C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS JUNEJUNE 2008 NNO.O. 115353 TheThe CCaribbean’saribbean’s Monthly Look aatt SSeaea & SShorehore

Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta See story on page 13 TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

ama Puerto Rico St. Croix St. Lucia St. Martin St. Vincent Trinidad and Tobago Antigua Barbados Bequia British Virgin Islands Curacao DominicaGrenada Panama St. Rico Puerto Croix h Virgin Islands Curacao Dominica Pan Grenada Virgin Curacao Islands h St. Lucia St. St. Martin Vincent Trinidad and Tobago

t Trinidad and Tobago Antigua Barbados Bequia Britis Barbados Antigua Tobago and Trinidad t Antigua Barbados Bequia British Virgin Islands Curacao Curacao Islands Virgin British Bequia Barbados Antigua Dominica Grenada Panama Puerto Rico St. Croix Croix St. Rico Puerto Panama Grenada Dominica St. Lucia St. Martin St. Vincen St. Martin St. Lucia St. JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4

CONNELLY - LYNN STEPHANE LEGENDRE The Caribbean’sMonthlyLookatSea&Shore 0Raost o...... 26 10 ReasonstoGo ...... Hail Colombia! 20 A StepBackinTime ...... Bonjour, Haïti 12 Guadeloupe toCuba ...... Rally toNewSights See Writers’Guidelinesatwww.caribbeancompass.com.Sendsubmissions [email protected]. Caribbean Compass Tel: (767)448-2705,[email protected] Dominica MarineCenter,24VictoriaStreet,Roseau, Dominica: [email protected] Tel: (5999)767-9042,Fax:767-9003, Curaçao: [email protected] Tel/Fax: (246)426-0861 Barbados: [email protected] Tel (268)720-6868 Antigua: Compass AgentsbyIsland: [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Art, Design&Production...... WilfredDederer [email protected] Advertising &Distribution...... TomHopman [email protected] Assistant Editor...... ElaineOllivierre [email protected] Editor...... Sally Erdle www.caribbeancompass.com [email protected] Tel: (784)457-3409,Fax:457-3410, Bequia, St.VincentandtheGrenadines. Compass PublishingLtd.,P.O.Box175BQ, Caribbean Compass 36 Cartoons ...... Island Poets 36 ...... Sailors’ Horoscope Meridian Passage 35 ...... This CruisingLife 34 ...... All Ashore…...... 32and33 Destinations...... 20 and24 16 Regatta News...... 10 Eco-News ...... 8 Business Briefs ...... AdSales&Distribution-LucyTulloch Distribution - Cees de Jong Distribution-CeesdeJong Distribution - Norman Faria Distribution-NormanFaria Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution -HubertJ.Winston welcomes submissionsofshortarticles,newsitems,photosanddrawings. except shortexcerptsforreviewpurposes,maybemadewithoutwritten permissionofCompassPublishingLtd. ©2008 CompassPublishingLtd.Allrightsreserved.Noreproduction, copyortransmissionofthispublication, supplied byothercompanies. Compass PublishingLtd.acceptsnoliabilityfordelayeddistributionor printingqualityastheseservicesare responsibility foranystatementsmadetherein.Lettersandsubmissions maybeeditedforlengthandclarity. sole responsibilityoftheadvertiser,writerorcorrespondent,andCompass PublishingLtd.acceptsno We supportfreespeech! is published monthly by ispublishedmonthlyby www.caribbeancompass.com JUNE 2008•NUMBER153 ...... 36 ...... DEPARTMENTS ISSN 1605-1998 But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the Butthecontentofadvertisements,columns,articlesandlettersto editorarethe [email protected] Tel: (58-281)265-3844Tel/Fax:265-2448, Venezuela: [email protected] Tel: 868)634-2622Mob:(868)620-0978 Trinidad: Tel: (284)494-2830,Fax:494-1584 Tortola/BVI: Tel: (784)457-3527,[email protected] St. Vincent&theGrenadines: Tel: (340)7747931,[email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: [email protected] Tel/Fax: +590(0)590845310Mob:64945 Ad Sales-StéphaneLegendre Distribution -EricBendahan(599)5533850 St. Maarten/St.Barths/Guadeloupe: [email protected] Tel: (758)584-1292, St. Lucia: [email protected] Tel: (0596)596686971,Mob:+(0)696932638 Martinique: [email protected] Mob: +590(0)6904945 lsiidAs...... 54 Classified Ads ...... What’s OnMyMind 53 ...... 51 Caribbean Marketplace...... Readers’ Forum 46 ...... Cooking withCruisers.....44,45 Book Reviews...... 39-41 38 Dolly’s DeepSecrets ...... Cruising Kids’Corner 38 ...... Word SearchPuzzle 37 ...... Cruising Crossword i ac o h abe....42 Big CatchfortheBarbie ...... Very Fishy… 27 Special Pull-OutSection ...... Season Info Hurricane Ad Sales & Distribution - Jack Dausend Ad Sales&Distribution-JackDausend Distribution -WayneBarthelmy Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik AdSales&Distribution-PattyTomasik Stéphane Legendre Guadeloupe: Tel: (473)[email protected] Ad Sales&Distribution-AlanHooper Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado AdSales&Distribution-IsabellePrado Distribution-GladysJones Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution-BryanLezama Ad Sales & Distribution AdSales&Distribution ...... 37 ......

Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Ad Sales-DebraDavis, MCCLARY Adela Cover Photo:TimWright/www.photoaction.com andSanAndres.www.DestinationCartagena.com/morgans_run.html (268)460-1799,[email protected],www.antiguayachtclub.com tel/fax TBA Boatanddinghyracesinmanyfishingcommunities TBA Curaçao.www.optinam2008.org 29 -July6 29 28 -Jul6 27 -July8 St.Maarten.www.tropicalsailloft.com 27 -29 26 -28 MarinaBas-du-Fort,Guadeloupe.(590690)728809 24 tel(284)494-3286,[email protected],www.rbviyc.net 21 -22 21 21 21 www.enoriente.com/expomorro 20 –24 19 –22 19 18 15 14 –15 9 JUNE [email protected] TBA 30 –Aug3 30 27 -Aug4 27 -Aug3 26 -Aug5 26 25 -27 25 24 -27 24 21 20 -28 19 18 www.guadeloupefishingclub.com/calendrier.html 16 –19 15 14 13 12 -Aug2 12 11 –20 11 –14 8 -21 WestEndYachtClub(WEYC), tel (284)495-1002,fax495-4184, 7 5 CarnivalinSt.John,USVI [email protected], 4 -5 www.weyc.net 4 3 2 1 JULY send thenameanddate(s)ofevent andthenamecontactinformation Compass Queen’sBirthday(UK).PublicholidayinAnguilla CARICOMDay.Publicholidayincountries IndependenceDay.PublicholidayinVenezuela IndependenceDay(USA).PublicholidayinPuerto RicoandUSVI. CuraçaoFlagDay.Publicholidayin TerritoryDay.PublicholidayinBVI All informationwascorrecttothebestofourknowledgeattimethisissue If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismevent listedFREEinourcalendar,please ihra’ itdy(t ee’ a) Fisherman’sBirthday(St.Peter’sDay). BattleofCaraboboDay.PublicholidayinVenezuela InternationalMusicDay:andMarinersFestival. FinancialServicesChallengeRace,BVI.RoyalBVIYachtClub(RBVIYC), Summer LabourDay.Publicholidayin Trinidad Solstice Fathers’Day.PublicholidayinPuertoRico FULL MOON arao hlrnsEuainFn olc abce CarriacouChildren’sEducationFundPotluckBarbecue, JoséCelsoBarbosa’sBirthday.PublicholidayinPuertoRico ConstitutionDay.PublicholidayinPuertoRico BirthofSimónBolívar.PublicholidayinVenezuela Schoelcher Day.PublicholidayinMartinique LowellWheatley PursuitRace,Anegada,BVI FULL LuísMuñozRivera’sBirthday.PublicholidayinPuertoRico BastilleDay.PublicholidayinFrenchWestIndies MOON 20thBastilleKingfishTourney,St.Thomas,USVI.(340)774-5206 Clean-UpDive,Bonaire.www.dive-friends-bonaire.com Morgan’sRun2008,rallyfromCartagena,ColombiatoOldProvidence GreenIslandWeekend,Antigua.AntiguaYachtClub(AYC),

7hAna ierce 0 ae otl,BI 17thAnnualFirecracker500Race,Tortola,BVI. atAntiguaClassicYachtRegatta St.LuciaCarnival.www.stlucia.org Fishermen’sFestival,Charlotteville,Tobago 12thAnnualSt.KittsMusicFestival.www.stkittsmusicfestival.net RebellionDays.PublicholidayinCuba USVILifestyleFestival,St.Thomas.www.usvimf.com Statia Carnival ScotiabankOptiRegatta,St.Thomas,USVI.www.styc.net HarrisPaintsRegatta,Barbados.www.barbadosyachtclub.com 3rdFreelanderFishingFestival,MarinaBas-du-Fort,Guadeloupe. DominicaDiveFest.www.discoverdominica.com/site/divefest.cfm Premier’sCupInternationalYouthRegatta,Tortola,BVI.RBVIYC aiba n-einKeba hminhp, Caribbean One-DesignKeelboatChampionships, La ExpoNáuticaAnzoátegui(boatshow),Lecherías,Venezuela. Nevis Culturama(Carnival) Emancipation Day.PublicholidayinUSVI HIHOWindsurfingWeek,BVI.www.go-hiho.com St.VincentCarnival.www.carnivalsvg.com wenttopress—butplanschange,sopleasecontacteventorganizers ot mrcnOtms hminhp OTNM, North AmericanOptimistChampionships(OPTINAM), 43ndCarriacouRegattaFestival.www.carriacouregatta.com ProKidsWindsurfEvent,Bonaire AntiguaCarnival.www.antiguacarnival.com TobagoHeritageFestival SabaCarnival.www.sabatourism.com CALENDAR [email protected] of theorganizingbodyto directly forconfirmation. JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 . The 137-foot Roseway was built in 1925 in Essex, Massachusetts, as a

In the same general area, oil-drilling operations are area, oil-drilling operations In the same general Fleet US Navy Revives Caribbean April that it has re-estab- The US Navy announced in Tall Ships in Christiansted Two tall ships were spotted at the Gallows Bay com- (each nine to 12 feet long) comprising each FAD are 12 feet long) comprising each (each nine to rope. The 35 metres of polypropylene connected by in an area roughly between FADS are located are and 11°23’N, 60°58’W. They 11°18’N, 60°34’W apparently unlit. phone (868) 471-4696. For more information rig, you are see the anchored drilling underway. If you a dis- it a wide berth, maintaining advised to give to the rig, 500 metres. In addition tance of at least been pre-laid in other anchors in sets of eight have are also advised to give well exploration sites. Vessels wide berth. Relevant the anchor marker buoys a on North Post Notices to Mariners will be broadcast Radio monitors VHF Radio (Trinidad). North Post then uses VHF Channels Channel 16 and MF 2182 USB, 24, 25, 26, or 27. increase American naval lished the US Fourth Fleet to and Latin America. presence in the Caribbean chief of naval opera- Admiral Gary Roughead, the a separate fleet for tions, said the decision to establish immense importance of the region “recognizes the part of the Western maritime security in the southern signal to all the civil Hemisphere, and sends a strong in Central and Latin and military maritime services established in 1943, was a America.” The Fourth Fleet, World War II when it major US navy command during was used to enforce blockades and protect against enemy submarines and raiders. It was eliminated in the 1950s when US Second Fleet (Atlantic) took over its responsibilities. mercial dock in St. Croix recently. The one to the right (see photo next page) is the Roseway private fishing yacht and later was used as a pilot vessel. —Continued on next page Tobago’s north coast anchorages — such as Englishman’s Bay, Tobago’s north coast anchorages — such as Englishman’s sailing shown here — are unspoiled and uncrowded, but when offshore watch out for FADs and oil rig anchors

SALLY ERDLE

off the north coast of Tobago. Each FAD consists of off the north coast of Tobago. and anchored. two bamboo rafts tied in tandem buoy. The two rafts Each FAD is marked by a flagged Long Term Berth Sales: Long Term International Sales Manager Anna Tabone Email: [email protected] +356 2248 0000 Tel:

Find us in the Lagoon, St. George’s, Grenada. Find us in the Lagoon, St. George’s, Grenada’s answer to St Barts, St Tropez, Costa Smeralda, Portofino... answer to St Barts, St Tropez, Grenada’s & Berth Rental: Yachts Visiting Email: [email protected] +1 473 435 7431 or +1 473 415 0820 Tel: VHF channel 14 C&N Port Louis Marina Phase one of Camper & Nicholsons PortPhase one of Camper & Nicholsons Louis Marina is now open. superyachtDuring the course of this year we will be adding nine berths and 200 berths from 10 to 40 metres. and the Capitainerie, which can provide full marine support includes shops, a restaurant/bar, The Creole Village services. Details of the entire Port Louis project are available at the Port Office, including information Louis Sales on property and long-term berth sales. Due to ongoing development, present berthing availability is limited so please contact us in advance of your business.

Hazards to Navigation Off Tobago Fish Aggregation Sailors should beware of 12 Devices (FADS) that have been placed in the waters Devices (FADS) that have been

& Updates & Info JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 tional dugoutcanoe,the islands inthechain.Althoughtheircraftwasatradi- of islandsfromSouthAmericatocolonizeeachthe people paddledtheircanoesuptheCaribbeanchain commemorated thewaypre-ColumbianKalinago of Martiniqueintheearlymorninghours.Theevent Dominica, havingdepartedGrandRivièreinthenorth Youmoulicou org andwww.amistadamerica.org. South Carolina. on herwayfromBarbadostoCharleston, Compass and sailtraining.Ontheleftis only 150shipssodesignated.Shenowdoescharters — Roseway On May2nd,the60-foottraditionalCaribcanoe Carib CanoeCrossingtoDominica For moreinformationvisitwww.worldoceanschool. Continued frompreviouspage , May2008),makinganunannouncedvisit isaUSNationalHistoricLandmark,oneof paddledintoScottsHeadBay, Youmoulicou Amistad paddlerswere replica(see (Hemingway InternationalYachtClub)ofHavana, mixx777/CaribCanoeCrossing2May2008. is todayPuertoRico. each oftheCaribbeanislandstowhat lands intheSouthAmericanAmazonBasinupthrough travel oftheKalinagopeoplefromtheirancestral ond yearofaseven-yearprojecttorecreatethesea drummers, andablessingceremonywasperformed. waving childrenandacorpsof Caribs intraditionaldress,flag- dozen paddlersweregreetedby tance isapproximately25miles. and PFDs.Thecross-channeldis- clothing, includinghats,sunglasses decked outinmodernprotective

Club NáuticoInternacionalHemingway Happy Birthday,HemingwayYachtClub! See thevoyageathttp://picasaweb.google.com/ The KARISKOAssociationofMartiniqueisinitssec- On arrivalinDominica,thetwo ELLEN SANPERE ELLEN boating lastmonth promoting recreational which celebrated16yearsof Cuba’s famousyachtclub, Right: Visitorsarewelcomeat Christiansted waterfront and Freedom SchoonerAmistad Left: Apairoflovelies: Roseway gracingthe

the members’baronfirstfloorofclubhouse. government; clubincomeisfromdues,donationsand unusual inasocialistcountry.Nofundscomefromthe something boaterselsewheretakeforgrantedbut ary yachtclubinCuba. able toclearthewayopenfirstpost-revolution- ficult. Nevertheless,withgreateffort,DíazEscrichwas ists madethecreationofanewanddifferentonedif- as elitist,exclusionaryorganizationsofwealthycapital- many clubspriorto1960,buttheperceptionofthem all Cubanyachtclubswereclosed.Therehadbeen Hemingway, sevenmileswestofHavana.Atthetime, posed foundinganewyachtclubatMarina became aconsultantfornauticaltourismandpro- Pimiento wroteintheJune2003issueof but hefeltthatsectorshouldbedeveloped.AsElena there wasvirtuallynorecreationalboatinginCuba, José MiguelDíazEscrich.Afterthe1959Revolution, thousand membersfromallovertheworld. The onlyclubofitskindinCuba,CNIHhasnearlytwo Cuba, celebratedits16thanniversaryonMay21st. “The clubisnon-profitandcompletelyindependent, Its founderandcommodoreisformernavalofficer —Continued onnextpage Compass : “He JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 , of course!). we welcome new advertis- Compass Compass contributors are making waves! contributors are Welcome Aboard! In this issue of Compass Contributors’ News Compass Contributors’ Compass old boat, not only bought a new Julia Bartlett has And Jo-Anne Nina Sewlal, who is studying for a ers Heineken Regatta Curaçao, page 17; Seasick Prevention Clinics of Trinidad, page 43; Dockyard Electrics, KNJ Mariner, Navtech Electronics and Lennox Stewart Boat Work, all of Trinidad; and Marigot Hill of St. Lucia; in the Caribbean Compass Market Place, pages 51 through 53. Good to have you with us! which she’s refurbishing in the Western Caribbean, in the Western Caribbean, which she’s refurbishing reviews a novel published to positive she’s also had in (including one doctorate at the University of the West Indies in Trinidad, recently received the Vincent Roth Award from the American Arachnology Society for her work in documenting the spiders of the Eastern Caribbean. See www.sampasystems.com/bartlett-book.html.

DEREK BERRY For more information on the SMMA contact [email protected]. For more information For more information St. Lucia Weather for Soufrière, (SMMA) in Management Area The Soufrière Marine tion for the Soufrière area can be found at www. pitons.net/weather/weather.htm or www.wunder- ground.com/weatherstation/WXDailyHistory. asp?ID=ISOUFRIE1. helping hand if someone needs assistance. The BYC if someone needs assistance. helping hand in jerry cans yachtsmen to collect water allows visiting or receive will hold mail, and can send free of charge, e-mail of visiting yachtsmen — e-mail on behalf address [email protected].” visit www.barbadosyachtclub.com. Until the new St. Lucia is building a new website. current weather informa- SMMA website is online, the Continued from previous page Continued from Barbados YC Says Welcome Sharon Christie of the Barbados Yacht Club, located For more information contact For more information contact Temporary membership is highly recommended for is highly recommended Temporary membership Ever anchored below the Pitons in a really strong blow? Check the Soufriere area weather before you go Ever anchored below the Pitons in a really strong blow? on Carlisle Bay, wrote recently to Chris Doyle: “We love to see visiting yachtsmen and there is always someone around who will give information or lend a [email protected]. visiting boaters. Annual membership dues are very Annual membership dues visiting boaters. or to those who plan to stay awhile reasonable for return often. — for club expenses, funds are used After operating hosting nautical events, including functions and junior races, fishing tournaments, international sailboat and the national kayak and sailing regattas water-ski teams.” JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 B cleaning agentsand“GreenT-shirts”.Apercentage ing biodegradablesoaps,shampoos,detergents, boutique witharangeofeco-friendlyproductsinclud- setting sail,thecompanywillalsobestockingtheir all yachtcharterskipperswillbeaskedtosignbefore of vegetationbylivestockandweathersystems. these intheGrenadinestocompensatefordepletion emissions resultingfromtheirairtravelbyplanting ter andwillbeencouragedtooff-setthecarbon Casuarina orCoconutplantatthestartoftheirchar- watering thegardens. also catchingrainwaterandre-cyclinggreywaterfor state-of-the artsewagetreatmentsystem,andare their full-servicemarinafacility,theyareinstallinga sustainable, environmentally-friendlychartering.”At essary toleadthewayforwardinthisindustry,towards yacht chartercompany,wearedoingwhatevernec- Barnard explains:“Whilewemaybeasmall,local and “SailGreen”campaigns.Owner/managerMary Grenadines, haslaunchedits“BarefootGoesGreen” Yacht ChartersofBlueLagoon,St.Vincent&the see adonpage22. Panama Canal,cruisinginCubaandmuchmore. of interestinJamaica,tosuchtopicsastransitingthe Caribbean regionasawhole,andrangefromplaces mation forvisitorstobothJamaicaandthe Center andConciergeServices.Theseincludeinfor- office hours.Alsoonofferarethemarina’sInformation word-controlled withthefreeuseofcomputersduring months ormoreinadvance. day, withdiscountsavailableforpaymentsix Long-term drystoragefeesare30centsperfoot Marine Travelift,startingatUS$75fora30-footyacht. highly competitiveratesforliftandlaunchusingtheir on page5. to connectandfromtheflightinoneday. week butitalsoenablesanyoneintheContinentalUS passenger trafficintotheislandbyover1,000seatsa the followingmorning. Grenada, andthenreturntoMiamidepartingat8:30 three hourslater.Theplanewillthenovernightin to departMiamiat5:00 has agreedtoschedulea148-passengerBoeing737 flights. FromNovember20th2008,AmericanAirlines ed bygovernmenttosecuretheAmericanAirlines raising US$1.5milliontocoverthebondthatwaspost- Sp Spice Islandgetsnon-stopAmericanAirlinesservice. o of theGovernmentGrenadatoensurethat paid overEC$1milliontoAmericanAirlinesonbehalfp RIEFS f th aid overEC In additiontodevelopinga“GreenPledge”which Charter guestswillbepresentedwithasmallpotted To encourageenvironmentalprotection,Barefoot St. Vincent’sBarefootGoesGreen For moreinformationonErrolFlynnMarina For marinaclientele,wi-fiaccessisfreeandpass- Jamaica’s ErrolFlynnMarinaandshipyardoffers News fromErrolFlynnMarina,Jamaica For furtherinformationonPortLouisMarinaseead Not onlydoesthiscommitmentincreasedirectUS The Government’sAirliftCommitteewastaskedwith Port LouisandCamper&NicholsonsMarinashaveP Port LouisHelpsBringAmericanAirlinestoGrenadaP ice Island ort LouisHelpsBrin ort LouisandCam e

Go Technical shop Equipment forrent Haulout andhullsandblasting Breakdown service24/7 Engine diagnosis Boat Maintenance Mechanics andElectricity SERVICES v e USINESS rnm g $ ets non-sto 1 milliontoAmericanAirlines e LEAVE YOUR BOATINSKILLEDHANDS nt o f g p G AmericanAirlinesto er &NicholsonsMarin PM r p e andarriveinGrenada AmericanAirlines n ada t o

e n su r e th on b ser Gre a as t t FRED MARINE 24h BREAKDOWNSERVICE•SALESREPAIRSMAINTENANCE Phone: +590590907137Fax:908 651 MARINE MECHANICS(ALLMAKES)-HAULOUT Boatshed involvedinthemanyeventsandregattas forward totrainingmembersoftheteamandgetting They areagreat,freshcompanyandwelooking delighted tobeworkingwithBoatshedinAntigua. Commercial ManageratOndeck,said,“Weare ing charterevents. renowned foritsmatchracing,sailtrainingandcruis- sailors outonthewater.Thecompanyisalso equipped totakecompletebeginnersseasoned training supplierinAntigua. and seeOndeckbecomethecompany’sofficialsail Antiguan businessoperationsinOndeck’sfacilities, Antigua SailingWeek,willseeBoatshedlocateits tionship, whichwasannouncedattherecentStanford yacht brokeragecompanyintheworld.Thenewrela- an exclusivepartnershipwithBoatshed,thelargest pany andpowersailingschool,hasannounced League [email protected]. Cross volunteer. Association andtheNavyLeagueaswellaRed Island SearchandRescue,WaterCivic during themonthofAugust. Ackerson thegreatestsatisfactionandfindshimbusy popular fundraisingeventsoftheyear,whichbrings annual ChiliCook-Off,oneofthelargestandmost money raisedforlocalon-islandcharitiesthroughthe Virgin Islands,itisthecommunityinvolvementand Corporation untilitwassoldlastyear. over thereinsasGeneralManagerofQualityFood er, ErikmadetheVirginIslandshishomein1998,taking sional chefthenafoodserviceterritorysalesmanag- announced theirnewDirector—ErikAckerson. yachts. TheVICLBoardofGovernorsrecently 40-year-old associationofprivate,crewedcharter Marine Centreseeadonpage13. mental efforts. of thesaleproceedswillbeinvestedinlocalenviron- Commenting onthepartnership,SamSainsbury, Ondeck’s successfulAntiguanoperationis Ondeck, theUK’sfastestgrowingsailchartercom- News fromOndeck,Antigua For moreinformationontheVirginIslandsCharter A WaterIslandresident,heisamemberof As thecurrentPresidentofTexasSociety Originally fromKansasCitywherehewasaprofes- The VirginIslandsCharterYachtLeague(VICL)isa New DirectorforVirginIslandsGroup For moreinformationonBarefootYachtCharters& Various lubricants Various lubricants Primers andAntifoulingInternational Electric parts,batteries Anodes,Shaft bearings Filtration FLEETGUARD Basic spareparts Genuine partsYanmar&Tohatsu GOODS E-mail: Marina Pointe-a-Pitre97110 (filters, impellers,belts) [email protected]

Guadeloupe F.W.I. Scaffolding Vacuum cleanerforwater Diverse handtools Electrical tools High pressurecleaners150/250bars FOR RENT to excitinghands-onlearningvacations. spawned, fromfocusedseminarsatall-sailboatshows gravitated tothevarietyofactivitiesherefforts lives throughsailing.Nowthousandsofwomenhave sailing andempowerwomentotakechargeoftheir women’s programsin1990toattractmorewomen once took. Portsmouth, UK—thesamerouteasNelsonhimself via theAzorestoHistoricNavalDockyardof Nelson’s Dockyard,AntiguaonMay6thandwillsail Farr 65sfortheAtlanticChallenge.Theboatsleftfrom our otherapprentices.” see theresultsofhardworkputinbyNickeyand apprenticeships weofferhereandaredelightedto push toskipperherownvessel.Weareproudofthe will takeonthechallengeoflearningtoswimand not oftenyoufindayoungwomanontheislandwho commented, “Nickeyisveryambitiousanddriven.It ing thecompany’svessels. dard thatmeansshewillsoonbecapableofskipper- has learnttoswimproficientlyandissailingastan- had notbeenaboardasailboat.Ayearlater,Nickey gramme. Priortojoining,shewasunableswimand the pastyearaspartofcompany’straineepro- to Portsmouth,UK.NickeyhasworkedwithOndeckfor time: completingtheAtlanticChallengefromAntigua on experience,isembarkingachallengeoflife- non-sailor andfollowingayearoftraininghands- Emmanuel, 23,joinedOndeckinMarch2007asa success ofoneitsmembers.Samara(Nickey) port toitstraineeschemefollowingtheastounding ness inAntigua.” and charteringwhilecontinuingtoexpandourbusi- we canoffercustomersloadsofgreatboats,training ing asimilaroutlookontheworldofboating.Together ing withOndeckandseeourtwocompaniesashav- Boatshed, said,“Weareveryexcitedaboutpartner- we runinAntigua.” and cruisingskillsatBVI‘Escapes’ Go, girls!Womencanhonetheirsailing Offshore SailingSchool’sCEO,DorisColgate,started BVI CruisingCoursesforWomen For moreinformationvisitwww.ondeck.co.uk. Nickey willjointhe32-strongteamaboardOndeck’s Liz Holder,headofOndeck’sAntiguanoperation, Meanwhile, Ondeckhaspledgeditscontinuedsup- Roger Bailey,SalesandMarketingDirectorat

TOHATSU

—Continued onnextpage OFFSHORE SAILING SCHOOL SAILING OFFSHORE JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9

Vessels up to 1500 tons 150' Length - 52' Beam - 13' Draft CONSTRUCTION REPAIRS MAINTENANCE For berth bookings for the tournament contact for the tournament contact For berth bookings ‘Sail & Classic Cricket’ Horizon Grenada a Charters of Grenada has launched Horizon Yacht is an annual event The Grenada Cricket Classics during the cricket and Charter a yacht to stay on US$150 per day for non- Skippers are available from For more information contact World Yacht Racing Forum The launch in January this year of the World Yacht The inaugural international Yacht Racing Forum As forum guest speaker and Chairman of ISAF The objective of the Forum is to bring together in one “It is so important to recognize and understand the The World Yacht Racing Awards will take place at For more information, visit event organizer. Prizes range from a Suzuki Jeep for Prizes range from a Suzuki event organizer. to cash priz- beats the current record, the angler that es and trophies. [email protected] for & Classic Cricket Package” seven-night “Sail and cricket 16th, aimed at sailors October 9th through island-hopping, tours fans seeking adventure, cricket, and live music. since it began in 2004. that has grown in popularity on the games between The focus of the weekend is plus the two clashes Grenada, Barbados and Trinidad of England and the West between cricketing legends Indies in the 20/20 matches. days exploring the afterwards spend three or four seven nights start at Grenadines. Charter rates for depending on the US$2,495 and go up to US$5,300, of six, this could mean size of the yacht. For a group Additional costs include as little as US$416 per person. at US$200 per person, the Classic Cricket Supplement airport, return transfer which covers transfers to/from party night tickets and to stadium, stadium tickets, All-inclusive packages food at two Classics parties. can be arranged. sailors or for those who just like to have someone on board to guide them through the islands. [email protected]. Racing Forum has generated a positive reaction from almost every sector of the yacht racing industry world- wide, in a clear demonstration that yacht racing deserves its own forum to debate the issues affecting the business of the sport. event will be held in Monaco on December 10th and 11th at the Grimaldi Centre. The Yacht Racing Forum is modeled closely on the successful Motorsports Business Forum and the two events will share the Grimaldi facilities in Monaco in December. Olympic Class Sub-Committee Malav Shrof put it, “Sailing is now the third biggest sport driven by spon- sorship. We need a forum to discuss how we can deliver more for our sponsors, for the media and for the public at large. It’s a great initiative for our sport, and if we can learn a thing or two from Motorsports, I think they can also learn something from us.” place the principal players in the industry: yacht racing sponsors and organizers, venues that host sailing events, marine suppliers, media, associations, sports marketing companies, teams, boatowners and captains. role of sponsorship in shaping the future of this sport, and we are pleased that so many key sponsors will be participating in the Forum to explain what they are looking for from the sport in the future,” said Will Morris, CEO of organisers, the Informa Yacht Group. the gala evening and will incorporate a review of the sailing year, at the same time celebrating some of the finest moments in yacht racing history. Awards will be presented to many of the unsung heroes of race man- agement and event organization as well as recogniz- ing the part played by host venues and race sponsors. www.worldyachtracingforum.com. Can you beat that? The Marina at Marigot Bay continues to support St. Lucia’s International Billfish Tournament — complimentary berths here are a perk for competitors E-Mail: [email protected] • Awl Grip boat spray and antifouling

Another option is for women who relish speed but is for women who relish speed Another option visit www.offshoresailing.com. For more information Fishing at Marigot Bay St. Lucia Game once again a sponsorThe Marina at Marigot Bay is 23 participating boats Last year the competition saw Association is the major The St. Lucia Game Fishing without the instructor aboard at the end without the instructor of the course. yacht. A take command of a power lack the skills to 9th Cruising getaway November Fast Track to Power Moorings women to learn aboard new to 15th allows while cruising the BVI. 46 power cats St. Lucia Billfishand the host marina for the popular berthing to all com- Tournament, offering complimentary Billfish Tournamentpetitors. The 18th annual International 14th. Teams willruns from September 11th through a 707-pound Blue Marlin. attempt to beat the record — that figure to double. and this year organisers expect swimsuit fashion show and An all-party lay-day with a for anglers and spectators. entertainment is scheduled Tel: + 590 590 911 011 Fax: + 590 590 919 652 • All Types of mechanical and engineering work • Bow thrusters – Stabilizers - Shafts and props

• 4 Docks : 120 tons – 200 tons – 650 tons – 1480 tons Seminole Marine, 97110 - Pointe à Pitre - Guadeloupe, F.W.I. • Carpentry and fiberglass repairs to the highest standards

With over 30 years experience, customers are assured of a complete range of quality services GUADELOUPE DRY DOCKS Continued from previous page Continued from The ten-day all-inclusive BVI package includes two package includes two The ten-day all-inclusive BVI In 2008, the Fast Track to Cruising Women’s Escapes In 2008, the Fast Track to Cruising Women’s Escape Weeks in 2008 include several dif- Weeks in 2008 include Women’s Escape comprehensive courses — Learn to Sail and Live Learn to Sail and Live comprehensive courses — five nights Aboard Cruising — three certifications, parties, most meals ashore, six nights living aboard, celebration, course while aboard, gala graduation a 24-hour mini-cruise textbooks, sailing gloves, and are based in the British Virgin Islands, June 18th to 29th are based in the British Virgin more than four women and October 15th to 26th. No each by an accom- are taught on a boat at a time, woman instructor. plished Offshore Sailing School ferent on-water retreats — three in sailing and one for retreats — three in sailing ferent on-water is the Fast Track to Cruising operating powerboats. vaca- popular program. These exclusive school’s most to Sail course a three- or four-day Learn tions start with by a 26s, followed immediately aboard Colgate Cruising Preparation or Live Aboard Bareboat Cruising to 49-foot sailing yachts. course on 44- — JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 textbooks, sailinggloves,anda24-hourmini-cruise while aboard,galagraduationcelebration,course ashore, sixnightslivingaboard,parties,mostmeals Aboard Cruising—threecertifications,fivenights comprehensive courses—LearntoSailandLive plished OffshoreSailingSchoolwomaninstructor. are taughtonaboatattime,eachbyanaccom- and October15thto26th.Nomorethanfourwomen are basedintheBritishVirginIslands,June18thto29th course on44-to49-footsailingyachts. Bareboat CruisingPreparationorLiveAboard aboard Colgate26s,followedimmediatelybya tions startwithathree-orfour-dayLearntoSailcourse school’s mostpopularprogram.Theseexclusivevaca- operating powerboats.FastTracktoCruisingisthe ferent on-waterretreats—threeinsailingandonefor — The ten-dayall-inclusiveBVIpackageincludestwo In 2008,theFastTracktoCruisingWomen’sEscapes Women’s EscapeWeeksin2008includeseveraldif- Continued frompreviouspage GUADELOUPE DRY DOCKS With over30yearsexperience,customersareassuredofacomplete rangeofqualityservices • Carpentryandfiberglassrepairs tothehigheststandards Seminole Marine,97110-Pointeà Pitre-Guadeloupe,F.W.I. • 4Docks:120tons–2006501480 • Bowthrusters–Stabilizers-Shaftsandprops • AllTypesofmechanicalandengineeringwork Tel: + 590 590 911 011 Fax: + 590 590 919 652 Tel: +590911011Fax: 590919652 entertainment isscheduledforanglersandspectators. An all-partylay-daywithaswimsuitfashionshowand and thisyearorganisersexpectthatfiguretodouble. attempt tobeattherecord—a707-poundBlueMarlin. runs fromSeptember11ththrough14th.Teamswill petitors. The18thannualInternationalBillfishTournament Tournament, offeringcomplimentaryberthingtoallcom- and thehostmarinaforpopularSt.LuciaBillfish 46 powercatswhilecruisingtheBVI. to 15thallowswomenlearnaboardnewMoorings Fast TracktoPowerCruisinggetawayNovember9th lack theskillstotakecommandofapoweryacht.A of thecourse. without theinstructoraboardatend The St.LuciaGameFishingAssociationisthemajor Last yearthecompetitionsaw23participatingboats The MarinaatMarigotBayisonceagainasponsor St. LuciaGameFishingatMarigotBay For moreinformationvisitwww.offshoresailing.com. Another optionisforwomenwhorelishspeedbut • AwlGripboatsprayandantifouling E-Mail: [email protected] competitors a perkfor berths hereare complimentary Tournament — Billfish International St. Lucia’s to support continues at MarigotBay that? TheMarina Can youbeat www.worldyachtracingforum.com. ing thepartplayedbyhostvenuesandracesponsors. agement andeventorganizationaswellrecogniz- presented tomanyoftheunsungheroesraceman- finest momentsinyachtracinghistory.Awardswillbe sailing year,atthesametimecelebratingsomeof the galaeveningandwillincorporateareviewof CEO oforganisers,theInformaYachtGroup. looking forfromthesportinfuture,”saidWillMorris, participating intheForumtoexplainwhattheyare and wearepleasedthatsomanykeysponsorswillbe role ofsponsorshipinshapingthefuturethissport, companies, teams,boatownersandcaptains. marine suppliers,media,associations,sportsmarketing sponsors andorganizers,venuesthathostsailingevents, place theprincipalplayersinindustry:yachtracing think theycanalsolearnsomethingfromus.” and ifwecanlearnathingortwofromMotorsports,I the publicatlarge.It’sagreatinitiativeforoursport, deliver moreforoursponsors,themediaand sorship. Weneedaforumtodiscusshowwecan “Sailing isnowthethirdbiggestsportdrivenbyspon- Olympic ClassSub-CommitteeMalavShrofputit, Grimaldi facilitiesinMonacoDecember. Business Forumandthetwoeventswillshare is modeledcloselyonthesuccessfulMotorsports 11th attheGrimaldiCentre.TheYachtRacingForum event willbeheldinMonacoonDecember10thand the businessofsport. deserves itsownforumtodebatetheissuesaffecting wide, inacleardemonstrationthatyachtracing almost everysectoroftheyachtracingindustryworld- Racing Forumhasgeneratedapositivereactionfrom [email protected]. board toguidethemthroughtheislands. sailors orforthosewhojustliketohavesomeoneon can bearranged. food attwoClassicsparties.All-inclusivepackages to stadium,stadiumtickets,partynightticketsand which coverstransfersto/fromairport,returntransfer the ClassicCricketSupplementatUS$200perperson, as littleUS$416perperson.Additionalcostsinclude size oftheyacht.Foragroupsix,thiscouldmean US$2,495 andgouptoUS$5,300,dependingonthe Grenadines. Charterratesforsevennightsstartat afterwards spendthreeorfourdaysexploringthe Indies inthe20/20matches. between cricketinglegendsofEnglandandtheWest Grenada, BarbadosandTrinidadplusthetwoclashes The focusoftheweekendisongamesbetween that hasgrowninpopularitysinceitbegan2004. and livemusic. fans seekingadventure,cricket,island-hopping,tours October 9ththrough16th,aimedatsailorsandcricket seven-night “Sail&ClassicCricketPackage”for [email protected] es andtrophies. the anglerthatbeatscurrentrecord,tocashpriz- event organizer.PrizesrangefromaSuzukiJeepfor For moreinformation,visit The WorldYachtRacingAwardswilltakeplaceat “It issoimportanttorecognizeandunderstandthe The objectiveoftheForumistobringtogetherinone As forumguestspeakerandChairmanofISAF The inauguralinternationalYachtRacingForum The launchinJanuarythisyearoftheWorldYacht World YachtRacingForum For moreinformationcontact Skippers areavailablefromUS$150perdayfornon- Charter ayachttostayonduringthecricketand The GrenadaCricketClassicsisanannualevent Horizon YachtChartersofGrenadahaslauncheda Horizon Grenada‘Sail&ClassicCricket’ For berthbookingsforthetournamentcontact CONSTRUCTION REPAIRSMAINTENANCE 150' Length-52'Beam13'Draft Vessels upto1500tons

JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 ARBOUR 284 495-5685

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Fax: 284 495-5706 ACHT Y VHF Ch: 16 Full Service Marina Facility Marina Facility Full Service during hurricane season. LEAVE YOUR BOAT LEAVE YOUR BOAT Web: www.vgmarina.biz ORDA G located within convenient walking distance. IN OUR CARE THIS SUMMER IN OUR CARE 284 495-5318

Tel: 284 495-5500 IRGIN laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all inlaundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice,fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vesseloffering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your Our facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprisesOur facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda a pristine and relaxing environment. BVI Customs and immigration chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone andchandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, V Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket, a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage spacea 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage / Caribbean Islands Magazine and the CTO recognized the Marine Park for meeting its main and the CTO recognized the Marine Park for meeting Continued from previous page Continued from Bonaire Marine Park Honored The Bonaire National Marine Park has received the Islands Magazine “Economists think tourism can continue to grow into infinity,” he added. “But we “Economists think tourism can continue to grow into actively managed and self- The Bonaire National Marine Park is one of the few Dr. Suzuki, in part, blamed unchecked growth and unrealistic economic expecta- Dr. Suzuki, in part, blamed unchecked growth and unrealistic “The twin crises of ecological degradation and falling oil supplies will have massive degradation and falling oil supplies will have massive “The twin crises of ecological Environmentalist Addresses Tourism Conference Environmentalist Addresses Conference on Sustainable Tourism, held from April At the 10th Annual Caribbean The site, 25 miles east of the capital San Juan, is the most important nesting beach capital San Juan, is the most important nesting beach The site, 25 miles east of the After years of controversy, The Trust for Public Land purchased the property from The Trust for Public Land purchased the property from After years of controversy, The new San Miguel Natural Reserve on the north coast of Puerto Rico, in the areaThe new San Miguel Natural As a result of Majoros’ efforts, the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico permanently permanently of Puerto Rico Majoros’ efforts, the Commonwealth As a result of According to Environment News Service, plans were in the works to build 1,025 plans were in the works Environment News Service, According to Reporter James Diamond notes that scientists hope the station will help them bet- NOAA chose Little Cayman as one of four international locations for such stations, The station, a joint project between the US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Climate Station for Caymans A weather and oceanographic monitoring station being installed off the coast of The Marine Park includes 6,450 acres of extensive coral reefs, sea-grass and man- Bonaire’s Marine Park covers more than reefs — critical mangrove ecosystems are also protected have to realize that nothing can grow forever. This unchecked growth only acceler- have to realize that nothing can grow forever. This unchecked ates us on a suicidal path.” for developing a sustainable funded marine protected areas in the world. It was cited needs and community tourism model where conservation management, tourism benefits are balanced. tions for the threat the Earth faces today. “Unfortunately, economists believe econo- tions for the threat the Earth faces today. “Unfortunately, he said. “They can’t. With mies can grow forever to meet this population’s needs,” how much is enough? Are we that belief system we must eventually ask ourselves, happier with more stuff?” for 2008. The Marine Park Tourism Organization (CTO) Sustainable Tourism Award the 10th Annual Caribbean received the award during a special presentation at Conference on Sustainable Tourism, held in May. repercussions for all countries, but none more so than those of the Caribbean and repercussions for all countries, but none more so than the challenges facing the especially the tourism industry,” said Suzuki. He cited the heaviest carbon footprint airline industry in the coming years. “Air travel leaves fuel prices are already having among all modes of transportation and skyrocketing explosive effects,” he said. 28th through May 1st in the Turks & Caicos Islands, Dr. David Suzuki opened the Turks & Caicos Islands, Dr. David Suzuki opened 28th through May 1st in the before a capacity crowd, which included heads of state event as its keynote speaker Organization (CTO) member countries. Dr. Suzuki from various Caribbean Tourism not sacrifice the future for short-term economic gain. challenged these leaders to for the endangered leatherback sea turtle in Puerto Rico, according to the US Fish sea turtle in Puerto Rico, according to the US Fish for the endangered leatherback nesting habitat for other sea turtle species as well. and Wildlife Service, and provides of beachfront, near-shore coral reefs, one of the region’s It includes more than a mile was and the remnants of a 19th century hacienda that last unspoiled dune systems, used for sugar cane production. Juaza, Inc. in August 2007 for US$12.5 million and conveyed the property to the for US$12.5 million and conveyed the property to Juaza, Inc. in August 2007 for its permanent protection as a natural reserve. Commonwealth of Puerto Rico known as the Northeastern Ecological Corridor, includes 212 acres of inter-tidal and Ecological Corridor, includes 212 acres of inter-tidal known as the Northeastern 14 federally listed threatened and endangered species. emergent wetlands that benefit protected the wetland complex in 2007 by designating it as the San Miguel the San Miguel by designating it as wetland complex in 2007 protected the Natural Reserve. residential units, a 250-room resort/casino, a 175-unit hotel/casino, and two golf a 175-unit hotel/casino, a 250-room resort/casino, residential units, the resort’s pro- concern about there were lawsuits and widespread courses. But possible harm to of wetlands and limited water resources, destruction posed use of habitats. endangered species’ — ter understand the connection between changes in atmosphere, changes in the ocean and changes in fish and coral populations across the region. They also want to learn more about how longer-term climate variability will impact the structures of coral reefs, and whether increasing carbon dioxide emissions in the atmosphere will stunt skeletal development of marine organisms. which will continually measure temperature, winds, barometric pressure and ultra- violet and photo–synthetically active radiation around Little Cayman’s shallow reefs. Administration and the Central Caribbean Marine Institute, is expected to be fully functional by the end of the year. Little Cayman will provide useful information about how climate change is affecting coral reefs, as well as better information about storm threats. grove ecosystems, and excels in the protection of its natural wonders. In addition, it has eliminated destructive practices such as anchoring and spearfishing, and Bonaire’s healthy and diverse reefs now support a variety of non-destructive tourism activities whose impacts are carefully monitored by the park. visit the park each year and it is routinely listed in the top five destinations for the Caribbean. Admission fees, commercial and private moorings, donations and grants account for the park’s funding. objective: to maintain and restore the health and biological diversity of Bonaire’s objective: to maintain and restore the health and biological More than 38,000 visitors reefs while promoting non-destructive tourism activities. SHAW JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12

would liketothanktheBVITourismBoardforalltheir affected becausewecouldonlystaytwonights.We Our intendedBritishVirginIslandsprogramwas ered the90milesunderrathercomfortableconditions. and gaveusanextranightfreeofcharge. squalls. MarinaFortLouisunderstoodthesituation for theBVIdueto35-knotwindsgusting40in side. Theorganizerdecidedtopostponethedeparture the secondeveningmadeusforgetweatherout- ation atMarinaFortLouis.Thewine-tastingpartyon in SaintMartinandenjoyedtwonights’restrelax- sail underdeterioratingweatherconditions.Wearrived ing tookplacethesecondday. Regatta wasorganizedandsotherally’sfirstprizegiv- the eveningcocktailparties.ARadio-ControlledLasers know eachotheroverafewglassesofMadrasrumat the welcomewasperfectasalways.Peoplestartedto time andhehiscrewenjoyeditthoroughly. beautiful AmelSuperMaramu2000,joinedforthethird a goodshareofBritishcrews. Switzerland andFrance;inotheryearstherallyhashad two-thirds werecatamarans.Participantscamefrom Republic andCubaisformanyadreamcometrue. the milkrun”cruisingdestinationslikeDominican the DominicanRepublicandCuba.Discovering“off Guadeloupe toSaintMartin,theBritishVirginIslands, March 29ththroughApril19th,tookparticipantsfrom annual Transcaraibesyachtrally,whichranfrom adventure thattakesplaceeachspring.Theninth Guadeloupe toparticipateinanexcitinginter-island Rodney Bay,St.Lucia We leftforBVIwithanimprovingseastateandcov- The firstcrossingwasa190nautical-mileovernight At MarinaBas-du-FortinGuadeloupeforthestart, This year, out of 15 boats ranging from 38 to 53 feet, This year,outof15boatsrangingfrom38to53feet, Bas Marina at gathered boats Fifteen boatsgatheredatMarinaBas-du-Fortin byStéphaneLegendre Beaten Track Off the Camaraderie Onda Blu

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place, inhabitedby200fishermen,wherewefound mile journeytoIslaBeata.Thisisanextraordinary fuel andevenfreemooringifroomisavailable. Lesser Antilles.HotelLasSalinas’dockprovideswater, potential stopforthosemakingthereturntripto were offtoLasSalinas,110milesawayandagood really startingnow. the secondpartofrally—adventurewas headed backtotheboats.Everyonewasthenreadyfor at alargesupermarketforprovisioningbeforewe ace. Astrollthroughtheoldcityculminatedinastop the NewWorldandChristopherColumbus’sson’spal- including avisittothefirstSpanishcathedralbuiltin of thenation’scapital,SantoDomingo,wasnext, ater formusicalperformances.Thehistoricalquarter Chavon, whichcontainsareplicaRomanamphithe- old reconstructedItalianmedievalvillageofAltosde visit toCasadeCampo’sluxuryresortandits30-year- entering thefantasticmarinaofCasadeCampo. southeast coastandanchoredatLasPalmillasbefore less than48hours.ManyarrivedearlyontheDR’s was caught.The300nauticalmileswerecoveredin Haliotis 38,atwo-metre(six-and-a-half-foot)sailfish allowed goodfishingandaboardFredericMartin’s weather changedradically.Now,idealconditions this beautifularchipelago. full threedaysinthejustlyfamoussailingwatersof help, hopingthatnextyearwewillbeabletoenjoya mojitos! The followingmorningweleftforthe70nautical- A shortstopatIslaCatalinaforswimmingandwe Three intensedaystoexploretheDRstartedwitha Between theBVIandDominicanRepublic, Johnson Hardware Ltd. FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE TRANSCARAÏBES 2008 Fax:(758)4520311 Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners e-mail:[email protected] our first every boathadenteredthebayitwasdark.Timefor friendly! WearrivedonaSaturdayandbythetime ishing. Clearancewas,asusual,abitheavybutso Cuba’s beautifulbay. good, fast,windypassageandweenteredSantiagode Everyone waskeentodiscoverthisultimategoal.A we werealone! white sandybeach.Andforthefirsttimeinrally, border, offereditsspectaculartenmilesofunspoiled Playa LasAguilas,thelastbeachbeforeHaitian prepared —wonderful! we shareddelicacieswhichcrewoneachboathad our coming,theyofferedwhathadavailableand based attheDominicanNavypostthere.Tocelebrate cheap lobster.Weevenhadapartywiththesailors them issmoother. lighter thaninthewinterandpassagemakingagainst in MayandearlyJunethetradewindsarenormally be accomplishedinoneovernightsail.Alsonotethat stops isnevermorethan120nauticalmilesandcan Marina inJamaica.Thedistancebetweeneastbound — forexample,Ile-à-VacheinHaïtiandErrolFlynn and advicewithaccuratewaypointsisgivenforothers return journeyhavebeenexploredduringtherally, the LesserAntilles.Mostofpossiblestopson also convenientforthoseboaterswhoplantoreturn Caribbean orPanama.TheTranscaraibesitineraryis familiar withthearea. these optionsisgivenbytheorganizer,whovery Dominican RepublicandCuba.Informationabout Bahia LasAguilas. even inthemostremoteplacessuchasIslaBeataor are spokenatthevariousstops. any languageissues—French,English,andSpanish helps withclearanceswhenneeded,andassists this year)inportswheretheboatsdonotanchor. The entryfeeincludesdockageatmarinas(14days for threeweeks,discoveringunusualplacessafely. Caribbean sailingevent,hereareafewdetails. unspoiled anchorages…. Reina onCuba’ssouthcoast,enjoyinglobstersand more oftherallyboatsarecruisingJardinesdela call ofduty. cial thankstoReyna,whotookcareofusbeyondthe Many thankstotheMarinaSantiagoteamandaspe- apart fromus,justanotherwonderfulexperience. typical Santiagomusic.Therewerenotouriststhere las Tradiciones,aspecialplacewhereonecanlistento we decidedwouldgothenextdaytoCasade were allhavingsuchamarveloustimetogetherthat opposite themarinainbay,thatevening. ing eventoftherallytookplaceonElCayo,anisland Alliance Associationwasputonjustforus.Theclos- Santiago deCubaandabeautifulshowattheFrench us allinthemoodtolearnmoreaboutthiscountry. rally’s musicalparticipants,FredandJeanAlexis,put in Havana.AgroupofCubanmusicians,joinedbythe writer ErnestHemingwayatlaBodegitadelMediobar What SantiagodeCubamarinaoffereduswasaston- The lastlegtoSantiagodeCubanowawaitedus. Twenty-five nauticalmilesfartheralongthecoast, For moreinformationvisitwww.transcaraibes.com. Cuba canbeajumping-offpointfortheWestern Optional shoresideexcursionsareavailableinthe Each eveningthere’sahappyhourorcocktailparty, The organizersailsallthewaywithgroup.He The ideaisforagroupofyachtstosailincompany For thosewhoarenotfamiliarwiththisunique At thiswriting,I’mbackinGuadeloupe,buttenor Well, that The nextday,Sunday,featuredacitytourof mojitos should , alocalrumdrinkmadefamousbythe havebeentheconclusion,butwe Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 .com (hardly the normal as Committee Boat for Tivoli Aschanti IV (120 feet) and the staysail schoo- (120 feet) and And so finally to the prizegiving in t h own brand of music — what a jump-up that night was! the evening, held on the lawn by the Copper & Lumber Store, an original Nelson’s Dockyard building, with king palms swaying in the breeze by the stage, a large screen showing a selec- tion of the wonderful shots taken by t C N p s ti . Each yacht in the single-handed race . Each yacht in the single-handed Eleonora The day was rounded off with gig rowing If the sailing and racing was enthusiastic On the final day of the regatta, the Caribbean On the final day of the regatta, perception of an ideal single-hander) and the perception of an ideal single-hander) 6-inch Herreshoff smallest being the 18-foot Jade must carry an observer, who may assist in setting sails, but may do nothing further after this, unless there is an emergency. and sailing-dinghy racing in English Harbour against the backdrop of the elegant Admiral’s Inn where Edwardian teas were of course served with cucumber sandwiches. Edwardian dress was de rigueur even when rowing; the vision of ladies in wide-brimmed hats rowing gorgeous varnished tenders being a sight to wet the eye. The enthusiastic and lively youngsters had enormous fun rowing in sin- gles and doubles. and energetic, so was the social side of things. There were events every night with choices of venues, mostly offering something special, for example the Welcome Party with the band Itchy Feet, and the Sail Maine party serving complimentary delicacies such as Maine Lobster Chowder and copious refreshments. The Live Music Night at the Yacht Club enticed many musicians from different yachts to give excellent renderings. Singers from Coffee Roasters Single-Handed Race is held Coffee Roasters Single-Handed over a distance of outside Falmouth Harbour owner John six miles. As in the past, the magnificent Spenlinhauer made available expedition yacht this race as well as for the entire regatta; the this race as well as for the There were 28 sin- Committee was in luxury! largest yacht was gle-handed race entries: the the 114-foot being sailed to their optimum. But even so, to their optimum. But even being sailed Adela (108 feet) and , the 109-year- Altair Galatea (105 feet) and (105 feet) and Aschanti old yawl that won second prize in Vintage Class A Action aboard Such a major event requires months of planning, numerous sponsors and an army Such a major event requires months of planning, numerous To all owners and crews, a big thank-you for being with us. Race Three, known as the Cannon, is a beam reach seaward for six miles and a beam reach seaward for six as the Cannon, is a Race Three, known Canada, Northern Ireland, South Africa and the United States all contributed their Canada, Northern Ireland, South Africa and the United prizes. the many photographers present at the event, and myriad and the Classics Race of volunteers. Including members of the Classics Committee With so many helpers, so Committee, some 60 or more volunteers were involved. making specific personal much generosity making this event happen, I have avoided to make an exception in the references as there would just not be space. But I have case of Kenny Coombs, as none of this could have taken place without his amazing vision and energy. As Regatta Founder and Chairman, Kenny has been running the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta since 1988, and we are all greatly indebted to him. —Continued on next page of the gaff schooners of the gaff schooners ners plenty of room has to be allowed at the marks, not just for larger yachts but also for not just for larger yachts has to be allowed at the marks, plenty of room the smaller ones. the Smaller yachts start first, to be overtaken later by reach back in, twice over. see What a spectacle this is, what a rare opportunity to thundering J’s and others. the ultimate! Upon completing the course, yachts then such yachts being sailed to Jol to slowly pass the Antigua Slipway balcony where join the Parade of Classics the and gives a very erudite commentary. Crews line Byerley announces each yacht of eccentric but beautiful outfits, as crowds rails, often in uniform or wonderfully at Catherine’s Café. spectators cheer and sip champagne (1889) Thalia to the 24-foot locally Adela ANTIGUA CLASSIC YACHT REGATTA 2008 CLASSIC YACHT ANTIGUA “match racing”, along with the likes Ranger Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Yacht Barefoot • Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop • Mechanical & Electrical Repairs • Vehicle Rentals • Raymarine Electronics • Ice & Water • Fibreglass Repairs • Island Tours • Refrigeration Work • Quiksilver Surf wear • On-site Accommodation • Laundry • Showers • Wi-Fi / Internet Café & Bar • Restaurant • Diesel & Propane • Surftech Surf Shop Book Exchange • • Boutique • Moorings • Hotel Reservations • Air Travel PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies and

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Velsheda . Here, nineteenth-century beauties such as

Springtide (1899) spread their sails alongside classically styled new builds. (1899) spread their sails alongside classically styled

Record Fleet a a Fleet Record LUCY TULLOCH LUCY

Galatea

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Any doubts about the competitiveness of the racing, however, were dispelled by the The philosophy of this event has always been that of a “gentleman’s” regatta. The philosophy of this event has always been that The weather for the event held from April 17th through 22nd was magnificent, The weather for the event held from April 17th through This year there were a record 71 entries, including the nine-strong fleet of new This year there were a record 71 entries, including As the 2007/2008 sailing season draws to a close, the most wonderful collection As the 2007/2008 sailing season draws to a close, the

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Feast for the Eyes the Feast for sight of the J-Class boats Aggressive racing is discouraged and protests are really frowned upon. After all, each and every yacht, no matter how large or small, is the “apple of the owner’s eye” and while everyone wishes his or her vessel to do as well as possible, it is not at the risk of damage. except on Day Four when racing was cancelled due to a total lack of wind, if not rain. except on Day Four when racing was cancelled due to days’ racing, this was per- After somewhat strenuous sailing during the first three haps not totally unwelcome. Dragons from Antigua’s Harmony Hall Yacht Club, and seven Carriacou Sloops, Dragons from Antigua’s Harmony Hall Yacht Club, that sailed up from the some which are based locally in Antigua and others UK, South Africa, the USA, Grenadines. Other entries came from Europe and the St. Kitts, St. Barthelemy, Canada, and Caribbean islands including Grand Cayman, St. Thomas and, of course, Antigua. and restored sloop of classic yachts gathers in Antigua — some of the finest classics to be found any- of classic yachts gathers in Antigua — some of the finest where in the world, from the 147-foot staysail schooner JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 Winners Regatta Yacht Classic Antigua Antigua YachtClub. sics.com. Avisitishighlyrecommended. available onthewebsitewww.antiguaclas- year’s regatta(andthoseofpastyears)are — 2) 1) Big Classics 3) 2) 1) Small Classics SINGLE-HANDED RACE 3) 2) 1) 2) 1) Classic ClassA 3) 2) 1) Vintage ClassB 3) 2) 1) Classic ClassB 3) 3) 2) 1) Dragons 3) 1) Classic ClassC 2) 3) 2) 1) Classic ClassD 3) 3) 2) 1) Spirit ofTraditionClassA 3) 2) 1) Classic ClassGRPB 3) 2) 1) Classic ClassGRPA 1) Spirit ofTraditionClassB Vintage ClassA 3) 2) 1) Traditional Class 3) 2) Frank PearceisViceCommodoreofthe Full resultsandmoredetailsonthis Continued frompreviouspage Maggie B Galatea Springtide Tiger Maru Sunshine Havsornen Galatea Ticonderoga Aschanti IV Eleonora Aschanti IV Thalia Altair Heron Kate Juno Whitehawk Halfmoon Jolly Compass Point Mistress Lone Fox Radha Isis ofBosham Meggie Alice ofPenrhyn Rainbow Gaia Ranger Velsheda Moonshadow Winsome Sunshine Iris J Springtide Calypso Wild Horses Jambalaya Ocean Nomad Genesis Pasha Patriot 2008 , 2006MylneGaffCutter60’,PhillipWalwyn,St.Kitts-5,2,3;10 , ThomasMuller,Germany-2,4;12 , 2007SeanMcMillianSpiritsloop100’,SimonFry,Lichtenstein-5/DSQ,3,3;11 , 2003NatBenjaminstaysailschooner65’,ScottDibiaso,WestTisbury,Massachusetts,USA-1,1;3 , 1961BruceKing5.5msloop32’,DanielThomas,EnglishHarbour,Antigua-4,2,3;9 , 1931WFifegaffschooner108’,JoePytka,EnglishHarbour,Antigua-1,1; 3 , 2003JohnAldengaffschooner52’,Nigel&BonnieBower,Camden,Maine,USA-3,5;11 (OneDesign-9Boats) , 1998DavidFrankcutter55’,LaurancePringle,Chester,NovaScotia,Canada - 4/DNF,2,3;9 , 1889Wanhillgaffcutter45’,IvanJeffries,Chichester,Suffolk,UK-2,2;6 , 2002BruceKingsloop70’,IraConn,FalmouthHarbour,Antigua-2,3,2;7 , 1964yawl64.4’,JulienDobson,GreatBritain-1,2,2;5 , 1964Bermuda30ketch30’,MichaelShaw,Thornbury,Ontario,Canada-3,2/RDG,3;8 , 2003Stevens/BurgessJ-Classsloop136’,AlisterLait-2,2;6 , yawl72’,JuddTinius , 1899Nygrenyawl67’,JuddTinius,EnglishHarbour,Antigua-6/DNS,1,2;9 , 2005AlwynEnoeCarriacougaffsloop40’,AlexisAndrews,St.Pauls,Antigua - 1,2;4 , 1976JohnAldencutter30’,RegMurphy,Falmouth,Antigua-1,1;3 , 1930ShermanHoytgaffschooner60’,GlenMcCormick,StockIsland,Florida, USA-3,3;9 , 2000Herreshoffgaffschooner120’,PerasLtd,Douglas,IsleofMan-1,1;3 , 1979Cornishcrabber30’,PeterHutchinson,UK-2,3,4;9 , 1957RobertClarkyawl62’,IraEpstein,Gustavia,StBarthelemy-2,1,1;4 , 1990CherubiniKetch44’,DonWard-3,1;7 , 1934CNicholsonJ-Classsloop130’,TarbatInvestmentsLtd.-1,1;3 , schooner63’,FrankBlair , sloop41’,KathyLammers , 1958PhilipRhodessloop41’,HansLammers,StJohns,Antigua-1,2;4 , MichaelCotter,Ireland-4,3,5;19 , sloop24’,PeterLucas , 1968DavidBoydSloop24’,JolByerley,EnglishHarbour,Antigua-2,3,2;7 (CSA-8Boats) , sloop37’,JulienDavies , 1937ToreHolmcutter521/2’,NILangereis,Wassenaar,Netherlands-2,4,3; 9 , 2002Carriacouschooner65’,JeffreyStevens,TheGrenadines,StVincent-3, 5,1;9 , 1978BruceKingketch103’,PeterDeSavary,England-3,3/RDG;9 , 1954HenryGruberstaysailschooner105’,AschantiLtd,Vaduz,Lichtenstein-2,2;6 , schooner114’,KarlPeterEbner , 1936LFHerreshoffketch72’,ScottFrans,Riverside,Connecticut,USA-1,2, 1;4 , 1998W76Classsloop76.3’,DonaldTofias,Newport,RI,USA-1,1;3 (CSA-17Boats) , 1966BillTripyawl41’,EdwardBaretto,HodgesBay,Antigua-2,3;7 (CSA-9Boats) (CSA-6Boats) (CSA-6Boats) , 2008AlwynEnoeCarriacousloop40’,ToddOrrell/EliFuller-2,3;7 (CSA-4Boats) (CSA-5Boats) (CSA -3Boats) , 1969Nicholsoncutter45ft,JamesChild,Godshill,IsleofWight,England-5,3,3;11 , PoulHojJensen,Denmark-1,1;5 (CSA-8Boats) , 1991LyleHesssloop32’,AndrewHazell,Wrekin,Telford,UK-1,1;3 (CSA-7Boats) (CSA-5Boats) (CSA-5Boats) (CSA-3Boats)

TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM begins at40!’ Above: Springtide advertisingthefactthat‘life Center: sics onthewater work with71pricelessclas- Adela’s Right: Keepingalookouton Jade , butbothlookfabulous! bowsprit—serious Velsheda dwarfs

TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM LUCY TULLOCH JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15

TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM crossed Race Two’s finish line just six seconds ahead , Ranger The two Js stayed within a few boat lengths of each other during all three races. The two Js stayed within a few boat lengths of each other After some two hours of racing

Gaia after- taking . At Antigua, Ranger Velsheda’s and the sloop built in 1933 and Velsheda . The two J boats com- . The two J boats Adela on the final leg when she had Ranger Velsheda, and Ranger and it was his formidable knowledge on elapsed as well as corrected time. on elapsed as well as corrected — a 2004 replica of the 1937 original — a 2004 replica of the 1937 across the finish line in Antigua three across the finish line in Antigua magazine’s David Glenn wrote: “After magazine’s David Glenn . by six seconds across one race’s finish line,

Velsheda Ranger Ranger Ranger

hung on well and if she hadn’t made an odd tac- hung on well and if she hadn’t Velsheda

, [the owner] has a yacht that over a windward/ , [the owner] has a yacht

Velsheda Karl James is among the most famous of Antiguan sail- Yachting World Thanks to Bob Williamson in Antigua for information used Thanks to Bob Williamson in Antigua for information used There has been an explosion of interest in J Class There has been an explosion of interest in J Class Some of the best racing at this year’s Antigua Classic best racing at this year’s Some of the Although During the 1930s, ten J Class yachts were built to race During the 1930s, ten J Class Legend Lives at Antigua at Lives Legend extensive mods to lighten and re-distribute weight inextensive mods to lighten Ranger leeward course is now faster than leeward course is now faster For reasons known only to themselves, For reasons known only to ors. The multi-time Caribbean Laser champion has repre- and sented Antigua & Barbuda once at the Pan Am games twice in Olympic sailing events. He’d signed on as tacti- cian aboard where the courses comprise predominantly reaching legs,where the courses comprise Velsheda of the second race she couldtical error on the final beat have beaten guard failed to cover something she’d helda three to four boat length advantage, from the start.” three second places. to of local wind conditions that gave his boat the chance beat rebuilt in 1997, won all three races, with rebuilt in 1997, won all three times, on corrected time in this report. yachts, and the J Class Association (www.jclassyachts. com) has issued a definitive list of J yachts from history that can be built as replica new builds under their rules. at Antigua is sure to see more of these magnificent vessels future Classics having begun the final attack from far behind. Karl teach- the es groups of very lucky youngsters how to sail at who Antigua Yacht Club. Nobody is turned away — kids can’t afford the training can apply to get it free. Yacht Regatta was seen during the battles between the J was seen during the battles Yacht Regatta Class sloops in the America’s Cup. — beat in Spirit of Tradition Class A. in Spirit of Tradition Class

peted with the staysail schooner peted with the staysail schooner J JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 NEWS REGATTA Watters ( and KATSSail,helmedbyAlecAnderson( ( ers AndrewWaters( first offwasagaggleofIC24s,withexperiencedrac- timed orderwiththelowesthandicapboatsfirst.So ing atNannyCayprovedpopular. entries overlastyear.Newcoursesstartingandfinish- joined bycruiserstomorethandoublethenumberof recovered fromthestormyBVISpringRegattawere Club. Itsawaresurgenceofinterestasracersrecently & RestaurantandorganizedbytheRoyalBVIYacht year onApril26th,sponsoredbytheVirginQueenBar bMobile QUIET CLEAN POWER The SpinnakerDivisionhadeightboatsstartingina The BVI’sannualPizzaPursuitRacewasheldthis Pizza PursuitintheBVI a long life in a bullet proof package. a longlife inabulletproof ina6literengineensures Generating 135hpat amodest2600rpm make theM135acost effectivemake choice withsignificantowner savings over alternative engines. pricing, Competitive engineandparts and exceptionally intervals low service fuelconsumption extended integral plate inthetoughest sealsgivingprotection oil cooler conditions. and specialcrankshaft temperatures for exceptionally reliable anddurable performance. Leak free operation is ensured by an heatexchange Highcapacity tubestacksensure equipmentwithcupro-nickel low component operating points ineithersingleortwininstallations. designed to permit awiderange ofoperating anglesandalsooffers easyaccess to allroutine servicing The M135isanexcellent repower choice. initsclass, packages Oneofthemostcompact ithasbeen new 'QUADRAM' combustion system andfullyclosedbreather system. costs.service It’s operator andenvironment friendlywithlow noiseandlow emissions achieved withthe This naturally aspirated engineboastspremium enginefeatures for reliability, minimaldown timeand PETRA COOPER They earnedtheirmozzarella!TheKATSjuniorsailorsontheIC24 showed truegritinthePizzaPursuitRace Black Pearl ) leadingoverjuniorsailorsfromtheRBVIYC ) andPhilPrevost( Conchquerer ) andColinRathbun Racing in Intac Sabre M135 Sabre ), Chris

nothing. DaveWest’sMelges32 pull awayagainasthebreezedroppedtoalmost Little ThatchandTortola,onlytoseethesmallerboats heels inthedifficultcurrentandshiftywindsbetween Beneteau First10R round upwithsailsflapping. in excessof20knots,causingmorethanonevesselto ker toLittleThatch,asquallcamethroughwithgusts Paradise on theheavieryachts.Onebyonetheyrealized Indians, howeverthedropinwindhadasevereeffect course aroundDeadChest,PeterIslandandthe carried ontotheenddespitebeingofferedatowin. The youngKATSsailorson Olympian Andersonmomentsbeforecrossingtheline. extreme measurestosuccessfullydistractyoungaspiring ishing comfortablyahead. lighter opponentswallowed,passingtherestandfin- way throughthedyingwindandkeptmovingasher knockdown offSeaCowsBay.Shehandilypickedher minutes afterthefirstboats,survivedadramatic now christened“WrigglesReef”. money untilrunningontoanunchartedshallowspot enjoyed theclosestfinish,ascrewof Jeff Williams’J/40 The Non-SpinnakerDivisiontookamorescenic In theIC24s, M65 M92B M115T M135 M225Ti M265Ti M300Ti M65 M92BM115TM135M225Ti M265Ti ). Onthelongrundownwindunderspinna- Racing inParadise Conchquerer Luxury Girl Gryphon Racing inParadise gave followedcloseontheir andGuyEldridge’s

Luxury Girl Jurakan bMobile Luxury Girl , starting36 and a run for its arunforits gamely gamely Intac took took

Call uson (284)4942830for adealernearyou. Calle Hennix’sSeaCart30trimaran, Racing ClassoftheCaribbeanBigBoatSeries. Budget MarineTrophyastheOverallWinnerin ual prizeswereawardedin38separatecategories. the Gunboatcatclass.Altogether,nearly100individ- which earnedtheAmericanAirlinesCupforwinning Racing, andJohnKwitek’sGunboat62, received theLaPerlaCupforwinningMultihull Racing Iclass.wasalsothedomainoftwo Bluff Trophypresentedtothewinnerofbig-boat Kelly’s TP52, held April27thtoMay3rd,isanewcomer:Benny overall victoryatStanfordAntiguaSailingWeek2008, all getoutonthewater.” Sue-Ellyn Eldridgewhogaveuptheirdaysowecould as welltotheRaceCommitteeofDianeLewisand to ensurethateachcompetitorreceivedsomething, Queen, whohavegenerouslydonatedsufficientprizes Eldridge, said,“IamespeciallygratefultoVirgin moments. TheYachtClub’sCaptainofSailing,Guy of pizzadonatedbythesponsordisappearedwithin his Hobie16toavictoriousfinish. on theirengines,leavingAndrewThompsontosteer would notfinishwithintheallottedtime,andswitched Paulista Racing VIfleet,wasPhilippeChampion’sJ/120, Barbuda InvestmentBankTrophy,forbestingthe winner oftheHenleyTrophy.WinnerAntigua& Best AntiguaYachtinDivisionA—wow! Yacht inDivisionA;andtheHightideTrophyas Racing V;theBeefeaterTrophyasBestCaribbean presented withtheAirCanadaCupforwinning James Dobb’sJ/122, received theGlobalBankofCommerceCup,was winner inthecombinedrankings,forwhichthey Trophy. IntheRacingIV,VandVIfleets,overall won PerformanceCruiserIandtheBigBanana Swan 70, respective fleets.TheyincludedStuartRobinson’s ker racingclassesreceivedawardsforwinningintheir standings inthosecombinedclasses. Trademarks Trophy;andtheS&S57, Marten 49, Price WaterhouseCoopersCup;RobertSwann’s Cup asrunner-upto Sports Trophyforfirst-in-class,andtheHelicalMoorings Comet 51, Performance CruiserIVchampion,GianfrancoFini’s for supremacyinthePerformanceCruiserIIIclass.The Cruiser IIIandIVranks,theBritishAirwaysTrophy Woodwork CupfortopboatinthePerformance two prestigiousawards,theChippyFineYacht Cup forthirdoverall. Fleet’s Swan601, 100-foot George David’s90-foot the moreimpressiveyachtstocompeteinAntigua: Clay Deutsch’sSwan68, The winneroftheLordNelsonTrophyrepresenting ASW2008: AndtheWinnersAre… At theprizegivingheldatNannyCay,alargestack First overallinRacingIVwastheAnteros36, A hostofotherDivisionboatsintheall-outspinna- David Cullen’sJ/109 . Apairofmultihullsearnedprestigiousawards: ICAP Leopard Stay Calm Bellissima Yani Panthera , whichwonRacingIIIandtheSanHall Aquarius , whichwonRacingIIandthe , waspresentedwiththeTemo Pocket Rocket . ShealsotookhometheCurtain Lost Horizon . AthirdRacingIyacht,Sam Pocket Rocket Rambler , receivedtheQuinFarara Chippewa —Continued onnextpage and MikeSlade’s . TheJ/122wasalso intheoverall True Look Charisma alsoreceived , wasgiventhe Lickity Split2 , which , which Easy , , JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 also landed the Top Boat prize of also landed the Triple Secret were Offshore Marine, Tournament sponsors For more information visit www.vigfc.com Guadeloupe’s First ‘Poker Run’ For its first edition, the Stéphane Legendre reports: based on the card “Poker run” competitions are POKER RUN RULES Absolutely no alcoholic beverages consumed until All participants must wear personal flotation devices. Drivers must wear kill-switch lanyards while boat No sitting on top of the seats or sun pads while boat Starts are by groups, based on speed. Medical/rescue personnel onboard at least one No passing the pace boat before the start flag Minimum separation of 100 feet fore and aft and 50 US$1000, based on total number of fish caught, with on total number of fish caught, US$1000, based over 55 $25,000 grand prize for dolphin 14 dolphin. The 66-pounder unclaimed. “We caught a pounds went Holley, “so on charter last week,” says and 78-pounder the tour- ones are out there.” In total, I know the big weight of caught 54 dolphin for a total nament fleet Awards Anglers and guests at the 1,197 pounds. a portion of the catch. Ceremony enjoyed and Premier Wines Yamaha and Yanmar distributors, is the second of the and Spirits. This Dolphin Derby Tournament series. The Budget Rent-A-Car Small Boat will be the 45th next event hosted by the VIGFC July 15th to 17th. Annual July Open Billfish Tournament, a royal flush! On May 3rd, Guadeloupe Poker Run was at Marina Bas-du- 19 offshore motorboats gathered They came from Fort in Pointe-à-Pitre to race. and, of course, Martinique, St. Lucia, St. Martin were ideal: flat seas Guadeloupe. Weather conditions and sunshine. navigates a carefully game. Each participating boat five checkpoints along charted course, stopping at envelope containing a the route to pick up a sealed was the following: single playing card. The itinerary Marina Bas-du-Fort, Sainte Anne (Club Med resort), Les Saintes, Anse Colas, Marina Bas-du-Fort. At the final checkpoint, the cards are checked in. During the gala banquet the envelopes are opened and the crew holding the best poker hand is declared the winner! the Poker Run is over. is underway. is on the plane. boat in every group. is dropped. feet side by side between boats on plane. —Continued on next page hin of the tourna- p , headed north, work- AM est dol The third time was a charm The third time

gg with the Top Angler and Top with the Top ielded the bi y Triple Secret For complete results visit www.sailingweek.com. For complete 13th Dolphin Derby Virgin Islands’ reports: Carol Bareuther fished the one-dayThirty-four boats and 143 anglers “We left Frederiksted at 7:30 school that yielded the biggest dolphin of the tourna- ment. “I saw him come up behind the boat and threw him a sprat. He went for it.” Tournament rules allowed for live baiting. ing our way towards St. Thomas,” says Holley. “Along ing our way towards St. Thomas,” then we’d see the schools the way, we saw birds and first school, three in the of fish. We caught five in the It was the third and final second and six in the third.” school that attention to the event’s 42nd regatta, which is sched- event’s 42nd regatta, which attention to the to May 2nd, 2009. uled for April 26th Carl three schools of fish provided as on April 27th Holley and Offshore at the 13th Annual Boat prizes respectively Virgin Islands Derby, hosted by the US Marine Dolphin Game Fishing Club. Holley, a St. Croix-basedtournament out of St. Thomas. won Top Angler and pock- sportsfishing charter captain, of a 38-pound dolphin.eted US$1000 with the catch , We Two Are One , snared the Northern Child , won the Gold Fleet prize for the , won the Gold Fleet prize for , was the recipient of the Peter Deeth Cup of the Peter Deeth Cup , was the recipient scored the Antigua Breweries Cup for Best Breweries Cup for Best scored the Antigua Continued from previous page Continued from Beluga V — Finally, longtime judge Arthur Wullschleger, who this Finally, longtime judge Arthur Heavies. These anglers caught the ten heaviest dolphin at the USVI’s 13th Annual Offshore Dolphin Derby Stay Calm Julian A, while its counterpart, Swan in Division 51, Sincock’s Swan B. In Cup for Best Swan in Division American Express Fear 60, Kent Mitchell’s Cape the Cruising Classes, Blue Whale and the Cruising I competitors, as top boat among Crowther 40 cat, Michel Teerlinck’s of the Inn Trophy as the leader earned the Admirals’ Jacob’s Sun Odyssey Multihull Cruising fleet. Carsten 49, year served as the jury arbitrator, was given the Jan year served as the jury arbitrator, Week’s vice- Santos Trophy, named for Sailing distinguished service to the chairman, for his long-time already turning their regatta. Race organizers are Bareboat Charter classes, and was presented with The Bareboat Charter classes, and the best of the best Governor General’s Cup as charter boats. DEAN BARNES JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 Left: Showthosehands!Playingcards,notspeed,determinethewinnersofthisfunevent Right: Second was Ludovic Claret,whonowqualifiesfortheMiamirun. Fountain 38manufacturedintheUSandownedby 78-foot wave-piercingtrimaranthatrunstwo moting theuseofsustainablefuels. break theround-the-worldspeedrecordwhilepro- Caribbean pitstopslastmonthduringitsattemptto [email protected]. the Caribbeanaremostwelcome! ing thePokerRunWorldTournextyear.Boatsfromall Organizers arehopingthatGuadeloupewillbehost- also anX’trême36,ownedbyXavierRemonnecq. 36, ownedbyArnaudAudebert.Thirdwas with appropriatespeedandsafetynotations. — A powerboatrunningonbio-fuelmadetwo Earthrace For moreinformation,contact The winnerofthisfirsteditionwas No boatsunder28feet. Strict speedlimitsincongestedareas. Written instructions/chartshandedoutbyorganizers Continued frompreviouspage ZoomsThrough In GodWeTrust, alocallybasedX’trême Golden Boy Earthrace Red Neck, isa , a

without theamazinglocalsupportwehavereceived.” record attempt.Wewouldn’thavebeenabletodoit to onlyloseadayismassiveboostforourworld can oftenresultinabacklogofnumberweeks,so high seasoninthecanalanddemandtogetthrough through thecanal,”saysskipperPeteBethune.“Thisis the PanamaCanalAuthorityforspeedingupourroute 12-hour transitonMay10th.“We’reallreallygratefulto through thecanalfor stop wasShelterBay,Colon,Panama. Earthrace’ globe. to www.earthrace.netandclickingonthe‘Whereis 1998 bytheBritish ing recordof74days,23hoursand53minutessetin Puerto RicoonMay4th,twodaysaheadoftheexist- and stoppingintheAzores,shearrivedatSanJuan, the world’smostenvironmentallyfriendlypowerboats. and hasanetzerocarbonfootprint,makingitoneof 540-horsepower Mercruisersexclusivelyonbiodiesel, You canfindoutwhere The PanamaCanalAuthorityensuredaswiftjourney Having setoutfromSagunto,Spain,onApril27th, Earthrace

Cable &Wireless SIMAX COMMUNICATIONS SIMAX Earthrace … cansherunoncoconutoil? Earthrace , which completed its , whichcompletedits team.Hernext isnowbygoing —Continuedonnextpage from theNoExcusesSailingTeaminFlorida. Manuel “Manny”Resano,aswellLeandroSpina with OptisailorcoachesGonzalo“Bocha”Pollitzerand Agustin “Argy”Resano,whoisheadinguptheclinic skill levels,frommediumtohighlevelsailors,”says clinic istoofferhighlevelcoachingawiderangeof teach athree-dayinstructionalclinic.“Theideaofthe through June18th,whentopinternationalcoacheswill Argentina, Canada,GermanyandtheUSmainland. Islands, theBVI,PuertoRico,Venezuela,Anguilla, 15 yearsofageareexpectedfromallthreeUSVirgin which startJune28inCuraçao.”Sailorsfromeightto tice fortheOptimistNorthAmericanChampionships, Cindy Hackstaff.“Ourregattaisagreatwaytoprac- participation markthisyear,”saysregattadirector 19th to22nd.“Wearehopingbreakthe100-boat Sailing Association-hostedregattaissettosailJune in OptimistsailingtheCaribbean. the regattathatlaunchedcurrentwaveofinterest Optimist Regatta,celebratingits16thyear,ishailedas The pre-regattaactivitiesbeginJune16thandrun This year’sSt.ThomasYachtClubandVirginIsland Carol Bareutherreports:TheScotiabankInternational 2008 ScotiabankInternationalOptimistRegatta JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19

AM First organized by the Northside First organized by the Northside The Annual Bastille Day Kingfish p and ends at noon, when the and ends at noon, when the beachside party begins. tourna- Sportfishing Club in 1987, the anglers ment last year attracted 243 aboard (including 34 junior anglers) cate- 63 boats. In one of many prize a gories, Nikolas Murdjeff, aboard in Waters Edge Sports boat, reeled the Largest Kingfish, a 32.54-pound- includ- er and took home prizes that ed US$2,000 in cash. activi- Tournament is one of many ties that celebrate French Heritage Week. Besides being a fun-packed day for the whole family, the Tournament benefits the Joseph Sibilly School, St. Thomas Rescue, The American Red Cross and The fis b i th a o a b S m (i 6 g W th e e To ti W d To S Th Tournament — the one-day inshore Tournament — that offers the fishing tournament attracts more partic- best prizes and other of its kind in ipants that any — will take place the Virgin Islands at Hull Bay Hideaway, St. Thomas, 5:30 on July 13th. Fishing starts at Ce rce esou ly R It’s Curaçao’s Turn! Heineken-sponsored regattas are famous through- This regatta will be surprisingly different, therefore the All events and races will be in and around the har- For more information see ad on page 17. For more information phone Monica Lester For more information visit www.jhycantigua.com. For more information Kingfish Tourney 20th Bastille Day Bastille Day Kingfish The 20th Anniversary out the Caribbean. Now Heineken Curaçao and Curaçao Sailing Festival announce the first Heineken Regatta Curaçao, which will be held November 7th through 9th. Curaçao, situated nicely below the hurri- cane belt, is the perfect spot to kick off the season. slogan: “Real different!” bor and bay of the historical city of Willemstad. All boats will be racing in the center of Willemstad and in the open sea in front of the city — what a spectacle! Family Resource Center, as well as providing college scholarships for students of French descent. at (340) 774-5206. Fami who would like to sail through the summer. to sail through the summer. who would like she sailed into fourth place at one of the reg- While the schools are on summer vacation, local Jolly Harbour Yacht Club members give Antigua’s Young Achievers some hands-on sailing experience Elethea, ular JHYC races. young people will be learning to sail their own boats at Jolly Harbour under the watchful eye of Jolly Harbour Yacht Club, who will provide free learning opportunities and safety boats on the water. Several sailing dinghies are now available for the project, and more are on the way. Local sailors and JHYC members were particularly happy to take delivery of a Sport 16 dinghy donated by Sunsail at Hodges Bay. This ensures that the JHYC Youth Programme will go from strength to strength this summer. JHYC is grateful for any sup- port by way of dinghy parts, professional training for local instructors, storage and catering. JHYC would also be very pleased to meet more young people Princess Margaret and Pares Secondary. Many have and Pares Secondary. Princess Margaret and repeat their learning experiences come back to encouraging keen racers, which is several are already some of of Antiguan crews. Thanks to for the future First 38 on board Rick Gormley’s the Junior Achievers who ico, to R r Continued from previous page Continued from Young Antiguans Go Sailing Sailing is fun, as demonstrated recently in Antigua For the official Notice of Race visit Chris Rosenberg of the US Virgin Chris Rosenberg of the US Virgin The Caribbean’s most competitive The Caribbean’s most competitive Caribbean One-Design For more information contact Cindy For more information Trophies will be awarded to the top five in each fleet awarded to the top five in Trophies will be by the Jolly Harbour Yacht Club Youth Development team. Eleven youths from the Junior Achievers after- school programme run by Neikeisha George, as well as several younger children, took part. This brings the total who have had free sailing experiences to well over 40. Schools represented include Antigua Girls, Antigua Grammar, Antigua & Barbuda Institute of Continuing Education, Clare Hall, Christ the King, www.tropicalsailloft.com or contact Cary Byerley at [email protected]. Islands has won this event for the last two years. Another sailor to watch out for will be Efrain “Fraito” Lugo of Puerto Rico, who has won more Rolexes than he has crew! St. Maarten sailor Frits Bus, who placed second last year, may change history as no St. Maartener has yet won that island’s most competitive sailing event. sailors will meet in St. Maarten at the sailors will meet in St. Maarten 7th annual Caribbean Keelboat and Championships on June 21st 22nd. Thirteen teams are already signed up, including competitors the USVI, from St. Lucia (Mike Green), the BVI (Emma Paul), Grenada (Robbie Yearwood and Mark Sillem Solomon), St. Maarten (Bernard Rico and and Robbie Ferron), Puerto Trinidad (Paul Amon and Donald Stollmeyer). Championship Hackstaff at [email protected] or Bill Hackstaff at [email protected] Canfield at [email protected]. For the Notice of Regatta and Registration Forms visit www.styc.net. and top three overall. Additional trophies include the overall. Additional trophies and top three Trophy, the Chuck Fuller Peter Ives’ Perpetual Sailor. The Award and the Top Female Sportsmanship Trophy will be Sea Star Perpetual the names of the sailors inscribed with team. on the winning — JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 to theforecastsandGRIBfiles:1520knots,seas want tomeetourfriends. Blanquilla’s notabadplacetobestranded,butwedid give ustheseasandwindwewantedfortwoweeks. front movingacrossNorthAmericastalledanddidn’t DR inacoupleofdays,butthatwasnottobe;cold hoped wewouldgetthedesiredweatherwindowto waters, goodsnorkelingandwhitesandybeaches.We for calmerseas. nights ofthatenroutetotheDR,sowedecidedwait than eighthours.Wedidn’twantthreemoredaysand passage isonly60milesandwemanageditinjustless on thebeamandeight-footseasbeam,but good, ifalittleintense.Wehadwindsof20to25knots Blanquilla thefollowingday.Thesailtowas believe Laurie’scallsignisnow“BuyPieGuy”! English-style steakpiesforsaleviaalocalbaker.I Laurie on around theCaribbean,RobertWiFiGuy,and regularly givescruisersweatherinformationinand we leftPorlamarsaidourgood-byestoCarl,who sail toIslaBlanquillawaitforaweatherwindow.As into theharborofJuangriego.Fromtherewewould came forustomoveroundthenorthofisland up witholdacquaintancesaswellnew,buttheday sailor’s vice),courtesyofRobertthe“WiFiGuy”. e-mails andothercursedinternetneeds(themodern new friends.Thisstopalsoallowedustocatchupwith a greatplaceforshopping,provisioningandmeeting land, wemadeourwaytoPorlamaronIslaMargarita, sailing westtoHaiti,JamaicaandCuba. our friendsChrisandTonyaboard Caribbean totheDominicanRepublic,theremeet Finally thewindowwehopedforarrived,according Blanquilla isabeautifulsmallisland,withclear We spentthenightinJuangriegobeforesailingto We spentlongerinPorlamarthanplanned,meeting Having leftPuertoLaCruzontheVenezuelanmain- Our planwastoleaveVenezuelaandcrossthe n a by PhilChapman Haiti: s n wasto tot Minshara Chri h e DominicanRepu san dTo who,asweleft,wasoffering leav e Ve ya ny boar nezuela andcrossthe d bl Waylande Waylander ic, t h

ere tomeet r A StepBackinTime befo before re facilities andthestaffthatrunit.FrankCastillo, friends aboard Dominican Republic,wherewewerewelcomedbyour 470-mile triptoCasadeCampoMarinainthe doing eightknots. third reefinthemainsailandnoheadsail,were the ten-footseasweregraduallybuilding.Wehad On theseconddayoutwehad25knotsofwindand first 12hours,butthentheweathersteadilygotworse. six toeightfeetdecreasing.Well,thatwehadforthe ‘We madeourwaythroughshallowwatersintoTHEmostbeautifulanchorage…’ What amarinathisis—outstandinginqualityof Nevertheless, afterthreedayswefinishedthe DESTINATIONS Waylander.

—Continuedonnextpage not tobemissed. marina doesn’tappearonmanychartsbutitisaplace charming localtown,isonlyashortcabrideaway.The and evenacinemawithEnglishfilms.LaRomana,the other shops,barsandrestaurants,aswimmingpool, facilities offuel,laundryandsupermarket,plusmany rent golfbuggiestogetaroundit.Theyhavetheusual Casa deCampocoversthousandsofacres;youcan us around,andtreatedasifwewereoldfriends. man inchargeofthemarina,welcomedusin,showed JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 ff e is idyllic, calm and protected with e is idyllic, calm and protected with g he anchora T The anchorage is idyllic, calm and protected with The anchorage is idyllic, calm and protected with French and Creole are the languages commonly used are the languages commonly French and Creole back in absolutely beautiful. “A step Ile-à-Vache is lovely views. Unfortunately, we arrived shortly after a lovely views. Unfortunately, we arrived shortly after a local woman had died. The coffin was being paraded around the anchorage in a motorboat from the main- land full of mourners, all wailing and screaming, throwing dust to the waters and, we later learned, some of them working themselves into a trance-like state, to such an extent that it took three people to hold them down. Spooky! We were glad it wasn’t hap- pening at night. —Continued on next page had to pay overtime. We were not happy about this We were not happy had to pay overtime. terms. told them so in no uncertain scam, and we of lads that surprised by the number here, but we were Jon, Carmar or Spanish. Samuel, Jon spoke English to help and genuine guys, were ready and KiKi, all nice outra- small cost, of course, but nothing fetch — for a anything was even ask for money; geous. They didn’t gratefully received. sure that, apart from the time” is a cliché, but I’m in the last 200 years. population, little has changed 20,000 people. This island is home to approximately water or sewage sys- There is no electricity, pipe-borne or roads, although there tem, there are no shops, cars walks everywhere to are two motorbikes. Everyone are the most friendly we’ve fetch everything. The people see us and we couldn’t walk come across. They loved to tagging along explaining anywhere without someone to go. what we were seeing and where Ile-à-Vache (Cow Island), at lower left on the map, is about eight miles (13 km) long and two miles (three km) wide Right: Ile-à-Vache contains many small villages, some of which have a schoolhouse

WWW.UN.ORG www.curacaomarine.com Our first question was regarding checking in to over-ripe bananas or stale bread. But these guys came over-ripe bananas or stale bread. But these guys came to welcome us and even bring us a gift, albeit a coco- nut. They said that if we needed anything, to give them a call (by name) and they would try and help. Haiti, and William, one of the boat boys, told us it wasn’t necessary if we were staying only a few days. However, come Sunday (the day before our departure), William brought the Customs man to us, for which we Our destination in Haiti was a small island a couple of in Haiti was a small island Our destination understood called Ile-à-Vache. This we miles offshore the fol- and safe anchorage. We arrived to be a calm our way about 1300 hours, making lowing day (Friday) beautiful waters into THE most through shallow while enter- on the port side of center anchorage. (Stay We were a north-to-south heading.) ing the bay on in dugout surrounded by young lads immediately trees. Our many years ago from mango canoes made put us on our the more touristy islands experiences in often just want to sell guard because boat boys there Safe dry storage with 24 hours security need- moved on to Waylander Waylander and Hauling capacity 45 tons and Catamarans up to 33ft beam. Chaser Curaçao Marine Curaçao New marine center presents the latest Dutch innovation in boat handling equipment. Email: [email protected] Phone: +(599 9) 465 8936 Fax: 465 8941 Continued from previous page Continued from After a few days After a few days We left Las Salinas at sunrise for our 200-mile sail. We stayed in Boca Chica for a couple of nights before Chica for a couple of nights We stayed in Boca - Long-term storage. AWLGRIP® indoor spray painting and many other services. We are located in the safe harbor of Willemstad.

— last stop in the Dominican Republic. ed a part for their depth sounder which was to be available in Santa Domingo within a couple of days, so waiting in this lovely, well-protected anchorage with its charming, unspoiled village along the shoreline was not a problem. After four or five days we pulled the anchor and moved west. Next stop, Haiti, the land of poverty, violence, political unrest and voodoo. moving west to an anchorage at Las Salinas, to be our moving west to an anchorage another marina, one not on our charts, at Boca Chica, one not on our charts, at another marina, a reef. location protected behind another beautiful yet fully up many facilities, some not They, too, have to Casa de although nothing compared and running, another one if you like marinas, this is Campo. Still, not to be missed. JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 the orphanage;wefeltalittleuncomfortableflashing orphanage. Wedon’thavemanyphotosofthetownor fiction televisionprogramme,DoctorWho. though wehadjumpedoutofa cockfighting arena.Itreallywasastepbackintime,as es, acoupleofschoolsand,alongsideonethem, more wealthy-lookingbuildingswerethefewchurch- market eachweeksellingfruit,meatandfish.The a chairorstooloutside,andapparentlytheyhave to speakof.Somepeoplehadbeansorriceforsaleon feet square,wherefamilieslived.Therewerenoshops the Caribbean.Thereweremanyhouses,maybe12 Bernard. Wow!Therearen’tmanytownslikethisin the hillsforamileormore. water ontheirheadsinfive-gallonjugsupanddown course: evengirlsasyoungtenyearsoldcarry carry theirwaterfromwells.That’swomen’swork,of life, although say “bonjour”.I’veneverspokensomuchFrenchinmy — eitherwashingormendingfishingnets.Allcameto lages haveaschoolhouse.Thepeoplewereallworking roofs andnofurnituretospeakof.Someofthesevil- through manyvillagesofone-roomhouseswithstraw along withus,tellingwhichpathtotake.Wepassed many tracks,everyhundredyardsorsoachildtagged Directions weren’taproblem.Althoughtherewere put onourhikingflip-flopsandmarchedonward. main town.Itwasatwo-hourwalkeachway,sowe farther roundthecoast. modern civilizationwefound,apartfromanorphanage and internetviasatellite—wastheonlysemblanceof ties, asmallswimmingpool,evenmobiletelephone with electricity,air-conditionedrooms,ensuitefacili- apart fromsomefruit,meatandfish).Thehotel— be broughtfromthemainland(asdoeseverythingelse, The hotelhasalargegenerator,forwhichfuelto started thehotelandwhatfacilitieswereavailable. had achatwiththeowner,whoexplainedhowhe some refreshmentatthehotel:beersallround.We — withoutovertimefees,welaterfoundout. VHF channel06forentryinstructionsandcheck-in takes careofvisitingyachtsandhecanbecalledon who startedbuildingthisproject20yearsago.Healso and surroundinggardensareownedbyaFrenchman Ashore isahotelalsocalledPortMorgan;the — We walkedonthroughthetowntoSt.Francis With tiredlegsandfeetwearrivedatMadame The nextdaywetookawalktoMadameBernard,the Our firstdutyafterdinghyingashorewastotake Port Morganisthenamegiventoanchorage. Continued frompreviouspage e-mail: Contact John Louis •876-715-6044876-873-4412 Caribbean, servicingyachts upto95'in length. The only100-tontravel liftinthispartofthe www.errolflynnmarina.com bonjour noerllnmrn.o • [email protected] isaboutallIknow.Thevillagers Tardis from thescience VHF Channel16 our feetandlegswerereallybeginningtoache.How with “our”variousvillagekidsattached.Bythistime humbling experience. faces lightupwiththegiftofjustamarbleeachwas some pencilsandballsforthekids.Seeingchildren’s things suchasmarblesandjigsawpuzzles,weleft staff, ChrisandTonygaveafewlittletoysplay- something Ipersonallycouldn’tdo. they manage.Thestaffheredoesanamazingjob, well laidout.Teachersarehardtofind,butsomehow and France.Theclassroomsforallgradeswerevery log firesusingsuppliesdonatedbytheUnitedStates the school.Inkitchen,allmealswerecookedover sell onthemainlandtoraisealittleextracashfund has itsownworkshopswheretheymakefurnitureto as sewing,metalworkandcarpentry.Theorphanage through theyear,educatingandteachingskillssuch and orphans.Thefewvolunteersworktirelessly an amazingjoblookingafterhandicappedchildren expensive camerasaround.Intheorphanagetheydo Our walkbacktookusalongthesameroute,still We saidourgood-byesandwishedgoodlucktothe Errol Flynn &BoatyardErrol Marina THE WATER THIS HURRICANE SEASON       i tc PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENTON Duty Free Zone inMarina Engine andPart Specialists 24 HourFuel Paint Sheds 100 Ton Travel-lift Full ServiceMarina h en ,  a ll mea Out ofthe Water Storage Upto95Feet l s werecoo OT NOI,JAMAICAPORT ANTONIO, Introducing the NEW k e d ov er ‘We walkedhandinwiththeacquiredchildren…’       next time. “dangerous” place,sowe’retold.Butmoreonthat boats foranearlydepartureJamaica,another love toreturn. come awaywithusbacktoEngland.Theydidask. two reallythoughttheymighthavetheopportunityto they werealittlereluctanttoleaveus.Ithinkoneor We thensaid acquired children,weallwentinforawelcomedrink. the prospectofsomecoldies.Handinhandwith gained alittlespeedwiththewaftingscentoffoodand were beginningtotire. feet aftalongthedeckofourboatonagoodday,sowe exercise, ofcourse,amountsto40feetforwardand pounds ofwaterontheirheads.Ourusualwalking these kidsmakeitIdon’tknow,especiallywithten Back onboardwehadanearlynightpreparingthe Ile-à-Vache, Haiti.Itreallyisamust-seeplace.We’d Arriving backatcivilization(thehotel)oursteps etuat Beach Bar&Grille Restaurant, 24 HourSecurityGatedMarina Open Air Market 1Minuteby Foot Depth Upto25Feet atFace Dock Downtown Nightlife Protected Harbor au revoir Navigating thegoodlife

tothekids—severaltimes,for  JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 Marmaris JUNE, 2008 Aarhus Genoa OGISTICS L

Palma de Mallorca Cherbourg La Rochelle Toulon ACHT Y

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BOOK NOW! Martinique ORLD Newport The market is confined to a certain area, but many Energy restored, we walked around some more. We Julio returned, having been unsuccessful in getting After lunch, we stopped for a photo op at El Morro, a W A constant stream of people going in both directions A constant stream of people at the border eral blocks, taking in the colorful scene. Then we founderal blocks, taking in the colorful and sat to rest a bit, anda bench by the town square a street vendor to refresheat an orange purchased from was going to go to get hisourselves. Julio, our driver, and said he’d meet us attaxi driver’s license renewed the fire station) in an hour.that spot (right across from the stream of people pass- We sat for a while, watching we drew a steady throng ofing. Obviously foreigners, vendors trying to sell us an assortment of goods. One woman had baby shoes and Dave just shook his head as he held up his big foot alongside the tiny shoes. The woman smiled slyly and pulled out men’s tennis shoes from behind her back! Haitians wandered beyond the boundaries and police would push them back if they didn’t go with just a word. We saw one policeman hitting a woman with a strap because she refused. A young man was walked away in handcuffs. By the end of the morning, though, the authorities often just ignored the transgressors, tired of trying to keep them within the market borders. I would imagine that a certain number manage to slip through and remain in the Dominican Republic. On the highway back to Luperón, there were several checkpoints. They just waved us through, but Julio says if there are any black people in the car, they will stop you and make everyone get out, and search you and the vehicle. stopped at a couple of auto parts stores and found the fuel pump Chris needed, so we bought that — our only purchase, other than fruit and drink. his license renewed — computers were down, there was a LONG line, so he didn’t wait. We had seen as much as we wished, so we headed back, stopping in Monte Cristo for lunch at the Coco Mar Restaurant. Right on the water, we sat outside where it was cool in the breeze. This area is a primary goat-raising area, so Chris and I both ordered goat. With it came salad, avocado, beans, rice and fried plantains. We were stuffed by the time we finished. scenic rock in the ocean, part of a national park. Then we retraced our path back to Luperón. Freeport St. Thomas Port Everglades MARTINIQUE

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W On the way there, in a tunnel through a small On the way there, in a for us, we saw rice fields, Encountering new territory I have never seenThe Haitian market was awesome. At the border is the Massacre River, which separates The market works by bartering as well as selling There are moneychangers to be found throughout The Dominican officials allowed us to walk out onto We walked up and down the crowded aisles for sev- Republic, my husband, Chris, and I had the opportu- husband, Chris, and I had Republic, my to be at the Haitian market. Up early nity to visit a marina at 6:00 Lander for a trip to the town of Dajabón. (I’m not usu- Lander for a trip to the town sunrise was magnificent.) ally up that early, and the on the border with Dajabón is one of three points on Mondays and Fridays, Haiti where, twice a week, there is an open-border market. — stagnant water? mountain, there was a smell we could see that the Sewage? No, pigs! As we exited, filled with fat, pink and truck in front of us was brown-spotted pigs. lots of goat ranches. Julio, onion and garlic fields, and land is not good for crops, our driver, says where the the rice is harvested, the they raise goats. Also, once those fields. goats are turned loose to clean such a melee of people, pushing, shoving, shouting,such a melee of people, pushing, hawking their wares andmoving in every direction, Men pulled or pushedlooking for the best bargain. loaded to the sky with wheelbarrows and carts 50-pound bags of rice, pasta, styrofoam plates and boxes, eggs, crates of chickens. Women carried sky- scrapers of eggs, clothes, boxes, crates and bags on their heads. There were boxes of chicks, live hens, bagged chickens (all parts included), sausages, hats, shoes, underwear, etcetera. It was a wondrous, fren- zied madhouse of activity. the two countries that share the big island of Hispaniola: Haiti and the Dominican Republic. There is a bridge spanning the water, but the riverbed is mostly empty or very shallow and, like the Mexicans at the Rio Grande, people simply walked across the at the Rio Grande, people simply walked across the river instead of taking the bridge. There is a huge arch on the Dominican side of the river and a gigantic gate that is normally padlocked, but stood wide open today. There was a constant stream of people going in both directions. items for cash. The Dominican Republic is an agricul- tural country, supplying eggs, chickens, rice, fruits, and vegetables of every kind. The Haitians bring man- ufactured goods, mainly clothing and shoes, but also small appliances such as radios and televisions, pots and pans, etcetera. the market, who exchange Dominican pesos for Haitian gourdes or vice versa. Images from the Bible of moneychangers being cast out of the temple flick- ered in my head. the bridge to look and take some photos. On the bridge were Haitian officials. Using English, Spanish and French, we managed to communicate with them a lit- tle and they allowed us to walk all the way across to say we had really been in Haiti. by Jacquie Milman by Jacquie RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES

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Above: People simple walked across the river to the market Below: I am the egg man Market Haitian Haitian Dajabón, Dajabón, JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 name onthebottom,soit’sa“signed”piece. prised —itwasquitegood.Sampsonevencarvedhis to townwiththecarvedparrot.Iwaspleasantlysur- an expensiveparrot.” earshot, IlaughedandtoldChris,“Thisisgoingtobe Bacardi whenwecameback.Whenwereoutof and hasnomoney.Heaskedustobringhimapintof himself, hemusedaloud,butneedspain-killerfirst us, buthedoesn’thaveanymoney.Hecoulddoit where hehadaboil.Adoctorneedstolanceit,told parrot rightnowbecausehisfoothurt.Heshowedus to leavethemforhim.Hesaidhecouldn’tcarveour figured hewould.Ifhadn’tbeenthere,I’dintended “Yes, doyouwantthem?”Iasked.Hedid,ashad tree. HeaskedifIwasthrowingthosepillowsaway. dispose ofsomeoldcushions,Sampsonwasunderhis and happy. which wasjuttingoutofhisbackpocket.Hehigh had blownthe$10wegavehimonabottleofrum, asked me,“Didyouknowhe(Chris)gotmedrunk?”He Sampson pulledupalongsideusonabicycleand locks bouncing. him the$10.Sampsonbegandancing,shortdread- resolve weakening.FinallyChriscavedinandgave continued hisnonstopbanterashesawChris’s but indicatedthattheparrotwouldbesmaller.He Sampson broughtthepricedownto$40altogether, at meandIshookmyheadno—that’stoomuch! much moreforthecarving.Fortydollars.Chrislooked told us,“I’mnotlookingforatip.”Chrisaskedhow working forasale.Hehelpedusloadourgroceriesand parrot forthelovelylady.Hewashilariousandreally a carving,paytherestwhenwepickitup,lovely no notlater,rightnow,leavemetendollarsdepositfor hasn’t botheredusbeforebutnowit’stime,talktome, song-and-dance numberforusabouthowhecarves, foot, undertheshadeofatree,carving.Hedidgreat named Sampson,aHaitianwhoisalwaysthere,bare- which readilybecameoneofourfavorites. Harbour Marina,hostsaweeklybarbecuenight, house. TheJibRoom,therestaurantatMarsh chase. Likemanyislandventures,itisinalittle where well-craftedwovenitemsareavailableforpur- away fromthewaterfrontisDarville’sStrawIndustries, our onboardentertainment.Onalittleroadleading my husbandChrisandItradedbooksvideosfor light! LocatedinacontainerisBuck-A-Book,where of restaurants,hotels,anairport,andevenatraffic large grocerystores,hardwareandmarinelots Nassau. Thereareseveralstoresandshops,twofairly Abaco andthelargestinBahamasexceptfor able here,too. Florida totheCaribbean,andcharteryachtsareavail- “off thebeatenpath”stopforyachtsheadingfrom extreme northeasternpartoftheBahamas.Thisisan GREAT Parrot inhand,wemovedon.Ashortdistancenorth A coupleofdayslater,Chriscamebackfromatrip A fewdayslater,whenwearrivedattheboatdockto The followingdayaswenearedthedinghydock, At thedinghydockwemetacolorfulcharacter Marsh HarbouristhemainsettlementonGreat # A R A I B E ' R E E island group,locatedinthe Abaco isthehubofAbacos M E N T 

 P A G     P D F                anchorage withawhitesandbeach;wecouldbecon- boring —flat,withpinetreesandnothingelse. Harbour, andSandyPoint.Thelandscapeispretty southern partoftheisland,goingtoCherokee,Little Treasure Caywasnoexception. Curly-tailed lizardsaboundintheBahamasand found CocoBeachBarandstoppedforrefreshment. of smallstripmallsandabeautifulbeachwherewe we rodeoutHurricaneWilmahere.Thereareacouple of MarshHarbourisTreasureCay.InOctober,2005, annual RegattaTimeinAbaco Sunset atMarshHarbour.Aswellasacruisingdestination,thisistheoneoffinishlinesinJuly’s Little Harbourisneat,though.Ithasasnuglittle We rentedacaronesunnydayandtouredthe ABACO GREAT The Bahamas: DESTINATIONS by JacquelineMilman 9780932265869. and fedthem. boat, checkingthingsout,soIgotsomemorebread following. Thenextmorning,threeofthemcametoour ducks sawitandmadeabeeline,theothersquickly I gotsomebreadandlobbedonepiecelong.Oneofthe behind us,butthepeopleaboardwereignoringthem. dow tomakethetripExumas. We anchoredtherewhilewatchingforaweatherwin- studio ofanAmericansculptor,RandolphJohnston. which youcanclimb.Thereisalsoamuseumandthe beach andthereisanoldlighthouseonthehilltopto tent thereforawhile.Itisonlyshortwalktothe Guide toAbaco abacos.com/cruiseguide orgetacopyof experience inGreatAbaco. joined insinging.Itwasafunevening—anothergood er boatwasplayingguitarandkeyboardwhileothers bread. WhenwearrivedatPete’s,acouplefromanoth- to leave,sowedelayeduntilIcouldgivethemsome Two oftheduckscamebeggingjustaswewereready and therewastobeajamsessiononeafternoon. a b f ducks sawita I go b d W studio o wh ollowin n oat, checking e ow toma Pete’s Pubisawell-knownboaters’beachhangout There wereduckspaddlingnearaboatmooredjust For moreinformationontheAbacosvisitwww.go- Pete’s Pubis T e anchoredt h d ic here wered t somebrea in

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he h m u d n c t e t a , Bahamas bySteveDodge,ISBN: Cruising JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 At Santa Marta, the only weather forecast we We crossed the mouth of Rio Magdalena, navi- Eventually we got to Cartagena in one piece. Lots The fin-type rudder fitted to the Bavaria has a The autopilot is still under investigation. Now back to sipping local rum! could helm the boat okay. They proved to be excel- lent crew and are still good friends. had was from NOAA, which is very global. The local guys and Guarda Costas thought that it would be okay, so the five of us set off for Cartagena. If the forecast had been bad, the weather was even worse. The first day the wind blew 30 to 35 knots with eight- to ten-foot seas. Interestingly, the second day gave us perfect sail- ing weather, although the NOAA forecast for each of the days had been identical. gable for 800 miles. If it was the Thames, you could sail up it across Wales and right past Ireland! of parties. Said goodbye to the “pirates”, who caught a bus home. (Can you imagine Cap’n Jack Sparrow catching a bus home?) lower bearing at water level. It had seized. We dropped the rudder in a boatyard here in Cartagena and the local craftsmen sanded the stainless steel rudder shaft and the plastic bear- ing until it was a smooth fit. Excellent now. at Renaissance Marina with Jennifer on the stern, preparing the at Renaissance Marina with Jennifer on the stern, preparing Sanjola Above: boat to leave Aruba Cartagena Below: Me and the ‘Colombian pirate’ crew at Club Náutico,

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y ARUBA TO TO ARUBA o u Having no autopilot, plus a very stiff rudder, made it too difficult Having no autopilot, plus a very stiff rudder, made it too We imagined that the port would be full of Harry Belafonte look- We imagined that the port would be full of Harry Belafonte It is a 450-mile journey to Cartagena from Aruba and we decid- It is a 450-mile journey to Wll books, the passage from Aruba over Well, according to the pilot d t th ltb k th f A b My first and only wife, Jennifer, and I sailed away from the My first and only wife, Jennifer,M Wind, sea and current join forces to make the trip from Aruba to Wind, sea and current join forces to make the trip from are up Cartagena a challenge — especially when the tradewinds for Jennifer and me to sail onward alone. Two “Colombian pirates” for Jennifer and me to sail onward alone. Two “Colombian and 31, ran off the beach took a liking to us. The two men, aged 27 ferrymen to a workboat in the Santa Marta harbour. They acted as take us ashore. We asked one to help us sail to Cartagena. The other pirate said, “I want to come, too.” Jennifer said, “Okay, then.” Then he brought his wife on board to visit; she was 25 and spoke perfect English. Jennifer said, “Why don’t you come along as well?” We liked all of them and felt that they were safe. They had never sailed, but the guys were experienced boatmen so I felt that they alikes carrying bananas on their backs and singing calypso alikes carrying bananas on their backs and singing home.” A music: “Day-o, day-o, daylight come an’ me wanna go ship I have banana boat was actually there: the biggest container Bananas” ever seen in my life, painted bright yellow with “Fyffes written on the side. blah, blah, blah. The first two nights were fine, and then the wind blah, blah, blah. The first two nights were fine, and then the auto- sprang up, 30 to 40 knots up the tail. All was well until hand all by pilot went tits up. Suddenly, I was driving the boat by Royal Navy myself. Jennifer was wonderful; she found what the on the pilot book called a “banana boat port”, Santa Marta, the bay. Colombian coast. We changed course and anchored in ed to do it in one hop. Three nights, easy for ex-Atlantic travelers, ed to do it in one hop. Three nights, easy for ex-Atlantic the Guajira Peninsula on the Venezuelan/Colombian border is the the Guajira Peninsula on the world. So we checked all the pansy fifth worst passage in the the Americans call a “weather win- internet weather sites for what off on January 28th, at the height of dow”. We found one and set had not sailed for over a year. People the tradewind season. We end goes in front.” Very funny. cried from the dock, “The pointy South of France seven years ago and are now in Cartagena, South of France seven years Colombia. Our boat, Tales of Cap’n Dicko: of Cap’n Dicko: Tales JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 —Continued onpage31 scope andre-wiredthefriedpart—forUS$25. replaced. Heretheycleanedit,putitunder abigmicro- Anywhere else,thatlittlethousand-dollar boardwouldbe the maincircuitboardformyHeart 200inverter. from myhundred-dollarbill.Thelistgoes on,including all differentandnoneareSony.AndI got changeback they allsaySonyontheoutsidebut insidetheyare player, onetelevision,VCRand DVD player.Now repairman cameandrepairedfivespeakers, oneCD corrosion. Iwasexpectingtoreplacealltheparts,but the washer/dryerworksfine,foratotalcostofUS$35. replaced itwithausedGEonehehadinhisshop.Now cally theentireelectricalinsidesofmachine—and and rippedoutthewholething,withall20wires—basi- ored wires,wascompletelywornout.Therepairmancame complicated-looking gadgetwithabout20differentcol- make orkeeppartsthatold.Thestarter-timer,abigand years old).ItfinallydiedandSearstoldmetheydon’t under Searswasher/dryercamewiththeboat(i.e.it’s15 replacement cost.Afewexamples:Mylittleover-and- else canberepairedinCartagenaatafractionofthe thing. Allthosethingsthatyouwouldreplaceanywhere deal isthattheseguyscanfixanything.AndImeanany- in yourchoiceofthreeorfouryards.Butthereallybig good itgetsitsownnumber.Youcangethauledouthere where everybodymeetsforhappyhour,plusgoodfood. ative”. Itismorelaidbackandlessorganized.Butithasthehang-outbar Club Náutico.ThedocksarewoodenandtheMed-stylemooring“cre- gated community:youhavetobeinvitedgetin.Mypersonalfavoriteis transients. Ittendstohavemoreorganizedsocialeventsandactslikea cement docksandfinedining,caterstowealthylocalsaswell venient totown,andpricedright.ThemoreupscaleClubPescahas dock iseasyandtakescreditcards.Themarinasarefriendly,safe,con- The bayatCartagenaiseasytoenterorexit,andwell-marked.fuel Give ortakeFebruary,thewindsarefavorableandalmostpredictable. Colombia isbelowthehurricanezonemakingitayear-roundfunspot. I doknowthatcatchmorenearColombia. don’t understandallaboutthemigratoryhabitsofCaribbeanfish,but me afterIlefttheGreaterAntilles,untilgotclosetoColombia.still boat ismoving,I’mfishing.Thosefishinglinesjustdidn’tsingwellfor fish, cookfishandeatfish.I’vesport-fishedallmylife.Sonowifthe many businessespreferMasterCard. hard foreverythingbeforeyoubuy. esting game,dependingonyourattitude.Youhavetonegotiatereal flex zoneandabottomprice.Thiscanberealannoyanceoraninter- could sayflexible.Oryouthereisagringoprice,middle on theboatandonlyrentacartodriveinmountainsafezones. style ofdrivingthattakesyearstoperfect.Soleavethemotor-scooters seekers, motorcycletaxisareevencheaper.Colombianshaveaunique Crossing thestreetisexcitingenough.Taxisarecheapand,forthrill- well-paid guerillasneedaneutralzoneforvacationonceinwhile. around, startingwiththenavyinCartagena.Ifyouthinkaboutit,even safe zonesare out ofthesafezonewouldbetotravelbybusanotherzone.The mosquitoes andcocainegrow.Theonlypossibletemptationtoventure parts wedon’tvisit.Butwhywouldwe?Thesearethejunglewhere other threequartersarecontrolledbyguerillafactions.Thesethe big cities,theresorts,andhighmountainareasaroundBogotá.The the government,police,military,etcetera.Thisispartwevisit: ten reasonsyoushouldgotoColombia. place foradventure. a certainamountofinconvenience,youwillfindColombiatobegreat where tripeisastaple.Withfewminorprecautionsandacceptanceof bugs arethekindsthatdon’tbite,andthisisnotonlycountry They alwaysusesafetylinesonthehigh-altitudestunts,snakesand have nothingtofearbutitself. around onthedeepbluesea.ButIthinksometimesit’struethatwe personally amaproponentofrationalfear,especiallywhensailing and bugs,eatingtheentrailsofvariousanimals,tomakeitgo.I there areenoughpeopleintheworldwhoafraidofheights,snakes

A LittleOfftheRhumbLine: My “entertainmentcenter”finallygavewaytosalt-air Number Eightcouldbepartofnumbernine,butit’sso Eight: Repairs Number Ninecouldbecallednauticalstuff,startingwiththefactthat Nine: NauticalStuff The NumberTenreasonisthefishing.Ilovetofish,catch Ten: Fishing The toptenreasonstogoColombia,fromone,areasfollows. And, asalwayswhentraveling,theusual“don’tbestupid”rulesapply. Speaking ofmoney,therearesomerestrictionsonVisahereand For betterorworse,thepriceofeverythingisnegotiable.Oryou A realhazardisdriving.Ingeneral,youwanttoforgetaboutit. Colombia isroughlydividedintofourparts.Onepartcontrolledby First, let’slookatacoupleofthenegatives.ThenI’llgiveyoutop Traveling inColombiaisalittlelikebeingcontestantonthatshow. THERE by ChuckCherry C Colombia’s Top Ten very h erry safe, with lots of visible police and military all safe,withlotsofvisiblepoliceandmilitaryall alittleoverdonetome,butI a littleoverdonetome,butIguess imagine youhaveheardofit.Itseemsi is aTVshowcalled“FearFactor”.Ii ma s a g TVs ine youhaveheardo h ow c all e d “Fe a f it.Itseems r F a ctor”. I g uess

InCartagenayou’llseelotsofuniforms JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27

NOAA PHOTO LIBRARY by Mariner’s Weather . for this information. Argo Named Storm Days 80 49.1 9.6 80 15 Days 24.5 96.1 5 40 AVERAGE 9 Storms FORECAST 150 Storm Days of Forecast and Average Parameters Comparison 2.3 Energy 4 PARAMETER Days 5.9 Named Hurricanes 8 Named H’cane Hurricanes Cyclone Hurricane Intense Intense Accumulated Activity Net Tropical Cyclone selected parameters forecasted on April 9, 2008 to the The above table compares 160 100 Both the warmer-than-normal water temperatures in the Atlantic and the La Niña water temperatures in the Atlantic and the La Niña Both the warmer-than-normal severity of the hurricane season is valuable to all An early warning of the potential Klotzbach and Gray’s forecasting techniques visit If you wish to read more about Virtual Buoy from Buoyweather anywhere you want. http://Buoyweather.com — enter a virtual buoy location GFS is predicting for Buoyweather uses the GFS model; it simply reports what or graphic format, For a small fee you can have daily e-mails (either text WindGURU virtual buoys — http://windguru.cz/int/index.php?sc=59 (has some pre-set Other weather tidbits: www.srh.noaa.gov/srh/jetstream/ www.nhc.noaa.gov/marinersguide.pdf http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weather_forecasts www.grib.us is: Clayton’s (see footnote) favorite weather book (so far) Thanks to Clayton and Fiona Lewis of the yacht observed parameters averaged from 1950 through 2000 observed parameters averaged weather pattern during the 2007-2008 winter are similar to prior years (1951, 1989, 2007-2008 winter are similar to prior years (1951, 1989, weather pattern during the hurricane activity occurred. Klotzbach and 1999 and 2000) when above-average and other factors such as the weaker-than-normal Gray use these observations tradewind strength this spring, to generate their fore- Azores High and the reduced as admit their April forecasts have not been as accurate casts. The CSU professors in hundreds of variables and interactive relationships they would like, but with conditions, forecasting is a huge challenge. global oceanic and atmospheric their boat, in the Atlantic Basin. who are living on, or leaving http://hurricane.atmos.colostate.edu/Forecasts. your chosen location. your choice). your own buoy) faster than Buoyweather, also GFS, but you can’t set William P. Crawford, Norton Nautical Books. Hurricanes Jeanne and Karl, September 21st, 2004

by Teri Rothbauer Average Again Average

Predicted to Be Above Be Above to Predicted Information Sources Information Weather Weather Some Useful Offshore Waters Forecast for the Caribbean Sea www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/MIAOFFNT3.shtml? Offshore Waters Forecast for the Tropical North Atlantic www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/MIAOFFNT3.shtml? These examples are for Trinidad, the former is for Piarco and the latter for Port These examples are for Trinidad, the former is for Piarco Atlantic Tropical Weather Discussion www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/MIATWDAT.shtml Atlantic Tropical Weather Outlook www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/refresh/MIATWOAT+shtml/010919.shtml Caribbean Weather Information http://caribwx.mwxc.com/marine.html Jeff Masters/Weather Underground www.wunderground.com/blog/JeffMasters Local Forecasts www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=piarco www.weather.com/outlook/travel/businesstraveler/tenday/ 2008 Hurricane Activity Hurricane 2008 The renowned hurricane forecasters, Philip J. Klotzbach forecasters, Philip J. Klotzbach The renowned hurricane of Spain (although neither is very good for cruisers in Chaguaramas). It’s easy to of Spain (although neither is very good for cruisers in get local forecasts for other islands on these websites. TDXX0002?from=36hr_fcst10DayLink_business and William M. Gray of Colorado State University, warn of Colorado State University, warn and William M. Gray to be an above average year for hur- that 2008 is likely you have already given thought ricane activity. Perhaps the hurricane season safely; to plans for weathering if not, now is the time. JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 Turks &Caicos ai esNt 104 RadioNewsNet Radio Trinidad Suriname FIRST Trinidad SVG St Thomas 720 Radio Radio St Lucia Family 89.9/90.9 100.5 St Kitts 92/94.1 Caribbean Family Nevis FamilyFM 93.1/.5/.7/.9 560 FM Soualiga 98.3 St Maarten NewsTalkFM 101.1 101.9FM FM 730 98.3 Montserrat RJR 99.9 IRIE Hot102FM KLAS 90.7/102.1/106.1740 FM VoiceofGuyana 88.7/93.1/107.9 Love 88.7/97.7/94.1 FM 89.1/89.9 Jamaica Haiti 107.7/.1/105.5/.1 ZGBC KairiFM FM Guyana JoyFM Grenada 101.1/.3/.5/.7 Dominica Curaçao Radio Caymans ZROD BVI 620 2 Bermuda 103.7 Belize Barbuda CBC 91.9/105.3 BBS 90.3 Barbados ZNS 90.7 900 Bahamas 104.5 Aruba ABSRadio Carib. Family 810/1540/1240 Carib. Lighthouse Antigua FM Anguilla 89.9/92.9 Relay FM FREQAM STATIONNAME PLACE 89.1 92.5 broadcasts intheCaribbean 1160 Caribbean. HereisahandylistofstationswithBBC tions onmanyoftheislandsthroughout Fortunately theystillbroadcastviaAMandFMsta- ing itsBBCWorldReportviashortwaveradio. world isdoing.RecentlytheBBCstoppedbroadcast- occasionally itisnicetoknowhowtherestof We maybecruisersliving“awayfromitall”,but byTeriRothbauer RA 0. 1290/1620 103.5 WRRA cies.shtml formoredetails. See www.bbc.co.uk/caribbean/institutional/frequen- WSTX WVWI USVI 100.3 Radio 970 One 1000 MODES INTHE BBC CHANGES ai BI 780 RadioZBVI NBC 89.7/90.7/107.5 Radio WSTA 1340 Radio Lumiere 98.1 oc fNvsRdo 895 VoiceofNevisRadio Ht9 F 94.1 Hit 94FM Lv M 95.1/88.9/98.1 Love FM NN 98.1 NCN CARIBBEAN RdoZK 71 1100 97.1 Radio ZDK RdoZZ 55./61. 555 95.5/.9/96.1/.9 Radio ZIZ RdoHyr 105.1/101.9 Hoyer Radio Fml M 88.9/92.9 FM Family RdoAgil 9. 1505 95.5 Anguilla Radio GBC 105.5 540 RdoS ui 97.3/.7 RadioStLucia BC14F 104.5/.7/.9/.3/.1 BBC104FM BBCFM RdoVB 0 1450 106 RadioVSB Co 6F 96 Cool96FM Rdo1 89.9/93.9 790 Radio1 92.9 VOB DC 818./0./0. 590 88.1/89.5/103.2/103.6 DBC TnMgcF 88.1/88.7/103.7 TenMagicFM WG 107.3 WVGN ZBRdo 88.3/95.5 ZJBRadio Vieo t are 1300 VoiceofSt.Maarten RadioT&C 0./81 900 100.7/98.1 98.7 101.9/103.9/107.7 000UTC on5890USB,at0130UTC7405,9775and13740USB, at2100UTCon11675USB. 5466.5, 7811,and12132Mhz.VoiceofAmericaboradcastsfor30minutes, threetimesaday:at many oftheislands.Seearticleonthispage. on14325USB/ham. and20000AM. 0730givesthecompleteCaribbeanforecast including rebroadcastingWEFX. UTC/1900AST,on8137,Voice,USB.Forcompleteschedule andchangesvisit activeTropicalsystemsintheAtlantic,CaribbeanWeather(Chris) runsaNetat2300 www.caribwx.com/ssb.html of which wascorrecttothebestofour knowledge asthisissueofCompass SELECTED CARIBBEANSHORTWAVE uroL rz 75 H 2 Monday-Saturday Monday-Saturday Thanks toWilliamMillsof VHF72 0745 VHF14 Daily 0730 Chaguaramas VHF 68/06 St. Martin/Maarten Puerto LaCruz 0900 Porlamar 0800 Grenada 0800 English Harbour 0730 SELECTED CRUISERS’VHFNETS VHF VHF VHF News, entertainmentandsportscanbeheardonUSArmedForcesNetwork radiobroadcastsat 68 72 68 The BBCnolongerbroadcastsonHFshortwaveintheCaribbean,but BBC newsisbroadcaston threatening Monday-Sunday Monday-Saturday • Anyone,licensedornot,maylegallyoperateonHAMfrequenciesinthe eventofalife- Monday-Saturday andSolarFluxinformationat18minutesaftereachhouron2500, 5000,10000,15000, • Duringhurricaneactivity,informationcanbefoundcontinuouslyon the HurricaneWatchNet emergency. • WWVhasWorldMarineStormWarnings(Voice)at8minutesaftereach hour, Note 3: CaribbeanSeaapproximately25minuteslater. USB Note 2: Voice Note 1: CaribbeanSeaapproximately25minuteslater. Caribbean 4369,8788,13110,17362,22804.GulfofMexico,SouthwestNorthAtlantic,then 4316,8502,12788,17144.5. C C) NMG,NewOrleans,4316,8502,12788. B) Sea USB USB Voice Voice NMN,Chesapeake,4426,6501,8764,13089,17314. 12359 USB LSB/ham Voice A) C LSB/ham Voice Frequencies (inkHz): Voice 7086 USB (Note2) C 3815 0330 CaribbeanSea(WLO) Voice USB(Note2) 0000 CaribbeanEmergency&WeatherNet 12350 2000 Voice 0000 1835 2235 Carib.Cocktail&WeatherNet 8104 2330 2130 SouthboundII(Herb) 1630 2000 USB(Note2) 2030 1600 Voice 2000 CaribbeanSea(WLO) Offshore LSB/ham(Note3) 1800 8137 NMG 1400 1730 Voice 1800 CaribbeanWeather(Chris) LSB/ham(Note1) 1530 LSB/ham 7250 CaribbeanSea(WLO) 0930 LSB/ham 1330 Voice Voice CaribbeanWeather(Chris) Offshore Forecast 0900 1400 1300 Voice A 7086 3815 Broadcast 0830 1230 Voice KP2GCaribbeanWeatherNet(George) 3855 1130 1200 CaribbeanMaritimeMobileNet NMG 0710 MODE 1110 CaribbeanWeather(Chris) Forecast 0700 1100 USB TYPE Carib.Emergency&WeatherNet A Offshore 0700 B 1100 FREQ Voice TrinidadEmergencyNet9Z4CP 0630 Wefax 0800 1030 Broadcast 0630 1030 STATION&REPORTDESCRIPTION 0930 USB NMG Forecast USB 0600 AST A UTC Voice B Wefax 0530 Broadcast 0200 USB Offshore USB NMG B Wefax Forecast A Broadcast Voice USB USB B Wefax USB Overstreet Gog oe na 75adgvsawahrsnpi,te oe o78 n t Georgecomesonat0715andgivesaweathersynopsis,thenmovesto 7086andat Unlesssevereweatherthreatens,thisnetisnotconductedonSundays.Whenthereare Anin-depthvoicereportfollowedbyfaxesandSSTV,exceptSundays. , BillCampbellof WEATHER REPORTS Toucan I Alcheringa II , TeriRothbauer(andtheThinMan) of , andthePompasof Second Millennium went topress. 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WWW.EXN.COM by Clayton Lewis winter, the ITCZ is pushed south, as far as 5°S. Likewise, strong our

What Causes Hurricanes in the Mid-Atlantic? Most Atlantic hurricanes start near tropical waves. We’ve all experienced the wind Strong winter trades in either hemisphere push the ITCZ away towards the other The ITCZ, a.k.a. the doldrums, varies from about 20 to 150 miles wide and is most What is the ITCZ? If you’ve read the classic cruising books — by Eric Hiscock or Miles and Beryl Tropical Waves don’t form every two days except in the peak of the summer. If they What’s a Tropical Wave? in the band between the equator and mid-latitudes can The flow of the tradewinds patterns associated with a tropical wave; wind north of east as the wave approaches and south of east behind it. Imagine riding a satellite above the wave. You look down and see the winds to the left of the wave are coming from the northeast — angling downward from your viewpoint while the southeast winds to the right of the wave are angling upward from the equator. The cloud formations near tropical waves show these “down left” and “up right” patterns and are known as the signature “inverted V curvature” of a tropical wave, visible in satellite imagery. —Continued on next page winter trades in the southern hemisphere push the ITCZ north during our summer, sometimes as far as 15°N, bringing unsettled weather as it passes over us. This north-south movement of the ITCZ lags behind the sun’s annual north-south migra- tion by about two months, so the ITCZ is farthest north in August, typically about 10°N. It is no coincidence that this is also prime hurricane season. pole. So in intense when it is narrowest. Smeeton — you will have read about the doldrums. In this era of acronyms that very descriptive word has been replaced by “the ITCZ,” the Inter Tropical Convergence Zone. What is converging in the zone between the tropics are the two tradewind bands, the southern hemisphere trades and our northern hemisphere trades. The trades meet in the equatorial area where intense heat causes the rising of hot air. This is where the tradewinds finally taper off. The ITCZ is characterized by large amounts of moisture being driven aloft, resulting in heavy cloud formation, little wind and frequent showers and thunderstorms. did, the six-month hurricane season from June through November should see about 90 tropical waves. Instead we get about 60 per year as the historical average. that tends to disrupt the flow. The result is that waves form in the river of air. These that tends to disrupt the flow. The result is that waves consist of low- and high- waves have a period of about two days and, like any waves, from the equatorial area pressure bands. The bands stretch north and south rollers that form over upwards to mid-latitudes. You can think of them as enormous parts of the waves, are Africa and roll west. The troughs, that is, the low-pressure called tropical waves. When a trough reaches far north it’s called a “high amplitude” wave; “low amplitude” waves don’t stretch very far northward. be affected by land features. During the summer in particular, the strong contrast During the summer in particular, the strong contrast be affected by land features. has jungles and the dry, hot Sahara to the north in Africa between the wet equatorial the northern hemisphere tradewind flow. Think of a powerful influence on the the African climate contrast as a writhing disturbance tradewind flow as a river and and Hurricanes Tropical Weather Weather Tropical Understanding JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 sign ofglobalclimatechange. Hurricane CatarinawasaCategory1.Scientists stilldebatewhetheritisonemore Brazil. Sincetherewasnoreadylistof names,itwasnamedafterthelandfall. Atlantic hurricaneeverrecordedwent ashore inSantaCatarinasoutheastern (the southernhemisphereequivalentof ourSeptember)theoneandonlySouth don’t tendtobefavorableforhurricane development. wind sheartendstobehigherthere.So SSTandwindshearintheSouthAtlantic about 5°S,andat5°Sthereisn’tastrongenoughCoriolisForcetostartrotation. South Atlantic. there isnotropicalwavefactoryinAfricaandsowavesarerare the rainforest. Thatwholeareaisnorthoftheequator.Insouthernhemisphere tropical wavefactoryinAfricaliesmostlybetweentheSaharaandAfrican co-operate too,likewindshearandseasurfacetemperatures—SSTs).But the Tropical ConvergenceZone(ITCZ)andatropicalwave(providedfewotherfactors not counterclockwiseastheydohereinthenorth. ing thatballagain!Thismakessouthernhemispheretropicalstormsspinclockwise, same force. the CoriolisForce.Anditdoesn’tjustaffectballs!Aircurrentsaresubjectedto the will bedeflectedtotheright.Theapparentforcecausingthismovementisnamed faster thanJacksonville.Infact,anyflightoftheballinnorthernhemisphere same result—thetrajectorygetsbenttorightbecauseballismovingeast ing aballfromQuitoaimedatJacksonvilledirectlytothenorthandyouget the curve offtotherightofyourintendedflight.Playsamementalgameforthrow- the Pacific.Ifyoudrewalineonglobetofollowtrajectoryofball,itwould on theequator,Quitowouldhavemovedwellofftoeast.Theballfallinto 850 mphbutQuitoistravelingeastat1,000mph.Bythetimeyourballdropped As youletgooftheball,you,ballandJacksonvillearetravelingeastatabout south aimingatthepointonequator.YouwouldbeforQuito,Ecuador. 850 mph. to theequator.Pointsat30°northorsouthlatitude,forexample,moveabout Points betweentheequatorandpolesmoveatdifferentrates—fastestclosest center, theaxis,ofearth’srotation.(However,youwouldhaveverycoldfeet.) the polesforawholeday,youwouldnothavetraveledatallsinceare the eastin24hours—about1,000milesperhour.Butifyoustoodstillatoneof hours. Astheearthspunthroughonerevolutionyouwouldtravel25,000milesto they form.Butwhatisit? destroying thesystem. and detachedfromthecirculationfeedingitbelow,killingheatengine direction aloftwillalsotiltit.Enoughandtheupperlevelcorebetornaway it is,thebetterwillpump.Higherwindsalofttiltcolumn;adifferentwind This heatpumpistheenginedrivinghurricane.Thestraighterandmorevertical up watervapor,whichcoolsandcondenses,releasinguntoldenergylotsofrain. drinking straw,aroundwhichwarm,moistairissuckedaloft.Thecolumnpumps hurricane development”. up toabout40,000feet.Windshearof20knotsorlessisconsidered“favorablefor — thatis,nodifferenceinspeedordirectionofthewindatalllevelsfromsurface level andthatatthesurface.Ideallyadevelopinghurricanewantszerowindshear storm thathasalreadydeveloped. necessary forhurricanestodevelopandhighwindshearcancrippleorcollapsea shear” whenalowthreatenstodevelopintotropicalsystem.Lowwindshearis blog (www.wunderground.com/blog/JeffMasters)we’vebeenseeingthewords“wind hits landthesourceoffuelisgoneanditrunsoutsteam(punintended). storms inthesamegeneralareaseason. the trackofarecenthurricane.Thisisonereasonthatitraretohavetwointense and Ritain2005intensifiedtoCategory5overhoteddiestheGulfofMexico. strengthened inintensityfromCategory1to4only14hours.BothKatrina Hurricane Opalin1995.encounteredawarm-watereddytheGulfofMexicoand tion. Meteorologistsfirstrecognizedtheimportanceofdeep,warmeddiesduring anomaly) suchastheGulfStreamorawarmeddy,itgoesthroughrapidintensifica- is toocool. As thepassinghurricanestirsupwateritcankillitselfbydredgingthat 26°C (79°F).Furthermore,thislayerofwarmwatershouldbeatleast200feetdeep. into theweathersystemwithevaporatingwater. (11°F), inonecaseofasupertyphoon,9°C(16°F).Allthatenergyhasbeenabsorbed water. Afterahurricanepasses,seatemperaturesarecoolerbyasmuch6°C electric generatingcapacityoftheentireworld.Allthatenergycomesfromwarm — 6x10 in theformationofhurricanes. Temperature. Ofcourse,thereasonisthatSSTperhapsmostimportantfactor hurricane season,thefirstthinginhisforecastisSST—SeaSurface of hurricanes. the ITCZareoftenimplicatedinformingtropicalsystemsandcanbebirthplace the systemtorotatecounterclockwise. adding westerlywindstotheopenbottomofourinvertedV;thisstrongforcehelps north oftheequator,southerntradesbendtorightdueCoriolisForce, into theinvertedVofawave,itbringssoutherntradespicture.Nowwell culation tobegin. you counterclockwise,down-leftandup-right.It’saprimelocationforcycloniccir- So thereareno—well,almostSouth Atlantichurricanes.InMarch2004 Furthermore, thewaterofSouthAtlantic iscolderthanourNorthAtlanticand Also, theITCZwandersaroundfromseasontoseason.Itreachesabout15°Nbutonly Recall thatmosthurricanesareformedbytherightinteractionbetweenInter The SouthAtlanticdoesn’tgethurricanes.Whyisthat? South AtlanticHurricanes In thesouthernhemisphere,Coriolisdeflectstrajectoriestoleft.Imaginefling- So imaginestandinginJacksonville,Florida,at30°Nandhurlingaballdirectly The equatoris25,000mileslong.Imaginestandingontheforafull24 Coriolis Forceplaysapartintheformationofhurricanesandsteeringthemonce What isCoriolisForce? Here’s why:Thecenterofahurricanesystembecomeshollowcolumn,like Wind shearisthedifferencebetweenwindspeedanddirectionatjetstream Over andoveragainintheNationalHurricaneCenterforecastsJeffMaster’s Wind Shear,WhatisIt? So longasthehurricaneremainsoverwarmwateritmaygainstrength.Once Similarly, ahurricanecanstumbleifitpassesovercoolerareaofwater,suchas Sometimes whenahurricanerunsoverparticularlywarmspotintheocean(an In ordertohaveanadequatesourceofsurfaceenergy,theoceanshouldbeatleast The averagehurricanereleasesenergyeachdayequivalentto600terawatts: If yougotoChrisParker’ssite(http://caribwx.mwxc.com/marine.html)duringthe Hurricanes andWaterTemperatures These conditionsofinteractionbetweenatropicalwaveandnorthernbumpin If theITCZgetsinvolvedatsametime,pushingnorthwithabumpprotruding Imagine standingjustinsidetheinvertedV.Windsonbothsidesaretryingtospin Continued frompreviouspage 14 Watts.Whattheheckdoesthatmeaninreal-lifeterms?It’s200times JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31

pueblos Death in . Take a taxi there PM , before you go. It’s like that, and being Spend three nights in Bogotá. On the second night, Spend three nights in Bogotá. Two: Cali For Number Two, you will need to return to Bogotá One: Bragging Rights The Number One reason to go to Colombia is to tell Res. This is unquestionably the best and most fun Res. This is unquestionably none. It’s a steak house restaurant in Colombia, bar with four or five bars, a the size of a football field, (not guitar players), a kid’s area, roving entertainers really big grill where really big salad bar and a really, they fix your steak. It’s you can talk to the cooks while open late on Saturday for crowded. It’s fun. It stays basically a five-hour party the elite of Bogotá, but it’s 1:00 with lunch starting around unless you speak really good bus Spanish, but take a unless you speak really good bus back, it’s a lot cheaper. steak house on the left, go up the hill and eat at the Mirador la Paloma. Fifteen minutes up the mountain or about two thousand feet up, it is indoor/outdoor with a fireside at every table. It has an unbelievable view of the city at night, great food and is incredibly romantic. Take a coat. Some nights there is a street party right there on the side of the mountain. If it’s on, be sure to go and buy a hot toddie. The steak and hop a plane to Cali. The timing here is a little dif- ficult, but you need to arrive in Cali just before January 1st for the opening bullfights of the South American tour. Another more remote safe zone in the western mountains, Cali is a small and beautiful village which has become famous for (besides beautiful women) hosting the openers of this most Spanish of sports. Whether or not you like bullfights and whether or not you actually go to the bullfights is irrelevant. The adventure here is a week-long affair with a bullfight every day, ending around cocktail hour, followed by parties at every possible location. You can dress up and hobnob with the crème de la crème of Bogotá in the fancy hotel lobbies, or mix with the middle class in the town squares, or hang with the old bar flies at the local pubs. But in every case you can expect the mata- dors of the day to pull up beside you and discuss the successes or failures of their turns, along with general bull stuff. Read Hemingway’s bullfight book, the Afternoon familiar with some of the jargon will help. Then go back to Cartagena and rest up for Carnival in February. your friends and make them jealous. three or four blocks from the town center. You could three or four blocks from the town center. You could hacienda Four: Bogotá’s Attractions Four: Bogotá’s to the city old Cartagena and hop a plane you have to leave good For Number Four really a tourist destination as much as a capital city. Why come to Bogotá? It’s not Talk about an old town, here you will find all kinds of unique shops, bars, restau- One day, hop the train, which stops at the other end of the valley at the salt moun- One day, hop the train, which stops at the other end of through (with a guide who You have to see this. It takes three to four hours to go gold museum. Even if you The main reason that you have to come to Bogotá is the Three: Villa de Leiva 400 years ago. You are going For Number Three, pretend you are a Spanish viceroy are married, think of it like bird watching. It is absolutely impossible to stand any- It is absolutely impossible of it like bird watching. are married, think Statistically, if a at least one or two Tens. or Bogotá and not see where in Cartagena beautiful of the girls will be stunningly has four daughters, three Colombian woman every man. The are at least six women for merely pretty. And, there and the fourth shop. Gorgeous is a motorcycle repair can find more men than women only place you and Cali (must of Medellín, Manizales in the mountain coffee towns women are born for husbands. big cities to work and look in the water) and come to the be something boat for the last few years. been a lovely one on my And yes, there’s is will see all four seasons of the year, every day. Bogotá of Bogotá. Take a coat; you lots seat of the government: another big safe zone with big, like Manhattan. It is the stupid” rules apply. of police. Still, the “don’t be usually a couple of must-sees. Bogotá is no exception, In all capital cities there are the good reason to go to Bogotá is to leave and take but first you have to eat. One de for the Saturday afternoon “lunch” at Andres Carne 25-minute taxi ride to Chia be staying in the same room Christopher Columbus stayed in. (Okay, maybe his be staying in the same room Christopher Columbus Olympic-sized swimming pool son.) Check out the view through the kitchen, then the them just lying around all over made with fossils. It’s true, this is fossil country. Find or visit the nearby fossil museum, once again proving that the high mountains of Colombia were once an ocean floor. rants, etcetera. In addition, now that you have a car, you can visit the nearby that offer their own entertainment, including a vineyard, fossil places, etcetera. Relax a few days here, because next we’re going to a really big party. house on the right is fine dining, indoors, warmer and more expensive, with the house on the right is fine dining, indoors, warmer Rosa. Like similar districts in same view. On the third night go to Bogotá’s Zona of downtown has four or five Charlotte, Dallas, or Miami, this blocked-off section to choose from. There are square blocks of neat and unique bars and restaurants over is a series of nice discos. lots of choices besides steak. After dinner, one block lies. Proof that this whole tain, where Bogotá’s second most important attraction is 85-percent salt and high mountain valley was once under the ocean, the mountain Catholics and hard workers, is thus part of Colombia’s source for same. Being good could attend Sunday service the miners wanted a chapel in the salt mine so they though, it deteriorated over without leaving. They got one. Being made of rock salt, as a novel idea. When the the years, but not before attracting considerable attention religious architect types from bids went out for a new one around the 1960s, famous and better monument to God all over the world responded to build an even bigger and miners. And they did. deep and cold. So bring a coat speaks English) so it’s an all-day affair. It’s way down can buy beer on the train. and be prepared for a religious experience. And yes, you square city blocks and four are not into Incas, you gotta love gold. Covering two of the world. Ever wonder stories tall, this has to be one of the top ten museums the gold museum. Leave the where the real El Dorado (city of gold) was? Find out at then head to the fourth floor coat, take the tour in English until you are worn out, dark room. Do not miss the fourth floor dark room. three-hour drive through the on vacation to the town of Villa de Leiva. A two- to rental car will get you to this mountains north of Bogotá (still in the safe zone) in a getaway for the upper classes quaint cobblestone-street village that has served as a Colorado, in the summer. for almost 500 years. Think Jasper, Canada, or Vail, Check in to the old , ajiacos Check out Cartagena’s excellent naval museum are memo- sancocho

ROD & JAN TUTTLE . empanada are readily available at short intervals. From sunrise to are readily available at short intervals. From sunrise arepas you can get your favorite AM Five: Pretty Women Number Five I’m putting right in the middle to be politically correct. The one Lastly, being a true tourist destination, Cartagena has true fine dining, complete withLastly, being a true tourist destination, Cartagena has true I just love street food. When I first got here, the dramatic improvement in street I just love street food. When I first got here, the dramatic Now I’ll admit you won’t get Colombia mixed up with France. But when I arrived Now I’ll admit you won’t get Colombia mixed up with Six: Food of people will question my Number Six may get a couple of snickers. In fact, a lot The people are friendly. Cartagena is a tourist destination for Colombians, too. I The people are friendly. Cartagena is a tourist destination The whole city and its environs are in the safe zone. The whole city and its environs This is the only Spanish colonial town the British never took. (Read the story of theThis is the only Spanish colonial Seven: Historic Cartagena Seven: Historic I was told and check out Cartagena itself. boat for Number Seven Let’s get off the I’ve seen so many things, both mine and other boaters’, fixed at the docks for next other boaters’, fixed at the things, both mine and I’ve seen so many Colombian national resource that surpasses even coffee is pretty girls. Now we know why Juan Valdez is always smiling. If you are a single male this is paradise. If you a healthy tab. What makes it special is Colombia’s relationship with Argentinean beef.a healthy tab. What makes it special is Colombia’s relationship grass that Argentina has,Here they have the same cattle and the same high mountain Argentina is famous. And ofand so they have the same thick juicy steaks for which change from the paper- course, they import some from Argentina as well. It is a welcome thin shoe leather they pass off as steak in Central America. I could go on — especially about coffee, seafood, and Momo’s ice cream — but there’s more to Colombia. food forced me to return to my morning running habit. (If you are a runner, time food forced me to return to my morning running habit. bakery, which opens at 8 your morning run on the wall to end at the front street They have a whole street o’clock.) The old town street food is the most fattening. enter through the wall — talk dedicated to candy. (It’s the first main street as you ice-cold tangerine drink to die about having priorities in order.) Fresh baked rolls, an for, and hot fresh actually had cream in it instead of water and pepper. This and actually had cream in it instead of water and pepper. rable native Colombian dishes. about 10:00 (from the east) it was immediately clear that there was a big improvement in the diet. (from the east) it was immediately clear that there was thicker, like a stew or Green vegetables made an appearance, the soups became favorite soup, goulash, and potatoes often replaced dasheen. My personal sanity when I say you should come to Colombia for the food. But hear me out. If sanity when I say you should come to Colombia for out how (and why) to eat the you’ve come from the east you’ve been trying to figure “Chinese” restaurants in the bones in goat rotis in Trinidad, the mystery meat at Up to now, hot sauce Guyanas, and the unidentifiable gourd soups in Venezuela. of the bones and shells were was a major food group and “fine dining” meant some the west, you are painfully removed before the food was cooked. If you’ve come from US fast-food restaurant from aware that “fine dining” meant choosing your favorite experience. South of the hundred or so available; not exactly a culturally enriching I haven’t been able to find a Mexican taco shack and west of a Trinidadian roti hut, roti. a local dish I can remember and I’d rather forget the could go on about art, architecture and bullfights, but I hope you get the idea that could go on about art, architecture and bullfights, but Cartagena is the logical place to start a Colombian adventure. Cartagena is the home of the Colombian navy and Cartagena is the home of uniforms walking around. military so there are lots of some of the bigger chan- Outside the wall you will find fish store that sells dleries and a very nice wholesale to the public at the same price as to the restaurants. The two big tourist attractions outside the wall are the convent on top of the hill and the big fort. Cartagena was protected by a series of small forts that the British did manage to blow up, but the big one, and I mean big, is completely intact. It is so big it takes the better part of a day to see it all. last big battle in the visitors’ guide). Consequently the 500-year-old wall still standslast big battle in the visitors’ the The Club Pesca marina is actually built inside one of around the old town district. the entire town on the wall (about four miles). Therewalls. You can walk or jog around to churches, restaurants and stores inside. Be sure are innumerable old residences, well done museums, suchcheck out some of the very the museum of the wallas the naval museum and itself). From breakfast to(located of course in the wall necessities of life in spe- nightlife, you can get all the on the lively streets. It’scialty shops or from vendors night, and have a beer atfun to go there, especially at bars, one of which isone of the many indoor/outdoor memorabilia.filled with antique nautical to allow two months to “do” the historic port city of Cartagena. Two months? For the city of Cartagena. Two to “do” the historic port to allow two months my boat, stern-to not find me there aboard you could more often than last two years, of yourself as a yet. Even if you don’t think — and I’m not finished at Club Náutico his- being overwhelmed by the sheer magnitude of the history buff, you can’t help torical stuff around you. to nothing that I really think it’s worth going to Cartagena just to get the boat going to Cartagena just I really think it’s worth to nothing that prices before to bargain hard and compare tuned up. Just remember spruced up and making a deal. —Continued from page 26 —Continued from JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 byHonoreeCooper ever, whenthewindpushedhimandhispilotbackwardsevery- can dothosetwothings.Walt’sflightgotofftoabumpystart,how- — notmuchskillisrequiredaslongyouhaveatandemrideand “Hold onhere,andsitdownwhenItellyou.”So,anyonecandothis instruction wasgiven.Infact,the“preflight”asentencelong: over awoodfireandkabobofmysterybeefpotatoes.Yummy! visited thestreetvendorswherewefeastedoncorncobroasted the pilotstowaitawhileforwindsabate.Sowerelaxedand The weatherforecastatasmalltownthebaseofmountaintold long jeeprideupamountainroadwasworththepriceofadmission. Picchu herewecome. slowly, wecouldslowourheartrateandcontrolthedizziness.Machu our Peruhike,whichwillbeat14,000to16,000feet.Ifwewalked to hikeatthataltitude.Wewerepracticingfor car backdownto12,500feetanddisembarked Andes mountainrange.Thenwetookthecable winds whilegazinginaweattheviewof our heavycoatsandhatstowithstandtheharsh French in1952.Werodetothetopanddonned by takingthe city ofMérida.Youcanviewthepeakupclose Venezuela atover15,000feet,loomsabovethe mountain in Bolivar, thehighest inland, wherePico the hills.Wetraveled decided toheadfor husband WaltandI earlier thisyear,my Venezuelan coast boatyard onthe being paintedina was hauledoutand W Then wewereofftothetopandanotherspectacularview.Notmuch The nextadventureinMéridawaspara-gliding.harrowinghour- MÉRIDA ANDLOSLLANOS,VENEZUELA O-the-Wisp, yacht, hile our É teleferico Will-

, acablecarbuiltbythe 00 etl feet ooms abo et ve he etI ewal we If feet ked …wesailorswentflying false start… After a ALL ASHORE… room withhotwater;anddailymaidserviceincludingbottledwater,freshtowels cable televisionthathadCNNinEnglishandsomemoviechannels;ourownbath- run hosteluponarrivinginMérida.For75,000bolivarswehadaprivateroomwith and gettingfit,enjoyingour same time. for thewindtocalmdownandthenofftheywent. one felldown,includingthetwoguystryingtoholdthem.Theywaitedafewminutes We spent a few more days hiking some of the smaller mountains, taking pictures We spentafewmoredayshikingsomeofthesmallermountains,takingpictures What anincrediblesensationpara-glidingis!Itwassurrealandscaryatthe k kingfishers. Wealsoheldababycaimanandsawprehistoricturtle we went piranhafishingandwhite-watertubing,wherewesawadozenorso an an Africansafariofsorts.Wewerenotdisappointedintheleast.even t the sightofanacondas,anteatersandhundredsbirds.Itsoundedlike a a sidetrip—three-dayexcursiontoLosLlanos,wherewewerepromised U US$18.50 —stillagreatdeal. r recession, the75,000bolivarsequaledUS$15.Todayitwouldbecloserto mo months agoandreceivedagoodratewhentheUSeconomywasn’tin sheets, andsmallpacketsofsoap.BecauseweexchangedourUSdollars h e

i S s B Being soclosetothewide-openplainsofVenezuela,wedecidedtake n c e a anteaters, scarletibis,roseatespoonbills,tiger gro grows toasmuch120pounds.Andtherewere herds ofcapybara,theworld’slargestrodent,which posada n , MamaTila’s.Westumbleduponthisfamily- and June. the monthsofMay and touringduring months inPeruhiking ing forwardtotwo paint job.We’relook- together afterthe everything back on thehard,putting the boat,whichisstill red-tailed hawks. storks, tanagersand an the an mo ing pa tog ev on the red Now wearebackon N JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 Grenada Caribbean-wide S We swam through We swam through a o e h l i n Since you have to plan on getting everything in your pack wet, a small dry-bag protected all of my gear in my daypack. pools and climbed around and over boulders. A few boulders presented the opportunity for small jumps into pools. Most of the water on the canyon route was ankle- to thigh- deep but now and again we had to swim through pools where the water was over our heads. Backstroking through one pool, I watched bats fly from roosts on the gorge walls. It seemed like a bellbird was follow- ing us, but I guess it was a busy day for defending territories. The liquid sound of the descending notes of a calling wren woke me from a floating daydream and brought me back to the very green world. The word verdant came to mind. There is a certain deliciousness in floating in fresh water, deep in a canyon, after o fl g l i a t so n w d m w c ce f d o y d m p a b o ju t r d w p w B L L A F by Devi Sharp R ALL ASHORE…

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T A Arctic Tern. W Devi and her husband Hunter are currently exploring the Caribbean in their Back at our starting point we changed into dry clothes and piled into Jesse’s At another unmarked spot, Snake announced that we would start walking We gathered at a junction of the Madamas River and a side stream and walked In spite of the rain, the river was clear as cellophane. We donned our life jack- In spite of the rain, the river was clear as cellophane. We started the walk on a very muddy rutted road that climbed gently. Everyone We started the walk on a very It was raining when we piled out of Jesse James’ maxi-taxi at 9:00 in the It was raining when we piled sailboat, maxi. Instead of retracing our route through Arima, we drove north through Maracas Beach and caught the last open Bake and Shark stand. We washed our Bake and Shark down with a cold beer and headed back to our boats at Chaguaramas. through the woods. After about 20 minutes of following a faint trail through tall trees we reached a road. We had made a loop and were back on the road that we had started on. We left our packs at a trail junction and walked about a quarter of a mile to a waterfall. It was one of those dramatic waterfalls that shoots out of a nick in the canyon wall. The water then free-falls down about 200 feet. We all swam and washed the mud off our shoes and clothes. Jesse, our driver, and owner of Members Only Maxi Taxi Service, led the group up on a short rock-climb under the falls. Jesse had an ear-to-ear grin as water pound- ed on his head and shoulders; he obviously spends too much time behind the wheel of the maxi and on the phone. At the end of a wonderful hike through the gorge of the Madamas River this waterfall was like dessert after a luscious meal. We were satiated and tired. up the side stream. We ate a bit of lunch and picked the gravel out of our shoes. Snake amused himself by feeding bits of his sandwich to the crayfish and fresh- water shrimp that we could see in the limpid water. There was no mark or sign to “turn left here”; Snake knows the trails and has a variety of routes in his mind in the event of a rising river or the need to seek high ground quickly. Snake laughed and joked with us, but he was always watching to see that we were all doing okay and that the weather did not threaten us with a flooded canyon. It had been raining off and on all day, but there was no sign that the river was rising or that a side stream was flooding. ets, made minor changes to our clothing and headed downriver. After a few ets, made minor changes to our clothing and headed so I wear a wetsuit vest. gorge hikes, I have learned that I tend to get a bit chilly, months of living on a sailboat at anchor in the Caribbean. up here knows Snake and he hoots as he approaches a house. Even the dogs up here knows Snake and a chat with a farmer tending a field of eddo, dasheen see Snake as a friend. After through deep forest. We had entered the territory and citrus, we started to walk denizen of undisturbed rainforest. Male bellbirds of the Bearded Bellbird, a their presence with a loud “bock”. Bellbirds defend their territory by announcing makes it very difficult to locate them in the mid- are great ventriloquists, which rain was not very con- canopy of the rainforest. We were there to hike and the to the Madamas River. ducive to looking for birds, so we continued our walk morning. We were a few miles north of Brasso Seco on the north central coast morning. We were a few miles in the rainforest — how would these giant of Trinidad. Rain seemed appropriate plenty of rain? Nine of us cruisers had signed up trees and vines grow without and the Sobo River Double Waterfalls. We were for a hike to Madamas Gorge (Trinidad’s national breakfast food) that we had well fueled with the “doubles” and we were ready for a hike in “da bush” with our eaten in the town of Arima known as Snake. guide, Laurence Pierre, better JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 Tel: +596(0)5967480Fax:[email protected] Centre deCarenage97290LeMarin

• gasstation • tel+fax+internet • water/ice/laundry • deepwaterstern-toberth gas station:(+)596661730 POINTE DUBOUT, MARTINIQUE RESTAURANT e-mail: [email protected] Open 7/7VHF:16/68 CUSTOMS CLEARANCE Tel: (+)596660545 DOCK, BAR Antifouling Epoxy Batteries Marine Paints Plumbing Zinc Anodes IN MARTINIQUE MAINTENANCE BOAT FOR SPECIALIST THE TH 14˚33N -61˚03W & E

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parents foundit marina, Billsentitupamast—andthe Right: AfterRickreturnedthenestto almost sailedtoFlorida Above: Close-upofthefledglingsthat wouldn’t abandontheiryoung. that thechicks’parentswouldlikelyfollowthemtoFloridaashewassurethey but theynowhadafeatheredfamilytoconsider.AftersomeagonizingRickdecided about thattimeRickandhisfamilyrealizedtheyhadtomakeatripbackFlorida from predators.Theylaidtheireggsandeventuallythreelittlechickshatched.Just a nestintheirradarreflectorthatwassuspendedhighuponthemastwellaway and wethespongessoakingupeverytidbitofknowledgetheywerewillingtoimpart. Rick needed.FromthenonRick,hiswifeandtheirteenageson,becametheteachers never beoffendedbyyoutellingusthere’sabetterwaytodosomething.”Thatwasall open books,readyandwillingtolearneverythingyouareteachus.Wewill a suggestion.You’vegottobekidding…mind?“Please,please”,Iresponded,“Weare to ourboatseeminglyshootthebreeze,andthengentlyaskifwemindedhemade he knewcouldbehandledmuchdifferentlywithbetterresults.Hewouldsaunterover us yetfascinating. his lifesailing.Hetoldstoriesofadventuresatseathatweresomewhatscaryto tors. Rickwasaroughandtoughsaltycharacterwhohadspentthebetterpartof ence andknowledgeundertheirbelts,wethoughthadfoundtheperfectmen- son, long-timecruisersalsowaitingouthurricaneseason.Withawealthofexperi- immense learningcurveaheadofusbeforeweventuredintotheworldcruising. ricane seasononGrandBahamaIslandatOceanReefMarinaandResorttotacklean 42-foot ocean-goingsailboatpurchasedinFlorida.Wedecidedtospendourfirsthur- well formanyyearsasweexploredthewilderness.Thencamegiganticleaptoa to launchoutontheirown. and twonewbiecruiserswerebetterinformed throughtheimpartedsailingwisdom poking out.Billclimbedupandfoundan emptynest.Theyounghadtakenflight. nest. Wemonitorediteverydayuntilone daywecouldnolongerseethreetinyheads and continuedtofeednurturetheyoung astheygrewandpreparedtoleavethe ing fortheparentstorecognizecall of theiryoungandreturntothenest. harm’s wayfromthefelinecritters,baby birdswouldbesafe.Wewerealsowait- My husband,Bill,thoughtifhehoisted the reflectorupmastandhungitoutof buyers, seemedtobetheperfectsolution.Itwasn’tlikelyleavingdocksoon. sale, dockednexttowhereRick’sboathadbeenandthathadn’tseenanyprospective too lowandaccessiblesowesearchedforasaferplacetohangit.Voila!Aboat for dent catsthatfreelyroamedthepropertymightlocatenest.Itwashungalittle bus inhopesofsavingthelivesthreebabybirds. carried onhisway.Whataguy!Hecaredenoughtomakespecialtripinmini his boathadbeendocked.Hehungthereflectoronapostatendofdock and jaunt backtoOceanReef.Hewantedreturnthebabiesalocationclosewhere where itwashung,cradledinhisarms,hoppedamini-busandtooktheshort So ourroughandreadycruisingbuddyloweredtheradarreflectorfrommast his boattoPortLucayaandhedecidedhadreturnthechicksOceanReef. tor withthebabybirdsnestledincup.Tohisdismayparentsdidnotfollow voice outsideourboatand,todelight,therestoodRick,holdingtheradarreflec- up beforeleavingontheirtriptoFlorida.Abouttwohourslaterweheardafamiliar of astheyleftthedockandheadedforPortLucaya,aboutthreemilesaway,to fuel As Rick’sboatspentconsiderabletimeatOceanReef,somebirdsdecidedtomake Rick wasalittlecautiousatfirstwhenheobservedustryingtosolveproblemthat Docked afewslipsawaywascouplelivingontheirsailboatwithteenage Our 19-footcanoeonaninlandlakeinBritishColumbia,Canada,hadservedus Thanks toRickandhisfamily,threebaby birdshadachancetofulfilltheirlives Yes, thereisahappyending.Withinfew hourstheparentsreturnedtonest We checkedonthenestperiodicallythatdayandbecameconcernedresi- With asenseofsadnesswewavedgoodbyetothisfamilyhadgrownveryfond Salty Sailor Saves Lives THIS CRUISINGLIFE by BevBate

JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 10 1810 11 1854 12 1940 13 2028 14 2118 15 2210 16 2310 (full) 17 2352 18 0000 19 0040 20 0127 21 0212 22 0256 23 0340 24 0426 25 0514 26 0606 27 0702 28 0804 29 0908 30 1013 31 1115 22 0243 23 0329 24 0413 25 0457 26 0541 27 0628 28 0719 29 0814 30 0914 July 2008 (new) DATE TIME 1 1020 2 1127 3 1231 4 1332 5 1426 6 1516 7 1602 8 1645 9 1728 JUNE & JULY 2008 OF THE MOON MERIDIAN PASSAGE MERIDIAN PASSAGE DATE TIME (new) 1 0931 2 1030 3 1135 4 1242 5 1349 6 1451 7 1547 8 1638 9 1724 10 1808 11 1849 12 1931 13 2013 14 2058 15 2144 16 2233 (full) 17 2323 18 0000 19 0015 20 0106 21 0156 Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will make Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this and next month, will help you calculate the tides. to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward. Times given are local. charts. Fair tides! where, y to take me an g oin g . And they are way different now! . And they are way different new (for me) sailboat that was new (for me) sailboat that y rewire where I can see and get at every inch. Now, wires run ht m g — more storage room!

voila

Back then, I spent countless hours insulating my top-access icebox. I have since The boat designer’s clever plan in the salon was to have a “table in your stomach” Back then, I neatly hid stuff like wires to stereo speakers and feed lines for weather- No, it is not pretty but it works, and I have delivered too many pretty boats that I once stood on my head for a whole day cleverly hiding the fresh-water pump After using a bucket in every craft I had owned up to that point, here I was blessed After using a bucket in every craft I had owned up to that After two different friends on separate occasions took a header down below and hit After two different friends on separate occasions took A brand-new engine required the absolute removal (as in grinding out) of the old the absolute removal (as in grinding out) of the old A brand-new engine required When I bought the boat, there were these Levelor blinds on the salon windows that were these Levelor blinds on the salon windows that When I bought the boat, there I brought that derelict of 14 years up to the same boat that has successfully 14 years up to the same boat that has successfully I brought that derelict of Graduating from a 1934 hard-chined, moldy, wooden Southern Yacht Club “Gulf OneGraduating from a 1934 hard-chined, When I first bought my new (for me) sailboat that was going to take me anywhere, (for me) sailboat that was going to take me anywhere, When I first bought my newWhen I first bou ‘Not pretty, but it works’ in heavy weather Above: Shoulder- and waist-high rails prevent injury below berth Top right: The former dining table is now a permanent given up all manner of refrigeration, and now eat mostly fresh vegetables that last without refrigeration (e.g. onions, garlic, cabbage, peppers, celery and plantains.) My icebox now stores anything that should not get too hot, like olive oil, tahini, popcorn, vitamins, nuts and honey. When the two-inch insulation on the underside of the lid fell off, dinette layout. With a 3/8-inch speed wrench, it became a big double berth pretty much right in the middle of the boat. The third time I cranked that thing down, it stayed down forever. That’s now my double bed in the meta-center of the boat, which is amazingly motion-free in the roughest of conditions, while out towards to the ends of the boat things can move around pretty radically. I have since taken out the cen- tral leg, which was in the way of storing things underneath. chart plotters behind trim. Now, as the equipment quits (and it all does!), I just leave the old wiring and do a did not work. And the best part is, my boat is no longer pretty enough to rob. under a quarter berth, which all too soon became the garage. The second time I had to work on it, I spent another day re-plumbing it inside the engine box. I had no sor- row the next two times I had to work on it. In an almost mirror image, I spent an equal amount of time wiring my voltage regulator and engine-compartment exhaust fan under the other quarter berth, which all too soon became my closet. Suffice it to say, it is no longer that way now. everywhere. I use regular, grounded extension cords for AC and fat-tipped polarized zip cords for DC. It’s a five-minute job to change them when they go bad (and all wires go bad). There are 12-volt terminal blocks exposed on every major bulkhead where I can wire and undo anything I wish with the turn of two screws and also check voltage with the touch of a multi-meter. with beautiful porcelain Perko toilet, complete with bronze piping straight out of with beautiful porcelain Perko toilet, complete with “for good”, I did small projects 1964. Still practicing law and earning money to leave great unknown. One inspired at night while readying the boat for all battles with the crapper, and spend nearly 70 brainstorm was to polish and clear-Imron that classic had to take that artwork apart bucks on a rebuild kit and manual. The second time I never needed a manual or because it got clogged, I recalled nostalgically that I had spare parts for a bucket, which is stupid-simple to troubleshoot. The masterpiece left the boat and was replaced by a beautiful, varnished, lidded, mahogany-seated bucket, which — except for once when I stepped on the rope — has worked without fail. (BIG TIP: Always, and I mean without fail, hold the coiled rope in your hand.) the side of the boat skull first, I screwed wooden “U” brackets into that beautiful the side of the boat skull first, I screwed wooden “U” shoulder-high and waist- (well, practical anyway) teak veneer and now have drop-in moving about down below high rails running the length of the salon, which makes while going to weather an injury-free task. engine mounts and laying up lower ones. I had to enlarge the engine box, too, as the lower ones. I had to enlarge the engine box, too, as engine mounts and laying up the one inch higher and two inches farther forward than new engine sat (of course) day being so bummed out that it ruined my whole old one. I distinctly remember the be covered with one 4x8 sheet of teak veneer, but because the new box could have a horizontal grain pattern. Hah! That was then! vertical panel was going to were near to top of my list of things to remove till a few friends commented on how of things to remove till a few friends commented on how were near to top of my list I would not trade them for gold (well, maybe gold). They much they liked them. Now the you can still see out through the slits. They are about knock the sunlight up but only things I didn’t change. brought me single-handed to the Caribbean three times. It’s tough as a truck. brought me single-handed Design” classic, I remember being instantly sold on the old Pearson Vanguard when I being instantly sold on the old Pearson Vanguard when Design” classic, I remember dry paper bag in drop storage, not to mention a brand-newfound an absolutely crispy, the old Atomic Four lying on the cabin sole. Kubota diesel engine replacing

things were going to be different

Then and Now, or… Would You Rob This Boat? This You Rob Would or… and Now, Then by John St. John JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 24) VIENNA 23) VOUCHER 21) VULFE 20) VOYAGE 19) VORTEX 18) VIRGO 15) VOYOL 14) VERNAL 13) VENUS 10) VISINE 9) VON 8) VOLUNTEER 7) VIGIA 4) VVV 2) VERVE ACROSS Crossword Solution usually busylife. sails, sitbackinthecockpitandenjoysomecalmyour on repairinganyweakareasinyouronboardsystems. month forboatbusiness.Makethemostofit. rest ofthemonth. creative voyages.Thiswillhelpkeepyourwayonforthe in thefirstweek,thisisagoodtimetomakeplansfornew in thelastweek. for anewloveinterest,whowillsailintoyouranchorage the lasttwo. and thenadefinitebecalmedattitudeonyourpartduring vibes carryyouthroughtherestofmonth. a get-togetherwithfriendsatthistimeandletthegood is underfullsailduringthebeginningofmonth.Have headed towardtherocksbyend. ing smoothlyatthebeginningofthismonth,itcouldbe sense ofhumorshouldhelpyoutosailthroughclarity. negative effectonyourcreativity—ifyouallowitto.Your have clearskiesandsmoothseasduringthesecondhalf. during thefirsthalfofmonth,yourlovelifeshould enjoy itnow. month yourlovelifecouldbehittingroughweather,so has atemporaryeffectonbusiness. for thetidetoturn.Don’tbesurprisedifallnegativity of talkwillhelp—besttothrowoutananchorandwait This shouldbeaquiettimeforyou.Timetofurlthe This monthyoushouldconcentrateonboatbusinessand Family andfriendswillhelptomakethisaverygood Though yourenergymaybeinthedoldrums,especially Get youronboardprojectsoutofthewaytomakeroom There maybesuddensquallsforthefirsttwoweeks, While yourenergyforboatworkislow,spiritoffun Keep aneyeonyourcourse.Whilelovelifeissail- Communications willbegarbledandthiscouldhavea Although communicationsandcreativityareinirons Enjoy yourcompanionswhileaspectsallow.Next If yourlovelifeisdriftingtowardstheshoals,noamount JUNE 2008 SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) 17) VICEROY 16) VOYAGERS 15) VERTEX 14) VOLUTE 13) VOLCANO 12) VANITY 11) VIE 10) VOILE 8) VISNE 7) VOLUME 6) VIN 5) VERITAS 4) VIEW 3) VOLUNTARY 1) VII DOWN LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul) 22) VOUT 21) VIVA 20) VRACH 19) VOLLEY 18) VERSE

parlumps marooned NEVER SAY ROGER REALMEN Because we’relistening,too,throughoutthefleet. Cut outthejargon;keepitshortanddiscreet, And pressthebuttonashardyoulike, So beforeyougetholdoftheradiomike But tospellitphoneticallyisaconcern. Rumpleteaser ofConnecticut Some oftheboatnamesaresimplyinsane. And finally,thinkofasensiblename. To blockchannel16you’llbedoingyourbest. The transmitbuttoniseasilypressed: You’re askingfortrouble,I’mwillingtobet. If youcarryaroundaneathand-heldset, A reallygoodsignalisjust“fivebynine”. The RSTcodeissimpleandfine. Means nothingatall;youarequitewrongagain. Signal strengthof“sevenbyten” It’s solelyformakingadigitalcall. For voice,channel70won’tworkatall. Remember thisandyou’venothingtofear. There’s anotherpieceofadviceyoushouldhear. If youtrytodoit,you’reinforsomefun. You justcannotusethetwosystemsasone. As someinternationalonesIcouldname. American channelsarenumberedthesame And takeitfromme,you’renotoneoftheboys. That you’refillingtheairwithsuperfluousnoise, If theydon’thearwithtwocallsit’sterriblyplain Never keepcallingastationinvain; If youchoosetoforgetthisinvaluablerule. You’ll getlostintheetherandsoundfarfromcool, By sayingthechanneltowhichyou’rereferred. When you’reaskedtoswitchchannels,confirmthatyou’veheard To sortyourbookingsandarrangedates. Move toachanneltalkyourmates, It’s amazinghowmanypeopledothat. Six-eight andsixteenarenotforchat, You canalwayssaynothingifyou’reindoubt. Never say“roger”or“overandout”; But it’seversoeasytosoundlikeafool. The VHFisawonderfultool, looksgreatonthestern,

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a : c t i e t b Alexander ___ Humboldt u a a Crossword Solution on page 36 h N ‘Nautical ‘‘Nautical p l Alphabet: V2’ AAlphabet: ACROSS 2) Zest 4) Test signal in Morse Code chart 7) Warning on a navigational sloop 8) Famous 1887 Burgess-designed 9) German tall ship 10) Soother for salty eyes design 13) Paul Johnson’s double-ender 14) Pertaining to spring of capstan 15) Rope used to transfer effort to anchor cable 18) Astrological sign center 19) Whirlpool or whirlwind 20) Trip on the sea coast 21) Whirlpool on Norwegian 23) Proof of payment 24) Sausage city? DOWN 1) 7 in Roman numerals 3) Not obligatory 4) See 5) Standards bureau (Latin for truth) 6) French for wine 7) A ship’s “tonnage” is based on this 8) Neighboring place 10) French for sail 11) Compete 12) Egoism 13) Mont Pelee, for example 14) Type of seashell 15) Corner point of a polygon 16) Sea travelers 17) Governor of colony 18) Stanza 19) Simultaneous discharge of firearms 20) Seaweed used as manure in Channel Islands 21) Spanish for live 22) Jive language Word Search Puzzle solution on page 46 Caribbean Compass 2008

© Word Search Puzzle by Pauline Dolinski

For every cruiser there is the perfect boat. At some time or other, you will see For every cruiser there is the perfect boat. At some time

every one of these boats in the Caribbean. Search for your favorite first. every one of these boats in the Caribbean. Search for Compass Cruising Crossword Cruising Compass JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 their breathsandstoppedfidgeting. morning. “They’recoming!They’recoming!”Themessagerangoutandeveryoneheld colour oftherainbowwereswimmingtoandfrolikeimpatientchildrenonChristmas Seamount wasbuzzingwithexcitementandallfish,bigsmallofevery home themselves. it wasthoughtbesttoletthenewoccupantsputfinishingtouchestheir nies tofill.However,thedecorationsandplantingswerenowherenearcomplete,as beauty ofthewholeconstruction.SeaPearlsbigandsmallfoundnookscran- along withrowsoftenderSeaLettuceanddeepgreenWatercresstoaddthe were open.Green,sweetSeaGrapessoongrowingnicelyinwindowboxes, when needbebyfanningthecolderwatercurrentsintowindowsthey wavering lightfromthesunshiningthroughripplesabove. Corals satliketowersontherooftop,theirfuzzypolypsglowingasoftgoldin castle andwavedtheirlongarmsaboutinabusybodyway. needed too.OfcoursetheLavenderandPurpleRopeSpongesturnedtofacethisnew as mailboxeswhileStrawberryVaseSpongescrowdedaroundincasetheywere beautiful electricbluefrillsandveinssetthemselvesnexttothebigfrontdooract offspring todecoratetheareaaroundnewhome.AzureVaseSpongeswiththeir Sponges werealreadyestablishedontheSeamountandsotheysentoffsomeoftheir look somuchprettierthanours.GoldenTube tered overbyReefCement,theRedAlgaethat coral rockandtheroughedgeshadbeenplas- and Chitonshadburrowedroomsoutofthehard new home.AteamofRock-BoringSeaUrchins a Seamount. there’s alottobesaidformakingyourhomeon predators whovisittheinshorereefs.Yes, live inpeaceandsecurityawayfrommanyofthe permanent homes,havetheirfamiliesthereand these seahilltopsthattheymakethemtheir carried outtosea.Indeed,theythrivesowellon tures ofallsortscanfindarefugeiftheyget populated seaswherereeffishandcrea- ing tokissthesky. ing uptothesunliketopsofmountainstry- rise fromthebottomofnot-so-deepseas,reach- and arereallywonderfulthings;pinnaclesthat are withinthereachofMermenandMermaids surface, theSeamountsIwanttotellyouabout est oceansandneverreachallthatclosetothe Seamounts areoldvolcanoeswayoffinthedeep- Seamount anyway?Now,althoughtrue with goldensunlight? deeps oftheseawhileMermaidsarehappiestincoralhomesreefsthatsparkle a Mermaid.Youhaven’tforgotten,haveyou,thatMermenliketoliveinthecalm There wasaloudcheerasGemandMerryswamuptothecastledoorhandin At lastthedaycamewhenMermaidMerryandGemweretoarrive.Thewhole Venus SeaFansclusteredabouttoo,andtheirjobwastokeepthecastlecool And whataboutturrets?Notruecastleiscompletewithoutthem,sothePillar Now then,backtoMermaidMerryandGem’s These Seamountsareoasesinthescarcely So you’rewonderingwhydidtheychooseaSeamounttoliveon,andwhatis While rocks andreefswheretheycanpulltheir wholebodiesinsideforprotection. neighbours. Spinylobstersaregregarious. Theyliveingroupscrevicesunder aggressive andprefertolivealone.Large malelobsterswillchaseawaysmaller used towarnoffpredators,ratherthan to communicatewitheachother. playing aviolin.Itseemsmostlikelythat thenoisetheyproduceinthiswayis their antennaewhichtheyruboverthebony platesundertheireyes,almostlike against predators. has noclaws:instead,ittwolong,stiffantennaewhichuseslikewhips other hasfinerteethforrippingintothesoftfleshofitsprey.Thespinylobster two largeclaws.Oneclawhassawteethandisusedforcrushingshells:the sters aroundtheworld,ofdifferentshapesandsizes.TheAmericanlobsterhas claws andthespinylobsterdoesnot.Thereareabout30typesofclawedlob- American (MaineorNorthAtlantic)lobsteristhatthehas ster. DOLLY’S DEEPSECRETS Another differenceisinthechoiceofhabitat. Americanlobstersaresolitaryand Spiny lobstersmakeastrangenoisewith theirbodies.Thereisasoftsectionof The mostvisibledifferencebetweentheCaribbeanspinylobsterand The newspeciesofgiantlobsterfoundintheIndianOceanisatypespinylob- Do youknowthedifferencebetweenaspinylobsterandotherlobsters? He llo ! M y n a at workconstructingtheperfecthomeforaMermanand after theirfantasticwedding,busybuildershadbeenhard Mermaid MerryandGemwereoffonasecrethoneymoon

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e a The . by LeeKessell ed. Findthespecialwordwrittenvertically. of course,theymakegreatgourmetdishesforrestaurants! larval forms.Thelobstersallhavehardshellswhichtheyshedasgrow.And, crabs. Alllobstersreproducebylayingeggs,whichhatchintotinyplanktonic too. Theyaresimilarincolourandeatthesamekindofthingslikesmallfish breeding grounds,ortofindwarmerwater,food:nooneisquitesure. This mayhappenwhenastormisapproachingbutitalsobetoreachnew bers. Theyformlinesofasmany60lobstersandmarchawayfromtheirdens. their densduringtheday.But,sometimes,spinylobsterswanderoffingreatnum- spiny andAmericanlobstersdowanderatnightsinsearchofprey,returningto Pillar Coralssatliketowerson the rooftop,theirfuzzypolyps Amazon.com. fied byPaulHumanninhisCaribbeanReefidentificationbooks,availablefrom whenever youswimonashallowreef,remember: living ontheSeamount,butI’lltellyouaboutthemanotherday.Inmeantime, dark deepsandhowtoavoiddanger. the Seamountshowingthemhowtoapproachlargefishthatswamoutof to havesomethingexcitingdowithGemwhotookthemonlongswimsallabout read andwritedosimplearithmetic.Adventurousteenagerswerelikewisehappy clustered aboutMermaidMerryonashelteredledgeinfrontofthecastlelearningto who hadbotheredtheirmothersalldaylongbecausetheynothingtodo,were school forteenagers.Soitwasthatinnotimeatall,thelittlefishandseacreatures on homeandleavetheyoungcouplealone. the newcastle.Everyonecheeredagainandmotherscalledtotheirchildrencome and pickingupMerryinhisstrongarms,swamwithheroverthethresholdinto grinned alloverhishandsomeface,bowedtotheworkers,everyonepresent happily everafterwithhusbandGemrighthereonthisfabulousSeamount. thanked themandsaidhowbeautifulhernewhomewasshewouldlive hand. Merryclappedherhandswithdelightandturnedtoallnewfriends Unscramble thewordstakenfrompassageandwriteinspacesprovid- Word Puzzle Of course,CaribbeanandAmericanlobstershavecharacteristicsincommon, One strangeactivitythatspinylobsterstakepartinismassmigration.Both 5. BRESTOL 4. OTRYSAIL 3. CRIMEANA 2. SCAWL 1. SCORK Note: Allthefish,seacreatures,coralsandplantswithcapitallettersareidenti- THE END. Mermaid MerryandGemhadmanyadventuresoftheirowninfirstyear glowing asoftgold 9. NEATANNE 8. ATOMIRING 7. SECRIVEC 6. BATHITA a cast believe thatshehad h r h l Gem untilheopen cl f n t Mermaid’s Wineglas c h f Corals T of t g and Mermanhavetofindsomethingdoall castle ofherdreams. believe thatshehadreallyfoundtheenchanted her. EverythingpleasedMerryandshecouldn’t rubbing hiseyesandswimmingslowlyafter home atonce!”AndMerryswamoffwithGem leapt outofbed.“Iwanttoseetherestmy Gem untilheopenedhiseyesandthenshe clear indigoseaandshehuggedkissed first sunbeamsthatfiltereddownthroughthe new home. the newlywedstotoasttheirfirstnightin Mermaid’s Wineglasseswerefilledandreadyfor coming upfromawarmspringclosebyand had thoughttocapturethechampagnebubbles fairyland wheredreamscometrue.Someone Corals filledeveryspace,makingtherooma The whiteandblush-pinkblossomsofSoft of suchachamberandMerrywasnoexception. to seehowshelikedit.Everyyounggirldreams gave Merryahugandkisssetherdown eapt outofbed.“I irst sunbeamsthat air he newlywedsto o seehowsheliked ubbing hiseyesa omin ave Merrya nd Mermanhavet he whiteandblu er. Everyt ome atonce!”And ew home. a ear in suchachamber But T Wh But youknow,eventhehappiestMermaid The nextmorningMerrywasawakewiththe When Gemswamintothebridalchamberhe d h y t l e nextmorning land wheredre e en h

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JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 — immediate delivery! Same price, same content Peter Ashby Canada 12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95 Join our growing list of on-line subscribers! www.caribbeancompass.com Dear Compass, Congratulations on your paper, which goes from strength to strength!

, on the Genesis Genesis. Pipe Dream, Brilliant Girl, Imagine

by Alexis Andrews is available in select island bookshops from the Documents Documents Genesis. BOOK REVIEW BY LUCY TULLOCH BY LUCY BOOK REVIEW Photographer Photographer Carriacou Sloops Carriacou Carriacou Sloops A fascinating note on the photography: Alexis’ favourite camera — very appropri- It is like a birth. And the stories and the images will make you laugh; they will More traditions at the launch ceremony with more blood and rum smeared onto Turning these pages filled with striking photographs, you begin to know the char- Wonderful stories are told of the setting-up ceremony with sacrificial blood, rum, This book will take you to Carriacou. Volume II: Genesis – Building a Traditional Carriacou Sloop The story of the creation of Alexis’ 40-foot Carriacou sloop, from the felling of the He captures the spirit of the Carriacou Regatta for us, the irrelevant start times for Alexis tells stories of boatbuilders such as Hope McLawrence, who bought his first Alexis tells stories of boatbuilders such as Hope McLawrence, Vanishing terms such as caulking irons, boom jaws, adze and deadeyes appear, Vanishing terms such as caulking irons, boom jaws, Volume I: Vanishing Ways – Sailing on the last Carriacou Sloops Volume I: Vanishing Ways in in Carriacou while researching for his PhD From his first visit to Windward A stunning two-book set has arrived. Published by the author’s company, Indian arrived. Published by the author’s company, Indian A stunning two-book set has end of June and online at www.IndianCreekBooks.com. ately — is his vintage Hasselblad, which has no electronic parts. He uses film that has a timeless quality, including a rare black-and-white transparency film called Scala. It seems then, that these ways have not vanished. amaze you and they will move you almost to tears. important parts of the boat, prayers and blessings, liquor libations for the vessel and plenty of Jack Iron, too, for the creators and builders of acters nearly as well as if you’d met them and worked with them on this dream. Expressions are caught and stories recounted in a blow-by-blow account of the astonishing build, including terrifying reports of finding a termite nest in the damp recesses of the bilge and a series of threatening hurricanes passing through the Grenadines during the boat’s construction. and the old people “mumbling important words”. first West Indian White Cedar at the right phase of the moon, through the patience and sheer hard work required to complete this enormous task. the races, the blowing of a conch bringing the crew to their newly painted vessels, the captain’s shout “le’ we go...” that marks the real start of the race. and, of course, ten dollars for her, and with boat when he was almost nine years old, paying around to the Tobago Cays for a few sails made from sewn-together flour bags, sailed up days’ fishing. along with the vessels’ romantic names, such as social anthropology, to the present day, Alexis gives insight into the history of the present day, Alexis gives insight into the history of social anthropology, to the their ways and values, their fishing and their seafaring, island and its people, tells of traditions of their boatbuilding. It is the photogra- their trading and the deep-rooted is renowned for — that captures the texture of this island. phy — indeed, what Alexis sail these boats, the tight lan- Images that show every deep wrinkle of the men who down an ancient hat, with yard knotted under the old man’s leathery chin, holding a steady hand on the sawn-off tiller. beach at Windward, Carriacou. Creek Books, Antigua-based photographer Alexis Andrews devotes the first book to photographer Alexis Andrews devotes the first book Creek Books, Antigua-based building of the Grenadine island of Carriacou’s working the age-old traditions of the to their Vanishing Ways”. In the second, he cata- sloops, which he calls a “Tribute build of his own 40-foot Carriacou sloop, logues the year-and-a-half

JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40

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back (TwentiethCenturyClassics). incidentally, istolddirectlybytheformergoverness. dancers; itisatitsfinestinthedescriptionofvolcano’seruption,which, not rator’s voice.Itisatitsmostextremeintheaccountofballandcostumed is aBaroquestylethatreflectscultivated,mandarinlearning,especiallyinthenar- tor summarizingtoMademoiselledeRennesactivelyrecalling. rative shiftswithconsummateskillfrompasttopast-presenttense,thenarra- sketches andpaintingsshehadmadesentbacktoanauntinFrance.Thenar- incredible story,notwithoutthevisualaidsofcommonplace-booksandalbums of evening conversationsoverouzowhilethenarratorwaitsforaferry,shetells her the islandtoserveasgovernesshisfivechildren.Incourseoftwoweeks of have beenapoordistantrelativeoftheCount,who,atage18,in1896,wentoutto It isfromthispointthatthetalebeginstounfold.MademoiselledeRennesproves mid-day heat,andintheroomheseesapaintingoffabulousislandAntilles. olive groves.BerthedeRennesshowsherguesttoaroomfornapescapethe he happenstomeetacharmingseptuagenarianartistlivingpeacefullyamongthe Greece, inavillageonthesouthwestcornerofLesbos,overlookingAsiaMinor,when that wegetthetale.RecentlyreturnedfromWestIndies,narratorisin island breaksupandsinkslikeAtlantis,takingwithittheentirepopulation. Salpetrière, thevolcano,growshotterandmoreactive,untilitfinallyerupts.The ripe forsatirebutaCreolevarietyof are discovereddancingwitheveryone! daughter runsoff(wouldn’tyouknow?)withthegovernor’sson;andmaskedlepers planter andthegovernor;oldestmalechildofCountthreatenssuicide;a politan administrationandadueltoresolvetheirdifferencesisarrangedbetween basket tothehorrorofguests,butCreolesquirearchyconfrontsmetro- course ofit,notonlyisa of thetale,whileCarnivalishappeninginPlessis,agrandballtakesplace.In was outtorecreatealostsocietybutnotwithouthavinggooddealoffun. for change,all,includingtheCount,arecaricatures.LeighFermor,aFrancophile, man ofgreatgoodwillandappetite.Whilesomethecharactershaveenoughdepth anachronistic utopia,presidedoverbythepaternalistic,royalistCount,aRenaissance Scarcely affectedbythemarchoftime,Saint-JacquesisakindGardenEden,an headed bytheCountdeSerindananditsseatisfabulousgreat-house,Beauséjour. souls, aprincipalport,Plessis,andplantersquirearchy.Thefamilyis southeast ofGuadeloupeandnorthwestDominica,hasapopulation42,000 Saint-Jacques desAlisés.Saint-Jacques,whichliesaccordingtotheendpaperchart Tuesday, thedaybeforeLentbegins,in1902,onimaginaryFrenchislandof including novel LeighFermorhaspublished;inlateryearshepublishedothertravelbooks, slight insizeandconsideredbymanycritics,thoughstillprint.Itistheonly eerie sound—athatyou,perhaps, sailinginthearea,haveheard? tradewind fillstheschooner’ssailsand violins playingattheballfillwindwith proves alsoametaphorbutonfargrander scale. elist, LeighFermorajournalistand,truly, apoet.ForleSalpetrière,hisvolcano, towards independenceand,itwashoped, stability.Waughwasajournalistandnov- colonies astheywerewhen grantedstatehoodstatusasafirststep cal —theexplosionabouttohappenis socialandpolitical,reflectingtheBritish as thevolcanoonSaint-Jacquesisgeological, theoneonSantaMartaismetaphori- the northWindwardsandresemblingSt.Lucia,isalsoavolcanicisland;butwhere- Alex Waugh’s another Englishman’snovelofthetimefeaturinganimaginaryAntilleanisland — that topicisbeyondthescopeofthisreview.Still,itmostinterestingtorecall parts, atoncecomicandsentimental. through itspyrotechnicphases.Thenovel’sendcomesintwosurprising,lovely Mademoiselle deRennesfindsherselfasashfallslikesnowandthevolcanogoes the positionofCarriacouschooneranchoredinoffing,aboardwhich The ViolinsofSaint-Jacques, The writingstyle,whichisentirelytypicalofLeighFermor,notforeveryone. It Like SaintPierre,Saint-Jacqueshadonesurvivor,anditisthroughthissurvivor It dawnsononegraduallythattheglitteringsocietyofSaint-Jacquesisnotonly Into thegarden,however,slitherssnake,literallyandfiguratively.Onday A satiricalhistoricalnovel, This bookisavailablefromAmazon.com. You willnotbedisappointedtolearn what thisisatthestory’send,as While Saint-Jacquessuggeststheplaceofislandsinliterature,realandimagined, gh Lh lh lt blihd i h lLihF t insizean Minor Masterpiece ATimeofGifts IslandintheSun BOOK REVIEWBYRICHARDDEY d consi of theAntilles A Forgotten d (1977),forwhichheisnowchieflyknown. ere ferdelance d s l TheViolinsofSaint-Jacques i gh (1955). SantaMarta,aBritishcolonysomewherein byPatrickLeighFermor.Oxford,1985,Tradepaper- t b y man Violi of h get i ated be was r over h imag n was i of t was 200 writ (195 r a tri bor of his mind. get it,anditssurprisingCreoleculture,outof ated it,andmaybeLeighFermorjustcouldn’t before Mt.Peléeeruptedin1902andobliter- was St.Pierre,“theParisoftheWestIndies,” random staircasetonowhere.Maybeitsname over andallbutforgotten,evidentonlyina had been,andnotonlythatbutaruinbuilt- imagine. Maybeitwasaruinedshellofwhat not ashehadbeenledthroughhisreadingto wasn’t reallythereor,ifitwas,maybewas investigative sensibility.Maybetheplace of thatextraordinaryAntilleansojourn. was anotherthingforhimtodo,inthewake 2001 andJanuary2002.)Butitseemsthere written. (See (1950), asfineatravelbookhaseverbeen resulted famouslyin a tripthroughtheWestIndiesin1946that born in1915andlivingtodayGreece,made Violins ofSaint-Jacques nve an esu released bytheCount’syoungestsonfroma f i ad ot TheTravellers’Tree W I What to do? Three years after the publication What todo?Threeyearsafterthepublication It seemstherewasoneplacethatdefiedhis Patrick LeighFermor,theEnglishwriter s f t Th o

fin-de-siècle h n d m h 1 n t a n s r s t y 0 CaribbeanCompass Compass decadence.Allthewhilele takesplaceonShrove , Fermorpublished TheTravellers’Tree readerswillappreciate , a little-known novel , alittle-knownnovel , December The The JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 needs REPRESENTATIVE PORT OF ENTRY HAPPY HOUR 5-6 TOURS ARRANGED MOORING FACILITIES BAR AND RESTAURANT WATER, ICE, SHOWERS WATER, ICE, CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED CARIBEE BATIK - BOUTIQUE CARIBEE BATIK ... and ask for Stan or Miguel! stainless steel SAILS & CANVAS frames at competitive prices BEQUIA VHF Ch 16 & 68 VHF Ch (range limited by the hills) CUSTOM-MADE St. Vincent & The Grenadines Big Blue Building West Indies. WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL WALLILABOU ANCHORAGE VHF 68, Telephone 784-457-3361 WALLILABOU including E-mail: [email protected] GRENADINES GRENADINES BIMINI & DODGER Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) Open Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage available. P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & Look for the SAILSCANVAS & The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia,

Come in and see us for all your Bequia Marina Located opposite G.Y.E. (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) Ch16/68 e-mail: [email protected] VHF These guides

Cruising Guide includes over a covers the islands and the by Chris Doyle. © 2007 by Chris Doyle. , Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands LEEWARDS GUIDE LEEWARDS , and exploring ashore, to update each and every edition. As well as being Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands, Cruising Guide to the Leeward Sailors Guide to the Windward Available at bookstores and chandleries or from www.cruisingguides.com. Chris spends months sailing these islands aboard his Trinidad-built catamaran, The newest edition of the This tenth edition of the “Our guides are updated approximately every other year to make sure cruisers “Since then we allied ourselves with other cruising guide authors. Our rigorous “Since then we allied ourselves Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands, 2008-2009: A Complete Guide for 2008-2009: A Complete to the Leeward Islands, Cruising Guide was created by Simon and Nancy Scott while living Cruising Guide Publications “Twenty years ago, we teamed up with Chris Doyle, the popular cruising author “Twenty years ago, we teamed Simon and Nancy say, “We have made it our mission to answer all the questions Simon and Nancy say, “We 10TH EDITION OF DOYLE’S OF DOYLE’S EDITION 10TH hundred up-to-date color sketch charts, full-color aerial photos of most anchor- ages, scenic island photos, and detailed shoreside information covering services, restaurants, provisioning, travel basics and island history. Information is linked to Chris’s website (www.doyleguides.com) where you can download the GPS way- points given in the sketch charts, learn of essential updates, print town maps, and obtain links to local weather, news and businesses. Ti Kanot from Anguilla to Dominica, a group of both well-known and seldom-visited islands including St. Martin and St. Maarten, Saba, Sint Eustatius (Statia), St. Christopher (St. Kitts), Nevis, Redonda, Montserrat, Antigua, Barbuda, Guadeloupe, Marie Galante, Les Iles des Saintes (The Saintes) and Dominica. It is an essential tool for cruisers sailing this region. an active sailor, Chris loves to dive. He is often seen hiking or riding his bicycle around the countryside. He enjoys both eating at local restaurants and cooking with fresh island ingredients aboard (especially if he caught the fish himself!). A Ph.D. in Psychology, he is also a keen photographer, and his original images add a lot to the quality of his books. His love of the Eastern Caribbean islands, and his long familiarity with them (he sailed across from his native England in the 1960s), shows on every page. are armed with up-to-date information for their journey.” guidelines require the authors to spend a considerable amount of time on location to spend a considerable amount of time on location guidelines require the authors so that our readers have a safe, informed and checking and rechecking details Our authors have a dedication to details, and a love of therefore enjoyable cruise. sailing the islands they research. to Venezuela and Bonaire. Yachtsmen, Divers and Watersports Enthusiasts Divers and Watersports Yachtsmen, British Virgin Islands, and later, working in the bare- aboard their sailboat in the years. They saw a need for comprehensive guides to boat charter industry for 20 exploring the Caribbean island chain. aid cruisers and charterers Cruising Guide Publications and Chris Doyle. Soft cover, spiral bound, 6” x 9”, 529 Soft cover, spiral bound, Publications and Chris Doyle. Cruising Guide US$34.95. ISBN 0-944428-80-0. and sketch charts throughout. pages, color photos of the Tobago and Barbados, Islands, Cruising Guide to Trinidad, we had from charterers and cruisers and to add details and background about the cruisers and to add details and background about the we had from charterers and experience. islands to enhance the cruising include not only navigational information, but also the rich history of the Caribbean information, but also the rich history of the Caribbean include not only navigational fauna, as well as where to go for diving, snorkeling islands, folklore, the flora and and, of course, what to do in an emergency. and shoreside entertainment JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 ning rod.Therehadbeennotakesinthefirstfew and wasfreeliningitinthecurrentusinglightspin- to sailonCarriacou.I’dslicedoneofthefilletsintwo spot ofearlymorningfishingbeforeweweighedanchor Island atthesoutheasttipofUnion,Iwasenjoyinga to twofilletsandconsignedthefridge. herring population,sothehaplessvictimwasreduced precedence overanyfurtherincursioninthethreadfin In thefailinglight,prospectofasundownertook tined toplaysuchanimportantroleinfutureevents. And sodisrespectfulofthelittlefellowwhowasdes- fall through.Theyjustcan’thelpthemselves,canthey? be carefulwhichwayIplaceditonthegrillorwould adulation, HerBelowpointedoutthatIwouldneedto Holding ittriumphantlyaloft,expectantofpraiseand — athreadfinherring,everybitofsixincheslong. — nothugebyanystandards.Well,quitesmallreally this case.Itworked.WithinafewminutesIhadfish Hokki shrimpsabovethejig,aWilliamsonGyroJigin fish nochancewhatsoeverIattachedastringofsmall a fishgrabsthelureoryourarmdropsoff.Togive to flutterbackdownagain.Continuethisprocessuntil the rodtipfairlysmartly,thenlowerit,allowinglure the luretobottom,windinaturnonreel,lift designed lureclosetotheseabed.Thetrickislower jigging (no,notthat)fromthecockpit. comments, Ithoughtitmightbeworthtryingaspotof back at of therecentpurchasehadspreadfaritseemed. able insuchsituations,wastotallyignored.Rumours floating lure(aYo-ZuriHydroPopper),usuallydepend- confidence washigh.Mistakenly,asitturnedout.My creating panicamongstthebaitfishwhereverIlooked, in thedinghywithalightspinningrod.Withtuna as soonwehad ened toseeloadsoffishyactivityonthesurface.Just avoid cooking.Theycanbesocruel,women. be doing.MarysaidIwasdoingitonpurpose,justto fish hadfingers,Icouldguesswhattwoofthemwould and givingourspreadoftrollingluresawideberth.If quarter-rail hadthemnoddingwiselytoeachother, appearance oftheshinynewbarbecueon the Caribbeanareclear—fishcanseeformiles.The sizzling onthebarbiethatevening.Butwatersof the freshdoradosteaksthatwouldundoubtedlybe sage forUnionIsland,mythoughtswerealreadyon a Magmabarbecueandlargebagofcharcoal. siastic Mary,lateremerging$200poorerandclutching was whiskedofftothechandlerybyasuddenlyenthu- fish onit.BeforeIcouldretractthiscasualremark, said that,ofcourse,ifwehadabarbieIwouldcookthe stand. ButIdocatchfish,andinathoughtlessmoment There’s nothingchauvinisticaboutme,youunder- Mary, assheendsupenslavedtothegascookerbelow. Now I’mnotmuchofacook,whichisn’tgoodnewsfor intent ondoingbadthingstous.Ergo—nobarbie. those littlecarcinogenslurkinginthecharredmeat, anchorage Iwantedone—Marydidn’t,consciousofall aromas andhappychortlingthatdriftedacrossthe IT IT A coupleofdayslater,nowanchoredoffFrigate Jigging involvesraisingandloweringaspecially Now wehunter-gatherersnevergiveup,soarriving On droppingthehookinChathamBayIwasheart- As wesailedoutofAdmiraltyBay,Bequia,onpas- Our stock,quality,price,know-howand fishingexperienceisunsurpassed YOUR #1CHOICEINFISHINGGEAR Mustad Hooks FISHING &DIVINGGEAR Penn &Diawa Anglers Lures Rods &Reels TACKLE SHOP Alacazam

but we didn’t. Tantalised by the smoky but wedidn’t.Tantalisedbythesmoky the otherboatsinanchoragehadone, accurately, thelackofone.Justaboutall

TEL: (784)458-3420FAX: 458-3797 all started with the barbecue, or more all startedwiththebarbecue,ormore LULLEY‘S , fishlessandreadytofendoffsarky Alacazam Wire, Floats,Nets,Twines,Ropes EMAIL: [email protected] Visit usforallyourneeds safelyanchored,Iwasoff DUTY FREE Foul WeatherGear Rigged &Unrigged Fresh Bait Leaders SERVING FISHERMENAND Alacazam’s FRONT STREET WEST INDIES YACHTSPEOPLE BEQUIA SINCE 1950

Long Way Irwin tragedy in mind, neither of us was keen to get too Irwin tragedyinmind,neitherofuswaskeentogettoo “hangover” forthebarbie,Marysaid.WithSteve from wingtiptowingtip.Probablyatadtoomuch what itwas—alargestingray,aboutfivefeet(1.5m) Huge fun.Ohhowwelaughed!ButnowIcouldsee bing, arm-wrenchingprocedurecouldberepeated. rather bebackwherehewas,sotheentiretoe-stub- selves onthesamesideofboathe’ddecide the outsideofbimini.Assoonaswefoundour- surge aheadhadmeclamberingpoledancer-likearound dan-buoy andthegantrycouldgetinvolved,a from porttostarboardmeantthatthebackstay, with alittlelucktheself-steeringgeartoo.Changing ghy and the dinghy’soutboard.Byswimmingbetweendin- in circlesunderthesternhecouldhooklinearound enjoy himself.Hediscoveredthatbyswimmingaround back, Ifeltwasbeginningtowinthestruggle. minutes orsoofrecoveringline,thenhavingtogiveit to Carriacouaheadofschedule.Butafterabout20 was unavoidable.Soonwhateveritwas,onitsway dissuade itfromdoingso—Ihadtogivelineorabreak ing Icoulddowiththelightrodand15-poundlineto the “seabed”startedtomoveoff,andtherewasnoth- the fixed-spoolreelandwastryingtopullitfree,when leaving therodunattended.Itightenedclutchon to thebait.Damn!Caughtonseabed.Myfaultfor steaming cuppa,Iliftedtherodgentlytoaddsomelife put thekettleon.Backincockpit,sipping holder, slackenedthedragrightoffandwentbelowto minutes, andfancyingabrew,Iputtherodin Collectable Knives Later, now close to the boat, the fish really started to Later, nowclosetotheboat,fishreallystarted Herring Courtesy Flags & DivingGear A Little Goes a Snorkeling Alacazam Gotcha! by DickMcClary he could involve the painter, and hecouldinvolvethepainter,and Dinghy Accessories * Waterproofing * Aqua Signal *Imray lolaire Charts Apelco *Harken *Sta-lok316SSRiggingCordage * West System*Shields Weblon *Clear Vinyl *Canvaswork Supplies*MarincoGarminUniden Boatlife *StarbriteCamp Zincs*MarinePadlocks *Orion *Sunbrella Racor * Wix *Shurflo*Johnson Pumps *3-MFlags *Perko *JabscoGroco Seachoice *Marpac Teleflex * Tempo *RitchieBreeze * Whale * Ancor Marlin BottomPaint *DelcoUnderwater MetalKit*Z-SparCetolMercury NEW AT XANADUMARINE: DISCOUNTS ON ARTIGIANA BATTELLI CORNER OFMIRANDA &GUARAGUAO E-mail: [email protected] Standby VHF Channel72 TELEPHONE: (58)(281)265-3844FAX: (58)(281)265-2448 and Nadineon tions, withourapologiesringinginits,er,ears. as shedared.Itswamaway,nonetheworseforitsexer- alongside theboatMarycutlineasclosetofish close tothisimpressivecreature,sowhenwehadit antics on now hiddenunderabluecanvascover.Iputtwotroll- they said),wesetsailforCarriacou,withthebarbie —Continuedonnextpage ed tosing.It’shardwork,thisfishing. while Iwasre-riggingitthatthe50-poundoutfitstart- windward outfitandbroughtintheleewardone.Itwas mono leaderhadbeenbittenthrough.Ire-deployedthe clear signthatallwasnotgoingtoplan.The50-pound the reelstoppedsingingandrodstraightenedup,a loodygaff” whileIstartedtogettheotherlurein.Then dsaildisconnecttheselfsteeringtakethehelmwhere’stheb vention hadn’tdiscourageditintheslightest. This wasagoodfishandstilltakingline;myinter- much asIdared,thenreturnedtherodtoitsholder. struck hardtosetthehookandtighteneddragas began tosing,withlinepouringoffitlickety-split.I us aroundfiveknots. ing underareefedmainandyankeeonly,whichgave herring fillet.Notbeinginanygreatrush,weweresail- trolling feathertoppedoffwiththeotherhalfof and theleewardonea30-poundoutfitriggedwith rigged withadeep-divingRapalaXRapMagnumlure ing rodsout,thewindwardonea50-poundoutfit

After explainingourselvestoourneighbours,Murray I gaveclear,conciseinstructionstoMary:“furlthehea Just fourmilesout,thereelonleewardrod AMERON ABC 3 TIN FREE ANTIFOULING PAINT Alacazam THE CRUISING BY OUREXPERIENCEDSTAFF • PERSONALIZEDATTENTION Squiz! MAINTENANCE PRODUCTS CHANDLERY • REPLACEMENTPARTS& (“itwasworthgettingupearlyfor”, SINCE 1990 SAILOR’S

, whohadenjoyedthecurious AND CARIBEDINGHYS ,PUERTO LACRUZ, VENEZUELA

JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43

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s c i But what of our little hero, the threadfin herring, We gaffed the barracuda and got it aboard. Jonas andbarracuda and got it aboard. We gaffed the of, the bar- you’d want to make a pet It’s not a fish feet of dead barracuda? But what to do with five n i toxin found in many reef fish and predators that feed toxin found in many reef fish and predators that feed on reef fish. It collects in the fish’s liver, so an old, large fish is more likely to have accumulated a danger- ous amount of it than a small, young one. If you’re unlucky enough to eat a fish that has it, then you could be in for a very torrid time. It’s generally accept- ed that it’s only present in the resident fish popula- tions of the northern part of the Caribbean chain. South of Guadeloupe incidences of ciguatera poison- ing are very rare indeed. But a fish the size of this barracuda may have travelled far, and could just be down south on holiday. The good people of Carriacou though, having eaten it for years, are made of sterner stuff. A quick call on the VHF, picked up ashore by a taxi driver, soon had a grateful islander, Sharwin, alongside to collect the fish. who although having failed to provide anything for the barbie, went a long way towards it in tempting three good fish — one we cut away, one that got away and one we gave away. Well, according to Sharwin, indi- rectly he fed 40 people. Nobody died. anyone who cared to watch. Sometimes I wish we cared to watch. Sometimes anyone who with white her bright yellow. Blue hadn’t painted been better. flecks might have been among to welcome us in, having Ylva were there about?” Jonas“What on earth was all that our audience. he spotted else in Swedish when said, and something sole. taking up most of the cockpit the barracuda a piscatorial uncuddly. Not so much racuda. Distinctly cross — and this spaniel, more a rottweiler/alligator of Jack Iron rum poured one looked very cross. A slug it quickly and humane- directly into the gills had killed any malicious intent. ly before it could carry out especially large ones, Many cruisers won’t eat them, poisoning. Ciguatera is a owing to the risk of ciguatera l in association with

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not beennot seasick once this e n s s y June thru September i to be held in Trinidad a l u c e r Painless process Painless process Completely non-invasive Drug free Lasting results a S J Call to schedule appointments C Waveney Richards, M. App. Sci., M.A. M. App. Richards, Waveney ofStreet, Port Spain 2A Roberts Tobago and Trinidad     k l? N ith f t t l It Above: Our anchorange neigh- bours thought my fishing antics were worth getting up early for Left: Tempted by a little herring, this barracuda was too big for the barbie east to enter the anchorage. I was east to enter the main, and at the mast dropping and tidying away Mary was helming and other assorted the sheets been string. My next job would have By the to bring the trolling gear in. the fish time I got back to the rod or so must have been 300 yards the hook astern, and trucking. I set a and hung on. In the distance into the long, lean fish leaped high was again providing huge entertainment to We had passed inside Sisters Rocks, and had turned inside Sisters Rocks, and We had passed fillet. Brown boobies, always a welcome attraction for always a welcome fillet. Brown boobies, presence of were much in evidence. The this skipper, are fish birds usually means there these diving But it didn’t, ready for it to happen. around, so I was until I wasn’t. air. A wahoo? King mackerel? Neither unfortunately. It air. A wahoo? King mackerel? Neither unfortunately. It turned out to be a barracuda, and a big one. Mary had two objectives; to keep the fish astern, and off the reefs that border the anchorage and the shoal that’s in the middle of it. The fish was doing little to help, which I thought was pretty unsporting of it, but my instructions were again clear and concise. She doesn’t know how lucky she is. With our main half- down and our slalom-like approach to the anchorage, Alacazam . Lena Continued from previous page Continued from We anchored in Hillsborough Bay and met up again This time my opponent was outgunned and I’d soon opponent was outgunned This time my with our Swedish friends Jonas and Ylva on Great company, with or without barbecued Spanish mackerel, which we all agreed provided a very tasty dinner. Next morning we set off for Tyrell Bay anchor- age, just around the headland. Hardly far enough to raise the sails, so we put in a leg out to sea, to make sail of it. And of course I still had that herring fillet in the fridge. I set up the 30-pound outfit with a blue and white tuna feather, adorned with the whole herring netted my catch — a Spanish mackerel. From a culi- — a Spanish mackerel. netted my catch there with view, these rate right up nary point of for the in my view, and perfect dorado and wahoo the barbie. christening of — JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 CARRIACOU REALESTATE Property ManagementonCarriacou The FoodFairhasitallandalotmore. or afineselectionofliquorandwine, or fruits,toiletries,householdgoods, products, meat,freshvegetables Whether it’scannedgoods,dairy conveniently locatedsupermarkets. best pricesinGrenadaatourtwo on thewidestselectionand Stock Up JONAS BROWNE&HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. Hubbard’s Tel: (473)4438182Fax: 4438290 e-mail: [email protected] We alsohandleVilla Rentals& or contactCarolyn Alexanderat For fulldetailsseeourwebsite: Land andhousesforsale www.islandvillas.com Down IslandLtd Tel: (473)444-4573 until 7:00pm Friday &Saturday 9 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday Grand Anse: Tel: (473)440-2588 1:00 pm Saturday until Friday until8:45pm 8 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday The Carenage: became the“KeyLime”. Spanish explorerssailedthelimetoFloridawhereit supposedly plantedthefirstlimeseedsinHispaniola. it andintroducedtotheMediterranean.Columbus Middle Eastwherethe12thcenturyCrusadersfound globe. ArabtraderscarriedthelimefromIndiato has evolvedandtraveledtoalltropicalpartsofthe nated inSouthernAsia.Thousandsofyearslaterit chicken andfish,oraddtomysundowncocktail. flesh firmandopaque. only flavorsfishorseafood,itsacidactually cooksthe tomatoes, chadonbeneandonions.The lime juicenot ingredients suchaschoppedhotandsweet peppers, ceviche-style cooking,limejuiceismixed withother vinaigrettes, fishdishes,cocktails,and ceviche.In South Americalimejuiceisusedinmarinades, salad neys. ThroughouttheCaribbeanand Centraland juice canbefrozeninicecubetraysfor handy use. becomes dryandhard,theinsidewillbejuicy.Lime erated inacool,dryplace.Evenwhenthepeel they willhavenojuice.Limeskeepfairlywellunrefrig- acid. Limesalsohavesomefiberandpotassium. third ofthedailyrequirementVitaminCasascorbic lutely nofat,sugarorcholesterol.Onelimecontainsa derived fromthisfruit. of insects.Citratelimeandcitricacidarealso It canreduceacne,andtakethepainfromstings reduce highbloodpressure,andtofightcoldsflu. it isusedtoincreasebloodcirculation,treatarthritis, with citronella,lavenderorrosemary.Beyondascent, and storytellingunderthelimetree. easy joboflimepicking,whichalwaysincludedresting “limin’”, orhangingout,isderivedfromtherelatively became knownas“limeys”.Theislands’conceptof vented theweakeningdiseaseofscurvy.Britishsailors balls dotoday.Sailorslovedthelime,sinceitpre- keep mothsawayfromhangingclothes,justasmoth- Fragrant limeswereusedduringtheMiddleAgesto production withacombined1.2millionmetrictons. unbeliever. BrazilandMexicoleadtheworld’slime “Kaffir” isastrangenamebecauseinArabicitmeans similar totheWestIndies’rough-skinnedlemon. Southeast AsianvarietycalledtheKaffirlime,whichis other fruitimportedfromTahiti.Thereisalsoa hybrid thatarrivedinCaliforniaaround1850with (or “Persian”)variety.TheTahitianmaybeagenetic many seedsandissmallerthanthebigseedlessTahiti names. TheWestIndian,Key,orMexicanLimehas The Sweet Like mostothercitrusfruits,thejuicylimeorigi- West Indiansuselimeinpeppersauce andchut- Don’t buylimesthathavebeenpickedtooyoung— One averagelimehasonly20calorieswithabso- Cold-pressed limeoilsmellssweetandblendswell Ancients usedthelimeformedicinalpurposes. There arethreebasictypesoflimeswithvarious I and Tart

ing oneofthesmalllocallimesto“wash”my but hereintheCaribbeanI’mcontentsqueez- I gotusedtothebigseedlesslimesinFlorida, and thethirst-quenchingtasteoftartlimeade. love thesmellofafreshlycutsqueezedlime Lime SERVING ATSEABYSHIRLEYHALL turn brownatoneend. sary. Fruitthatripenstoyellowonthe tree willsoon like theleafminer,solittlechemicalspraying isneces- the treestartstoblossom. between ureaand12–1217–2everytwo monthsafter cup ofureasprinkledeverythreemonths. Alternate slip itoverthetrunk. soft-drink bottleandmakingaslitdown onesideto guard bycuttingthetopandbottomoutofaplastic mower, wrapthetrunkinaluminumfoilormakea for water.Donotuseherbicide. water ringsotheyoungtreedoesn’thavetocompete or gentlyhoeallweedsandlawngrassfrominsidethe ly forthenextfourmonthsifitisdryseason.Pull season. will holdwaterforthefineouterrootsduringdry trunk, createathree-inchhighdamorwaterring.This rot. Abouttwofeetoutsidethehighsoilattree’s ground leveltopreventpuddlesthatwillcauseroot hole. Pilethesecondhalfofsoilhigherthan When planting,waterafterrefillinghalfthesoilin reach 20feetandtakeatleastsixyearstobear. wild, WestIndianlimetreesgrownfromseedsmay lime treethatbearsinthreetofouryears.Thorny, spoonfuls intoballs.Allowtodryonwaxedpaper. minutes, stirringconstantly. papaya, limejuiceandgratedpeel.Boilfortwo and bringtoaboil.Stiruntilitthickens.Addgrated and strain.Presspapayatoremoveallexcessliquid. (350°F) for12to15minutes,untilgoldenbrown. balls andplaceoncookiesheets.Bakeat180°C ing intoasoftdough.Formthedoughhalf-inch well. egg andyolk,limejuicegratedpeel.Mix and salt. with themarinade. coals for15minutesoruntildone,bastingfrequently the fridgeforfourhours.Grillchickenoverhot en. Addthechicken,turningtocoat.Letmarinatein hours. Servewithbiscuitsorwarmbakedgarlicbread. to theshrimp.Coverandrefrigerateforatleastfour lime juiceandorangejuice,seasoningsslices place inaglassbowl. minutes thenremoveshrimpfromwater,drainand heat andaddshrimp.Letrestforonlyoneahalf Limes aresturdytreesthathavefewnatural enemies After threemonths,therecommendedfertilizer isa To preventdamagebya“bushwhacker”orstring Water everyfewdaysforthefirstmonth,thenweek- Lime treesneedgood,well-drainedsoilandfullsun. A perfectadditiontoanyyardisagraftedorbudded For theFarmer Remove fromheatandcoolslightlybeforerolling Place sugarandthehalf-cupofwaterinasaucepan Boil gratedpapayainsufficientwatertocover;cool Grated peelofonelime Juice ofthreelimes 1/2 Cupwater 1 Cupbrownsugar 2 Cupsgratedgreenpapaya Lime Balls Sprinkle withextrasugarifasweetertasteisdesired. Add flourmixturewiththebuttermixture,combin- In anotherbowl,creambutterwithsugar.Addthe In asuitablebowlcombineflour,bakingpowder 2 Tablespoonsgratedlimepeel 3 Tablespoonslimejuice 1 eggplusoneyolk 1/4 Cupbrownsugar 4 ouncesbutter 1/2 Tablespoonsalt 1 Tablespoonbakingpowder 1/2 pound(2Cups)baker’sflour Lime Biscuits In abowl,mixtogetherallingredientsexceptchick- 4 largechickenbreasts Salt andspicestotaste 1 leafchadonbene,choppedfine 1/2 hotpepper,minced(optional) 6 garliccloves,minced 1 mediumonion,minced Juice ofthreelimes 3 Tablespoonscanolaoil Grilled LimeChicken Add allchoppedvegetables,themincedhotpepper, Bring atwo-quartpotofwatertoboil.Removefrom 2 limes,thinlysliced Salt andspicetotaste 1/2 Cupfreshorangejuice Juice offourlimes 1 hotpepper,minced 1 bunchchadonbene,choppedfine 1 mediumsweetonion,chopped 1 largeripetomato,chopped 1 poundlargeshrimp Ceviche Shrimp

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Box 526 Port of Spain Trinidad West Indies E-mail: [email protected] Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables Fruits, Vegetables Cheeses, Fresh Fine Wine, Corea production activities, including, scheduling, allocation of labor, production activities, including, scheduling, THE FOOD STORE STORE THE FOOD PROJECT MANAGER EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITY Your #1 Choice for Provisioning Provisioning Choice for #1 Your Established shipyard in Trinidad requires experienced individual Established shipyard in Trinidad requires experienced Read in Next Month’s Key Responsibilities: Plan, schedule and coordinate jobs. Allocate labor properly to maximize productivity. ciency to eliminate rework. Ensure effi and requirements. Meet with customers to address their needs cient Quality control. Graduate Qualifi profi • University • • Computer Minimum of ten (10) years shipyard experience Curricula vitaé from suitable qualifi more! and … or 2 pancakes per person Elegant Yet Yet Easy Easy Place a spoonful onto the prepared Place a spoonful onto the prepared Vegetable Cocktail A tin of tomato or vegetable cocktail Rim glasses by rubbing the lips with This truly is putting on the dog with- Scramble Serves four. sliced 2 muffins or bread rounds, 1 Tablespoon butter 1 Tablespoon cooking oil 4 eggs 4 Tablespoons milk crab 1/2 Cup cooked lobster or salt and pepper to taste feta) 1/4 Cup cheese (Cheddar or minced chives or green onions Carefully toast the buttered muffin by Ross Mavis the center of the pan. Salt and pepper can be added at this time. Just before the eggs are fully cooked, add the cooked broken lobster meat, crab or fish. Stir lightly to incorporate. Coarsely grate cheddar cheese or crumble feta cheese into the egg/seafood mixture. Just as the mixture is almost com- pletely set, but still moist, add dried chives or chopped fresh spring onions as a garnish. muffins, bread or pancakes on serving plates and garnish with fresh fruit or a small side salad of mixed greens. Pour vegetable cocktails and get ready to receive rave reviews. How easy is this anyway? juice makes a super accompaniment to a scramble. Like so many things in life, presentation is very important. a cut lime and inverting them gently into a mixture of coarsely ground pep- per, garlic powder, salt and a sprinkle of your favorite herbs. To each glass, add a couple of ice cubes if you have them, fill with veggie juice, add a splash of HP sauce and a dash of hot pepper sauce. Stir and garnish glasses with a slice of cucumber, lemon or lime. out any hassle. halves, bread rounds or warm pan- cakes in a fry pan on the stove top. Meanwhile, lightly beat eggs and milk in a bowl. Leave a separation of white and yolk as this provides a nice color break. Over medium-high heat, in non- stick fry pan, add a drizzle of oil and a tablespoon of butter before adding the eggs. If you are expecting more than four people, you’ll want to make this scramble in batches. Stir the eggs gen- tly and scrape them as they cook into Scramble: Scramble: , you have a per- voila This will make 8 to 10 pancakes. To make scramble bases: Pancake Mix 2 eggs 1/4 Cup oil or melted butter 1 Cup soured milk 1 1/4 Cups flour 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt Beat eggs, oil and milk well. Stir in Make your own rounds by simply Once, when I discovered my sole loaf Decide on the number you plan to Any morning is an ideal time to time to Any morning is an ideal The word “scramble” may conjure up The word “scramble” may conjure Keep warm while scramble is readied. dry ingredients just until nicely mixed but don’t over beat. Drop spoonfuls of batter on a hot oiled griddle and turn when bubbles appear on the surface of the pancakes. cooking pancakes from an unsweet- ened batter. These can be made in advance if you wish and wrapped in plastic to retain moistness. The batter I prefer for these is a simple one that can also be doubled if you want to serve them in the traditional way with butter and syrup. of bread had gone moldy and English muffins weren’t available, I threw cau- tion to the wind and used pancakes. bowl or dish slightly smaller than the width of the bread, press it down onto a bread slice and fectly circular bread round. (I keep the crusts or extra bread pieces, dry them and crush into crumbs to use for fish or chicken coating at a later date.) feed and lightly butter two English muffin halves or bread slices for each person. When you are really trying to make an impression, carefully cut the crust off the bread slices. If you have a large diameter cookie cutter, or a small impress friends and family with this with this impress friends and family meal. If delightfully easy stove-top you have fresh lobster, crab or white fish in the cooler, you’re halfway to heaven. Some folks will substitute tinned salmon or tuna but it really isn’t an acceptable stand-in for freshly cooked seafood. thoughts of a struggle or clambering on thoughts of a struggle or clambering dicey but it deck when weather gets meaning in takes on a whole different union of the galley. The wonderful cheese lightly cooked eggs, seafood, toasted and herbs stacked on lightly even pan- bread, English muffins or cakes is sheer elegance.

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tel: 440-2310 Dear Monthly yachting tourists(i.e.allthosewhoreadthe Chateaubelair, andthosewillnowsufferalossoftheir been tarred,undeservedly,withthesamebrushas anchorages inSt.VincentandtheGrenadineshas Compass the WindwardsandLeewards.Asoneletterto mix, regardinganumberofotheranchoragesinboth his accusations,headdedmorevaguechargestothe only wouldhenotnamehissourcesnorbackoffon author oftheMarch e-mails forsometwoweekswithDickDurham,the Yachting Monthly Compass While theinputfromthesetwowritersisvaluableto problem: rumorsrunningrampant. made friends.That’stheoppositesideofabove water taxioperatorinBequiawithwhomhehasnow found, instead,noproblemsexceptforafierce-looking had heardterriblethingsabout“theseislands”,he on theSecurityNetApril5thtosaythat,whilehe again asafeanchorage. comments likethistoimplythatChateaubelairis tant tokeepthedetailsstraight,andnotallowvague recent spateofattacksinChateaubelair.Itisimpor- on...” ThatisNOTthelotresponsibleformost lot thatgotcaughtarenowenjoying20yearsinpris- someone wholivesinSt.Vincentassaying,“Thelast December 2007. in Chateaubelair,St.Vincent,Novemberand Monthly letters commentingontheMarch2008 country inquestion.Letterstothe Tourism and/orthemarinetradesassociationof appropriate targetforourcommentsistheMinistryof observe orareinvolvedinanegativeincident,the proper channels. some yachtsmendon’treportthem through the said thereweremoreattacksthanthose logged,as just Chateaubelair)fromneighbouring islands”.He told us“piratessneakintosomeofour bays(not local journaliston to tryandentraprobbers. patrols andsaidtheywereplanninguse a decoyyacht other incidents.Theypromisedtostepuppolice Vincent. Bothapologisedfortheattackandconfirmed Deputy PrimeMinister,andthepolicechiefofSt. checked thefactsbycontacting,respectively, three robbersarmedwithagunandmachetes,we suffered inChateaubelair,StVincent,atthehandsof his storyabouttheattackheandwife,Katherine, Dear CC response toMelodye’sletter,whichfollows. www.safetyandsecuritynet.com SSB 8104.0at1215UTC for theCaribbeanSafetyandSecurityNet S/Y SecondMillennium Melodye Pompa ous reporting. changes ortheaudiencewhopromulgatederrone- the audiencewhocanbringaboutnecessary the trueaudienceinadditiontoalertingeachother, change thecircumstancesofproblem.Let’starget dangers butdonotnotifythosewhohavethepowerto alert ourfellowyachtsmenaboutpotentialproblemsor My secondcommentismoregeneralinnature. A visitingyachtsmananchoredinBequiacameup I havetwocommentstoadd.Thefirstletterquotes Thanks forpublishinginyourAprilissuethetwo When weasyachtingtouristsintheislandchain We contactedtheUKForeignOffice,who toldusof Our reporterDickDurhamthenspoke witha We asked After Thanks forgivingustheoptiontoreply. Compass Compass Yachting Monthly articleandtakeitforthetruth). magazinearticleonthecrimesagainstyachts indicated,thereputationofanumber readers,themoreimportantaudienceis

Yachting Monthly Readers’ Forum , , itselfanditsreaders.Iexchanged The Vincentian Yachting Monthly readerStevenJonessentin editorPaulGelderforhis Compass newspaper who article and,not serveto Yachting Yachting Seven SeasCruisingAssociation along thecoast(seeourarticleinJanuary2008 encountered noproblemsalongtheway. From CumanátoPuertoLaCruzwetraveledalone.We Testigos toCumanáwetraveledwithoneotherboat. Segunda, andfinallyBahiaRedondaMarina.From Cumaná, LagunaGrande,Mochima,Chimana Margarita (Porlamar),Coche,Navimcaboatyardin our waytoPuertoLaCruz.WestoppedatLosTestigos, first andonlywenttorecommendedanchorageson Venezuela fromTrinidad.Wewerealittleanxiousat the seasandatanchoragesbeforewesailedto until May2008.Ofcoursewehadheardofpiracyon Venezuela, BonaireandCuraçaofromMarch2007 Dear London, UK Yachting Monthly Paul Gelder,Editor readers’ lettersexpressingcontraryviews. balanced, aswellinformed.Wehavealsopublished ests oftourismandcommerce.Ourreportinghasbeen have toputthesafetyofourreadersbeforeinter- publish them. incidents andpossiblefurtherarticles,butdidnot up todate.Wefiledhisstatements,pendingfurther were overaperiodofseveralyears,othersmore in variousCaribbeanlocations.Someofhisstatistics Don Street.toldusofotherrobberiesandthefts by pilotbookwriterandCaribbeancruisingauthority, Following publicationofourarticle,wewerecontacted was reportedintheMarchissueof other pirateattacksinthelowerCaribbean.Allofthis —Continuedonnextpage was ascaryexperience. the banditoswereononeofthem.Needless tosay,it sage wesawseveralpiroguesandwould wonderif we weremoreopentobeingboarded.During thepas- moment thatthebanditoswouldattack againasnow anxious whenwelefttheanchorage,expecting atany did anchorwatchuntil0500,May1st.We werequite our own.Weswitchedontheforedeck light andJoe provide a“presenceinthearea.” water andtheywereontheland,buthesaiditwould We askedwhatgoodthatwoulddoifwewereonthe National Guardandtheywouldpatrolthebeacharea. hurt orrobbed,theonlythinghecoulddowascall he calledbackandsaidthatsincewehadnotbeen have aposadafullofguests.Afterabout30minutes, told ushewouldcometoouraidhimselfifdidn’t calling theportcaptainthere,withnoluckeither.He stationed there(unbeknownsttous).Healsotried our boattoCarúpanobecausetheVenezuelanNavyis was some15to20milesaway.Hesuggestedmoving We wereinformedthattheVenezuelanCoastGuard Francisco understoodthatbanditoshadattackedus. and theGuardiaNacional.Finallysomeonenamed We triedtheCarúpanoportcaptain,GuardaCosta called “Mayday,mayday,mayday”onVHFchannel16. to leavetheanchorageandtheycouldattackagain? break in?Weretheywatchingustoseeifwewouldtry going togetcrowbarsorgunsandreturnagaintry were gonebutnowtheterrorofactsetin.Werethey of ourportlightsbutsawnothingfromeitherside.They excited voicesandthentheyweregone!Welookedout another one.Themenjabberedbackandforthin would bebeaten(orworse)androbbed. panionway withtheirmachetesand/orgunsandwe would breakthroughtheacrylichatchesorcom- gain entrance.Weexpectedthatatanyminutethey We picturedthemdestroyingtheboatastheytriedto minutes. Wehadpeppersprayandflaregunsinhand. then onthecompanionwaydoor.Itwentforseveral pounding onthehatchesofV-berthandaftcabin, our boatandthebangingbegan.Menwereyelling few hours,thenhaddinnerandreturnedtobed. After lockingourselvesinforthenight,weslepta cussed stayingtwonightsbecauseitwassolovely. there. “Whatalovelybay,”wewroteinourlog.Wedis- four mileseastofCarúpano,sowedecidedtostop the cruisingguideaboutPuertoSantosjustanother it wouldbeagoodplacetostoprest.Butwereadin port forenteringandleavingthecountrysowethought Grenada atthistime.WeknewthatCarúpanowasa Paria. WedecidedtoheadforTrinidadinsteadof keeping fivemilesoffthecoastofPeninsulade Cuba! Wemotor-sailedthroughthenightof29th south. Wechosesouthaswedidnotwanttoendupin the strongcurrent,wecouldonlygoduenorthor able forheadingtoGrenada,wefoundthat,becauseof and evenwithlightwindswhichwebelievedwerefavor- another 18months. 45 daystoallowourboatremaininVenezuelafor Coche, andMargarita. 30th, cruisingtheGolfodeCariaco,Cubagua, We also traveled alone from Curaçao to Puerto La Cruz We alsotraveledalonefromCuraçaotoPuertoLaCruz We justcompletedawonderful14-monthcruiseof I amsorryifanyoneisupsetbyourreport,butwe So, aswesubconsciouslyalreadyknew, wewereon During thetimeofbangingandpounding,we Then Joefiredaflareoutofsalonhatchandthen At 2145weheardtheloudnoiseofapiroguehitting We leftPorlamaratabout1800hoursonApril29th Then wedecidedtoheadeastsocouldreturnin Next timealonewasfromMarch16thtoApril Compass , Commodore’s Bulletin Yachting Monthly ). . JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 Parts - Repairs - Service FAX: (473) 444 2899 Duty-Free Engines for Yachts Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 email: [email protected] We are on-line: TOURS & CRUISES - CAR & JEEP RENTAL www.caribbeancompass.com McIntyre Bros. Ltd. TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGE’S, GRENADA W.I. YAMAHA , is , at was in steering Evelyn ( Chipi-chipi bodegas Evelyn Evelyn Evelyn and fortunate to have survived a , Circe with the Yamaha throttle wide open and a light Compass Evelyn is a ten-foot rollup floored Avon powered by I was sitting on the starboard side of My mind flashed back to my youth when a friend I immediately put my sporadically used safety lan- Finished is the operative word here. If I had fallen Since then, we always use the safety lanyard even on I am also surprised at the number of cruisers who The main beach (which I walk along to town) is about (which I walk along to town) The main beach Like many fellow part-time cruisers, we have returned Lay-up also gives one a chance to reflect on the Now that my haul-out has been completed I am Now that my haul-out has All the crowds in Puerto La Cruz oughta loosen up a The main town of Higuerote is a 20-cent, ten-minute of Higuerote is a 20-cent, The main town with my left arm just like I have done hundreds of times. In the blink of an eye, or maybe a nanosecond, the tiller was no longer in my hand and named for our friend Roy’s grandmother, but that’s named for our friend Roy’s grandmother, but that’s another story). an eight-horsepower Yamaha that has been our tender without incident for 17 years. This changed this sea- son on a March afternoon at the head of Falmouth Harbor, Antigua. I was zipping across the anchorage in Evelyn touch on the tiller. The water was very smooth, there were no nearby yachts and it was nice to be going somewhere this windy season in the dinghy without getting a lot of salt spray. a full-speed spinning contest. Inexplicably, the tiller had slipped away from my grip. Somehow, and for some reason, I was not thrown overboard. Something told me to hit the floor quickly and crawl back to retrieve the tiller. When it had slipped from my hand, the torque of the propeller had turned the motor hard over and the tiller was now over the port side transom. The fast- spinning dinghy made it very hard to do, but after three or four full circles, I regained control of the tiller, throt- tled back and breathed a huge sigh of relief. was thrown overboard, run down and killed by his own boat. His football jersey was tightly wound around the propeller when his boat was finally stopped. He had not used a safety lanyard. yard, attached to the front of the outboard kill-switch, around my wrist and finished my dinghy journey. overboard, there is no doubt in my mind that I would have been hit by my own outboard’s spinning prop and I might have been thoroughly finished. short, slow trips. This incident has given me a new perspective on dinghy safety. Now I look to see if peo- ple are using their safety lanyards. Many, just like me in the past, do not. make dinghy trips while standing up, alone or with a partner, using long tiller extensions in their hard-bot- tom inflatables with big engines. Maybe they are using lanyards clipped to their ankles, maybe not. —Continued on next page which a cold bottle of beer costs about 20 cents! bottle of beer costs about 20 which a cold a rich sup- and never have I seen such two miles long daily basis. I being harvested on a ply of shellfish up to my knees and with walked into the gentle surf over three dozen small bare hands was able to collect one minute! edible surf clams in less than to Trinidad to put our boat on the hard and fly home until November. Preparing the boat for lay-up in the Caribbean for hurricane season is a chore but it is one we gladly accept as this means we will be back in the islands again next fall. cruising season. I for one am very glad that I will be back aboard as they are known locally, are like very small New as they are known locally, a very similar tasting England quahogs and make however, to leave the chowder. One must remember, with some cornmeal for clams in a bucket of seawater process of the clam will a while. The normal siphoning it has carried from the sea exchange the sand which been added to the water, with the cornmeal that has broth. making a much more savory on the opposite side of the anchored 200 yards away to an extensive mangrove channel at the entrance must be five times the lagoon area, Carenero, which here in the late afternoons size of Carriacou’s. Sitting parrots and pink fla- I watch flocks of red ibis, green day’s fishing, and on mingos returning from their come out in family groups weekends the Venezuelans the head of the mangroves and camp on the beach at where there are benches and barbecue facilities. Unlike in my New England hometown, the tenting is not only allowed but is encouraged! And yes, there is ball playing, loud music, and open fires for cooking. In Connecticut about the only thing you can do on the beach is leave footprints and take pictures. (I certainly would not eat the shellfish from there any longer.) I little and check it out for themselves, but sometimes think that the yachtsmen of today are a lot like the folks who have to put bars on all their windows for the “luxury” of living in a city. John Smith Mermaid of Carriacou Dear near mishap in our trusty dinghy, bus ride away and the town boasts six good hardware and the town boasts six good bus ride away as well as bakery/coffee shops stores and countless selling a vast of street vendors the normal plethora On every CDs and prepared food. array of clothing, markets, fish stalls and/or corner are fruit or port square miles

capitaneria , which can be extended to 18 months before the Compass Continued from previous page Continued from Similarly, Venezuela covers some 352,144 Let’s look at the geographical perspective. The Wider Yes, crimes against yachts do occur, but where, Diane's letter, and Melodye’s above, underline the We each do what we are comfortable doing. Be pre- Would we recommend others to cruise there? That’s So, to answer the cruisers’ two main questions: So, to answer the cruisers’ Our plan now includes: locking the companionway Our plan now includes: locking The rule of thumb in Venezuela is “lift it, lock it or in Venezuela is “lift The rule of thumb When we arrived in Grenada on May 2nd, cruisers in Grenada on May 2nd, When we arrived The yard is large and has five travel lifts with the Astillero de Higuerote on the mainland of Venezuela Cruisers can research the safety of prospective Cruisers can research the safety of prospective Caribbean Region contains 28 countries and the Caribbean Region contains 28 countries and the Caribbean Sea is some 2,000 miles wide. Saying that this area is unsafe because there are incidents here and there is like saying the European Union (with 27 countries, and about 1,700 miles from Norway to Italy) is unsafe because a number of assaults on tourists have occurred in, say, Budapest and Rome. exactly? All too often we hear or read that “St. Vincent exactly? All too often we hear or read that “St. Vincent is unsafe”, “Venezuela is unsafe” or “the Caribbean is unsafe”. These sweeping statements are the cousins of geography-challenged headlines in North American newspapers that announce “Caribbean Devastated by Hurricane” when only parts of one or perhaps two islands have been affected. importance of “location, location, location.” As Diane importance of “location, location, location.” As Diane says, she cruised extensively in Venezuela for 14 months without incident before anchoring in Puerto Santos (where assaults on yachts were reported in April and June, 2003, although between then and her incident, it’s been quiet). pared for the unexpected. Diane Dinan Moon Goddess Dear Readers, up to them. This type of activity happens everywhere in up to them. This type of activity happens everywhere in the world. Cruising on the open water makes one per- haps more vulnerable to attack since there is no “911” to call. Being with other boats may deter some bandits, but not all. Boardings and robberies at Porlamar, for instance, have occurred even when the target boat was surrounded by numerous other boats in the anchor- age. Sometimes they only want money. We know of another boat that was completely stripped, from elec- tronics to clothes to food to the shower-curtain rings! Would we return to Venezuela? Maybe. In time we Would we return to Venezuela? might say yes. Others have, who had been attacked. when inside, turning on the foredeck light immediately when inside, turning on the a loud horn, firing warning upon a boarding, blowing lethal measures would flares from the hatch. More gained entrance to our have to be used if boarders the meaning of survival. boat. Now we understand now in Grenada safe and Anger still remains. We are are nervous stomachs, sound, but the after-effects not beaten or killed, relief tears, relief that we were now we are advocates of that the boat is okay too. But idea of lethal force would owning a gun. Previously the are fortunate that we are have been unthinkable. We damaged. But, sadly, we not hurt and our home is not Caribbean. now believe in Pirates of the lose it” when referring to your dinghy. The rule of referring to your dinghy. lose it” when up, and might be “lock up, board thumb for yourself We knew we ready in case of attack.” have a plan on the Peninsula de Paria, shouldn’t anchor anywhere in a land that we had but heck, it was our last night pushed our luck by one enjoyed for over a year. We night (and we were exhausted). kept asking “But would you return to Venezuela?” The would you return to Venezuela?” kept asking “But it. We said and we are still not over attack is too recent recommend We were asked if we would we didn’t know. to them. there. We said that’s up others to cruise — largest rated for 100 tons. It is airy and well main- tained with plenty of free, clean water, free electricity and very clean restroom facilities. While showering in the outdoor facilities I watched a pair of osprey in a nearby tree and watched as three small owls explored the recently plowed and cleared surface of the sur- rounding land. captain’s office, so clearance from foreign is easy. The port captain has authority to issue the ship clearance zarpe, vessel must leave the country for 45 days. is one of the best boatyards I have been in, especially in regard to security here in Venezuela. The yard is on a peninsula just adjacent to the Caribbean destinations by visiting www.safetyandse- curitynet.com and by talking to other cruisers, charter base managers and locals, and then choose where not to go. Of course, it’s impossible to predict when a crime will occur in a previously “safe” spot, but that’s true anywhere in the world. Informed sailors won’t let crime reports from specific hotspots deter them from enjoying the rest of this vast cruising area. CC Dear — larger than Texas and Oklahoma combined. Even if you just consider Venezuela’s 2,000 miles of coastline, compare that to California’s 840-mile coast. If San Diego had a crime wave, that would be no reason to strike San Francisco Bay off a planned cruising itinerary. JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48 to findquietanchoragesfarfrom“TheMaddingCrowd”. are notdescribedintheotherguides.Thisenablesthem ages thatarepopularwithbareboaters. pictures anddescribehotels,bars,restaurantsanchor- describe ALLtheanchoragesinEasternCaribbean. places andhistory.Street’sGuidesaretheonlyonesthat piloting directions,plusinterestinganecdotesofpeople, ARE MOREECONOMICAL! Real sailorscircleinStreet’sGuidetheanchoragesthat Real sailorsalsobuytheotherguides,thathavepretty Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuidesforinter-islandandharbor experience intheCaribbean,series’fourvolumes at bookshopsandchandleries,orfromwww. BUY STREET’SGUIDES iUniverse.com andwww.seabooks.com cover theEasternCaribbeanfromPuertoRico Written byanauthorwith50yearsofsailing WITHOUT IT LEAVE PORT STREET’S GUIDES the coastofVenezuelatoABCs. Street’s Guidesareavailable REAL SAILORS down throughtheislandsand DON’T know exactlywhattypeofvisatoaskfor, andtoclear- — (And Roy,we’lltreat wear thatsafetylanyard!Pleaseconsidersittingdown! long time. friends andwewanttokeepthemaroundforlong, steeply bankedturn.Lotsofthesecruisersareour ond, especiallyinaV-hulledRIBthatcanmake Dear S/V Circe Harrison Evatt Dear Glandore, Ireland Don Street securing forhurricanes,dodgingetcetera. tion onhurricanes,boatpreparation,hurricaneholes, visit mywebsite,www.street-iolaire.com,forinforma- unnavigable fordeep-draftboats. Thus, someshallowchannelsmaybetemporarily lower thanduringhighwaterspringsinthewinter. and July,thesealevelcanbeasmuchthreefeet North AmericaandtheCaribbean. the l867Norie&Wilsonguidetoeastcoastof Croix backinthemid-19thcentury.Itwasreported first reportedbyMr.Lange,anaturalistlivinginSt. does mentionit)butitisawell-knownfactthatwas is usually12to18incheslowerthanitinthewinter. Dear Eddy, Belgium S/V Helena Eddy laws oftheUS? trip harder.Istherenotalittlebitofhumanity inthe miles offshore,soIhadtochangecourse,makingmy my girlfriendhasnovisa,Ihavetostayatleast12 checked meontheradio.Theytoldthatbecause four orfivemilesfromthecoastwhencoastguard lee ofPuertoRico.Lastnight,Iwasmotorsailingabout the windandcurrentforthreedaysuntilwegotin tourist needareasontovisitcountry? Why doesyachtcrewneedaspecialreason; visa sotheboatcanmakeastoponhardsaileast? can’t theUSgovernmentgiveayacht’screwmember again. US$16 PIN,payUS$131foranotherinterview,andtry recourse wastomakeanotherappointment,buythe the consulatebutthatwasimpossible.Theonly face, Iknewenough.triedtotalkwithsomebodyfrom reason (suchasvisitingfamily)tovisitPuertoRico. could notgiveheravisa,becauseshehadnospecial Puerto Rico,shesaid,“Tovisit.”Theofficialtoldherhe see thepapers.Whenaskedwhyshewantedtogo status, andacrewlist,butthemandidnotwantto had mypassport,documentsshowingfinancial that Iwascaptainandowneroftheboat,shealso financial status.Sheshowedthepapersindicating address, andthatshewasdependingonmeforher explained thatshewasonaboat,sohadno think. Whenshewasalonefortheinterview, go withher,andhereiswherethingswentwrong,I consulate helpedherinside,butIwasnotallowedto had toliedownontheground.Somepeoplefrom it asbestwecould. we werenowattheendoflongprocess,sotook the interview,andwaitingforphotos,butwefelt hours inthebanktobuyPINnumbersandpayfor on thehot,noisystreet.Wehadalreadyinvestedmany early, buthundredsofotherpeoplewerealsowaiting (April 15th),wewenttotheconsulate.Wearrived us tocollectinPuertoRico. long-sought outboardpartstobesentfromtheUSfor interview wevisitedtheislandandIarrangedforsome about 18dayslater.Whilewewerewaitingforthe bers atUS$16each)wearrangedtohavetheinterview but afterlongdiscussion(whichcostmetwoPINnum- told wehadtowaitaboutsixweeksforaninterview, the necessarypaperworkforvisa.Atfirstwewere 45-minute busridetoSantoDomingo,whereIdidall as crewforsevenmonths. Venezuelan girlfriend,Glenda,whoissailingwithme Domingo, DR,IwouldapplyforaUSvisamy Virgin IslandsbacksouthtoMargarita.InSanto When thehurricaneseasonstarted,I’dsailfrom Dominican Republicandfromthere,headeastagain. Margarita toCuraçao,fromCuraçaoupthe I wantedtomakeatour.plannedgowestfrom sailed manytimesupanddowntheislands,thisyear Yacht crewscangetavisitorvisa,but ithelpsto US Immigrationlawmaynotbeinhumane,but itisstrict. If itcanhappentome,you.Please Either way,someonecanfalloutinthatnanosec- On another subject, as hurricane season approaches, On anothersubject,ashurricaneseasonapproaches, This meansthat,comelowwaterspringsinJune This isnotreportedinmodernpilotbooks(myguide Warning: thesealevelinCaribbeanJuneandJuly I writethisletterwhileweareatsea.Webeatagainst After thedisappointmentcomesquestion:why When shecameoutofthebuildingandIsawher While wewerewaitingmygirlfriendfeltunwelland When thedayappointedforinterviewarrived When wearrivedinBocaChica,DR,tooka Being intheCaribbeanforsixyearsnowandhaving Continued frompreviouspage Compass Compass Readers, , Evelyn kindlyagainnextseason!)

in oursailboat, Protection AgentJackGarofanotold visa foravisitorbusiness.USCustomsandBorder com), yachtcrewshouldrequestaB-1visa,whichis March 29,2007,issueof purposes (B-1/B-2). sure ormedicaltreatment(B-2),acombinationofboth United Statestemporarilyforbusiness(B-1),plea- means “non-immigrant”. ently isn’talwaysenough—a“visitor”visasimply join it)USwaters.Merelysaying“Iwanttovisit”appar- work onisgoingto(oralreadyin,ifyou’re ly statethatyouwantavisabecausetheyacht March. Somecruisershadworseheadaches thanours. from cruiserswhousedtheEnglishHarbour ATMin untouched andcouldstillbeusedtoget cash. my carddidnotwork.Asaresult, accountwas eral timestogetawithdrawalinEnglish Harbour,but per transaction,whicheverwashigher.I had triedsev- penalty, butwaschargedeitherUS$5or threepercent the hopesthathecouldmakecashwithdrawals without money thathadbeenstolen. by e-mail.Withinthreedays,thebankreplacedall have themfileareport.Theyagreed.Thiswasalldone urb, andaskedifhecoulde-mailthemthefacts authorities, Timphonedthepoliceinourhomesub- police report,andratherthandealwiththelocal had beentakenfromTim’saccount.Georgeneededa most ofwhichhadcomefromRussia.AboutUS$1500 already rejectedseveraloftheattemptedwithdrawals, ones werefraudulent.Asitturnedout,thebankhad through eachwithdrawalwithTimtoidentifywhich er,” aservicenotallbanksprovide.Georgeworked went totheATM. sistently withdrawnthesameamounteachtimehe not hisbecauseofthedivergentamounts;hehadcon- account ontheinternet.However,heknewsomewere on hisaccountwasnotlistedwhenhepulledup drawals, andthelocationofvariouswithdrawals the issues.Timhadnotkeptreceiptsfromallhiswith- bank wasclosed,soittooktwodaystoworkthrough talking tothem.Bythetimeitwasrecharged, er, thecomputerbatterywentdeadbeforehefinished were inMartiniqueanddidnothavea220-voltadapt- then besoldaroundtheworld.) transaction, includingyourPIN.Theinformationcan strip andfromtheATMmachineasyouconductyour which downloadspertinentinformationfromyourcard’s is accomplishedwithachipinstalledintotheATM, and theillicitwithdrawals.(Wearetoldthistypeoffraud there wasaboutasix-weekinterimbetweencarduse both ofTim’scardshadbeencompromised.Apparently, dinghy andwenttothelocalinternetcafé.Sureenough, heard this,wepackedupourlaptop,loadedintothe als fromtheiraccounts.Liketheothercruiserswho during Januarywereexperiencingfraudulentwithdraw- who hadusedtheATMinEnglishHarbour,Antigua, it wasannouncedthatasignificantnumberofcruisers check inandcontacteachother.OnemorningMarch, a morningradionetwherecruisersintheCaribbean first heardabouttheproblem.TheCoconutTelegraphis Dear CC aboard. Hopethisinformationhelpsnexttime. able tocruisePuertoRicoandtheUSVirginswithher B-1 visabeforeleavingVenezuela,youmighthavebeen outside thecountryofpermanentresidence.” abroad, itmaybemoredifficulttoqualifyforthevisa visa applicantsmayapplyatanyUSconsularoffice with familyorvisitstorelatives. States fornon-workrelatedactivitiessuchasvacations designation allowsacrewmembertoentertheUnited private pleasureyacht.” bers enteringtheUnitedStatesascrewmembersofa stand theB-1visaismostappropriateforcrewmem- foreign-flag yachtcruisinginUSwaters:“Weunder- citizens wishingtobeacrewmemberonprivate as towhichtypeofvisa(s)areappropriatefornon-US maritime industryandtheprocessingofcrewmembers different USgovernmentagenciesfamiliarwiththe Safety andSecurityCommitteealsosoughtadvicefrom yacht crew.” get aC1/D.TheB-1isthemoreappropriatevisafor the job.Insomeinstancespeoplearetoldtheyshould law thatsaysit,justthecategorybestdescribes appropriate,” Garofanoadded.“There’snothinginthe appropriate foryachts…. commercial vesselscouldbeC1/DbuttheB-1ismore the C1/D,whichlimitsyouto29daysorless.Non- visa foravisitorpleasure.Commercialvesselsare B-2 isnotappropriateforyachtcrewbecausethat’sa My husband Tim and I had been cruising the Caribbean My husbandTimandIhadbeencruisingtheCaribbean According toanarticlebyLucyChabotReedinthe A visitorvisaisforpersonsdesiringtoenterthe There was a second wave of fraudulent withdrawals There wasasecondwaveoffraudulent withdrawals Tim transferredmoneyintohiscreditcardaccountin Tim paysUS$15amonthtohave“personalbank- Tim contactedhisbankonSkype,butbecausewe It’s thereforepossiblethatifGlendahadappliedfora The USStateDepartment’swebsitenotes, The MIASFnotesthattheB-2“visitorforpleasure” The MarineIndustriesAssociationofSouthFlorida’s “You havetomakethecaseaswhyB-1ismore Compass Readers, Tevai, for about five months when we foraboutfivemonthswhenwe The Triton —Continued onnextpage (www.the-triton. The Triton “ Although , “The

JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49 LTD INE DISTRIBUTOR R P.O. Box 17, Kingstown opposite Howard’s Marine PAIE E-mail: [email protected] Located CALLIAQUA, St. Vincent AMAHA MA Y TEL: (784) 457 1806 FAX: (784) 456 1364 KMRN ENGINES (DUTY FREE PRICES) SPARES SERVICE MARINE EQUIPMENT

S/V et al in the May and let everyone S/Y Free AM and went outside with the AM , . AM . I would love to hear from you all at gypsypal- . I would love to hear from Compass Since being back in the UK, I now have a 19-month- in the UK, I now have a Since being back now in England and I often sit at work at my desk with any of my old I would love to make contact Further to the letter from Teri of Further to the letter from Teri Mzungu Malawi College of Forestry in the local Malawian “Mzungu” means “white man” I went to Paria Bay on Trinidad’s north coast for a We arrived at Paria on a Wednesday and spent the On the Thursday I installed the radio, tuner and a Darkness was again descending, so I put the 4:1 A Leatherback Turtle had come up to lay her eggs in Anyway, while there is no visible damage to the Anyway, while there is no visible damage to the This is a good example that anything that can go I woke at about 6:30 to sit and take a beer or rum with. to sit and take girl on Earth who is the most beautiful old daughter virtuoso! she will also be a violin and I am hoping afternoon me and spent a musical (Anyone who knows that one will know what I mean.) I think on the beach to that not too far away, I will return day, hopefully the and let my daughter experience beautiful place people expe- life that some of the local brilliant way of rience every day. I only wish I had appreci- dream of what I left behind. ated it more when I had it! to gather contact details friends whom I didn’t manage partner Keith from from, especially my old music [email protected]. Love, Susannah “Suzie” Schofield Gosport, UK Dear Nomad some years ago I lived and edition regarding snail mail, Africa. A friend sent me a worked in Malawi, Central simply to: letter from London addressed (Chichewa) language. The letter arrived in the usual time, much to the amusement of the postman. Neil Batcheler S/Y Adonde Hi All, five-day holiday, which I intended to use as an oppor- tunity to play radio, practicing my EMCOMMS skills. In particular, I wanted to fine-tune the Winlink system that I have been using at home on my old laptop. day getting the camp set up. Once all was under control, I was able to concentrate on getting my radio up and running. It was so late in the day however, that I was only able to set up the antenna before darkness descended, so I had to leave the rest for the following day. power/swr meter and ran the co-ax to the antenna. I then spent the better part of the day trying to get the antenna to tune. Something was obviously wrong with the antenna but I could not put my fin- ger on the source of the problem. I was able to check in on the CEWN, but the SWR was in excess of 2:1 so I kept it short. balun for the co-ax/ladder-line connection about two feet high on the stump of a tree where it would be out of the way of anyone or anything passing by in the darkness. What I did not pay attention to was the end of the line that was supporting the antenna in the tree overhead. It was tied to the same stump, and the end of it (about 20 feet) was on the sand. This was about 40 feet to the right of my tent and I had the radio and related equipment set up on a bamboo table in front the tent, about two feet above ground. Everything was safe and sound when I went to bed at about 12:30 intention of checking in to the CEWN again, but intention of checking in to the CEWN again, but instead I saw my end of my coax cable in the surf minus the balun, the tuner and power meter halfway down the beach and the radio upside down in the sand, about six feet away from the table. front the tent and when she was returning to the sea, apparently snagged the antenna line, which snagged the balun, which pulled the power meter, tuner halfway down the beach. The only thing that saved it all from going in the sea was that when the turtle reached the surf, the co-ax finally separated from the balun. The damage to the cable alone was amazing. radio, it has NO EARS! It is totally silent on all bands. I just put it back in line here at home and it is not transmitting either. Something is seriously wrong. The tuner has relatively minor damage, with both SO239s and the back of the tuner twisted out of shape. The RG58 between the tuner and radio popped, which saved the rig from going far in the sand, the power meter seems to be okay, and my 55-foot length of low-loss coax is not good for any- thing anymore. So, I will be off the air for a while, until I can get a replacement. wrong will, so take note. I would appreciate if someone would come up on 3855 at 6:30 there know that I may be off the air for a while. Regards, Eric Mackey 9Z4CP —Continued on next page . Recently I has sunk at was damaged Gypsy Gypsy S/V Gypsy Readers, Readers, , Compass Compass Compass Continued from previous page Continued from It was heartbreaking when My name is Suzie, formerly of We understand that the police and the relevant bank I have insurance against this risk, but imagine the I immediately called my bank to cancel my credit How surprised I was when I took a look at my bank On April 25th, we left Antigua to go to Martinique Unfortunately, ATM and credit card fraud is an We were with friends at Antigua for the famous • Save your receipts from ATM transactions and/or • Listen to your local cruisers net. • Check your account frequently and have the • Keep two accounts: a primary account from which • For every account you intend to use, including • For every account you • Keep your account at home with a relatively large • Keep your account at home • Use only ATMs from major US, Canadian or • Use only ATMs from • Maintain at least three ATM cards. Never use more • Maintain at least three ATM Based on these experiences, we have some sugges- Based on these experiences, One set of friends had a single debit card between had a single debit card One set of friends received the very sad news that Hog Island, Grenada. I was and still am quite upset by this news, as I believed that she had a future with her new owner whom I believed was going to take her back to former glory. apparently beyond repair in Hurricane Ivan in 2004. I can honestly say “hand on heart” that I will never for- get the spirit, will and brilliance of the Grenadian people and I often think emotionally of the island that captured my heart. In fact I can’t think of better people in Antigua have also been made aware of the problem. CC Hi, jackpot for this guy who operated by internet or other technology during this regatta and all the festivities at Antigua. I have made a report to the French police. Many thanks, Dominique Mikado of Sark Dear card, which was pirated between April 24th and 29th. card, which was pirated between April 24th and 29th. Checking my statement, it seems that a pirate accessed my account via the ATM machine at English Harbour. He was apparently operating from Russia because the debit was in Russian roubles, debited in euros on my account. He entered apparently by first making a credit of 268 euros and immediately making the same amount of debit. Then, several times over a period of four days, he made nine withdrawals of up to 300 euros. balance (Societe Generale in France) on the internet balance (Societe Generale in France) on the internet and saw mystery debits totaling around 2,300 euros! then Bequia, where we have our home base. unavoidable reality for those who travel abroad. If you anticipate it, you can go far in dealing with it efficiently. Pattie Bittel S/Y Tevai Hi Classic Yacht Regatta in April on my boat, a Mikado ketch. We had, like every year, wonderful times follow- ing along the legs of each race, watching all the com- petition. In the evenings we went ashore for some beers and rum punch, rum and cokes, etcetera. Of course, we needed some extra cash so we went to the one and only ATM machine in English Harbour to get some money via credit card. always withdraw the same amount. phone number of your banker handy. Keep your phone number of your banker handy. Keep your Skype account topped off enough to cover relatively lengthy calls. you withdraw your cash, and a second one for which you withdraw your cash, and a second one for which there is no card. Keep the majority of your cruising funds in the second account, and use the internet or phone to transfer money from it to the primary account as needed. credit cards, call the bank and tell them which country credit cards, call the bank and or region you will be in. Ask them to decline transac- tions from any other source. This is a bit troublesome, but vastly helpful in avoiding both ATM and credit card fraud. banking institution. Ask about the hours of their banking institution. Ask Get to know your personal “trouble line” or equivalent. banker or service representative. European banks. If you are withdrawing money at a European banks. If you are local bank, go see the teller. than one in any given location. tions for cruisers: them, from a very small community bank who advised very small community bank them, from a file a police to return to the US to them they needed to a supervi- they ask to speak report. We suggested things out. were ultimately able to work sor, and they were withdrawals of over US$10,000 Their fraudulent added prob- days later. They had the returned a few and had to in their Skype account lem of low funding talk to their credit card just to use another cruiser’s wife had used both their bank. Another friend and his Harbour. Both accounts cards at the ATM in English they had no way to get had been compromised and new cards. At the time of money until their bank sent waiting for their replace- this article, they were still promised to have arrived ment cards, which were three days ago. — JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50

name maybewithheldfromprintatyourrequest. We donotpublishanonymousletters;however,your individual regattaresultscomplaints.(Kudosareokay!) clarification isrequired. a waywecancontactyou(preferablybye-mail)if Dear S/Y Thunder Ruth andTerry nitely wanttogobackagain. a dayortwo.Onceyouhavebeentherewilldefi- beers andsomegoodfoodgetawayfromitallfor adventure. Gotochilloutonthebeach,haveafew so theyaregreatifyouneedhelporadvice. everyone andeverythingthatishappeninginthearea, have timeforachatwitheveryone.Theyalsoknow spent alongtimeintheCaribbean;sheandherstaff erts. Majella,theowner,isanIrishwomanwhohas salads andsnackstomaincoursesdeliciousdes- is great,variedandinexpensive—everythingfrom were chattingwithtouristsandlocalsalike.Thefood come immediatelyandwithinaveryshorttimewe the occasionalafternoon!).Weweremadetofeelwel- clear.) Wehavespentquiteafeweveningsthere(and beach isextremelycleanandthewaterperfectly commercial jetty(butdon’tletthatputyouoff—the literally onthebeachinCharlestownBay,closeto friendly” bar/restaurant,Majella’sontheBeach.Itis snorkeling anddivingextremelyfriendlypeople. is alovelylittleislandwithbeautifulbeaches,excellent problem seemstobeinleavingagain! miss theopportunitytoanchorinCanouan.Theonly and whilecruisingtheGrenadineswewouldnever We havesailedupanddowntheislandsmanytimes, is ashamebecausethosewhodon’taremissingout. Dear — GUY DEAN DEAN GUY St. Vincent&theGrenadines Bequia Box 175BQ Readers’ Forum Compass PublishingLtd. or or fax(784)457-3410 [email protected] Send yourlettersto: Letters maybeeditedforlength,clarityandfairplay. We donotpublishindividualconsumercomplaintsor Please includeyourname,boatnameoraddress,and We wanttohearfromYOU! Don’t gotoCanouanlookingforexcitementand While there,makesureyoufindthegreat“yacht There ismoretoCanouanthantheRafflesresort.It Not manyofuscruisersseemtostopinCanouan.It Continued frompreviouspage Compass Compass , Readers, JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 I L E S P R H C H A N D Martinique Boatyard Le Marin IN MARTINIQUE Tel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 Tel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 [email protected] Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 16 Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 www.carenantilles.com BOAT MAINTENANCE BOAT MAINTENANCE THE SPECIALIST FOR THE SPECIALIST Phone (+596) 596 74 77 70 I I N R G G G Bateaux Neufs et Occasion et Bateaux Neufs International Yacht Broker International Yacht Tél: + 596 (0)596 74 74 37 Cell: + 596 (0)696 29 71 14 (0)696 29 71 Cell: + 596 37 74 Tél: + 596 (0)596 74 www.petit-breton-antilles.fr [email protected] www.petit-breton-antilles.fr [email protected] Représentant JEANNEAU, LAGOON, Fountaine PAJOT Fountaine LAGOON, Représentant JEANNEAU, Centre de Carenage 97290 Le Marin Centre de Carenage Port de plaisance, 97 290 Le MARIN, Martinique, FWI 290 Le MARIN, de plaisance, 97 Port Phone: +(596) 596 74 8033 Cell: (596) 696 27 66 05 www.caraibe-greement.fr [email protected] LE MARIN, MARTINIQUE • GRENADA continued on next page Club is the Dominica Yacht and your center for: Dominica Marine Center www.dominicamarinecenter.com [email protected] home of the to Cuba Tel: 767-448-2705 Fax: 767-448-7701 Dockmaster Tel: 767-275-2851 VHF: 16 The UNIQUE IN DOMINICA Roseau & Portsmouth Guadeloupe Visa / Master Card accepted TRANSCARAIBES 2009

Tel/Fax (473) 439-4495 [email protected] [email protected] Nick Williams, Manager Nick Williams, www.transcaraibes.com Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 Tel: Tel: + 590 (0) 690 494 590 Engineering, fabrication and welding. Fabrication and repair of Cruising Rally Grenada Marine • Spice Island Marine e-mail: [email protected] TechNick Ltd. TechNick stainless steel and aluminium items. S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada Blue, Grenada S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True SAILMAKING, RIGGING, ELECTRONICS • Yacht Mooring Anchorage • Grocery Store & Provisioning • Bakery (Sukie’s Bread Company) • Water at dock • Fuel (Unleaded / Diesel) • Ice • Yacht Chandlery agents - Budget Marine /Sea Choice Products Mercury Marine / Yanmar Marine • LP Gas (propane) refills • Showers & Toilets (WC) • Garbage Disposal • Security • Telephone & Fax • Mobile Phone Rental / SIM Top Up • Laundry WiFi Internet • Beach Bar • Nearby Restaurants • Taxi & Tour Operators • Whale Watching & Sport Fishing • Light Engine and Boat Repair • Customs / Immigration • Clearance Information

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Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you! JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 Shipchandler, Artimer Le Marin,Martinique Voiles Assistance Sails &Canvas(repairsfabrication) Open MondaytoFriday8-12am 2-6pm Tel: (0)596714161Fax:77 e-mail: [email protected] LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE located atCarenantillesdockyard tel/fax: (596)596748832 # F Saturday byappointment O L clippers[email protected] N A S G Caribbean CompassMarketPlace U S Didier andMaria M A W B I L N E D S  W C I A N R D T  E  C P A D R F T E  P  D  F                             + (599)553-3850/(590)690-222473 E-mail: [email protected] Packages Pick–upcall: Int. 001-3057042314 St. St. Maarten/ Martin, collect COURIER SERVICES CIRExpress and deliver doorto continuedonnextpage [email protected] or contactyourlocalisland agent MARKET PLACEAD YOUR THIS COULDBE Book itnow:

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emotional

significant

carried

by John Rowland

of the participants would be the envy of WHAT'S ON MY MIND WHAT'S

conversations and, as I watch the steady stream of boats and, as I watch the steady

AM any university party crowd The music, the beach-party alcohol and the festive spirit

The End of End The the Season atmosphere, the free-flowing The Antigua Classic Regatta is over, including the The Antigua Classic Regatta The conversations, before the rum dulls the senses The parallel of the Mount Gay beach party to the The parallel of the Mount Gay beach party to the Back in the university days, the end of Spring Term Back in the university days, these infamous Mount Gay “red hat” party, held this year on infamous Mount Gay “red hat” in Falmouth Harbour. Pigeon Beach. We’re anchored days, waiting for autohelm We’ll be here a few more the run south, to be out components. Then we’ll start 1 June. This cruising of the insurance “box” before likened this cruising season is over. One of my friends without the classes. It’s life to university student life, 6:30 too much, focus on the upcoming hurricane season: who is going to Trinidad, or Grenada, or Venezuela, or the ABCs; who is going to go back to North America or Europe or into the Pacific; what maintenance jobs need to be done; new equipment to be installed; how long the boat will be on the hard. And there are those who will not be cruising next season: those who’ve reached a predetermined time limit and wish to go do other things; those who need to go back to be with family; those with demanding business issues. There is also gossip about some cruising couples whose rela- tionship has cracked under the 24/7 strain of this cruising life and boats that might be for sale or be single-handed next season. The realization that we may lose contact with some of the comrades of our cruising adventures conjures up emotions and a sense of loss. The emotions mix with the music and the rum, combining to create a feeling very much akin to that felt so many years ago at university. “end of Spring Term” parties is undeniable. The “end of Spring Term” parties is undeniable. The music, the beach-party atmosphere, the free-flowing alcohol and the festive spirit of the participants would be the envy of any university party crowd. Granted, the crowd is older, but they are more prac- ticed and experienced. intensity. The emotion mixed with the music and the intensity. The emotion mixed with the music and the beer, combining to create a very poignant feeling. generated a very complex bundle of emotions. There generated a very complex over but there was also was the relief that exams were the odd sense that something ended. There were the “end of term” parties where, before the beer dulled the senses too much, conversations focused on the vari- ous plans for the upcoming summer. Most were headed for summer jobs, some in the hometown, oth- ers in some exotic resort or residence at a camp as a counselor. Some were headed for a summer academic term to help accelerate graduation or meet some missed or failed requirement. And there were those who would not be back in the fall: perhaps to go home to join the family business; perhaps to marry the girl or boy next door; perhaps called to military service; perhaps a transfer to another institution; perhaps simply facing the fact that university studies are not for everyone. As the realization that some close rela- tionships will be interrupted or terminated, some of these conversations carried significant emotional leave the harbor, my friend’s comment resonates in leave the harbor, my friend’s my mind. 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resume E-mailPaige. job description.Pleasesend getmarine.com fordetailed be UScitizen.Seewww.bud- maintenance preferred.Must marine retailand/orboat Thomas, VI.Experiencein busy marinechandleryinSt. SALESPERSON NEEDED [email protected] as aHeadChef.E-mail 2 yearsexperience ifications, internationalcuisine, proper costcontrols.Jobqual- ence toourguests,maintain deliver agreatserviceexperi- Tel (473)439-2049 [email protected] enada CVto;E-mail lished companyinGr for thestabilityofanestab- independent techlooking tion. Idealforcruiseror water makers&refrigera- electrical, electronics, enced technicianfordiesel, seeking allaroundexperi- Engineering Co,inGrenada Respected Marine WANTED IMMEDIATELY MARINE TECHNICIAN call 544-3134extension243. information please 544-4409. Foradditional budgetmarine.com, orfaxto E mailtoMarlous.vdBosch@ 434, Philipsburg,St.Maartenor Marlous v.d.Bosch,PObox to BudgetMarineN.V.attn. application includingaresume working paper.Sendwritten have DutchNationalityorvalid English andFrench tronic items Must befluentin basic testsonelectrical/elec- service skills Ability toperform ucts. Excellent depth knowledgeoftheprod- tronic marinesaleswithin customer 2 yearsexperienceinelec- Requirements: at cess fromordertodelivery. service Customer throughout thewholepro- let parts least items, Saleofpumpsandtoi- Sale ofMarineElectronic marine electronicsystems. and advisingcustomerson Key responsibilities;Assisting ELECTRONIC MARINESALES [email protected] water, Bequia.E-mail cal/cosmetic work,Inthe trimaran. Rigging/mechani- SPECIALIST INDEPENDENT REFIT [email protected] tion Tel(473)439-4495E-mail Turbulence SailsPricklyBayloca- experience neededfor RIGGING TECHNICIAN [email protected] neededfor55’ Must with with for # JUNE 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55

       $  &-   &&#   ./-   &&#  .0,,12%313%        ! "  #     %%  & ' S     # )     & *   !")     # +       ,#     &       & Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines Bequia, St Vincent [email protected] TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across TradeWinds six destinations in the Caribbean. are the fastest growing charter company, We all inclusive, 7 days. TERM CHARTERS, operating CREW VACANCIES! email: [email protected] or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth, or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550 +784 457 3407 Tel. St Vincent Tel.                   - We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess. are looking for crew, We We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. prefer We The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be. Requirements: Captain with a Skipper’s licence. Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking. Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus. full training onsite in the Caribbean. offer We This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job. Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply. If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please use this email address:

€ € € € € € € $33,500 33’ 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop, 33’ 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop, 2 Cabins - Full Option St Maarten 145 000 US$ Beneteau OCEANIS 440 1996 Sail Power MONOHULL CATAMARANS [email protected] Tel: (340) 779-1660 Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-2779 Fax: (340) 779-2779 € St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. www.stthomasyachts.com OVNI 435 2006 Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Compass Point Martinique 299 000 $89,900 44’ 1982 Ta Chiao CT Aluminium Centerboarder Like NEW ! Lagoon 410 2004 St Martin 270 000 Amel 54 2005 Full Option Tahiti 739 000 Ted Brewer 53 Motor Sailor Aluminium Amel Super Maramu 53 1998 Beneteau Oceanis 473 2003 Bavaria 36 1999 Florida Lagoon 380 2003 Belize 43 2004 Lagoon 470 2000 295 000 US$ Florida Martinique 339 000 US$ 000 163 Martinique Guadeloupe 69 500 160 000 Martinique St Martin 250 000 385 000 ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES YACHT THOMAS ST. Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale Call, fax or visit our website for a complete 14’ 2006 Aquascan Jetboat, 160HP Yamaha 14’ 2006 Aquascan Jetboat, new engines, 2005 $ 79,900 31’ 1999 Sea Ray Sundancer, crusaders great condition $ 99,000 32’ 1996 Carver 325, twin mercruisers, 18 kts, 38’ 1999 Sea Ray Sundancer, $167,000 $ 34,900 37’ 2001 Bavaria Sloop, 3 strms, Yanmar diesel 37’ 2001 Bavaria Sloop, 3 aft cockpit 40’ 1986 Hunter Legend roomy, 2 strms 40’ 1987 O’Day Sloop, Westerbeke, transom, 2 strms 43’ 1995 Hunter 430, stepped $ 79,500 $ 69,000 $119,000 60,000 $

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