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Fashion. Beauty. Business. Business. Beauty. Fashion.

No. 1 No.

2015 2015 SEP SEP

PURE PLAY “Business affords creative, but creative creates businesses.” PHILLIP LIM

Edward Nardoza EDITOR IN CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon EDITOR Robb Rice GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR

John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015

MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS EUROPEAN EDITOR Miles Socha DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR Donna Heiderstadt SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE SENIOR EDITORS, FINANCIAL Arnold J. Karr, Vicki M. Young ASSOCIATE EDITOR Lorna Koski BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis Phillip Lim in his SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Bobbi Queen Hudson Street ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine studio. SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET Julie Naughton BEAUTY EDITOR SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale SENIOR ACCESSORIES EDITOR Roxanne Robinson SENIOR MARKET EDITOR Mayte Allende EYE EDITORS Taylor Harris, Erik Maza MEN’S SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. Palmieri FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia MEN’S MARKET EDITOR Luis Campuzano MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes MARKET EDITORS FINANCIAL NEWS AND ANALYSIS Debra Borchardt ACCESSORIES Lauren McCarthy, Misty White Sidell BEAUTY Molly Prior DIGITAL Rachel Strugatz READY-TO-WEAR, Bobbi Queen FURS & INNERWEAR FASHION READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced SPORTSWEAR FASHION EYE Ally Betker, Leigh Nordstrom The Features CORRESPONDENTS LONDON Nina Jones LONDON, EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lorelei Marfil LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran, Kari Hamanaka MILAN, FASHION AND NEWS Alessandra Turra 3.1 + 10 = Au Naturale NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS William Cotto, Tara Bonet-Black, 54 The naturals category in Kelsi Zimmerman Winning Equation Ellen Thomas beauty is booming, as a new NEW YORK, FASHION ASSISTANTS Andrew Shang, Ashley Davis, 48 With a blend of cautious Kayana Cordwell generation of brands deliver PARIS, EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil creativity and calculated cool, PARIS, SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Laurent Folcher on the promise of combining PARIS, SENIOR BUSINESS NEWS EDITOR Joelle Diderich partners Phillip Lim and Wen PARIS, GENERAL ASSIGNMENT Paulina Szmydke efficacy, luxury and good-for- REPORTER, NEWS Zhou have built a brand that’s PARIS, EDITORIAL AND WEB ASSISTANT Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant you ingredients. WEB EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault at the forefront of advanced SAN FRANCISCO, TECHNOLOGY Maghan McDowell contemporary fashion. DESIGN DEPARTMENT CREATIVE DIRECTOR Nick Mrozowski ART DIRECTOR Geraldson Chua SENIOR DESIGNER Christa Guerra DESIGNER Robyn Boehler DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTO DIRECTOR Ash Barhamand PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Katrina Brown PHOTO STUDIO PHOTO STUDIO MANAGER Eileen Tsuji PHOTO STUDIO ASSISTANT Emily Taylor PHOTOGRAPHERS George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Thomas Iannaccone COPYDESK COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, David Podgurski, Maxine Wally PREPRESS PRODUCTION DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin WWD.COM SITE DIRECTOR Michelle Preli ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Kristen Tauer DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER Ryan Richmond WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Pooja Bhaskar PUBLIC RELATIONS PR COORDINATOR Christina Mastroianni

Photograph by MARK MANN Contents

Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER

ADVERTISING ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen LUXURY DIRECTOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Amy Keiser Shannon Fitzgerald SENIOR CLIENT SERVICES MANAGER Joanna Block CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Tina Schissel REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-965-7283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri +39-02-722-33602 ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33-1-44-51-07-611 EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 Swimwear from Ralph Lauren Purple Label ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles Swimming is optional with the latest wave of CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Suzette Minetti indie swim brands, which are injecting the AUDIENCE MARKETING VP & SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Ellen Dealy market with energetic graphics and colors. CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker , page 38 & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR John Cross SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal INSTITUTIONAL SALES SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch PRODUCTION PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley Agenda PRODUCTION MANAGER Providence Rao SUMMITS & EVENTS VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger Fashion 12 Accessories 34 EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher Givenchy shakes things up . . . Key trends and hot sellers for back- DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle New happenings and events for to-school . . . Accessories Briefs DIRECTOR OF Amelia Ewert New York Fashion Week . . . EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING Fashion Briefs FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC Stephanie George PRESIDENT AND VICE CHAIRMAN Beauty 20 Retail 36 EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR Diptyque is expanding from a Plenty of players are ready to OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT candle concern into a full-fledged resuscitate beat-up retail names FINANCE DIRECTOR Devon Beemer lifestyle company . . . Smell Test . . . Retail Briefs DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson . . . Sofia Vergara’s latest fragrance . . . Beauty Briefs WWD AND FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC ARE DIVISIONS OF PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION Jay Penske Markets 26 38 CHAIRMAN & CEO Made in America finds a retail A few independent swim labels are VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne path . . . Previews of Milano Unica, stirring up the surf with fashion EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar Texworld and Première Vision customers . . . Gant embarks on a STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, Paul Woolnough trade shows . . . Market Briefs major rebranding campaign in the BUSINESS AFFAIRS States . . . M Briefs SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene SVP HUMAN RESOURCES DEPARTMENTS VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West 10 Social Studies 62 They Are Wearing VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen The best and worst in social media, what’s Stockholm’s best-dressed residents have a distinct DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion trending, whom to follow. style that’s both edgy and understandable. DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS Joni Antonacci CONTROLLER Young Ko SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGERS Christina Yeoh, 44 Eye 64 Remember Derek Ramsey • Parties Closing out the summer at the Hampton Author Andrew Wilson tells Alexander McQueen’s DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko DIRECTOR OF TALENT ACQUISITION Andy Limpus Classic. story . . . Annette Worsley-Taylor’s legacy. DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, • Arts & Culture Cartoonist Marisa Acocella & PRODUCTION Matt Williamson Marchetto has a new book, “Ann Tenna: A Novel,” 66 Finale SENIOR IT ANALYSTS Carl Foner Aramis Miranda-Reyes a satire on the excesses of social media. Piecing It Together: The creative process of digital IT ANALYSTS Don Gerber • Report Card Who got top grades at the VMAs? artist Rosanna Webster. Fred Baez TO CONTACT WWD 60 Think Tank EDITORIAL +1-212-256-8130 Executive search consultant Lewis Alexander ADVERTISING +1-212-256-8102 decodes the business behind luxury denim’s key CIRCULATION +1-515-237-3650 players: Dior Homme, Louis Vuitton, Tom Ford ON THE COVER: Digital collage by Rosanna Webster. and Prada. PHOTOGRAPH BY NYRA LANG

8 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Social Studies EDITED BY KRISTEN TAUER THE WEEK IN SOCIAL MEDIA Best Worst

“can you see this?” Sheer pantyhose in the summertime — what If this is where wearable technology is going, did she expect? we’ll take Google Glass instead.

@ladygaga @hoodbyair Lady Gaga, singer Hood by Air, fashion brand

“The 2nd week of studies at Central St Martin begins. Intense, exciting, serious and fun all the same time.” Antonio Banderas shared his back-to-school look.

@antoniobanderasoficial Antonio Banderas, actor

“My Clique and right hand @alexandrat- irsch #NYFW location scouting” Theory showed off the graphic side of its fall Jennifer Fisher found an in with the original “Every day is #NationalWaffleDay around here ” collection. power squad: Stormtroopers. Not every National Day warrants celebration.

@theory @jfisherjewelry @vans Theory, fashion brand Jennifer Fisher, jewelry designer Vans, brand

Trending Let’s Follow A NEW ORIENTATION: Instagram is branching outside of its signature square box. Last week, the social platform introduced the ability to upload photos as a portrait or landscape orientation. This fashion week, expect to see wider runway shots, a broader look at the front row and full runway looks.

LOAN CHABANOL LISA PERRY FAUSTO PUGLISI @proenzaschouler

@loancha @lisaperrystyle @faustopuglisi_wow

Actress/artist Fashion designer Fashion designer Michael Tran/FilmMagic Chaboni by Davide Maestri; by Eichner; Puglisi Steve by photograph Perry

10 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Follow Us @WWD EDITED BY DONNA HEIDERSTADT “Fashion is very exclusive…But [I’ve long thought] one day I would FashionAgenda love to do a show where anybody — which is the reality — could be a part of it.” Riccardo Tisci, Givenchy

Riccardo Tisci intensified the space to provide a Givenchy’s New calm, taller backdrop that York flagship on would highlight the Madison Avenue. merchandise, yet ordered the merch removed prior to photography.

Riccardo Tisci

outposts around Manhattan. The show will also have an art component, produced in collaboration with his longtime friend — “and second mother,” he adds — Marina Abramovic. One of the most influential designers in the world, Tisci produces work that awes. His run- ways are collisions of dissonant elements that contrast, conflict and contort, ultimately fusing into powerful statements of major fashion with an undercurrent of dark romance. Case in point: his arresting fall collection in which he played chola bravado against Victorian romance. It’s one of the inaugural collections carried in the New York flagship that opened on Madison Avenue last week, and the Milan store set to open on Sept. 11, the day of the show. The store provides a chic, restrained backdrop ew York’s huddled fash- audience demographics — and populist engagement of influence, he became his youthful dream in the to such drama, designed around a gallery concept ion masses are brimming in high fashion. Eight-hundred-twenty tickets will eyes of kids he’d meet on the streets and in clubs. with long, sleek islands replacing shelving for with hope. Hope for a seat be distributed first-come/first-served via registra- Likenesses of his former self, they longed to see accessories display and large photos suspended at the upcoming Givenchy tion on the dedicated Web site, givenchynyfw15. one of his shows. “So that puts me back in the from the ceiling — at least right now. For the store’s event after news broke com as of 10 a.m. today. Chances are most will go past,” Tisci says. “You know, fashion is amazing opening, campaign photos command the space — a on Monday night that to young people not in the market for a $29,500 and very exclusive. But [I’ve long thought] one day giant Donatella Versace greets arriving guests. But Givenchy’s the house will open the jacket such as the exquisite, discreetly flamboyant I would love to do a show where anybody — which chief executive officer Philippe Fortunato notes Ngolden door of its spring military-inspired specimen now hanging in its is the reality — could be a part of it.” an intended flexibility. “Today there are these 2016 show to 1,200 of the just-opened New York store. In a savvy community New York was a logical place. Givenchy’s con- pictures,” he says during a walk-through. He was most unusual suspects — non-industry, civilian relations ploy, an additional 100 tickets have been nections with the city run deep. Personally, Tisci in New York to check on the store and hammer out members of the public. reserved for residents living near the still-undis- loves New York for itself and because long ago it show details with the City of New York. “Tomor- Public Works “Opening to the public was my dream for many, closed outdoor show site, distribution details to be provided a romantic beacon to an Italian family row, it could be real art; it could be anything…a many years,” says creative director Riccardo Tisci announced. And 280 tickets will go to students and of modest means. “My father died when I was piece of art that’s enhancing that relationship Fresh on the heels of opening on Tuesday. Just back from holiday (and recovery faculty of local fashion schools. a baby, but my mom always said to me that my between the brand and artist, between the gallery from a diving-induced ear infection) and newly The topic of public access leads Tisci into a rev- father would always say to her, ‘one day I will take and the retail environment.” a shiny flagship on Madison Avenue, re-immersed in his collection prep, Tisci took a erie of sorts, one that begins with his now-familiar you to the Big Apple.’ It never happened,” he says. An LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton execu- Givenchy will show spring 2016 break for a long-distance phone call. story of growing up as the youngest of nine and “So in my blood, in my dream, in my thoughts, has tive for some 15 years starting out at Dior as manag- Having a significant general-public contingent in the only son in “a normal family,” loving but poor always been this: ‘I’m the only boy of the family. ing director for the Asia-Pacific region, Fortunato in New York — and the public is invited. the audience became an essential element almost after the death of his father, with the dream “to One day I will bring my mom to America.’ And I took the helm at Givenchy last September, after as soon as the decision was made in June to accept be a part of this moment that was the runway.” did, I did a few years ago when I won the CFDA Sebastian Suhl decamped to Marc Jacobs. Fortu- By BRIDGET FOLEY the CFDA’s invitation to show in New York. The Years later, “God gave me this beautiful karma [International Award].” nato seems well-suited to Tisci’s Givenchy with its move embraces much that Tisci’s Givenchy stands and I was blessed in this fashion world to arrive Tisci reveals that the show will take place on the moody, artful emotion yet with an increasing inte- for, combining the designer’s penchant for con- at Givenchy.” Becoming comfortable in his role street — he’s careful not to name which one — and gration of elements addressing pragmatic ward-

trast — more typically applied to sartorial élan than Chinsee George by photograph Tisci there and ultimately ascending to the highest level that there will be simulcast screenings at various robe needs. At the store he voices appreciation ►

12 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Photographs by NICHOLAS CALCOTT WWD.COM SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 13 for Tisci’s effusive creativity while explaining its Philippe logical ordering for retail, the first-floor women’s Fortunato area segmented into distinct sections addressing the most classic customer, the social/red carpet Agenda element and the runway customer. The men’s area upstairs on the mezzanine, covered in pale green subway tiles, has a tighter range of merchandise, addressing as it does a narrower customer base —

Fashion younger and more fashion-forward. “I love to say that it’s about mixing the logic and the magic,” Fortunato says. “You need to have the magic in everything you see, but behind every- thing there is a very strong discipline.” And there’s nothing wrong with a little luck. While the store is primarily white and sleek black lacquer, the payment counter is a deeply A giant burnished mirror in the universal color of wealth. Donatella Fortunato calls it “the golden nugget and a sym- Versace bol of luck and prosperity.” He takes the moment presides over to reference Tisci’s belief in divine guidance the store’s “giving him the drive and protection he needs” women’s and to draw parallels between the designer and selling area. house founder — an interesting comparison given that Tisci’s high-concept, high-impact runways don’t link back in any obvious way to the LBD- clad Audrey Hepburn imagery of Hubert de Givenchy’s heyday. Just as Tisci has utilized symbols and charms in his work, so, too, did Givenchy, who devoted an early couture collection to lucky charms — four-leaf clovers, fish bones, horseshoes. “That is a very interesting element that is very true to our brand,” Fortunato says. “You have a lot of similarities like that.” Among the biggest: smart utilization of the popular culture for marketing purposes. While Tisci’s celebrity connections, his tribe and his savvy use of social media are well-known, Fortu- The men’s nato argues that Givenchy was no slouch in the area, done in marketing department himself, taking a time-ad- pale green justed approach not all that different than Tisci’s. subway tiles. Then as now, and “whether we like it or don’t like it,” famous actresses were influencers, For- tunato argues. “Givenchy was a visionary when “It’s about mixing the logic he used the social network of his time, which was Hollywood movies. There was no [better] and the magic. You need to way to reach out to millions than to be successful have the magic…but behind making [fashion] visible in Hollywood. Riccardo is doing the same, using the facets of the 21st everything there is a very century. He’s doing it with movies, with music, with social networks.” strong discipline.” The designers also share a deep appreciation for Philippe Fortunato, Givenchy American culture, reflected in their work. Fortu- nato cites a formal White House portrait of Jackie Kennedy that he came across while doing research before taking the Givenchy job. She’s wearing a families migrated to the U.S. Some made it in a York venue. “I’ve built my identity over 10 years blouse with a soft, generous bow that indicates big way, some didn’t. Some came through Ellis at Givenchy,” he offers. “Like any other creative Givenchy’s dedication to providing women the Island. That is very important. The other thing that person or designer it took me a long time because freedom to dress in separates. Tisci, he notes, is very important to us is the American dream. It there’s so much fashion out there. I think today pushes that freedom exponentially. France has the may sound common, but you don’t have many what is successful in fashion — not only in fashion, savoir faire, the history and the craftsmanship to places in the world with the sense that nothing is but anything, in society, in music — is identity. create the world’s best fashion; it lacks the diverse impossible — that’s very strongly associated with People need identity.” street culture and aesthetics intrinsic to the U.S. American society.” While multiple nuanced facets comprise his from which Tisci draws continually in his work. If that’s the romantic side — the aforementioned Givenchy identity, one of the most powerful is a Both designer and ceo considered the decision magic of Fortunato’s equation — there’s plenty of strong, often dark romanticism. Spring may prove to show in New York a no-brainer, particularly on logic at play as well. “I think the stars were aligned,” his most romantic effort yet, with an undercurrent the heels of the long-planned store opening, As Fortunato says. “The house’s fascination with the inspired by the date. “On this day, what I’m trying for the date of Sept. 11 assigned by the CFDA, for American market…the store creating a reason to to achieve is literally a celebration of love,” he a first-time guest showing during NYFW, its aura celebrate…the fact that we were invited by the says. “Everybody has one thing in common, it’s couldn’t be ignored. CFDA, and the fact that we are ready to come up love. Love is free, it’s for rich people, it’s for poor For his part, perhaps taken with the historical with a more structured presentation of the house, people. Love is love. Something so natural, so real. sentiment, Fortunato waxes emotional about a better balance between the work of Riccardo and That is my point for today. I hope people are going Givenchy’s American ties and the more general the business image, it all gives us the confidence to to receive it in a very positive way.” yet personal resonance of the post-war connec- project ourselves outside of our boundaries.” And with all of the emotion inherent in that tion still felt in Italian households of his youth. Lest you just winced — oh God, Tisci’s coming message. “The moment I don’t have emotion “First, we don’t forget that they came and liber- to New York to turn commercial on the runway — anymore, I will stop my job,” Tisci says. “Because ated Europe. That’s something that we grew up exhale! He offers a firm “Absolutely not!” when what I like is to get emotion from people and give with very strongly,” he says. “Two, many Italian asked if he altered his design process for the New emotion to people.” ■

14 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM FASHION WEEK EVENTS whimsical emoticon surprise musical guest — jewelry, will hold her first to celebrate the launch formal fashion week pre- of his Gold fragrance. sentation at FleursBella Agenda to show her flower-in- Sept. 14 New in New York spired collection. THE BRANDON ¬ There are certain things during GANT DOES BEHIND GAGA: RUNWAY: Gant will Brandon Maxwell, stylist

Fashion New York Fashion Week — the tout the global launch for Lady Gaga, will unveil death-defying schedule, Alexander of The House of Gant at his collection at Mr. 2 Wang’s parties, Marc Jacobs’ 1 Spring Studios. Chow’s uptown location. punctuality, Michael Kors’ glitzy “GLOSS” AT Sept. 15 front row — that are a given. This BOOKMARC: Mauricio and Roger CROATIAN FASHION season, anticipation is high for Padilha, the brothers INVASION: The Down- behind Mao Public Rela- town Showroom will host Riccardo Tisci’s invasion from Paris tions, will launch their a meet-and-greet show- with a big-scale Givenchy show. third book titled “Gloss: casing three designers The Work of Chris von from Croatia: Igor Then there’s the debut of the Public Wangenheim” at Book- Dobranic; Ogi Antunac School guys for DKNY, a star turn- marc NY on Bleecker and Zoran Mrvos of Link, Street. [ 3 ] and Andrijani Subotic movie premiere from Jeremy Scott Pjajcik of Etna Maar. and a first collection from Lady Gaga CHLOE GOSSELIN AT THE MOVIES: The JEREMY SCOTT, THE stylist Brandon Maxwell. Here, a few 4 footwear designer will MOVIE: The celebri- of the new, noteworthy or otherwise host a cocktail reception ty-beloved designer [ 6 ] at a private residence will be on hand at the quirky happenings. One important 3 on the Upper East Side premiere of “Jeremy caveat for party crashers: The listed to toast the NYFW debut Scott: The People’s of The Chloe Gosselin Designer,” a film chroni- events are private and invitation- Collection Short Film, cling his career directed only, unless otherwise noted. starring model Elise by Vlad Yudin, at The Crombez, with music by Paris Theatre. By KRISTI GARCED and LEIGH NORDSTROM The Misshapes. Sept. 16 Sept. 11 A NEW DKNY: The Sept. 7 and others at Il Principe 7 GIVENCHY’S NEW first DKNY collection by LATIN STYLE: Curated at Hotel Hugo. YORK: The storied designers Dao-Yi Chow by Peruvian designer Parisian brand designed and Maxwell Osborne Sergio Davila, the week- BEVERLY JOHN- by Riccardo Tisci [ 4 ] will of Public School [ 7 ] long Latin Show pop-up SON’S BOOK stage its spring runway will make its run- shop, open to the public, LAUNCH: André Leon spectacle in New York way debut; location will highlight apparel, Talley will host “The Face this season, art-directed undisclosed. accessories and home of Change” Gala at the by Marina Abramovic; goods from Latin Museum of the City 820 tickets will be avail- THE ADAM LEVINE American designers at of New York, an event able to the public. SHOW: The Maroon 5 Chelsea Market. marking the launch of singer [ 8 ] will showcase model Beverly Johnson’s 6 MONCLER “ART FOR his collection for Kmart memoir, “The Face That LOVE”: Moncler will in a runway show at Kia Sept. 9 Changed It All.” host an exhibition and Style360. THE JESSICA silent auction at the SIMPSON DECADE: New York Public Library HARPER’S BAZAAR The singer, actress, real- Sept. 10 featuring 32 photos ICONS: The title’s ity TV star and fashion PAUL FRANK’S of its Maya jacket, with editors host this party for designer [ 1 ] will host a “CIRCUS JUMBLE”: proceeds supporting the second year, which cocktail event to mark 10 The monkey-faced brand amfAR. will fete the September years of her billion-dollar will present its children’s 5 issue’s Icons photo shoot clothing and acces- spring collection at Hud- by Carine Roitfeld and sories lines; location son Mercantile in a cir- Sept. 12 Jean-Paul Goude [ 9 ] undisclosed. cus-themed show with SELF-PORTRAIT: This and feature an acoustic aerialists, face painting, buzzy, London-based set by Katy Perry. GEN ART’S 20TH: candy and games. contemporary collection Under new manage- designed by Han Chong, ment, the organization FARFETCH will make its NYFW Sept. 17 will revitalize its Fresh “UNFOLLOWERS”: debut with a show at 541 MACY’S ON THE Faces in Fashion compe- Farfetch will host a cock- West 22 Street. RUNWAY: The depart- tition at Chelsea Piers. tail party for the latest ment store’s “biggest “Unfollowers” film, which MONSE: The collection fashion show ever,” LAUREN CONRAD stars Nicole Richie, who 8 by Oscar de la Renta Fashion’s Front Row, will DEBUTS: The designer plans to attend, and is alums Fernando Garcia feature more than 60 and former MTV reality slated to premiere on and Laura Kim — already models and 150 looks TV personality [ 2 ] will Farfetch.com; location spotted on Sarah mixing music and dance present her Kohl’s line at undisclosed. Jessica Parker and Amal at The Theater at Madi- New York Fashion Week Clooney — will hold its son Square Garden. with a runway show at INC AT 30: Heidi Klum first runway show at the Skylight Modern. and Gabriel Aubry will 9 Norwood Club. VERGE: QUEER NEW host a party noting YORK: Produced by RUE LA LA AND 30 years of Macy’s style Web site DapperQ, COTTON: Molly Sims private label brand at Sept. 13 the fashion show at the will host a preview of the IAC Building. MICHAEL KORS, Brooklyn Museum, open the 12-piece cotton SOLID GOLD: The to the public, will high- collection designed by ALISON LOU designer [ 5 ] will be on light looks from eight Nanette Lepore, Hudson JEWELRY: Alison Lou hand at The Top of the designers who focus on Jeans, Michael Stars Chemla, known for her Standard — as will a gender nonconformity.

16 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Illustration by LUCY HAN FashionBriefs MODEL CALL: MELODIE

QUOTED NYFW DEBUT MONROSE “Hermès is the most defensive RVN’s Ted Kim’s Seeing Stars Height: O “I knew I was tall and thin, but I never really 5’10” capitalized on beauty in general,” said 23-year-old name in the luxury space. OAs a newly named Council Hair: Melodie Monrose when asked if she had ever con- of Fashion Designers of A long waiting list plus a Black sidered modeling while growing up in Martinique. America member, RVN’s Eyes: French is the first language of the self-described Ted Kim will be in New York Black deliberate effort to starve former shy girl who, in her five-year career, has Sept. 9 to stage his first Measurements: nabbed campaigns for Gap, MAC Cosmetics, Nars Fashion Week presentation. 32, 24, 35 demand and maintain a Agency: and most recently, Giorgio Armani eyewear. “The The Los Angeles-based Kim Next Management most important thing is the connection that you worked at Donna Karan, rarity effect make it so that Hometown: have with the photographer,” Monrose said. “Once Michael Kors and Anne Klein Le Lamentin, somebody makes you laugh and makes you com- Hermès growth and margin before introducing RVN (the Martinique fortable, your guard is down and you can make name plays off revolution) Instagram: beautiful stuff together.” — KRISTI GARCED performance is more stable in 2011. @melodiemonrose The New School’s Parsons than [its] peers.” School of Design graduate Luca Solca, of Exane BNP Paribas, after Hermès posted has the re-enforcement of a 17 percent gain in net profits for the first half of 2015 camera-ready, RVN-wearing notables such as Beyoncé, Sofía Vergara, Katy Perry Lolë Strikes and Taylor Swift. Vergara’s stylist recently sprang for 20 fall items for the “Modern 10,000 Poses Family” actress — her third OAfter rolling out mats for 500 yogis RVN shopping spree. And Swift’s stylist just picked up in MoMA’s sculpture garden last year, five outfits and requested a organizers of the Lolë White Tour are custom-made one. “We’re turning into a Taylor expecting 10,000 Namaste-ers to take Swift atelier,” said Kim, add- part in its Sept. 2 event on the Great ing, “I’ve got worse things to complain about.” Lawn in Central Park, from 4:30 to 10 — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG p.m. An all-white dress code and online registration are the only requirements for the free class, which will be led by FRANKIE B IS BACK Elena Brower, Colleen Saidman Yee and Hollywood Rodney Yee. Makeover Indie pop singer Ingrid Michaelson OChadwick Bell has given Frankie B. a makeover just in will perform, as will special guest and time for a relaunch Sept. 12 at New York Fashion Week. former Madonna backup singer Donna The FIT-trained designer De Lory. Bernard Mariette, president who helmed a namesake ready-to-wear label from WARM COLLABORATION and chief executive officer of the four- 2008 to 2015, is best known Tracy Feith Returns year-old Montreal-based brand, will for dressing Elizabeth Banks To Fashion in an emerald-green gown also be front and center. What was it like growing up What are your thoughts on covered in dots and feathers OTracy Feith is back. The Los Angeles-based The New York stop follows similar in Martinique? diversity in the industry? for the Oscars in 2012. designer has been tapped by Winnie Beattie I’m not objective, but it’s a beautiful When I started, I was one of the At the now-rechristened to design the women’s ready-to-wear line events this summer in Toronto, place. I was lucky enough to spend few girls [of color] on the runway. Frankie B Hollywood, he is she’s launching for spring. It’s called Warm, Paris and Montreal. Lolë will also 18 years there. Life was sweet. You I wasn’t that aware, but people sticking to the rock ’n’ roll vibe just like the popular New York store Beattie don’t realize how good you have would make me aware. People set by Frankie B. founders opened in NoLIta with her husband, Rob host another mass yoga event Nov. 7 at it until you live in a big city all day. would be like, “Oh, you’re the only Daniella and Gilby Clarke, Magnotta, in 2012. the Santa Monica Pier, before stretching I came to New York and I was like, black girl in the show.” Sometimes, drumming up lizard-em- This will come as good news to Feith fans, “Wow. This is the biggest place I’ve people would make you feel like bossed moto jackets, lace who’ve been wondering what became of him the White Tour to Cambodia’s Angkor ever been.” Back home, I was a sim- you should feel happy about that, skirts, wool crepe tuxedo after he shuttered his collection for surf-y Wat next year. — R.F. ple schoolgirl — pretty shy actually. but you shouldn’t! I like that people jackets and painted flared beach babes in 2010 (He was quietly creative are starting to speak up about it. jeans for the new women’s directing at Toms Shoes). “I was really starting How did you start modeling? Recent Lolë White Tour yoga In Martinique, there were a few Did you ever have any mentors? collection. He’s also adding a to feel the itch to get back into design and events in Paris (above) and modeling contests from time to I met Coco Rocha when I started. men’s component, which will fashion again,” said Feith, who has known Montreal, shown here. include leather and suede Beattie since he hired her when he launched time. I went to one from Elite, but I She was a friend of my agent jackets and cotton suiting. his namesake collection more than 20 years didn’t get picked. Eventually I was at the time and she gave me a Made in the U.S., the ago. “It was an easy natural kind of collection scouted by an agent who found little training session and really collection retails from $178 for me to take on because it’s quite similar to some [of my] pictures. Back then, a useful advice: Don’t take things to $1,495. The Clarkes sold the TF girl of a few years ago.” lot of agencies in Europe [said] they personally. Just move on. And the company they founded The lineup is 70 pieces, mostly dresses with “weren’t interested in ethnic mod- never be afraid of trying, because in 1999 to F.B. Clothing in 2011 a chic earthiness to them. Beattie called it els at the time.” My mother agency that’s what’s gonna make the and are no longer involved “the Marais meets Santa Cruz” and within the still has the [rejection] e-mail to this most beautiful picture. Posing is in the business. The new range are groups named Lady of the Canyon day. But an agent from Wilhelmina emotional. Your head, your arm, owners are Mek Denim and Dance Hall. Everything is made in Los saw my presentation video and your fingers; it’s just a feeling. Pick cofounder Kevin Chen and Angeles and priced from $500 to $2,500. was like, “I’m gonna need to sign good music in the background, be lawyer Jeremy Weitz, who While the line will be sold at Warm, it’s really a this girl.” So I finished high school comfortable and never be afraid to acquired F.B. Clothing this wholesale collection launching with a presen- and came to New York. try anything. past January for an undis- tation Sept. 9 for New York Fashion Week. closed sum. — KHANH T.L. TRAN — JESSICA IREDALE

18 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Photograph by MATTHEW TAMMARO WWD.COM SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 19 EDITED BY PETE BORN hat began as a small a unique storytelling opportunity with which to Diptyque’s skin- and body-care assortment, called flame is turning into engage shoppers. L’Art du Soin, has been a harder sell. It launched Beauty something of a bonfire. And Diptyque is looking beyond the U.S. By in March 2014 and prices range from about $55 Agenda Since being acquired the end of this year, the company will have 36 to $72. According to Badault, it has taken time by Manzanita Capital stand-alone stores worldwide. In June, the com- to communicate the benefits of the line, which is WLtd. in 2005, Diptyque pany opened a store in Madrid, marking its first based on various botanical infusions, to consum- has evolved from a venture in Spain. Asia is also beckoning, with ers. She added that there would be new products brand best known for its scented candles — Baies a store set to open in Tokyo this month in the in September 2016 that will be focused more on is a perennial favorite among the style set — into Tamagawa mall, and outlets in Nagoya, Japan, treatment. a burgeoning lifestyle company specializing in and a second Tokyo locale in 2016. “On top of this “We have chosen to launch this line in a very everything from scents to skin care to stationery. Japanese extension, we will open our first flagship limited distribution, knowing that it would take Founded in 1961 by Christiane Gautrot, an in Mainland China in October, in Shanghai’s Plaza time to build this totally new category,” Mauny interior designer; Desmond Knox-Leet, a painter, 66,” Mauny said. said. “We continue to heavily sample it and we and Yves Coueslant, a theater director and set have also developed a travel offer to allow custom- designer, Diptyque started life as a stylish shop ers to discover the range in a different way.” The on Paris’ chic Boulevard Saint-Germain. At the “It’s always very challenging travel set sells for $75. time of its acquisition a decade ago, the brand to convince loyal customers Diptyque is also looking to add new categories Flame had expanded into a well-regarded collection of and grow its lifestyle range called La Collection 34, scented candles and sales were reportedly about to try [new innovations], which is inspired by the company’s first storefront $10 million at retail. because the candle has in Paris. Over the last four years, Diptyque has signifi- “We have started working on prints and deco- Keeper cantly broadened its reach — both in terms of been there for years.” rative objects,” said Mauny, ticking off the many product categories and retail outlets — and its new products currently being launched. “We Having quintupled sales. According to industry estimates, the brand Myriam Badault, Diptyque have proposed photophores [Diptyque-speak now generates about $40 million in retail sales and for candleholders] in metal, ceramic and glass, its business in the is projected to grow 20 percent this year. with different prints and designs. We have also Its growth reflects the strength of the home-fra- As Diptyque expands its footprint, it’s also developed a new stationery line including cards, last four years, grance category overall. According to The NPD growing its number of product categories. In the wrapping paper, notebooks, all reinterpreting the Diptyque is quickly Group, in the prestige beauty market, home last year, the company has launched eight scents house’s historical prints.” ancillaries represent a small but vibrant niche. and six lifestyle items, such as stationery and can- As with the brand’s distinctive diffusers, which expanding from a For the 12 months ending July 2015, sales in the dleholders. In October, it will unveil its first oud are striking, hourglass-shaped objects, Diptyque category grew 34 percent, driven by the luxury scent called Oud Palao, priced at $145. Inspired continues to push the envelope design-wise. “We candle concern into market and brands like Diptyque, Nest Fragrances by Gautrot’s love of zellige, which is Moroccan are experimenting in the development of objects and Jo Malone. terra-cotta tilework, the scent’s composition is in wax, like vases for flowers, or new objects in a lifestyle company. “Growth in the last years has come from a governed by similar principles as the artisanal ceramic,” Mauny said. “Our goal is to continue in By JAYME CYK right balance between new products and inno- architecture and blends Bulgarian rose, Laotian this lifestyle direction.” vation both in the home and fragrance segments, oud, Indian cypriol, Madagascan vanilla and And therein lies the rub. Succeeding at that together with strong animations to continue Indonesian patchouli. mission will be critical for growth. “The key to the to push forward our products,” said Fabienne “It’s always very challenging to convince loyal brand is that it’s a lifestyle company,” DiDonato Mauny, global managing director at Diptyque, who customers to try [new innovations], because the said. “We have a strong penetration in the world declined to comment on the figures, but noted candle has been there for years,” said Myriam of fragrance and we are not just a home brand. sales have quintupled in the last four years. Badault, marketing and creative director at Dipty- The other piece that is incredibly important is for Key to its growth is the company’s store expan- que. “You have to explain and teach and give them us to represent ourselves in all categories, in all of sion. Four years ago, Diptyque only had three a way to use those [new] devices.” our wholesale accounts and treat ourselves much company-owned boutiques in the U.S. By 2016, Although fragrance is currently driving growth, like a beauty brand.”■ it will have a total of 15, including most recent openings in Houston and its first outpost in Bal Harbour. The company is also eyeing real estate in Canada. Diptyque’s Growing Footprint “We do a lot of research The key is retail expansion; the company will have 36 stand-alone stores worldwide, [before entering a new terri- plus department stores in the U.S. tory],” said Donna DiDonato, U.S. managing director. “We Christiane Gautrot often start off with a wholesale account to see what the market will bear.” The brand is also accelerating its department 1 store presence. Currently, Diptyque is sold in 8 more than 150 doors in the U.S., including Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York and Nordstrom. 1 4 3 DiDonato said the strategy is to develop the brand 1 2 in what it considers the best doors worldwide, 1 13 2 2 rather than opening too many new ones with 1 limited potential. “[We want these retailers] to be 1 branded with our concepts so consumers get the true Diptyque experience,” she said. Barneys, which launched Diptyque more than 20 years ago, is still behind the brand. “It contin- ues to be an incredibly strong business for us,” said Jennifer Sunwoo, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of women’s at Barneys New York. “And it’s one of our top brands, particularly for candles.” “Diptyque has had significant growth over the past few years,” agreed Kate Oldham, senior vice Countries with Retail Locations president of beauty at Saks Fifth Avenue, noting Boutiques Planned Boutiques Considered Boutiques

Illustration by Carlos Monteiro by Illustration that each of the line’s distinctive fragrances offers

20 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Photograph by THOMAS IANNACCONE Styling by RACHEL STICKLEY WWD.COM SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 21 22

SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 BeautyAgenda under thesun.” simple”and“nothingnew felt itwas“very some But ontheotherendofspectrum, By By Cologne Indélébile Cologne Frédéric Malle deParfums Editions The Smell Test: Avg Score “A pretty, USA, white, creamy, solar, 6.0 out of 10 already seen:BacktotheNineties.” World" and"Perfume Legends." agency Austin AdvisoryGroup. JAYME CYK Author of "Fragrances of the Ceo of storytelling sensory The background lastsformany hours cosmetic, green but floral.Good Michael Edwards Coppertone fragrance Coppertone construction, thewear apleasant is construction, “It smellsabitlike effect ofthemuskseffect andlightsweet with avery smoothyet powdered notes. Althoughvery simpleinits Paul Austin newsworthy scent.” aboutthis

WWD.COM eau thatborders decologne seem to be anything newor seem tobeanything one andeasytounderstand.” beautifully composedandfresh. notingitwas scent, summery ofjudgesA majority favored this “A nicely sparkling crafted, tuberose. Ilike solarmusk theclean signature, on boring. Thereon boring. doesn’t and “Very summery, fresh of andcrisp, acocktail orange flower, mandarin,verbena and juicy however, it’s nothingnewunderthesun.” PETE BORN a glorified Jean-Claude Delville Senior perfumer atDrom.Senior perfumer Founder andceo of Sniffapalooza. Karen Dubin .

Fragrance industry analyst and Christophe Laudamiel Bois deJasmineditor. Victoria Frolova Master perfumer at DreamAir. Owner of training andevaluation base. Great start, base. Great start, ground, orrather, theraspy laundry musk perfumehitthe untilthis festooned fantasy orange“I wasinaSicilian blossom Nathalie Pichard Chantal Roos agency Topnotes. Roos &Roos Co. Cocreator of rough landing drydown deceptive.” is notes are notasgood. The exquisite. Too badthebase and happy —quite notes withfreshvery cologne, “A very lovely departure, Photograph critic for arabia.style.com. Biophysicist andperfume Kevin Verspoor PerfumeKev LLC. Luca Turin Founder of .” by by GEORGE CHINSEE fresh yet tenacious.” balanced, marvelously reinterpreted. Beautifully “Ah, eau decologne Esteemed Judges other consumer. buys theproductsWWD atretail, like any an effort to findandshowcase excellence. promising scentsare picked for judgingin unattributed to encourage candor. Themost Edwards, alsomake critiques, whichare grade. The judges, ledby chairman Michael and thenumbers are computed into afinal from 1(forgettable) to 10(unforgettable) tially. Each of themgives ascore ranging vials of anunidentifiedscentto judgeimpar- THIS ISABLINDTEST: wear atthebeach.” made itmore originalandreal cuteto Maybe abitofsexy coconut would have a commonwhite musk background. tarlike noteand a dissonant ambery from jasminenote, note, apart awatery else around thecleanorange flower “An withnotmuch cologne easycitrus WWD.com/beauty-industry-news How would you rate thefragrance? Visit lasting, distinctly femininefragrancethat lasting, distinctly innovation madeupforinalong- is What itlacksinuniqueness andcreative of theclassicorange blossomscent. alovely, is “This well-composedrendition me toTuscany.” immediately Styling by by Panelists are given drydown.” notes, clean top acidic “Harsh,

transports transports RACHEL STICKLEY to vote. to

Illustrations by Kate Copeland 24

SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 BeautyAgenda W Girl andHead andShoulders.Shealsoended an and spokeswoman/ambassador roles for Cover with Kay Jewelers, furniture withRooms toGo includes herfragrancelicensewithParlux, jewelry gig, she hasamultifaceted personalbrand that gara. InadditiontoherEmmy-nominated acting overdo butit’s it, my passion,”she said.) notto ofcake. “Itry (Oh,and cake. Lots a scent. she with wantedtocommemorate themilestone withWWD,neur duringaninterview adding that my life,”saidthe43-year-old actress andentrepre- Joe Manganiello],andit’s timein avery important But life isn’t alljustcake andperfume forVer- Sofía’s New Love

WWD.COM By By on weddings, fragrancesandcake. VergaraSofía off in November [toactor did. Vergaraaccent? Sofía ate afragranceasan wedding, why notcre- hen you’re planninga JULIE NAUGHTON “I’m getting married Vergara Sofía by Love mated she pulledin$28.5millionlastyear, amix with anotherpartner. still interested inpursuingthatmarket segment apparel year, earlier this dealwith Kmart butshe’s daily routine. For likingmen’s alongtime, Istarted ofyour beingpart up withperfumesand colognes babies,” she said.“We’re very into andgrow that, grance world. we on “InColombia, putcologne ers herthoughts And she’s got Fortune traction. magazineesti- of herentrepreneurial projects Vergara would enterthefra- everything happen forme.” everything a householdname.It’s made show“The allowed metobecome lucked outwith “Modern Family.” Family.” onABC’sdo-Pritchett “Modern and herrole asGloriaDelga- It was perhaps inevitable that It wasperhaps inevitable Vergara freely admitsthatshe pick colors,designs,have toapp involved I [withalloftheseitems]from thestart. TaylorElizabeth andSophiaLoren asachild.“I’m that she wasinspired by fragrances fronted by that I’mnotinvolved with,”saidVergara, noting gent andIdon’t wanttoputmy nameonaproduct products. pies, she she’s insists actively involved withher a very good dealwithme.” time, they don’t have tohire people.Theyget two commercial inEnglishandSpanishat thesame both markets,” Vergara I’mdoingthe said.“When plus. “Withme,sinceIspeak theytarget Spanish, more interesting.” andperfumes—Ithoughttheywerecolognes plete ifIdon’t putanice fragranceon.”■ showering andgetting ready —Idon’t feelcom- of fun.Ilove perfume.Ilike thewhole of ritual business,” she said.“It’s very rewarding andalot in thefuture. “Modern Family,” andhopes todoanothermovie seasonof filmingthelatest gara alsojuststarted SharkNinja tolaunch Bardevice. Ver- itsCoffee spokeswoman dealwithhouseware company on theroad tothatdream, having justinked a tomy country.”so important Sheseemstobe coffee, andI’d love topromote somethingthat’s coffeepartnership. toColombian “I’maddicted magazines. lifestyle fashion, and beauty runninginOctober begin set thatwillbeexclusive totheshopping channel. 22topromoteappear aLove onHSNOct. gift at Perfumania andperfumania.com. Vergara will will sellfor$55. ThescentwillbesoldonHSNand parfum spray willretail for$32, while a3.4-oz. size eauof amberwood, pralineandvanilla.A1-oz. de flower, andadrydown andorris, magnoliapetals and orangecoffee ofColombian blossom;aheart Fragrances, hastopnotes GaurinCassar andPascal ofInternationalFlavors & ful andreal to me,” she said. coffee flower note.“Iwantedthemtobemeaning- flowers asnotes;Love hasanunusual Colombian The firstfragrance had anumber ofColombian includes anodtoVergara’s heritage. Colombian scent.” the Sofía time itwaseasier, especiallyaswe builtLove on to beablesay ‘it’s my perfume.’ Thesecond “If peopletold methat Ismelledgood, Iwanted Sofia Vergara, waslaunched inApril 2014 onHSN. said Vergara, theself-named whose firstscent, make sure itwassomethingI’d beproud towear,” because Iwantedto went alot, backandforth theprocess,had tolearnunderstand andwe firsttimeI easier thesecondtimearound. “The Vergara saidthescentdevelopment process was of your daily routine.” beingpart and colognes grow upwithperfumes onbabies.cologne We… we“In Colombia, put Sofía Vergara “The peoplewho buymy“The stuff, intelli- they’re Even thoughVergara hasherfingers insomany heritageShe alsoseesherColombian asahuge And, more fragrances. “It’s such aninteresting As forfuture deals,Vergara jonesingfora is shot by Smith,will A printadcampaign, Carter Love, withYves which theactressconcocted Like Love — herinitialscent, —outinOctober backtoLove — Going —thefragrance,thatis Illustration ofmandarin,green apple

by by VIKTOR MILLER-GAUSA rove every rove thing.”

Shepherd photograph by Cooper Neill/Getty Images for MegaFest invited to share theirown out. Customers are also what makes themstand Angela Davis—discussing — includingCNN’s Michaela of videosfrom influencers Aug. 26, includesaseries The campaign, whichbegan celebrate theiruniqueness. inspire girlsandwomen to Greener thatisintended to zation cofounded by Emily Girl, anot-for-profit organi- teaming upwithIAmThat #bornandmade. ness campaigndubbed with anew adandaware- empower girlsandwomen Lisa Price is hopingto O One for All MARKETING Supply.Sally Beauty company andits expansion in partnership withthewig Now ambassador, onher comedian andLuxHair Sherri Shepherd minds.” change their asthey often as hairstyles change their to the ability to give women own wigline myto start “I wasinspired WIGGED OUT For thisinitiative, Priceis Carol’s Daughter founder , actress, magazines. begin runninginOctober USA andfeaturing Price, will new brand owner L’Oréal A printad, thefirst under found atbornandmade.com. using awidget thatcanbe #bornandmade images stories andcreate theirown O Beauty Boosting O On theMove MAKEUP slated to besoldon Device. Micro-Foaming Cleansing offeringsbeauty withits looking to ramp upits current beauty. when consumers thinkabout company thatcomes to mind company’s latest launches, airing to merchandise the will beonaone-hourQVC On Sept. 8at2p.m., Ellingson Gugnani, isaddingto itsmix. Divya business partner Lindsay Ellingsonandher by Victoria’s Secret model cosmetics brand founded the five-month-old color Priced at$199.99and In October, Panasonic is But thatmightbechanging. In thefall, Wander Beauty, Panasonic isn’t thefirst — JULIENAUGHTON O NACDS TSE “disruptive innovation.” tition from whatmany called facing encroaching compe- aisles,beauty butthey are a homeinthenation’s mass Cover Girlwillalways have 22 to 25. L’Oréal, Revlon and Expo show, heldfrom Aug. at NACDS’ third Total Store orado Convention Center massive floorattheCol- companies walked the from more than250retail case asrepresentatives used to be.” “the future ain’t whatit Steven C. Anderson noted, and chief executive officer Chain DrugStores president National Association of water andisdumpedinthe ing capthengets filledwith The device’s cover/measur- pour inafoaming cleanser. wherecompartment users T-zone area. brush headto tackle the small pore-targeting silicone The device alsocomes witha via two temperature settings. remover plate thatheatsup end consists of amakeup one end, whiletheopposite brush designed to on purify tains aJapanese-style soft panasonic.com, thistool con- aren’t] just aboutcities, but $22 each. of geleyeliner pencils, $21 each, andthree shades three shades of brow pencils, uid eye shadows, $26each, including four shades of liq- products onitsWeb site, and ageleyeliner trio, $29.98. priced $55, alipstick duo, $30, kit calledtheParis Collection, which includeafour-product That was certainly the The tool alsocontains a “[Upcoming collections Wander willalsounveil Quoting Yogi Berra, the Beauty Boston. Store Expowilltake placein from theU.K. concepts andexecutives of importing further Boots which many thinksignal Walgreens Boots Alliance, management shake-ups at merchants. available to select mass a natural skin-care linenow eliminator, andDr. Hauschka, Nicka K;Poo-Pourri, anodor a colorcosmetics linefrom in point:Absolute New York, natural beauty. Afew cases quirky introductions and targeted atMillennials, products from Korea, lines status quoincludedbeauty strategic growth areas.” USA. isoneof“Beauty the keting andbeauty, Panasonic president of consumermar- said CorrieMurphy, vice on ourother product lines,” and expanding andrelying say we have to start growing leadership hasdecidedto brand for several years, the being suchaTV-focused meringue consistency. begins to foam into a it’s turnedon, thecleanser middle of thebrush. Once strong digital base.” with someonewhohasa we’re really lookingto work in selecting aretail partner how important itisto us. So see thepower of digital and Gugnani said. “Ultimately, we companies underinvest in,” area alot of colorcosmetics sive growth andthat’s an mobile we’re seeingexplo- shopper soby investing in customer is]really amobile mortar distribution. “[Our own Web site andbrick-and- three retail pillars: TV, their are buildingtheirbrand via makeup schoolfor me.” [modeling] hasreally been because thelast 10years said. “It canbeanything backstage inMilan,” Ellingson a makeup trend thatIsaw in aFrench pharmacy or may beaningredient Ifound Next year, NACDS Total The other bignews was New items shakingupthe “Having beenknown for Ellingson andGugnani — FAYE BROOKMAN Briefs — JAYME CYK — J.C. A LITTLE. AHEAD, DEADLINE: 9.23.15 Now AcceptingEntries Get therecognition know beautybest. CEW.ORG deserves, chosendeserves, ENTER NOW. BRAG by thosewho your product GO 2016 WWD.COM

SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1

25 EDITED BY ARTHUR ZACZKIEWICZ from active brands and “a lot of start-ups in New York” attracted to its flexibility and speed of Markets production. Finding a Retail Path Agenda Jim Andriola, sales manager for Texollini, said MADE IN A domestic approach is embraced by some AMERICA the company has also seen action from new firms coming into the local market. Andriola said, “I stores. By SHARON EDELSON have three companies that I’m working with — one in New York and one each in Boston and The Made in America push is where her products come from.” end of the month to a new building Philadelphia.” ¬ having an impact across the retail “Customers care and we don’t that has twice the amount of Helfenbein said, “Those companies that are landscape. see that going away,” she said. square footage — 45,000 square able to survive and compete today are doing so From mass-market giant Wal- “Behind price, it’s a driver of her feet. We grew a little faster than we because of speed to market and flexibility, and Mart Stores Inc., which in 2013 purchasing decision. We’re trying expected.” carving out a niche industry. We’re able to spin committed to buying an additional to communicate [Made in USA Brooks Bros. has acquired three very efficiently in this country.” $250 billion in products that sup- products] and make it clear to her factories since 2007, including A report last month from the International port American jobs over 10 years, and easy to find. We’re really clear Southwick in Haverhill, Mass., where about the labeling.” 80 percent of the brand’s suits are Textile Manufacturers Federation said U.S. yarn to Brooks Brothers’ acquisitions of American factories to upscale Wal-Mart this spring was made; a plant in Long Island City production grew 4.4 percent in the first quarter of Worth, which makes all of its first accused by the watchdog organiza- in Queens, N.Y., where all the ties 2015 compared to the year-ago period and ITMF samples and certain styles in the tion Truth in Advertising of labeling are made, and a third factory in analysts expect the positive trend to continue. U.S., retailers are embracing manu- products as Made in the U.S. when Garland, N.C., where all of the luxury Brian Mandt, ITMF senior economist, said reshor- facturing closer to home. they were not. and made-to-measure shirts and ing to the U.S. to supplement offshore production When Wal-Mart — with $482 billion “There were some inconsis- shirts under the Black Fleece label to meet demand for “quick turnaround items for in annual sales — spoke, it opened tencies across a small portion of are produced. fashion” has played a key role in the recovery. ears and eyes. walmart.com,” Marsiglio said. “We “We’re keeping the Southwick “From the beginning when we were quick to react and made some brand alive,” Del Vecchio said, In the “Recovery” study, Mandt noted that put this ‘purchase order’ out there, corrections. There were some noting that the brand is sold to in May, employment in U.S. textile mills rose to we’ve had challenges,” said Cynthia errors we were able to address.” independent retailers in the U.S. and 119,400, the highest level since September 2011. Marsiglio, vice president of U.S. At the other end of the price internationally. “We’re close to being Capacity utilization rates for mills reached 82.3 sourcing and manufacturing for spectrum, Brooks Bros. has taken able to offer a lot more product. percent, and in the first quarter, income after tax Wal-Mart U.S., referring to the $250 an organic approach to manufac- We can increase production.” The in textile mills rose 43 percent year-on-year, the billion commitment. “The obstacles turing in the U.S. ceo said making products “in the 11th straight quarterly increase. have included navigating the supply “There’s a lot of movement in the U.S. per se is not the mission. The U.S. to bring back production and mission is offering our customer The number of spinning machines shipped to chain and finding raw materials or component parts.” re-shore,” said Claudio Del Vecchio, quality products. Made in America the U.S. has climbed significantly over the last Product categories with varying the retailer’s chief executive officer. can fulfill part of that dream.” few years. In 2014, short-staple spindles shipped degrees of complexity can make “The consumer seems to be more Manufacturing at home can help totaled 26,832, up from 13,056 the year before, manufacturing in the U.S. difficult. interested in American-made increase the service level in stores. and shipments of open-end rotors surged to “Apparel and textiles are more products. The challenges are still He said, “It gives us an opportunity 60,632 units, sharply up from 11,196 shipped in challenging areas,” Marsiglio said. the same. All the machines that to stock faster and be closer to the 2013. “Not everything is feasible in the come to U.S. factories are imported. market. There are a lot of advan- tages. Of course, the cost is still Gildan Activewear is in the midst of a $250 mil- U.S. today. But new technology and Technicians able to service those automation are making apparel and machines are very rare and the the biggest problem because we’re lion investment to build two new yarn-spinning textiles competitive again.” components aren’t here.” importing all of the components.” facilities in North Carolina, each about 500,000 For the second straight year, the Del Vecchio said he grew up in a Del Vecchio said the next chal- square feet. The venture is slated to create about Wal-Mart Manufacturing Innovation factory of his parents’ business — lenge will be producing women’s 500 jobs. Fund winners of $4 million in total Italian eyewear giant Luxottica — so wear in the U.S. grants were entities related to when he came to Brooks Bros., it One of the stars of the Made Textile Sector n the last two years, textile companies textiles. was “a natural thing to evaluate the in U.S. renaissance has been the from India, Mexico, Canada and China have “We’ve seen progress across state of the manufacturing.” Detroit-based watch brand Shinola, the big food categories, as well as “At that time, it was not great,” he which has proclaimed its roots in unveiled new investment plans in the U.S. Mills modernize general merchandise and apparel,” said. “The two factories that were a series of emotion-stirring videos Iof more than $700 million, creating some Marsiglio said. “In toys, we’ve seen left, a tie factory and a shirt factory, and advertisements. Tom Kartsotis, amid a need for quick 2,000 jobs in the Carolinas, Georgia and great momentum from the supplier were planning to close. I looked at the firm’s founder, discussing the Reindustrializes Louisiana. base.” Marsiglio said Wal-Mart them and felt we could do some- planned introduction of audio response. In March, Peds Legwear opened a $16 million is “right on plan” in achieving its thing about them.” devices, eyewear and jewelry at a Del Vecchio invested in the two June conference, said, “If [Shinola] ruce Springsteen wrote, taking steps to devalue its currency. By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN facility in Hildebran, N.C., at a former bankrupt 10-year goal. “They’re closing down “A lot also has to do with the cost of labor and hosiery mill. The company said the investment “We started looking at 1,300 factories and also purchased can make a watch in Detroit, I think Southwick Clothing LLC, a suit we can make just about anything.” the textile mill across the electricity,” said Rick Helfenbein, president of could create more than 200 jobs in the state. categories across the business,” she said. “We’ve made a significant manufacturer. Shinola produced its first Made railroad tracks. Foreman Luen Thai USA and chairman of the American The Montreal-based sock and legwear manufac- commitment to what we’ll buy.” “It was on the edge of its life, with in Detroit watches in 2013 and its says these jobs are going Apparel & Footwear Association. fabrics and the labor-intensive cut-and-sew turer reshored production with the re-engineer- According to Marsiglio, Wal-Mart 290 employees,” he said. “Today, assortment has grown to include boys and they ain’t coming A report, “Recovery of the U.S. Textile Indus- industry. Concentrated in the Los Angeles area, ing and reopening of the facility and has plans customers “have a desire to know we have 550. We’re moving at the bicycles, paper goods and leather. back.” try,” said last year the cost of power per kilogram and the Carolinas and Georgia, these mills have to expand by investing an additional $8 million, B It seems The Boss was of yarn in the U.S. was 16 cents, equivalent to 5 been building and investing in their businesses in bringing the firm’s U.S. investment to $24 million. wrong. percent of costs, while in China it stood at 42 the last few years with a focus on the quick-turn, Unifi Inc. broke ground in July on an What began as an unlikely topic of conversa- cents, or 9 percent, and in India it was 29 cents, quality and flexibility they offer. 85,000-square-foot addition to its Repreve Recy- tion a few years ago — a revival of the U.S. textile or 8 percent. Andy Long, vice president of sales and market- cling Center in Yadkinville, N.C. The expansion industry — in the fallout of the Great Recession Helfenbein also noted that the domestic textile ing at Tuscarora Yarns in Mount Pleasant, N.C., of the facility will increase capacity to produce has become a dynamic industrial movement. sector has benefited from exports to North Amer- said, “We’re working with companies that aren’t Unifi’s Repreve recycled fiber brand and other A recent survey of major American fashion ican and Central American Free Trade Agreement treating this as a test anymore, but are interested premier value-added products by up to 60 million and retail companies by the U.S. Fashion Indus- countries. U.S. exports of textiles and apparel in pursuing programs and want what we bring to pounds annually. The $10 million investment will try Association indicated the continued rise of increased 3 percent in 2014 to $592 million, the market, which is quality yarns, competitive create an estimated 18 to 20 new jobs in Yadkin domestic sourcing. The U.S. ranked fifth among with 75 percent coming from fabrics, fibers and pricing and fast turns on production.” County. the respondents’ sourcing destinations, with 53 yarns, according to the U.S. International Trade David Sasso, vice president of international “We continue to estimate annual growth in percent sourcing from home. Nearly 39 percent Commission. sales at Buhler Quality Yarns in Jefferson, Ga., the NAFTA and CAFTA regions of approximately of the respondents said they plan to increase Nearly two-thirds of U.S. textile exports during said the key factor driving the revival of U.S. 5 percent,” Roger Berrier, Unifi’s president and sourcing by value or volume in the U.S. in the 2014 went to Western Hemisphere free trade part- manufacturing is “speed — the ‘I want it now’ chief operating officer, said on a conference call next two years and 80 percent of the companies ners, according to the National Council of Textile retail and consumer attitude.” with analysts. “We anticipate that the growth in said they already source in America. Organizations. The U.S. textile industry exported Asher Fabric Concepts, a Los Angeles-based brands and retailers that are choosing to source The resurgence of domestic production stems to 199 countries, with 25 countries buying $100 knitter for the contemporary, activewear and their products in the Western Hemisphere will from a variety of factors, including rising wages in million or more a year. Yarn spinning and knitting yoga markets, has seen its business grow to the continue into the foreseeable future and we China and the sharp decline in fuel prices in the have been at the heart of the comeback, as those point where it has opened a New York showroom remain very confident and committed to the U.S. Though this advantage might not last as long companies have been able to more fully automate for the first time. Jolie Fierro, vice president of region and the importance that it has to our Ties made in Brooks Brothers’ Long Island as hoped, with oil prices rebounding and China their factories compared to makers of woven sales, said the firm has received healthy business overall business.” ■ City factory in Queens, N.Y.

26 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Illustration by MIKEY BURTON WWD.COM SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 27 MADE IN AMERICA

the validity of its vertical business, stacking all the levels necessary for production under one roof. Others that have pursued a similar model to control their supply chain include Reformation Agenda L.A. Makers and Robin’s Jean.

n the next five years, “it’s my intention to have a stand-alone, all-in-house factory with everything,” said Hoors- Markets Walk a Tightrope enbuhs founder Robert Keith, who maintains his manufacturing in down- Revival Teeters on External Forces. By KHANH T.L. TRAN town Los Angeles and the studio and showroom for his fine jewelry brand I and a clothing label called Leisure in Santa Monica, Calif. “I’m hoping to o picture the dynamism of Across the Los Angeles River, in a cul-de-sac evolve into that.” the Made in Los Angeles partly covered by a highway ramp, Ukrainian- A factory’s destiny is often tied to wages, movement, it helps to take born Galina Sobolev stands firm with a digital which, in the city of Los Angeles and unincorpo- a quick tour of the county’s fabric printer that helps bring the vivid artwork rated parts of the county will rise, at a minimum, apparel, textile and acces- on her women’s contemporary line, called Single, from $9 an hour today to $10 in January and New York sories industries, which come to life. then $15 in 2020. Made-Well, which occupies a employ more than 51,900 “We can make the sample for you,” said the 5,000-square-foot building with some 40 workers T people. white-haired representative from CadFab, “at who sew colorful activewear just a few blocks east Back in the In one corner of East Los your price.” After thanking him, she said, “Of of Hollywood, is debating whether it should stay Angeles, Jason Trotzuk zips through a maze of course, I put pressure on everyone on price in Los Angeles. rooms in a sprawling factory that cuts, sews and because we have to compete.” In Simi Valley, a sleepy town in Ventura Game washes jeans for his 10-year-old brand, Fidelity Nearly three miles away in the Jewelry District, County, a city representative has reached out to Denim. In 15 minutes, he asks a sewer to slow in an unassuming office building, three crafts- Made-Well with a litany of incentives, including Industry and government down and avoid jumbling stitches on a hem, people donning white lab coats concentrate on tax exemptions and prime locations, to move combine for a revival. nixes a pair of green-tinted jeans because they buffing heavy rings, rounding the edges of sterling its factory. lack the brightness of the original wash he wishes silver links and securing chains with pliers for “It is a tough subject we’re worried about,” By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN to replicate, and notices that a button tab on a Hoorsenbuhs. A few steps to the left, a coworker said Made-Well president Martin Karamanoukian. pair of men’s shorts has been attached backward. preps pink wax for casting and a turn to the right If he does decide to venture north, he hopes his “It’s human error,” said Trotzuk, who finds it leads to the polishing room. employees are willing to make the 37-mile com- Made in America revival without much easier to catch mistakes now in Los Angeles Soon, Hoorsenbuhs plans to tear down the mute. “A lot of our workers have been with us for New York would seem incomplete. than when he tried to make denim in China from walls to double the size of its 1,100-square-foot 20 years,” he said. But spurred by several initiatives, 2005 to 2007. “It happens all the time.” space. It intends to add three more polishing sta- Aware of the burdens placed on Karamanou- AMade in New York — and even Made tions and install a laser machine to etch precious kian and other executives, Garcetti reassures in Brooklyn — is alive and well. metals, as well as a 3-D device that makes multiple them with frank talk: “Don’t freak out about any Eric Johnson, director of the Fashion & Arts molds for rings. regulation or wages,” he said. That’s because his Teams Center for Economic Transformation at “By the time we look at “We’re making the most jewelry we’ve goal is to make the city more the New York City Economic Development Corp., ever made,” said Kether Parker, a partner in competitive; for instance, by noted that apparel manufacturing in New York, minimum wage being at Hoorsenbuhs. increasing the threshold for which once employed 100,000 people, will never Buoyed by rising costs in China (which is seek- an exemption from paying any come back to what it was, but that doesn’t mean its highest point, I intend ing to lower prices by devaluing its currency) and business tax from $100,000 to it can’t be viable again. for us to have taken a escalating demands from retailers for speedy $1 million in total annual gross “It’s about having that vital critical mass so that deliveries, the Made in Los Angeles movement receipts. The effective date is any designer that is looking to produce product in huge bite out of our city’s has been riding a wave of resurgence. But in subject to approval from the New York is able to do it,” Johnson said. “A number the face of a drastic minimum wage hike and Mayor Garcetti mayor and city council. Law- of macroeconomic factors that affect the cost of business tax.” Eric Garcetti, L.A. Mayor drought-induced water restrictions, it may come makers also recently extended production locally versus overseas and the gap to a loud crash. the business tax holiday that grants a three-year have shrunk. We also have a growing consumer Whether they’re creating jeans, swimsuits, exemption to firms that move to Los Angeles base that cares about how things are sourced.” handbags or diamond pavé rings, designers are from other cities. Erin Kent, manager of programs at the Council navigating the choppy waters carefully. Some “Quite frankly, if Simi Valley or other places of Fashion Designers of America’s Fashion Manu- factories are under threat of closing, while oth- are talking about that, I think the state will prob- facturing Initiative, said the program — launched ers are being enticed by neighboring districts to ably be close to where we’re at by the time this in 2012 in conjunction with the NYCEDC — has move out of the City of Angels. [minimum wage] actually gets there. So I don’t awarded 13 grants totaling $1.2 million so far. What is inevitable is that local apparel and know that there will be much regional poaching,” “We think Made in U.S. and Made in New York accessories manufacturers need to adapt. Garcetti said. “And eventually, by the time we are very real and have a really strong chance,” “We have to specialize and be good at what look at minimum wage being at its highest point, Kent said. “It’s not going to be an immediate we’re good at,” said Los Angeles Mayor Eric I intend for us to have taken a huge bite out of switch where everyone is going to be producing in Garcetti. our city’s business tax.” the U.S., but it’s a slow progression. It’s all about A number of designers, retailers and academics There could be worst places in the world to investing. We started this endowment fund and agree that, to stay creative in Los Angeles, the do business. As sales grew to almost $1 million we’ve been investing in New York manufacturing. industry must emphasize not only technology but this year from $150,000 in 2013, Nashville-based It’s a very real possibility and a huge commitment also handcrafting. It also must up the design ante, Ceri Hoover rapidly expanded the pool of people from American fashion designers and we see it proffering special, exclusive pieces with loftier making its leather handbags from Tennessee and happening in the next three to five years.” prices that can cover the higher wages required Indiana to California. Johnson said in February the group created to make them. “Look, I’d be lying if I said it wouldn’t be great Made in New York for the fashion industry, with “For a new designer, it’s hard to sell $170 jeans to do it all here,” said Craige Hoover, chief execu- $15 million for existing programs and ones that at 10,000 to 20,000 [units],” said Kevin Youn, tive of the label named after and designed by his help emerging designers get flexible financing. who runs a sustainable denim washhouse called wife. “At this point, Nashville doesn’t have that Meanwhile, leading a grassroots effort are Eco Prk and produces $360 jeans for his own labor force and the skill set.” groups such as Manufacture New York, which is line called Tortoise Jeans. “You’re going to have Besides, he notes that in comparison to his developing its Wearable Tech Research and Devel- Fidelity Denim’s Jason Trotzuk stores more boutique [brands] or less labor-intensive other out-of-state factory, “from a brand per- opment Center in Brooklyn, and Maker’s Row, $1.5 million worth of Italian and products.” Japanese denim to enable his just-in- spective, ‘Made in Los Angeles’ gives it a certain which has created a database for local companies While the fate of American Apparel is up in the time manufacturing in L.A. level of cachet that maybe ‘Made in Indianapolis’ such as Quick Fusing “to find manufacturers to

air, many designers and retailers acknowledge Xxxxxxxx Xxxxx Xxxxxxxx Xxxxx Chelsea Lauren/WireImage by photograph Garcetti doesn’t.” ■ create products here in the United States.” ■

28 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Photograph by ZACH LIPP Illustrations by MIKEY BURTON WWD.COM SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 29 Currency fluctuations are a top concern facing brands here. Despite its most recent Texworld rally against the dollar, the euro is trading at a favorable rate of $1.14 China as of press time. While this bodes Adapts well for consumer spending, the cost of raw materials valued in dollars will certainly increase for European fabric Amid purveyors. Jitters Cloud “We hope that with the dollar so strong, we will start to see Economic [improved] results in the Chinese market, as well as the American market, since the exchange rate Turmoil Milano will have the most significant impact on the manufactur- Messe Frankfurt France is ers of finished products,” introducing tech fabric show Barberis said. Avantex alongside Texworld Since it is still unclear Unica Fair how China’s economic trou- and Apparel Sourcing. bles and its monetary policy By ALEX WYNNE The U.S. remains a key export market for will affect the rest of the world and Greece’s flailing economy Italian firms, especially as China’s economic continues to cloud the fate of Europe, companies are hesitant to ncertainty. That will be the troubles and monetary policy, along with rework their strategies. overall mood at the trio of fab- Greece’s continued woes, limit growth “The euro-dollar exchange rate for ric and sourcing shows orga- now does not justify strategic changes,” nized here by Messe Frankfurt opportunities. By SOFIA CELESTE said Luca Belenghi, ceo of Gruppo France as the recent global Tessile Monti SpA. Ueconomic volatility and fluc- Giovanni Bonotto, creative direc- tuating currencies generate tor of upmarket textile-maker increasing concern among textile manufacturers s markets struggle to which our sales and marketing efforts Bonotto SpA, said, “The seeking orders in China and the U.S. stabilize amid China’s must be concentrated in order euro-dollar exchange hasn’t “A lack of visibility for the mid- and long-term is economic uncertainty, to face the persistently stagnant influenced our business what’s preoccupying [exhibitors] the most at the brands set to showcase situation of the Italian apparel model significantly. Our moment,” said Michael Scherpe, chief executive their fall 2016 fabric col- market and the overall weak clients buy only if they are officer of Messe Frankfurt France, organizer of lections at Milano Unica recovery in European Union in love with a fabric and Texworld, Apparel Sourcing Paris and the new for three days starting markets,” said Silvio Albini, oftentimes this has nothing high-tech fashion fabric event Avantex. The shows ASept. 8 are focused on Milano Unica’s president. to do with price.” will take place at the Le Bourget exhibition center the world’s most popu- Milano Unica said that in the first Overall, some 401 exhibitors from Sept. 14 to 17. lous nation like never before. quarter of 2015, exports to Hong will participate in Milano Unica’s “Nobody really knows today what will happen “While we have noted rising sales in the U.S. Kong and China, the third-largest September edition. About 71 of in December….But there is nevertheless one and Japan, the Chinese market unfortunately market for Italian fabrics, declined 1 per- these brands are foreign, up 16.4 piece of positive news: the price of raw mate- in the last few seasons has declined, and I think cent, while exports to the U.S. surged 14.4 percent from the last Milan edition. rials — natural and synthetic — have almost all that in light of the latest economic developments, percent compared with the same period a In addition, the fair will host the dropped,” Scherpe added. “That could stimulate this [trend] will continue for the next year,” said year earlier. Japanese and Korean Observatories. purchasing.” Silvio Botto Poala, chief executive officer of Botto Across the board, Italy as a nation is Inaugural events on Sept. 8 will see the Giuseppe SpA. also struggling to boost exports to China. continuation of the On Stage project. The Italian government and Milano Unica orga- According to Italy’s statistics office ISTAT, A collaboration with the Woolmark “There is nevertheless nizers have been preparing to offset unfavorable exports to China rose only 0.8 percent Co., the On Stage project cultivates one piece of positive news: headwinds emanating from China, one of its key in the first half of the year, trailing young talent. The 10 emerging foreign markets, for some time. exports to the U.S., which surged designers will present their col- the price of raw materials 27.5 percent, boosted by the weak lections in an event-show open — natural and synthetic — “The euro-dollar exchange euro against the stronger dollar. to the city of Milan, in Via Biella-based luxury fabric Montenapoleone, the heart have almost all dropped.” hasn’t influenced our mill Vitale Barberis Canonico of fashion in Milan. said Shanghai is key to stim- As for trends, upmarket Michael Scherpe, Messe Frankfurt France business model significantly. ulating existing business and looks have been crafted Our clients buy only if they New York is vital to procuring to accommodate modern-so- new American clients. But Milan phisticate lifestyles. Bonotto With the fall of the euro in recent months, are in love with a fabric and remains the hub for the company’s will focus on ethnic and techni- Texworld’s mostly non-European Union-based most important business generated cal motifs. exhibitor base has suffered. At the show’s Febru- oftentimes this has nothing in Europe, and serves as a showcase Botto Giuseppe will unfurl wool ary edition, several exhibitors cited the weak euro to do with price.” for its Asian clients who come to Milan and silk and cashmere combos aimed as a severe competitive disadvantage, but Scherpe to see designs that were not already pre- at jersey and other knitwear, while said he believes the market has weathered the Giovanni Bonotto, Bonotto SpA sented within the pre-collections. Gruppo Tessile Monti will showcase worst of the situation. “Despite the newness of the New York its “Monti Red Label” that will include “I think the difficulty is already past,” he said. fair, Milano Unica remains the crown jewel upscale, alternative looks meant to “It’s something [exhibitors] have had to take into Earlier this year, Milano Unica, now dubbed — we believe in Made in Italy products evoke a sense of easy elegance and account, but they have adapted, albeit not with- Milano Unica World, unveiled its expansion plans and we believe that what is produced with new sporty twill and popeline out difficulty. Their fabrics have become more as part of a broader plan engineered by the Ital- in Italy should be presented in Italy,” materials. ■ expensive as the euro has dropped.” ian government to boost exports to the U.S. and said Alessandro Barberis Canonico, Nor does he see the current problems in the improve sales in China, while fortifying Milano managing director of Vitale Bar- Fabric looks for fall 2016 from Bonotto (top and Chinese economy having a significant impact Unica’s spin-off fair in Shanghai and launching its beris Canonico and president of second from bottom) and on exhibitors from the country, which generally New York edition in July. Ideabiella, a section of Milano Vitale Barberis Canonico represent more than half of the firms showing at “China and the U.S. are the markets towards Unica. (two in center and bottom). Texworld. ►

30 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 31 “The infrastructural MarketsBriefs crisis in China’s textile industry is nothing new,” PV Puts Scherpe said. “For years, Agenda some companies have been shutting down and others Focus on opening. [The] industry there is undergoing a pro- found mutation to become Markets Teamwork Cheap Cities more competitive.” A new shoe forum, targeted San Francisco might be home to techies with Messe Frankfurt France O is adapting to the changing seminars and innovation hubs high salaries and the city might also have some of landscape with the intro- are among novelties. KEEPING WARM the highest rents in the country, but it is also the duction of the Avantex Canada Goose By PAULINA SZMYDKE most frugal, according to an analysis of coupon show, as well as adding Launches Online more of a fashion spin in U.S. redemptions by Coupons.com. to Texworld in recent Coupons.com savings expert Jeanette Pavini said seasons. ogether, we are stronger. O After a successful test of e-commerce in the fall in its the top nine frugal cities on the list “collectively Exhibitor numbers are That seems to be the home market of Canada, out- expected to be stable at mantra of the upcoming erwear firm Canada Goose saved more than $252 million” on the site, adding 880 at the core Texworld Première Vision Paris is launching direct-to-con- that San Francisco was a surprise because it is Shopping the Texworld show. event, which Scherpe said fall edition. sumer shipping to the U.S., “known for wealthy tech entrepreneurs and off- should not be seen as a lack Having united its six which is the fastest-growing of demand, but the result shows under one banner market for the company. The the-chart housing prices. We also saw that San of more stringent selection criteria for exhibitors are part of its selection committee. for this year’s earlier launch is set for this month Franciscans were three times more likely to use T at canada-goose.com. and a focus on quality. Apparel Sourcing, now in its ninth edition, edition, the textile trade Kevin Spreekmeester, chief coupons than residents from other U.S. metros.” “We have integrated [the notion] that there continues to grow quickly, with 400 companies fair, slated for Sept. 15 to 17 at the Parc des marketing officer of the is no point in having 150 exhibitors showing the signed up to exhibit, a 41 percent increase year- Expositions in Paris Nord Villepinte, is aiming company, said the move was same thing,” Scherpe said. on-year. Highlights will include Apparel Sourcing’s to attract visitors through a more targeted informed by market trends 1. 2. 3. The company has introduced fashion shows first Vietnamese pavilion, with 10 exhibitors, sev- offering in the midst of a challenging economic that show robust growth in and highlighted the role of its artistic directors eral conferences on sourcing, and fashion shows environment. online shopping. Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud, who deliver highlighting the exhibitors’ offer. Textile-makers are poised to rethink strate- several trend presentations during the event and There will also be a focus on made-to-measure gies as they face a decline in textile and apparel garments, with seven Chinese companies present- consumption, especially in Europe, as well as a QUOTED ing their capabilities in this growing domain that consolidation of apparel firms and a slowdown “I never combine industrialized production and short lead of luxury exports, most notably to China. SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON ORLANDO, FLA. times with a made-to-order selection. “The goal is to make the fair a one-stop attempt to Avantex, which bows with 25 exhibitors and shop,” said Gilles Lasbordes, executive direc- 4. 5. 6. several conferences, will focus on connected and tor of Première Vision, citing a shoe forum, make money intelligent fibers. These will include fabrics with more specialized seminars, digital tools and a on the stock integrated LEDs and so-called “cosmeto-textiles” reorganization of the existing sectors among incorporating skin-care ingredients or fragrances the event’s new features. market. I via nanotechnology, for example. “The show forum is something the buyers While technologically advanced fabrics have have specifically asked for — a space that illus- buy on the taken hold in sportswear, they have yet to truly trates offer, trends and innovation in a field assumption TAMPA, FLA. CHARLOTTE, N.C. ATLANTA penetrate the fashion world, but Scherpe is con- that has become as important as ready-to-wear Digidreamgrafix/Shutterstock; by Charlotte Sean Pavone/Shutterstock; by Tampa rstock;

vinced this is about to change. and accessories,” the executive explained. Shutterstock that they “I believe the time has come for things to Some 24 exhibitors specializing in technical could close 7. 8. 9. change, with the arrival of new generations footwear components as well as materials, and new designers who desire something else,” mostly leather, are organized to help visitors the market the Scherpe said. “I realized [there was a demand] put together complete shoe collections. because at Techtextil, which is a technical fabric Lasbordes said the economic slowdown in next day and SENSATION LA LAME show and not a fashion event [hosted by Messe China started affecting the tanners’ business not reopen it AND Frankfurt in Germany], people are starting to even before the recent stock market crash. INNOVATION Leading Manufacturers become interested in fashion applications.” “Following the anticorruption measures for five years.” NASHVILLE CLEVELAND DENVER Other highlights common to all three salons taken by the Chinese government, leather of Stretch Fabrics Warren Buffett, investor Premiere Vision, Paris, Presents an Innovative New Collection include an expanded focus on digital printing — goods sales have declined, though the effects the subject of a new sister salon, Avanprint, to on our business are indirect,” Lasbordes 15-17 September, of Knitted and Woven Fabrics and Trims 2015 / Hall 5, R 91 Made in Europe, USA and Asia debut alongside Texworld in February. added. “Our luxury tanners are not directly Conferences will focus on fall 2016 fabric selling to China, but they are selling to luxury Spacers • Microfibers • Textures • Metallics Feel the future of smart trends, sustainability and sourcing. The denim groups that are exporting their products into tailoring fabrics, and British silk weaver Vanners. Royo and Parisian textile designer Jean-Pierre Ollier Laces in Allovers and Galloons • PU/PVC Leather fabric design with the latest section of Texworld is growing and will feature the region, where leather bags have been A total of 55 countries are represented among will offer ideas to brands that wish to integrate jeans partner innovations with Embroidery: Sequins • Chemical Lace new exhibitors offering denim blended with fibers popular gifts. So yes, the tanners have been exhibitors this season, with Italy, France and the or overdyed items into their collections. Cupro and ROICA™ for Cotton Eyelet • Ribbons and fabrics like Tencel, modal and silk, while affected, more so than textile-makers.” U.K. still leading the pack. Albania, Macedonia and While the global environment is turbulent, said The Modern Wardrobe Indonesia will make its return to Texworld with Novelty Elastic Trims: Metallics, Reflective, The executive said he would also keep an Serbia will enter the roster at PV Manufacturing, Lasbordes, “at the stands at least, this season prom- Ruffles, and Crochets its own pavilion as the country’s weavers seek to eye on luxury suiting fabrics. while Hungary is to make its debut at PV Leather. ises to be more dynamic than ever, as exhibitors are capture the European market. “China is a significant market for men’s At PV Leather, the Incube forum is to inform investing in larger exhibition spaces and more diver- Heat Transfer Appliques: Rhinestones, Studs, “Indonesian polyesters and laces are very suits, where they are regarded as a status buyers about innovations in the field, deliver details sified offers to better meet the needs of their clients.” Flocks and Gel Wires for Bras popular with fast-fashion and creative brands,” symbol and also function as gifts,” he noted. of the traceability of skins and the chemical trans- Lasbordes expects attendance to remain stable Please Contact Glen Schneer, Vice President explained Scherpe. For fall, PV is to add 153 brands to its inter- formations they have undergone. at around 62,000 visitors. However, there could [email protected] • www.lalame.com There will also be a focus on silk, one of the national roster of 1,926 exhibitors, 19 of which Sections at the fair have been reorganized to cre- be negative impacts from calendar effects, as the most popular fabrics at Texworld after cotton, are to return to the fair after several seasons of ate stronger synergies between exhibitors. Formerly fair coincides with New York Fashion Week, while a 132 W. 36th St., 11th Fl., with more than 40 weavers present, including 13 absence, hoping “to develop their commercial grouped by “style universes,” the offer will be orga- decline in Russian visitors could dent expectations. New York, NY 10018 companies from the Huzhou province of China. activities and gain international visibility,” nized by products, such as embroideries, silks and “European consumption, except in Great Britain, Ph: 212.921.9770 Overall, some 1,300 exhibitors and roughly according to show organizers. prints. Among these, a new Upper Jeanswear area continues to slide,” he added. “The BRIC countries, Fax: 212.302.4359 &XSURLVDSUHPLXPnjEHUDQGnjODPHQW\DUQ 16,000 visitors are expected at the events, Among the newcomers are historic French from Asahi Kasei Fibers Corporation. has been installed at the intersection of Première which have been regarded as the epitome of dyna- ROICA™ is a registered trademark of although Scherpe said it was too early to give an lace specialist Potencier Broderies; Peruvian Vision Fabrics and Première Vision Manufacturing. mism, are not doing so well, either. In the global Asahi Kasei Fibers Corporation.

accurate prediction of visitor numbers. ■ weaver Aris Industrial, which specializes in Paris Texworld by photograph Show San Francisco photograph by Pal Teravagimov/Shutterstock; Washington by Orhan Cam/Shutterstock; Orlando by Songquan Deng/Shutte Orlando by Orhan Cam/Shutterstock; by Washington Teravagimov/Shutterstock; Pal by photograph San Francisco Atlanta by Rob Hainer/Shutterstock; Nashville by Shutterstock; Cleveland by Henryk Sadura/Shutterstock; Denver by EdgeOfReason/ by Denver Henryk Sadura/Shutterstock; by Cleveland Shutterstock; by Nashville Hainer/Shutterstock; Rob by Atlanta A collaboration between Spanish denim weaver context, only the U.S. seems to be active.” ■

32 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 33 AccessoriesAgenda EDITED BY DIANNE M. POGODA AccessoriesBriefs

Candie’s boots at Kohl’s.

Circus by Sam Edelman’s sneakers.

TEAMING UP Charlotte Olympia Meets Havaianas OLondon footwear designer Charlotte Dellal, known for her Charlotte Olympia label, is lending a dose of exuberant chic to Havaianas flip-flops. Dellal will launch three flip-flop styles and a beach towel, all riffing on her Hollister Co.’s backpack. Theodora & Callum’s hat at Lord & Taylor. Alex and Ani’s necklace. New Balance’s sneakers. Disney x Van’s backpack. design signatures, with the Brazilian label during Milan Fashion Week in high-tops were a trendy option, with specific best- Target spokeswoman Sarah Zeman said 2015 is October, landing at retail in February. sellers including its 580’s and Vazzy Rush styles. a big year for licensing. Whether it’s new movies Priced from $55 to $115, Kitty is a slim, Circus by Sam Edelman appealed to the girlier like “Minions” and “Star Wars” or favorites like side of ath-leisure, with novelty slip-on sneakers “Frozen” and “Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles,” she black flip-flop in Dellal’s gold-cat motif; emblazoned with popular sayings, emojis or said accessories, backpacks, supplies and apparel Charlotte’s Web is a blush pink design Runway to Hallway emoticons. with these characters have been well-received. with a web pattern and gold spiderweb “The core of our novelty program comes from For older customers, more generic prints are Top back-to-school accessories take their cues sport,” Edelman said. “[This customer] wears her the key. “For back-to-school, backpacks are the details, and Bruce is a red number doing very well.” expressions on her sleeve, so to speak, so we’re key volume driver for the accessories division,” featuring Dellal’s regal leopard mascot. from key ready-to-wear looks. By LAUREN MCCARTHY Alex and Ani’s newest necklaces feature adjust- giving her a glitter silver sneaker that says, ‘not said Vans’ Redding. “We recently launched Vans The towel is woven with images of able lengths, making it easy to get the desired mul- x Disney and a printed project with design house tinecklace look. Beecher Fritzmeier, the brand’s “The Seventies-inspired Eley Kishimoto that helps drive energy and vol- Fifties-style pin-up girls. vice president of design, added that the company’s ume into the category.” The designs will be carried at The new Unexpected Miracles line is another option. bohemian trend… Added Wacksman of Kohl’s, “We’re seeing Havaianas store in São Paulo, at s back-to-school shopping must-have style is a high-shaft boot in tan — not “And, we are expanding price points so everyone good response to photo prints — photorealism peaks, retailers are notic- black — with block heel,” she said, naming Frye can buy into it.” represents a more global prints in food or galaxy lightning prints are our Charlotte Olympia’s stores and Web ing a trickle-down effect as a popular brand. “Last year, we were talking The influence also applies to bags. “Our num- and sophisticated way of two top sellers….Middle-school kids are also site, as well as select retailers. — NINA JONES from some of ready-to- about booties, but the tall silhouette with a block ber-one trend is all about fringe,” Horowitz said. shifting to interesting prints, which can be any- wear’s biggest recent heel is quintessential for that [Seventies] look.” “Our customers are really loving that look.” expressing individuality.” thing from a hamburger to a doughnut print.” trends: Seventies and Jesse Edelman, national sales manager for Sloan Tichner, president of Steve Madden While backpack silhouettes tend to stay tradi- ath-leisure. the Circus by Sam Edelman division of Caleres, handbags and accessories, said popular bags for Nicole Fischelis, Macy’s Inc. tional — though Kohl’s did note a spike in mini A “[This year], we’re agreed: “In the boot category, the update is a half the brand are of “Seventies soft-rock” influence, and slouchy styles — adjustments are being made HOT ITEM hearkening back to the shaft/half boot that comes a little higher up the with suede as a key material. to accommodate more tech gadgets. Charming Seventies,” said Stephanie Solomon, vice presi- leg for clean lines.” For students going for comfort remains a trendy basic.’ There’s fun and whimsy in it.” Vans introduced two styles for fall — the Old Charlie’s dent and fashion director of Lord & Taylor, noting The Seventies has also given a boost to a tradi- option. Sneakers lead the way. The idea of novelty extends to the b-t-s quintes- Skool Plus and Cameo — which include upgraded Bag-in-Bag brisk sales. tionally under-the-radar category: hats. “Sport sneakers and the rest of athletic continue sential accessory, the backpack, and the category internal organization features to hold such items. Nicole Fischelis, Macy’s group vice president “Hats are trending for early back-to-school, and to perform [well],” said Sofia Wacksman, vice is being driven this season by styles adorned “High school students require more range due to OTwo-for-one is the key and fashion director of global forecasting, said, that dovetails with the Seventies’ loose, relaxed president of trend at Kohl’s Corp. New Balance’s with bright colors and graphics, across all grade laptops and other items,” Redding said. to Charming Charlie’s “We have been seeing a big resurgence of the style,” said Sears’ Liz Simon, president of the Scarlet Batchelor, manager of the brand’s kids’ levels. “Younger customers always respond to A testament to the selfie generation, many retail- Manhattan flagship’s Seventies influence, which may have a stronger apparel division. category, noted that kids’ sales are up 6 percent bestseller: a bag-in-bag said founder and chief characters,” said Sears’ Simon. “The new ‘Star ers added that this year’s students are not afraid tassel tote with a executive officer Charlie year-over-year in the 12 months ended in July. influence in the high school bracket. The slightly “A felt, wide-brim hat is a must-have,” Solo- Wars’ movie comes out toward the end of the of styles that will get them noticed. “Every student removable cosmetic Chanaratsopon. The bag older girl is more likely to embrace the Seven- mon said. “It tops off any look. We were recently “When it comes to girls’ footwear, we’re not just year, so that’s one to watch from an accessories needs a backpack and sneakers, but personaliza- pouch. “The removable retails for $35 and is the ties-inspired bohemian trend as it represents a in California and there wasn’t a girl who wasn’t competing with other brands — there are so many standpoint.” tion is really big this year — including stickers, interior pouch and optional brand’s most popular more global and sophisticated way of expressing wearing one.” style options. With the shift toward ath-leisure, we Mass retailers Target Corp. and Wal-Mart patches, novelty keychains and slogans,” said shoulder strap make option of bag-in-bag individuality.” She cited denim, chokers and suede Long, layered jewelry also lends itself well to the can increase market size,” she said, adding the uni- Stores Inc. both noted popularity among char- Macy’s Fischelis. “We’ve been seeing a big trend in the tote versatile and offerings. Total sales for cross-bodies. trend. “Our jewelry has taken off significantly,” sex trend has girls going somewhat more neutral. acter-driven backpacks, with the latter citing novelty that is resonating with younger students. multifunctional, allowing it bag-in-bag styles year-to- to double as a cross-body, date are 110,000 units, or The prime example of this trend’s influence said Fran Horowitz, brand president of Hollister. Vicki Redding, vice president of apparel “Frozen,” “Minions” and “Teenage Mutant Ninja It’s all about expressing yourself, whether it’s your shoulder bag or a clutch,” $3.5 million in sales. — L.M. is the evolution of the boot, Solomon said. “The “Layered necklaces with the three-tiered look are and accessories at Vans, said Nineties-inspired Turtles” as its most popular properties. sneakers or cell-phone case.” ■

34 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 35 EDITED BY EVAN CLARK incredibly overvalued. You know, there must be RetailBriefs something up their sleeves, like commitments lined Retail up that allow them to pay more.” Agenda Brand acquirers were hard-pressed to name any % brands that were too toxic to touch. The general feeling was that most consumers don’t care or aren’t aware of a retailer’s problems. Stocks on Sale 84 percent for the past year Take American Apparel: Retailers and Wall Street OEven before last week’s and ended last week at 46 investors may be well aware of the negative head- wild swings in the market, cents. The company looks lines associated with the company and its former Wall Street’s bargain bin to be focused on its core surf/snowboarding crowd ceo Dov Charney, but the average shopper might was filling up with retail and fashion stocks. and seems less interested in have no clue or not be concerned. Just this past Shares of Aéropostale being a mainstream brand. summer Sasha Obama wore an American Apparel Inc., Pacific Sunwear of With all the sameness Reviving dress and Kylie Jenner has been seen wearing California Inc., Quiksilver Inc., amongst retailers, Quiksilver several American Apparel basics over this season. American Apparel Inc. and could carve its niche, like And in the comments section on the Coldwater Joe’s Jeans Inc. all started Zumiez has done with Creek Facebook page, a loyal customer expressed out this week at less than a skateboarding. The question skepticism that the company ever went bankrupt dollar — and all have market is how long it will take the $1 company to rightsize its or has a new owner. She called it suspicious and capitalizations of well below $100 million. operation. And the clock is a scam, even though the firm’s bankruptcy and Beat-up These superdiscounted ticking, roughly a third of the acquisition was well-documented in the press. companies might be shares are shorted meaning “There’s a difference between a bankrupt situa- struggling their way through many traders expect the tion where there were major business errors and a turnarounds, but being down stock to drop further. brand where there is something still rich or magic doesn’t necessarily mean * Pacific Sunwear of Cal- about it,” said Kevin Singer, senior partner at global these companies are out. ifornia is down 69 percent for the year to 72 cents per research agency Millward Brown Vermeer. Some big money managers Brands are hunting among the share and only recently He gave Enron as an example. “There is no desire less-expensive stocks for looked to be climbing off to bring back the name Enron, but Coldwater Creek big values. worse, competitors such as The New York investor its bottom. The mall-based had a loyal customer base,” Singer said. “They felt Investing guru George American Eagle Outfitters demanded to see the chain’s teen retailer was slow to good about the brand.” Soros dipped into the Inc. have begun making a books and feels its advice recognize the return of Buying the name of a bankrupt company isn’t bargain bin during the turnaround, causing inves- is being ignored. And while denim and has suffered new, but the increase in brand awareness as a result second quarter, when his tors other than Soros to Christopher & Banks has from product sameness. PacSun left its surf origins of social media has been a game changer. Soros Fund Management wonder if Aérospostale will warned that its sales have picked up 210,800 shares be able to recover. continued to drop, Macellum and now is loosely aligning of Aéropostale with a value Companies with thinks the company could itself with a skateboard “The big change is that of $341,000 — the stock has less-expensive stocks, but see meaningful revenue lifestyle. The chain has also since fallen and ended last turnaround potential, also growth with the right moves. signed on Jenner girls Kylie the number of retail week at 92 cents. find themselves as targets Elsewhere in the bargain and Kendall for a line of The retailer has suffered of activists. bin: Western-inspired clothes. store flags is shrinking from lower mall traffic and Christopher & Banks Corp. * Quiksilver has seen its For consumers, buying the shift away from logo- — shares of which started popularity ebb and flow over any new look requires a cer- and there’s not a ton of based clothes. Sales fell 17 the week at $1.71 each the years. The surf-inspired tain amount of fashion risk, upstart retailers trying percent to $327 million in the (albeit with a market cap apparel chain hired a but the stakes always get second quarter as the red around $65 million) — finds restructuring adviser in July higher when taking in deep to take their place.” ink continued to flow and the itself facing activist investor and it’s the second time in discounts at a clearance company expects to post Macellum Advisors, which five years it has brought in sale. The same can be said Gabe Fried, Hilco Streambank another net loss in the third said in July that it owned extra help to pore over its on Wall Street. quarter. To make matters 5.1 percent of the company. options. The stock is down — D.B.

Brands can now more easily monetize their name DEBT RATINGS by measuring e-mail lists and social media recogni- tion. David Peress, executive vice president at Hilco, J.C. Penney said these lists are so important that distressed Makes the retailers sometimes try to swell the ranks as they wind down. Big promotions as a company closes Grade Christopher Burch paid $2 million to buy the sales jump 14.1 percent in the second quarter as down brings in new shoppers and the clerks can O As J.C. Penney Co. Inc. There are plenty of intellectual property of his C. Wonder brand during total retail sales inched up just 1 percent. grab those e-mail addresses for the list. repositions itself in the bankruptcy and then quickly sold it to Xcel for $3 “You would think that with the number of chan- The companies buying tired brands have built market and boasts improved sales performance, the million. The brand will be relaunched on QVC in the nels shrinking, that it would drive the price down, players ready to step up up the infrastructure and relationships they need company is making the QUOTE spring. Similarly, teen retailer Delia’s intellectual but there is lots of capital available,” said Fried, to jump on new opportunities and take advantage grade with both equity and and breath new life into property was purchased by Fab/Starpoint for $2.5 referring to troubles in the mall distribution chan- of a brand’s exposure and its customer list. “Nothing debt analysts. million this year, with the new owner targeting sales nel. Green Street Advisors has forecast that 15 per- Xcel has a team of designers at the ready and Deutsche Bank analyst mature retail names. of $40 million in 2017. Softree paid $2.2 million for cent of U.S. malls will fail within the next 10 years. a strong relationship with QVC that allows it to has slowed Paul Trussell boosted his rating on Penney’s stock to By DEBRA BORCHARDT the bankrupt Deb Shops name from Cerberus and “It’s a very liquid market with a lot of people quickly ramp up a brand name. down….We’re just this week, Filene’s Basement, the intellectual chasing deals,” said Fried, adding that the field Likewise, Iconix has a track record for acquir- buy from hold and raised his a debt upgrade from Fitch $277 million in 2014,” the target price to $12 from $10. property for which is owned by Trinity Place Hold- could become more crowded if the big online retail- ing brands and then licensing the names out to very happy Ratings, which moved J.C. rating firm said, adding “The company is already that outlook is based on 4 ings, revealed it will resurface as a Web site this fall. ers such as Amazon start seeing value in owning earn royalties. The company, though, has been Penney’s issuer default so far with proficient in the art of retail status to a “B-minus” from percent comp growth and t’s a seller’s market for brands. With more investors wanting to buy into this vertically integrated brands. criticized for trying to prop up its maturing brands under its seasoned mer- a “CCC.” gross margin rates of about Demand for established retail names limited number of brands, the basic math of M&A Already, private equity firms such as Marquee with joint ventures and other tricks and has been the results in chandising team with what “J.C. Penney has demon- 36 percent. is on the rise, even when the brands are is taking: More players chasing fewer brands equals Brands, which opened last year, and Sycamore Part- challenged lately by the departure of ceo Neil Cole, China. I think we think are the right brands strated a meaningful turn- “The upgrade reflects best known in the industry for sitting higher prices. ners, founded in 2011, are competing with strategic shareholder lawsuits and a review by the Securities and assortment,” Trussell around in its business over increased confidence in J.C. atop failed companies. In part, that’s “The big change is that the number of retail store licensing businesses Xcel, Sequential and Iconix. and Exchange Commission. we’ve got the said in the upgrade. the last seven quarters and Penney’s ability to improve “New ceo Marvin Ellison is because labels today can have a greater flags is shrinking and there’s not a ton of upstart “To start a brand from scratch is an incredible Still, Iconix’s ability to use brands to produce Fitch expects the company EBITDA to the $800 million wind in our now driving the next step of reach and more intimate connections retailers trying to take their place,” said Gabe Fried, effort,” said Cory Baker, chief operating officer of cash has stayed strong. to generate earnings before range in 2016 and move applying the science of retail interest, taxes, deprecia- toward $1 billion in 2017,” with shoppers through Instagram, chief executive officer of Hilco Streambank. “The Marquee Brands. “It takes a lot longer and requires The firm’s free cash flow increased 117 percent sails with I to bring JCP up the curve tion and amortization of Fitch noted. Monica Aggar- Facebook and Twitter — engines of number of consumer brands available 10 years ago a lot of money.” to $75.4 million in the second quarter. Excluding accessible in pricing and markdown approximately $650 million wal is the rating agency’s brand awareness. was steady and increasing.” Just how a buyer plans to use a brand can deter- tax items, it still increased 40 percent over the optimization, supply chain, in 2015, which adds back primary analyst for Penney’s. But while recognition is easy to talk about, it’s That isn’t the case now. Many retailers are going mine how much they’re willing to pay. prior year — proof that even a troubled company luxury.” leveraging IT, and reducing approximately $40 million That’s a big turn in senti- expensive to build and, for a growing number of belly-up as shoppers gravitate toward e-commerce, “From time to time we all look at deals and can generate lots of cash with this buy-don’t-build corporate redundancies.” in noncash stock-based ment for a company on the Daniel Lalonde, SMCP That bullish take followed compensation, versus brink not so long ago. investors and operators, more attractive to buy. which according to the Commerce Department saw scratch our heads,” Baker said. “Some look Carlos Monteiro by illustration Stock Antonov; Pasha by photograph Lalonde model. ■

36 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Illustration by MATTHEW BILLINGTON WWD.COM SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 37 Agenda EDITED BY JEAN E. PALMIERI AND ALEX BADIA

Parke & Ronen’s polyester trunks.

Sundek’s polyester Original trunks. Orlebar Penguin’s Brown’s polyester polyester trunks. trunks.

Boss’ polyamide Thorsun’s Vilebrequin’s and elastane polyester polyester Swimming trunks. trunks. trunks. Optional A plethora of new independent swim brands is inundating the market with energetic graphic prints and colors, elevating the style quotient in and out of the water. Tom & Teddy’s Robinson polyester les Bains’ By ALEX BADIA Photographs by RENIE SALIBA trunks. Saturdays polyester Model: DIEGO MIGUEL at Wilhelmina Surf NYC’s trunks. Grooming by NOAH HATTON at Artist Representative nylon and Fashion Assistant: LUIS CAMPUZANO spandex Location: THE STANDARD, EAST VILLAGE trunks. Jewelry throughout: MICHAEL KORS watch; CARTIER cuff; GEORGE FROST bracelets and rings; DVF necklace.

38 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 39 Everest Isles Hartford FOUNDERS/DESIGNERS: FOUNDER/DESIGNER: Greg and Jeff Hladky Yves Chareton YEAR FOUNDED: 2012 YEAR FOUNDED: 1979 HEADQUARTERS: HEADQUARTERS: Paris Riding Wallingford, Conn. KEY RETAIL ACCOUNTS: KEY RETAIL ACCOUNTS: Mr Porter, Mr Porter, Barneys, Scoop, Stanley Korshak, Braun Hamburg, Club Monaco Malliouhana Hotel and Spa, Four RETAIL PRICE POINTS: The Wave Seasons Hualalai $160 to $220 RETAIL PRICE POINTS: CLAIM TO FAME: Chareton based ¬ Swimwear is a popular and growing $210 to $245 his swimwear brand on the CLAIM TO FAME: The brand’s signature laid-back lifestyle in Biarritz, category, with overall sales rising piece is The Draupner, a swim trunk/ France, which is the birthplace 3.3 percent to $2.6 billion in 2014, boardshort hybrid. Focusing on the of European surfing in the early high end with a collection of technical Sixties. Swim trunks are made according to the Sports & Fitness luxury pieces, Everest Isles uses from soft, quick-dry, European Industry Association. While the big fabrics from Switzerland’s Schoeller fabric and feature triple-needle Textiles, Italy’s Aqua Zips and the stitching for durability, cotton Thorsun CLAIM TO FAME: Prints, all brands continue to hold the lion’s share of which are original, U.K.’s Marlow, which is also used for mesh liners for comfort, and the FOUNDER/DESIGNER: professional yacht racers. brand’s famous yellow boat float of the market, independent labels are George Sotelo dominate the collection for this season and key chain that’s attached to the YEAR FOUNDED: 2014 becoming more popular with the fashion next and are based on belt loop of each trunk. Its best- HEADQUARTERS: selling style, the solid, quick-dry customer. Here, a few of the brands — New York City Sotelo’s Mesoamerican revival patterns. The fit linen trunks, were originally KEY RETAIL ACCOUNTS: Onia some new, and some not so new — that of the short is designed made as a special order for Barneys New York, FOUNDERS/DESIGNERS: are stirring up the surf. to be practical, with deep Italian style figure Gianni Agnelli, Bergdorf Goodman, The Carl Cunow and Nathan Romano the former head of Fiat. Webster, Mohawk General pockets and internal By ARIA HUGHES and JEAN E. PALMIERI YEAR FOUNDED: 2009 security pockets that allow SWIMWEAR Store, Scoop HEADQUARTERS: New York the wearer to carry cash RETAIL PRICE POINTS: $275 KEY RETAIL ACCOUNTS: Barneys, Saks Fifth and credit cards without Avenue, Mr Porter, Lane Crawford added bulk. Model Garrett Neff RETAIL PRICE POINTS: $120 to $225 CLAIM TO FAME: The brand’s signature is the Calder 7.5-inch short, a tailored chino Takes The Plunge model that functions as a swim trunk. Garrett Neff rose to fame as a Calvin Klein The Charles 7-inch short is a take on a Frescobol Carioca traditional swim trunk with a full elastic underwear model, and for spring, he’s FOUNDERS/DESIGNERS: Harry Brantly waistband. Shorts feature superfine mesh launching his own swimwear line, Katama. The and Max Leese lining and antique nickel hardware. For its YEAR FOUNDED: 2009 patterns, Onia partners with print houses name comes from a town in Martha’s Vineyard HEADQUARTERS: London including Liberty Art and Ratti, and the KEY RETAIL ACCOUNTS: Mr Porter, brand recently received permission from where Neff spent a lot of his childhood and was Matchesfashion.com, Colette, NASA to use its prints. the inspiration for the high-end collection. Selfridges, Harrods, Galleries Lafayette, Luisa Via Roma, The Shop — JEAN E. PALMIERI at Bluebird RETAIL PRICE POINTS: T-shirts start How long have you been my uncles and my dad at $85 and a handcrafted wooden Sundek modeling? were wearing. There are surfboard is $2,084. Parke & Ronen FOUNDER/DESIGNER: Tommaso In 2005, I had one more some photorealism prints CLAIM TO FAME: The brand channels the FOUNDERS/DESIGNERS: Parke Andorlini year of college left and from photos I’ve taken on Rio de Janeiro lifestyle with its line of Lutter and Ronen Jehezkel YEAR FOUNDED: 1958 I was taking a summer Martha’s Vineyard, a cedar colorful beachwear and accessories YEAR FOUNDED: 1997 HEADQUARTERS: Florence class in Barbados. I got shake, which is a typical Above, inset: that sport exclusive prints inspired by HEADQUARTERS: New York KEY RETAIL ACCOUNTS: Barneys, discovered in the airport siding for houses in the Garrett Neff Brazilian sidewalks. Its tailored swim KEY RETAIL ACCOUNTS: Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s, on my way back and Northeast, a red barn print was inspired shorts were developed with a Savile Barneys, Bloomingdale’s Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom started modeling at the that comes from a photo by the Row tailor for the proper fit and are RETAIL PRICE POINTS: Swimsuits RETAIL PRICE POINTS: beginning of my senior I took of a barn that has seashore; made of a quick-drying material in from $125 to $160 $79 to $120 year at Bucknell. In the been in our family since below, a look Lake Como, Italy. CLAIM TO FAME: Fit, prints and CLAIM TO FAME: The rainbow on the from the color are what separates it beginning of the year it the Civil War. And then I tin- back of Sundek’s boardshorts collection. from the pack. Its key pieces in wasn’t much of an issue, kered around with things I has been a trademark for the swim include the 5-inch Lido, the but by the end of the year, thought are typically seen brand since it launched. Originally 6-inch Catalonia, the Meridian Karl Lagerfeld was in touch as preppy elements, like started in California, the line, Bikini, Corcovado Brief and Ibiza with my agents so I was the embroideries, and Nordstrom the brand. It doesn’t offer which is rooted in surf culture, Orlebar Brown Square Cut. In addition to swim, flying to Paris in the middle instead of going traditional FOUNDER/DESIGNER: RETAIL PRICE POINTS: elastic waistbands, opting is now designed in Florence. the brand offers shirts, pants, of finals. It got a little crazy, with a seahorse or ponies, Adam Brown $240 to $345 instead for a tailored fit Technical innovation is another shorts, sportswear, footwear but I finished college and I added some more mas- YEAR FOUNDED: 2007 CLAIM TO FAME: The side with up to six components brand signature and for the and accessories and it has its then started modeling. culine, Navy Seal-inspired HEADQUARTERS: London fasteners in a compound that can be adjusted. The fall 2016 collection Sundek will own stores in New York and Los embroideries instead. So KEY RETAIL ACCOUNTS: metal named Zamak, brand’s Bulldog model introduce a board short with a Angeles. Did your experience in we have a Navy Seal mask Barneys, Bergdorf which doesn’t heat features two side-angle water-resistant pocket made for fashion help you when and Navy Seal-issue fins Goodman, Neiman up in the sun, are one front pockets and one zip smartphones. you decided to launch because my uncle John Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, distinguishing feature of back pocket. Katama? was a Navy Seal. I didn’t know much about Dan Ward fashion when I got into How do you stay in swim- FOUNDER/DESIGNER: it. I was at the end of the suit-ready shape? CLAIM TO FAME: Made from Dan Ward process. I’d be on a shoot, I like to run a lot. I play Charlie by Italian fabrics and sewn in HEADQUARTERS: Switzerland there would be a rack of tennis and I like doing Matthew Zink Sri Lanka, this collection YEAR FOUNDED: 2012 clothes, but I had almost outdoorsy stuff — fishing, FOUNDER/DESIGNER: has a vintage aesthetic KEY RETAIL ACCOUNTS: Saks Fifth no idea how they got there. canoeing. It’s great to get Matthew Zink with its Seventies-inspired Avenue, The Webster, Atrium, But over the years, I’ve out of the city to do these YEAR FOUNDED: 2010 lifeguard brief and Hudson’s Bay Co. asked questions, I would things. HEADQUARTERS: New York midthigh soccer shorts. RETAIL PRICE POINTS: watch the designers and KEY RETAIL ACCOUNTS: Details including internal $125 to $265 see how they describe Do you have a favorite Sold exclusively on the drawstrings, gold waist CLAIM TO FAME: Ward designs and their new collection and beach? company’s Web site. buttons and a cheeky logo produces all of his pieces in Italy. what their inspiration was. I really like South Beach RETAIL PRICE POINTS: placement have gained He’s known for his prints and on Martha’s Vineyard and $95 to $295 Zink, who cut his teeth at his tailored silhouettes. Ward What inspires you? Miami’s South Beach. I Tom Ford, Carolina Herrera held posts at Alfred Dunhill, A lot of it comes from wonder if there are any and Victoria’s Secret, a Calvin Klein and Hermès prior to my childhood and the other South Beaches; loyal base of #charliefans. Neff and presentation photograph by Sylvain Gaboury/PatrickMcMullan.com Sylvain by photograph and presentation Neff launching his swim brand. things my grandfathers, there must be.

40 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Illustrations by ULI KNÖRZER WWD.COM SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 41 This marks Gant’s first marketing push in nearly Briefs Gant will a decade, when the brand’s ads featured Robert F. focus on the Kennedy Jr. and his family in 2006. shirt for the The company is planning a significant outdoor Beauty Gant’s first phase Agenda of its U.S. campaign for the print images in New York, Lon- relaunch. don, Paris and Stockholm, as well as a short film that highlights a dry cleaner on the Yale campus FASHION WEEK in New Haven who has seen everyone from future Pyer Moss’ Next presidents to Nobel Prize winners pass through Conversation his doors. Opener While Gant offers a full line of apparel, the initial push will be for its signature shirts, Nilsson said. OKerby Jean-Raymond “We believe we need to own one category in the has been working in fash- Chapter ion since he was 16 years marketplace and we picked shirts, which was a The American heritage old. Now 28, the designer and restraint. $2.9 billion business in the U.S. last year.” of Pyer Moss is preparing “There are still a lot of label is embarking on The company has been credited with creating to show his men’s and Old World perceptions of a major rebranding. the “locker loop” on the back of the shirt so women’s spring collec- black men and women in students could hang their shirts in their lockers tions together during New America,” he said. By JEAN E. PALMIERI at school, as well as the back-collar button that York Fashion Week. The show during New York Fashion Week will RETAIL keeps both the collar and necktie in place. Thanks But it’ll be more than just a conventional include a special video to innovations such as these, Nilsson said, in its “I’m invested in spaces show. Jean-Raymond and performance that he ant wants to be loved again in its heyday “Gant was the biggest and best shirtmaker has teamed with artist promises will include “a lot as much as I’m invested home country. in America. But when it was sold to Sara Lee, they Gregory Siff to open up of firsts,” he said, without The company, which was founded took it down-market.” a dialogue about race providing further details. in product. Building an in 1949 in New Haven, Conn., by Many ownership changes — including Phil- relations through the “We want people to leave Bernard Gantmacher and his wife, lips-Van Heusen and a stint on the Stockholm Stock looks in the collection. The the show and open a con- experience is as important Ghas over the last decade or so been more popular Exchange — and constant discounting at retail took spring line is inspired by versation,” he said. “I don’t think people in fashion as building product because overseas than it has been in the U.S. It’s even no its toll on the American market. “The U.S. is a very Ota Benga, a Congolese pygmy man who was understand their power. longer truly American, being controlled by the small portion of our business today,” Nilsson said. exhibited in the Bronx We should be speaking experiences stay in the family-owned Swiss company Maus Frères — which “But we believe it can be 10 times the size it is now Zoo’s Monkey House in about things that can memory bank.” also owns Lacoste and Aigle — since 2008. without bastardizing the brand.” 1906, and features pieces potentially change the The brand today has nearly no presence in Nilsson’s strategy is to retrench before growing. that reference captivity world.” — JEAN E. PALMIERI Ronnie Fieg on his redesigned Kith store in Brooklyn. the U.S. But if new president and chief executive The company closed its Fifth Avenue flagship officer Patrik Nilsson has his way, that’s about to and reduced the size of its collections by 60 per- change. cent. In addition, the company brought a new In an exclusive interview with WWD at Gant’s management team on board. This includes the COLLECTION LAUNCH recently opened U.S. headquarters at 100 Wall appointment of a new creative director, Chris- Flashback Street, Nilsson, who spent 23 years at Adidas topher Bastin, as well as a new North American OClosed, the Germany-based contemporary brand, is before joining Gant AB in April 2014, laid out his president, Justin Cupp, who joined in December. looking to its past for Archive ’85, a men’s collection that plans to take back the American market. Additionally, Caroline Roth was installed as global consists of reproduced pieces from the Eighties. Denim “We say that Gant was born in the U.S. and marketing director. along with graphic T-shirts and sweatshirts will be in the raised in Europe,” Nilsson said. “It’s American “We look at this as our opportunity to make the offering, which hits stores the end of September and will sportswear but with European sophistication.” company stronger,” Nilsson said. He cited his for- retail from $84 to $288. Closed, which launched in 1978, is sold at retailers including Ron Herman and Scoop. The brand has a presence in 70 countries with mer employer, Adidas, which he said “took $100 552 stores and 4,000 points of sales. Its net sales million out of the business before it could grow.” in 2014 were $1 billion, Nilsson said. Nilsson said while Gant produces men’s, wom- While its market share in Europe is solid, it’s en’s and children’s apparel, accessories and the U.S. where Nilsson and his team see the real footwear, “in the last six years, we haven’t owned opportunity. “The U.S. hasn’t heard from us in 10 any categories. We only own five out of the 70 years,” he said. “We have a six-year plan with two- markets where we operate.” Men’s wear rep- consumer. “The purpose of Gant Diamond G. year increments. We’re relaunching the brand and resents 70 percent of the volume globally and is to bridge the gap between Gant Originals believe we can be a leading lifestyle label by 2020.” 85 percent of the business in the U.S. and Gant Rugger,” said Bastin. The first step in that process will come Thurs- So in addition to the initial push to grab The rebranding also includes a new logo day when Gant launches a nationwide advertising a larger share of the shirt market, Nilsson’s that is based on the original from 1949. campaign. The campaign is centered around the game plan includes dividing the company The company is readying a new store slogan “They Changed the World, Not the Shirt” into three subbrands under the moniker concept that will highlight the initiatives. and features five individuals from a range of back- House of Gant. This encompasses Gant While Gant has struggled to regain grounds that the company deemed world-chang- Originals, Gant Rugger and a new addi- its footing in the U.S., Nilsson said the ers in their fields. These include Pulitzer Prize-win- tion, Gant Diamond G., a label that hear- brand’s global business has picked up ning poet Tracy K. Smith, abstract artist Natvar kens back to the diamond-shaped logo that lately. “Business had been flat since the Bhavsar and ethno-botanist Mark Plotkin. The one appeared on every shirt that was made in company went private in 2008,” he said, thing they have in common is that they’re all Ivy the original factory in New Haven. “but in the last year, we’ve experienced League college graduates. Gant will introduce Diamond G. and the pretty strong growth. This year we’re up spring collections of the other two subbrands 10 percent.” at an event at Spring Studios in New York on The brand is equally split between wholesale Sept. 10 during New York Fashion Week. In addi- and retail globally and 14 percent of its business tion to outdoor ads around town, the brand will comes from e-commerce, a category he also hopes be featured on Taxi TV during the week. to grow. Nilsson said Gant’s stores have enjoyed an Diamond G. marks the first significant product 8 percent same-store sales gain this year and a 15 introduction since the Gant Rugger launch in 2010. percent increase in overall sales. Wholesale sales Gant Rugger draws on the brand’s Ivy League are up 3 percent. heritage with a more edgy take on preppy classics. In the U.S., Gant operates seven Rugger stores, Michael Bastian had designed the collection for four Gant units and one outlet. And while the com- nine seasons, but the association ended with the pany will one day reopen a flagship in New York, Clockwise: Caroline fall 2014 collection. that’s not going to happen immediately. Roth, Christopher Bastin Diamond G. is targeted to the professional trav- and Patrick Nilsson; “We look at the U.S. market as an upstart,” eler and urbanite, the company said, while Gant one of the new ads, the Nilsson said. “We may need to retract to grow, but

Executive portrait by George Chinsee George by portrait Executive Originals is focused more on the sports-minded signature shirt. it’s still the land of opportunity.” ■

42 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 43 44 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 tournament onAug. 25. Hilfiger’s tennis celebrity Rafael Nadal atTommy

WWD.COM EDITED BY TAYLOR HARRIS AND ERIK MAZA

TYRH

TYRH Photographs by Steve Eichner; Brinkley, Murray and Springsteen by Scott Roth/Invision/AP out thesummerby hitting theballandhorsingaround. With LaborDay around thecorner, someNew Yorkers closed LifeThe Sporting Christie Brinkley Nat Wolff Lake BellandJaneLynch Kulkov andChanelIman. Akin Akman, NoahMills, Hannah Davis, Arthur Bill Murray and BruceWillis Ariana Rockefeller and Georgina Bloomberg Tommy Hilfiger Mary-Kate Olsen 25 &28 be alow-key affair, butthenSir Blue Parrot. Itwas supposedto Kasbah” atanafter atthe party toasted theirnew film “Rock the night, BruceWillisandBillMurray In East Hampton onthesame attraction over theweekend. been stepping up.” said. “But sofar, everyone has tions are alittlelower,” Bloomberg up-and-coming string soexpecta- best horse —butIcamewithan top horse —usuallyIbringmy behind theTopping Rose House. a dinnerFridaynightinthebarn horse show, Rockefeller threw grounds, andto markthefamed competing ontheBridgehampton were just someof theriders efeller andGeorgina Bloomberg Hampton Classic. major shindigto dress upfor: the Day weekend, there was onelast AUG AUG Horses weren’t theonly year“This Ididn’t bringa Mary-Kate Olsen, ArianaRock- But just before Labor social sceneouteast. to aclose, andwithitthe The summerisdrawing and ERIKMAZA optimistic. —LEIGHNORDSTROM sounding uncharacteristically season,” saidthetennis great, better thanIdidtherest of the very hard andIfeel like I’m playing can get. These days, he’ll take whathe disappointing season, hewon. in aniceturnof events after his campaign for Tommy Hilfiger. And game to launchhisadvertising Constance Jablonskiinatennis against modelsNoahMillsand 25, Rafael Nadalfaced off at FlushingMeadows. OnAug. U.S. OpenthatbeganMonday for tennis, lookingaheadto the leisure activity, others opted around astheirend-of-summer in 30years.” said. “I haven’t beenthisrelaxed out east? “It’s beenrelaxing,” he has Murray madeof hissummer up. Not solow-key anymore. What kley andoneBillClinton allturned Bruce Springsteen, Christie Brin- Paul McCartney, JonBonJovi, “I’m feeling well. I’m working While somechosehorsing WWD.COM Bruce Springsteen and Peggy Siegal SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1

45 Arts & Culture BY LORNA KOSKI Report Card for 20 years. large pink house which was said to Her West Village apartment is dec- have belonged to James Thurber, orated with Italian modern furniture and which was filled with his car- and has startling wraparound views toons. He became Marchetto’s hero. It’s Not Right, but It’s OK that include the Empire State and She found that she loved his work in Chrysler buildings. “It’s the iconic The New Yorker and his memoir “My The MTV Video Music Awards served a lot of looks, as usual. Some of it was acceptable — a lot of it was not. skyline throughout the entire book,” World and Welcome to It.” She had she says of “Ann Tenna.” For this already begun drawing the stylish, Hair channels interview, she wears a vivid blue look stylized young women who would DOne of his D DHis attempt at DShe wears the a pre-school art in keeping with the colorful, Space- come to characterize her cartoons; defining features is a grunge haircut Cleopatra look well. his ever-changing project but the actually looks more But so did Kylie Age book. now she realized, she says, that they hairstyle. Whether makeup is pretty. like something K.D. Jenner. “Ann Tenna has an accident that “actually could talk.” due to a movie role Girl’s got a twinkle Lang would wear in threatens her entire life,” Marchetto Marchetto studied fashion design or not, he’s begging in her eye and we the early Nineties. says. “She redirects her path and at Pratt Institute and went into ad- for a Revlon want the name of DThis dress feels DThe leather jacket goes up to meet Super Ann, who is vertising. She became a senior vice whoever did her familiar — a variation ad campaign is too squeaky who she should be. ‘Ann Tenna’ is president at Young and Rubicam, but teeth. of every sheer, contract. clean. He needs really a metaphor for the world of found she liked her métier less and curve-exposing Naked DThe cropped D something more gown that’s been a gossip and fashion, that universe. less each year. exhibitionism was leather jacket worn and that red-carpet staple “I definitely think it hinders our “Every New Year’s Eve I made a list predictable, but she paired with the doesn’t contrast all year. We want communication that, when you’re of things I wanted to do,” she says. “In looks surprisingly elongated polka so heavily with the more shock value talking to somebody and all you want 1991, instead of writing it, I lit candles chic and almost dot shirt and skinny ripped jeans. from her. Throw us a to do is look at your stupid phone,” and called on a higher power. I lit my jeans is the perfect comfortable. The DThe brown suede curveball, Nicki. she says. “My mission statement hair on fire.” silver bondage top look for the fashion booties are the only is: instead of turning on, tune up. She also made a change. In 1993, perfectly frames rocker that he is. positive thing about Everybody has their own antenna she launched her cartoon “SHE” her bust and makes this poorly executed and what you connect to is in Mirabella. This series became a her B cups look ensemble. (We hope perky. The loincloth totally up to you.” runaway favorite among readers, this doesn’t make looks like a small Marchetto has had a link with style and led to her first graphic novel, him cry.) and fashion since before she was “Just Who the Hell Is SHE, Anyway?”, chandelier. born. “My mom was a shoe designer,” published in 1994. DThe boots are Making a living as a cartoonist a little scrunched, proved to be difficult. “You have to but it looks like she “My mission be a street rat,” she says, noting that had a good range of some of her fellow cartoonists have motion. statement is: trust funds. instead of turning on, tune up. ” — Marisa Acocella B+ B- C C Marchetto Jared Leto Miley Cyrus Justin Bieber Nicki Minaj

DThis blowout DTo try to re-create DHair slicked and DWe’re happy to 15/FilmMagic; All others by Rob Latour/REX Shutterstock Latour/REX Rob by 15/FilmMagic; All others has great body a denim-on-denim parted to the side see that Mr. West but a sleek center moment is not a with an aggressive is joining his wife in part would’ve good idea. Let’s be cat eye feels like wearing maternity complemented the honest, no one can a nod to her “Bad clothes, maybe Marisa Acocella minimal vibe. do it better than Blood” beauty look, as a result of his Marchetto, and the cover Justin Timberlake’s sympathy weight DWhen all of your which is fine. and images from her book, perfectly tacky gain. peers are playing DA bare torso “Ann Tenna: A Novel.” outfit from 2001, so an unofficial is practically DMonochrome full don’t try. game of strip virginal looks work well on poker, opting DThe cropped by VMA the runway, but in for something workwear jacket standards. real life, they feel full coverage is has the right She broke affected. flat-out daring, even contrast between Gossip Girl out of her DIf he wants to be subversive. distress and eveningwear safety taken seriously as she recalls. “She worked for Delman She also became a writer, and embellishment to DThe dress shows zone with this a trendsetter, he After ‘Cancer Vixen,’ and I. Miller. She was pregnant with at one point, decided to do a story off her shape and make it a fashion sequined ath-leisure should know that me, and she answered the phone at on the noted restaurateur Silvano leaves everything piece. But the pants look, but the ombré ath-leisure is on work one day, and someone asked, Marchetto, who owns Da Silvano in to the imagination. are too tight and houndstooth is kind the way out. And ‘Can I speak with the designer? I’m the West Village, for Tina Brown’s Well, almost the red laces in the of garish. Not in a before he hits Marisa Acocella boots make it clear Jackie Kennedy, and I’m about to short-lived Talk. When the story was everything — her good way. the presidential that he cares too become First Lady.’ My mother said, unexpectedly killed, she informed nipples always DThe funky pump campaign much about what ‘Go on,’ but it turned out to be her. him of this and offered to make him seem to show matches her outfit, trail, he Marchetto returns he wears. She said, ‘I want to order some shoes some business cards to make up through. but that doesn’t should definitely to go with my Oleg Cassini suits.’ The for it. She did, and he kept calling make it right. let go of oversize with ‘Ann Tenna.’ two of them bonded over the fact her to request changes; she didn’t sweatpants. that both of them wore size 11 shoes.” immediately realize that the calls had “She also hired Andy Warhol to nothing to do with her designs. Marisa Acocella Marchetto is a turned the dramatic contrasts of a graphic novel about the gossip draw shoes for her,” Marchetto adds, They began dating and eventually cartoonist and writer whose work her own life (a breast cancer diag- columnist of the title, who runs a speaking of her mother. “He was very married, turning her into Mrs. Da takes a satirical look at the lives nosis just before her wedding) into Web site called Eyemauler. The book quiet and didn’t talk.” Silvano. of the stylish and privileged. Her comic gold in 2006. HBO Films later is a satire of the excesses of social The cartoonist and writer’s father The cartoonist continues to be cartoons have been published in optioned “Cancer Vixen” for a film to media and “connectedness” in our owned a pharmacy, and the family cancer-free, and, on Sept. 8, will ap- A- C+ C- D The New Yorker, Glamour and O, feature Cate Blanchett. day. “We are all over-mediacated usually spent summers at the Jersey pear in Pen’s DIY fall event at the Ace The Oprah Magazine. Her graphic Now Marchetto has created “Ann [sic],” she writes. It’s a story that shore. One summer, however, they Hotel. Its title: “How to Use Death as memoir, “Cancer Vixen: A True Story,” Tenna: A Novel,” (Alfred A. Knopf) Marchetto says she has had in mind went to Bermuda and stayed in a Your Life Coach.” ■ Selena Gomez Pharrell Williams Taylor Swift Kanye West Leto photograph by Kevork Djansezian/Getty Images; Williams and Swift by Jim Smeal/REX Shutterstock; West by Jeff Kravitz/MTV14 Jeff by West Jim Smeal/REX Shutterstock; Images; Williams and Swift by Djansezian/Getty Kevork by photograph Leto

46 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Photograph by GEORGE CHINSEE WWD.COM SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 47 3.1 + 10

TEN YEARS AGO, PARTNERS PHILLIP LIM

AND WEN ZHOU CHALLENGED RETAILERS

WITH A NEW CONCEPT OF STYLE AND PRICE.

NOW, 3.1 PHILLIP LIM IS ONE OF THE MOST BELOVED

BRANDS IN THE STORE.

BY JESSICA IREDALE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK MANN OUGHLY 10 To rattle off a few names: Tory Burch (2004), Alexander Wang (2005) and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, who estab- lished The Row in 2006 on their quest for the perfect T-shirt. Phillip Lim and Wen Zhou were also part of the crop, YEARS AGO, launching 3.1 Phillip Lim in 2005 when they were both 31, R hence the name. All of the aforementioned designers have charted very different courses, raising their profiles by escalating in price, adding new labels — sport, denim, etc. — to their portfolio, SOMETHING WAS partnering with luxury conglomerates, or mulling over an initial public offering. Lim and Zhou, on the other hand, have avoided most of those steps, all while expanding their business to an impressive degree: 14 freestanding stores glob- IN THE AIR IN ally and more than 450 wholesale accounts. The company doesn’t comment on annual volume, but the last reported figures were $60 million a few years ago and industry sources say that number is now significantly higher. Their steady FASHION, SPECIFICALLY AMERICAN course of cautious creativity has secured 3.1 Phillip Lim a premier position within the realm of advanced contempo- rary, where the average price is somewhere between $300 “WE ARE AN AESTHETIC, A BRAND.I and $700. FASHION. OR MAYBE IT WAS THAT By now, that market needs no explanation, but a decade ago it was a blank space that Lim helped pioneer: cool clothes of an elevated, directional taste that are attainable. In other words, affordable luxury. These days, retailers consider 3.1 I THINK WE ARE ANI SOMETHING WAS MISSING — THE Phillip Lim one of their most important collections, one with major growth potential. The collection headlines Bergdorf’s 5F, Barneys New York’s seventh floor and Saks Fifth Avenue’s contemporary space, but Lim and Zhou prefer not to be defined by department store semantics. AUTHENTIC PRICE VALUE.”I PROVERBIAL VOID THAT DESIGNERS “That’s just terminology,” says Zhou, sitting around a pastel lime-colored tufted leather sofa in her office at the company’s gleaming Hudson Street headquarters, a chic boutique fashion enclave that also houses PR Consulting, with WEN ZHOU FROM HERE TO ETERNITY INVOKE CR Fashion Book next door. “We are an aesthetic, a brand. I think we are an authentic price value. Price value isn’t even the right word. It’s a lifestyle that works for me and Phillip and works for the customers that we service.” WHEN THEY TALK ABOUT WHY THEY Lim and Wen are very much a “we,” professionally speak- ing. They started the business together with her money, earned from Aegis, the successful textile business she started at age 21 and still owns, if mainly for “sentimental reasons” STARTED THEIR LINE. BETWEEN at this point. It’s also in the same building as 3.1 Phillip Lim’s offices. Their retailers speak of Lim and Zhou’s impressive partnership. “When I think of both Phillip and Wen and their brand, the adjective that comes to mind repeatedly is ‘real,’” says 2004 AND 2006, A WINDOW OF Linda Fargo, senior vice president of fashion at Bergdorf Goodman. “They make real clothes for real people in a price zone which jives with a sane reality….There’s always been a very attractive balance between wearability and aesthetic OPPORTUNITY PRESENTED ITSELF, reach in Phillip’s clothes. He and Wen were forerunners in this space — the dynamic crossroad between democratic and trend-driven contemporary and the signature elevated qualities of the better designer business.” BASED ON SOME VARIATION ON THE Company profiles usually frame them as a pair, rather than singling Lim out as the designer and front man, but Zhou has racked up her own share of individual media accolades. An interview to reflect on their 10 years in business could not CONCEPT OF EVERYDAY LUXURY, be done without both of them. Lim and Zhou acknowledge that they’ve built a brand, though they realize that the word has been bastardized to some extent. “You can’t just come out of the gates and AND SEVERAL SAVVY, STYLISH you’re a brand,” Lim says. “There’s no experience. There’s no knowledge. There’s only an intuition. That’s not a brand. To me, a brand is like a person. You need to evolve.” In that sense, 3.1 Phillip Lim is autobiographical. It is Lim and Zhou, two first-generation Chinese-Americans — ENTREPRENEURIAL MINDS SEIZED one creative, one business-minded — who partnered for a by-their-bootstraps vision of hardworking, stylish aspiration. “It’s a creative pursuit that is put in a business box,” says Lim, describing the label’s ethos. IT TO BUILD WHAT ARE MEDIUM TO Without having a specific destination, they set out to make subtle creative clothes for busy professional women and men. “Look at this blouse,” says Lim, pointing to the filmy ivory style with pinked seams that Zhou is wearing. “Why is that MASSIVE BRANDS TODAY. being twisted? Why does it fit this way, why does it move ► WEN ZHOU AND PHILLIP LIM IN

50 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM THEIR HUDSON STREET STUDIO. lot more tourists, we were selling a lot more accessories, but meetings. “You want to know what your house is worth,” the business shifted. It had doubled over the last two years Zhou says. in the Mercer Street store, but I wasn’t getting the clients I “We’re not creating a company to sell it,” Lim says. “We’re needed, people who really understood the brand and were creating a company to ensure its success.” coming in to buy ready-to-wear. I felt the connection less Part of achieving success is overcoming challenges. Zhou “TO ME, A BRAND ISI and less.” and Lim are quick to list them, calling out the industry’s The Great Jones Street store is a beauty, 3,500 square feet system of oversaturation, shipping limbo and sales that are designed by Campaign that embodies the concept Lim and designed to cannibalize. Lim brings up a recent technology Zhou call “studio luxury.” Lim’s decorative gems include one- powwow he attended, where the tech folks were intent of-a kind midcentury furnishings, such as a 1938 prototype on merging with fashion. “They kept repeating, ‘How do LIKE A PERSON. YOU NEEDI chair designed specifically for sitting in front of the fire in a we commodify?’” he recalls. “I’m like, ‘You have to stop cabin. “People love coming in and we’re like, ‘Oh, that’s not speaking about fashion as a commodity. Tech is a commodity for sale,’” Lim says. because it’s scientific and engineered. But there’s one thing about fashion that’s so elusive that you’re not understanding W HAT IS FOR SALE IS MEN’S and women’s rtw and accesso- — and it’s desire.” TO EVOLVE.” I ries. For a moment, there was children’s wear, too, but “We Zhou points out that merchandise in the Great Jones had to kill it,” says Zhou, matter-of-factly. “We had to refocus Street store doesn’t go on sale. Instead, the location hosts on our core competency and it wasn’t there. You grow up a one-week or weekend friends-and-family event. When from your mistakes.” she initially proposed this idea to her team, it was met with PHILLIP LIM Rtw is the majority of the women’s business — 60 per- resistance. “We’re so used to doing business the normal cent — with accessories at 40 percent. The primary growth way that makes sense for businesspeople,” she says. “That’s area is footwear. Almost everything is produced in China, a why I’m either a really good businessperson or a really bad practice both Zhou and Lim preemptively defend. “When businessperson….Do you know how many times I went we first started, [manufacturing in China] had a negative into a retail store in the past — and I go into stores all the connotation about being mass-produced, but it’s so not time — and the first thing the salesperson greets me with is true,” Zhou says. “The Chinese factories and their work is so ‘There’s the sale rack.’ Let me enjoy your product. Let me exquisite and skilled.” Adds Lim, “It’s the oldest civilization take in your environment. Don’t direct me immediately to that makes clothes.” Both his mother and Zhou’s were seam- the price point. You have killed my desire and that’s not the stresses. Speaking the language and generational experience business I want to do.” in Chinese production has been a great advantage for them. And she has big plans. The brand has remained independent — everything grew “The brand is going to live beyond Phillip and me,” Zhou from Zhou’s initial $750,000 investment. Asked if they con- says. “We went from a trend — a line of clothes — to become sider selling or financial partnership, neither denies taking a brand today. It will be a house.” ■

that way when the wind blows? And at the end of the day, always with an undercurrent of clean femininity. He moves it’s all wrapped up in price point.” with the trends, but his staples are boyish tailoring (a lot of cropped pants recently) and outerwear contrasted with the E IS THE DREAMER of the two, the right brain to Zhou’s left. girlish whimsy of flowy fabrics, embroideries and a quirky H FW07 FW08 FW09 FW10 SS11 His personal Instagram account @therealphilliplim is full sense of color. The pastels of his Instagram and office furni- of photos of him cooking with friends, lying in bed with his ture convey the mood. dog and reading passages from books on mindfulness that Zhou is practical and tactical. She grasps numbers, as in are framed in pastel pink. Common hashtags are #bepresent, the percentage of their business that is currently wholesale, #31globalcitizens and #livethelifeyouwish. To celebrate the and that by October they will have 16 freestanding stores — anniversary, Lim is collaborating with artist Maya Lin, known e-commerce is also relaunching for the 10th anniversary. She for her large-scale, site-specific installations, on his spring begins her day with a goal and list. “There are three things on THE EVOLUTION OF 3.1 PHILLIP LIM show set, titled, “Stop and Smell the Flowers.” The message my list that I want to tackle today and that’s what I’m going is to slow down, appreciate the beauty of the present. to be focusing on,” she says. That’s not to say he blinds himself to business realities. Lim A clear business perspective doesn’t negate Zhou’s ability is very much interested in growth, ticking off the clinical steps to think creatively, even counterintuitively. For example, in to move forward: “Structure, experience, key hires and real 2007 the partners opened their first store in New York City on estate,” he says. “Business affords creative, but creative cre- Mercer Street between Prince and Spring Streets, which has ates businesses….It’s a really delicate thing to keep or lose.” since boomed into SoHo’s retail home-run alley with a cluster FW12 FW13 SS14 SS15 R16 Lim studied design in California, afterward working at of cool contemporary brands — among them Carven, Rag & the cool California contemporary line of the Aughts, Devel- Bone, Derek Lam 10 Crosby — as well as luxury labels such opment, which was a client of Aegis. That’s how he and as Marc Jacobs, Marni, Vera Wang and Balenciaga. “It was a Zhou met. great location, great timing and that store was so profitable,” He left Development over creative differences and Zhou says Zhou, who nevertheless overruled the numbers to close put her money behind him for 3.1 Phillip Lim, believing in the store in 2014 and reopen on Great Jones Street. That store, his aesthetic. He loves the discipline of design, whether in while charming, receives a fraction of the traffic of Mercer. art, fashion, cars or furniture, but it’s difficult for him to “SoHo became a giant outdoor mall, the client demo- articulate his point of view. “It has to be harmonious,” he graphic started to change,” Zhou explains. “It started to get a says. “I don’t know, maybe it’s a type of energy.” Over the course of his collections, there have been moments of the

ethereal, the tough, the grungy and the deconstructed, but Giannoni and Thomas Iannaccone Giovanni Chinsee, George John Aquino, by photographs Runway PHILLIP LIM, WHO IS MARKING HIS

52 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM LABEL’S 10TH ANNIVERSARY. SS08 SS08 WWD.COM SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 53 Au NATURALE

By RACHEL BROWN

Photographs by NYRA LANG With illustrations by ROSANNA WEBSTER

GREEN-BASED BEAUTY BRANDS ARE BOOMING AS CONSUMERS SEEK PRODUCTS BEFITTING THEIR INCREASINGLY HEALTH-CONSCIOUS LIFESTYLES. Angeles and Toronto] and CAP Beauty that are amazing and inspiring. They are featuring the brand as we think it should be, as a luxury experience as well as a healthy one.” Credo Beauty in San Francisco has been called the Sephora of natural beauty, not a stretch given that its chief executive officer and founder Shashi Batra, and vice president of merchandising and planning Annie Jackson have Sephora bullet points on their résumés. Similar to Bluemercury, Credo and New York’s CAP Beauty have treatment rooms inside their stores. Credo’s spa is by Tata Harper. In the Boston area and Washington, D.C., Fol- lain has been equated with Bluemercury due to its geographic proximity to where Bluemercury was established, although its tightly edited assortment makes it more akin to a Space NK for safe, U.S.-made beauty. These emerging retail concepts — additional stores are in their plans — aren’t separating natural beauty stylistically from its conventional counterparts. Credo intentionally located on Fillmore Street near Nars, Benefit, Le Labo, Kiehl’s and MAC to be in the mix with leading beauty retailers. “It’s a beautiful store with beautiful brands that also just happen to be natural,” Jackson says. Adds Batra, “We are at the point now where natural beauty is delivering conventional beauty aesthetics.” Tara Foley, founder of Follain, was thinking of a bathroom ONE LOVE ORGANICS S.W. BASICS: when she conceived the retailer’s store design; but not just any IS IN THE NOW IN THE bathroom. “I wanted people to recognize that these products CREDO BIG TIME. would look beautiful in their bathrooms,” she explains. “I wanted it to feel beautiful, luxurious and still rustic enough to be LINEUP. I a reminder that the stuff in the stores is oftentimes plant-based and from the earth.” n 2013, two years into building her organic skin-care brand — And now, large retailers from mass to prestige are diving into These stores and the brands within them speak less to hippie beauty. “What natural beauty has done is to deliver now on S.W. Basics of Brooklyn — via the Web and in specialty boutiques the segment, where they are confronting mounting competition or alternative lifestyles and more to healthy ones, opening the looking good as well as feeling good. It has efficacy, aesthetics, that carry natural-beauty products, Adina Grigore decided it was from retail upstarts combating the market’s crunchy reputation; natural-beauty segment to a broader and younger demographic. packaging, branding, scent, all that,” he says. Among the brands time to pursue bigger retail fish. The problem was, the bigger hungry investors are licking their chops at the growth prospects “A lot of people are seeking wellness,” says Cindy DiPrima, carried by Credo are Tata Harper, Vapour Beauty, Lily Lolo retail fish weren’t exactly biting. of natural brands, and the newest generation of consumers is cofounder of CAP Beauty. “They have gotten their diets and exer- Mineral Cosmetics, Kjaer Weis, Fig + Yarrow, One Love Organics, “I was getting told by buyer after buyer that natural is a trend embracing better-for-you beauty brands corresponding with cise regimes [clean], and natural beauty is the next progression. Marie Veronique Advanced, Kari Gran and W3ll People. that we think is ending. It was very much an uphill battle for me, their healthy lifestyles. Celebrities are riding the natural-beauty People are spending a lot of money on organic food and then The quality and performance of makeup products has and it was as if I was the only one that had this crazy idea that wave, too. Gwyneth Paltrow has linked with Juice Beauty; Jes- they are going into their bathrooms and putting on carcinogenic improved markedly, factors causing natural cosmetic sales to this was something worth pushing out to people,” she recalls. sica Alba is spearheading Honest Beauty, and Miranda Kerr is products. That doesn’t make sense. They are bringing their jump. At Credo, Jackson says color cosmetics are “exploding.” “I don’t blame those buyers because what they were saying to working with skin-care brand Kora Organics. beauty routines in step with the rest of their lives.” “What’s changed is labs are becoming more nimble, and they me is that, ‘When we add natural to our shelves, it doesn’t sell.’” According to research firm Kline & Co., natural personal care Opened in a 1,300-square-foot space on Fillmore Street in are finding ingredients that allow them to make [natural cosmet- Not yet a full 24 months later, the landscape for S.W. Basics remains a small slice of the overall beauty industry — products June, Batra declares Credo — which sells around 75 brands pri- ics] that are more like conventional makeup products, which and other natural-beauty brands has shifted dramatically. S.W. filled with synthetics command nearly 75 percent market marily priced from $15 to $150 across skin care, makeup, hair is what women really want,” she says. Jackson singled out the Basics landed at Target stores in March and is on track to tri- share — but it’s charging ahead rapidly. Global sales of natural care, men’s, and bath and body — is lifting off as conscientious natural-beauty brand W3ll People’s Expressionist Mascara as ple its sales this year. “When you get a call from Target, that’s personal-care products, which constitute about 25 percent of buying and transitioning to becoming more mainstream in meeting women’s expectations for conventional mascaras. Skin another level. You are like ‘Oh, wow, this is really happening,’” the market, climbed 10 percent last year, and Kline projects beauty. It can do so, continues Batra, because natural beauty care is Credo’s largest category, but she suggests color could Grigore says. “It was definitely a huge shock and not a specific sales in the segment will increase at a compound annual growth is both as beautiful and, critically, as effective, as conventional catch up or perhaps surpass skin care, especially in stores where plan. More like a dream come true.” rate of almost 10 percent through 2019. In contrast, research customers can test out the products. resource Research and Markets forecasts worldwide sales of Traditional beauty retailers have even given their stamp beauty products — natural or not — will advance at an average of approval to certain natural-beauty items. In August, W3ll rate of 4.5 percent annually, which is projected to amount to People’s Expressionist Mascara is hitting Sephora, and the $461 billion by 2018. EARTH brand’s full line will launch on target.com before rolling out The contemporary renaissance of the natural-beauty segment TU FACE: to Target stores the first quarter of next year. The mascara “is has historical antecedents. Brands like Dr. Bronner’s, which was CREATING A our number-one selling sku [stockkeeping unit] by leaps and founded in 1948; Dr. Hauschka Skin Care, which started in 1965 SUBBRAND. bounds,” says Shirley Pinkson, the makeup artist cofounder of and arrived in the U.S. seven years later; Burt’s Bees, a later W3ll People. Pinkson wouldn’t switch to natural mascara until vintage in the segment beginning in 1984; and the personal-care Expressionist Mascara. “I tried all the natural ones, and they consortium at natural food conglomerate The Hain Celestial of weren’t doing the job for me. It took me a long time to let go of Alba Botanica, Jason, Avalon Organics, Queen Helene and Zia my L’Oréal Voluminous,” she explains. “We all know if it doesn’t Natural Skincare became formidable by carving out shelf space work, women are not going to go there. Our mascara took us initially at Whole Foods, mom-and-pop green grocers and small, five years to formulate and create. It was super imperative that eco-oriented beauty shops, and then thrusting mainstream. we created a mascara that worked.” Origins, a prestige natural skin-care entrant from The Estée W3ll People and S.W. Basics are not the only natural-beauty Lauder Cos. Inc. that premiered in 1990, and The Body Shop, brands breaking into conventional retail. Once siloed in natu- the retail chain established in 1976 and later bought by L’Oréal, ral-food and beauty merchandisers, natural-beauty brands are took different routes but were buoyed by the same consumer being inserted into every nook and cranny of the retail universe. interest in naturals that propelled the Whole Foods set. While Premium plant-based skin-care brand Earth Tu Face is creating PRODUCTS that interest was deep in a class of concerned customers, it a subbrand for a large, mass-market retailer, a development FROM RMS was limited by a perception that natural-beauty products were Sarah Buscho proclaims would have never happened when BEAUTY. subpar versions of synthetic goods. she and Marina Storm unveiled Earth Tu Face in 2012. “Things Today, stores devoted to natural beauty are sprouting up are changing so fast that [it] is making the heads spin of some across the country communicating the message that natu- people in the beauty industry who weren’t prepared for the ral-beauty brands no longer are ineffectual. These stores aren’t change. They are trying to keep up desperately,” Buscho says. the granola sort. Instead, they’re being compared to conven- Movement toward natural at upscale specialty retailers and tional beauty retailers. “When we first started [in 2010], we department stores is slower, but is inching forward. Brands like could try to get into Space NK or bust,” says Suzanne LeRoux, natural and organic skin-care purveyor Tata Harper — which is founder of cosmetics company One Love Organics. “Now, it is also available at Nordstrom, Sephora, Neiman Marcus and Space not that way at all. All these stores are popping up like Credo NK — have demonstrated prestige natural-beauty products can [Beauty], Detox Market [a healthy food and beauty store in Los be lucrative outside of the natural retail niche. Tata Harper’s ►

56 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 57 FOLLAIN’S BATHROOM AESTHETIC.

first-quarter sales surged at select accounts. “It wasn’t necessar- to make money from it. Investors are circling natural-beauty ily one particular product [driving sales]. Everything sold more,” brands. The list of brands they are curious about is long, but says the brand’s namesake founder and co-ceo. contains W3ll People, One Love Organics, S.W. Basics, RMS Natural and organic makeup brand RMS Beauty recently Beauty, Coola, Indie Lee, Acure and Tata Harper, which has entered seven Bluemercury stores and will soon travel to the received a minority equity investment from private equity firm European department stores Le Bon Marché and Harrods, Alliance Consumer Growth. Swift reveals she’s fielding investor where it will be at Urban Retreat, but has yet to crack American calls “like crazy. You name it, big investors. Everybody wants department stores. “Europe is ahead of the market. Department in.” So far, she’s fended off suitors. Swift says, “If I was obsessed stores in America are scared,” reasons founder Rose-Marie Swift. with money, I would have sold a long time ago. I have integrity She believes whatever fear exists is bound to ebb. Within five and, honestly, we don’t need an investor. I’m very smart with years, she says, “Hopefully, I will be sitting in big department my money.” stores in equal respect to some of the big cosmetics brands.” S.W. Basics’ Grigore, who stresses her brand isn’t currently Department stores may have to up their natural-beauty game looking to get acquired, indicated partnerships can be compli- if they want to win over younger consumers. These consumers’ cated for a natural-beauty brand. “It’s going to have to feel really, acceptance of natural beauty is crucial to the segment’s momen- really right, not just for me, but for the brand, in order for me tum today and into the future. “The younger generation is defi- to be interested in it. Otherwise, it is as severe as becoming the nitely more convinced that you can get results without toxins. problem you are fighting in the first place,” she says. They are much more reverent of the power of nutritive natural Some caution that hype about the natural-beauty segment can ingredients. With the older generation, it takes a little more to get overheated. Discussing the spread of natural-beauty stores, convince them that you can positively get results without tox- Dara Kennedy, who inaugurated Ayla Beauty as an e-commerce ins,” says Hillary Peterson, founder and ceo of skin-care brand site in 2011 and introduced a physical location two years later, True Nature Botanicals. “I’m 53, and I’m in the heart of that says, “It reminds me a little bit of back in ’99, 2000. I worked group that grew up seeing the massive marketing campaigns that for a dot-com, and it feels like a very similar moment just in that [were linked with] the power of science. What we are working there are so many players. In a lot of people’s minds back then, on is helping people understand that science can leverage the they’re thinking, ‘Oh, there’s this alternative universe and all power of nature.” these players can prosper,’ which is never going to be the case. A proliferation of brands across the price spectrum has There’s going to be some weeding out.” allowed younger consumers without the wealth of their parents Even Grigore is cautious to temper expectations about S.W. to access natural beauty. “My strategy has been to offer good, Basics’ rise. “We are not a Burt’s Bee’s yet. We are still very much better and best,” outlines Tiana Ukleja, category manager for in the growth stages where we are finding our audience,” she health and beauty at the integrative pharmacy chain Pharmaca. says. “I don’t want to give you an impression that now every- “If you are new to natural, we want to have what I would deem thing is magically better.”■ good. These are the brands that you see in Whole Foods and local natural grocers, such as Burt’s Bees, Alba and Avalon. Then, there is a better selection where you would start to look at Weleda, Acure [Organics] and Andalou [Naturals]. They are a little bit higher [in price], but the ingredients are better. Then, for our customer who is ready for the next level and has income to afford the other brands, we offer what would be the best. These are brands that are being used by spa professionals in treatment rooms and include Jurlique.” Budding categories within the natural-beauty segment, notably aromatherapy and color cosmetics, show the influence of younger shoppers. Speaking about aromatherapy, Maren Giuliano, executive global Whole Body coordinator at Whole Foods, credits its growth to DIY, a mushrooming Millennial pas- time. She says, “A lot of people are making their own products and essential oils are a big part of that. And there’s been a lot more awareness around the connection between aromatherapy and being able to enhance moods. People are under a lot of stress, so we sell a ton of blends that are geared toward making you more relaxed.” Whole Body has expanded its aromatherapy areas at several Whole Foods stores, and has scheduled more in-store workshops and demonstrations dedicated to it. Likewise, Whole Body is W3LL Hair by TSUYOSHI HARADA bringing color cosmetics more to the fore. Giuliano says, “They PEOPLE IS Makeup by QUINN MURPHY at the Wall Group [customers] are looking for makeup that to them feels safer. LAUNCHING Nails by MISS POP using Zoya Naked Manicure They also appreciate the natural look.” IN SEPHORA. Model: SHAUGHNESSY BROWN at Next Model Management Where there’s growth, there are plenty of people angling

58 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 2015, No.1tk 00 Think Tank Denim’s Luxe Players: Dior Homme, Louis Vuitton, Tom Ford and Prada. By Lewis Alexander

refined branding across trimmings, or as Dior Denim over the past years has been a bit like Instagram in the refers to them, “accessories.” The most recog- nized is the CD ring on the waistband loop. eyes of luxury brands. At first, there was a resistance to doing Tom Ford Jeans have a distinct American feeling, it, then gradually, one by one, each embraced it. Denim is a with merchandising and marketing taking a more commercial route than European competitors. specialist product division, and the average ready-to-wear There are three fits proposed in five color washes. In addition, cords are offered in four colors and designer is not in a position to tackle it. can be found merchandised within the collections. Ford regards the jean as a wardrobe staple and a The global market for luxury denim is worth an key fixture in his own life. Yet Ford’s deeply rooted estimated $60 billion, and the category requires American approach is not just aesthetic: Produc- “denim geeks,” special factories and production tion takes place in U.S. denim factories although techniques. the denim originates from the best looms around So what are the key factors in successfully doing the world. The highest levels of production are luxury denim right? achieved via handset stitching by specialists, mean- Branding. Luxury jeans are regarded by regular ing that no two pairs are identical. The approach is high-spending clients as a wardrobe basic. To the synonymous with the Tom Ford brand — superlux- aspirational consumer, the average price of $450 ury, quality, discreet in the known branding — with means they are also considered an investment. a smattering of that Tom Ford sex appeal. Therefore, designers are having to balance dis- “Articles de Voyage Gaston-Louis Vuitton” cerning style with identifiable branding to cater to reads the wording on the brand’s jeans in both the differing demographics and geographic tastes. the Fifth Avenue, New York and Bond Street, Dior Homme, Tom Ford, Louis Vuitton and Prada London stores. The personal logo of Gaston-Louis have mastered this balance, cementing their places Vuitton, the grandson of Louis who took over the as the leading brands in this product category. house in 1936 and ran it until his death in 1970, Product development. The development of has been revived by the house. The singular Art denim is different from any other category. Work- Deco-inspired V originally used on leather travel ing with the fabric requires true artisanal skills, pieces such as the Steamer bag can now be found and the ability to realize that what started out as Brands that are getting as a discreet logo on the back pocket. a fabric unique to mining workers in the 1800s is Vuitton offers a slim or skinny-fit jean, some- now a fashion product for today. It’s about achiev- denim right regard jeans times fused with elastic, with colors correspond- ing the right fit, weight, dye — and comfort — and ing to those of the seasonal collections as well as calls for category-specific experience. as a key category as male continuity options in black, navy, gray and white. Production. The critical element is not to simply consumers globally are For differing seasonal climates, styles are also use the same fabric suppliers and factories brands presented in heavy or lightweight fabrics such as use for rtw or commercial collections, which could responding to the ever- cord or a linen and cotton mix. lack technical expertise. Denim-makers need to Prada’s take on denim is no-nonsense and is turn to specialists seasoned in the category. blurring lines between on- comprised of three fits: slim, casual or boot cut in Investment in human resources. Structured vintage, raw, selvage or new denim. They are pre- as its own entity as opposed to a bolt-on, the studio and off-duty wardrobes. sented in eight washes and again seasonal fabrics team is the key. Having the right talent and struc- are offered corresponding to seasonal climates. ture across design, development and production is what I call a ‘technical beauty.’ Brands that are getting denim right regard jeans the only way to really make the category successful. “I’ve changed the grammar and vocabulary of as a key category as male consumers globally are Larger brands are financially able to have perma- denim at Dior Homme,” Van Assche continued. responding to the ever-blurring lines between nent talent, and for smaller houses, freelance and “Of course, jeans remain an essential and a sig- on- and off-duty wardrobes. There’s a style and specialist consultants provide the solution. nature. But I’ve also used denim in my ongoing fit for everyone and for every occasion on offer in Kris Van Assche, Dior Homme’s creative direc- work on the codes of elegance. In my most recent the luxury market today. tor, believes denim is an essential fabric in a con- collections, denim became part of very sartorial “Denim has had a huge resurgence and now temporary man’s wardrobe. “It has transformed pieces. A denim waistcoat will change the allure permeates every aspect of the on- and off- itself from workwear to luxury goods, thanks to of a three-piece suit, the epitome of bourgeois. In duty wardrobe,” said Jeremy Langmead, brand renewed research on quality and the rediscovering a very techno-sartorial way — the main theme of director of Mr Porter. “The smart jeans and of the fabric itself through Japan. At Dior Homme, the Dior Homme winter 2015 collection — I used blazer combo has become to the creative indus- we actually use ‘Made in Japan’ denim. denim not only in details to underline, for exam- tries what the suit is to the financial one.” “Outsourcing it and supervising its quality are ple, a duffle coat, but also on strong pieces like a essential. We obtain the finest quality through suit. Tradition meets modernity. Hence a strong Lewis Alexander is the founder of Lewis Alexander artisanal methods, with special care on the dye- and contemporary allure.” International Executive Search, a global consulting ing and weaving. For example, the mechanized While Dior Homme presents a wide number of firm with offices in New York and London, specializing weaving looms used for Dior Homme produce styles, three are continuously offered, including in executive search, creative consultancy and human

only around 10 meters of denim per day. Hence the signature dark indigo shade, and all bear resources. lewisalexander.info Manzati Andrea by Illustration

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WWD.COM nonconformists. be beautiful, confident provedStockholmers to During fashionweek, many edgy andunderstandable. a distinctstyle that’s both best-dressed residentshave butthecity’sfashion capitals, inEurope’scounterparts STOCKHOLM FASHION WEEK

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SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1

63 REMEMBER Telling McQueen’s Story O“I’ve been interested in Alexander McQueen for some time,” says Andrew Wilson, the author of a new biography, “Alexander McQueen: Blood Beneath the Skin,” recently out from Scribner/Simon & Schuster. “But I haven’t written about fashion designers before. I’ve written about more literary figures, such as Sylvia Plath. So many people found him really fascinating on an emotional level. I wanted to find more out about why ordinary people found him fascinating. We’re all intrigued by him.

“I thought his public image was kind of quite her husband’s hands until four years before his extreme,” he continues. “I had the feeling that death. there was something much more interesting The cooperation of the McQueen family was behind that. I always have to have this kind of pivotal to Wilson’s approach. “First of all, they instinctive connection with my subject, some opened up about the family history,” he says. kind of nonrational, emotional connection to “They also had a great collection of press cut- the subject. I just wanted to find out more about tings. The boyfriends were incredibly open with him.” me, and so were a wide range of friends. I kept Wilson’s biography tells the story of the requesting to speak to [McQueen designer] Sarah designer from his birth into a working-class Burton, but she declined.” It took him about two- family with six children struggling to make ends and-a-half years to write the book. There wasn’t meet until his suicide at age 40 in 2010, when much written material, since McQueen was not a he was a design superstar who had been named letter-writer; his biographer simply interviewed a Commander of the British Empire and left an as many people as he could, about 100. estate valued at about $25 million. Wilson anatomizes another aspect of “Lee [the designer’s birth name] was very McQueen’s appeal in talking about the show close to his sister Janet, and he told her a few “Savage Beauty,” the museum exhibit that an honest book. I think some people perhaps dis- years before he died that he wanted a biography attracted huge crowds in New York and London pute it; they have their own reasons. Janet felt, I written of him,” Wilson adds. “He trusted her in 2011 and 2015, respectively. think, that it’s written in a sensitive manner. I’m to find the person, and she chose me. I’ve got a “Lots of people who would never go to see a not standing judgment on him in any way. I tried very empathetic approach to biography.” fashion exhibition saw it,” the writer says. “What to understand him.” Daphne Guinness, a great McQueen’s work and life had many dark ele- he does is somehow tap into the psyches of friend of McQueen’s, liked the book, as did Det- ments. “I didn’t want to go down the road of people. I think he said himself that he was show- mar Blow, Isabella Blow’s widower, Wilson says, hagiography,” Wilson continues, “but Lee could ing the dark aspects of people’s psyches. [He was adding, “I think it comes down to where you sit be difficult. The way he conducted his passion like] a writer of fairy stories, Gothic fairy stories in the fashion world, perhaps if your allegiances for drugs….It’s how you present it that’s the in which are hidden the dark aspects of human still lie with the company or associated compa- important thing, the tone and the voice. He had nature, the combination of sex and death.” nies outside.” issues of trust; in a way, he was sort of seeking Wilson disagrees with the accusation that has As for the subtitle of the book, “Blood Beneath some people to punish him. Issues such as guilt, often been leveled against McQueen, that he the Skin,” Wilson says, “I took it from a quote that anger and distrust stem from sexual abuse in was a misogynist. “That’s very unfortunate,” McQueen gave himself about going beneath the childhood.” the writer says. “He loved women. He wanted to surface of beauty, the contradiction between the McQueen was reportedly sexually abused as a empower them and make them feel wonderful surface and the hidden aspects of the psyche, the child, by Janet’s first husband, Terence Hulyer, and powerful.” hidden aspects of the self. The metaphor is that an alleged violent man who is said to have beaten As for the controversy created by the book, of McQueen’s creativity going beneath the skin of her so badly that she had two miscarriages. Her Wilson says, “Well, I think Lee was an incredibly our culture to investigate hidden aspects of the brother did not tell her about his own abuse at honest person, and I think he would have wanted self, hidden aspects of the culture.” — LORNA KOSKI

LONDON PIONEER Worsley-Taylor was a driving the early Eighties when the likes lections that she established recognized and valued in Paris force in establishing London of BodyMap, Katharine Hamnett, “almost single-handedly paved and Milan and she had a vision Annette Worsley- Fashion Week. After launching Betty Jackson and, later, Rifat the way for London Fashion of exactly what was needed here Taylor, 71 the New Wave exhibition at Özbek and John Galliano put the Week today.” in London. It was such a difficult London’s Ritz Hotel in 1974, in British capital back on the global Close friend and Mulberry time — the country was in reces- order to introduce young British fashion map as their shows founder Roger Saul noted Wors- sion, and when she started there designers to the international became must-sees for interna- ley-Taylor’s charismatic nature. was no government funding, market, she went on to found tional retailers. “Annette was a huge personality, sponsorship was unknown and London Designer Collections Designer Bruce Oldfield com- who demanded attention but had everything had to come out of a in 1975. After establishing the mented that when Worsley-Taylor a persuasive charm that masked very tiny budget she managed collections, the executive won started the New Wave exhibition, a very single-minded character,” to raise.” funding from the British govern- “the British Fashion Council — in She was “not the easiest of Shirley recollects Worsley- ment’s Department of Trade some form or other — existed people to get to know, but a heart Taylor using her powers of and Industry to support a newly then as a promoter of the ‘rag of gold underneath,” he added. persuasion to get the job done. formed British Fashion Council. trade.’ Annette didn’t want to see Liz Shirley, a former Elle UK “There was no one better at coax- After that, Worsley-Taylor young, exciting, forward-thinking fashion editor, Maire Claire ing great favors out of people OAnnette Worsley-Taylor, a established the London Designer designers bundled into a corner UK fashion director and Red than Annette. Always charming, former creative director of Show in 1990, which the BFC of the huge biannual trade fairs Magazine creative director, always honorable, she got the London Fashion Week who died called a “prototype” for London at [London exhibition space] recalled working with Worsley- best out of everyone she worked last week at the age of 71, was Fashion Week in its current form. Olympia. She saw that this talent Taylor during the early stages of with. She was so enthusiastic, praised by her peers as a pio- The tireless Worsley-Taylor needed to be showcased in a producing London Designer Col- she just wouldn’t give up what- neer who helped reignite interest was an integral part of the more sympathetic light,” noting lections, saying, “She was very ever the problem or hurdle she in British fashion. renaissance of London fashion in that the London Designer Col- aware of how designers were encountered.” — LORELEI MARFIL

WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2015 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 210, NO. 11. Wednesday, September 2, 2015. WWD (USPS 689-960, ISSN 0149-5380) is published weekly, with one additional issue in February, March, June, October, November and December, and two additional issues in April and August by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscrip- tion term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WWD, 475 5th Ave, 15th Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

64 SEPTEMBER 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM FINALE

Rosanna Webster in her London studio. Piecing It Together O London-based artist Rosanna Webster, 27, discovered digital collaging while studying illustration at England’s University of Brighton. “Something really clicked with me, just that you could take these images and reimagine them — give them new life. It’s almost like fitting together a jigsaw.” This issue’s cover (far left) is Webster’s first commissioned by a print publication. She rooted additional floral imagery in the background, highlighting the original photo. “It’s a very beautiful, fresh [photo by Nyra Lang] and I wanted to find something that complemented that feel.” — ELLEN THOMAS

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