Sailors in the San Blas

Home , 12 metre, 1995 Citizen Cup, Sandy Spit, Xebec

C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS FEBRUARY 2009 NNO.O. 161 TThehe CCaribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore SSAILORSAILORS IINN TTHEHE SSANAN BBLASLAS See story on page 20 JEANNIE MILLER (2)

Old-Time Trinidad Carnival SHERWIN TAYLOR See story on page 24 FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4

MILMAN WARDEN The Caribbean’sMonthlyLookatSea&Shore APIS, eSeaClearandyou? 12 ..... Oh, WhataWeb… Nt‘ase! sad...... 30 (Not ‘Hassle’!)Island ...... That’s Hassel 15 The CarlosAguilarRace ...... Matchless! See Writers’Guidelinesatwww.caribbeancompass.com.Sendsubmissions [email protected]. Caribbean Compass [email protected] Dominica MarineCenter,Tel:(767)448-2705, Dominica: [email protected] Tel: (5999)767-9042,Fax:767-9003, Curaçao: Tel/Fax: (246)423-4600 Barbados: [email protected] Tel (268)720-6868 Antigua: Compass AgentsbyIsland: [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Art, Design&Production...... WilfredDederer [email protected] Advertising &Distribution...... TomHopman [email protected] Assistant Editor...... ElaineOllivierre [email protected] Editor...... Sally Erdle www.caribbeancompass.com [email protected] Tel: (784)457-3409,Fax:457-3410 Bequia, St.VincentandtheGrenadines. Compass PublishingLtd.,P.O.Box175BQ, Caribbean Compass Sailors’ Horoscope Island Poets 33 ...... Word SearchPuzzle 32 ...... Cruising Crossword 30 All Ashore… ...... Meridian Passage 26 ...... 20 Destinations ...... 16 Regatta News...... 14 Eco-News ...... 8 Business Briefs ...... AdSales&Distribution-LucyTulloch Distribution - Cees de Jong Distribution-CeesdeJong Distribution - Doyle Sails Distribution-DoyleSails Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution -HubertJ.Winston welcomes submissionsofshortarticles,newsitems,photosanddrawings. except shortexcerptsforreviewpurposes,maybemadewithoutwritten permissionofCompassPublishingLtd. ©2009 CompassPublishingLtd.Allrightsreserved.Noreproduction, copyortransmissionofthispublication, supplied byothercompanies. Compass PublishingLtd.acceptsnoliabilityfordelayeddistributionor printingqualityastheseservicesare responsibility foranystatementsmadetherein.Lettersandsubmissions maybeeditedforlengthandclarity. sole responsibilityoftheadvertiser,writerorcorrespondent,andCompass PublishingLtd.acceptsno We supportfreespeech! is published monthly by ispublishedmonthlyby FEBRUARY 2009•NUMBER161 www.caribbeancompass.com ...... 33 ...... 32 ...... DEPARTMENTS ISSN 1605-1998 But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the Butthecontentofadvertisements,columns,articlesandlettersto editorarethe [email protected] Tel: (58-281)265-3844Tel/Fax:265-2448, Venezuela: [email protected] Tel: 868)634-2622Mob:(868)620-0978 Trinidad: Tel: (284)494-2830,Fax:494-1584 Tortola/BVI: Tel: (784)457-3527,[email protected] St. Vincent&theGrenadines: Tel: (340)7747931,[email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (599)5533850,[email protected] Distribution -EricBendahan [email protected] Mob: +590(0)6904945 Advertisers’ Index 47 ...... 47 Classified Ads ...... Caribbean MarketPlace 44 ..... What’s OnMyMind 43 ...... Readers’ Forum 40 ...... 38 Cooking withCruisers ...... Book Reviews 35 ...... 34 Dolly’s DeepSecrets ...... Cruising Kids’Corner 34 ...... 33 Cartoons ...... This isyourlife Sailors’ Shots 36 Cruisers learntocook ...... Oil DownDay 31 A historyofsaltybooty ...... Isla laTortuga Ad Sales & Distribution - Jack Dausend Ad Sales&Distribution-JackDausend Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik AdSales&Distribution-PattyTomasik Ad Sales-StéphaneLegendre St. Maarten/St.Barths/Guadeloupe: [email protected] Tel: (758)484-0555, St. Lucia: [email protected] Tel: (0596)596686971,Mob:+(0)696932638 Martinique: Tel: (473)409-9451,[email protected] Ad Sales&Distribution-AlanHooper Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Distribution-GladysJones Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution-BryanLezama ...... 42 ...... Distribution -LisaKessell Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado AdSales&Distribution-IsabellePrado

Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Ad Sales-DebraDavis, O'BRIEN 28 –1March 27 –1March andotherplaces 27 PuertoRico,Dominica,Carriacou,Trinidad&Tobago,Venezuela, 25 23 –27 23 -24 22 22 toMartiniqueandback.St.LuciaYachtClub(SLYC), tel(758)452-8350, 20 -24 [email protected], www.optiworld.org/09norMartinique.pdf 20 –22 20 –22 www.stluciayachtclub.com www.stcroixyc.com 20 -22 19 -22 16 15 ClassicYachtRegatta,Tortola.www.weyc.net 15 14 -24 14 -16 www.transcaraibes.com 14 13 –15 www.nauticodesanjuan.com 12 -15 10 –14 9 8 -17 [email protected] 8 7 –8 7 6 –27 www.montegobayrace.com 6 2 FEBRUARY FestivalinSt.Patrick’s,Grenada 18 tel(596)632676,fax9448,[email protected] 17 14 –15 14 –15 14 –15 14 13 –15 11 9 9 8 (WEYC), Tortola, BVI,tel(284)495-1002,fax495-4184, 8 6 –11 [email protected], 6 -9 (SMYC),tel(599)544-2075,fax544-2091,[email protected], 6 –7 www.weyc.net 5 -8 www.smyc.com 3 MARCH 30 -Apr5 30 28 EmancipationDay.Publicholiday 26 -29 26 -29 DinghyRegatta,PuertoRico.www.culebrainternationalregatta.com 22 21 –22 20 -22 20 19 -22 18 -22 FULL IndependenceDay.PublicholidayinGrenada MOON Pineapple Cup BaronBlissDay,PublicholidayinBelize CommonwealthDay.Publicholidayinsomeplaces InternationalWomen’sDay BudgetMarineMatchRacing,St.Maarten.Maarten YachtClub If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismevent listedFREEinourmonthlycalendar, IndependenceDay.PublicholidayintheDominicanRepublic AshWednesday.PublicholidayinCaymanIslands IndependenceDay.PublicholidayinSt.Lucia. Presidents’Day.PublicholidayinPuertoRicoandUSVI SunshineSchoolFundraisingAuction,Bequia Man-o-WarCayCraftFair,Bahamas.(242)365-6049 FlagDay.Publicholiday St.Patrick’s Day.Publicholiday NationalHeroes Day.Publicholiday SpiritualBaptistLiberationDay. PublicholidayinTrinidad&Tobago International EarthDay FULLMOON,PublicholidayinSuriname(Phagwa) 12thAnnualDarkandStormyRegatta,BVI.WestEndYachtClub 29thSt.MaartenHeinekenRegatta.www.heinekenregatta.com NecolOne-DesignRegatta,St.Maarten.www.smyc.com 10thBlues&RhythmsFestival,St.Vincent.www.svgtourism.com HavanaInternationalJazzFestival,Cuba.www.jazzcuba.com CaribbeanArts&CraftsFestival,BVI.www.caribbeanartisan.net 0hSmieNuiu colhr atnqe CarnivalMondayandTuesdayinmostDutchFrenchislands, 20thSemaineNautiqueSchoelcher,Martinique. 16thSt.CroixInternationalRegatta(firstregattaofCORT). GrenadaClassicYachtRegatta.www.grenadaclassicregatta.com LaRouteduCarnivalrally,MartiniquetoTrinidad. 31stAnnualSweetheartsoftheCaribbeanand27th 8thInternationalClubNáuticodeSanJuanRegatta,PuertoRico. St.BarthsBucketRace.www.newportbucket.com/StBarthsIndex.htm InternationalRolexRegatta,St.Thomas,USVI.www.rolexcupregatta.com CulebraHeinekenInternationalRegattaand 7thAnnualSt.JohnBluesFestival,USVI.www.stjohnbluesfestival.com RORCCaribbean600OffshoreRace,http://caribbean600.rorc.org SirJohnComptonMemorialTrophyandDiamondDashRace,St.Lucia 6thAnnualOptimistValentineRegatta,St.Croix.www.stcroixyc.com TobagoCarnivalRegatta.www.sailweek.com AroundSt.LuciaRace (tobeconfirmed).SLYC GardelTrophyRace, Guadeloupe.www.triskellcup.com GrenadaRound-the-IslandRace. at thetimethisissueof please sendthenameanddate(s)of eventandthename Cruiser/Racer OffshoreRegatta,Barbados.BYC J/24 Regatta,Barbados.BYC Budget MarineValentinesRegatta,Antigua.www.jhycantigua.com Cruiser/Racer OffshoreRegatta,Barbados.BarbadosYachtClub(BYC), 45th AnnualArtExhibition,Grenada World WetlandsDay J/24 Invitational,Barbados.BYC Bananas CupRegatta,Martinique.YachtClubdelaMartinique(YCM), J/24 Regatta,Barbados.BYC J/24 Regatta,Barbados.BYC Cruiser/Racer OffshoreRegatta,Barbados.BYC 13th AnnualTobagoGameFishingTournament.www.tgft.com BVI SpringRegatta&SailingFestival.www.bvispringregatta.org so pleasecontacteventorganizersdirectly forconfirmation. BoatyardRegatta,Barbados.BYC 1stSouthGrenadaRegatta. All informationwascorrecttothebestof ourknowledge contact informationoftheorganizingbody to

ae otg a,Jmia Race, MontegoBay,Jamaica. CALENDAR [email protected]. Compass

in Aruba wenttopress—butplanschange,

nMnsra; in Montserrat;

See adonpage11 in PuertoRico

in St.Vincent&theGrenadines See adonpage17 JANUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 visits to the

SVG’s Higher Fees Now in Effect SVG’s Higher entering St. entry fee for persons The former per-day early last year, but This fee schedule was announced Authorization US Visits Now Require Travel all nationals and citizens Beginning January 12, 2009, online through This authorization may be obtained Application is free. According to the Embassy, you Each approved ESTA application generally will be Vincent & the Grenadines by yacht (EC$5 per person Grenadines by yacht (EC$5 Vincent & the and no a maximum of seven days, per day, up to a flat fee of has been changed to charge thereafter) per month. US$13) per person EC$35 (approximately per foot per license fee is now EC$5 The charter yacht license fee occasional charter yacht month, and the (the occa- for yachts from 31 to 50 feet is now EC$125 sizes remains yacht license fee for other sional charter the same). into effect. has only recently been put are required to of Visa Waiver Program countries prior to initiating travel by obtain a travel authorization and its territories for air or sea to the United States Visa Waiver Program temporary business or pleasure. France, Germany, Ireland, countries include Australia, Zealand, Spain, Sweden Italy, the Netherlands, New others. and the United Kingdom, among Authorization (ESTA), at the Electronic System for Travel to a press release https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov. According “ESTA counterbal- from the US Embassy in Barbados, in visa-free travel by ances vulnerabilities inherent of advanced scrutiny establishing an additional layer to focus on the small pop- that will enable DHS officers ulation of potentially dangerous travelers.” are not required to have specific plans to travel to the United States before applying for an ESTA and may apply at any time, but at least 48 hours in advance of travel. The website is available in 16 languages and includes a help section that provides additional information to guide travelers through the application process. In most cases, ESTA will provide an almost imme- diate determination of eligibility for travel. If authorization is denied, the traveler must obtain a non-immi- grant visa at a US Embassy before traveling to the US. If the on-line form is not filled out, the traveler may be denied entry to the US. valid for two years and allows for multiple US within that period. —Continued on next page newspaper, The Daily Herald The daily anchoring charge is currently only for The daily anchoring charge According to a report in However, feedback from visiting yachtsmen indicates approximately US$1.40. other French-side Marigot and does not affect are ongoing about anchorages (although discussions in Grand Case Bay) also implementing their collection an additional charge of 5 or the lagoon. There is also euros to clear out. Ellis said the new Ports Authority Director Alberic for the better devel- anchorage fees were necessary are currently being put in opment of the bay: “Efforts on the dock. We have place to provide more security cameras to watch over already installed surveillance will be added. The dinghies and more cameras Collectivité is also looking into improving the lighting on the waterfront, and on the dock in particular where the dinghies are tied up… If we are to continue giving the level of service expected of us, that comes with a price. That said, we fully recognize the yachting and marine industry’s significant contribution to our economy. Naturally we want to keep St. Martin/St. Maarten as an important port of call.” that “boats are leaving here in droves” and “St. Martin/ St. Maarten is now a less attractive destination alto- gether, considering that the other alternative — clearing on the Dutch side — is so tedious and expensive.” One boatowner calculated that the new anchoring fee would add US$176 to his proposed month’s stay in Marigot. “We were planning to stay and buy new anchor chain and have some rigging work done, but this adds too much to the price so we left.”

CHRIS DOYLE

The initial administrative fee for arriving non-resident New Fees for Marigot, St. Martin French Saint Martin, All vessels anchoring in Marigot, Yachts anchored last year in Marigot, St. Martin yachts, which includes the first day’s anchoring charges, is charged according to length and ranges from 20 euros for boats 8 to 13 metres long to 150 euros for boats of more than 75 metres. Non-resident boats are then charged an anchoring fee of 0.25 euros per metre per day for Days 2 and 3; and 0.35 euros per metre per day for Day 4 and thereafter. Residents of French St. Martin pay a reduced rate of 0.13 euros per metre per day. One euro is currently must now pay anchorage fees that were implement- must now pay anchorage fees January 1st. ed by the Ports Authority effective

& Updates & Info FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 ed foursingle-handedcircumnavigationsona31-foot Merchant Navy,rightafterWorldWarII.Hecomplet- sailor wenttoseaattheageof16withNorwegian Porlamar, Venezuela,atage76.TheGerman-born well-known figuresintheCaribbeansailingcommunity. tal inthefamily’ssurvival. The CoastGuardbelievestheseitemswereinstrumen- medical kit,rations,torchlightsandothersurvivaltools. Inside theirraftwerebagsofwater,severalflares,a Bazins alongwiththeirliferaftwerebroughtonboard. the CoastGuardvessel Guard. APacific24speedboatwaslaunchedfrom Vincent. TheyrequestedbackupfromtheT&TCoast fired inthesky,85nauticalmilessouth-southwestofSt. night, oneoftheBarbadosaircraftspottedaflare launched aircrafttojointhesearch.OnSunday launched. BothBarbadosandMartiniquealso Barbados, MartiniqueandTrinidad&Tobago,was between severalregionalCoastGuardunits,including abandon ship. said hetriedtoeffectrepairsbutultimatelyhad causing ittoopen,andtheboatbegansink.Bazin large wavescrashedagainsttheweakenedhull, the catamaran,crackingitshull,Bazinsaid.More “terrible” weatherandabigwavecrashedagainst But whilesailingtoVenezuela,theBazinsencountered made asuccessfultransatlanticjourneyfromFrance. been dockedinMartiniquesinceApril,aftertheBazins local newspapersthatthefamily’scatamaranhad Alexis, hadspentfourdaysintheraft. Pascal andJoelletheirchildrenMelanie while sailingfromMartiniquetoVenezuela.Thefamily, 28th, 2008,aftertheircatamaran, French BazinfamilyfromtheirliferaftonDecember expiration date. receive anESTAvaliduntilthepassport’s whose passportswillexpireinlessthantwoyears, — On Jan3rd,UtzMüllerTreudiedathishomein We regrettoreportthepassinglastmonthofthree Eight Bells Despite theincident,Bazinsaidhestillwantstosail. A distresssignalwassent.collaborativeeffort Speaking withtheaidofatranslator,Pascaltold The Trinidad&TobagoCoastGuardpickedupthe French FamilyRescuedfromLiferaft For moreinformationvisitwww.cbp.gov/esta. Travelers whoseapplicationsareapproved,but Continued frompreviouspage TTS Chacachacare L’Ile Deal andthe , sank moved ashoretolivewithfriendsinPorlamar. times. InJanuaryoflastyear,Utzsold Fröken flagged, ColinArcher-designedwoodencutter to cruisetheCaribbeanaboardNorwegian- wooden Norwegianfishingvesselbeforesettlingdown So Ileft.”FrenchiecrewedaboardStreet’slegendary French armyshootingupArabsinthehillsofAlgeria? “What thehellwasablackWestIndiandoingin to escapeserviceintheFrencharmy,tellingDon, Frenchie wasborninMartiniqueandfledtoGrenada According tocruisingguideauthorDonStreet, rendered homelessbyHurricaneIvanin2004. wright friendBones(alsoknownasPilgrim)sincebeing and hadbeenlookedafterbythesisterofhisship- illness. Hehadnoknowncloserelativesontheisland in thehospitalSt.George’s,Grenada,afterabrief tions ofboatersinGrenadaasFrenchie,passedaway and long-time Caribbean cruiser and long-timeCaribbeancruiser The lateUtzMüllerTreu,four-timesolocircumnavigator On January7th,RamaultChassol,knowntogenera- . Hesoloed Fröken acrosstheAtlanticfive Fröken and —Continuedonnextpage visit www.tobagocays.com. most popularyachtingdestinationsintheGrenadines. main regulations.TheTobagoCaysareoneofthe understand boththefeaturesofparkand This shouldnowbegiventovisitorsonarrivalsothey Park, ithasproducedanewbrochureforthePark. that incollaborationwiththeTobagoCaysMarine all thosegoodcruisingguides,ishappytoannounce night voyages,119cabinsareavailable. bar andrestaurantaboard,asouvenirshopand,for with roomfor674passengersand148cars.Thereisa aboard the106-metre voyages perweek.The“cruiseferry”servicewillbe and Fort-de-France,Martinique,offeringfiveround-trip a ferryservicebetweenPointe-à-Pitre,Guadeloupe month’s work. TherewillbeastoryaboutMarianninnext where shebecamefamousforherknot-tyingrope- deck. MariannmovedashoreonBequiain1995, benefit Bequia’sSunshineSchoolon Caribbean, andorganizedthefirstmarineauctionto and Peterchartered Roren hadbuiltintheirbackgardenOslo.Mariann ketch 1984 aboardthe50-foot,gaff-riggedColinArcher island ofBequia,MariannarrivedintheCaribbean diagnosed withcancer.Along-timeresidentofthe died inhernativeNorway,afterhavingbeenrecently development intheEasternCaribbean.” been thegoldenerainGrenada’shistoryofyachting been noFrenchieandBonestherewouldnothave engineer andyachtsmanRaySmithsays,“Hadthere winch operatedbyFrenchieandBones.Grenadian which yachtswerehauledoutbyahand-powered in 1960,theclubinstalledamarinerailwayupon Shortly afterconstructionoftheGrenadaYachtClub strated “BlackPower”bybendingwinchhandles. the late1960sandearly’70s,duringwhichhedemon- engineless yawl, For moreinformationonthemarinepark Chris DoylePublishing,thecompanythatproduces New BrochurefortheTobagoCays For moreinformationvisitwww.caribbean-spirit.net. The CompagnieMaritimedelaCaraïbehasbegun New FerryServiceLinksGuadeloupe,Martinique On January15th,Mariann“WhyKnot”Palmborg Fredag Compass , whichsheandherthenpartnerPeter Iolaire . Fredag , inmanyregionalregattas Spirit Star intheSouthern , aroll-on/roll-offvessel Fredag’s spacious FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7

MARIA NEUBAUER we welcome new advertisers Compass For more information contact [email protected]. For more information Puerto Rico Paddle Planned Martinique to direction of the archaeologist Under the scientific the 400-plus miles The group’s next goal is to paddle For more information contact [email protected]. Welcome Aboard! In this issue of A Karisko crew crossing the Dominica Channel Hermitage, Carriacou, coinciding with the Carriacou coinciding with the Hermitage, Carriacou, Regatta Festival. et de la from the Université des Antilles Benoit Bérard is Karisko association Guyane, the Martinique-based research experimental archaeological developing an use of the pre-Columbian program concerning of the program, two canoes in the Antilles. As part made by Kali’na 60-foot offshore dugout canoes French Guyana Amerindians from Surinam and Martinique and crossed the channel between paddled by a 28-man Dominica in May of last year, the Dominican Carib team including people from Great Britain Territory, Germany, Austria, and Martinique. in May 2009 — a voy- from Martinique to Puerto Rico 160 paddling hours. The age estimated to take some organization of this type of expedition is far from being easy and cheap, and Karisko is looking for captains and crew to man the five liveaboard catamarans that will act as supply and safety vessels accompanying the canoes. South Grenada Regatte, page17, and Marina ZarPar of the Dominican Republic, page 29. Good to have you with us! In another project, graduate students from the The CCEF is an informal, voluntary group of individu- Joining the 2007 recipients, Stacy Bain and Rena recipients, Stacy Bain and Joining the 2007 Thanks in part to cruisers’ generosity, Mt. Pleasant Thanks in part to cruisers’ computer skills second and third graders learn Paul and Marcia Scott. For the school year beginning Paul and Marcia Scott. For full tuition for two September 2008, CCEF is providing the recipients, along with years at TAMCC for each of be used to help cover EC$1000 for each student to recipients are the cost of textbooks. Scholarship selected by the principals of the two secondary schools in Carriacou, based on CXC scores and financial need. Department of Sociology and Anthropology at North Carolina State University who have done research on Carriacou have helped raise funds to donate computers to the island’s primary schools. The CCEF has provided more than EC$4,500, matching funds raised locally two-to-one, for the completion of electrical wir- ing at Dover Government School and the purchase and installation of air conditioners for the computer labs at Dover and Mt. Pleasant schools. The CCEF has also committed to matching grants to help the island’s other schools with their computer labs. als from visiting yachts, and a number of concerned local businessmen and women. Since 2000, the CCEF has conducted fundraising activities during the first week of August at the Carriacou Yacht Club in of CCEF scholarships to EC$10,000. of CCEF scholarships Tahera Charles, Reann Martineau, Noel, are Carnisha , PM weekdays. PM This is an open exhibit, This is an open . In those days, cruisers

and 3:00 Fredag AM (same location as in previous years) on the (same location as in previous

Continued from previous page Continued from It all began in 1990 when Norwegian sailors Mariann It all began in 1990 when Norwegian In subsequent years, more and more items have In subsequent years, more and Even if you are not going to be in Bequia on February Cruisers Continue to Assist Carriacou Students Visiting yachts and local businesses continue to assist For information on the auction contact Lisa For information about the Sunshine School visit www. See Grenada’s Best Art! See Grenada’s Grenada the 27th of February, the From the 6th to For more information contact Susan Mains contact Susan Mains For more information Bequia Sailors’ and Landlubbers’ Auction, Landlubbers’ Auction to Bequia’s annual Sailors’ and and the auction starts at 2:00. back” to their favourite and Peter decided to “give Auction aboard their island, and held a Marine Gear double-ended ketch brought items they wanted to sell and put a price on brought items they wanted price went to the them. Any amount over this Sunshine School. to do with the sea. been donated that have nothing and winches Recently, in between the anchors local artists, lawn fur- appear paintings by well-known are happy to join in. niture and more, and landlubbers Snacks and beverages will be on sale and all pro- ceeds from these sales go to the school, as well. 15th, look around your boat or home at all that stuff which is just too good to toss, and pass it on. Drop off donated items before February 13th at the Sunshine School between 9:00 local students through the fundraising efforts of the Carriacou Children’s Education Fund (CCEF). Following their initial award of two scholarships in 2007, CCEF has awarded four additional scholarships to T.A. Marryshow Community College, Carriacou campus, for the 2008-10 school years, bringing the total amount at (784) 431-6332. bequiasunshineschool.org. Arts Council will stage its annual exhibit in a very con- stage its annual exhibit in Arts Council will on across the street from Courts venient location, St. George’s. Young Street in — and will display works by artists resident in Grenada as works by artists resident in and will display living abroad. well as Grenadians at [email protected]. for children with special benefit the Sunshine School February 15th, at needs will be held on Sunday, Portofino begins at 1:00 shore of Admiralty Bay. A preview FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8

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Courtesy Flags Wir sprechenDeutsch & DivingGear Snorkeling andrepair Penn Service Penn Parts Penn Reels English, intheforeground,andFalmouth,behind The fleetattheAntiguaCharterYachtMeetingwasonviewtwoadjacentharbours: BUSINESS BRIEFS was quotedinarecentissueof shows, NeilMoore,directorandheadofchartermanagementforBurgessyachts, what boatstosee—andmissseeing.Regardingthesimultaneous appear atbothshows,andbrokersnowhavetomakeatoughdecisionregarding kers moretimetospendaboardeachyacht. large powerboats,butbeingmorecompactlycontainedinonemarina,itgivesbro- Falmouth Harbours.TheSt.Maarteneventdisplaysfeweryachts,andthoseonly powerboats. Butbeingsolarge,itisdividedbetweentwolocations—Englishand attracts alargernumberofyachtsandincludesmagnificentsailingvesselsaswell Boat inShow”award. a 190-footAbekingandRasmussenpowerboatlaunchedlastyear,wonthe“Best in SimpsonBayLagoon,featuredmorethan30crewedmegayachts. Dinner Party. parties, andaccordingtomany,thehighlightofthisyear’sshowwasWelcome world aswellmembersoftheinternationalyachtingpress.Antiguaisfamousfor representatives ofmorethanahundredyachtcharteragenciesfromaroundthe — manyofthemnewtotheshowwereviewedandinterviewedbysome200 ranging from56to198feetinlength.Thegleamingyachtsandtheirbeamingcrews the finestyachtscharteringthiswinterinCaribbean. and theSt.MaartenCharterShow,December6ththrough9th,showcasedmanyof —Continuedonnextpage mental education,environmentalmanagement andsafety,otherservices. wide, throughtheestablishmentofstrict criteria regardingwaterquality,environ- Education. Thegoalissustainabledevelopment atbeachesandmarinasworld- ed bytheindependent,non-profitorganization FoundationforEnvironmental tus fortheirPortLouisMarina.BlueFlagis avoluntaryeco-labelownedandoperat- 90 metres,including73superyachtberths ofmorethan25metresinlength. length. Whencompleted,PortLouiswilloffer almost400berthsforcraftfromtento berths. Themarinacannowaccommodate 30superyachtsinexcessofmetres Grenada, wasorganizedtoofficiallyopenthefirststageofmarina’ssuperyacht event, whichwasmarkedbyoneofthelargestfireworksdisplayseverseenon public sectorsinpartnershiptodeveloptheyachtingindustryGrenada.The the Hon.PeterDavidspokehighlyofeffortsbeingmadebyprivateand 20th attheCamper&NicholsonsPortLouisMarina,GrenadianMinisterofTourism organizers befarbehind? ly beneficialcooperationinschedulingnon-conflictingevents.Willthechartershow in anybody’sinterest.” In Grenada,PortLouis’sseasonlaunchsaid,‘Bigupandgogreen!’ Holding thetwoshowsatsametimeisproblematic.Someboatswouldliketo Both showshavemuchtocommendthem.Thelong-establishedAntiguashow The St.Maartenshow,nowinitsfifthyearandsetatthePortdePlaisancemarina More than70sailingandmotoryachtssignedupforthevenerableAntiguashow, The 47thannualAntiguaCharterYachtMeeting,heldDecember4ththrough9th, Charter ShowsShowTheirStuff Looking ahead,Camper&Nicholsonsis in theprocessofobtaining“BlueFlag”sta- Speaking attheexclusivelaunchofyachtingseasononSaturdayDecember Caribbean YachtingSeasonLaunchedatPortLouis,Grenada The regattaorganizersoftheCaribbeanareincreasinglyshowingaspiritmutual- Dockwalk magazineassaying,“Ican’tseethatit’s Lady Sheridan , FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 Le Marin THE THE SPECIALIST FOR BOAT MAINTENANCE IN MARTINIQUE Zinc Anodes Plumbing Marine Paints Batteries Epoxy Antifouling , Centre de Carenage 97290 Le Marin Tel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 16 [email protected] Tel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 16

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Cruising Guide to —Continued on next page . The book is available free at www.noonsite.com and at Continued from previous page Continued from Unlike many other parts of Jamaica, Port Antonio prides itself on its distinctive “laid Unlike many other parts of Jamaica, Port Antonio prides the Miami International The Errol Flynn Marina and Boatyard will be exhibiting at For more information see ad on page 14. Caraïbe-Yachts Expands with New Name rapidly, opening new offic- The Caraïbe-Yachts brokerage company is expanding For more information see ad on page 43. Newest Marina in Dominican Republic Marina ZarPar is the Dominican Republic’s newest marina with space for 360 boats Marina ZarPar is located 12 miles east of the capital, Santo Domingo, and seven Marina ZarPar sponsored the development of the first complete “From the inception of the project we had Blue Flag certification as a goal,” says Blue Flag certification as of the project we had “From the inception be successful, we must properly manage vessels and “In order for the project to Grenadian boatowners will be allowed to leave their vessels at anchor with no Grenadian boatowners will on page 20. For more information see ad News from Port Antonio, Jamaica Jamaica’s new North Coast Highway should have Errol Flynn Marina reports that The marina has bilingual staff who are anxious to assist cruisers in the exploration of For more information see ad on page 29. Shipwrights Ltd. Moves to New Grenada Location Shipwrights Limited, formerly operating in the Grenada Marine boatyard, recently The company and its owner, Fred Thomas, have a long history in the Caribbean, River rafting is the thing to do in Jamaica, but the new North Coast Highway providesRiver rafting is the thing to do in Jamaica, but the new an easier way to get to Errol Flynn Marina! Norman Manley International Airport will be aboard at Errol Flynn that much faster. Norman Manley International Airport will be aboard at fact that Portland Parish, in back” traditional West Indian atmosphere, and on the crime rate in Jamaica, but which Port Antonio is located, boasts not only the lowest also the entire Caribbean. Convention Center. The Boat Show, February 12th through 16th, at the Miami Beach and runs concurrently Miami show is one of the largest marine shows in the world Strictly Sail at Miami Marina. with the Miami Brokerage and Super Yacht Show, plus San Juan Convention In March, Errol Flynn Marina and Boatyard will be at the Boat Show. Center, March 6th through 8th for the Puerto Rico International will only be used es around the Caribbean. In the future, the name Caraïbe-Yachts will be Caribbean-Yachts. in Martinique and Guadeloupe. In other places the name popular Transcaraibes and Stéphane Legendre, well known as the organizer of the other Caribbean yacht rallies, has recently joined the Caribbean-Yachts office in St. Martin as a sales agent. up to 120 feet long. The marina has a controlling depth of ten feet with slips and moorings providing 30/50 and 100-amp service, and free WiFi. miles east of the Dominican Republic’s international airport. Clyde Rawls, General Manager. “The marina will not just be complying with the will not just be complying Manager. “The marina Clyde Rawls, General on the envi- way as to have as little impact but we are building it in a requirements, ensure strict has taken many steps to Camper & Nicholsons ronment as possible.” are floating The pontoons being installed standards are adhered to. environmental In addi- disturbance to the seabed. promote marine life and minimize docks, which materials into of waste and other harmful prohibits the dumping tion, the company that removes a sewage pump-out system marina has also installed the Lagoon. The Until now, the national sewage system. boats and puts it into waste from docked of vessels utilizing the Lagoon have not been moni- the waste-generating activities hazards and over the years, diminishing tored, creating potential environmental water clarity and quality. To this end, all vessels anchored within the marina’s their activities in the Lagoon. — boundaries must register and dock in our berthing areas. The navigational channel dock in our berthing areas. The navigational channel boundaries must register and however, those remaining at anchor within Camper will, of course, remain open, will be charged a usage fee,” Rawls said. and Nicholsons’ boundaries no longer makes it practical. Grenadian citi- charge, until continued construction discount on berthing rates. zens will also receive a 30-percent at Port Antonio by the end of last month, cutting tran- reached the marina’s location of Kingston to Port Antonio by at least half an hour. The sit time from the capital city has been considered a major deterrent in the tourism poor condition of the old road Now, boatowners and crew arriving by air at the development of Port Antonio. the Dominican Republic www.ssca.org. It can be downloaded at no charge in English, French and Spanish and it has been hailed as the most comprehensive guide ever written for the entire Dominican Republic. As well as a complete commentary on the culture of the Dominican Republic, it also includes new strategies on those cruisers going east and south from the Bahamas and Turks & Caicos. the Dominican Republic. announced the relocation of its operations. The new facility is located on the waterfront in the same bay, St. David’s Harbour, but as an independent enterprise. Shipwrights Limited is now back to being a one-stop boat shop. A new side-to, boat- friendly wooden dock with a 14-foot draft will facilitate in-the-water projects just steps from the shop. having initially operated in Tortola, British Virgin Islands, from the late 1970s through 1990. After a short stint in Trinidad, Shipwrights moved to Grenada to contribute exper- tise during the development stage of Grenada Marine boatyard and the overall recreational marine industry in Grenada with Jason Fletcher, owner of Grenada Marine. FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10

AMERON ABC3TINFREESELFPOLISHINGANTIFOULINGPAINT THE CRUISINGSAILOR`SCHANDLERY SINCE1990 CORNER: MIRANDA C T TEL: 58(281)265-3844-E-MAIL :[email protected] E O L : R

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— planned forlaterthisyear. and onefive-passengerBeechcraftQueen Air.AsecondBrittenNormanIslanderis began inJanuary. London’s GatwickAirportandStKitts’Robert L.BradshawInternationalAirport international connectingpassengerstransit. Aweeklyscheduledservicebetween number ofislands.TheseincludeAntigua andSt.Kitts,wherethevastmajorityof [email protected] (forAntiguainformation). make advancereservationsandcanbuyaticketatthedepartureport. US$130), whileone-wayfaresareEC$200(£50orUS$75).Passengersdonotneed to 27-mile crossinginapproximatelyonehour.ReturntripscostEC$350(about£90or Saturdays. Thisair-conditionedferrycarries149passengersandwillcompletethe III tion sinceDecember2008.FromFebruary16th,thelargeandspeedy Department forInternationalDevelopment,arenewedservicehasbeeninopera- vice foralmostthreeandahalfyears,butthankstofinancialsupportfromtheUK’s ferries fromneighbouringAntigua.Montserrathasbeenwithoutaregularferryser- story canenjoytheDVDpackageatanintroductorypriceofUS$100. such aspecialplace. DVD thathighlightstherebirthofMontserratandmagicmakesisland uation proceduresfortheisland’sresidentsandvisitors.Alsoincludedisabonus explosions thatcauseddomecollapses,ashfalls,blackoutsandtheextensiveevac- tion oftheactivesteamventsinTarRiverValleyanddevelopsintodramatic Montserrat’s perseverancethroughdifficulttimes.Thestorybeginswiththedepic- the volcano’seruption,devastationthatfollowed,andinspiringnarrativeof entitled based LivingLettersProductionshascompletedacommemorativeDVDbox-set dark-sand beaches,untouchedreefsandworld-classnaturetrails. es despitecontinuousvolcanicactivity,boastinglushgreenmountains,deserted its mostfamousresident.Oncethere,itisevidenttoseethatthedestinationflourish- thrill-seekers andadventuretravelershaveventuredtothesecludedislandview Decking Systems,andstillalsoofferhand-laiddecks. project managementandhaulorlaunchsupervision.TheyaredealersforTeak limiting thenumberofprojectsaccepted.Otherservicesincludetotalorpartial pride themselvesongivingprojects,smallorlarge,thatlittlebitofextraattentionby for superiorquality,Fredandhiscrewalwaysprovideverypersonalizedservice Grenada Marine. A newDVDchroniclestherecenthistoryofMontserratanditsSoufriereHillsvolcano The newShipwrights’buildinganddockatSt.David’s,Grenada For [email protected] The Caribfleetcurrentlyconsistsofoneeight–passenger BrittenNormanIslander, Carib Aviationcurrentlyofferscharterair servicesintoandoutofMontserratfroma …or byAir [email protected](forMontserratinformation)or Transport linkstoMontserratarebeingboostedwiththere-introductionoffast- Getting toMontserratbySea… For [email protected]. Those eagertolearnmoreaboutthevaliantstrugglethatisMontserrat’ssuccess In tributetotheisland’sresilienceandmeteoricrisefromashes,Montserrat- Since thestartoferuptionsatMontserrat’sSoufrièreHillsvolcanoinmid-1990s, DVD: ChroniclesofMontserrat For moreinformationcontactFredThomasat(473)443-1062,[email protected]. The focusofthecompanyisinrefitandrestorationfineyachts.Renowned Shipwrights continuestomaintainanexcellentworkingrelationshipwith willbeoperatingtwodailyreturnservicesonMondays,Wednesdays,Fridaysand Continued frompreviouspage The PriceofParadise . Thenine-volumecollectionfeaturestheprecursorsto

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FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 associations, hostedameetingwithJRCCrepresenta- umbrella bodyfornationalrecreationalmarinetrades try, theCaribbeanMarineAssociation(CMA), Alarmed atthisthreattotheregionalyachtingindus- existing CustomsandImmigrationprocedures. tions thatdemandedthisextrastepinadditionto pliance withAPISwas,theybegantoavoiddestina- yacht speedsanddistancesbetweenislands. or arrival,whichwassometimesnotfeasiblegiven complex timetablerelevanttotimesofdepartureand/ pleted formweretobemadeaccordingastrictbut thousand passengernames.Submissionsofthecom- ute and“5LetterPortCodes”,hadroomfora on-line formthataskedfortimesofarrivaltothemin- (www.caricomeapis.org) andaccuratelycompletean for anythinguptofourhoursaccessthewebsite documented, withyachtskippersreportedlystruggling ational sailorhadwiththeAPIsystemhavebeenwell yachts comply.Theproblemsthattheaveragerecre- and St.Vincent&theGrenadines—evertriedmaking only threecountries—Antigua&Barbuda,Barbados, (APIS) officiallywentintoeffectonFebruary1st,2007, other criminalsbeforearrival. enhance bordersecuritybydetectingterroristsand Tobago andGuyana.Thesystemwasintendedto Vincent &theGrenadines,Grenada,Trinidad St. Kitts&Nevis,Dominica,Barbados,Lucia, ber state.TheseincludedJamaica,Antigua&Barbuda, ing yachts,arrivingatanddepartingfromeachmem- (JRCC) inBarbadosbyallairandseacarriers,includ- mitted totheJointRegionalCommunicationCentre requiring AdvancePassengerInformationtobetrans- Economic Community(CARICOM)passedlegislation ously inopportunetime. period ofhibernationitmightbewakingupataseri- 20 years.”“It”wassomethingcalledAPIS,andaftera will putcharteringandcruisingintheCaribbeanback Eastern Caribbeanmore,”andDonStreetagreed:“It anything thatwilldisruptyachtingtourisminthe As yachtskippersdiscoveredhowproblematiccom- Although thisAdvancePassengerInformationSystem In early2007,tenmemberstatesoftheCaribbean In 2007,ChrisDoylewrote,“Itishardtothinkof APIS-OFF THEYACHTS PLEASE DON’T ty… [to]revisittherequirementsofAPIS,asit tion oftheseprocedures,asproposed,atthistime.” regional groupingcouldnotcommittotheimplementa- Authority accordinglyagreedthattheOECSasasub- on yachtingtourismintheOECSsub-region.The requirements areonerousandwouldimpactnegatively OECS AuthorityhastakenthepositionthatAPIS tions ofyachtsvisitingtheCaribbeanregion…The under regionalsecurityarrangements,totheopera- the applicationofrequirements[APIS]asproposed about theadverse,albeitunintended,consequencesof holders intheEasternCaribbeanyachtingindustry are beingexpressedbybothpublicandprivatestake- Baptiste: “Asyoumaybeaware,anumberofconcerns Ishmael wrotetoJRCCDirectorCommanderLouis industry intheEasternCaribbean. consequences oftheapplicationAPIStoyachting (Heads ofGovernment),discussionswereheldonthe and attheMay2008meetingofOECSAuthority OECS CouncilofTourismMinistersheldinApril2008, growth shouldbeencouraged.”Atthemeetingof cruise visitors,itisasectorinwhichsustainable yacht visitorscontributemoretotheeconomythan visitors totheislands.Givenwell-knownfactthat tem initspresentformwillserveasadeterrenttoyacht Virgin Islands)expressedconcernthat“the[API]sys- Vincent &theGrenadines,AnguillaandBritish Grenada, Montserrat,StKitts&Nevis,St.Lucia, Caribbean States(OECS:Antigua&Barbuda,Dominica, revision specifictotheyachtingsector. to waivetheAPISrequirementforyachtspendingits yachts. St.LuciaenactedlegislationinDecember2007 prudently lettheirAPISlawsgounenforcedregarding ance wereabandonedandmostothercountriesinvolved concerns intoconsideration. the website,andagreedtotakeyachtingstakeholders’ to maketheformmoreuser-friendlyandimprove JRCC’s ComplianceOfficersaidtheywouldbewilling tives onOctober8th,2007,inTrinidad.Atthattime, Dr. Ishmaelsuggestedthatthiswas“anopportuni- In June2008,OECSDirectorGeneralDr.Len The SecretariatoftheOrganisationEastern Meanwhile, thethreerequestsforyachts’APIScompli- some other,lessdamaging,mechanism? barrier, orcansecurityconcernsbeaddressedthrough somehow bemadeabenefittoyachtingratherthan international competitiveness,nothinderit.CanAPIS rity ismeanttosupporteconomicbenefitandenhance meeting, asecureenvironmentisimportant,butsecu- May. AsDr.IshmaelpointedoutinlastNovember’s ministerial-level meetingsthismonthandinApril in tougheconomictimes? visits toleratethisaddedbarriertointer-islandtravel friendly, canthesmallcountriesthatdependonyacht regulations andon-lineformaremademoreuser- yachts, thusfacilitatingyachtvisits.EvenifAPIS’s order tosimplifytheprocessofclearinginandoutfor standardized CustomsandImmigrationproceduresin Latin AmericaandtheCaribbeanin2004washaving taken bytheUnitedNationsEconomicCommissionfor a SubregionalMarineBasedTourismStrategy”under- recommendation ofthestudyentitled“Development cruising areawithnumerousnationalborders.Akey implemented inrespectofyachts. Governments hadsigneduptoAPIS,itbe ments andwasinsistentthat,becauseallCARICOM not haveamandatetowaiveanyexistingrequire- a saferegion.However,sheindicatedthatherteamdid concerns whileensuringthattheCaribbeanremained industry andtoseehowbesttakeaccountofthese in ordertounderstandtheconcernsofyachting replied thatherdelegationwasattendingthemeeting that theywouldnotliketoseeAPIScontinue. and thatOECSPrimeMinistershaveclearlystated of APIShadanintrusiveimpactontheyachtingsector keep tourismafloat.”Sheemphasizedthatthelaunch the sailingbusinessthatremainedhealthyandhelped countries foundthemselvesinasimilarplight…itwas tourism, shenoted,“In1991whenhotelsintheOECS rent globaleconomicsituation’seffectonland-based the economiclifeofpeople.”Referringtocur- CARICOM countries,yachtingplaysacrucialpartin November 27th,2008,inSt.Lucia. yachting industrystakeholderswasdulyheldon for CrimeandSecurity(IMPACS),JRCCpersonnel representatives, theCARICOMImplementationAgency enhancing bordersecurity.”AmeetingbetweenOECS manner thatdoesnotcompromisetheobjectiveof the economicconcernsofyachtingindustryina pertains totheyachtingsector;thisinabidresolve This issuewillberaisedatregionalandsubregional It’s achallengetofacilitateyachttourisminsingle Lynne AnneWilliams,ExecutiveDirectorIMPACS, There Dr.Ishmaelsaid,“FortheOECS,unlikeother FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 shipments & marine services providing easy access for large In contrast, eSeaClear is simply an alternative alternative eSeaClear is simply an In contrast, What About Risk Assessment? have the possibility of con- With eSeaClear, authorities Ultimately, eSeaClear could have a wider spread. Looking Forward Customs offices in countries now implementing Many observers hope that eSeaClear will some day • Drive-down dock garbage disposal & washroom cable TV, 24hr security, water, fuel, telephone & internet, yacht makes. In its existing form, its requirements are In its existing form, its requirements yacht makes. the average sometimes impossible for impractical and non-compli- to comply with, fines for yacht’s skipper without any and it was imposed ance are draconian, industry. with the regional yachting prior consultation headed by ex- by an organization APIS is administered contact with, who seem to have little military personnel of, the yachting industry. or knowledge yacht clear- data to Customs for method for providing layer of red tape, it ance. Rather than adding another both by saving data can minimize form-filling duties and departure details are and because both entry on the same screen. Use of entered at the same time, so there are no the eSeaClear system is voluntary, ESeaClear was devel- problems with non-compliance. between the public and oped through cooperation feedback is solicited. private sectors, and users’ and yachting inter- ESeaClear is driven by Customs with Customs, but ests. We’ve all had our hassles yachts for the past 40 Customs has worked with to do so on a daily basis. years or so and continues to promote the regional And the CMA’s mission is yachting industry. to the arrival of the vesselducting risk assessments prior information is effortlesslyand its crew and the clearance Clearance System. APIS pro- transmitted to the Regional for being voluntary,ponents have criticized eSeaClear but would persons with reason to evade the law be likely to volunteer information by either system? APIS was signed onto by ten CARICOM member states. CCLEC is a union of some 35 Customs entities including EU and US territories. eSeaClear have, or are in the process of getting, computers for officers’ use. It is intended that computers will eventually be available for skippers’ eSeaClear data input on arrival as well. replace all existing Customs and Immigration forms in all participating countries, and that having completed an eSeaClear declaration prior to or on arrival at the first participating country only an update of the eSeaClear declaration would be required when a yacht visits other participating countries. • Electricity (110, 220 & 380 3-phase), with full marina facilities • 30 stern-to berths, 30 alongside berths up to 350’ LOA, 21’ Draft • Excellent dockage for Super-yachts

CMA and CCLEC Cooperation CMA and CCLEC Customs developed by the Caribbean ESeaClear was wrote to President of the CMA, Keats Compton, welcomes the initia- Mr. Moore responded, “CCLEC At that time, the expectation was that a standard- ESeaClear Compared to APIS Probably because both systems feature on-line In brief, APIS is intended to gather information about Law Enforcement Council (CCLEC) as part of a part of a Council (CCLEC) as Law Enforcement the pro- System set up to facilitate Regional Clearance The traveling around the Caribbean. cessing of yachts the umbrella Association (CMA), Caribbean Marine associa- recreational marine trades body for national and promotes supports eSeaClear tions in the region, its use to yachtsmen. Secretary, in 2006: Merton Moore, CCLEC Permanent Marine Association “The primary aim of the Caribbean yachting destination is to make the region the premier one sea’. We recognize with the theme ‘many islands, an integral part of the that Customs formalities are that the existence of a yachting experience, and a unique opportunity regional Customs entity presents organizations. We are for cooperation between our existence of a proposed aware, for instance, of the we would be happy to common clearance form, which to lobby their ask our member associations Governments to implement.” and standardize prac- tive… to improve the efficiency in the region. As you tice in the yachting business are in the process of stan- recognized in your letter, we form for use in the dardizing the yacht reporting undertaking as some coun- region. This is not an easy needs at different tries would bring forth different emanating from the yacht- times, some of those needs ing fraternity, and others emanating from the government sector. As a consequence, it is probably timely and appropriate for our two organizations to join forces and ensure that concrete positions are agreed on that would satisfy all sides.” ized paper form would be adopted throughout the region. CCLEC has taken the concept a step further, and presented a common screen on line, thus achiev- ing standardization (and hastening the obsolescence of carbon paper!).. forms, some people have confused eAPIS (see story on preceding page) with eSeaClear, but they are very different. security risks and places a mandatory additional round of form-filling on every cross-border movement a eSeaClear

Falmouth Harbour Marina Falmouth Having started as a pilot program in St. Lucia in Having started as a pilot program in St. Lucia in The on-line form, found at www.eSeaClear.com, asks The eSeaClear-using skipper must still go to Customs The eSeaClear-using skipper What It Is system of electronic pre- ESeaClear is a voluntary Much has been written about eSeaClear since it was Much has been written about www.antigua-marina.com [email protected] Tel: +1 268 460 6054 Fax: +1 268 460 6055 www.antigua-marina.com [email protected] Tel: +1 268 July 2008, eSeaClear is being introduced gradually July 2008, eSeaClear is being introduced gradually throughout the Eastern Caribbean. St. Lucia, the British Virgin Islands, St. Kitts & Nevis, and St. Vincent & the Grenadines are now aboard. Among the countries using the system, there are still some ports of entry that don’t have computers. These ports’ names won’t appear on the drop-down menu until computers are installed. for routine data similar to that on the various paper for routine data similar to that on the various paper Customs forms. After the first data entry, subsequent uses are easy because all data is stored. Unless, for example, there is a crew change, the only changes in subsequent uses will be voyage data. Step 5, “Review”, shows what you’ve entered in case any edits are need- ed before you hit “Submit”. Changes can be made at any time. to clear in. There, you give the Customs officer your to clear in. There, you give I.D. number provided by pre-arrival notification (PAN) will also work, if you’ve the on-line system. Your name Customs officer will pull forgotten your number. The and print it out for you up your form on his computer to sign. Any fees will be paid as usual. arrival Customs notification for yachts traveling in for yachts traveling in arrival Customs notification based on a standardized the Eastern Caribbean, Basically, it gives yacht Customs clearance form. out Customs clearance skippers the option of filling of arrival (and in some forms on-line in advance of entry rather than doing places, on arrival), at a port so by hand upon arrival. have ranged from “It’s introduced last year. Comments great” to “What is it?” useless to me” to “It works on on Getting ClearGetting FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 brated thepurchaseof152acrestoexpandacoastal Administration andvariousotherorganizationscele- Rico, theUSNationalOceanicandAtmospheric Berman OilSpillthatdamagedthecoastlineofPuerto January, onthe15thanniversaryofmillion-gallon reported lastmonthin be availableforreviewbytheendofthismonth. environmental profile,adraftofwhichisexpectedto Petrovic’s observationswillformChapterSevenofan also done. assessment offishandothermarinelifepresentwas anchoring practiceandfromstormswasnoted.An Extensive damagetothecoralreefsfrombothbad Sandy Cay,Spit,GreenCayandDiamondCay. Immigration inGreatHarbour. boats anchoringthere.Lastyear,7,714cleared glass motorboats)andintheincreasenumbersof in thetypesofboatsused(fromislandsloopstofiber- They discussedchangesintheyachtingindustryboth the changesinGreatHarbouroverlast60years. business ownerandfishermanFoxyCallwoodabout significant effectonthenaturalenvironment. algal bloomsandlandreclamation,allofwhichhavea al andmarineresourcesofthatisland. Jost vanDyketoconductanassessmentofthecoast- Community CollegeonTortola,madeseveralvisitsto Applied MarineStudiesCentreattheH.LavityStoutt Islands-based marinescientistandformerheadofthe During November2008,ClivePetrovic,aBritishVirgin Caribbean Eco-News Puerto RicoCorrespondentMaríaMirandaSierra Puerto RicanCoastalReserveExpands For moreinformationvisitwww.jvdps.org. Along withinformationpreviouslycollected,Mr. Petrovic’s thirdvisitincludedthenearbyisletsof On hissecondvisit,Petrovicspoketolocalresident, During hisfirstvisit,heidentifiedcoastalerosion, The JostvanDykesPreservationSocietyreports: Marine ResourcesAssessedinJostvanDyke Caribbean NetNews that in

protected coastalshoreline,preventingthefragmenta- including theleatherbackturtle,whichnestshere. federally listedthreatenedandendangeredspecies, used forsugarcanefarming.Thereserveishometo16 rivers, andtheremnantsofa19thcentury coastal dryforests,mangroves,theconfluenceoftwo than amileofbeachfront,inter-tidalareas,wetlands, coastal habitatsincludingnear-shorecoralreefs,more of theCaribbean’slastgreatunprotectedareas. effort tocreatetheNortheastEcologicalCorridor,one the reserveto422acresandcontributesanongoing east ofSanJuan.Thepurchasethislandexpands has beenaddedtotheSanMiguelNaturalReserve, spill onthenortheasternpartofisland.Theland reserve nearoneoftheareashardesthitby in theexpandedPuertoRicancoastalreserve Sea turtlesandothercreaturesarenowbetterprotected “Preserving thissiteprovidesacontinuousstretchof The SanMiguelNaturalReserveisamosaicof hacienda

biodiversity ingeneral. benefit notonlytheseaturtles,butalsoBonaire’s critical, sensitiveenvironment,andthisprojectwill to stayoutsideofthemarkedareas.LacBayisa cial assistance,andon-siteencouragementtousers supporting partners,providingtechnicalandfinan- and TheWindsurfPlace,havejoinedtheprojectas Foundation Bonaire.Twolocalbusinesses,JibeCity Environment SolutionsandtheNationalParks Bay, Bonaire,theSeaTurtleConservationBonaire swimming, andfishing.” continue toproviderecreationalareasforboating, lands andwatersarenotprivatelydevelopedwill said. “Italsoensuresthatpubliclyaccessiblecoastal Puerto RicoProjectManagerMildredRamosMajoros tion ofcriticalhabitat,”theTrustforPublicLand’s STCB isbeingjoinedinthisprojectbyProgressive In amovetoprotectthevitalseagrassbedsinLac Bonaire GroupProtectsSeagrassBeds surfing competitionarea. around thepointtowind- area infrontofJibeCityand the heavy-trafficwindsurfer by buoysarenowlocatedin beds belowthesurface. bay usersoftheseagrass are visualmarkerstowarn line-and-buoy boundaries recreational usethere.The ardy inLacBayduetoheavy bottoms havebeeninjeop- Areas withdenseseagrass prevent sandfromeroding. roots inthenear-shorebeds and queenconch.Seagrass isms tofish,crabs,shrimp ranging frommicroorgan- oxygen forothermarinelife, also provideshelter,foodand tles. LacBay’sseagrassbeds Bonaire’s juvenilegreentur- important foodsourcefor lines. water systemofbuoysand protected areaswithanin- with othersinestablishing group (STCB)hasjoined Roped-off areas designated Roped-off areasdesignated Seagrass providesan FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 s experience ’ Carlos Aguilar, the dynamic local sailor killed last the dynamic local sailor Carlos Aguilar, familiarity with the In the early segments, local Genny Tulloch, silver The women’s field included top racers from St. The men’s field, including The St. Thomas Yacht Club is no newcomer to world- And next year, the club will host the 2009 US For results, see related item in this month’s Regatta to the team year and memorialized in the race, would have been in in the race, would year and memorialized aggressively the world-class field cut his element as committee marks, VIP boats, the and tightly around His father occasional landing seaplane. boat, and the Carlos was for El Salvador and sailed in the Olympics sailing circles for galvaniz- well known in St. Thomas ing local racers. the non-locals quickly shifty winds was key, but conditions. They’re not picked up the quirks of the racers for nothing! national and international-class Women’s Match Racing medalist in the US an Olympic-caliber crew Championships, teamed with Glass, and Liz Hall. This including Sally Barkow, Jen of aggressive matches team took the win in a series They won over hot com- among the women’s boats. 2002 Rolex Yachtswoman petitors including Liz Baylis, in the 2008 Women’s of the Year and silver medalist Anna Tunnicliffe, Match Racing World Championships; with an international 2008 Olympic gold medalist slew of other top sailors. match-caliber team; and a St. Croix, Puerto Rico Thomas, Tortola, St. Maarten, Canfield, a 19-year-old and El Salvador, fell to Taylor prodigy who has managed to combine an active Boston College curriculum with first and second places at the 420 North American Championships. He and his team came back from a penalty in the finals to win a tight match series here, catching a good break when another boat lost a crew member overboard (grabbing for a loose flag in the wind), and bringing it in first thanks to the team’s experience. class races. The organizer of the popular International Rolex Cup Regatta also hosted the first Grade I international match race held in the Caribbean, and played host to the 2006 TAG-Heuer Nation’s Cup Regional Final. Women’s Match Racing Championships. Look out for ferries! News department, page 15. s d r a z a H

s e d s n couple of senators journalists pro r i u W o

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And it worked. As the women were ferried off the But that relaxation heated up fast. The tension as heated up fast. The But that relaxation including the Governor ofA small crowd of onlookers, a o the Virgin Islands, a couple of senators, journalists, professional photographers, racing fans, and random pedes- trians, watched from the shade of a festive yellow-and- white tent set up on the waterfront as the boats screamed through the course, which principal race officer Peter Holmberg admitted was set equally to challenge the racers and to put on a good show for watchers. course, Governor de Jongh said to one of the teams, “This was very exciting! For a minute I thought you were going to sink each other.” there, the men raced later in the afternoon, and sev- raced later in the afternoon, there, the men it in until the teams didn’t even make eral of the men’s their papers Fellow racers collected end of the meeting. St. Thomas for them. Like all and race instructions one. races, it’s a friendly was palpable. the teams discussed race strategy l s o Above: The race- courses were just off a favorite dinghy docking spot in Charlotte Amalie Right: Jockeying for starting positions r C - C o l

d i l CARLOS AGUILAR MEMORIAL CHAMPIONSHIP AGUILAR MEMORIAL CARLOS y a l r l S o a

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by Barbara Gail Warden Against World-Class Winds World-Class Winds Against Hazards! Really Cool Course …and Match Racing in Paradise: Match Racing Sailors WWorld-Class Every morning saw the racers strolling in, relaxed I thi ditiOr maybe the parties drew them. Every night, locals littl diff t In this race, course conditions are a little different. So, the creators of the Rolex Cup Regatta have come of the Rolex Cup Regatta So, the creators (some of them still rubbing sleep out of their eyes), to (some of them still rubbing sleep out of their eyes), to the pre-race meeting — heading straight for the coffee- fruit-and-muffin fuel. On the Saturday, when I was and visitors were eyeing a crowd of racers unwinding and visitors were eyeing a crowd of racers unwinding at a private outdoor party right on the water, eating, drinking, dancing and trading sailing stories to a really excellent soundtrack of reggae, Eighties hits, and classics. Many people passing by or seeing the fun from nearby bars wandered in and joined the dancing, attracted by a tanned and healthy crowd just bursting with enthusiasm after a day on the water. They may include seaplanes landing, fast ferries They may include seaplanes landing, fast ferries screaming past the start line, cruise ships docking (well, that didn’t happen, but it conceivably could), and mega-yachts stopping to watch the race. Despite these conditions — or maybe because they add extra spice to course changes and make for really zany wind patterns — this race lured the top six women racers in the United States and eight of the top ten men racers in the Caribbean. up with another great race concept — and this one great race concept — up with another racing. From to international match gives a new twist St. Thomas through 7th 2008, the December 5th Carlos hosted the first International Yacht Club Harbor, Championship in St. Thomas Aguilar Memorial Amalie waterfront, right off the downtown Charlotte and it was a doozy. FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 seas andrain.Thefirstboatinwas ed inturbulentweatherwith25knotsofwind,six-foot event forthefirsttime. teams, racingSunfast37s,wereparticipatinginthe Yankees” wenthomewiththeGovernor’sTrophy.Both results ofthefirsttwodays,so“Canadian Verhagen’s teamcouldnotovercometheirbad first raceandoneminuteinthesecond.But John Burns’Canadianteamwiththreeminutesinthe Holland, tookthelasttwodays’prizes,holdingoff 60-year-old beachcatsailorsfroms’Gravenzande, toric FortOrange.JanVerhagen’steam,agroupof the PresidenteCup. through 15th. participants forthe2008event,heldNovember10th format attractedadozenboatstotalingalmost100 as thatpreciousmetal.Theregatta’sisland-to-island Regatta, finishinghereeveryNovember,isasalluring once knownasTheGoldenRock,andRock NEWS REGATTA started at9:00 ing morningtheexcitingupwind/downwindraces was abandonedowingtolackofwind,butthefollow- Golden Rock,todaybetterknownasStatia.Thatrace ed timehad23minutesinhand! by again tooklinehonorsbutwasbeatenonhandicap shortened to40thanksaforecastoflightwinds. ing; originallyplannedtobe53miles,thecoursewas corrected time. ing halfanhourlater—onlysixminutesbehindon Barths, withoneofthethreeenteredSunfast37sarriv- and finishedabouttwohourslaterinGustavia,St. racing yacht,crossedtheSt.Maartenstartlinefirst Rockin’ fortheGoldenRock! [email protected] www.barefootyachts The “reversefeederrace”backtoSt.Maartenstart- The GoldenRockRegattaprizegivingwasheldinhis- For moreinformationvisitwww.goldenrockregatta.com. On Mondaymorning,November10th, Bea Hootsmansreports:TheislandofSt.Eustatiuswas Statia Rocks!GoldenRockRegatta2008 The nextdaythefleetsailedtoSt.Eustatius, The racefromSt.BarthstoKittsstartednextmorn-

Since 1984 Kate BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL , theSt.Kitts-built12metre,whichoncorrect- AM .

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Taylor Canfieldatfarleft The winningMen’sOpenDivisionTeam,withskipper Grande. “Hewouldhavelovedtobehere.” Judge attheawardsceremonyYachtHaven Pat Bailey,aSt.Thomas-basedInternationalSailing loved matchracingandheagoodparty,”says last yearfollowingarobberyathishome.“Carlos avid sailorandmatchracer,whowasgunneddown of theYear,LizBaylis,forWomen’sDivisiontitle. crew beatCalifornianandformerRolexYachtswoman America’s Cup.TexasnativeGennyTullochandher ly liketocompeteintheultimatematchrace, Open MatchRacerankingsandwhowouldeventual- 19-year-old Canfield,currentlyranked152inISAF’s win isanincentiveformetokeepgoing,”says fair amountofmatchracingthispastyearand Taylor CanfieldwontheMen’sDivision.“I’vedonea Following racingthatwasrazorclose,St.Thomas’s division sailedtodeterminetheoverallwinners. cluding matchesinwhichthetopfourteamseach the CharlotteAmaliewaterfronttowatchcon- Tulloch helmingthewinningWomen’steam. the winningteamforMen,andCalifornia’sGenny with St.Thomas’s16-year-oldWilliamBaileyskippering second round-robinsawtheleaderboardchange, competition intheafternoon.Thecompletionof ing ofDayTwo,followedbyMen’sOpenDivision throughout theWomen’sDivisionracinginmorn- crewmembers. with eachteamconsistingofaskipperandthree Women. ThisGradeTwoeventwascontestedinIC24s while therewasathree-waytieforthirdamongthe Florida’s AnnaTunnicliffetoptheWomen’sDivision, Taylor CanfieldleadtheMen’sOpenDivisionand ing toblusterygustslater,andalsosawSt.Thomas’s Amalie sawallconditions,fromnearcalminthemorn- ed bytheSt.ThomasYachtClub. through 7th,2008,inSt.Thomas,USVirginIslands,host- Memorial MatchRacetookplacefromDecember5th

3) AnnaTunnicliffe,Florida,USA 2) LizBaylis,California,USA 1) GennyTulloch,Texas,USA Women’s Division 3) AlecAnderson,Tortola,BVI 2) WilliamBailey,St.Thomas,USVI 1) TaylorCanfield,St.Thomas,USVI Men’s Open WINNERS This eventhonorsthememoryofCarlosAguilar,an On DayThree,visitorsandlocalsalikelinedupalong Shifty windconditionssawseveralleadchanges The firstdayofracingintheharboroffCharlotte Carol Bareutherreports:TheinauguralCarlosAguilar Inaugural CarlosAguilarMatchRaceaSuccess BARNES and-one-half hourrace. reaching over35knotsseveraltimesduringthetwo- but nooneexpectedsquallsoneveryleg,withwinds accurate at17to20knotswithoccasionalsqualls— December 10ththrough13th.Theforecastwaspretty day ofracingattheSuperyachtCupAntigua,held shine andrainallinoneafternoonmarkedthefirst after zen boominthefirstrace. winning bothraces,despitehavingcrackedtheirmiz- race inAntiguadespitedampconditions. Vigo thoroughlyenjoyedtheirfirstSuperyachtCup representatives fromsponsorsAtollvicShipyard mainsheet andheadsailsrespectively.Alsoonboard, Andrew PorterfromHinckleyYachtServicestrimming joined thecrewof being 94yearsold. group ofkeensailorswiththemostseniormember team, including Cup CaptainPhilWadekeptaclosewatchonallthe despite theveryvariablewinds.VeteranSuperyacht experience showedbyclosetoperfectlay-lines world-class tacticianTomacofNorthSailsUS,their crew bossGregYeo.WithBarryJonesatthehelmand had theusualteamofexperts,pulledtogetherby to clawbacktwoplacesonherwayaround,and front of to stayaheadandfinishjustoverthreeminutesin wind shiftonourfinaltackbacktothefinishhelpedus sea ononelongtackwasthelogicalmove.Alucky wiches onthelastwindwardleg,soheadingoutto one withmultipletacks—wewereenjoyingoursand- seriously; “Itseemedagreatshametointerruptevery- Marshall showedclearsignsoftakingtheracingvery ingly taketheShipEquipRaceOne.CaptainAlistair ed firstandledthefleetroundcoursetoconvinc- race committee. brushed themark,earningapointspenaltyfrom Signe approached, shiftingthebreezeby20to30degrees. day forglory.Yetanotherpowerfulrainsquall mile ofthefinish,itstilllookedlikecouldbe boats behind.Asthefleetcloseduptogetherwithina and sailedhardaroundthecoursekeepingother least oneotherboatbetweenthemtotakethetitle retire. TheFaroux-designed efforts toeffectrepairsatseatheywereforced aloft, adaringcallinsuchbigseas.Despitetheirbest lost theirmainhalyardandhadtosendsomeone Tenacious leg resultinginbiggainsandeventuallythelead. between Abu Dhabirace,thecompetitionforfirstplacewas tory. Withwindsrangingfrom14to27knotsonthe Superyacht CupAntiguaever, be oneofthemostnail-bitingfinishestoThe which broughtthemtothirdoverallintheseries. Kalikobass today inbothracesthegustyconditions, third andsecond.Theonlyboattohoistaspinnaker successful day,movingsteadilyupthefleettoscorea —Continuedonnextpage minutes ofeachother. System, whichhadalloftheyachtsfinishingwithinfive credit mustbegiventoJimTeeters’BucketRating onds later. Antigua. claimed theoveralltitleforTheSuperyachtCup The BruceKing-designed35-metreketch Kate Branaghreports:Blueskies,blackclouds,sun- Timoneer Dubois-designed 44-metreketch On DayTwo, After averycloseDayThreeofracinginwhathadto These threeyachtsfinishedwithintwominutes,and Tenacious slightly under-stoodherlay-linetothefinishand Timoneer Kalikobass Timoneer , afterapromisingstartinthesecondrace, crewwereproudoftheirimprovedresults, TopsAntiguaSuperyachtCup Timoneer , choosingtogooffshoreonthefirst Timoneer’s .” SeveralSuperyachtCupsponsors Timoneer and Signe sailedacrossthelinejust45sec- Signe. Signe stole theleadfrom , withMarkPrestonand Timoneer , whichfinishedsecond, ownersandguests,a Kalikobass II Timoneer Timoneer started22minutes hadtoputat .com hadamore claimed vic- Signe managed Signe Signe’s start- after

FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17

Luxury tactician and ipating , crossed the finish line and the First 10R playing shifts up the Luxury Girl’s Jurakan Or call 444 2400 Or Willy T. Pipe Dream, Luxury Girl and , heading for a win made a late charge and closed up to at Le Phare Bleu Marina Le Phare at Boats during the weekend during Boats thing for all partic for thing Jurakan skippered by Guy Eldridge. skippered by Guy Eldridge. Ron and Diane Lewis entertained the moored bare- On the run between Dead Chest and Peter Island, The ARC programme has received widespread has received widespread The ARC programme 2009 and already over The entry list is open for ARC For more information visit www.worldcruising.com. Challenge Eight Take the Latitude 18 Halyard Latitude 18 Halyard Emma Paull reports: At the too eager and all eight In the first race, the fleet was Luxury Girl Pipe Dream boaters by setting a start line in the bay, with competi- tors manoeuvering around the anchored Moorings cats. —Continued on next page shoreline to pull ahead. Both chose a conservative central line to cross the current of the Sir Francis Drake Channel and round Cooper Island. This was the first time many of the racers had seen the backside of Cooper, but as Bob Phillips, Chairman of the BVI Spring Regatta Committee put it, “You’d better get used to seeing the outside of the islands, we have several courses planned for out there this spring.” with of living their dream of Caribbean cruising lie ahead. of Caribbean cruising of living their dream closer ties year after year through praise, improving support sponsors, and service with local businesses, Bishop, this backdrop, Andrew specialists. Against has of World Cruising Club managing director to signing of a five-year contract announced the the new IGY stage of the ARC at keep the Caribbean Lucia include Major sponsors in St. Rodney Bay Marina. and Tourism, Digicel, Heineken, the Ministry of Colombian Emeralds. 40 yachts have registered. 3rd, organized by the Challenge, held on January by Latitude 18, Royal BVI Yacht Club and sponsored Dave West’s Melges 32, ahead to take line of both of two races comfortably were applied it honours. However, once handicaps between the Haycraft came down to a close duel family’s Sirena 38, Girl, Race Committee boats were called back by race started cleanly at the Chairman Ron Gurney. The beat out of the harbour second attempt and the fleet third on corrected time, followed in by Kevin Rowlette’s Olson 30 FOR MORE INFORMATION CHECK INFORMATION MORE FOR www.SouthGrenadaRegatta.com Free Ber -

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Vaiva and 27. Feb - 1. March Whatever the weather, par- Whatever the

Nutmeg of Shoreham The final part of the ARC expe- described his arrival at Rodney described his arrival at Rodney at Bay, St. Lucia after 23 days by sea. It is a sentiment echoed many of the crews as they reach the ARC finish line. Many report feeling elated with the achievement but also tinged with sadness at finishing an extraordinary adventure. They now join the ever-growing band of sailors who can proudly pro- claim, “I’ve done the ARC!” the rience for its participants is official prizegiving. This took place on December 20th, and marked the close of ARC 2008. Crews, families, friends and invited guests gathered at the Gaiety Theatre for entertainment generously hosted by the St. Lucia Tourist Board. As well as wonderful feeling” is how Ollie wonderful feeling” is how Ollie Holden, skipper of the Nicholson 38 All the ARC children — 32 of them 2009 REGATTa . Madonna. SOUTH GRENADA SOUTH GRENADA Magic Pelagic, Windancer, Ohana In addition to prizes for line honours and Norwegian Edvard Brook-Bratbak’s young family, “One of the happiest moments of my life! What a “One of the happiest moments While some crews fly home immediately, most skip- ARC 2008 Delivered on All Fronts ARC 2008 Delivered reports: Peta Stuart-Hunt recognizing the achievements of the sailors, the evening was also an opportunity for the ARC organizers, World Cruising Club, to offi- cially thank everyone who participated in the ARC this year, a sentiment seconded by IGY Rodney Bay Marina General Manager, Cuthbert Didier, who also thanked the crews on behalf of the people of St. Lucia, for whom the ARC is so important. podium places in each Division and Class, there were awards for special achievements, such as the volunteer radio net controllers; the ARC finish line boats; and the four yachts — which gave assistance to other yachts during the crossing. including eight-month-old Marina, were called up for four awards, including the Jimmy Cornell Trophy for overall winner of Division One, as well as youngest participant, and winner of Class H, with their Beneteau First 31.7, Free to Be ticipating in the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) is all Atlantic Rally for Cruisers ticipating in the is a “Fair but at times frustrating” about the experience. and waves of the ARC 2008. The winds good summary with running of the event, though were fair this last for heavy dis- holes at times, especially some frustrating side is that boats. However, the plus placement cruising typical during fewer breakages than is less wind meant miles of open ocean sailing.2,700 nautical this year — were welcomed on stage to some of the loudest cheers of the evening, and presented with a gift and certificate to mark their achievement. The evening culminated with the presentation of the most significant award, The Spirit of the ARC, which recog- nizes the individual or crew who most represents the ethos of the ARC. ARC 2008’s winner was the crew of pers and their yachts spend the winter cruising the Caribbean, exploring the islands and anchorages for which the region is famous, and enjoying life afloat. Their ARC experience may be over, but many months was the Grenadas spectacular spectacular Grenadas Margrathea. Uhuru along The St. Lucia Yacht Club hosted The St. Lucia Yacht

and Uhuru - Prize Giving Party Party - Prize Giving live-music with great - Junior Sailing Races Sailing - Junior Trail - Pirates time trial - 15hp Dinghy - Two Races (HAUL PRIZES WITH GREAT Coast South EGINE, HOLIDAY...) OUTBOARD OUT, Continued from previous page Continued from Many thanks must go to the organizer of the Fun For more information visit www.stluciayachtclub.com. The afternoon session saw more ARC sailors, includ- The prizegiving for 160 people was held at the at the for 160 people was held The prizegiving visit www.thesuperyachtcup.com. For more information Club’s ARC Fun Day St. Lucia Yacht Lily Bergasse reports: ARC participants joined St. Lucia Yacht Club members ARC participants joined St. Lucia Yacht Club members for water games and lots of laughs on Fun Day overall winner of the afternoon games, which aimed to be short, entertaining and full of laughs. Day, SLYC Membership Secretary Danielle De Rouck and her volunteers, as well as the two instructors of the junior sailing Programme, Rob Hemming and Chris Lowe. The day would not have been a success without the generous sponsorship of Digicel, Island Water World, Renwick & Co., Royal Bank of Canada (who sponsored 12 new safety jackets for the Junior Sailing Programme), Johnson’s Marine Hardware, J. E. Bergasse & Co, Sunset Heights, Delirius, Chris Doyle Guides, and the St. Lucia Tourist Board. in the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) 2008 and the families were invited to join the St. Lucia Yacht Club dinghy sailors in both morning and afternoon sessions of water and beach games, including paddling an Optimist dinghy filled with six team members of all sizes, and a (really) short Laser course for able sea- men/women/children. The morning session was enjoyed by four teams of junior sailors as well as the one and only early rising ARC crew, the “Wesley Team” of four young boys and one girl. The Wesley Team were awarded the Fun Day ARC Crew prize, compliments of Island Water World, while the team to accumulate the most points in the morning was the “Billions and Billions of Blue Bilious Blistering Barnacles”, winning a hamper, compliments of Renwick & Co. ing crews from Copper and Lumber Hotel in Nelson’s Dockyard, Hotel in Nelson’s Dockyard, Copper and Lumber at least collected a trophy for where each boat one race. — in front of Fun Day at Reduit Beach its second annual 14th, 2008. Participants the clubhouse on December FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 Awards Ceremonyandpartywillconcludetheevent registration, followedbythreedaysofracing. start onFebruary19thwithaskippers’briefingand annual GrenadaClassicYachtRegatta,whichwill and otherclassicswillbecompetinginthesecond yachts, schooners,woodenboats,“spiritoftradition” with itsowndistinctivestyleandstorytotell.Vintage together yachtssteepedintraditionandhistory,each to becomepartofaveryspecialoccasion,bringing took uk, and AndrewThompson’sMelges24, well downthefleet.Thelightweightsportboats the lineearlyandhadtorunoffpinend,starting an excellentmidlinestartwhile third overall. second racewinwasenoughtoliftColinRathbun enough towintheraceoncorrectedtime. est boatsinthefleet,whopersistedstayingclose at thehelmof — Racing gracefully…ClassicswillspreadtheirwingsinGrenadathismonth Fred Thomasreports:Here’sanopportunityforsailors Grenada ClassicYachtRegattaThisMonth For moreinformationvisitwww.rbviyc.com. 3) Pipe Dream 2) 1) WINNERS Continued frompreviouspage struggledinthedyingbreeze,while Team Lime Pipe Dream Luxury Girl Willy T . The best gain was made by Colin Rathbun . ThebestgainwasmadebyColinRathbun judged it perfectly and hammered off to judgeditperfectlyandhammeredoffto , First10R Team Lime , IC24,ColinRathbun , Sirena38,PeterHaycraft , GuyEldridge , oneofthreeIC24s,thesmall- Luxury Girl Crewclothing.co. LuxuryGirl approached approached Team Lime’s Jurakan

An over-

as record onthewell-knownvintagetri,originallyknown RORC race,includesMarkStevensandIanBradshaw Mark StevensandJohnBurnie,afounderofthenew two-handed classes. February 23rdandisopentomultihull,monohull ran, 600 Race,sailingonClaudeTheiler’sOrma60trima- intention toparticipateinthenewRORCCaribbean www.grenadaclassicregatta.com. yacht photographerCorySilkenwillbeonhand. ing, yetnottooarduousracing.Internationalclassic designed togiveskippersandcrewssomeexhilarat- southeastern coastofGrenada.Theyhavebeen regattas areplannedforthefuture. and Antigua,feederracesbetweentheclassic between theClassicYachtRegattasofSt.Maarten Classic ispositionedwellinthesailingcalendar involved withthisprestigiousevent.TheGrenada Thomas ofShipwrightsLimitedinGrenada,areall Maarten ClassicRegatta,alongwithmyself,Fred Antigua ClassicRegattaandJanRoosensoftheSt. on theSundayevening.KennyCoombsof The “super”team,whichhasbeenputtogetherby The RORCCaribbean600startsinAntiguaon A teamofsuperyachtcaptainshasannouncedtheir Superyacht CaptainsAimtoClaimRORCCaribbean600 For moreinformationvisit The coursesfor2009areofftheruggedandscenic Primagaz Region Guadeloupe , thatwontheRouteduRhum. . Theiraimistosetacourse Regatta willbeonsalesoon,andthe20072008 these itemsduringtheSt.MaartenHeinekenRegatta. items andindividualvolunteersfortheireffortsinselling the St.MaartenYachtClubformerchandisingthese also liketoespeciallythanktheShipwreckShopand ing andmooringmaintenance.” spend theirmoneyon,Ms.Nisbethreplied,“Stafftrain- year.” WhenaskedwhatNatureFoundationwould reason whymanyofourvisitorscomehereevery clean beaches,healthyseasandgreenhillsarethe ment isoneofSt.Maarten’smostimportantresources: difference totheworkwedo.Thenaturalenviron- raising efforts.Adonationlikethismakesasignificant Foundation isfundedpurelythroughgrantsandfund- Beverly MaeNisbethoftheNatureFoundation.“The donate atotalofUS$6,000.” Through thesalesofthesebraceletswewereableto lowed upwithSerious,CleanFunbraceletsin2007. There braceletswhichwedonatedin2006andfol- John Leone.“WestartedwiththegreenMeetYou clean,” saysHeinekenSt.MaartenManagingDirector the importanceofkeepingourislandanditswaters regatta, wewanttoraisetheexposureconcerning grammes onbothsidesoftheisland.“During Naturelle toputtowardstheirconservationpro- Foundation St.MaartenandtheMartinRéserve Heineken Regatta2008weregiventotheNature sale ofblackbraceletsduringtheSt.Maarten ly launched145-footWally, Leopard, Sojana,Windrose,Velsheda participation announcementshavebeenmadeby has alreadyenteredhisMumm36 interest. RegularAntiguanwinnerBernieEvanWong to befirsthomeandsetthemultihullrecord.” course quicklyandsafely.Theaimclearlyishowever Claude, Ed,StéphaneandBentoseeusaroundthe Bucket sailing!Wewillbelookingtotheexperienceof the-water, white-knuckleride,slightlydifferentfrom our agingsenseofadventure—itwillbeaclose-to- over 600milesisverydifferentandreallyappealsto sels… HoweverracingapedigreeOrma60trimaran raced togetheratdifferentregattasonvariousves- known eachotherforanumberofyearsandhave ber RichardWatson. Stéphane SquarcioniandAntiguaYachtClubmem- completed withGuadeloupe-basednavigator will sailasteamcaptainandthecrewline-upis cat, the keyrolesheplayedonGrantDalton’ssuper-maxi par excellence.EdDanbyisprobablybestknownfor and BenWood,boatbuildersmultihullspecialists of the110-footWally the 75-metreHolland of the54-metreHuisman —Continuedonnextpage visit www.heinekenregatta.com. Regatta 2009,March5ththrough8th, [email protected]. on RéserveNaturellevisit [email protected]. Formoreinformation Foundation officesandHeinekenSt.Maarten. bracelets arestillavailablefromtheNature The newbraceletsforthe2009StMaartenHeineken The FoundationsandHeinekenSt.Maartenwould “We areextremelygratefulforthiscontribution,”says Heather Tacklingreports:Fundsraisedthroughthe Heineken RegattaFundsforNatureOrganizations For moreinformationvisithttp://caribbean600.rorc.org. The RORC600CaribbeanRacehasattractedwide Mark Stevenssays,“Ben,John,SteveandIhave The legendaryFrenchmultihullsailorClaudeTheiler The teamwillbenefitfromcrewmembersEdDanby For moreinformationontheSt.MaartenHeineken For moreinformationontheNatureFoundationvisit Club Med . Narida Mirabella V Hyperion Saudade . ; andSteveBranagh ; BenCameronof High Tension . and therecent- and FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 The entry fee is US$200 for all classes except Beach The CHIR marks the second leg of the Caribbean For more information More top-notch sailboat racing is in store at Culebra’s upcoming International Regatta Spinnaker Racing, CSA Spinnaker Racer-Cruiser, CSA J/24, IC24, CSA Performance Cruiser, CSA Jib & Main, IC24s, Beach Cat and native-built Chalanas. “We would be happy to dual score IRC-rated yachts that request it, but they must also have a CSA rating,” Ayala says. Cats and Chalanas; the Beach Cat fee is US$100 and the Chalanas fee is US$150. Entries received after February 20 will be charged $250 for all the classes except Beach Cats and Chalanas. Entry fee for Optimist and Laser Classes is US$50. An Awards Ceremony will cap the two days of racing. Ocean Racing Triangle, or CORT Series, which begins with the St. Croix International Regatta, February 20th to 22nd, and concludes with the BVI Spring Regatta April 3rd to 5th. visit www.culebrainternationalregatta.com. After the machines’ technical After the machines’ technical Day Two will see circuit rac- The two legs on Day Three The final day of racing featu- For more information contact Culebra Heineken Carol Bareuther reports: The Top-notch racing, laid-back The first day’s racing will see windward-leeward Classes of entry to the CHIR will include CSA Jet-Ski World Championship, Jet-Ski World Championship, off the Viard will take place beach of Petit-Bourg, from March 18th Guadeloupe, expect to 22nd. Organizers compet- more than a hundred nationali- itors of 20 different and world ties, both amateurs participants, championship 50,000 visitors. and more than all Radio and TV networks from over the world will cover the event, which includes nine legs and 550 kilometres of racing. The event will be preced- ed by the Freestyle World Championship at Fort de France, Martinique, on March 14th. check and the opening ceremony on the 18th, the first day of racing will feature three legs: Viard to Marie-Galante; circuit racing at Marie- Galante; and Marie-Galante to Les Saintes to Viard. ing from Gosier to Rivière-Sens plus to Pointe-Noire and return, a Freestyle show at Pointe-à-Pitre Harbour. will be Viard to Saint-François and Saint-François to Viard, followed by a party in the evening. res a circuit and the final leg, both off Viard beach, followed by the closing cocktail party. [email protected] International Regatta in March 5th Annual Culebra Heineken International Regatta and Culebra International Dinghy Regatta are set for March 20th through 22nd. Caribbean-style parties and boatloads of island hospi- tality are what you’ll find at this regatta, and Puerto Rico’s offshore island of Culebra has quickly become a hot spot for racing in the northern Caribbean. Costa Bonita Villas is once again the regatta’s host resort, hosting registration, Customs and Immigration officials, and rooms will be available for those who want to stay ashore. Most of the expected 70-plus fleet’s mother ships will anchor in Ensenada Honda, Daiquiri Bay or Fulladosa Bay, all beautifully sheltered spots. In addition to mixed fleet racing and cruising classes, they expect to have one-design classes for Melges 24s, J/24s, IC24s, and J/80s. There will also be a large beach cat fleet and the native Chalanas. courses for the racing classes south of Punto Soldado and round-the-cays courses for cruisers. The second day’s race will be an island circumnavigation for all but the IC24 and J/24 classes. The CIDR offers Optimist, Laser and Laser Radial racing for kids in Ensenada Honda while the big boats sail offshore. Continued from previous page Continued from Grenada’s Round-the-Island Race Shaping Up Race Shaping Grenada’s Round-the-Island South reports: The Grenada Jovanna Giannasio-Fern a time-honored tradi- This year’s event will continue and welcome partyAfter registration, captains’ briefing creative participants The Bath Tub Derby, in which For more information see ad on page 14. Jet-Ski Championship Set for Guadeloupe Agence BeCom Caraïbes reports: Karujet, the Rally to be Best Yet Grenada announces the exciting Coast Yacht Club 13th through Race to be held March Round-the-Island Anse Garfield’s Beach Bar on Grand 15th, based at boats during for all participating Beach. Free dockage Camper is provided by the new the race weekend Port Louis Marina. and Nicholsons as well as family fun and tion of sailing competition, residents, visiting sailors entertainment to Grenada weekend include the and tourists. Highlights of the food festival as well as first-ever A Taste of Grenada Derby. The weekend youth sailing and a Bath Tub schedule is as follows: sailing events in theon the Friday, one of the oldest year: the Grenada Round- Caribbean is back for another Also on the Saturday,the-Island Race on the Saturday. an event for youth to learnBudget Marine will be hosting and families are invited tomore about the joys of sailing, games such as tuggather at Grand Anse for kid-friendly an egg toss. of war, potato sack races and sailboat and compete for float their own version of a on the Sunday, along with a grand prize, takes place will feature a wide cross- A Taste of Grenada, which their delicious food. section of local vendors selling The awards ceremony and party, including food, drinks and music, will follow. — There’s a time and a place for everything, and the time and place for jet-skis is next month in Guadeloupe FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 woman maylaborafullweektomakeanembroidered island withhim.(Toputthatinperspective,aKuna US$40 tosimplywalkaroundtheperimeterof very upsetwithhim. mistake. Ilearnedlaterthatthe take LadyPwithusanyway.Thatturnedouttobea that wewouldneedithere,butDavidallowedusto us. Wehadlefttheleashonboat,neverdreaming island, butifIhadaleashwecouldtakeLadyPwith right fromtheget-gothatdogswerenotallowedon and wasassignedtobeourguide.Daviddidtellme young KunanamedDavidwhosaidhespokeEnglish island. Weweremetonthevillagedockbyahandsome the anchorageheadedashoretohikearound we justplannedtostayforthreenights. staying forupto30days.Notabaddeal,eventhough lect aUS$8anchoringfeethatgaveustheprivilegeof town taxcollectorandcametowelcomeuscol- his middle ofAfricaortheSouthPacific. more removedfrom“civilization”ifwewereinthe only tothefamedPygmies.Wecouldnothavefelt foreign feel.TheKunaareveryshortinstature,second ful traditionalKunaoutfits,givingthevillageafaraway we werethem.Thewomendressedintheircolor- reserved, andtheyseemedtobeashappyseeus ful inmanyways.Theyweregenuinelyfriendly,yet the beachandwefoundinhabitantstobedelight- flew overhead. palms andraucousgreenparrotssquawkingasthey off thetansandbeachlinedwithswooningcoconut was asweetmomentwhenwedroppedthehookjust had thewesternCaribbeanstirredintoatempest.It 14-foot seasandalmostnowind.Stormstothenorth Rosario thedaybeforewithcrazyconditions:12-to Lady P,hadasmileonherslimlittlefacetoo. catamaran, Lady Pitkeathlysprangontothesugarscoopofour happy!” Desirésmiledupatmefromthedinghyas Caribbean adventurethreeyearsago.“Iamsooooo longing tovisitsincewefirstbeganplanningour San BlasIslands.Thesearetheislandswehadbeen perfect CaribbeanbeachonIslaPiñosinPanama’s David wasaniceguy,althoughhechargedourgroup The nextday,allofthecruisersinfourboats The firsteveningaKunamancamepaddlingupin The KunaIndianvillageofTupakishalfamileup We’d hadaroughsailoverfromtheColombianIsla We hadjustreturnedfromawalkonthepicture- A warm welcome awaits you and your yacht at Port Louis welcomeawaitsyouandyouryachtatPort A warm world’s mostbeautifulandunspoiltcruising areas. Sitting alongside the marina, the forthcoming Port Louis Maritime Village will include luxury LouisMaritimeVillage Port willincludeluxury Sitting alongsidethemarina,forthcoming Now there’s slipsforyachts anothergoodreasontovisit. There are50newfullyserviced Louis, Grenada.Visitors welcomethanPort canexpect Nowhere extendsawarmer ITALY |MALTA |TURKEY hotels, villas,restaurantsandbars,plussomeof theﬁnestboutiquesandshopsinregion. regattas andfestivals.GrenadaisalsothegatewaytoGrenadines,oneof powder-white beaches,rainforests,spiceplantationsandacalendarpackedwith ulu of allsizesupto90mavailablerightnowforsaleorrental. Port Louis,Grenada Port , adugoutcanoe,justaftersunset.Hewasthe Famous Potatoes . Idobelieveourdog, WEST INDIES sahila , orchief,was Brigilio Suareztookme(andLadyP)bydugoutcanoetoseehisgardensonthemainland by Jack Foard one reallycaredabouthisexorbitantfee. was sobeautifulandthewalkinvigoratingthatno can buyadugoutcanoeforabout$100.)Buttheisland reverse-appliqué The nextdayintownIwasluckytomeetanother THESANBLAS FFIRST DAYSIN

R DESTINATIONS T mola shesellsfor$15or$20,andyou H S To fullyappreciatethisrare opportunity, wehighlyrecommendavisit.To arrangean Slips are available for sale or rental. For a private consultation to discuss Slips areavailableforsaleorrental.Foraprivateconsultationtodiscuss Anna Tabone, [email protected] the advantages of slip ownership, please contact our International SalesManager,the advantagesofslipownership,pleasecontactourInternational Limited availability on +1(473)[email protected] on-site meetingpleasecontactourSalesandMarketingCo-ordinator, DannyDonelan T E

D S A A —Continuedonnextpage converse quiteadequately. spoken clearlyanddeliberately,sowewereableto Brigilio’s EnglishwaspassableandhisSpanish English-speaking KunanamedBrigilioSuarez. Y N S

I L N A

S FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 nodded his sahila is the leader, but he is is the leader, —Continued on next page sahila to assign me a place. I had hoped to stay with a to assign me a place. I had Brigilio invited me to go fishing with him, so we Brigilio invited me to go coast of the island We hiked out along the north Brigilio searched for crab burrows in the sand I asked Brigilio if he would take me to the mainland the Later in the day when Desiré and I were walking I wanted to see what life was like in a Kuna village and what life was like in a Kuna I wanted to see assent and told Brigilio to take me to the number twoassent and told Brigilio to sahila what was the equivalent offamily but instead was given new hut with a concretethe presidential suite, a large with a constant breeze thatfloor right on the waterfront closest neighbors were akept it cool and bug free. My the water’s edge. few pigs in cages built over to grab his simple fishing made a quick stop at his hut a baggie containing four gear: a tiny spool of line, and a sinker. I thought of hooks (two too dull to use), five trays and 20 compart- my massive tackle box with for the simpler way of life. ments and felt a bit of envy new spool of 14-pound test The next day I gave him a 100-pound test line, sev- line, a handline with some and a few sinkers. eral sizes of sharp new hooks place: part sandy beach, until we got to just the right rocky shore mixed in. with some boulders and hard We were followed closely by a small band of children who vied for the privilege of holding my hand. Occasionally I had two or three laughing children grasping fingers on each hand. and dug them out by hand, carefully dropping them in a bucket until he had enough for bait. Fishing was not so good this day but I enjoyed watching the fishing, playing with the kids and doing a little beachcombing. next day to see the garden plots the village men had in the hillsides over the swamps. He was pleased to do so. through the village we were surrounded by a cloud of children who followed us everywhere. I had promised one of the Kuna women a pair of reading glasses for her mother and dropped by their compound to deliver them. island. The Kunas who owned dogs had to get rid of who owned dogs had island. The Kunas it was my a bit harsh to me, but them. This seemed at the how the Kuna culture operates first insight into The basic village unit. takes the the wise father-figure who even more like is the first people very seriously. This protection of his was our travels that Lady Pitkeathly place in all of fine. from visiting, but that was truly banned village if I spend one night in the asked if I could The brought my own hammock. (village congreso passed an edict at the next , the Idaho Potato Commission sent us hundreds I gave him five yards of bright blue vinyl cloth we had yards of bright blue vinyl cloth I gave him five Brigilio to explain to me why dogs were not allowed in Brigilio to explain to me why dogs were not allowed in the village. In the past, many Kunas in his village had dogs but one day a dog viciously bit a child. The sahila meeting) that dogs were no longer allowed on the meeting) that dogs were no longer allowed on the of vitamin pills that might make him feel stronger. that might make him feel of vitamin pills supplies cushions, a bag of school bought for exterior old man Post-It pads. He was a serious and pens and He asked but he seemed pleased. and never smiled Famous Potatoes who was sahila, Continued from previous page Continued from Brigilio took me to meet the head Brigilio took The chief was my first patient. After listening to his The chief was my first patient. After listening to his heart and lungs and poking around a little it was obvi- ous he had a cold. He was a strong old man and he I seemed to be doing quite well without medication so advised him of that fact but gave him a week’s worth — not feeling well. I had a bag of gifts for the village and I had a bag of gifts for the not feeling well. volunteered along my stethoscope and I also brought might have. medical needs the village to help with any When they discovered that our boat’s name was of souvenir pins. The children on Isla Piños each got one FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 she haddyedblackfromheadtotoewithalocalplant running outofherhutcarryingafatlittlebabywhom pin beforeweleft. every kidinthevillagewaswearinganewIdahoPotato Brotherhood oftheFamousIdahoPotato.Ibelieve nounced themmembersingoodstandingthe the kidswerethrilledwhenI“pinned”themandpro- boat nameandjourney.Ihadapocketfulwithme with 500Idahopotatopinswhentheylearnedofour with adriedgourdshakerassheprayedtohergod. er whochantednonstopassheshookoutarhythm mock intheshadebehindus,oldgreat-grandmoth- the mother,grandmotherand,swinginginaham- — A Kunachildandhertraditionallydressedmothervisitusintheir As westrolledbacktowardthedockawomancame The IdahoPotatoCommissionhadsentmeabox There werefourgenerationslivingthere:thechildren, Continued frompreviouspage before darkandhetoldmetogoinsideforthenight.I the hammock.Brigilioescortedmetomyhutjust the peopleofvillage,orme,todootherthanhit safety andwell-beingofthecommunity. spent muchofthemeetingprayingtoJesusfor and thesewerethenightsthatnumberone three meetingsamonthwereabsolutelymandatory could leave,hisbrothersandsisterswerepinned. see noinfirmityinthelittleblackcherub.Beforewe hoped weresoothingandreassuringwordsasIcould took hispictureandreturnedhimtoMomwithwhatI looked himoverforafewminutes,pokedhisbelly, do, soIpickedhimupandputonmyknee know ifthebabywassickorwhatshewantedmeto feet and,withoutaword,shesteppedaway.Ididn’t extract. Sheranuptomeandplacedthebabyatmy With no ulu congreso thateveningtherewasnothingfor Brigilio correctly,only night. ButifIunderstood ings areheldnearlyevery mandatory the chiefs. and thelawlaiddownby the villagearediscussed lems (includingmarital)in is whereanyandallprob- around theperimeter.This the mensittingonbenches mats onthedirtfloor,with sitting onlittlestoolsor dren surroundingthem, with thewomenandchil- in thecenterofhut recline intheirhammocks the threevillage to disturbher.Typically, and the lived nextdoorwasdying ed astheoldwomanwho ings weretemporarilyhalt- greso hut inthevillage, lage meetingatthebiggest to attendtheeveningvil- me atthedock.Ihadhoped the nightandBrigiliomet returned tothevillagefor In manyvillages,the That eveningatsunsetI hut,butthemeet- sahila congreso did not want didnotwant sahilas meet- sahila con-

the pictures. sure totakeacopyofthe the hutwithaFloridalicenseplateondoor.Be highly ifyouevervisitthelovelyIslaPiños.Lookfor a guideforvisitingcruisers.Irecommendhim learn toliveinparadiselikearealKuna. breeze. Then,afterIlearnedtosleep,maybecould make sureIhadablankettowardoffthecoolnight a fewweeksI’dlearntosleepinhammock,and Kuna Indiananditwasnoteasy.Isuspectthatifgiven I thinkcanget.hadspent24hourslivinglikea ing atushighaboveinthetreetops. bands ofloudhowlermonkeysthatfollowedus,howl- pineapples, bananas,andyucca.Weranintoseveral well intothejungle,toseevillagegardenplotsof and hikedseveralmilesthroughswampshills, paddled hisdugoutcanoethreemilestothemainland mutter andgroanasthoughhewasmiserableI. in foralongnight.Ioccasionallyheardoneofthepigs I evenputmyfeetinaplasticbagbutwasstuckand and shouldershugthepillowtotrykeepwarm. was takethepillowcaseoffandpullitovermyhead my hammockallnight,Iwascoldandcoulddo hammock before.Withtheseabreezeblowingacross the villagewasquietandnotacreaturestirring. smiled andbidagoodnighttoall.Within60seconds uproar andrememberedBrigilio’slastwords,soI Finally Irealizedhadcausedabitofanafter-hours see thatoneofthemhadmadeittothebigtime. stream ofadultscomingtosee.Theywereexcited the peopleinpicturesandsuddenlyIhadasteady the photographsthatgotthemexcited.Theyallknew about theirislandtoshowthemthechart,butitwas loud, drawingwhoopsoflaughterfromthekids. Kuna wordslistedintheback.Ipracticedthemout Bauhaus ing myhandorjustsittingbyside.Ihadthe there wereadozenkidsvyingfortheprivilegeofhold- were suddenlysittingatmyfeetandwithinminutes very darknights.Within60secondsthreechildren uses lightsatnightexceptforaflashlightortwoon was alreadyquiet.Thereisnoelectricityandone sat onthesteptowatchdarknessfall.Thevillage just couldnotobeycompletelyandsneakedout postponed to 2009 Brigilio SuarezspeaksenoughEnglishtoserveas After rowinghomelaterintheday,Iwasastired In themorning,afterasleeplessnight,BrigilioandI I sleptmiserably.hadnevereventriedtosleepina They wantedtoseemybooksoIopenedthepages Panama CruisingGuide Compass with metostudythe with youtoshow FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 does not allow the women to come to the boats to sell the women to come to does not allow -selling women became more and more aggressive. Trying became more and more -selling women mola sahila we don’t want, we are teaching them that aggressive behavior we don’t want, we are teaching them that aggressive

things

Molas . He wants all the women to have an equal chance, so when cruisers come chance, so when cruisers the women to have an equal . He wants all Buying the On Isla Piños If you would like to read more stories about their experiences circumnavigating the If you would like to read more stories about their experiences molas together. As display their lovely creations women of the village get to ashore all the the we sailed north, we could, yet fleets of women to avoid them, we anchored as far from the villages as bang on the side of our boat would paddle their dugout canoes for several miles to us to tow them back to their or just climb aboard uninvited. Then, they would ask a friendly but firm “no” is village in our dinghy. As is true throughout the islands, permission and pester us understood. If we allow people to board our boats without into buying ago. pays, just like the boatboys of St. Vincent learned years website. Visit web.mac. Caribbean Basin, Jack and his wife, Desiré, have an excellent com/famouspotatoes2 and go to the “Captain’s Blog.” The author, upper left, reminds us that our actions — including purchasing habits — The author, upper left, reminds us that our actions — including we visit can have negative as well as positive impacts on the people Grenada by Jack Foard (chief’s) edict they have a good chance of “getting the goodies” (chief’s) edict they have a good chance of “getting the sahila’s

five yards of blue waterproof cushion material for the village and a box of five yards of blue waterproof cushion material for the

Giving Gifts gifts for some of the We know some cruisers who brought a big box of Western Our days among the Kuna people and their wonderful San Blas Islands were people and their wonderful San Blas Islands were Our days among the Kuna Buying Seafood to give to the young men. It was suggested in the past that we bring snorkel gear children. The children who got a “Chatty Cathy” doll were thrilled beyond belief, but children. The children who got a “Chatty Cathy” doll were envy. At Isla Piños, where the many kids got nothing but a giant dose of Western are learning that if they people are not supposed to come out to the boats, some ignore the some of the very best of all our days circumnavigating the Caribbean, However, we we our days circumnavigating the Caribbean, However, some of the very best of all large numbers now that we are having a noticeable cruisers are visiting in such our way of life. Here are a few ideas to minimize negative impact on the Kuna impact on their culture. a curse? If you would like to before their neighbors. Are these “gifts” a blessing or not individuals. We gave the give something to the Kuna, bring gifts for the village, sahila is that so many men are It seemed an act of kindness, but an unfortunate result wiped out some species. It diving and selling seafood now that they have just about are taking mostly juveniles is very difficult to find a legal-sized lobster, so the boys Kuna will soon have no breed- to sell to cruisers. If we don’t stop buying “shorts” the the baby lobsters, no problem ing lobsters left. We have taught them that if they kill future of these dear people, — cruisers will buy them anyway. If you care about the lobster, conch or crabs. please do not buy immature, egg-bearing or out-of-season school supplies, which are always appreciated. Culture Kuna Love the the Love FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 (from theFrench Monday iswhatmanyconsidertobethe“realCarnival”. bands’ costumestothoseseenatMardiGrasinBrazil.Butthe nis andbeads”owingtothesimilarityofmanyparading The Tuesday,especially,hascometobecalledafestivalof“biki- spans twodays,theMondayandTuesdaybeforeAshWednesday. emphasize thebumandbustareastocomicalproportions. produce theelaboratedressesofperiod:however,theywould liberated slavesusedcostumejewelleryandscrapsofclothto tion oftheupper-classladiesattheirmasqueradeballs.The ple, theDameLorraineorLorinecharacterwasanimita- groups ontheislandsorthosewhogovernedthem. tumes weresymbolic,reflectingtheculturesofvariousethnic today’s costumedCarnivalfestivities.)Manyofthecos- estates. (Fromthesemasqueradescomestheword“mas”for had masqueradeballsattheGreatHousesontheirsugar not holdtheirowncelebrations.Meanwhile,theupperclasses to takepartinstreetparadesbutthisdidnotmeanthatthey 1838, peopleofAfricandescentormixedracewereforbidden celebrated differentlybytheupperandlowerclasses.Before evolved fromthestreetparadesof19thcenturyandwasonce occupied theseislandsincolonialtimes.TrinidadCarnival merrymaking beforeLent. termed “masformoney”:masqueraderscoveredingrease,oilor many old-timeCarnivalcharacters.Itisalsoaformofwhat yourself withmud. which isexactlywhatitsays:youputonoldclothesandsmear begins around4:30AM.HerepeoplecanparticipateinMudMas, Carnival MondaydaystartsoffwithwhatiscalledJ’ouvert The pinnacleofCarnivalcelebrationsinTrinidadandTobago Some charactersdirectlymadefunoftherichfolks.Forexam- Carnival wascelebratedbyboththeEnglishandFrenchwho C If mudisnotyourstyle,youcanplayDevilMas,whichhosts Oh, YouDevils! byJo-AnneNinaSewlal Technical shop Equipment forrent Haulout andhullsandblasting Breakdown service24/7 Engine diagnosis Boat Maintenance Mechanics andElectricity SERVICES or moreofcelebrationsandarethefinalopportunityfor days ofstreetparadesactuallymarktheendamonth of partying.UsuallyheldinFebruary,theclimactictwo arnival inthesisterislesofTrinidadandTobagoisatime C C & O a LEAVE YOUR BOATINSKILLEDHANDS r T i jour ouvert r t

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Marina Pointe-à-Pitre97110 (filters, impellers,belts) [email protected] —Continued wear chainsandpadlockstorepresenttheDevilrestrainedbyhisminions. French patoisforMolassesDevil.Inadditiontobodypaint,theycarrypitchforksand play thischaracteronyourownorwithaband.SomeJab(Diable)Molassie— on coupled withthehottropicalweather,provedtobeadangerouscombination.Youcan would coverthemselvesintar,greaseoroil.Buttheresultantlossofabilitytosweat, black —anddonapairofhorns.Previously,therewereonlydevilswhenpeople next paid notto. paint canthreatentodirtytheclothesofspectators(oftenbyhuggingthem)unless page as thesecruisersdemonstrate In DevilMas,aCarnivalcostumecanbeassimplepaint, To play a Devil, you smear yourself with coloured body paint — red, blue, green or To playaDevil,yousmearyourselfwithcolouredbodypaint—red,blue,greenor

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Vessels up to 1500 tons 150' Length - 52' Beam - 13' Draft CONSTRUCTION REPAIRS MAINTENANCE Eeek! Blue Devils interact with parade spectators Trinidad, after the J’ouvert celebrations end around 9:00 , The Sailor character came about in the 1880s with the arrival of French, British and The Sailor character came about in the 1880s with the year as well as at Carnival. There is one character that is portrayed throughout the This is French for “garden One character that is now extinct is the Negre Jardin. — women who wore many Some characters were vulgar, such as the Jamets Catching Traditional Mas “bikinis and beads” Although the Ol’ Mas characters are not played in mainstream In Trinidad and Tobago you can experience Carnival known for his “Robber Talk” where he boasts of his exploits, bravery, ancestry and of his exploits, bravery, “Robber Talk” where he boasts known for his while at the same storytelling tradition is derived from the African invincibility. This and speech patterns of the plantation owners. However, time imitating the vocabulary of the shirt and pantaloons, is influenced by the cowboys some of his attire, such as a large flowing cape painted with a skull and cross- North America. He also wears he broad-brimmed hat. He is armed with a sword or gun; bones, and a huge fringed that the shape of a coffin and a whistle around his neck has a wooden moneybox in the as a means of indicating the end of one and he blows after each of his recitations start of another. included Fancy Sailor American naval ships, and some variations on the character medals, braids, sashes, epau- and King Sailor. The Sailor costumes are decorated in the King Sailor and papier- lettes and other embellishments, such as a crown for Portraying this character mâché headpieces in the shapes of animals, birds or plants. including Crab, Rock de Boat, means performing the dances that go along with it, Camel Walk and Skip Jack. means “diviner” and This is the Moko Jumbie. Moko, from the Congo language, walk on stilts up to 12 feet Jumbie (or zombie) means “ghost”. These masqueraders wear bright shirts and hats high which are covered by long colourful pants. They also authentic African masquerade and some even wear masks. The concept behind this to see evil faster than ordi- is that its great height allows this protector of the village a sort of a jig to drums, flutes nary humans can. In the old days they would dance the balconies of houses. and triangles while collecting money from persons in After emancipation, the charac- slave” and was once portrayed by plantation owners. Carnival characters include ter was adopted by the former slaves. Other extinct gloves and goggles and would Firemen or Stokers who dressed in baggy pants, thick a fire. They would usually pre- push a long thin iron rod as though they were stoking clothes, large floppy hats and cede the Sailors. The Yard Sweeps wore long skirts, old offer to sweep one’s yard for a mask and carried a coconut frond broom. They would The Fancy Clowns’ colourful a fee, refusal of which usually meant acts of vandalism. collar with baggy pants and costumes included a crown and an elaborate large fan-like characters covered their faces shirt and oversized shoes. Pai Banan or Banana Trash white headpiece with either two with brown cloth or a papier-mâché mask and wore a at night. In the 1920s, some long wire antennae or horns and would scare people left-to-right. There was also would dress up as Charlie Chaplin, wearing their shoes holding a “stolen” chicken and Police and Thief where one person dressed as a thief When the “thief” was caught would run away from another dressed as a police officer. he would be spanked and released. feathers and exposed their starched petticoats and large hats with flowers and their pants low on their hips. breasts, while the men wore lots of gold chains and in long nightgowns who used Pissenlit (“wet the bed”) were men and women dressed today. foul language and danced in the fashion known as “wining” on Carnival Monday. J’ouvert Carnival, they are still portrayed by smaller groups happening simultane- lasts only a few hours, with various bands and competitions in or look at. In Port of ously, so it is up to you which one you want to participate Spain bands take to the streets to parade. Characters like Bat, Minstrel, Moko Jumbie, Fancy Sailor, Jab Jab and Gownman are performed by small to medium-sized bands numbering a few hundred. Fancy Indian mas is still big in the city of San Fernando in the south of the island. burro- E-Mail: [email protected] • Awl Grip boat spray and antifouling Tel: + 590 590 911 011 Fax: + 590 590 919 652 • All Types of mechanical and engineering work • Bow thrusters – Stabilizers - Shafts and props • 4 Docks : 120 tons – 200 tons – 650 tons – 1480 tons Seminole Marine, 97110 - Pointe à Pitre - Guadeloupe, F.W.I. • Carpentry and fiberglass repairs to the highest standards

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meaning “little donkey”. Here the masquerader wears a wire frame (originally made meaning “little donkey”. Here the masquerader wears a GUADELOUPE DRY DOCKS Continued from previous page Continued from The second such character is the Midnight Robber who, dressed all in black, is well There are two more characters that display linguistic skills as part of their perfor- There are two more characters that display linguistic Other characters include the Fancy Indian, based on Native Americans from North Other characters include the Fancy Indian, based on Outside Influences North American culture. This Some Carnival characters were solely influenced by Staying with the four-legged theme, there is the Cow Band where small groups of Staying with the four-legged theme, there is the Cow Another old-time character is the Burrokeet, which comes from the VenezuelanAnother old-time character is the Burrokeet, which Another common J’ouvert character is the Baby Doll, which was most popular in theAnother common J’ouvert character is the Baby Doll, which Old-Time Caribbean Characters Ol’ Mas competition where masqueraders wear home- During J’ouvert there is an Then there is the Bookman, also called the Ruler or Gownman, who forms a part of also called the Ruler or Gownman, who forms a part Then there is the Bookman, The Bat also forms part of Devil Mas. Persons clad in tight black or brown body- The Bat also forms part of Another form of Devil Mas is the Jab Jab, which again is derived from French patois which again is derived from of Devil Mas is the Jab Jab, Another form Members of the band also attach neck straps to large biscuit-tins to make drums, to large biscuit-tins band also attach neck straps Members of the mance. The first is the Pierrot Grenade who is derived from the Pierrot, a richly mance. The first is the Pierrot Grenade who is derived dressed scholar who would spell long words and quote Shakespeare. He is armed with a whip and leads a band of female supporters who fight on his behalf against other Pierrot groups. The Pierrot Grenade is dressed in a suit made of burlap material, covered in strips of coloured rags, with small boxes and tins containing pebbles that rattle when he moves. America but with more elaborate costumes including immense headdresses of beads, America but with more elaborate costumes including have to be built over a frame. mirrors and feathers, some of which are so large they they speak, which is adapt- Another feature of this character is the “Indian language” in New Orleans. There are other ed from that used by the Black Indians at Mardi Gras Indians. These include the types of Indian characters generally referred to as Wild and Black or African Indians. Blue Indians and Red Indians (Warahoons) of Venezuela that entire families can partici- To me, the best thing about playing this character is pate as a tribe. is shown by minstrels, who imitated the minstrel shows which were popular at the is shown by minstrels, who imitated the minstrel shows trousers, top hats and gloves, turn of the last century, dressing in tail coats, striped American minstrels, how- and playing guitars and singing. In contrast to the North ever, here black persons paint their faces white. men wear costumes made from rice bags covered with dried plantain leaves, and a men wear costumes made from rice bags covered with by abattoir employees, who papier-mâché cow’s head mask. It was usually portrayed the crowds. It became part of would behave like stampeding cattle and run through and male and female singers Carnival Tuesday celebrations, when the cows, matadors the music was provided by were all dressed in colourful costumes and masks. Here or maracas. banjo, cuatro, guitar, mandolin, violin and chac-chacs quito, illusion that he is riding thisout of bamboo) made to resemble a donkey, giving the a large satin dress, the skirt ofbeast. The masquerader wears a large straw hat and and may be decorated withwhich covers the donkey’s body. The tail is made of rope and the masquerader dances inflowers. There are reins leading from the donkey’s head, Burrokeets may also perform aa way that mimics the bucking action of a donkey. The dance called Burriquite, which originated in Venezuela. Spanish cultures. The name of the character is derived from the Spanish word Spanish cultures. The name of the character is derived 1930s but is still portrayed at Ol’ Mas competitions. Dressed in a frilly dress and bonnet1930s but is still portrayed at Ol’ Mas competitions. Dressed the masquerader accuses maleand carrying a doll (symbolizing an illegitimate baby), money for milk for the baby.spectators and passers-by of being the father and demands is much funnier when done byThis character is portrayed by both men and women, but men who speak in high-pitched voices. made costumes depicting any current or popular topic — usually of social or political current or popular topic — usually of social or political made costumes depicting any just an interesting twist on a saying. For instance there importance, but sometimes our which means that you are hanging out (“lime” is is a saying “Ah pushing a lime” she dressed as a boy and slang for hanging out). So when my mom was young, pushed a lime with a stick down the street. Devil Mas. He is dressed in either a satin or velvet gown with rich embroidery or in either a satin or velvet gown with rich embroidery Devil Mas. He is dressed flowing cape emblazoned with Biblical scenes, a ruffled Tudor-style pants, a large and that resembles the Devil. He carries a large book shirt and an oversized headpiece by names of prospective souls for the Devil. Accompanied a pen and writes down the and trumpets and drums, his dance is quite elegant an orchestra of saxophones, as any sudden movements might cause his large head- waltz-like. This is expected, piece to fall off. hugging costumes wear a papier-mâché headpiece in the form of a bat, shoes and and papier-mâché headpiece in the form of a bat, shoes hugging costumes wear a the wings made from wire and cane or bamboo covered in gloves with claws, and bat of course they imitate the movements of bats, crawling same costume material. And is closing their wings and flapping around. But there on the ground or opening and bat these movements are choreographed to form a method to the madness and dance. and is commonly called Pretty Devil Mas. Here the costume resembles that of a court Here the costume resembles called Pretty Devil Mas. and is commonly carry whips which with padded horns. They Middle Ages, having a hat jester from the Jab’s costume to can reduce another Jab so often and which they crack every shreds. and beat on car-tire rims and blow whistles to the chant of “Pay the Devil!” You can to the chant of “Pay the rims and blow whistles and beat on car-tire a clean getaway you a head start to make a mile away, which gives hear them coming pun. — pardon the — FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 charts. Fairtides! nadir tosoonafteritsrising,thetiderunswestward.Timesgivenarelocal. moon’s settingtojustafteritsnadir,thetiderunseastward;andfrom moon reachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward.Fromjustafterthe to theeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutanhour calculate thetides. of themeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisandnextmonth,willhelpyou author ofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,whichshowsthetime your passagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDonStreet, 19 0750 18 0659 17 0609 16 0519 15 0431 14 0344 13 0258 12 0211 11 0124 10 0035 9 0000 8 2340 (full) 7 2241 6 2139 5 2035 4 1931 3 1831 2 1735 1 1644 DATE TIME February CURACAO MARINE For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestartsrunning Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewillmake call: +(5999)4658936email:[email protected] website:www.curacaomarine.com MERIDIAN PASSAGE AWL gripapplicationandmanyotherservices Teakworks, stainlessandaluminumfabrication Yacht storagemaintenanceandrepair FEBRUARY &MARCH2009 OF THEMOON 8 2220 7 2126 6 2028 5 1927 4 1825 3 1724 2 1626 1 1532 DATE TIME March 28 1442 27 1356 26 1312 25 1228 24 1145 (new) 23 1102 22 1016 21 0929 20 0840 They fixedmybottom

situated justoutsideofthehurricanebelt 27 1237 26 1151 25 1106 (new) 24 1032 23 1939 22 1855 21 0809 20 0722 19 0632 18 0542 17 0450 16 0359 15 0310 14 0221 13 0134 12 0047 11 0008 10 0000 9 2314 (full) curacao M ARINE Norma Prudhon. agent. ShewasoneofthefirstmembersAntiguaYachtClub. More ThanaYachtSalesAgent: early daysof the GalleyBoutiqueandNicholsonCaribbeanYachtSales.In Antigua, workinginvariousbusinessesatEnglishHarbourincluding Norma separatedintheearly1970s,settledashore and thenthe114-foot couple laterranthe63-footschooner Antigua inthelate1960sandcharteredwithNicholsonfleet.The and herhusband,MarcPrudhon,sailedtheir50-foot Norma PrudhondiedonNovember11th,2008.English-born —Continuedonnextpage and dry”inaboatyardTortola! tive buyerspartakinginanonboardafternoon kipwhileviewingtheboatlying“high Nicholson’s YachtSales—encouraging the unlikelyscenarioofagentandprospec- some yachtas Grand AllianceII Below: ‘ItisdoubtfulthatJoeandIwouldhaveboughtsuchasizeableyachtas Above: ‘Howluckyweweretohaveourlivestouched,albeitbriefly,byNorma’ Former cruiserClareSudlowsharestwoanecdotesrelatingto As reportedinlastmonth’s It isdoubtfulthatmypartnerJoeandI would haveboughtsuchasizable,hand- Norma SellsUs Norma Prudhon The Late,Great Grand Alliance ifithadn’tbeenforher’ Caribbean Compass S/Y GrandAllianceII Marie Pierre ifithadn’tbeenforNorma,ourbroker —thenof by

Clare Sudlow Compass , NormawasourAntiguaisland forBaronBic.AfterMarcand Lord Jim , long-timeAntiguaresident forownerJolByerley, Anahita to FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27

Grand (with Grand Alliance’s Grand Alliance’s or take an opportu- Grand Alliance II and remained in touch with Grand Alliance II Grand Alliance II Superyacht Services Guide to the Mediterranean. on Our Behalf and requested a sea trial. This was duly arranged, but and requested a sea trial. This was duly arranged, but dinghy lift as an extra selling point. What a broker! worked her special magic on us all and Joe and I went on worked her special magic Grand Alliance Grand Alliance II with the full and sensible intention of making best use of this, our with the full and sensible Grand Alliance , a once splendid CT54 ketch, on the hard and sadly neglected. Now mid- and sadly neglected. Now CT54 ketch, on the hard , a once splendid Grand Alliance’s Continued from previous page Continued from Her memorably self-effacing enjoyment of the whole situation, where others might Norma Sells It was a couple of hours in the afternoon that clinched the deal. Replete from a the afternoon that clinched the deal. Replete from It was a couple of hours in This unlikely story came about on a hot and humid tropical summer’s day in 1998 and humid tropical summer’s story came about on a hot This unlikely The young couple went on to buy Now, very thankfully one of the very “Grand” accessories fitted by On the chosen day, most fortunately in many ways (and most unusually), there The young couple were eventually back on board and Joe and I were handing out Clare Sudlow and Joe are former Caribbean cruiser/liveaboards who have for the She soon found an interested couple from the UK and, after much negotiating, they She soon found an interested couple from the UK and, As often happens, life had to move on and much as we loved our seemingly idyllic As often happens, life had to move on and much as we ‘Life had to move on…’ Joe and the author eventually sold ‘Life had to move on…’ Joe and the author eventually and are now back Norma’s help, of course), worked in Europe for a few years, in Antigua have cringed with embarrassment, forged an instant bond between herself and the young prospective buyers. And, to our advantage, she had proved the “multiple-use value” of previous owner was an electric, submersible dinghy platform. As a last hope of ever getting Norma aboard again, Joe lowered the platform to its deepest extent. With more shrieks, giggles and splashes Norma negotiated herself onto the lift and was electrically elevated like a self-confessed “beached whale” up to deck height to be safely rolly-polly’d back on board! to buy her as our home and to enjoy possibly the best (and often most frustrating!) to enjoy possibly the best (and often most frustrating!) to buy her as our home and the islands from the BVI to Trinidad. We were always six years of our lives cruising base and welcoming friends in Antigua, feeling lucky thankful to return to our home these special friends. to include Norma as one of surprisingly good lunch in the boatyard café, we returned to a now much cooler the boatyard café, we returned to a now much cooler surprisingly good lunch in Grand Alliance — to really get down to a thorough further inspection one-and-only day of viewing, for bilges and through-hull fittings, bottlescrews checked cabin soles up to check the etcetera — but no, with barely a word exchanged rust, chainplates scrutinized, a if by unspoken mutual agreement, I went aft to get between the three of us, as Joe went forward to do likewise in the guest cabin, better “feel” of the main cabin, that snoozed the afternoon away in the saloon! During while Norma, God bless her, afternoon Alliance II get aboard and had to first find a ladder to the sun blazing down, we morning with boat. Once both open the blisteringly hot with a key so that we could secondly a man heat and discom- of the morning in great we spent the remainder had been obtained, with the systems, layout, rig, etcetera, as best we could fort familiarizing ourselves Norma could so well when selling boats: she never ceased while Norma did what only the most trivial facts but, in fact, always cleverly chatting away, seemingly about attributes we came across with many more positive ones out-weighing any negative that we may have overlooked! They have now come home to roost in Antigua. when, following a very early start to catch a typically complicated and erratic LIAT a typically complicated a very early start to catch when, following way of a quick and I grabbed a taxi (by to Tortola, Joe, Norma flight from Antigua eventually at horse race track) to arrive check out the newly renovated “swing by” to to view we had an appointment Nanny Cay Marina. Here our destination, — was not a breath of wind. So having motored down to Carlisle Bay under the swelter- ing winter sun, on anchoring we all decided that a swim was going to be the savior of the day! Norma had come prepared and was already attired in a “bathing dress”, and lowered herself into the beautiful water by way of the swimming ladder while the rest of us leapt in and enjoyed a lovely cool-off. With lunch in mind, Joe and I soon skimmed up the ladder and back on board to make the necessary preparations, leaving Norma and our two enthusiastic prospective buyers to admire towels and serving drinks when we heard a great deal of huffing, puffing, shrieking, laughing and splashing coming from the swim ladder. Looking over the side we soon realized that we had rather a “large” problem on our hands — there was no way Norma was able to haul herself out of the water, let alone propel herself up the ladder. past five years been co-authors of the considering our prospective buyers’ total lack of seagoing experience, Norma advised considering our prospective buyers’ total lack of seagoing Joe, Norma and I would that it might be best to treat the “sea trial” like a day charter: only down to Carlisle Bay and take them for a gentle sail under genoa and mizzen anchor there for a special lunch served in the cockpit. Then, having put the main up at anchor, it would be a tack, tack motor-sail back to English Harbour. waterline, hang off the anchor rode, and do all the other things one does. Norma over the years, feeling as we and many others do how lucky they were to have had their lives touched, albeit briefly, by dear Norma — one of life’s most special, fun and kind people. booked a flight to come and view the boat. Luckily for us they were immediately booked a flight to come and view the boat. Luckily impressed with nity to travel and work in Europe. We decided on the latter and in 2004 sadly called nity to travel and work in Europe. We decided on the on our behalf as broker. up Norma at Nicholson’s Yacht Sales to ask her to act cruiser/liveaboard lifestyle a decision had to be made — to continue to break our cruiser/liveaboard lifestyle a decision had to be made backs maintaining our now beautifully restored FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 this issueappearin monthly copyofthe Ahoy, MARIGOT OYSTER POND PHILIPSBURG COLE BAY SIMPSON BAY Marina FortLouis The Moorings Sunsail Dinghy DockBar Captain Oliver’s Scuba Shop Island WaterWorld Bobby’s Marina Diesel Outfitters Electec St. MaartenSails Island WaterWorld Frostline Refrigeration Lagoon Marina FKG Rigging Budget Marine The YachtClub The MailBox Shell SimpsonBay Customs Office Café Atlantico Compass PICK UP! Readers!WheninSt.Maarten/St.Martin,pickupyourfree Caribbean Compass bold ): at anyoftheselocations(advertisersin perfect amuletfor2009. bol forfaith,hope,andlovetheNew Year.Itnowdanglesfrommyneck,the only onein1,000iseverfound.Ontheface restsaperfectlyformedcrucifix,sym- to thesands.Myprize:aMaryseabean, consideredrareamongstbeachcombers,as did Iknowthatgoodfortuneawaitedme, too,asIlaterstrolleddownthebeach,nose dangled alacqueredsea-heartthatglistened brightlyinthemorningsunlight.Little as stunningnecklacesandbraceletsinJamaica andthroughouttheCaribbean. ornamental shakergourd.I’veseenthem usedasrosariesatCatholicmass,andsold ojo debuey shampoo orlaundrysoap. constipation, snakebites,orasanaphrodisiac.Villagewomenusethepoultice as poultices between villagesbynativesintheAmazonRiverBasin.Theyhavebeenground into particular rainforestlianaarebelievedtopreventhemorrhoidsandcarried given topatientssufferingfromParkinson’sdisease.Maleandfemaleseeds one purposes. Thebeanpodscontainthebrainneurotransmitterdopamine,which is beaches inFlorida,theUK,andEurope. to strongCaribbeanoceancurrents,thousandsofdriftseedsarefoundeachyear on them buoyant,allowingtorideoceancurrentsforyearsadistantport.Due woody seedcoat,theseedsareimpervioustowater,andinternalaircavitiesmake and creekscollectthemcarryouttosea.Becauseoftheirhard,thick, cane-force windsforcethemoutofthepodandontoforestfloor,wheregullies peze artistsoftheforestbyusingit. or moreinjust18months.Monkeys,sloths,lizards,andsnakesbecomeadept tra- for spaceandlight,themonkeyladdercanquicklyclimbtoheightsofahundred feet thoroughfares forforestanimals.Becauseoftheintensecompetitionbetweenplants forest canopylikebotanicalboaconstrictors,creating“monkeyladders”—arboreal because oftheattachmentscarfromvine.Thetropicalvinestwinethrough containing severallargeseeds.Someresemblehearts,othersminiaturehamburgers plants. Oncepollinationoccurs,theovaryofeachflowerdevelopsintoalegumepod night-flying bats.Thebatssipthesweetnectar,transferringpollentoother soms danglefromupperrainforestcanopies,wheretheyareeasilyaccessedby the AmazonRiverBasinandotherrainforestsaroundworld.Clustersofblos-

the Caribbeanforfirsttimeon and forsafepassages—theperfectgiftakindladyofseawhowascruising one soneartoSt.Valentine’sDay.Seaheartsareanauguryofbetterthingscome Curious bystandersstoppedtoviewthecommotion. exclamation resoundedintothebarsandcafés,shopshomesalongsideroad. blue heavenswithfingertipswriggling,sheshoutedaprayerful“thank-you!”Her retrieved afaultlessseaheartfromthehigh-watertidemark.Armsstretchedto nearby. AndthenDebbiesimplylaunchedintooverdrive,nosetothesands. while ourhusbandstradedoutboardenginelife-savingtechniquesatastreetsidecafé bolt infrontofaspeedingcar?Wehadbeendiscussingthemeritsextendedcruising, cruising buddytobeindireneedofhelp.Hadshebeenstungbyabee?Seenchild blond manestreamingbehindher.Takenaback,Ichargedafterher,consideringmynew as seedsinsidelargepodsofawildtropicalvine( tropical almondsarelargerexamplesofdriftseeds.Thesmallerseaheartsoriginate the heart,forbeancansurvivelongperilousjourneysacrossoceansyears. beans. Sailorsbelievedtheywouldbeprotectedfromevilspiritsandillnessifwore hearts werewornbyhiscrewasamulets,andcalled search ofnewsea-routestoAsia.Whenembarkingonlongoceanvoyages,thesea byTinaDreffin A weeklater,IcaughtupwithDebbieat thelocalfarmers’market.Fromherneck Few Caribbeanportsarewithouttheselovelyseabeans:inBelizetheycalled Not onlyareseabeanssymbolsofgoodluck,theyhaveamultitudemedicinal Once thegiantvelvetylegumepodsproducelarge,heart-shapedseeds,hurri- A seaheart!Myheartsoared—goodfortunestrikestheluckypersonwhofinds Suddenly, shehaltedinhertracks,bentforwardintoastunningyogapose,and She raceddownthebeachinOrientBayofSt.Martinlikeawildmare,withhertangled Sea heartsaremorewidelyknownasseabeansordriftseeds.Coconutsand It issaidthataseaheartgaveColumbustheinspirationtosailwestfromEuropein HHEART

designed forsailorsbyMotherNature This floatingseedseemstobeaValentine’sDaygift to relievepainfulinflammationsandtakeninternallyforcontraception, (eye ofthebull)bylocalresidents;inDominica, theyareusedasan E SSEA E A Island Fever A , aLagoon42. R Entada gigas favas deColum

), likethosefoundin T or Columbus orColumbus FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 S A

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MaMa Zar-Par Marina Mark and Lee Maunder Mark and Lee S/V Manatee United Kingdom 12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95 12 issues US$29.95, Join our growing list of on-line subscribers! Join our growing www.caribbeancompass.com Please keep up the Please keep Tel: 809 523 5858 Visit: marinazarpar.com email: Tel: 809 523 5858 Visit: marinazarpar.com extremely work — good forwardwe look very each much to Compass! month’s FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 oldest survivingexampleofsucharailwayintheworld. marine railwaysinthewesternhemisphereandmaybe into theParksystem.Itwasoneofearlieststeam-powered was soldtotheDepartmentofInteriorandincorporated in the1930sandremaineduseuntil1960s.In1978it Railway in1912.Therailwaywaspurchasedbyanotherfamily auction, restoreditandreopenedastheCrequeMarine tures andhurricanedamage.HenryO.Crequeboughtitat until 1910,whenitfailedcommerciallyduetoworn-outstruc- and wereinuseuntil1885. facilities. TheseinstallationswerereferredtoasFortWilloughby the islandandbuiltadock,warehouse,coalstationother attracted ustotheisland. of thethenHasselPeninsula.Theseareruinsthathad structed FortShipley(orShipley’sBattery)onthehighestpoint when DenmarkalliedwithNapoleonicFrance.TheBritishcon- St. ThomasduringtheNapoleonicWarsfrom1801to1815, lized bytheDanishtodefendharbor.TheBritishoccupied home ofthefamoussailmaker,ManfredDietrich. at HasselIslandamongthelocalboatsCareeningCove, to explore.Itisalsosometimespossiblefindroomanchor harbor —so,intrigued,wetookthedinghyoverfromLongBay Thomas, andanoldfortotherruinsarevisiblefromthe epidemics. ThecutwaswidenedbytheUSArmyCorpsofEngineersin1919. water circulationintheharbor,thusdecreasingsewagebuild-upandensuingcholera separated fromthemainislandbyDanishgovernmentin1860,toallowbetter hullet Paiewonskis novel, on theisland,whichbecamesettingforHermanWouk’s the ruinsanduncoverother,stillhiddenremains. National HistoricPlacesRegistry.Workisbeingdonetorestore Historic Districtandthefortmarinerailwayarelistedon remain. TheentireislandisincludedintheHasselIsland the VirginIslandsNationalPark.Afewprivateresidences QUIET CLEAN POWER In the mid-1900s, most of the island was owned by the In themid-1900s,mostofislandwasownedby The Danishbuiltamarinerailwayandmadegreatuseofit In 1840,aBritishshippingcompanybaseditsoperationson In colonialtimes,HasselIsland’sstrategiclocationwasuti- The entireislandcanbeseenfromatopanyofseveralhighpromontoriesonSt. Once uponatime,itwaspeninsulaoftheislandSt.Thomas,formingan H a long life in a bullet proof package. a longlife inabulletproof ina6literengineensures Generating 135hpat amodest2600rpm make theM135acost effectivemake choice withsignificantowner savings over alternative engines. pricing, Competitive engineandparts and exceptionally intervals low service fuelconsumption extended integral plate inthetoughest sealsgivingprotection oil cooler conditions. and specialcrankshaft temperatures for exceptionally reliable anddurable performance. Leak free operation is ensured by an heatexchange Highcapacity tubestacksensure equipmentwithcupro-nickel low component operating points ineithersingleortwininstallations. designed to permit awiderange ofoperating anglesandalsooffers easyaccess to allroutine servicing The M135isanexcellent repower choice. initsclass, packages Oneofthemostcompact ithasbeen new 'QUADRAM' combustion system andfullyclosedbreather system. costs.service It’s operator andenvironment friendlywithlow noiseandlow emissions achieved withthe This naturally aspirated engineboastspremium enginefeatures for reliability, minimaldown timeand , or hurricane hole, where ships took shelter during storms. The peninsula was , orhurricanehole,whereshipstookshelterduringstorms.Thepeninsulawas Don’t StoptheCarnival. Hassel Island Hazzel (orHazel)family,prominentresidentsintheearly1800s. Harbor, justoffthetownofCharlotteAmalie.Itgetsitsnamefrom assel IslandisasmallUSVirginof135acressetinSt.Thomas , a prominent local family. There was a small hotel a prominentlocalfamily.Therewassmallhotel Historic Today most of the island is part of Today mostoftheislandispart by JacquieMilman Sabre M135 Sabre M65 M92B M115T M135 M225Ti M265Ti M300Ti M65 M92BM115TM135M225Ti M265Ti ALL ASHORE… orkan- marine railway steam-powered the ruinsofCreque’s Islands’ history.Theseare quiet reminderofVirgin Hassel Island(below)isa teeming CharlotteAmalie, Just astone’sthrowfrom s b r ig b fo sures beforeleavingthisfascinatingsite. by thedinghydockhadalotofseaglass,sowegleanedfewtrea- rocky withacoupleofsmallsand-and-pebblebeaches.Thebeach iguana whileclimbing.Theviewfromthetopisnottobemissed. bushes, grassandcacti.Wescaredacoupleofwildgoatsan followed oneofthehikingtrailsthroughdensegrowthconsisting Back atsealevel,webeachcombed.ThecoastofHasselIslandis WewanderedthroughthestructuresatFortShipley,andthen

Call uson (284)4942830for adealernearyou. CRUISING GUIDE PUBLICATIONS/WWW.CRUISINGGUIDES.COM GUIDE CRUISING FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 Thanks to Fundación La Tortuga for Thanks to Fundación La Tortuga non-profit group Fundación La Tortuga non-profit group Fundación serves as have shown that this space of species fragile habitat for hundreds of them of animals and plants, many extinction. endemic and in danger of The protection of this biodiversity, geological along with the historical, the island, and archaeological value of is a necessity. more information in this article. For information visit www.fundacionlatortuga.com. In recent years, Isla La Tortuga has been discovered by yachtsmen looking for discovered by yachtsmen Isla La Tortuga has been In recent years, environmen- Tortuga has been damaged largely unnoticed, Isla La Gradually, and of Pampatar, Margarita, for the production of charcoal. Margarita, for the production of Pampatar, beaten track. hurricane belt and off the anchorages below the beautiful, unspoiled and Cayo Herradura are favorites. Playa Caldera the island continues almost uninhabited but increasingly tally over the years. Today if suitable measures are not taken to control inappropri- susceptible to deterioration detrimental activities now taking place, and instead, ate development and other the The investigations made over the past four years by encourage low-impact uses. As indicated by the grid of squares drawn on this map, Caribbean salt ‘mines’ were often, in fact, As indicated by the grid of squares drawn on this map, seawater was allowed to evaporate and salt ‘pans’ — a system of shallow, man-made ponds where the salt left behind was then collected CARIBBEAN MARITIME HISTORY CARIBBEAN Fought Over Fought and Forgotten Diccionario de Islas Isla La Tortuga: Isla La Tortuga: of Relación This initiative did not prosper and by January 1910, the This initiative did not prosper and by January 1910, the For 500 years, the island of La Tortuga has been considered strate- For 500 years, the island of La Tortuga has been considered One of the oldest known references One of the oldest known references of 1631, The Dutch remained on the island until the beginning For the Venezuelan Isla La Tortuga, the story opened in May of 1499, when Tortuga, the story opened in May of 1499, when For the Venezuelan Isla La In 1605, after the Spanish expelled Much has been written about the treasure that the frightful pirate Blackbeard hid that the frightful pirate written about the treasure Much has been Venezolanas. to a resident executive of the State of Nueva Esparta leased the land gically important for Venezuelan national defense. But not much is gically important for Venezuelan national defense. But of the salt known of what occurred on the island after the decline value”, it has industry. Pejoratively called “of little commercial always remained outside the general interest, although fishermen second largest realized its importance. Nevertheless, it is the the Venezuelan Venezuelan island after Isla Margarita. In 1903, estates for the Congress decided to use this extensive area to found pigs and poul- growing of fruit trees, and the raising of goats, cattle, try, as mentioned by Pablo Ramirez in his book, to Isla La Tortuga appears in to Isla La Tortuga appears Señora de Geográfica de Nuestra León, Caraballeda y Santiago de of a flotilla when Núñez Meleán removed them with the support native South equipped with 40 selected Spanish soldiers and 116 the com- American “Indians” armed with bows and arrows. Under took the Dutch mand of Captain Benito Arias Montano, the expedition the Dutch were by surprise. Although they tried to flee in two ships, but intense quickly intercepted by the Spanish forces. After a short the Spaniards hand-to-hand battle, the Dutch were taken prisoner, carried to the proclaimed victory and a large shipment of salt was This was the mainland port of La Guaira as if it were pirates’ booty. Spanish crown first battle on the high seas over salt. With it, the part of its regained possession of territories that it already considered who removed domain, expelling those it saw as usurping enemies wealth that should rightfully have gone to Spain. Spain sent towards the New World Alonso de Ojeda, the navigator Américo New World Alonso de Ojeda, the navigator Américo Spain sent towards the Juan de la Cosa. Initially they followed the route Vespuccio and the cartographer but of the third voyage of Columbus, make the a detour allowed them to by first complete exploration coast, Europeans of the Venezuelan Cosa took during which Juan de la the first the opportunity to carry out waters. known survey of Venezuelan the Dutch the Dutch from the salt mines of the Araya peninsula, to an old settled on Isla La Tortuga to mine salt there. According the Dutch con- map that rests in the Archivo de Indias, in Spain, of artillery. structed a fort of bricks containing numerous pieces the island and The salt mines were located in the eastern part of where they the port of embarkation was on the southeastern coast onto had constructed a wharf for loading the valuable commodity their ships. on the island of Tortuga and of the Brotherhood of the Coast, the armed privateers of the Coast, the of Tortuga and of the Brotherhood on the island Tortuga off the happened on the island of who protected it. All this and buccaneers as is sometimes off the coast of Venezuela, and not the Isla La Tortuga coast of Haiti of Caribbean with almost 3,700 kilometers Venezuelan waters, thought. Nevertheless, also constituted a suitable stage for nautical drama. coastline and 314 islands, Juan de 1578. There, Don Governor was being Pimentel indicates that salt But it was extracted from the island. Governor not until the mandate of the Núñez of Cumaná, Don Francisco — compa- Meleán, that this industry rable in importance to today’s oil industry — reached its peak. FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 FEBRUARY MEANSCARNIVALTIMEINMANYPARTSOF Compass CruisingCrossword THE CARIBBEAN.GETINMOODFOR‘MAS’WITH Word SearchPuzzlebyPaulineDolinski THIS WORDSEARCHPUZZLE. ©

Caribbean Compass2009 Word SearchPuzzlesolutionon page36 33) AncientChineseemperorknownforfloodcontrol 31) Hooray! 30) Sailor’stallstory 28) Foaming,breakingsea 27) Pertainingto10Across 26) Oldspellingforpleasureboat 23) Aninsecurecaptaindoesthis 20) Crewmemberinchargeofstores 19) BarbaryCoastthree-mastedshipwithsquaresailonforemast 17) Archaicslangforquicktothehelm 16) Child’stoy 15) Onthehardin____ 14) “_____gottoseethis!”(contraction) 13) Highestpointinsky 12) Whatsomesailclothdoesinthesun 11) Woman’sname 10) Extremeenthusiast 9) ResortislandoffSt.Vincent 8) Cousintosweetpotato 7) Thealphabet’sthird-to-lastletter,inradio-speak 6) Horizontalsparsaloft 5) Naught 4) Avessel’smovementthroughthewater 3) Pitch,rolland___ 2) With5Across,irregularcourse 1) Mrs.JohnLennon DOWN 36) Sailingforpleasure 35) Thealphabet’slastletter,inradio-speak 34) Yachtwithmizzenaftofrudder 33) Abluewatergalleystaple 32) Secondbankofrowersinancientgalleys 31) Affirmative 29) Lineusedtohoistsparaloft(2words) 28) Heaveto 26) Dexterousorquick(archaic) 25) HotwindofArgentinepampas 24) “___-hoo!”:landlubberlanguagefor“Ahoy!” 22) Light,pleasantbreeze 21) Thefeminineoppositeofyang 20) Japanesecurrency 18) Holdsboominplaceharbor —AntoinedeSaint-Exupery 16) “…teachthemto_____forthevastandendlesssea” 15) Sail-trainingpioneerIrvingJohnson’sschooner 14) Rod-and-ropetillersubstitute 13) Guadelouperegatta(orplaceforcaptiveanimals) 12) Outboardendofcrosstree 10) ____Time:standardtimeofthesea 8) Chinesesampan(2words) 5) Mateto2Down 3) ColorofQsignalflag 2) LargestworkingschooneronUSWestCoast 1) “___distantshore” ACROSS Nautical Alphabet:XYZ Crossword Solutiononpage33 FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33

d n s t [email protected] la e IIslands o PPoets — Richard Dey Poem on Valentine’s Day Poem on Valentine’s Mavis and John, brown skin and light meet each other on a star-shining night. The big man smiles, and the lady just now looks in his eyes and they fall in love. He bought her a ship as beauteous as she, and talked about sailing — she said: “Yes sir!” They crossed the Atlantic in very few days, so in Seru Boca everyone says That John is a sailor, really so great, and we sailor-friends, we cannot wait to see them kiss on Valentine’s Day, and sail farther on, living the loving way. — Anne Hjælmsø parlumps marooned ON BEQUIA ON A RAINY DAY DAY A RAINY A rainy day on Bequia, — A rainy day on Bequia line squalls driving through. and of the love we lost, hard not to think of you losing diesel, masts, a schooner underway, A rainy day on Bequia, and anchor off Shark Bay. a rainy day on Bequia halyards pull and slap; blowing, against the Trade Wind and my nerves snap Where’s that rainbow shining, line squalls driving through. A rainy day on Bequia. in bands yellow, red, and blue? old hulls and nourish trees; Squalls silence roads and clean squalls keep the island green.

9) YOUNG 10) ZEALOT 11) ZOE 12) YELLOWS 13) ZENITH 14) YOU’VE 15) YARD 16) YOYO 17) YAR 19) XEBEC 20) YEOMAN 23) YELLS 26) YAUGHT 27) ZONAL 28) YESTY 30) YARN 31) YAY 33) YU (22 Jun - 23 Jul) LEO (24 Jul - 23 Aug) 26) YARE 28) YOE 29) YARD ROPE 31) YES 32) XUGIA 33) YEAST 34) YAWL 35) ZULU 36) YACHTING DOWN 1) YOKO 2) ZIG 3) YAW 4) WAY 5) ZERO 6) YARDS 7) XRAY 8) YAM LIBRA (24 Sep - 23 Oct) PISCES (20 Feb - 20 Mar) ARIES (21 Mar - 20 Apr) VIRGO (24 Aug - 23 Sep) GEMINI (22 May - 21 Jun) TAURUS (21 Apr - 21 May) SCORPIO (24 Oct - 22 Nov) AQUARIUS (21 Jan - 19 Feb) CANCER CAPRICORN (22 Dec - 20 Jan) SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov - 21 Dec) FEBRUARY 2009 FEBRUARY This will be a productive time for you; use it to best As your romantic distractions wane, your creative ener- Pile on more sail! The rough seas of romance that hin- Use the first three weeks to finish projects before Hold your course for the time being. Love might be in The creative juices will be flowing and the winds fair, so Just batten down the hatches for this month. Business Seas will rise and winds howl to challenge your creativ- Your powers of persuasion will serve you well this While romance sails over the horizon, your creativity It’s your turn for romantic distractions, so just ease Your productive energy will dissipate during the second advantage on boat projects and cruising plans. gies will gather way. Take this time to make progress with any onboard projects you’ve been putting off. dered your progress last month will settle and you will make headway once again. you run out of wind and become distracted by a ship- board romance. irons after the first week and you will have difficulty chart- ing a new course until next month. use these aspects to make progress with projects on board. may be slow, and rough seas could make things worse around the 20th. ity; make sure your love life is well secured. month, except where your heart is concerned. will blossom. your mainsheet and enjoy! week, so get those boat chores done while it lasts. Crossword Solution ACROSS 1) YON 2) ZODIAC 3) YELLOW 5) ZAG 8) YOW YOW 10) ZONE 12) YARDARM 13) ZOO 14) YOKE 15) YANKEE 16) YEARN 18) YOLK 20) YEN 21) YIN 22) ZEPHYR 24) YOO 25) ZONDA FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34

ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2008 © were allowedtowatchTVinthesittingroom,whileMadamCintaread,thenat9:30 porter winkedattheboysasheservedthemfishandchips.Afterdinnerchildren “Stupid oldgoat!” ing thebrighttropicallighttofloodintoroom.WhenhewasgoneTrevorgrinned, girl herewehaveabedbythewindow.”Andhepulledbackheavycurtainallow- how boysareandyou’llhavefunsleepingovertheoperatingtable.Butforlittle wringing theirseveredarmsandlegsdrippingblood.Oh!Theydoenjoyit.Iknow tell methattheyhearterriblescreamsinthenightandseepaleshadowsofghosts even Trevorhadturnedpale.“OurguestsliketoknowthehistoryofInnandthey of fright.Anaestheticsweren’tverygoodbackthen.” the tableinitsownlittleboxtostoppatientsfromseeingallbloodanddying down thechannelsandthroughthistubeintocrockeryjug.Thejugwasunder “The tableusedtoslopealittlesothatthebloodgushingfromknifewouldrun back thebedcoversandrevealedoriginaloperatingtablebeneathmattress. the oldoperatingtable”,mansaid.“I’llshowyouhowitworked.”Hepulled top ofaplatformandtoreachit,therewaslittleladderwiththreesteps.“This the light.Inmiddleofroomtherewasanarrowbedfortwothatbuilton to thechildren.Heopenedasmalldooratendofcorridorandswitchedon dropped MadamCinta’ssuitcasewithagruntoutsideherdoor,andthenbeckoned the staircasefromfoyertotheirrooms.Theporter,bentoverwitharthritis, bags totheirrooms.Trevor,ErnieandNynafollowedmeeklybehindastheyclimbed patients tobecarriedoff.Ofcoursethetrainandrailsweretakenawaylongago.” ning rightpasttheHospitalwasasteamtrainanditstoppedoutfrontfor the way.”Shepausedtoletthisunpleasantinformationsinkin.“Ohyes,andrun- stretchers tostopthemfromslidingoff,andI’mtoldthattheygroanedwithpainall on thesecondflooranditissosteepthatpatientshadtobestrappedtheir staircase,” MadamCintaexplainedtothechildren“waswayoperatingroom Inn, shepointedtoanoutsidestaircasebuiltagainstthesideofoldInn.“That time andscreamedabuseasshespeededaway. offended motoristsgotoutofthewayinnick lights andoccupyingthemiddleofroad.The the road,bargingacrossintersections,ignoringred it was!MadamCintapaidnoattentiontotherulesof while theboyssatinback.Andwhatanightmare Nyna hadtositinthefrontwithsternMadamCinta o’clock andtheafternoontrafficwasbuildingup.Little and thechildren’sbagsintoboot,itwaspastfour time JamesonhadloadedMadam’selegantluggage any kindandcertainlynotblood-drippingones. before sheevengotthereandErniedidn’tlikeghostsof bled, “butIdon’tscareeasy.”LittleNynawasscared or washavingajoke.“Tryingtoscareus,”Trevormum- know whetherMadamCintawastryingtofrightenthem stories ofbloodiedghostsandscreams,theydidn’t them tospendthenightatHospiceInnwithallits ture —anightathauntedhotel! Cinta, hasdecidedtotaketheboysandErnie’slittlesister,Nyna,forabizarreadven- boy TrevorisinBarbadosvisitinghiscousinErnie.Theirstrangeoldaunt,Madam Madam Cintaordereddinnerinthedownstairsdiningroomwheredodderyold Little Nynawasparalyzedwithfear,Erniefeltthatheabouttobesickand Madam Cintastrodeofftothereceptiondesk,tellingafrail,oldportercarry When MadamCintapulledupinfrontoftheHospice Now, MadamCintahadabigoldCadillacandbythe When MadamCintatoldTrevor,ErnieandhislittlesisterNynathatshewastaking In PartOneofthisstory,publishedinlastmonth’s name of described byBritishnaturalist,AndrewSmith,in1829,hegaveitthescientific of thisshark’stailfinismuchlongerthanthebottomhalf. dontidae family.Whatisit? belongs totheorderoforectolobiformesandisonlyspeciesinrhinco- formally declaredthat in thesameyear,InternationalCommission onZoologicalNomenclature(ICZN) ‘snout teeth’.The1984catalogue, Rhincodon typus more than300rowsoftinyteethintheshark’smouth.Later,namechangedto because mostofthemhavedistinctive patterns ontheirskin.Ourparticular through largesieve-likeplatesinitsmouth. eats mostlyplanktonandsmallaquaticcreatures whichitfiltersfromthewater clues. Despiteitsthousandsofteeth,the sharkdoesn’tusethemforfeeding.It The tale of the shark’s generic name is quite interesting. When the shark was first The taleoftheshark’sgenericnameisquiteinteresting.Whensharkwasfirst The name‘orectolobiforme’means‘havingalengthenedtaillobe’.toppart This month,we’regoingtotakeacloserlookatoneparticularshark.It The sharksoftheorderOrectolobiformes arealsocalledcarpetsharks But westillhaven’tidentifiedthisparticular shark.Let’sgiveyousomemore DOLLY’S DEEP a Rhiniodon typus n d H e m l by ElaineOllivierre l SECRETS y o

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a y . Compass , uses the original name but, , usestheoriginalnamebut, Trevor and , theSt.Lucianschool- Ernie Get Spooked! CRUISING KIDS’CORNER by LeeKessell Part Two believe whattheywanttoandnotthinkarealwaysthebest.” going toboastaboutourghostsinSt.Luciaeveragain.Ithinkthatpeopleshould — theterriblenightonoperatingtablebedinoldHospiceInn. dripping ghostsandphantomtrainsthatmemorywouldstaywiththemforever a secretevenfromUncleSolly,buttheyknewthathadseenandheardblood answered, “No,wesleptlikelogs.”MadamCintaraisedhereyebrow. find TrevorandErnieonherbed,sosheshookthemroughly. screamed andtheirholloweyesfilledwithluminousgreentears. severed legsandarms.Blooddrippedfromtheirwoundsblackmouths dragged themselvesabouttheoperatingtable,groaningandsighingwavingtheir leapt likespritesacrosstoNynawhowassoundasleepinherbed.Paleghosts to getoffthistablebeforetheycutusup!” room. Suddenlythedoortotheirroomcreakedopen. the injuredgrewlouderandasstretcher-bearersnearedoperating heavy stretcherswerepulledandpusheduptheoutsidestaircase.Thegroansfrom was ashufflingandscrapingfrombelowsomewherethenthedraggingoffeetas he managedtocatchit,formedawhitemistintheairofnowicecoldroom.There the inn,andthenitcametoashudderingclangingstop.Trevor’sbreath,when its whistlewithapiercingshriekandthunderedstraightthroughthelowerhalfof what theycould,TrevorandErniesatwithNynaonherlittlebedunderthewindow, could shineinandtheycertainlylefttheirownlighton.Satisfiedthathaddone it butdoastheyweretold.Theyleftthedooropensothatlightfromlanding them, “sodon’tcomebangingonmydoorifyougetscared.” they weresentuptobed.“Idon’tlikebedisturbedonceI’masleep,”shewarned specimens measureover40feetinlengthandtheycanlivefor70years. divers havebeenknowntoswimalongsidethesegentlegiants. distances throughtheworld’stropicaloceans.Thesesharksarequiteplacidand a veryfastswimmer,averagingonlyfewkilometresanhourbutittravelsgreat stripes onitsbackandsides.Ithasthreedistinctridgesalongback.isnot shark hasagreybodywithwhitebelly,andpatternofyellowspots Did youguessitcorrectly? THE “Right on!”agreedErniewithrelief. “You know,Ernie,”Trevorwhisperedtohiscousinthatnightinbed,“I’mnever END On thedrivehomethatday,TrevorandErnieagreedtokeeptheirnightofhorrors When MadamCintaaskedTrevorandErnieifghostshadkeptthemawake, Now getdressed,Iwantmybreakfast.” “What areyouandErniedoingonmybed?Getoff!” “What? What?”Trevorblinkedhiseyes,surprisedtofindhimselfstillalive. Nyna wokeupwhenthebrightsunshoneintoroomandshewassurprisedto Trevor andErniefainteddeadaway. The boysjumpedtogetherandtheyheardtheirfeetsplashintorunningooze.They “Jump,Erniejump!”Trevorcamealivewithagreatburstofwillpower.“We’vegot Going tothatghostlyroomfilledevenTrevorwithdread,buttherewasnothingfor So whatisit? Join thedotstoseeshark. And that’sthelastclue.Thisisbiggestfishinworld!Thelargest Rhincodon typus already. Itcertainlywokeuptheghosttrainthatblew thought itwouldwakethedeadiftheyweren’tawake to hiscousinandheartthumpedsoloudlyhe as hisheartalmostleaptoutofchest.Trevorclung uid intothejugbeneaththem. mattress andtheycouldheartheslowrunningofliq- from fallingoff.Agurglingnoisecameunderthe The bedtiltedandtheboysclungtoeachotherkeep and draggingfootstepssoundedalongthecorridor. with aterriblebang.Thelightintheirroomwentout up withahugefrightwhentheirdoorslammedshut but sometimeduringthenightTrevorandErniewoke sheet andfacedthewall.Somehowtheyallfellasleep, table bedwhileNynasnuggleddeepdownunderthe and Erniewereforcedtoretreattheiroperating couldn’t keeptheireyesopenanylongerandTrevor cloudy sky.Theytoldeachotherstoriesuntilthey the curtainpulledbacktoletinpalelightfroma “Oh Trevor,it’sblood,Icansmellit.”Erniegasped ismorecommonlyknownasthe whale shark .

FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 Seagrass provides an Seagrass provides an Roped-off areas designated group (STCB) has joined group (STCB) has joined with others in establishing protected areas with an in- water system of buoys and lines. important food source for Bonaire’s juvenile green turtles. Lac Bay’s seagrass beds also provide shelter, food and oxygen for other marine life, ranging from microorgan- isms to fish, crabs, shrimp and queen conch. Seagrass roots in the near-shore beds prevent sand from eroding. Areas with dense seagrass bottoms have been in jeop- ardy in Lac Bay due to heavy recreational use there. The line-and-buoy boundaries are visual markers to warn bay users of the seagrass beds below the surface. by buoys are now located in the heavy-traffic windsurfer area in front of Jibe City and around the point to the wind- surfing competition area. Bonaire Group Protects Seagrass Beds Bonaire Group beds in Lac protect the vital seagrass In a move to STCB is being joined in this project by Progressive tion of critical habitat,” the Trust for Public Land’s habitat,” the Trust for tion of critical Majoros Manager Mildred Ramos Puerto Rico Project coastal ensures that publicly accessible said. “It also and will are not privately developed lands and waters for boating, provide recreational areas continue to fishing.” swimming, and Bonaire the Sea Turtle Conservation Bay, Bonaire, Environment Solutions and the National Parks Foundation Bonaire. Two local businesses, Jibe City and The Windsurf Place, have joined the project as supporting partners, providing technical and financial assistance, and on-site encouragement to users to stay outside of the marked areas. Lac Bay is a critical, sensitive environment, and this project will benefit not only the sea turtles, but also Bonaire’s biodiversity in general.

hacienda “Preserving this site provides a continuous stretch of The San Miguel Natural Reserve is a mosaic of Natural Reserve is a The San Miguel Sea turtles and other creatures are now better protected in the expanded Puerto Rican coastal reserve coastal dry forests, mangroves, the confluence of two coastal dry forests, mangroves, the confluence of two rivers, and the remnants of a 19th century used for sugarcane farming. The reserve is home to 16 federally listed threatened and endangered species, including the leatherback turtle, which nests here. protected coastal shoreline, preventing the fragmenta- reserve near one of the areas hardest areas hit by the of the areas hardest areas reserve near one The land part of the island. spill on the northeastern Reserve, to the San Miguel Natural has been added land expands The purchase of this east of San Juan. to an ongoing 422 acres and contributes the reserve to Corridor, one the Northeast Ecological effort to create areas. last great unprotected of the Caribbean’s reefs, more including near-shore coral coastal habitats wetlands, beachfront, inter-tidal areas, than a mile of

that in Caribbean Net News

For more information visit www.jvdps.org. Puerto Rican Coastal Reserve Expands Puerto Rico Correspondent María Miranda Sierra Along with information previously collected, Mr. Petrovic’s third visit included the nearby islets of On his second visit, Petrovic spoke to local resident, On his second visit, Petrovic During his first visit, he identified coastal erosion, During his first visit, he identified Marine Resources Assessed in Jost van Dyke Marine Resources Assessed Society reports: The Jost van Dykes Preservation

Eco-News Caribbean Caribbean January, on the 15th anniversary of the million-gallon January, on the 15th anniversary of the million-gallon Berman Oil Spill that damaged the coastline of Puerto Rico, the US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration and various other organizations celebrated the purchase of 152 acres to expand a coastal reported last month in Petrovic’s observations will form Chapter Seven of an Petrovic’s observations will form Chapter Seven of an environmental profile, a draft of which is expected to be available for review by the end of this month. Sandy Cay, Sandy Spit, Green Cay and Diamond Cay. Sandy Cay, Sandy Spit, Green Cay and Diamond Cay. Extensive damage to the coral reefs from both bad anchoring practice and from storms was noted. An assessment of fish and other marine life present was also done. business owner and fisherman Foxy Callwood about business owner and fisherman over the last 60 years. the changes in Great Harbour the yachting industry both They discussed changes in island sloops to fiber- in the types of boats used (from increase in numbers of glass motorboats) and in the year, 7,714 boats cleared boats anchoring there. Last Immigration in Great Harbour. algal blooms and land reclamation, all of which have a algal blooms and land reclamation, environment. significant effect on the natural During November 2008, Clive Petrovic, a British Virgin During November 2008, Clive and former head of the Islands-based marine scientist at the H. Lavity Stoutt Applied Marine Studies Centre made several visits to Community College on Tortola, assessment of the coast- Jost van Dyke to conduct an that island. al and marine resources of FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 southwestcoastofIreland SailingQuarterly,pluscruisesintheGrenadines,Venezuelaand • “Streetwise1and2”givetipsthatappearedinthepopularvideo line-handlingskillseverysailorshouldknow.1hour • “StreetonKnots”demonstratestheessentialknotsand racingroundthebuoystocelebrateher80thbirthday.1hour • “AntiguaWeek’85”isthestoryofenginelessyawlIolaire fromIrelandtoAntiguaviatheCapeVerdes.2hours • “TransatlanticwithStreet”documentsasailingpassage describe ALLtheanchoragesinEasternCaribbean. places andhistory.Street’sGuidesaretheonlyonesthat piloting directions,plusinterestinganecdotesofpeople, Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuidesforinter-islandandharbor HURRICANE TIPS! GOOD GUIDESARETIMELESS Rocks don’tmove—oriftheydoareshownon www.iUniverse.com andwww.seabooks.com DVDs availableatImray,KelvinHughes,ArmchairSailor/ marine tradeguideeveryyear,whichismuchmore infrastructure, virtuallyeveryislandputsoutafree departments putoutafreeannualguideforbars, up-to-date thananyguide;similarly,thetourist at bookshops and chandleries, or from at bookshopsandchandleries,orfrom Full informationonDVDsatwww.street-iolaire.com information ontrackingandsecuringforastorm. up-to-date Imraycharts.Regardingmarine WITHOUT IT LEAVE PORT Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com. Bluewater Books,andwww.street-iolaire.com. With alltheseupdatesreadilyavailable, NEW! Street’s Guides are available Street’s Guidesareavailable Street’s guidesaretimeless. Street’s videos, first made in 1985, Street’svideos,firstmadein1985, restaurants andhotels. are now back as DVDs. arenowbackasDVDs. DON’T Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of Visitwww.street-iolaire.comforawealthof peeled, butleftwhole.Afewcabbageswereslicedinto kettle. Bunchesofgreenbananasandplantainwere were quartered,peeled,coredanddroppedintoalarge dried coconutandturmeric.First,severalbreadfruit rots, sprigsoffreshparsley,youngcallalooleaves, cucumbers, greenpapaya,onions,okra,garlic,car- plantain, greenbananas,pumpkin,cabbage,yams, watch withbeersinhand. that, butforthemostpartourmenwerecontentto help inthepreparation.Manyofwomendidjust and tendingthefire,butcruisersareinvitedto do thepreparationandcooking,includingbuilding where menpresideoverthegrill.AtOilDown, Saturday barbecuewithyourfamilyandfriends, dish. It’saneventthathasbeencomparedtoa for theafternoon.Andthenfunbegan! Cutty’s homewheresomeoftheneighborshadgathered Our destinationwasarumshopuptheroadfrom and steephillsoverlookingthesouthcoastofGrenada. and Clarke’sCourtBaywetraveledupwindingroads of St.David,Cutty’sneighborhood.FromPricklyBay buses forthejourneytovillageofLaurainparish five adventurersinsearchofagourmetfeastfilledtwo such asFishFridayinthevillageofGouyave.Twenty- ing communityforislandtoursandtaxiservicetoevents arranged byCutty,aGrenadianwellknowntothecruis- opportunity toparticipateinthefourthOilDownDay Grenada, theamazingOilDownofSpiceIsland. inch card.Suchisthetraditionofnationaldish often done“handson”,notwrittenonathree-by-five- folks passdowntherecipestonextgeneration,it’s ter thesizeofawalnut.Whenoldergenerations sticky buns:handfulsofthis,pinchesthatandbut- ThemostauthenticOilDowncontainsbounteousingredientsandiscookedoutdoorsoveranopenfire The listofingredientsseemedendless:breadfruit, Oil Down,thenationaldishofGrenada,isnotjusta On Saturday,January3rd,2009,cruisershadthe I alwaysmarveledatmygrandmother’srecipefor Oil DownDay— Grenada Style A Cook-Out, filled withslicesofuncookedturkeywingsandasmall- to theair. keeps theingredientsfromdiscoloringexposure sticky goofromalltheveggiesoffhands,andalso purpose. Theacidinthelemonjuicehelpsget lemons intothewater.Thelemonjuiceservesadual and Andy,theheadcook,squeezedjuiceofhalved “ground provisions”byGrenadians—inthekettle, top ofallthevegetables—rootcropsarecalled fresh parsleywentintothepot.Waterwaspouredon long way.Thencamesomeonionsandgarlic.Sprigsof more. Halfadozencucumberswereslicedinhalfthe one oftheguysmadeaquicktriptomarketfor which wereaddedwhole.Therewasn’tenoughokraso Stem endsandtipsweretrimmedfromtheokrapods, reduced tobite-sizedpieces,aswasagreenpapaya. chunks. Alargepumpkinwaspeeled,seededand the mix.Carrotswerescrapedbeforebeingcutinto —Continuedonnextpage the otherflavors. hot sauceisnotreallyhot,asthatwouldoverpowerall the sauces.Oneofneighborsexplainedthat was added,butIguessthereenoughflavorinall seasonings. Ithoughtitwasoddthatnosaltorpepper thing. Themeatwasadded,andalsosplashedwith Baron’s HotSauce,wereliberallysplashedonevery- soning saucesincludingketchup,creolesauceand top ofthebreadfruit.Abouthalfwaytofinish,sea- layer. Therestofthevegetableswerethenlayeredon and placedtheminthebottomofpotasbase reached intothekettle,findingslicesofbreadfruit, on threestoneswiththecookingfireunderneath. would gointothereallybigcookingpotthatrest of pigsnoutsandmaybesometails,too.Everything er bowlofwhatweallguessed,rightlyso,werepieces Someone brought out a large stainless-steel bowl Someone broughtoutalargestainless-steelbowl When allthevegetableingredientswereready,Andy by KathleenO’Brien

FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37

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Kathleen and Roland Kathleen and Roland brought to share. A few brought to share. hardy souls danced to music from the rum shop bar. Before we knew it, it was time to board the buses and head for home. What great memories we all took home with us, the food, the camaraderie, and a wonderful opportunity provided by Cutty to experience a traditional island event. It was evident from Cutty’s smiling face that he truly enjoyed sharing Oil Down with us. O’Brien are cruising the Windward Islands aboard S/V M’Lady Kathleen. Cruisers help prepare essential ingredients such as breadfruit and ‘ground provisions’ Darkness had fallen by the time the Oil Down was fallen by the time the Oil Darkness had eat another we thought we couldn’t And just when ready to serve, and we were ready to eat. Cutty and and we were ready to eat. ready to serve, around. The and passed them Andy filled plates disap- a tasty meal, and we weren’t aroma promised The liquid flavors blended together. pointed. All the No one could to make tasty gravy. had boiled down walk away hungry. cruisers had all the desserts the bite, we remembered At last, Andy and Cutty heap plates with the savory, slow-cooked meat, vegetables and dumplings Continued from previous page Continued from In the meantime, Cutty roasted a One of the cooks had been kneading By now the fire was ready, so the While all this was happening, dry coconuts had had was happening, dry coconuts While all this whole breadfruit on the edge of the fire, and when it was ready, charred and about to split open, we had samples spread with butter. Some of us had slices of ripe papaya and a taste of the coating around fresh cocoa beans. Cutty also showed us savory lemon leaves and berries containing allspice. There was plenty of time to talk to fellow cruisers and some of the neighbors, and to enjoy cold liquid refreshments from the rum shop. a mixture of flour, salt and water for dumplings. When the dough had been sufficiently worked, pieces were rolled into dumplings that resembled the small green bananas in size and shape. These were placed on top of the callaloo leaves. Coconut/turmeric water was poured over the top of everything, and the cover was put in place for the one-and-a-half to two hours of cooking. callaloo leaves were placed over the top of the mixture like a blanket to keep all the flavors in and to help with the steaming and cooking of all those goodies. It’s not surprising that it takes two men to carry that pot and place it on the stones. A piece of flat- tened corrugated tin was placed over the pot for a cover. and would be poured over the top of and would be poured over the top of the layers in the pot, after which the gratings were discarded. been opened with the blunt side of a machete, the machete, the with the blunt side of a been opened meat out, and the pieces of coconut water poured coconut, tur- water. Along with the were rinsed in of its golden called saffron because meric (locally which water into a large bowl to color) was grated water was After some stirring, the was added. turmeric, of the grated coconut and squeezed out — FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 Open Monday-Saturdayfrom10am THE SALTYDOG Restaurant &Bar, Bequia Restaurant Bequia, PortElizabeth,AdmiraltyBay Full CableTV•Sportsbar ' )% " & % ' Live MusiconWeekends Dinner Menu:SteaksandSeafood now located@formerTimberhouse ! " #$%& ' (%% for the most memorable dinner in Bequia for themostmemorabledinnerin Bequia – wherethestaffserves youwithasmile! Great SandwichMenu,Burgers Tel: (784)4573555VHFCh 68 Live LobsterPool e-mail: [email protected] Bequia, St.Vincent&theGrenadines French/Caribbean Cuisineàlacarte Restaurant &BarR Flying Fish,PhillySteak, [email protected] Dining Inside&Outside $* *'%') % *'%% %'* + Snacks, Fajita&more %%' % ') e www.caribrestaurant.com Great HarbourView Tel: (784)4573443 Sunday from6pm s t a uran • Vivier àLangoustes t & New location New location in Hamilton B

ar until lightbrownonbothsides. into 10four-inchcakes.Dipinbreadcrumbs andfry just cooked,andflake. cooked, andthenmash.Sautéorgrillthe tunauntil burgers, etcetera. and serveasacocktailsnackorwithsandwiches, Don’t overcrowdthepan.Drain,spiceasyoulike, dry withpapertowel,andfryuntilgoldenbrown. ready tofry.Heattheoil,patbreadfruitpieces as thinlypossibleandreplaceinicewateruntil water inthefridgeovernight.Slicebreadfruitpieces and iron. C intheriperfruits.Itcontainscalcium,phosphorus good sourceofVitaminB,andthereismore fat. Ithas25gramsofcarbohydrates.Breadfruitisa ries, twogramsofproteinandlessthanonegram fire —delicious. are breadfruitthathavebeenroastedoveranopen looking globesbeingsoldbytheroadside.These Soft, slightlyoverripefruitisbestforfryingaschips. dried andmadeintoflourasasubstituteforwheat. to createapudding.InBarbados,breadfruithasbeen fruits canbemixedwithcoconutmilk,saltandsugar rolled inflourandfried.Thepulpfromveryripebread- quartered andsteamedwithseasoningsoritmaybe steamed, boiled,roasted,orfried.Ripefruitsmaybe bles tomakeatypeofchowder.Breadfruitcanbe chunked andboiledwithseasoningsothervegeta- brown whenitisfullyripe.Unripebreadfruitcanbe green, turningyellowishgreenasitripenstoayellow be consumedbeforeitripens.Unripefruitisusually Cooked breadfruitfreezesexcellently.Breadfruitmay used assandpaper. from theinnerbark.Theroughskinoffruitcanbe even smallboats.Pacificislandersmakeacloth( fruit treecanbeusedtobuildhouses,furniture,and at firstrefusedtoconsumeit! islands, theslavesdidn’tlikeunfamiliartasteand lems, whenthetreesfinallyreachedCaribbean the breadfruittreesgotwatered.Afterallprob- sailors didn’tenjoythethoughtofgoingthirstywhile just thebeautifulTahitianwomen,butbreadfruit!The cause ofthefamousmutinyon different typestoSt.VincentandJamaica.Thereal years later,Blighdeliveredtwothousandtreesoffive fruit treesfromTahititotheCaribbeanin1787.Six failed onhisfirstattempttocarryathousandbread- from thePhilippinestoMartiniquein1772.Bligh Bligh, aFrenchsailor,Sonnerat,firstbroughtseeds into theCaribbeanisgiventofamousCaptain to cost-effectivelyfeedtheirslavelabor. about 1600andquicklyrealizeditsnutritionalvalue AD. Europeanexplorersfirstencounteredbreadfruit fruit farandwide,bringingittoHawaiiaround1100 feeling likefreshbread.Polynesiansailorsspreadthe could beeatenbeforeitisripe,supposedlytastingand acquired itsnamebecauseexplorersfoundthefruit are grownonmostoftheCaribbeanislands.Thetree hundred feet.Boththeseededandseedlessvarieties Ocean. Itisthefruitofabeautifultreethatgrowsto the cook,andnowbreadfruitisaregularonmytable. and tastystarchtoaddmygalleyrecipes,Iquizzed in Grenada.Realizingthatitwasanotherinexpensive first tasteditcookedasoildown(pronounced“dong”) breadfruit ischoosingonethathasn’tover-ripened.I ing brownmarks,andthehardestpartofcooking not anattractivefruit,offshadeofgreenoftenbear- BREADFRUIT THE BOUNTIFUL Mix allingredientsexcepttheoilandbreadcrumbs Peel andcorethebreadfruit,boilor steam until oil forfrying 1 Cupbreadcrumbs salt andspicetotaste 2 clovesgarlic,minced 1 largeonion,chopped 1 egg,beaten 1 poundfreshtuna(cannedcanbeused) half ofasoftbreadfruit Breadfruit TunaCakes Scrub, peelandcorethefruit.Putpiecesinice salt andspicestotaste vegetable oilforfrying(suchascanola) ice cubes 1 greenbreadfruit Two-Day BreadfruitCrisps An averagebreadfruithasaboutahundredcalo- On someislands,you’llseeblackened,charred- A nice-sizedbreadfruitweighstwotothreepounds. Aside fromhavingediblefruit,thewoodofbread- Although creditforimportingthebreadfruittrees Breadfruit originatedinMicronesiathePacific Breadfruit isaCaribbeanislandmainstayfood.It’s SERVING ATSEABYSHIRLEYHALL HMS Bounty wasn’t tapa ) congeal orthickenthelatexforexportmarkets. latex. Jamaicanspartiallyroasttheir breadfruit to breadfruit treeincludingthefruitare rich inmilky merged inwateruntiltheyareneeded.All partsofthe week ofpicking.Jamaicanskeepexcess fruitsub- and easilybruised.Thefruitmustbeused withina ants areenemiesofthesetrees.Breadfruit isfragile should bearfruitinaboutfiveyears.Mealy bugsand partially shadedandwatereddaily.These suckertrees a suckeroftheseedlessbreadfruitvariety. Itshouldbe tolerant ofthesaltyseasideenvironment.Transplant while othersthriveonsandycoralsoils.Onevarietyis world. SomePacificislandvarietiesgrowalongrivers various climateandsoilconditionsthroughoutthe well-drained soil.Howeverbreadfruithasadaptedto oven forhalfanhour. with sugar,butterandlemonjuice.Bakeina350°F canola oil.Placetheslicesinlayers,coatingeachlayer one-half inchthick.Greaseabakingdishwiththe a potofwater.Slicethefruitinhalf,coreitandslice or cold. stirring constantly,untileggsarecooked.Servewarm with remainingingredients;blendwell.Heatthrough, grated cheeseandspices.Bakeat350°for40minutes. it firm.Placemixtureinanovendishandtopwith grated carrot,andcelerywithjustenoughmilktokeep brush thefruitwithbutteroroil.Servehot. in a350°Fovenfor40minutes.Everytenminutes the outsideoffruitwithbutterorcanolaoil.Bake stuff thefruitwithminced-meatmixture.Brush tomato andspices.Peelcorethebreadfruit.Then Fry onions,garlic,chivesandmincedmeat,thenadd water. Itwillnotbefullycooked.Setasidetocoolabit. Breadfruit needsspacetogrowanddeep,fertile, For theGardener Peel breadfruit,leavewhole,andsimmeronehourin 1/4 Cuplemonjuice 4 Tablespoonsbutter 1/2 Cupbrownsugar 1 Tablespooncanolaoil 1 largeripebreadfruit Candied Breadfruit Peel, core,chunkandboilbreadfruit.Mashmix 2 Tablespoonsbrandy(optional) spices totaste(e.g.cinnamon,clovesandnutmeg) 1/4 Cupbrownsugar 2 eggsbeaten 2 Tablespoonsbutter One well-ripenedbreadfruit Simple BreadfruitDessert Boil thebreadfruitchunksandmash.Addonion, 1/2 Cupmilk(approximately) 1 Cupgratedcheddarcheese 1 stalkofcelery,chopped 1 carrot,grated 1 mediumonion,chopped One breadfruitpeeled,coredandchunked Breadfruit Pie Boil thebreadfruitintactfortenminutesinsalted salt andspicestotaste 1 Tablespoonbutterorcanolaoil 1 bunchchives 1 mediumtomato,chopped 2 clovesgarlic,minced 1 largeonion,chopped 1 poundmincedbeef,chickenorfish 1 wholebreadfruit Baked StuffedBreadfruit FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 , PM - 6 AM aradise. Call 784-488-8407 , Lunch is served 11:00 ine foods in P There is nothing general about Basil’s Call 784-488-8407 AM Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named one of the Call 784-457-2713 Imagine, decorating your home with Antiques from Bali and Fabrics as bright as the sea and as light as air... perfect for island as bright as the sea and as light as air... Fabrics efficiently arranged. Basil’s Bar the island. WE SHIP AROUND THE WORLD! In St Vincent - near the port of Kingstown is an 18th century In St Vincent

www.basilsbar.com [email protected] www.basilsbar.com Visit Basil’s in Mustique or St. Vincent Basil’s in Mustique Visit Mustique

Dinner at 7:30 until late. Come to Basil’s for Cocktails anytime and plan to attend the night Jump up and BBQ. Call 784-488-8350 or VHF 68. Wednesday BOUTIQUE BASIL’S plus lots women, men and children, For island evening and playful day wear. Elegant joy. Boutique also offers silver and gemstone jewelry. home. Basil’s to take of T-shirts STORE: GENERAL GREAT BASIL’S wines, cheeses from Europe, with fine French Great General Store - stocked sauces and gourmet jams. Imported cigars. F FOREVER: ACROSS has India - contemporary pieces and fabulous lighting. Across Forever a magnificent collection of furniture and home accessories from Asia. Shipping is easily and Visitors to St Vincent are invited to: to St Vincent Visitors BAR: BASIL’S Air conditioned, and Bar. cobblestone building where you may find Basil’s Restaurant you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, the staff most welcoming and the meals, some of the best on Visitors to Mustique are invited to: Visitors BAR AND RESTAURANT: BASIL’S in 1987 by Newsweek magazine and today lives up to that tradi- Best Bars Ten World’s renovated the new face of Basil’s Bar in Mustique is all that and more tion. Recently lunches and break- Terrific offering the freshest seafood, steaks and pastas for dinner. fasts. Now equipped with WIFI you can enjoy sunset cocktails and catch up on the web. January 21 - February Basil’s Bar is home and originator of the Mustique Blues Festival, 4, 2009. Breakfast service begins at 8:00

Fork it – let’s get out the pot and have a party! es fd d gtbl In a small saucepan, add all ingredi- The etiquette for this type of dining is The mix and match method of trying Don’t hesitate to use commercially Ginger Soy Dipping Sauce 1/2 Cup soy sauce 1/4 Cup dry white wine 1 clove garlic, minced 1 Tablespoon honey or sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 3 Tablespoons chopped fresh ginger root Dipping sauces are a wonderful part Dipping sauces are a wonderful his own Each guest should have ents and simmer over medium heat, stirring often. Bring to the boil and remove from heat. Strain and use for dipping beef, pork or chicken. Enjoy. seafood and vegetables, a dinner plate, and various small dishes of dipping sauces. Hot crusty French bread or rolls are also a necessity. Allow about one-half pound of meat per person. quite simple. Carefully impale the meat or vegetable you wish to cook upon your fork. The first time is quite easy. The second time requires more dexter- ity as the end of the fork will be extremely hot from the oil. Place your fork into the pot and let the meat fry for one or two minutes. Gently check its doneness, being careful not to knock another guest’s meat from his fork. Remove the cooked morsel to your plate and then spear a second piece to cook while you eat the first. various sauces with various meat or vegetables you cook brings remarkable taste sensations. Expect lots of laughs from this great way to dine with new or normally stodgy guests. A plate of fresh fruit with or without a chocolate fondue makes a perfect, easy dessert. At the end of the meal you will probably feel as if you were a kid again, cooking wieners around the campfire. Try a fondue. It’s fun, entertaining and a very social way to mix food and friends. prepared sauces for fondues. There are many good ones on the market now. Hot Thai and peanut sauces are just two of these great time-savers. Here is a quick and easy sauce you can make yourself. guisher close at hand. Remember, it is guisher close at hand. Remember, and care hot oil cooking you are using coverings must be exercised. Table lace cloth should not be your very best picnic type, or the plastic (i.e. meltable) can and do because drips and spills a mess of a occur. Hot forks can make plastic cloth or place mat. hot and of fondue fare. Make some tangy. spicy and others sweet and long- colour-coded (for easy identity) supply of handled fondue fork. A large cloth ones paper napkins or substantial is also a good idea. Add to this, each person’s own supply of raw meat or l — to consists fondre fondue au fromage

th t f d h

No matter which type of fondue you The most decadent of all fondues A classic Forks bearing pieces of raw meat, Fondue cooking was new to me then. Fondue pots are again back in vogue.Fondue pots are again back plan, the emphasis is on fun and enjoyment. The meal usually takes the better part of a couple of hours. Appetizers and salad can be served while the fondue pot is heating merrily in the centre of the table. I am a cautious individual and always have a small fire extin- involves rich, melted chocolate, cream and possibly a liqueur into which impaled fresh fruit or chunks of pound cake are immersed. Both cheese and chocolate fondues can be heated sufficiently with a chafing candle. of Swiss Gruyère or Emmental cheese melted in combination with white wine, kirsch and seasonings. Small, bite- sized chunks of French bread are forked into the hot savoury mixture and eaten while still hot and gooey. vegetables or seafood are thrust into either hot oil or broth and left to cook to the liking of the “forkee”. The deep bowl-shaped pot is heated by electricity or the flame of an alcohol burner. Electric fondues are more reliable and less hazardous. On board, use a metal tray to hold the fondue pot in case of spills. A good, tender cut of meat should be used for fondues, as it is seared in hot oil and is best eaten slightly rare. melt, the term fondue has several melt, the term fondue has several meanings and does not pertain just to an entrée. Most fondue parties involve guests seated around a heated fondue pot in the centre of a table. Ideally four people can use one cooking pot. For larger groups, increase the number of pots. For best results, the hot oil must be kept at a temperature of close to 380°F (200°C). Broth fondues are kept close to boiling temperature. Remember, too many forks can spoil the broth or oil by lowering the temperature, thus retarding cooking. Good quality vegetable oil with a high smoke point is best. Canola, peanut or safflower oil works well. Olive oil should be avoided.

From the French word FONDUE only findLike slow cookers, you could or so agothem at flea markets a year utensilsbut now these unique cooking many smallare front and centre in matter if youappliance departments. No ashore, aare entertaining onboard or for fondue provides the opportunity and joy- good food, great entertainment table. Iful conversation around a dining parties inhave fond memories of fondue quan- the late 1960s and ’70s. Copious intities of wine were often consumed adding, nothe course of the meal, the evening. doubt, to the informality of OF MEMORIES MEMORIES FOND FOND FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 YAMAHA GRENADA W.I. TRUE BLUE,ST.GEORGE’S, McIntyre Bros.Ltd. TOURS &CRUISES-CARJEEPRENTAL hammocks+more wooden-ware jewelry, rare exoticarts+crafts young streetst.george's 48 years,44withLloyds,andmyclaims I havebeenintheinsurancebusiness email: [email protected] or e-mail:[email protected] PHONE: (473)4443944/1555 just stepsfromthecarenage Iolaire Enterprises(353)28-33927 settlement recordcannotbebeat. [email protected] tel: (473)440-2310 unique giftsforyourboat, “I’ll domybesttominimizeyourincrease!” Outboard Engines2HP-250HP Thereisgoodinsurance,therecheap your insuranceisuntilyouhaveaclaim. Rather, thehonestbrokercanonlysay, No longercanbrokerstalkoflowrates. Duty-Free EnginesforYachts insurance,butthereisnogoodcheap The insurancebusinesshaschanged. insurance. Youneverknowhowgood FAX: (473)4442899 Parts -RepairsService www.street-iolaire.com Then,iftheclaimisdenied Insurance home +friends or unsatisfactorilysettled, Fax DMStreet Marine it istoolate. grenada Dear Boston, Massachusetts Nanny Cay,Tortola Norman Martin Best regards, days. TimeformetocollectthebooksbyCaldwell. was fun. Only arealsailingcharactercouldhandlethejob.It were complicated,requiringconstantmaintenance. spend afewdaysexploringanisland.Also,theboats Our gueststooktimetosail.Theyalso deplete theirownfishinggrounds. course, itistheircountryandtheyhave arightto is notsurprisingthatthereefsaredevoid offish.Of pening sincethemid-1990s,whenwewere there,soit using nets,scubagear,etcetera.Thishas beenhap- literally vacuumedoutthereefsoffish andlobsters, come outtotheoffshoreRoquesandAves islandsand in theCaribbean. being responsibleforthedestructionoflife onthereefs oughly beforeheaccusesMediterraneanyachtsmenof spearfishing, heshouldperhapsinvestigatemorethor- December 2008]thatvisitingyachtsmenshouldnotbe introduced theJohnsonsaboard son, “theCommodore”.IamtoldthattheTompkins Gwen Tompkins.IsailedmanyseamilesforGwen’s had timetolearnfromtheCaldwells. Voyage Fong job. IlearneditwellandthankCaptainJordan very long“todo”list.Nocomplaints—thatwasthe either. Asmate,Iwasusuallyonanchorwatchwitha Mates didnothavemuchtimetochatwiththeguests, famous MikeBurkeandIrvingJohnson. true. Atdifferenttimestheskipperhadsailedfor ters andstories.CaptainJordanknewthemall. Caribbean waswellstockedwithinterestingcharac- stories asretoldbyCaptainJordan.Inthosedays,the though Idon’trecallitspecifically. per knewtheCaldwells.ImayhavemetCaldwells have agreattimeatthelittlethatchedbar.Theskip- people importanttotheCaribbeanstory. over toPalmIsland.Heconsideredtheplaceand Fong 1970 and1971,Iwasmateonthe70-footschooner Dear example, Idoubtwefueled changed sailorsasmuchitisschedules.For tions, Idon’thavetheirpresence. women. Evenwithmyrootsbackinthoseoldtradi- of long-sufferingseagoingwives. Had itbeenso,MegWhite’snamewouldbeonthelist she alwayswishedtheinvitationhadbeenaccepted. shore-based sailor(andadarngoodone,too).Iknow Grandmother putherfootdown.Mothergrewupa Yankee when GrandfatherWhitewasinvitedtomoveaboard White andJohnsonstorybeganinthelate1920s mony. Asalittlekid,theseatalesweremagic.The at theWhites’house.Theywerereadwithgreatcere- Cod. Foryears,lettersfromtheJohnsonswouldarrive mother’s parents,NormanandMegWhitefromCape Douglas in Mary’s Voyage FFORUM RREADERS' Thanks forthereviewandcommentsaboutold For manyyears,largeVenezuelanfishing boatshave Although IagreewithTimSadler[Readers’sForum, Interesting thatDeymentionsExyJohnsonand Fact is,Ididn’tgetashoreverymuchthatseason. He hadlotsofstories,somewhichmayhavebeen I certainlyheardsomeCaldwellandPalmIsland The skipperandchartererswouldgoashore Few do.Idon’tthinkitistheplasticboatsthathave I misstheoldhands.Theywereremarkablemenand Maybe. TheJohnsonsweregreatfriendswithmy Further toRichardDey’sreviewofthememoir fortrainingmewell.Dey’sreviewof . Myskipper,LaurieJordan,alwaystookcharters O E Compass Compass remindsmeofsomewhatImissed.Wish withhisnewwifeandmymom,but R A Caribbean Compass U D , , byMaryCaldwellandMatthewM. M E R S So Fong '

ofDecember2008.In Wander Bird twicethatseason. . Mary’s So So Dear Yacht TigerLilyII Arleen Webster well asover-fishing. warming, changesinweatherpatterns,etcetera,as include increaseofoceantemperatures,global more potentcausesforfishdepletion.Thesewould the reef. cruisers ofvariousnationalitiesbusilyspearfishingon anchored onthenorthsideofCarriacouwe’veseen are theonlyoneswhobreakorbendrules.While is atdusk. dusk isfishfeedingtime.Thus,thebesttimetohunt who knowanythingaboutfishbehaviourthat local markets! sauté pan!AndyetIhaveoftenseenthesefishinthe having asoft-fleshedparrotfishorangelfishtouchhis that noself-respectingFrenchmanwouldeventhinkof ture evenvaguelyedible”,Iwouldventuretoguess ner. Astothecommentaboutthem“killinganycrea- to catchjustoneortwosmallsnappersfortheirdin- time andexertingalotofeffortintheprocess. spend alongtimeinthewater,killingfishoneat —Continuedonnextpage and tolerablemotionofpitch. ing mostroll;transformingitintothemore dampened be adjustedtohavethemmeetthebow and eliminat- angle atwhichtheboattakesoncoming seasmay to theanchorrode,andadjustingtheir length,the problem fordecades. cruisers havebeenutilizingasolution to thisrolling into themotionofboat.Delivery skippers and different anglethanthewind,inducingexcessiveroll would penalizeananchoragewithseascomingfroma useful indeed. An objectivemethodtocompareharbourswouldbe [ Dear Yacht TiKanot Chris Doyle us. Giveitatry:https://www.eseaclear.com/ a computer.WitheSeaClear,itisautomaticforbothof take allthoseformsyoufillinandenterthedatainto a hugeboontoCustoms,whoatthismomenthave you nowdoyourentryinMartinique). ers forthosethatdonothavetheirown.(Thisishow could beequippedwithoneortwocustomercomput- could useaninternetcafé,ortheCustomsstations board. Icanseetwosolutionshere—theskipper to theeSeaClearinternetpage. tually beequippedwithWiFistationsfreeaccess plan forthissystemisthatCustomsofficeswilleven- rently haveeasilyavailableinternetaccess.Partofthe you arriveat),changetheformandresendit. soon asyoucangetontheinternet(maybeatport happens andyouneedtogodirectSt.Lucia.Well,as you clearfromGrenadatoSt.Vincentthensomething sailing plans.Itshouldn’tbeabigdeal.Forexample, present system. offices byhalf.Thisisnotgoingtohappenunderthe of thiswecouldcutdownourvisitstoCustoms could notbeautomatic.IfwecanpersuadeCustoms the systemisupandrunning,departurepart your fees.Butthereisnotechnicalreasonwhy,when print outthepaperandstampit,aswellpaying number, whichisevidenceyouhavedonetheentry. one entry.Whenyoudoyourentry,receivea clearance fromSt.Lucia,soyouwilldobothbitson correctly, theentryintoSt.Vincentwillalsobeyour sailing fromSt.LuciatoVincent,ifIunderstandit future time.Intheexpandedphase,whenyouare information aboutcrewwhoareleavingtoreturnata easily changethesedetails,addcrewdetailsandstore in thesameinformationtimeandagain.Youcan your boatandcrewdetails,soyoudonotneedtofill Grenadines willsoonbeonline. clearance. Thatwillsoonchange,asSt.Vincent&the countries totheother,youcanonlyuseitforinward expands, unlessyouareclearingfromoneofthese Kitts &NevisandtheBVI.Thismeansthatuntilit it workingreallywell. Customs peopleknowwhatwethink,sotheycanget welcome theopportunitytogiveitatryandlet this willbethesystemforfuture,soweshould [electronic Customsclearanceform]system.Ithink issues, manycruisershavenowtriedtheeSeaClear January 2009,December2008andseveralother Caribbean Compass As wehaveseenfromlettersto A cursoryreadofscientificstudieswouldprovide Please don’tassumethatthe“Mediterranean”types As totheissueofspearfishingatdusk—people I haveseenFrenchboatersspendhoursinthewater On theotherhand,mostFrenchspearfishermen By fixingsnubberlinesfromboththebow ANDstern However, hisplacementofthesensingequipment I foundMr.Dorsett’sAnchorageRatingSystem This systemisnotonlygoingtobeaboonforus,but Then therearethosethatdonothavecomputerson There istheproblemthatnotallCustomsportscur- One criticismnotedwasinthecaseofachange Yes, youwillstillhavetovisitCustomsandletthem Let meoutlinetheadvantages:Thesystemstores The systeminitsinitialtrialwasforSt.Lucia, Compass Compass , , , January2009]quiteinteresting. Compass inthe FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 LTD INE DISTRIBUTOR R P.O. Box 17, Kingstown opposite Howard’s Marine PAIE E-mail: [email protected] Located CALLIAQUA, St. Vincent AMAHA MA Y TEL: (784) 457 1806 FAX: (784) 456 1364 KMRN ENGINES (DUTY FREE PRICES) SPARES SERVICE MARINE EQUIPMENT

. These clear- GUY DEAN PM . Your facilities are most impressive. . Your facilities Readers, we were told to leave at 10:00 Compass Tiger Lily II PM Instructions for departure provided by the Trinidad departure provided by the Instructions for The incident, however, which finalized our decision The incident, however, which for your atten- Minister, I provide this information We want to hear from YOU! Please include your name, boat name or shoreside We do not publish individual consumer complaints or Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair Send your letters to: [email protected] or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ Bequia St. Vincent & the Grenadines and so onerous with officials has become However, dealing be returning. that we will not at the and Excise officials & Tobago Customs contradic- boarding station were both Chaguaramas committed to My wife and I are tory and confusing. that the regulations of the countries complying with visits to the However, after three we visit as guests. clearance, at office to obtain outbound Chaguaramas 9:00 ance procedures, of course, are determined by the ance procedures, of course, concerned and nervous clearing official. We were most Boca in the dark because about departing through the in that area over the past of several incidents of piracy few months. what we viewed as the not to return to Trinidad, was the two Customs officials unprofessional conduct of about my name and who made derogatory comments is that?” Such rude com- asked, “What kind of a name be expected from governments are not what might ment officials. tion and action. Denis Webster Yacht Tiger Lily II Dear address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. play.

Tiger Lily staff and Compass . I’d like to suggest Compass , , , Sol Patrol Compass Compass Compass Continued from previous page Continued from We have made many visits to your country since We have just recently departed your country and Best wishes and fair winds to all But to get back to boating, the chartmakers Imray In return, they asked us to pass on our report of I travelled via LIAT airlines this time, rather than by Thanks for all the cruising-kitty-stretching tips in Thanks for all the cruising-kitty-stretching We would like to report great service from the folks A two-week trip in December 2008 through the If I ever happen upon Mr. Dorsett, I would love to upon Mr. Dorsett, I would If I ever happen (As bipeds, humans pitch slightly during the act of pitch slightly during (As bipeds, humans 1994, but I fear this will be our last. We have always enjoyed the people of Trinidad & Tobago and the many sights of the islands, while sailing our yachts wish to bring to your attention a matter of concern to my wife and I. are in the process of electronically re-drawing the following Imray-Iolaire charts: B4 Tobago, B30 St. Vincent, Bequia and Mustique, B31 Bequia to Carriacou, and B4 Barbados. It would be greatly appreciated if owners of these current charts would examine them front and back, and report any correc- tions or suggestions to [email protected], s. [email protected], fax 011 (353) 283-3927 or D.M. Street, Rock Cottage, Glandore, County Cork, Republic of Ireland. Many thanks, Don Street Yacht Iolaire Open Letter to the Ministry of Tourism Republic of Trinidad & Tobago Dear Minister, their great service. So we have — they were delightful their great service. So we have — they were delightful to deal with! sailboat. LIAT used to be an inexpensive way to travel, today it is not. But LIAT is the same in that they’ve stayed true to one of their nicknames: “Leave Islands at Any Time”. I won’t bother you with the gory details, but after arriving at the airport in Antigua at 0700 we landed in St. Maarten, with a plane change, at 1500. After arriving at the St. Maarten airport at 0615 for an 0700 departure to Grenada, I had two plane changes and six passages through security, and finally arrived in Grenada at 1600 — minus my mobile phone, lost somewhere in security. From Grenada, an 0700 scheduled departure, plane switch in Barbados, arrival in St Lucia 1800. Scheduled departure from St. Lucia 1300; arrived Antigua 1730. On the other hand, the nickname “Luggage In Another Terminal” seems no longer true. They did not lose or delay my bag even once. the January issue of who make the WASI Powerball Anchor Connector. We have one of these fitted and recently opted for new set- screws to ensure that the connector remained properly assembled. Having ascertained that the Caribbean retailer from whom we bought the connector does not carry the spares, we e-mailed WASI in Germany. They immediately volunteered to send us new set-screws with no charge. The package reached our UK address (they preferred to use that rather than ship across the Atlantic) a few days later. They were also careful to point out that the whole connector should be inspect- ed and maintained regularly. Leeward and Windward Islands showed me that since my last visit a few years ago some things have changed, others have not. entertain a discussion on how a simple, inexpensive on how a simple, entertain a discussion an effective could be fashioned into accelerometer a useful tool Perhaps we could provide sensing device. everywhere. quiet nights for sailors to provide those Kevin L. Hughes S/V Windigo III Dear in the tropics: solar another one suitable for boats compact, portable, collaps- cooking. Various types of ovens are available, or you ible and lightweight solar Basically, a solar oven can easily make one yourself. panels or a box that sur- consists of a set of reflective the sun’s rays rounds a cooking pot and concentrates ovens commonly reach to cooking temperatures. Solar to upper 200°Fs, making temperatures in the mid- slow-cooked stews, rice them especially suitable for can also be used for drying and beans, etcetera. They water. Set one out fruit, baking bread and sterilizing the work. A basic “CooKit” on deck, and let the sun do is just US$25. There from Solar Cookers International cookers, including roast- are many other types of solar also available. For more ers, and solar cookbooks are information about buying, making and using solar cookers, visit www.solarcookers.org. Sign me, Ray on Dear readers. Peter & Robbie Nuttycombe S/Y PR2 Dear walking, so we are much more used to it than the are much more used to walking, so we side-to-side rolling.) uncomfortable — FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 use thisemailaddress: If youwouldlikemoreinformationaboutthisjoborsendyourCVtous,please Anyone withaninterestiswelcometoapply. have apositivedispositiontolifethiscouldbeyourDREAMjob. This isaFUNjobwithgreatearningpotential.Ifyouarewillingtoworkhardand We offer fulltrainingonsiteintheCaribbean. Dive master/instructorforeithertheCaptainand/orChefisaplus. Chef/Hostess withabasicunderstandingofcooking. licence. Requirements: CaptainwithaSkipper’s between CaptainandChefthemoresuccessfulyourcharterswillbe. The natureofthejobissuchthatbetterunderstandingandteamwork We prefercouplesthataremarriedORhavebeenlivingtogetherforatleastayear. We arelookingforcrew, mainlyteamsintheformofaCaptainandChef/Hostess. 2 92GadBnsTw,Casc tm odLhas $160,000 $99,500 42’ 1992GrandBanksTrwl,Classic,3 strm, FordLehmans $129,900 42’ 1983PresentSundeck,AP, Washer/dryer $56,000 39’ 1998MainshipTrawler,Yanmardiesels, A/C,Genset $27,000 27’ 1989MakoCC,200HPYamaha’s,T-Top 27’ 2005Bayliner265,AC,Sleeps4,low eng.hrs $180,000 $119,000 49’ 1975TranspacificKetch,bluewatercruiser,3strms $35,000 41’ 1985C&Racer/Cruiserinexcellentcondition $79,000 37’ 1978EndeavourSloop,wellequipped,hauled 37’ 1978TayanaCutter,Wellbuilt,canoestern Call, faxorvisitourwebsitefor acompletelistofboatsforsale ST. THOMAS YACHTSALES Genset, A/C,newpaint 36’ 1980AlbinTrawler Twin FordLehman’s Tel. StVincent +7844573407Tel. St Maarten +5995510550 or bymailto:BequiaMarina,P.O.Box 194BQ,PortElizabeth, email: [email protected] $49,000 CREW VACANCIES! operating TERM CHARTERS, allinclusive,7days. We arethefastestgrowingchartercompany, six destinationsintheCaribbean. TradeWinds CruiseCluboperateafleetofcatamaransacross Compass PointMarina,6300Est.Frydenhoj,Suite28, [email protected] Bequia, StVincent &theGrenadines www.stthomasyachts.com St. Thomas,U.S.V.I.00802 Fax: (340)779-2779 Tel: (340)779-1660 [email protected] Power Sail 72HP Perkins,AP,SolarPanels 46’ 1975DurbeckD-46 WorldCruiser $105,000

sailing southfromAnegada SHOTS SAILORS’ boards tradewinds! he addedPVC-pipeoutriggersandasailtocanoepretendedwasbackinthe future issueof the peopleandwherewhenyourshotwastaken—thenwatchoutforit in a “sailors’ shots”inthesubjectline.Includeabriefdescriptionidentifyingboat, yourself in A recentphotoof When CaribbeancruisingguideauthorChrisDoylegothomesicklastfallinVermont, Would youliketoseeyourfavoritephotoofboat,sailingbuddies or The crewoftheBahamianfishingsmack P.O. Box851,St.Vincent&theGrenadines, Tel: (784)458-7270Fax:457-9917 (betterknownas‘ridingpry’) E-mail: [email protected] Compass Compass WALLILABOU ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU BAYHOTEL West Indies. Windigo III ? [email protected] (range limitedbythehills) VHFCh16&68 ! , withCaptainKevinHughesenjoyingsinglehanded Abaco Rage ... CARIBEE BATIK-BOUTIQUE CREDIT CARDSACCEPTED —someonboardand WATER, ICE,SHOWERS BAR ANDRESTAURANT MOORING FACILITIES TOURS ARRANGED HAPPY HOUR5-6 PORT OFENTRY on FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 € € € € € € € € € E L Martinique 245 000 2 * 27 Cv Yanmar - Good condition A S MONOHULL CATAMARANS

R New Yanmar 100hp New Yanmar PROVEN WORLD CRUISER O CSY 44, WALKOVER, 1978 WALKOVER, CSY 44, GREAT OPPORTUNITY AT US$90,000 GREAT OPPORTUNITY FOR SALE FFOR LYING IN BEQUIA. TEL: (784) 458-3255 St Martin 199 000 US$ E-mail: [email protected] Islands Spirit 37 - 2001 - US Flag Perfect Condition Attractive Price Amel 54 2005 VAT Paid Amel 54 2005 VAT Paid Amel Mango Amel Super Maramu 2001 Superb Alubat Ovni 435 2006 Oceanis 411 1998 (Superb) Lagoon 500 2006 1979 Lagoon 380 2004 Guadeloupe Nautitech 395 1999 Tahiti Athena 38 1996 320 000 Guadeloupe Martinique Guadeloupe 699 000 109 000 269 000 120 000 Martinique St Martin St Martin 165 000 600 000 Venezuela 169 000 140 000 US $ : Want? Compass Really was one of only two boats in the Tobago was one of only two boats in Angelos … and more! by Angelika Grüner WHAT’S ON MY MIND WHAT’S

Nevis: An Unexpected Passage Stop What Do Caribbean Cruisers Exploring Ashore in the Western Caribbean

While Still Cruising? While How Is It Being ‘Old’, ‘Old’, Is It Being How Read in Next Month’s From this perspective, it would be advisable for Caribbean governments to look out But because of our longer stays, sometimes we have problems with Immigration. And by the time you get around, you too will be older. Quicker than you think, you And by the time you get around, you too will be older. And it was much more difficult than it is today. Parts for the boat were not easily And it was much more difficult than it is today. Parts My reply to you youngsters: laugh at us! But if we had not been cruising 30 and My reply to you youngsters: laugh at us! But if we had And the young? They don’t know anything about that. They are enthusiastic and And the young? They don’t know anything about that. And if we’ve found a good place, why not stay longer? We take it easy. “Don’t worry, And if we’ve found a good place, why not stay longer? We All goes a bit slower, but we still enjoy the cruising life. We don’t run around to get still enjoy the cruising life. We don’t run around to get All goes a bit slower, but we Nowadays many, if not most, cruisers are grey-haired, as we are now as well. Many cruisers are grey-haired, as we are now as well. Many Nowadays many, if not most, When we started cruising in the 1980s, most yachties were about the same age as the 1980s, most yachties were about the same age as When we started cruising in I’m in my fifties while my husband, Richard, is in his early seventies. He says I am Richard, is in his early seventies. He says I am I’m in my fifties while my husband, Still ‘time millionaires’ after all these years. Angelos, Richard and Angelika today Still ‘time millionaires’ after all these years. Angelos, Richard and 20 years ago for us old-timers, maybe by giving us a special “pensioner visa” which would allow us to stay longer, to spend even more money. But, governments, don’t forget the young cruisers — they are the future oldies wanting to apply for a pensioner visa for a longer stay as well! I hope that some day it will be a mark of pride and distinction for islands and nations to have the most “Lagoon Johnnies”. Some countries apparently don’t want us old visitors, even if we have a monthly income and our own health insurance. They seem to overlook the fact that we don’t take anything from the country; instead we pay for everything, plus keep local people employed with part of our income. It’s not the young who spend their money easily. No, they live mostly on saved-up money. We did the same, and turned every penny ten times before we spent it — “a penny saved is a penny earned,” said Benjamin Franklin. Old hands often spend money more easily because they live on a regular income, and “you can’t take it with you”. are an old-timer with grizzled hair. Some of you will give up sailing. Some will not, are an old-timer with grizzled hair. Some of you will to keep in shape, like we do now. What will you do then? Exactly what we do now — sit at a nice anchorage and watch the hyper-activities of the young. available. Thanks to us old hands, boat parts of all variety are now on the market, available. Thanks to us old hands, boat parts of all variety was no GPS, no weatherfax, where we never dreamed of finding them before. There voice. not even a good weather report, only NMN’s automatic more years ago, and telling our adventures, you would never have gotten the idea to more years ago, and telling our adventures, you would but we understand you go cruising yourselves. You don’t understand us elders, also were hurrying to get to youngsters. Remember, we were young, too. Then, we Panama and farther on at the right time. energetic. They chase after things, work on their boats from early morning till late energetic. They chase after things, work on their boats time to leave, the season is evening to get the boat ready as quickly as possible. “It’s up!” they tell us. They don’t short, we’ve got to be in Panama by February. Hurry in the same anchorage. understand our behaviour, staying sometimes for weeks Johnny”, “barnacle-grower”, “How boring!” We are getting nicknames like “Lagoon too, like “old-timers’ club” “water-camper” and so on. Places are getting nicknames or “old people’s home”. be happy,” says the island slogan. The older we get, the shorter the distances to sail be happy,” says the island slogan. The older we get, the our cruising life. We still will be. Our limbs are getting stiffer. But still, we manage even if our beer-belly is in have to crawl and squeeze in between hull and engine, the way. Cruising keeps us busy and active. things done — we take our time, having a chat in between. What we can’t do today time, having a chat in between. What we can’t do today things done — we take our day. We are time millionaires! — well, tomorrow is another are pensioners. We all have one thing in common: we enjoy staying a bit longer in one thing in common: we enjoy staying a bit longer are pensioners. We all have staying in a marina to have easy access to land. We wait an anchorage. Some prefer to another port or island. for the right weather to hop Cays; in August, it was the only yacht in all of Tobago, and there were just three only yacht in all of Tobago, and there were just three Cays; in August, it was the the hurricane season in Trinidad till November. foreign-flagged vessels during we were. There were not so many cruisers as nowadays. But, even then, we were told many cruisers as nowadays. But, even then, we were we were. There were not so with boats. To give you an example of “overcrowd- the Caribbean was overcrowded our ed”: for one week in June, 1989, young. Our son is 24. He says I’m very old. young. Our son is 24. He says FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44

FINISHING PRODUCTS P PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES Noelina &LennoxTaylorwelcome you!

PORTHOLE RESTAURANT &BAR Incl. Pilots,Rigging Chandlery, Charts, TEL +351292391616FAX +351292391656 TEAK TE A friendlyatmospherewhereyoucansitandmeet people. YACHT SERVICES C & ShorelineMini-Market [email protected] Phone:1(784)457-3000 caribwoods@vinc Phone:1(784)457-3000 C MID ATLANTIC Providing all vital services to Providing allvitalservices A www.midatlanticyachtservices.com Bequia,St.VincentBe a EU-VAT (14%)importation Duty free fuel(+10.000lt) Duty free MARINE PLYM Admiralty Bay,Bequia Caribbean CompassMarketPlace K r Trans-Atlantic Yachts! i ARIN

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A n We servebreakfast, E lunch anddinner RDWOO W R Phone (784)458-3458 PL W y surf.com ODUC o H CH68 VHF o Y t

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Market Place, contact your island agent Market Place,contactyourisland agent Piper MarineStore Stocked withlotsofmarinehardware, filters, ★ (see list on page 4) or contact Tom at (see listonpage4)orcontactTom at To advertise in Caribbean Compass To advertiseinCaribbeanCompass Comeandfindusamongstthetrees! (784) 4573856Cell: (784)4952272 nuts &Bolts,Impellers, Bilgepumps, PLEASE RESERVE! Bequia -Port Elizabeth Monday toSaturday [email protected] Services offered: Rigging, Lifelines Candelight Dinners Located downstairs AllickSails Varnish &muchmore. Tel: in Lower Bay, Bequia (784) 457 3409 (784) 4573409 ( 784 ) 458-3758 continuedonnextpage Clearance Information • Fishing •LightEngineandBoatRepairCustoms/Immigration Restaurants •Taxi&TourOperatorsWhaleWatchingSport SIM TopUp•LaundryWiFiInternetBeachBarNearby Disposal •SecurityTelephone&FaxMobilePhoneRental/ • LPGas(propane)refillsShowers&Toilets(WC)Garbage Marine /SeaChoiceProductsMercury/Yanmar (Unleaded /Diesel)•IceYachtChandleryagents-Budget • Bakery(Sukie’sBreadCompany)WateratdockFuel • YachtMooringAnchorageGroceryStore&Provisioning CARRIACOU REALESTATE Property ManagementonCarriacou Tel: (473)4438182Fax: 4438290 e-mail: [email protected] We alsohandleVilla Rentals& or contactCarolyn Alexanderat For fulldetailsseeourwebsite: Land andhousesforsale www.islandvillas.com Down IslandLtd Visa /MasterCardaccepted Roseau &Portsmouth UNIQUE INDOMINICA The Dockmaster Tel:767-275-2851VHF:16 Tel: 767-448-2705Fax:767-448-7701 home ofthe [email protected] www.dominicamarinecenter.com Dominica MarineCenter and yourcenterfor: Dominica Yacht isthe Club FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 I L E S P R H C H A N D

All the & Safety Open 7/7 Supplies, Chandlery Equipment for your Boat and deliver door to door and deliver CIRExpress CIRExpress COURIER SERVICES COURIER SERVICES St. Maarten/ St. Martin, collect Martin, Maarten/ St. St. Book it now: Int. 001-3057042314 Int. Packages Pick – up call: Packages Pick – up call: THIS COULD BE E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: YOUR MARKET PLACE AD Port de Plaisance 97290, Le Marin I I + (599) 553-3850 / + (590) 690-222473 N R G G G Tel: +596 74 87 55 Fax: +596 74 85 39 or contact your local island agent We are on-line: [email protected] MARTINIQUE www.caribbeancompass.com email: [email protected] Phone: +(596) 596 74 8033 Cell: (596) 696 27 66 05 Phone: +(596) 596 74 8033 www.caraibe-greement.fr [email protected] www.caraibe-greement.fr continued on next page LE MARIN, MARTINIQUE • GRENADA LE MARIN, MARTINIQUE Didier and Maria clippers [email protected] Saturday by appointment tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32 located at Carenantilles dockyard LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE e-mail: [email protected] Tel: (0) 596 71 41 61 Fax: (0) 596 71 77 Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication) Le Marin, Martinique Voiles Assistance Shipchandler, Artimer F D P E T F R D A P C E T D R N A I C W S D E N L I B W A

M S U Tel/Fax (473) 439-4495 Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean G [email protected] S A N [email protected] Nick Williams, Manager Nick Williams, L O Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 (473) Tel: F

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MARKET PLACEAD Tel: +44(0)1489550565Mob:+44(0)7515736466 1 OrwellCrescent,FarehamHants,PO144JRUK AAtlantic P: 599-544-5310F:599-544-3299 We guaranteetobeatanywrittenquote. please contact Atlantic Yacht Deliveries. Marine Distributors Marine Distributors t For deliveriesbacktoUKandEurope [email protected] l www.IslandWaterWorld.com a Email [email protected] www.atlanticyachtdeliveries.co.uk n St Thomas, StMaarten, t St Lucia,Grenada i c

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DDeliveries e l i v e r i e s FEBRUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 seeking a Graphic WANTED looking for 2 employ- Grenada MP CLASSIFIED ADS New BVI Publishing Publishing New BVI Company Degree & Web Designer. in areas and experience maga- such as book layout, zine design, web and video editing is required. Interest in water sports, travel, arts and crafts a plus. Email application and resume to: dread- [email protected] or/and [email protected]. TORTOLA - ARAGORNS STUDIO ees.Welder/Workshop manager and shop assistant required at our busy Art Studio in Trellis Bay, BVI.Ideal candidates are a couple with artistic inclination living on their own boat and looking for shore side employ- ment in a US$ economy. Still interested to hear from a lone welder! Info contact Aragorn Tel (284) 495-1849 E-mail [email protected] US 50¢ per word – include name, address and numbers in count. Line drawings/ photos accompanying classifieds are US$10. Pre-paid by the 15th of the month. No replies.

Trans- harters – Sea Services Seminole Marine Sling's Upholstery Soper's Hole Marina 28 South Grenada Regatta Spice Island Marine Guadeloupe Grenada MP Martinique Tortola Carriacou St. Thomas Yacht Sales 25 Superwind Germany St. Thomas 18 Grenada SVG Air 17 MP 42 Sweet Cry Concert 11 Technick Grenada 22 Tikal Arts & Crafts Trade Winds Cruising Antigua Trans Caraibes Rallies Bequia Grenada Guadeloupe 37 St. Vincent MP 40 42 37 Turbuence Alternative Energy Vemasca Venezuela 10 Turbulence Sails MP Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout MP Carriacou Vemasca Venezuela Voiles Assistance Volvo Grenada 8 Wallace & Co Wallilabou Anchorage Martinique WIND Martinique 22 WIND Martinique St. Vincent Xanadu Marine MP 42 Bequia Martinique Venezuela 8 7 10 & Cakes made fresh deliveries. Tel Cris Robinson deliveries. Tel Cris E-mail (58) 416-3824187 [email protected] AVAILABLE SKIPPER Commercial Yachtmaster ExtensiveOcean/Divemaster. experience: Caribbean, Atlantics, Mediterranean, USA (B1/B2 Visa), UK. C Deliveries – Relief Captain – Guardinage Tel: (758) 284-1342 BEQUIA HOMEMADE BREADS every day! Wholewheat, mul- tigrain, banana bread, herbs & flax, butter crescents. To place order Tel (784) 457- 3527/433-3008 E-mail [email protected] Orders are delivered FREE SPENDING THE HURRICANE SEASON IN PLC VENEZUELA? Bahia Redonda Marina, Slip to rent,$15 per day inc water, electricity,cable TV.Hauling out?I have a beautiful four bedroomed apartment,overlooking the pool fully equiped, internet, cable tv,huge terrace., Great rates for cruisers. E-mail [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]

Tortola 6 Azores MP , elec- A clas- E-mail

, Safe-Private- 16 by 32 feet, sol- RENTALS SERVICES [email protected] www.grenadinevillas.com BEQUIA - PROFESSIONAL BEQUIA - PROFESSIONAL UNISEX HAIR SERVICE JSM Beauty Salon, Villa and Yacht visits accepted. Contact Jill for an appointment. Tel (784) 457-3600 E-mail: [email protected] ST. VINCENT NAIL SALON Upstairs Gourmet Food, between Sunsail & Young Island cut, Manicure, Pedicure, Various nail services. Call 526-5742 (Sabrina) VHF 68 PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ. INSURANCE SURVEYS, trical problems and yacht BELLEVUE, CARRIACOU, BELLEVUE, CARRIACOU, GRENADA. idly built with hardwood and baked enamel tin roof. Fence, plus gate, plus latrine and a 400-gallon water tank with gutter system in place. Southern panoramic view with a breeze, 5-10 minutes walk to secluded black sand beach. Tel (902) 648-0165 or go to http: //www.carriacou.net/ listings/WoodenHouseBelmont/ BEQUIA PROPERTIES sic Belmont villa in 1 acre 2,000,000US, The Village Apartments Business 1,890,000US, Admiralty Bay 900,000US, Spring Villa 1,750,000US LowerBay 1.600,000US, Friendship 320,000US, Moonhole 750,000US, relax & enjoy Bequia life. Tel (784) 455 0969 Sapphire Resort Marina- St. Thomas Convenient. Long & Short Term Rentals 65 ft Max. $1,200.00 monthly. Adjacent Apartments also available. E-mail: [email protected] Tel: 787-366-3536 Sapphire Village St. Thomas Studios and 1 Bedroom Apartments. Short & Long Term Rates. Starting @ $1,100.00 month. Boat Slips also Available. See photos at www.vrbo.com #106617 Tel: 787-366-3536 or Email:[email protected] GRPro-Clean Martinique MP GRPro-Clean Martinique Iolaire Enterprises Island Water World Johnson Hardware Jones Maritime UK 36/40 KNJ Mariner Sint Maarten KP Marine St. Lucia 48 Bequia L'Auberge des Grenadines 36 Le Ship St. Croix Lulley's Tackle 35 MP Marina Zar Par 38 Trinidad McIntyre Bros. Ltd 41 Mid Atlantic Yacht Services St. Vincent Navimca Venezuela Bequia Navtech Trinidad MP Grenada 41 Dominican Rep Northern Lights Generators 29 Martinique Old Fort Estates Perkins Engines 40 8 Petit St. Vincent MP Piper Marine Porthole Restaurant Bequia Power Boats Tortola Renaissance Marina PSV Bequia Salty Dog Sports Bar Santa Barbara Resorts MP Aruba Bequia Savon De Mer 30 Bequia Curaçao MP Trinidad 34 MP 21 12 38 MP Caribbean MP

E-mail Two Two e-mail CLASSIFIEDS Carriacou for VINDÖ 35, ADVERTISERS INDEX Trinidad 27 Martinique 31 , Lower Bay, Bells , Lower Bay, Bells at http://doylecarib- MISC. FOR SALE PROPERTY FOR SALE BEQUIA Point, House and Land. Serious buyers only. Sale by owner. Call (784) 456 0866 after 6pm. E-mail [email protected] heads, two staterooms, heads, two staterooms, davits, solar panels 150wt. Carib 11' hard- bottom, 6hp Yamaha, good cockpit canvas, good sails, new range/ oven, rigging updated, engine runs great, new hoses, mounts. Many spares, tools and cruising "stuff". We cruise the BVI area Feb. 11 to April 2. Everything works well. SELDEN RIG deck stepped, boom, spreaders, lights, winches (has been changed for upgrade) 4000 US o.b.o ask for details 758 4528531 e-mail [email protected] COMMERCIAL SINGER SEWING MACHINE with hand crank in walnut case. Perfect for sewing sails onboard. Asking U$250 Tel (473) 443-6221 MASTERVOLT REAL SINE WAVE INVERTER/CHARGER COMBI New in Original Box. 24 VDC naar 240 AC /50Hz , 4000 Watt real sine wave charger 240 AC 50/60Hz naar 120 Amp 24 VDC laad- stroom. Price US$3500 BENETEAU 37, 1987. BENETEAU 37, $46,500 Bargin. 1-360-317-5015 E-mail [email protected] www.mackayeharborinn.com GREAT LITTLE 25' WEEKENDER '77 F.G. w/8H.P. Yanmar I.B., rigged in 05, lying in Grenada $13 K USD, Tel: (473) 440 -7525 Monsoon is a steel ketch,Monsoon is a deck, single72 ft long over all furling,diesel/twin genset, lots of new stuff. Visit: www.sailmonsoon.com [email protected] SAILS AND CANVAS EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL DEALS bean.com/specials.htm CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS and multi acre tracts. Great views overlooking Southern Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay www.caribtrace.com [email protected] Ber- cutter- Diginav Martinique 11 Cooper Marine Curaçao Marine Diesel Outfitters Diginav Martinique USA Curaçao St. Maarten 29 26 27 with eve- Dockwise Yacht Transport Sarl Dominica Marine Center Dominica Dopco Travel Down Island Real Estate MP Carriacou Doyle Offshore Sails 9/28 MP Doyle's Guides Echo Marine - Jotun Special MP Tortola Electropics Trinidad Grenada Electropics Trinidad Errol Flynn Marina USA Falmouth Harbour Marina 23 3 Antigua Fernando's Hideaway Food Fair Jamaica Fortress Marine Bequia 13 Frangipani Hotel 10 Fred Marine 11 Gittens Engines MP Gourmet Foods St. Kitts Grenada Grenada Round Island Race Bequia Grenada Marine Grenada Grenada Tourism Trinidad 19 Grenadines Sails Guadeloupe 14 St. Vincent 11 37 24 Grenada 39 MP Grenada Bequia 23 5 29 , Morning Tide - US$31,750. atable w/15hp Yama- 36' BRUCE ROBERTS rigged cruising sailboat, 1987. great roomy custom liveaboard. wood/epoxy composite. Yanmar 24hp diesel. recent batteries, new Airx wind generator, solar panel, and refrigeration. 9ft AB inﬂ OYSTER 45' 1996. BEQUIA Visit oysteryachtrainbowspirit.com to see details on this lovely yacht.Price US360,000 Tel (784) 532 1690 ha. US$18,500. located Vir- gin Islands. Tel (608)334-8553. STEEL KETCH 72 ft. Due to circumstances I am willing to offer my sailing yacht MONSOON for sale for a very low price. S&S 34 Excellent Condition – good inventory. Tel: (868) 704-1358 Email: [email protected] 31' (9.35M) MURIA 1992 muda sloop. Popular So. Africa design by Oswald Beckmeyer, built by Z-Craft in Durban, S.A. Yanmar 2GM20, Zetus manual wind- lass, many extras for cruising. Berthed at Grenada Yacht Club. Contact Selwyn Tel (473) 435-4174 CATALINA SLOOP rything. Owner relocat- ing. For inventory E mail s.v.curvaceous@gmail Patrick Tel (473) 406-8888 Petite Martinique 29 Petite Martinique Trinidad MP

Open. fiberglass, gc, new BOATS FOR SALE A&C Yacht Brokers Admiral Yacht Insurance UK Anjo Insurance Art & Design Martinique Art Fabrik Atlantic Yacht Deliveries MP UK B & C Fuel Dock Antigua 41 Antigua 9 Grenada MP MP MP Barefoot Yacht Charters Barrows Sails & Canvas St. Vincent Basil’s Bar Trinidad Bay Island Yachts 16 Bichik Services Bogles Round House MP Budget Marine Trinidad BVI Yacht Sales Carriacou Camper & Nicholsons Mustique Martinique Captain Gourmet 38 42 Caraibe Greement Grenada Caraibe Greement MP Sint Maarten Tortola 39 Caraibe Yachts 2 Union Island Carene Shop 20 Martinique Caribbean Marine Electrical 37 Martinique Caribbean Propellers Ltd. 43 Trinidad MP Caribbean Woods 15 Guadeloupe Carriacou Silver Diving Clipper Ship 43 Carriacou Martinique MP Bequia 9 MP MP Martinique MP ADVERTISER LOCATION PG# ADVERTISER LOCATION PG# ADVERTISER LOCATION PG# ADVERTISER LOCATION PG# 2007 INTREPID 300 Twin 250 HP Evinrude ETECS. Every available option including T-Top, custom center console with head, bow thruster, dive door, Northstar Color GPS, AutoPilot, Depthfinder, live bait well and much more. Boat and Engines are like new with less than 300 hrs. This boat has been captain maintained since new and is located on St. Thomas, USVI. If you want the best 30’ center console this is it. Owner has new Intrepid on order. US$150,000. Tel (610) 251-9135. URGENT SALE - VENUS 46, 1984 KETCH engine, very well equipped, excellent live aboard and cruiser. Price reduced from US$199,000 to US$169,000 ONO for a fast sale. Lying St Lucia. For more info and pictures please e-mail [email protected] or phone +596696907429. 1975 German Frers 39ft, 1975 German Frers 39ft, 2 sets racing sails,US 57.000 1981 Cape Dory 30, US 39.000, St.Lucia duty paid St.Lucia duty paid 2000 Catana 471, 4 cabin, 460.000 Euros 1987 Irwin 44 105.000 US 1992 Dehler 37 CWS, 90.000 Euros 1981 CT 54 195.000 US E-mail Yachtsales@dsl-yachting.com Tel (758) 452 8531 BOATS FOR SALE IN TRINIDAD Tel (868) 739-6449 www.crackajacksailing.net Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited