfortablewith.Theonly “I amusedtoswimmingdownahundredfeet. fore hatch—allinonebreath. the lengthof235-footvessel,andascendfrom dive downtotheship,enteratsternhatch,swim well knowntoscubadivers.Hoogenboom’splanwas Hoogenboom’s affinityforwaterstartedatayoung But freedivingforHoogenboomisnotnecessarily And thatisjustwhathedid.Nearlythreeminutes “I alwayswantedtodivethe N the dozen friendstowitnesshisfreediveon Bonaire. Leohadinvitedmeanda of gin-clearwateroffthecoast Hoogenboom Iwasfloatingin100feet early Hilma Hooker Marine thefirsttimeImetLeo Hilma Hooker Centre

, afamousshipwreck ,” saysLeo.

Come rediscover themagicofSaint Vincent… …your onestopmarine centre intheGrenadines your mind,bodywillfollow.” breath, mentalstateandrelaxation.Whenyourelax water confidence,thatyoubecomemoreawareofyour But thegoalofcourseshouldbethatyougainin- ming technique.Certainly,Iteachandcertifypeople. opment intermsofbreathing,relaxationandswim- tain biking,caving,hikingand,ofcourse,freediving. adventure serviceonBonairethatspecializesinmoun- the ApneaAcademy.HenowoperatesFLOW,an and becamealicensedfreedivinginstructorthrough went toSharmelSheik,Egyptforaneight-daycourse while beingfreeofalltheequipment.In2008,Leo scuba diver,butlovedsnorkelinganddivingunder operated awatersportsbusiness.Later,hebecame byPatrickHolian The clienteleatFLOWrangesfromextreme-sports “Our freedivingcourseisfocusedonpersonaldevel- BREATH TAKING A DEEP * * * * * Fuel Dock A/C Power 110/220 Free WiFi Mini Market Marina Full Service * * * * *

Beach Bar Sail Loft/Canvas Dive Centre Car Rental Showers ZSUZSANNA PUSZTAI ZSUZSANNA —Continuedonnextpage pher. “Butthefunpartisthattheycomeback. and theymoveaway,”saysthefreedivingphotogra- animals. “Thefishsenseyouwhenfirstcomedown iving becauseitallowsherbetteraccesstounderwater says that50percentofherphotosarenowdonefreed- freedive andtheskillsetwascomplete.Zsuzsanna ter photography.Thenherhusbandtaughthowto things underwater.”Yearslater,shelearnedunderwa- Jacques CousteausoIalwaysknewwantedtodo worker inhernativeHungary.“ButIgrewupon ness partner.Inaformerlife,Zsuzsannawassocial BonPhoto’s ZsuzsannaPusztai,Leo’swifeandbusi- walls arethestunningunderwaterphotographsof building withBonPhoto,asistercompany.Gracingthe resort, CaptainDon’sHabitat,andsharesasmall gear neededtofreedive. than perhapsaweightbelt,thatisalltheessential rent atFLOWandlessthan$400ifpurchased.Other once under.Thisqualitypackagecosts$15/dayto out ofthewayunderwater.Noneedforsnorkel It hooksonthebackofmaskstrapsothatitstays kel isasimple,flexibletubemadeforeasybreathing. pressure thatoccursonafastdescent.Andthesnor- are basicblackandfitclosetotheface,limiting ers efficientpropulsionforaspeedyascent.Themasks descend quicklyformorebottomtimeandalsodeliv- extra longandstiff,almostbrittle.Thisallowsoneto animals thanterrestrialanimals.” memory ofthewater.We’remorerelatedtomarine more awareness,youcanusethatconnection, to activatethatsensewhichcomeswithtrainingand dealing withgravityaswenormallydo.Onceyoulearn with ninemonthsinthewomb.You’rehovering,not Every singlepersonstartshisorherlifeinthewater heritage inthewater.There’sacollectivememory. that itisnaturalforustobeinthewater.Wehavea water andwereveryrelaxed.Youneedtoremember the course,theyweredivingdowntoten15feetof water butwantedtoworkontheirskills.Bytheendof both abitoverweight,whowerenotcomfortableinthe accommodate theneedsofall.“Ihadtwo65-year-olds, unique underwaterexperience.Hoogenboomtriesto types intheir20stoolderfolkswhowanthavea sea creatures Zsuzsanna totakeclose-upshotsofunspooked Left: Nobubbles,notroubles.Freedivingallows mental experiencethanaphysicalexperience’ Above: ZsuzsannaandLeo.‘Freedivingismoreofa FLOW islocatedinfrontofthefamedBonairedive Leo showsmeabasicfreedivingkit.Thefinsare

Shop * * * * * Mooring Balls Laundry Book Exchange Prince &QueensBoutique Black Pearl Restaurant JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 .com , 35 feet below. This is the house La Machaca Once again, I find myself floating in the water with At 54, Egbreghts still freedives nearly every week. At still freedives nearly every At 54, Egbreghts says Funchi, “I freedive “You have to understand,” “Have you found any treasure?” “Oh yeah, I found treasure.” “What kinds of things?” laughs again. “Myself. I’m a treasure.” He Egbreghts is attracted toJust like the sport freedivers, ••• Leo Hoogenboom. He has just attached a line to an old Leo Hoogenboom. He has just attached a line to an old wreck, reef for Captain Don’s Habitat. Holding on to the plat- form, a bright yellow, rectangular float attached to the line below, Leo reviews the basic steps for my descent. Relax horizontally in the water. Breathe slowly and deeply two to three times. Hold in your last breath and bend at the waist. —Continued on page 45 got two, I would have one on the gaff and one in my have one on the gaff and got two, I would from lob- up.” Funchi shows the scars arm coming “It’s dan- on his forearm and grins. sters’ spiny shells gerous work.” fishing line and netting, times, he removes dives, he and kill sea turtles. On other that can entrap and chain — for lead ballast, wood, scavenges wrecks sell on land. he might be able to use or anything that doing this. freediver covers a vast area The Bonairean island.” along the entire coast of the plunge. His passion goes farthe simplicity of taking the the challenge in life. The lastbeyond the hunt. “I still like , just like the oldtwo times I went without the of freediving. You don’tdays. That’s the real meaning have your knife. You don’thave your watch. You don’t your body and the sea.” have anything. It’s just you, to be comfortable in the water’ simplest gear. ‘I want to inspire people Right: Leo loves being underwater with only the Like many, Egbreghts took those hard-earned skills, Today, it is difficult to find grouper, and Meyer is an eight-time world record holder and is listed world record holder Meyer is an eight-time all this new of record-setting But even with Above: A French angelfish. ‘The fish sense you when you first come down and they move away. But the fun part is that they come back’ would throw their coins into the water. All of us kids would throw their coins into the water. All of us kids would dive for the money. It was about 40 feet down. That is how I started making freedives fast. Fast money!” He laughs. “Then I would run to the bank and deposit my coins. That was my freediving school.” and as a young man, fished under water. He would collect conch, spear fish and harvest lobster. “In the old days, we hunted the Nassau grouper when they migrated here from Venezuela looking for deeper water in which to spawn.” and conch harvesting are prohibited. But freedivers like Egbreghts are still allowed to collect lobster when in season. “I learned to stay under for four to five min- utes looking for lobster. They can be anywhere from four to 80 feet. I would catch one or two each dive. If I improve performance with plenty of security.” improve performance her what Book of World Records. I asked in the Guinness of theto dive so deep. “It’s the challenge motivates her I enjoy the blue and the silence. dive plus the pressure, we hope people have been. In the future going where few divers, so freediving classes for Brazilian to offer yearly know this beautiful place.” they can get to generations. has known freediving for dives, Bonaire Egbreghts, who started Just ask Gielmon “Funchi” years ago. “We didn’t have diving as a young boy 45 But when they would many cruise ships back then. big event. The passengers depart the island, it was a Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Yacht Barefoot • Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop • Mechanical & Electrical Repairs • Vehicle Rentals • Raymarine Electronics • Ice & Water • Fibreglass Repairs • Island Tours Work • Refrigeration • Quiksilver Surf Wear • On-site Accommodation • Laundry • Showers • Wi-Fi / Internet Café • Restaurant & Bar • Diesel & Propane • Surftech Surf Shop • Book Exchange • Boutique • Moorings • Hotel Reservations • Air Travel PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238

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Continued from previous page Continued from “I like Bonaire because of the high quality of services These ideal conditions have certainly captured the These ideal conditions have certainly captured the Apparently, there are more than Zsuzsanna ever One recent involvement was with a friendly octopus was with a friendly One recent involvement They make the formation again. You don’t get that formation again. You don’t They make the

[email protected] www.barefootyachts [email protected]

and structure at the Buddy Dive Resort and the hos- pitality of the Bonaire people. That combined with the perfect conditions to practice the sport allows us to attention of those in South . , a attention of those in South America. Carlos Coste, a world-record holding freediver from Venezuela, brings in a group of students a couple of times a year to conduct freediving workshops on Bonaire. The week- long training is held at Eden Beach in cooperation with Wanna Dive, a full service dive shop. And then there is Karol Meyer, the decorated Brazilian diver who has come to the island since 2009 to break deep- water records. imagined. Leo Hoogenboom finds Bonaire to be the imagined. Leo Hoogenboom finds Bonaire to be the perfect island for this up and coming sport. “Bonaire has great reefs and deep water right next to shore. You truly can swim out from the surface and do a world- record event. There are not a lot of places where you can do that.” The contact with the octopus, that’s what drives me. The contact with the octopus, that’s what drives me. That is why I’m doing this. How many people can say that they experience nature this way?” off the coast of Klein Bonaire, Bonaire’s offshore islet. Klein Bonaire, Bonaire’s off the coast of At some point at 25 feet. I followed him. “There it was swimming off, away. And instead of I got a few inches the way. I took two photos. the octopus opened up all at each other then. That The octopus and I just looked realize how special the moment took me away. I didn’t But it was the experience. photo was until afterwards. with scuba and all its bubbles. I have this thing though all its bubbles. I have this with scuba and I sometimes in my subjects that — I get so interested but it’s I have to pay better attention lose track of time. involved.” so easy to get — JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 lic enclosures,metallicequipmentorearth. of anelectricalcircuitandthenormallynon-current-carrying conductors,i.e.,metal- unintentional, electricallyconductingconnection betweenanungroundedconductor contacts. Moreonhowwecanusethisinformation totestourboatslater. somewhere else(toearth/ground,ortoanother circuit),andthedevicewillopenits between twoconductors.Ifthesedonot sum tozero,thereisaleakageofcurrent varies fromcountrytocountry.RCDs operate bymeasuringthecurrentbalance necting quicklyenough(<30ms),theymay preventelectrocution. By detectingsmallleakagecurrents(typicallyfiveto30milliamperes)anddiscon- ply RCDs.RCDsaredesignedtodisconnectthecircuitifthereisaleakagecurrent. (GFI). Inothercountriestheyaresometimesknownassafetyswitches,tripsorsim- as agroundfaultcircuitinterrupter(GFCI)orshortenedto Above: Replacingtheshaftzincson Top: Groundedseacocks protection (RCBO),andthatIhavea“leaking”boat. Interrupt (GFCI)combinedwitharesidual-currentcircuitbreakeroverload islands useEuropeanstandardsthatincludeaverysensitiveGroundFaultCircuit fine ontheEnglish-speakingislandsusingUS/Canadianequipment,butFrench equipment. in St.LuciaandPortLouisGrenada,sosomethingmustbewrongwiththeir boat — was dispatchedtoassistquicklydecidedthattheresomethingwrongwithour and promptlyblewthecircuitbreakeronpowerpole.Amarinaemployeewho Guadeloupe intheLesserAntilles,wepluggedtoa220volt,50ampoutlet— byMauriceHowland A ‘LEAKING’ The technicaldefinitionforagroundfault withAlternatingCurrent(AC)is:an Leakage currentthreshold,responsetime andthemethodofdeploymentRCDs In theUSandCanadaaresidual-currentdevice(RCD)ismostcommonlyknown Later, aFrench-Canadianelectricianexplainedthatyes,myboatprobablyworked Upon arrivalatMarinaBas-du-Fort,onthesouthendofFrenchisland oui

. Ideclaredthatourboatwasfineatthelasttwomarinas:RodneyBay BOAT Motivator

—Continuedonnextpage be asumzerosituation.Ifyourboatisnot leakingtheampmetershouldreadzero. current flowisreallyintwodirections,it isalternating.Itmustcancelitselfout,or for currentleakageclamparoundthewhole cord.Withalternatingcurrent(AC)the ing amperageflowthroughaconductor so youclamponlyaroundonewire.Tolook current tosomewhere.Normallywhenusing aclamp-onampmeteryouaremeasur- balance betweentwoconductors?Ifthese donotsumtozero,thereisaleakageof Remember abovewhereIsaidthattheway RCDsworkisbymeasuringthecurrent French marina? plugged intoafinicky to bereplaced. ing inverter/chargerhad was plugged.Theoffend- broiling elementtheleak necting theseldom-used we foundthatbydiscon- could eatout.However, for theovenwasthatwe The Firstmate’ssolution charger andtheoven. offenders, theinverter/ out thatwehadtwo ment backon.Itturned ally turnedtheequip- then watchasIindividu- at thepowerpole,and the GFCI/RCBOswitch the breakersoff,reset simply hadmeturnall equipment waseasy.He offending electrical Guadeloupe, findingthe the electricianin our boatisleaking?For not repellingdinner. concern ourselveswith We shouldprobablyonly best lefttothe“experts.” electricity isprobably Attracting fishusing into purseseines. menhaden andshrimp electricity tohelpherd have effectivelyused Commercial fishermen repelled byelectricity. attracted and/or proven thatfishareboth entific researchhas electrical leak.Yes,sci- fish, youmayhavean or yourneighborprobablyhasanelectricalleak. aging corrosion.Ifyouarereplacingyourshaftandhullzincsatarapidpace, do thosekindsoftestsonthem! acid .” with dryhands,handsmoistfromperspirationanddrippingwetweak to determinethevaluesneededpreventelectricalshock. women toelectricalshocksandmeasuringthe“let-gothreshold.”Hewasthenable of CaliforniaatBerkeley.Inhis1961paperhedescribessubjecting134menand28 plished byCharlesF.Dalziel,aprofessorofelectricalengineeringattheUniversity undetectable tolethal.MostoftheresearchthatledRCDs/GFIswasaccom- actual amountofcurrenttheygetrunthroughtheirheart,theshockcanrangefrom in thewateraroundboat,theyaregoingtogetshocked.Dependingupon the bigconcern?Aleakingboatcankill.Ifaswimmerentersintocurrentpath marinas beforethatfinickyFrenchmarinawouldnotplaynicewithus.So,whatis some oftheleakagecurrentwillfollowyourpowercordbacktosource. are pluggedintothedock,andifthatdock’sgroundingsystemisingoodshape, via theunderwatermetalasittriestofindapathbackitssource.If(abigif)you and strutmountstogetherelectricallyviaagreen8AWGwire.AnACleakwillexit system connectsalltheunderwatermetalobjectslikebronzeseacocks,rudderposts connected togetheratthebackofboat’selectricalpanel,andbonding that At marinasinEnglish-speakingcountries,theauthordidn’trealize But whatifyouarenot But, howdoweknowif If youarenotcatching Even currentbelowlethalamounts(1ampAC)willcauseextremelyfastanddam- We wereoblivioustoourboat’selectricalleakforhundredsofmilesandnumerous Boats builtaccordingtoABYCstandardshavetheACandDCgroundingsystems Motivator was‘leaking’ They justdon’tmakecollegestudentslikethatanymore,orletyou Motivator’s electricalpanel “Other testsweremade JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 . Motivator. Continued from previous page Maurice and Pollie Howland are cruising the Caribbean aboard the DeFever Maurice and Pollie Howland are cruising the Caribbean aboard the DeFever Once you have detected and repaired any leaks, you are ready to catch the big ones An improvised stray current detector can be constructed by attaching a 5-by-7 A check should also be made for stray current in the water especially to ensure The best way to take this measurement is to turn on your AC appliances one by The best way to take this measurement is to turn on Electrical leaks are said to repel fish; stopping leaks certainly worked for the author! 49 Top left and rightA handy digital clamp multimeter can be used with a silver chloride electrode (left) or over a shore cord (above left) — happy hunting. inch of copper flashing to a broomstick. Then attach a wire to the copper and use cable-ties to secure it to the pole. Set your multimeter to DC voltage and con- nect the wire from the copper plate to the positive side of your multimeter. The negative side of the multimeter should be connected to a negative battery terminal or a reliable ground. Stick the copper plate in the water and walk around the boat’s parameter looking for a voltage change. The voltmeter should show a natural read- ing of around 0.6 to 0.9 volts. If, as you activate DC components you see a jump of 0.05 volts or more, you have found at least one of the leakers. Now, switch your multimeter to AC and do the same thing with the AC components. your boat is not driving fish away and eating zincs. This is best performed away from the dock so that you are not reading your neighbors leakage. A silver chloride elec- trode is the best type of reference electrode for detecting stray current and testing for cathodic protection corrosion systems (zincs) in seawater environments. The one available from BoatZincs.com has an electrode that plugs into your multimeter for ease of taking readings (directions included). one and see if the reading changes, just like the electrician in Guadeloupe had me one and see if the reading changes, just like the electrician turn on appliances, then you do. If you get a reading that keeps going up as you neutral to ground connection have what is called a “false ground” whereby there is a at the panel board or at an (common in land-based electrical connections) either appliance that should not exist. Caption — JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 or personalpossessionisworthriskinginjury.Followtheseprocedures: resisting. (Forgetthemovesyouhaveseeninactionmovies.)Noamountofmoney one shot. withdrawal besurenooneiswatchingandnevertakealargesumofmoneyin night. Goonlytothebusiestbanksandduringday.Whenyoumakeyour and alsowhereyougotolime(hangout). ing you.Donotrepeatthesameroutinedaily.Stagger(nopunintended)yourhours that meantorobyouknowwhatdoandwhenit;theyhavebeenwatch- hours andthenmakeyourwaybacktoboat,youmustunderstandthatthose local guidethatyoucantrust. wants more;itgivesyousomethingtogive. have value.Localbeadsandcheapwatchesaregoodtowearincasethemugger make aquickreport. to keepalistofallcardsandtheirnumberssothatifthearestolenyoucan them amongdifferentpocketsordividewithapersonwhoisyou.Besure is notobvious.Inaddition,nevercarryallofyourcreditcardsinoneplace;separate type thatcanbesnatched.Carrycreditcardsandwalletsinabuttonedpocket away cash. cards, donotthrowthemaway.Carryinadummywalletalongsidethethrow- get away,andwillnotstoptoexamineawadofcash.Ifyouhaveexpiredcredit and kepttogetherwitharubberband.Moststreetmuggerswanttodotheact appears tobeallyouhave.Itcan20singleswitha$10billontop,foldedinhalf fast. Helpthemdothatbybeingreadyforthem. robber wantsisyourwallet(i.e.creditcardsandmoney)togetaway follow youtoseewherego,howoftenandbywhatroute. your boatwatchtoseewhenyouleavethesotheycanboardit.Othersmay repairs, eatatrestaurants,andevenjustwalkaround.Thosewhowanttoburglarize rise todifferentvariables;payattentionwhereyouareatalltimes. where crimeoccursandhowitoccurs.Eachareaorlocationisdifferentgives Part2: Caribbean Cruisingand • Donotlookthemuggerineye. • Becooperativeandforthcomingwithmeetingtheirdemands. • Donotresist.Stayascalmyoucanandmakenosuddenmovements. If accosted,theonlycourseofactionthatyoucansafelyutilizeinallcasesisnot REACTIVE MEASURES • IfyouuseanATMmachine,nevergoaloneifcanavoiditandat • Avoiddarkstreetsandplaces.Ifyouliketohangoutinbarsuntilthewee • Neverwalkinaremoteareawheretherearenotouristsunlessyouwith • Neverwear“real”jewelrytotown.Removeanythingofvalueorthatappears • Nevercarryyourwalletinbackpocketorpurseiftheis Always carry“throw-awaycash”.Throwawaycashisawadofsmallbillsthat • Nomatterwhethertheyarearmedornot,whatweaponhave,a PRE-EMPTIVE MEASURES There aremeasuresyoucantaketoreducerisk. As cruisersweneedtogoashorereprovision,findreplacementpartsand On Land In ordertoreducetheriskofbeingavictimcrimewhilecruising,youmustknow THE SPECIFICS shadow effect. is reflected,usea“fillflash”tosoftenthe much betterfortakingphotos.Ifsurfacelight water. Overcastdays withdispersedlightare comes fromsunnydayswithwindoverthe STUNNING UNDERWATER Underwater PhotosUsingInexpensive Point Hard, reflectivelightsuchasontheseabed Crime Prevention and ShootCameras"byScott Fratcher, available onKindle, Apple, andebook. Excerpt from"HowtoTake Stunning PHOTO TIP! by FrankVirgintino

BETTY KARL —Continuedonnextpage dinghy andtheenginearelocked. stern rail.Ifyouleavethedinghyinmarinanexttoyourboat,besureboth curtains. Be surethatnothingvaluableinsideisvisiblefromtheoutside;drawallshadesand hatches securely. first place. pany willfollowup.Insuranceornot,thebestmethodistopreventtheftin your equipmentback.Ifyouhaveinsurance,fileaclaimandinsurancecom- provided reasonablecare.Gettingintoanargumentwiththemarinawillnotget cases, ifyoutakeamarinatocourtfornegligence,theyneedonlyprovethat exception totheirexperience.Inotherwords,theyarenotresponsible.most to addthattheydonothaveahistoryoftheftinthemarinaandyouarean therefore cannotascertainwhatyouclaimtobemissing.Moreover,theyarelikely management willsayisthattheydidnotknowwhatinventoryyouarrivedwithand than justadmiringyourboatafteryoushowhimallofitsinsandouts. fellow whooffersyouabeerandadmiresyourboatmighthavemoreinhismind men onotherboats,crewandallwhocomego.Thatinnocent are manyinthemarinawhowilltakenote.Thiscanincludeotherboatowners,work- not happen. mugged inthemarina;mostmarinasgooutoftheirwaytoensurethatdoes the marinaandkeepsaneyeonthings. type ofsettingthatiseasytofeelsafein.Mostmarinashavesecuritypatrols include restaurantsandpools,barsevenavarietyofdifferentstores.Itisthe Boats atanchormaybewatched • Lockyouroutboardmotorwhenitisonthedinghyandalso • DonotleaveelectronicssuchaslaptopsandiPadslyingaroundinplainsight. • PRE-EMPTIVE MEASURES What canbedonetoprotectyourboatwhileitisinamarina? Marinas arenotliableinmostcasesifyouburglarized.Thefirstthingthe However, ifyouleaveyourboatinamarinaanditthereforsometime, What aretherisks?Generallyspeaking,itislessthanlikelythatyouwillbe Marinas intheCaribbeanareusuallybeautifulplaces.Manyhavefacilitiesthat In MarinasandBoatyards • Letthemhavewhattheywantsocanleavequickly. • Donotbecomeaggressiveorangry. Always lockyourboatcompletelywhenyouleaveandbesuretodogall JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 18.25.50N 18.25.50N 69.36.67W When there is nothing to steal, nothing When there is nothing to steal, • Showers, Laundry, Restaurant, 24 hr security • Immigration office in the marina for clearance • Free WIFI and Free Internet • Dinghy Dock • 12 miles East of Santo Domingo & 7 miles East of International Airport THE FOCAL POINT FOR CRUISING YACHTSMENTT iiiii Z rrrr

Tel: 809 523 5858 VHF Channel 5 aaaaa If you remove all valuable gear when the boat is decommissioned, there boat is decommissioned, there all valuable gear when the If you remove

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MMMM Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Marina Zar-Par Some areas have much higher crime rates than other areas. Consult databases areas. Consult databases Some areas have much higher crime rates than other • If you must leave valuable gear on board or do not want to remove it, then other gear on board or do not want to remove it, then other • If you must leave valuable deck while you are gone and the engine on the stern If you leave your dinghy on At Anchor or on Moorings among other boats inspires a sense of safety and cama- Being anchored or moored fact that “loose lips sink ships.” When someone asks • Stay very conscious of the securely. Carry a VHF to maintain contact with • Always lock your boat everything that has any value and which can be • Be sure to stow out of sight radio loud enough for those • When leaving the boat at night, leave on lights and a of time, have someone • If you must leave the boat for any significant amount a locally sponsored picnic or • Sad to say, if you are going to go ashore as part of Underway your boat at sea usually has The type of thief who will look to overtake and board the circumstances. Make no • If boarded, try to stay as collected as you can, given Reduction of Risk is the Key to Cruising Security crime is to avoid the incident.The surest way to reduce your risk of being a victim of The best way to avoid the incident is to reduce the probability. areas where the probability The best way to reduce the probability is to avoid • The best way to secure the boat on the hard for extended storage is to leave the hard for extended storage to secure the boat on the • The best way will do the any boat: a small crowbar matter to break into virtually It is a simple • High Quality Sheltered Moorings • Slips to 120’ with depth 10’ • 70 Ton Travelift (30' beam) • ABYC certified machanics • Shore power 30, 50 and 100 amps • All slips with fingers that can give you accurate information on past instances of crime against yachts. of crime against yachts. that can give you accurate information on past instances www.noonsite.com. Another Noonsite is excellent and free; it can be found at excellent free resource for crime information is www.safetyandsecuritynet.com. www.freecruisingguides.com Both of these sites provide data on crime. Also free, give you the “probability of offers the Caribbean Security Index (CSI), which will choose anchorages and route crime” in different areas of the Caribbean. Use it to course and destinations. is no reason for the companionway door to be locked. Ask the boatyard if they have to be locked. Ask the boatyard the companionway door is no reason for it all, even other valuable gear and remove for your electronics and separate storage additional cost. if it takes longer and generates gets stolen. In Everything must be locked up as securely as possible. precautions are necessary. can must be made secure. Put everything you addition, all hatches and entrances out of sight. the that they will not be there when you return. Ask rail, there is a high probability and engine for you even if you have to pay extra. marina to hold the dinghy are of security is anything but real. Boats at anchor raderie. However, the sense his could be the boat boy or the fish vendor who tells watched by many people. It the who is on board and what is available. It could be friends in the business of theft equipment. fellow cruiser who covets your aboard whenever, always say yes. you innocently if you will be the anchorage. stolen easily, for example laptops, cameras, etcetera. passing by to hear. and hire a responsible watch it. Ask a neighbor to keep an eye on it or get references local person to boat-sit while you are gone. in the anchorage also attend- barbecue, or another event with a lot of other cruisers a bunch of boats will be ing, you are at high risk — too many people know when someone aboard or hire a vulnerable. Unless a good harbor patrol is in place, leave boat-sitter. prepared to get into a firefight weapons and knows how to use them. Unless you are hurt or even killed. Most with them, it is best not to resist or you can be seriously get away. They do not want often what they really want is to take what you have and and leaves them open to to seriously hurt or kill anyone as that raises the stakes being hunted down. they came for. Hopefully, they eye contact with anyone and let them take what it is you for more, give it to them will take what they want and leave quickly. If they ask may steal; you cannot replace and do not play cute. You can replace what it is they your life! is highest. virtually every boatyard will not take responsibility for your loss. How can they? They for your loss. How boatyard will not take responsibility virtually every in the first place. what you had on the boat did not know had many years sound crazy, but I have cabin unlocked. This may door to the main companionway and by leaving the owning and managing boatyards of experience risk of damage. avoid theft and reduce the unlocked you trick nicely

ROSIE BURR Continued from previous page Continued from For those who will leave the boat for a number of months during hurricane season For those who will leave the boat for a number of months • Take notice during the day who is working in the boatyard near or around you. • Take notice during the day who is working in the boatyard • Be sure whenever you leave that the boat is securely locked, even if you are only • Be sure whenever you leave that the boat is securely SECURITY ON THE HARD they are easily acces- Boats being worked on ashore are natural targets because • Be sure to keep a list of all of your valuable gear, including manufacturer names • Be sure to keep a list of all of your valuable gear, including • In some marinas, if you are going to leave the boat for any period of time, it is for any period of time, it is • In some marinas, if you are going to leave the boat • Never bring anyone you don’t know well inside your boat unless you absolutely inside your boat unless anyone you don’t know well • Never bring In towns, don’t wear ‘real’ jewelry or carry all your credit cards in one place In towns, don’t wear ‘real’ jewelry or carry all your credit or for long-term storage, the risks are even greater. Yards claim to have security but or for long-term storage, the risks are even greater. Yards Get a sense of who they are and, if tradesmen, note the companies they work for, Get a sense of who they are and, if tradesmen, note work. Many yards require what car or truck they came in and what time they quit your boat after most have outside labor to sign in and out. It is always best to leave gone home; that way fewer people know your schedule. making a quick run to buy parts or get lunch. sible. Thieves know that at the end of the day you will be tired and go to take a sible. Thieves know that at the end of the day you may be anyone — a work- shower before going out to get something to eat. The thief the area and who has noticed man or a cruiser — who has been working on a boat in you and how you behave. and serial numbers. This is very important because if you have a loss and want to and serial numbers. This is very important because if If you have insurance you will report it, the authorities will ask you for such details. having been filed. not be able to process a claim without a police report a good idea to hire a responsible local person to watch your boat. Once you do that, your boat. Once you do that, a good idea to hire a responsible local person to watch boat as it is in conflict with it is very hard for another local person to target the everyone else and what he or the person watching it; most often everyone knows she is doing. must. If you must bring someone aboard who is not known, be sure everything worth who is not known, be sure bring someone aboard must. If you must them only what an unfamiliar worker, show away out of sight. If it is anything is put on and nothing more. needs to be worked — JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 fabric ofmyshirt.Thesound,almostunhearably loud,iscleanandclear.Theseare the airintowavesthatmakemychest throbandthatmyfingerscanfeelinthe of lightfromtheirheadsunderwhichIwrite mynotes. are two-leggedstickfiguresofpipe,each inadifferentstance,standingthepool Village bar,usedbyvendorsatothercultural events.Thelamppostsalongthepaths wooden stepsthatmakecomfortableseats. Theyaretwogingerbreadhousesandthe makes noattempttocompetewiththestage. Herealsoarethreesmallbuildingswith which islightedhereandthereinvarious changingcolors,asubtlelightshowthat zone ofrelativelylowvolumeisintheshadow oftheformerplantationgreathouse, speakers issignificantlyless,whereacoupleoflocalsarehavingsmoke.Another where thetreetopsopentoalargeviewofstarryskyandsound big between thefoodstandsleadingashortwaydownslopeawayfromlights to the groundslookingfor,asourdriversuggested,bestspots.Thereisapath the earlybirdsarewatching.ButmusicisloudandcleareverywheresoIwander from stacksoflargespeakersoneitherside.Fornowthatistheshowmost of music isloudandclearatthegate. handling admission,Iamgreetedbyfriends.TheDJisalreadyatworkand his ally regarditasavirtue.Allison,stunninginherRasta-colorsoutfit,andOlando are expats whoshouldknowbetter.Formypart,I’lljustsaythatIcan’thelpitandusu- among them.Wearethepunctual,mostlyforeigners,visitors,evenhabit-bound Regatta’s QueenShow(August),andParang(December).Wearenotthefirst, but including theCarriacouMaroon’sStringBandMusicFestival(April), see himperform. to theconcert?Thereisreverenceinhisreply.ThisBobMarley’sson.Yes,he will poor. HewasaprophetofRastawithmessageforall.OneLove.Willourdriver go to himandhispeople.ButhealsotellsusthatMarleyspokeeveryone,rich and Kayaks arepolitetovisitorssonothingmoreissaid—respect. While thatmightmakesensetovisitors,itwouldbenonsenseaWestIndian.But makes aclearandlogicalexcuseforusaboutfindinggoodseatsaheadofthecrowd. concert, butnotyet.Hewonderswhywevisitorsaregoingsoearly?Thedriver yet comeon. after myusualwakingtime.Ideclarelimittobemidnight,evenifthesonhasn’t with Ky-Manicomingonaboutmidnight.ThenDJmusic’tilwhenever,sometime zero hoursthirty...waypastmybedtime.Prettymuchontime,Iwastoldtoexpect, local musiciansuntil10:00,moreDJ11:00,thenKy-Manihalftwelve, concert “begins”ateight.I’veheardtheactualschedule:DJmusicfrom8:00to9:00, Carriacou for12years—arealreadyaboard.Thebusloadsat7:30eventhoughthe at atimearrangedbyothers,twoofwhom—couplewhohavebeenvisiting causes thatIsupport. Marley, asonoftheLegend,first,perhapsbiggest,forCarriacou,andbenefit rising aroundfirstlight,andavoidingcrowdsloudmusic.ButthisisKy-Mani Braving acloselookatthestage,Ipass within feetofspeakersthatarepounding The stageisaliveindancinglightsofmanycolorsandpatterns;musicbooming We arriveatHeritageVillage,thevenueforshowandotherlocalevents Our drivergrewupwithBobMarley’smusic,akidinpoorfamily.Marleyspoke More passengersboardalongtheway,onealocalwhowillalsobegoingto The paddleashorebeginsafterdark,eventhoughIamearly.Amini-busappears I amaddictedtomyretirementlifestyleofbeingaboardbysunset,earlybed, KY-MANI MARLEY CARRIACOU’S CONCERT by JimHutchinson Being asailor,Iusuallycarrysharpknife,butleftitathometonight—I’montheir watching thelightshow,listeningtomusic The audience,nowperhaps200strong,isscatteredbetweenthereandthestage, full ofhightechcontrolsandinstrumentation,whichIpresumethelights. stately trees.Centeredonthestagehalfwayupslopeisasmallcoveredpavilion amphitheater, aclearedslopeupthehillsidebackedbyforestofstraightand the stagepausingtoseewhatIcanofsetandlighting.Thenroam good speakersoperatingwithintheirintendedrange.Islowlywalkcloseinfrontof of theLegend. hop andrapwriteshisownsongs,but mostofhissongsforusweretheworks was nearlymyage.Ky-Mani’sconcert forthecurrentage.Ky-Manialsodoeship life washard.Ky-Manithesongrewup in aMiamighettowherelifeisharder.Bob played aroundthefire. tures. “RedemptionSong”isjustBoband acoupleofguitars,folkmusicthatcanbe “One Love”,themantrathatMarleyimprinted uponRasta,contagiousinothercul- of “GetUpStandUp”?Then“StirItUp”, itsexoticmusic(forbackthen)followedby live performance,audiencesingingalong. HowlongsinceI’dreallyheardthelyrics original BobMarley,fromhisownmouth,instyle.“NoWomanNoCry” is a ing toplaybass.Theycamefortheconcert.Martin’sassessment:“Reallyexcellent!” Barracuda. Bela,whomakesbeautifullyfundrawingsforsomeofmystories,islearn- up fromGrenada.Martin(saxophone)andyoungAdam(guitar)dogigswith haves wereboundbythebaneofmodernman,schedule. Grenadines endsseveraldaysafterEasterRegatta.Isuspectthatmanyofthewould- Tyrrel Baytofillwithyachtscomeforthebigevent.Notso.Highseasonin the ibly fastrapbyKJ,Ky-Mani’sson.Thesetendswith“OneLove”. more noise.Theencorebeginswith“ArmedandDangerous”includesanincred- Ky-Mani declaresattheendofsong,“Everywherewego!” though unabletohearmyownvoiceabovethespeakers.“Wesingiteverywhere!” the treesbehindthem. good vantagepointforthepartoflightshowthatisplayingonaudienceand close totherightspeakers,soundisseriouslyloudandmonaural.Thisalsoa the soundmanandhiscontrolswithasideviewoflightsaction.Beingso out oforoverthecrowd,whereIamalonebutclose,besidestagelooking in aidoflocalcharities brought themessagetotinyGrenadineisleofCarriacouforonemagicalnight One Love.Ky-ManiMarley,sonofthereggaelegendBob Behind thecrowdareseveralpolice,keepinganeyeonthings—thatistheirjob. Marley theLegendrosefromTrenchTown, aghettoofKingston,Jamaica,where I havesincere-listenedtomyCD,“Legend”(TuffGong,Hislabel),acompilation of Merlin The concertwasscheduledforshortlyafterBequiaEasterRegatta,soI’dexpected ••• The DJtakesoverthepartyasthosewhocameforshowbegintostreamout. Does theaudiencewantmore?Thecrowdmakesnoise.Really? The energyisastounding.Itendswith“RedemptionSong”,whichIsingalong, During theperformanceIdiscoveraviewingpointmuchbetterthantryingtosee , however, a magical little , home to the Brown family and pets, sailed , however,amagicallittlecutter,hometotheBrownfamilyandpets,sailed mance isamazing. sage hasalreadybegun,andtheenergyofperfor- Rasta talkandnopause,theshowisrolling,mes- of lengthandintensity.ThenKy-Manicomesonwith ing thatfollow. show andtheencore...butnotforhoursofDJparty- midnight, thecurfewIhaddeclared,staythrough audience isperhapsathousandandgrowing.Though ing untilKy-Maniandhisbandcomeon.Bynowthe Carriacou’s “DJSpecialist”,comesbacktokeepusmov- Free HouseMusic. He’s theonewhoputthistogether.CharlieKingsman, Super Star. up show,Kestor,Gold’n,MajorDickson,Shanda,and artistes eachtaketheirturnbackedbyXtrak,thewarm- that havebeenaddedtothelightshow.Thenlocal The DJsays,“RespecttoalltrueRastamaninside.” visitors tomoreenergeticforthegatheringlocalaudience. begin. Hismusichastransitionedfrommellowfortheearly ful anyway. side. Peaceofficers.Respect. Ky-Mani’s bandplaysarousingreggaefanfare,piece After thelocaltalentwarmsupaudience,DJ, “Big upCharlie!”ismixedintotheannouncements. Xtrak, thelocalband,comesonamidsmokyvapors At 9:30theDJannouncesthatshowisaboutto Compared tomostplacesIhearof,Carriacouispeace- JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 weather forprojectsonboard. make upforitandsetyouonacoursetoward clear ter someheadseas,enthusiasmandenergy will weeks. Eventhoughcommunicationsmay encoun- romantic problemsafterthat. ingenuity inthefirstthreeweeks.You’llsailfreeof get furtheroffcourse. communications. Don’tletimpatiencemakethings onboard willbecomplicatedbystaticinverbal this month. potential, willconsumemostofyourthoughts interfere withthesepositiveaspects. Don’t letanyroughseasinpersonalrelationships high enthusiasm,willpayoffinboatbusiness. until theseaspectspass. be besttojusttaketimeoffandsitonthehook the 14thandnewideaswillbebackwinded.Itmay devote yourtimetopleasure. things shipshapeonboardsoyouwillbefreeto sign. Thatgivesyouthepriorthreeweekstoget when Venus,thegoddessoflove,sailsintoyour romance untilthe23rd. after the14th. sails andrenewedenthusiasmforboatprojects areas ofyourlife.Youwillgetfairwindsin though communicationscouldgetgarbledinother your energylevelswillhitthedoldrumsafterthat. effect onyourcreativityinthelastweek. you can’tremainobjectiveitcouldhaveanegative could beaclashofegosforthefirstthreeweeks.If a while. with friendstogetyourmindoffcruisinglifefor age whileyougoashoreandentertainyourself Put anycommunicationproblemsindeepstow- You’ll becreativelyinspiredduringthefirst three Love willbetoughsailingandimpactyour Contrary currentsaffectinginnovativeprojects Your headwillbeintheclouds.Romance,orits Your imaginativeeffortsandverbalskills,plus Communications onboardwillbesluggishafter Your lovelifewillgetinterestingafterthe23rd Enjoy fresheningbreezesandfollowingseasin Keep onyourcurrentcreativeheadingeven Complete anyprojectsonboardbeforethe14th,as “So who’sthecaptainhere?”Shipboardlovelife Let romancesailitsowncoursethismonth. SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER JULY 2013 AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

parlumps marooned of aSimpleLife The Joys — Arnold Sherman

or requests. there isnoneedforimmortalpromises At peaceand and whilehealthlastsIam if one’sincome,nomatterhowsmall,exceedsexpenses As Dickenstaught I harmednoone Tomorrow maycome I livedtheday Finally sleepcomestotherockingofboat. “Adagio forStrings”andaquietdialoguewithSpinoza A glassofwineanddinnerwithfriends and whatnewquestionsabilitiestheyaretesting. then toobservewhatnewunderstandingthegrandkidshaveachieved to befollowedbytwohoursatthegymand It isthentimetositdownforthemorning’swriting to precedeafeelingofpeace. it isenoughforthegrowingsmileonmyface While thebirdssoarinanoutofmyvision and thealways-changingconfigurationofclouds I lookupattheblueofsky feel thewindthatblowstreesbrushmyfaceaswell which Icarryuponthedeckand the smelloffreshlygroundandbrewedcoffee while thecabinofboatfillswith feel thejoltoffresh-squeezedorangejuice when Iriseuponanewday No matterwhat

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JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 by Edith Widder — See answers on page 44 The Bioluminescence Coloring Book ACROSS ACROSS 6 type of animal that uses counter-illumination as a form of camouflage 8 allows animals to blend with their surroundings 9 cold light 10 animal that reminds one of candles 11 single celled plankton that glows when disturbed DOWN 1 the name of phenomenon which causes the sea to glow 2 phenomenon of light emission by living organisms 3 nickname for dragonfish 4 traditional lightbulbs create this 5 type of fish that use luminous lures to attract prey 6 to bait • CAMOUFLAGE: In the darker parts of the ocean, it’s hard to see anything below the ocean, it’s hard to see In the darker parts of • CAMOUFLAGE: shark has one unlit patch on its underside, which • MIMICRY: The cookie-cutter some animals release a cloud of biolumines- • SELF-DEFENSE: When threatened, Biologists think that some species of sharks and • OFFENSIVE ADAPTATIONS: is not as rare as you might think. In fact, most types In the ocean, bioluminescence Chemical Reactions! What’s Going On? is associated with heat. The light we know best — incandescent light — chemicals. Many more get Some creatures manufacture their own light-making by a bioluminescent organ- So what creates bioluminescence? The light emitted world’s oceans. At certain Eighty percent of all bioluminescent groups inhabit the To learn more, check out attract prey. The anglerfish has a long protuberance on the top of its . On the on the top of anglerfish has a long protuberance attract prey. The fish, curi- anglerfish can light up. Smaller is a ball that the end of the protuberance snaps them up look. The anglerfish simply light, swim in for a closer ous about the in its huge jaws. silhouette of what’s above you. For this reason, some you, but it’s easy to see the spots of light on their undersides, which blur their out- species, like squid, produce as in with the light from above. This is also known lines and allow them to blend counter-illumination. viewed from below. When a large predator approach- resembles a smaller fish when bite and then flee. This allows the cookie-cutter shark es, the shark can take a large much larger and more powerful than it is. to prey on animals that are squid defend themselves with a cloud of ink. Others cent fluid, similar to the way predators. use a bright flash to blind not may use bioluminescence even though they are whales, such as sperm whales, A sperm whale may seek out a habitat with large com- bioluminescent themselves. the plankton, which the sperm whale does not eat. As munities of bioluminescent the approach the plankton, however, the glowing alerts planktons’ predators (squid) squid. whale. The whale eats the to sharks, include some bioluminescent members. of animals, from bacteria 90 percent of the animals living in the open waters Scientists estimate that about above the sea floor are bioluminescent. means when bioluminescence Bioluminescence, on the other hand, is cold light. This all the energy used in a bio- is produced, the process creates very little heat. Nearly contrast, only three percent luminescent chemical reaction is converted to light. In light. The rest, 97 percent, is of the energy used by a light bulb is converted to wasted as heat. their light by forming their chemicals from the organisms they eat. A few “borrow” rather than luminesce; they partnerships with glowing bacteria. And others fluoresce absorb one color of light and emit another. reactions occurring inside (or ism is produced by energy released from chemical chemical reactions take place ejected by) the organism. In the animal world, these components are needed for a in special luminescent cells called photocytes. Three (a molecular substrate) and bioluminescent chemical reaction: , luciferin acts upon luciferin to luciferase (an enzyme). In the presence of oxygen, luciferase organs, in which the inten- produce light. These are aggregated into complex light light can be modulated sity of light is regulated by nerve impulses, and in which means, organisms can adjust with the help of reflectors, lenses and filters. By these to need. Different organ- the wavelength, and intensity of light according but the chemical reac- isms produce different versions of luciferin and luciferase, these processes remain tion remains the same. But the exact mechanisms behind shrouded in mystery. are quite different. There are depths, nearly all the organisms glow. On land, things birds, reptiles, amphibi- bioluminescent fungi and insects, but no flowering plants, light. ans, or mammals that glow. Bioluminescence is a cool dark paint kit. a marine science workbook, complete with glow-in-the It’s available at Amazon.com. SALTY’S BEAT BY NATHALIE WARD BEAT BY NATHALIE SALTY’S Bioluminescence: Bioluminescence: THE WEIRD, WEIRD, THE COOL LIGHT WONDERFUL WONDERFUL LANGUAGE OF LANGUAGE • ATTRACTING PREY: Some species, like the anglerfish, use luminous lures to • LOCATING FOOD: In the twilight depths of the ocean, some fish species use their What Are the Main Uses for Bioluminescence? • COMMUNICATION: Fireflies, also known as candleflies, flash at one another in a The “burglar-alarm theory” is a possible explanation for how this response to distur- Some species of single-celled plankton called dinoflagellates glow when disturbed. Who Glows There? Why Animals Make Light Bioluminescence is used by living things to lure unsuspecting prey, defend against Bioluminescent life forms have an entirely different approach — they make their Bioluminescent life forms have an entirely different approach In the deep-sea world where sunlight cannot penetrate, many organisms have sunlight cannot penetrate, many organisms have In the deep-sea world where Have you ever wondered what makes a firefly glow? Or how strange sea creatures makes a firefly glow? Or how strange sea creatures Have you ever wondered what This is a dragonfish, also known as loosejaws. By emitting red light, loosejaws can see their prey but their prey can’t see them — most fish can only see blue light light like a spotlight to find prey. Dragonfish, also called loosejaws, have adapted to emit red light; most fish can only see blue light, so the loosejaws have an enormous advantage when they light up a surrounding area. They can see their prey, but their prey can’t see them. species-specific pattern, often in order to find a mate. Adult fireflies light up to attract mates. Most flashing fireflies are male. bance helps the plankton survive. If a small fish begins to feed on the plankton, the disturbed plankton emit a flash of light. The light attracts larger fish, which are likely to be the smaller fish’s predators. In other words, the flash of light is an alarm that warns nearby big animals of the presence of little animals. However, this system doesn’t seem to be as foolproof as some of the better-understood uses for bioluminescence. Tides, storms, swimming marine life and passing ships can cause large numbers of these plankton to produce light simultaneously. Dinoflagellates are responsible for the phenomenon known as the milky sea, which causes the ocean to glow. Milky seas can be seen from space in tropical waters and, in some cases, this glow is so bright that it interferes with marine navigation. predators, attract a mate, and execute other vital activities. Organisms that use bioluminescence rely on the reactions of other organisms to a glowing object. In general, light in dark places attracts other creatures. Flashes of light repel them. Most marine organisms use blue bioluminescence because it travels much farther than red under water. As a result, most marine organisms have photoreceptors that are only sensitive to blue light. own light and carry it around in their bodies. Glowing animals typically create light through luminescence. In luminescent animals, chemical compounds mix together to produce a glow. Luminescence is far more efficient than incandescence. It neither requires nor generates much heat, so it’s sometimes known as cold light. adapted to create their own light, usually a glowing blue or green that can be seen light, usually a glowing blue or green that can be seen adapted to create their own of light emission by living organisms, biolumi- easily underwater. The phenomenon especially in marine species. Many animals use the light nescence, is quite common, people use flashlights or searchlights. Traditional light they produce the same way hot incandescence. A filament inside the bulb gets very bulbs create light through since generating enough heat and emits light. This process isn’t particularly efficient, to create light wastes an enormous amount of energy. light up the deepest depths of the ocean? light up the deepest depths JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 They swam together for a while, not too close. It must They swamtogetherforawhile,nottooclose.Itmust up tothemotherlikeitwasdrinkingmother’smilk. was about15metreslong.Astridsawthebabynuzzling past. Therewasamotherandfathercalf.The making newhomes. wreck butfisharealreadyswimminginitandIhope will takesometimeforareeftostartgrowingonthe out beforetheboatfilledupwithwater. the waterandpersonwhoopenedthemhadtoget it byopeningtheseacocks.Theopenseacocksletin Then theytowedtheboatouttodivesiteandsank the holeswereabovewaterlinesoitstillfloated. mud piesandsoupinvitedgrownupsovertoeat. From piecesofwoodwemadeatable.Then for playingwith.Wepickedoutplatesandcutlery. My brotherandItookalotofthingsthatwereuseful waspiledunderneaththeboatuntilitempty. the fishandnottopollutesea.Ahugeamountof thing hadtobetakenoutoftheboatmakeroomfor good homeforfishandotherseaanimals.Firstevery- thought itcouldbesunkandthewreckwouldmakea There wasalsoarustyredboatfullofholes.Astrid her lifeforbabies. cannot gooutandhunt.It’ssadisn’tit?Shesacrifices all timestoprotectthemandtheycan’tmovesoshe when hereggshatch.Shehastostaywiththeat into smallspacestohide.Thefemaleoctopusdies tors. Anoctopushasnobones,soitcansqueezeitself change colourandshapetoprotectitselffrompreda- because theyareveryintelligent.Theoctopuscan Her favouriteanimalsaretheoctopusandshark teaches divinginSt.Martinwherethewaterishotter! really mutilatedandshe’slostalotofweight. Mama canhardlyeatnowbecauseofherjaw.It’s in herjaw;shehadsomehowpulledthehookout.Big it. ThelasttimeAstridsawher,BigMamahadabigcut her jawwithaboutametreoffishinglinehangingfrom she gotcaughtbyafishingline.Thehookwasstuckin She iscalledBigMamabecauseshesobig!Sadly, Mama, wholivesinthedeepseasaroundSt.Martin. Leopard SharksandMako.HerfavouritesharkisBig Sharks, Tuppich,WhiteandBlackTip,Nurse hardly feelsit.That’swhyshesaystheyaregentle! when thesharkstakefoodfromstickshe fish tails.It’slikeatreatforthesharks.Astridsaid, food becausetheystillhavetohunt.Shegavethem food withandholditout.Astriddidn’tgivethemmuch wore chainmailandshehadalongsticktopickupthe love themlikeAstrid. less frightenedthemoreIsawthemandwouldgrowto bit frightenedtoseeasharkinreallifebutIwouldget Astrid lovesdivingandshesharks.Iwouldbea Astrid says,andshehasbeendivingfor17years. Electric: 110V30Amp Astrid’s favourite dive was when a whale family swam Astrid’s favouritedivewaswhenawhalefamilyswam The boathasbeenontheseabedforamonthnow.It When theboatwasemptyitputinwater.All Astrid livesonherboatinthesameboatyardasme. Astrid learnttodiveinalakeGermany.Nowshe Astrid hasseenlotsofsharks.SheReef Once, Astriddidaspecialdivetofeedthesharks.She “Sharks arereallygentle!”That’swhatmyfriend BEQUIA MARINA Water &Dockageavailable-new Servicescomingsoon! Open 7days8:00am-6:00pmorlater! Bequia Marina,PortElizabeth, Bequia Look forthe St. Vincent&theGrenadines • 240V50Amp VHF 68 Big BlueBuilding • 3 Phase100Amp,50Hz and haveajoblikehers’ Eight-year-old authorGracesays,‘IwishIcoulddive Astrid, divingwithasharkinSt.Maarten. Loves Sharks! CRUISING KIDS’CORNER My Friend Astrid by GraceCheasley B &CFUELSENTERPRISE Easily approachedfromCarriacou, UnionI.,PalmI.&PSV Tel/Fax: (473)443-9110email: [email protected] FUEL •OILWATERICE Contact: GlennClementorReynold Belmar The bestfueldockintheGrenadinesfor: Cheapest pricesintheGrenadines Unobstructed dockincalmwater Suitable forLargePowerYachts 16-18 feetofwateralongside Petite Martinique pus hidinginacubbyholeoftheboat! colourful reefgrowingonit.And,Ihopetoseeanocto- the timeI’mtenIhopetherewillbeabeautifuland can takemediving!Iamexcitedtoseethewreck.By dive. OnmytenthbirthdayIhopeAstridisheresoshe have ajoblikehers.Youtobetenyearsold and snappingwhiletheyeat. crabs atnightandyoucanseetheirclawssnipping different seaanimalsyoucansee.Astridseesmore get usedtoit,it’sarealadventure.Atnightthereare frightening whenyoufeelthemgoingpastyou.As they comeswimmingtowardsyouanditcanbereally dive becauseinthedarkyoucan’tseefishwhen we couldsinktothebottomofsea. might playtooroughlyandputaholeinthehull play withourboat, sleeping. Iwasnervousincasethewhaledecidedto watch andcalledmemymumup.Mybrotherwas Atlantic. Itwasaboutfivemetreslong.Mydadon I wouldhavetakenaphotooflifetimeifcould. have beenamazing.Iwishcouldseea15-metrewhale! I thinkAstridisverylucky.wishcoulddiveand Astrid’s scariestdivewaswhenshedidherfirstnight I sawawhalewhenweweresailingacrossthe Oumâ . Awhaleisverystrongand JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33

FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3 Figure 2: Mars and Jupiter rise together on the 22nd Figure 3: Scorpio and the Milky Way, looking south on July 12th Figure 1: Crescent moon and Venus just after sunset on the 10th Figure 1: Crescent moon and The Why , Burford Books, ©2007. THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY! SKY: FREE THE CARIBBEAN To Contemplate While Having a The Caribbean from space... Looking Scott Welty is the author of sunsets! Glass of Wine on Deck for some interesting pictures of our beloved Caribbean from space, I stum- bled upon this one (Figure 4), taken from the space station as the shuttle passed underneath! But over WHAT island? The headline just refers to “crystal clear Caribbean”. Let the dis- cussion ensue! Book of Sailing

FIGURE 4 by Scott Welty by Scott

Finally, the tail of the scorpion is a star called Shaula, from the Arabic word forFinally, the tail of the scorpion is a star called Shaula, Because you are looking into the busiest and densest part of the galaxy, there are aBecause you are looking into the busiest and densest part The brightest star in Scorpio is Antares, a red giant. Red giants occur when a star The brightest star in Scorpio is Antares, a red giant. Red Full Moon. 22nd - Mars and Jupiter rise together (Figure 2). Full before sunrise. 30th - Jupiter, Mars and Mercury visible in east just Summertime is Scorpio Time of your boat, looking south What a beautiful sight (Figure 3) — sitting on the deck Venus and Regulus set together. SATURN - Rising in the afternoon and setting in the wee hours, riding in Virgo. SATURN - Rising in the afternoon Sky Events This Month 8th - New Moon. Venus set together (Figure 1). 10th - Crescent moon and ride together in Virgo. That’s Saturn just off to the 16th - Saturn and the moon EARTH - Still thinks the whole world revolves around her. EARTH - Still thinks the whole month, rising sometime after 0500 hours in Taurus. MARS - A morning star all star rising just after Mars until the 22nd. Then JUPITER - Another morning VENUS - Appearing ever higher in the western sky at sunset during the month in in the western sky at sunset during the month VENUS - Appearing ever higher The Planets in July 2013 catch it just after sunset in the west, early in the MERCURY - Maybe you can “tail”. Surprise! Interesting in that it is a rare triple star system. About half the stars“tail”. Surprise! Interesting in that it is a rare triple star another. Shaula is a triple,you see are actually double stars — one star orbiting yet another star. (Sorry,though, with a star orbiting a star and them together orbiting planets there, imagine theSteiners won’t resolve the individual stars.) If there are number of star clusters and nebulae that are probably visible with your Steiners. Try it! number of star clusters and nebulae that are probably visible runs out of hydrogen fuel and begins to burn helium and even lithium. These reac- runs out of hydrogen fuel and begins to burn helium more in the red region of the tions burn hotter and cause the star to inflate and glow at which point the bound- spectrum. Our Sun will do the same in a few billion years, that will finally convince some aries of the Sun will be beyond the orbit of Mars. Yes, (but probably not all) of global warming! on a clear night and easily picking out the giant constellation of Scorpio against the on a clear night and easily picking out the giant constellation constellations that look some- backdrop of the Milky Way. Scorpio is one of the few way. First of all, when you what like its name! And, there’s a lot to see looking that center of our Milky Way gal- look toward Scorpio, you’re looking roughly toward the as we now know there is a axy. There’s some spectacular business going on, too, star we can calculate giant black hole living there. From the motion of a “nearby” four MILLION solar masses. that the black hole at the center has a mass of about point. A black hole is the col- That’s four million suns packed into a mathematical to counteract it. A sin- lapse of all this mass, owing to its own gravity with no seems now that most galaxies gularity, as they’re called, means infinite density. It typically have a super-massive black hole at their center. northwest of the moon. Jupiter rises before Mars. In any case, Jupiter is the bright one! Jupiter rises before Mars. In Cancer and then moving up into Leo. Cancer and then moving up month. Mercury then pops up before sunrise in the east, late in the month. month. Mercury then pops July 2013 July The Sky in in Sky The JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 Brian’s show,frompageoneto296. Jim, PonyMon,andEasyalwayshoveringaroundinthestory,butit’sallCaptain memorable nameslikeDiverVaughn,JasontheArgonaut,PirateDan,Mechanic and Boonromance. story betweenthenarrator,CaptainBrian,andenchantressreadslikeaMills about aseacaptain. what remainsessentiallyasea-basedadventuretale,orratherantale only withinvestigatingLeif’smurder,butalsoofbeinginvestigatedbythecopsin the captainreplies,“Islandtrader.”So,islandtraderhashishandsfull,not Getting Together The IslandTrader Locks certainly knows his characters. Born in St. Paul, Minnesota, Locks lived on St. Locks certainlyknowshischaracters.BorninSt.Paul,Minnesota,livedon Charles Locksdevelopssubplotsandanislandcontinentalcast,somewith Starting offslowly,thebookeventuallygainsaniceandeasypace,eveniflove Aruba, thenlefttheboatthereandbackpackedthrough through theGreaterandLesserAntilles,sailedoverto the way.WesaileddownCaribbeanislandchain dren) sailedawayonafour-and-a-half-yearadventure. sions, myfamilyandI(husbandtwoyoungchil- quitting ourjobsandgivingawaymostofposses- life thathadmoremeaning.Aftersellingourhouse, 2007 wewereinsearchofabetterlifeforourfamily, the Caribbean,readthisbook. of school,throwthemonasailboatandstartwandering good ideatogiveupyourcareer,yankchildrenout 2013 AlegriaPress.382pages,colorphotos. A th th d s q li 2 th o g 2 “We weren’texperiencedsailors,butwelearnedalong The author,CarlaGrayBeDell,says,“InJanuary If you’veeverwonderedwhetherornotitwouldbea A LifeWithoutBorders B S C fr A s y g to b — o to J th e 1 L Brian, “Whichareyou—sailororpirate?”towhich St. Judas.Atonepoint,TheShirtasksCaptain Captain Briantorevealwhatheknowsofcocaineon from themainlandcalledTheShirtharassing Antilles” withlocalcop,OfficerRichards,andone shrug yourshoulderwhenhiscorpseturnedup….” your shoulders,butyoucouldn’tjustlaughand getting overtheinitialanger—tolaughandshrug touch youfortoomuch,wereinclined—after but hewasalsoalikeableguy.Aslongasdidn’t — whonudgeshimtoinvestigate.“Leifwasathief, of themurderafriend,LeifThief,fromBillie to Venezuelawhereeverythinggoeswrong,helearns Judas onhisboat, the restofhislifewithher.AfterreturningtoSt. er woman,theenchantressBillie,butcan’timagine 13: 978-0-9765201-3-9.ISBN10:0-9765201-3-3. Locks. ScarlettaPress©2006Edition.296pages.ISBN And thereiseven“GreaterTroubleintheLesser Captain BrianClancyhashiseyeonamuchyoung- Greater TroubleintheLesserAntilles Island Trader, , byCarlaGrayBeDell.© BOOK REVIEWBYBLOSSOMBROWN BOOK REVIEWBYJ.WYNNER fromabusinesstrip

, byCharles stronger whenwearetogether.” 24/7 formorethanfouryears,Carlasays,“Welearnedthatwewillalwaysbe organizing everyone’ssafetyharnessesbeforeroughpassages.Afterbeingtogether explorer. Herslightlyolderbrother,Tristan,competentlytakesoverthetaskof “We neverhaveanyfun”asthestorybegins,provestobeanintrepidandhappy meaningful responsibilitiestothegroup.Tessa,asix-year-oldwhocomplainsthat ing teaminwhicheachmemberknowstheycancountontheothersandhas work there,thekidsgotoschoolsomewhereelse—intoatightsailing-and-travel- cally fragmentedmodernsuburbanfamily—Dadgoestoworkhere,Mom well-written andoftenhumorousaccountisthatthefamilycoalescedfromatypi- Fun?” tooneentitled“WhatMattersMost”.Thehearteningtake-awayfromthis from thebeginningincruisingcommunity.” stories ofthekindnessstrangersandincrediblesensecommunitywefelt Borders kindness weexperiencedineverycountryvisited.Mystory, know aboutthegenerouspeoplewemetincruisingcommunityandalso RV acrosstheUS. In between,whilewaitingouthurricaneseason,weeventookatrainandthenan Peru andChile.ThenextyearwemadeourwaythroughEcuadorColombia. and keeps readers smiling all the time. and keepsreaderssmilingallthetime. and delightfulprose.Locks’wittywayofturningasentencegivespleasurablereading ‘Paradise’: “IhavebeentoparadiseandIme.” a storm.Attheconclusionofstory,hecancertainlyparaphraselyricsto out andquittingtheisland.CaptainBriantestshisnewpurchasebysailingitinto tom withabang. cops, whichculminateinaroyalbattleatsea a wholekilo…IthadtobetheShirt’sdoing.Heapparentlylikedplaygames. found whatIwaslookingforinalockerthegalley—clearplasticbagthatcontained where tolook.Assholes!...” finding iteasier.Iftheybringaboard,knowit’sthere,andexactly larly forfiveyearslookingcocaine.Isuspectthey’vedecidedtomakethejobof towards themouthofbay.“That’sprobablythem.They’vesearchedmyboatregu- the streetandaskthemiftheydidit. had alreadyconcludedtheirprobe.Theirideaofaninvestigationwastostoppeopleon on theCaptain’scase. relevant documentation,muchtothechagrinofOfficerRichardswhoisoncemore children ofthearea.Hehiresacontractorandplaygroundgetsgoingwithout his promisetoValerie,deceasedfriend,buildaplaygroundinhermemoryfor a fewprojectsthatdonotsitwellwiththelaw.HighonCaptainBrian’sagendais and metmostofthecolourfulcharacterswhoinspiredthosepeoplethisbook. John intheUSVirginIslandsfor15years.ThereheownedandoperatedLucy’sRestaurant Available inprintandasane-bookatAmazon.com. Carla’s taleevolvesfromachaptercalled“WhoSaidThisWasSupposedtobe “My planwhenwereturnedtotheUS,waswriteabook.Iwantedletpeople Available atAmazon.com. Theauthorlockshisaudienceontheleisurely,desertislandofSt.Judaswithvivid But althoughhisboatislost,hesoonacquiresanotherfromafriendwhoselling And so the games continue between the captain and officialdom and the crooked And sothegamescontinuebetweencaptainandofficialdomcrooked Making mattersworse,TheShirtisseeingthecaptain’sformergirlfriend,Sarah. When Ireachedmyboatnobodywasaboard.firstsearchedtheobviousplacesand “Thanks, butwe’retoolate.”Ipointedtoarunaboutoffinthedistance,heading The Shirtshrugged...“Wanthelp?”heasked… “Who’s onmyboat?” When Ilookedup,sawassholesillegallyboarding “Let’s talkaboutthecocaine,”TheShirtsaid,takinghischair.“Specifically,whereitis...” But thecopsquestioningofcaptainneverstops. Then, thereistheCaptainreluctantlyagreeingtolookintoLeif’smurder.Thepolice Combined withallthathehastodealwith,themaverickCaptainBriantakeson Street’s GuidesareavailableatIslandWater WorldandJohnsonMarineHardware ontracking&securingforastorm HURRICANE TIPS! Do thesameandyouwillhavequietanchorages. the anchoragesthatare Real sailorsintheWindwards,Leewardsand VirginIslandscircleinStreet’sGuide Thirty-two yearshavegonebyandhehasneverhadtobuydrinks. covered intheguidehewouldbuydrinks. draws sevenfeetthathehasnot anchorage safeforaboatthat anyone couldcomeupwithan In 1980Streetsaidinprintthatif in theEasternCaribbean. that describe Street’s Guidesaretheonlyones dotes ofpeople,placesandhistory. directions, plusinterestinganec- for inter-islandandharborpiloting Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuides “Sailing DirectionstotheWestIndies”,publishedin1867. in St.Lucia,SullyMagrasBarts,and BlueWaterBooks&Charts , isnotaboutthetechniquesofsailing,butstoriespeopleandplaces, in FortLauderdale,[email protected] GOOD GUIDESARETIMELESS Until DonStreetwrotehisfirstguidein1964, ALL the guideheusedwasNorieandWilson’s theanchorages Visitwww.street-iolaire.comforawealthofinformation NOT describedintheotherpopularguides. Island Trader Island Trader A LifeWithout . goestothebot-

JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 I would like to thank Last but not least, I Nathalie will replace all the suppliers and crewmembers that I have been working with hand-in-hand for these four years. I would like to thank my current and former colleagues Céline, Stéphanie, Martial, Nathalie, Gwladys and Gino. would like to thank Douglas — my boss and mentor!! Zar-Par volumes 3 Marina FREE www.marinazarpar.com , a book filled with true Caribbean sailing yarns and “life , a book filled with true Caribbean

Boca Chica, Dominican Republic Boca Chica,

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CRUISING GUIDES www.freecruisingguide.com Continued from page 8 Continued from Lesser Antilles in Puerto Rico ABC Islands Trinidad Jamaica Haiti Cayman Islands Dominican Republic Tales of an Island Spirit Captain Mark’s Way Douglas Yacht Services Nadège says ‘Au Revioir’ to four years of a rich and exciting working experience at Nadège Ifebe writes: After Best wishes to all! Salt, a new crew bar and grill at the marina, has recently opened. Marina guests has recently opened. Marina bar and grill at the marina, Salt, a new crew visit www.bluehaventci.com. For more information Bequia Boat Repairs in a.k.a. in Germany, Brenton George, working in the boat business After 10 years with the first 30 pages free at www.smashwords.com/ Available at Amazon.com,

Left to right: Céline, Stéphanie, Douglas and Nadège Douglas Yacht Services in Martinique, I decided to leave my job on May 31st, to Douglas Yacht Services in Martinique, continue my path in life on a new continent! with her this summer and me as executive assistant; you will get to start working next season. have access to a wide selection of resort amenities including a 34-condominium amenities including a 34-condominium a wide selection of resort have access to third largest and gym. Surrounded by the infinity pool, private beach hotel with an some of the watersports enthusiasts the world, Turks & Caicos offers barrier reef in fishing grounds in the region. best diving and time to come home and venture out on his own. “Munk Man”, decided it was opened in Bequia in March, Munk Man has already Although his new business just of the Grenadines. His business offers a range worked in boating repairs throughout bit and dinghy repairs, and fiberglassing. So, having a services such as boat, engine dinghy? Stop in at Munk Man’s Repairs at the Bequia of hiccups on your boat or Man at (784) 530-4667 or his associate, Dinghy, at Marina in O’Car or phone Munk (784) 497-1831. is now available as an eBook. Author Mark changing one-page philosophies”, this recollection of the crazy life and times of over 33 Denebeim says, “Check out a — as only I can recall and lie about. You might find years of Caribbean madness there!” story, or photo, about you in books/view/320962. — JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 [email protected] www.marigotbeachclub.com are accepted. for restaurants, hotels, villasorsimply toenjoy athome Provisioning for yachtcharters, largeorsmallorders multi grainbreads, croissants, etc. lamb, steaks, frozen bread suchasbaguettes, petitpain, Seafood, shrimp, prawns, smoked &fresh salmon, fish, exotic meats, salami, turkey, prosciutto, juices, etc. We cheese, offer anexcellentselectionofimported CALLIAQUA, ST. VINCENT Tel: 456-2983orFax: 456-2987 [email protected] WE ARE SITUATED IN Ocar, Downstairs Coco’s ALSO INBEQUIA or you cancallusat Tel: 458-3485

senger, andofcourse,to the PricklyBayMarinastaffandrestaurant staffwhohelpedcomfortthefemalepas- Guard vessel,theCalivignyIslandtugcaptain andcrew,allthecruiserswhohelped, nearly seeingeverythinglosttothesea. exhausted captainandfemalepassenger couldrelaxandstarttorecoverfrom divers checkedherundersides,andonly thenwasthe“allclear”givenand WWII landingcraft), outboard. TheCoastGuardarrivedandorganizedashallow-drafttug(actually a on thereefwascomingtoanend. and femalepassengerwerethrilledtoseesomebodythattheirlongscarynight Marina dock! fied tofindhisboatgone,thensohappyhersafelytiedupthePricklyBay and went“walk-about”,floatingouttosea—theowner,uponhisreturn,washorri- towards thereefwithenginefailure.Italsorescuedaboatthatdraggedheranchor ciated tooffsetfuelandotherrunningcosts. Rescue 1 usually turnouttobelocalfishermen,butDarrensays,“Rathersafethansorry!” out afterhoursinresponsetoreportsof“suspiciousactivity”thebay—which left theyacht’sgenoainshredssoownerturnedbackforGrenada.At10:33 the ownerandafemalepassengeronboard.Thatafternoonsquallof45-oddknots Headquarters on(473)440-3999. hours on(473)418-8151.TheGrenada CoastGuardcanbecontactedviaPolice with lots ofblaringallthevessels’hornsinappreciationteameffort! sideways intodeepwaterandfinallytosafety,withonlyminimaldamage.There was rocks, oneforeandaft,pinningherinsotheCalivignyIslandtugpulled her The with sometuggingandpullingby onto thereef,ropesweretiedhermastforleverageand,whentidecame up, arrived tohelp.Anchorswerelaidpreventthegroundedboatfrommovingfarther equipment andextracrew,returning25minuteslaterfoundthatcruisers had and removedthefemalepassengertosafety. put aCoastGuardcrewmemberaboardtheyachttoassistexhaustedcaptain, Bay andHogIsland. boat ranagroundinanuprightpositionontheedgeofreefbetweenMt.Hartman urgent assistanceas,whenenteringMt.HartmanBay,hisenginehadfailedandthe Rescue 1 To theRescue! Rescue1— Prickly Bay’s Channel 68toallnearbycruisersforhelpinthedark. if thesituationdeteriorated,theycouldphoneCoastGuardagainorcallout on was nowlistingbadlyso the CoastGuardvessel’sVHFradiowasnotworkingonChannel16. stranded vesselbutcouldnotmakecontactwithit.Upontesting,itwasfoundthat to thestrandedvessel.CoastGuardthenreported a vesseldragginganchoraroundthebaythatneedsassistance. but fromSt.George’stoLePhareBleuinthedaytime.Everyweekthereseemsbe Grenada CoastGuard. Prickly BayMarina,offersitsservicesasasupplementtothoseprovidedbythe Grenada, hasbeenbusy! midnight shiftchange. rough forhimtonavigateinthedark,sohewentCoastGuardbasebefore at thistime.Darrenthenleftimmediatelywith vessel, astheyacht’scaptainfeltthathisvesselcouldpossiblybepulledoffreef Full thanksforgreatteamworkgotothe morning-shiftcrewontheGrenadaCoast Rescue 1 On June3rd,a57-footmonohullsetsailfromPricklyBayforTrinidadwithonly Rescue 1 The yacht’scaptainfixedtheengineglitchandmotoredbacktoPricklyBayMarina While waitingforthetide, At 5:45 The captainofthestrandedvesselthenphoned The bigorange-cladinflatableoperatedbyDarrenTurner,ManagingDirectorof Since itslaunchingatthebeginningofMay2013, At 2:10 Rescue 1 Rescue 1 AM AM receivedaphonecallfromtheelderlycaptainofthisvesselaskingfor provides afreeservicebutdonationsforservicesprovidedaremuchappre- atPricklyBayMarinacanbecontactedon VHFChannel16orphonedafter aCoastGuardvesselleftforMt.Hartmanbutturnedbackbeforegetting , firstlight, has rescueda50-footmonohullsailboatjustoutsidethebay,drifting diver checkedtheyacht’sundersidesandsawthereweretwolarge at theyacht’sside(justincaseofenginefailureagain!).Commercial Pine Grove Rescue 1 Rescue 1 Rescue 1is Rescue 1 Rescue 1 Rescue 1 phoned theGrenadaCoastGuardrequestingarescue by DeniseSimpson , tocomefromCalivignyIsland.TheCoastGuardalso left PricklyBayforthestrandedvessel.Thecaptain Rescue 1 Pine Grove . maintained hourlyradiocontactwithhimsothat only operationalinthePricklyBayareaatnight returned toPricklyBayMarinaforfuel,extra helped recovertheirdamageddinghyand , drivenbyMr.Colins,shecameloose. Rescue 1, Rescue 1 Rescue 1, Rescue 1 however theseawasfartoo to reportthathisvessel based inPricklyBay, Rescue 1 that theysawthe also goes PM , JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 : The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 Compass …and much more! 473-440-7260 OR 473-409-7260 473-440-7260 OR Message in a Bottle EMAIL US - [email protected] BLUEBEARD ENTERPRISES BLUEBEARD Read in Next The Day We (Almost) Sank $BMM6To8F%FMJWFSt3FHJPOBM%JTUSJCVUJPOt(SFOBEB Scooting Around Marie Galante Month’s Stock Up on the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Hubbard’s JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. The New Caribbean CHERRY 1 Cup milk 3 Tablespoons butter 3 teaspoons active dry yeast 1/4 Cup firmly packed brown sugar 1/4 Cup fresh lemon juice 1/4 Cup fresh cherry juice 1 teaspoon salt 4 Cups baker’s flour, divided 1 Cup West Indian cherry pulp 1 Cup toasted coconut, divided 1 teaspoon grated lemon peel 1 Tablespoon minced fresh ginger Combine milk and butter in a small pan and heat Add remaining two Cups of flour and mix until the Knead dough until it is elastic and let sit in a warm For the Caribbean Home Gardener This is an excellent backyard tree because, with The West Indian cherry is grown from seed, cut- It can adapt to most environments found in tropical Shirley Hall is the author of West Indian Cherry Sorbet cherry pulp. Add two Make two Cups of seeded Exquisite Cherry Ginger Bread just until butter melts. Remove from heat, pour into a just until butter melts. Remove from heat, pour into a large bowl and stir in yeast. Let sit for five minutes before adding brown sugar, lemon and cherry juices, salt, and two Cups of the flour. Combine thoroughly, electric mixer preferred. dough doesn’t stick to the bowl. (Add water by Tablespoons if too dry.) Blend in cherry pulp, a quarter Cup of the coconut, grated lemon peel, and ginger. place until it doubles in size — usually about an hour. Punch it down and place in a greased baking pan and let it sit for another hour. Rub remaining coconut into the top. Bake at 350°F for an hour or until a toothpick or knife pulls out clean. proper fertilizing and watering, a West Indian cherry tree can bear as soon as its third year. At five or six years old, it will fruit three times a year, and can bear fruit for 20 years. tings, or grafts. Just look around the base of another cherry tree and you may find a sprout. It is an attrac- tive tree with dark green leaves and or white blossoms. It will grow to about 15 feet and can be shaped by pruning. Keep the tree to a height that can be easily picked, otherwise the birds and bats will get most of the cherries. regions and is able to withstand even a severe drought. Its shallow root system can be uprooted by strong winds. It is self-pollinating and loves the sun. For the tree to produce abundant fruit, regular watering is necessary with adequate drainage. This tree can also be grown in sizable pots where it will get sun. The pots should have good drain holes and the potting soil kept slightly alkaline. Home Garden Handbook. Tablespoons of sugar and one teaspoon of lime juice, Tablespoons of sugar and cubes. Freeze until slushy, and blend with a tray of ice Cup of milk may be added; blend again and refreeze. A ice should be reduced by in that case the amount of half. than the is generally more Strain seeded West This juice blends Indian cherries until you have two Cups of juice. Mix with an equal amount of water. It is slightly acidic, so add sugar to taste. Pour over ice and enjoy. well with another favorite juice, such as orange or pineap- ple. Or add a banana SERVING AT SEA BY SHIRLEY HALL AT SEA BY SHIRLEY SERVING Malpighia Punicifolia L.

the West Indian cherries when I locate a all

West Indian Cherry Concentrate Strain seeded cherries until you have two Cups. Put West Indian Cherry Juice Tropical Frozen Blend Strain seeded cherries until you have one Cup of Pitted cherry pulp can be frozen with additional Botanists believe this fruit tree originated in Mexico’s I pick There is another yellow, cherry-like fruit called the The next time you are trekking around your present The next time you are trekking The Caribbean is loaded with fruits. Everyone who The Caribbean is loaded with THE WEST INDIAN INDIAN WEST THE into an uncovered pot over medium heat. Stir con- stantly until half of the liquid evaporates. Remove from heat and cool before pouring into containers for freez- ing. Keep as a cold remedy or as flavoring for drinks, cakes and frozen desserts. juice. Mix in a blender with one Cup of orange juice, a quarter Cup of pineapple chunks, and two ripe banan- as. Add ice to the blender’s capacity. Cover and blend until smooth. Guava and apple are also good combina- tions with West Indian cherries. sweetener and blended into a sorbet. Milk may be sweetener and blended into a sorbet. Milk may be added to either make a shake or to refreeze into ice cream. and some ice and blend until smooth. Yucatan Peninsula. West Indian cherries can be found Yucatan Peninsula. West Indian cherries can be found in all of Central America, throughout the Caribbean, and parts of South America and Southeast Asia. The West Indian cherry is relatively common to the Lesser Antilles from St. Croix to Trinidad, and is also found in Curaçao, Margarita, and as far south as Brazil. If you are looking for a very hard, dense wood, this is the tree. The wood is surprisingly hard and heavy; it won’t burn, even when treated with flammable fluid, unless perfectly dried. recommended daily allowance. One hundred grams recommended daily allowance. One hundred grams has 32 calories and is high in potassium and iron, as well as vitamin C. tree. The red ones are so sweet and tasty, but the tree. The red ones are so sweet and tasty, but the green immature cherries actually have twice the vita- min C than the full-grown deep red. The West Indian cherry is extremely high in ascorbic acid, having per- haps the highest vitamin C content of all fruits, and is now cultivated for medicinal purposes. Acerola cher- ries’ high vitamin C content has been used to treat dysentery, severe colds, and fever. These cherries can also reduce joint inflammation from arthritis and pre- vent infections. A single cherry can have as much as 81 milligrams of vitamin C, 25 percent sour cherry or gooseberry that will pucker your face. island anchorage ask the locals if there is a cherry tree island anchorage ask the locals in the vicinity. Be certain to say you want the sweet, red West Indian or Barbados cherry; few know it by its common Portuguese name, acerola. As with so many of the islands’ fruits and foods this cherry goes by various names. accepted as the correct botanical name. It can also be called the Puerto Rican, Jamaican, French or Barbados cherry, the native cherry, sweet cherry or garden cherry. In Spanish it is named acerola, cereza, or cer- eza colorada. visits any of the islands has tried mangos and banan- visits any of the islands has fruit punches. Pineapples as, and tasted guavas in to limes, abound. If and various citrus, from oranges a soursop. you are lucky you might find JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 YAMAHA GRENADA W.I. TRUE BLUE,ST.GEORGE’S, McIntyre Bros.Ltd. +1-201-825-1400 [email protected] boatbladders.com MADE IN MADE PROUDLY Ramsey, NJUSA Space Saving > > TOURS &CRUISES-CARJEEPRENTAL Simply Unfold & Fill with Std. Nozzle Std. with Fill & Unfold Simply 50, 100, 150, 200, 250, 300 & 500 Gal. 500 & 300 250, 200, 150, 100, 50, Gasoline and Diesel Compatible Diesel and Gasoline Mechanical Installations&Repairs Systems Engineering,Electrical, Painting (Awl GripCertified) Finishing Services,GelCoat, (Vinylester, Epoxy, Carbon,Kevlar) Design andCompositeFabrication Technical Project Yacht Management Available in 7 Convenient Sizes Convenient 7 in Available TTechnical ServiceDockandOffices email: [email protected] PHONE: (473)4443944/1555 e DESIGN c h Outboard Engines2HP-250HP n Duty-Free EnginesforYachts FAX: (473)4442899 i c Parts -RepairsService SSt George’s, Grenada a t l

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O f f i c e s Dear Glandore, Ireland Don Street Grenada, wellclearofanyhurricane. Fernando is105milessouthofthesouthernend and anchoroffSanFernando.At10°15’N, Trinidad, butratherheadtothesouthendofTrinidad not gotothecrowdedanchorageofChaguaramas, because ofapossiblestormthreat,he(orshe)should very high. the chanceofanotherboatdraggingdownonyouis Even ifyourboatisproperlysecuredandsurviving, that thereisnosuchthingasasafehurricanehole. canes astheytraveluptheEastCoastofStates. Gulf ofMexicoareimpossibletopredict,ashurri- of hurricanesthatstartinthewesternCaribbeanor sible todomorethan the EasternCaribbean,itcandoanything.Itisimpos- Law ofProbability(seewww.street-iolaire.com). approach anddangerzonemaybeplottedusingStreet’s 24 hoursandveryseldomaltercoursetothesouth.The hurricanes neveraltercoursemorethanfivedegreesin I wouldliketoaddafewcomments. Dear way oflifethanatypedrilltoseewho canhandle any lessofacruisingsailor. as thatistheirpreference,doesnot makethem who dosowanttotakeamooringorgo into amarina while neversailingatnight,isjustperfect, andifthose of ahundredmiles,whileneverventuring offshoreand brought upon.Forsomecruisers,making adistance describes it,isawonderfulwayandthe one thatIwas everyone —notwithstandingthatChris’s way,ashe boats theycruiseon.Nosinglewayfitsthebillfor to gocruisingastherearepeoplewhocruiseandthe to awonderfulday.Thereareasmanydifferentways mainbrace, astherumrationcanmakeforaniceend the seaandcruising.Wellperhapsnotsplice mainbrace whilewaitingfortheirrumrationtoenjoy that everyonedoesnothavetoknowhowsplicethe fear ofthesea(Thallasaphobia).Theanswertothisis all” andaddsthatitisworsewhenthereanintense doing so. marina ormooringtothenext—andarequitehappy more limitedformanddogoverycarefullyfromone tion tools,somecruisersdefinetheirseamanshipina advent ofbetterweatherforecastingandnaviga- not everyonewantstosailduringthenight.With not cutouttosailoffshoreofthesightlandand cruising nolongerhasonlyonedefinition.Everyoneis of aman’sjib”.However,whathaschangedisthat and, asChrispointsout,wecanrelatethattothe“cut skills tobea“realcruiser”. do notagreethattoday’scruisermusthavethose admire andhaveworkedallofmylifetoimprove—I some oftoday’scruisershavelost—skillsthatI while IagreewithChrisregardingcertainskillsthat also sailingduringthenight.Iwouldliketoaddthat than 40yearssailingoftenoutofthesightlandand community whohavethatfear.Ispentmore referring tomyselfbutthoseofusinthecruising us whofearbeingoutofthesightland”Iwasnot September 2012article“Cruisingwith(out)Fear”. clarify for,ChrisLongwhowroteinJuneregardingmy May issueof FFORUM RREADERS' THE CUTOFAMAN’SJIB If askipperisinGrenadaanddecidestogosouth The Caribbeanhasbecomesocrowdedwithboats Once thehurricanepassesthroughislandsof When theyareapproachingtheEasternCaribbean, HURRICANE COMMENTS Being acruisingsailorismorestateof mindanda He wonders“why(such)peoplebothercruisingat Certainly thereisavalidtopiccalledseamanship When Imadethestatementthatthereare“thoseof I wouldliketotakethisopportunityreplyto,and David Lyman’s“HurricaneSurvivalStrategy”inthe O E Compass Compass R A U D Compass Readers, , M E R guess isanexcellentarticletowhich S whereitwillgo.Thetracks '

—Continuedonnextpage available foruseinthenextthreemonths. are assemblingnewmoorings,whichwe hopewillbe ensure allourmooringsaresafeforuse. Currentlywe moorings areplaced. craft, tobeextravigilantwheninthe areaswhere persons withinthepark,especiallythose inmotor the endoftheirworkday.Wewantto appealtoall mainly takeplaceaftertherangersleave theparkat due tonegligencebytheboatoperators.Theseacts ropes andbuoysbythepropellersofboats,mainly major challengehowever,isthecutting/choppingof anchors uprootedandhavehadtoreplaceothers.Our duction ofthemooringsin2008.Wehavehadsome replacement exercisethisweek. location oftheanchorswhentheyembarkontheir seabed inthepark,whichwillserveasmarkersfor that thereareacoupleofropesandanchorsonthe the ropetofloatandaffectapropeller.Theyadmitted that nobuoysareattachedtothem,itisimpossiblefor because oftheweightropesusedandfact claims madebythewriter.Accordingtorangers, nance ofthemoorings.Theywereverysurprisedat rangers, whoaredirectlyresponsibleforthemainte- clean andsafeenvironment. Marine Parkenjoytheirexperiencesinabeautiful, strive toensurethatvisitorstheTobagoCays time oftheunfortunateincident.Asyouareaware,we niences thatthesailormighthaveencounteredat want toapologizedeeplyforanyproblemsorinconve- Dear CC for aresponsetoyourletter,whichfollows. Dear Robert, My Mistress Robert Mills Sincerely, reliable, whetherplacedbythegovernmentornot. Obviously, sincetheyarebreakingfree,not beware thehazardsinareawithmooringbuoys. and floatingwheretheywillfoulpropellers. area, wefoundotherlinestiedtosea-flooranchors gear andwasabletofreehisprop. anchor andweputoutfenders.Luckily,hehadscuba around thepropeller.Theskipperhaddeployed mine. Icameupandlearnedthatithadcaughtaline looked outtheportlightandsawboatalmoston anchoring closetothebuoys.Iwasbelowwhen away andlaternoticedaboatthatseemedtobe were fewermooringbuoys.Ianchoredasafedistance came tocollecttheparkfee. the problemtoMarineParkrangerswhenthey I movedandanchoredasafedistanceaway.reported beside myboat.Obviously,thebuoyhadbrokenaway. to asea-flooranchorwassuspendedatpropellerdepth when Isnorkelledmyanchor,gotashock!Alinetied holding isgood. therefore, bereliable.Ididn’tusethembecausethe authorities ofSt.Vincent&theGrenadinesandwould, forgiven forassumingthattheywereplacedbythe buoys werenewandofauniformsize.Onecouldbe Cays MarinePark.Theylookedgoodbecausethe Dear S/V MaryAnnII John Freeland on amooringinNevis. the mooringtacklebeforeleavingavesselunattended boat wasnotworking.Irecommendcaptainsinspect had corrodeddowntoapproximately1/8”ofmetal. appeared sound.Thethirdhada3/4”shacklethat sand screw.Thesecondhadbeenreconditionedand first hadabrokenstrandonthemainlinefrom three differentmoorings.Allaresandscrewtype.The they beusedinlieuofanchoring.BEWARE!Wetook Services haveplacedmooringsforyachtsandrequest Dear www.freecruisingguide.com Free CruisingGuides Frank Virgintino,Author it andnotassomeoneelsedefinesit. dream, Ibelievethatyoushouldpursueitaslike cruising, regardlessofthesizeandscopeyour rarely leavetheanchorageortheirmarina. and youwillfindsomewonderfulcruisingsailorswho sailor thecamaraderieofotherswhoenjoycruising the heaviestseas.Addtodefinitionofcruising The TCMPhasembarkedonanextensive exerciseto We havehadanumberofchallengessincetheintro- We havediscussedtheissueathandwithpark We welcometheopportunitytorespond.Firstlywe We askedtheTobagoCaysMarineParkmanagement This situationneedstobecleanedup.Meanwhile, Later, whileswimmingovertotheturtle-viewing Two weeksago,Iwasbackandnoticedthatthere The followingyear,Ianchoredclosetothemand A fewyearsago,mooringsappearedintheTobago TOBAGO CAYSMOORINGNOTE I spoketothePortAuthority,whosaidtheirrepair We haverecentlysailedtoNevis,wherethePort NEVIS MOORINGNOTE To allthecruisingsailorswhohaveeverdreamedof Compass Compass Compass , , , JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 cannot be matched. Marine Insurance My claims settlement record www.street-iolaire.com insurance. You never know how good The insurance business has changed. insurance, but there is no good cheap No longer can brokers talk of low rates. Rather, the honest broker can only say, your insurance is until you have a claim. There is good insurance, there is cheap “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” e-mail: [email protected] I have been connected with the marine insurance business for 47 years. I have developed a rapport with brokers and underwriters at Lloyds and am able to introduce boat owners to specialist brokers in the Lloyds market. . His mind worked . His mind worked , an engineless sailing Ti Kanot while Mott Green and his Tres Hombres Readers, with the idea of using her to deliver choc- with the idea Tres Hombres Prana Compass Not too long ago I was cycling near Hog Island and Mott dreamed a lot, and lived his dreams. He did so For those who never met Mott, Savannah Buffet WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU! We want to hear from YOU! Be sure to include your name, boat name or shoreside We do not publish individual consumer complaints or Send your letters to: [email protected] or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ Bequia VC0400 St. Vincent & the Grenadines For shipping to , Mott packed large quantities The little beach cat was not designed for ocean work, The little beach cat was not In Grenada, visitors checked out the engineless - antine Chocolate Company team stowed quantities of organic Chocolate Company team stowed quantities of organic chocolate to sail to Europe , and he went along for the trip. This year, brigantine, and he went along for the trip. This year, the Grenada Chocolate bars were distributed in the Netherlands by volunteers on bicycles. saw a very fast, very beautiful ten-metre Rush cata- maran painted all over with Grenada Chocolate images. This was to be the next step. Mott and Chris Long had formed a company called Rush Trading to do both day trips and deliver chocolate up the islands. The cat, being designed for day charter, could carry over a ton of chocolate and had been modified with insulated hulls, which were to be chilled using solar power. It was while working on this project he had his fatal accident. in a hands-on way, building, tinkering and planning all the time. Because he had a good heart, his endea- vours bore fruit for all of us who love Grenada. The best memorial he could have is the continuation of what he started. Let us hope for that. (daughter of Jimmy) made an excellent short video about him: www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_ detailpage&v=3o2UwvVp2iw. Chris Doyle Ti Kanot www.doyleguides.com Dear address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Please keep letters shorter than 600 words. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. but he carried a cell phone and had many friends, so but he carried a cell phone and had many friends, so once when his rudder pintle broke, he called Dominique, who has the floating metal workshop in Tyrrel Bay, and Dominique went out and rescued him. After that he sailed with a spare pintle. of his chocolate on on many ideas at once, and long before he was ready, at once, and long before on many ideas Carol wooden John Hanna-designed he bought the ketch out to be a the islands. This turned olate up and down not enough much maintenance and dead end: too remains lie gave her away, and her time. He eventually beach cat, He later owned a 14-foot in Tyrrel Bay. Petit Anse in at the lovely little hotel which he kept He started by north end of Grenada. Sauteurs at the waters, going well to the sailing way out into the rough was trolling for fish as he east, and before long he to deliver chocolate to sailed. Mott used this cat fishing as he went. My Carriacou and Union Island, that Mott could arrive in friend Andy Smelt told me caught, and have it in the Tyrrel Bay, gut a fish he had (chatting non-stop as he pan in less than a minute worked, no doubt). was pushing the envelope, and some of us thought he Grenada Race on my cat, Grenada Race of Haaretz , New York Times in the UK, as well as in , Readers, Readers, The Telegraph Compass Compass Compass Continued from previous page Continued from Most know Mott because of his chocolate, but he was Mott Green lived an adventurous, avant-garde life. MOTT, SAILING AND CHOCOLATE If you can help Michael and his team by providing a Michael and his friends are attempting an 800-mile- We are willing to pay good money to anyone that can We are currently looking for a support boat to CHARITY KAYAKERS SEEK SUPPORT BOAT My name is Michael Houston. I am a 21-year-old Brit And last — Did you remember each day to say, Did you ever notice that your compass is the only Did you ever wonder why fronts go through and Did you ever wonder, in answer to the Customs Did you ever realize on a gentle beam reach that your Did you ever meet anyone who hasn’t raised their Did you ever meet another cruiser and then, after cruiser and then, after Did you ever meet another Did you ever question your balance between “must Did you ever question your Did you ever realize the spring from that broken Did you ever realize the Did you ever wonder why you kept that drawer full Did you ever wonder why Did you ever leave the anchor to drag in the water to Did you ever leave the anchor Did you ever try leaving a dock with one line still Did you ever try leaving a Did you ever say “We’re cruisers, not racers” when Did you ever say “We’re cruisers, Did you ever have another boat overtake you without Did you ever have another boat YOU’RE A CRUISER IF… YOU’RE A CRUISER We are confident that the new system will better that the new system We are confident also an excellent sailor. He loved to sail, which I found out when he joined a group of us for the 2003 Round Israel and Grenadian publications. As the Ancient Greeks would have said: “A lucky man, who led a great life”. But for those of us he left behind, his death was far too soon. He started the Grenada Chocolate Factory using hand- built, improvised, and antique machinery. The factory produces some of the best chocolate in the world. He made it so successful that more people probably now associate Grenada with chocolate than with the 1979 revolution. In doing so, he followed his own sense of egalitarian justice to make sure everyone involved, from farmers to retailers, was treated fairly and he made everything as organic, energy-efficient and solar- powered as possible — a rare and magnificent example in today’s world. He died a legend, with many obituar- ies, including those in the Dear support boat for the St. Maarten to BVI leg of the journey (or in any other way), please contact him at mcwhouston@ googlemail.com. CC long expedition along the island chain from Grenada to long expedition along the island chain from Grenada to Puerto Rico in tandem sea kayaks, to raise money for two UK-based charities: The Centre for Children’s Rare Disease Research at Great Ormond Street Hospital and the Lyla Nsouli Foundation for Children’s Brain Cancer Research. In the process, they aim to be the youngest team ever to have traveled this route in kayaks. With many stints being over 30 miles long, the team will often be kayaking for over 12 hours non-stop, sometimes through the night. For more information visit www.thekxkayakers.co.uk. offer us a support boat! Many thanks Michael Houston www.thekxkayakers.co.uk Dear Readers, accompany us on our longest crossing, from Anguilla accompany us on our longest crossing, from Anguilla or St. Maarten to the BVI. The distance is about 75 miles and will take us at least 30 hours, which is why we are looking for a support boat. Dear and this summer I am attempting to kayak from Grenada to Puerto Rico with three friends. “Aren’t we lucky/blessed/fortunate (pick as many as “Aren’t we lucky/blessed/fortunate (pick as many as you wish) to be doing what we’re doing?” Jock Tulloch S/Y Unleaded piece of navigation equipment on board that doesn’t piece of navigation equipment on board that doesn’t have a lawyer’s warning not to use it for navigation? anchors drag only in the middle of the night? question, “Do you have any illegal drugs aboard?” if question, “Do you have any illegal drugs aboard?” if anyone ever answers “Yes”? mind had been completely blank for the last while? waterline since they started cruising? talking for half an hour, realize you’d met each realize you’d met each talking for half an hour, other before? have” and “KISS”? shackle you threw out last week when you cleaned out shackle you threw out last could have fixed the thing that drawer of broken bits you’re trying to save now? of broken bits and pieces? wash the mud off, and not remember it till you got to wash the mud off, and not the next anchorage? attached? another boat overtook you? checking the trim of your sails? Dear guarantee the safety of the users. guarantee the Regards, Lesroy Noel Marine Park Tobago Cays www.tobagocays.org — JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 Call, faxorvisitourwebsitefor a completelistofboatsforsale 66,900 250,000 48’ 2004DynaCraftMY3strms,A/C 60,000 40’ 2000CruiserExpress,2strms,AP, 125,000 28,000 69,000 35’ 2002Maxum3500Mercruiser 320 HP,genset 98,000 26’ 2001TwinVeeExtremeHonda 4strokes,trailer 63,000 47’ 1983VagabondVoyager,needswork 44’ 1977CSYfullbiminianddodger,newmain 40’ 1992Caliber,2strms,heads,greatcond. 37’ 1997HunterAP,sugarscoop,clean ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES 62’ 1984GulfstarSailmaster aon40S 03-OnrVrin 220000€ 550000€ SOLD 599000€ 259000€ 179000€ 49000€ 179000€ 100000US$ 89000€ Lagoon 410S2-2003OwnerVersion Lagoon 470-20023CabinsNewEngines Lagoon 500-2011 3Cabins-LikeNew Jeanneau SUNODYSSEY 37-1996Ownerboat DUFOUR 385-2005 ATTRACTIVE PRICE Beneteau 50-2007OwnerVersion Hunter Marine-2007Privateboatfulloptions Beneteau Oceanis500-1988Charterversion Amel SuperMaramu2000Superb Amel 542008fulloptions 110 HP Volvo! .GensetWater Maker Air CondFulloptions1 Year Amel Warranty -LikeNew599000€ $339,500 Compass PointMarina,6300Est.Frydenhoj,Suite28, AMEL 542008 www.stthomasyachts.com St. Thomas,U.S.V.I.00802 www.stthomasyachts.com Fax: (340)775-4803 Tel: (340)779-1660 [email protected] MONOHULLS Power Sail 199960’ FountainePajot 200850’ Lagoon

2008 89’ Catana Charter Version -4Cabins/heads

€4.900.000 $619,000 $749,000 Lagoon 410S2-2006 2* 40HP 160000€ 45’ 1987HatterasSF $199,000 200047’ Catana 200750’ Catana 200773’ $ €340,000 $950,000 2,000,000 E xecutive the mostimportant. rabies antibodies,plusheisinexcellenthealth.Thepartofhispaperwork maintained hisrabiesvaccinationsonayearlybasis,andhehasthe30-daytitrefor on theway.MurphyhasaUKPetPassport,asthatishisplaceofbirth,wehave to behelpfulandfriendlyinprocessinghisentry. little problemtakinghimashoreonmanyislands,andhavefoundCustomsofficials particularly hisconstanthuntforcrabsonthewonderfulbeaches.Wehavehadvery other boaters,asheismuchmorememorablethanweare. locals whofindhiminterestingandcute.Heisoftenthemeansofrecognitionfor He isanunusualbreedintheCaribbean,andwegetalotofpositiveattentionfrom Europe andsomeoftheUSAbyland,hasexperiencedseverallong-haulflights. King CharlesSpaniel,Murphy.Murphyhastraveled8,000milesatsea,muchof Dear S\V MaryAnnII John andJuliaFreeland, andMurphytheSeaDog small, quiet,friendlyandcute,allofwhichhelps. and anywherehemightoffendothers.Wearebiasedaswelovehim,butispolite, lead, cleaningupafterhimandputtinginaSherpa(pet-carryingbag)onbuses explored theislands.Wedorespectthatnoteveryonelikesdogs,keepinghimon a out toomuchredtape,andMurphyhasnothadtostayonourboatwhile we who saidwecancallhimwhenarrivetoarrangeadocksidecheck. Saintes. TomorrowwegotoSt.Kitts&Nevisandhavespokenthevetinadvance, he enteredtheislandforfree.MurphyhasalsobeentoGrenada,St.Luciaand Les called thevet,whosawMurphywhenwelandedandaftercheckinghispaperwork allowed tocomeashoreafterasmallpaymentofUSdollars.MontserratCustoms Harbour calledthevetandagainMurphywascheckedatdockside was ment vetinadvancewiththepaperwork.Whenwearrived,CustomsEnglish paid afewECdollarstolethimcomeashore.InAntiguawecontactedthegovern- Dominica hadawonderfulvetinRoseau;hecheckedMurphyatthedockand we rabies vaccination,andMurphywentashorewithusjustdeclaringhimatCustoms. This seasonwehavesailedfromGrenadatoSt.Kitts,visitingnearlyeveryisland Murphy lovestheCaribbean,andrevelsinhisexplorationofnewislands, This isoursecondseasonintheCaribbean,andwehavebeentravellingwith So don’tleaveyourdogbehindastheytoo canenjoytheCaribbean! We wantedtoletotherboatersknowthatdogsarewelcomedonmostislandswith- The FrenchislandssuchasMartiniqueandGuadeloupejustrequireanup-to-date Compass , the Month Letter of JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 Caribbean Propellers Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association (TTSA) Pier 1 Trinidad & Tobago Yacht Club (TTYC) HART’S CUT AREA CARENAGE AREA PORT OF SPAIN AREA Speed cruising: 25kts Speed cruising: 25kts 4700HP Engines: 2 x MWM = Location: & the Grenadines St. Vincent

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PICK UP! , bold Compass Caribbean Compass Ahoy, IMS Yacht Services Marc One Marine Supplies Mariner’s Haven Peake Yacht Services Power Boats Sweet Water Marina Tardieu Marina Tropical Marine West Palm Hotel Zanzibar Restaurant, Peake Yacht Services Bay Island Yachts Budget Marine Caribbean Marine Electrical, Power Boats Coral Cove Marina CrewsInn Marina (also Customs, Hotel and YSATT Office) Dynamite Marine Echo Marine Electropics HIGH SPEED FERRY SPEED HIGH LOA: 115’ LOA: 115’ Beam: 31’ Passengers: 218 Speed max: 34kts the appear in CHAGUARAMAS AREA FOR SALE FOR Elvis Gooding Tel: 784-493-7177 [email protected] Elvis Gooding Tel: See ad page 17 went to press — but plans change, s CALENDAR Compass [email protected] and date(s) of the event and the name in our monthly calendar, please send the name and contact information of the organizing body to BVI Emancipation Festival, Road Town, Tortola. www.bvitourism.com If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE Nevis Culturama festival. (869) 469-1992 Antigua Carnival. http://antiguacarnival.com 48th Annual Carriacou Regatta. www.grenadagrenadines.com Tour des Yoles Rondes, Martinique. http://yoles-rondes.net All information was correct to the best of our knowledge Public holiday in St. Kitts & Nevis (Emancipation Day & Culturama) Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago (Eid al Fitr) Nevis Fruit Festival. Dept. of Agriculture: (869) 469-5603/7302 Mango Melee food and fun fair, St. George Village Botanical Garden, Mango Melee food and fun in Martinique, Bastille Day. Celebrations on French islands; yole races PCYC Hobie Cat Match Races, Grenada, www.pcycgrenada.com o please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. Grenada Carnival. www.grenadagrenadines.com Virgin Gorda. Bitter End Yacht Club 5th Annual BVI Billfish Tournament, Aruba Regatta. Aruba Regatta Foundation, http://aruba-regatta.com Carriacou Junior Sailors’ Regatta. Bonaire Heineken Jazz Festival. www.bonairejazz.com 48th Carriacou Regatta Festival Sailing Races. 21st Annual Firecracker 500 & Chili Cook-off, Tortola. Regatta, Tortola. KATS Chief Minister’s International Youth Public holiday in Anguilla (Constitution Day) Windward Cup Local Sloop Races, Carriacou FULL MOON Parties at Trellis Bay, Tortola; West End, Tortola; and Nevis Carib Great Race (powerboats) from Trinidad to Tobago Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago (Independence Day) Fund Carriacou Children’s Education holiday in the Bahamas (Independence Day) Public Competition. www.bequiatourism.com Bequia Fishermen’s Day Regatta. Barbados Cruising Club (BCC), Barbados Cruising Club Trophy Race. Guy Eldridge Memorial Bay, Tortola; West End, Tortola; and Nevis FULL MOON Parties at Trellis Eve in July” Waterfront & Marina Celebration, 30th Annual “Christmas at the time this issue of

Public holiday in Grenada (Emancipation Day Observance) places (Emancipation Day) Public holiday in many Carriacou Children’s Education Fund Annual Charity Auction. Bird Sr. Day) Public holiday in Antigua & Barbuda (Vere Cornwall (CARICOM Day), Public holiday in some CARICOM countries 8 9 – 11 10 12 – 13 18 20 25 31 www.facebook.com/carriacoujuniorsailing 5 6 - 7 4 – 5 3 – 6 1 2 [email protected] 2 and Jamaica (Independence Day) 2 – 4 AUGUST 27 – Aug 6 25 – Aug 10 28 – Aug 5 28 – Aug 4 31 Potluck Barbecue. [email protected] Annual Welcome 10 13 14 St. Croix. [email protected] [email protected] 14 http://yoles-rondes.net 14 20 22 22 – 25 Virgin Islands Yacht Club (RBVIYC), Royal British www.royalbviyc.org tel (284) 494-3286, [email protected], 24 25 – Aug 7 www.beyc.com (BEYC), [email protected], BEYC Virgin Gorda. JULY 1 2 6 – 7 and the BVI (Territory Day) (Constitution Day) Curaçao (Flag Day) and Cayman Islands 6 - 8 www.katsbvi.com West End Yacht Club (WEYC), Tortola, BVI, 7 tel (284) 496-8685, [email protected] JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 DOMINICA YACHTSERVICES PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES Incl. Pilots,Rigging Chandlery, Charts, TEL +351292391616FAX +351292391656 saw theiradin to tellouradvertisersyou YACHT SERVICES ☛ - Relax!Leavetheworktous MID ATLANTIC Providing all vital services to Providing allvitalservices www.midatlanticyachtservices.com EU-VAT (16%)importation Duty free fuel(+10.000lt) Duty free Caribbean CompassMarketPlace Trans-Atlantic Yachts!

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www.tortugal.com [email protected] RIVER LODGE Tel: 502.5306.6432 www.caraibe-marine.fr [email protected] Tel: +(596)596748033Cell:(596)696276605 Jeff Fisher–Grenada(473)537-6355 and bluewatercruising. harsh environmentofthechartertrade well-built sailsthatarewellsuitedtothe for acompetitivequoteonruggedand Check outourwebsiteorcontactusdirectly S.I.M.S. Boatyard,True Blue,Grenada stainless steelandaluminiumitems. TechNick Ltd. welding. Fabricationandrepairof Engineering, fabricationand LE MARIN,MARTINIQUE www.neilprydesails.com Tel: (473)536-1560/435-7887 Nick Williams, Manager [email protected] Grenada NEILPRYDE Sails HHotel MarinaRestaurant o t e l

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JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43

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REMEMBER eoeafter before Stainless.com Stainless.com Compass ! JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 , and have in 2003. Matira Prana so we could all indulge in the M/V Epicurus Prana , Frank Pearce wrote of Mott helping a shipwrecked sailor: “Mott stopped at to let us know how everything was going with the choco- stopped at to let us know how everything was going with Compass From Hobie cat to engineless square-rigger, Mott pursued his dream of deliver- From Hobie cat to engineless square-rigger, Mott pursued waiting for a canal transit This was taken from our last IM chat with Mott while [5/29/2013 12:04:29 PM] grenadachocolate: now working on new cat here for [5/29/2013 12:14:23 PM] Phil and Di: well that must keep you busy when you [5/29/2013 12:15:25 PM] grenadachocolate: we are putting in some new hatch- [5/29/2013 12:17:59 PM] Phil and Di: we are so thrilled that you are now truly Patrick Holian is a freelance writer living on Bonaire. He writes stories about Patrick Holian is a freelance writer living on Bonaire. He “Yeah, it’s called Breathless Monday. It’s a gathering of locals and others to get a gathering of locals and Breathless Monday. It’s “Yeah, it’s called It is very sad that his life ended so quickly, but that is how he lived life — always Phil and Di Cook cruised the Caribbean aboard the yacht Editor’s note: Mott Green touched many lives in many ways. In the March 2013 For a man who had spent more than ten years working to make Grenada day personally and hand carried the Styrofoam cooler with ice packs to the pilot day personally and hand carried the Styrofoam cooler delayed anywhere along the with specific instructions not to let the chocolate be on its arrival and arranged way. He then phoned the St. Lucia Customs to check by phone for immediate release to the 110 chef-sized bars without further ado! Now that is personalized service, Mott 110 chef-sized bars without further ado! Now that is deliver chocolate to us, style! Another time Mott flew up to St Lucia to personally Lucia. while he investigated options for selling to outlets in St. in NYC, London and ing Grenada chocolate under sail to specialty lovers harbours that the brigantine Amsterdam. He would call us on Skype from different Tres Hombres holds he had installed late during its first experimental year with the refrigerated monitoring the himself, using solar energy. He was meticulous about the delivery at each desti- and condition of the shipment and about ensuring that part of the way to be there nation went smoothly, even if it meant flying the last had seen and how fulfilled when the ship arrived. He raved about all the wildlife he providing “fair transport” to he felt to be part of this groundbreaking method of overseas Grenada Chocolate outlets. date to head into the Pacific: inter-island deliveries. it is all painted with blue and cocoa pods like our van and cool chambers built. much work to do still though, maybe another month or two. are not at the factory. Are you still working on the cool storage for the chocolate? what else besides the painting needs to be done before you sail her to Grenville? es, an underwater generator, solar panel holder out the stern, building a sail/ rowing dinghy, wire-up, etc living the dream you have had for so long and this is so much more exciting for you than sailing a boat like By becoming more aware of your surroundings, you get more respect for nature. It By becoming more aware of your surroundings, you also inspires a more healthy lifestyle.” You can read his blog at adventure travel, the islands, sailing and the environment. http://worldkid66.wordpress.com. encouragement as well as helpful suggestions on how to improve my technique. He on how to improve my as well as helpful suggestions encouragement to an upcoming FLOW event. also invites me instruction. We platform and basic safety freedive. FLOW supplies the together and to freedive and I want to inspire people rule, and that is to dive safely. only have one world. more aware of the underwater in the water, but also to become be comfortable at warp speed. We will miss him: his energy, his nuttiness, his ingenious ideas, his eccentricity, his infectious enthusiasm — it was all part of who he was. Not many people knew the real Mott we got to know. RIP, my friend; you will be missed greatly by many, and very deeply by Di and me. recently transited the Panama Canal into the Pacific. issue of Green, proprietor and manager of the Grenada Chocolate Factory, was contacted by phone and immediately set off for Halifax Bay (Grenada) by road. Anyone knowing that remote bay will recall that there is no easy land access. Mott, having struggled through the undergrowth, got to the water’s edge with emergency rations: a can of sardines, granola bars and a spare cell phone for Paul in a watertight bag.” Chocolate Company an internationally recognized and respected business, he still exuded the same energy and enthusiasm for his latest project to deliver chocolate inter-island as he did for the ill-fated chocolate ship-to-be WHAT’S ON MY MIND the octopus and I just looked at each other’ whenever he needed a hand), we spent hours by Phil Cook

didn’t work out for many reasons but while he still Prana Prana

, an old wooden boat he had recently purchased to pursue the , an old wooden boat he had recently purchased to pursue Right: ‘Instead of swimming off, the octopus opened up all the way… Right: ‘Instead of swimming off, the octopus opened up Prana Memories of Mott One of our fondest memories is a “chocolate delivery” he made to St. Lucia via After that, whenever I went to see him, I would help Mott with electrical projects Mott kept inviting us to see his part of the world in Hermitage, Grenada so one Weekend after weekend my wife, Di, and I would meet Mott for a cup of tea after Weekend after weekend my wife, Di, and I would meet I first met Mott Green in Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout in Carriacou while he was I first met Mott Green in Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout in air because several of us cruisers were missing our Grenada Chocolate fix and no one had been recently to Grenada to bring any back. He met the first plane of the or we would throw around ideas for factory extensions or machinery improve- ments. Over the years, after the initial first couple of visits, Di and I spent only our daylight hours with him, preferring to stay the evenings in the village of Sauteurs at the beautiful beachside suite he negotiated for us, as the factory and old house offered only pretty basic living conditions. It suited him, anyway, as he could check on his Hobie cat nearby, the one he sailed often to Carriacou to drop off chocolate or just go out to sea to catch fresh fish. Our days were spent more often traveling around Grenada to check out cocoa farm co-ops who contributed to his cocoa factory, or watching him maintain his machinery, stumbling through the nutmeg forest or having lunch at Belmont Cocoa Estate. day we went up there, staying in an old house at the edge of the nutmeg forest at the top end of the road past the chocolate factory. Once through the tour of the factory and making a lunch of “oil down” with vegetables from his organic garden, Mott decided to show us the trail to his bamboo house where he lived on and off for many years while he experimented with processing chocolate and “cocoa tea” by hand. Barefoot, confident and still moving at warp speed, Mott set off through the heavy forest growth and slick red mud with us stumbling along behind, trying to keep up with him. Mott talked constantly of the years he spent here with only solar power and living off the land while he dreamed of making chocolate to sell commercially. he arrived on the ferry from Grenada and Mott would discuss his latest progress, he arrived on the ferry from Grenada and Mott would usually going more backwards than forwards. He was eccentric and “wired” but a very likeable person and after we gave up working on boats for the day (I would help him with projects on “solving the world’s problems” or discussing the latest aspects of his dream or making dinner together. had her, I admired his relentless enthusiasm to make the dream happen. Setbacks were merely a challenge for Mott, who needed ways to burn off all that excess energy anyway! dream of delivering chocolate by yacht throughout the Caribbean. Instantly we dream of delivering chocolate by yacht throughout the could sympathise with the had a bond. I had already owned two wooden boats and navigable. endless work that needed to be done to make his boat underneath Continued from page 23 Continued from …Freediving Don’t kick until your fins are under the surface. by pinching my nose and Once below, I try to follow the line, clear the pressure kick wide and gentle strokes. Before I know it I am hovering above the sunken ship. kick wide and gentle strokes. 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@caribbeancompass.com accompanying classifieds accompanying classifieds the 10thofmonth Include name, address Include name,address and numbers in count. and numbersincount. Line drawings/photos Line drawings/photos PER WORD aie rnd 38 27 Grenada 18 Venezuela MP Trinidad YES Martinique MP Trinidad Yacht SteeringCommittee Xanadu Marine MP X marine Grenada10/MP MP MP WIND Martinique 39 SVG West PalmHotel Venezuela Venezuelean MarineSupply Guatemala 22 MP Grenada Velocity WaterServices 21 Turbulence Sails Tortugal MarinaHotel PuertoRico C/W TMM SVG MP Tikal Arts&Crafts SVG 40 Technick Grenada Superyacht Shipping St.Thomas Sunsail MarineCenter 12 Sunbay Marina St. ThomasYachtSales MP

E-mail: Pre-paid by Pre-paid by US 50¢ RENTALS are US$10 are US$10 shellese

JULY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 up to 75 $0.67 up to 32 $0.39 up to 65 $0.66 up to 40 $0.48 up to 50 $0.53 up to 60 $0.59 up to 80 $0.83 up to 100 $0.85 LOA in feetLOA Monthly: $/ft/day Multihulls are charged times at the 1.5 standard rate. periods, please contact us for a personalised quote. For yachtsFor above feet 100 and LOA, for bookings of longer Low SeasonLow Rates: 1 June to 30 November 2013 , WEST INDIES $595 for a 40 footer $595

| 32 foot yacht can berth can yacht foot 32 . TURKEY | MALTA MALTA | per month. It’s It’s per month.

ITALY ITALY |

CYPRUS | email [email protected] email Call Danny Donelan on +1 (473) 435 7431 or 7431 435 (473) Danny DonelanCall on +1 $1,095 for a 60 footer $1,095

this summer Get down to Grenada Grenada to down Get and during the summer months – not least for its spectacular carnival carnival its spectacular least for – not months the summer during hurricane belt and is growing in popularity among yacht owners yacht among popularity in growing is and belt hurricane WWW.CNMARINAS.COM/PLM ABU DHABI From 1 June to 30 November a 30 November to 1 June From USD $390 for just Port Louis Marina provides a safe, secure berth with all the amenities berth the amenities secure all with a safe, Marina provides Port Louis Lying just above 12 degrees North, Grenada is south of the main the main of south North, Grenada is degrees 12 above just Lying And the ‘Spice Island’ of Grenada guarantees a genuine, a genuine, Grenada guarantees of Island’ And the ‘Spice warm welcome. which takes place from 9 to 13 August. 13 9 to from place takes which Summer berths from just berthsSummer just from you’d expect from a full-service marina run by Camper & Nicholsons. & Nicholsons. Camper expect run by marina a full-service you’d from $400 a month $400 a month

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