Cult Contenders

The emerging Napa Valley cult contenders

Winemaker Martha McClellan with owners Dennis O’Neil and Steph Martin of Checkerboard Vineyards on Diamond Mountain. Ben Narasin

he term “cult wine” polarizes. Some winemakers despise the designation Chapter One as elitist—which it is—and unfairly biased toward a select group of wines, The first chapter was written in the 1990s, Tas one could certainly argue. But whether you when what some call the “first growths” of detest or embrace the phrase, many consum- American wine were identified. Releases from ers go to great lengths to invest in, acquire, and Screaming Eagle, Harlan Estate, Bryant Fam- enjoy these wines, particularly California Cab- ily Vineyard, Colgin, and a few other producers ernet Sauvignons. To meet the demand of the proved virtually impossible to obtain except at connoisseurs who collect such ultra-premium a significant premium over their retail prices; bottlings and, often, convert them into auction waiting lists for direct purchase grew and grew, Ben Narasin is a free- lance food, wine, travel, assets—not to mention the sommeliers who cel- and list prices rose accordingly. Of course, a and lifestyle writer and lar them to add cachet to restaurant wine lists— perfect score from a key critic was required an online television a growing segment of high-net-worth individu- to secure this “cult” status—Robert Parker’s commentator. He focuses als is clamoring to create them. 100-point rating of the 1992 Screaming Eagle on the sybaritic lifestyle, The history of California’s cult Cabernets Cabernet being the definitive example. unique experiences, and culinary pairings. He can be read in three chapters, the last of which Typically, about 70% of any cult-wine release also judges wine com- may be seen as an introduction to a cast of char- goes to mailing-list customers, 30% to restau- petitions. His website is acters who will be featured in the sequels to rants. The profile, as established primarily by foodlifewine.com. come. Parker, is fruit forward, “hedonistic,” and velvet byPhoto David Robinson

Winemaker Andy Erickson with Ovid owners Janet Nelson, Mark Nelson, and Dana Johnson on Pritchard Hill (above); go-to winemaking consultant Heidi Peterson Barrett (bottom left); Kenzo Estate owner Kenzo Tsujimoto in Napa (bottom center); Revana Family Vineyard owner Madaiah Revana in St. Helena (bottom right). textured (with concomitantly high alcohol). The winemaking is the best that money can buy, although the jury is still out on whether the wines themselves will become the stuff of legend, as have some of the earthier, more austere, less alcoholic California Cabernets of the 1970s. Photos courtesy Ovid of Kenzo (top), Estate (bottom left, center), Revana Family Vineyard (bottom right)

outstanding recent releases Brand 2009 $225 Entre Nous 2009 $155 Dark garnet with a matte sheen, Brand’s current release Bright as a ripe pomegranate seed in color, Entre Nous shows a restrained nose with hints of dark plum. It’s has a Bordeaux-style nose marked by a range of dusty red much more expressive in the mouth, with a pleasant fruits such as cherry and wild plum. In the mouth, a burst chocolatey entry followed by a burst of red fruits, ripe of ripe cherry mixes with slightly underripe pomegranate pomegranate, tamarind, and baking spice, plus a sprinkle and suggestions of dry spice, as well as a touch of mocha of peppery spice toward the fi nish. As in many of these and a vegetal quality. Dry yet silky tannins come through wines, the heat from the alcohol is noticeable if not quite immediately, but dark red fruit lingers on a pleasant, last- unbalanced. ing fi nish with only mild heat. Checkerboard 2008 $175 Ovid 2009 $195 Dark garnet, almost prune colored. The reserved nose Dark as wild-plum skin. Bright cherry and plum aromas reveals notes of cocoa powder and black cherry; the palate are followed by a note of vanilla. The soft, luscious palate is is not so modest, opening assertively with dark-chocolate well developed, sophisticated, and nicely layered with red and cherry-pudding fl avors. A creamy texture is balanced fruits, vanilla, crème brûlée, and the tiniest pinch of spice; by a touch of tart pomegranate, slightly bitter cacao, and a peppery warmth builds through the fi nish. This smooth, chocolate-pudding skin. There’s a maturity to this wine contemplative wine is already fully realized, though it may that augurs well for long-term aging. evolve even further with time. Dana Lotus 2009 $325 Tusk 2008 $370 My top pick from this group is also the darkest in the A bright plum-skin color fades to garnet at the rim. The glass, showing as polished black garnet. It’s rich and creamy nose evinces cherry crème brûlée dusted with bak- brothy on the nose, with a hint of tomato as well as bright, ing spice, accompanied by aromas of plum, mocha, and fully ripe red cherry and juicy wild plum. A smooth entry, dark chocolate and a note of star anise. The rich, lush palate rich with mocha fl avor, is immediately followed by drying comprises fl avors of dark chocolate, roasted cacao, plum, tannins and notes of dark chocolate, red cherry sprinkled slightly underripe dried cherry, roasted mocha, espresso with cacao dust, and tamarind; the fi nish features spice, bean, pomegranate seeds and pith, and a subtle, gradually crème brûlée, and a haunting glimpse of tropical fruit. emerging note of Maduro cigar leaf. Alcohol makes its pres- Built to age and develop, this wine is enjoyable now. ence felt through the fi nish. Luxuriance with an edge—a thick velvet robe wrapped around oxidized iron.

Dana Estates representative Jae Chun and founder Hi Sang Lee (right) and salon

(far right) in Rutherford. courtesyPhoto Dana of Estates (left); photo by Erhard Pfeiffer (right)

Napa Valley Cult Contenders their predecessors: fruit forward, even jammy, Checkerboard Vineyards’ and high in alcohol. Aurora Vineyard (below Chapter Two left), winemaker Martha McClellan (below right), The success of these early cult wines in- and winery (middle right); spired a second wave of producers whose bot- Chapter Three Brand’s Pritchard Hill tlings were being added to collectors’ wish lists vineyard (bottom left). by the early 2000s. Founded in 1994 by Man- In summary, these cult pioneers not only fred Krankl, down south in Ventura County, secured renown for themselves, but also es- Sine Qua Non came into fame with its Rhône- tablished a formula by which aspiring vint- varietal collectibles. Sloan Estate (established ners could create wines of a similar caliber. by Seattle businessman Stuart Sloan in Ruther- Resource-rich entrepreneurs traveled diverse ford) and Hundred Acre (founded by Canadian paths to California from as far away as Korea, investment banker Jayson Woodbridge east of India, Japan, and Portugal on their quest for the St. Helena) both achieved cult status after their vinous grail. They include the inevitable wealth 2000 debut vintages were widely acclaimed. managers and bankers, like Futo’s Tom Futo Their wines maintained the style developed by and Checkerboard Vineyards’ Dennis O’Neil, as well as doctors (Reva- na Family Vineyard’s Madaiah Revana and Photos by David Peterson (top left, top right, middle right); photo courtesy Brand of (bottom left)

need to carve out a cave in which your new bar- riques can be stored in neat rows no more than one barrel high. You need a well-known architect to design a winery as spacious and luxurious as Entre Nous owner Kris- your mansion. You will probably want to hire a tine Ashe (above) and viticulture expert who has already achieved cult- organic estate vineyards in Entre Nous’s Kristine Ashe) and exporters of wine fame to assess your property’s ability to Oakville (top right). California wine (Dana Estates’ Jae Chun and produce exceptional grapes and, in many cases, Tusk Estates’ Michael Uytengsu). But despite to develop or replant the vineyard. David Abreu their different professions and nationalities, the and Jim Barbour, for example, are in such high owners of Napa’s up-and-coming cult wineries demand as viticulturists and vineyard manag- are united by their desire to make transcendent ers that they occasionally warrant mention on wines. For all the polish of their facilities—most back labels (see Kenzo Estate and Entre Nous, Kenzo Estate vineyard- of which are open only to private customers— respectively). management consultant the new cult owners tend to be far more humble, Unless you have a winemaking background, David Abreu (below), tasting room (bottom left), or at least amiable, than one might expect. They which is rare among this class, you will need to and winery (bottom right). share an almost reverent fascination for the wine bring in a consultant. Heidi Peterson Barrett, they seek to produce; arrogance is the exception who made her name at Screaming Eagle, was rather than the norm. long the most sought-after authority and re- To be a cult-wine contender, you need to mains influential today. Revana, who not only start with a staggeringly beautiful estate, prefer- hired her for his launch but built her a facility to ably secluded and tied to some ancient plot in the make her own wines (called La Sirena), recently Napa Valley foothills. The scarcity of adequate disclosed that he has hired Thomas Brown to vineyard acreage and the difficulty of obtaining consult as of the 2011 vintage. Meanwhile, with necessary permits may push you into relatively her husband Bo (of Chateau Montelena), Barrett uncharted territory, such as Pritchard Hill. You has founded Barrett & Barrett; the current vin- Photos courtesy Entre of Nous Kenzo (top), Estate (middle, bottom)

Napa Valley Cult Contenders

shelf winemakers: producing their own wines at a fraction of the cost of the premium labels for which they consult. Bordeaux-trained winemaker Philippe Mel- Michael Uytengsu, ka is clearly in the ascendancy. While he works Philippe Melka, and Tim Martin of Tusk Estates in tage, 2008, is openly available on their website on a significant number of projects—12 were Oakville. for $250—a democratic gesture somehow for- represented at this year’s Atelier Melka Portfolio eign to the concept of cult wine. Barrett’s even Tasting—and has a joint venture in the newly more widely available, lower-priced La Sirena launched Tusk, he continues to evolve his style wines continue to deliver impressive results, and has even started his own eponymous label. representing another counter-trend among top- One of his clients, Dana, would be my pick for top cult contenders Brand Diamond Mountain. Sauvignon Blanc and a ovidvineyards.com will be released in the 90 Long Ranch Road First vintage: 2006 serious rosé as well as a Launched by software spring of 2013. Consulting winemaker: Cabernet Sauvignon. entrepreneurs Dana First vintage: 2002 St. Helena, CA 94574 Martha McClellan First vintage: 2007 Johnson and Mark Consulting winemaker: (707) 963-1199 Current price: $175 Consulting winemaker: Nelson, Ovid makes a Heidi Peterson Bar- brandnapavalley.com Philippe Melka top-of-the-line Cabernet rett through the 2010 For his newest clients, Dana Estates Current price: $155 (Cab- from Pritchard Hill and vintage; Thomas Brown Brand owners Ed Fitts P.O. Box 153 ernet Sauvignon) an annually released but as of 2011 and Deb Whitman, Rutherford, CA 94573 ever-changing single- Current price: $150 Kenzo Estate Philippe Melka uses (707) 963-4365 varietal wine known as Pritchard Hill fruit to 3200 Monticello Road Experiment. Tusk Estates danaestates.com make a single Cabernet Napa, CA 94558 First vintage: 2005 P.O. Box 126 Sauvignon. Owned by Jae Chun, Consulting winemaker: founder of Nara Food— (707) 254-7572 Oakville, CA 94562 First vintage: 2009 Andy Erickson (707) 944-8355 Consulting winemaker: the third-largest food- www.kenzoestate.com Current price: $195 Philippe Melka importing company in Kenzo Tsujimoto— www.tuskestates.com Current price: $225 Korea—Dana produces founder of gaming Revana Family This collaboration three single-vineyard company Capcom, Vineyard among food entrepre- Cabernets from the best known for Street neur Michael Uytengsu, Checkerboard 2930 St. Helena Highway N. Vineyards western slopes of the Fighter—produces six marketing maven Rutherford Bench. different wines with St. Helena, CA 94574 Timothy Martin, and 4331 Azalea Springs Way First vintage: 2005 a significant focus on (707) 967-8814 winemaker Philippe Calistoga, CA 94515 Consulting winemaker: exports to his home www.revanawine.com Melka produces just one (707) 942-4112 Philippe Melka market of Japan. Owner Madaiah Revana wine that’s sold only www.checkerboardvineyards. Current price: $325 First vintage: 2006 offers a single Cabernet in three-packs, one per Winemaker: Heidi Peter- bottling from St. Helena, customer. It’s made at com Entre Nous Banking entrepreneur son Barrett but he’s expanding into Dana Estates with grapes Dennis O’Neil’s winery 7668 St. Helena Highway Current price: $80-250 other regions with Ore- from seven vineyards Oakville, CA 94558 gon’s Alexana Winery scattered across five also produces a more- Ovid approachable second (707) 982-8000 and a project in the Napa subappellations. label, Kings Row, from 255 Long Ranch Road Uco Valley of Mendoza, First vintage: 2008 www.entrenouswines.com Winemaker: Philippe its 300-acre estate on the Kristine Ashe’s Oakville St. Helena, CA 94574 Argentina—Corazón del southeastern slopes of (707) 963-3850 Sol—whose first wines Melka brand turns out a Current price: $370 Photos by Mark Wiegard/Gauge Branding

Andy Erickson, who replaced Bar- rett at Screaming Eagle after the brand was acquired by Stan Kroenke in 2006, is a more recent entrant in the field of star consultants. At Ovid, his use of concrete in combination with new oak barrels provides a clean, fresh take on the expected lush profile of the cult-wine contender. Martha McClellan is another rising star. Her work at Harlan and then at Sloan secured her reputation; her current project, Checkerboard Vine- yards, is yielding results that continue to trend in the right direction. Since 2004, with husband Bob Levy (also of Harlan fame), she has produced Levy & McClellan Cabernet Sauvignon, a cult-wine can- didate in its own right. Epilogue Ironically, the success of these consulting winemakers has spawned a generation of young and talented assistant winemakers who now handle much of the day-to-day work for their potential competitors. For instance, Dana di- rector of production Cameron Vawter’s résumé shows his passion for premium wines: a degree in viticulture and enology from the University of California-Davis; internships at William Hill Winery, Spring Mountain Vineyards, and Do- maine Carneros; travels through Burgundy and the Rhône Valley; a stint at Valdivieso in Chile the new winery most likely to attain cult status; and another as assistant winemaker of Dia- its offerings perform exceptionally well in blind mond Oaks in Napa. Revana general manager tastings, such as the recent Napa Valley Reserve and managing winemaker Tom Garrett and tasting in which the 2008 Dana Cabernet Sau- Ovid winemaker Austin Peterson have similarly vignon Lotus won out against a number of cult promising backgrounds. pioneers. (For more on Dana Estates, see “Win- These Renaissance men (and women) sym- ery Spotlight” in the Jan. 15, 2012, issue.) And bolize the meritocracy of the American wine in- Melka’s efforts for Entre Nous ($155) and Brand dustry. The future stars of the Napa Valley cult Vine rows (top) and tank room (above) at Revana ($225) deliver some of the best results for the saga are already playing supporting roles in the

Family Vineyard. price in this illustrious company. current story. Photos courtesy Revana of Family Vineyard

76 November 30, 2012