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26 Out & About Globe Monday, April 6, 2015 Bangkok’s a Paean to Royalty, Religion

A tour of the Angkor ; and the Royal Pantheon. Wahyuni Kamah historical Grand I was amazed by the intricate wood Palace complex, carvings and decorations that represent a his is the center of one of Bangkok’s rich history of ’s best artwork. Bangkok. You can get most popular Walking through a gate guarded by “ stuck [in traffic] here tourist destinations, large demon-like figures called , I during rush hour,” said is well worth the entered the Central Court — the most my Thai friend Ike while 400 baht entrance important court of the complex where pointing to Rattanakosin fee. JG Photos/ Thailand’s royal families once lived. It is IslandT — a historical part of Bangkok — Wahyuni Kamah also home to state buildings. on the map. The palace is both traditional and lux- After some consideration, I finally urious in architecture, with carvings and decided to take the Sky Train to Saphan artistic details that are just splendid. BTS station and cross the Chao Gold is a prominent color throughout Phraya River with a public ferry to reach the entire complex, adding a nuance of the Grand Palace on . royal glamor. Although the ferry was crowded, the The gate separating the Central Court route turned out to be the most efficient. and Inner Court — which is not open to As I got out at Tha Chan pier, I the public — is guarded by royal guards abruptly felt a touristic atmosphere as I dressed in black-and-white uniforms and was met with a panoply of kiosks selling a white helmet. Thai souvenirs, snacks and dresses. Tourists take turns taking photo- I followed the signs pointing to the graphs with them, but the guards seem Grand Palace, leading me to an open unfazed by the attention; they continue to space with many tempting food stalls. remain still and stone-faced. After passing the stalls I found a plaza The Central Court is made up of three crammed with people and tour buses. In distinguished groups of Throne Halls. the distance I could see a large, white The Phra Maha Monthien Prasat group is wall, behind which lay my main destina- in the east and houses some of the oldest tion. The Grand Palace complex is sur- buildings in the palace complex. rounded by a lush green lawn free of any It served as the main audience hall for cars or shops. the king. To my surprise, the complex was The Chakri Maha Prasat hall is situ- packed with visitors, most of whom came ated in the middle. This wide building has in large groups. a fabulous mix of European and Thai The former home of past Siam kings, architectural influences. The hall is still the palace is one of Bangkok’s largest used for state events. attractions. Visitors shuffled through the The Dusit Maha Prasat hall in the west front gate elbow to elbow. was being renovated during my visit. Knowing I was about to visit a sacred Again, I was astonished by its elegant and city, I had decided dress “properly” that well-designed architecture. morning, making sure my legs and upper It is now used as a lying-in-state venue arms were modestly covered. for kings, queens and favored members of Both male and female tourists wear- the royal family. ing shorts and tank tops were stopped As I stepped out of the Central Court, and asked to rent clothes at a booth near I was still mesmerized by the Chakri the entrance. dynasty and the graceful designs found The 400 baht ($12.34) admission fee throughout the palace complex. for foreigners is worth the awe-inspiring Every year on April 6, Thailand cele- tour of the Grand Palace complex, which brates Chakri Memorial Day to commem- served as a home to Thai royalty and gov- orate the establishment of the ruling ernment agencies from 1782 to 1932. and of Bangkok. The Grand Palace symbolizes the rul- And each year, the king and members ing Chakri dynasty of Thailand, which of the royal family hold a religious cere- was established on April 6, 1782, when mony at the Royal Chapel of the Temple Phra Buddha Yodfa Chulaloke, better of the . known as King , ascended to the throne. King Rama I moved the kingdom’s capital from , west of the Chao Praya River, to Krung Thep — modern- day Bangkok. After constructing fortifi- cations and monasteries, the king ordered the construction of the palace — entirely out of wood. Today, the complex is used for cere- monial purposes. The current King Bhu- mibol Adulyadej (Rama IX) resides at the Chitralada Palace in the of Bangkok. The palace complex is divided into an Bangkok’s Grand Outer Court, where visitors first enter; Palace the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, in symbolizes the the Central Court, where kings and ruling Chakri queens once resided; and an Inner Court dynasty of for female members of the royal family. Thailand, which The vast Outer Court is home to was established offices, many of which were constructed on April 6, 1782, after King Rama I’s reign. when King Rama When I entered Wat Phra Gaeo, or the I ascended to the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, I once throne again had to move slowly with the crowd. The temple is beautiful and houses a number of monuments, including the chapel of the Emerald Buddha. As the name suggests, the chapel holds a small Buddha statue carved out of green jasper. Adorned in gold, the 76-centimeter figure sits under an intricately decorated, three-tiered roof, and between two sturdy columns painted in gold. Photography is strictly prohibited. Next to the chapel is the upper terrace where four monuments are found: a reli- quary in the shape of a golden Chedi; the mondop, a repository of Buddhist sacred scripture; a miniature of ’s