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Cult Contenders ©2012 Sommelier Journal. May not be distributed without permission. www.sommelierjournal.com The emerging Napa Valley cult contenders Winemaker Martha McClellan with owners Dennis O’Neil and Steph Martin of Checkerboard Vineyards on Diamond Mountain. BEN NARASIN he term “cult wine” polarizes. Some winemakers despise the designation Chapter One as elitist—which it is—and unfairly biased toward a select group of wines, The first chapter was written in the 1990s, Tas one could certainly argue. But whether you when what some call the “first growths” of detest or embrace the phrase, many consum- American wine were identified. Releases from ers go to great lengths to invest in, acquire, and Screaming Eagle, Harlan Estate, Bryant Fam- enjoy these wines, particularly California Cab- ily Vineyard, Colgin, and a few other producers ernet Sauvignons. To meet the demand of the proved virtually impossible to obtain except at connoisseurs who collect such ultra-premium a significant premium over their retail prices; bottlings and, often, convert them into auction waiting lists for direct purchase grew and grew, Ben Narasin is a free- lance food, wine, travel, assets—not to mention the sommeliers who cel- and list prices rose accordingly. Of course, a and lifestyle writer and lar them to add cachet to restaurant wine lists— perfect score from a key critic was required an online television a growing segment of high-net-worth individu- to secure this “cult” status—Robert Parker’s commentator. He focuses als is clamoring to create them. 100-point rating of the 1992 Screaming Eagle on the sybaritic lifestyle, The history of California’s cult Cabernets Cabernet being the definitive example. unique experiences, and culinary pairings. He can be read in three chapters, the last of which Typically, about 70% of any cult-wine release also judges wine com- may be seen as an introduction to a cast of char- goes to mailing-list customers, 30% to restau- petitions. His website is acters who will be featured in the sequels to rants. The profile, as established primarily by foodlifewine.com. come. Parker, is fruit forward, “hedonistic,” and velvet byPhoto David Robinson 70 November 30, 2012 ©2012 Sommelier Journal. May not be distributed without permission. www.sommelierjournal.com Winemaker Andy Erickson with Ovid owners Janet Nelson, Mark Nelson, and Dana Johnson on Pritchard Hill (above); go-to winemaking consultant Heidi Peterson Barrett (bottom left); Kenzo Estate owner Kenzo Tsujimoto in Napa (bottom center); Revana Family Vineyard owner Madaiah Revana in St. Helena (bottom right). textured (with concomitantly high alcohol). The winemaking is the best that money can buy, although the jury is still out on whether the wines themselves will become the stuff of legend, as have some of the earthier, more austere, less alcoholic California Cabernets of the 1970s. Photos courtesy Ovid of Kenzo (top), Estate (bottom left, center), Revana Family Vineyard (bottom right) Sommelier Journal 71 ©2012 Sommelier Journal. May not be distributed without permission. www.sommelierjournal.com outstanding recent releases Brand 2009 $225 Entre Nous 2009 $155 Dark garnet with a matte sheen, Brand’s current release Bright as a ripe pomegranate seed in color, Entre Nous shows a restrained nose with hints of dark plum. It’s has a Bordeaux-style nose marked by a range of dusty red much more expressive in the mouth, with a pleasant fruits such as cherry and wild plum. In the mouth, a burst chocolatey entry followed by a burst of red fruits, ripe of ripe cherry mixes with slightly underripe pomegranate pomegranate, tamarind, and baking spice, plus a sprinkle and suggestions of dry spice, as well as a touch of mocha of peppery spice toward the fi nish. As in many of these and a vegetal quality. Dry yet silky tannins come through wines, the heat from the alcohol is noticeable if not quite immediately, but dark red fruit lingers on a pleasant, last- unbalanced. ing fi nish with only mild heat. Checkerboard 2008 $175 Ovid 2009 $195 Dark garnet, almost prune colored. The reserved nose Dark as wild-plum skin. Bright cherry and plum aromas reveals notes of cocoa powder and black cherry; the palate are followed by a note of vanilla. The soft, luscious palate is is not so modest, opening assertively with dark-chocolate well developed, sophisticated, and nicely layered with red and cherry-pudding fl avors. A creamy texture is balanced fruits, vanilla, crème brûlée, and the tiniest pinch of spice; by a touch of tart pomegranate, slightly bitter cacao, and a peppery warmth builds through the fi nish. This smooth, chocolate-pudding skin. There’s a maturity to this wine contemplative wine is already fully realized, though it may that augurs well for long-term aging. evolve even further with time. Dana Lotus 2009 $325 Tusk 2008 $370 My top pick from this group is also the darkest in the A bright plum-skin color fades to garnet at the rim. The glass, showing as polished black garnet. It’s rich and creamy nose evinces cherry crème brûlée dusted with bak- brothy on the nose, with a hint of tomato as well as bright, ing spice, accompanied by aromas of plum, mocha, and fully ripe red cherry and juicy wild plum. A smooth entry, dark chocolate and a note of star anise. The rich, lush palate rich with mocha fl avor, is immediately followed by drying comprises fl avors of dark chocolate, roasted cacao, plum, tannins and notes of dark chocolate, red cherry sprinkled slightly underripe dried cherry, roasted mocha, espresso with cacao dust, and tamarind; the fi nish features spice, bean, pomegranate seeds and pith, and a subtle, gradually crème brûlée, and a haunting glimpse of tropical fruit. emerging note of Maduro cigar leaf. Alcohol makes its pres- Built to age and develop, this wine is enjoyable now. ence felt through the fi nish. Luxuriance with an edge—a thick velvet robe wrapped around oxidized iron. Dana Estates representative Jae Chun and founder Hi Sang Lee (right) and salon (far right) in Rutherford. courtesyPhoto of Dana Estates (left); photo by Erhard Pfeiffer (right) 72 November 30, 2012 ©2012 Sommelier Journal. May not be distributed without permission. www.sommelierjournal.com Napa valley Cult ConteNders their predecessors: fruit forward, even jammy, Checkerboard Vineyards’ and high in alcohol. Aurora Vineyard (below Chapter Two left), winemaker Martha McClellan (below right), The success of these early cult wines in- and winery (middle right); spired a second wave of producers whose bot- Chapter Three Brand’s Pritchard Hill tlings were being added to collectors’ wish lists vineyard (bottom left). by the early 2000s. Founded in 1994 by Man- In summary, these cult pioneers not only fred Krankl, down south in Ventura County, secured renown for themselves, but also es- Sine Qua Non came into fame with its Rhône- tablished a formula by which aspiring vint- varietal collectibles. Sloan Estate (established ners could create wines of a similar caliber. by Seattle businessman Stuart Sloan in Ruther- Resource-rich entrepreneurs traveled diverse ford) and Hundred Acre (founded by Canadian paths to California from as far away as Korea, investment banker Jayson Woodbridge east of India, Japan, and Portugal on their quest for the St. Helena) both achieved cult status after their vinous grail. They include the inevitable wealth 2000 debut vintages were widely acclaimed. managers and bankers, like Futo’s Tom Futo Their wines maintained the style developed by and Checkerboard Vineyards’ Dennis O’Neil, as well as doctors (Reva- na Family Vineyard’s Madaiah Revana and Photos by David Peterson (top left, top right, middle right); photo courtesy Brand of (bottom left) Sommelier Journal 73 ©2012 Sommelier Journal. May not be distributed without permission. www.sommelierjournal.com need to carve out a cave in which your new bar- riques can be stored in neat rows no more than one barrel high. You need a well-known architect to design a winery as spacious and luxurious as Entre Nous owner Kris- your mansion. You will probably want to hire a tine Ashe (above) and viticulture expert who has already achieved cult- organic estate vineyards in Entre Nous’s Kristine Ashe) and exporters of wine fame to assess your property’s ability to Oakville (top right). California wine (Dana Estates’ Jae Chun and produce exceptional grapes and, in many cases, Tusk Estates’ Michael Uytengsu). But despite to develop or replant the vineyard. David Abreu their different professions and nationalities, the and Jim Barbour, for example, are in such high owners of Napa’s up-and-coming cult wineries demand as viticulturists and vineyard manag- are united by their desire to make transcendent ers that they occasionally warrant mention on wines. For all the polish of their facilities—most back labels (see Kenzo Estate and Entre Nous, Kenzo Estate vineyard- of which are open only to private customers— respectively). management consultant the new cult owners tend to be far more humble, Unless you have a winemaking background, David Abreu (below), tasting room (bottom left), or at least amiable, than one might expect. They which is rare among this class, you will need to and winery (bottom right). share an almost reverent fascination for the wine bring in a consultant. Heidi Peterson Barrett, they seek to produce; arrogance is the exception who made her name at Screaming Eagle, was rather than the norm. long the most sought-after authority and re- To be a cult-wine contender, you need to mains influential today. Revana, who not only start with a staggeringly beautiful estate, prefer- hired her for his launch but built her a facility to ably secluded and tied to some ancient plot in the make her own wines (called La Sirena), recently Napa Valley foothills.
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