Grapegrowers in North America Spanish Varieties Are Also Included
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Markus Bokisch Bokisch Ranches of Syrah. Before long, he was planting vineyards for his neighbors, too, and the Bokisch Ranches 20 vineyard management company was born. Today, he farms 2,500 acres of vineyards in Amador, San Joaquin, Sacramento and Solano counties, including 100 acres certified organic, 200 transitioning to certified organic and 1,500 certified green under the Lodi Rules for Sustain- able Winegrowing program. Traditional varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon make up most of the Most Admired acreage, but smaller parcels of Bokisch’s beloved Grapegrowers in North America Spanish varieties are also included. The Spanish grapes go into his own 5,000-case brand, Bokisch Vineyards, which focuses exclusively on Iberian- style wines. Bokisch could easily sell all of his grapes to behemoth producers such as E. & J. Gallo. But sk any winemaker how great wines Once the nominations arrived, we because he wants to elevate Lodi’s reputation as are produced, and you’re likely to reduced the field of contenders to 37 a wine region, he reserves 20% of his fruit for receive this answer: They’re made in finalists, based on the number of nomi- smaller operations such as Mark Herold Wines, the vineyard. Yet how many wine lovers nations each person received. Names of Photo: Sam Harnack Turley Wine Cellars, Chateau Montelena, Neyers – consumers or otherwise – know the the finalists were then submitted to the Winery, Odisea Wine Co., Forlorn Hope Wines, names of the hardworking, dedicated committee for a vote. (Members could Markus Bokisch is a man who likes to think big. the Scholium Project, and others. farmers who plant and tend the vines that vote for as many people as they liked.) While many view Lodi as a region best suit- Despite the size of his operation, Bokisch has produce the grapes for those celebrated The 20 farmers who made the list ed to growing high-production grapes for low- earned a reputation for high-quality farming and wines? Not many. Grapegrowers tend to represent a wide range of regions, priced table wines, he has a broader vision – one his ability to customize practices to fit the proto- stand in the background while winemak- grape varieties and backgrounds. Some in which Lodi is also known as a producer of pre- cols of each client. ers are encouraged to take center stage. own vast vineyard acreage and sell all mium wine grapes for boutique wineries. “Markus has been a great resource and sup- This year, we hope to remedy that by their fruit to winery clients; some are Bokisch studied viticulture at UC Davis, and port to me as I took on managing my own vine- recognizing the wine industry’s unsung in-house vineyard managers who work in 1989, he became a viticulturist for Joseph yard in 2013,” said Matthew Rorick of Forlorn heroes: grapegrowers, viticulturists and for a single winery; others run vineyard Phelps Vineyards in the Napa Valley. While Hope and Matthew Rorick Wines. “Already a sea- vineyard managers. management companies while produc- sourcing grapes for Phelps’ Rhône-focused Le soned grapegrower, he is ever desirous of deep- To compile our list of “The 20 Most ing their own wines. The one thing they Mistral program, Bokisch discovered the Lodi ening his viticultural knowledge. His willingness Admired Grapegrowers,” we assembled all have in common is that they inspire appellation. to connect growers and winemakers of all stripes a nominating committee of respected the respect and admiration of their peers After three years at Phelps, he moved to strengthens the viticultural community and fos- winemakers, grapegrowers, wine writ- and others in the industry, not only for Spain and worked in the vineyards of Catalonia. ters more grower dialogue and exchange of infor- ers, educators, buyers, sommeliers and the quality of their work but for their There he fell in love with Albariño and Graciano. mation, benefitting all.” consultants across North America. The leadership and integrity. When he returned to California, intent on Virginie Boone of Wine Enthusiast magazine committee had two rules to follow: 1) We are proud to present, in alphabeti- planting a new vineyard, his search for volcanic added, "What I love about Markus is that after nominees must be living; 2) they must cal order, the most admired grapegrow- soils and reasonable land prices led him back to traveling the world and working in the Napa Val- be based in North America. ers in North America. Lodi. In 1995, he purchased a property in what is ley, he specifically chose Lodi, a place where he now the Clements Hills AVA and planted 17 acres could do something different.” 40 VINEYARD & WINERY MANAGEMENT | Nov - Dec 2015 www.vwmmedia.com www.vwmmedia.com Nov - Dec 2015 | VINEYARD & WINERY MANAGEMENT 41 Dick Boushey Joe & Steve Dutton Boushey Vineyard Dutton Ranch now manages vineyards in the notable Red Moun- owned or leased by Dutton Ranch, and another tain AVA. He owns a total of 160 vineyard acres, 240 are managed. The family’s domain includes 85% of which are devoted to red varieties. 74 different vineyard sites, all under 100 acres in Beyond Syrah, Boushey is known for grow- size, with some even smaller than an acre. The ing outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, vast majority of the acreage lies in Russian River Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese, Rous- Valley, with a little over 50 acres in neighboring sanne, Grenache and more. He also appreciates Green Valley. The Duttons also manage a couple fine wine, and that’s important when you’re hundred acres of organic apple orchards. deciding which winemakers deserve your highly Steve’s younger brother, Joe, also plays a key allocated grapes. role in the family enterprise, managing many As with many noted Washington growers, aspects of the business from equipment and Boushey sells his grapes to dozens of wineries. personnel to delivery logistics. Each brother also Among them are the hallowed names of Betz Fam- has an interest in a winery. Joe and Tracy Dutton ily Winery, DeLille Cellars, McCrea Cellars, Châ- founded Dutton Estate in 1994, while Steve and teau Ste. Michelle and Long Shadows Vintners. his wife Theresa founded Dutton-Goldfield Win- An industry leader, he has served on the ery in 1998, in partnership with winemaker Dan Washington State Wine Commission board and Goldfield. Both wineries produce world-class the Wine Advisory Committee, which oversees Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Syrah. grape and wine research programs. In 2007, he Steve and Joe Dutton have played impor- was named Grower of the Year by Wine & Spirits tant leadership roles in Russian River Valley and magazine. Joe and Steve Dutton. Photo: Hawkes Photography Sonoma County, representing other winegrowers Dick Boushey’s estate is comprised of five Boushey deserves a reputation not just as a and the long-term interests of those regions. non-contiguous vineyards planted in the Yakima trailblazer, but also as grower with a keen eye for The Dutton family's farming heritage goes Dutton Ranch prides itself on native under- Valley AVA. With his first vineyard planted in quality sites and the expertise to extract the best back to 1881, when Warren Dutton purchased standing of the land it farms, appreciation of and 1980, Boushey is one of the pioneering grow- possible results from each one. He is not a well- 200 acres in Santa Rosa, Calif. In 2001, another respect for its employees – many of whom have ers of Washington state and, for that matter, heeled speculator, but more of a co-conspirator Warren (the great-grandnephew of the farm’s worked for the family for decades – and a strong the Pacific Northwest. At the time of his first who has shared a vision with many of the state’s founder) passed away and left his wife, Gail, and commitment to sustainable farming and reinvest- planting, Yakima Valley wasn’t even recognized up-and-coming winemakers, and supported them sons, Steve and Joe Dutton to carry on the fam- ment in the local community. as an AVA. But his grapes soon earned a reputa- along the way. ily business. What sets the Dutton brothers apart from tion not just for quality, but for a distinct regional Washington’s wine industry is still a work in Steve was born in 1967, the same year his other Sonoma growers, according to Patz & Hall character. progress; but if it were frozen today, Boushey father planted the family’s first Chardonnay vine- co-owner Anne Moses, is “their encyclopedic Boushey was one of the first to plant Syrah would rightly be considered a hero of Rushmore yard in western Russian River Valley. By age 5, knowledge of Russian River Valley. They know and other Rhône varieties in Washington. From proportion. he was already helping his dad at the ranch and all the vineyards, whether they farm them or the start, he sought out leaner hillside soils “Between Boushey Vineyard and a dozen dif- had developed an early fascination with farm not. They’ve been very accommodating to us.” to counter Syrah’s inherent vigor. The result- ferent Red Mountain vineyards, including Col equipment. By the time the brothers were in Moses has worked with the Duttons since 1997, ing fruit spoke volumes of Syrah’s potential in Solare, Dick Boushey grows some of the best high school, they were helping oversee the fam- when they provided the winery with a small Washington. Much of that early Syrah went grapes in Washington, both Rhône and Bordeaux ily's expanding vineyards and orchards. amount of Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. “They’ve into wines made by Doug McCrea of McCrea varieties,” said Andy Perdue, founder of Great Today, Dutton Ranch farms 1,100 acres of pre- helped us to get more fruit from sites we work Cellars, and those Syrahs raised plenty of eye- Northwest Wine.