Ludgate Hill

L U D G A T E H I L L :

’ ‘ P asi cma P msem .

A N R N TH E P P P L S L DS AR ATIVE CONCER ING EO LE , ACE , EGEN , AND CH ANGES O F TH E

G REAT LO N D O N H IG H AY W .

’ w il N u r us E n /z me o gm mngs.

SE C ON D E D I TI O N .

301117011 W T A N D A % E A S O N N E Y L D . H L L , , V I , ,

D LAN E E . . 1 , CREE , C

4 D ED ICATION .

“ “ h onou rably won your sp u rs on th e ﬂ oor of th e Court by

d rtakin at th e sol ic itation o our nei hbours to re resen t un e g, fy g , p

‘ ou r ward and b h earti devotin our e orts to th e work y , y ly g y p

of adequately accompl ishing th e du ties of th e successive oﬁces

e dev l ed u n ou wh ich in th e course of tim o v po y .

P ermit me to sa m L ord Ma or th at the course wh h y, y y , ic you havefol l owed has gained foryou th e regard and esteem of

al l th ose wh o pl ace the cl aims ofp ubl ic du ty before th e advantages

' ‘ o ce ofp u bl ic jz . I t seems to be appropriate th at th is expression of respect and

' goodwil l shoul d be oﬁered in the dedication of a book to a L ord

Ma or who is th e Al derman o th e Ward C astl e Ba nard y f of y ,

with some scenes in the h istory of whic h th e fol l owing pages

h e to deal av .

With ou t sa in more exc e t to re eat m thanks and to y g , p p y ,

' express a sincere h ope th atyo u r term ofojz ce may be distingu ish ed

by th e h appy accompl ishment of th e work you are so competent

to initiate and direct ,

1 am m L ord Ma or y y ,

Y our obedient serv n a t,

W P . TRE L OA R. P R E F A C E

T TH E S CON ITI O E D ED ON .

T is more than ten years since the ﬁrst edition (o ftwenty

thousand) of this book was issued . While it was in the press I became a member o f the Corp o ration o f the City of London ; my chief object in entering upon civic duties being to secure the opportunity for calling attention to the necessity for completing the wideni ng and effectually carrying o ut the improvements o f this importan t thoro ughfare in which I have always taken so much interest . The favour with which Ludgate Hill Past and Present ’ was received, and the fact that the ﬁrst issue has been long fﬁ exhausted, might be su cient reasons for my venturing to republish it, but I am right glad to be able to say that there is a perhaps better reason still . The impr o vements and extension to which I refer are practically accomplished, and therefore this chronicle de mands the additi o n o fanother chapter . A brief retrospect o f h e o f t proceedings in the Court Sewers , which marked

f n o w the vicissitudes o the work so satisfactorily completed ,

w . ill , I hope , be interesting and acceptable These few prefatory words wo uld be incomplete if I did not take the opportunity o f referring with much gratiﬁ PR E A E T TH E D 6 F C O SECON ED ITION . cation (not unmingled with deep regret for the loss the citizens and indeed all th e inhabitants of London have so

th e recently sustained) , to the late Chamberlain of City , i Mr . Benjamin Scott, who in letters addressed to me m

1 1 mediately after the publication of the ﬁrst edition , in 88 , was good enough to speak in terms of commendation Of the book , and to express an opinion that it would be well if every quarter of our ancient city were similarly treated . He also furnished me with some items of information in

o f regard to the Prison of Bridewell , the incarceration there

so — o the called Separatists, or Nonc nformists , who were unpolitical Puritans in the time of Eliz abeth ; and to the maintenance Of Bridewell at the present day as a place to which stubbornly rebellious and disorderly City apprentices m may be com itted for short terms Of imprisonment .

These memoranda , which I had the honour to receive

so from distinguished a scholar and antiquarian , are inserted in their proper places in this edition . “ ” You will be issuing a second edition some day , he wrote , in a courteous and encouraging letter dated January

2 6th 1 88 2 o f , ; and now , though the recollecti n is that o “ the touch of a vanished hand and the sound of a voice ” that is still, the words are veriﬁed . R W . TR L . P . E OA

L D G E H LL L D U AT I ON ON , P R E F A C E

TO TH E FIRST ITI E D ON .

HE following pages are intended as a gossiping , but ,

o it is h ped, an entertaining , and perhaps in some

o f o f instances an instructive , memorial one the great highways of the greatest city in the world . The vast extent and continu o us growth of London render it impossible fo r any writer even to indicate its historical associations and

a o arch e logical remains , unless he is prepared to produce

‘ e a large book in several volumes , like that of the lat d . o r b o f Ol Mr Charles Knight, the admira le narrative

and N ew L ndo n . o pub lished by Messrs Cassell , Petter,

Galpin and Co . But it is still possible to indulge in a brief and yet inclusive retro spect o f the history of one

r to its particular street o neighb o urhood , and recall

o s antiquities , its legendary history , and its s cial aspect

n with pleasure and adva tage . Whether this result has been achieved in the present vo lume remains to be seen ; but at any rate o ne who h as fo r many years b ee n associated with the locality and with the prosperity Of Ludgate Hill may be excused if he imagines that s o me o f o to o n indul its records cann t fail interest, not ly the gent, but the impartial reader .

W . TR L . P E OAR.

L D E H LL L D U GAT I , ON ON ,

Se t 1 81 p . 8 .

— 881 . LU D GAT E H I LL AS IT 15 1 at 111 : rst anti rearm i nme £ ﬁ ﬁ .

INTRODUCTION .

N intimate acquaintance with the histo rical highways and byways of London is f itself a kind o education . A thoughtful observer who has leisure to loiter and reﬂect can scarcely tire o fthe vast ﬁeld fo r recollection and spec u latio n which is open to

him in the streets . The multitudinous sh o ps are an endless international and industrial o f exhibition , where the productions r en painters , sculpto s , designers , artiﬁc ers gravers , in gems and precious

r metal s , artists in the making and n f o fashioni g O c stly fabrics , workmen o o in woo d and st ne and ir n , and all o f o o an the manufactures l m d wheel , are displayed in inﬁnite variety . O n either h and as we pass along we come upon some aston ishing example of the application o f modern scientiﬁc d o r o f iscoveries and inventions , some stupendous result I O H : AN D LUDGATE ILL PAST PRESENT .

mechanical power , amidst surprising transformations , where the old and the new in architecture and in art are blended r o contrasted .

But beyond all this, and even in the midst of perpetual a change , we are constantly reminded of gre t historical o o f s episodes and expl its , which there are still o many no t o t memorials , nly in public buildings and monumen s , b ut in ancient houses , each with its particular legend , and in the names and titles o f streets and localities in which m o dern impro vement and ruthless changes o f nomenclature have not erased all historical interest . m All these things ake London a perpetual marvel , even e to the accustomed wayfarer, and in order truly to appreciat the educati o n afforded by the streets it is necessary to be accustomed . They who have learnt the aspects o fancient — o neighbourhoods , and who know their history to wh m cer o o o r s tain h uses , doorways , steeples , p rches , even quaint bit of mellowing wall and gable , bear a familiar and friendly o f aspect , while others are more suggestive a darker interest, — ﬁn d in the Great City an unfailing source o f pleasure . They will mark with reluctance and regret the inevitable o f changes that obliterate some records the past, but they will also remember th at these changes are caused by th e en o rmous and continued expansion of that commerce which ’ h as been the mainspring o f Lond o n s prosperity and the f i s f occasion o t renown . Even the man o business can spare a few moments Of appreciation fo r the stirring epi so des o f - and the venerable mem rials o a far reaching history , which , when rightly understood , is intimately associated with o f the later devel pments o human progress . is no o e There , perhaps , sp t in all wide London wher the characteristics to which we have referred are m o re obvio us than in the busy approach to the very core and ’ — centre o fthe world s metropolis the ascent to the Cathedral — o f . D St Paul the H ILL of LU GATE . H il l is — The here and the name , it may be hoped, will o Fo r e never bec me Obsolete . those who seek them , ther are n o t wanting as many indications of the old and wide ” reno wn o f this great thoroughfare as there are o f its o present imp rtance . Much o f the pomp and circumstance E I TS LEG NDS . I I which distinguished it in the days o f go rgeo us pageants r and imposing processions has passed away . It no longe resounds with the Clank o f arms o r the chanting o f priests and acolytes the splendid spectacle o f a royal progress scarcely belongs to m o dern experience but the mementoes o fthe vivid events and picturesque sh o ws that distinguished th e fam o us Hill when Lud Gate opened in the City Wall are o still numerous , and have f rmed an appreciable element in “ the less romantic but perhaps greater st o ry of o ur lives from year to year . W ill the reader, to whom this sober introduction may in ’ u s o f some sort appeal , give the pleasure an hour s good o f company, and step aside with us , heedless the passing to o o f w throng, a c ign vantage , hence , in brief and simple phrase , we may recall some Of the .

TRUE L E GE N D S OF LU D GATE H I LL ?

fo r o o n Here is the very place such disc urse , the rise Y u o f the Hill itself. o u have b t to shut your eyes in a - and so — r momentary day dream , vanish the g eat dreary iron ’ a a b il l s o — sp n Of the usurping r ilway bridge at the f ot , vanish the lofty piles o f buildings that ﬂank the bridge Of Black — % o n friars vanish the bridge itself There the right , ’ o o r lo ming large , is the palace of Bridget s Well , Bridewell and acro ss the brawling stream Of the Fleet which runs al o ng the valley at the foot o f the hill to j o in the Ol db o urne is

Fleet Bridge . Looking beyond the intervening space towards the Thames is the church and fo rmer Friary o f the n n o f w Domi ica s , anciently the seat the Parliament , and here ’ Wo lsey sat with the P o pe s Legate ; and behind us is the e w ate Fleet Pris o n . On the left is the Old Bail Hill and N g ’ with its gaol while further towards St . Paul s the successor o f the ancient Lud Gate bestrides the roadway and joins o the City Wall , wherein is embedded the pris n misnamed fo r a refuge po o r deb tors . The great Cathedral is not a o o f o church of cupola and d me , but l ng nave , broad transept

o o o r . no t a o and p inted t wers spires There , long g , the o o high altar sh ne resplendent with g ld and jewels , and censers swung incense , during high mass , and priests and 1 H A 2 LUDGATE ILL : PAST N D PRESENT . a w th colytes crowded the aisles , or waited to sho visitors e

saintly relics in the shrines . The tower of Baynard Castle stands upon Thames fo Bank , where the great navigator , Sir Francis Drake , the e to h is Spain , had taken up abode , while his ship , the Gol den fl ind —a , lay in the river at Deptford grand show , t o which the Queen Elizabeth herself has paid a stately

visit, and given the knightly accolade to the brave com

mander . O Still nearer, amidst the huddled streets pposite our

- standing place , is Playhouse Yard , and there has been built a o ne new theatre, whither comes Burbage, from the other — — o n h as theatre the Globe Bankside . He brought with h im a company o f players to perfo rm the dramas of Ben o o f o f J nson and one William Shakespeare , whom not only

the Court, but all the town , will soon be talking . This fo r o ur Shakespeare will be here presently , we have taken “ ” stand beside the deep archway o f the old Bell Savage o u se e o - Inn (y can the wide , co l inn yard beyond, with its f tier o upper rooms behind heavy wooden balconies) . The n o w guests are even coming from their rooms , and taking o f their places on the balconies , to witness the p erformance o Bankes and his wonderful h rse Marocco , and to listen to f o the jests o the famous cl wn , Tarleton , who comes from o in n Grassc h urc h perf rming at another in Street, by London

Bridge . i so us s t o . There is a bench here , let d wn It is the

seat where rested Sir Th o mas Wyatt . But we must tell that — — story presently the story o f the old Bell Savage fo r we must go further backward yet in the chronicles o f brick and o an d stone , and have but menti ned Shakespeare his day as a o f o f hint the kind of company that we shall meet with , and the place where the legends Of Ludgate Hill may be most l ” ﬁt y recalled .

Th e o rner o f e e S a a e Y ar th e o o r er th e o er c B ll uv g d , by sp t f m ly ut “ a a o f th Ol d inn o f th e S a a e a i i th e i e o f Th e g t e w y e v g f m ly, w th t tl “ g e o n th e H o o and af e r ar th e e l S a a e inn o r o e r . B ll p , t w ds B l v h st l y I in th e re o r Th e pl ace is m entio ne d as early as th e re ign o fH enryV . c d

o fa e a ran er and w as en o f o e an i i . Th e o rner no w l g l t sf , th s m t q u ty c

L H h n e a i en o f e r . re erre to is N o . 68 a e t e w e f d , udg t ill , st bl shm t M ss s

Tre o ar 8: S o n wh o al o o th e re i e N O . 6 O o i e . l s , s ccupy p m s s 9 , pp s t D I KING LU . 3

Ludgate Hill h as been a representative locality fro m the earliest age fro m which we c an date either records o r ur traditions o f Londo n . It was the famous highway of o r Of o chro nicles , fo it was in the midst n ted churches , castles , o f o palaces , courts ecclesiastical and civil law, h spitals , prisons , priories , theatres , fairs and markets and was daily cro wded with nobles , priests , knights , mendicant friars , ﬂa el l ants -at - o wh o g , pilgrims , men arms, citizens and ye men visited its shops and stalls , or passed about its narrow streets , many o fwhich led to the mansio ns o fthe no bility in vario us ’ r o n parts o f the City between St . Bride s o H o lb rn a d the

T o wer . sit o fo r If King Lud did not , as it were , enthr ned all f in time at Lud Gate , at all events he has had the credit o it o o u r s popular legend , and with him , theref re , own veraciou chronicle truly begins . But as with him the inﬂated exaggerati o ns o f the forme r - to o r legend mongers appear draw to a cl se , we must take thei praises of his achievements with a very large pinch o fsalt in n o deed . That he was a jovial feaster and boo c mpanion is a o da quite probable, and he may have been f m us in his yas a o so o warrior, and even as a legislat r , far as these qualities w uld w o be exercised by a chief h se brother became historical ,

o f o o o . and wh m , theref re , we know s mething definite It is even po ssible that he really repaired several o l d towns and buildings ; but we have to ask o urselves what were th e towns and edifices o f Britain befo re the Roman co nquest ? “ o T n v ant and ab ve all , what was the Old city of my o was n before , as alleged , Lud e larged it , surrounded it with o n a wall of st e , built Lud Gate, and erected a palace which ’ o long afterwards became the bish p s palace, and a temple was o f which the beginning the Church o fSt . Paul ? It is impossible to reduce these declarations to any definite n to proportio s , and we are therefore driven the humiliating confession that though it is als o asserted that the name o o is o o o L nd n derived fr m Lud T wn , which sounds as th ugh s o meb o dy with a c o ld in his head had tried to mention the o o o m re m dern appellati n , and the w o rd Ludgate remains apparently unaltered , there are as many etym o l o gical o bjec tions to these derivations as there are historical difficulties I D E H : A N D E 4 LU GAT I LL PAST PRES NT . in the way of assigning to Lud himself a position of such a high distinction s the older legends claim for him . All that we can really yield to the memory of King Lud is th at he probably was a person of some importance in his day, and he may have given his name to a town but Lud

S D H IS SO S ON LU D G E see a e E FFI G I E OF KING LUD AN N , AT ( p g

Town is almost as visionary as Troynovant when we seek in it the derivation o f Londo n ; and the oldest Lud Gate o f o th e remains o fwhich there is any authentic rec rd , was no f o Ol der than the reign o King J hn , and was adorned with sculptured ﬁgures purporting to represent Lud and his two sons (who were to succeed him in place o fhis br o ther C assI

I L 6 LUDGATE H IL : PAST AND PRESENT .

portant historical existence at a period near to that of gate

and wall having been built has led to the association . The contention is that it mean t Flud or Flood Gate—the Gate o n was the Fleet or Flood , which the stream fed by th e

LU D GATE .

v o fW r Ri er ells and Tu nmil l Brook , and running from the

Old Bourne, al ong the bottom of the Hill , to the Thames . as O see But, Leigh Hunt bserves , it is not easy to in that case why Fleet Street Should not have been called Lud

Street, and perhaps the old tradition is so far true that some ROMAN LONDON . I 7

“ ancient Lud or Lloyd was the builder Ofan Old original no t gate , whether king or . 1 66 o ut In 9 , while the workmen were digging the ruins val l u m after the Fire Of London , in the place where the , or

rampart, of this camp had been , near Ludgate , they came upon a sepulchral m o nument in memory o f Vivius Mar i o o f o c anus , a Roman s ldier the Second Legi n , quartered % a M here . It had been erected by his wife , Janu ria arina, and o o f C o h o rs represented him as a British soldier, pr bably the Brito num m , dressed and armed after the anner of the o country , in long hair , a Short lower garment, fastened r und o the waist by a girdle and ﬁbula, a l ng sagum or plaid ﬂung o ne Off over his breast and arm , ready to be cast in time o of action, bare legs , and in his right hand a sw rd of vast

C . length , like the laymore Of the later Highlanders The point Ofthe swo rd was resting on the ground . In his left as o o f hand w what appears to be a porti n a weapon , the

end Ofwhich is broken . l And here we are met at once by a difﬁculty . The o d Roman wall o f London co uld scarcely have c o me beyond ’ o f n where the east end Sai t Paul s now stands , unless the Romans there departed fro m their rule of never perm itting n a cemetery to be withi their cities . They were strict o f - advocates extra mural interment, and it might have been better in s o me respects if their success o rs had fo llowed their example , though we confess that antiquarians and archaeologists would have had less to write about if there had been no tombs in the churches , and the cemeteries had all been reduced to the condition lately presented by Bun to hill Fields . It is possible , however, imagine an outer as as o o well an inner wall ; and, acc rding to the m st authentic — o r o — narrators , the Old Roman the rest red Roman wall began at a fort which occupied part of the Site of the present Tower of London continuing by the Minories to H o undsditc h Aldgate , Bevis Marks , Camomile Street , and , to o Bishopsgate , and straight thr ugh to Cripplegate turning to Aldersgate , Newgate , and Ludgate passing at the back

Th e bo die s o f so l diers w ere always bu rie d in th e v al /u m tho se o fth e i iz en in th e omceriu m a S a e o i e o r iﬁe o n o n i c t s p , p c uts d f t d t w s wh ch al l buildings w ere pro hibite d . E H A E 1 8 LUD GAT ILL : PAST ND PRES NT .

Of the spot no t very long ago Occupied by the College Of ’ so Physicians in Warwick Lane ; by Stationers Hall , and ’ to the gate near St . Martin s Church ; crossing Ludgate o o w Hill, and extending d wn the Opp site Side west ard to the present Ludgate Circus ; thence turning southward , and

Skirting Fleet Brook , to the Thames , where was another o o tower j ining it to the wall that ran al ng Thames Bank , to - n back again the Tower a wall which even Fitz Stephe , “ wh o o o f wr te in th e reign the Second Henry , says was u long Since subverted by the ﬁshf l river . Comparatively few Saxon relics have been discovered o f o within that area , the circuit which from th e T wer round to the Fleet at the foot Of Ludgate Hill was two miles and a

o o . furlong, with ut reckoning that al ng the river bank Still fewer are the relics Of the ancient Brito ns . Saxon Lond o n was but a small improv ement upon the R o man city ; in it o o deed , was Roman L ndon desp iled , but growing yearly richer in the commerce planted by the former invaders, and more enlightened by the Christianity which Augustine had brought to Ethelbert , the builder Of the then humble cathedral church of Saint Paul , wherein was placed the l o ut Shrine Of the Saxo n saint Erk e nwa d. It was in digging the foundations Of the stupendous and magniﬁcent cathe

Of . dral , which had been finished in the reign Henry I II , o f o o covering the site th e f rmer po r structure , that the excavators employed by Sir Christo pher Wren came upon a % in large cemetery, wherein first lay the Saxons graves lined with b o ulders Of chalk o r in coffins of h o llowed stone .

Beneath these were the graves Of Britons and Of Ro mans , O f the latter the deepest, but apparently the same period, when conquerors and conquered lived and died together in the city . The graves o fthe Brit o ns co ntained little but the wo oden or b o ne pins with which the w o olle n shrouds had been faste n ed r o u n d the dead ; in the deeper R o m an graves o o r were f und funeral urns , lamps , lachrymatories ( tear o phials) , and some sacriﬁcial and ther glass and earthenware vessels o f great beauty Of design and col o ur . The little o Of o n bl cks j asper, porphyry , and marble bel ging to a tesse o o lated pavement were als f und , and numerous glass rings o to and beads , pr bably belonging the Britons , as well as TH E FLE E T RIVER . I 9

’ - b o ars tusks and deer horns half sawn through , and coins Of

o . different emperors , including C nstantine — But we must pass that period the early time o fLudgate and the Hill— and must leave Canute the Dane to make o o n Lond n str nger, and to i crease its importance , till th e o o Norman c mes to l rd it within the walls , and build there ’ o palaces , and castles , and bishops mansi ns and fairer o churches, and to bring the legends and the sp rts and o f o pastimes chivalry int th e broad streets, with their quaint, l o w o Of o w h uses w od, thatched with stra or reeds , and o fronted with beams and c loured plaster, overhanging the o f o fo otways . The great enemy Lond n in these days is o fire , and the wells and bro ks and conduits are the chief fo r n o safeguard , they are umerous , fr m the Tower Ditch to ’ - o Fleet, and from the Clerk s well to Walbr ok and Lang f r . f bourne The wide hill o Ludgate is thronged , o the m h s City flourishes , and Willia King a granted to William o o Bish p a charter ensuring its w nted liberties and privileges , o as they were o rdained by Edward King and C nfess o r . o f o o But the castle the Norman n ble d minates all , and the Of l power feudal ru e is seen in tower and portcullis , and — pierced battlements in pro cessi o n s Of pr o ud knights and o o and fighting bish ps , in the bravery Of caparis ned steed flauntin o o f g penn n , the songs friars and the chants Of o f fla o ns monks , the chatter dames and damsels with g and - Of - at- water pitchers , the clatter men arms and the thrumming Oflutes and bow-strings at the shops by Ludgate in B o wyer R o w o r , where the armourers have their stalls , by the banks Of n n the Fleet , that runs brawli g and foami g in the valley

- and al o ng by the walls and the water gate o fBridewell .

TH E FLE ET R IVE R .

The Fleet was well named the river o fwells at the time o f fo r we speak it , it was a clear and pellucid stream , fit tributary o fa fish ful Thames but it appears to have acquired — a bad reputati o n at a very early date no t fo r its o wn in n a here t qualities , but bec use the populati o n which had gathered abo ut this impo rtant neighbourh o od converted what was once a clear stream into a dirty channel , by which 2 0 LUDGATE H ILL : PAST AN D PRESENT . the refuse and garbage of the houses might be carried to the a 1 2 0 Thames . Even s early as 9 we find the White Friars , near the Temple , and the Black Friars , who were nearer to m o o o f Ludgate Hill , co plaining that the evil d urs the Fleet were so n o isome as to prevail over the smell of the incense . This led to a cleansing and scouring and deepening o f the river (a pro cess wh ich had to be repeated o n many succeed o n o f ing occasi s) , and thus in the reign the Second Edward this swift little stream had become indeed the Fleet river, “ ’ r mer able to carry ten o twelve Ships navies at once , with ” “ to chandise, that were wont to come th e aforesaid Bridge ” o of Fleet . Of c o urse these Ships were little m re than canal boats o fsmall draught but the river was o fsome imp o rt fo r ance, after leaving its source at Hampstead Hills it was ’ ’ ’ o — W W fed by numer us wells Clerk s ell , Skinner s ell , Fags o o o f o o Well , Tode Well , and ther wells at the N rth L nd n from which it was surnamed the River o fWells . The tide o o no w fl wed fr m the Thames , where is Bridge Street, Lud u o o f gate Circ s , and Farringd n Street , past the prison the to o o o fH o l bo rn Fleet, and the f t Hill , where it united with rn o ne the Ol d Bo u e. Here it was afterwards crossed by of — f was four sto ne bridges the principal o which Fleet Bridge , o uniting Ludgate Hill with Fleet Street, and , as Stow inf rms u s o r o f o , made repaired at the charges John Wells , May r o o 1 1 o of L nd n in the year 43 . This d ubtless replaced an earlier bridge of timber ; and Fleet Bridge , with the other two o ne bridges , at Bridewell , the other at Fleet Lane , pro vided fo r the traffic o fthis main approach to Londo n from a o f o the West, at the time that it w s the centre the R yal

- o f r . C urt, and the trysting place o the nobility But all fo f ef rts to keep the Fleet River clean were inef ectual , and it eventually became k nown as the Fleet Ditch . The river had ceased to take sufﬁcient water fro m its various feeders o fd to keep the channel clear , the increased number wellings had diverted the water o f the wells from their former course , and it became little else than a stagnant creek Of f r the Thames , a receptacle o the ﬁlth and garbage of the neighbourhood . was The attempted restoration unsuccessful , but the ex c avatio ns brought to light some interesting relics in the ANCIENT FORTRESSES . 2 1

o f o Shape R man pottery, and , deeper still , Roman coms and n o o silver ri g money . At Holb rn Bridge were f und two o brazen Lares , ab ut four inches long (a Bacchus and a o f Ceres) , and a number Saxon ornaments , seals , spurs , and o c ruc iﬁx s weap ns , and several later medals , crosses and e .

But we must give Time the slip again , and, recalling the o o f peri d the babbling and crystal stream, look across its channel to that further corner there by the back of Sir ’ Po l do re o — y de Keyser s hotel, where sto d the castle, palace , — o f n prison, the remnant which has been known to livi g memory as the place of punishment fo r idle apprentices and sturdy vagab o nds who no w haunt the casual wards o f the more attractive workhouses .

BRIDEWELL .

As we have seen , the Old Wall encircling the City may be said to have commenced at the Tower and to have com pl ete d the circuit at about the foot of the present Bl ackfriars o n o f Bridge, the Ludgate Hill side the Fleet River . At o f o the corner the wall at this sp t was a fortress , th e remains o f which , when it was pulled down , at a very early date, were used in building a palace named Bridewell , after the

b . w f . o o f Well o St Bridget cl se y Bride ell , like the rest the o f o buildings that magnitude , was both palace and f rtress . o o o f It st d, and the last remains it are hardly yet cleared o n o f away , j ust the other side the Fleet River, which o o f o brawled past its walls , and f rmed a kind m at, giving — . o access to the building by a water gate A frowning, b de to — ful pile enough it would seem modern eyes vast, yet o f o w lowering, full bravery , Sh and rude luxury , but with o a menacing l o o k outward t wards the common people . A h o Mo untfi u it o n strong ld like that of q the Thames bank , ’ o f Ba nard s south of the hill Ludgate , and y Castle, further ’ W o o o still , between Paul s harf and Puddle D ck , at the b tt m ’ o f o . what is now kn wn as St Andrew s Hill , in the district “ o f o b the R yal Wardrobe, a out which we will inquire — presently . All three of these places Bridewell , Mount ’ fi uit o r Mo ntfic h et Ba nard s — q , , and y Castle represented o o o o f o N rman d minati n in the time the Conquer r William , o o ut wh se realm was built, like his castles , of the material 2 2 H : AN D LUDGATE ILL PAST PRESENT.

taken from both Roman and Saxon memorials . The barons h is who came in train were quick in asserting their claims , Mo ntﬁc h et and among them were and Baynard , the ﬁrst , to o f probably proud enough defy even William Normandy, o losing his place and local habitation , the sec nd holding the castle named after him , and standing nearer to the broad o f stream Thames , until after the reign of John, when th e Ba nards o y had forfeited their p ssession , and the castle had o n Fitz wal ters been conferred the , descendants of the Earls - o f of Clare , and hereditary standard bearers to the City

Lond o n . Bridewell continued to be a royal palace till the death

o f . Henry VII I , and it was here that he lodged (having had a way made connecting the building with the Black Friars) ’ when the Pope s Legate and the pro ud Wo lsey sat at the shameful trial o f Queen Catharine . It is little to be o o f w ndered at , therefore , that the daughter Catherine Should

Shun the place , or that by the time that Edward VI . came to the throne it was deserted and fast going to decay . It was to Bishop Ridley that the benevolent scheme fo r c o n o fo r o verting it int a refuge the h useless is to be attributed, and his curious but suggestive letter to the Secretary of

State ( Cecil , afterwards Lord Burleigh) is worth notice ,

G . ood Mr Cecil , I must be a suitor to you in our good ’

o . Master Christ s cause . I beseech you to be go d to Him sir l to o The matter is , , alas He hath ain long abroad (as o f you do know) without lodging, in the streets London ,

o . o w A both hungry , naked , and c ld N , thanks be to lmighty G o d are , the citizens willing to refresh Him , and to give

o . Him meat , drink , cl thing, and ﬁring ; but , alas Sir, they lack

fo r . I o o ne sa lodging Him For n s me house , I dare y, they .

r o n o . a e fain to lodge three families under e ro f Sir , there ’ ’ o f S is a large , wide , empty house th e King s Majesty called o d Bridewell, that would wonderfully well serve to l ge Christ o to in , if He might ﬁnd such go d friends in the Court pro in H i o o o f cure s cause . Surely I have such a go d opini n ’ the King s Majesty , that if Christ had such faithful and n wh o fo r hearty frie ds , would heartily speak Him , He Should ’ ’

o . und ubtedly speed at the King s Majesty s hands Sir, I m o u have promised y brethren , the citizens , to move y ,

2 D E H E 4 LU GAT ILL : PAST AN D PRES NT .

’ R E AYNARD S CASTL .

’ Ba nard s The story Of y Castle , and all the activ ities, o intrigues , and conspiracies that were ass ciated wi th it, o o f o f f rms a large section the History England, with which h as Ludgate Hill always been prominently identiﬁed . When o - o ut o f the long , narr w windowed , frowning pile went the — family of Bainardus for what reason who can tell ? except that the baron may have b een another o f the haughty “ knights who dared to quarrel with his liege , the Bastard —it Fitz wal te rs o f went to the , who were also Lords Dun

mow . Robert Fitzwalter, with his great retinue armed

and in ﬂaming surcoats , presented himself periodically at M Ludgate , there to receive from the ayor and citizens the o f o great banner L ndon , which he was entitled to bear to o f o r . the wars , if war there Should be , even the threat it He was a proud and puissant knight but the story o f h is

o n . d family is a tragic e His aughter Matilda , one of the most beautiful maidens in England, attracted the base l attentions of the false and icentious King John , who ’ Ba nar s perhaps met her at some high festival in y d Castle . ’ It was in accordance with the monarch s detestable character was that he should urge a dishonourable suit, which resented indignantly both by the father and the daughter ; but John h is was at once a fury and a sneak . He waited, and nursed revenge and plotted , until he was able to drive Fitzwalter

to . take refuge in France The daughter, then at his mercy , is — was taken away , and, it said , died from poison murdered

h ad . by her royal suitor , whose passion turned to hate It o n o o f o l d is added , the auth rity an chronicler, that her body was buried between the two pillars in the church at ’

. Ba nar s was Dunmow , in Essex y d Castle to have been ’ o demolished to c mplete the King s revenge, but the war an with France followed quickly , d in the next year the encamped armies o f the English and French kings lay o a pposite each other, during truce , one on either side of

. o f a river Tired awaiting the signal for battle, an English knight challenged any one of the o pposing force to break

. A n a lance with him . No sooner said than done n u attended knight from the French camp came across the ’ B Y A D S 2 STORY OF A N R CASTLE . 5

o river, and having quickly reached the bank , at once m unted o a horse , rode at the challenger , and with one tremend us o f h is was blow lance , which splintered to pieces with the o shock , hurled both the antag nist and his horse to the o ne o f ground . With his usual feeble profane oaths , John ,

who knew what prowess meant, and , in spite of his villainy was o u t himself no mean adept in the art of war, cried , “ ” He were a king indeed who had such a knight . These

words were heard by the bystanders , who had recognised o in the successful warrior the renowned Fitzwalter , to wh m o n o o they were duly reported , and the f ll wing day he returned to the English camp , where he again sought the o o f o n fav ur the S vereign who had so bitterly wro ged him , ’ o Ba nard s and was graci usly receiv ed, his possessions , and y

Castle among them , being restored to the family. This is h as O the story , and it even been hinted that the challenge f o f the English knight, the response Fitzwalter , the defeat, al l o f a the restoration to favour, and the rest it, was planned ’ itz wal ter s in o to thing among F friends, rder get the doughty o n champion back again . Only these grounds, and with o the knowledge of what followed , can we c nsent to receive i what s after all a rather vague narrative . The King could not restore the daughter of the man whom he had wronged, and there is something revolting in the idea of the father ’ kneeling at the murderer s feet for the sake o f regaining o o r yal favour and w rldly wealth . The tale does not corre s o nd o f itz wal t r p either with what we know Robert F e , who was at the head o fthe barons whose demands Obtained fro m wa h John the Great Charter at Runnymede . It s he w o ’ headed the knights when they went (probably fro m Baynard s Castle) to the King at the Temple to i n sist o n the c o n t o cessions , and in the appeal to arms which forced John itz wal ter o o f yield, F was chief of the barons , c mmander their ”

o f o f . forces , Marshal the Army of G d and o Holy Church One o f the ﬁrst things they did when they came fr o m o was to to Bedf rd enter the City by Aldgate , and then begin to plunder the h ouses o f the Ro yalists and the Jews (who o were usually mulcted on both sides), even taking the st nes to and materials of their dwellings repair the City wall , which it was necessary to strengthen in case of siege . In 2 6 D H : A E LU GATE ILL PAST ND PR SENT .

1 86 two o 5 , years bef re the Spanish Armada , and when

Ludgate Hill was entirely rebuilt, there was found embedded am o ng the stones o f the ancient structure o ne bearing in “ Hebrew characters the words , This is the ward (or home) ” o f so n . Rabbi Moses, the of the honorable Rabbi Isaac ’ In 1 4 2 8 Baynard s Castle Shared the fate which so often befell the more important as well as the meaner buildings o f so o f a city composed largely h o uses co nstructed o f timber . o It was alm st entirely destroyed by ﬁre . Having been after o fG wards granted to Humphrey Plantagenet, Duke loucester , h e rebuilt it , but on his attainder it again became Crown f . was property , and by Henry VI granted to the Duke o o Y rk , who made it the scene of his ambitious plotting to secure the throne , and gathered above armed men A f within its walls . fter he was Slain at the Battle o Wakeﬁeld o f so n the castle became the residence his Edward, his w o o a wido Cicely g ing to live in a mansi n close by , ne r ’ Paul s Wharf. ’ It is in the garden at Baynard s Castle that Shakespeare lays the scene between the Duke o fYo rk and the Earls o f W a Kin [fem Salisbury and arwick , in the pl y of g y

Yo rk N o w o o l o r o fS a i r and Warwi , my g d ds l sbu y ck , O ur Si e e r en e e me l ea e mpl supp d d , giv v , In i o e a to a i e th s cl s w lk s t sfy mys lf, In ra in o r o n o n o fm i e c v g y u pi i y t tl , ’ W i is in a ib e to En an ro n h ch f ll l , gl d s c w .

’ Il arwick What pl ain p ro cee ding is m o re pl ain than this ? H enr o ai th e ro n ro o n o fGa n y d th cl m c w f m J h u t , Th e fo u rth so n Y o rk cl aims it fro m th e thi rd ’ T L o ne i e ai o no t re n ill i l s ssu f ls , his sh uld ig I ai no t et ﬂ o ri h e in e e t f ls y , but u s s th

A nd in o n air i o f a o . thy s s , f sl ps such st ck T en a er S a r nee w e o e er h , f th lisbu y, k l t g th ; A nd in this private pl o t b e we th e ﬁrst That Shall salute o ur rightful so ve re ig n n h r n With ho o u r o fh is birth right to t e c o w .

’ o fBa nard s In the gloomy but stately pile y Castle, which , o f with Crosby Hall , was then the most important the City fo r palaces , the treacherous Richard waited the ripening of ’ Y ARD s E 2 BA N CASTL . 7

o the plot that brought him t the throne . Here he held counsel with the Duke o f Buckingham an d the other ro creatures whom he used and crushed . After the p ’ n P o o clamatio at aul s Cr ss , and the address fr m which the o f reverend preacher never recovered , but the shame Of ’ n Ba nard s which he pi ed and died , it was at y Castle that the wily usurper received his emissaries , and , as Shakespeare represents it, kept up a Show of reluctance and Of humility which was so sub tly acted that we might almost imagine he had deceived himself and his instruments as well as the I n o f o — o n o f pe o ple . the gallery the great r om each side o — o f him a bish p stands the crouching, sinister ﬁgure the o false Gloucester, and in subdued , pensive tone says , in m ck rejectio n Of the offered crown

Al as why w o uld yo u h eap th e se c ares o n me ? I am u nﬁt fo r stat e and majesty I do bese e ch yo u tak e it no t amiss I nn no r I no t e o o u ca o t wil l yi ld t y .

o o f We kn w the end the story, and may read how it was in the “ high chamber next the chapel that Richard had th e Great Seal delivered to him on the day o fh is co ro nation ; o o o o but retributi n so n foll wed , and the Tud r was the next n o f r o l d to w o n tena t the g and pile , hich he to k such a liki g 1 0 1 b i that in 5 he almost entirely re u lt it . Doubtless its o o o situati n was pleasant . Its p siti n on the river bank , when th e Thames was the great highway fro m Greenwich d b o to Westminster, and its seclude , eautiful , and spaci us - o gardens , courtyards, and tilting gr unds made it a stately o - n residence, th ugh it was then prison like and forbiddi g in

r n o o o n . the f o t that l ked the Thames . Henry VII , with “ b no r so o great taste, made it, not em attled , str ngly fortiﬁed , - o castle like, but far more beautiful and commodi us , for the o f o f entertainment any prince great estate, such as Philip o f o o f Austria, or the ambassad rs from the King the o R mans , who were received here when they visited this ” o t c un ry . ’ It was by water fro m Baynard s Castle that Prince n o f n a n He ry Gree wich , fterwards He ry VII I . , and his o f bride, Catherine Aragon , were conducted in a Splendid 2 8 D A LU GATE H ILL : PAST ND PRESENT .

to W procession the royal palace at estminster , when the o o May r and comm nalty of London , in barges garnished

with standards , streamers , and pennons of their device , gave them their attendance ; and there in the palace were such o martial feats , such valiant jousts , such vigor us tourneys , f such fierce fights at the barriers , as before that time was o no man had in remembrance . ’ But Baynard s Castle went finally o ut o f the royal

o n o f . possessi n in the reig Edward VI , when it became the o f n residence Sir William Syd ey , the Royal Chamberlain , o m W and fr his hands passed to illiam Herbert, ﬁrst Earl o f Pembroke , who lived there in almost regal magniﬁcence

o . with his C untess Anne, sister of Queen Catherine Parr ’ At Edward s death the earl , who was a cautious nobleman , was induced to Sign the famous do cument in favour o f the o f saw claims Lady Jane Grey , but backed out when he the n danger, and was particularly practical in helpi g to proclaim ’ m t Ba nard s t e . Queen Mary, whose suppor ers at y Castle

Thenceforward his caution seems not to have forsaken him , for he became a prominent personage in all the Court o f pageants, was appointed to receive Philip Spain on his arrival , was present at the royal marriage at Winchester in 1 6 5 4 , and three months afterwards came up to London to the ﬁrst Parliament under the newly-married sovereigns to his ’ o o f Ba nard s mansi n y Castle , followed by a retinue of two thousand horsemen in velvet coats with three laces o f gold o and g ld chains , besides sixty gentlemen in blue coats, with se his badge of the green dragon . Again we e him at the o o f c ronation Queen Elizabeth , who appointed him Master o f o the H rse , and (h e certainly was a careful man) accepted an invitation to supper at the grand old mansion by Ludgate ’

. At o Hill ten O clock at night (a late hour for th se times) , after a sumptuous entertainment, he handed the Queen into ’ her state barge at the water-gate o f Baynard s Castle to the o f o f o f sound music, and amidst the blaze a grand display

ﬁreworks , and thus attended her to Whitehall , surrounded o f by a ﬂotilla of boats , and cheered by th e acclamations fo r the citizens . These were rare times Ludgate Hill , and ’ Ba n r y a d s Castle was then in its palmy days . The earl was s n w succeeded by his o Henry , hose countess was the ’ L WH A 2 PAU S ARF ND PUDDLE DOCK . 9

’ ’ ’ o Sidney s sister , Pembroke s mother of B en J nson s verse . ’ The name o fBaynard s Castle no w only remains in that

‘ of the ward which is called Castle Baynard, unless we accept the curious allegation that in its early history a tract f - o r o well watered land, land furnished with springs , beyond o o o f Paddingt n , belonged to the f unders the family , and was ’ o as Ba nard s no w o . kn wn y Water, c rrupted into Bayswater

’ PAUL S WH ARF AND P U D DLE D OCK .

’ W o f Next to Paul s harf, and still in the ward Castle

- Baynard , is the ancient Puddle Dock , once a water gate and its o r wharf, named either after owner because it was a - fo r so watering place horses , and became trampled and o f puddled . There are allusions to it in the later days o fo r to Elizabeth , and no w nder , it was close the theatre at o o Blackfriars , where Shakespeare and Ben J ns n met , and ’ o f o o which we shall have to speak presently . In J ns n s ” o Barth lomew Fair we read of Puddle Wharf,

’ W i l a e e a e o l i to a it o ur A o h ch p c w ll m k b d w th c ll byd s , ” AS th e an i e is o ur S e o B ks d st s .

“ And in Hudibras it is spoken of as though pers o ns arrested fo r debt were sent there o n their way to pris o n to Gil ts u r perhaps either Newgate, Bridewell, the p Street “ r i o o . w h s Compter, the Fleet Shad ell , too, in Eps m ” “ sa IS Wells makes Clodpole y, not this better than anything in that stinking town ?” To which Lucia n % o f retorts , Sti king town I had rather be Countess Puddle ” D o ck than Queen o f Sussex . M o re interesting still is the reference to the place in Shakespeare s will, in which he bequeaths to his daughter , Susannah Hall, his house in the “ Black friars abutting upon a stree te leading down to ’ Wh arffe o n Puddle , the east part, right against the King s ’ o o r Majesty s Wardr be and now , late , in the tenure o r o f o ne o r h is o r occupation William Ireland , of assignee ” o o n assignees . This descripti n is in the c veyance , but the “ o will says , I gyve , will , bequeath , and devise unt my o r daughter, Susannah Hall all that messuage tene o ment , with the appurtenances , wherein one J hn Robinson 30 LUDGATE H ILL : PAST A N D PRES E NT .

sc ituat dwelleth , , lying , and being in the Blackfriars , in

o . Lond n, near the Wardrobe The street leading do wn to ’

. o Puddle Wharf is the present St Andrew s Hill , s called

o o f . fr m the Church St Andrew in the Wardrobe , but the

o l d name was Puddle Dock H ill . It was in 1 6 1 2 that Shakespeare bought the house in the place afterwards its Of called, from proprietor, Ireland Yard, and part the h o use was built over a great gate leading to a building

occupied by Henry , Duke of Northumberland . ’ Cl o se to bo th Baynard s Castle and Puddle Dock was fo r fo r the harbour corn coming from the Cinque Ports, and centuries the successful rival of Billingsgate as a landing place fo r ﬁsh and other commodities . It is said to have ’ f r R z a R e ina taken its name o Queenhithe , o p g (Queen s bank o r o f o harbour) , from the fact its having become r yal n o o property, and the dues having bee app rti ned by King

o to . o o J hn his mother , the queen of Henry II , fr m wh m it descended to succeeding queens as belonging to them to o f o ne o f specially . But here we seem have an example those peculiar involutio ns o f title which are a frequent t puzzle o antiquaries and etymologists . There can be no doubt that in very early times the place was called Corn w hithe, and Sto surmises that Queenhithe may have been

o o f o rnh ith e . so a corrupti n C If , the royal proprietor may o f o o have taken advantage the c rrupti n , and confirmed it in o rder to fix the association between the place and its o is wner . But there another possible derivation which the arch aeol o gists seem to have overl o o ked . It is possible that — the place was originally named Querne h ith e querne being fo r - fo r o Saxon a hand mill , and afterwards probably a c rn f so o . mill , that we find querne and c rn used indif erently ’

o f . Ro w On the other Side St Paul s , beyond Bowyer ’ (Ludgate Hill) and al o ng Av e Mary Lane by Paul s Gate in C h ea e o to West p , was the c rn market , next the shambles , — and here in the spot which would be the extreme end of — o o f . l e Patern ster Row was the church St Michael Querne , Bl a um o o r . d St Michael ad (at the c rne), destroyed in the

Great Fire , and never rebuilt . It seems likely that near the co rn harb o ur there may in early times have been a ﬂo ur

- mill , and that Querne hithe may have been easily turned into

2 H L : A D 3 LUDGATE IL PAST N PRESENT .

- 6s. o s. 1 2 s. o s a 4 a yard ; satins at to ; camlets 3 . piece d s. s. 2 . d 8s. sarcenets , 4 to 4 ; amask , Surely the Queen to o must have had her wardrobe here , and we have only to o f remember the relative value money in those days , when the carcass o f an ox could be bought for ﬁv e -and -twenty

shillings , and a sheep for about three , to compute h o w

luxuriously the Court dressed , and what ﬁne birds were

o f e . h o made such ﬁne feath rs Feather beds , wit b lsters , 65 1 8d. for the King , cost . each ; a pair of double o o u n s led Spanish shoes (they were long in the t es then),

d. 1 s. o f 6s d. lined, cost 4 a pair black leather boots . 8 - 1 s. 1 0 s a . hats and ostrich feathers . piece Sometimes the ’ Wa Ba r King lodged at the rdrobe , perhaps while yna d s was a Castle being cleaned down , and then there w s a wash

ing bill . Of course , we must take the wardrobe to be that

of the royal household, and the cost will not be so

extravagant, especially as other items were charged in the o - — am unt ; for instance , that of book binding for we ﬁnd an o Bau w n entry of z s. paid to Piers d y ( Peter Baldwin he “ n would be now) , stationer , for binding, gilding , and dressi g ’ 1 6s o f . a book called Titus Livius , and each for a Bible , a ’ ‘ ’ o . Fr issard , Josephus , and othe r books This would seem to imply that stationers had already settled in the locality which they have occupied ever Since ’ near Ludgate Hill and St . Paul s ; and we must remember that at that date ( 1 48 1 ) copper - plate printing had been

invented in Germany thirty years before , and that Caxton had been ﬁve years at the Almonry at Westminster with h is press for printing books with movable types . The lever that was to move the world and change the face o f society An is had already been applied . d here close by the place that may be called the representative core and centre of that great power of the press which followed in due course . ’ The King s Printers , whose House, which formerly stood in

- Printing House Square , and gav e it its name , are no longer

no r t . there ; does the house i self exist John Bill , who

o f . printed the Royal proclamations Charles I I , and the L ndo n az ette no ﬁrst o G , established in that reign , had ’ o f successor in the Square . The last the King s printers wh o had their house here were Charles Eyre and William ’ ST. PAUL S . 33

’ Strahan and in 1 7 7 0 the King s Printing -h o use was re o u G moved to New Street , G gh Square , where eorge Eyre and Andrew Strahan succeeded to it . Of the great business o o o fEyre and Sp ttisw ode , which is still in the neighbour o no ho o d , and near to Ludgate Hill , all the w rld k ws . ’ n - o But before th e King s Printi g h use had been removed , - o a vast p o wer had appeared in Printing H use Square . On 1 88 o f Times the I st o fJanuary, 7 , the first number the was issued fro m the pri nting-o ffic e that had there been se t up by 1 80 Times o Mr . Walter . In 3 the became the most imp rt ant newspaper in the world ; for many years exercised a o power which was recognised , and was s metimes feared , o all over Europe , and was the precursor of the enorm us influence o fthe newspaper press at the present time . After ” the Great Fire the R o yal Wardro be was rem o v ed to the

o to . Sav y , and afterwards Buckingham Street The last u o f u Master was Ralph , D ke Montag e and it was abolished

In 1 7 0 9 .

’

LD T P . ROUND O S . AUL S

But returni ng to the n o w half- demolished b u t traditi o nal ’ n o o o o o . eighb urh d , just bey nd Ludgate t wards St Paul s , ’ o to w as we c me again Paul s Wharf, which Old Sto describes “ — a large landing place with a c o mm o n stair up o n the River ’ e nd o f r Thames , at the a street called Paul s Wha f Hill , ’ ” which runneth do wn fro m Paul s Chain . Here within a great gate once stood a number o fhouses said to have been called in the leases granted b y the Dean and Chapter the ’ i n a D a w o r a . C mera , Diana s Ch mber The legendary reasons fo r e this name being given to the place , as stat d by Maitland ,

o o b . are curi us and highly impr ba le , Viz , that there existed n in o o f there a spacious buildi g the f rm a labyrinth , which n r f r o had been co structed there b y Hen y I I . o the c nceal o f o o n o ment the fair R sam d Cliff rd, and that there was a ’ r o t Ba nar subte ranean passage fr m the place o y d s Castle . Maitland declares that fo r a l o ng time there remained some — evidence o f tedi o us turnings and windings and that is — exceedi ngly pro bable fo r within living memory s o me o f th e adjace n t co urts and alleys were mazy en o ugh but why o o o n o r R sam nd Cliff rd Should have been called Dia a , why D H : A 34 LU GATE I LL PAST ND PRESENT .

t ’ there should have been a labyrinth close o St . Paul s to h imitate t at at Wo o dst o ck , when the place was full Of prying n o t o eyes and bustling activity , is easily explained . Pr bably o u there may have been s me b ilding used by the ecclesiastics ,

and even called the Diana Chamber, as has been ingeni o usly o o l d o n suggested , from the designs of s me tapestry the walls , o r even from a tradition o f the Temple of Diana that was to o n o f supposed have been th e site the Cathedral . Fo r ’ n f — we are o w amidst the dependencies o St. Paul s here In ’ — Paul s Chain so called from the chain o r barrier drawn across the ro adway to prevent trafﬁc during the time o f o n Divine Service , the barrier the north side being a wooden ’ beam . It was at Paul s Chain that the famous arithmetician c al i ra h ist 1 660 and g p Edward Cocker lived in , where he taught the arts which he professed “ in an extraordinary ’ o n f manner at h is dwelling the south Side o St . Paul s ” “ ’ A Church , and it was here that he wrote The Pen s S ” c endanc o f ne y, a remarkable illustration his skill , but o by which h is name was less remembered than by h is arith h as to o metical accuracy , which even come down us traditi n ” ally in the phrase according to Cocker . In Godliman ’ ’ o Street, Paul s Chain , was Paul s Bakeh use , which has left o its name to the court o n which it st od . Here the bread ’ fo r its the church and clergy was baked , and at Paul s ’ o to Co m Brewhouse, at the c rner of the entrance Doctors o mons fr m the Churchyard , the beer was supplied to those wh o Churchmen , like Bishop Still , loved ale whether new ’

r . o o o n o f o old . St Paul s C ffee House st od the site h e ’ was o o brewery, and that f ll wed by the Paul s Head Tavern , d adv en and afterwar s , as Sam Weller says in the inimitable ’ - l n o f . o n e o e o tures Mr Pickwick , Bookseller s at c rner, hot ”

o o . the ther, and porters in the middle as t uts for licenses But we must aband o n all notions o f the present aspect f ’ o St . Paul s and the Churchyard if we desire to picture — no t o f b u t its to ourselves the Cathedral that Ethelbert , f Mel itu o . o s success r The old Saxon church , which was o E rk e nwal d o h first bish p and the f urt , was entirely destroyed so o by fire , William the C nqueror began to construct a vast pile up o n the site in 1 0 83 and it was again inj ured by 1 1 o finish d — fire in 37 , bef re it was really e for the building

’ O D PAU L s. L ST. 37

o f o was no t completed till the reign Henry II I . It to k nearly two centuries to c o mplete such a stupendous work in “ ” days when kings so often wanted sudden benevolences

f . . o money , that even the Church had to wait Old St ’ — Paul s was an enormous building inelegant, and without the grander and purer lines and beautiful ornamentation o f which distinguish the Gothic architecture other cathedrals , but vast and imposing ; and with an interior which was o ne o o f regarded as of the finest sights in the w rld, because its o its great size , many gorge us shrines , and the numerous o f o f multitude priests and acolytes who ficiated at the altar , the chapels , the chantries , and the choir . o l d n t To begin with , the Cathedral did o stand in the same directi o n as the present o ne . The west front o f the ancient structure came much further towards Ludgate , and two the building stood, as it were , more square with the o f main thoroughfares Chepe and Ludgate Hill . It covered a mu c h so o o greater Space, for its extent was en rm us that that alone was sufficient to make any pile o f building im posing . The entire edifice measured 69 0 feet in length by 1 0 o o f s 3 in breadth , and ab ve the great height the spaciou o o o f 2 0 o ro f r se a timber spire to a height 5 feet, surm unted o not only by a ball and cr ss , but by a large gilt eagle , which served as a weathercock . The wall which bounded the churchyard ran along by the present streets o f Ave Maria

Lane, Paternoster Row , Old Change , Carter Lane , and Creed

- Lane , and in this ample , partly enclosed area were included to many buildings and many appendages the church , the ’ — most histo rically impo rtant o f which was Paul s Cross a structure the antiquity o fwhich is not to be determined by

o . o any rec rd It st od on the north side , at a spot now

f . marked , within the present garden o the Cathedral It ’ was at Paul s Cro ss that the citizens assembled fo r the o — f lkmote or for any public purpose either political , social , o r l o ecclesiastical ; and afterwards proc amati ns , State o n o o r serm ns , denu ciations , declarati ns of allegiance , even the trial and condemnation of public offenders , were co nstantly associated with this famous landmark o f Old o Lond n . The early history o f the o l d Cathedral was o ne o f c o n LUDGATE H I LL : PAST AN D PRESENT.

tinual architectural restoration , and the growth of artistic taste which had been developed in the reign of the Third Henry was nowhere more practically exempliﬁed than at ’ St . Paul s , under that energetic Churchman and skilful o A designer Bishop R ger, who was surnamed Niger . new was 1 2 2 1 1 2 0 steeple completed in , and a new choir in 4 , o d and the Bish p depended not irectly upon King, Pope , or

Prelate , but indirectly upon the people , and very artfully he h is went to work . He induced nearly all brother bishops in England to issue letters to their clergy granting indul ” gen c es for a certain number of days to all those persons wh o o , having penance to perform and being penitent, Sh uld a assist in the building . Such w s the alacrity with which ’ these appeals were answered, that St . Paul s , the tiny

o f . G o n as o f Church St reg ry , standi g it were in the arms - sub the mother church at the south west corner, and the

terranean Church of St . Faith , which occupied the space

beneath the crypt , were soon completed, and pictures, shrines , o vestments , and sacred vessels and rnaments for the high

altar, all richly dight with gold , Silver, and precious stones , were among the costly presents that told o f the general interest in making the great Cathedral wo rthy o fits position m in the very centre of the English etropolis . Charles “ Knight, in his London , has called up a picture of Old ’ St . Paul s in t he beginning o f the 1 sth century which is

exceedingly graphic .

We are to imagine ourselves no w passing up the hill . u s o Behind lies the m derately broad and rapid Fleet River,

with its numerous vessels riding quietly at anchor . We SO o pass through Lud Gate, and to the entrance int the

Cathedral enclosure . Th e place is crowded with people, o f chiefly the poorer classes , who are being fed by the f o f v l ecclesiastical o ficers . It is evidently a day high festi a , n o o f less , indeed, than the festival the conversion of the — t. patron saint S Paul . Before we pass through the sumptu o us western gates of the church let us cast a glance ’ at the Bishop s palace where L o ndon House Yard since h is stands . Here it was that Edward I I I . and queen were Smith fiel d so lodged after the great tournament in , when n o f ma y goodly knights appeared, the charger each knight

0 H : A E E 4 LUDGATE ILL PAST N D PR S NT .

o f chantries , scattered along the entire length the nave , — n aisles , and transepts seve ty or eighty in number ; whilst grandly towering over all we hear the chant and responses i of the choral multitude . The Cathedral is now rap dly b e

. r o e coming full Noblemen , war i rs , citizens , and labour rs , o f r — o f arrayed in all kinds mate ials satin , damask , cloth o g ld and Silver , and the plain but good old English broad — clo th of different colours their dresses exhibiting every o o o variety of fashion , as little h ods , long g wns , Sh rt coats , - o o n long piked Shoes , parti coloured h se , and rname ted , in so many cases , with gems and embroidery , that , as Knighton “ o to observes , it is imp ssible distinguish the rich from the ” l w N o r o o . po r , the high from the are the ladies generally o l ess fantastically o r less sumptu usly arrayed . The prepar atio ns fo r the coming festivity are now begun . N o iseless to fro figures are gliding and , setting up additional tapers in every part of the church where there is ro o m and convenience f r o placing them ; but a Short time elapses , and hundreds o f such lights are burning in every directi o n . Hark % the sound of horns bl o wn more l o udly than skilfully reverberates ’ o o W thr ugh the pile ; and , as if it were s me izard s signal , there is a general cessation o f the devo tional business o f o the pl ace . The dev tee starts from his knees , the penitent o h is o sinner wipes the tears fr m cheeks , the grave bec me o as o gay , the gl omy look cheerful , all eagerly press f rward and line the interco mmunicatio ns o f the nave ; first in a ro w o single , then a second behind that, then a third , till b th fo r aisles are filled , and little more than a lane is left the passage o fthe c o ming pro cession down the central part o f f v to the nave . The o ficers with their gilded staves ha e bestir themselves even to keep that clear . Again and again blow the horns , the western doors are thrown back, and a o f o f o strange procession enters , consisting a group h rn b w n o f - lo ers , the a body ruddy checked yeomen and others , o n o f do e bearing, a kind frame raised aloft, the , which the family o f Baud are bound yearly to Offer in processi o n at o to o n the high altar o n this day , in additi n a buck the

o o f . o summer feast called the C mmemoration St Paul , b th n f to bei g in lieu o certain lands granted Sir William Baud , I e n in the third year o f Edward . , by the Church , to be ’

LD . O ST PAUL S . 4 1

a o f o r n h m o i a . cl sed within his p rk T g , in Essex Imme diatel o do e - y bef re the bearers marches proudly the keeper , o r o o n huntsman , clad in green c at and ho d , and beari g o f o beneath his belt a sheaf peacock arr ws, in his hand a o f bow, and, as Chaucer sings one of his characters

A nut ea h ad h e i a ro n i a e h d w th b w v s g , Of o o ra o h e e al l th e a e w dc ft c uld w ll us g .

On moves the procession towards the choir , which it so o f enters , and to the steps the high altar at its extremity .

There it is met by the Dean and Chapter , arrayed in rich copes and robes , jewelled and embroidered, and wearing n f garlands of roses o their heads . The head o the do e is v o is now di ided fr m the body, and , whilst the body at once o ff o n o sent to be baked, the head is ﬁxed a spear , and b rne o n o w bef re the cross in the usual daily procession , which

o o . starts t wards the western do r This reached, the keeper makes the whole neighbourhoo d ring again with his lusty o h rn , and , before the sound has well died away , it is answered fro m different quarters of the City by Similar instrume n ts . All the parties are now dismissed with a small o present in m ney to their dinners, provided by the Dean o and Chapter, whilst the keeper will als have to receive his o ﬁv e n h is o cust mary shilli gs , and l af of bread stamped with

f . the image o St Paul . So ends this portion o fthe business o fthe day but the — most splendid is yet to co me the co mmemorati o n o f St . ’ E rk e nwal d s w o burial in the Cathedral , where , e are t ld , his ” o gl rious merits did shine forth miracul o usly . Again through the western do or co mes a processio n winding fro m ’ o a o the Bish p s pal ce , this time the Bish p himself at its head, n h is having the Dean o right hand, other distinguished f o f n o ﬁcers the church o n his left, and followed by early all o f o the clergy his di cese , with all the customary parapher nalia o f the church processi o ns during such high so l emni o f ties . The sumptu o usness their appearance beggars o w- o . o o o descripti n The Bish p wears a l ng , sn white r be o o o f b alm st concealing his feet , above which is an ther ru y o o o c l ured silk , reaching a little below the knee, pen at the o o sides , embroidered all ver in the m st exquisite manner 4 2 LUDGATE H I LL : PAST A ND PRES E NT .

with representations of animals , birds , and flowers, and o f o f having a deep border, which consists chiefly rows l o w interlaced pearls . From the , upright collar of this o f o o upper robe , down the centre the front to the b tt m , extends a band formed of o ne entire mass o f precious o f o stones , different c lours , and arranged in a variety of close patterns . The golden mitre on his head, the golden pastoral staff in his hand , are each similarly ornamented . E rk nwal v Towards the shrine o f St . e d Slowly mo es the procession amidst the fragrant perfumes Shed around by - no w incense bearers from their silver censers , up the nave , so thence through one of the aisles , and round to the shrine at the back o f the high altar . This is the most o f gorgeous piece combined architecture , sculpture , and decoration even in a Cathedral rich in such works . Rising fro m behind a kind of table covered with j ewels and preci o us o fal l stones kinds , including small Shrines , rings , and silver girdles , the gifts Of the pious , appears a lofty pyramidal Gothic structure in the purest and m o st exquisitely decorated style ; the outlines formed by pinnacles rising one ab o ve to another towards a Single pinnacle in the centre at the p , and the central portion consisting of three sle nder windows side by side, and an exceedingly elegant one filling the A o triangular space above . railing encloses the wh le for the preservation of the invaluable treasures lying o n the table within , or that have been used in the adornment of A the shrine . mong the former we may find the sapph ire o stone which Richard de Prest n , citizen and grocer of o fo r o fin firmitie s Lond n , gave to be placed here the curing o in the eyes , appointing at the same time that pr clamation f sh o uld be made of its Virtues . Solemn masses o r the repose o f the dead are now said ; the indulgences granted to o to all who visit the Shrine , and those who bring oblati ns , are explained . The words fall upon no dull or unheeding ears ; they come pressing around, rich and poor, lay and o r ecclesiastic, depositing their gifts of money or j ewels o f whatever else the tastes or means the owners instigate , the very poorest hav ing at least a taper for their favourite shrine .

is . All still at last Prelates , clergy , choristers have gone L OOKING ROUND . 43

i o the l ghts , save those which burn perpetually bef re the f n di ferent chantries , Shrines , and altars are exti guished ; su n the rich western window , lit up by a sudden burst of shine, seems to glow with preternatural radiance and its splendour, and throws warm light far along the pave o f ment, and , catching the edge the gilded cruciﬁx raised o f aloft in the centre the nave , makes it appear even more b rilliant than the taper by its Side . — There may be some other processions o utside o fFran c isc ans o , or th se Dominicans who are hereafter to give the name to the precinct o f Blackfriars but a go odly number o fvisitors stay in the Cathedral to loo k r o und at the superb ’ altar of Our Lady and Our Lady s chapel , the sculptured o f its o image Our Lady with lamp c nstantly burning, and an iron box at the fo ot o f the statue for the offerings of the pious . Behind this statue , on the right of the nave as we o f o approach the choir , is the low sculptured tomb Sir J hn f o n Beauchamp , with his e ﬁgy in complete armour lying o the top , and the l wer part decorated with painted and

. N o t to sculptured Shields much farther, and we look up the great height o f the four arches that supp o rt the high o o f so t wer the Cathedral , and yet spring lightly upward that they seem incapable o f bearing the square t o wer that rises 2 60 o f to feet , and in its turn supports the spire wood covered 2 with lead , which is 74 feet more .

— ’ T E . LUD GATE H ILL AND P RI SON . LOLLARD S OW R

R o w Av e — Paternoster , Maria Lane , Creed Lane yes , — the stationers have settled here the statio ners and text ’ o f o o writers , sellers prayers , r saries , hornb oks , A B C s , and o such v lumes as those which Edward IV . had bound , “ ” ’ o no t o to led, and gilded . Stationers Hall is yet f unded , but here is the building which is to bec o me the centre o f that craft and mystery o n which the progress o fthe world is so o greatly to depend . Between Amen Corner and B wyer

Row (hereafter to be named Ludgate Street) , stands a great o f o o o o f o o f house stone and w d , the h use J hn , Duke

o f . o o to Bretagne , in the time Edward I I , and g ing d wn o f o the Earls Pembroke , after wh m it is named Pembroke

Inn . . It is worthy of note that these great mansions o fthe 44 LU D GATE H ILL : PAST A ND PRESENT .

o nobility in Lond n are called inns , and that in the City and its Liberties— within the encircling wall— are a number of o such goodly piles , with their c urtyards and surrounding -at— lodgings , where retainers and men arms dwell and have

o . their rati ns served to them Close by , near Newgate El denesse Market and Prison , is Warwick Inn , in Lane to a a (but soon be called Warwick L ne) , the gre t mansion of “ - the Nevills, wherein the King maker takes up his abode V f when Henry I . has summoned the estates o th e realm to

L o ndo n . Great doings are there then , for along Ludgate ’ Hill march the Earl s men , Six hundred of them , clad in red jackets , embroidered before and behind with the cognisance o f the Nevills , that ragged staff which has rallied its bearers

- in many a hard fo ught ﬁeld . Away to Warwick H o use tramp o f o f they , amidst sharp ring arms and the shouts the people, and great state will be kept, for there will be often as many six as oxen eaten at a breakfast, and every tavern will be full ’ o f the Earl s meat , for he that has any acquaintance in that h o use may go there and take SO much of sodden and roast n meat as he can prick and carry away o a long dagger . o Yes , there are brave doings in these days ab ut that quarter , ’ and in the large o pen space fr o nting St . Paul s and behind ’ do Ludgate . Once more will the people in Bowyer s Row a brisk trade , and the clink of anvils and the sound of car n r m h e t . S o o t ﬁel p y be heard Still later, and in the great d, o o f by the Pri ry and Hospital Saint Bartholomew , there will o again be jousts and t urnaments , and from the Tower, by o l d o o f so o the R man road Watling Street, and al ng Knight ’

o f . o rider Street to the front St Paul s, will c me the champions , -at- to o the squires , the men arms , attend the Weapon Sh w, r Wa in - o w. , as the Scotch call it, the p seha There is a blare o f o f a o f o trumpets , a crash and clatter iron, a ﬂ sh g ld and o f o steel , quaint devices and gay colours banner and penn n and painted shield, as the cavalcade rides by, with heralds o o in tabards ablaze with g ld and crims n , pursuivants with o n o o f f jewelled h usi gs and trunche ns O ﬁce , ladies on ambling o r palfreys , borne in litters, gently heaving forward, as they - o are carried by low , easy paced h rses , and surrounded with a o f glittering retinue pages .

The prisons are full enough . Here at Ludgate itself the ’ TH E LOLLARD S TOWER . 4 5

cry of the po o r debtors who are conﬁned in the ga o l where

the gate j o ins the City wall is heard daily . It is a wretched and wh o place, the abode of the wretched are kept there by wh o remorseless creditors . Merchants and tradesmen have been ruined by losses at sea are among them ; and it has f o o . had an evil reputati n ever Since the days Richard I I , was n o t when it ﬁrst used as a place of conﬁnement , for evil

o . o o doers , but for the unf rtunate But it has its r mantic st ry fo r o l d o o ne here , according to the chr niclers , was a prisoner, o - Robert F rster, who, begging at the grate with the alms box into which benevolent donors cast their money for the relief o f o sum o f the inmates , was asked by a wealthy wid w what m o ney would pay his debts and set him free . He replied that t wenty pounds would sufﬁce (a good round su m in those o f sh e days , for he had been a merchant London) and at o b e once paid it , and to k him into her service , where he haved with such discretion that she afterwards married him , o a o and he built up a still larger fortune, and became L rd M y r n of London . This worthy pair , remembering the sufferi gs o f o o to the poor debt rs , enlarged the pris n , added it a chapel fo r o the inmates , and provided that in future there sh uld be o f o free l dging and water, to which ef ect an inscripti n was placed outside the gate . That this was a real relief may be understood when we learn that at o ther priso ns fo r debt o rs lo dgings and even water had to be paid fo r ; and but for ’ -b o x o the alms , the broken victuals from the Lord May r s o f o f table, and other contributions the charitable, many those who were kept in hopeless durance would have perished of want . f o . Even over the tiny church St Gregory , snuggling there ’ ’ o in the very elbow of St . Paul s , is the L llards Tower , where heretics are tormented and martyrs have lived and died o f o f within the sound the great Cathedral , and the campanile — that stands just beyond apart fro m the church the bell t o wer whence in older times came the peal that summo ned o o f citizens to the f lkmote, and rang out the chime rejoicing, o r o f to the alarum that gave warning strife , and called men

. So o arms , amidst the splendid sh ws , the gorgeous pageants ,

- the solemn celebrations , the ever changing and abundant Vitality o fthis great thoroughfare from the hill foot to East 6 D H A 4 LU GATE ILL : PAST N D PRES E NT .

o f Chepe , are heard the undertones misery and persecution , the wail against cruelty and oppression . Amidst the vigo rous life o ne might almost turn to ﬁnd s o me meaning o f that “ ” symb o lic dance o fdeath which is painted o n the walls o f C o o the l ister surr unding the Pardon Church Haugh , in the ’ churchyard just beyond the bishop s house , to the east by o o Patern ster Row . The father of Th mas Becket built that chapel , and the strange , weird dance was added but lately (fo r we are now in the reign of Henry at the special request of Jenkin Carpenter , citizen and mercer . This dance o fdeath is already a favourite delineation for Cloister o o f walls , and is an illustrati n a poem written by one Mac h ab re is , a German , after whom it sometimes called “ “ ” o fMac h r ab e . the dance It is a moral performance , and consists o f a long train of ﬁgures representing persons o f o o to all degrees and stati ns , from the P pe the lowest o r o o r beggar utcast, who perform a procession dance each o n with a skelet n partner , and headi g the train the bony

- spectre wh o ﬂourish es his emptying hour glass . The gro te s u e o its o fo r q mement may have m ral uses , but better o f o o o the true instruction the pe ple, if the pe ple could nly “ d o rea , would be the faire library with faire written b oks in v ellum just placed in th e ro o m over the east side o f C Sh rin to n o f the loister by Walter y g , Canon Residentiary ’ ” . o o f u o f St Paul s and Chancell r the D chy Lancaster .

“ — IT E BE S . TH LL AVAGE S ORIGI N .

But we must return to o ur standpoint beside the o l d

Bell Savage Inn, for the history of that ancient building

f . o n emerges in the reign o Henry VI , when one J hn Fre ch legally conveys to his mo ther for her life all that tenement ’ o r inn o , with its appurtenances , called Savage s Inn , therwise ” called the Bell o n the Hoop . This is the ﬁrst regular mention of the inn ; it was evidently in possessio n o f the

Savage family , and as there are indications that it became o fo ne o the property Isabella Savage , St w thinks that it was r l o f o m her that the o d inn g t its name . The title which it — — b o re in more m o dern times La B elle Sauvage has pro o ne f two t o m o f th e b ably o derivations . I was the cust

4 8 LUDGATE H ILL : PAST AND PR E SENT .

o f o f a tenants the owners the mansion , and its gre t gate shut

it fro m the ro ar and turm o il of Ludgate Hill .

D TH E HILL I N O L TI M E S . We can scarcely picture to o urselves what the streets o f — o o f London were like in those days the houses , m stly o r timber and wood , cement plaster , built in overhanging o storeys , evidently the best way of making each st rey preserve from the effects of rains and storms that which was

o t . beneath it . N till the time of Edward IV do we hear of

brick houses , and glass windows were by no means common

till long afterwards . The middle of the streets began to be ’

V III . s was paved in Henry reign , an d though there then o much magnificence and display , the customs were not ver o f cleanly . The floors were commonly clay , strewed with r rushes , beneath which often lay unmolested , as E asmus tells “ o o f o f us , an ancient collecti n beer , grease , fragments fish , ” etc . , etc . , and everything that is nasty . Even the City was no t lighted at night till the reign o f

V . Henry , and then the illumination was with lanterns slung — up o n ro bes or haybands which crossed th e streets an o ur arrangement which might be applied to electric lighting . in f The City Watch the time o Henry VI II . had grown to o u t for be a stately body of men , and when they went their

muster o n the Eve of St . John the sight was o ne that the

‘ King himself liked to loo k upon ; but robbery had been o - rife, and in the dark and devi us bye ways and alleys thieves a and footpads had e sily escaped . The cry , Hang out yo ur lights and the o rdinance o f the City that every househ o lder should hang outside his dwelling a h o rn lantern and a wh o le candle somewhat mitigated the evil ; but it was as difﬁcult to enforce the law as it was to compel the extincti o n o f ﬁres when the bells rang the curfe w (o r co uvre ’ feu) to warn housekeepers and servants that at eight o clo ck at night they must place upon the embers the metal lid or o n o o r o c ver that should extinguish the burni g w od c al , and so prevent the danger o f houses being sudde nly fo und ablaze in a neighbourhood where there was wo o d and thatch — o to spread it, and but a poor supply of water even th ugh o r there were twelve great conduits , leaden cisterns , in ’ QU E E N E LI % A B ETH . 49

fo r co u re eu various parts o fthe City . The need the v f may ve ry well be imagined if we remember that there were no o f o chimneys ; the hearth was in the middle the ro m , the smoke escaping by l o u v res o r ﬂu es either in walls o r ro o f ; “ ” whence , as John Aubrey , the antiquarian , who lived in ’

1 6 8 o o ur . 7 , says , comes the saying r und about coal ﬁre “ ” ” to Public Inns, he goes on tell us , were rare (in the “ co untry he means) . Travellers were entertained at re l i i us o fo r o o o . g o h uses three days t gether, if ccasi n served

The meetings Of the gentry were not at taverns , but in the o r o b u l eh o rns ﬁelds f rests , with hawks and hounds and their g , in silken baldricks .

E E E H QU E N LI % A B T O N LUDGATE HILL . But a great change has taken place in the manners as well as the customs of the people of London, although there o o f w may be only a small impr vement in some their d ellings , and in the multitude of c o nveniences which we are ac

. customed to regard as the signs o f increased civilisation . o o f The Pri ry Bartholomew has been suppressed , the Black Fo r Friars unhoused and disestablished . a time only Mary o r o h er succeeded in undoing what her father did, d ing what no w brother, the young Edward , undid ; and , with the o Spaniard at bay and the P pe in check , the ﬁgure Of Elizabeth c o mes to ﬁll the great place that could have been

o . o ﬁlled by n ne else A y uthful , slight , but determined w o o f ﬁgure , with clear, intrepid eyes , hich the grim shad w the ’ o h as n o t T wer dimmed with her father s imperial temper, and the Boleyn art of winning the loyalty o f brave and gifted men with grand , noble impulses , and second thoughts o f o dissimulati n with c o urage unshrinking, and insight that seldom fails ; with learning enough to talk with the wise , and accomplishments to please the gay , and compel n — a o a true admiration in the midst o f sycopha ts Tud r ,

o n . perhaps m re like her grandfather , He ry VII , than her o f father , except in the early days when he was Henry u Greenwich . The bells are ringing o t till every steeple r o cks ; ﬂags are ﬂying ; balconies are hung with tapestry and velvet pile ; at every conduit in the City some alle 50 LUDGATE H ILL : PAST AN D PRESENT .

o ric al o is se t g sh w ; the streets are decked with ﬂowers ,

and gay c o l o urs ﬂaunt from every window . All Ludgate o f is astir ; th e Shops and stalls are full wares, and the ’ a o City prentices , in their cloaks and c ps , Sh ut till they “ ’ are W ? too hoarse to cry, hat d ye lack The taverns are o f ﬂa o ns full , and great piles of brawn and stacks bread , g of o f o f o ale and bottles sack and canary, salads colew rt and o f mighty rounds beef, capons , and a dozen kinds of meat o f w o and drink , hich the names are now almost forg tten , ' th e msel v es surv iv e fo r though the things , are ready the f o o easters , who will soon c me in , hungry fr m much loyalty for the Sh o uting of a great crowd is heard coming fro m its o o f Chepe, and in midst, seated in an pen litter, seen all o o the people , is the Princess Elizabeth , so n to be kn wn as o is as o G od Queen Bess . I t th ugh a great pall had been ’ is lifted from the land , and there a new light in men s faces , o o fe w a new h pe in their hearts ; and nly a , dark and as n o n moody, slip aside the trampling thro g comes , and get n o f them away , wonderi g whether the times Mary have really passed away , and her heretic sister will uphold the o f Reformation and defy the auth rity o Rome . B - - a ythe bye , it should be mentioned that mong the draperies that hang from the beetling windows o f the ’ C Tu rk e c ar ets fo r itizens houses are rich y p , even in the days o f the Eighth Harry ships trading to the East to Tripoli and Baruth bro ught these costly fabrics fo r the wh o no w wealthy merchants and substantial citizens , dress as richly and furnish their r o oms as sumptu o usly as the w o f nobles themselves , ith cloth arras and silk adorning o the walls , and silver plate up n their Sideboards , where pike o n o o f and sturgeon , peac ck , ve is n pasty, chine beef, ruffs o and reeves , swan , heron , and cap ns , puddings , pies , and — cream are piled fo r the feast except between Michaelmas o r and Whitsuntide, when the meat, the beef, at all is events , salted , and no cattle are slaughtered , even for

- - a . b the Royal t ble The Turkey carpets , ythe bye are not o o r placed upon the ﬂo rs , where rushes matting still do o r a duty , but are used to cover chairs and tables , as dr pery fo r o f o f wall and door . The outer appearance many the is houses , even about Ludgate Hill , poor and mean , but QUEEN ELI % A B ETH . 51

to o % quaint and picturesque , and they are divided by larger

n n . mansions and imposi g buildi gs The streets are irregular , n n no o o r wi di g, and dirty ; there are c aches carriages ; but o o f Strandwards all al ng the banks the Thames , and at to o Of intervals from the Temple the T wer , the palaces the _ o r o w n bles have their ga dens running d wn to the river , here , o r - at at wharves landing stages , the family barge and its o o d fo r o wh o do no t tendant wherries are m re , pe ple care to ’ o o n a and walk travel m stly the silent highw y , the waterman s

a . business ﬂ o urishes . There are laws (m de by Henry VII I ) stringently imp o sing heavy ﬁnes o n th o se wh o p o llute the f a w an o o . o o Thames ith y s rt refuse Robert Br ke , Chapl in

to . o fo r Henry VI II , has long ago d ne much supplying water to the City by the inven ti o n o f m aking leaden pipes fo r co nveying the water undergro und from Hampstead M l . o uswe l Heath , S t Maryleb ne , Hackney, Hill , and the

l . o f . e o o springs St Agnes Clair, H xt n as a Surely , Elizabeth passed here by the Bell Sav ge, and o w we n cast a glance at the sp t here are standi g, She must have h ad a sudden sad memory (sh e is o ne who knows little o f o o f fear) Of the mad expediti n Wyatt , which ended here fo r w o f sh so tragically, and hich , th ugh She has a firmed e sh e n neither knew nor approved it , was near findi g a grave o f sh e within the walls the Tower , whence has j ust come to be made Queen . Sir Thomas Wyatt was the so n o f the o wh o so o o f o f p et had been cl se a friend the Earl Surrey , and so faithful a partisan o fAnne Boleyn . He was opposed o f o f to the marriage Mary to the King Spain , and raised o an insurrecti n which , if it had been successful , would — probably have brought Elizabeth earlier to the throne at a ’ So n cost o f civil war . formidable was Wyatt s followi g that o to Mary had to g the City , and there , at the Guildhall, disown any fixed intention to marry against the o bj ectio ns sh e o f C o f the people . By this gained the help the itizens to put do wn the rebellio n ; b u t Wyatt had raised an army o o in Kent, and held R chester , where he was j ined by a o o wh o n number of L nd ners , had been sent agai st him as a ’ o f f o rfo l k s part the army o f the Duke o Norfolk . N army

One o r two ho uses o fa rather l ater date are still standing in Fl e e t

S ree and o er in H o o rn . t t, th s lb A E 52 LU D GATE H ILL : PAST N D PR S E NT .

o n to o ﬂed, and the rebels came Deptf rd , and thence to o o S uthwark, but , being denied admissi n that way , went to

Kingst o n rather than attack the City . The Queen was then n o at the Guildhall prevaricating , and had Wyatt t delayed o f b ro k e ndo wn ﬁe l d- because a gun at Turnham Green , he o fo r o o o might have gained L ndon , he f rced back his pp nents , o o f rest red the broken bridge at Kingston by a bridge barges , o f o o n o and while some his ofﬁcers deserted him , and r de t n o to the City to e trap him , had c me Charing Cross , and o o wh o repulsed a th usand men under Sir J hn Gage , was o to a bliged retreat within Whitehall P lace , amidst the o f o o shrieks and cries treas n and general uproar of the C urt , n to who expected nothi g less than be slaughtered outright . ’ o But Wyatt was away towards Ludgate , the Queen s tro ps ’ and Pembro ke s h o rse cl o sing o n his rear . He was to o l ate . Lord William H o ward was already there with the

o o o f . citizens , and the gate had bec me a f rtress armed men o u to a He had th ght he needed only show himself, and th t the citizens wo uld welcome the enemy of that Spaniard wh o was o to b e c ming England to _ their master ; but he was “ n o o A % o undeceived whe H ward sh uted , vaunt , traitor th u ”

. o o shalt not come in here The tr ps ﬁlled the Strand , and cut off his retreat at Temple Bar . A ﬁerce and deadly

ﬁght must soon make the Fleet run blood . Here , by the o n Old Bell Savage , is the bench which he ﬂung himself in

o f o . despair a cause already l st He would strive to return , but it could only be by ﬁghting, and the ﬁghting, already

‘ begun , would be hopeless . Clarencieux , King at Arms , o n c mes ridi g through the press, and begs that he will save o o the great bl dshed that must ensue , when , perchance, he himself may ﬁnd the Queen merciful . It was the o nly o o f h is c urse left, except to sacriﬁce a number brave men to o wn pride and , surrendering to Sir Maurice Berkely , who to o n s called to him leap up behind him his horse , and o o carried him through the ranks of the s ldiers to Whitehall , o u t o f to o Wyatt passed the streets , and the T wer, whence he came not o ut again till he came to be beheaded . The o rebels were put d wn ; and then Mary , caring very little fo r o r the citizens the people , made haste to marry the

Spaniard . ’

% . QUEEN ELI A B ETH AT ST. PAUL S 53

’ But the Spaniard has gone his way ; and Elizabeth s

” o f — o f r name and the name her gallant defenders G enville , o — H ward , Hawkins , Raleigh , Essex and of the generals , admirals , soldiers , seamen , and navigators , have become

. o famous , and are already denounced and hated by th se who pro udly pretend that to them belongs the dominion o f o o o the hithert unkn wn seas , and the great g lden lands o o f o fo ne r beyo nd . M st all is the name Francis D ake held in fear, for he has sailed round the world, and has struck hard at Spanish pride and cruelty in their o wn stro ngholds — n o performing deeds that hav e parallel in history , and making the name o f English adven turers words o f terro r i n “ ” the remote garrisons o f the Indies and the vast plain s and m o untain fortresses of the South . ’ Drake s ship , in which he circumnavigated the world , P el ican o the famous , lies at Deptf rd now ; and there the

Queen , making a fair procession by water, and amidst the o f o o f o r o u crowd pe ple who line the banks the river , lie t a in i in barges and wherries in the stre m , has accepted the v tatio n to a stately banquet , and Drake has been made Sir

. P el ican e Francis Still more years , and the , r named the Go l den H ind o f , has swept the coast the Spanish main , and “ ’ ” n Drake has singed the Ki g of Spain s beard , and the Great o Armada has b rne down on England, and Elizabeth has o o n fo r fo e been with the English tr ps at Tilbury, waiti g the b u t o that never came , was swept fr m the sea ; and so agai n a to Fo r a gr nd and brilliant processio n c o mes Ludgate . ’ f r Elizabeth comes to give thanks at St . Paul s o the great n Victo ry vouchsafed to us against o ur enemies . It is i deed a o f o n ro o o day s lemn thanksgivi g th ugh ut the kingd m , and o f to o a one Show and state , , and especi lly here on Ludgate Hill ; for the Queen rides from S o merset House o n a tri u m h al o r c r r p chariot a , decked with the st eamers taken o f o f fr m the Spaniards , and with all the great o ﬁcers her o o f o Court , l rds Spiritual and temporal , ladies her h usehold ,

o f o . Members Parliament , and all the n bility and gentry One — , alas l the great and accomplished Sir Philip Sidney — no t o n a o o b ro o is here , for not l g g his b dy was ught fr m ’ % utphen in a sad cortege to be buried in the church where his m o nument no w 1° 54 LUDGAT E H ILL : PAST AN D PRESE NT .

at th e See , the Queen descends , and kneels great western o f th e al o d o o r Cathedr , amidst the bish p and clergy in rich — c o pes and vestments while stretchi ng away on either side to o f o e Te mple Bar and the Bridge Fleet , the City C mpani s , in , o their liveries , lin e the way, standing within a d uble railing o f covered with blue cl th the Lord Mayor and sherif s , M o n clothed in scarlet , having received her ajesty her enter f r ing the City . It is a splendid sight ; o th o ugh the great nobility and wealthy knights have subscribed liberally to the o f so charges the ﬂeet , that the vessels that beat the Spaniards were many o f them found by these private ad n o fo r ve turers , there is great Show and sumptu us apparel o the wo rk of rej o icing . Velvet coats and d ublets slashed o with satin and broidered with pearls and other gems , sh es o an d that glisten with preci us stones , hats turned up with — costly j ewels and rare o rnaments while the ladies in yell o w f f ruf s and farthingales , and bodices stif with gold and gems , o r o n attend the Queen in litters palfreys . All the great men here to - day have names that will be writ in the history o o f —in of this land, and will live in the mem ries men public o o f benefacti ns , in the record heroic deeds , in noble works , and in poetry , philosophy , science , and song , long after this to e o crowd has turned dust, and in the meaner and less h r ic ’ time to come after Elizabeth s gre at heart has been gnawed a o o f o fo r by the f lseho d Essex, and she has c me the last ’ to to o to see time Blackfriars L rd Herbert s house a masque , in sh e to r which has ceased take pleasure , but whe e she “ d n o bears up bravely , and still a ces high and grand , th ugh sh e is now old and failing . Men will speak o fSpenser and o Sidney , Raleigh and Cecil , Fr bisher and Winter , Hawkins , r o fal l o f D ake , Seymour , and , most , perhaps , Francis Bacon , o fo ne to o o f and other who is stand in the f refr nt o the world , o f o and yet whom little is known at present , th ugh we Shall and wh o an d ﬁnd him presently with Raleigh , the wits meet “ ‘ ’ se e o r t hear great things done at the Mermaid , hat o f r b famous tavern Bread Street in Chepe , whe e the clu meets fo r those to u rnaments o f fancy and o frepartee which are thereafter to be associated with the name o fWilliam a Shakespe re .

6 L H : AN D 5 UDGATE ILL PAST PRESENT .

TH E LD O F D O INNS LON ON .

The transition of many old mansions into inns fo r public entertainment was in accordance with the changes that had

taken place in other respects . The laws against vagrancy

and masterless men were revived and revised , and a syste “ ” matic poor law had been organised . Bridewell was in ’ so . full swing ; but also was St Bartholomew s , where the fo r Sick or maimed were sent cure, and, when they had been A was o . S o healed , work f und for them to the Fleet Pris n ,

that was full enough , and Newgate also but , on the whole, England became under Elizab eth “ a land of great and ” wide renown ; and there was so much show and action , so earnest work and hearty play , much intense nationality , o s and such a revival of letters , and als o much mirth and o f jollity, that it was natural even for people consideration

to meet at inns which already had a history , and there to

take their ease and pleasure . o o Nor was it unseemly , theref re , that th se entertainments o f - o o -o f- players , morris dancers , c nj ur rs, and masters arms , which had been held in the courtyards o f private mansi o ns o sh uld be continued in the inn yards , where the players , o n who had now a regular drama, could perform a movable ’

. o f stage The boys of Paul s School , too , in the age a o o f Elizabeth act Terence and Senec , and the ch risters ’ Westminster and o f the Queen s Chapel are called Child ” o f o ren the Revels , and am ng them were some who had o o come to be fell w act rs with Shakespeare , and perhaps o f o have graced the stage the Bell Savage . Mal ne, in his “ o f o u r account of the English stage , says, Many ancient ’ dramatic pieces were perfo rmed in the yards o f carriers ’ o f inns , in which , in the beginning Queen Elizabeth s reign , the comedians who ﬁrst united themselves in companies o o f erected an o ccasional stage . The f rm these temporary r mo playhouses seems to be preserved in o u dern theatre . The galleries in bo th are ranged over each o ther o n three

Sides o f the building . The small rooms under the lowest of these galleries answer to o u r present bo xes ; and it is v observable that these, e en in theatres that were built in a x x subsequent period e presslyfor dramatic e hibitions , still E S H AKESP AR E . 57

roo m etained their old name , and were frequently called s f by o ur ancient writers . The yard bears a su ﬁcient resem blance to the pit as at present in use . We may supp o se the stage to have been raised o n this arena on the fourth o f Side, with its back to the gateway the inn , at which the money fo r admission was taken . Thus in ﬁne weather a ” no o playhouse t inc mmodious might have been formed . b So here we have Shakespeare , Bur age , Alleyn ( the founder of Dulwich Co llege) and other men famed as the represem a i f o o o t t ve s o English drama and p etry, c me acr ss from Southwark and the Globe and Paris Garden o n Bankside to Ludgate Hill .

’ S E H AT B H AKESPEAR S T EATRE LACKFRIAR S . “ But they were not there only for splitting the ears o f ” the gr o undlings at the o l d inn . They had purposed to o wn o have a theatre of their cl se to Ludgate Hill , and there seems to have been an endeavour to avo id the persecuti o ns which harassed the actors o fthat time by making it a p rivate theatre, where , perhaps, the many friends and inﬂuential “ supp o rters o fthe bard o fAvon maintained the drama by

b o . su scripti n At all events , we find that James Burbage r th 1 6 pu chased , by deed dated February 4 , 59 , from Sir o f Lo sel e o William More , y, Surrey , a large h use in the o Blackfriars , which he soon after converted int a theatre . 1 60 8 In William Shakespeare had a share in the speculation , o f o o and was the proprietor the wardr be and pr perties , 0 0 o valued at 5 . Serious c mplaints were made at a later date (in 1 6 1 8) of the disturbance o f public o rder and the inco nvenience to the neighb o urhood caused alm o st daily ’ in winter time (no t excepti ng Lent) from one o r two o clock fo r till five at night (the usual time christenings , burials , o and afternoon service) by the playhouse being pen , so that the inhabitants o f Blackfriars were unable to get to th e o f o f church , the ordinary passage a great part the precinct being close by the playhouse door . It was also represented o o f that there was such a res rt people , and such a multitude o f o n o n c aches (many of them hack ey c aches , bri ging people o f o all sorts) that they cl gged up Ludgate Hill , endangered e o o th o n another, broke d wn stalls , threw down g ods , and e E 58 LUDGATE H I LL : PAST A ND PR S E NT . inhabitants were unable to get to their houses o r bring in o to o r their pr visions , the tradesmen utter their wares , — passengers to get to the c o mmon water stairs witho ut danger o f o o life and limb quarrels and effusion of blood had f ll wed , o and ther dangers might be occasioned by the broils , plots , and practices o f such an unruly multitude . It seems to have taken about fo urteen years to have vindicated the fo r o n o 2 2 nd 1 6 necessity for this petition , only N vember , 33, do we find an order of the Star Chamber upon complaint o f the inco nv enience occasioned by the sto ppage o f the streets by the carriages o fpersons frequenting the playhouse “ o f o the Blackfriars Their l rdships, remembering that o there is an easy passage by water int that playhouse , with o ut n o troubli g the streets , and that it is m re fit and reason able that th o se which go thither sh ould go by water or else o n o o o al l o o f t , rder that coaches Shall leave as s n as they o and n o t rn n o r n have set d wn , retu till the play is over, retur ’ f o r Fl ee t further than the west end o St . Paul s Churchyard l

Conduit . C o achmen disob eying this o rder were to be co mmitted to Newgate o r Ludgate . Some p o or pedestrians wh o n o w dread the dangers o fthe streets might well be ex c use d fo r thinki ng that a week o r two o f the Star Ch amber would do th e drivers of public and even s o me private vehicles much good .

LAN D AND WAT E R .

o n o f The times were moving faster , and the c veniences o f life were multiplying . One Sign change had been the o o f o Bo o nen intr duction c aches into England by Guilliam , ’ h n w o o . a Dutchman , became the Queen s c achma “ n o t o n ﬁnd o It is Very w derful to Tayl r , the water o n o o f o f r poet, den unci g this new m de c nveyance ; o the Thames had been the great high way fr o m Whitehall to the o an d r Tower , and all intermediate stati ns it was in a wher y that ladies livi ng near the Thames went to take their ai ring

o th e . o o up n water J hn Tayl r, beside being a vigo ro us o o o f - p et , auth r Sixty three pieces , was a veritable water

. o man He was never ashamed of his trade , th ugh he was n o o acq uai ted with Ben J ns n , and , having his boat at the STAGE COAC H E S . 59

o o n o r Hope Theatre , Bankside , probably did a g d busi ess, f he says

no l e T a e il e I c an o l a en But b h m s , wh h d p , I wil l divul ge thy gl o ry u n t o men T o in th e o rn n e n m o n an h u , m i g wh y c i is sc t , l ” B e fo re th e e ven i ng d o th sup p y my w ant .

But times had changed from the day when even the Lo rd ’ o n o Mayor s procession was by state barges the n ble river , where a fleet o f swans sailed up and d o wn amidst gaily o o decked wherries and br ad galleys , and we find Tayl r ’ ” n o t saying , not without bitterness , Tis fit that

Fulso m e mad ams and ne w scurvy squi re s S o o th e re e at o at e ir e ire h uld j lt st t p mp, th d s s L e rea r h an Ta r a n e e a da ik g t t iump t mbu l i s ch y, ’ D rawn with th e pampe r d jade s o fBel gia T a a o al l th e ree are o e o r h t lm st st ts ch k d ut ight , W e re men c an ar a ro o rn n h h dly p ss f m m till ight , ” l a Whi st w termen wan t w o rk .

He no t unreaso nably satirises the pride that led a gentle w o man to send her man to hire a c o ach fro m Ludgate Hill r to carry her to see a play at the Blackf iars . But o r coaches multiplied , and th ugh the sedan chai , which was b ro ught here b y Pri nce Charles (afterwards n in Charles I . ) o n his return fro m his pretended wo o i g r l itter a o F ance , superseded the , and remained a f shi nable conveyance for short distances almost to within living — memo ry the number of public vehicles so increased that when they were limited by proclamati o n in 1 635 there were o in n o o — o m a o f ab ut Lo d n , and in a f ur miles c p ss L o nd o n and suburb s there were said to be the ﬁrst hackney c o ach stand having b een established in 1 634 by a

sea wh o - o in captain named Baily , set up f ur , with drivers

to o in r . livery , wait at the Mayp le, the St and The c o aches were so distasteful to the common pe o ple b m n o s partly ecause they ade the streets da ger u , and pushed to o r o n t pedestrians the wall , c nsta ly bespattered them with “ — a b a o - a mire th t the name given them y T yl r, hell c rts , o o an d r o so was ad pted by the p pulace , they we e c nstantly

called . The passage o f Ludgate Street between the Gate ’ f f r r and St . Paul s must have b een di ﬁcult o these lumbe ing 60 LUDGATE H ILL : PAST AN D PRESENT .

vehicles , except on state occasions , for there is little doubt

o is - that at one peri d it had what called a middle row, or passage formed of stalls or booths erected on one side the

street , with a narrow passage between them and the regular

shops . But in all probability these structures were movable , and perhaps were cleared away on the occasions o f pro

cessions of state or other important occasions .

’ ’ P L E — D AUL S WA K Rs OCTORS C OMMONS .

- u The narrow streets , the ill drained ho ses , the want Of f paving, and the insu ﬁciency of water for cleansing the city ,

which had expanded beyond the ancient walls , in spite of Ro yal proclamations against the increase of houses and the th e extension of former boundaries , exposed the inhabitants — to two deadly foes ﬁre and plague . The large quantity o f o n of timber used in building, the crowding verha ging

storeys in close thoroughfares , the inflammable materials o use c llected in shops and warehouses , and the constant of flamb eaux m candles , torches , and , ade the first peril common f o . enough , and the lack water increased its terror Plague was fr recurrent, and to this may be partly attributed the e o fo r quent acts of the City Corp ration restraining stage plays , and prev enting pe o ple from assembling in large numbers for purposes o f amusement within a building . The truth is that there was a great deal of legislation and much com manding and pro claiming ; but that did not prevent a vast ’ amount of disorder . St . Paul s Cathedral was in a dis fo r graceful condition , it had become a promenade and fo r o general resort loungers , idlers , and persons wh se characters were by n o means unquestionable . It had w o al ays had this disgraceful reputati n in former times , and even as early as the reign of Edward I I I . there were com

o f . plaints of the kind , while in the reign Richard I I I the scandal continued , even though excommunication had been n pronounced against the offenders . Indeed, the marketi g , ’

o Of . g ssiping , lounging and making assignations in St Paul s f came to be de ended as ancient usages , and in the reign of Philip and Mary th e church was a common passage - way o f for conveying all kinds merchandise , including beer, d an an brea , ﬁsh , and meat , d mules , horses, d cattl e w ere ’ E 6 I PAUL S WALK RS .

actually led through the building . After the Reformation o f o f many these indecencies continued, and the condition the grand o l d Cathedral is frequently suggested by the

o f . dramatists and poets that age Before, and even after , o f o the building the Royal Exchange by Sir Th mas Gresham , o and its inaugurati n by the Queen herself, who dined with the eminent merchant on the occasi o n at his h o use in o Bishopsgate , the church was used as a c mmercial mart , and bills o r advertisements were fastened to the columns in the aisles . Among the curious notices relating to the irreverent o f practices pursued in this church in the time Elizabeth , c o llected by Mr . Malcolm from the manuscript presentments ’ “ o r at . Visitations preserved St Paul s , are found that, in u ier wh er o the upper q , the comm n [communion] table o u nrev erente o wal k in d the stande , there is much pe ple g with their h atts o n their h eddes commonly all the service ” “ Y o t . t time , no man repr ving them for y And also, is greate disorder in th e church , that porters , butchers , and - wh o no t h e o f water bearers , and , suffered (in special time c arr e re c arr e service) to y and y whatsoever , no man with ” st n in a d ge them o r gainsaying them . ’ f o f . o o The middle St Paul s was , in fact , the B nd Street — if o the period , indeed, we can now realise what B nd Street was when it was regarded as a daily resort in the time o f o George IV . U p to the time o f the C mm o nwealth the o o f wh o y ung gallants fr m the Inns o Court , and others o o f to desired to make a Sh w spirit and fashion , used meet ’ ’

o o f . o at the central p int St Paul s , and were kn wn as Paul s ” Walkers ; j ust as in the last generatio n s o me men were “ ” o kn wn as Bond Street L o ungers . However strange it o may seem , tradition says that the great L rd Bacon in his f o ne o . f youth was them Many o them were poor enough , Of and they , along with o ther impecunious frequenters the “ ne w place, were said to go there at mid day to di ith Duke ’ Humphrey - a proverb which o riginated in the fact that one o fthe chief meeting- places was at the only c o nspicuous o monument near the screen of the altar, really the m nument o f o o ne o f o o f Sir J hn Beauchamp , the H use Warwick o f already mentioned , but erroneously supposed to be that 2 H A E 6 LUD GATE ILL : PAST ND PR SENT .

o o f — Humphrey , the go d Duke Gloucester before which

the p o o r vis it o rs used to strew herbs and sprinkle water . The high altar n o l o nger shone resplenden t as in the days o o o f bef re the Reformation , nor were there thr ngs priests o o o r and ch risters mingling with the visit rs , making pro

. o o cessions in the aisles Several ther t mbs were added, o o f o however, the m st prominent being that Sir Christ pher o o was Hatt n , wh se high and stately dancing said to have wo n o f wh o u the admiration Elizabeth , s bsequently made o o r o f him her Chancell r , as Gray says him ,

H is ear and S o e - rin re en bushy b d , h st gs g , ’ H is h c ro w n d h at and a n o e igh s ti d ubl t , ’ ’ o th e o ear o fE n an e en M v d st ut h t gl d s Qu , i Th o ugh Po p e and Spaniard co uld no t t ro ubl e t .

’ An o ther o f Elizabeth s great statesmen lay there also wh o so Walsingham , died deeply in debt that his body was b e . secretly buried , lest it should seized by his creditors Sir o o - t Christ pher Hatton , too , is said to have died br ken hear ed because h is r o yal mistress exacted from him a debt which f to he found it di ﬁcult pay and we may, therefore , under stand that all the great show and state was not maintained o o with ut c st, and that the extravagant dress , and j ewelled o fo r— if Sh es and hats , were , after all , paid not in coin , in f o so anxiety and care . The t o mb o Chancell r Hatton eclipsed th o se o f Sir Philip Sidney and Walsingham by its r o o o size and p etenti usness , and its l ng , pomp us , and rather o l d o o n absurd epitaph , tha t St w made an epigram it, which h ’ as o as . been Often qu ted a legend of St Paul s ,

P i and Fran i a e no o h lip c s h v t mb, Fo r re a r o r a e al l th ro o g t Ch ist phe t k s e m .

Many changes were m ade in Ludgate Hill and its l n o o . o d o t neighbourh d The gate was only repaired , but rebuilt the statues o f King Lud and his s o ns placed in a niche o n the east Side ; and o n the west fr o nt the statue o f n 1 the Quee herself was placed in 586 . ’ o o o o n o f . D ctors C mm ns , the Hill St Bennet , j ust behind Kn i h trider Great g Street, may be said to have been begun

Th e an n o f a erio o i e in i e ea and d ci g th t p d c ns st d h gh st ps , l ps , n p o si g o fth e ﬁgu re .

64 LUD GATE H I LL : PAST AND PRESENT .

I . wh o the will of Vandyck (the Court painter to Charles , o f o o lived and died in the precinct), Inig J nes , Sir Isaac o f o Newton , J hn Milton , Edmund Burke , and formerly (for o f o it was sent to Paris at the request the late Emper r), the f o . o will o f Napole n I were all deposited here . Each folio ’ o n Shakespeare s will is a polished oak frame , and kept in

- an air tight space between two Sheets of plate glass . The 1 8 o original wills begin with the year 4 3, and the c pies from 1 383, and the more ancient , mostly on strong parchment o o o r o in b und in clasped v lumes , are , were , all wed to be spe c ted on permission obtained from the Judge of the Court o of Probate , who will also allow extracts to be c pied for histo rical purposes .

The marriage licences , however, have been less carefully o 1 6 2 preserved, or at all events they have n ne earlier than 3 , and until 1 695 they are no t complete . But the very name ’ o of Doctors C mmons will soon be either lost or perverted . There is Virtually an end to all that made either the place or its practice truly distinctive . The Probate , Divorce , and Admiralty Division of th e High Court of Justice has absorb ed o f its functions , and perhaps by the time the building the o f h abitu% new Law Courts is ﬁnished , only the memory the will be able to discover the once well - known places where o sat f the advocates fr m Oxford in scarlet and taf ety , and th o se from Cambridge in minever and round black v elvet caps . Yet it is worth while to plunge into the nest o f steep “ o n lanes that lie the bow side of the yard . We are sure o o f o to come up n some quaint remnant f rmer state , some o o o f building nlyhalf dem lished which tells a scrap history , some antique nook o r corner that may remind us how wh o clumsy are the innovators think they are improvers , wh o o o l d a and begin by destr ying th e truly and vener ble , instead o f the commonplace and s o rdid adj uncts of an ’ C o o ut historic neighbourhood, till the handler s sh p blots the o o heraldic blazonry of s me palace gateway , and the s lemn ’ vestibule o fa fo rgotten court or a prelate s hall of judgment crumbles in ruin behind the stall o f a greengrocer or the

- dimly lighted shed o fa retail co al merchant . There is a glamour about heraldry which gives it an ’ T H E H E RALD S COLLE GE . 65

f a o f appearance o antiquity ; but, as m tter fact , the devices n b o rne by the early warriors were but the badges , the disti ctive o o o r - Signs , afterwards associated with the m tt war cries as sumed by leaders o r great families wh o t o ok the ﬁeld with o o o r n their f ll wers , and had a crest desig by which they and — their retainers might be kno wn j ust as the Plantagenets o f o o r o b o re a branch br om , the H uses of York and Lancaster

o o fo r . t o k the wh ite and red r ses their caps The heralds , h o o n o w were , in fact , only messengers the ﬁeld or at the t urna t ments , were acquainted wi h these distinctive emblems , but it was at a late date that they had any auth o rity to pron o unce f o . on the right th e wearers to assume them There was , in f n o o . fact, heraldic science till the reign Edward II I , and ’ r o o r o o f o the He alds C llege , C llege Arms, was f unded by o o o Richard II . at C ld Harb ur H use , Poultney Lane, whence l it n . un sta was removed by He ry VII , that Bishop T might _ have the pl ace fo r a mansio n after he had b een tu rn ed o u t

o f . no t 1 Durham House It was till Mary, in 555, gave - at- m r Gilbert Dethick , Garter King Ar s, and his he alds and ’ n o n o f pursuivants the buildi g the east side Bennet s Hill , o to that the C llege may be said have been established , and — by that time th e adopti o n o f coats -o farms by the leaders wh o had originated them had led to a formal record of

t r n . shields , crests , and quar e i gs t r o o o Af er the G eat Fire , fr m which the b ks and records o f o o f o the C llege Arms were saved , it seemed as th ugh the ’ o ﬁnd n o o fo r fﬁcials would h me , the City s cash had to be o an d o spent for m re immediately practical purposes , nly

about J£7 0 0 was raised by subscription ; but the am o unt to b a n o o fﬁ and required re uild was t ke fr m the ce fees , Sir n - at- o rn William Dugdale, Garter Ki g Arms , m st lea ed and a o f o o f Mo nastico n enthusi stic antiquaries , auth r the great A n l ica u m n - n o o o o wn . g , built the rth west p rti n at his charge n b u t o n The prese t quaint spaci us and handsome buildi g , bro ught i nt o the main th o r o ughfare b ythe exte n sive changes that have been made by o pe n i ng up Q uee n Vict o ria Street to a r o ne o f o o no w Bl ckfria s , is the m st c mplete relics n remai ing o fLo n do n immediately after the Great Fire . It is SO peculiarly fresh an d sharp in all its architectural details that we are alm o st surprised to ﬁnd so mu c h that is 66 LUDGATE H ILL : PAST AND PRESENT . really ancient in its reposito ries ; far more ancient are the m o numents and curiosities to be found there than the

— - escutche o ns bearing the arms o r rather legs o f the Isle f o f o f o Man , and the eagle claw the house Stanley , which o n o f o l d denotes that it is the site Derby House . There fo r o f m are , instance , a pedigree the Saxon kings fro Adam , - —ink illustrated with many ﬁne pen and drawings , executed “ ” w o in the time of Henry VI II . ; the War ick R ll, with a series of the ﬁgures of all the Earls o f Warwick fr o m the o o f Conquest to the reign of Richard I II . the r ll the Tournament at Westminster held in h o n o ur o f Queen f Katherine after the birth o Prince Henry ; the sword ,

o . dagger, and turqu ise ring o f the gallant James IV Of o n o Scotland, who was slain Fl dden Field , and a great f Of o MSS. o r collection papers , certificates , and hist rical If o no other reas n, the College of Arms commands the respect even of the most obstinate objecto r to the heraldic science because o fthe number of eminent men who held high office f -at-A there . The principal sta f consists of three Kings rms — six — Garter , Clarencieux, and Norroy ; heralds Somerset, o t Richm nd , Lancaster, Windsor, Ches er , and York ; and o — f ur pursuivants Rouge Dragon , Blue Mantle , Portcullis , f and R o uge Cro ix . All these O fices are in the gift of the o f o Duke Norf lk , Hereditary Grand Marshal , and among

n - at- the famous Ki gs Arms have been William Camden , auth o r Of the learned and interesting Britannica and A nnal s ' o E l iz abeth m f ; Sir William Le Neve ; Elias Ash ole , the f o f ounder the Ashmolean Museum ; Dugdale , the great o antiquary already menti ned ; Sir J o hn Vanbrugh , wit and ’ o o o f o A nti u ities dramatist ; Francis Gr se , auth r Gr se s q , o w wh o and William Oldys , the queer little fell spent most o f at his evenings the Bell Tavern in the Old Bailey , was to o o o f o no w o fo r rather f nd p rter , and is chieﬂy kn wn the o Anacreontic verse on a ﬂy drinking fr m his cup of ale ,

s rio r ﬂ Bu y, cu us , thi sty y, D r n me and r n as I i k with , d i k F re e e o e to m ly w lc m y cup ,

C o o si and si . uldst th u p, p it up Mak e th e m o st o flife yo u may

Li e is S o r and ear a a . f h t, w s w y AMUSEM E NTS . 67

Bo th alike are mine and thine H ast en i ng q uick to the i r d e cli ne ’ T ne a e r ne n o o re hi s summ , mi m , Tho ugh re p eat e d to threesc o re ; ’ T ree o re er en e re o ne h sc summ s , wh th y g ,

Will app ear as Sho rt as o ne .

o o ne o We cann t , however, omit m re name , well known o o f o % to the past generati n , that James R binson Planch , o o S merset Herald , wh se delightful extravaganzas , as charm ing fo r their v ersiﬁc atio n and their wit as for the superb

manner in which they were placed upon the stage , made the great attractio n o fthe Lyceum Theatre under the man agement Of Madame Ve stris. It is but a few years ago % o l d that Mr . Planch passed away , at a ripe age , still distin uish ed fo r o g his ready hum ur, his facile pen, and for the C f harm o his social qualities . o f There were great transitions during the time Elizabeth , and many changes came ov er Ludgate Hill and its neighb o ur h o . o o n ho d Among ther imp sing la dmarks , the hig cam ’ i - an l e o . a o a p , or bell t wer , by St P ul s Sch ol , dis ppeared when o Sir Miles Partridge wo n it fro m Henry VII I . at a thr w of and o dice , promptly t ok it down and sold the materials perhaps lest his imperi o us debto r should revo ke the stakes . o o f But the age of Bac n and of Raleigh , Of Spenser and

o ne o f . Shakespeare , was progress

In a very deﬁnite sense the people , and especially the “ ” o f o citizens Lond n and the men of light and leading ,

were brought nearer together , and to this the conversion of many Old buildings into pub lic inns and hostelries do ubtless fo r o f contributed , it was here that many the amusements in w hich all classes participated were carried o n . The Old o Bell Savage held a prominent positi n in this respect, and Ludgate Hill and its immediate neighbourho o d was a centre b o o f th the intellectual and the social life o fthat peri o d . It o f is true that some the amusements were not very reﬁned, but they will m o stly bear compariso n with many that are to o e xh i familiar ourselves . We might not t lerate such an b itio n as that o f the ascent o f a horse to the top o f St . ’ o b o Paul s Cathedral , a feat perf rmed y the fam us nag o o o o f Mar cc , wh se fame , with that Bankes , his master, has o f lived in every history the time , and was even alluded to 68 H : A E LUDGATE I LL PAST ND PRES NT .

’ ’ Love s Labour s Lost M by Shakespeare himself in , where oth , to prove the simplicity of a certain problem in arithmetic , “

o . 1 says , The dancing h rse will tell you It was in 595 that all Lo ndon was crowding to Ludgate Hill to see this o was o r fam us animal , who a young chestnut bay nag , trained to perfo rm such tricks as to walk o n its hind legs “ ” o and gravely to dance The Canaries , to carry a gl ve to any person indicated by its master , such as the gentleman ff in the large ru , or the lady with the green hood . It would o f count coins by raps its feet , tell the number of a cast of in o dice , and occasionally assist such j cularities as singling o u t wh o o r the gentleman was in love , the lady who was f o r o . waiting a l ver Along with Bankes and his horse , the Bell Savage was o ften Visited by th e fam o us clown or jester ’ was o o f Tarleton , who landl rd Dolly s Tavern , in Paternoster

Ro w. Tarleton was the pro totype o fthe circus clo wns and o o f o u r m st the other jesters of day , and his witticisms were o f o fo r the constant talk the t wn , which he provided q uips ’ and popular sayings . A b o o k of his j ests Tarl eto n s Jest o was o o f o Bo ke published , and the rder his wit was ab ut “ ” to o f o o f o equal that the b nes th e negro tr upes , or the o f o f d best the circus clowns to ay , but , in the manner of o the earlier jesters , s metimes contained grave and suggestive

o to o r o o f o . allusi ns state affairs , the d ings great pers ns

‘ o o f a to o f During the peri d Eliz beth , and the time the o C mmonwealth , when theatres , stage plays , and public r shows were put down by the sterner Pu itans , and public amusements would have been suppressed alto gether but fo r o o f o the interpositi n Cr mwell, Ludgate Hill and Fleet Street - o f o as far as Temple Bar was the great show place L ndon , for it was the centre, the highway from Whitehall and the ’

o . Strand , where the Mayp le stood by St Mary s Church , to o o o f the T wer and the great trading neighbourho ds Chepe ,

G Le a e nh al l . rass Church , d , and Mart Lane But it was , as o f o f we have seen , the centre ecclesiastical rule and learning an was m o o f also, d this ade m re obvious by the establishment

’ STATION E RS HALL . We have already noted that Paternoster Ro w and th e neighbourhoo d ofLudgate had b ec o me th e quarter whenc e ’ STATION E RS H ALL. 09

o f au d it learni ng was disseminated by means books , is well to remember that the title of Statio ners was at that time applied alm o st exclusively to b o o ksellers , and that this meaning c o ntinued to be attached to it until the beginning o o fthe last century . It signiﬁed a pers n who had a station , r o f o o stall , in some public place for the sale bo ks , and in the middle ages was applied to the o fﬁcial who sold at a stall the books written fo r the particular university with which he was connected . ’ The Stationers Company , which , though it is distinguished by being the only Lo ndo n company restricted to members no w o f the craft implied by its name , consists of dealers in material o as bo o ksel l ers the for making b oks , as well of , was fo r inco rp o rated in the reign Of Philip and Mary , and so to o f nearly two centuries had , speak , a monopoly the a means o f learning . Printers were obliged to serve n to m o f and apprenticeship a ember the company , every book o r printed matter published from a bible to a ” a — to b e ballad, as Peter Cunningham s ys was required ’ w . N o entered at Stationers Hall , the company publishes o f nothing but almanacks , which , till the last few years , they ’ o had a mono p o ly and Old M ore s Almanack , which is the o f o imitatio n a farrago by Lilly , the pretended astr loger ,

in o f . who lived near, Shoe Lane, in the time Charles II , was o ne of their great sources of income . It is no t no w ’ o necessary to enter publications at Stati ners Hall but, by o o o f the Copyright Act , the pr priet r every published work must register his claim to it in the boo ks o fthe co mpany if he wishes to protect himself befo re taki ng legal proceedings o fo r piracy or imitatio n . The company s o n had a local

t o . to habita i n , as well as a name Their ﬁrst hall appears 1 have been in Milk Street , Cheapside , and in 553 they ’ ’

o . o . rem ved to St Peter s C llege , near St Paul s Deanery, where the chantry priests o f the Cathedral had fo rmerly o lived . Between Amen C rner and Ludgate Street, at the e nd o f o Av e o a passage fr m Maria Lane , in the same sp t ’ no w o b o o o f ccupied y Stationers Hall , st od a great h use o o f st ne and wood which , in the days Edward III . , belonged

t o o o f o . o J hn , Duke Bretagne and Earl of Richm nd Fr m o f was him it went to the Earl Pembroke , and called 0 D E H : AN D E E 7 LU GAT ILL PAST PR S NT.

’ Pembroke s Inn , and then came into possession of the A family of Henry Nevill , Lord of bergavenny , and was known as Burgav enny House . This was the place where ’ the Stationers Company was located in 1 6 1 1 (James o n and here, in another building erected the same place , was after the Old Inn burnt in the Fire of London, the d honourable guild holds state to ay . Property to the value ’ of was l o st by the Stationers Company in the F Great ire , but their priceless records are still most inter o esting, c nsisting chiefly of the enormously extensive o f o register w rks for publication , which may be said to be 1 an index to English literature from 557 , the date at which it co mmences . ’ The Stationers Company has been famous, like some fo r its f r other guilds , festivals , and particularly o its venison 1 6 feast, founded in 59 , and held in the large and handsome i o w hall , with its raised da s , its fine wind , and its buffets o r cupboards full o fnumerous articles of quaint and valuable plate , collected since the Great Fire , in which all their o f former possessions this kind were destro yed . That no w o f which remains is chiefly of the time Charles II .

In the Hall have been seen some remarkable meetings , and

o f o . C e c il ian many them are hist rical , such as the St Feast, “ ’ ” 1 6 o in 9 7 , for which Dryden wr te Alexander s Feast , se t 1 6 afterwards to music by Handel , in 7 3 the Refo rm to A o 1 8 1 Banquet Lord lthorp and Lord J hn Russell , in 3 o and others , among which have been s me funeral cele b ratio ns o f great state and magniﬁcence . The chief attrac tion of the Hall to visitors is the interesting and admirable collecti o n of portraits that adorn the walls incl uding th o se o of Steele , Richardson , Prior, P pe , and Dr . Hoadley, ’ Bishop o fBangor, Steele s friend and decorously festive c o m o n panion . It was at an anniversary banquet at the Hall e n f f wh o day that o e o the inferior O ﬁcers of the company , was “ o o u o n kn w as a hum rist, but who that occasion was half ” “ o n h is o seas over, came in knees to drink to the gl rious ” o was memory . Everyb dy present pretty far gone , Steele o o included, and H adley was rather disc ncerted when the “ D o genial writer and wit whispered to him , laugh , my ’ i h u manit to lord ; pray laugh ; t s y laugh , and the good

E A N D E 7 2 LU D GAT H I LL : PA ST PR S E N T .

P E F E R WO R . S D , LAGU , IR , AND EVOLUTION

There is no need to fo ll o w all the subsequent legends o f f o r . m Ludgate Hill during the reign the Stua ts When Ja es I . was ready to be crowned , the plague had been rife in o o ro c e ssIo n n L nd n , and there was no great p ; but the Ki g a o o and o beg n by knighting everyb dy all r und , the L rd May o r and Aldermen had a goo d time of it at the C o ro na o tion Banquet, a circumstance which was pr bably remem a- o a bered when the King went borr wing in the City . I t w s sad a o a time , and B rtholomew Fair was cl sed , th e theatres o o f were f rbidden , and the yard the Old Bell Savage was d unusually silent ; but the distemper having cease , the o pageants and feasting and brave sh ws began , and Ludgate t o o n was alive again wi h a magniﬁcent pr cessi n , wherei the “ King r o de a white gennet u n der a rich can o py Upheld by ” six o f o gentlemen the Privy C uncil . But there was — another kind o f pro cessio n n o t l o ng after a dark and n o o o o f wretched trai , m ving sl wly under the Shad w the ’

fo o f . fo r scaf ld erected at the west front St Paul s , Sir o o Everard Digby , Robert Winter, J hn Grant , and Th mas f r o o . Bates , their share in th e Gunp wder Plot Next day , o m o o Guy Fawkes , Th as Winter , Ambr se R ckwood , and o a R bert Key met a Similar f te at Old Palace Yard , and the quartered b o dies and severed heads o f these unhappy w w o r o n o o n retches ere seen upon the City gates , p les o o o L nd n Bridge , a grues me spectacle . The great festivals , o o a fo r o f pr cessi ns , and Splendid p geants prepared the visit o f n o o o f o o Christian IV . De mark t k away the scent the bl d , fo r o and the c nduits ran wine , were adorned with pretty o a o r n and past r l devices and bowers , where s ngs we e su g o o do u d rati ns were made , and wn the hill thro gh Lu gate f passed a sple ndid train o Danish and E nglish n o bles . f fo r The reign o the ﬁrst James was a lively time Ludgate . h i The Inns were in full swing . Ben J ons o n h ad s Ap o ll o n was Club at the Devil Taver , by Temple Bar, and there

go o dly c o mpany all ro und . Burbage and Shakespeare had Obtained their theatre at Blackfri ars in spite o f the o ppo sitio n o f o was the Civic C uncil , and Fleet Street full Of o o u o o f o sh ws , s me burlesq e indicati n which may be f und C HANG E S 7 3

’ er Man m ur f in Jons o n s E v y in fi ts H u o , where it speaks o “ m o o f o f a new oti n the City Nineveh , with Jonah and the

Whale at Fleet Bridge . Down to a comparatively modern

date these shows continued, and were at their height in the f f reign o Queen Anne . The last o them may still be f u r — b at remembered by some o o older readers y name , ’ — Mr f o s. o O all events as Salmon s c llection waxw rk , at the “ ” o r a o f o f mer pal ce Henry VII I . and Cardinal W lsey , o n b - - was Opp site Cha cery Lane , which , ythe bye , neither a no r o r palace a residence of either the King his Minister, but the ofﬁce o f the Duchy o f Cornwall in the reign o f

m I . o . Ja es , and perhaps the h use built by Sir Amyas Paulet r Mr o s. o o o Bef e Salm n t k it , it was a famous o - c ffee h o use frequented by the barristers o fthe Temple . Our go ssip has already carried us fr o m the days o f do o f f ublet and trunk hose , ruf and farthingale , and indeed we need no t dwell upon the times that fo llo wed the reign o f o r the R yal pedant . N o is there o ccasio n to do m o re than ’ “ ” refer the reader to Sir Walter Sc o tt s Fo rtunes o f Nigel to discover h o w lawless the neighbo urho o d of the Fleet o h o w Ditch had by that time bec me , and between the and l a o f o n Temple Bridewell y the Alsatia L ndon , occupyi g the steep and cro o ked lanes an d sinks that then made the o r n o f ul dist ict o fWhitefriars . We co me o w to ro yal d mina o o a o r ti n , p pular resistance , pl gue , the st cks , th e pillo y , and - o o m o the whipping p st, c urtly agniﬁcence , a decor us royal m o u n o o fa ily, licenti us and scrupul us fav urites , a Church ex c e e din l r o f g ymilitant , and eve ywhere the element organised o o n o ne o fh o t n rev lt the hand , and resistance to the dema d fo r o o C nstituti nal go vernment o n the o ther . ’

. a resto ra St Paul s Church had t ken a new aspect, for the n h ad o a . o o ti s begun by J mes I were ﬁnished , and Inig J nes added to the great rugged structure a splendid but absurdly o o o o o f inc ngru us p rtico at the Western fro nt . It c nsisted o o o f f urteen C rinthian c o lumns , rising to the height forty so o tw Six feet , and disp sed that eight with o pilasters placed in fro nt and three o n each side fo rmed an o blong square o l peristyle , and supp rted an entablature and ba ustrade in

which were the statues o fthe ro yal predecessors o fCharles I . The wh o le o fthe b o dy o f the Chu rch had been cased with L E H L A A 7 4 UDGAT IL : P ST N D PRESENT .

so a and rustic work , th t the ancient details were obliterated , only the general fo rms and proportions left ; and some of the wind o ws were ﬁtted with Italian decorations , so that the ” o u o restoration was a c nf sing and anomalous perf rmance . But the march and tramp o f armed men again sounds

o n . Ludgate Hill The grim , ungracious warriors of the o C mmonwealth are clanking in the streets , and the reign of the sectaries has begun by sweeping away Sh o w and pageant and stage play . Laughter and jest are hushed for the moment at the o l d inns and at th e City feasts . Men o o f lo k grave , and begin to count the number courses , and to wonder wheth er there Shall be no more cakes and al e .

Yet there must be amusements , and the Shops and stalls about Ludgate ﬁnd customers even among the Parliamentary wh o no t soldiers , take up their quarters , only in the inns ’ and taverns , but elsewhere . St . Paul s Churchyard echoes o f with the noise these troopers playing at ninepins , and at o to o unseas nable hours , and they and their comrades Show SO little respect fo r the grand old cathedral that its destruction s f fo r seem almost imminent . Some scaf olding set up repair ing the building has been made over to them for arrears o f a so o f p y, and they take it down hurriedly that part the v ault o f ing falls in and lies in a heap . They dig pits i n the body the church to use as saw-pits for c o nverting this timber into saleable lengths , and their barracks and stables occupy o o o f so another p rti n the cathedral , that only the east end o f o o and a part the ch ir are used for public w rship , a brick wall h aving been raised to separate them fro m th e rest o f o o the building, the c ngregati n entering and departing by ’ o ne o o o of the northern wind ws . Inig J nes s magniﬁcent ’ o o portico is ccupied with milliners and other Sh ps , to con struct which and to make lodgings above them the ends of

. o beams are let into the superb Corinthian columns Of c urse , o f th e statues the kings are tumbled down and broken , and unless s o me change Sh o uld occur the whole ediﬁce will be a heap o fruins .

A change comes with the Restoration , when all the bells in London are ringing, and the streets are gay again with tapestries and rich mats and carpets hung fro m balconies and and windows . The conduits ﬂow with wine , through TH E PLAGU E . 7 5

Lud Gate (which was s o mewhat defaced when other gates and portcullises were destro yed by o rder o fthe Rump Parlia o o o o u t o ment, bef re General M nk f und that he must c nciliate

. o the City) , rides Charles II between his two br thers , the o f o o o Dukes Y rk and Gl ucester , and attended by a gorge us o o cavalcade . There are amusements en ugh now ; and th ugh o no o n Shakespeare and Ben J nson are l ger in Blackfriars , the o f to - yard the Bell Savage is open the merry andrews , jack n - o puddi gs , and rope dancers , while new playh uses are ’ o in o pened Dorset Gardens , in Linc ln s Inn , Salisbury o r o o o f C u t , H lb rn , and other places but the plays are full o o imm ral allusi ns , and the audience has already caught the licence and the immodesty o fthe C o urt . But again these houses are clo sed public assemblies are o fo r o forbidden , and the wh le City is wrapped in gloom , nce o m re the plague has begun its ravages , and the dismal cry o f Bring o ut yo ur dead and the rumble o f the cart that comes to co nvey co rpses to the dreadful pits that have been dug aro und the confines o f the po pul o us neighbourhoods s o u nds like a nightly dirge in the dark and nearly - deserted and streets , where fires of coal bitumen flare in braziers , and o cast a lurid glare upon the dreadful scene . Def e tells us that pe o ple died o f the plague only in that o ne 1 66 year 5, and it was believed that were saved by go ing to live in boats and barges o n the river . The King o to o and C urt went Oxf rd, and there was much hurrying fr o m the City but amidst it all o l d go ssiping Pepys seems o n o to have kept his head, and to hav e g e ab ut his business o SO steadily, after sending his wife to W olwich , which was , f so o to speak, in his o ficial beat as he had ften to go to

Deptfo rd ab o ut the business Of the Fleet . There was little ﬂ e rin kn o wn o f the disease fro m which the pe o ple were su g, and the deaths went o n increasing until s o me atm o spheric no change seems to have o ccurred . The plague was new

n . o fo r o thi g It had been recurre n t in Lo nd n ages , th ugh o a w some impr vements had taken pl ce , and a better ater n b a n 1 80 o supply had bee O t ined si ce 5 , when Peter M rris , a se t - o n o the Dutchm n , had up huge water wheels at L d n o Bridge , which , moved by the rapid tide , became a m tive power to fo rce the water through wooden tubes to the E H LL : A E E 7 6 LU D GAT I PAST ND PR S NT . conduits a method which lasted til l fnearl y the end o f the no t o last century , and did , even in conj uncti n with Sir Hugh ’ M ddel to n s s - y scheme , super ede the water carriers , who plied o o f their trade fro m the c nduits even in the time William I II . o ne There was only remedy for the plague , as it seemed , and that was the destruction o f the nests o finfection which

o d o . was pr pagate , if they did not riginate , it The plague G 1 666 stayed by ﬁre , and with the reat Fire of the Legends o l d o f of Ludgate Hill take a new phase . The buildings which we have recounted the story disappeared , and where was once a great, ancient , and wealthy city stood a vast o o and o n sm uldering plain , dotted in c mplex lines c nfusi g o n o f . ra ks with heaps ruins The pe ple bore it bravely , living in huts in the ﬁelds outside the large space where a o o o once arose churches , m nsi ns , t wers , wareh uses , palaces , o a and marts . Merchants kept t their eng gements , and

o n o . carried their business with d gged , painstaking patience Never was English enduran ce and English c o urage m o re strikingly manifested than in the manner in which this vast calamity was b o rne ; never was English energy and deter mination more Signally exempliﬁed than in the fact that in little m o re than four years an o ther London had arisen from — the ashes of the fo rmer o ne and perhaps to o closely o n — the fo undations o f that which had perished for in Spite o f o f the advice and the desire the great architect , who seemed himself to be an embodiment o f the energy and o f o o fo o ut pluck the nation , the new Lond n , instead pening with broad th o ro ughfares and a great river e nb ankme nt and t d ﬁne streets , wi h the Cathe ral as a centre , was built much

o n o l d . so the lines It was a restoration ; and , where m church and hall and college and ansi o n had fallen , new t r buildings rose wi h the same names and pu poses , and

Ludgate and the Hill, Newgate and the Fleet , and Bridewell o l d a t and the Bell S vage stood there yet , what had been lef o f th e to o latter be rest red into a venerable inn , soon to receive into its capacious y ard the co aches which were to o o to o pen up the c untry Lond ners , and to awaken the ech o es o f the streets with the lumbering clatter o f their wheels . But only the nucleus o f the present capital then no n o f h existed . There were li es ware ouses and immense

E A D 80 LUDGAT H ILL : PAST N PRESENT .

To give an account of the Great Fire it would be only necessary to make copious extracts from Evelyn and dear o l d amusing Pepys ; but their books are now within the o f o reach o fevery reader cheap editions . It is to be n ted that while all Ludgate and the H ill and the surro undi ng C o f thoroughfares were in inders , the gate Lud was little — o f o f inj ured even the statue Elizabeth , the ﬁgures Lud -o f- and his sons , and the coat arms being but slightly damaged . f . o . The Church of St Martin, Ludgate , course , was burnt It was o ne of the most ancient (some said th e most ancient) o fo r was C adwal l o in Lond n, it declared that , the ancient

was . British king, buried here in a former church The one 1 destroyed by the Fire was dated 437 , and was a ﬁne building , with two projecting porches in Ludgate Hill , and a curious l o d. spire . The new church stands farther back than the The little black spire that ado rns the to wer rises fro m a small bulb of a cupola , round which runs a light gallery . o o f Between the street and the b dy the church Wren , always ingenious , contrived an ambulatory the whole depth of the

f . tower, to deaden the sound of passing tra ﬁc The church 66 is a cube , the length 57 feet, the breadth feet the Spire , i ’ 68 s . . o 1 feet high , dwarfed by St Paul s The building c st

1 8s 8d. in erecti o n . 1 6 The font , the gift of Thomas Morley , in 7 3, is encircled with an old Greek palindrome , or line which reads the same a both w ys , and means

C ean e in no t ere th o war l s thy s s , m ly y ut d self.

An o l d carved seat and some ornamented chests in the o f 1 6 0 o f vestry room are the date 9 . Perhaps the Church o fo r St . Martin Ludgate is m st famous the fact that, in 6 1 a 1 o o . 3, the f m us Samuel Purchas was rect r there He ’ ” o f H akl u t s was the editor y Voyages , and brought them “ o o f o o f into his Pilgrims , a w rk ﬁve foli volumes , full f accounts o travels and adventures . It is said that Wren designed the prese n t slender spire ’ o o fSt . Martin s t give a greater impo rtance to the do me Of ’

. o o St Paul s , bef re which it stands as we l ok up Ludgate o Hill from one p int of View . Coleridge used to compare a ’ E E H APOTH CARI S ALL . 8 1

e wh o was a o r certain gentl man , lways putting himself f rwa d ’

o f . to explain Mr . Fox s sentiments , to the steeple St Martin , which is always getting in the way when you want to look ’ at St . Paul s . There is o ne familiar building which has had an associa tion with Ludgate Hill ever Since the rec o nstructio n o f o o l London , but it is not a rest ration . It is rigina , and was “ 1 6 0 erected in 7 , marking a new departure in the practice A ’ of physic . pothecaries Hall , in Water Lane, Blackfriars , at once elevated the druggists ’ business to a professional ’ status by providing the Ap o thecaries Company (inc o rporated by charter in the reign o f James I . ) with a hall and a dis ns r o f p e a y. Originally the physicians formed a part the ’ o n o Apothecaries Company , but professi al jeal usies and the o no t to demand of the ap thecaries only dispense, but to m o . a o prescribe, brought them into c nﬂict It y be menti ned that students at the hospitals still go up to pass an examina ’ tion at Apothecaries Hall , where they are often asked o r o n questions o n surgery, rather what surgery was a s o f o ut o f generation ago , o that some the queries are the line Of modern practice ; and that they are expected to be o o f able to read and explain s me the prescriptions , yellow a o with age, which may h ve been alm st identical with those

o f Le ttso m o r . w Radcliffe , , Garth The quarrel bet een the physicians and the apothecaries began by the latter gradually “ o wh o superseding the regular practiti ners , retaliated by ” wh o re sc ri commencing to see gratis patients , took the p p “ ” tions to the apothecaries to be made up . Then the physicians accused their o ppo nents of making extorti o nate charges , and though the apothecaries indignantly denied it , and o ffered to adopt a scale settled by a c o mmittee o f to physicians , it was decided sell drugs and to dispense medicines at the C o llege o f Physician s at c o st price ; an o o n o unjust pro ceeding which ended in l ng litigati , and , bef re f o b the claim o the ap thecaries was settled y law , to a bitter no t o o n quarrel , nly between ap thecaries and physicia s , but wh o o between physicians themselves , were divided int dis - pe nsarians and anti dispe nsarians. The famous Sir o o Samuel Garth was one of the f rmer, and his fam us “ ” o o f satire , The Dispensary , sh ws us a great deal the 6 82 LUDGAT E HI LL : PAST A ND PR E S E N T.

o f pretty quarrel with the apothecaries , whose Hall he says

N i h e re F ee D i e en in a e rea g wh l t tch d sc ds s bl st ms, To a th e o o naia o fth e T a e w sh s ty ds h m s , T ere an a r re o n a ri in i h st ds st uctu s g h ll ,

Wh ere tyro s tak e their fre ed o m o u t to kill .

The poem is graphic enough , and abounds with bitter and n w o unspari g satire , hich must have t ld heavily at the time , and a o th e but it is now almost forgotten , there are few p as o u o is caries practising such , th gh the m dern chemist o ften accused of illegally assuming the prero gative o f the o f o f physician , instead merely discharging the duty the “ o o o dispenser, and practitioners in po r neighb urh ods are “ o pening Shops for giving medical advice and selling “ “ medicines under the name of dispensaries . Thus his tory repeats itself, even in its less prominent and striking features . ’ o l d o f o The Surgeons Hall , or College Surge ns , which b every reader of Smollett will remem er, was in the Old Go t Bailey , and it was here that Oliver ldsmi h , who was h is then living in a c o urt close by, was rej ected in examina ’ o ro tion for a surgeon s mate . Had he passed we sh uld p “ ” o f bably never have had the Vicar Wakeﬁeld , or the

Deserted Village . The improvement in the public health by the rebuilding o f o a o - Lond n can sc rcely be ver estimated , but we ﬁnd it difﬁcult to realise the conditi o n o fthe streets and th e mean s f o o o to . l comoti n at that time , and even a much later date was d m o f o The pavement etestable , and at night any the f ot n a was so ways were dangerous , and the drai ge imperfect o w that in rainy weather the gutters , especially th se hich “ ” roared and gurgled their disembo guing streams into h o o o Fleet Ditc , were t rrents , and f t passengers were bespat tered with the evil -smelling mud by the bro ad wheels o f o carts and coaches lumbering past . Ben J ons n , Dryden , o h P pe , Swift , and nearly all the satirists have launc ed their n o de unciati ns against Fleet Ditch , as the river came to be n o t I called, and a few of them have told us n striking lan guage what was the conditio n o f the thoro ughfares near at hand . In the narrow streets the sedan chair was the PATERNOST E R Ro w 83

favourite co nveyance ; and no wonder . Only pe o ple robustly o o o sh d c uld walk except in very ﬁne weather , and th ugh after the rebuilding the th o ro ughfares were wider and the o b o o sit o n c aches ecame wider als , while the driver c uld a o fo n b ar o r o box , instead a low astride his h rse , the dangers o f the streets were very c o nsiderable . It must be remem to o in o bered, , that public games were still played the pen n o o o n fo r o spaces , and that it was unc mm n eve t a f ot to n o w o m ball party come rushi g d n fr the Strand . It was necessary fo r safe ty to take the wall side o f the o pavement , and keep as far fr m the road as possible ; but o the wall was m stly taken by the bully , by the butcher , o m o r w o o greasy fr Newgate Market, the s eep , s ty from a court in the Old Bailey . If two bullies o r ro ysterers met ’ o they cocked their hats in each ther s faces, and had a f m n o n tussle till o ne o the was sh o ved i t the ke nel . The — — rule o f the pavement keepi ng to the right as it is prao tised o r o o u r o , sh uld be practised, in time , was un bserved , and indeed the dangers o f the edge o f the pathway were o to o imminent . Str ng posts pr tect the pedestrian from o o r to cart and c ach wheels , to form landmarks prevent him o o o o n a a fr m s using int the gutter d rk nights, were b so o o l u tel y necessary . From the r fs and gutters a ﬂood Often o e o descended , and cl s verhead creaked innumerable signs , which added to the picturesq ue appearance o fthe City more than to its safety o r c o nvenience . Th e houses were not o numbered , and the signs were necessary where p rters, o coachmen , errand b ys , and chairmen had never learnt to

. o o o o s o read The painted b ards , theref re , pr jected fr m h p o n no t ro o r n o fr ts , f m taverns i ns merely , but even fr m the ’ ’

o o in . r o R w b ksellers St Paul s Chu chyard and Patern ster o . At night the danger and difﬁculty o fwalking in the streets w was increased . N o t o nly ere thieves and b ullies lying in o n b u t r o wait at dark c r ers , more unsc upul us and more ter ” rif in rufﬁans wh o me n o f r y g , called themselves Spi it and n n — gentlemen, played their pra ks by ight upset coaches , o and men o pr dded quiet feeble with their sw rds , assaulted o o - w men , and even invented t rtures and ill usage fo r th e. weak and the defenceless who came in their way . They f had various names , and there was a regular successi o n o H I : P AN D PR 84 LU DGATE LL AST ESENT.

- Tit r high life scoundrelism , from the Muns and y e Tus to and the Hectors , in later times the Scourers , the Nickers , H awc ub ites o f the , and , in the day Swift , Gay , and even of o o o Johns n , the M h cks , who made night hideous and the o o - streets a terr r , defying and ften persistently ill using the watch— amusements in which an imitation was successfully attempted in the present generati o n by the Corinthians and o wh o men ab ut town survived the Regency , but were “ o o f defeated by the organisati n the New Police , and the “ o f so disappearance the Charlies , who were frequently fo und screwed up in their watch boxes while the depre dato rs c o mmitted all the mischief that their ingenuity co uld o f o f devise . In the last year the reign Charles II . a bold innovator, named Edward Heming , Obtained a patent giving him the exclusive right to l igh t the streets by placing a lamp before every tenth d o or o n moo nl ess nights fro m ’ c to o six to o o Mi haelmas Lady Day , fr m twelve cl ck , and , o o f small as the impr vement may seem to us , it was immense imp o rtance . Perhaps the most complete change in the occupation o f the inhabitants of streets adjacent to Ludgate Hill was to “ be fo und in Paternoster Row . My wife and I went to Ro w Paternoster , and there we bought some green watered ” mo yre for a morning waistcoat . So writes o l d gossipy

o n 2 rst 1 660 . Pepys in his diary November , For Paterno ster Ro w was not at that time devoted to

- publishing and b o o kselling . It was the head quarters of silk mercers and lacemen till the Fire drove the more fashio nable “ o wa traders in these go ds westward , and then the Row s fo r - fo r a place milliners and tire women a short time , till the booksellers took it . Befo re the Fire the stationers were “ ” mostly in the churchyard itself, in the string, or straight ” — side , where the Chapter house then stood, and its successor

. AS l still stands each stationer had his Sign , the ist of h o uses reads like that o f a row o f taverns . It was at the White Greyhound that John Harris o n ﬁrst published Shake ’ speare s poems ; at th e Fl o wer de Luce and the Cro wn

’ P a C r ar ere o r er no n as Th e two sid e s o f St . ul s hu chy d w f m ly k w “ th e b o w and th e string th e so uth side having th e fo rm o f a bo w l str n and th e no rth Side that o fits rath er s ack i g. — 80 . V G TE 1 7 E TH E RE MO AL OF A LU D GATE H I LL AFT R

H 88 LUD GATE I LL : PAST AND PRESENT . to o o n so ro L nd , and there made themselves busy that a p clamati o n h ad to be issued fo rbidding them to live within o f - o o ten miles the City , suppressing mass h uses and P pish o o o f sch ols , and emp wering the seizure arms found in the possessi o n o fPapists .

All this time, amidst wars , persecutions , revolution , o f o f dismay , recovery , and change dynasty, the work h a n building the great cathedral d go e o n , and it was in thanksgiving for the Peace o fRyswick that the ﬁrst service

was o 2 nd 1 6 . perf rmed i n it , December , 9 7 The ﬁrst stone

1 6 1 1 0 . was laid in June 7 5, and the last in 7 But on 1 2 th 1 0 2 A November , 7 , Queen nne , who had but j ust a been crowned , went in state to the new c thedral with both ’ o f to fo r Houses Parliament, return thanks Marlborough s o victories in the Low C untries , and for the success of Sir 1 0 1 0 6 George Ro o ke at V igo . And in 7 4 and 7 the great o a conqueror Marlb rough himself m rches triumphant , with o a g odly company , up Ludgate Hill , to be entertained at G o the uildhall , where the c lours taken at Ramilies are hung o o f by rder the Queen , while those that were among the spoils of hon o ur at Blenheim are put up in the Hall at i Westminster . Again in the latter year there s a solemn to royal procession the Cathedral , for the union of England and Scotland has been ratiﬁed and conﬁrmed by Ac t of

o . Parliament, and there is s ber rejoicing thereat A year ’ o wa bef re St . Paul s s ﬁnished the famous s ermon denouncing and ridiculing the Whigs , and upholding passive obedience o and submission to regal auth rity, was preached there before

o a o r o o . Sac h ve r l the L rd M y and Corp rati n by Dr e e , the f f o . chaplain St Saviour, Southwark and the ef ect of this and another similar discourse which he had already del ivered at Derby was ﬁrst to provoke the House o f Commons to o f o o pronounce him guilty malicious , scandal us , and sediti us o h im to libels , and , sec ndly, to bring to trial , and thereby o o cause a riot am ng the common people , who th ught that this was a device o f the Presbyterians and Dissenters to o o Sac h ev erel verthr w , not Dr . only , but the Church of o England . To pro ve at o nce th e ir piety and their c nsistency , they escorted the Docto r fro m the Court to his lodgings in th e to n Temple , and then went the Presbyterian meeti g ’

ST . B 8 PAUL S RE UI LT . 9

o f . house Mr Burgess in New Court, gutted the building, ’ r o o to o car ied d rs , casements , and pews Linc ln s Inn Fields , o n where they made them into a pile , with the pulpit the o to r o u t o f top , and s on sent a select party d ag Burgess his r house that they might put him in the pulpit to be bu nt . b o w mo b Fortunately he had escaped ya back wind , and the then directed their energies to destroying the meeting-ho us e o o o in Carter Lane, Blackfriars , and other N nc nf rmist chapels o o in the neighb urh od . The military and train bands were called o ut ; drums were beating o n Ludgate Hill as the

troops marched to Blackfriars . The mo b after some time d was ﬁnally ispersed, and the Doctor who had caused the o riot was inhibited from preaching for three years , his serm ns

being burnt at the Exchange by the common hangman . But h is o u t o b when term was , the Queen , who pr ably relished o fo r his doctrine , and had no great l ve left the Whigs , or o f o for her once dear ally , Sarah , the Duchess Marlbor ugh , ’

f . o . o o gave him the living St Andrew s , H lb rn — In 1 7 1 0 the great Cathedral was ﬁnish e d ﬁnish ed with o f - what anxiety , pain , and sense ill treatment to the o c urageous , patient enthusiast who was its architect , few could tell fo r he not only had to aband o n much that was o o f n ble in his main design , but to alter at the caprice the A o stupid bigot who succeeded Charles . gainst the c ntra dic to ry o rders and o ppositio n o f Court and clergy he had to o fo r o conciliate and to compr mise , and but the strenu us pers o nal efforts he made he wo uld have bee n overthro wn by o o wh o no t o o u t inferi r w rkmen , , after all , did w rthily carry

. was to o his great design All the time that it building, , he o f o mo n artiﬁc er 2 0 0 received only the pittance a c m , £ a year ; and even fo r half o f this he had to wait till the wh o le b uilding was completed . We need no t enter into any descriptio n o fthis vast and o wh o w n splendid structure , for th se visit it ill easily Obtai a to al l o o guide its vari us attractions, its m numents , and its o no w to to o memorials . It is en ugh look up its stupend us o to o d me , enter its still and s lemn portals , and after we have o o r n gazed and dreamed and w ndered , , if it be during Divi e w o an d and service , have listened ith dev ut hearts , sung o o M l ne prayed , to l k at the epitaph which y , the architect 0 D H : AN E 9 LU GATE I LL PAST D PR SENT . o f Blackfriars Bridge , caused to be brought from the vaults o t beneath the church , and placed in g ld let ers over the Choir ub tus o ndi u r S c t , H u us e l e iae et r c o ndito r j cc s u bis , h n C . Wre , Qui v ixit anuo s ul t ra no naginta N o n Si i sed o no i o b b publ c , mo nu m n um r uiri Le o r. Si e t e s ct q , ” Circ umspic e .

2 s d. Yes , the Church was finished at a cost of . 9 , paid for by a tax on coal brought into London . The statue o fthe Queen was placed in the midst of the western o f area , with the figures Britain, France, Ireland , and f America round the base o the pedestal . Bird was the “ sculptor , who also executed the figures in the Conversion

f . o n o . St Paul the entablature , and the statues of St Paul ,

. . o n St Peter, and St James , the pediment . The statue of o Anne is a po r affair, and not more noticeable now than it w 1 2 2 as in the place it formerly occupied . Defoe wrote in 7 sa that it was very masterly done , though he could not y it was extremely like Her Majesty . There were some coarse o and scurril us verses which were made at the time, referring to a ua viteo the pretended liking of the Queen for q , and to the position o f the statue with its back to the Church and - o o f facing a brandy shop , which occupied a c rner the A Churchyard but the character of nne, and the position sh e to had maintain , amidst much personal sorrow, and a sh e to strife in which held a true and faithful part the nation , o n o o f have l g ago c nfuted calumnies , and given her a place honour in the national regard . These and the succeeding years were again palmy days for the shops on Ludgate Hill and the booksellers in Pater o Ro w 1 1 0 Rivin to ns n ster , where , in 7 , g , the Church publishers , lived at th e Bible and Crown, and afterwards ’ ” o D o dsl e s A c ntinued y nnual Register, with Edmund o f Burke as a contributo r . At No 47 (afterwards the house W u Messrs . . R . Chambers) , Robert Baldwin p blished Lo ndo n Ma az ine 1 2 the g , commenced in 7 3 ; and at the Ship and Black Swan were the pr o genitors o f the Lo n mans g , whose dinners and parties to authors and artists E D O F T H E BELL S VA . TH E BRISTOL COACH I N TH E OUTER YAR A G

AY F THE E THE D S O GEORG S . 9 3

were o nce famous fo r the number o f eminent men wh o

were the guests . The principal resort of boo ksellers and authors who had o o so business t gether was the Chapter Coffee H use , often

o . alluded to by p or Chatterton in his letters This , like o o f ther houses the kind , has changed its position Since re that time , and is indeed a tavern adapted to modern u irements no w o q , as publishers and authors seld m transact

business in the Old fashion , and the ancient taverns about ’ St . Paul s Churchyard having mostly disappeared . They

had distinguished visitors in the days of the Georges , how - o f o and o f o ever, the days P pe , Swift , afterwards Doct r o o o o o f Johns n , G ldsmith , and Richards n , and th se Cowper , Mr B rb aul o A s. a d Darwin , Doctor ikin , , Godwin , and ther shining lights o fthe literary revival o f the beginning o fthis o o f o century , who used to meet at the h use J hnson , the f n o o . o o w b okseller , where the premises Messrs Hitchc ck l o . Bo nn c ast e stand , and there dine with their genial h st y , o the arithmetician , was there too , perhaps as the success r in the Yard to Cocker . The supremacy Of the Church was Av e to be found in the ancient days in Creed Lane , Maria o Ro w Lane , Canon Alley , Patern ster , and Amen Corner , f o f o the residence o the clergy the Chapter H use . We will sa o f - o y nothing Do Little Lane, which was pr bably named after some learned prebend ; while Addle Lane is a c o r wh o ruption of Athelstan, the Saxon King , had a palace there ; and Sermon Lane has been disputed in favo ur o f “ ” Sh ere mo ne y, because Old Change , Cheapside , was the o l d f o original Mint o the Edwards , and in the lane cl se by were the shearers o r clippers o f the round pieces o f metal , who thus prepared the coin fo r stamping after it had “ o o Bl ac kl o ft c me fr m the ( in the same lane) , where the silver was melted . ’ o f o f o o One the most interesting all the b oksellers sh ps , ’ o r f o f . ewb e o h wever, was that Mr N y, the publisher children s ’

o o o o f . and b ks , at the very c rner St Paul s Churchyard w no o . f Ludgate Street, ccupied by Messrs Gri ﬁth and wh o n o f o l Farran , mai tain the juvenile reputati n o the d

- - o . o o Two o h use Here was issued the riginal G ody Sh es , ” n o o r a Vale tine and Ors n , and all the st ies th t , with L D L : E 94 U GATE H I L PAST AND PRES NT .

o o their staring queer w dcuts and gilded cov ers , used to delight the hearts o f o u r great - grandfathers when they were o nly j ust breeched and had a crown -piece to spend on d Lu gate Hill . There must have been rare company in the taverns and o o f G inns ab ut Ludgate Hill in the early days the eorges ,

“ o o f and , d ubtless , the Old Bell Savage had its share it , even o S ectato r after Addis n had written about it in the p , and o o o when the ﬂying c aches , going for the wh le j urney at an o f o average ﬁve miles an hour, had come to be rec gnised as o f o f the consummation the art travelling, and when the ut f o n mails went o regularly in coaches o their w . Steele and h is j o vial c o mpani o ns in the City have probably had ’ o w o o o r many a b l Of punch and tobacc at D lly s elsewhere , fo r o n o sm ki g had been long established as a c mmon practice , and there were tobacco houses to which country sq uires o and men about town went to have , as it were , a sm king o o debauch , coming out dazed and drunk , and nly rec vered o wh o by c ffee and wet cloths round their temples , as those o no t list may read in that curi us but always edifying book, “

o . The L ndon Spy , by Ned Ward There were alehouses and o rdinaries enough all ab o ut this neighbo urhood to suit o to any purse , and we ﬁnd Swift in his J urnal Stella saying , — ’ . to To day I was all about St Paul s , and up at the p o o two like a f l , with Sir Andrew Fountain and more and spent seven Shillings fo r my dinner like a puppy . This is the sec o nd time he has served me so but I will never do o — u nc o n it again , though all mankind sh uld persuade me ” t o o side ring puppies . Such is the fretful intima i n in ne o f ’ o to th se saddest of epistles , Swift s letters Stella, wherein we se e o o f was the gl omy , carping temper the man , who , even o o f then , approaching the dark and melanch ly end his ’ To o t an d turbulent disputes . g to the top of S . Paul s pay fo r o wn d o f his inner afterwards, instead being treated, as he o o n had h ped and might reas ably have expected , when he c o uld il l affo rd m o re than a Shilli ng o rdinary There is no f o o reco rd o the spectacle fr m the g lden ball , and yet Swift might have written a great satire on the subj ect . o There was one man who , perhaps more than p et, o r essayist , even dramatist, preserved for us the true picture

H L : A T AN E 96 LUDGATE I L P S D PRES NT .

o o with red cl th , was garnished with g odly banners and o streamers , and hung with emblaz ned sh ields , while a band o f sh a b ush e s o h shalms , g , and divers t er instruments o made good harm ny , as the fifty barges of the City Com anie s f p , marshalled by three light wherries with o ficers , o f llowed , all gorgeously bedight and before all went c o ntainin a a an o ther barge full of ordnance , g dr gon vomiting r and o wild fi e , surr unding it terrible monsters and savages o also vomiting fire , discharging squibs , and making hide us noises . Flags of silk , and sails Of cloth of gold and silver , o f banners with devices and shields beaten gold , were the ’ f was decorations o the Lord Mayor s barge , and there also a fl o ating pageant of a white falcon o n a rock environed with w o hite and red roses , the c gnisance of the House of

Boleyn . There have been some no t very intelligible or successful attempts to revive the Old civic pageants even in our o wn time , but the last example of the truly gorgeous shows o f o f o f the Middle Ages was that J ohn Leman , the Fish ’ o m ngers Company , who was Mayor in the reign of James I . was o f The pageant designed by Munday, one the Shake s earean no w p dramatists , and the drawings , in possession ’ f o f o o . the Fishmongers C mpany , are full fancy The ﬁrst

- o r ﬁsh in . pageant represented a buss , Dutch gboat, on wheels The ﬁshermen in it were busy drawing up nets full of live

o o . fish , and thr wing th em to the pe ple On the mast and at the head o f the boat were the insignia of the company ’ St . Peter s keys and two arms supporting a crown . The o second pageant was a gigantic cr wned dolphin, ridden A o by rion . The third pageant was the King of the M ors , o n riding a golden leopard, and scattering gold and silver six freely around him . He was attended by tributary kings o in gilt armour on horseback , each carrying a dart and g ld f and silver ingots . This pageant was in honour o the Fish ’ o . m ngers brethren , the Goldsmiths The fo urth pageant ’ was the usual picto rial pun on the Lord Mayor s name and o o — o f crest . The car b re a large lem n tree full golden fruit , n n A with a pelican in her nest feedi g her you g (proper) . t the top o f the tree sat five children , representing the five s as senses . The b o ys were dres ed women . each with her ’ a h . A LORD MAY OR S SH o w (from H og rt )

E AN D E I O O LUD GAT H ILL : PAST PRES NT .

f u o . o sto pped at the house Mr Barclay , the Q aker, where fr m saw the balcony , hung with crimson silk damask , they the w to civic pageant go by , and then follo ed the feast at

Guildhall . But just before the pageant arrived came Mr .

Pitt in his chariot, accompanied by Earl Temple ; and o fo r the great comm ner had the real honour, at every step o f the mob clung about every part the vehicle , hung upon

o . the wheels , hugged his f otmen , and even kissed his horses o o f It was a rough time, the success r still rougher times , when an enthusiastic mob would not be denied , and it required some nerve to face the imminent danger of popularity . W so l ilkes must have found it , for he ran the gaunt et o o both of fav ur and disfavour when his trial was pr ceeding , after the obn o xious number o f the N o rth Brito n had been issued from Ludgate Hill ; and a later date , when , on his b n o ei g arrested, the p pulace unhorsed the coach , turn ed o u t o o the tipstaves , who w uld pr bably have been killed but ’ fo r i n t an d r w o a W lkes e trea ies , d e the p pul r representative i l s l l ﬁ l o fM dd e ex up Ludgate Hil and as far as Spita e ds.

T H E F E E E E M E TH E M TH E L T , FL T ARRIAG S , AR KET , P B B D . RISONS , LACKFR IAR S RI GE “ Even to those o f us who have heard of runaway o n matches and marriages at Gretna Green , the borders between England and Scotland (where it used to be pre o tended, but with ut much authenticity , that the ceremony — was perfo rmed by a blacksmith) the Fleet marriages are now scarcely credible . There is ample evidence , however, w — in o that ithin the Fleet or its liberties dingy l dgings , low o r o — a o f o - o taverns beerh uses number bes tted, broken d wn , and unscrupulous parsons , drunken chaplains, and other debased clergymen carried o n a competitive business in n marrying pe o ple with little or no cerem o y . Some of those weddi ngs were o riginally perfo rmed in the chapel of the prison but the business b ecame so extensive that they were afterwards celebrated in some dingy ro o m in o ne o r o ther o f

o f o o . the taverns, each which kept its b k of registers These r n o t o f o in mar iages were , c urse , strictly legal , and yet such a condition was the ecclesiastical l aw that they were tacitly FL E E T MARRIAGES . I O I

o ne o f rec o gnised as being valid , and if conducted by the

Fleet pars o ns were no t to be dissolved . A c o llectio n o fthe o to n o n registrar bo ks , weighing more than a , and rec rdi g Fleet marriages b etween 1 686 and 1 7 54 were purchased 1 8 2 1 o t by the Government in , and dep si ed in the registry ’ o f o o o o o o n ofﬁce of the Bishop L nd n in D ct rs C mm s , and t among the names are many of great celebri y and high rank . There were three classes o fmarriages at the Fleet - those of couples who had eloped and desired to be married imme diatel y and secretly th o se wh o foll o wed a ki n d o f fashion “ (for it became fashionable with a certain fast set of people to o r wh o be married at the Fleet) , , having made up their to o o minds in a moment , hurried the pars n bef re they had time to change it ; and th o se in which women were in v e i l e d o o r o g under s me false pretence , f rcibly carried there , and intimidated int o co nsen ting to a cerem o ny o fwhich they no t inc o did understand the meaning, but which by a few

- herent wo rds bo und them to a life long compact . The o o o r parsons had t uts ab ut Ludgate Hill and Fleet Market , themselves stoo d at their do o rs inviti ng likely c o uples to come in and be married ; and it may b e imagined what f were the scandal o us results o such a disgraceful practice . ’ A bride o r a bridegro om co uld be found at a few mi n utes o notice for a considerati n , and registers could either be ‘ - destro yed o r ante dated if a suitable arrangement were made . to It was known that extravagant ladies had been the Fleet, fo r o and had hired husbands the cerem ny, merely that they might o btain a certiﬁcate enabling them to evade their credito rs by pleading coverture agai n st any action fo r debt .

Marriages , with a license certiﬁcate and a crown stamp, at a uinea o o to n o g , at the new chapel , next d r the chi a sh p , - no t near Fleet Bridge , by a regular bred clergyman , and by ” a Fleet pars o n is part o f an advertisement in the D aily Advertiser in 1 7 49 and a handbill of the period “ invites candidates fo r matrimony to the true chapel at the o o o Old Red Hand and Mitre , three d rs fr m Fleet Lane , ” o o to w o and next d r the White S an , where the cerem ny was “ a o b S mso n performed by uth rity , y the Reverend Mr . y , o educated at the U niversity fCambridge , and late Chaplain ” o f to the Earl o f Rothes . An emphatic line at the fo o t 1 0 2 LUD GAT E H I LL : PAST AN D PR ES E NT .

B t o o . . t . o the bill is , N Wi h ut imposi i n One wind w bears “ ” a board, with Weddings performed cheap here an o ther “ ann o unces The old and true Register and at the o o o o - o H rsesh e and Magpie, the Rainb w C ffee h use at the o o f n o c rner the Ditch , the Ha d and Pen , the Bish p Blaize , Bo the Fighting Cocks , the Naked y, and other brandy n - o o f shops , taver s , and ale h uses , some them kept by the o o f o f fo r turnkeys , and m st them houses call the parsons , o who are called in by the landl rd , and share their fees

o o n . with him , the nefarious work g es daily Besides the o r numbers who are married by force guile , and those wh o are now and then kidnapped and ro bbed by being frightened o u t o f th e fees before they are permitted to o o f o o escape , sc res pe ple go thr ugh the Fleet ceremony o f i n preference to that the regular celebration at church , and parties of half- intoxicated sail o rs and their lasses fr o m o f o Wapping, or ther roysterers with their partners , have been kn o wn to go to be married as a kind o f termination o n o f to a fr lic . The same ki d marriages were also held

at Mayfair , where a rascally clergyman named Keith , o C fam us in those days , had a hapel , and , as Horace Walpole “ o said, made a very bish pric of revenue . This fellow o n was excommunicated , but he retorted by exc mmunicati g o wn o o f at his chapel the bish p , the j udge the Ecclesiastical

o two o . o C urt, and reverend doct rs He was impris ned o f in the Fleet , but left curates in charge his Mayfair W o o . business , and c mmenced an ther in the prison hen it was threatened that the bish o ps would put an end to o n these illegal marriages , Keith sw re he would raise m o ey o f o fo r - to buy a pl t o gr und a cemetery , and under bury an d them . The Fleet Mayfair marriages were a public o scandal , but the latter especially were supp rted by the u o f o aristocracy . It was in Mayfair that the D ke Hamilt n , wh o was impatient to marry o ne o f the beautiful Miss o o Gunnings , had the marriage cerem ny perf rmed at the a — ch pel at half past twelve at night . Keith died in the Fleet o 1 8 o pris n in 7 5 , f ur years after the Act against clandestine o o f marriages came into o peration . The pe ple rank were b e a a coming little larmed at the fashion of the Fleet, but the mischief had become so great that the business increased

TH E FLE ET D ITC H . 1 0 5

’ during the few m o nths i n terval between the passing o f the n d Act and its o perati o n , a therefo re befo re the law came o 2 1 a in o ne in f rce 7 marri ges were entered there register , 6 1 o so and marriages were perf rmed at Mayfair , eager were o o f n so co uples to make the m st the i terval , and much had the evil custom prevailed .

Fleet Market , which was established when the Fleet Ditch h ad been c o vered in fr o m the c o rner o f the fo o t o f to o o f Ludgate H lb rn Bridge, was instituted when the site o ’ o o f o fo r Stocks Market , at the c rner the P ultry , was wanted o f o 1 8 the building the Mansi n House in 7 3 , the year in wo o r o o which t large birds , said to be eagles c rm rants , were o ne o n o o o n seen perched the cr ss , and the ther the pine ’ f . o o o o o t apple o n St . Paul s All sorts superstiti us n ti ns g

b o to o . a ut , and the appearance was said be omin us Very fo r o n likely it was , the naval auth rities , seei g what crowds o n u o o n a o f b assembled L dgate Hill , t k adva t ge pu lic curiosity by securing a live turkey to the to p o f the monu and a o f ment on Fish Street Hill , when a l rge number pe o ple had gone to stare at it the press - gangs made a raid and kidnapped a number o flikely y o ung fell o ws to be taken ’ to serve o n b o ard His Maj esty s ﬂeet . The p risons o f a o f Bridewell , the Fleet , Newg te , and even that Ludgate , o o b o o were still in full peration , and the wh le neigh urh od o about the Fleet Valley , and indeed fr m Temple Bar to the Ol d o w to o Bailey , and fr m Bride ell Saffr n Hill , teemed with the haunts o f Vice and crime . There were h o uses which o f o o m o f were dens murderers , c iners , and thiev es , and s e o n a so a them c mmu icated by cellars and secret pass ges , th t victims who were decoyed int o them c o uld be made away o f men o with , and the bodies missing were m re than once a discovered in vaults and d rk passages . It seemed as o o f though the great pris n Newgate , which , like the Fleet b b and Bridewell , had een re uilt after the Fire , attracted the o - o n to o o n ga l birds , by an evil fascinati , h ver ar u d its pre c inc ts to o o o f o an d b o , and r st in the tangle c urts alleys a ut the banks o f the fo ul stream which ﬂ o wed in the H o lb o rn f Valley at the fo o t o Ludgate Hill . When Fielding wrote o o f o that strange , repulsive hist ry J nathan Wild, the trade

o f - o ne fo r % the thief taker and the thief was , the thief taker H : E E 1 0 6 LU D GATE ILL PAST AND PR S NT .

o was ften the decoy , and himself had graduated in crime “ ” that he might afterwards live o n the bl o od m o ney gained n n o n wh o o c n by i formi g his victims , had nce been his o N o t e . o federates only was the Fleet Ditch , b f re it was

E T H E LAST O F F L ET D ITC H .

n o n to n wh o o e cl sed , da gerous passe gers , at night ften fell n o into the black stream a d were dr wned , but it was the d ark sce n e o f midnight murders perpetrated in the im penetrable j ungle o fdecaying and ruinous h o uses that sto o d A ’ o n the space on the Fleet Street side towards St . ndrew s

Church .

H 1 0 8 LU D GATE ILL : PAST AND PR E SENT .

Of m o . H 1 60 the cri inals from the gall ws ere, in 7 , the c o rpse o f Lo rd Ferrers was bro ught from Tyburn for the o o f o completi n the sentence by disemb welling, and here it ’

to . o N o . 1 2 was exposed View Near Surge ns Hall , at , o o Green Arbour C urt , at the c rner of Breakneck Steps , Seac o l e o o 1 8 in Lane , l dged Oliver G ldsmith from 7 5 “ to 1 6 h o 7 0 . It was ere he was writing his P lite Learning

Enquiry when Dr . Percy called o n him and found h im i h e o f n o . t great p verty At bottom Breakneck Steps , a 'a when the pl ce existed at much later date, might still o f be seen a massy fragment the old city wall , which was u r l o o o . Seac o e o near the Balli m , uter bail Lane was pp site ’

to . o the entrance the Old Bailey from St Martin s C urt,

Ludgate Hill . The present Central Criminal Court , estab l ish e d in 1 8 o o f n 34, f rms part the Sessio s House , divided by a br o ad p aved yard from the prison . Here every kind o f o f o n o o ne f ence is tried , and the j ur ey is a Sh rt from “ ” “ ” ’ f o do ck to cell . The site o Surge ns Hall was taken o f o l d an d o into that the Justice Hall , the Sessions H use 1 0 d and C o urt House were built on it in 8 9 . Even to ay any o ne wh o re- o o r visits the entirely m delled prison , Sits and to o listens the trials in the Sessions H use , may fancy that he sees some o fthe remnants that have been bequeathed to us o o o f fr m the evil times when , every M nday , the front the gaol a h o rrib l e W showed spectacle , hich was supposed to be in the interests o f human ity and even the though ts o f the stately n - o o di ing ro m ab ve the Old Court , where , during the Old ’ Bailey sittings , the sheriffs dinners are served , at which judges a sit o and civic ofﬁci ls and pleaders d wn daily , remind us of the line that marks the carelessness o f justice and the hurried heari ng o f evidence and pro n o unci ng sentence in the days when it was said

Wre tche s hang that ju rym en may dine .

o f wh o n o t There are many us remember, without a shudder , at and h o w a the hanging days the Old Bailey , , with Sicken u r rb a ing sense, we have h r ied past j ust as the tu ulent , ho rse , a n o o r and brutal cro wd c me p o uring i t Ludgate Hill , went Smith ﬁel d o w was v their way towards , when the Sh o er , and the rigid corpse had ceased to swing , and was cut down . E H E 1 0 MOR C ANG S . 9

r n no w no It seems hor ible to thi k of even , and yet it was l o nger ago tha n 1 864 th at the seve n pirates were hanged o n there fo r murder on the high seas . It is a sh rter time si ce the gallo ws and its dreadful burden was taken inside the so t t o o o n o n o gaol , hat sensi ive pe ple c uld g , eve a M nday , a o f a d o wn the Old Bailey . The spect the pl ce has changed ’ il l iams s o o since then . W famous b iled beef Sh p , which used so o w o o r n disa to be cr ded after an executi n m ni g , has p o to a o peare d. We sh uld all be Shocked he r that a pris ner n and b o was to be ha ged in public again , yet it is held y s me that the very fact o f our Shirking the sight and hiding the deed is an argument in favo ur o f ab o lishing the gall o ws r fo r n o t altogether . We leave that a gument , it is within the sco pe o fthese memorials but h o w far we seem to have go t o o f o o l d fr m the times Jack Sheppard , the g od times when — r r prisoners were hung in batches the murde e , the highway o n o wh o man , the unf rtu ate w man has pilfered that she no t o f wh o to might starve ; the lad guilty petty larceny , had stand o n a sto ol because he was to o small fo r the ro pe to reach him These were the times when the p ris o n had its o n n in revenge even the Court , and whe the rue strewn fro nt of the d o ck and the bench c o uld n o t avert the gao l o o n o o fever that crept fr m the l athsome cells i t the c urt itself, o an d H o and struck do wn judge and c unsel o fﬁcers . w far we are even fro m the days whe n my Lord Tomnoddy “ jumped up at the news , exclaiming,

Ro p ed anc e rs a sc o re ’ I v e seen befo re a ame S a An o n o and a e r a o re M d cchi , t i , M st Bl ckm ; But to see a man swing A th e end o fa rin t st g, i n i Wi h s e n a n o o e b n w n . th ck s , will e q uite a e thi g

’ W o o f . o hen Barham (Ingoldsby) , can n St Paul s , wr te his o f r in r satire in the house the cle gy the churchyard , eve y o o o wind w at the tavern , and other houses pp site Newgate o was o n n n o Pris n , let at a high price ha gi g m rnings , and

“ ru fﬁanl mo b from early dawn a y pushed, and swore , and o o o o o o yelled , and hooted bel w ; h ted at auth rity , h ted at

respectability , cursed at remonstrance , yelled the wretched o f o u being who was the centre attraction t of the world , I I O LU D GATE H ILL : PAST A N D PRESE NT .

o and f ught and robbed , and sometimes nearly murdered

under the very gall o ws itself. The o l d Pris o n o f Ludgate was pulled down when the o l d gates o f the City were remo ved on the accessio n of 1 60 o . o Ge rge III in 7 , and h wever much the ancient o f structure the gate itself may have been regretted , the way was opened clear and free fro m the fo o t o f the hill to ’

. f St Paul s . The very walls o the wretched prison might have echoed the sighs o f the wretches who had been n i carcerated there , and there were sermons in the stones , but they were all carted away and s o ld as buildi ng materials fo r 1 o f £ 48 . The statue Elizabeth was placed in a niche ’ f un tan s o o . D s the uter wall of St Church , Fleet Street, f f where it remains . The ﬁgures o the family o Lud were o re— presented to Sir Francis G sling , who meant to erect them at the east end of the same church , but somehow they o - were st wed away in the parish bone house , where they o f o remained till the Marquis Hertf rd bought them , and ’ . D unstan s its along with the old St clock and two giants, o n v that struck the hour a bell , took them to his illa at ’ ” o o Regent s Park . The few p r debtors who were at Ludgate were removed to the Londo n Workh o u se in o Bish psgate Street , where it is to be hoped they fared better than by the begging- box and the do les of their o l d gao L

was o f . The Fleet , however , full prisoners It had been t r o l d o rebuilt af er the Fi e , and the prison , which had nce o f been the scene of the Court the Star Chamber , was no o changed . There were State pris ners , but it was still b the a ode Of misery and cruelty , and the poor debtors , o f o o r n o victims rapaci us i different govern rs and gaolers, to were loaded with irons , placed sleep in damp cellars , o starved, uncl thed , and to judge from the revelations that o o were made, often t rtured by wo den manacles , shaped like ’ - o th e o a tailors sleeve b ards , br ad end h ving a hole for the fo r neck , and the narrow end one the right hand, which had to b e n n o t constantly raised a shocki g punishment , excelled by boot and screw . Bridewell , too , had been rebuilt after no w o f o the burning, and was a place ref rmation and fo r o o b d a s t pu nishment pers ns f a ch rac ter, who were e to

1 1 2 D H : AN D LU GATE ILL PAST PRESENT .

f was ef ect . Of what the Fleet Prison when it was devoted o f - h only to the reception debtors , the same master hand as given a faithful and pathetic narrative in the famous Pick w ” ick Papers , and to them also we surely need scarcely refer o ur readers . o was o n o f - a Fleet Pris n the east side the Market large , o n o l ng brick buildi g, shut in by surrounding h uses and high

walls , and with galleries in every story leading from one end of the house to the other with the roo ms fo r the pris o ners on to each side . In order understand what the Fleet Prison was really like it is necessary to read between the lines o f the reports that were from time to time made upon it before it o was finally pulled down . Pr bably the m o st authentic o ial fic statement is to be found in the evidence of Mr . o Nicholas Nix n , himself the deputy and sole acting warden fro m this we learn that the o nly o ther o fficers b eside the - o ne deputy warden and his clerk were three turnkeys ,

o ne e . watchman , and scaveng r The turnkeys were paid a guinea a week each , and had each a room , which they par i ff o t tio ned o and occasionally let to pris ners . The watch man was also the acting scavenger, and the crier to the

1 0 s. 6d prison , and, being himself a prisoner, received . o as a week and a free l dging , as well some emoluments for o t bringing down pris ners o inquirers , and for lighting the t lamps in the galleries . Thef s were common in the prison , “ ” o f and it was the duty the crier to cry the stolen articles . o ne wh o There was crier was himself the thief, purloining portable pr o perty that he might cry it and obtain the reward for its reco very . All manner o f provisions were b rought into the prison and sold as they might be in the streets , but only with the o f and authority the warden his deputy , and beer and ale o n o f was sold at the tap was the credit the deputy . There fo r recently no licence selling wine , and spirituous liquors

- o . o were pr hibited The c ok and the racket master, being

f o f . o ﬁcers the prisoners , were elected by them twice a year Only prisoners wh o paid their entrance fees were entitled to ’ o to o o n master s admissi n ro ms in the prison the side,

where they had a priority to chummage , or being placed o n to share a room with others , according to rotation their 1 1 FLEET PRISON . 3

fe w seniority as prisoners . A venerable prisoners were ch u mmed exempt from having newer arrivals upon them , o r sent to share their r o o ms . No fees were paid o n the co mmo n side , which was devoted to the unfortunate prisoners u who swore they were not worth ﬁve po nds in the world , and were allowed to participate in the subscriptions collected -b - fro m passers y at the begging grate , where each of the o to fo r o entitled pris ners stood ask alms , each in rotati n ,

- - fo r n o o . twe ty f ur h urs Besides the begging grate , there were s o metimes charitable donati o ns distributed am o ng the very o 0 0 fo r o p orest prisoners , and £ 5 a year , granted the purp se Ac o f o o o by t Parliament , was distributed am ngst the p r pris o ners indiscriminately . S o me o f these unfortunate o n o so wretches waited the wealthy nes , and added a little to the miserable pittance which o f itself wo uld seldo m keep

- them from starvati o n . The racket masters earned a guinea a

- week each , as they were paid by the game . Fifteen pence a ’ week was the rent o fa lodging o n the master s side . Lights and ﬁres had to be extinguished in the coffee -room and ’ o o o tap at eleven cl ck , bef re which all strangers were expected to leave the building ; but this was no t always o f o o complied with , and scenes ri t and dis rder were o f frequent , while the morals the place were represented by a small and almost unknown quantity . There appears to

v r o o . ha e been constant neglect, mise y , c nfusi n , and disorder Two o n - clubs were established, e in the co ffee ro om and o - an ther in the tap room , to which strangers were admitted . was The chapel very badly attended, though the priso n o f A gates were kept locked during the time service . t o n other times the key was turned , the average , about once “ ” . o a minute The pris n was nearly secured against fire , th e o to all ro ms except the p flight being arched with brick . 0 f N O ficial medical attendance was provided . Four times a year an o fficer of the Court o f C o mm o n Pleas went to l o ok o at the prison , bef re each term , and it was whitewashed as o to r often as that operati n was thought be necessa y , and repaired about once in three years . There were about 0 0 o rul es 3 pris ners in the building and the , which extended o f to a portion the neighbourhood, to about the circum - o f ference of three quarters a mile , where prisoners might be 8 H D I I 4 LUDGATE ILL : PAST AN PRESENT .

entitled to take a lodging by giv ing sufﬁcient security to the

“ - warden by an instrument upon a twenty shilling stamp , and by paying an enquiry fee and percentage o n the am o unt

of the debt . These and other fees formed the rather hand some emoluments o f the warden or his deputy ; and there were also day rules to enable prisoners to be o u t during - t term time e v ery day the Court sa . The expense of a day fo r 2 s. rule was £ 7 the whole time , if the charge was

. d s 6 . 0 0 . under 5 , and 4 a day additional Thus amidst

squalor , misery, and vice, lived the prisoners in the o f Fleet and its rules , and many them lived in a kind o f as coarse luxury and profusion , which w all the more striking because Of the sickness and starvation to which the f o n penniless suf erers the poor side were condemned . Fleet Market occupied the space now occupied by Far rin do n g Circus , and extended from the east end of Fleet

Street to the bottom of Snow Hill . It really consisted o f ’ t o f o wo rows butchers Shops , a turret with a cl ck in the o centre , and at the n rth end an Open space with stalls for

ﬁsh and vegetables . o f In a later edition the Pickwick Papers Mr . Charles

Dickens , in noting that vast improvements had taken place i s since t ﬁrst issue , was able to conclude with the triumphant “ and th e Fl eet P riso n is ul l ed down — n words , p a e v ent to wh ich his admirable exposure o f its abuses doubtless con 8 2 . was 1 tributed It abolished in 4 , and the few inmates

‘ ’ h o m ere drafte w then re ained w d to the Queen s Bench . was u The site , comprising about an acre, p rchased of the Government by the C o rporation o f Lond o n fo r

1 8 6 d . In 4 the prison was taken own , and the materials sold The whole area both o fthe Fleet and o fthe nest o fwretched houses demolished o n the removal of the market to the new — Farringdon Market lay fo r seventeen years a waste a ruin o f di e o f - bricks , stones , and excavations , resort betting men o f rufﬁan o and touts , and the haunt the London , who f ught,

gambled , and indulged in horse play until the commence ment of the work for bridging the Holborn Valley with the

new viaduct . 1 th O 1 6 From the 9 f November, 7 9 , there had been a

bridge across the Thames at Blackfriars , and the Fleet Bridge

1 1 6 H AND E LUDGATE I LL : PAST PRES NT .

With the completion of the bridge a great improve

ment took place in the neighbourhood . The streets were o o il - e still dark , lighted nly by lamps but these w re placed as at more frequent intervals , and , dim they were, gave some

o . light, especially in pen thoroughfares The pavements b ewa s were still defective , and in the y y and side streets

the mud and gutters were a common nuisance , and a

o no r . e seri us danger , were robberies infrequent Still , ther was a great change since Johnson wrote ,

Pre are fo r ea if e re at ni o u ro a p d th h ght y m , And Sign yo u r will befo re yo u sup fro m ho m e S o e fier fo i ne w o n ain m y p, w th c mmissi o v Wh o sl eeps o n brambl e s till h e kills his man ; S o e ro r n ar ree in ro a ea m f lic d u k d , l g f m f st, i n Pro o e a ro a d a o u f r a . v k s b l , st bs y o jest Y et e e n e e e ro e i ie a v th s h s, m sch v o usly g y, Lo r o fth e re e and erro r o fth e wa ds st ts t s y, ’ Fl ush d as e are i o o and ine th y w th f lly, y uth , w , Their p rudent insults to th e p o o r co nfine ’ A ar e ar th e flamb eau s l t a ro a f th y m k igh pp ch , A nd n th e S inin rain and o shu h g t g l d e n co ach . W hat with these Hectors and the armed footpads who, in a g ngs , waylaid and robbed people even in the City , London was a danger o us place at night in the middle of the last o - century , and with the d ubtful aid of the link boys who to Ga u s professed light belated passengers , for , as y tells ,

Trust him no t al o ng th e l o ne ly wall ' In th e d a e e n th e ﬂ a n ran mi w y h ll q u ch mi g b d , ’ And are h il in an sh t e b o o ty with th e p fr g b d . S e e th e re e e re o ra till k p public st ts, wh ily ys , ’ r m a h a S o o th e r a a o e rs re d t . h t f c yst l l mp , p y w ys

The oily rays were to be extinguished in good time , how ever, in favour of the brighter illumination . The Paving 1 6 2 - and Lighting Act of 7 did much , and the lamp lighter became an important pub lic character ; but o n the 2 8th of 1 80 o January , 7 , Winzer had illuminated Pall Mall with c al ” as 1 8 1 2 g , and , in , he had formed his c o mpany (the origin o f was the Gas Light and Coke Company), and London n resple dent . - E 1 W E LL KNOWN C H ARACT RS . I 7

LUDGATE HILL IN TH E N EW LIG H T . Blackfriars Bridge had been ﬁnished while England was at war with America and at war with France, in th e f midst o slack trade , want, and public disturbance ; but yet o f the great thoroughfares were full life and bustle , the o f o n Shops were gay , and the business the world went . o o f Ludgate Hill had had its shows and processi ns, one fo r o n which was pathetic, it was the occasion of the thanks ’ fo r o f o giving at St . Paul s the recovery the King fr m the attack of insanity from which he had been suffering . Their

Majesties and the Royal Family went in state , with peers , j udges , statesmen ; and at Temple Bar the civic dignitaries mounted white palfreys , which were each decorated with three “ ” dozen favours , blue and white . There were ﬂags , guards o f honour, and lacqueys sumptuously apparelled, in the midst o f whom eight cream - col o ured h o rses drew their o f o f Maj esties in a coach , the panels and front which were ’ glass instead o f leather . By the Queen s special desire all o o the L nd n charity children assembled in the galleries , in the place they usually o ccupied at their anniversary meet in b o ne g, and the assem ly was an imposing , while the o f aspect the streets , and the whole line of Ludgate Hill , was that o f a city en fete . This was th e most remarkable pro cessio n which the Hill had seen fo r some years ; but there fo llo wed the funereal and yet superb cortege which o f to accompanied the body our great naval hero , Nelson , o o o the t mb , after the s lemn pr cession which conveyed it from Greenwich to Whitehall . The vast and brilliant assembly beneath the dome o fthe Cathedral was illuminated

n o r o o 2 0 0 . by a lanter , ctagonal frame h lding patent lamps f f o o r o o f o . The rej icings the jubilee the reign Ge rge I I I , and the continued festivities on the Visit o f the Allied Sove o f 1 8 1 reigns after the defeat Napoleon Bonaparte in 4 , may to o f be said close the l ist truly magniﬁcent Spectacles , th o ugh in the latter so many people were killed o r injured by the crowds which assembled without restraint or order

that it was a mournful anniversary fo r some families . The “ sombre but impressive Spectacle when the b ody o f the — — hero o f a hundred ﬁghts th e victor o f Waterl o o was AN D R . 1 1 8 LUDGATE H ILL : PAST P ESENT

’ w borne to St . Paul s ill not b e forgotten by those who stood

f 1 8 2 . on Ludgate Hill o n the 1 8th o November, 5

E H LL ON FEB. 2 TH 1 8 2 . LU D GAT I 7 , 7 Another memorable scene was presented by Ludgate o n 2 th r Hill o n that happy occasion when , the 7 of Feb uary ,

1 2 0 LUDGATE H I LL : PAST AN D PRESENT .

Waithman the corner of Bridge Street and Fleet Street . had the same honour as Wilkes, and his obelisk graced the

% 9 01 0 0 1 G we n r e n 0 41 c ? ﬁ

- - T I M BU C To o .

- are th e two o bridge foo t no t far from h is Shop . There st ne ’ b t Waith man s to memorials still , but they have een Shif ed , o o f Farringdon Street , while the ther stands in the mouth “ P OLD L D LL E R TH E B B D S VE ED ORTION OF ON ON WA N A AR ICAN, I CO R IN ’

ST . M S L UD G E H L . ARTIN COURT, AT I L

2 H A D E 1 4 LUD GATE ILL : PAST N PR SENT . posed o fsuch decent but Often incongruous cast -o ffgarments as were given him , would be seen daily , no matter in what “ weather, at his Shop , as he called the crossing , from o n m rni g till dark , after which he took a basket, and sold - nuts o r o ranges at the do ors o f a theatre o r concert roo m . o He lived in a c urt near Drury Lane , and had the negro o o o so qualities of g d hum ur and harmless fun, that his n a ecdotes and remarks were o ften Very amusing . It has “ been suggested that Tim - buc - to o was the o riginal study fo r o To m and err the fam us Billy Waters in f y, and of the “ ” W i h an galanty Show drama . Miss a t m was very kind to o o him , and often sent him out s up , bread , and other sav ury o o au th o meals , and at his death it was rep rted , but with ut r su m o f ity , that he had left her a large money That he made en o ugh m o n ey to retire o n in extreme o l d o fo r n o t age there is little d ubt, retire he did , but till he o l d fo r o o was very , his p rtrait at 7 3 was hung in the parl ur o f in an o o a tavern Bride L e . It is said , h wever , that he s ld his cro ssing fo r a go o d round sum though that is scarcely fo r o wh o o t likely, his success r was a soldier g drunk , and ,

o d 8s. o r 1 o s. th ugh he ma e sometimes as much as a day , ‘ M h o r . G ee spent it in the evening , Brutus Billy, used to ’ o f 8 attend Rowland Hill s chapel , and lived to the age 7 , when he died in Chapel Court . George C ru ik sk ank must have gazed with delight at the o f fo r queer figure the negro sweeper, at that time we find the success o r o fHogarth and Rowlandson visiting the famo us o and once not rious satiriser and parodist , William Hone , at o o o f o his sh p at the c rner Ship C urt , Old Bailey , or at the n o e he subseq uently t o o k on Ludgate Hill . It would be imp o ssible to rec o rd all that might be ch ronicled of the pe o ple who have been intimately associated o with Ludgate Hill , even after the time that Dr . J hnson “ in Iv o o held his club y Lane , and G ldsmith wrote Go dy T h o f wo s e s fo r . n o w Mr Newbery . It is di ficult to point o ut the exact spot o ccupied by shops and h o uses that were “ ” o fo r o f o o nce historical , the march impr vement d es “ ’ ” more than Time s effacing finger, to destroy the Old d t f . e o o landmarks There are facements , , as well as ef ace m o fi th ents , and the f otprints come to be lled in with e E H LL ROMAN RE M A I N S D I SCOV ERE D O N LU D GAT I .

1 2 8 LU DGAT E H I LL : PAST AND PR ESENT .

juries were taken during a trial , and there kept in snug

quarters under the ward of an ofﬁcer o f the Court . This o f h o use was , in its later days , kept by the father the famous o f P u nch John Leech , the artist , who was born there , and perhaps then acquired his early acquaintance with Lo ndoners

and their characteristics . It was in making some alterations at the back o f the London Coffee House that several

interesting relics o f R o man London were discovered . In ’ 1 2 o o . 7 9 , during s me alterati ns in St Martin s Court , the wo rkmen came upon the remains of a barbican t o wer o f 1 80 6 th e b ac k the o l d City wall ; and in the year , at ; of the “ was C o ﬂ ee House , a singular tower and staircase found, and three feet bel o w the pavement the trunk o f a statue o f

- Hercules , half life size , and a hexagonal altar or pedestal 2 o nearly 4 feet high and 5feet wide, bearing an inscripti n “ which was deciphered to mean : D iis Manib us Cl audia ' ' A nen l u tus P ro inc ial is o n u i Martince A nno ru m % ] . c v C j g ” — P ientissimw h oc Sepul ch ru m (o r h anc Statu am) erexit a

m o nument , in fact , to Claudina Martina, by her husband, A o f - a Roman soldier . portion a female head , life Size , 1 2 is r was also disco vered . On page 5 an engraving e

presenting these relics , and on the same page are engraved o o f f a R man tile found at the foundation the Post O fice , ’ - - l e 1 8 1 8 . St . Martin s Grand in (Fig a small brass figure 1 o f 2 — o Diana, 2 inches high , disc vered between the Deanery ’ ’ o fSt . Paul s (in Doctors Commons) and Blackfriars (Fig . o f e and a beautiful little Silver figure Harpocrates , 3% inch s o fo unda high , taken from s me depth when digging for the

ti o n o f new Lo ndon Bridge (Fig . The ring attached to

o f o . At the ﬁgure is g ld, and attached to a chain its feet o o are the ﬁgures of a dog , a t rt ise , and a bird . It came f 81 into the possession o Messrs . Rundell Bridge when it o 1 8 2 was f und , in 5, and they sent it from their shop in

Ludgate Hill to the British Museum .

C ONCLUSION . And so we come down to the time when the London o was o f Coffee H use full customers , and the Old Bell Savage - — long ago altered to La B elle Sauvage was still a ﬂo urish

. o ing inn , kept by Mr Nels n , and known as a famous COAC H LE AV I N G BE LL SAVAG E Y ARD .

E E 1 32 LU D GATE H I LL : PAST AN D PR S NT .

hours nearly vehicles, above horses , and about persons and it is certain that the number is vastly as d o greater no w, may be ju ged by the f llowing summary “ ’ from a w o rk called Ten Years Growth o f the City of ” o f London , which gives the details a day census taken on th 1 8 1 o f May 4 , 9 , by order of the Court Common Council

P ASS ENG ERS O N FOOT AN D I N V E H ICLE S ENTE RING TH E C I TY OF

L D ON MAY TH 1 8 1 . ON ON 4 , 9

m o m 16 H o r D a a. . t . . In u s ( y) , 5 9 p m 8 H o r N i . m. to a. . In u s ( ght) , 9 p 5 m in 24 H o r D a and N a. . TOTAL u s ( y ight) , 5 a m to 5 . .

MAY TH 1 8 1 S E E G H E C Y OF L D O N . V E H ICLE NT RIN T IT ON ON 4 , 9

m . m . I n 1 6 H o r D a a. o . u s ( y) , 5 t 9 p

. m . m . o a n 8 H o r Ni . t I u s ( ght) , 9 p 5

N i m T in 2 4 H o r D a and a. . OTAL u s ( y ght) , 5

o a m . t 5 .

N UM BER AND D ES CRI PTION O F VE H ICLE S ENTERING TH E C ITY F O N MAY TH 1 8 1 O L D . ON ON 4 , 9 Cabs

n ’ ’ O m ibuses ’ O th er F o ur-whee l e d Veh ic l eS Oth er two -whe el ed Ve hicl e s

To a N o o fV e i e t l . h cl s

- P V E S E E 1 881 1 8 1 . COM ARATI TAT M NT, 9

ssen ers P a g .

D A V RA F F IC IG H T RA F F I C T . N T 2 4 H O URS . 1 6 H O URS . 8 H O U RS. TH E E D E H PR SENT LU GAT ILL . 1 33

850

2 H o r 6 I 6 4 u s , 7

984

2 H o r 2 66 2 1 2 2 4 u s 4 , 3 , 597 9 , 37

o And yet Lond n may, in a measure , be called the City o o f of the W ods still , for there are yet bright patches o greenery ab ut it , and trees are to be seen within the borders o f o the Ludgate district . There has lately been an anxi us ’ correspondence lest the fine plane - tree in Stati o ners Hall o b e o to Court sh uld cut d wn , and it is a pleasure learn that no ruthless axe will lay it l o w to make ro om fo r improve t ments . Nearly fif y years ago the esteemed treasurer o f ’ “ a the Stationers Comp ny had it planted , and the tree it ” o so o o still remains , fl urishing yet fl urishing that f ur may trees planted in the corners o fthe Co urt had to be rem o ved — because th e origi nal tenant overshadowed them so flo urish ing that two years ago a cucko o was heard an d seen in — o o amidst its leafy covert the same cuck , perhaps , which has this year been heard in that other n o ble tree at the c o rner ’

f . o f o o . o W d Street , Cheapside The garden St Paul s a Churchyard is alre dy gro wing apace fresh and green , and has beco me the midday and evening res o rt fo r the denizens n o n o of the great City . Childre skip and play the very sp t ’ o o a where Paul s Cross once st od, with its dark mem ri ls , and fro m a granite fo u ntain the thirsty wayfarer may take a 1 34 LU D GAT E H I LL : PAST AN D PR E S E NT . draught o fwater as sweet as ever ran from the conduit in

Chepe . In Warwick Lane a new house o f red brick and modern mediaeval ornamentation is being built for the ’

o f . Canons St Paul s , and it may be hoped that there will be o fo r o r om an academic grove there . On the ther side , within ’ h a Dean s Court, the deanery s its trees , trailing long green is branches , and throwing cool shadows , and there to be o f to o — a d as o l d heard the cawing rooks soun , Pepys would “ sa y, mighty pleasant while even in Addle Hill , and o o f no t s me the adjacent lanes , we catch glimpses , only of window - gardening and o f climbing plants o n string and o trellis , but of veritable , go dly , tall trees , sometimes in strange and unexpected places . N o r can we do better than place this on rec o rd as o ne o f the links that sh o uld serve to connect the Past and the Present o fLudgate Hill .

E E D MOD RN LU D GATE HILL WIDENED AND I MPROV .

- d 2 th 1 86 . On September 7 , 4 , Lieut Colonel Haywoo , the o o Engineer to the C mmissioners o f Sewers , br ught up a report which stated that arrangements had been made with the London , Chatham , and Dover Railway Company; by w o hich the Commissioners could , under certain c nditions , purchase ground belonging to the Company , in order to increase the width o f Ludgate Hill to sixty feet west o f the point where the railway bridge was to cross the o thor ughfare . Col o nel Haywood submitted that this was a favourable opportunity fo r effecting a larger and m o re so f important improvement at that spot, that the tra ﬁc m which had become enor ous might be divided , and danger i 1 6 dim sh ed. h is o o 0 By plan he prop sed to f rm a circus ,

‘ a to r n feet in di meter, and erect a refuge o resti g place in the

n . ce tre , round which the trafﬁc in each direction would pass He said it was desirable that immediate act ion Should be 1 1 86 taken in the matter . On Octo ber 8th , 4, th e plan had e d o be n examined , the cost estimate , and the railway c mpany h ad o o fo r o , thr ugh their s licitor, acceded to the terms f rm ing th e eastern portio n o fthe Circus at the foot o f Ludgate

Hill . The engineer subsequently stated that , according to 1 the plan, an additional 7 feet of carriage way would be

f . obtained , which would greatly facilitate tra ﬁc The Chairman

E H LL W 1 MOD RN LUDGATE I IDENED AND I MPROV E D . 37 o f the C o mmissi o n pro posed that the reco mme ndati o n o f o o u t the c mmittee should be carried , and stated that the estimated cost w o uld be fro m to By the o riginal plan fo r the railway bridge a fo o tway was to be a constructed beside the bridge , by which p ssengers might o n o r cro ss the hill without go ing the r adway . The b idge was o n in to be reached by an enclosed staircase each side , much the same man ner as th o se which lead up to the H o lb o rn Viaduct from Farringdo n Street (the h o uses o n each side o f the ro ad o n Ludgate Hill have been se t back fo r the o o f o o purp o se) . Meanwhile the C mmittee the Metr p litan B o ard o fWo rks had decided to recommend to the B o ard to contribute half the money then required fo r further impr o ve o n o h o b o ments Ludgate Hill , the am unt Of suc c ntri uti n being estimated at This decisio n was imparted

to o . o the C urt by Mr Deputy L wman Taylor , who at a n o f o o n 2 th subsequent meeti g the C mmissioners , February 5 , ann o unced that the B o ard o f Wo rks had agreed to come t o o n o o w their assistance . This ann unceme t was f ll ed by what was practically the ﬁrst step t o wards the promised impro ve

w r . a . n o i o o ments . Mr ( S ) J Whitt ker Ellis m ving that n tice sh o uld be immediately given un der the powers o fthe Act o f to o o f Parliament take the wh le the premises at 57 and 59 , o e w o o n Ludgate Hill , and property c nn cted there ith a m ti which was sec o nded and carried. A very few plain ﬁgures o 2 8 a to sa n will Sh w that during the past years , th t is y, Si ce 1 86 l o f o o n 3, the rateab e value pr perty Ludgate Hill has

- — o . n f o b t. m re than doubled I the parish o St . Greg ry yS o n o f Paul , which is the north and south sides Ludgate ’ a Hill fr o m St . Paul s Ch urchyard to the centre o fAve M ria o f Lane and Creed Lane respectively , the gross value the pro perty in 1 863 was it is n o w I n St . ’ t o n o r o f Martin s , Ludga e , extending the n th Side the hill fro m the centre o f Av e M aria Lane to the corn er o f Bo y n o o o f n Court, and o the s uth side fr m the centre Creed La e o f o o o in 1 86 to the east corner D lphin C urt , the gr ss value 3 ’ was it is n o w In St . B ride s parish the rateable value o n Ludgate Hill in 1 863 was it is no w Thus the to tal am o unt in 1 863 was an d it now is the increase has therefo re 1 8 L D T H : A 3 U GA E ILL PAST ND PRES E NT . been These ﬁgures to some extent indicate the o f cost delay . But there was more than this . The policy which was ad o pted had the effect o f allowing new interests to t to be created, and addi ional claims be accumulated .

o f o o v . o The case G dman the C mmissioners of Sewers, o o n l 2 th 1 8 0 tried at Guildhall before the Rec rder Apri 9 , 9 , illustrated the manner in which claims fo r c o mpensatio n were developed by the meth o d o f proceeding which had o been ad pted in relati o n to improvements o n Ludgate Hill . 1 88 The complainant in that case commenced , in 5, to o n o o f o occupy premises the s uth side the hill, which sh uld long befo re have been acquired for the extensions which o 1 888 were kn wn to have been imminent . In February the C o mmissi o ners o fSewers gave n o tice that the premises

. 1 o would be wanted In May 889 Mr . G o odman btained f r compensation o the compulsory rem o val . A month after this he secured other premises o n the hill where o o f th e there was sixteen years to run of a lease . N ne interests had been acquired b y the C o mmissio ners of o m Sewers , and no such n tices had been given as ight have barred the prosecution o fa new claim by an o ccupier securing premises which were kn o wn to be o n the li n e o f o c o m dem lition . The plaintiff had received substantial e nsatio n o p in May , and removed to ther premises in

. rd a June On July 3 he ag in received notice to treat, and, no t unnaturally, pleaded that he had again a substantial interest , and had incurred considerable expenses . The case

o . was taken into C urt , and Mr Goodman was awarded n There is no need to expatiate o this case . It aptly illustrates the manner in which the co st o f necessary o ma o o impr vements ybe , and has been , en rm usly increased , o f wh o and vindicates the acti n o those , like myself, have made themselves troubles o me by persistently p o inting to the f o consequences o delay . Another ann uncement was made

. o o o o f by Mr Deputy L wman Tayl r, that the C mmittee the Metro p o litan B o ard o f Works wo uld rec o mmend the B o ard to o o supp rt the Commissi o n in carrying out impr vements , a r r o y e a d to , 55, Lud especi ll with g , acquiring the h use to o f gate Hill , which they recommended a contribution o ne- o half the cost . Mr . Deputy Tayl r represented that the

1 0 D E H : S D E 4 LU GAT ILL PA T AN PRES NT .

a Lowman Taylor ag in said , that if the works were undertaken o the Metropolitan Board of W rks would give them aid .

The matter was referred to a committee , and in a few days k six 2 was . 1 it agreed to ta e the properties referred to I n 88 , o C o x when the late Mr . J hn was chairman of the Finance o Committee , the subject was again brought f rward, and

. . a o Mr Hicks and Mr Shaw both advoc ted immediate acti n , the last named gentleman presenting a petition from the

inhabitants praying for the improvement to be completed .

th 1 88 . On October 9 , 3, Mr Deputy Cox moved that n o tice be served to take the several interests in the premises 2 2 1 ° , , 3 , , . , 7 9 and and the motion seconded , by Mr Morton “ and supported by Mr . Felton , who declared that the state ” o f n Ludgate Hill was an eyesore to every o e , was carried . f In January 1 885 Mr . Judd called the attention o the Commission o f Sewers to the continued delay in the im provement . He truly said that people occupying premises f there had suf ered for years , and that many of them had become bankrupt through the still existing dis o rder . On 2 rd o f 1 88 February 3 this year, 5, I presented a petition from the inhabitants asking that immediate steps be taken to pull down the remaining houses . The memorial b o re the 1 o signature o fo ne hundred and ten ﬁrms . m ved to c o mply

o f . with the prayer the petition , and was supported by Mr

(now Alderman) Green and Mr . Shaw ; but this was no t 1 88 carried, and the question was deferred until November 7 , when I again moved that the usual notice sh o uld be served to o f 1 acquire the leasehold 37 , 39 , 4 , 45, and 4 7 ; this w motion was seconded by Mr . C . Mathe , and supported by

. o x . . Mr Deputy C , Mr Judd , Mr Alderman Lawrence , and h 1 . 1 8t 88 Mr . Alderman Gray, and carried On June , 9 , I “ moved that it be referred to the Finance C o mmittee to c o nsider the question o f taking immediate steps fo r com ” pl etingthe improvement o fLudgate Hill ; this was seco nded

M c . o . b . a G ea h y Mr g , Mr Deputy Walter , and thers 1 88 to o In this year, 9 , a proposal was made pen up ’

. n o to f St Marti s C urt vehicular tra ﬁc , by increasing its width t - to o o twenty ﬁv e feet . If this had been agreed the m st o n valuable site Ludgate Hill, now occupied by the new

o f . premises the City Bank , would have been given up D E U D E H D E E D AN D E D 1 1 MO RN L GAT ILL WI N I MPROV . 4

o f The rental the ground is The improvement , if any, was not necessary , as the roadway , when made , would h 1 . ro t 8 1 have led only to a narrow lane On February , 9 , 1 was fortunate enough to induce the Commissio ners of o o Sewers to pass a resoluti n , which practically c mpleted the widening Of Ludgate Hill . Of course the matter was referred to o n many other occasions than those I have w o mentioned , but it ould be n thing but damnable ” iteratio n to mentio n every time that attention was called to Ludgate Hill . The t o tal length o f the thoroughfare is 8 0 5 feet , the width , which was formerly 4 7 feet, is now 60 feet , and the total net cost to the City has been about

o n I I desire to place record that, though have received most gratifying expressions of the appreciation o f my neighbours for the efforts I have been able to make in 1 r fo . this matter, do not claim any credit the result Others , I o o as have endeav ured to Show , have been quite as anxi us

o . . n as myself to c mplete this movement Mr Salmo , in his “ ’ ” b o o k o o f o f admirable , l Ten Years Gr wth the City London , “ tells us that either further impro vements in the streets o r t must be made , the City will become inadequate o the f ” I requirements o its business . quite agree with this o remark , and think a very useful further impr vement might ’ b e made by throwing Open the north side of St . Paul s to f o Churchyard vehicular tra ﬁc this , I believe , may be d ne at a triﬂing cost by rem o ving the railings and making some o Slight alteratio ns . In the year 1 868 the Metrop litan Board o f o o W rks c nsidered that this would be desirable , and negotiations with this o bject were accordingly entered i nt o b y the Commission o f Sewers with th e Dean and Chapter o f ’

. o o St Paul s . The Cathedral authorities , h wever , bjected to o n the prop sal , and therefore no action was take in the o o no t matter . Meantime , it is c ns latory to think that it did take much more than a quarter o f a century to accomplish by degrees the widening of Ludgate Hill . I N D E %

A e 1 o e e o f an 1 8 1 81 ddl Hill , 34 . C ll g Physici s , , 7 , . A e an e o e e o f r e o n 82 ddl L 9 3 . C ll Su g s , . A ral Co r e C e L n Th 6 . re a e ' dmi ty u t , , 3 ) 37 ) 43 1 9 3

e n th e a o r . C o o Th e o n a e 1 . All y , ct , 57 uck , , Ludg t Hill , 33 A fo r r o ner 1 1 an e f e a . o 6 . lms p is s , 45, 3 D c D th , 4

A e n o rn e r 6 1 an e r o ft h e re e 8 8 1 1 6 . m C , 43, 9 , 7 , 93. D g s st ts , 3, 4 , ’

An e n a e rn in . a r ar n e o ft h e o l d re e 8 ci t t v s St P ul s Chu ch D k ss st ts , 4 . ’

ard e an o r 1 . y . 93 94 D s C u t , 34 n ’ ’

A o e ar e a 8 1 . D e Ke e r o e 2 1 p th c i s H ll, ys s H t l , Mar an e e r e A v e 6 o 66 . y L . 43. 9. 93 . D by H us , a T e o r a e h . ana C a e r Th e . B llium , B il y, , 47 Di h mb , , 33 1 2 f an e an d o r e 6 68 . ana o e e e o o n th e B k s , his h s , , 7 , Di , Supp s d T mpl , ’

ar a th e a e r an d Ge o r e II I e o f . a 1 . B cl y, Qu k , g . , sit St P ul s , 5, 33 ’ o o r C o o n 1 62 6 6 9 . D ct s mm s , 3 , , 3, 4. - arn ab e Gra de D o e an e . y Rudg , phic Littl L , 9 3 ’

r o n O f e in 1 1 1 o a e rn . sc ipti City lif , . D lly s T v , 9 4

ar o o e a r ra e Sir ran 1 2 . B th l m w F i , D k , F cis , , 53, 54 ’

Ba nar a e 1 2 2 1 e n a e Sir W . 6 y d s C , n in , , 5 stl— i cid ts Dugd l o r 2 2 . r a o e 6 . its hist y , 4 9 Du h m H us , 5 “ e a a e In n 1 0 6 2 El de rne sse an e . B ll S v g , , 4 , 5 , 55, L , 44 6 68 1 1 o r n o f th e na e 6 Erk e n wal d th e axo n a n 1 8 2 7 , , 9 ; igi m , 4 ; , S s i t, , 34, 4 .

V e o f 1 o a e a n th e 1 2 Ev e rin t o n M e rs 1 2 . i w , 9 ; c ch l vi g , 9 g , ss , 7 th e e e a a e o r 1 2 xe o n at N ew ate N e r o f B ll S uv W ks, 7 . E cuti s g , umb , l a e 1 0 e a e rn O d 66 . 1 0 8 B ll T v , il y , 7 , . Be n o n n 1 2 2 8 2 r n n M r e 1 1 o 82 ar do a . J s , , 9 , 5 , 7 , . F i k t , 4 a r Th e 2 0 re G a 1 2 6 ar . e re 6 6 0 Bl ck F i s , , , 49 Fi , t t , 4, 5, 7 , 7 , 7 , 7 ,

a fr ar r e 1 1 th e n e w 80 8 8 . Bl ck i s B idg , 5 , 4, 7

r e 1 1 . z a e r o e r 2 2 . b id , 3 Fit w lt , R b t, 4, 5

a riars e a re 2 0 . e e r e 1 1 2 0 . Bl ck Th t , 9 , 3 , 57 Fl t B idg , , , 7 3, 95 o o e e r a o 8 8 0 e e 2 0 82 1 0 V e o f B ks ll s , F m us, 3, 7 , 9 , 93. Fl t Ditch , , 7 3, , 5; i w ’

o o e e r o in th e o e n e th e 1 0 6 . B ks ll s sh ps ld tim , ,

0 . e e ane 2 0 . 9 Fl t L , B r R OW 0 e r 1 0 1 1 ra n f o w e . e Ma e o o , 3 , 43, 44 Fl t k t , 5, 4 ; illust ti ,

re a n e e 1 0 8 1 0 . ck t ps , . 3 B S — — r e e l 1 1 2 0 2 1 2 1 1 0 . e e ar o n an d arr a e 1 0 0 1 0 B id w l , , , 3, 95, Fl t p s s m i g s , 5 f 1 0 e and ro e re r in th e re e ra o n o . Bulli s yst s st ts , illust ti , 3 e e r o n 1 1 6 6 1 00 1 1 0 o e Fl t P is , , —5 , 7 , , ; s m r a e th e a o r 1 2 2 . a o n o f 1 1 0 1 1 a o o n an d Bu b g , ct , , 57 , 7 cc u t , 4 ; b liti Bu r av e n n o e 0 e o o n o f 1 1 g y H us , 7 . d m liti , 4.

ano n A e . e e S re e 1 6 2 1 2 0 . C ll y, 93 Fl t t t , , 7 , e e e r o e r o f th e e o f a e e Th e e r 1 1 1 6 1 8 1 2 0 2 1 C m t y , Disc v y sit , Fl t , Riv , , , , 9 , , ;

1 8 . a n an o n o n 2 1 . its st g t c diti , - C e n ra C r n a o r 1 0 8 . o o a e n e r in th e re e D an t l imi l C u t , F t p ss g s st ts ,

C a e r C o ffe e o e Th e . e r o f 82 . h pt H us , , 93 g s ,

C a Th e 8 o r e r o e r an d th e o . ity W tch , , 4 . F st , R b t , wid w , 45

C o a e U se o f 6 ne ra e r o n a r o 2 . ch s, 57 , 7 Fu l s m , cu i us , 3 ’ ’

e r h r i n G t . a 1 1 C o t e a ithme t c ra e o r e III . s o . ck , 34 . g visit St P ul s , 5 - C o Har o r o e 6 . G o n G r n n th e o o ar e r ld b u H us , 5 ibb s, i li g , w d c v , ’ e e o fA r r l o see e a S Co l e e . 1 1 C ll g ms ( H ld g ) 9 .

1 E 44 IN D % .

e e n a e r n e r a o f 2 2 . ne S ir 62 . Qu C th i , T i l , Sid y , Philip , 53, e e n z a e o n a e S n o ar Th e o l d 8 8 1 2 Qu Eli b th Ludg t Hill , ig b ds , , 3, 4 , 3 - a o r o o o n a e 60 49 54 St lls b ths Ludg t Hill , ,

e e n e 0 1 . Qu hith , 3 , 3 . 7 4 ’ e e n e a a e rn a e rn o e r ar C a e r an d th e a fr ar Qu s H d T v , P t st St h mb Bl ck i s 8 R O W 6 . e a re . , 3 Th t , 5 ’ ’ m a o n e r C o an Th e R e ar a e in o o r C o 6 . m k bl Wills D ct s St ti s mp y , , 9 ’ — o n 6 . a o n e r a 68 1 . m s , 3 St ti s H ll , 7 ’ e o ra o n Ga o n in o n o r o f a o n e r a Co r Th e an e R st ti , yd i gs h u St ti s H—ll u t , Pl t h e re e in 1 1 . , 7 4 . t , 33 35 e o 2 2 a o n e r o a o r e r o c c u Ridl y , Bish p , . St ti s , L c lity f m ly

e r o f e Th e I 6 2 0 . e 2 . Riv W lls , , , pi d by , 3 ’

o an re an d re a n 1 1 8 2 0 r e o n a 82 1 0 . R m lics m i s , 7 , , , Su g s H ll , , 7 f 1 2 f e an 82 1 2 8 ra o n o . . ; illust ti , 5 Swi t , D , , 94 o an a Th e o l d 1 1 8 1 2 8 ar e o n th e e e r 1 2 68 R m W ll , , 7 , , . T l t , j st , , . Ro a ar ro e Th e 2 1 0 1 2 a e rn an d nn n e ar a e y l W d b , , , 3 , 3 , 3 ; T v s i s Ludg t Hill,

o e a o n o f 1 . s m cc u t , 3 . 9 4 n e r e M e r 1 2 1 2 8 a o r th e a e r o e t 8 Ru d ll B idg , ss s . , 7 , . yl , w t p , 5 , 59 .

S ac h e v e re l D r o o n a o n o f a e Th e 1 2 1 6 1 8 1 . , . , Ri ts cc u t , h m s , , , , , 33, 5 Th e at rical p e rfo rm an c e s in th e o ld e n

n re in th e ar ro e 0 1 . e 6 68 . St . A d w W d b , 3 , 3 tim , 5 , ’

. n re 2 1 0 . e e an d ro e r 8 8 a n St A d w s Hill , , 3 Thi v s bb s , 3, 4 ; h u ts ’

. ar o o e o a 6 . o f 1 0 . St B th l m w s H spit l , 44, 5 , 5 ’ - - h - . e n n e 62 6 . to o t e ro n e e e r St B t s Hill , , 5 Tim buc , c ssi g sw p , ’

S t . r e e 1 1 2 1 1 2 0 . B idg t s W ll , , . ’ 0 m n a e r h S t . C e a e a . T% es e T e . cili s F st , 7 wsp p , , 33 ’

S t . a C r 8 8 . re e in th e C 1 1 1 1 F ith s hu ch , 3 , 7 T s ity , 3 , 33, 34 . ’ ’

. Gr r a 8 re o ar o n 1 2 1 2 e o r . . St g y s Chu ch , St P ul s , 3 , T l S s , , 7

ro no an th e o l d o f 1 . 45 T y v t , city , 4 ’ — Mar n a e 1 80 . o r o e re n Th e 2 6 2 6 St . ti s , Ludg t , 7 , Tud s v ig s , , , 7 , 4 54, ’ Mar n r e a n f h e 2 . o o t . St ti s C u t , R m i s 7 l d C in 1 2 8 ra o n r e ar e U se o f 0 8 o a . y , ; y , , 5 , 7 it w ll illust ti Tu k c p ts — o f 1 2 1 . W aith man e r an 1 1 1 2 o b e , , Ald m , 9 3 ;

. M ae l e e rn e a e rno e r in o n o r o f 1 2 0 St ich l Qu , P t st lisk h u , .

R o w 0 W a n a S ir ran 62 . , 3 . lsi gh m , F cis, ’ . M ae C r e e n e ar ro e Co r 1 . St ich l s hu ch , Qu hith , W d b u t , 3

0 . a e r o r at o n o n r e . 3 W t w ks L d B idg , 7 5 ’

. a C a e ra see al so O l d . arw o e . St P ul s th d l ( St W ick H us , 44 ’ ’

a o e n o f re n ar In n . P ul s) c mpl ti o W s W wick , 44

e ﬁ e 8 o o f 0 G e o r e ar an e 1 1 . di c , 9 ; c st , 9 ; g W wick L , 44 , 7 , 34 ’ ” III S t t o 1 1 ar o Th e 66 . visi , 7 . W wick R ll , , . ’

. a C r ar a e e n e a o n o . St P ul s hu chy d : mus m ts W p sh w, 44

o r e r ra e in e e r S am 1 1 . f m ly p ctis d , 7 5 its W ll , , 34, 3

a e re e in 1 W e fr ar . sh p , 9 3 ; t s , 33 . hit i s , 7 3 ’ - S t . a C o ffe e o e W e r ar Th e 2 0 . P ul s h us , 34 . hit F i s , , ’

. a n th e o rth B o o 6 6 . e a d N rito n 1 00 St P ul s Sch l , 5 , 7 Wilk s , ; ’

. e e r C o e e 6 o e in o no r o f 1 1 St P t s ll g , 9 . b lisk h u , 5.

axo n re a n 1 8 a I I I . a . e in th e e S m i s, Wi li m , Ludg t Hill tim

S e ac o l e an e 1 0 8 0 l 8 . L , . 7

S e an C a r U se o f 82 . re n Sir r o e r 1 8 1 8 an d d h i s , , 59, W , Ch ist ph , , 3 , 9 ; ’ S e r o n an e M ar n C r 80 an m L , 93. St . ti s hu ch , ; his pl a e e are 1 2 2 6 6 fo r re n o f th e af e r th e Sh k sp , , , 5 , buildi g City t

6 2 W 2 6 . re 80 o e a o n 57 , 7 , 7 ; his ill , 9 , 3 Fi , 7 9 , his p tic l m u C o r 0 O l d a e 1 2 . e n Ship u t , B il y, 4 m t , 9 . ’ ’

o in . a r ar a e e o n 1 2 1 2 Sh ps St P ul s Chu chy d , 7 4 . Wy tt s R b lli , , 5 , 5 .

r n e az e ] a o n V n e Ld . o n o n and e r P i t d by H l , W ts , i y, , L d Ayl sbu y.